FALL/WINTER 2022 LOOK SMART, LIVE SMARTER Khalid Al Ameri
C M Y CM MY CY CMY K
DUBAI MEDIA CITY SD 2-94, 2nd Floor, Building 2, Dubai, UAE, Tel: (+971) 4 390 3550, Fax: (+971) 4 390 4845 ABU DHABI PO Box 43072, UAE, Tel: (+971) 2 677 2005, Fax: (+971) 2 677 0124, E-mail: motivate-adh@motivate.ae
MANAGINGObaidEDITOR-IN-CHIEFHumaidAlTayerPARTNERANDGROUP EDITOR Ian EDITOR/ASSOCIATEFairservicePUBLISHER Amy Sessions amy.sessions@motivate.ae SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Olga Petroff DIGITAL EDITOR Olivia Morris FASHION EDITOR Daniel Robinson JUNIOR DIGITAL STYLE EDITOR Sarah Joseph GENERAL MANAGER PRODUCTION Sunil Kumar PRODUCTION MANAGER Binu Purandaran PRODUCTION SUPERVISOR Venita Pinto CHIEF COMMERCIAL OFFICER Anthony Milne
SAUDI ARABIA Office 452, Regus Offices, 4th Floor, Al Hamad Tower, King Fahad Road, Al Olaya, PO Box 12381, Riyadh 6764, Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, Tel: (+966) 11 834 3595 / (+966) 11 834 3596, Fax: (+966) 11 834350
LONDON Acre House, 11/15 William Road, London NW1 3ER, UK, E-mail: motivateuk@motivate.ae
HEAD OFFICE Media One Tower, Dubai Media City, PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE, Tel: (+971) 4 4273000, Fax: (+971) 4 4282261, E-mail: motivate@motivate.ae
GROUP MARKETING MANAGER Joelle Albeaino WEB DEVELOPER Firoz Kaladi CONTRIBUTORS Andrew Wingrove, Varun Godinho, Guido Duken
SENIOR SALES MANAGER Anna Chipala anna.chipala@motivate.ae
GROUP DIRECTOR Andrew Wingrove GROUP SALES MANAGER Chaitali Khimji chaitali.khimji@motivate.ae
SMARTER.SMART,LOOKLIVE Amy Sessions EDITOR / ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Editor’s Letter
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Welcome to Emirates Man – The Fall/ Winter 2022 Issue. This is your guide to being in the know. From grooming to tech we’ll ensure you’re ahead of the curve when it comes to the latest gadgets. If you’re into watches, our resident watch geeks will deliver all the detail you need to make the right investment, we interview the guys making moves on a global and local scale and we’ll tell you where the coolest places are to hangout. Welcome to the club. For the cover we are honoured to have entrepreneur, father and philanthropist Khalid Al Ameri in The Modern Man on page 18. Watch obsessives will enjoy the latest installment from The Watch Addict on page 14 while Everyday Heroes on page 36 highlights the relaxed luxury timepieces we should be investing in. We have exclusive interviews with one of fashion’s great iconoclasts, Paris-based American designer Rick Owens who has just opened his first store in the region in The Non-Conformist on page 48, César Habib, Rolls-Royce Motor Cars ME & Africa Regional Director in Private Office on page 74 and football legend José Mourinho in The Master Coach on page 76. If you’re fitness and grooming focused, you’ll enjoy our exclusive interview with Francis Kurkdjian, Co-Founder of Maison Francis Kurkdjian as he discusses the launch of new fragrance 724 and all that inspired it, in A Master of Innovation on page 68, and Ahmed Abdelrahman, Creative Director and Founder of Thamayah fragrances tells us what it takes to build a brand in Fine on page 70. We also give you a curated guide to the best fragrances for FW22 in Warm Notes on page 64 and upgrade your at-home upkeep in Cult Skincare on page 66. The coolest kit you can buy is curated in The Boys Toys on page 12, the essentials for a modern man’s beauty regime in Well Groomed on page 16 and give you the best boots to put your best foot forward in style in The Edit on page 46. Style and substance are intrinsically linked, Emirates Man delivers both. Look smart, live smarter.
8 emiratesman.ae CONTENTS
p.10 Monitor News p.12 The Boys Toys – The latest gadgets to gear you up for the season ahead p.14 The Watch Addict –Abdalla Bin Dheyab, ‘The Timekeeper’, talks us through the four collectors’ pieces to invest in p.16 Well Groomed – Expert protection for tackling temperature changes p.18 The Modern Man –with Khalid Al Ameri p.20 The Runway Report FW22 p.34 The Hero Sweaters –Warm knits to keep you looking cool p.36 Everyday Heroes –Relaxed luxury timepieces p.46 The Edit – Heavy duty to refined for evening – boot wise we have you covered p.48 The Non-Conformist –Exclusive interview with Rick Owens p.50 Intelligent Craftsmanship – Bally’s FW22 collection p.54 Heritage – Tod’s for FW22 p.58 Leap of Faith –Hermès launches footwear for FW22 Fashion & Watches The Monitor 20 36 FALL/WINTER 2022
9emiratesman.ae p.64 Warm Notes –Cosy fragrances for Fall p.66 Cult Skincare –Your routine just got an upgrade for FW22 p.68 A Master of Innovation –Francis discussesFCo-FounderKurkdjian,ofMaisonrancisKurkdjianthelaunchof his new fragrance 724 p.70 Fine – Interview with Ahmed Abdelrahman, Creative Director and Founder of Thamayah fragrances Grooming p.78 The Academy – Al Ain FC is recognized as the most dynamically successful club in the UAE p.80 The Hospitality Maverick – Interview with Naim Maadad, Chief Executive and Founder of Gates Hospitality p.82 Personal Space – At home with Omar Al Gurg, Designer and Founder of MODU Method p.90 The Wanderlust – Aman Venice p.94 The Outliers – The very best independently run resorts around the globe p.72 The Archive – Classic images with the coolest history p.74 Private Office – Interview with César Habib, RollsRoyce Motor Cars ME & Africa Regional Director p.76 The Master Coach –Exclusive interview with José Mourinho Lifestyle 64 74 82 90
10 emiratesman.ae THE MONITOR – NEWS NEW SEASON, NEW STYLE Loewe’s FW22 collection features autumnal anchors of olive, khaki and neutrals mixed with the label’s signature leather craftsmanship and Anagram logo, preparing us for cooler days ahead. Workwear Jacket in wool Dhs9,250 Loewe; T tote bag in Anagram jacquard and calfskin Dhs5,800 Loewe THE HERO BUYS Cape Cod Watch, 41mm Dhs12,800 Hermès Cashmere-blend zipped sweater Dhs7,345 Tom Ford Errigal cotton jersey T-shirt Dhs1,458 The Row Z suede and Leather High-Top Sneakers Dhs3,359 CELINE HOMME Phantom Reactor Opéra de Paris Limited Edition Wireless Speaker Dhs6,560 Devialet Framed 2015 Stephen Albanese Hollywood Palm Trees Print Dhs823 Sonic Editions Exalted Eye Serum 15ml Dhs390 Aesop COMPILED BY: DAN ROBINSON THREE TO OWN TheTransitionFall/Winter The latest launches, new openings and hero buys
BARISIEUR TEA & COFFEE
ALARM CLOCK
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DYSON MORPH™SOLARCYCLEDESKLAMP
Not one to shy away from innovation, Dy son are now revolutionising the lighting in dustry with the powerful Solarcycle Morph desk lamp. The daylight tracking feature with featuring 3-point revolve motion al lows the light to reach 360° maneuverabil ity. The Dyson Lightcycle Morph adjusts its temperature and brightness to the daylight, providing the right amount of light de pending on your location. If all that wasn’t enough, the futuristic-looking SOLARCY CLE features its own Dyson link app, which allows you to set different functions such as study, relax, wake up, and travel security modes. An added USB-C charger all points to this being probably the last desk lamp you will ever purchase. Dhs3,689 Dyson
Your morning routine just got an upgrade, designed to start brewing at a specific time (that you manually set). The Barisieur Coffee Machine and premium alarm clock does pre cisely that. Wake up to the soothing sound of bubbling water and the smell of freshly brewed coffee. Featuring a walnut wood tray, glass mug, stainless-steel brew filter, and a mix of Scandinavian and timeless design, make the Barisieur an ideal addition to your bedroom or kitchen. Mornings will never be quite the same. Dhs1,950 Joy Resolve
All the latest gadgets to gear you up for the season ahead WORDS AND STYLING: DAN ROBINSON THE BOYS TOYS
MACBOOK AIR – M2
Remember when Steve Jobs pulled the MacBook Air out of a manilla envelope 14 years ago? Well, the MacBook Air has fi nally caught up with its siblings. Announc ing the launch earlier this year, the newly designed model has all the features of its predecessor, now supercharged with the first use of the M2 chip featuring advance ments in performance and efficiency, run ANGELL BIKE Not just a bicycle with handsome looks, the Angell bike is fuelled to support ad ventures. The sleek-looking electric bike is designed from premium aluminum, weigh ing in at 15kg making it a featherlight ride whether you’re on the racetrack or city cruising. Designed to be used, the bike has a tonne of gadgets such as the 2.4” custom izable touchscreen, which shows speed, pollution, and battery levels. Hyperbolic lights and indicators for better visibility and safety allow you to focus on the jour ney. With a maximum speed of 25km/h af ter a two-hour charge, Eco mode and app to track progress and calories live up to its claim as the world’s safest electronic bike. Dhs11,240 Angell
The Nothing Phone 1 is the latest piece of technology from London-based tech com pany “Nothing”. The highly anticipated phone is designed for function and simplic ity while focusing on its environmental im pact. Unique in design with a transparent casing, it showcases the seamless design and is constructed of 100% recycled aluminum. Adding substance to the device is the white LED lighting that illuminates notifications on the rear of the phone with fingerprint technology. It comes complete with a 50MP primary camera and 16MP rear camera and its exclusive “Nothing UI” software featuring up to 256GB of Memory – surely an excep tional piece of tech that wouldn’t look out of place in a Sci-fi movie. Dhs1,899 Nothing ning with a 18 per cent faster CPU. It does away with the tired wedge-shaped design in favour of a flat body like the MacBook Pro, standing at 11.3mm thick and weighing 2.7 pounds, making it thinner and lighter than it’s prior generation. Other notable updates include the return of the Mag Safe charger and boasting an 18 hour battery life. Once again, Apple draws us in while setting a new standard in tech. From Dhs4,999 Apple
