24 minute read
scent p
Diffuse
Give your home a signature scent
WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS
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A Fragrant Blend
Co-founders Marina Rabei and Markus Zbinden share their inspiration behind the brand AVANTCHA Tea and how it honed its mission to advance the tea experience
What do the first 30 minutes of your day look like, your morning routine? MR: I wake up between 5:00-5:30 and have a glass of hot water. While my co ee is brewing (yes, I do have a co ee a day) I get dressed, pick my podcast or audiobook and go for a 40-minute walk. I then take a shower, have my breakfast while reviewing my daily tasks and I’m in the o ce by 8am. MZ: Whenever possible I spend some time on the beach in the morning and then enjoy an espresso on the balcony before starting my WFH routine. In the morning, I usually work from home as I’m talking to our partners in Asia before they close for the day. How would you define the DNA of AVANTCHA? Integrity, design, culture and attention to detail are in AVANTCHA’s DNA. Since our inception in 2014, we personally travelled the world to source the most flavourful and cleanest ingredients to make up our teas and tea blends. We believe in organic and natural farming and we invest a lot to provide organic and sustainable luxury to our customers. When it comes to quality we are total control freaks – from the tea garden to the cup which is under our control. We are obsessed with minimalism and functional design and our main mission is to combine ancient tea culture with a modern tea ceremony. Which have been the largest challenges since launching the brand and how did you a chat with our tea artists. Those events were super popular and we hope to be able to start them again soon. Another challenge was certainly the sudden loss of revenue at the beginning of the pandemic. Fortunately, we have other revenue channels apart from hospitality and airlines, such as corporate gi ing and direct retail which allowed us to continue our business and expand our team further. How has the brand grown and which platform has supported that growth the most? We’ve grown organically through word of mouth marketing and perseverance. In the first 3 years, it was Markus and I that visited clients, met the chefs, the baristas and F&B managers. We built connections with our clients and provided them the products and services they needed. We started our business by supplying teas to cafes and restaurants, then government o ces and later luxury hotels. We grew serving from 40 business clients in 2014 to over 400 clients in 2021, most of it via recommendations. There wasn’t a platform that accelerated our growth, as AVANTCHA was only sold via our own website, and only a few months ago, we’ve extended our o ering via selected retailers like Tavola and Crate & Barrel. A few factors that made a considerable push include a pop-up store in The Dubai Mall, our Tea Bar in Al Quoz which was opened back in 2019, and developing a collection of Ramadan gi s for Cartier in 2020 which went into the homes of a uent families in the UAE and KSA. How do you constantly innovate with new blends? Inspiration is everywhere. At times, clients commission us to develop blends inspired by perfumes. Recently we developed 3 rose tea blends – a fresh rose, a fruity rose and smoky rose. Other times, it’s an experience, a feeling that is translated into flavour. We, humans, perceive flavour as an emotional record of the past, every time we taste something we are looking for an analogy of the things we know. For this reason, understanding cultural preferences play a huge role into blends creations, blending for the central European market is very di erent to blending for Middle East or Asia. What are the key preferences in terms of blends across the GCC? We are lucky to have access to such a diverse population here in GCC. Every culture group has its tradition, but preferences overcome them? Challenges are the main are very wide. We’ve noticed an increased reason for us to advance, to innovate and interest in white teas and botanicals in the become more e cient. recent year. As a base rule, we have 2 cus∙ An ongoing challenge for us is to develop tomer types: sustainable packaging, as it is always in ∙ The purists – the ones loving single oriconflict with product shelf life and design. gin and rare teas: most loved teas are the We have a research team who is constantly Organic Japanese Gyokuro, the White experimenting with the latest degradable Bud Silver Needle & the Organic Matcha packing materials to make sure we are al- Ceremonial Grade. ways on top of new packing technologies. ∙ The avant-gardes – the ones loving ∙ When we launched AVANTCHA, the mar- bright and more experimental teas and ket for specialty teas was almost non-exis- botanical blends: most popular being the tent in the region. It was a challenge to get Rush Hour Berry, the Rose White and people to try unusual and unknown teas, Oriental Moments. and convince them to pay a premium price Which blends consistently drive sales? Certag for them. We launched a series of free tea emonial Matcha grades, Rose White, Rush events, anyone could come in, taste and have Hour Berry and all types of Mint.
