T R I E D & T E S T E D R E S TAU R A N T
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal
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B A C K G R O U N D Dinner was conceived in the late ‘90s by Heston Blumenthal, a British chef regarded a pioneer of multisensory cooking, food pairing and flavour encapsulation. His fascination with historic gastronomy – the savoury ice creams of the late 1800s, the theatre of Tudor dining experiences and the dishes of Alice’s adventures in Wonderland – all resonated with his unique approach to cooking, so he teamed up with fellow chef Ashley Palmer-Watts, food historians and the team at Hampton Court Palace to create a very modern dining experience inspired by the past. Dinner by Heston was CUISINE launched at the Modern dishes Mandarin Oriental inspired by historic Hyde Park in 2011 British gastronomy and 10 years on, MENU the two-MichelinÀ la carte starred restaurant remains one of MICHELIN STAR S London’s premier Two dining destinations.
W H A T ’ S I T L I K E ? A fitting menu backdrop, the restaurant’s interior is contemporary and innovative, yet nods tradition. Floor-to-ceiling glass walls reveal the kitchen’s unique pulley system, modelled on a version used by the Royal court, and ivory-painted walls are decorated with porcelain wall sconces in the shape of antique jelly moulds. The uninterrupted views of Hyde Park, King Henry VIII’s former hunting grounds, bringing the restaurant’s historical connection full circle. T H E F O O D The cuisine takes inspiration
from facts, events and recipes dating back to the 13th century and this is reflected on the menu, with the source of origin explained for every dish. For example, Hay Smoked Salmon (1730 The Complete Practical Cook by Charles Carter); Roast Halibut & Green Sauce (1440 by Elias Ashmole); and Tipsy Cake (1810 The English Cookery Book by J.H. Walsh). This really sets the scene, but nothing
HOURS
Open for lunch and dinner, seven days a week
LOCATION
Mandarin Oriental, Hyde Park, London, Knightsbridge
DRESS CODE Casual
CONTACT
+44 (0)20 7201 3833; dinnerbyheston.co.uk
SEPTEMBER 2021
The dishes take inspiration from facts, events and recipes dating as far back as the 13th century
can really prepare you for the taste. Every dish was sensational and in my opinion, without fault. The smoked salmon entrée was delicate and melt-in-the-mouth, effortlessly balanced by the ‘Gentlemen’s relish and pickled lemon salad’ and the perfect precursor to the roast halibut main, which was firm yet tender. Its familiar mild and sweet taste was enhanced by fragrant braised chicory, plus parsley, pepper, onion and eucalyptus, hence the green sauce, which had just a hint of a curry flavour. Sides were buttered bay carrots and triple cooked chips, which my partner enjoyed with his Fillet of Hereford Beef (circa 1830) with mushroom ketchup. And then came the dessert – the famous Tipsy Cake with spit roast pineapple, baked for one hour before serving and for me, reminiscent of a boozy bread-and-butter pudding with an almost brioche-like texture. It was quite simply sensational and I refused to share! If you have room for more, the waiter will hand-mix you a palate-cleansing mini ice cream at your table side.
T H E S E R V I C E Staff were much more than waiters and sommeliers, but enthusiastic connoisseurs essential to the dining experience. Knowledgeable, professional, chatty and fun, they were crucial to the culinary theatre, whetting our appetites with their lively descriptions of the traditions that had inspired our dishes, as well as techniques and ingredients used. V E R D I C T Dinner by Heston will stand the test of time as a memorable dining experience worthy of a gastro bucket list tick. Gemma Greenwood
