BTME - October 2020

MIDDLE EAST

OCTOBER 2020

24 HOURS IN RAK

BUSINESS BITES

EASTERN PROMISE

PLUS

Make the most of a day trip to the UAE's adventure capital

A taster of the region's best business lunches and brunches

Check out new hotels to visit when you next head to Japan

Tried and Tested • North Italy • Women's watches

THE NEW N O R M A L I S AT I O N

Gulf-Israel ties usher new era for travel

UAE DHS12 OMAN RO1.30 BAHRAIN BD1.30 SAUDI ARABIA SR12 KUWAIT KD1

CONTENTS

OCTOBER 2020

R E G UL A R S 06

T HE R EP OR T

UPFRONT

TRIED & TESTED HOTELS

Airline and hotel news from around the world 14

BTME AWARDS UPDATE

60 The Chedi Al Bait, Sharjah – a GHM Hotel

We reveal the full shortlist of crown contenders for 2020

61 Waldorf Astoria, Ras Al Khaimah

24 HOURS IN ... RAK

62 The Mandrake, London

16

Make the most of a day in the UAE’s adventure capital

63 The London Marriott

County Hall Hotel

F E AT UR E S 30

20

T H E N E W N O R M A L I S AT I O N

Freshly inked Gulf-Israel deals usher a new era for the region, with travel and trade set to flourish

44

BUSINESS BITES

A taster of the region’s best business lunches and brunches 40

ON TH E C OVER

3

CONCIERGE CONUNDRUM

Will AI and virtual reality spell the end for the hotel concierge?

44

LITTLE ITALY

Exploring the north-eastern region of Friuli Venezia Giulia 48

EASTERN PROMISE

65 LN Garden Hotel, Nansha, Guangzhou, China

HEROINES OF THE HOUR

A guide to travelling during the pandemic

New hotels to check out during your next trip to Japan 54

64 Rosewood Hong Kong

Our favourite women’s watches of the year revealed

16

66

SMART TRAVELLER

48

30 OCTOBER 2020

WELCOME

D

espite the ongoing turmoil caused by COVID-19, the world keeps turning. Even during recent lockdowns the wheel of international affairs has been in motion, and while some matters have been put on the backburner as global leaders navigate their countries through the unprecedented health crisis, many others have come to the fore.

In the Middle East, behind the scenes negotiations between the UAE and Israel have been in full swing, leading to the surprise “normalisation agreement” announcement in August.

Face-to-face meetings between high-level delegations of the two countries soon followed, which among other things, led to the first ever commercial flight between the nations, with Israel’s flag carrier El Al flying direct from Tel Aviv to Abu Dhabi.

The historic agreement, known as the ‘Abraham Accord’, brokered by the US, was signed by the UAE and Israel on September 15 at the White House, ushering a new era for business and travel in the Middle East. Following in the UAE’s footsteps, Bahrain has also normalised its relationship with Israel and it is widely believed other GCC states will follow suit.

Israel says it expects to seal deals worth at least US$500 million after normalising ties with the UAE and Bahrain and sectors set to benefit include security, science, banking, education, agritech, travel tech and many more – if commercial flights were to operate between Israel and the GCC, it would deliver significant travel and tourism opportunities.

Last month I interviewed Professor Yaniv Poria, Chairman of the Department of Hotel and Tourism Management at Israel’s Ben-Gurion University of the Negev (see page 20), who told me Israelis were excited at the possibility of visiting the UAE. He cited the Gulf ’s food, shopping and adventure tourism offering, its high-quality resorts and airlines and importantly, the region’s value for money, as major draw cards, while the chance for cross-country knowledge exchange “in the spirit of innovation” also appealed, he said. “It’s a novel destination and Israelis are curious,” Poria told me.

The potential for business cooperation between Israel and the Gulf States is undeniably huge and Ofir Akunis, Israel’s Minister of Regional Co-operation told London’s Financial Times the landmark bilateral economic relationships would “build a new Middle East”. Beyond that, the most profound outcome possible was that mutually beneficial economic development would build a “bridge to peace”, he said.

Given the current global environment, this could be a positive legacy of 2020, salvaging a year ravaged by COVID-19. It’s certainly a new dawn and I look forward to reporting on the travel benefits normalisation deals will most certainly deliver.

Gemma Greenwood, Editor

THIS ISSUE’S PICKS

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Business Traveller Middle East is jointly published

by Motivate Media Group and Panacea Media Ltd M OT I VAT E M E D I A GRO UP

Editor-in-Chief Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Managing Partner and Group Editor Ian Fairservice Editor Gemma Greenwood Art Director Clarkwin Cruz Editorial Co-ordinator Londresa Flores Contributors Tom Otley, Hannah Brandler, Seher Asaf, Melanie Swan, Caroline Rowe, Gretchen Kelly, Chris Hall, Jackie Chen General Manager – Production S Sunil Kumar Assistant Production Manager Binu Purandaran Production Supervisor Venita Pinto Chief Commercial Officer Anthony Milne Group Sales Manager Dane Hills PAN ACE A M E D I A LT D

Managing Director Julian Gregory Associate Publisher Middle East Rania Apthorpe Global Editor-in-Chief Tom Otley

24 HOURS IN RAS AL KHAIMAH Tips to make the most of this adventure playground (Page 16)

BUSINESS BITES A glance at the region’s top business lunches and dining spots to whet your appetite (Page 30)

EASTERN PROMISE Discover which new hotels you can check into during your next trip to Japan (Page 48)

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© 2020 PANACEA MEDIA LTD AND MOTIVATE MEDIA GROUP

OCTOBER 2020

UPFRONT

ABU DHABI TRAVEL UPDATE EXPO 2020 PLANS WELL ON TRACK WITH NEW INITIATIVES REVEALED

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PREPARATIONS FOR EXPO 2020 DUBAI, which will run from October 1, 2021 to March 31, 2022, are up to speed, according to the Bureau of International des Expositions (BIE).

“The construction of all pavilions is progressing well and is in compliance with the safety regulations and barrier measures issued by the organisers and will be hopefully completed by end of the year,” said BIE Secretary General Dimitri Kerkentzes, speaking at the recent virtual Expo 2020 International Participants Meeting (IPM). “Dubai and the UAE, along with all participating countries, have continued to make remarkable progress towards delivering the next World Expo, despite the impact and challenges of a global pandemic.”

Construction aside, organisers have also been busy working on initiatives designed to deliver positive global change, with the latest projects added to the event’s Global Best Practice Programme including battery-powered underwater fishing lights that reduce the amount of unwanted catch and a bartering system that replaces money with goats to improve the lives of Pakistan’s rural communities.

The Global Best Practice Programme is designed to address some of the world’s biggest

challenges, including those laid out in the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), and highlights the importance of bringing together creative minds to develop innovative solutions, one of Expo’s key themes.

Expo 2020 Dubai has also teamed up with the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation to support grassroots innovators with the ambition and potential to help people living in challenging environments, many of which have been worsened by the current global health crisis.

Expo’s global innovation and partnership programme, Expo Live, announced at the IPM, will identify, co-fund and upscale ideas with a focus on water, sanitation, health, agriculture and financial inclusion. The Gates Foundation’s Emergency Response Programme, which helps communities build systems to respond to crises, will share expertise and best practices.

Speaking at the IPM, His Excellency Sheikh Nahyan bin Mubarak Al Nahyan, Minister of Tolerance, and Commissioner General of Expo 2020 Dubai, said: “While much has changed in the recent months, we are united in our ambitions. We will welcome the world; we will tell our stories to the world; and together we will help build a better world.”

NEW WRISTBAND RULE Passengers arriving in Abu Dhabi are now required to wear a wristband while they complete their mandatory 14day quarantine, Etihad Airways has confirmed. The medically approved tag, which tracks the wearer’s location, is given to residents and citizens arriving from all countries after they clear immigration. Exemptions include passengers aged under 18 and over 60, those suffering from a chronic illness and those with a diplomatic passport.

COVID-19 TEST REMINDER Abu Dhabi Authorities are reminding residents that if they return to the emirate via Dubai, they must present a negative COVID-19 test and take another swab test on the sixth day to ensure they are virus free.

Regulations also state that any UAE resident entering Abu Dhabi must show a negative PCR or laser test within 48 hours of receiving the result.

Dubai launches region’s first global retirement programme DUBAI TOURISM HAS UNVEILED the region’s first global retirement programme for expatriates and foreigners aged 55 and above.

The ‘Retire in Dubai’ (retireindubai.com) initiative, developed in collaboration with the General Directorate of Residency and Foreigners Affairs, positions the emirate as the world’s preferred retirement destination, with key propositions for retirees covering healthcare, real estate, insurance and banking. Eligible applicants will be provided with a Retirement Visa, which is renewable every five years. The first phase of the programme is targeting UAE residents already working in Dubai who have reached retirement age and are familiar with the emirate’s value proposition.

The initial response to the scheme has been “remarkable”, according to Dubai Tourism Director General, Helal Almarri.

OCTOBER 2020

UPFRONT

UAE BUSINESS EVENTS INDUSTRY GETS BACK ON ITS FEET UAE TRAVEL INDUSTRY STAKEHOLDERS

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are taking positive steps to get the country’s business events industry back on track.

Dubai Tourism has formed a new Business Events Stakeholders Committee with a view to reactivating the sector post-COVID-19, chaired by the entity’s director general, His Excellency Helal Almarri.

The committee, which comprises senior officials of airlines, venues, hotels, destination management companies (DMCs) and

professional conference organisers (PCOs), aims to overcome current challenges with strategies that enhance Dubai’s position as a host city for international business events.

Organisations represented at the committee’s first meeting in September included Emirates, Dubai World Trade Centre, Jumeirah Hotels & Resorts, Alpha Destination Management, MCI Middle East and Expo 2020 Dubai.

MCI has also announced a partnership with Etihad Airways, with the airline

BTME Awards shortlist announced

ABU DHABI REVEALS COVID-FREE ‘SAFE ZONE’ CONCEPT FOR TOURISM AND EVENTS THE DEPARTMENT OF CULTURE AND TOURISM – ABU DHABI

(DCT Abu Dhabi) has trialled an innovative ‘Safe Zone’ concept in preparation for the return of tourism and events to the emirate.

The initiative follows the successful delivery of UFC Fight Island™, an event that saw the creation of a worldclass ‘safe zone’ for 2,500 people over five weeks on Yas Island and hosting one of the most watched fight nights of all time.

UFC Fight Island™ occupied an 11km stretch of the island – the ‘safe zone’ – which was locked off from the rest of the emirate and housed UFC personnel from 35 nations, event OCTOBER 2020

becoming the PCO’s official travel and destination management partner of its key 2021 and 2022 events.

The tie-up will see the airline offer speaker and travel management services for all conferences serviced by MCI in Abu Dhabi.

It means all exhibitors, speakers and visitors will be able to purchase Etihad’s full conference package at a special rate, including event entrance, flights, hotel accommodation and ground transportation.

THE SHORTLIST OF CONTENDERS

staff and Yas Island employees for the entire five weeks. Health and safety procedures included COVID-19 testing of event staff every 72 hours and 14-day isolation periods.

These strict measures helped to achieve a COVID-free sanctuary spanning Yas Marina Circuit, Yas Links Golf Course, Yas Beach, the Flash Forum, a multi-purpose indoor venue where the fights were staged, plus hotels and attractions.

DCT Abu Dhabi now plans to evolve this concept for the return of tourism and other events in the coming months, including the scheduled annual Abu Dhabi Grand Prix at the end of 2020.

for the Business Traveller Middle East Awards 2020 has been revealed, with full details now available online at www.btme.ae/shortlist/ and on pages 14 to15 of this issue.

Winners of the 35 awards in categories that range from ‘Airline with the Best Cabin Crew’, ‘Best Airport for Duty Free Shopping in the Middle East’ and ‘Airline with the Best Frequent Flyer Programme’ to ‘Best Airline Worldwide’, ‘Best Airport in the World’ and ‘Best Hotel Brand Worldwide’, will be revealed at an online awards ceremony this month (October).

Keep an eye on our website and socials for the full list of winners, which will also be published in the November issue of BTME. We would like to take this opportunity to thank our loyal readers for their votes and the hotels, airlines, airports and car rental companies participating in the 2020 awards programme.

For more information on the awards contact dane.hills@motivate.ae

UPFRONT

IHG and Emirates launch triple rewards offer INTERCONTINENTAL HOTELS GROUP (IHG) and Emirates

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Skywards, the loyalty programme of Emirates and flydubai, have launched a limited-time offer enabling IHG Rewards Club and Emirates Skywards members to earn triple Skywards Miles when booking a stay at any IHG Hotels & Resorts worldwide. Guests can earn six Skywards Miles per US$1 spent at brands including InterContinental Hotels & Resorts, Kimpton Hotels & Restaurants, Hualuxe Hotels and Resorts, Crowne Plaza, Hotel Indigo, Voco, Holiday Inn and Holiday Inn Express globally and three Skywards Miles per $1 spent at brands including Staybridge Suites. The promotion is valid for registrations and hotel bookings made from now until December 31, 2020 for hotel stays until March 31, 2021.

Visit ihg.com/Skywards (English) and ihg.com/Emirates (Arabic).

ATLANTIS INTRODUCES FREE COVID TESTS ATLANTIS, THE PALM, is the latest hotel to offer free COVID-19 PCR tests for international guests. Dubai’s mega resort has partnered with one of the emirate’s leading hospitals to set up an on-site medical facility, eliminating the need for guests to travel to a clinic or hospital.

International guests staying at the property for five nights or more are eligible and can opt to have the test carried out in their room or suite with results returned within 24 hours.

OCTOBER 2020

ALL-EMIRATI HOTEL OPENS IN PRIME BUSINESS DISTRICT DUBAI’S FIRST ALL-EMIRATI hotel has opened its doors near Jebel Ali Free Zone (JAFZA).

‘The Manor by JA’, located in Al Furjan on the Abu Dhabi-Dubai route and close to Al Maktoum International Airport and the Expo 2020 site, is run by an Emirati family and all staff are UAE nationals, promising guests an authentic destination experience during their stay.

Ideal for business travellers visiting Dubai or local companies seeking a new place to meet, the four-star property, part of the Dubai-based JA Resorts & Hotels group, features 247 rooms and suites, each offering sleek interiors, a slimline workstation, Queen bed, practical seating area, a coffee station and a trendy industrial-style bathroom.

The standard 28 sqm rooms promise “just what you need, no more, no less”, while the 180 sqm suite on the first floor is ideal for longer stays, meetings, or those who appreciate larger spaces.

