Openskies | December 2010

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YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

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HOURS IN LOS ANGELES RAYMOND LO FENG SHUI MASTER GUJARAT’S KITE FLYING FIESTA

STEPHANIE

GILMORE SURFING SENSATION

MAY 2010 DECEMBER





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nicolas rieussec timewriter. A tribute to the inventor of the first chronograph. Monopusher chronograph, self-winding manufacture movement. 30 min. and 60 sec. rotating disc counters fixed on the counter bridge. 72h power reserve. Crafted in the Montblanc Manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland.

Montblanc Boutiques UAE Dubai: Burjuman, Deira City Centre, Dubai Mall, Emirates Towers, Festival Centre, Grand Hyatt, Ibn Battuta, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Mall of the Emirates, Mirdif City Centre, Wafi; Abu Dhabi: Abu Dhabi Mall, Marina Mall; Al Ain: Al Ain Mall | KSA Riyadh: Kingdom Centre; Jeddah: Red Sea Mall, Corniche Street beside Gazzaz Centre; Al Khobar: Rashid Mall | KUWAIT: 360ยบ Mall, The Avenues, Galleria 2000, Sharq | QATAR: Villaggio Mall, The Mall, City Centre, Four Seasons, Royal Plaza | BAHRAIN: City Centre, Seef Mall, Sheraton Ritz Carlton | OMAN: Muscat City Centre | LEBANON: Bank Street, Beirut

www.montblanc.com


Contents DECEMBER 2010

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Features

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28 SURF’S UP Australian professional surfer Stephanie Gilmore is nicknamed ‘Happy Gilmore’. It’s an apt name, as the 22 year old is the first person to win four consecutive ASP world championships. BY RACHAEL OAKES-ASH

36 THE BEAUTY OF ABRUZZO Whether it’s a hair-raising ski adventure or a leisurely time cruising the slopes and soaking in the surroundings, Abruzzo has something for everyone. BY LUCIANO DI GREGORIO

44 A WILD BEAT It stands to reason that with more than 800 languages Papua New Guinea makes some pretty unique music. Now the island’s musicians are finally getting a shot at the big time thanks to a local recording studio. BY GRAHAM SIMMONS

51 A DRIVING FORCE

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A legendary sportsman with an unmatched record, Mohammed Bin Sulayem applies the same determination that brought him phenomenal success behind the wheel to being a global ambassador for motorsport in the Middle East. BY NICK RICE

59 UNIQUE AND UNUSUAL TRAIN RIDES There’s more than one way of getting from point A to B. When it comes to trains you can choose between the luxurious Orient Express or opt for something rather more unusual. BY ROBIN MC KELVIE

69 FENG SHUI MASTER

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Is your life not as prosperous and healthy as it could be? If the answer is yes, it might be time to call in internationally renowned Feng Shui master Raymond Lo. BY RICHARD WARREN

75 FESTIVE HIGH Gujarat’s annual international kite festival is the state’s biggest festivity with revellers pouring in from all over the world to show off their kite making and flying skills. BY NIKITA MEHTA

78 DINNER AND A VIEW There can be few better backdrops for a restaurant than the Bosphorus, that deep silver channel that separates Asia from Europe and divides Istanbul in two. BY ADRIAN MOURBY

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Regulars 10 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 86 90 92

TRAVEL SHORTS World Matters

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DEPARTURE Coyote Buttes

WANDERLUST Iguazu Falls, Brazil WORLD CALENDAR Events to Diarise WELL TRAVELLED Adrian Hayes, Adventurer STYLE CENTRAL Festive Ideas STREET STYLE Hong Kong MY WORLD Bernd Mayländer, Driver CELEBRITY CITY Ricardo Ferreira’s Rio 48 HOURS in Los Angeles DUBAI DIARY The Hot List COOL STUFF Apps

Emirates News 97 The latest news and information about Emirates, helpful travel tips and its global network.

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COVER PHOTO: WWW.TEDGRAMBEAU.COM Published for Emirates by

PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE. Telephone: (+971 4) 2824060, fax:(+971 4) 2824436, e-mail: emirates@motivate.ae

