GET UP TO SPEED Fast and
NAKED
Aprilia’s Tuono takes on its rivals
January 2017
MCM is FREE in dealers, clubs and biker cafés
Suzuki’s plans Riding the USA:
REVEALED
How YOU can do it
Guy’s honest answers: ‘I am DONE with the
TT
’ ● New Hayabusa coming soon ● No modern retro yet (but it’s on the way) ● Supercharged bike for less than £10k!
Who says this? Only the president of Suzuki himself!
Yamaha goes electric:
It’s only been a matter of weeks since BMW and KTM unveiled their 2017 ranges to the world, but we’re already bringing you the NEXT wave of new bikes from the factories and BOTH are targeting the road enduro market for 2017/18! More on page 3
▲
Here are its FIRST proddie bike plans
SPIED: BMW and KTM!
NEWS 3
Suzuki’s FUTURE plans revealed
by the big boss!
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Toshihiro Suzuki, president of the Japanese giant, has opened up about its future in a hugely important and revealing interview. In an interview with a french journalist, Suzuki didn't so much let slip, as openly reveal some key elements about what we're going to see from the manufacturer in the near – and not so near – future. One area of development that is currently under scrutiny is the lack of any modern-retro style motorcycle in the range. While all the other major Japanese manufacturers have at least pointed towards a modern-retro style bike in their range, Suzuki has yet to go down the route. President Suzuki was keen to point out, however, that there are changes in the pipeline: “We realise that this is what some of our customers want and it will be coming from us. I can’t tell you when it’ll be or what type of bike we are working on though."
Buell’s back (again)
Suzuki was also frank and forthright about the company’s plans for supercharged machines. Focusing on the Recursion prototype (pictured, top left) that was first shown three years ago – and last year's subsequent patent for the production version of the bike (also pictured) – in particular, he said this: “The project has not been abandoned and there has always been the plan to launch a supercharged motorcycle in our range. However, this is not for this coming year. One of the specifics we are looking at is exactly how much putting this sort of technology into production for the mass market will cost. For now, we have not defined anything specific about it."
The factory’s top man was pressed about the potential cost of a supercharged bike that made around 100bhp and would be running a medium-sized motor, and when it was suggested that such a motorcycle would cost around £9500 he replied with: “That is a view that is not completely fanciful." He also went on to outline exactly why Suzuki is going down the supercharger or turbocharger route, and it's far more exciting than anyone first thought. Suzuki added: “We do not think that fuel consumption is a major concern for motorcyclists. Nor do they want to lower displacement. Our idea of using a turbo is more about the pleasure that we seek on a
motorcycle. A motorcycle with a turbo is a pleasure motorcycle that we develop, not a two-wheeled utility motorcycle." Another bike that's come up for plenty of discussion is the Hayabusa. The acclaimed hyperbike is long overdue a new model and has started to fall behind ultra-quick competition like the H2R Kawasaki. But, fans of the big bike will be overjoyed at what Suzuki had to say on the matter: “The Hayabusa will have a descendant that will not go too far from the family. Our engineers are working on it right now. It will be along the familiar lines of the Hayabusa and it will have a lot of electronic assistance for riding fast."
SPIED: Mystery BMW GS snapped testing on the road
SPIED: KTM’s future 800 Enduro roadster caught out on test
So, what on earth do you think this thing is that’s been snapped testing on the road in Italy? Because it looks pretty much finished (and is out doing the miles on the road) we’re thinking that it’s nearing the end of whatever development schedule it’s been on so far. Regardless of the answer, this is a fresh, new bike and it’s been caught out and about. As for the details – and we’ve only a got a few so far – it is a twin, and according to insider information the bike is coming in both 800cc and 1000cc versions (so the 1000cc version will be a direct competitor in terms of road sales for Honda’s Africa Twin) and the styling is aimed much more at markets like the V-Strom than at the more seriously off-roady Adventure bike sector. The tank is a 24-litre version (again, according to insiders). This could well be the first picture of the newly updated F800GS that we will see released midway through next year.
This it the first picture of the upcoming 800cc Enduro bike from KTM. What is clear from the snap of the protoype is that the new 800 is going to have a much more serious level of off-road ability than anything in the very recent run of KTMs. The bike gets what looks like 43mm WP forks and plenty of ground clearance (although the mudguard is low and close to the tyre which will have to be raised for any sort of real off-roading), braking is taken care of with two-piston radial Brembo calipers and the rear shock is mounted off-centre. The bike also gets a smaller face with a bracket fitted to the top that looks as though it will carry a screen. The single headlight on the bike and the rear light small-cluster LEDs are clearly out of the factory’s parts bin. It’s unlikely that the finished article will look like this – especially given how every new KTM’s lights recently unveiled at EICMA in Milan were much more sharply styled and featured lines of LED lights.
