Jumeirah | July 2017

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Location, Location, Location The secret on where to write the perfect novel

Artful Evolution

Dubai’s oldest quarter gets a revamp

Riding High

At home with showjumping champion Kent Farrington

james corden The carpool comedian sings his way to success

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July 2017 M

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Location, Location, Location

Artful Evolution

Dubai’s oldest quarter gets a revamp

Riding High

At home with showjumping champion Kent Farrington

james corden

Jumeirah Magazine

The carpool comedian sings his way to success

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Image: Getty Images

The secret on where to write the perfect novel

15/06/2017 09:59

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Editor-in-Chief

Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Managing Partner & Group Editor

lan Fairservice Editorial Director

Gina Johnson Group Editor

Sophia Serin Deputy Editor

Nina Catt Senior Editorial Assiatant

Cecilia D’Souza Designer

Hiral Kapadia Picture Editor

Diana Bell-Heather Contributors

Tahira Yaqoob, Gareth Rees, Claire Hill General Manager – Production

S Sunil Kumar

Contents

Production Manager

R Murali Krishnan Production Supervisor

Venita Pinto

This Month

Chief Commercial Officer

Anthony Milne Group Sales Manager

Ziad Saleh ziad@motivate.ae

13 City watch Discover the most exciting events happening this month

For Jumeirah

Charlie Taylor

20 Monitor Essential news and previews

Featured

Head Office: Media One Tower, Dubai Media City, PO Box 2331, Dubai UAE, Tel: +971 4 427 3000, E-mail: motivate@motivate.ae

24 Sing when you’re winning Comedy actor James Corden is the toast of Tinseltown – thanks to carpool karaoke

Dubai Media City: Office 508, 5th Floor, Building 8, Dubai, UAE, Tel: +971 4 390 3550, Fax: +971 4 390 4845 Abu Dhabi: PO Box 43072, UAE, Tel: +971 2 677 2005, Fax: +971 2 677 0124, E-mail: editor-wo@motivate.ae London: Acre House, 11/15 William Road, London NW1 3ER, UK, E-mail: motivateuk@motivate.ae Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai

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28 Cooking up a storm Bake Off winner and BBC star Nadiya Hussain talks about baking and books

House of Native, Jumeirah Beach Road, Dubai

www.nativedubai.com

Level 1, Abu Dhabi Mall, Abu Dhabi

JULy 2017

Contents 48

Lifestyle 34 Carry on Covetable accessories from Aspinal of London’s spring/summer collection 42 Softly does it Quintessential summer florals from Jelena Bin Drai 48 Best in class Showjumping champion Kent Farrington at the Rolex Grand Prix 54 All the world’s a page Jumeirah talks to writers about why the setting of their books matters

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Travel 60 Back to the future Dubai’s oldest neighbourhood has been transformed with a bohemian makeover 64 Insiders’ guide to...Abu Dhabi Key tastemakers give a flavour of life in the UAE capital 70 Time for tea The centuries-old tradition of afternoon tea is given a modern twist 76 Ladies invited Complimentary drinks and nibbles make for a perfect get-together 80 Featured spaces Bar-EE Jumeirah Vittaveli, Maldives 82 The high life Dhow and Anchor, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai

City Watch

Key dates for your diary

Dubai

haunting Visions Until July 31 A ghostly presence is the common thread in Grey Noise gallery’s Ghosting of Beings and Worlds. The exhibition features artworks by international artists including Ismail Bahri, Charbel-Joseph Boutros, Laurent Derobert, Rodrigo Hernandez, Ange Leccia, Dala Nasser, Stephanie Saade and Vittorio Santoro.

Ghosting of Beings and Worlds, Grey Noise, Alserkal Avenue, Dubai. greynoise.org

BEST LAID PLANS Until September 5 Carbon 12 Dubai presents British artist Amba Sayal-Bennet’s first solo show in the Middle East. The geometric drawings and sculptures that feature in Plane Maker, which are inspired by architectural blueprints and other diagrammatic designs but do not depict specific objects, encourage the viewer to form their own interpretation.

Plane Maker, Carbon 12 Dubai, Alserkal Avenue, Dubai. carbon12dubai.com

TALKING HEADS The paintings in Brussels-based Syrian painter Abdalla al Omari’s The Vulnerability Series, currently on display in the Ayyam Gallery, sees Barack Obama and his successor Donald Trump

Egyptian art

to Bashar al Assad and the ex-British prime

Until July 27

minister David Cameron – placed in situations

Green Art Gallery’s Modernist Women of Egypt features the work of eight female Egyptian

experienced by refugees, depicting them as

artists, including Inji Efflatoun, Vassila Farid and Zeinab Abdel Hamid, produced between

vulnerable, displaced and desperate individuals.

the 1950s and 1970s. The exhibition explores the role the women played in the evolution of

The Vulnerability Series, Ayyam Gallery,

modern Egyptian art.

Alserkal Avenue, Dubai. ayyamgallery.com

Modernist Women of Egypt, Green Art Gallery, Alserkal Avenue, Dubai. gagallery.com

world leaders – from the former US president

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Abu DhAbi/istAnbul

GuGGenheIm TIme until July 29 Manarat al Saadiyat’s exhibition The Creative Act: Performance, Process, Presence features 25 works by international artists including Rasheed Araeen, Mohammed Kazem, Shiraga Kazuo, Tanaka Atsuko, Niki de Saint Phalle, Gunther Uecker and Susan Hefuna. The second Guggenheim Abu Dhabi pre-opening exhibition follows 2014’s Seeing Through Light: Selections from the Guggenheim Abu Dhabi Collection.

The Creative Act: Performance, Process, Presence, manarat Al Saadiyat, Abu Dhabi. saadiyatculturaldistrict.ae

Summer Fun July 20 to August 20 Abu Dhabi Summer Season is back. The month-long schedule of family-friendly events, held in locations across the emirate, includes a Tom and Jerry stage show and a themed maze based on the cartoon characters, stand-up comedy, Bollywood stars, a new Iftah Ya Simsim (Arabic Sesame Street) stage show and Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles-themed activities.

Abu Dhabi Summer Season, various locations, Abu Dhabi. abudhabisummerseason.ae

Turkish Cinema until July 30

All ThAT JAzz July 4 to 20 The 24th edition of the Istanbul Jazz Festival welcomes more than 200 international musicians to the Turkish capital. Star performers include Nashville-based singer, songwriter and pianist Kandace Springs, Berlin-born pianist Jacky Terrasson, French trumpeter Stephane Belmondo, Swiss pianist Nik Bartsch, Malian singer Hindi Zahra and FrancoMoroccan singer Hindi Zahra.

Istanbul Jazz Festival, various locations, Istanbul. caz.iksv.org

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Istanbul Modern’s show Masters of Cinema in Turkey series celebrates the work of Lutfi Akad with an exhibition of archive material including film stills, scripts, posters and screenings of the director’s films. Akad, who died in 2011 at the age of 95, is regarded as one of the greats of Turkish cinema. masters of Cinema in Turkey, Istanbul modern, Istanbul. istanbulmodern.org

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london

MurrayMania is back July 3 to 16 This year’s Wimbledon sees world number one Andy Murray looking to equal British tennis legend Fred Perry’s record of three Wimbledon titles. Women’s number one title holder Serena Williams will be hoping to win her eighth Wimbledon championship.

Wimbledon, all England Lawn Tennis and croquet club. London. wimbledon.com

Fast train to Japan July 14 to 16 The Docklands Light Railway will be transporting you to Japan this summer with a threeday celebration of all things Japanese. Hyper Japan in Tobacco Dock offers visitors the chance to try elements of Japanese culture from food and fashion to gaming.

Hyper Japan, Tobacco Dock, London. hyperjapan.co.uk

Park LifE until July 8 London’s British Summer Time festival in Hyde Park features performances from Green Day, Justin Bieber, Kings of Leon, The Killers and Tom Petty and The Heartbreakers. british summer Time, Hyde Park, London. st-hydepark.com

souLfuL arT until october 22 Tate Modern’s Soul of a Nation: Art in the Age of Black Power explores the work of black American artists inspired by the events of the Civil Rights movement and beyond. The exhibition features more than 150 works by over 50 artists, including Romare Bearden, Norman Lewis, Lorraine O’Grady and Betye Saar. soul of a nation: art in the age of black Power, Tate Modern, London. tate.org.uk

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frankfurt/Shanghai Jazz legend July 5 Jazz trumpeter Wynton Marsalis, the winner of nine Grammys and a Pulitzer Prize, will play with his Jazz at Lincoln Centre Orchestra in Shanghai Symphony Hall.