NOTHING PHONE 1
THE MONITOR
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER –“ SILVER SNOOPY AWARD” ANNIVERSARY SERIES
ZENITH EL PRIMERO
Abdalla Bin Dheyab, “The Timekeeper,” talks us through the four collectors’ pieces to invest in for FW22
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The unique OMEGA Speedmaster pays tribute to the “Silver Snoopy Award” that OMEGA received from NASA astronauts in 1970 in recognition of the brand’s contri butions to space exploration, including the Apollo 13 mission. The 50th Anniversary timepiece is one of my most coveted pieces, featuring a 42mm stainless steel case, Dome scratch-resistant sapphire and crystal glass, and water resistance of 167 feet. It also comes with an interchangeable fabric strap which can be switched depending on the mood. The dial features a silver embossed Snoopy medallion on the blue subdial. A beautiful and charismatic timepiece to gaze at, spe cifically, the case back. Just turn it, engage the chronograph and wait for Snoopy to fly by the earth on his space rocket! Dhs39,450
The Watch Addict WORDS: DAN ROBINSON AND ABDALLA BIN DHEYAB
A3818 REVIVAL AKA “ COVER GIRL ”
The Zenith El Primero gets its nickname “Cover Girl” from being on the cover of the Manfred Rossler Zenith book named “Swiss watch production since 1865” The watch makers released the 1970s El Primo model back to watch enthusiasts with only 1,000 units produced. The timepiece features a 37mm stainless steel case and piston-style pushers staying faithful to the original, making it a great combination when worn for practicality or formal engagements. It also features a pulsometer and a tachymeter reader, which is handy for when I’m record ing sport and health activities. Dhs52,182
BLANCPAIN – FIFTY FATHOMS NO RAD As an experienced recreational diver, I look for readability, durability, and a timepiece that I can depend on underwater. The Fifty Fathoms No Rad combines all of the above with additional plus points of a perfect size and a rich diving history. First introduced in the mid-1960s as a diving aid used by German Navy combat swimmers featur ing a stamp with a “No Radiation” logo. This was Blancpain’s way of distinguish ing civilian divers from military divers. The watch pays tribute to the original – fea turing 100 hours of power reserve. Waterresistant to 300 metres and a 40.30mm diameter three-piece stainless-steel case with a thickness of 13.23mm. The large uni directional bezel is protected by Sapphire glass and is black with a unique cream co lour and SuperLuminova markings. How ever, this was a groundbreaking design fea ture for the original Fathom model of 1953. A true veteran of the sea. Dhs49,240
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MAURICE LACROIX AIKON #TIDE
It’s a great feeling when combining your hobby with something meaningful like the sustainability of the planet, which at tracted me to the Maurice Lacroix AIKON #Tide watch. The colourful watch is de signed from revolutionary technology that converts discarded ocean plastic waste into timepieces. The 40mm outer case is made from ocean-bound up-cycled plastic with a rubber strap. It’s also 10 ATM water re sistant which makes it ideal for most water sports. The price point is also accessible for those looking to invest in a Swissquality watch without the hefty price tag. Available in a multitude of colours, I chose white and blue to reflect my keen interest in water sports. Dhs2,755
16 emiratesman.ae THE MONITOR Expert protection for tackling temperature changes GROOMEDWELL WORDS: DAN ROBINSON Below: Super Anti-Aging Hand Cream Dhs231 Dr. Barbara Sturm; Bergamot Hand Cream Dhs60 C.O. Bigelow available at MR PORTER
17emiratesman.aeTHE MONITORRight:HinokiHand Lotion Dhs140 Le Labo available at MR PORTER; Bois Sauvage Hand & Body Lotion Dhs300 L’objet Left from top: Vanilla and Orange Peel Hand Cream Dhs92 Grown Alchemist; Restorative Hand Cream Dhs370 Sisley; Vetyver Hand Cream Dhs229 Byredo
WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
What do the first 30 minutes of your day look like, your morning routine? I wake up every morning for Fajr prayer and that is the start of my day. After that, I have a cold glass of water and a single shot of espresso while I try to figure out the day’s wordle. I then put on my sports clothes and head straight to the gym for a workout of weights and cardio. That is the anchor for my day to focus on my spiritual and physical health, it sets the tone for a day where I am centred and focused on the people and things that matter most. You’ve built an extremely successful busi ness and following. How do you balance the creative and commercial and do you feel par ticularly drawn to one side or the other? I feel that success in this business comes down to focusing on your strengths and building a great team of individuals who are better
SUPPLIEDIMAGE:
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Khalid Al Ameri is an incredible example of how you can drive a business to success while being a supportive partner, father and philanthropist MODERNTHE MAN
What advice would you give to your younger self? Life is not about waiting for the perfect job to find you, a perfect job doesn’t exist, and if it did nobody is just going to come and give it to you. Go out and find what it is you love to do, and that happens with trial and error. So write down all the things you think you would enjoy doing, then go out and try them until you find the things that make you really happy, then keep doing that until you become successful. Finding what you love to do in this life is about trial and error, not about waiting for the right thing to find you, so go get started.
Salama and I work a lot with government organizations and non-profits to support initiatives and people in need – it is the most important part of work. Our family and I have been truly blessed and we be lieve that the best thing we can do with our lives is to share those blessings with others.
“Being based in the UAE has been everything to my success, it has provided me and my family the education, the environment, the opportunities, as well as the safety and stability to pursue our dreams.”
19emiratesman.aeCOVER STORY than you at doing other things. I love script writing and acting, that is where I feel hap piest and where I feel I add the most value to our creative videos for our own platforms or for our clients. Funnily enough, even having done an MBA, I don’t really enjoy the business side of it all, the awkward ne gotiations and having to put a value on our product, which in most cases is me. So in short do what you do best, and build a team of great people and give them the space and freedom to do what they do best.
Did you always want to work for yourself? What was your earliest memory of driving towards this? As much as I learned from working in large organizations I never felt truly at home, and never had that feeling that I was doing what I was put on this earth to do, so in a way I always wanted to pave my own path and do work that made me come alive, in this case, entertaining people in all shapes and forms, whether that be MC’ing an event, writing a weekly column, hosting a TV series, making a video for social, doing a stand-up show, whatever it was if it made people smile and laugh I wanted to do it. My earliest memory of this was middle school as I always felt it was a superpower to be able to make people smile, my heroes growing up were Jim Car rey and Robin Williams, or their characters Ace Ventura and Mrs. Doubtfire. Watch ing those movies when I would come home from school after a hard day made me forget all the problems, and I wanted to be able to do that for other people. What have been the biggest challenges to date and how did you overcome them? Building the audience we have now on social media, it was probably the tough est challenge I’ve had to date. When I first started this journey there was hardly any money in the business, and even if there was I didn’t have the platforms or the au dience to even be considered for commer cial opportunities. I had a yearʼs worth of savings and time wasn’t on my side, I had to build something that could provide for a sustainable living for my family and me moving forward. I couldn’t get much work and was pitching shows to everyone and anyone that would take a meeting with me, but nothing seemed to happen. Having a partner who will build you up and give you the support you need when you feel like the world might be against you, was crucial for me to overcome my biggest cha lenges. I thank Allah every day for bringing Salama into my life, I wouldn’t be anywhere near where I am today without her. Second is work ethic, I made a video every day for 500 days, no excuses, I wrote the script, I filmed, I edited, I published, every single day and then repeated it the next day, that work ethic and the community we built through that work has built the foundation of what we have today. Last but certainly not least is to have faith, to have faith that Allah has a beautiful plan for my life and for my family, and it is my goal to live a life that does good in this world while being kind and helping other people, that is when I believe the doors of opportunity open for you to places you never dreamed were possible. The UAE is a region which supports entre preneurship. How has being based in this re gion supported your success? Being based in the UAE has been everything to my suc cess, it has provided me and my family the education, the environment, the opportu nities, as well as the safety and stability to pursue our dreams. The leadership has always prioritised the safety, security and growth of the people who live here, and when those basic needs are taken care of people have the opportunity and freedom to truly thrive. It truly is a blessing, and something I will never take for granted.