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Editor Tony Carter Editorial design Fran Lovely Publisher Steve Rose Picture desk Paul Fincham, Jonathan Schofield Production editor Jack Harrison Divisional advertising manager Martin Freeman 01507 529538 Advertising Lee Buxton 01507 529453 Marketing manager Charlotte Park Publishing director Dan Savage Commercial director Nigel Hole Associate director Malcolm Wheeler Advertising deadline for February issue Thursday, January 5, 2017
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It’s full beam ahead for China’s bad drivers Numpties caught driving around with their car lights on full beam in China are being pulled over and then made to sit in front of a cop car with its lights on full whack... for a full minute. Along with a fine of around £30, the drivers have to sit directly in front of the car and stare at them for 60 seconds. Pictures of bad lads being forced to do this by the rozzers were put on the Shenzhen traffic cop’s official Weibo account. The caption accompanying the post said: “Tonight we are carrying out punishments using high beam.”
Blind Aussie’s attempt
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When Erik Buell from Erik Buell Racing (EBR) announced a couple of months ago that his company would be launching a new Black Lightning, there was much wringing of hands and awaiting of something a bit ground-breaking from the innovative bike builder. The reality of the situation (now we’ve seen what’s appeared, pictured above) has been less well received by EBR’s home USA market than he might have hoped for – and that’s because it’s effectively a revised, lowered 1190SX, rather than anything ‘new’. The Black Lightning uses the company’s 185bhp, 101.6lbft of torque, 1190cc V-twin, with revised gearing for more low-down oomph, lower footrests, higher bars and an optional comfort seat.
Independently proven pick up: 67,717 copies
Ben Felten, who is totally blind, is on track to break the record for the fastest motorcycle ever ridden blindfolded. Former GP racer Kevin Magee, above right, will act as Felten’s navigator at Speed Week held in May in Australia when he attempts the record of 164.87mph. Magee will ride behind Felten, who will be on board a Hayabusa, using a radio to direct Felten: “I basically tell him to go left or right with increasing levels of urgency,” said Magee.
GROUP TEST 11 ‘Now I’ll tell you something about blowing into your thumb by the side of the road...’
What you need to know:
● £13,999 ● Bosch ABS ● 189kg (dry) ● 125Nm ● 150bhp
More roomy than you might think, the 1290 doesn’t have to be too extreme and you really can enjoy sweeping country roads in style.
The KTM has a very light touch in the corners.
The KTM 1290 Super Duke R I find funny how time, even a relatively short span of the stuff, can be unkind to a bike. The 1290 Super Duke R is a bike that has suffered during its three years of existence. It’s also a bike that both wows and winds me up in equal measure; a real Jekyll-and-Hyde character and, thus, one which needs two stabs at testing. More of that in a mo. For now, though, one thing that really stands out about the KTM is that no matter how ‘nice’ it is to ride – and it really rather is – it can still come across as a bit clunky. The gearbox – for starters – is one such clunkster, needing a firm stamp or lift to engage another cog. Some may say it’s a man’s gearbox, other’s may claim it’s a tractor’s, but whichever direction the 1290 is taken in for the future it’s something that could do with a big dollop of sophistication. Alongside that, there’s an almost old-school way about the Duke in its control actions. When it was launched a few years back, while it wasn’t quite what we expected it to be, it was really rather exciting. And now, so long as you’re rolling on and off the throttle in a single gear, it remains as such. Then you hit the brakes. This Special Edition has petal discs added, and while overall power seems the same they produce a weird and mildly off-putting pulse at the lever that you’d initially swear was like the ABS kicking in. It isn’t, it’s just the pads on the discs, but in those instances where you do get the ABS to intrude it exacerbates that feeling. This means, occasionally, coming to a stop can feel a tad lurchy. That probably reads like a bigger deal than it actually is, but it’s a quirk worth mentioning. As is comfort, which is certainly one of the bike’s strong points. You sit up straighter than on any other bike on test, which only becomes a pain on long motorway stints. While there’s not a huge amount of weight going though the bars, the seating position is one of both security and control. The softly set suspension means that when you do want to boss it, which it laps up, just enough weight is pressed
onto the front tyre via the excellent WP fork to pull off some astounding cornering action. The only time it doesn’t help is on fast sweepers when it isn’t loaded up. The lack of weight through the bars means you’re relying on said superb suspension and the tyres to get you through, which they tend to do, but it’s not as comfortably managed or as settled as on the others. Yes, you could firm things up but then you’d diminish the exemplary bump-management skills which sees this so effective on lumpier stretches of Tarmac, and the plush overall ride. All things considered though, it does still handle remarkably well for such a lanky lass, and its uncanny wetweather road holding skill genuinely borders on the phenomenal. But now we get to the crux of the 1290’s problem, which is mostly down to the electronics. It’s this system that gives it a near bipolar nature. You’ve got this wonderfully grunty engine that gets seriously curbed by the traction control. In fact, it’s actually better to have the engine in a lower power mode with the traction on. In ‘Sport’, the traction control can curb things so much as to become truly irritating, as it struggles to contain the pent-up fury of the V-twin’s delivery. Switch to ‘Road’ and the system has slightly less to contend with, equalling a far smoother ride with less intrusion. This puts the stops on any fooling around though; it makes it lovely to ride in all conditions, but it’s still not the bike I want. No, the bike I’d want magically appears when you turn the traction control off. Deactivating this is akin to Jekyll gulping down his potion because moments later Mr Hyde is out and causing a serious mayhem. It’s almost unbelievable how much of a different bike it becomes – night and day, black and white, insert whatever polar opposites analogy you wish to throw at it, and it’ll stick, like superglue. This is the machine we all saw in the promotional footage. Now the engine is an absolute monster, it’ll rear up with just a whiff of the throttle
in first and second through hard acceleration, often third too, and off the clutch in fourth with a bit of a helping yank on the bars. But it’s the delicious violence in the lower gears that sets your heart racing. A minute ago you were essentially riding a big super-naked scooter; now you’re utilising all your riding skills to keep the blasted thing in check and constantly checking your mirrors for the authorities. Every corner entry and exit becomes a compulsive and dynamic experience – fly into a bend, hammer the brakes and load up the front, pitch it in, then fire it out with the front hopping off the surface and the bars gently
THE ENGINE
waggling from side to side. It’s epic fun! And despite the stupid amount of low-down power available, you just don’t need the traction control. The mechanical grip from the chassis and tyres are more than enough to handle the output. Only on, say, a track, on the very edge of the tyre and limit of adhesion would I want a smidge of backup against the ridiculous torque on tap.