A well-equipped gym, rooftop pool and F&B options geared towards convenient dining are also part of the offering.

Ibn Battuta Mall and the Dubai Metro are close to the property too.

Radisson opens doors to luxury Riyadh resort

Radisson to debut Park Inn brand in Jeddah and Riyadh

RADISSON HOTEL GROUP has opened

RADISSION WILL ALSO DEBUT its business-

a new luxury desert retreat 98km north of Riyadh, which is ideal for small corporate gatherings and incentive groups. The Nofa Resort Riyadh, A Radisson Collection Hotel, offers 57 African-style villas and bungalows with private swimming pools and group experiences including a safari in Nofa Wildlife Park and desert golf. Previously operated as a members-only resort, the property, which is also home to a spa, pools and three restaurants, is now publicly bookable exclusively through Radisson’s website. A bespoke private dining service is available for business events too.

focused Park Inn by Radisson brand in Jeddah and Riyadh this year. Based on a midscale hospitality concept designed to deliver a “feel good atmosphere”, Park Inn by Radisson Jeddah Madinah Road and Park Inn

by Radisson Riyadh (pictured) promise guests a “fresh and energetic” experience defined by “good food and vibrant environments” connected through “design, technology and social spaces”. Radisson has also signed its second Radisson Collection property in the KSA capital. The Mansard Riyadh features 191 rooms, serviced apartments and villas.

UPFRONT

AIRLINE NEWS MASK UP, UNLESS YOU’RE IN SWEDEN FACE MASK RULES and etiquette vary from

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country to country and even city to city. While they are mandatory in all public spaces in some, others have adopted mask-free policies.

If you dream of wandering the streets in pre-COVID fashion during your travels, there is one destination that won’t blink an eyelid at your bare-faced ‘cheek’, with Sweden (pictured) refusing to recommend the use of face masks, even on public transport. It’s a similar story in fellow Nordic countries Finland and Denmark, but at other end of the scale, if you are caught not wearing one in Sri Lanka (including outdoors), or flout social distancing rules, police will force you into a 14-day quarantine.

In Italy, one of Europe’s most COVID-hit nations, mask rules vary according to the time of day – it is only mandatory to wear one outside between 6pm and 6am and only “in proximity of locations and premises that are open to the public as well as in public spaces whose physical characteristics may facilitate the formation of gatherings of both spontaneous and/or occasional nature”. Go figure!

COVID testing at Frankfurt Airport

SAUDI RESUMES FLIGHTS

Saudi Arabia partially resumed international flights on September 15, allowing “exceptional categories” of citizens and residents, including some businesspeople, to travel in and out of the kingdom. However, the complete lift of restrictions on the departure and return of citizens and the “opening of air, sea and land outlets” will not be permitted until January 1, 2021, an Interior Ministry official told state news agency Spa.

OMAN OPENS UP

Oman will reopen to international flights on October 1, Oman Airports and the Sultanate’s Civil Aviation Authority confirmed in a statement. Muscat International is currently operating flights to select regional destinations for Omani residents only, but under the new directive, overseas arrivals and departures will be permitted from this month.

LU F T H A NS A T E S T U PDAT E

Lufthansa has delivered more than 150,000 PCR tests at Frankfurt Airport since June after partnering with biotech company Centogene. Passengers departing from or arriving at Frankfurt Airport (FRA) can pay €59 (US$69) for the test, with results arriving in six to eight hours, and €139 ($163) for results within three hours.

C ONTAC TLE S S S CHIPHOL

Amsterdam Schiphol Airport has launched a new contactless service allowing customers to order food and drink online and pick it up after security. Travellers scan a QR code via banners or media screens located at and after security checkpoints, enabling them to order, pay online and choose a time to pick up their purchases.

Schiphol says it is “one of the first airports in Europe” to offer the service.

CHICKEN OR BEEF? AIRLINE FOOD CAN BE GOURMET OR GROSS, depending on the carrier and more often than not, the class of cabin in which you travel.

In Thailand, if you’re a passenger who’s missing the in-flight dining experience or you just have a penchant for airline food, you can visit the Thai Airways aircraft-themed café and restaurant at its Bangkok headquarters. Inside there’s a real cabin atmosphere with aircraft seats set amongst furniture made from old engine parts, including engine fans converted into table legs. The menu features in-flight favourites including pasta dishes, shawarma, chicken tikka, roast beef and for dessert, cheesecake and more. Customers even get to climb the same ladder used to embark the plane to enter the restaurant where they scan a QR code to receive an e-boarding pass on their smartphone. The best part is that there’s no turbulence, so you can dine without the risk of spillage. The only dilemma you have is whether to choose ‘chicken or beef ’.

OCTOBER 2020

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BEST AIRLINE WORLDWIDE Emirates Etihad Airways Lufthansa Qatar Airways Singapore Airlines

BEST AIRPORT IN THE MIDDLE EAST

CONGRATULATIONS TO THE SHORTLIST AIRLINE WITH THE BEST CABIN CREW Emirates Etihad Airways Qatar Airways Saudi Arabian Airlines Singapore Airlines

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BEST AIRPORT LOUNGE IN THE MIDDLE EAST

Al Mourjan Business Lounge, Hamad International Airport Emirates First Class Lounge, Dubai International Airport Etihad Airways Diamond First Class Lounge Abu Dhabi International Airport Oman Air First & Business Class, Muscat International Airport Turkish Airlines Business-Class Lounge, Istanbul Atatürk Airport

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BEST NEW BUSINESS HOTEL IN THE MIDDLE EAST (OPEN FROM JAN 2018)

Al Bandar Rotana Grand Hyatt Abu Dhabi Hotel and Residences Emirates Pearl Hilton Riyadh Hotel & Residences Marriott Riyadh Diplomatic Quarter Radisson Blu Hotel, Dubai Canal View

BEST BUSINESS HOTEL IN DUBAI

Four Seasons Hotel Dubai International Financial Centre InterContinental Dubai Marina Jumeirah at Emirates Towers Radisson Blu Hotel, Dubai Canal View The Ritz-Carlton, Dubai International Financial Centre

BEST BUSINESS HOTEL IN ABU DHABI

Fairmont Bab Al Bahr Grand Hyatt Abu Dhabi Hotel and Residences Emirates Pearl InterContinental Abu Dhabi Jumeirah at Etihad Towers Marriott Hotel Downtown Abu Dhabi

BEST BUSINESS HOTEL IN SHARJAH & NORTHERN EMIRATES Centro Sharjah by Rotana InterContinental Fujairah Resort Radisson Blu Hotel, Ajman Sheraton Sharjah Beach Resort & Spa Waldorf Astoria Ras Al Khaimah

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Ras Al Khaimah 16

OCTOBER 2020

24 HOURS IN . . .

T

From history to hiking, a quick visit to RAK promises business travellers welcome surprises around every corner

LEFT: Jebel Jais Flight, the world’s longest zipline TOP RIGHT: Suwaidi Pearl Farm BOTTOM RIGHT: Maison Mathis, Al Hamra Golf Club

here’s so much to see and do in Ras Al Khaimah, the destination is worthy of at least a week’s trip to do it justice. However, if you’re visiting for work or a business event and only have a few hours – or a day – to spare, there are plenty of attractions that promise an unforgettable experience.

In a nutshell, Ras Al Khaimah – or ‘RAK’ as it’s affectionately known

by UAE nationals and expats alike – is the gateway to 7,000 years of fascinating history, Emirati culture, magnificent landscapes, pristine beaches, lush mangroves, terracotta desert, green oases and much more.

Let’s not forget the dramatic Hajar mountains featuring the country’s highest mountain peak – Jebel Jais – where adrenaline-fuelled adventures such as hiking, trekking, cycling and ziplining await.

Drop into RAK for the day and you could find yourself 1,934 metres above sea level at Jebel Jais peak. If that’s not your bag, the emirate’s cultural, leisure and dining experiences are just as thrilling. Here are our top picks for a 24-hour visit.

Breakfast with a view

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Start your day with breakfast at Maison Mathis (mm-alhamra.com), a popular restaurant located at the Al Hamra Golf Club. Elegant yet relaxed, Maison Mathis promises a European dining experience overlooking the golf course. From eggs cooked just how you like them, to fresh bakery items, you can fuel up in anticipation of the day’s activities.

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Step back in time at Suwaidi Pearl Farm

After breakfast, make the Suwaidi Pearl Farm (suwaidipearls.ae) your next port of call. The region’s first cultured pearl farm is the place to learn about the rich pearling history of the UAE. Guests can hop on a traditional pearling boat to the floating cultured farm, which spans 4,000 square metres at the base of the Hajar Mountains. The guided tour provides insight into the pearl cultivation and harvesting process, starting with the history of pearling and the evolution of the industry over the years to modern-day times.

Drop into RAK for the day and you could find yourself 1,934 metres above sea level at Jebel Jais

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24 HOURS IN . . .

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Lunch like the locals

For lunch, visit the Al Fanar Restaurant (alfanarrestaurant.com) to explore Emirati cuisine at its finest.

A venue where modern and traditional décor blend seamlessly, rooms are decorated to reflect a majlis – the most welcoming space in an Emirati home.

Experience true Arabian culture and sample traditional dishes, from authentic mixed grills to the UAE’s favourite sweet treat, Luqaimat. You can then make your way to Ashuk Ice Cream – one of the oldest ice-cream pit stops in the emirate, located on Old Corniche Road.

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ABOVE: Souk shopping is a must BELOW: Dhaya Fort

The old market on the coast attracts people from all over the country and beyond. Trawl through the stalls and stores for locally made souvenirs, from handwoven fabrics and traditional perfumes (oud) to jewellery, leather shoes, fresh vegetables and much more.

Souk shop

After a satisfying lunch, head to one of the emirate’s popular souqs (markets) for some retail therapy.

OCTOBER 2020

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Discover the UAE’s only hilltop fort

Don’t miss the chance to stop at the most visited archaeological attraction in Ras Al Khaimah, Dhaya Fort, which is also a prime example of heritage site conservation in the emirate. Built during the 19th century on the foundations of much older structures, it is the only hilltop fort still existing in the UAE today and offers a fantastic view of the lush palm gardens, the Arabian Sea and the dramatic Hajar mountain ranges.

If you still have time to spare, pop into one of RAK’s many date farms where you can learn about the date cultivation and harvesting process, as well as the steps taken to produce date syrup and the traditional tools used to extract it.

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Reach for the peak

End your afternoon on a high note at Jais Adventure Peak (visitjebeljais.com), the gateway to multiple exhilarating attractions. They include the Jebel Jais Viewing Deck Park where seven viewing decks reveal stunning 360-degree vistas of the spectacular Hajar Mountains and the Jebel Jais Flight, the world’s longest zipline. Other options include the Jais Sky Tour, comprising seven ziplines and a 15-metre-long sky bridge and the recently opened Jais Sky Maze, a suspended obstacle course where a series of rope swings, wobbly bridges, swinging loops and more test your physical and mental strength. When the fun is over, tuck into some sunset

Finish your day with camping at Wadi Showka, a popular trail on the fringes of the Hajar Mountains

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ABOVE: Camp under the stars

7 snacks and drinks at Puro Café and Terrace.

Our top tip: handy e-bikes make it easy to get around the adventure park with great views of the mountain range to be had along the way.

Spend a night under the stars

Finish your day with camping at Wadi Showka, a popular trail on the fringes of the Hajar Mountains range that’s a big hit with hikers, runners and cyclists, as well as campers wanting to escape the city buzz. If you prefer a more glamorous desert and star-

gazing experience, book a night at The Ritz-Carlton, Al Wadi Desert resort (ritzcarlton.com) where astronomy experts are on hand to help you navigate the night sky.

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Need to know

Ras Al Khaimah is home to industry-leading hotels – from ultra-luxurious beach resorts managed by well-known hospitality brands to city and beach properties that are business and family friendly. There are multiple ways to get around the emirate with ride-hailing firms such as Careem providing, safe, reliable and smart transport services to RAK’s hotels and attractions. For more information: visitrasalkhaimah.com OCTOBER 2020

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WORDS GEMMA GREENWOOD

OCTOBER 2020

NORMALISATION

THE NEW

WITH BILATERAL AGREEMENTS BETWEEN ISRAEL AND BOTH THE UAE AND BAHRAIN FRESHLY INKED, REGIONAL TRAVEL AND TRADE WILL BENEFIT EXPONENTIALLY

W

hen news that Israel and the United Arab Emirates (UAE) had reached a deal to normalise relations hit the global headlines on August 13, it took most people by complete surprise.

Considering the immensely complex history between the two nations and given that up until that point, Israel had no diplomatic relations with any Gulf Arab countries whatsoever, few had anticipated this course of action.

US President Donald Trump who brokered and announced the deal between Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu and His Highness Mohammed bin Zayed Al Nahyan, the Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi, described it as “a truly historic moment”. After all, it represents only the third Israel-Arab peace deal forged since Israel’s Declaration of Independence in 1948, after Egypt and Jordan.

“Now that the ice has been broken I expect more Arab and Muslim countries will follow the United Arab Emirates,” Trump told the media.

He wasn’t wrong, Bahrain was quick to follow suit by normalising relations with Israel too.

OCTOBER 2020

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PORIA: DANI MACHLIS

and online communications; forging partnerships for Coronavirus research; and staging discussions regarding intelligence and national security, as well as food and water security.

Two higher education bodies have agreed to work together on artificial intelligence and Dubai’s largest bank by assets, Emirates NBD, has signed an MoU with Israel’s Bank Hapoalim, Both deals (the Abraham Accords) were signed at the White House on September 15, with leaders from all three countries taking a historic step, not only towards economic cooperation, but what many hope will be peace in the Middle East.

Israel’s Minister of Regional Co-operation, Ofir Akunis, told the Financial Times the accords would pave the way for bilateral trade and investments reaching “billions of dollars for each side”.

He even quoted US$500 million as an initial figure for the value of deals set to be clinched, citing Israel’s expertise in water desalination and agricultural technology as two of the most promising sectors for co-operation.

OCTOBER 2020

“We want bilateral economic relationships with the UAE and Bahrain to build a new Middle East”

Professor Yaniv Poria, Chairman, Department of Hotel and Tourism Management, Ben Gurion University of the Negev

“[But] the main idea here is peace to prosperity,” Mr Akunis told the London publication. “We want bilateral economic relationships with the UAE and Bahrain to build a new Middle East.”

Since the accords were announced and subsequently signed, the UAE and Israel have made remarkable progress, with milestones between the two including: opening telephone

enabling Israelis to transact directly with the UAE. At time of press, Israeli and Dubai diamond exchanges had also just signed a trade agreement.