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Editor-in-Chief Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Group Editor & Managing Partner Ian Fairservice Group Senior Editor Gina Johnson Email: gina@motivate.ae Senior Editor Guido Duken Email: guido@motivate.ae, Arabic Editor Ghoufran Fakhri Email: ghoufran@motivate.ae, Deputy Editor Nick Rice Email: nick@motivate.ae Editorial Assistant Hilda D’Souza Art Directors Tarak Parekh, Rehab Barham Designer Michelle Liu General Manager – Production and Circulation S Sasidharan Production Manager C Sudhakar General Manager, Group Sales Anthony Milne Email: anthony@motivate.ae Business Development Manager Nicola Hudson Email: nicola@motivate.ae Senior Advertisement Manager Jaya Balakrishnan Email: jaya@motivate.ae; Deputy Advertisement Manager Murali Narayanan Advertisement Manager Shruti Srivastava Editorial Consultants for Emirates: Editor: Siobhan Bardet Arabic Editor: Hatem Omar Deputy Editor: Stephanie Byrne Website: emirates.com INTERNATIONAL MEDIA REPRESENTATIVES AUSTRALIA Okeeffe Media; Tel +61 89 381 7425, Fax +61 89 382 4850, okeeffekev@bigpond.com.au CHINA/HONG KONG Emphasis Media Limited; Tel +85 22 516 1048, Fax +85 22 561 3349, advertising@emphasis.net CYPRUS Epistle Communications & Media; Tel +35 72 246 6555, Fax +35 72 276 9999, nasreenk@epistlemedia.com FRANCE/SWITZERLAND Intermedia Europe Ltd; Tel +33 15 534 9550, Fax +33 15 534 9549, administration@intermedia.europe.com GERMANY IMV Internationale Medien Vermarktung GmbH, Phone: 0049 8151 550 8959, Fax: 0049 8151 550 9180 w.jaeger@imv-media.com INDIA Media Star; Tel +91 22 281 5538/39/40, Fax +91 22 283 9619, ravi@mediastar.co.in ITALY IMM Italia; Tel +39 023 653 4433, Fax +39 029 998 1376, lucia.colucci@fastwebnet.it JAPAN Skynet Media Inc.; Tel/Fax +81 43 278 6977, skynetmedia@y2.dion.ne.jp TURKEY Media Ltd; Tel +90 212 275 8433, Fax +90 212 275 9228, mediamarketingtr@medialtd.com.tr UK Spafax Inflight Media; Tel +44 207 906 2001, Fax +44 207 906 2022, nhopkins@spafax.com USA Redwood Custom Communications Inc.; Tel 212-473-5679 x 313 , Fax 212-260-3509, brigitte.baron@redwoodcc.com

Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy, please contact The Editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general, and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE


Mediterranean Sea, 1940s. "Gamma" men in training. The diver emerging from the water is wearing a Panerai compass on his wrist.

HISTORY ALWAYS LEAVES A TRACE. LUMINOR SUBMERSIBLE Automatic mechanical movement OP III calibre, COSC certified. Water-resistance 300 metres. Unidirectional rotating bezel. Steel case 44 mm Ø. Steel adjustable buckle.

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Available exclusively at Panerai boutiques and select authorized watch specialists. Dubai - Panerai Boutique, Dubai Mall, +971 4 339 8444, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, Wafi City, +971 4 324 6060, Mall of the Emirates, +971 4 341 1211, Emirates Towers, +971 4 3300 888 Abu Dhabi - Al Manara Jewellery, Hamdan Street +971 2 627 2222, Abu Dhabi Mall, +971 2 645 7575


travelshorts CULTURE ICON

tu TRAVEL CARD

Smart Travel Card

The inukshuk is a traditional structure assembled using stones and it is used as a navigation tool and a marker by the Inuit of the Canadian Arctic. As there are very few natural landmarks in the area above the Arctic Circle where the Inuit live, the inukshuk – which are found from Alaska to Greenland – are a perfect reference point for checking direction. They are also used as markers to indicate a hunting ground or a food cache. A common inukshuk is simply one stone positioned upright on the ground, although they can be built from many loose stones to resemble a person with one arm outstretched, as if pointing out the right direction. Varying in shape and size, the inukshuk has deep historical roots in the Inuit culture. At Enukso Point on Baffin Island there are over 100 inukshuk and the area has been designated as one of Canada’s national historic sites.

CORBIS

Travellers may soon be able to ride the London Underground, the Paris Metro and New York’s subway without ever having to buy a ticket thanks to new technology that could be ready by 2012. Transport for London is working alongside its counterparts in America, Australia and Europe on a proposal to harmonise ticketing systems. Under the plan it would be possible to wave a specially designed credit or debit card at a reader to use the local transport network, using technology known as ‘contactless payment’. With millions of tourists crossing the globe to visit major cities for business and leisure, the aim is to simplify their travel and spare people the hassle of buying a local travel card. A number of cities are involved in talks over setting up a common standard, including Paris, New York, Boston, Chicago, Sydney and Manchester.

Superlatively Speaking

COMPLIED BY HILA D’SOUZA

Five of the World’s Most Expensive Stadiums.

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Wembley Stadium Located in Wembley Park in the London Borough of Brent, England, the stadium was completed at a whopping $1.5 billion. Inaugurated in 2007 the 90,000-capacity venue is the second largest stadium in Europe, and serves as England’s national stadium.