Salama and I have been on the ground with organizations in countries such as Bangla desh, Uganda, Iraq and Jordan, we have seen first hand the support the people need from us all, but more importantly, we have seen the impact of providing education, basic services, housing, schools, a chance to make their lives better so that the next generation does not have to struggle. Our family believes that everyone has the right to live a life of dignity, where they can pro vide a life for themselves and their families.
What is your take on social media and how to build a business in a positive way? I love social media, it has given people in media the opportunities to build careers and me dia empires on the back of their work and their own platform. When I first started I couldn’t get a job in media, luckily with platforms like YouTube or Instagram you can just get started and build your own community. I love the freedom of simply creating and publishing what I believe is the best and most entertaining work, with out the approval of others, all I have to do is hit publish and my work is out into the world and entertaining our community. With regards to businesses, I think so cial media is the most powerful tool for en gaging your audience and getting feedback, I also believe that every business should be in the “business of entertainment”, tradi tional advertising still has its place, but I feel that creatively entertaining your audi ence with your services and products, no matter what your business is, is the best way to make them fall in love with your brand, because you put their happiness and smiles first, regardless of whether they are buying your products or using your services. You’re a philanthropist. Tell us more about how you give back and why that is important.
We also believe that everyone can help in all ways, shapes and forms, so we are simply doing our part, and hope to inspire others to do what they can along the way inshAllah.
THIS PAGE (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT): JIL SANDER; FENDI; SAINT LAURENT; LOEWE RIGHT PAGE (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT): LORO PIANA; JIL SANDER; CELINE; LOUIS VUITTON
FW22REPORTRUNWAYTHEWORDS&STYLING:DANROBINSON
22 emiratesman.ae FASHION BOTTEGA VENETA TOP OPPOSITEFERRAGAMO;SAVATORERIGHT:PAGE:BRIONI GIVENCHY PRADA FW22REPORTRUNWAYTHE BOTTEGA VENETA
From polished leather trench coats and bomber jackets with edge to supple blazers in the softest leather, whether you opt for smart or casual this is the fabric that will last a lifetime once you invest. If you’re feeling bold – opt for alternative shades in deep burgundy and chestnut or make classic black and rich mahogany a safe bet for the long haul. For anyone into a futuristic feel, Prada added an oversized shoulder that felt every inch 90’s Sci-Fi.
LEATHER
SHEARLING
ETRO AMI HERM ÈS DIOR
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For FW22, we saw the iconic pieces on the perennial favourite runways from lapel detailing at Dior and Tom Ford to oversized hoods at Kenzo who incarnated a new take on the classic Aviator jacket. Fendi explored printing the brand’s infamous monogram on fuzzy large outerwear and bags, while Etro went one step further, covering the Italian brand’s vibrant sneakers.
25emiratesman.aeFASHIONJACQUEMUS;RIGHTANDBELOW:FENDI FW22REPORTRUNWAYTHETOM FORD
A core building block in your FW22 takes its form in every guise from fine-knit to chunky, oversized and home-spun. Turtlenecks as seen at Prada are a classic you’ll want to invest in, while AMI and Hermès opted for cable knit variations. A nostalgic handcrafted feel was seen at Dior, Etro and Bottega Veneta if you’re looking for an elevated take – make Brioni your go-to.
KNIT ETRO FW22REPORTRUNWAYTHE PRADA LEFT: SAVATORE FERRAGAMO; BELOW: BRIONI
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MARANTISABEL
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Technical fabrics and detailing gave a nod to the great outdoors and limitless adventure this season. Equip yourself with outsized quilted jackets, boots that reference a hikers dream and rock-climbing accessories as seen at D-Squared to leave you ready to conquer any mountain, metaphorical or literal. Alanui showcased ski boots and nomadic-inspired knitwear leaving you seriously slope-ready.
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI JACQUEMUS; TOP LEFT: ALANUI
ADVENTURERTHE
FW22REPORTRUNWAYTHE
Bucket hats are not only for summer. Prada, Hermès, and Celine, to name a few all chose to champion this as one key accessory of the season.
UNDERCOVER FENDI CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: FENDI, BRIONI, HERMÈS, FENDI;PAGE:OPPOSITEBRIONI
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Work from-home goers may tell you differently, but the suit is not dead A new wave of tailoring emerged for FW22, emphasizing broad shoul ders and a cinched waist. Sartorial double-breasted separates worn over oversized casual attire, seen at Tom Ford and Fear of God. Dunhill opted for a more precision-cut approach with oversized lapels.
THE TAILORINGNEW
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There is nothing chicer than head to toe white in winter. For FW22 the colour spectrum widened to embrace winter neutrals in the form of caramel, grey and cream. Causal sweats and hoodies layered under minimal over-coats in creamy shades seen at Fear of God while Artic white jeans and cable knits were anchored with noir linings and leather gloves.
BOTTEGA VENETA LEFT: FEAR OF GOD; BELOW: OPPOSITETOD’S;PAGE: BRIONI FERRAGAMO AMI
NEUTRALSWINTER
FW22REPORTRUNWAYTHE
34 emiratesman.ae FASHION Camel Hair Sweater Dhs12,420 Saint Laurent available at MR PORTER Patchwork Linen, Silk and Cotton-Blend Sweater Dhs4,477 Loro Piana Cotton and CardiganLinen-Blend Dhs663 Polo Ralph Lauren JacquardStripedBouclé Hoodie Dhs7,727 AMIRI Warm knits to keep you looking cool THE HERO
35emiratesman.aeFASHION LAURENTSAINTANDPIANALOROOPPOSITE:MISSONI;ANDGUCCIPAGE:THIS Wool-BlendCardiganJacquard Dhs3,783 Missoni Logo-Appliquéd Knitted Hoodie Dhs442 Fear of God Essentials HoodieCashmere-BlendLogo-EmbroideredZip-Up Dhs3,413 Burberry WORDS & STYLING: AMY SESSIONS SWEATERS Slim-Fit Jacquard-Knit Cotton and Cashmere-Blend Sweater Dhs4,541 Gucci
36 emiratesman.ae WATCHES WORDS: DAN ROBINSON & VARUN GODINHO Relaxed luxury timepieces that won’t break the bank –and take you smoothly into FW22 EVERYDAYHEROES
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TUDOR
WATCHES With a sibling such as Rolex, Tudor has class that runs in the family. A typical Tudor doesn’t need to display any fancy new tricks to grip our attention – just showing up is enough. However, the new Black Bay Pro goes much further than that with its 24-hour fixed steel bezel, 29mm diameter that sits comfortably on the wrist and an automatic winding Tudor Manufacture MT5652 movement. Add to the mix, options of a fabric, bracelet or hybrid rubber and fabric strap, and you have a COSC-certified chronometer that embodies effortless cool. BLACK BAY PRO
The Captain Cook which first debuted in 1962 was an excellent diving watch with a distinguished design, although it never did enjoy the spot light as much as the dive watches from some of its peers. That changed in 2017 when Rado relaunched the Captain Cook collection and its star has only been rising ever since. Earlier this year, we saw the High Tech Ceramic Diver version introduced and that was followed by this stun ning Over-Pole Limited Edition. Given that modern-day business travellers might well be 21st-century explorers, there’s a laser-engraved city inscription on the bidirectional bezel that can be rotated to align with the hour hand to easily tell the time in any of the 24 time zones mentioned on it. It features a manual-winding Rado calibre R862 movement with an 80-hour power reserve. Limited to 1,962 pieces, each of the pieces are numbered. This stainless steel watch ensures an affordable worldtimer that doesn’t play second fiddle to any of its peers.