JlCO with Wynton Marsalis, shanghai symphony hall, shanghai. wyntonmarsalis.org

TheaTre FesTival July 22 to august 7 The 10th edition of Frankfurt’s Sommerwerft theatre festival promises two-and-a-half weeks of theatre beside the Main river. The festival features performances by local and international artists and is free to enter. sommerwerft, Frankfurt. sommerwerft.de

Take That July 19 Former Take That singer Robbie Williams brings his The Heavy Entertainment Show Tour to Frankfurt’s Commerzbank Arena. Promoting his album The Heavy Entertainment Show, the tour is the star’s 12th as a solo performer. robbie Williams, Commerzbank arena, Frankfurt. robbiewilliams.com

MOdern liFe Until July 30 Art+ Shanghai Gallery presents Entangled in Duality, an exhibition of the work of Chinese artist Hu Weiqi, who is primarily concerned with the impact of China’s rapid change on the lives of the current generation of Chinese citizens. entangled in duality, art+ shanghai gallery, shanghai. artplusshanghai.com

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SEASONAL SHOPPING During the sweltering summer months, Dubai’s airconditioned malls are thronging with residents and tourists drawn by the added appeal of Dubai Summer Surprises (DSS) shopping festival, which has been catering to the bargain-loving masses since 1998.

For six weeks this summer, the 20th edition of DSS will take over the city's major malls, offering weekly deals and discounts of up to 75 per cent across hundreds of stores.

Words: Faye Rowe

While the adults shop, children can enjoy concerts by Arabic performers, an indoor educational entertainment centre and shows featuring popular characters from movies such as Aladdin, Ghostbusters, Pirates of the Caribbean and Transformers.

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There will also be prizes to be won. Last year visitors during DSS won a total of 12 Infiniti Q50 luxury cars, among a host of other prizes and the bounty on offer this year is likely to be just as impressive.

Dubai Summer Surprises takes place from July 1 to August 12 in various locations in Dubai. See visitdubai.com/en/dss for more details

monitor

MADE IN DubAI Made in Tashkeel, the annual group show from the Dubai art organisation set up by Sheikha Lateefa bint Maktoum in 2008, is a highlight of the city's cultural calendar.

The ninth edition of the summer showcase features the work of 30 amateur and professional artists, including Tashkeel members, artists who have attended the studio's workshops and those who have recently exhibited in the gallery space.

The artist line-up includes several Emirati artists, including graphic designer Amal al Gurg, jewellery designer Amal Haliq, photographer Ammar al Attar, multidisciplinary artist Fatima al Budoor and video artist Hind bin Demaithan.

Visitors to Made in Tashkeel 2017 will also be able to buy handprinted goods such as laptop bags, aprons, pencil cases and notebooks created by calligrapher Ibraheem Khamayseh, Mobius Design Studio, Myneandyours, graphic designer and illustrator Tulip Hazbar and calligrapher and graphic designer Wissam Shawkat.

Made in Tashkeel 2017 takes place until August 30 in Dubai. See tashkeel.org for more details

TOMORROWLAND NEVER DIES The annual Tomorrowland festival, held in Boom, Belgium, has become one of the biggest and most popular electronic dance music (EDM) events of the year since it started in the summer of 2005.

This month the 13th edition of Tomorrowland will be broadcast via a live satellite link-up to EDM fans in Dubai’s Festival City arena.

Unite With Tomorrowland will see live sets by Dutch trance DJ Armin van Buuren, Belgian house DJ duo Dimitri Vegas and Like Mike and US house DJ Niles Hollowell-Dhar, known as Kshmr, on the Tomorrowland main stage in Belgium broadcast in real time on the main stage in Dubai.

Live in Dubai, local acts Arcade 82 and Barry Fore will join international stars Ferreck Dawn, Franky Rizardo, Martin Solveig, Mikael Weermets, Robert Falcon, Siege and Tom Swoon in the lineup for the Unite stage.

Tickets for the 11-hour event, which runs from 2pm to 3am, range from $133 for a standard pass to $27,216 for the 20-person epic table’ package.

Unite With Tomorrowland takes place on July 29 in Festival City arena, Dubai. See tomorrowland.com for more details

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Featured 24 Sing when you're winning

Multi-talented comedian James Corden is a hit in Tinseltown, thanks to carpool karaoke

28 Cooking up a storm

Image: Getty

Great British Bake Off star Nadiya Hussain has her fingers in lots of pies

Sing when you’re winning

Words by Rachel Silvestri

He might have sung along with some of the biggest names in the business but James Corden is just a humble London lad at heart. Jumeirah takes a look at how a boy from Hillingdon made it big in Tinseltown

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featured: james corden

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His hilarious joyride through the streets of London with Adele was 2016's most watched YouTube video with 138 million views

“This is not a country that feels afraid,” announced James Corden from outside the British Houses of Parliament during an opening monologue for his chat show, The Late Late Show.

Speaking in the run-up to the country’s parliamentary elections last month, the funnyman’s heart was, as ever, firmly on his sleeve. Citing London’s “stoic British determination to let nothing or anybody stand in our way”, he told the world he was “so proud to be broadcasting here from my home town.

I'm proud to show off its beauty, its diversity.”

It was a sober beginning to what had been touted as a wild romp across the pond from Corden’s usual Los Angeles base. Since taking the helm at The Late Late Show in 2015, the writer, actor and comedian has had enormous success both in the United States and worldwide. By far the most popular part of his show is the carpool karaoke segment, seeing Corden (and his impressive musical abilities) cruising LA’s streets with a megastar by his side, singing hits, swapping stories and sometimes even exchanging outfits. From Madonna, Britney Spears and Elton John to Katy Perry, Lady Gaga and Ed Sheeran, Corden’s mobile singalongs have garnered a following of millions on the internet. His hilarious joyride through the streets of London with Adele was 2016’s most-watched YouTube video with 138 million views.

Even the former First Lady Michelle Obama couldn't resist hitching a ride.

Born in Hillingdon, Greater London and raised in the leafy Buckinghamshire countryside, Corden spent his early years in and around what he says is his “favourite city in the world”. The middle child of a Royal Air Force musician father and social worker mother, 38-year-old Corden’s upbringing was strikingly ordinary – but clearly with plenty of laughter, as demonstrated by his parents’ and younger sister’s appearances on The Late Late Show, when their collective sense of humour almost eclipsed that of their famous son and brother.

After early work on stage as well as securing small television and film parts, Corden’s breakthrough on British television came at the age of 22 with a role in the British comedy drama series Fat Friends, which garnered him a best newcomer nomination from the Royal Television Society. But it was his multitude of talents that really made the public sit up and take notice with the 2007 launch of the widely loved comedy series Gavin and Stacey.

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Partnering with his Fat Friends co-star Ruth Jones, Corden wrote and acted in this tale of cross-cultural long distance love between an Essex lad and a girl from the Welsh valleys. Playing the titular Gavin’s best friend Smithy, Corden stole the show with his portrayal of likeably earnest, if overprotective, friendship. He won a best comedy performance Bafta and a British Comedy Award for the role as a result.

“I’d love to do another Gavin and Stacey special,” Corden told the Daily Star last year after reprising his role as Smithy for a Sport Relief sketch. “It’s just finding the time. Writing [the sketch] with Ruth for two weeks was just brilliant so I’d love to do another one. Watch this space.”

Corden’s charity work has been one of the hallmarks of his career, presenting Channel 4’s Comedy Gala in 2010 in aid of Great Ormond Street Hospital for children as well as donating the proceeds of his England World Cup single with Dizzee Rascal to the same cause, among many other charitable acts.

It was even his charity work that helped him hit upon his now signature carpool karaoke. The late George Michael hitched a ride with Corden in a sketch for the televised Comic Relief in 2011 and an idea was born. After reprising the formula in 2014’s When Corden Met Barlow documentary featuring Gary Barlow from Take That, the karaoke skit found a permanent home when CBS – having spotted him performing in the West End in One Man, Two Guvnors – commissioned Corden as its new show host in 2014.