Born from the hearty RC8’s motor, the 1290’s engine has been modified to be far more potent. Bore goes up from 105mm to 108mm, and stroke increases from 69mm to 71mm. Pistons use an F1 design, and though larger, are 47g lighter than the RC8’s. Cylinder heads are fitted with dual-ignition, utilising separate maps for both. The four valves per head activate via two overhead camshafts, with DLC coated finger-followers. Service intervals are near 10,000 miles and the lump weighs 6kg. The throttle is RBW.
But that’s the problem, there is no ‘smidge’ as it’s not adjustable in any sense. On most of the others you can have your cake and eat it, but with the KTM there’s no middle ground. You have to choose between taming pure fury, or potentially being utterly infuriated. These days, that’s a choice you shouldn’t have to make…
48
The diameter of the excellent WP front forks that are key to the R’s handling
45 The sort of mpg
figure you can get if you’re not tearing around on the brute
THE CHASSIS
The frame is typical KTM, and still the right colour. It’s a trellis chrome-molybdenum construction weighing less than 10kg. Every manufacturer wishes they had gurus like WP in their pockets, a big reason why KTMs all handle very well. Giant 48mm WP forks grace the front, and are fully adjustable though no preload is available. A WP rear shock sits under the seat, and is excellent. Brakes are Brembo M50 top-notch calipers biting petal discs, allied to ˇ can. Bosch ABS. The single-sided swinger looks ace with the Akrapovic
14 GROUP TEST What you need to know:
● £11,390 ● Semi-active suspension ● Heated grips! ● 207kg (kerb) ● 148bhp
The BMW S 1000 R Sport
It was a relief that our Bavarian chums decided to include this bike, the S 1000 R Sport, in its line-up as it comes with most of the important upgrades already fitted. All but one, that is, which I’ll come to. It’s a big old girl, the singular R Thou’, there always feels like there’s a great deal of bike for the money underneath you, even before you start listing off all the special USPs it has. The showpiece is undoubtedly that engine; an angry, ebullient and barking mad derivation from BMW’s superbike. Surprisingly, it’s not the most powerful in this test, but it isn’t far off and the way it delivers all of that boom when the throttle is pinned can take your breath away. When you’re on a fast road trying to turn it on, clicking up through the gears, you get the sense that you’re mostly hanging on for the ride. It just pulls and pulls and pulls at your arm sockets, usually with the front wheel pawing the air in the lower gears, the violence accompanied by a guttural roar from beneath your chest after each quickshift. This bike has the electronic SACHS suspended chassis, of the semi-active variety, and it really is a window into the future. It’s been around a few years now, and while it doesn’t quite measure up to the similar (and newer) units on the superbike version, it’s utterly peachy for nearly every pace and riding situation. It alters its settings depending on which riding mode you’re in (Rain, Road and Dynamic), and then responds accordingly. The truth is that it genuinely is like a magic carpet ride for the majority of your time on it.
20 FREE FOUR-PAGE PULL-OUT SHOW GUIDE
Birchall brothers to headline this year’s Winter Classic Former world sidecar champions and TT legends the Birchall brothers will kick-start the new motorcycling season at this sixth Carole Nash Classic Bike Guide Winter Classic. The season-opener will welcome Ben and Tom to Newark Showground for the weekend of January 7-8, with the pair joining compere Steve Plater on stage for interviews covering their past achievements (world champs, four-time TT race winners, current sidecar TT lap record holders) as well as talking about what their futures hold. They will also be available for signing autographs and presenting awards. Away from the main stage the event offers enthusiasts the chance to explore the hundreds of classic bikes on display and, as the show is packed with traders and
Show Officials Exhibition manager:
Nick Mowbray Exhibition admin manager: Glynis Roberts Exhibition sales executives: Sophie Brown, 01507 529436 Andrew Catton, 01507 529594 Exhibition administrators: Jayne Stevens Jacob Beeson Kyle Curtis Rob Bee Natasha Haynes Matthew Corrigan Sponsor: Carole Nash Consultants Ltd, Classic Bike Guide, Classic Scooterist, Scootering Commentator: Steve Plater Judges: James Robinson Richard Duffin Show Guide editor: Jack Harrison Stand enquires: 01507 529430 Ticket hotline: 01507 529529 Ticket website: classicbikeshows.com
jumblers, it is the perfect place to grab some parts and spares to complete any restoration projects. Visitors will also be encouraged to start a new restoration, or hopefully inspired to finish off any current work being carried out ready for the year ahead. And the Winter Classic doesn’t just celebrate classic motorcycles, but also showcases the wonderful world of scooter ownership in the ever-popular Scooter World. Triple British scooter champion Stuart Day will be the attraction’s special guest, and the hall will be packed with local scooter clubs, private entries and traders. There’s also a charity auction, ‘Blast from the Past’ scooter start-ups and an interview with William ‘Bill’ Woodhouse who built scooters used in Quadrophenia.