Strategies for linking infrastructure are also on the table with Akunis hinting that if Saudi Arabia were to normalise relations with Israel it would present opportunities to integrate the Jewish state into a huge Middle East rail network. If plans came to fruition,

LEFT: Israelis will appreciate Ras Al Khaimah’s adventure pursuits OPPOSITE PAGE: The UAE’s shopping experience appeals

for hotels to serve kosher food”, and although most speak good English, and some, Arabic, they will also appreciate menus in Hebrew, he notes.

Is there a need for Hebrew-speaking guides in the UAE? Poria says no, but learning a few words of Hebrew won’t harm to “show empathy”.

“People from Israel will also try to speak Arabic when visiting out of respect to the local people,” he adds.

BIG-SCREEN POTENTIAL

the railroad would link the port of Haifa in Israel with the UAE and Bahrain, via Saudi and Jordan.

This would usher a new era of economic prosperity for the region and “bring billions of dollars to us all”, he says.

Other industries set to benefit from cooperation range from oil and gas to education and healthcare, to name a few, but perhaps one of the biggest benefactors is the travel and tourism sector.

The tourism potential

According to Professor Yaniv Poria, Chairman of the Department of Hotel and Tourism Management at Ben-Gurion University of the Negev in Israel, who spoke exclusively to Business Traveller Middle East last month in his first ever interview with a Gulf-based publication, Israelis cannot wait to travel to the UAE, which they deem aspirational and exotic.

“Israelis love to travel and explore new places; they are interested in new destinations and they have never had to the chance to visit the UAE, which can offer them a great vacation

and value for money,” he says. Israeli media is already anticipating that holiday package prices to destinations including Dubai and Abu Dhabi will be 40 per cent cheaper than to domestic hotspots like Eilat on the Red Sea, he reveals.

“And based on what we have seen [in the media], the shopping [in the UAE] is brilliant and not as expensive as it is here, so we will be able to shop, a lot.”

Poria says Israelis are also “fascinated” by Arabian cuisine and culture and favour adventure holidays, so desert safaris and Ras Al Khaimah’s outdoor pursuits, including the world’s longest zipline, could be drawcards.

Some travellers might also be curious to find out more about the way of life for Jewish people living in the UAE, Poria suggests.

“When Jewish people travel around the world, whether they are religious or not, they look to find a synagogue.

Israelis will be interested to see how Jewish people living in the UAE pray,” he explains.

When it comes to food, while Israelis are “inquisitive and open minded” when they travel, “it will be beneficial

As Business Traveller Middle East went to press, The Abu Dhabi Film Commission (ADFC), the Israel Film Fund (IFF) and the Jerusalem Sam Spiegel Film & Television School (JSFS) announced they had signed a cooperation agreement. In a groundbreaking move, the film commissions will work to create content that aims to promote tolerance and education and develop a deeper cultural understanding between the Emirati and Israeli people, according to UAE state news agency WAM. The agreement also specifies plans to stage a regional film festival showcasing Emirati and Israeli productions and co-productions, which will rotate annually between Abu Dhabi and Israel. In addition, training programmes will be developed for filmmakers from both countries with the aim of developing and producing Abu Dhabi-Israel film and TV co-productions.

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Kosher ready

The UAE travel industry, which is more adept than most at catering to frontier source markets, is already preparing for a boom in Israeli visitors.

Last month the Department of Culture and Tourism – Abu Dhabi (DCT Abu Dhabi) issued a circular to all hotels instructing them to seek kosher certification for handling kosher meals. General managers were also asked to designate an area of all hotel kitchens for kosher food preparation.

In neighbouring Dubai, the UAE’s first kosher restaurant, Armani/Kaf, has already opened its doors at Burj Khalifa’s Armani Hotel Dubai, with all food certified by the only UAEbased kosher certifier, the Emirates Kosher Supervising Agency. Cuisine served at Armani/Kaf, which is a 40-seater pop-up restaurant on the ground floor of the luxury hotel, complies with Jewish dietary laws (kashrut) and menu staples range from Italian dishes like spaghetti

“We all hope to see Etihad launching a direct flight from Abu Dhabi to Tel Aviv, but this might take more time ” 24

OCTOBER 2020

BELOW: Armani Hotel Dubai is offering kosher room service meals

Bolognese to Middle East favourites such as hummus and baba ganoush.

Guests staying at the property, located in the world’s tallest building, can order kosher food from room service too.

Dubai-based Al Habtoor Group is also planning to introduce kosher food at its UAE hotels after forming a partnership with Elli’s Kosher Kitchen (EKK), which was founded by resident kosher chef Ellie Kriel last year.

Hilton Dubai, V Hotel, Habtoor Palace Dubai, LXR Hotel and Resorts, Habtoor Grand Resort, Autograph Collection LLC, Metropolitan Hotel and Habtoor Polo Resort will be among those serving kosher meals, all of which will be packaged and sealed with an OU Kosher Certification (Orthodox United) stamp.

SPECIAL REPORT

Airlines are making preparations too, with Emirates’ catering supplier, Emirates Flight Catering (EKFC) recently announcing plans to set up a dedicated kosher food-production facility in the UAE. The venture, named ‘Kosher Arabia’, is mooted to begin production by January 2021 and is certified by the Kashrut Division of the Orthodox Union (OU).

Emirates already offers kosher meals on board its flights, but these are currently produced by a thirdparty supply.

Although no announcement had been made regarding Emirates launching services to the Israeli capital Tel Aviv at time of press, the carrier is expected to do so in the future, with Kosher Arabia providing kosher meals on those flights, as well as onward services flown by those passengers.

An Emirates spokesperson told Business Traveller Middle East: “The operation of any route requires air traffic rights and government approvals. Once those are in place, Emirates will review market demand and a range of operational factors before making any decision to start flight services. With regards to new destinations, we have nothing further to announce at this time.”

“The main idea here is peace to prosperity”

ABOVE: El Al arrives at Abu Dhabi International Airport for the first time LEFT: Menu staples at the UAE’s first kosher restaurant, Armani/Kaf

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Air time

Etihad Airways started courting the Israeli market last month, selling air tickets in the country for the first time through local General Sales Agent (GSA) TAL Aviation Group.

The partnership comes in response to “an increase in demand for travel between the two countries” following Abu Dhabi’s resumption of services post-lockdown and the announcement of the Abraham Accord.

Shuki Fishler, Sales Manager for TAL Aviation Group in Israel, says customers are keen to enjoy Etihad’s superior flight experience and are currently travelling to Abu Dhabi via Athens with Greek airline Aegean or via Amman with Royal Jordanian to transfer to onward flights operated by the UAE flag carrier.

“We all hope to see Etihad launching a direct flight from Abu Dhabi to Tel Aviv, but this might take more time and is not expected in the near future,” she says.

As part of the UAE’s humanitarian programme to fight COVID-19, Etihad Airways is operating dedicated humanitarian cargo flights from Abu Dhabi to Tel OCTOBER 2020

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Aviv to transport medical supplies bound for the Palestinian Territories.

“Etihad is the first commercial airline from the Gulf to have landed in Israel and welcomes the opportunity to explore operations between the two cities once a bilateral Air Services Agreement (ASA) is established and regulatory approvals have been obtained,” says an Etihad spokesperson.

“The result of a new bilateral ASA will not only lead to cooperation across various industries, but to stronger economic ties.”

Poria believes Israelis will prefer to travel with the likes of Etihad and Emirates because “they have a reputation for great service”.

“If they are cheaper than local airline and the service is better, they will not hesitate to fly with them and will also embrace it as part of the Arabian experience,” he adds.

OCTOBER 2020

Meanwhile, Israeli airline Israir has applied for permission to operate commercial passenger flights from Tel Aviv’s Ben Gurion Airport (TLV) to Dubai International, according to Reuters.

The carrier’s ideal scenario is to operate eight round trips between the two should approvals be granted.

When travellers do start flocking to the UAE from Israel, Turkey, a perennial favourite with Israeli vacationers, could lose out as a result, according to Poria.

Turkish company Rixos, known for its all-inclusive all-exclusive resorts, is taking the positives from this scenario by leveraging its brand strength. The group is already wooing Israeli travel

LEFT AND BELOW: Travellers from Israel will appreciate the ‘Arabian’ experience the UAE airlines offer, says Poria

agencies with “luxurious packages” at its UAE properties including Rixos Bab Al Bahr in Ras Al Khaimah, Rixos Premium Saadiayt Island in Abu Dhabi, Rixos Premium Dubai in Jumeirah Beach Residences and Rixos the Palm Dubai Hotel & Suites on the iconic Palm Jumeirah.

The normalisation of relations between Israel and the UAE marks a “new chapter for Rixos hotels”, says Ali Ozbay, Vice President of Marketing & Communications for Rixos UAE. “We look forward to welcoming Israeli guests at our four beachfront resorts, having them enjoy the hospitality and all-inclusive concept – the first of its kind in the UAE,” he adds.

While most major hotel groups

SPECIAL REPORT

LEFT: Etihad tickets are now on sale in Israel BELOW: Rixos is wooing Israelis with holiday packages at its UAE properties

are remaining tight-lipped about their plans to cater to Israelis in the UAE and residents of Bahrain and the UAE in Israel, niche accommodation providers are already laying the groundwork. For example, Swiss-based property management company, Smiling House Luxury, part of the IBC Group, is collaborating with UAE-based holiday home rental agency, Gallery Suites, to promote cross-border tourism between the UAE and Israel. Gallery Suites operates more than 5,000 curated luxury holiday homes including suites,

apartments, penthouses, villas and hotel apartments in prime locations such as Dubai Marina, Jumeirah Lake Towers, Palm Jumeirah, Downtown and Business Bay and IBC Group chairman Khurram Shroff has told media the company will provide special amenities and services for Orthodox Jews, including kosher food.

“We are especially keen to showcase the UAE’s renowned hospitality by offering holiday homes that are strictly compliant with kosher guidelines for those of our guests that request such facilities,” he says.

“We look forward to welcoming Israeli guests at our four beachfront resorts”

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OCTOBER 2020

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Beyond economic euphoria

One of the prime reasons Israelis will travel to the Gulf and citizens and residents of both the UAE and Bahrain will travel to Israel, is to seek investment, commercial collaboration and knowledge exchange, says Poria.

With “economic euphoria” currently being experienced by all three parties following the signing of the accords, the opportunities for trade and business are already flooding in, he notes.

Israel, known for its “spirit of innovation”, has much to offer the Gulf States he continues, citing “innovation in the desert, from agriculture to energy” and “hightech companies specialising in travel technology and medicine”, as prime examples. “There are many synergies and great potential for cooperation OCTOBER 2020

“For innovation, Tel Aviv is the place to be”

ABOVE: Tel Aviv is a hub for innovation

and I can imagine Israelis travelling to the UAE to present their innovations to seek investment,” he says.

“For innovation, Tel Aviv is the place to be; it’s a great place to do business and a fascinating city.

“I think they (Emiratis and Bahrainis) will enjoy visiting a Jewish secular metropolis.”

Health tourism will also boom, he adds, with Emiratis travelling to Israel for treatment and Israeli doctors being invited to the UAE to work in the country’s “world-class hospitals”.

Poria also suggests students from the UAE and Bahrain will study at Israel’s universities, with an emphasis on “learning how to innovate”.

He hopes this “cross-cultural exchange” between young people will deliver many long-lasting benefits, including “cooperation that will lead to real peace”.

In this respect, Poria echoes the sentiments of the UAE’s Chief Rabbi, Yehuda Sarna, who stresses that while some say the Abraham Accord between Israel and the UAE is for political and financial gain only, “the truth is that this agreement is really about forging a shared future and kickstarting a cultural renaissance”.

He believes normalisation of the relationship “is an opening of the door to the better place”.

A D V E R T I S E M E N T F E AT U R E

Crowne Plaza Dubai Marina A NEW UPSCALE WATERFRONT BUSINESS DESTINATION

A

destination hotel designed to suit the modern traveller, Crowne Plaza Dubai Marina is located in one of the city’s most sought-after districts and offers extensive business, dining and leisure facilities. Adjacent to Dubai Marina Mall, within walking distance of The Beach, JBR and just a short drive from business hubs including Jumeirah Lakes Towers (JLT), Media City and Internet City, the property promises comfort and convenience in the heart of Dubai.

Guests can seamlessly blend business and leisure experiences under one roof, with facilities ranging from six dining outlets, a fitness centre open 24 hours a day and an outdoor swimming pool, to meeting and events spaces featuring state-of-the-art technology.

STYLE, SPACE, SLUMBER There are 273 stylish rooms and suites with modern design that promise a combination of comfort, connectivity and flexibility. Each has distinct zones that maximise space, lighting for work

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: King Bed Marina View room; All-day dining venue Lo+Cale; Crowne Plaza Dubai Marina is conveniently located

and relaxation, a Sleep Advantage® programme and a wake-up service.

The 32 suites range in size from 35 sqm to 93 sqm, all with balconies boasting Dubai Marina views, while the 61 Club Rooms redefine luxury with a new level of service tailored to each guest’s individual preferences: they can make a restaurant reservation while being chauffeur-driven from the airport; enjoy personalised check-in and check-out services; and savour dishes and drinks in the spacious Club Lounge and terrace.

FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD With six exquisite culinary offerings, Crowne Plaza Dubai Marina is a foodie haven. Options include: • Lo+Cale: this all-day dining restaurant serves an array of sumptuous international cuisines with theatrical flair and live cooking stations add to the drama; • Connexions: the hotel’s lobby lounge is the perfect place to enjoy a coffee with a choice of grab n’ go food. With well-lit with floor-to-ceiling windows, it also provides a relaxed space for meetings;

• Hive: this lobby bar is a stylish venue where guests can unwind while sipping on a variety of exciting concoctions; • Nara: the outdoor shisha lounge bar oozes Arabic flair and charm. The spacious terrace is the perfect location to soak up the thriving buzz of the marina while admiring breathtaking waterfront and city views; • Aqua Marina: the pool bar provides small bites and refreshing cocktails and is the place to refresh and unwind throughout the day; • Charm Thai: this signature restaurant specialises in high-end Thai street food and creative drinks. The venue features a private dining space with an al fresco terrace, treating guests to an expansive view of the Dubai Marina waterfront.

MEET AND GREET An exceptional location for meetings and events, the hotel boasts a 460 sqm ballroom and a selection of meeting rooms equipped with the state-of-theart conference amenities. The exquisite conference rooms, located on the first floor, are beautifully lit with natural daylight and can accommodate up to 200 guests, creating an ideal space for corporate and social gatherings.