Open Skies

Olympic Stadium Designed by French architect Roger Taillibert, this multi-purpose stadium in Montreal, Canada, cost an impressive $1.4 billion. It was built as the main venue for the 1976 Summer Olympics.

Madison Square Garden Stadium Abbreviated as MSG and popularly known as ‘The Garden’, this versatile indoor arena in the heart of New York City was built at a handsome price of $1.1 billion. MSG is the third busiest arena in the world in terms of ticket sales.

Stade de France Developed to the tune of $974 million, this is the national stadium of France. Situated in the Parisian suburb of SaintDenis, the stadium has hosted prestigious world events including the FIFA World Cup, World Championships in Athletics and the Rugby World Cup.

Rogers Centre Stadium Situated next to the CN Tower near the shores of Lake Ontario in Canada, the venue was opened in 1989 at a budget of $930 million. The stadium is noted for being the first to have a fully-retractable motorised roof.



travelshorts

GETTY IMAGES

Disneyland Comes to China

per·i·pa·tet·ic 1. Walking or travelling about; itinerant. 2. Of or pertaining to Aristotle, who taught philosophy while walking in the Lyceum of ancient Athens.

China welcomes Mickey Mouse to Shanghai as the Walt Disney Company struck a deal estimated to be worth $3.47 billion. The landmark deal has been described as one of the largest foreign investments in China to date. In a joint venture with local companies, Disney plans that the initial resort will boast a mix of shopping areas, hotels and a Magic Kingdom-style theme park that will sprawl across 400 hectares of the city’s Pudong district, with the theme park occupying about a tenth of that area. The ambitious plan is on par with parks in Paris and Tokyo and is expected to be open by 2014.

TRAVEL TIP

WHEN IN ROME...

UNIVERSAL ETIQUETTE ON EATING WITH CHOPSTICKS

In Russia, don’t point with your finger. Instead, point with your entire hand.

It’s bad manners to make noise or gesticulate with your chopsticks.

■ Definitely avoid pushing or shoving bowls or plates around the table using the slender sticks.

Chopsticks are not for toying with one’s food or with dishes in between mouthfuls or when in conversation at the dinner table. CORBIS

While you may pierce food items that are difficult to pick up, such as cherry tomatoes, it’s best not to do so often as it’s generally considered impolite.

Chopsticks should never stand upright or vertical in your bowl. This gesture is used to honour deceased family members.

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When you are finished with your meal, you can put the chopsticks across your bowl. This will signal that you are done.

In Uganda, understand that children will only talk during a meal if asked a question. In Hong Kong, don’t give a clock as a gift. Clocks are associated with death and funerals and a clock as a gift can be seen as a sinister action.


Official Agent

Abu Dhabi - Khalidia Mall, Dubai - Burj Al Arab Emirates Towers, Madinat Jumeirah, Mina Al Salam Dubai Mall, Mall of the Emirates, Burjuman (SAKS), Wafi City

Abu Dhabi - Abu Dhabi Mall: 6452080 Dubai - Al Maktoum St.: 2236525

Royal Majesty, Al Ghurair City: 2275181

Kuwait: Majestic Palace: 2403239, Bahrain: Asia Jewellers: 534444, Turkey: Empire Istanbul: 212 - 2313542, Airport: 4654291, Singapore: Hysek Boutique, The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands: +65 6688 7077

www.hysek.com


wanderlust

Iguazu Falls, Brazil The border between Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay is home to the Iguazu Falls, one of the largest series of waterfalls on Earth. The Iguazu River that forms the falls rises in the Serra do Mar mountain ranges that span Brazil’s Curitiba region, flowing through the entire state of Parana. The majestic spectacle begins

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to form in Iguazu National Park in the city of Foz do Iguaçu. In the midst of the park’s green foliage the waters first form natural pools and then crash down from gigantic basalt walls in a total of 275 individual falls. The enormous waterfalls are naturally arranged in a semi-circle and stretch over 800 metres. ❖



worldcalendar

January 2011

Highlights of global events for the month ahead. 1, SATURDAY ROSE PARADE Thousands of revellers will crowd the streets of Pasadena, California, to celebrate the New Year with the annual Rose Parade. The colourful procession features magnificent floral floats, high-stepping equestrians and spirited marching bands. tournamentofroses.com

18-21, TUESDAY BAY OF ISLANDS SAILING WEEK A week of competitive racing and lively social activities unfold at New Zealand’s premier sailing event, which is held at the Opua Wharf in the Bay of Islands. After the day’s sailing the party really starts. bayofislandssailingweek.org.nz

1, SATURDAY CAPE MINSTREL CARNIVAL Capetonians in South Africa will gear up for their favourite annual gala which is popularly known as ‘Kaapse Klopse’. This major feature of the city’s New Year celebrations merges local culture with street parades and music. sa-venues.com