FROM CAROLE NASH...
TIMETABLE SATURDAY, JANUARY 7 SUNDAY, JANUARY 8 Show opening times | 9am-5pm
Show opening times | 9am-4pm
10.30
MAIN STAGE The Birchall brothers with Steve Plater
10.30
MAIN STAGE The Birchall brothers with Steve Plater
11.30
SCOOTER WORLD Stuart Day and the Birchall brothers with Steve Plater
11.30
SCOOTER WORLD William ‘Bill’ Woodhouse with Dave Walker
12.00
SCOOTER WORLD Charity auction
12.00
12.45
SCOOTER WORLD Blast from the past scooter start-up
SCOOTER WORLD William ‘Bill’ Woodhouse with Steve Plater
13.00
MAIN STAGE The Birchall brothers with Steve Plater
SCOOTER WORLD Blast from the past scooter start-up
14.00
SCOOTER WORLD Custom Show presentations with Stuart Day
14.30
MAIN STAGE The Birchall brothers with Steve Plater
15.30
MAIN STAGE Show Awards presentation sponsored by Carole Nash
14.30
Show Guide printed at Mortons Print as part of Motor Cycle Monthly, mortonsprint.com
Carole Nash is once again proud to support the Carole Nash Classic Bike Guide Winter Classic. Our crew will be on hand at the event to chat with visitors and answer any questions you may have, so don’t forget to come and say hello. While you’re there you can pick up a Carole Nash goody bag, and get the info you need to download our amazing insidebikes app powered by Carole Nash! It includes a breathtaking experience that puts you in the saddle of Rocket Ron Haslam’s Honda superbike speeding around Donington GP circuit. We certainly can’t wait to get there, and we look forward to meeting you. Rebecca Donohue Head of marketing, Carole Nash
Awards list
Main show
Private entries Main hall
● A Barber 1975 Honda Sammy Miller High Boy ● D Beck 1964 Garelli Junior ● B Church 1958 AJS Trials ● M Curtis 1965 Greeves Challenger ● M Curtis 1962 Greeves Hawkstone MDS ● M Curtis 1965 Rickman Starmaker ● D Eardley 1956 BSA Gold Star DBD34 ● G Holloway 1973 Triumph Rob North Trident ● G Kendrick 1984 Yamaha FZ 750 ● G Kendrick 1985 Kawasaki GPZ 750 ● S McNeil 1978 Yamaha TZ 373 Sprint ● L Muxlow 1971 Suzuki GS 750 Cafe Racer ● M Nicholas 1958 Greeves 25TA ● V Shield 1976 Kawasaki Z 900
● J Sorbi ● K Thirtle ● A Tinnion ● S Wood ● A Wright
Scooter World
● S Baines ● P Guppy ● J Newbold ● J Nicholas ● M Robinson ● N Ronald ● I Smith ● M Swonnell
1964 Benelli FFA 1921 Dunelt Supercharged 1980 Krauser Sprint 1983 Honda VT 500 1962 Honda C72 Dream 1961 Lambretta Series 2 Li 125 1964 Douglas Vespa Sportique Vespa 90 1959 BSA Dandy Multiple exhibits TBC 1969 Lambretta GP125 1967 Moto Vespa Sprint 1961 Lambretta TV Series 2
● Best in Show, sponsored by Pocklington Renault of Louth (perpetual), £100 and Rosette ● Machine of Most Technical Interest, £100 ● Best Vintage ● Best Pre-War ● Best Post-War ● Best Continental ● Best Vintage Japanese ● Best Modern ● Best Private Entry 1st, 2nd, 3rd ● Best Competition (trials and scrambles) ● Best Competition (any other type) ● Best Un-Restored ● Best Restoration ● Best Paint Job ● Best Trade Entry
● Best Club Stand 1st, £750 and 10 Rosettes ● Best Club Stand 2nd, £500 and 10 Rosettes ● Best Club Stand 3rd, £250 and 10 Rosettes ● 10 Highly Commended Rosettes
Scooter World
● Best Scooter in Show, £100 and Rosette ● Best Scooter Display, £100 ● Best Custom Scooter ● Best Lambretta ● Best Vespa ● Best Street Racer ● Best Original Looking Scooter ● Best Other ● 10 Highly Commended Rosettes
24 RIDING AMERICA
BUCKET-LIST BIKING (and how to do it best)
The American Dream. Live it.