Upping sticks and moving his wife Julia and two young children, Max, now aged six and Carey, two, to Los Angeles, Corden was an instant hit. The show has become compulsive viewing, thanks to his boy-next-door charm and ability to send himself up. His presenting chops and dulcet tones, which had already been showcased in the Hollywood musical Into the Woods, have landed him gigs hosting the Tony Awards and this year's Grammys. He has even lent his voice to the smash hit animated movie Trolls as Biggie.

So what’s next for Corden? More animated movies are coming out, including The Emoji Movie and Peter Rabbit, as well as a return to the Grammys next year. But as Corden’s moving words in London expressed, a piece of his heart will always stay close to home – and as a self-deprecating charmer with a knack of putting a smile on everyone's face, it seems the feeling is entirely mutual.

featured: james corden

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Cooking Up a STorm

Words: Tahira Yaqoob / Image: Getty

Great British Bake Off winner and BBC star Nadiya Hussain talks to Tahira Yaqoob about getting her hands messy – only with ink rather than flour

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Featured: NAdiyA hussAiN

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A lot of my inspiration comes from my family. I don’t bake for me, I bake for them because that is my way of showing love

It’s not often you get to nibble on the Queen’s birthday cake. Yet here we are before a table groaning with all kinds of delicacies like blueberry and caraway seed scones, chocolate hazelnut profiteroles and skillet crumpets with salted honey butter. The centrepiece, simply called Her Majesty’s cake, is a marvel of frosted pink perfection smothering three layers of orange drizzle sponge, sandwiched together with thick buttercream and topped with delicate pink fondant roses. It nearly did not come into existence, says its creator, the British television star and cookbook author Nadiya Hussain, because she thought the request to bake a cake for Queen Elizabeth II’s 90th birthday was a hoax. “I got an email and thought it was a joke,” says Hussain.

“I thought about saying no because I was too scared but my husband convinced me to do it. He said: ‘Do you really want to be the person who says no to the Queen?’”

Our replica of that celebratory cake, presented at Buckingham Palace last April, shows how far Hussain has come in just two years. Once a stay-athome mother of three, she was propelled into the limelight after entering and winning the reality TV show Great British Bake Off in 2015. In the course of the 10-week televised competition, she won a legion of fans – dubbed Nadiyators – with her self-deprecating humour, warmth and humility. The season finale became the most watched show on British television in 2015 when nearly 15 million tuned in and wept with her as she sobbed: “I am never going to put boundaries on myself ever again. I can and I will.”

In the course of that series hijab-wearing Muslim Hussain, who has parents of Bangladeshi origin, became an unwitting poster girl for the face of modernday Islam and was praised for doing more for race relations than any posturing politician in Britain. Writing in the Daily Mail, Yasmin Alibhai-Brown described her as an “accidental heroine”, adding: “Nadiya has done more to further the cause of Asian women and men than countless government policies, think tanks, initiatives and councils put together have achieved in the past half-century.”

Today she is in Dubai hosting afternoon tea and promoting a trio of books published since she won the TV contest, including her first work of fiction, called The Secret Lives of the Amir Sisters and co-written with the author Ayisha Malik. A fourth book, called Nadiya’s British Food Adventure, is due out later this month, a companion to a new TV series by the same name, which will see her travelling around the UK discovering regional cuisine.

She is a regular on British chat shows and appeared in The Chronicles of Nadiya last year, in which she explored her Bangladeshi roots and food. This autumn will see her taking on one of the most covetable roles in television, co-presenting a BBC primetime cookery show called the Big Family Cooking Showdown, a programme she describes as being “about family and food and everything I am about”.

All of which is pretty astonishing for a 32-year-old who once nurtured the rather more modest ambition of landing a job as a school lunch monitor (she failed). “I was forever looking for routes to work with food. I applied for a

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job as a dinner lady but it did not work out,” she laughs now. Even more surprising is the fact Hussain suffers from panic disorder and could barely face leaving the house without her husband, IT technician Abdal, 35 and their children Musa, 10, Dawud, nine and Maryam, six. “I had anxieties and fears and self-doubt, something that every one of us as human beings can relate to,” she says. “Because I was so open about that, I think lots of people related to it.” It was Abdal who applied to Bake Off on her behalf.

“I just did not have the self-confidence and I was very naive throughout the show. Every week I would fall apart.”

As her anxiety loomed large - she describes it as “constantly living with a monster” - she coped by repeatedly flicking an elastic band worn on her wrist as a kind of shock therapy. Then, halfway through filming the show, it snapped. “It fell off and I froze,” she recalls. “It was the first time in 15 years I did not have an elastic band. I decided that day I was not going to wear one – and I have not worn a band since.” Her biggest achievement, she says, has been recognising her anxiety will always be there. “I have learned to deal with it so much better.”

Her family has kept her grounded and inspired her to bake in the first place.

Keen to impress her new husband after an arranged marriage at 19, she baked him a cake every night. “I have a husband who loves cake,” she says.

“The first thing I made was a Victoria sponge. He bought me my first kit.

I have still got it.” As soon as her children were old enough, she got them involved too. “I stick them in different corners and give them different jobs. I find if I let them loose and just step back, they actually work it out between themselves, which is nice to watch.” The three youngsters feature prominently in her book Nadiya’s Bake Me a Story, which interweaves fairytales with recipes adapted for children and follows her sweet treatfilled cookbook Nadiya’s Kitchen. “A lot of my inspiration comes from my family,” she says. “I don’t bake for me, I bake for them because that is my way of showing love.”

In her novel, she is venturing for the first time into writing adult fiction with the first in a trilogy about four Bangladeshi sisters growing up in a quaint English village. “I have been writing for years, longer than I have been cooking. I went back to old characters I had written years ago and brought them back to life,” she says. “It was really important to me to write about strong female characters.” Perhaps now more than ever, challenging misconceptions about what it means to be Muslim has become even more pressing. “I did not go into a baking show thinking I was doing it as a Muslim woman,” she says. “The way I choose to dress and my hijab is incidental so I do not feel pressure [to be a role model] but the one thing I maintain is that I am not perfect. All I can ever do is just be the best version of me.”

That was encapsulated when an audience member at a book signing teasingly asked her son: “What does your mummy do?” Hussain says: “He replied: ‘She lives her dreams.’ That for me is important because if they see me live mine, they are inspired to live theirs.”

Featured: NAdiyA hussAiN

Nadiya poses with a Great Fire of London inspired bake at the London Dungeon

Nadiya at the Fortnum and Mason food and drink awards

Queen Elizabeth II cutting her 90th birthday cake, baked by Nadiya Hussain

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lifestyle 34 Carry on

Covetable bags from Aspinal of London's spring/summer collection

48 Best in class

Kent Farrington on his lifelong love of showjumping

54 All the world's a page

Still Life Photography Dirk Weyer, Courtesy of Rimowa.

We take a book tour around the world and ask authors why location matters

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Compiled by: Sophia Serin

LifestyLe: accessories

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Bespoke bags are where it’s at so personalise your pocket book with your initials for maximum effect

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LifestyLe: accessories

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LifestyLe: fashion

softLy does it spend your summer in floaty florals, prim trouser suits and new-look knits: modest dressing done the modern way

Compiled by: sophia serin

All clothing by Jelena Bin Drai and available at jelenabindrai.com

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Top $218, cami worn underneath $218, trousers $272

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Floral top $327, floral skirt $463

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Best in Class Professional American showjumping champion Kent Farrington gives Gina Johnson a peek into the world of equestrian sports

a

Beyond the affluence-steeped avenues of West Palm Beach in Florida lies the epicentre of global equestrianism.

It is one where the world’s best riders descend upon the little neighbouring township of Wellington in Florida each year to participate in the 12-week Winter Equestrian Festival (WEF).

The International Equestrian Centre established here in 1979 has become a lifestyle destination for the sport, spawning property development – mainly in the form of multi-million dollar private stables – equestrian-related business and sponsorship.

Benefiting from an investment of about $350 million in recent years, the festival has become the world’s largest and longestrunning horse competition, generating an estimated $250 million in economic benefit to the community.

Rolex is one of the key supporters of the sport, celebrating 60 years of association with equestrianism this year. The brand has forged long-term partnerships with top performing riders along with sponsoring the main showjumping attraction of the event - the Rolex Grand Prix.

For the riders and the horses, the stakes are high with $9.5 million in prize money awarded throughout the event.