19-20, WEDNESDAY TAMBORRADA PARADE The Spanish coastal town of San Sebastian resounds to drumbeats when parades of drummers, clad as chefs or soldiers, take to the streets to celebrate the traditional and non-stop 24-hour Tamborrada fiesta. whatsansebastian.com/la-tamborrada.html

5-8, WEDNESDAY HONG KONG TENNIS CLASSIC This year’s players include three of the world’s top four: Caroline Wozniacki, Venus Williams and Vera Zvonareva. The tournament is held at Victoria Park tennis stadium in Hong Kong, China. hongkongtennisclassic.com

COMPLIED BY HILA D’SOUZA

6, THURSDAY LA CIASPOLADA The world’s largest snowshoe race annually attracts more than 6,000 participants to Italy’s Val de Non region. This notoriously slippery run is ruled by difficult vineyard hills and challenging weather conditions. ciaspolada.it

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14, FRIDAY PONGAL India’s southern states celebrate the traditional harvest festival in style as homes are covered in garlands. The day is celebrated with cultural programmes, boat races and community feasts. pongalfestival.org

20- 20 FEBRUARY, THURSDAY DUBAI SHOPPING FESTIVAL The UAE’s annual mega tourist event draws around 1.6 million shopping lovers to Dubai, which is renowned for its sun, sand and shopping malls. There’s also a wide range of accompanying special events. mydsf.com 23-24, SUNDAY COUPE DU MONDE DE LA PATISSERIE The very best international pastry chefs come to Lyon, France, hoping for sweet success. Twenty two countries compete for The World Pastry Cup, which sets the benchmark for pastry making. cmpatisserie.com/2011/ 28-7 FEBRUARY, FRIDAY 34TH GÖTEBORG INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL An audience of 200,000 visitors are attracted to Gothenburg, Sweden, by celebs, film premiers and workshops. Vibeke Løkkeberg’s Tears of Gaza is heading the line-up. giff.se


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welltravelled

Adrian Hayes

A passion for adventure as a teenager has taken Adrian Hayes a long way from rockclimbing, skydiving and adventure racing to smashing two Guinness World Records. His thirst for adventure hasn’t been quenched just yet, writes Hilda D’Souza.

Hayes has conquered the coldest places on earth, but now he’s ready for some hot competition at the Abu Dhabi Adventure Challenge.

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Adrian Hayes, the UAE-based British adventurer has many feathers in his extreme expedition cap. His quest to test the limits has taken him to some of the harshest environments on this planet. Hayes became the Guinness World Record holder for being the fastest man to complete the ‘Three Poles Challenge’, which involved trekking to the North Pole, South Pole and summiting Mount Everest. He accomplished the feat on 28 December 2007, taking 19 months and three days in total and shaving five months off the record. Now Hayes has broken his second Guinness World Record by accomplishing the longest unsupported snow-kiting expedition across Greenland. It took 67 days to walk and kite 4,262 kilometres from the northern tip of Greenland to the northwest with his teammates Devon McDiarmid and Derek Crowe. This was also the first time that this route had been conquered. “Our expedition along the length of Greenland was one of the most strategically challenging and difficult I have accomplished and, whilst I don’t do this for

record’s sake, I’m delighted it has been recognised by Guinness, a nice recognition for a great team efforts,” said the explorer. Don’t think Hayes is a glory hunter though. He uses the global media attention of his recordbreaking quests to highlight issues surrounding global warming. He has also raised considerable funds for the UK based Children’s Hope Foundation and UAE based Friends of Cancer Patients charities from his expeditions. He is also an ambassador for Bio Regional’s One Planet Living, the newly launched Worldwide Movement for Happiness and the UAE based Gulf for Good charity. Far removed from the world of adventure, Hayes, who is married with two children, is also an accomplished businessman with a senior corporate background. Proving he can scale numbers as well, he completed a six-year stint as Regional Sales Director for Airbus Middle East. But it is tackling nature that really inspires him. The die-hard adventurer has set his sights on a new test of mind, body and soul with the Abu Dhabi Adventure Challenge. Hayes and his handpicked team will tackle the gruelling, multi-discipline annual endurance race from December 4 to 9. ❖



stylecentral Alexander McQueen No woman can have enough bags so why not buy her a classy new addition from Alexander McQueen. alexandermcqueen.com

Sephora Presenting a palette of almost every shade imaginable, Sephora makes the perfect gift for glamour lovers. sephora.com

Festive Ideas

Sought-after gifts for your loved ones this holiday season.