Instant bike gang, just add (cheap) fuel.
Ask a British rider to describe their dream two-wheel holiday and many will say North America. Here are the three best ways to make it happen. Words and photography: Steve Rose It’s never been easier to have a big adventure on a motorcycle. The amount of companies offering motorcycle tours has increased and the quality of their offerings has come on a lot in recent years, too. North America is probably the most popular destination and, although you can choose from a broad selection of bikes, many people still see a Harley as the best way to go. If you fancy a go then there are two options; get an organised operator to sort it for you (most can provide a fully guided or self-guided option) or sort it all out yourself. The left-field additional method would be to ship your own bike over there, but the cost and timescale involved mean this only really works for much longer trips than a two-week tour. Best option for you will depend on budget, bravery and the amount of time you have to organise things.
Why you need to ride America
But, before you choose, what is that makes America so special? Forget the clichés about never-ending straight roads, boring Harleys and no decent
Want corners? You got ’em.
corners. You will be amazed just how many of the USA’s back roads are twice as stunning as anything you’ll find in Europe. Once you’re out of the towns you’ll find mile after mile of well-surfaced, challengingbut-predictable, twisting, country back roads as well as the stereotype horizon-chasing, never-ending blacktop. Then there’s the scenery, the light, the mountains, the lakes and the wildlife. Oh, and the people and the food and the easygoing nature of most things over there. Choose the right state and you’ll also have perfect riding weather, plus cheap fuel (how does 65p per litre sound?) and a surprising amount of fascinating history all around you. Riding in America really can offer everything from crazy, big-city commuting (everyone should ride through Los Angeles at least once – you’ll never experience anything like it) to absolute solitude and the sense of freedom that only comes with being in the middle of the middle of nowhere – just you, and a coyote for company. They even speak the same language (the people, that is).
Route 66 guru Gary… and friend.
Every stop is a bike meet.
Option one: The guided tour
A guided tour is the full-on, noworries, bucket-list option. You’ll ride in a group of (usually) 10-15 bikes with between 10-20 riders and pillions, which means you have a ready-made bunch of mates to share it with. The qualified tour guide will have decades of local knowledge from riding the main streets and back roads. They’ll know the best twisties, the best lunch stops, the easiest fuel stations to get in and out of and where to eat and drink. Plus, they can deal with the local customs, traffic regulations and anything else likely to get in the way of a great time. A great tour guide assesses the riding skills of the group and adjusts the pace accordingly. Bringing a group of unfamiliar riders across thousands of miles safely and have them all feel confident and enjoy it is tricky. Add in some jet lag, unfamiliar roads and traffic, the occasional hangover and a huge variety of riding experience and you can see why they take it so seriously. There will also be a back-up van, driven by another experienced guide who knows the route. The van contains your luggage, plus spares, tools, first aid, a spare bike and stuff that you’ll hopefully never need, but will be very glad it’s there should something untoward happen. If you’ve never ridden in the USA before, a guided tour is the easiest way to go. Your biggest responsibility is to be by your bike on time in the morning, sober and ready to ride.
A good tour company includes the following on a guided tour: ● Rental motorcycle; current year
model, less than 20,000 miles.
● American licensed tour guide
on motorcycle, and assistant in support vehicle. ● Standard motorcycle insurance cover including CDW and state minimum liability cover. ● Support/luggage vehicle with spare motorcycle, first aid kit, coolbox/ soft drinks. ● Tourbook including maps. ● Accommodation in three- or fourstar hotels. ● National Park, State Park and National Monument entrance fees. ● All fuel and oil used on the tour. ● Hotel parking fees. ● Hotel-to-dealership transfers. ● Unlimited mileage. ● All taxes and one-way fees. ● Guaranteed financial and legal protection, from Travel Trust Association membership and ATOL Bond.
How much does that all cost? Two people on one motorcycle for a 10-day tour (eight days on the bike, plus one either side for travelling), sharing a room will typically cost around £2150 per person (prices come from Orange & Black – orangeand-black.co.uk – which runs excellent, professional tours to the highest standard – I know, I’ve spent my own money going on them).
Two people on two bikes sharing a room increases to around £3000 each, and if you want a room on your own you’ll be looking at closer to £3800. And don’t forget, on top of this you’ll need to add cost of flights, travel insurance, food and drink. So for two people, sharing a room, but each riding their own bike you’re looking at £6000, plus at least £1000 for two return flights, £200 travel insurance and around £100 a day spending money. Total cost: £8000. That’s a lot of money, a proper ‘bucket-list’ experience. Thing is… it’s worth it. And more besides. Seriously, if you can afford it, do it. It will not be a decision you regret.
The perfect starter trip to the US is… A guided tour of Route 66
Which is handy, because it’s also the one that many people really want to do. What makes Route 66 ideal is that in between the start point of Chicago and finish point of Los Angeles, most of the riding is easy, relatively straight and traffic-free. It’s a long way, but the days fairly easy, you’ll see all sides of American culture and experience a real piece of living history, too.