IMAGE: SUPPLIED
Tell us about the biodegradable packaging material? We believe luxury must be sustainable. AVANTCHA teabags have always been biodegradable, made from a plantbased material called polylactic acid (PLA) and recently we’ve also made them GMO free. They are made from sugar cane and are 100% industrial compostable in 6 months. These are not made from petroleum and will not leak harmful plasticizers into your cup. As for the teabag sachets itself, we have just launched a new material which considerably reduces the layers of plastic. All our luxury gi boxes are produced in the UAE using FSC certified materials or recycled paper. Talk us through the process of producing fragrant teas? Fragrant tea blends start with a base, typically a large surface or an absorbent leaf. White teas will work with so , gentle flavours like peach, rose or pear. Green teas will blend well with fruits and some light spices. Black teas are the most versatile, you can add any spice, fruit or flower, the idea is to contrast flavours or complement them. To intensify the aroma of some blends, we add natural flavours such as bergamot for the ever-popular Earl Grey tea. Flavouring is basically a concentrated essence or oil. At AVANTCHA we work with only natural, they are lighter but taste like the real thing and are produced from real fruits and spices. A couple of years ago, we developed a bespoke blend for Waldorf Astoria DIFC, the task was to create a blend true to the hotel’s rich legacy. While researching, we’ve discovered that you? MR: The scent of chamomile brings Bronx Cocktail, the notorious gin cocktail, back loads of childhood memories, my mum was created at WA New York around 1930. made me chamomile on all occasions, it was We’ve broken down the flavour components the remedy for everything. The aroma of hay of this cocktail and blended it into a tea. present in many white teas, and my fav YunThe result is Bronx A ernoon Excite, a nan Wild Buds, takes me back to my RusSencha green tea, with notes of bitter or- sian grandma’s porch a er the rain. ange, juniper and vermouth (alcohol free). MZ: Drinking Pu-erh reminds me of the forWhich are main tea plantations you source est in Europe, especially a er the rain. Puyour tea from globally? We source herbs and erh has this rich earthiness and the smell tea leaves from over 40 farms, most promi- of the brewed tea reminds me of walking nently from China, Japan, India and Egypt. through the wet forest in autumn. This type This is ‘The Fragrance Issue’ – which spe- of tea gave me the inspiration and motivacific scent evokes childhood memories for tion to start a tea business.
The Wanderlust
Immerse yourself in an aromatic, sensory experience at these luxurious resorts
Below: Fuchun Resort, Hangzhou, China; Blanket Hotel & Spa, Munnar, India; Right: Ceylon Tea Trails, Sri Lanka
Elewana Arusha Co ee Lodge, Tanzania This resort is hidden amongst one of Tanzania’s largest co ee plantations. Comprising of 30 Plantation Houses that radiate out into the evergreen coffee fields, Arusha Co ee Lodge has been designed around the original landowner’s home that dates back to the early 1900s. For more information visit elewanacollection.com
Ceylon Tea Trails, Sri Lanka Former residences of British tea estate managers, this Sri Lankan Resort has now been converted into opulent bungalows which make the Ceylon Tea Trails perched at an altitude of 1250 metres in the Ceylon tea region. When visiting, guests can replace their usual morning co ee routine and immerse themselves in the delicious teas of the region. The central Sri Lankan Ceylon Tea Trails sit on a working tea estate, and use the nearby resource to o er quality brews and tea infused cuisine. For more information visit resplendentceylon.com
IMAGES: SUPPLIED Fuchun Resort, Hangzhou, China Set in the Chinese countryside, two hours from Shanghai, Fuchun Resort is tea resort which embodies the true meaning of tranquility, peace and refinement. The Hangzhou region is famous for its tea, which the resort regularly pays homage to, and guests can even take part in harvesting of the tea, but only in April and May when it takes place. However, regular tea appreciation sessions take place at the resort all-year round and guests can relax in the resort’s luxury spa, enjoy the walking trails and take part in Chinese calligraphy and painting workshops. For more information visit fuchunresort.com
Mayfair Tea Resort, Siliguri, India This resort is India’s first Boutique Tea Resort which welcomes everyone to “an experience of luxury that is unlike no other”. The structure was built in the 16th century with Tudorstyle architecture and features vintage furnishings, classic centuries-old collectibles, chequered black and white flooring carved with Italian marble. Guests are encouraged to immerse themselves in the history of tea in the region with many di erent activities available. For more information visit mayfairhotels.com/mayfair-siliguri