TEXT: HILDA D’SOUZA

Chopard Internationally famous, Chopard is a master designer of luxury watches. Spoil yourself with one of these extravagant timepieces. chopard.com

S.T. Dupont Make a strong style statement with this artistically-crafted pen from S.T. Dupont’s Samurai Limited Edition. st-dupont.com

Versace Entertain in style with these classic teaware accessories from the sophisticated Italian fashion house Versace. versace.com Mandarina Duck This Mandarina Duck travel bag in a trendy colour makes for the perfect finish to a business man’s attire. mandarinaduck.com

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streetstyle

Hong Kong fashionable congregate here at Sogo, Fashion Walk, Beverly Centre and countless other venues to shop, strut their stuff, see and be seen. Over on the mainland in Mong Kok ‘Ladies Street’ (its official name – Tung Choi Street) is the more traditional spot for affordable ready-to-wear and more practical togs. ❖

PHOTOS: JOHN LANDER

Hong Kong is a city state that appears like the world’s largest shopping mall. Besides the duty free camera shops and watches, all the international designers are well represented. Add to this a few local homegrown talents that are making a name for themselves both here and abroad. Causeway Bay on Hong Kong Island is ground zero for fashion. The

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myworld

Bernd Mayländer, Driver Whenever there’s a crash or adverse weather conditions in Formula 1 the safety car comes on track to slow things down. A case in point was the season ending Abu Dhabi Grand Prix where the safety car was deployed after Michael Schumacher and Vitantonio Liuzzi smacked together on the first lap. Now we all know the famous drivers like recently crowned World Champion Sebastian Vettel and runner up Fernando Alonso, but who’s the guy driving the safety car? His name is Bernd Mayländer and he’s no slouch behind the steering wheel with a racing career and numerous wins that stretch back to 1988. Guido Duken caught up with him for the inside track.

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You’ve won quite a few races in your life. Which one is your fondest memory? My victory at the 24-hour race at the Nürburgring in 2000 immediately comes to mind because that’s the track where I started racing. Race experience obviously helps when you drive the safety car in F1 and GP2. What aspects of race experience are the most useful? Well, it’s definitely useful to be able to think like a race driver and, of course, you need to be able to drive the car very quickly but still safely.


How did you end up driving the safety car? I take it that you didn’t simply answer an ad in the newspaper. The FIA asked me in 1999 to drive the safety car for Formula 3000. At the end of that season they asked me if I also wanted to drive the safety car in F1. At the same time I continued to drive in the DTM (Deutsche Tourenwagen Masters) for Mercedes until 2004. Describe your role as a safety car driver. On the Thursday of a GP I do a one hour test to check the condition of the course, the radio equipment and to familiarise myself with the track. I also attend all the drivers’ briefings over the event weekend and do a track test every morning to inform race control of any possible problems. I am in the car during all support races and of course F1. I get all my orders from race control and I am in constant contact with them.

All in all, you have a strange job. You are probably happy when you aren’t needed to do your job in an F1 race. And when you are on the circuit you’re the one driver that the fans are happy to see retiring back to the pit permanently. That’s true but the safety car is necessary to make sure that all dangerous or difficult situations on the track are handled in the safest and best possible way. How difficult is it to keep up a high speed when you have F1 cars following you in really bad weather like at this year’s Korean GP? It is never easy, particularly with weather conditions like in Korea, where it was not possible to drive while guaranteeing a safe race. That’s why the race was red-flagged until the conditions improved. As a German perhaps you can explain why there are currently so many German drivers in F1? Since Michael Schumacher entered F1 in the early 90s there has been an increased interest in motorsports in general in Germany, which inspired a whole new generation. Also the German car manufacturers have been giving a lot of support to motorsport in Germany, which helps groom local talent. What are your duties as a brand ambassador for Mercedes-Benz? I guess that means you have a really cool company car off the track. What model is it and why do you like it? I do a lot of car presentations all over the world for Mercedes. I am also an instructor of the AMG Driving Academy and I support the Mercedes DTM at nearly all race weekends. At the moment I’m equipped with an AMG E63, which is a very nice car and great to drive. Ok, you’re the safety car driver so the question has to be asked: Received any traffic fines lately? I can drive quickly on the track, so I don’t need to do it on the road. The traffic fines are usually my father’s! What is a safety car driver’s worst nightmare? To crash the car in front of a worldwide TV audience! If that should happen, I have no plan B. ❖