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WORDS: MEL ANIE SWAN AND GEMMA GREENWOOD

A

s companies get back to some form of normality and many employees return to the office, at least part time, the region’s popular business lunch is back on the menu. Crucial to the business day, lunches are where deals are sealed, new contacts made, cultures shared and relationships developed. While movement around some cities remains restricted and some restaurants are closed, many venues have reopened their doors and are playing a key role in bringing the regional business community back together. From the Gulf to the Levante, Business Traveller Middle East has rounded up a selection of restaurants where you can enjoy a satisfying, if socially distanced, business lunch.

OCTOBER 2020

BUSINESS LUNCHES

BUSINESS BITES A TASTER OF THE REGION’S BEST BUSINESS LUNCHES AND BRUNCHES

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OCTOBER 2020

Dubai

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Zuma, Dubai International Financial Centre Japanese restaurant Zuma has made its name as the king of the crowd when it comes to Dubai’s restaurant scene. Its lunches and brunches are so popular, it’s tricky to book, even more so now that social distancing measures are in place. It’s hard to believe there is a financial crisis when you arrive to the hustle and bustle of ‘business as usual’ at Zuma. It’s also easy to forget there is a pandemic. The place is buzzing, one of the benefits of the current climate when fewer people are travelling.

The trendy space, located in Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC), the city’s Central Business District (CBD), not only serves up a vibe you might expect from hubs like London’s Canary Wharf, but exceptional food and service, plus the ebisu business lunch is excellent value.

First up is a traditional miso soup to whet the appetite, followed by a OCTOBER 2020

choice of two starters and one main, all for AED 137 (US$37). You can also opt for the express option of miso soup and a main for AED 76 ($20).

The prawn and black cod gyoza or spinach salad are perennial favourites to start and the grilled Australian wagyu ribeye with truffle sauce a must for mains. Other tantalising treats include seared salmon with lime shiso soy to start and the melt-in-themouth black cod for main.

WHEN? Sunday to Thursday 12 noon – 2.00pm HOW MUCH? AED 137 per person WHERE? Gate Village 06, Podium Level – Al Mustaqbal St – Dubai CALL +971 (0)4 425 5660 VISIT zumarestaurant.com/ locations/dubai

Japanese restaurant Zuma has made its name as king of the crowd

BUSINESS LUNCHES

La Cantine Du Faubourg La Cantine du Faubourg promises a slice of Paris in the heart of Dubai.

The original La Cantine, which opened in the French capital more than a decade ago on its fashion avenue, Rue du Faubourg SaintHonoré, quickly gained notoriety as one of the City of Lights’ most coveted addresses for a hip lunch, after-work drinks, dining and entertainment. As you’d expect, the Dubai venue, located in Emirates Towers, has followed suit, and is considered one of ‘the’ places to business lunch, with dishes celebrating La Cantine du Faubourg’s heritage and more than a soupçon of international flavour.

Business lunch favourites include Charentais melon gazpacho to start, roasted grouper with eggplant confit and sweet and sour salsa for main and chocolate caramel mousse with raspberries and vanilla ice cream for

dessert, but get in quick to sample these because the menu changes every two weeks.

Each dish is the work of renowned chef Gilles Bosquet, whose business lunch menu reimagines Parisian cuisine in an inimitable style. A starter and main are priced AED 110 ($29.30) and you can add a dessert for just AED 20 ($5.36) plus a glass of ‘grape of the week’ for AED 40 ($10.72).

La Cantine du Faubourg is also a great venue for a corporate event, with packages available that can

be customised to suit high-profile meetings, conferences, dinners and receptions and that include tailormade menus and special touches including lighting, entertainment and live music.

WHEN? 12 noon onwards HOW MUCH? From AED 110 ($29.50)

WHERE? 105 Emirates Towers Hotel, 1st floor, Sheikh Zayed Road

CALL +971 (0)4 3527 105 VISIT lacatine.ae EMAIL book@lacantine.ae

Pranzo If you’re working in Barsha Heights and want to pop out for a satisfying business lunch with clients or colleagues, check into all-day Mediterranean dining venue Pranzo at TIME Oak Hotel & Suites, which has launched a value-for-money business lunch priced just AED 65 ($17.40).

Grab a hearty soup and freshly baked bread to start, and then choose from a selection of seven different salads, seven mains, including a homemade pizza and if you still have room, seven different deserts. Even better, the menu is rotated, so you can go back again and again and try something new. As another added bonus, Pranzo,

as well as TIME Oak’s Arabic-themed lounge Al Bal, are offering a halfprice deal on Thursdays to kick off the weekend. Spend just AED 100 ($26.80) and you’ll get 50 per cent off your bill.

WHEN? 12.30 to 3.30pm HOW MUCH? AED 65 ($17.40) WHERE? TIME Oak Hotel & Suites, Abdulla Omran Tayram St, Al Thanyah 1, Barsha Heights CALL +971 (4) 437 7888 VISIT timehotels.ae/time-oakhotel-suites

OCTOBER 2020

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BUSINESS LUNCHES

Saudi Arabia Pesto, Fairmont Riyadh

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Coya, Four Seasons Hotel Abu Dhabi Part of the uber trendy COYA chain, the Abu Dhabi sibling is now firmly rooted on the city’s list of power restaurants, alongside the likes of Zuma, Koi and Hakkassan.

In spite of the ‘new norm’ where sleek-looking staff are now mask adorned, the waterside restaurant, located at the fashionable hotspot, Al Maryah Island, remains vibrant and much sought-after, following in the footsteps of its buzzing Dubai

Abu Dhabi OCTOBER 2020

WHEN? 12 noon – 3.00pm weekdays HOW MUCH? AED 110 ($29.50) WHERE? Four Seasons Hotel, Al Maryah Island, Abu Dhabi CALL +971 (0)2 306 7000 EMAIL reservations.ad@ coyarestaurant.ae VISIT coyarestaurant.com

predecessor where even a business lunch feels like a special treat.

The spacious and colourful Peruvian restaurant, which boasts views across the capital, promises a fusion of flavours. Lunchers can enjoy two appetisers and one main for the AED 110 ($29.50) package, which has become a favourite on the Abu Dhabi business circuit. Latin-inspired dishes include Croquetas de Lubina (Chilean sea bass croquettes, red chilli) to start and the ever-popular Costillas de Res (Spicy beef ribs, crispy shallots and garlic) for the main.

For those looking for a lunchtime tipple, mocktails such as Que Pina (homemade lemon cordial, sage, pineapple, fresh basil and soda water) for AED 30 ($8) are a must-try.

Saudi Arabia is a commercial hub behemoth and part and parcel of doing business in this oil-rich nation is a long lunch to build relationships face to face. One of three popular business lunch venues at Fairmont Riyadh is Pesto, favoured for its homely atmosphere and traditional Italian setting.

With patterned floors and wooden walls, this venue blends modern décor with rustic charm and there is plenty of space for social distancing – in fact the venue’s individual dining cubes are just perfect in this respect.

The three-course business lunch menu is also bursting with traditional southern Italian flavours, including Sicilian seared salmon, minestrone soup and rich and creamy tiramisu to finish.

Bay View Restaurant, Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay WHEN? 12 noon – 5.00 pm daily except for Saturday HOW MUCH? SAR 150 ($40), including one beverage WHERE? Business Gate Qurtubah Area, Riyadh CALL +966 11 8 26 26 26 EMAIL fairmont.riyadh@fairmont. com VISIT fairmont.com/riyadh/ dining/pesto

Bahrain Bay View’s business lunch features a set menu of fresh soups and salads, light bites and desserts

With its stunning floor-to-ceiling windows revealing sweeping views across the Bahrain skyline, this is more than a restaurant; it’s an urban haven. Stunning olive trees line this spacious dining venue, where social distancing is easy. Bay View’s business lunch, ‘Taste of Bay View’, features a set menu of fresh soups and salads, light bites and desserts.

Popular entrees include coconut milk-based roast red pepper soup and delicious crispy shrimp with avocado and honey mustard dressing. Diners love the summer lemon vegetable risotto with asparagus, sugar snap peas and fresh pecorino Romano cheese, as well as the slow-baked salmon fillet, complemented by braised leek, broccoli and lemon garlic broth for mains. To finish things off with a sweet touch, the Madagascar vanilla custard cream is irresistible, as is the pink rose cheesecake with raspberry and rose petal syrup for a hint of flavours inspired by the Orient.

WHEN? 12 noon – 3.30 pm HOW MUCH? BHD 9 ($24) for two courses and BHD 11 ($29) for three WHERE? Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay, Road 4612, Building 555, Block 346, Bahrain Bay, Manama CALL +973 1711 5000 VISIT fourseasons.com/bahrain

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The perfect ‘meating’ spot, Salt is one of the city’s most popular steakhouses

This is certainly a lunch designed to impress your client, with delicacies including the finest seafood, foie gras and a unique fusion of local and international flavours. The hotel, which is already popular with corporate travellers due to its extensive meeting facilities, is offering bespoke private dining for business lunches at two venues – the cosy Urban Brasserie, where modern design meets Moroccan tradition with the added option of a terrace for al fresco dining, and Jamra, a brighter, more casual affair, where dining can be indoors or overlooking the hotel pool.

The three- and four-course packages promise a true feast and

Jordan

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Salt Steakhouse, Fairmont Amman The perfect ‘meating’ spot, Salt is one of the city’s most popular steak houses. Inspired by the best European grill houses, its wooden décor is warm, welcoming and homely. Salt’s menu includes traditional and unique cuts of meat from the finest sources, expertly cooked over a custom wood burning grill and complemented by grapes from around the world.

Menu classics not to be missed include Lobster Bisque for starters, served with Anise Espuma and baguette chips, and the Salt Burger Moment, a decadent Wagyu beef OCTOBER 2020

Mövenpick Hotel Mansour Eddahbi Marrakech

burger with truffle mayonnaise, brie cheese, caramelised onions, mushrooms and homemade pickles.

The expansive restaurant, located in the heart of the Jordanian capital, is also offering private dining experiences for guests looking to create a more exclusive environment for client meetings.

WHEN? 12.30 – 3.30pm Sunday to Thursday HOW MUCH? Two courses – JOD 18 ++ ($25); three courses – JD 21 ++ ($30) – includes house water and one soft or hot drink WHERE? 6 Beirut Street, Fifth Circle, Amman CALL +962 6 510 6000 EMAIL dining.amman@fairmont.com VISIT fairmont.com/amman

Morocco

BUSINESS LUNCHES

WHEN? 12 noon – 3.00 pm weekdays HOW MUCH? Three courses from MAD 450 ($49) per person and more decadent four-course offerings priced up to MAD 750 ($82) per person (minimum 10 people) WHERE? Boulevard Mohamed VI, Marrakech 40000 CALL +212 (0)524 33 91 00 EMAIL hotel.marrakech.sales@ movenpick.com VISIT www.movenpick.com/ marrakech

Turkey

unite land, earth and sea. The mains, including beef tenderloin served with potato terrine and foie-gras sauce and lamb and forest mushroom terrine, are sure to leave you feeling satiated, while the scrumptious ‘creamy bounty’, a chocolate and coconut jelly dessert, is unmissable, although it might not make for the most productive afternoon back at the ‘home office’.

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The Globe Restaurant, Hilton Istanbul Bomonti Hotel The highlight of this elegant and spacious restaurant has to be its terrace where guests can work and dine al fresco. A blend of cuisines, inspired by Istanbul’s location on the axis between two continents and influenced by millennia of trade with the world, The Globe offers a light, but classy take on the business lunch. Making sure visitors don’t leave with that afternoon slump feeling, offerings are fresh and healthy, and the three-course set menu includes the likes of red lentil soup served with crispy sourdough bread and parsley and Tulum cheese; mixed Mediterranean salad served with pan-fried halloumi cheese, lime and

fresh mint vinaigrette with cream, and a slightly more decadent Turkishinspired Tiramisu. With three private dining rooms available there are also options for guests to arrange more socially distanced gatherings for meetings and dining with clients.

WHEN? 12 noon – 3.00 pm weekdays HOW MUCH? €30 ($36) plus taxes WHERE? Merkez, Silahşör Cd. No:42, 34381 Şişli/İstanbul CALL +212 375 3000 EMAIL bomonti.sales@hilton.com VISIT www3.hilton.com

OCTOBER 2020

BUSINESS LUNCHES

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And for the region’s most lavish business lunch?

Private Villa Dining At Mandarin Oriental, Marrakech OCTOBER 2020

Taking social distancing and luxurious business meetings to new heights, the new private villa lunch experience at Mandarin Oriental Marrakech gives you the chance to escape the office in style and solitude. Moroccanstyle villas feature a private pool and lush gardens blooming with fruit trees – the perfect setting for a decadent dining extravaganza, with two gourmet options from which to choose. The pool garden experience offers a selection of light dishes, designed around fresh fruit and vegetables grown in the hotel’s garden, coupled with grilled seafood and light Mediterranean-inspired dishes. It’s priced €98 ($116) per person.

The Moroccan barbecue experience is a lavish and authentic affair – think Moroccan dishes, tagines, fresh salads and delicious desserts for €128 ($152) per person.

If you’d prefer an Asian-inspired lunch, the chef at signature restaurant Ling Ling will create small plates of beautifully prepared Chinese dishes for €148 ($175) per person.

When you’ve finished your feast, enjoy the hotel’s stunning location – it’s set in landscaped gardens and 20 hectares of olive groves with the Atlas Mountains as its dramatic backdrop, yet it’s just 10 minutes from the city’s Medina.

WHEN? Week days HOW MUCH? From €98 ($116) per person WHERE? Route Golf Royal, Marrakech 40000, Morocco CALL +212 5242 98888 VISIT www.mandarinoriental.com/ marrakech

POSTCARD

RWANDA

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Ca l l of t he w i ld With The Republic of Rwanda lifting its travel advisory in September and scheduled commercial flights now operating to the destination, it’s game on for gorilla viewing at its finest.

The aptly named One&Only Gorilla’s Nest, which reopened its doors on September 1, is offering guests an exclusive front-row seat to observe endangered mountain gorillas in the wild.

This one-of-a-kind resort is nestled in the foothills of the breathtaking Virunga volcano range, part of Volcanoes National Park. Home to the highest number of mountain gorillas in the world, as well as five dormant

volcanoes, the park is categorised as a rainforest because of its montane ecosystem. Guests can stay in one of 21 “jungle-chic” havens – private sanctuaries on stilts and surrounded by Eucalyptus trees, all with private decks and some with outdoor bathtubs in the trees.