Some of the participants, particularly those from the US, are no strangers to the privilege that surrounds them. Many of them are the multi-generational offspring of blue-blooded East Coast families or West Coast tech tycoons. Georgina Bloomberg, daughter of the former New York City mayor

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featured: kent farrington

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Michael Bloomberg, Jennifer Gates, daughter of the Microsoft founder and philanthropist Bill Gates and Jessica Springsteen, daughter of the legendary musician Bruce Springsteen, are all considered locals as they relocate to compete on the showjumping circuit in Wellington each season.

But family ties and wealth is not the only pathway into the sport. In some cases, sheer grit is all it takes.

Such was the case for Kent Farrington, the US team's silver Olympic medallist and Rolex testimonee who now ranks first in the world Federation Equestre International (FEI) rankings.

After seeing a picture of his mother riding when he was a child, he showed an interest in becoming a jockey but soon segued into showjumping, where his passion kicked in.

Growing up in urban Chicago, the young Farrington travelled three hours every day to practice at stables outside the city, often driven by his mother, his mentor and original inspiration. His trainers were blown away by his commitment – at one point having to insist he take a day off once in a while – and that dedication and focus still propels him today.

Farrington adheres to a strict lifestyle. His routine consists of a morning training regime for his horses, competing or training other riders and a nightly gym session. He consumes no sugar, processed foods or nightshades (a group of vegetables which include potatoes, aubergines, tomatoes and peppers).

This, he explains, assists in the mental preparation for a sport where you must constantly deal with defeat.

“This a sport where you lose a lot more than you win, compared to, say, tennis, where if you’re one of the top players, more than likely you’re going to make it to the final round.

“In our sport, if you knock down fence number two, you’re out and it’s over.

“If you look at the best people in the world, they probably win 10 per cent of the time, maybe less. So there’s a lot of losing and mentally that takes a lot of strength,” he says.

“The hardest part is you have to walk into every event thinking that you’re going to win and walk away most of the time where you don’t – so you have to be mentally very resilient.”

At his Wellington stables - a stunning private estate where he keeps about 20 of his horses, including his Grand Prix starting line-up - his fastidious attention to organisation and detail is evident everywhere.

Bridles are labelled and hung in perfect symmetry; the living room looks like the setting of a Ralph Lauren glossy magazine ad; even the laundry room is pristine.

For Farrington - who spends almost half of his year here - there is no room for deviation.

“I like to have everything under control and know where everything is,” says Farrington. “Even if it makes me one per cent better.”

Farrington’s schedule evolves around the Grand Prix circuit taking him from the US as far afield as Shanghai and Geneva. In May he secured

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Marion Larochette

featured: kent farrington

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If you look at the best people in the world, they probably win 10 per cent of the time, maybe less. There's a lot of losing and mentally that takes a lot of strength

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featured: kent farrington

the Rolex Grand Prix at the Royal Windsor Horse Show and this month he’ll compete in the CHIO Aachen Grand Slam in Germany.

But he never forgets where he’s come from – and this is true in both the literal and metaphorical sense. For a man who spends much of his life circumnavigating the globe and competing, he remains extremely bonded to his family.

Farrington’s sister Kim, who rode with him when they were children, has stuck by his side since the early days when he was scrapping to make it through the ranks.

He shares a telling anecdote about his first Grand Prix win in La Caruna, Spain where his sister motivated him to victory by expressing her desire to one day own a Rolex timepiece. But there was one condition: he couldn’t buy it for her – he had to win it.

And Farrington did win that day, setting in place a trajectory for what would become an illustrious showjumping career.

key showjumping fixtures of the season the three major events that comprise the rolex grand slam of showjumping include Chio aachen in germany every july, Csio spruce meadows masters, Canada, in september and Chi geneva in switzerland every December.

Chio aachen takes place this month from july 14 to 23.

Stay at Jumeirah Frankfurt. jumeirah.com

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Images: Getty

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Cornwall

cuLTurE: books

ALL THE WorLd'S A PAGE A book’s setting can transport us into other worlds.

Tahira Yaqoob talks to authors who take you around the globe

“A dense drizzly fog lay low upon the great city…Down the Strand the lamps were but misty splotches of diffused light which threw a feeble circular glimmer upon the slimy pavement,” wrote Arthur Conan Doyle in Sherlock Holmes’ second outing, The Sign of Four. The heavy fog, eerie alleyways and gas lamps casting ghostly shadows vividly depict Victorian London - yet his description is instantly recognisable and one we can still discover today in the winding lanes and back streets of the British capital.

A murky, fog-filled, brooding London forms a backdrop intrinsic to the crimes Holmes solves and captures our imagination, almost as another character. But why is location so important in novels? Does it simply form the background or has it a more important role to play?

Bestselling British author Joanne Harris, whose novel Chocolat was turned into a film starring Johnny Depp and Juliette Binoche, thinks where books are set is deeply significant. Chocolat interwove magical fantasy with a vivid evocation of quaint, conservative life in rural France and was followed by two more books in the French series, The Lollipop Shoes and Peaches for Monsieur le Curé. “In most of my books the location is at least as important as some of the characters,” says Harris. “That's because I'm interested in the way people relate to their environment - the difference between town and country living, the effect that environment has on upbringing, the way people reflect different aspects of their personalities in different environments. I think it all plays into the characters I create, as well as making a more believable scenario for the readers.” Setting, she adds, offers a window into another world, particularly when it is “multi-sensory”. Harris says: “It's essential for the writer not to use location just as a backdrop. It’s not just decor; at its best, it's the engine at the heart of the novel.”

“The setting creates the world of the story and limits the story,” says Liz Fenwick, the author of a six-book Cornish series, which includes The

Cornish House and A Cornish Affair. “Setting also sets the mood, which helps shape the emotions that readers feel. I think readers do notice setting, even if it is only the feeling or mood that it implies. An evening stroll along a graveyard feels different to one on a bustling city street. How the character reacts to the setting is vital.” Readers, she adds, love to “explore a new location through place or return to one they know. There are times that readers want the world of the novel to be familiar and others where they want to explore, be challenged and to gain knowledge.”

The best novels intertwine location inextricably with the characters’ lives; sometimes it can determine the characters’ fate. Just as we cannot imagine Holmes crime-solving anywhere but the seedy underbelly of Victorian London, could Edith Wharton’s The Age of Innocence exist anywhere but the Gilded Age of 19th century upper-crust New York? Could Jack Kerouac have headed out On the Road anywhere but a post-war America where an anti-establishment counter-culture was just emerging?

Then there is Graham Greene’s Brighton Rock, set in the seaside resort which “had such a hold on my affections” but was turned into a seamy, gang-riven, dissolute metropolis to convey Greene’s acrimony toward the social mores of 1930s England; the Wessex of Thomas Hardy’s Tess of the D’Urbervilles where the rugged, rural landscape and weather mirror Tess’ emotions in a pathetic fallacy; Lawrence Durrell’s striking depiction of Egypt in The Alexandria Quartet; Charles Dickens’ London, described by the author as a “magic lantern” and as vital and memorable a part of his novels as the characters.

Andy Barr, the manager of Belgravia Books in London, has curated a lending library of books relevant to the neighbourhood for the Jumeirah Lowndes Hotel. He says: “Setting adds everything, be it atmosphere, historical depth

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It's essential for the writer not to use location just as a backdrop. It’s not just decor; at its best, it's the engine at the heart of the novel

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Egypt

or a reality the reader can recognise, identify with or remember. Backdrop can give context, reinforce motifs, provide dramatic juxtaposition, breathe life into characters or just suffuse the book with a feeling.” London, he adds, is omnipresent in so much of English fiction because it was the epicentre of literary circles for centuries and “remains the obvious setting for many a state-of-the-nation novel”.

The Threat Level Remains Severe, the rather aptly named debut novel from London-based writer Rowena Macdonald, is due out this month. She drew on her 16 years’ experience working as a House of Commons committee assistant to write her romantic novel set in the corridors of power (which led the London Evening Standard to wryly observe it was “less roman-a-clef, more roman-a-totally-obvious”). Macdonald says she started with location when writing, adding: “I wanted to capture the particular atmosphere of a place I know intimately. A strong location gives a sense of reality that the reader can enter into and live in for a while. Setting adds a sense of solidity.”

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But is it possible for authors to create believable worlds from places they have never visited or that do not exist? Scenes from Early Life author Philip Hensher, writing in the Guardian, says it does not matter and has based books in Vienna and Afghanistan, where he has never been, as well as Sheffield and London: “As far as I could tell, readers found the imaginative reconstruction as satisfying as the documentary account.” Macdonald points out even an imaginary time and place can root a novel if it is wellwritten. Fenwick wrote much of her Cornish series while living in Dubai.