December 2010

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celebritycities

RICARDO FERREIRA, MY RIO The best place to understand the vibe of Rio de Janeiro is the beach. The sea is an everyday presence in the life of most Cariocas, the city’s residents. Like many people from Rio, I spent a pretty carefree youth surfing and spearfishing around the rocky promontories off Ipanema, which was always the best place to ride the waves. Back then, Ipanema was the centre of an important cultural movement. Bossa nova was just starting up and the people who hung out there were the most creative figures in Brazil. Ipanema is smaller than Monaco, yet this narrow strip of sand between the sea and the lagoon produced the most creative people in the country. At that time, the people around me were bohemians: poets, artists, musicians and photographers, the people who went on to set new trends in Brazilian fashion, music and cinema. The whole area was almost uninhabited, there was nothing but sand. Most importantly, it was cheap. I would spend each day spearfishing, returning at night to hear Tom Jobim strumming his guitar on the beach. It was a very romantic time. My business started in a beach-bum fashion in the early 1960s, selling handcrafted leather belts along the sand and then moving on to silk-screen T-shirts emblazoned with pop slogans. But Ipanema became Brazil’s fashion centre and I moved with that wave. I started designing men’s clothing, always favouring colourful, simply cut designs, and I opened my first Richards store in 1974. We model our image on an ‘unstructured’ kind of lifestyle, and I try to live accordingly. I’ve never worn a suit in my life and I mix hard work with a lot of adventure sports and travel. With my first profits I bought a yacht and sailed around the Mediterranean. A year later, I became the world spearfishing champion. I lost a lot of friends in diving accidents, but I still skin dive and also spend several weeks a year sailing in the Caribbean and the Med. The best place to fish for marlin and sailfish is off 26

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WHERE TO EATAA ESPIRITO SANTA Creative Amazonian dishes include piranha soup and giant tambaqui river fish, prepared in coconut milk and spices. The rear terrace, shaded by an epiphyte-festooned Tahitian apple tree, overlooks a hillside of stately mansions. espiritosanta.com.br SATYRICON Pick your catch from the tank at this Ipanema fish restaurant, where the fish come live from the cold waters off Cabo Frio, three hours east of Rio. satyricon.com.br RESTAURANTE APRAZÍVEL Artfully designed dishes from northeastern Brazil, such as prawns, crab and tropical sea fish paired with saffron, coconut and fruit. Kick off with a Carambela cocktail—sparkling wine, rum, starfruit and mint—but save space for energygiving açaí-palm ice cream. aprazivel.com.br WHERE TO SLEEPAA HOTEL FASANO A slick Philippe Starck-designed hotel on Ipanema’s prized beachfront, decorated with floor-to-ceiling drapes and lustrous tropical hardwoods, with a hip restaurant, darkly attractive bar and luxurious rooftop pool. fasano.com.br MAMA RUISA A design-minded bed-and-breakfast in leafy Santa Teresa with well-crafted interiors and cedarwood furniture, enlivened by a colourful collection of santería kitsch, with stunning views of Guanabara Bay from the lush garden. mamaruisa.com WHERE TO HANG OUTA ARMAZÉM SÃO THIAGO Quaint drinking den where the faded sepia photos and wood-and-marble counter have changed little since it opened in 1919. Rua Áurea 26, Santa Teresa; +55 21 2232 0822 JOATINGA BEACH For laid-back beach life, this littleknown cove, 20 minutes from Ipanema, is protected by steep cliffs and the towering face of the 850-metre Pedra da Gávea. WHAT TO DOA TIJUCA NATIONAL PARK Pedal past waterfalls and jungle-carpeted peaks from beachside São Conrado to Christ’s statue on Mount Corcovado. trilhasdorio.com.br JARDIM BOTÂNICO Spot Rio’s few remaining brazilwood trees – along with 6,000 other tropical tree and plant species – at the city’s 200-year-old botanical garden, where glasshouses protect large collections of orchids, cactii and insectivores. jbrj.gov.br MUSEUM OF NAÏVE ART Brazil’s self-taught ‘naïve’ artists rely on earthy sentiment, gutsy passion and large doses of fun. This 6,000-work collection features colourful depictions of Brazilian street scenes, the country’s fauna and its true religion: soccer. museunaif.com.br

Cabo Frio, about three hours east of Rio. I use buoys and a 60-metre flexible floatline to subdue the larger fish. You’re 10 kilometres out in the open ocean where the current is strong, the water’s deep and a very clear blue. It’s a little dangerous but there are record-breaking fish out there. If you want to windsurf, the best place is Punto Pepê in Barra da Tijuca, to the west of Rio. It was named after a local hang gliding champion and the prevailing winds always produce good surf where they hit the shoreline. These days, at weekends, I go mountain biking through Tijuca national park, the world’s largest urban forest. You can ride from the beach at São Conrado up to Christ’s statue on Mount Corcovado. There are all kinds of animals – tanagers and toucans, wild cats and capuchin monkeys – and there’s also a lovely path that descends to the botanical gardens in Gávea. I try to capture some of this romance in Richards clothing. I think of the stores as cultural oases, spaces where you can take a moment, listen to some music, or reflect a while. They take you away from the daily rush of life. And all the time these fantastic clothes are hanging in front of you, haphazardly, almost like in an old warehouse. It seems to capture Rio’s laid-back vibe because now we have 68 Richards stores on some of Brazil’s glitziest streets. Rio’s changed a lot since the 1960s, but it still seems a magical place. I can go to the most beautiful countries in the world and tell people I’m from Rio, and their reaction is always: ‘Ahhhh!’ ❖ As told to Colin Barraclough

Ricardo Ferreira, founder of Brazilian clothing brand Richards, is a former world spearfishing champion.