Of course, gorilla trekking is the bucket list activity on the agenda, but hiking to spot golden monkeys in the jungle canopy, as well as birdwatching and nature trails are all part of the appeal.

More sedate outdoor experiences range from yoga and private dining to movie screenings under the stars. oneandonlyresorts.com/gorillas-nest

OCTOBER 2020

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W O R D S G R E TC H E N K E L LY

OCTOBER 2020

ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

Will artificial intelligence and virtual reality spell the end of the hotel concierge?

SPECIAL REPORT

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ot so long ago, when you checked into a hotel, you could ask to see the concierge to help with plans like theatre tickets, to find out the hottest new restaurant in town and to get directions to the local museums and sites of interest. This individual – who, at the better establishments, often sported a golden lapel pin with two crossed keys – would take out a sheaf of maps and make notes for you. On your return from a night at the theatre, you’d see the same friendly face who would ask if you liked the show.

Today, particularly in smaller hotels, that friendly helper is more likely to pop up on your phone as he/she does at The Arrive Hotel in Memphis. “Hi ya’ll,” says the text message (laying on the Southern charm thick). “Please text us if you need directions or anything else. We’ll be glad to help.”

The Arrive Hotel is not the only property using virtual technology to substitute or to supplement the full-time job of “concierge.”

Courtyard by Marriott, for instance, uses an interactive GoBoard, an in-lobby LCD touchscreen where guests can search news, weather, restaurants, flights and other details. Marriott’s Renaissance brand uses its proprietary Navigator technology to help guests find their way around town or do a deep dive experiential journey, with a database culled from the opinions of local experts.

If guests want a one-on-one experience, a human “Hi “navigator” can help, too.

LEFT: real-time assistance with Customer Connect for Bebot 41

service to all of its locations globally and says the programme is already a draw in attracting new booking guests. According to the company, guests who use the Aces programme are 34 per cent more likely to book again in 90 days.

The rise of personal technology and apps like Aces is a challenge for both hotel chains and independent properties that rely on the personal touch to differentiate themselves. As a consequence, these hotels are upping their game in what is offered through good old fashioned human skills and connectivity in order to compete and distinguish their services from those offered by apps and bots.

Hotel Indigo, for instance, on the Lower East Side in New York City, has a graffiti concierge. Christian Riberio, a graffiti artist, will answer questions about local graffiti and help guests create a customised map so they can explore local street art created by both native and international artists.

Le Richemond in Geneva (the world’s high-end watchmaking capital) has a watch concierge service where guests create a watch wish list and the concierge then connects them to VIP visits at makers like Vacheron Constantin, Roger Dubuis and Franck Muller.

ya’ll,” says the text message (laying on the Southern charm thick). “Please text us if you need directions.”

Let’s Chat Burgeoning chatbot technology that lets artificial intelligence talk back and interact with customers has led to the creation of a new concierge programme called Bebot, a chatbot that acts as a hotel concierge.

Its inventors, Bespoke Inc., say the programme “is designed to empower guests through instant, realtime assistance such as exclusive recommendations for both popular and little-known sites in the area, answering questions only hotel staff would know about, or even making restaurant bookings”. Bebop is in use in several hotels in Japan, but is making its way to other markets, including the US soon.

In 2016, Hilton partnered with IBM to create Connie, the resident robot at its McLean, VA, property.

Connie (named after Hilton’s founder, Conrad) talks to guests about nearby attractions, places to eat and offers other ideas on guest experiences. Concierge apps designed for direct-to-consumer use are also using bot technology and other technological advances. Bellhop is one; this New York-based concierge app offers tours, activities, deliveries and connections with Uber and Resy.

Aces is HotelTonight’s consumer chat concierge service, available to guests who pay more than $200 for a hotel stay on its booking platform at any of its properties in more than 30 cities. It is staffed by real humans who do what concierges have always done. HotelTonight plans to roll out the Aces

BEYOND THE ORDINARY But the demand for something special in a concierge is not limited to hotel-generated services or app creators and booking platforms. Along with the rise of bots, do-itOCTOBER 2020

SPECIAL REPORT

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yourself apps and one-off concierge support, These days, in much the same way as airlines are now Outside luxury the outside luxury concierge is a growing sector. depending on customers bringing their own phones concierge services These specialists are set up to do what a hotel and pads for entertainment, guests come to hotels with does, only better – and very, very exclusively. their own technology. Consequently the full-time, are set up to do what Pure Entertainment Group, based in full-service human concierge that used to inhabit a hotel does, only Montreal, focuses on bespoke travel packages, every lobby seems an ever more endangered species. bucket-list experiences and personal concierge But at the same time, the commonplaceness of better – and very, services. Membership costs from $12,000 to having apps and bots at our fingertips makes the very exclusively $35,000 a year. Billionaire Concierge is an friendly service of a human concierge seem even ultra-luxury concierge service that is invitationmore like a high-end luxury. And because of the extra only. Members can access rare watches and service having a ‘real’ concierge implies, it’s unlikely jewellery, private reservations for exclusive venues and that five-star hotels like The Four Seasons, Fairmont, personal dinners with celebrity chefs. Quintessentially, Park Hyatt and others will be saying farewell anytime one of the world’s best known high-end concierge soon to their much-loved bastions in the art of taking programmes, has more than 60 offices around care of guests’ every need. BT the world and 1,500-plus concierge specialists. Its average client net worth exceeds $36 million.

Insignia, founded in the late 1990s, is also an invitation-only service for high net worth individuals (HNWIs), which not only offers special services in hotels, restaurants and experiences, but also has private jet services, helicopters to the airport (where your private jet is waiting, of course) and connections to exclusive entertainment venues and sporting events that only the one per cent get to experience. This is handholding with kid gloves.

Is the old-fashioned, key-emblazoned jack-of-all-trades hotel-lobby-dwelling concierge a thing of the past?

Close to 10 years ago newer hotel brands like the Andaz moved these old-school players to the far corners of the LEFT: Q Insider from field, rendering them no longer as visible as they used to Quintessentially; be. They were still there but customers were encouraged to BELOW: Marriott 360 Stories use available technology to source their needs first.

OCTOBER 2020

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D E S T I N AT I O N S WORDS HANNAH BRANDLER

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OCTOBER 2020

D E S T I N AT I O N S

L I T T L E I TA LY The lesser-known north-eastern region of Friuli Venezia Giulia boasts unspoiled vistas and sail-friendly waters

E PICTURED: The region’s rocky coastline overlooks the Gulf of Trieste

ach time we rounded a blind corner on the Strada Costiera – the spectacular coastal road that winds around the Gulf of Trieste, where sharp cliffs drop into the turquoise waters of the Adriatic Sea – our driver would sound his horn three times. “For good luck”, he told us; a tradition of the Triestini community in this north-eastern enclave of Italy.

Little did we know, as we took in the vista, that just a few months later, that luck would run out. Initially the European epicentre of COVID-19, Italy has seen more than 35,000 deaths, though the highest number of cases were located in the northern region of Lombardy, miles from Trieste. Following a strict early lockdown and subsequent contact-tracing and safety measures, the country has bounced back, opening up in May and, at the time of writing, witnessing a low rate of new infections.

Tourism will be crucial to its economic recovery, and it is hoped that autumn will replace the lost summer of 2020.

The autonomous region of Friuli Venezia Giulia, in which Trieste is nestled, is also planning to tempt visitors back – and, in that, it will be aided by its picturesque setting and rich cultural heritage. Describing this cosmopolitan area merely as Italian would be doing it a disservice. Bordered by Austria to the north, Slovenia to the east and Italy’s Veneto region to the west, it is steeped in the traditions of its neighbours. Trieste, as its capital, has been fought over for centuries – once part of the Habsburg Empire, it was handed to Italy in 1918, subsequently occupied by Germany during the Second World War and then divided between Britain, the US and Yugoslavia before returning to the Italians in 1954. Today, the region is a melting pot of nationalities, reflected in its mixture of neoclassical Austrian architecture and Venetian OCTOBER 2020

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D E S T I N AT I O N S

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canals. Its frontier location and access to the Adriatic Sea, has long provided economic benefits – Trieste’s free-port status fulfilled the Habsburg Empire’s maritime ambitions by linking the East and West. Yet in comparison with other regions of Italy, Friuli Venezia Giulia is lesser known as a travel destination. Perhaps that’s partly because its multicultural nature means its identity is difficult to pinpoint – author and travel writer Jan Morris once described the capital It was so quiet as “nowhereness”, a fairly accurate portrayal at night that I when you consider that as recently as 1999, 70 per cent of Italians weren’t aware that could just about Trieste even belonged to the nation.

MARCO MILANI; AM-C/ISTOCK

FIRST PORT OF CALL

hear the waves crashing

With cities such as nearby Venice overwhelmed with tourists, travellers are now seeking idyllic alternatives, for which the region is ideal. That’s where the roll-off-thetongue Portopiccolo comes in, a tremendous €45 million (US$52 million) borgo (village) in Sistiana, carved out of the limestone Duino cliffs 10km from Trieste. The resort opened in 2014 and predominantly financed by the Rizzani de Eccher construction group and Rilke real estate fund. Alleys weave through the labyrinthine hamlet, mapping out its fivestar hotel, luxury residences, gourmet restaurants, beach club, upmarket boutiques and world-class spa. These are all linked by a vast network of 72 lifts – some are on a diagonal incline, an at-first-unsettling trip but one that is definitely preferable to facing the steep climbs on foot after a large bowl of pasta.

It’s easy to see why people would invest in real estate OCTOBER 2020

here. Portopiccolo is well connected thanks to its borderland location – Ljubljana, Treviso and Venice airports are all within 150km and the smaller Trieste airport is only a 15-minute drive away – plus the waterfront villas are highly tempting. Still, if you only have time – or the funds – for a quick dose of escapism then the Marriott-operated Falisia, a Luxury Collection Resort and Spa, is indistinguishable from the peach-hued residences.

The 58-room hotel mirrors its marine environment with a colour palette of blues and whites, while brass and bronze elements pay homage to the golden age of ocean liners.

The rooms are suitably chic, featuring royal blue tapestries, sumptuous beds and spacious bathrooms clad in stone and marble. There’s an unmistakeable Italian flavour – toiletries by Acqua di Parma and heavenly biscotti baked onsite – yet the foreign influence is also in evidence, with canopy beds inspired by the Habsburg coat of arms.

FORCE OF NATURE

As with many new-builds of this kind, the resort has a strong focus on sustainability. The buildings do not produce CO2, air-conditioning and sanitary water production are generated by geothermal energy, and cars are restricted to the underground car park, an eco touch with an added benefit – it was so quiet at night that I could just about hear the waves crashing.

Once here, there’s no real need for a car – if you can sail, that is. Guests can cruise into Portopiccolo’s private marina, docking at one of its 120 berths. Sailing is far more than a means of transport to residents of Friuli Venezia Giulia, forming part of its identity thanks to the bora (winds) that blow in from the Adriatic – the region has 25 marinas and 15,000 berths.

My visit coincided with the build-up to the 51st edition

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Castello di Duino; Falisia guestroom; al fresco dining at Maxi’s; Spa by Bakel; Maxi’s Beach Club

of the Barcolana regatta in October, the largest sailing race in the world, and the excitement was palpable. As I’m not yet a yacht owner, I stuck to exploring the local area on foot, starting with the Rilke Trail. The panoramic 1.7km route begins in Sistiana and runs along the Duino Cliffs nature reserve to Castello di Duino, a 14th-century cliffside castle and now museum, where poet Rainer Maria Rilke once stayed. After a day of exploring, it was a pleasure to unwind in the cocoon of Portopiccolo.

Wellness worshippers are spoiled for choice here, able to nip from the infinity pools at Maxi’s Beach Club to the superb Spa by Bakel, a 3,600 sqm structure sculpted into the cliffs, where an indoor-outdoor pool opens on to a seafacing garden, perfect for drying off.

A TASTE OF THE REGION

The complexity of its history means Friuli Venezia Giulia does not have a typical Italian cuisine, with Slavic and Germanic influences filtering into its recipes. That said,

BELOW, FROM LEFT: Castello di Spessa; La Tavernetta al Castello

I made sure to get my fix of carbs, indulging in succulent lobster spaghetti at Maxi’s and snacking on bresaola and cheese croissants at Pek Pane e Caffe.

There’s plenty of dining variety at Portopiccolo, but it would be a shame to miss the exquisite trattorias further afield. Blessed with a climate conducive to the production of creamy wines, the region has some of the best whites in Italy. The bora once again come in handy, keeping the mineral-rich soils well ventilated. The region’s 1,700 vineyards produce 80 million bottles per year and 30 per cent of Europe’s vine cuttings are sourced here.

Already a fan of the region’s amber-hued wines at the hotel’s stylish La Piazzetta bar, I sought more labels in the rural village of Cormons, 35km north-west of Portopiccolo. There wasn’t a tourist in sight, with locals spilling out on to the piazza for a few glasses at Enoteca di Cormons, a bar championing local winemakers.

With aperitif over, I tried more regional cuisine at Castello di Spessa, a renovated 13th-century castle near Cormons, which now houses a wine resort and the charming La Tavernetta al Castello restaurant.

Joining large Italian families to feast on wild nettle ravioli and millefeuille with fresh berries and cream in the cosy cave-like dining spaces, I left feeling merry in both senses of the word. BT Rooms at Falisia, a Luxury Collection Resort and Spa, Portopiccolo, in November start from £198 (US$250). marriott.com OCTOBER 2020

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EASTERN 48

The Ritz-Carlton, Nikko OCTOBER 2020

HOTELS

PR MISE

A glance at some of Japan’s recent hotel openings

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WORDS SEHER ASAF

OCTOBER 2020

A

string of new hotels have either opened or are preparing to debut in Japan this year, making their mark in cities including Tokyo, Kyoto, Nikko and Yokohama.

While the country is currently closed to most foreign visitors, here are some of the new hotels to check out during your next trip when international travel resumes.