28 TRIED & TESTED
RST Pro Series Adventure II jacket and trousers
Reviewed by: Mikko Nieminen // RRP: Jacket £279.99, trousers £219.99 // Sizes: Jacket 40-54, trousers 30-44 // Colours: Black or silver // Info: rst-moto.com One thing that you want from your riding kit is versatility. The idea with the RST Pro Series Adventure II jacket and trousers is that they should work everywhere, from the deserts of Sudan to the wilds of Borneo – and in good old Blighty too. And how do they claim to pull this off? By using layers, of course.
Both items have a removable waterproof lining and an equally removable thermal lining. There’s also a removable storm flap that covers the neck area. But it’s the ventilation that really makes this suit special; there are conventional zipped vents in the shoulders, back and arms, and very clever large vent panels on the chest and thighs where a patch of fabric can be folded away to reveal a nice big mesh area that lets plenty of air in. Operating the zips for this is a little fiddly, but well worth the effort. Waterproofing is pretty good, but not bulletproof. It’s fine for a while but a couple of hours in driving rain did result in a few leaks here and there; mainly around the waist area, where waterproofing is difficult in any twopiece suit. There are two external pockets on the jacket and four on the trousers, as well as an inside pocket in the jacket, but none in the waterproof lining which makes accessing the inner pocket awkward if using the waterproof layer.
Adjusters in the arms and waist are great to get rid of any flapping if you don’t quite fill the jacket, and the Velcro patches in the sleeves help seal the gloves in nicely. Both items have flex panels to help movement, and they feel very relaxed while snug, allowing full movement on the bike. The jacket and trousers can be zipped together to keep them from moving in a crash situation and also to block draughts. Protectors are placed in the elbows, shoulders, back and knees (no hip armour). They are all made of soft and malleable material, which doesn’t restrict movement or hamper comfort. Other cool features include a water bladder pocket on the back, and a removable map pocket that turns into a bum bag (I still haven’t been able to bring myself use it as a bum bag, but if you think that’s a look you can pull off, then go for it!). This is a good, quality suit, and offers levels of performance usually only found in more expensive products.
Keis X10 heated vest Reviewed by: Mikko Nieminen // RRP: £119.99 // Sizes: 34-52 // Colour: Black // Info: motohaus.com
Shark Spartan Carbon helmet
Reviewed by: Ross Mowbray // RRP: £299.99 // Sizes: XS-2XL // Colours: White/silver or black/red or black anthracite // Info: nevis.uk.com My first impressions of the Shark Spartan Carbon were overwhelmingly positive. There’s no denying it’s a good looking helmet – I love it. I also couldn’t believe its weight (or the lack thereof ) when I first picked it up. Constructed from carbon fibre and fibreglass, and coming in at just over 1.3 kilograms, my neck noticed a pretty dramatic difference in comparison to my previous helmets. In addition to its exceptional appearance and weight, it’s a well kitted-out lid, packed with fantastic features including a Shark Skin cover which works to reduce whistling noise at high speeds, a double spoiler with built-in air extractors which optimises aerodynamics and internal cooling, a drop-down internal sun visor and a Pinlock MaxVision visor which works to reduce visor fogging. I’d also expect it to offer decent levels of safety too (thankfully, something I haven’t had confirm just yet), with Shark often
scoring highly in the SHARP – helmet safety scheme – test. I wear glasses when riding and as a consequence things can often get a little uncomfortable and occasionally steamy in (particularly as the colder weather draws in) but, thanks to the Pinlock anti-fog visor insert – which comes as standard – plus special consideration given for glasses-wearers in the form of grooves in the side of the helmet, I’m comfortable and I can see. I’ve also got quite a small head (insert joke here) and can often struggle to get a decent fit for a helmet – but the Shark Spartan Carbon is absolutely spot on for me. In short, the Shark Spartan is a fantastic helmet. It’s attractive, light, aerodynamic and practical, and at a cost of just £300 it’s also excellent value for money – and it’s covered by Shark's five year warranty. I’d wholeheartedly recommend.
If you ride your bike all year round, heated kit is essential. The Keis X10 goes a long way to battle wintry temperatures by keeping your core nice and warm on your rides. The vest is ‘dual powered’, meaning that you can power it via your 12V motorcycle battery or with the optional Keis battery packs (sold separately, £55). Wiring the vest to the bike’s battery is not exactly difficult, but since I often ride several different bikes I opted for the battery pack. That way I can keep the vest warm regardless of the bike I’m on – or even when I’m not on the bike at all. The vest fits snugly under my riding jacket. The material is stretchy, and there are elasticated side panels, so it doesn’t pull when you move around you just have to remember to unplug it from the bike before dismounting if you go for the bike battery connection. Heat panels are positioned on chest and kidney areas. The level of heat is pleasant and with an optional controller (£29.99) you can select high, medium or low. The difference between the different heat levels isn’t huge, and I tend to stick to the lowest setting to preserve battery, which sees me through a two-hour daily commute with no problems. According to Keis, current draw for the vest is 1.5A, and typical power 18W. You can also plug Keis heated gloves and inner soles to the vest and run the whole set from the bike battery, but this will naturally add to the draw. The vest has made my winter commute on two wheels a lot more enjoyable. I would recommend it to anyone riding in cold weather.