RADO CAPTAIN COOK OVER-POLE LIMITED EDITION
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Breitling’s SuperOcean Slow Motion from the Sixties got its name owing to the fact that the chronograph hand would take a full hour to go once around the dial. This year’s new SuperOcean collection is a tribute to that collection and has a boxy minute hand and the absence of a date window and seconds hand. The new SuperOcean collection features a COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 17 movement and there are plenty of variants in the new collection. It includes four sizes (36, 42, 44 and 46mm), three case metals (steel, bronze, steel-gold), two strap options (rubber and metal bracelet), and six dial colours (white, orange, turquoise, black, blue and green). If it’s going to be a tough decision to narrow down on one, you can’t go wrong with the 42mm Kelly Slater edition limited to 1,000 pieces – the only limited-edition in the new SuperOcean collection – which is a 42mm timepiece with an orange dial and olive green rubber strap. You’re welcome.
WATCHES
SUPEROCEAN AUTOMATIC 42 KELLY SLATER
BREITLING
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BELL
RADIOCOMPASS 41
WATCHES
The latest entry from French luxury watchmakers Bell & Ross is a welcome addition to the brand's already impressive catalogue. The BR 03-92 Radiocompass is in keeping with the spirit of the iconic circle-within-a-square case we've come to know and love. The watch pays tribute to aeronautical instruments and is named after the onboard navigation tool in the cockpit that helps guide pilots in low visibility and aids night flying in extreme weather conditions. The technical wonder is crafted from matt black ceramic and measures 42mm wide as well as 10.40mm thick. It also features a black dial with a triangle indicator, and the Super-LuminNova markers in the skeleton hands are highly visible with a pop of neon guaranteeing optimal readability. It is engineered with a Calibre BR-CAL.302 automatic winding movement, a crystal sapphire face, 100m water resistance, and a durable black perforated rubber strap that make for a surefire conversational piece. & ROSS BR 03-92 emiratesman.ae
BREMONT JAGUAR C-TYPE
Starting from 1951, Jaguar built only 53 C-Types – consider yourself anointed should you happen to chance upon one in the wild today. The “C” in its name stands for Competition – think disc brakes on all four wheels, a lightweight aluminium body and an aerodynamic form that helped it win the gruelling Le Mans 24 Hours twice. Now, another firmly British powerhouse – independent watchmaker Bremont – recently debuted the 43mm Bremont Jaguar C-Type. The crown at 3 o’clock has a period correct Jaguar logo on it. The red accent on the dial is a nod to Smith gauges found on the C-Type, while the chronograph hand pays tribute to the needle from the C-Type tachymeter. Flip it over and you will see that the solid caseback has a fierce image of the Jaguar “Growler” hood symbol. Between that dial and caseback is an automatic chronograph BE-50AVcalibre which is every bit competition-worthy – and a winner too.
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WATCHES
In a world in which we’re all constantly connected, do you find yourself continually Googling what time it is halfway around the world to check on family, friends, and business commitments? Worldtimer watches have increased in prominence of late, enabling us to glance down without relying on a search engine. The Frederique Constant Worldtimer Native Edition is a prime example. The stylish piece impressively features nine native languages including Arabic, English, Chinese, Spanish, and Japanese, to name a few, and 24 cities. A mechanical in novation, the timepiece is handmade in Geneva by artisans and features a world map. It has a 42mm stainless steel case, crystal sapphire glass face, and it also has a water resistance of 50 metres. The ultimate companion for the distinguished globe trotter features a classy navy leather strap with a contrasting white stitch.
FREDERIQUE CONSTANT NATIVE EDITION WORLDTIMER
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BAUME & MERCIER HAMPTON 10641 “HOMMAGE À PIERRE SOULAGES” 44 emiratesman.ae
WATCHES
If you’re as much an art enthusiast as a watch collector, read on. Baume & Mercier have released a limited-edition incarnation of the brand’s classic Hampton watch called Hommage à Pierre Soulages. The design echoes one of artist Pierre Soulage’s most famous paintings, “The Outrenior.” Marrying the link between art and time, the iconic Hampton 10641 also takes its inspiration from the watchmaker’s historic models dating back to the Sixties and was initially inspired by the 1920s Art Deco era. Imagine wearing this watch to a Guggenheim opening or subtly under a tuxedo for a dose of understated elegance. Technical achievements include an automatic self-winding ETA 2892-A2 movement, water resistance of 50 metres, a power reserve of 42 hours, and a sand-blasted steel-DLC casing. Sword-shaped hands adorn the dial and the sandblasted case, both of which are perfectly paired with the alligator leather strap. Limited to 102 pieces, you will need to move fast.
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TAG HEUER
Hot from the collaboration with Mr. Ryan Gosling in the Netflix movie “The Gray Man,” the guys at TAG Heuer are spoiling us with a new limited edition of the classic Carrera model. Enter the Carrera Red dial, an intense and unexpected rendition from the Swiss luxury watchmaker infused with modern elegance and performance. The fiery crimson interpretation takes inspiration from The Heuer Carrera, first designed in 1963, defining the timeless style of TAG Heuer and setting the tone for the most refined sports chronograph collections. The Carrera Red Dial features three chronograph counters – hours, minutes, and a permanent second indicator all powered by the in-house chronograph movement, the Calibre Heuer 02, that boasts a power reserve of 80 hours. The watch sits comfortably on the wrist, presented with a black alligator strap and stainless-steel clasp. Limited to 600 pieces, it’s a true collector’s timepiece that will go down in history with its sporty character.
CARRERA RED DIAL LIMITED EDITION
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47emiratesman.aeFASHION Elasticated Side-panel Boots Dhs2,700 Alexander McQueen Wyatt Leather Chelsea Boots Dhs4,000 Saint Laurent Suede Chelsea Boots Dhs3,707 Tom Ford available at MATCHESFASHION Terra Boots Dhs4,650 Givenchy available at Level Shoes Leather Boots Dhs2,341 Common Projects Shearling-lined Grained Leather Boots Dhs5,372 Brunello Cucinelli Hopkins Suede Boots Dhs2,110 Officine Creative Heavy duty – boot wise we have you covered THE EDIT Leather Chelsea Boots Dhs4,523 Bottega Venetta Crofton Leather-trimmed Quilted Shell Boots Dhs1,703 Canada Goose available on MR PORTER WORDS & STYLING: DAN ROBINSON
Rick Owens is renowned for his avant-garde pieces. Here we discuss the balance between clothing and art with Owens and Bobby Chehrazi, Founder & Director of Closet Case WORDS: DAN ROBINSON
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What do the first 30 minutes of your day look like – your morning routine? RO: I am at the seaside in Venice right now – I take my computer to the terrace overlooking the Adriatic and drink coffee, read the news and respond to emails – I also study studio results from the day before and figure out what needs improvement or elimination… then I go to the beach. Tell us about the strategy for launching in the region? RO: No strategy at all - just finding a strong partner with a good track record.
BC: We’ve been working with Rick Owens for the past six years in this region since the day we opened our stores. We have seen the brand grow from strength to strength and decided to invest in it and open the first mono-brand store in MENA to cater to the heavy demand. The core DNA of Rick Owens remains prev alent season after season. How would you define this? RO: My clothes are about col lapse and control – they are speaking to an audience attracted to both and trying to find the right balance… and I like a very narrow range of colours… or – every once in a while, a mad ridiculous departure from that. What is your design process, and what in spired the latest collection? RO: My collec tions are a rolling along process that takes into account our current aesthetic climate
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49emiratesman.aeFASHION and tries to offer something appropriate for the moment but also proposes alternative options. Popular culture can be so narrow and cruel… blurring the edges of what is ac ceptable is a vote for tolerance and empathy. If you weren’t a designer, is there another av enue you would have followed career-wise?
Do you feel bricks and mortar stores are still essential to support the digital offering, and what do your customers value about these physical locations? RO: We will always need churches, mosques, museums, and theatres. Physical stores serve much the same purposes.
RO: I would want to be the head gardener at the Vatican. How do you maintain clarity in your life and work practice and how do you balance the creative and commercial sides of the busi ness? RO: I ruthlessly reduce, eliminate and release – I avoid emotional and physi cal clutter. How do you balance the creative and com mercial sides of the business? RO: They are the same – every commercial element is as considered as any runway piece – and I have partners, Elsa, and Luca, who have been with me from the beginning and are spec tacularly talented at protecting and culti vating our brand.
BC: Rick Owens is more than a click on the screen. It’s about a whole experience, which we try to offer in the brick-and-mortar stores. What advice can you give aspiring design ers? RO: The more work you produce, the more you can strip away and edit – and your voice will emerge for better or worse. What advice would you give your younger self? RO: Drink more water.