“It was challenging at times,” she admits. “I would be looking out at blue skies and bougainvillea thinking about horizontal rain and log fires. On the other hand I missed our home, which created a yearning for me to capture Cornwall on the page as much for me as for the reader.” And that feeling of exploring other worlds is ultimately what appeals to the reader. “Setting enables readers to be transported to another place,” says Macdonald.

“Without a strong setting, a novel will just float into an abstract realm that is hard for readers to grasp onto.”

culture: books YoUR EssENTIAL sUMMER READING LIsT - oR How To EXPLoRE THE woRLD THRoUGH books

sTAY: At the Jumeirah Lowndes Hotel, belgravia, London, where book-and-brunch sundays include a different book each month with a set menu READ: A dizzying array of choices: try A Study in Scarlet and A Sign of Four by Arthur Conan Doyle, brilliantly weaving Sherlock Holmes’ murky London; Charles Dickens’ David Copperfield and Sketches by Boz for a peephole into 19th century London life; White Teeth and NW by Zadie Smith and Muriel Spark’s The Ballad of Peckham Rye for a slice of urban realism; Patrick Hamilton’s prewar Hangover Square. Explore Belgravia through Evelyn Waugh’s Brideshead Revisited, Nancy Mitford’s Love in a Cold Climate and, of course, the newly published Belgravia

by Downton Abbey creator Julian Fellowes, focusing on

Jumeirah Lowndes Hotel, London

high society in the 1840s. sTAY: At the Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah, Istanbul READ: Agatha Christie’s Murder on the Orient Express, said to have been penned in the hotel’s room 411; Nobel prizewinning author Orhan Pamuk’s The Museum of Innocence, a treatise on unrequited love and his latest novel The Red-Haired Woman, set in the city in the 1880s; Elif Safak’s The Architect’s Apprentice, based on Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan; Jason Goodwin’s The Janissary Tree and Robert Graves’ Count Belisarius. For non-fiction, read Pamuk’s melancholic Istanbul: Memories and the City and Bettany Hughes’ dazzling Istanbul: A Tale of Three Cities. sTAY: At the Jumeirah Himalayas Hotel, shanghai Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah, Istanbul

Liz Fenwick

READ: Eileen Chang’s Lust, Caution, which was turned into a film by Ang Lee; Qiu Zialong’s Death of a Red Heroine; Empire of the Sun by JG Ballard, a coming-of-age war epic transformed for the big screen by Steven Spielberg and starring a young Christian Bale; Tony Parsons on expat dislocation in My Favourite Wife. sTAY: At the Jumeirah Al Naseem, Dubai READ: Jeffrey Deaver’s Carte Blanche, with James Bond chasing villians in the UAE; government official Mohammad al Murr also delves into fiction with Dubai Tales and The Wink

Sir Arthur Conan Doyle

of the Mona Lisa; The Sand Fish by Maha Gargash, set in the Trucial States in the 1950s; Joseph O’Neill on rootlessness in The Dog; crime writer Christopher Fowler’s The Sand Men. For non-fiction, delve into Wilfred Thesiger’s Arabian Sands and Jim Krane’s Dubai: The Story of the World’s Fastest City. sTAY: At the Jumeirah Port soller Hotel and spa, Mallorca

Images: Getty and supplied

READ: British Mallorca-based author and expat blogger Anna Nicholas has written a series of books on her new home, including A Chorus of Cockerels and Goats from a Small Island; Sian Mackay’s Rafael’s Wings; Emma Straub’s beach read The Vacationers. Other non-fiction novels include A House in the High Hills by former TV presenter Port Soller Hotel and Spa, Mallorca

Selina Scott, Peter Kerr’s series, including Viva Mallorca and Snowball Oranges and A Winter in Majorca by George Sand.

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THE WORLD CAN WAIT

To reconnect with what’s important, you need to disconnect first - get caught up in a special moment and not in the worries of the world. At Jumeirah Zabeel Saray moments like these are abundant. That’s because we take care of every detail of your holiday.

Some call it a luxury, we call it quality time.

Time to let go. For more information, visit jumeirah.com or call +971 4 453 0000

travel 60 Back to the future

Dubai's oldest neighbourhood has had a bohemian makeover

64 Insiders' guide to...

Abu Dhabi

Key tastemakers give a flavour of life in the UAE capital

82 The high life

Image: Getty

Dhow and Anchor, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai

Words: Tahira Yaqoob

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Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood

featured: Culture

Back to the Future

One of dubai’s oldest neighbourhoods has been given a bohemian makeover and become an artistic and cultural hub

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A windtower in Al Fahidi

Dubai Museum

19th century architecture in Al Fahidi

When you think of Dubai, you don’t usually think of history. You think of sky-piercing high rises, dazzling neon lights, futuristic technology and the overarching ambition that drove a pulsating city and global financial hub to be created in the desert in the first place. But there is another Dubai, one tucked away and often going unnoticed. In the quarter known as Old Dubai, where traders still haggle over silks, spices and gold and cargo ships ply a busy trade along the creek, Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood has been almost as perfectly preserved as it was when it was first built in the 1890s and still stands as one of the oldest residential districts in the city. It is off the beaten trail for most visitors lured by glitzy malls and beaches and even residents rarely venture there. But all that is set to change, thanks to a government-backed initiative to transform the area into an art-filled, eclectic, bohemian space.

For decades Al Fahidi stood as a monument to a long lost time, giving pause for thought but representing little more than a living museum. Fringed by the creek and the Ruler’s Court on one side and on the others, by the Dubai Museum in the converted 18th century Al Fahidi fort and the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding (SMCCU), it was originally a cluster of about 60 courtyard houses owned by rich merchants and local families.

With the development of the city in the 1970s, many left and about half the area – then known as Bastakiya – was demolished to make way for a new office complex. The rest of the neighbourhood fell

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into disrepair and was used as warehouses and accommodation for labourers. In 1989, when the rest of Bastakiya was due to be destroyed, a British architect called Rayner Otter, who had renovated one of the historic homes to live in, reportedly wrote to Prince Charles appealing to him to intervene. With his love of historic architecture, Prince Charles suggested to his hosts during a visit to the UAE that year that the area be preserved. Bastakiya was saved but it was not until 2005 that Dubai Municipality began meticulously restoring the sand-coloured buildings topped with barjeel, or windtowers, nature’s own air conditioning system where wind from all sides is funnelled into homes below via narrow shafts.

A handful of modern-day traders moved in – a couple of guest house owners, a couple of art galleries, some restaurant owners putting novelty items on the menu like camel meat burgers – but it was still off the beaten track, a destination you sought out for its quirks rather than a vibrant neighbourhood.

Today Al Fahidi still looks much as it would have done in the 1800s. Narrow alleys creating shaded pathways and channelling cooling breezes run north to south between inward-facing courtyard houses. And then you start to notice little things – a sculpture of a pair of plaster hands reaching out from under wooden shutters and clasping a book. Metal stick figures scrambling up a wall in a race to the top. The alleys are alive with public sculptures and artwork discreetly placed to enhance the sun-baked buildings.

featured: Culture Al Fahidi fort

Traditionally the district comes to life with the annual Sikka art fair, when public art, workshops and exhibitions take over Al Fahidi for 11 days in March. But there are signs some of that lively, bohemian spirit is here to stay. In the Make Art Cafe, pop art decorates the walls and labyrinthine rooms off the main courtyard showcase the work of artists and creatives putting a modern spin on regional culture, from Arabic pop art motifs on cushions to lamps carved with Islamic geometric designs. The Majlis Gallery, founded in 1978 by British interior designer Alison Collins, has long been a stalwart of the area after she fell in love with the historic buildings but now it stands alongside multiple galleries, restaurants and cafes – including the XVA gallery and cafe, said to be a favourite of the chef Gordon Ramsay – as well as craft sellers, fashion boutiques and the Alserkal Cultural Foundation, which is mirroring the cultural hub it has created elsewhere in the city, in the Al Quoz industrial area. Taking over a merchant house built in 1925, the foundation was set up to “build a healthy and vibrant community and provide opportunity for creative minds”. Its chairman, Ahmad bin Eisa bin Nasser Alserkal, says: “Our intent is to grow the seed and see a blooming tree full of achievements that will have a great, positive impact on society.”