December 2010

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Surf's Up IMAGES COURTESY OF RIP CURL

Australian professional surfer Stephanie Gilmore’s nickname is ‘Happy Gilmore’ and who wouldn’t be happy at twenty two years of age with four world champion surfing titles already under your bikini belt, reports Rachael Oakes-Ash.

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hat’s nothing, you say, Layne Beachley won seven world titles in her career. Yes, she did, but Stephanie Louise Gilmore is the youngest surfer, male or female, to ever win four world crowns back to back. Plus Gilmore did it in style by winning four out of five Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) World Tour events in 2010. But don’t be fooled by her happy demeanour and her trademark grin. Behind this laid back persona is a competitive young woman who likes to win. Born in the northern New South Wales region of Murwullimbah, Gilmore grew up in the coastal town of Kingscliff where her surf mad father, Jeff Gilmore, taught her and her two elder sisters to surf. With access to some of the best waves in Australia along the New South Wales and Queensland border, Gilmore junior got to surf the best with the best. “My Dad always brought me to Snapper Rocks, where I live now, it’s the best beach for surfing due to it’s super long point break,” explains Gilmore by Skype phone from the apartment she bought in Open Skies

Rainbow Bay, Tweed Heads, after signing a million dollar contract with Rip Curl while still at school. “There was access to so many pro surfers like Mick Fanning and Mark Occhilupo and I have been able to watch them my whole life. They were out there every day. I am part of the Snapper board riders club and all the pros were members too. Every second weekend the pros are at home and they’d be there hanging out with all of us grommets (rookie surfers). It’s why I live here now, in the same area, it’s really down to earth and there are so many pro surfers around that you don’t walk down the street with people wanting your autograph.” There must be something in the Tweed Heads water because at 17 Gilmore rocked the surfing world as a wild card entry to the Roxy Gold Coast Pro tournament at her home beach of Snapper Rocks, making news headlines as the girl from nowhere who beat world champion, Layne Beachley. “It was the first event when I got to take a day off school,” says Gilmore, who entered, and won, her first amateur competition at 11. “I was sitting


INSPIRATION

December 2010

29


INSPIRATION

30

Open Skies

nt

yd

ay t t a h e a t b he you can firs t meet ing.

Encouraged by her parents, she did get a complete education. “I hassled her enough to get her school work done,” recalls her father. Gilmore credits graduating high school for her ability to handle the professional side of being a world class athlete – she has invested her money in three properties with occasional spending sprees on her other loves, fashion and music. “I have played guitar since I was 10,” says Gilmore who listens to music on tour for chill-out time. “I am an old soul, I listen to a lot of Jimmy Hendrix, John Lee Hooker and Jeff Buckley. My mum listens to a lot of that stuff including Bob Dylan, and I remember trying to play Dad’s songbooks when I was younger, he’s a pretty good singer. It’s my back- up plan, music, I’ve even picked up a couple of electric guitars in my travels.” Not that she needs a backup plan. The fashion mad Gilmore shares her passion for edgier designer labels like Alexander McQueen and Alexander Wang with her sister,

ver

at recess with my friends at school and we were laughing saying ‘imagine if I won’. Then I got out there and I actually got past all the heats and then I was surfing against Layne. I kept thinking, if I make this next heat I will get a day off school, but instead I won the whole thing.” Her father and manager Jeff, remembers it well. “I guess I felt a moment of, wow, when she answered back to, at the time, six-time-world title champion Layne Beachley. I was thinking how exciting it was for Steph just to surf against the greatest woman surfer we know. But as the 25 minutes progressed Steph continued to build momentum, and the more Layne’s scores improved, Steph picked up the pace. It wasn’t that I thought Steph would win multiple titles, just that she was going to be a champion. It is hard to believe she is so young with achievements like this.” It is not every day that you can beat your hero in the first meeting. Growing up female in the male dominated world of surfing Gilmore looked up to fellow Aussie surfer chicks like Pam Burridge, who won a World Title in 1990, Lisa Andersen, who won four back to back world titles from 1994 to 1997, and the most successful female surfer to date, Layne Beachley. “The first two years I was on tour, Layne was still on tour too,” says Gilmore, who considers Beachley her mentor. “She was a good one to watch as she is on a whole other level to other girls. She travelled by herself and did her own thing but she was very willing to open up and answer questions and share her wisdom with me. What I enjoyed observing was that she wasn’t just a surfer; she’s an athlete and a businesswoman. She was willing to speak her mind to the ASP and she wasn’t afraid to speak to the guys about why women’s surfing is so great and why we need the same respect. The total prize pool for a men’s pro event is still about $500,000 and total for women’s is only $100,000. The winners get $40 to 50,000 and women only get $15,000. I understand there are more men competing but at the same time we’ve spent the same amount of money as they have to get to these events.” The prize money may be uneven but Gilmore has still built a decent nest egg. She collected $300,000 in prize money in her first three years of professional surfing, not to mention sponsorship dollars from Rip Curl, Sanitarium Up & Go and Ford.