Blanket Hotel & Spa, Munnar, India On a leafy hill station surrounded by tea plantations in Munnar, India, this resort immerses its guests in the lush greenery of the region. With 42 rooms, the hotel encourages its guests to truly switch o and enjoy all that nature has to o er in the region. For more information visit blanketmunnar.com
An exceptional edit of fragrant menus
WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS
Scalini Scalini continuously takes patrons on a sensory journey with its menu and at its venue located in Four Seasons Jumeirah. In particular, the restaurant focuses on tru e, particularly when white tru e – which grows in the forests around Alba in northwest Italy – is in season from September to December. THE HERO DISH
Tagliolini al Tartufo Nero with parmesan sauce and black tru e
Tagine Indulge in the flavours of Morocco at Tagine, located in the One&Only Royal Mirage Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach. Notable aromas that can be found at this restaurant include scents of cinnamon, sa ron, cloves, ginger and nutmeg, making for a fragrant experience in all dishes. THE HERO DISH
Tangia Marrakchia – braised lamb shanks in an array of spices and garlic
Mimi Kakushi Inspired by the 1920s era in Osaka combined with modern art and Western fashions, Mimi Kakushi fuses a plethora of flavours from Japanese classics to putting their own stamp on traditional dishes. THE HERO DISH
Wagyu beef tataki with yuzu daikon, spring onion, lime tenkatsu, fresh tru e & tru e ponzu
Pad Thai Immerse yourself in the ‘five tastes of Thailand’ – bitter, salty, spicy, sour and sweet – at Pad Thai located in Jumeirah Al Qasr, with the restaurant serving aromatic traditional dishes from the region. THE HERO DISH
Gaeng Panang Goong – tiger prawns, creamy red curry sauce, ka r lime leaves, peanut and red chilli
Shanghai ME Dine at this DIFC restaurant which takes the culinary traditions of East Asia and combines them with a contemporary flair. THE HERO DISH
Seared Tuna with Coriander & Green Chili
Pierchic Tasteful Aroma Dine waterside at this hotspot and immerse yourself in the flavour-filled aroma of Italy. THE HERO DISH Gillardeau Oysters
IMAGES: SUPPLIED
Fragrant Fusion
Outstanding Burj Khalifa views combined with a fusion of fragrant ingredients at CÉ LA VI, Executive Chef Howard Ko discusses why this sky-high restaurant is the culinary must visit
IMAGE: SUPPLIED
WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS
Can you talk us through your career history? I have worked in hospitality my whole life and have never done anything else. I began at 15-years-old washing dishes and making sandwiches and then went to Cordon Bleu in Pasadena, California for baking and pastry. I worked as a pastry chef for a year and then went to The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York City. From then on, I only worked at Michelin Star restaurants for about 14 years. Restaurant Daniel**, Picholine**, DB Bistro Moderne, because I wanted to experience high volume, Melisse Restaurant**, French Laundry*** and Restaurant at Meadowood***. I always believed I was never good enough, I think that’s why I always worked on my cra and worked at great restaurants, rather than looking at a paycheque. On my vacations, if I had any free time, I would stage at restaurants as well, these include; Saison***, Benu***, Atelier Crenn***, Alinea*** and Dabous*. Until this day, I still feel I don’t know enough and push to get better and will always have this need to get better at my cra . Where does your love for food and ingredients come from? I love how food can make you feel. When you get to a certain point in your cra you can make a dish that can invoke emotion. By making something that can bring a person back to their childhood, and intrigue by the way the dish is presented with tableside service. When you have the perfect bite that makes you just want one more during a tasting menu, is when you know you nailed that dish for the guest. What do you love about what you do? I love mentoring young chefs. It’s our responsibility to pass on knowledge and share your philosophy with your cooks to make a lasting impression and to have that legacy, so when it’s their turn to become chefs, they will remember lessons and take that with them forever. I love seeing how they improve and grow as chefs with confidence. I always tell my team that I hope to read about them one day in an article, it would make me very proud because I know they have it in them. I also tell the women in my kitchen the harsh reality that it is a maledominated profession and I encourage and empower them every day. I want to be there for them to let them know they have what it takes to be good as anyone if you put in the work.