THE INSIDE LINE TO CLASSIC JAPANESE IRON WITH STEVE COOPER FROM THE VJMC 31
A restoration blueprint Words and image: Steve Cooper
On the off chance that this column’s dire warnings and entreaties haven’t dissuaded you from taking on a full restoration of an old Japanese motorcycle, we’ll begin looking at what’s required to actually do the job. First off, it pays to not assume anything about your new project. Don’t assume it’s as good internally as it looks, don’t assume it’ll all come apart easily, don’t assume that parts will be easy to find and don’t assume you won’t become disillusioned at some point. This is all just part and parcel of the process. So, it’s there in your workshop, garage, shed or spare room – and be warned, the latter happens a lot in our world. Once the aura of excitement begins to diminish you’ll need to come up with a solid plan, but rather than having to devise it yourself here’s one we’ve laid out for you. It’s a modus operandi used by most seasoned serial restorers and it generally works well. First off take pictures, and lots of them. If you don’t have a digital camera or a decent camera on your phone, get one now. The advent of digital photography is possibly the biggest single advance in vehicle
restoration ever. It allows you to take endless images of vital components, wiring or cable runs, component orientation, the sequences of disassembly, connectors, etc. etc. These will be vital later on when it comes to the rebuild as memory alone is fallible and written notes often tend to lose their meaning after several months. Shoot everything from at least two angles, preferably three and then immediately back up your images to something before you delete them from your phone or misplace the memory card. Also, name or identify the images so you know what’s what and where it goes. In most circumstances you’ll be working in stages as components are removed. When the tank comes off there’ll be ignition coils and wiring underneath, so you’ll need to be able to identify which wires go where and what colour they are. Behind side panels you’ll be finding a regulator or a rectifier, relays and connectors; again having records of this makes the rebuild so much easier. Knowing which side of the frame tube a subloom runs can be the difference between a pleasant evening in the shed and late night fuelled with angst and bad language. Beyond this comes the serious business of choosing the right tools, and this is where the fun starts. It’s
easy to rush in, unbolt everything in sight in a flurry of enthusiasm and then find yourself with a dozen broken fixings, a pile of parts and only half an idea how they all interlink. It’s much better to have that plan! Before you snap off just one bolt, spray anything with a thread in easing oil, penetrating fluid or the like. If asked to name one thing this column’s workshop couldn’t run without it would have to be ACF-50. No, not a blatant plug or a shameless product placement, rather a statement of fact. This stuff has the ability to penetrate and free seriously seized components. Left to do its thing for a few days, nuts and bolts that would normally shear in half actually come apart with relative ease. Sometimes it’s necessary to get seriously angry with seized whatevers and the controlled application of heat can work wonders, but it needs to be done with care. Avoid heating anything that has plastic or wiring nearby, ditto fuel tanks and apparently empty carburettors. Note that even decrepit old brake fluid is capable of starting a merry little blaze. Ideally the use of hot air gums or gas torches should be kept to outside and with a bucket of water just in case. It should be pretty obvious, even to a beginner, which are the key parts of the bike but as the project gets
“The home of the Japanese classic”
deeper into the minutiae it all gets a lot greyer. Washers, bolts, nuts and the like may or may not all be the same so again decent digital images help in later identification and location. Perhaps the best route is to tag-andbag sub-assemblies as they come off the bike so they can be dealt with later. For example, the headlight will slide off the forks complete with its mounting brackets, indicators and possibly a switch; stored in a box like this it can then be dissected at leisure. When taking wheels off the bike leave the brake plates in place and refit the axle and the nut; this way all of the components stay in one place until you’re ready to deal with them. Generally the easiest way to take an
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engine out of a frame is to loosen the engine mount bolts, lay the bike on its side and lift the frame off the bike. So, in less than a thousand words we’ve managed to trivialise the breakdown of a bike to its component parts, but the basic method is still set out here. Next time we’ll look at inspection and the subbing out work you aren’t set up to do. The VJMC – run by motorcyclists for motorcyclists. vjmc.com 01454 501310
vjmcmembershipuk@gmail.com
32 USED BIKE GUIDE
The begin-again bike
Thanks to Bacons Motorcycles / East London Kawasaki for the loan of the bike. 737-741 Eastern Avenue, Ilford, Essex IG2 7RT Tel: 020 8252 6020 Web: baconsmotorcyles.co.uk
It might only make 11bhp, but what you're looking at here is one of the all-time greats; especially at this time of year... Words and photography: Bob Pickett As the motorcycle that launched probably millions of biking careers, Honda’s CG125 ran from 1975 to 2008 before it was replaced by the CB125F. It epitomises the premise of ‘basic biking’; I doubt there is a more simple motorcycle. We took out a 2005 model with an astonishingly low 1550 miles on the clock (post test ride!).