How do you stay relevant over time, and how does this include new ways of com municating in an ever-digital world with clients? RO: I credit tenacity and honesty. And if the product people buy is not good, no amount of explaining or promotion is going to make it last very long. BC: By staying true to our DNA. Commu nication is built on trust, which is based on our stores – providing a unique product and memorable experience. Do you see any global buying patterns within the GCC? RO: I don’t mean to be oblivious, but if I just concentrated on do ing what was popular, we would be a very different company. I am conscious that I have to be very selfish sometimes and pres ent what I am proud of. BC: We put our faith in Rick Owens and trust the way the collection unveils, which is reflected in the clients’ selections. Which pieces drive sales season after sea son? RO: Reducing what I do to just those pieces would feel like a very incomplete pic ture. I will let others summarize me. BC: It’s not a piece, it’s about the collec tion and theme of the season. The Rick customer knows what they want, but at the same time isn’t afraid to experiment with new innovations.
“My clothes are about collapse and control – they are speaking to an audience attracted to both and trying to find the right balance…”
INTELLIGENT
CRAFTSMANSHIP WORDS: AMY SESSIONS Bally’s commitment to sustainability is interwoven throughout the FW22 collection, continuing to preserve craft traditions while embracing innovation and eco-friendly processes
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A SENSE OF AUTHENTICITY AND HERITAGE SEAMLESSLY ENTWINE WITH MODERNITY AT TOD'S FOR FW22 ALL AVAILABLE AT TOD S
LEAP OF Hermès launches footwear for FW22 WORDS: AMY SESSIONSPHOTOGRAPHY: THUE NØRGAARD
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64 emiratesman.ae GROOMING Bukhoor 9 Elixir Eau de Parfum, 100ml Dhs950 Thomas Kosmala Ébène Fumé Eau de Parfum, 50ml Dhs1,019 Tom Ford Oud Satin Mood Eau de Parfum, 70ml Dhs1,087 Maison Francis Kurkdjian Sellier Night Veils, 50ml Dhs1,244 Byredo WARM NOTES
65emiratesman.aeGROOMING Le Vestiaire Des Parfums Tuxedo, 125ml Dhs1,100 YSL Black Saffron Eau de Parfum, 100ml Dhs990 Byredo Xocoatl Eau de Parfum, 100ml Dhs1,456 Fueguia 1833 Amber Sky, 100ml Dhs1,800 Ex Nihilo COSY FRAGRANCES FOR FALL WORDS: DAN ROBINSON
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Cold Plasma Plus+ Face, 30ml Dhs515 Perricone MD available at MR PORTER; Pollution Defence Booster Dhs340 111SKIN; DRx SpectraLite FaceWare Pro Dhs1,755 Dr Dennis Gross; Lip Balm Dhs60 Le Labo; Oil-Free Daily Moisturizer Dhs340 Tom Ford; The Body Cream Dhs520 Augustinus Bader; Super Anti-Aging Serum, 30ml Dhs1,082 Dr. Barbara Sturm; Exfoliating Face Wash Dhs290 The Grey; Dichotomy Eye Serum Dhs206 Triumph & Disaster available at MR PORTER
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A Master of Innovation Francis Kurkdjian, Co-Founder of Maison Francis Kurkdjian, discusses the launch of new fragrance 724 and what drives his entrepreneurial mindset
Perfumer
ness, something fresh, pure, energizing, but cocooning and comforting altogether. It is an urban scent, but not in the way you’d ex pect. 724 is a musky floral eau de parfum, composed of three main accords. It starts with a fresh urban accord as top notes, car ried by aldehydes and bergamot oil from Italy. It’s a luminous and even slightly me tallic accord. Then in the core notes you’ll find a floral white accord, driven by white flowers and jasmine absolute from Egypt. Finally, the base notes release a sweeter, cozier feeling. I called it “Comfortable Cot ton“ accord, it gives that reassuring aspect to the composition. The whole scent is like a bubble in the city, an imaginary blanket you want to keep with you while you face the day in the city. Is 724 a unisex fragrance and how do you see fragrance in the future – will they all be come unisex? 724 is a scent with a musky floral sillage that anyone could wear, in any season. It has this effortless chic, sophis ticated facet, it’s elegant, it empowers you as soon you spray it. Most of Maison Fran cis Kurkdjian’s fragrances don’t cater to a specific gender, actually. When I started Maison Francis Kurkdjian with Marc Cha ya, its current CEO, we crafted a fragrance wardrobe where anyone could be free to wear anything they like, depending on per sonality, moods, occasions, etc. And today people are less influenced by a label than ever, they want to be free to wear whatever fragrance they like. I personally cannot predict the future, but there is definitely a trend to shift away from labels and other diktats, in society in general and in the way people experience perfume, of course. Why did you decide to launch this particular fragrance now and how did you know it was the right moment? 724 is really fresh and re assuring, even sincere I would say. I think its modernity is all about that, sincerity. What is at the heart of the new fragrance 724 from Maison Francis Kurkdjian? I grew up in the suburbs just outside of Paris and moved to the city later. I lived in New York for about five years, at the beginning of my career as a perfumer, just after releasing “Le Male” for Jean-Paul Gaultier. Later, I had the op portunity to travel all around the world and to see many wonderful places. Sydney, To kyo, Seoul, Shanghai, New Delhi, Mumbai, Manila, Kuala Lumpur, Moscow, London, Berlin, Buenos Aires, Los Angeles. All these metropolises, despite being so different from one another, share a magnetic, uplifting en ergy, something that makes you feel that everything is possible. There is something about big cities that elevates you, electrifies you in a way. This new eau de parfum, 724, is all that. It is about the effervescence that big cities across the globe have in common. New York was part of my inspiration be cause I have a very precise memories from my years there, but 724 is not about New York only. When I visited for the first time, what struck me instantly was the rhythm of the city, its uplifting and thrilling en ergy. It’s a city “that makes sleep useless”, to quote Simone de Beauvoir. I walked the streets in the early morning, passing by the laundries and seeing the thick white vapour they released in the brisk morning air. It al ways put me in a good mood, it felt com fortable, serene. I wanted to translate this very enveloping, reassuring sensation in the silage of my fragrance. 724 has strength and balances freshness with modern sen suality. 724 has a kind of optimism that keeps you open minded. Which notes have you included and why are they special when layered together? 724 is like a protection in the city, the sensation you want to feel when you walk around the city that keeps you away from stress and daily troubles. I wanted the feeling of clean
Launching Maison Francis Kurkdjian with Marc Chaya, in 2009, felt right at the time. I don’t regret it. As we approach FW22 – how do the fra grances you wear differ throughout the seasons? I actually don’t wear fragrance! I only wear the one I’m currently working on.
It’s not the smell of a city. It gives you the sensation of being caressed with a form of infinity, which elevates your spirit and feel ings. I think we all need it, and it feels espe cially good in this particular moment. Do you feel that you have an entrepreneurial mindset that is always wanting to drive in novation? I was the first perfumer to open a bespoke fragrance atelier, in 2001, before Maison Francis Kurkdjian was opened. With the Maison, I was the first perfumer to launch an eponymous brand, through which I can really express myself and my creative vision. I wanted to work on the whole pro cess, not just the fragrance: the name, the inspiration, the packaging, the customer experience… So, I was always driven to do things differently, to explore new opportu nities and new ways of creating. Fragrance is my means of expression and it offers end less possibilities. I always look ahead. For example, we just announced a partnership with the palace of Versailles and Maison Francis Kurkdjian will be the patron of the Perfumer’s Garden, within the Trianon es tate. The garden will open in 2024, it will be open to the general public with workshops and guided tours. It will feature hundreds of plants used in perfumery and will allow us to share all our knowledge and passion about fragrance with the world.
What has been the most challenging mo ment to date and as an entrepreneur who has launched their own brand – were there ever any moments you wanted to give up and what kept you from doing so? I felt that I needed more space to express myself.
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The word Thamanyah is translated to “8” in Arabic. What is the significance of this number in relation to the brand? I come from a fam ily of eight brothers and sisters, and I’m the youngest (number 8), so you could say that this is my number. There’s also another funny reason. My friend Michele Lamy, who helped me launch the brand in Paris in 2011 and to whom I’m very grateful, was taking Arabic classes. She memorized, as an assignment, numbers 1 to 10 in Arabic but had difficulty recalling “8”. Hence, she asked me to name my brand Thamanyah to help her with her Arabic assignment, and I did. Today, I am very proud to tell you that Michele only re members “Thamanyah” and forgot about the rest of the numerals. Raison d’être fulfilled! How do you maintain clarity in your life and work practice? By reminding myself that Tha manyah was once a distant dream and that I would rather not be doing anything than this. What has been your biggest challenge creat ing Thamanyah, and how did you overcome it? Evolving the style across the product pro posal without compromising the brand DNA and keeping it consistent yet not tedious. This can be overcome by staying honest with yourself, designing from the heart, and keeping the beginner’s spirit alive. What does the future hold for Thamanyah? Where do you see the brand in the next five years? Home scents are next for Thamanyah perfumes, as I believe your home is eventu ally your world. I would love to see Thaman yah becoming a lifestyle brand combining ready-to-wear, accessories, perfumes, cos metics, and homeware with flagship stores in the region and abroad. Your fragrances are perfect for gifting – which works well for anyone? The high-end pack aging makes the entire line gifting friendly, but if I had to pick one, I would highly en dorse “When Night Comes”. Apart from be ing our bestseller, this scent has a genuinely noble personality. Dark yet serenely warm, mysterious yet strangely familiar, this mas terful combination of Oud, Amber, and To bacco evokes a blissful, almost psychedelic, experience in the senses.