Hotel The Mitsui Kyoto 50

Hotel The Mitsui Kyoto is Marriott’s new Luxury Collection property in Kyoto and is set to open on November 3. Designed under the brand concept “embracing Japan’s beauty”, the hotel has 161 guest rooms, including Onsen Suites with outdoor natural hot spring baths in private gardens with trees, lanterns and stonework. There are two dining

outlets – Toki, which combines the traditions and techniques of French and Japanese cuisine to create a new teppan experience and Forni, an allday dining Italian restaurant. There’s a Garden Bar too, set in the beautifully landscaped grounds. Hotel The Mitsui Kyoto is the only luxury hotel in Kyoto city centre.

the-luxury-collection.marriott.com

ABOVE: The RitzCarlton, Nikko RIGHT: Zentis Osaka OPPOSITE PAGE: JW Marriott Nara BELOW: Hotel The Mitsui Kyoto

Zentis Osaka Zentis Osaka, the first property under the new Zentis brand, opened in May in the bustling port city. The five-star hotel, which occupies a 16-storey building, features 212 rooms and suites, with the layout of each drawing inspiration from the modular design of Japanese bento boxes. F&B options include all-day dining venue Upstairz, a lounge with snacks and afternoon tea, as well as a bar serving seasonal cocktails and Japanese whiskies.

Zentis says two major airports that serve Osaka – Kansai International Airport and Itami Airport (Osaka International Airport) – are located less than an hour’s drive away. zentishotels.com OCTOBER 2020

HOTELS

The Ritz-Carlton, Nikko Perched on Lake Chuzenji with the majestic Mount Nantai as its backdrop, The Ritz-Carlton, Nikko is the perfect base from which to explore scenic attractions such as the Nikko National Park. Nikko and the surrounding area has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site for the cultural, religious and architectural significance of its richly decorated shrines and temples. This beauty and history is celebrated throughout the hotel’s 93 rooms and suites, which offer a spacious layout

with an engawa or porch, a lake or mountain view, and décor that blends minimalist and traditional touches.

There’s a spa, fitness centre and two dining venues – The Japanese Restaurant offers all-day dining and dedicated areas for sushi and teppanyaki and the Lakehouse serves creative Western dishes. Nikko is around two-and-a-half-hours north of Tokyo and accessible by rail or car.

The destination is also popular for hiking, skiing and its natural springs. ritzcarlton.com

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JW Marriott Nara JW Marriott Nara, Marriott’s 800th property in Asia Pacific, opened in July and is the first international luxury hotel in Nara – a 75km drive from Osaka International Airport.

Situated on the edge of a 1,300-yearold garden set on former royal palace grounds, it offers 158 elegant rooms and suites. Dining options include Silk Road, an all-day dining venue featuring an open kitchen and design details incorporating elements from the ancient maritime Silk Road; specialty restaurant Azekura, which serves three styles of Japanese cuisine – teppanyaki, sushi and kaiseki; and the Flying Stag (pictured) lobby lounge and bar. Business travellers will appreciate the Executive Lounge offering concierge services and for meetings and events, there is a ballroom, four meeting rooms and the largest convention centre in Nara, adjacent to the hotel. A spa, indoor pool and a 24-hour fitness centre offer plenty of relaxation opportunities. marriott.com

OCTOBER 2020

HOTELS

The Fujisan Mishima Tokyu Hotel The Fujisan Mishima Tokyu Hotel opened its doors in the city of Mishima in July. The Tokyu Hotels Group’s new property, which is about 45 minutes from Tokyo by train, offers sweeping views of Mount Fuji. Guests can choose between a traditional Japanesestyle room with tatami flooring and futon beds or a “westernstyle” room. The top floor of the property features traditional Japanese-inspired baths overlooking majestic Mount Fuji.

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tokyuhotelsjapan.com

Yokohama Tokyu REI Hotel

Best Western Tokyo The Best Western Hotel Fino Tokyo Akasaka opened in August. The midscale hotel features 87 guest rooms, including standard, superior and deluxe options, and each is equipped with amenities such as a refrigerator and a television. Ideal for short or long stays, convenient on-site facilities include a 24-hour

business centre, laundromat and The Fino Restaurant serving breakfast, as well as Asian and Western dishes throughout the day. Wi-Fi is complimentary. Located in the Taito City area, it’s close to Akasaka Station, making it easy to get around this fascinating metropolis. bwhotels.jp

TOP: The Fujisan Mishima Tokyu Hotel ABOVE: Yokohama Tokyu REI Hotel BELOW: Best Western Tokyo

The Tokyu Hotels Group has also opened a “lifestyle hotel” in Yokohama City, noted for its “WARP design”, enabling guests to experience “lively and stimulating” public spaces such as a “moving lobby” where sound, light and video connect and guest rooms where they can “relax and seamlessly connect”. The idea is that they feel they are “warping” or blending into each space, mirroring Yokohama’s environment where historical and modern buildings are intermixed. Located just two minutes from Shin-Takashima Station in the Minatomirai area, Yokohama Tokyu REI Hotel also offers co-working spaces and a 24-hour grab and go eatery. It’s part of a larger complex that includes the head office of Koei Tecmo Games Co. and a liveperformance hall. The hotel reception and restaurant are located on the 9th floor and the 234 guest rooms are situated on the 10th and 15th floors. tokyuhotelsjapan.com

OCTOBER 2020

OPINION

If it’s not nailed down…

Research has revealed the extraordinary lengths guests can go to relieve hotel rooms of their contents

DEREK PICOT A VE TERAN HOTELIER AND AUTHOR OF NEW THRILLER T HE HOT EL DE T ECT IVE AND HIS LO V E R ( A M A Z O N , K I N D L E P U B L I S H I N G )

O

BENJAMIN SOUTHAN

ne side effect of the lockdown is that I have just about exhausted the supply of toiletries I have stolen from hotels in recent years.

All that remains are the dregs at the bottom of the bottles. Still plentiful is my stash of pens and pencils, which are lined up next to the notepads I also pilfered. Perhaps I could write to the hotels in question and ask for some more toiletries. Maybe not.

Before you condemn me too openly, consider that my kleptomaniac ways are nothing when compared with the list of stolen items compiled last year by hotel guide Wellness Heaven. Its survey of 1,157 hoteliers reveals that the list of items taken by guests virtually runs from Artwork to Zither. The inventory includes almost everything that is movable in a guestroom, from towels and coat hangers to remote controls, hairdryers and coffee makers.

EXPENSIVE TASTES The survey also strayed into controversial territory by suggesting which nationality was most likely to steal particular kinds of objects, and whether guests behaved differently in four- or five-star establishments. On this latter point, the 634 hoteliers from four-star hotels and 523 from five-star ones indicated that guests in the luxury segment appeared to be attracted to the big-ticket items.

For example, the probability that high-quality TV sets would be stolen from five-star properties was nine times higher than in four-star ones. Similarly, works of art

were more sought after by guests in luxury hotels, with a 5.5 times higher theft probability. Tablet computers are frequently swiped and, occasionally, even mattresses.

Think of the effort required to heave one of those out under the nose of the reception desk.

This loss of ridiculously large items reminded of the time some years ago when a night manager at Claridge’s was approached

The list of items taken includes almost everything that is movable in a guestroom

at 3am by men wearing white overalls emblazoned with the name of a famous piano manufacturer on the back. They told him they were there to collect the hotel’s performance Steinway. He dutifully helped them move it through the front hall and on to the back of their truck. That was the last the hotel saw of it.

To the more vexed question of national characteristics, it appears that German hotel guests are particularly prone to taking towels,

and not just so they might engage in the (probably apocryphal) pastime of placing them on the pool loungers at the crack of dawn. Austrians clearly can’t have enough espresso in the Alps, as coffee machines are among their preferred items.

Italians are fond of wine glasses, while in Switzerland the hairdryer is highly desirable.

The French, on the other hand, are not solely satisfied with the remote control but are also more likely to take the TV as well.

The survey concludes that the most practical Europeans are the Dutch – they take the lightbulbs and toilet paper. I must confess I was quietly impressed by the skill level of the guest or guests who stole a rainshower head, a hydro-massage shower, a toilet seat, a drainpipe and an entire sink from one Berlin hotel surveyed.

I was reminded of a guest who once wrote me an enthusiastic letter about a hotel I was in charge of that had recently been refurbished. After eulogising about the service and the comfort of the bedroom, he finished his last paragraph thus: “The quality of the bathroom amenities was second to none. The towels were so fluffy we had difficulty packing them into our suitcase.”

Still, I do understand how the subconscious tempts us when attractive items are wheeled out in front of our eyes. I once had the opportunity to serve an elderly Marlene Dietrich her daily breakfast at a well-known hotel on the Strand. After she had finished her scrambled eggs, she sometimes “borrowed” the silver from the trolley. My afternoon job was to search her room until we found it all. I’m sure we both enjoyed the game. BT OCTOBER 2020

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WATC H E S

Heroines of

THE HOUR

Our favourite women’s watches released this year balance creativity with serious craftsmanship

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WORDS CHRIS HALL

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ne of the prevailing trends in men’s watches over the past couple of years has been a general shrinking of case sizes, as tastes move back towards mid-century, mid-sized timepieces and away from the overblown creations of the early 2000s.

One knock-on result of this has been an uplift in the range of watches that are suitably sized for women’s wrists. Increasingly, designs are being marketed as unisex as brands become more aware that alienating half of the population is no smart move.

Still, it can justifiably feel that a littler version of a man’s watch is a special kind of patronisation – shouldn’t brands put the effort in to make something new? We’ve covered all bases with our selection: five of the finest women’s watches launched this year.

OCTOBER 2020

NOMOS GLASHUTTE TETRA SYMPHONY COLLECTION

The Tetra Symphony collection pays tribute to Beethoven

BREGUET CLASSIQUE 9065

Breguet’s latest addition to its Classique range is unapologetically glamorous and extremely traditional – as you’d expect from the brand named for one of the most influential watchmakers of all time (it also lays claim to creating the first wristwatch of any kind, created for the Queen of Naples in 1810).

The mother-of-pearl dial provides a beautifully vague, shimmering counterpoint to the crisp, thin hands and numerals, and the whole design is lent warmth by the rose gold case, bright red strap and the rich red colour used on the date window at 3 o’clock. There’s also a ruby cabochon inset into the crown.

The only thing that’s a bit much for my tastes is the outline of a heart on the end of the seconds hand, formed in gold and picked out in red lacquer. To my eye it’s a little “Disney princess”, but each to their own tastes and all that. £23,700 ($30,104); breguet.com

German watchmaker Nomos Glashutte is normally known for its matter-of-fact, minimalist approach, but from time to time has been found indulging its more sentimental side. So it is with its new Tetra Symphony range – a quartet of watches paying tribute to Ludwig van Beethoven, whose 250th birthday will be marked later this year.

Each model draws its name from significant works or moments in his life, and has a different dial design in elegant, muted tones.

They include the Fidelio (dark blue), Ode to Joy (olive green) and Immortal Beloved (named for a love letter written by the composer; turquoise).

The one shown here, Divine Spark, is named after a lyric from Ode to Joy. With its copper-coloured dial and gold hands, there’s a restrained opulence to it, while the hand-wound movement helps to keep the case nice and thin.

£1,660 ($2,100); nomos-glashuette.com

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ZENITH DEFY MIDNIGHT

Zenith’s new 36mm Defy Midnight strikes a good balance between practicality and flamboyance; the case and bracelet, which share their shape with the men’s Defy range, are sturdy stainless steel – albeit in a sleek, seventies-inspired design that’s finely brushed and polished – while it’s on the dial that the watch really sparkles.

The gradient of the dial from blue to black is a novel touch, and the decorative stars are a neat connection to the five-pointed star of the brand’s logo (also seen on the counterweight to the seconds hand).

Inside is Zenith’s in-house Elite automatic movement, with a 50-hour power reserve – handy if you put it down in favour of something more casual (or fancy) for the weekend. £7,300 ($9,266); zenith-watches.com

→

OCTOBER 2020

WATC H E S

BULGARI DIVAS’ DREAM FINISSIMA MINUTE REPEATER MALACHITE

Bulgari has recently made headlines with a number of record-breaking ultra-thin watches, all of them feats of micro-engineering but also united by a fairly austere aesthetic.

With this minute repeater, the jeweller combines some of its traditional glamour with one of the world-beating movements – the thinnest women’s minute repeater calibre ever made. Minute repeaters chime out the time using a pair of miniature hammers and gongs; to activate it, you pull the fan-shaped lever on the left-hand side.

The decorations necessary to make this a women’s watch worthy of the Bulgari name – the white-gold case snow-set with brilliant diamonds, and the hardstone malachite dial – mean it is no longer an ultra-thin watch overall, but I’d argue that it is a more complete creation as a result. £/$POA; bulgari.com

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VACHERON CONSTANTIN EGERIE

It offers the right balance of whimsical design and fine execution

It is downright stunning that, until this year, Vacheron Constantin – the world’s oldest watch brand in continuous existence – did not have a range of watches designed specifically for women. Until now, there were only smaller and more gem-encrusted versions of its men’s watches.

That has all changed with the launch of the Egérie (named after an ancient Roman nymph), a family of 35mm and 37mm watches that are immediately identifiable by the off-set circular opening at 2 o’clock and the unusual placement of the crown to match.

That circular window is used to display the date on the entry-level model (£16,300), but I think is at its best when housing the moonphase complication seen here, with a stylised night sky depicted in mother-of-pearl and rose gold, ringed by diamonds.

It’s the right balance of whimsical design and fine execution – which you could also say of the handguilloché patterns on the rest of the dial, intended to evoke fine lacework. £30,000 ($38,000); vacheron-constantin.com

OCTOBER 2020

BT

OPINION

Taxing times Will air travel ever get back to normal, and should it? Perhaps now is the best time to take stock of its environmental impact DR ROGER TYERS VISITING FELLOW IN SOCIOLOGY AT THE UNIVERSIT Y OF SOUTHAMPTON, UK

O

f the many industries hit by the COVID-19 pandemic, aviation has taken a particularly big knock. At the height of lockdown in April, flights were down by 94 per cent across the world compared with April 2019.

Thousands of airline jobs have been lost, huge bailouts have been granted by governments and low demand will persist for some time as travel restrictions and social distancing combine with passengers’ reluctance to board planes and get cosy with strangers. We might wonder when air travel will get back to normal. But given that the impending climate emergency has not gone away, perhaps the better question is whether it should it get back to normal at all.

FUEL TO THE FIRE First, back to basics. The lifeblood of aviation and the main source of its pollution is kerosene, a fossil fuel. Burning one tonne of kerosene creates about three tonnes of carbon dioxide. Burn 359 billion litres, as the aviation industry did in 2018, and you create about 900 million tonnes of CO2 – more than Germany’s entire economy.

The other thing to know about kerosene is that it is untaxed for international flights.