The foundation includes an exhibition space – this month Maysoon and Bassam are showcasing their fabulous resin sculptures, which throw eerie and unexpected shadows in a certain light – fashion

and creative corners promoting the latest in Arab contemporary design and art and a programme of workshops including everything from poetry, storytelling and ceramics to the role of art in business management and a rooftop where you can head with drawing paper to sketch the mystical Dubai skyline. The latest addition is a book corner with about 2,000 new and secondhand books on the Middle East and Islam.

Nearby is the new Coffee Museum, where over two floors, regional artefacts explain the history and relevance of coffee across the Middle East, from the roots of the drink in Ethiopia and Egypt to a library specialising in coffee literature and a children’s corner.

The neighbourhood also boasts a coin museum and the home of the Emirates Philatelic Association. It is telling that surrounding the district are the architectural heritage department office, the SMCCU (which promotes Emirati heritage and an understanding of Islam) and the offices of both Dubai Culture and Arts Authority and Smart Dubai, the latter aiming to make the city one of the most technology-friendly and happy places in the world. It seems Dubai’s future lies in looking back. As Collins once commented: “Bastakiya, now known as Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood, offers a tantalising glimpse into a time when Dubai was nothing more than a sleepy trading port and now, with the opening of the newly renovated houses, presents the emirate with a vibrant artistic centre.”

Stay at Jumeirah Creekside Hotel, jumeirah.com

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The InsIDers’ GuIDe To‌

abu dhabi

Interviews by Gareth rees / Image: Getty

Inside the lives of Abu Dhabi's most talented tastemakers

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travel

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Maya Allison

Maya allison

Galleries director and chief curator for new york University abu Dhabi

I am from the United States, where I mostly lived in small towns as a child and then in major cities as an adult. I moved to Abu Dhabi nearly six years ago. I work for NYU Abu Dhabi (NYUAD) and I live on campus, which is on Saadiyat island. Sometimes we joke about living on a Mars colony. Everything has just been built, there is desert all around us and most of what we need on a daily basis is on campus, from Blacksmith Coffee, an artisanal coffeeshop where they roast their own beans, to salons, a mini-grocery and a pharmacy.

The surrounding neighbourhood is Saadiyat island itself, with a great public beach, some lovely restaurants and a lot of fresh air and quiet. The campus is open to the public: you can come, bring your kids and explore. There's live music at the arts centre almost every week.

Salemal Attas

If I only had 24 hours in Abu Dhabi I would have breakfast at the Third Place cafe, take my child horseback riding at the Royal Stables, eat a thali at Royal Raj, kayak in the mangroves, go see all the art, have dumplings at the secret bar in Dai Pai Dong or have dinner at Saudi Kitchen, any Lebanese restaurant or one of the Yemeni places, hear live music at the arts centre, go for a long walk on the Corniche or on Saadiyat public beach and sleep at one of the hotels on Saadiyat island, where you can hear the ocean and swim in it. People think Abu Dhabi is all glitz but the best thing about it is the mix of little shops and cafes in the blocks downtown. You can discover a tailor or a block of them near the most delicious samosa spot, then a gold souk, then a Russian restaurant not far from a Sri Lankan spot – and so on. The worst thing about Abu Dhabi is the transient population and people moving away.

And it's really hard to learn Arabic here. saleMal attas

I have lived in many places, from San Francisco to New York to Kunming in China but nothing quite has both the cosmopolitan mix of cultures and the quiet homeliness of Abu Dhabi. It feels utterly international yet peaceful. A curator’s job is to learn – and keep learning – about artists, objects and art movements to care for, interpret and preserve culture. As chief curator, I select artworks and artists and present their work in temporary exhibitions that deepen our understanding of the artwork. As the galleries director for NYUAD, I also develop the overall long-term vision for the university galleries and how they can contribute to the overall vision of Abu Dhabi and Saadiyat island.

My favourite Abu Dhabi artists are Mohammed al Mazrouei, Alaa Edris and Tarek al Ghoussein. The art scene in Abu Dhabi is quiet but it runs deep.

There is the important Manarat al Saadiyat space, also on the island, where you can see exhibitions of work from the forthcoming Guggenheim and Louvre museums. Then there is the new Warehouse 421 space, which has an Emirati heritage exhibition on now. There are also commercial galleries like Salwa Zeidan and Etihad, and the Art Hub, where local artists rent studio space.

When I first arrived, there was far less. Much more is coming and quickly.

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spoken word poet and chemical engineering student

I was born in the Corniche Hospital, like most people I know. Growing up in Khalidiya in the late 1990s and early 2000s was special. Lots of people were moving into the area at the time so there was never a shortage of people to play football with. Khalidiya is still filled with memories but a lot of old haunts have been replaced with burger joints and overpriced barbers. I currently live in Khalifa City A. My family and I moved after living in Khalidiya for nearly 16 years. I spend my time studying in the Circle Cafe in the Garden Plaza, visiting the movie theatre in Raha Mall and enjoying barbecues in my backyard with friends and family.

Abu Dhabi has this special ability to make people from all walks of life feel right at home, whether at a concert, festival, debate or a poetry event. I wrote sporadically throughout my life, never having a real outlet and then began performing in small venues in Sharjah and Dubai before I found a home at Rooftop Rhythms in NYU Abu Dhabi. The poets I truly admire are those who motivated me to better myself such as Dorian Paul Rogers, the creator

travel Dr Roland Perlwitz

of Rooftop Rythms, Jaysus Zain, an educator and a collaborator of mine and slam champion Sarah al Souqi, a fierce competitor and a great friend. I began like most young poets, speaking of love and breakups but I soon moved to more reflective pieces discussing manhood, bullying and what it means to be an artist. I’ve been to poetry events all around the Gulf and the US and have never found a more diverse, energetic and supportive poetry scene than Abu Dhabi's.

The nature of a metropolitan city is that you get many perspectives. It’s hard to stagnate when so many styles and inspiring artists surround you. I would not be an artist were it not for my city. The culture, people and experiences I had growing up as an Emirati inform my art. Both Abu Dhabi and international audiences generally react with surprise when I perform. Nobody expects slam poets to be Emirati as it is still a [fresh] art here.

My favourite book is Airport Road, a poetry book written by students living in Abu Dhabi and my favourite poet is Ahmed al Amiri. He uses honesty and humour in a way I find unique and charming. I would advise visitors to have breakfast in Nolu’s, which has the fluffiest pancakes in town, lunch in Shaheen cafeteria, which serves the best Indian food in town and dinner at Salt, a locally owned food truck with great burgers and service.

Abu Dhabi Corniche

not easy to achieve these days. I really admire and treasure that. My job involves looking after the different musical programmes of the TCA, which are Abu Dhabi Classics, Bait al Oud [traditional music school and concert series], the Umsiyat concert series and Emirati music. Abu Dhabi Classics’ vision is to [establish] Abu Dhabi as a world-class musical destination. It aims to bring world-class classical performances to the capital, promote cross-cultural dialogue and help artistic innovation in the UAE to develop.

Most concerts are sold-out performances. We are, step by step, managing to establish an audience of concert-goers seeking top classical music from within Abu Dhabi and from the neighbouring emirates and abroad.

The classical music scene has become vibrant in the last few years with very different aspects, ranging from a full season to festivals and amateur performances. That is what makes the scene so rich. You can propose top performers and it is important to have great concerts but the real artistic wealth of a music scene is also to be seen in the smaller concerts that happen every week – and here in Abu Dhabi things are developing fast. For the city, the important thing will be to find its own identity in music. Classical music is all about common understanding, tolerance and cultural dialogue and Abu Dhabi is the perfect place to live these values and encourage art forms that derive from these values.

Dr ronalD Perlwitz

Head of music for abu Dhabi tourism and Culture authority (tCa)

I was born in Hamburg, Germany and raised in Nice, France. Abu Dhabi has a different identity but it is a harbour, a place naturally linked to international exchange with an open vision to the world. In this regard it compares to Hamburg, which is Germany’s main harbour and to Nice, which is also a door to Mediterranean culture.

I live on the Corniche. My family often visit me and we enjoy walking along the beachfront. Abu Dhabi is very special. It is a place that has managed to balance openness, cosmopolitanism and tradition – something that is

When it comes to Abu Dhabi musicians, I have many favourites but if I had to name just a couple, I would say Faisal al Saari and Saeed al Salem.