70 emiratesman.ae GROOMING Fine Ahmed notestakesfragrancebrand.histellsThamayahandCreativeAbdelrahman,DirectorFounderoffragrances,storiesthroughunisexfragranceWediscussfineandwhatittoreachthehighinbusiness
WORDS: DAN ROBINSON
Oscar Wilde’s children’s book inspires the Happy Prince & Other Stories. Seductively innocent notes of rose Taif, black currant, in cense, and patchouli transport you instantly to Wilde’s magical settings of this unconven tional story of unconditional love and sac rifice. Fidelio, inspired by Beethoven’s only opera, is a potent scent of black currant, nagarmotha, cedar, and musk celebrating the union between Leonore and the impris oned Florestan and their story of liberty, freedom, and love. When Night Comes is in spired by the Dan Curtis’ 1970 motion picture “La Fiancee du Vampire.” Barnabas Collins, an infamous aristocrat, turns into a vampire and seeks a cure for vampirism so he can marry a woman who resembles his long-lost fiancée, Josette. An earthy, smokey scent of oud, tobacco, and white, amber, When Night Comes is a romantically dark, eccentrically seductive scent that commemorates a vam pire’s bizarre final act of unnatural love. Have you had any mentors on your journey, and if so, what advice did they impart? Ex perience is the only mentor, especially when you are an independent creative. That’s not to say I didn’t meet a few people who helped and to whom I’m thankful. What advice can you give aspiring entre preneurs? Do not overspend when you first start. Keep it tight. When you have an origi nal vision and a great eye for detail you can invent an outstanding product with what ever is available at the time.
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What do the first 30 minutes of your day look like – your morning routine? Two espresso shots, 20 mins on the massage chair while listening to a morning meditation, and body stretching with a resistance band. It takes more than 30 minutes, but it’s the most effec tive combination to cure morning crankiness. What was the catalyst to launch your fra grance brand, and how did you know it was the right time? The 2020 lockdown was an incredibly critical catalyst. It was the perfect reinvention moment, and fragrances were the next logical step since my family has a long history in perfume creation and production. What is the inspiration for your design pro cess and collection? Each perfume is based on my favourite narrative works, be it a nov el, an opera, a tv show, or a painting. It is an attempt to add an olfactory facet to those already complete and outstanding works. As an homage, each fragrance carries the title of the work that inspired its creation. Perfumery takes us on a sensory journey. Can you talk us through the fragrances in the col lection, and which are your favourite notes?
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What does your morning routine look like – the first 30 mins of the day? My first 30 minutes at home, I’ll have my morning cof fee and read the news headlines. It reflects my first 30 minutes at work – when I have my second coffee, review my daily calendar, and start replying to emails. You have worked in the region for many years. What has been the biggest challenge to date and how did you overcome it? I pre fer to reflect on them as opportunities, in stead of challenges. Every day comes with lots of opportunities to grow and evolve. If you have a good team (and trust me, I have a great one) every “challenge”, regardless of its complexity and size, can be handled. What is the code of Rolls-Royce as a brand, the DNA? As our founding father, Sir Henry Royce, once said: “Strive for perfection in everything you do”… “Small things make perfection, but perfection is no small thing”. I also try to live by that philosophy. The Middle East is an inspirational market when it comes to valuing and creating Be spoke, especially in luxury. Was this the driv ing factor behind launching the Private Office in Dubai? Rolls-Royce Motor Cars leads the way because we listen to our clients. We
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Private Office
Rolls-Royce Motor Cars has unveiled a world-first Private Office in Dubai, UAE. This outpost will be an extension of the marque’s world-renowned centre of luxury manufacturing excellence at The Home of Rolls-Royce in Goodwood, West Sussex, England. We spoke to César Habib, Rolls-Royce Motor Cars ME & Africa Regional Director about the ground-breaking move SESSIONS
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75emiratesman.ae locations to date? Plans are already under way to open more Private Office facilities. As for the locations, we unfortunately can not reveal anything at this stage. You will be among the first to know about the next confirmed location! How would you define a Rolls-Royce cli ent in three words? Connoisseur, aesthete, confident. I can quite often predict who is a Rolls-Royce owner when I meet them. about creating a Coachbuild vehicle, but a highly Bespoke motor car would typically take 12-18 months. Do you have VIPs who are collectors of these special pieces? Yes, of course, but discretion is part of our job. The Private Office Dubai is the first of a num ber of similar facilities planned for major luxury capitals of the world over the next few years. Are you able to reveal any confirmed know them, we talk to them, and we will continue to open our doors to The Home of Rolls-Royce in Goodwood, UK, showcas ing our latest initiatives and designs. The Private Office is an innovative way to bring Goodwood to the Middle East, allowing our clients here to meet with our design ers and commission their new motor cars. This was born from clients expressing their wishes and sharing their ideas. So here we are today, celebrating the first Private Office outside Goodwood, here in Dubai. As you rightly say, the Middle East has always been an inspirational market for the marque. Who can enjoy this service? Visiting the Private Office is by-invitation-only, either by Rolls-Royce directly or via our partners throughout the region. Our invited clients discuss their commissions with a dedi cated Lead Bespoke Designer and a dedi cated Bespoke Client Experience Manager. The Private Office focuses on three main programmes: Coachbuilding, Bespoke and Private Office commissions, and that what makes the facility so exclusive. You previously invited VIP clients to travel to Goodwood in the UK for this service. How will having an entity here change the game in terms of being able to scale the number of clients you can work with? Of course, noth ing can compare with a visit to The Home of Rolls-Royce in Goodwood. That said, by bringing Goodwood to Dubai, we are clos ing the gap and saving our clients time and effort, allowing us and our dealer partners to welcome more clients for this unique ex perience here in Dubai. You have a permanent member of the design team from Goodwood based here as part of this undertaking. Is the sky the limit in terms of design? Yes, 100 per cent. In fact, we can go far beyond the sky. Our only design limi tations are the laws of physics, or legisla tion, and when there is a conflict with safety measures. Then it’s the role of our Bespoke Designer and the Bespoke Client Experi ence Manager to advise the clients accord ingly and suggest new creative proposals. Are you able to give insight into some of the most intricate or special designs which have been created from the region? We have a lot of examples but stay tuned. We will be revealing an extraordinary Private Office commission in the coming weeks. How long does it take to craft a Rolls-Royce that’s designed though this process? It could take up to five years if we are talking
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“The Private Office is an innovative way to bring Goodwood to the Middle East, allowing our clients here to meet with our designers and commission their new motor cars.”
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CoachMasterThe his twotime LeagueChampionswinsand his unflinching approach to pitchsuccessfulwhatMourinhoweleadership,speaktoJoséaboutittakestobeontheandbeyond
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People often set limitations on their potential. How does one dare to break one’s own limits? I think the key is never be ing happy with what you have and always wanting more.
This is the most important thing. So, going back probably to my previous answer, the human side of it is the most impor tant thing you have to create empathy with the individuals. Effective performance management is essential to busi nesses. From your experience, what do people need to per form at a high level? Well, I’d say this is the kind of charac ter that makes the real champions. You know, to win, to win in a certain moment sometimes happens, to win for many years, to perform at a high level for many years like some players do is up to their resilience. It is also part of their DNA that they don’t like to lose, even on a training session, so maintaining their high performance is not even like a challenge for them. It is just part of their nature.
What are the lessons to be learned from coaching – can sports coaching translate into business/life? The lessons I learned from coaching; I would say that I learned long before I went into coaching. A great teacher I had at uni versity was always saying to me: a coach that only knows about football, knows nothing about football. You have to know fundamentally about the human being, and these are the words that I always use. Football players are not foot ball players. They are men that play football, and that was a big lesson that I learned from the beginning. The lessons I learned from coaching is that the human being is the hu man side of the sport and of course, that can translate into business and other areas of social life. I think this is the most important thing that defines leadership. Leadership is essential to be successful not only in sport. How to be a good manager then? The most important thing is that people have to follow you. And to follow you, they have to believe in you. They usually believe in you if they feel empathy and if they feel honesty. In my personal case as a leader, what that means to me, is exactly the responsibil ity of don’t let your people down. You have to be with them, and for them, all the time, they have to trust you.