This tax exemption is a quirk of the so-called “Chicago convention”, signed in the late 1940s between world leaders drawing up rules for aviation that still apply today. It is kerosene’s tax-free status that has given aviation a competitive advantage over ferries, night trains or high-speed rail, enabled budget air travel, and is what makes it

financially unattractive for the industry to would no doubt respond to this, so a invest big in alternative fuels. second outcome would be a step-change in So aviation is, at its core, a fossil fuel research and the scaling-up of cleaner business, and a growing one. Pre-Covid, alternatives to kerosene, especially synthetic industry body IATA predicted a doubling of “electrofuels”, which currently can’t compete 2018 passenger numbers by 2038, meaning with untaxed kerosene. far more greenhouse gas emissions. By 2050, Airlines and airports would rather discuss the industry is set to account for almost a alternatives such as carbon offsets, more quarter of all emissions globally, and be the efficient planes and routing, and future UK’s single most polluting sector. unproven technological breakthroughs. But Without some meaningful changes in given the limited time remaining to avoid behaviour and policy, Covid might delay, climate breakdown, we need to get more but not stop, this trend. Aviation recovered radical. How to implement this? A “flat” quickly from slumps following 9/11 and the carbon or fuel tax on flights would be the financial crash of 2008. It could easily do the simplest to roll out, but a more targeted tax same after COVID, especially if aviation would be fairer. So the idea of a Frequent continues to enjoy its privileged position as a Flyer Levy (FFL) is gaining traction as a way low-tax industry. to ensure access to flying is This tax exemption often shared more equitably. A FFL Given the limited seems like a sacred cow of would mean everyone gets time remaining to aviation, but how long can one return flight tax-free per it last? When governments year, but subsequent ones are avoid climate seek to repay eye-watering taxed at an escalating rate. So breakdown, we need if you were to fly 20 times a debts incurred in this crisis, through austerity measures year, it would cost an order of to get more radical or tax rises, aviation’s magnitude more than today. privileged tax regime may Are we ready for the end seem like an unfair historical anomaly. After of cheap flights? Perhaps all, you pay significant tax on a litre of car lockdown has given us a fuel, or a pint, but none on jet practice run at a future with fuel. After the industry has more Zoom calls and less got back on its feet, we’ll need flying. Some surveys also suggest to talk about tax.

COVID has increased concern over Taxing fuel more could lead climate change. Maybe now is the time to two positive outcomes. to start seeing flying as a luxury and taxing First, if set at an appropriate level, it would it as such, until we have really figured out a reduce demand so that some less “essential” cleaner way of doing it. More details on the flights simply don’t take off. The industry FFL can be found at afreeride.org BT OCTOBER 2020

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B u s i n e s s Tr a v e l l e r M i d d l e E a s t m a g a z i n e i s a v a i l a b l e i n a l l o f t h e s e e x c l u s i v e h o t e l s

HOTELS COLLECTION

GRAND MILLENNIUM DUBAI HOTEL

MIRFA HOTEL

WALDORF ASTORIA RAS AL KHAIMAH

DUBAI The 340-room five star hotel features awardwinning restaurants and bars, spa and health club, stateof-the-art meeting rooms, a magnificent ballroom and exceptional banquet facilities. +971 4 429 9999 reservations@grandmill-dubai.com grandmillenniumdubai.com

AL MARFA Away from the bustle of city life, overlooking the azure blue waters of the Arabian Gulf, the Mirfa Hotel offers 114 newly renovated rooms. The hotel provides excellent accommodation for the business and leisure traveller, state-of-the-art conference facilities, a fully equipped gym and ample parking. +971 2 8953009 rsvn@mirfahotel.com

RAS AL KHAIMAH Cradled by the Hajar Mountains, a championship golf course, sandy beaches and the azure waters of the Arabian Sea, Waldorf Astoria Ras Al Khaimah is 50 minutes from Dubai Airport and brings true Waldorf service to the most alluring beachfront location in the UAE. +971 7 2035555 rasalkhaimah.info@waldorfastoria.com waldorfastoria.com/rasalkhaimah

CROWNE PLAZA MUSCAT OMAN CONVENTION & EXHIBITION CENTRE

CROWNE PLAZA DEIRA, DUBAI

SHANGRI-LA HOTEL, DUBAI

OMAN Adjacent to the Oman Convention and Exhibition Centre, this 295-room hotel is an integral part of Madinat Al Irfan, a product of an exciting ambition to establish a new urban centre within Muscat. Situated 10 minutes from the new Muscat International Airport, Al Mouj and Muscat Hills Golf courses and overlooking a Wadi - a natural reserve and home to about 260 variety of Oman’s exotic birdlife during the season. +968 2425 2000 rooms.cpmuscatocec@ihg.com crowneplaza.com/muscatocec

DUBAI Located in the cultural heart of Dubai, Crowne Plaza Dubai – Deira lies at the convenient gateway between the old and new districts of the city. Featuring 300 guest rooms and suites, and an array of meeting rooms, 6 restaurants and bars, a dedicated and fully equipped fitness centre with outdoor swimming pool, the hotel is the perfect place for both leisure and business guests. +971 4 262 5555 cpdeira.info@ihg.com crowneplaza.com/deira

DUBAI The award-winning Shangri-La Hotel, Dubai offers luxurious accommodations, exceptional dining and gracious hospitality in the heart of one of the world’s most dynamic cities. The hotel’s 302 superbly appointed rooms and suites offer a combination of traditional luxury and modern functionality. Spatial elegance, awesome views and thoughtfully selected furnishings create an experience of unparalleled style and comfort. +971 4 3438888 shangri-la.com/dubai

the

eport Tried, Tested, Tasted.

TRIED AND TESTED

TRIED AND TESTED

TRIED AND TESTED

SMART TRAVELLER

∙ The Chedi Al Bait,

∙ The Mandrake, London

∙ Rosewood Hong Kong

∙ A guide to travelling

Sharjah – A GHM Hotel

60 ∙ Waldorf Astoria, RAK

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62 ∙ London Marriott

64 ∙ LN Garden Hotel,

County Hall Hotel

Nansha, Guangzhou

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during the pandemic

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BEST FOR A stylish staycation to discover the cultural heart of this traditional and magical emirate

DON’T MISS The hotel museum and library. Hosting documents and artifacts belonging to the Al Midfa family, who called this their family home, it is an unmissable introduction to their pearl trading heritage.

PRICE From AED 640 ($171) and a 25 per cent discount for UAE residents on the best available rate

CONTACT Heart of Sharjah; tel +971 (0)6 502 5555 ghmhotels.com

B U S I N E S S The rooms centre around

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The Chedi Al Bait, Sharjah – A GHM Hotel B A C K G R O U N D Housed inside a

collection of five stunning minimalistic heritage properties, The Chedi Al Bait, Sharjah was once home to one of the most influential families of this historic port town.

The property has been beautifully restored to house ultra-luxurious hotel suites that offer a deep dive into the history of the UAE.

W H A T ’ S I T L I K E ? Pure perfection.

Every angle is flawless; the interiors and exteriors trace stylish lines, which are optimally lit. But The Chedi Al Bait’s greatest asset is its staff. Every need is anticipated, every want is fulfilled. You are constantly surprised by little treats: cold towels and juices by the pool, a delicious mocktail or small dish courtesy of the kitchen, a walking tour with a history lesson thrown in, and more.

W H E R E I S I T ? The Chedi Al Bait could not be more central as part of the renovated ‘Heart of Sharjah’ district.

Literally on the doorstep of your suite you will find numerous museums and a charming souk. Here you can truly immerse yourself in genuine Emirati culture.

OCTOBER 2020

R O O M S The rooms are a minimalist’s

dream. Fashioned in traditional Arabian style there is an Instagram-worthy post waiting around every corner. Within the charming interiors you will want for no modern touch. The sound system was so good I went home and immediately bought one myself! The bathroom amenities are pure luxury and you will find homemade chocolates and date bars waiting for you alongside eco-friendly refillable bottles of sparkling and still water.

Unmissable for those living and working in the UAE F O O D A N D D R I N K The cusine at The Chedi Al Bait is exemplary. The hotel’s Arabic restaurant boasts delights from Tunisia, Morocco, Egypt and the UAE, each more delicious than the last. The High Tea experience is an unmissable platter; it’s best described as magical fairytale on a bed of moss, with macaroons shaped like little toadstools and a mist of dry ice to add to the experience. Every dish is well considered and tasty and the prices are surprisingly reasonable.

courtyards and each has a majilis; a perfect quiet area to take a zoom call or work on a proposal. Pick up the phone and the best Turkish coffee will magically appear in your room. With such soothing interiors it is hard not to feel inspired.

L E I S U R E While the pool is the place to

laze and the gym is well equipped with the latest Technogym kit, the real star of this hotel is the spa. The treatments are blissful and the expert therapists give some of the best massages in the UAE. Again, the minimalist lines and perfect ambiance cannot help but sooth away the most stressful of days.

V E R D I C T Unmissable for those living and working in the UAE. A short drive from Dubai, it feels a world away from the bright lights and tall buildings. Just one night here makes you feel somehow more elegant than when you entered. Caroline Rowe

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BEST FOR

Waldorf Astoria Ras Al Khaimah

Business services

DON’T MISS Sundowners at the adultonly pool and a trip to Jais Adventure Park

B A C K G R O U N D Opened in 2013, the super-luxurious Waldorf Astoria Ras Al Khaimah is the brand’s regional flagship property.

W H A T ’ S I T L I K E ? A gargantuan structure seen from miles around and inspired by traditional Arabian architecture, but with a modern twist. The hotel’s interior is quintessentially Waldorf; contemporary, classical and elegant. The iconic Peacock Alley, common to all Waldorf properties, wows guests as they enter the grand lobby, as well as the characteristic clock tower, which in RAK, has been uniquely designed to honour regional Arabic culture and displays the five daily prayer times.

W H E R E I S I T ? It’s a coastal resort adjacent to an 18-hole championship golf course, close to Al Hamra Mall and just a 50-minute drive from Dubai International Airport. The destination’s crown jewel, the Hajar Mountains, are 90 minutes away, but well worth the trip. Here you’ll find Jais Adventure Park, home to the world’s longest zip line and other pursuits such as hiking and climbing. This destination is incredibly popular for corporate teambuilding events.

PRICE From AED1,144 ($307) for a weeknight stay in October

CONTACT Tel: +971-7-2035555 waldorfastoria3.hilton. com

The hotel’s interior is quintessentially Waldorf; contemporary, classical and elegant R O O M S This is a mega hotel with 346 rooms and suites. I stayed in the King Junior Suite with a balcony and beautiful sea views. The sound of the ocean waves lapping on the shore provided a relaxing acoustic backdrop. With an open-plan design, accented with Arabian-style arches, the suite was light and airy and featured a comfortable desk space, day bed, table setting for inside and outside dining and a huge walk-in closet.

F O O D A N D D R I N K Due to COVID-19, some restaurants were temporarily closed.

I had dinner at Lexington Grill, famous for its selection of quality meats. Dark woods and low lighting gave a warm feel to the New York-style venue and I thought the cosy booths would be ideal for a private meeting/dining experience. I also devoured a delicious veal Milanese at Azure – a bright and spacious Italian diner with pool and beach views. Breakfast at Qasr Al Bahr was a la carte, rather than a buffet and the choice was huge.

B U S I N E S S The impressive business setup includes an extensive range of meeting and event facilities with indoor and outdoor locations available. Five spacious meeting rooms offer state-of-the-art audio-visual equipment and natural light.

The boardroom is designed to host smaller meetings for five to 20 people.

L E I S U R E The superb hotel gym is

kitted out with high quality Technogym cardio equipment and free weights and is spacious, clean, well thought-out and maintained. Social distancing measures include limited numbers and set closure times for cleaning. There is also an impressive spa and an adults-only pool.

V E R D I C T A well-located property linking Dubai and Ras Al Khaimah and offering excellent business facilities in a beautiful, natural setting. Watch out for the extras though. Prices are certainly on the higher end of the scale for the likes of your favourite coffee in your room or a soft drink by the pool. Melanie Swan OCTOBER 2020

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The Mandrake, London B A C K G R O U N D The Mandrake opened in September 2017 and is owned by Rami Fustok. It reopened on July 4 and I stayed a couple of weeks later. COVID-19 precautions were in place.

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W H A T ’ S I T L I K E ? Very discreet – if you didn’t know the address, you’d struggle to guess that there was a boutique hotel behind the façade of what must once have been a mansion block apartment building. The hotel’s restaurant (closed at the time but since reopened) has its own entrance, and you exited the building via this door to ensure one-way traffic. I was subjected to a quick temperature check and then walked down a dark corridor to the double-height reception.

The interiors are striking, with design studio Tala Fustok (the owner’s sister) aiming to create “spaces that seamlessly reflect the opulence of Paris alongside the eccentricities of London”. What that means is “jewel-toned velvets, gilded mirrors and metallic coffee tables with drape curtains and curvaceous wing chairs”, along with dark paint tones and “vintage panel screens covered with lush botanical prints”. I’d arrived too early for my room, and perhaps too early for the vibe, which I appreciated much more when I returned in the evening.

W H E R E I S I T ? On Newman Street in Fitzrovia, north of Oxford Street and about a five-minute walk from Tottenham Court Road Tube station. It is a quiet street for such a central location.

R O O M S The hotel has 34 rooms, including three suites and a penthouse. All have good soundproofing, free wifi and safes. Entrylevel Mandrake rooms are 22 sqm, followed

by Newman rooms at 33 sqm. I stayed in the Newman junior suite, a lovely room with a large bathroom that had a roll-top tub at its centre as well as a separate shower. I was warned that if I pressed a button then the opaque glass wall by the shower would turn transparent, and if the occupant of the neighbouring Terrace suite did the same then we would be able to watch each other shower. I chose to have a bath.

The lighting system completely defeated me, although there was at least a master switch by the bed. Standard rooms are better-lit, and if you are staying for work are a better choice since they have desks,

The Jurema terrace and courtyard really are an oasis in the middle of London which the Newman suite doesn’t. Rooms now have QR code coasters on the tables to scan for the minibar prices. Magazines remain in the rooms, thank goodness.

F O O D A N D D R I N K Waeska bar is gorgeous and features modern art. When I stayed, Yopo restaurant had closed its ground-floor space and instead was serving outdoors on the first-floor Jurema terrace.

The menu is South American and has plenty of choice. The terrace is impressive, turning what would be simply the courtyard into an almost tropical place (aided by a soundtrack in the morning of birds and bees). One side of the courtyard is open, with the other three featuring iron balconies clad in greenery. From the terrace you can see the top of two mature Tasmanian ferns that are the centrepiece of the ground-floor terrace below, which is connected to the lobby and

bar. It really is an oasis in the middle of London. The staff are excellent.