I would advise all visitors to go and see the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque and Manarat al Saadiyat. When it comes to food, I like Leopold’s in Nation Towers for lunch and Villa Toscana for dinner. The biggest misconception about Abu Dhabi is that it’s just a city with high-rise buildings.

It’s a place with a deep-rooted and interesting culture. The best things about Abu Dhabi are its people and its peaceful way of living. The worst thing is that the streets are not really made for people to walk on and enjoy. That’s the great advantage of European cities that I miss here.

Stay at Jumeirah at Etihad Towers, jumeirah.com

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Words: Tahira Yaqoob Images: Jumeirah Group

food

time for tea

The tradition of afternoon tea goes back centuries but has become popular around the world

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Cinderella afternoon tea, Jumeirah Carlton Tower, London

It is a quintessentially English tradition which started more than 170 years ago in the upper echelons of society, yet has become a global phenomenon.

Legend has it afternoon tea was introduced by the Duchess of Bedford, Queen Victoria’s lady-in-waiting, who got peckish before dinner time and started snacking on sandwiches, tea and cakes in her chamber at 4pm, then invited her friends to join as a convivial way of passing the time. Nearly two centuries on, the tradition is practised in salons and patisseries around the globe and is popular across all ranks of society and among numerous nationalities. On any given afternoon in virtually any city in the world, there will be a gloved hand pouring strained tea into fine bone china from the right and presenting a platter of delicately assembled sandwiches, pastries and scones from the left - both a hark back to a golden age of manners and old-fashioned custom and a reassuring constant in uncertain times.

What began 3,000 miles away in a very different era has become ubiquitous in the United Arab Emirates, where afternoon tea is hugely popular, despite British expatriates and visitors making up just a fraction of the population.

At the Jumeirah Zabeel Saray on the Palm Jumeirah in Dubai, the French and Mediterranean-influenced treats, served on an Ottoman-style stand and dished up by the Greek chef George Anachorlis, are reflective of the diverse mix of 200 nationalities in the country. There is a lemon and extra virgin olive oil mousse topping the very French raspberry macaroon, an Asian twist with a mango heart to a creamy vanilla tart and the exotic, flavoursome addition of banana to a traditional opera cake.

Thessaloniki-born Anachorlis and his team of 21 bakers and patissiers experimented with flavours for two months before coming up with a shortlist of delicacies. (One can only be grateful the caramel tart with squid ink pastry and white chocolate with cayenne pepper never made it onto the menu “the flavour was okay but it looked artificial”.) “We had a lot of trials,” says Anachorlis. “People were coming up with crazy combinations.” In the end, he decided on soothing flavours - chocolate cremeux, banana buttercream,

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vanilla and mango - which coated the palate and complemented the tea selection. “If you overload the palate with strong flavours, the guests would not enjoy the tea,” he says. Officials from Jing tea tasted the cakes and suggested brews which matched the flavours. While exceptionally British desserts like lemon curd tart were ruled out - “too much citrus” - Anachorlis says locals are well-travelled and enjoy international cuisine.

At the Jumeirah Carlton Tower hotel in London, executive head chef Simon Young has had fun experimenting with themed afternoon teas, from a delightful Cinderella theme (complete with mango tuille slippers and a dulce de leche clock striking midnight) to teas inspired by Chelsea Flower Show and Royal Ascot racing. The emphasis is on highlighting the best of British produce with seasonal ingredients like strawberry and asparagus while a tea sommelier is on hand to advise on the best selection. “It feels special and luxurious and something you would not do at home,” says Young.

He thinks television programmes like the Great British Bake Off and its spin-off Creme de la Creme have revived the popularity of indulging in sweet treats. “It is a talking point and a great way to socialise with friends and family. It is not just a cup of tea, it is a banquet,” he says. The tradition has undergone something of a revolution. There are now gentlemen’s afternoon teas with pies instead of cucumber sandwiches with the crusts cut off, children’s afternoon teas, such as the one served in Jumeirah Mina A’Salam, with macaroons disguised as burgers, cookie fries and fruit dressed up as pizza and even an afternoon tea served on an abra while coasting the waterways of Madinat Jumeirah resort. But when does an afternoon tea no longer count as afternoon tea? “I have seen cakes with hypodermic needles where you can squeeze in your own jam and coulis,” says Young. “You can take it too far. We still get traditionalists coming in asking for the classic afternoon tea but what we have seen over the last couple of decades is a change in the traditional afternoon tea, thanks to the variety of tea houses and teas on offer around the world.”

food TRY SOME OF THE BEST AFTERNOON TEAS IN JUMEIRAH HOTELS Observation Deck at 300 Jumeirah at Etihad Towers, Abu Dhabi

Chinoiserie Jumeirah Carlton Tower, London

The setting: On the 74th floor of this skyscraper with 360-degree panoramic views, the Observation Deck puts the ‘high’ into high tea. A striking modern minimalist interior contrasts with the jawdropping views from floor-toceiling windows.

The setting: An ambient lounge in luxurious surroundings with a spectacular centerpiece as the focal point, made up of a tree dotted with tropical flowers and birds. A harpist creates an oasis of calm in central London.

The nibbles: A nice balance between sweet and savoury with plenty of vegetarian options. Cucumber finger sandwiches on rye bread are accompanied by crab brioche, a tuna roll and a pretty smoked salmon brioche in a floral arrangement.

They come with seven desserts for each of us – tiramisu in a chocolate cup, cannoli and a delicious date and custard pastry tart – as well as the customary scones with clotted cream and jam.

The tea selection: First and second flush blends of Darjeeling and Ceylon teas. We opt for white house and silver moon, which are light and refreshing.

The nibbles: Champagne precedes a three-tiered Noah’s Ark groaning under the weight of two of everything – delicious roasted Aberdeen Angus beef and creamed horseradish in brioche buns, round-cut sandwiches with Loch Fyne smoked salmon and lemon mousse, raisin-studded scones and exquisitely presented cakes, from rosewater-infused fondant fancies to a Manjari chocolate and hazelnut delice topped with gold leaf.

The tea selection: A tea sommelier is on hand to guide us through the selection of 25 green, black, fruity and herbal teas. We tried Assam and Earl Grey, which were delightfully fragrant and poured into butter-coloured Villeroy and Boch fine bone china teacups.

Don't miss: The berry-topped cheesecake is light, creamy and (impossibly, considering the banquet) leaves you hankering for more.

Don't miss: The eclairons, which change according to season. We had passion fruit and white chocolate while the summer menu will feature a raspberry and elderflower concoction.

Book it: Call +971 2 811 5666 or email JADrestaurants@jumeirah.com

Book it: Call +44 207 858 7185 or email JCTdining@jumeirah.com

Orient terrace, Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah, Istanbul

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travel “It is a talking point and a great way to socialise with friends and family. It is not just a cup of tea, it is a banquet”

Sultan's Lounge, Jumeirah Zabeel Saray, Dubai

Sultan's Lounge, Jumeirah Zabeel Saray, Dubai

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Patisserie de Pera, Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah, Istanbul

Kubbeli Saloon, Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah, Istanbul

Sultan’s Lounge, Jumeirah Zabeel Saray, Dubai

Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah, Istanbul

The setting: A decadent palatial setting reminiscent of the Ottoman era with dazzling chandeliers, golden pillars and hallowed arches. The mellow outdoor terrace overlooking the pool is the perfect spot to watch the sun setting over the Palm Jumeirah.

The setting: The rarefied surroundings of the Kubbeli Saloon Tea Lounge, where high domed ceilings, a pianist and a parquet floor give a sense of the 19th century grandeur that lured the likes of Ernest Hemingway and Kemal Ataturk.

The nibbles: Traditional roasted beef and mustard sandwiches and smoked salmon with cream cheese are accompanied by the more Mediterranean roasted vegetable roll with pesto. The desserts are almost too pretty to eat: chocolate butterflies perch on the macaroon and Gianduja and caramel chocolate tart while the banana and chocolate opera cake is delicately encased in a sculptured chocolate cage.

The nibbles: Laid out buffet-style, there are limitless replenishments over a leisurely three-hour afternoon tea. Savouries include smoked salmon in whole wheat bread, cheese and tomato muffins, roast beef sandwiches and a goat's cheese and sundried tomato brioche. There is an ample selection of cakes, macaroons, eclairs and fruit tarts. Raisin-studded scones are served with clotted cream and jam.