If you want to win medals, you want to win more of them. If you score goals, you want to score more. If you made some money, you want to make more. Everything is about “more”. Never stop and, you know, that feeling has noth ing to do with age. It has to do with your own personality.
important thing is to really know their nature, to know ev erything about them, and then you can interact with them almost on an individual basis. I would say it’s kind of like when you go to a restaurant, and you eat by a la carte like they say in French. A la carte is basically what you have to do with the player. Don’t look at them like they’re all the same because they are different. Well, it is easy to say but more difficult to do. For a team, you must create empathy with everyone. You must make ev eryone feel important, you must make everyone feel part of the team, and for that, you have to know people very, very well. You need to know how to interact with any of them. You need to know how to make them feel important, to make them feel part of the team, to make them feel important to the team.
For two years now you have been an ambassador for XTB – a global online investment broker. What are the common values you share with XTB? Well, thought-out strategy, desire to win, the same applies to investing. You know, at the end of the day, everybody wants to win. In my case, it’s in football. In XTB’s case it is, of course, a different area, but you have the same desire to make achievements, learn every day, trying to be better every day. Sometimes it’s the feeling of intuition. But there is also a lot of study ing, preparation, and an investment in yourself.
“Sometimes it’s the feeling of intuition. But there is also a lot of studying, preparation, and an investment in yourself.”
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Sport as well as business can be unpredictable and some times things don’t work out as planned. How to stick to your strategy despite unfavourable circumstances? To build strategies is to try to reduce the unpredictability of every thing. Football, as well as many areas of our life, has un predictability. You cannot predict everything, but the more prepared you are, the more you put into the training. You can reduce that unpredictability, giving you the security that provides safety for your choices. You know that foot ball games have some risks of course, but you have to try to reduce that risk by preparing the best way you can. But sometimes you need to make difficult decisions. It’s hard to have a week without a difficult decision to make. Diffi cult decisions in terms of your leadership, difficult deci sions to try to win the match, to help your team to win the match. How to deal with that? You sometimes try to pre pare yourself, but at the same time there are moments when you have to trust yourself. You have to trust your analysis, but sometimes you have to trust your feelings, and funda mentally you also have to enjoy that risk. If you don’t enjoy that risk and what comes with it, you are never going to make it. So sometimes you have to do it and instead of feel ing huge pressure around you, just enjoy the situation. What is your best advice on dealing with pressure? I try not to feel strong pressure with my job. I think I have a good relationship with pressure. No pressure is not good. Lots of pressure – if you feel it deeply, it is also not good. So, you have to try to have a good relationship with it. My best advice on dealing with pressure? I think there is something more important than the pressure – it is your identity, what you feel, what you think, and your ideas. So do not be influ enced by the outside and the pressure you feel. Try to cope with it in a positive way using your knowledge and experi ence. Experience helps how to deal with it, but the most important thing is again to enjoy that pressure a little bit. You are the first coach in history to win the Champions League, the Europa League and the Europa Conference League with the teams you built. How to build and motivate a team, how to manage talents? It is to know the play ers, to know them well. All of them are different, and all of them need a different way to communicate, a different way to give feedback to them, to motivate them. The most
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Among the clubs, Al Ain has a record number of UAE Football League titles (14), HH President Cup (7), Emirates Union Cup (3), Joint League Cup (1), Abu Dhabi Football League (3) and the Pro League Cup (2). In 2003, Al Ain ruled Asian club football when it won the inaugural AFC Champions League. Al Ain will begin the 2022-2023 AD NOC Pro League Season with an away game against Ajman and will be wearing their newly released kit, designed by Nike. The team got together recently for the of ficial kit launch with players including Danilo Arboleda (left), Saeed Juma (cen tre), Mohammed Abbas (right) and from the youth academy Saif Al Jabri (left) and Saud Al Darei (right).
Al Ain Sports and Cultural Club was estab lished in 1968 in the City of Al Ain. Al Ain FC, affectionately known as “The Boss” is recognized as one of the most dynamically successful clubs in the UAE.
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The club is also encouraging the stars of the future and through the Al Ain Foot ball Academy, players from age six and above will be able to enhance their football skills and play the Al Ain FC way. The facil ity has been designed to help kids, juniors and young men learn the basics of football with professional instructors from Al Ain Sports & Cultural Club. In 2018, Al Ain FC made history and managed to reach the final of FIFA Club World Cup UAE when “The Boss” played against Real Madrid and lost the match to get the second place. Media around the world wrote about Al Ain’s achievement in 2018.
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The season kicks off in September with the first home game on 10th September at Hazza Bin Zayed Stadium, Abu Dhabi. Both home and away kits are available from the official Al Ain store and Nike stores in Al Ain Mall and Dubai Mall.
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The Hospitality Maverick Maadad, Chief Executive and Founder of Gates Hospitality, talks to us about what it takes to start a business from scratch and drive it to success in the F&B industry
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81emiratesman.aeLIFESTYLE anywhere else in the world? I think the big gest thing is its diversity. Dubai is so mul ticultural that wherever you are from, or whatever your favourite cuisine, you’ll al ways find something for you. There are not many cities in the world where you can have the restaurants of world-renowned celebrity chefs just a few doors down from restau rants that serve local favourites. I think it’s this mix of refinement and authenticity that makes the UAE so unique.
What inspired you to launch the Gates Hospi tality Group and how did you know it was the right time? Having worked with large pres tigious organisations (such as Six Senses and Minor Hotels) for decades, I was ready to step out and start my own. My network, global experiences, exposure to development, operations, owner relationships, commer cial understanding, holistic wellness, track record, and ambitious nature drove me to branch out and launch Gates Hospitality.
SUPPLIEDIMAGE: “Life is very good at throwing endless hurdles at us, and those who are patient, knowledgeable, and tactful can navigate most curveballs. [...] Agility and nimbleness are critical to the times we live in.”
What would you say is the key to success when it comes to building and maintaining a successful business? Never standing still. No matter how big you grow or how much income you generate, there’s always the op portunity to do more, so complacency isn’t something that you can let creep in. If you stand still, you are essentially going back
What do the first 30 minutes of your day look like, your morning routine? A 5km run that clears my head and centers my thoughts, followed by a cold shower and 20 minutes of BBC news, so I get an update on global happenings. Can you talk us through your career? It has certainly been diverse! I have almost 30 years of experience in the hospitality indus try in Australia, Asia, and the Middle East.
You’re responsible for a team of over 700, how do you keep your teams inspired and mo tivated? As we’ve grown larger, I’ve focused on remaining accessible. Too often, there are too many layers between management and staff on the ground, which is dangerous for two reasons. One, you give off a perception of sitting in an ivory tower, which can alien ate the people who deliver your vision, and two, you lose a sense of the reality of how things are. Being open to new ideas from my team is hugely important to me, and often, they are some of the best ideas too. I think it’s also essential to get the recruitment pro cess correct in the beginning, and not just recruit because of talent but also because of a passion for being in the industry.
It also helps that Dubai is filled with likeminded entrepreneurs, and so being in an environment that makes you think, helps generate new ideas, and has a lifestyle that naturally encourages networking, is one that can only help new businesses flourish.
I am now the Chief Executive and Founder of Gates Hospitality, a home-grown hospi tality group based in the UAE, with awardwinning concepts such as folly, Bistro Des Arts, and Reform Social & Grill. I was Managing Director for both Six Senses and Minor Hotels before setting up Gates Hos pitality in 2010; two roles (amongst many others) that allowed me to gain significant operational and commercial experience as a leader, as well as nurture significant owner and stakeholder relationships. Since then, I have witnessed tremendous industry growth and gained a deep cultural under standing of the ways of this region, allowing me to support both businesses and owners. Your career in the hospitality sector spans 38 years in multiple regions, what does it take to succeed in having such a long-standing career in an ever-changing industry? Adapt ing and embracing change. Each region has unique ways of working, with its opportu nities and challenges. Instead of fighting them, I’ve always tried to develop a deep cultural understanding of the place I am in. There is no better example of change than Dubai over the past 20 years. While tourism numbers have skyrocketed, so has competi tion. So, we must continue to be at the fore front of innovation in what really is a city of both the present and the future. What first inspired you to re-locate to this re gion? I was invited to join the pre-opening F&B team of Burj Al Arab – and the rest, as they say, is history. I come from a Middle Eastern background (but was raised in Aus tralia), so I always had my eye on the region growing up. Now, with how brilliant the growth of Dubai and the UAE has been over the last few years, is there anywhere else any of us would rather be?
What are the hurdles you’ve experienced throughout your career and how did you overcome them? Life is very good at throw ing endless hurdles at us, and those who are patient, knowledgeable, and tactful can nav igate most curveballs. Be it the pandemic, global political challenges, extreme weather, and the like. The key is to step back, draw up a plan and have the entire team involved to execute. Agility and nimbleness are critical to the times we live in. What piece of advice would you give to someone starting out and building their own business? Go for it! Business formation in Dubai is a relatively simple and speedy process when compared to other countries around the world, and the infrastructure is there to help make your business a success.