M E E T I N G S There is a large room for

gatherings called Masha Hari, where meditative and healing events also occur.

L E I S U R E The hotel takes its name from

the medicinal plant, the mandrake, and places an emphasis on “healing, positive energies and intrigue”. I don’t know what this means, but there was the offer of a 30-minute guided meditation on the terrace at 8am (I didn’t sign up).

V E R D I C T Superb service and design

make the Mandrake a unique place to stay.

BEST FOR Getting away from it all – and perhaps discovering a new personality – in the centre of town

DON’T MISS A drink at the bar, then relaxing in the courtyard under the Tasmanian ferns and telling yourself you’re still in London

PRICE Internet rates for a flexible midweek stay in November started from £380 ($479) for a Mandrake room

CONTACT 20-21 Newman Street; tel +44 (0)20 3146 7770; themandrake.com

OCTOBER 2020

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BEST FOR Its unrivalled location

DON’T MISS Afternoon tea in The Library, which welcomed politicians and royalty for centuries

PRICE From £251 ($315) per night including breakfast in October

CONTACT Westminster Bridge Road, London SE1 7PB; tel +44 (0)20 7928 5200 LondonMarriottCountyHall.co.uk

London Marriott County Hall B A C K G R O U N D Housed in London’s former City Hall (the HQ of London County Council and later, the Greater London Council) and standing proudly on the River Thames opposite the Houses of Parliament, this hotel is part of the city’s rich history. It became a Marriott hotel in 1998, but as a Grade II listed building, most of its original architecture remains.

W H A T ’ S I T L I K E ? It’s difficult not to be

over-awed by its impressive structure and outstanding location, overlooking the iconic Big Ben and arm’s length from the London Eye. Step inside and the century-old oakcovered walls remind you this behemoth has been stamped by history – from being struck by a bomb in WWII to playing host to infamous political battles in the ‘80s. This is more than a hotel, it’s a museum where people dine and stay. There are nods to British history, but with a quirky modern twist, around every corner, from classicnovel-inspired wallpaper to an old red phone box by the lifts.

W H E R E I S I T ? On Westminster Bridge

Road, close to Waterloo Station and many South Bank attractions and a stone’s throw from the Houses of Parliament.

F O O D A N D D R I N K We dined at Gillray’s

This is more than a hotel, it’s a museum where people dine and stay C H E C K I N We entered via a grand

arch adorned with life-size replicas of the Queen’s Guard and were escorted to reception. All staff were wearing masks and there were plastic screens at the check-in desk. I won’t lie; it does create a barrier to service and the staff seemed a little awkward with it all. The check-in process was smooth, apart from a slight oversight regarding the welcome drink.

R O O M S Spacious rooms feature

characteristics echoing British eccentricity including pocket-watch print curtains, bowler hat artwork and London map wallpaper. Our room had a king bed, chaise lounge, armchair and worktable, the in-room technology you’d expect and a luxurious bathroom with shower (no bath) and Molton Brown amenities. Our view of the river and London Eye was stunning.

Steakhouse & Bar overlooking the Thames.

Although the menu (accessible via QR code on our iPhones) was quite limited, the quality of dishes, sourced from local produce, was outstanding – small sharing plates including a giant Yorkshire pudding to start; a perfectly cooked rib-eye steak and succulent fish and chips for main, and no room for dessert. We ate breakfast here too, enjoying a cooked veggie plate with juice and coffee as part of the room package (other options were available).

B U S I N E S S Gillray’s Bar is ideal for informal drinks or can be hired for small corporate gatherings while the event space includes a boardroom (up to 12 people) and 12 meeting rooms (maximum capacity 120 theatre style). There’s an M Club Lounge too, but that was closed due to COVID-19 restrictions.

L E I S U R E It’s a fitness fanatic’s dream

come true – a 600 sqm gym (open to guests and members) with a vast range of cardio, strength and functional training equipment plus a 25-metre indoor pool.

V E R D I C T A very British experience in a history-meets-modern-Britain kind of way.

Superb location, high-quality cuisine and great facilities, but the software (service) didn’t quite match up to the hardware.

Never-the-less, I’d visit again, just for the location and food. Gemma Greenwood OCTOBER 2020

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to the 40th-floor Manor Club, which has outdoor terraces, food and a bar serving free evening cocktails (access can be purchased by guests in lower-category rooms – this was an extra HK$1,980/£194 per night when we checked).

Rosewood Hong Kong B A C K G R O U N D In February, with the

COVID-19 pandemic in its early stages, I stayed at the Rosewood Hong Kong, which had already instituted many of the measures that have now become familiar to us. Temperature checks were in place at the entrance, staff wore masks and there were lots of hand sanitising stations. In the past six months, further measures have been imposed in Hong Kong, with hotel guests now required to wear masks too.

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W H A T ’ S I T L I K E ? The hotel is in a Kohn Pedersen Fox-designed, 65-storey skyscraper that also contains Rosewood residences and offices and is connected to the K11 Musea shopping mall. The intention is for it to feel like a high-end home, or “elevated residential hotel living”, as they put it, so there are lawns, gardens and terraces, all by interior designer Tony Chi.

The hotel makes the most of its location, with harbour views from reception Although new – it opened in March last year – the hotel contains many references to the history of the location, as well as to the Cheng family that owns Rosewood.

A sweeping cobblestoned drive takes you up from Salisbury Road, the noise of Kowloon left behind you as bonsai and topiary come into view ahead. The hotel entrance faces out towards Victoria Harbour, as if still welcoming people arriving

by sea, and the forecourt has several luxury cars with Rosewood number plates.

The lobby is on the second floor, with event space on the third and fourth, the spa on the sixth and seventh and guestrooms on levels 24-40, with some of the top suites positioned on higher floors. The hotel makes the most of its location, with harbour views from the marble-floored, limestone-walled reception area. Art is everywhere, including works by Damien Hirst and Hong Kong’s Wilson Shieh, and a startling life-sized sculpture by Indian artist Bharti Kher called The Skin Speaks a Language Not its Own, of an elephant lying down, either resting or dead.

W H E R E I S I T ? On the Kowloon side of the city, on the waterfront next to the Avenue of Stars, in an area called Victoria Dockside. You can walk to the hotel from East Tsim Sha Tsui MTR station (follow the signs for exit K or J).

R O O M S The 413 rooms (which include

91 suites) start at a huge 53 sqm, with the suites starting at 92 sqm. More than 80 per cent of the rooms have harbour views, with the rest overlooking Kowloon Peak. They feature very large beds, lacquer panelling, Loro Piana navy wool wall coverings, and bathrooms with freestanding tubs and twin showers. Suite and Club Grand Harbour View room guests get access

F O O D A N D D R I N K The nine dining and drinking venues (some are currently closed) range from Holt’s Café, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, to the fine-dining Legacy House, which has a focus on regional Shunde cuisine, a type of Cantonese cooking. The all-day Butterfly Room serves afternoon tea, and the Butterfly Patisserie looks more like a high-end jeweller and offers cakes, gelatos, sorbets and handmade chocolates. Dark Side bar has nightly live jazz and an al fresco terrace overlooking the harbour. Connected to the mall but still part of the hotel is Bayfare Social, offering Spanish cuisine with Asian touches, and smokehouse restaurant Henry, led by British chef Nathan Green.

M E E T I N G S There is 3,200 sqm of venue space, including a pillarless ballroom that seats 780 guests for a banquet.

L E I S U R E The gym is huge and the Asaya

spa has facilities so extensive it would need another review to cover (both were closed as we went to press).

V E R D I C T One of the best and most luxurious hotels in Hong Kong. Tom Otley BEST FOR An indulgent stay in a central location that still feels secluded

DON’T MISS The chance to try fine-dining Shunde cuisine at the outstanding Legacy House

PRICE Internet rates for a flexible midweek stay in November started from HK$4,730 ($580) for a Kowloon Peak View room

CONTACT Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui; tel +852 3891 8888; rosewoodhotels.com

OCTOBER 2020

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LN Garden Hotel, Nansha

BEST FOR The stunning natural environment

DON’T MISS The chance to take a walk or bike ride around the coastal park

PRICE

B A C K G R O U N D LN Garden Hotel, Nansha, which opened in August 2018, is the sister hotel of the older LN Garden Hotel located in nearby Guangzhou’s city centre. In April 2019, the hotel became a member of the Worldhotels Elite” collection of the independent hotel alliance Worldhotels.

W H E R E I S I T ? Inside the Nansha Coastal Park in Guangzhou’s southern Nansha District, part of a pilot-free trade zone in Guangdong province. The local business district in Nansha is 15 minutes away by car, while the city centre is around 75 minutes away.

The hotel is a 10-minute drive from Nansha Passenger Port, which provides a 90-minute ferry connection to Hong Kong (China Hong Kong City in Tsim Sha Tsui), and a 70-minute ferry ride to Hong Kong International Airport. Shenzhen Bao’an airport is one hour away by car.

W H A T ’ S I T L I K E ? From afar, the hotel resembles a luxury cruise ship, which echoes Nansha’s historical role as a fishing port and an important passenger and cargo port today.

The Level 2 lobby is spacious and features a pendant artwork called “Echoes of a Light Second” in the central atrium.

The artwork is made from more than 1,600 transparent acrylic triangular rods hanging from the roof. When natural light pours in from the glass roof during daytime, the

Internet rates for an Executive Garden View Room for a week-day stay in October start from $220

It’s good for those who want to escape the busy city life and enjoy some fresh air and the lush greenery

CONTACT Dajiao 2nd Road, Nansha District, Guangzhou lnhotels.com 65

prisms placed at different angles create a variety of light and shade effects.

cocktails and snacks (6pm-8.30pm), and soft drinks and refreshments (7am-10pm).

R O O M S There are 365 guestrooms and suites, all with private balconies.

I stayed in a 55 sqm Executive room on Level 8 with a king-size bed. A pair of Chinese type sockets, a USB port, and an Olixar Qi-Tone alarm clock and Bluetooth speaker can be found above the bedside table near the bathroom. There’s also a small living room area.

In front of the bed is a wall-mounted TV and another small round table with two chairs and a lamp.

The minibar and Nespresso machine are next to the lamp. Besides complimentary teabags and Nespresso coffee capsules, there are also some other chargeable beverages and snacks. The bathroom area is separated from the bedroom with a sliding concertina curtain. The bathtub is just behind this.

F O O D A N D D R I N K The hotel has five dining venues. Café Flora is the hotel’s all-day dining restaurant on Level 1. The two-storey Peach Blossom is a Chinese restaurant. Grill is a speciality restaurant with barbecue food for dinner on Level 2.

The lobby has the Seed patisserie and a lobby lounge for afternoon tea and drinks.

L O U N G E The Level 8 executive lounge is open to guests in Executive rooms and suites. At 204 sqm, it can accommodate up to 56. Services include private check-in and checkout, breakfast for up to two, evening

L E I S U R E On the ground floor are a

24-hour gym and two pools. The hotel also offers bike rental. Rates start from $7 per hour. Other recreational facilities include a billiards room and a children’s play centre, plus a tennis court that can be booked for RMB80 (US$11.4) an hour.

V E R D I C T While better for leisure than business, it’s still a decent choice for corporate travellers with business in the local business district. Since it’s situated in a coastal park far from the city centre, it’s good for those who want to escape the busy city life and enjoy some fresh air and the lush greenery surrounding the hotel.

Jackie Chen OCTOBER 2020

SMART TR AVELLER

travelling during the pandemic A guide to...

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A

fter months of lockdown and accompanying travel bans, countries around the world have started to lift restrictions and reopen their borders. That said, no travel is risk-free and spikes in cases will occur until we have a vaccine. Authorities are, understandably, remaining cautious and are continuously reviewing travel guidance, imposing quarantines, self-isolation and entry restrictions at short notice to protect public health.

Nevertheless, many of us still want to travel, or need to.

To help this process, here we round up some of the best resources for keeping up to date with the latest advice.

FOREIGN AND COMMONWEALTH OFFICE

As a whole, the FCO is advising British nationals “against all but essential international travel”, with a 14-day quarantine in place for those returning from a country outside of the Common Travel Area (Ireland, the Channel Islands and the Isle of Man). In July, the UK government announced an easing of restrictions, introducing a list of “travel corridors”: countries and territories exempt from this rule. Note that Scotland has its own list of exempt countries. These countries are viewed as no longer posing a high risk for UK travellers. You will not have to self-isolate as per OCTOBER 2020

government regulations, unless you made a transit stop in a country that is not on the list in the 14 days before arriving in the UK. This list is subject to change at any moment – as we went to press, France, the Netherlands, Monaco, Malta, Turks and Caicos Islands and Aruba had recently been removed – so visit the website before booking any travel. You can sign up for country email alerts to stay informed of any changes while there. gov.uk/guidance/travel-advicenovel-coronavirus

OVERSEAS GOVERNMENT WEBSITES While you might have the green light from the UK to travel, you

still have to comply with regulations in the country you are visiting. Measures can vary from a requirement to self-isolate, quarantine or undergo a Covid test to simply providing your details to local authorities. This information can be found on government websites, and the FCO has a page for each country.

PASSENGER LOCATOR FORM

Regardless of whether the country you have visited is classed as being part of a “travel corridor”, both UK residents and visitors must complete the government’s passenger locator form prior to entering the UK. This must be done online in the 48-hour window before travel, and you have to show either a digital or paper version of the document attached to your confirmation email at the UK border. This is so the government can get in contact if you or someone you have travelled with develops symptoms. People arriving from the Common Travel Area do not have to complete the form, nor do certain people with specific job roles. Failure to comply can result in a fine. gov. uk/provide-journey-contactdetails-before-travel-uk

WORLD HEALTH ORGANISATION

The UN body has plenty of useful advice on its website, including a Q&A for travellers that provides advice on topics such as the wearing of face masks, ventilation on board aircraft, and guidance for high-risk passengers. The website also has a useful COVID-19 “dashboard” with a map showing up-to-date information on cases and deaths by country, territory and area. who.int; covid19.who.int

AMERICAN EXPRESS GLOBAL BUSINESS TRAVEL

Amex GBT recently unveiled “Travel Vitals”, an online platform that aims to give travellers all of the information they may need before, during and after a business trip. Free to use, it draws on data from hundreds of sources and allows you to search for real-time travel information by destination, airline, airport, hotel chain, rail operator and ground transport provider.

There is also a handy “knowbefore-you-go” tool that outlines travel restrictions for specific locations and identifies COVID-19 hotspots and spike areas. travelvitals.amexgbt.com BT

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