What brought you to Dubai? Chef Joseph, CÉ LA VI Group’s Executive Chef, was my friend and roommate when we worked at Restaurant Daniel in 2006 – I was 20-years-old at the time. We were so young back then but always kept in touch. I was an Executive Chef for a hotel and opening restaurants in San Francisco and one day I get a call from Chef Joey and he o ered me the position to open CÉ LA VI Dubai. It was a scary thought, literally being on the opposite side of the world but I am so grateful I took the opportunity. I look at food in several di erent scopes. It’s also have a great supporting cast at CÉ LA not only the flavour combinations but also VI from my GM David Lescarret, Marketing how you treat an ingredient. Manager Hoda Ghavidel, Guest Relations For example, smoking and drying out a Manager Ettiene Du Plessis, Assistant GM leg of lamb for 3 years so you can shave it Will Leekulcharoen who all are great team- like bonito flakes, or serving a guest a dish mates that support me. I think the F&B in- of heirloom beans and braised seaweeds in a dustry here in Dubai is amazing. It is still a roasted turnip broth. Or, serving the piece of young culinary city, but people are evolving lamb that you have spent 3 years perfecting in taste and are more open to a wide range shaved tableside into your beans to give you of flavour combinations. So, chefs here are an intensified lamb essence, these are the being more and more adventurous with their details that create one-of-a-kind dishes. cuisines and flavours. Who would you say your chef inspiration is? What are the hero dishes at CÉ LA VI? The All the chefs I have worked for, I have a little black tru e sushi rice risotto with butter- part of them inside me. Sal Marino was my nut squash, beech mushrooms and parme- first chef who is still my mentor. Josiah Cisan foam. It has been a hit and seems to be trin from Melisse, Timothy Hollingsworth the firm favourite. who people know from winning Final Table, The menu you’ve created fuses a lot of fra- and Christopher Kostow from The Restaugrant ingredients together – how do you rant at Meadowood, who showed me how to curate them together? I read a lot, not only really think of ingredients and dining expecookbooks but also about rience in a di erent way. the history of food. I think What are the hurdles you’ve you need to understand tra- experienced during your ditional gastronomy before The Hero career? When you’re really you can really evolve some- Dishes passionate about something, thing new. Understanding Crispy Kale Salad you have to make that your how people eat in di erent Rocket arugula, petite main concern in life. I’ve cultures to di erent flavour carrots, beetroot, missed out on so much with profiles of each culture, peanuts, Thai lime friends and family, but it was makes you understand food vinaigrette essential at the time to grow on another level to develop Roasted Black Cod into the chef I am today. dishes that makes sense. Sweet corn pudding, What have been the key mileDescribe the process that grilled spring onions, stones? The knowledge I goes into curating new miso beurre blanc have gained from all the work menus and new dish ideas? Black Tru e I put in. Friends I have made I am very collaborative with “Sushi Rice” Risotto throughout the years, being my menu, with every chef Butternut squash, in the position I am in now in my kitchen. I always ask Shimeji mushrooms, coming from a really bad what they think when they Parmesan mousse neighbourhood in Los Antry new dishes. I also en- Roasted Chilean geles. I am grateful that my courage them to come up Sea Bass sacrifices to always strive to with ideas that we can work Yuzu kosho seaweed do better is paying o . on together, so they can get brown butter, girolles, What do you see next for CÉ better. During my time at the rock shrimp, grilled LA VI Dubai? CÉ LA VI Dubai French Laundry with 3 Mi- savoy cabbage and to be one of the best culinary chelin stars, the menu would bonito cream destinations in Dubai! We’re change every day. I think of Grilled Spanish recognised for being at the looking at di erent cultures, Octopus top of our game a er such a traditions, and then flavour Confit potato, demi- short time, which is so great components. My 14 years of sec tomato, smoked to be a part of. I want to experience gives me a broad- pimentón, squid ink make an impact in the city, er perspective and makes me vinaigrette that can’t go unnoticed.
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AN ODE TO OUD
Louis Vuitton explores the olfactory culture of the Middle East
Pur Oud Dhs6,300 Louis Vuitton for 100ml
WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
ULYSSE FRECHELIN : PHOTOGRAPHY