What are the next plans for growth and how do you maintain quality when scaling? The success of any organisation depends on its leadership and market understanding. As the market evolves, I keep exploring angles where we can continue to innovate and complement our core services. Recent ly, we have partnered with TRIBE Creators, a hotel & F&B consultancy group. Offering potential new F&B and hotel brands an A-Z of services from design, operations, hiring, and more, Tribe Creators has been running for over 15 years and has accumulated a great amount of expertise, knowledge, and clients in the Region. I’m looking forward to seeing what sup port we can offer and what new concepts we will develop together.
You have a large portfolio of restaurants, what sets the UAE F&B scene apart from ward, especially in a fast-paced environ ment like Dubai, where change happens almost daily – and secondly, understanding that relationships are key. Whether that’s the relationship between yourself and the client, in our case, the thousands of people who dine with us each year, or the relation ship between yourself and your staff, you won’t get very far without spending time nurturing both.
What was the catalyst to launch your brand, and how did you know it was the right time? I initially started designing pieces of furniture in my free time for fun, and they were mostly articles that encouraged some form of inter
Your space has a unique interior and cultural identity. Where did you find your inspiration when concepting and creating the space? When I first started putting the space to gether, I knew that I wanted most of my inspiration to come from a 70s home, and the perfect example of that was my grand father’s house. I remember how tactile his home was and how everything had a texture and feeling, and all I wanted to do was help
Personal Space home with Omar Al Gurg, Designer and Founder of MODU Method
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What do the first 30 minutes of your day look like – your morning routine? The first half hour of the day consists of waking up and getting ready for the gym. I like to wake up at 6:30 am and be at the gym by 7:00 am; it helps set the tone for the rest of the day and keeps my mind clear throughout.
LIFESTYLE action. What I was trying to do was solve minor inconveniences that I had experi enced throughout the day through furniture that was also visually appealing. To be hon est, I didn’t know when the right time would be to launch a brand (seeing as it launched right after the peak of Covid-19), but I did know that I wanted to debut my first two pieces during Design Week. Everything fell in place, and the feedback MODU received from people was tremendous. What is the inspiration for your design pro cess and latest collection? My main inspira tion comes from the need to solve problems, and I aim to help people create somewhat of a sentimental relationship with the pieces they purchase. All the pieces are inspired by design in the era between the mid-century (1940s-the 50s) and the 80s. When we de sign a new piece, such as Shelly (our new est member of the MODU family), we really want it to do more than one thing and aim to make the piece as interactive as possible. You showcased at the UAE Designer Exhi bition Downtown as part of the 2021 install ment of Dubai Design Week. Tell us about that experience? To be given the opportuni ty to showcase at the UAE designer Exhibi tion that year was amazing. MODU had the pleasure of being surrounded by many other talented designers. We all got to know each other and were introduced to several people already in the industry. The experience was eye-opening and fruitful. Because of the UAE Designer Exhibit, MODU got great coverage in the press and instantly recog nized as a brand with lots of potential. Have you had any mentors on your journey, and if so, what advice did they impart? I have had the privilege of having several mentors along my journey. I take as much advice as I can when it comes to self-development and career-driven decisions. Some valuable pieces of advice I have received are: “The more time and effort you pour into some thing that you love, the better the outcome will be”, and “Things are never finished, and there is always room for development. You have to know when to stop.” What advice can you give aspiring entrepre neurs out there? The most important part of starting a business is to know why you’re creating it. That will drive you and help you grow not only as a business but as a person.
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other people feel at home and a bit nostalgic when they came over to MODU’s space. The main aim of the space is to feel like you’ve been put in a time machine and transported to a different time altogether. How do you find the balance between your architectural day job and Modu Method?
What does the future hold for MODU Meth od? Where do you see the brand in five years?
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MODU aims to create a convenient lifestyle for people and produce pieces that last life times. We don’t want to stick to just furni ture. We want MODU to be able to produce whatever it feels is going to make people’s ex perience more pleasant. We want to be able to change the way a person perceives their day for the better, all through interactive objects and spaces. In five years, MODU will hope fully become a design house and practice that will make a social difference and create a strong community that revolves around a happy and convenient way of living.
Every day is different. Some days are slow, and some are very busy when I’m at the of fice. On slow days I generally have a bit of a break between my day job and MODU, but on packed days, I find myself coming to the studio directly after my work is done. Gen erally, the days are long but enjoyable, and I try to finish up some work over the weekend so that it doesn’t get in the way of my day job during the week. Finding a balance be tween the two is difficult because of the dif ferent paces of work daily, but I’ve learned to become more flexible and lenient when switching between the two roles. After studying Architecture, you mentioned you joined the UAE military. How has this shaped your routine and how you approach your work? Yes, as an Emirati, I had to do my National Service. During the service, I learned to adapt to different scenarios and situations very quickly, which is handy when it comes to work ethics, especially with a constantly changing and developing schedule. I’ve even created a habit of sketch ing during my free time, which is useful for quick conceptual design and brainstorming. There were also intense times during my service there, allowing me to fixate on cre ating pieces that would make people’s daily lives more convenient. What has been your biggest challenge cre ating MODU Method, and how did you over come this? There were a few challenges along the way, but I think one of the more significant challenges was the manufactur ing process. Sometimes we design an object in a certain way, which challenges the crafts manship of the manufacturers available in the country. This challenge isn’t always well received, and people are stuck in their way of doing things until they see the potential when pushing themselves to make articles outside of their comfort zone. Once you have the trust of a specific manufacturer or pro ducer, they are more receptive to your work and will willingly try to solve problems that may arise because of the product’s design.
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THE STAY Aman Venice’s Rooms and Signature Rooms, which vary in size and configuration, feature works by a number of Italy’s great est artists – including 16th-century architect Sansovino and 18th-century painter Tiepolo. Contemporary furnishings complement au thentic silk wall coverings, chandeliers, wood panelling, chinoiserie and painted ceilings, while many Suites offer Grand Canal views.
THE DINING Arva is Aman’s tribute to Italy’s rich culinary heritage – an inventive and sustainable ap proach to cooking using the finest ingredi ents of the season. Its name is taken from the Latin term for ‘cultivated land’, a reflection of the kitchen’s philosophy of making the best of soil and sea. Each day at Aman Venice, Arva’s chefs bring their instinctive under standing of flavour to produce sourced in and around the lagoon, to prepare bold, heartwarming and authentically Italian dishes that can be shared among family and friends.
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The story of ÀNI Private Re sorts began back in 2010, when the group was founded by arts patron and philanthropist, Tim Reynolds, bringing the mean ing of bespoke, private travel to the next level. The resort group now consists of four properties in Thailand, Anguilla, Sri Lan ka and the Dominican Repub lic. ÀNI Dominican Republic is located on the island’s north coast, offering an ultra-exclu sive stay for up to 28 guests. With a team of 30 staff mem bers, the concept of each ÀNI stay is to fine-tune it to the standalone group’s needs from dining experiences to immer sive cultural experiences, spa treatments, fitness and more. dominican-republicaniprivateresorts.com/ani-
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The Goring Hotel was founded by Otto Goring in 1910 and has been run by the family for over a century. The hotelier had his sights set on a plot of land right near Buckingham Palace, which officially became the home of The Goring Hotel on March 2, 1910. Now under the leadership of Jeremy Goring, the hotel has also been a favourite of royalty throughout the years and even had a Royal Warrant granted back in 2013. Complete with 69 luxury suites and rooms, it embodies true “English luxury” right in the heart of the coun try’s capital city. thegoring.com
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The Mark Hotel, located on the Upper East Side of New York City, has nearly a century-long history. First opened in 1927, the hotel underwent a major revamp in 2006 after being purchased by Turkish entrepreneur Izak Senbahar of Alexico Group. Complete with 106 rooms and 46 suites, the hotel regularly plays host to A-list guests, particularly for the Met Gala, such as Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, Emily Blunt and more. Described as the city’s “most boldly lavish hotel”, a stint in New York City isn’t complete without a stay at The Mark. themarkhotel.com
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Luxury hotel group Habitas was founded by Oliver Ripley, Kfir Levy and Eduardo Castillo back in 2014 with the aim to bring a like-minded community togeth er with a love for travel, connec tion and authentic experiences.
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“We were building something for ourselves, an experience that didn’t exist,” Ripley previously told Emirates Man. The first lo cation the group opened was its Tulum property, back in 2016.
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The property features a mixture of jungle rooms, pool rooms, ocean front rooms and ocean breeze rooms, all of which are designed to “coexist with na ture”, built with sustainability in mind, using materials with no impact on its surrounding environment. The Tulum-based resort encourages its guests to immerse themselves in the local culture and experience through music, wellness, adventure, art and more. Eight years since launching, the group now has five properties under its name, with six more set to open soon. ourhabitas.com/tulum/
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