Give me some spec
A 124cc single-cylinder engine putting out 11bhp and 7ft-lb of torque lives in a simple steel tubular cradle frame, hauled up by a single 240mm front disc and 110mm rear drum. Changes to the CG125 were minimal throughout its life, but were always useful: pushrods did away with seizing problems on early models, and towards the end of its time the bike got a front disc instead of a drum(!), more comfortable saddle and improved mirrors.
So what’s it like to ride?
If this is your first bike, you know no different. But if you have been riding a while on larger capacity machinery your initial thought will – I guarantee – be “what am I doing?”. To begin with, it all feels very wibbly-wobbly; sitting precariously on those slender tyres, with weedy handlebars sat in front of you and next to nothing underneath.
But, after a while – and you will have to give it a little time – you start to appreciate the CG125’s charms. It has a nice slick little gearbox. First gear gets you going smoothly (look to change quickly), second takes you to 40mph (at a gripe, I usually went into the relatively broad third at 30mph), third will get you to 50mph. Fourth gear has you humming along at 50mph with no effort and the CG is enjoyable to ride at this pace. I even made a couple of carefully planned overtakes. The max speed of 63mph can be held in top easily enough. It’ll corner well enough. Once we’d been out on the road for a while I was getting frustrated with other road users slowing down for bends that the CG was happy to take faster. It does the ‘town thing’ well, being small, light and low. Let’s be honest, the suspension is made from old bedsprings – the CG will bounce from pothole to pothole on rougher roads – but it copes well enough
with the average surface. And the brakes require careful planning, they’re weak but the target audience for this bike (UK: learners, Asia: basic transport for the masses) don’t want or need any more.
What nick is it in?
Really good. Then again, averaging140 miles a year it should be! I understand it was bought to pass CBT and log some miles before it was put away. It had some fuel drip from the overflow;
the tank may have been overfilled – the dealer is going to check.
What’s it worth?
The dealer wants £1599 for a 2005 model with a paltry 1550 miles logged, in great condition. There are CG125s out there; my dealer search revealed a small number of tidy examples, ranging from £1495 for a 2007 model with 3600 miles on the clock, to another 2007 bike with 4300 miles racked up for sale at £1995.
34 NEW RIDER
SIX
tips for choosingg the rigght winter jacket A good jacket can make all the difference in the cold stuff...
Riding in winter can be a lot of fun with quieter roads and fewer bugs landing on your visor. However, when the mercury drops and the heavens open, you’ll want to be well kitted out to battle the elements. Get it right and riding in the winter months can be a joy, get it wrong and you’ll have a perfectly rotten time on your bike. The good news is that it’s easy to prepare for the winter and, right now, the bike shops are full of cool winter kit. Here are a few tips for selecting the right jacket this winter...
SAY NO TO SOGGY BOTTOMS
The main thing to check is that your jacket and trousers are water and windproof. Many manufacturers have their own patented technologies, or use universal brands such as GoreTex. Some jackets use waterproof liners (often removable ones) to do the job, while others have the waterproof membrane incorporated to the outer fabric. The first places that will leak are the collar, cuffs and zips, so when choosing a jacket, pay special attention to these bits. If your suit is not waterproof and you want a cheaper way to keep the elements at bay, try separate waterproofs that go over your jacket and trousers.
TEXTILES OR LEATHERS?
As a rule of thumb you get better weather protection from top quality textile jackets and trousers than the leather equivalents, but leather offers better abrasion resistance. However, cheap textiles can be worse than good leathers. If you’re planning on riding your bike through the winter, high-quality water and windproof textiles might be a more suitable option than leathers. If you opt for leathers, you can always keep dry with the help of some separate waterproofs.
ZIP IT!
AND BREATHE
Many textiles are designed to be waterproof but still breathable, keeping you dry without making you sweaty. Wearing a technical shirt under the jacket will also help wick moisture off your skin, but for complete comfort make sure that the jacket is breathable. Separate waterproofs can reverse the benefits of a breathable jacket, so ideally the jacket itself should be waterproof, too.
TURN UP THE HEAT
Staying warm on two wheels in the winter months is a tricky business. A good thermal lining in your jacket goes a long way to keeping you comfortable, but an extra jumper won’t be a bad idea either. If the thermal layer is removable you can use the same garment in the warmer months and save money by not having to purchase a separate summer jacket. If all else fails, heated vests add a lovely warm layer under your jacket, and some even come with pockets for the manufacturers’ own heated elements.
BRIGHT SPARKS
Considering how often drivers fail to see motorcyclists – even in good weather conditions – when the days are short and wet the risk is even higher. It's worth checking that your gear has bright hi-vis and reflective elements; often piping, logos or styled patches. Bright coloured hi-vis gear is great for making you more visible in daylight, and reflective patches will make you more visible in poor light. If your jacket has no hi-vis or reflective patches, there are various vests that will add a bit of sparkle and visibility to your attire.
If you buy your jacket and trousers as a set they often come with a zip to attach them together at the back. This stops the trousers sliding down, the jacket riding up and cold air coming in. Depending on the garment the zips can be just a few inches long or go round the whole waist. Check that the zip is easy to use and that there are no snags. Some trousers also come with braces that will do the same job.