The tea selection: Flowering jasmine and lily teas from China, Japanese sencha, masala chai and yellow gold oolong make for a varied choice.

The tea selection: Included are a full-bodied English breakfast, a flowery Darjeeling, a herbal infusion and Earl Grey.

Don't miss: The delightful white peony tea from Fujian or the white chocolate and cranberry scones – a revelation.

Don't miss: The unusual flavours of the mint and chocolate cheesecake and the raspberry mousse. The free refills are a bonus.

Book it: Call +971 4 453 0444 or email jszrestaurants@jumeirah.com

Book it: Call +90 212 377 4000 or email jppinfo@jumeirah.com

T H E SA ND B E T W E E N YO U R TO E S IS A

Suite Sensation

CITY HOTELS: JUMEIRAH CREEKSIDE HOTEL | JUMEIRAH EMIRATES TOWERS RESORTS: BURJ AL ARAB JUMEIRAH | JUMEIRAH BEACH HOTEL | MADINAT JUMEIRAH | JUMEIRAH ZABEEL SARAY

Rediscover the luxuries of life, the ones that really matter, at Jumeirah Hotels & Resorts’ suites and villas.

Enhance your stay with our Suite Sensation offer, with incredible benefits and complimentary inclusions*.

Book two nights at a suite within one of the city hotels and stay a second night with our compliments Book four nights at a suite or villa at one of the resorts and stay the fifth night with our compliments Complimentary breakfast, limousine transfers, access to the Club Lounges and Wild Wadi Waterpark™ Jumeirah Sirius members receive double points when they take advantage of this offer

For more information, please visit jumeirah.com/suitesensation. * Offer subject to availability. Terms and conditions apply.

ladies invited Whether you're catching up over tapas and sangria or dancing the night away, there’s an evening to suit every occasion. Here’s a round-up of the best experiences for a night out with the girls

uptown BAr, JumeirAh BeAch hotel Get your glad rags on, take the lift to the 24th floor to Uptown Bar in Dubai and take in the stunning views across the city while sipping on free-flowing bubbles, the perfect aperitif for cosmopolitan friends or pre-dinner. This night oozes style and sophistication.

Tuesdays, 8pm to 10pm

AltA BAdiA, JumeirAh emirAtes towers

Words: Claire Hill

Live the high life at Alta Badia on the 50th floor of Jumeirah Emirates Towers in Dubai. With a three-course set menu and four drinks for $54, it’s the perfect meeting spot in the sky.

Tuesdays, 6pm to 11pm

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travel

360°, Jumeirah beach hotel

bahri bar, Jumeirah mina a’salam

360° is a Dubai institution and offers four free drinks for ladies. It’s the perfect place to dance the night away to the smoothest of grooves played out by Radios 1’s Rone Jaxx and Dj 3GK, with to-die-for panoramic views of the Dubai skyline.

For soulful nights, find your rhythm at the beautiful Bahri Bar, where sweet sounds from the band 4 the Music provide the soundtrack to a sophisticated night out. Add to that three complimentary glasses of bubbles and a beautiful view of the waterways and this is a perfect night in the Madinat Jumeirah.

Tuesdays, 8pm to 12.30am

Tuesdays, 7pm to 10pm

Koubba, Jumeirah al Qasr Sundays were made for sinking into a comfy sofa at Koubba in Dubai while enjoying three complimentary fruity cocktails. Admire the dazzling Burj Al Arab Jumeirah and enjoy making the weekend last that little bit longer.

Sundays, 5pm to 10pm

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Cu-ba, Jumeirah Creekside hotel On Saturdays, keep the weekend alive and check out the trendy Jumeirah Creekside Hotel where ladies can sip free-flowing sparkling grape and enjoy a relaxed catch up with the girls at Cu-Ba. The live DJ and views of the city provide the ultimate relaxed atmosphere to wind down at the weekend.

Saturdays, 8pm to midnight

ambar, Jumeirah al Naseem Discover the city’s newest rooftop bar, Ambar, which overlooks the Arabian Gulf and the gardens of Jumeirah Al Naseem, Jumeirah Group's newest hotel in Dubai and one of the best places to watch the sunset and enjoy a sundowner or shisha. Ladies can enjoy 50 per cent off drinks every Wednesday.

Wednesdays, 5pm to 8pm

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dhow aNd aNChor, Jumeirah beaCh hotel The gastropub Dhow and Anchor offers free-flowing bubbly and giveaways every Wednesday for ladies, as well as live sports games and traditional British bites. With a buzzing atmosphere, it’s the best place for a casual night out.

Wednesdays, 8pm to 10pm

travel

The Rib Room, JumeiRah emiRaTes ToweRs What better way to celebrate the weekend than with three glasses of complimentary blush bubbly at the Rib Room Bar before selecting something delicious from the tempting meaty menu?

It’s perfect for a classy night out and the offer is available on both Thursday and Friday.

Thursdays and Fridays, 8pm to 11pm

ToRTuga, mina a’salam

al hambRa, JumeiRah al QasR

Head to Tortuga, home of a Mexican fiesta, where ladies can enjoy two free drinks and gents can enjoy a short drink when purchasing a bottle of hops. It’s Mexican, it’s tasty and the Latin music of the Mariachi band will revive your soul.

As the saying goes, mi casa es su casa.

Enjoy a relaxed midweek evening out at the traditional Spanish taverna Al Hambra with unlimited tapas, cold cuts and a pitcher of sangria for ladies. It is the perfect setting for al fresco dining in Dubai's Madinat Jumeirah resort and a place to enjoy the city’s best sangrias, served in generous clay pitchers.

Wednesdays, 8pm to 11pm

Tuesdays, 6.30pm to 11.30pm

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Words: Sophia Serin

travel

featured SpaceS Bar-EE at JumEirah VittaVEli, maldiVEs We challenge you to find a better place in the world than Bar-EE to sip sundowners.

With endless crystal blue waters and white sandy beach, the panoramic 360-degree view is simply breathtaking. If you’re taking a romantic break, settle in on one of the daybeds for cocktails and canapes. Think tempura vegetable with wasabi mayonnaise, jalapeno poppers and prawn arancini.

Bigger groups should take advantage of the two-for-one happy hour drinks and pair them with delicious bar snacks.

The Jumeirah Vittaveli friturier, or fry cook, will also be on hand every day at the bar to whip up signature cocktails and light bites. Don't miss the Vittaveli Island Cooler and the Rose Collins.

Bar-EE is open daily from 10am to midnight. Call +960 664 2020 or email VittaveliLifestyle@jumeirah.com

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The high life:

The high life: DhOW AND ANChOR, JUMeiRAh BeACh hOTel, DUBAi

The lowdown: Nearly two decades old, the D&A is a cherished fixture

On offer every day is the chef's roast of the day. From turkey or chicken

on the Dubai pub scene, adored by residents and visitors alike. Offering

to leg of lamb and select cuts of beef, all are served with the delight-

contemporary British cuisine in a stylish yet casual environment, the award-

ful trimmings of a traditional roast dinner. Vegetarians needn’t miss out.

winning gastropub boasts fantastic ladies' nights, happy hours, live acous-

Available every day is a nut roast with caramelised root vegetables and

tic entertainment and a sports schedule that footie fans will love.

sticky cranberry sauce.

The aTmosphere: The interiors boast bright and airy spaces for the bar and

InsIder’s TIp: Be sure to save room for dessert. Classics such as the

dining area, featuring natural earthy tones to create a relaxed environment.

cherry trifle and chocolate bread and butter pudding are the perfect sweet

A large terrace with a view of the Burj Al Arab Jumeirah and the surrounding

ending to a delicious meal.

Words: Nina Catt

gardens offer diners an unforgettable al fresco experience.

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BookIng deTaIls: The Dhow and Anchor is open every day for lunch The food: Whether you’re in the mood for comfort food or something

and dinner from 12pm to 2am and for breakfast on Fridays and Saturdays

a little lighter, the D&A has it all. Fisherman’s pie, beef wellington and

from 9am to 12pm.

the signature wagyu burger present hungry diners with a hearty meal while carefully crafted salads feature the freshest of ingredients.

Call +971 4 406 8720 or email restaurants@jumeirah.com

Tel: (+971) 4 337 7000 Email: ahmad@ahmadkurdi.com www.ahmadkurdi.com https://www/facebook.com/ahmadkurdifinejewellery | https://www.instagram.com/ahmadkurdifinejewellery

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