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INSPIRATION

"Ninety minutes of what we do may be physical and the other ninety minutes may just be talking, head space is so important to winning or losing."”

Top: Mental stength is as important as fitness and skill in the competitive world of professional surfing. Gilmore gets her mental edge by training at the CHEK institute.

Whitney, who she describes as the ‘glamorous one’. Her own fashion label, Stephanie Gilmore for Rip Curl, is now on the cards as she is working with Mary Miller, the head designer. “It’s going to be a globally distributed brand. It’s not hardcore surf and not high fashion but it is definitely higher quality than just board shorts,” laughs Gilmore. Professional surfer and fashion designer, Gilmore takes it all in her stride and still finds time to give back to the community. Her smiling face is often seen at the local community kids surf contests and 32

Open Skies

she is an ambassador for the Surf Life Saving Clubs of Australia and also for the Black Dog Institute that helps people with depression. “Being active and physically healthy is so important, especially to young girls,” says Gilmore when asked about being a role model. “Being healthy and being skinny are two different things. I love to look at the tennis athletes, they work really hard and they’re on the red carpet looking healthy, fit and like young girls having fun. That represents the perfect role model for girls as it’s achievable and not an unhealthy, ‘starve yourself’ image.”

Above right: Giving back to the community is a part that Gilmore takes seriously. She is involved in numerous charities and supports children’s surfing contests. Above left: Gilmore poses with the Laureus World Action Sportsperson of the Year award that she won earlier this year.


M A R Q U I S E BY PA S PA L E Y Ê " Ê / Ê , / - Ê Ê Ê 1 Ê Ê Ê Ê /

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INSPIRATION

I'm now a good loser, I can let it go and learn from it, it's not the end of the world.

Wrestling with her own demons on the competition circuit has taken some concentrated work with Jan Carton at the CHEK institute (Corrective Holistic Exercise Kinesiology) on the Gold Coast. Gilmore trains with her for three hours at a time, three times a week. “Ninety minutes of what we do may be physical and the other ninety minutes may just be talking, head space is so important to winning or losing,” says Gilmore. “I’m now a good loser, I can let it go and learn from it, it’s not the end of the world. For a long time I used to do the replay in my head of what I did wrong but I have learnt an incredible amount of sports psychology from Jan.” Gilmore is aware she is blessed and in her humble

34

Open Skies

way claims ‘luck’ to play a big part in her success. “In the ocean I feel there is a lot of luck involved with waves but I also believe you can make your own luck,” explains Gilmore. “You’d be surprised how often a wave pops up when you need it if you are in the right head space. Currently I love competing but I know that I have so much room for improvement. You can win a world title but in whose eyes are you the best surfer in the world? Yes, I would love to win another world title. But there’s no set number, if I am not enjoying it anymore that’s when I will move onto my back up plan and become a rock star.” Her laugh gives away the joke but we suspect if she plays the guitar like she rides a surfboard, she’s got a hit recording career ahead of her. ❖

Above: The ASP World Tour takes Gilmore to some of the most exotic locations on the planet. She plans to continue competitive surfing until the day she stops enjoying it.



TRAVEL

THE

BEAUTY OF

ABRUZZO

Whether it’s a hair-raising ski adventure or a leisurely time cruising the slopes and soaking in the surroundings, Abruzzo has something for everyone, reports Luciano Di Gregorio.

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Open Skies


TRAVEL

M

y feet sink knee-high into the spongy, white snow and touch the damp sand beneath. There’s a striking incongruence to the moment that never fails to amaze. Not six months ago, Abruzzo’s gleaming beaches had been their usual escape haven for the smattering of shivering northern Europeans seeking the glow of a Mediterranean sun and the company of oil-slicked, tanning Italians. The smell of jasmine filled the warm air, and their streets awash with sunshine, the Abruzzesi people ushered in the summer with beaming smiles. The current reality is the harshest winter for a decade and, city roofs doused in a blinding shade of porous white, I head away from Pescara, Abruzzo’s stylish capital and my

city of birth, to the ancient towns, mountain crests and skiing pistes of the nearby mountains. The drive inland from the coast through the gently rising hills inspires pride in the most humble of locals, and whilst the rattling of the rickety Fiat Uno’s snow chains might be thunderous, the focus is on the dramatic scene of jagged mountains piercing heavy clouds. Snow spills freely from their steep faces and ancient villages, sprinkled across the mountains like icing sugar, cling to rocky cliffs, having defied the laws of physics for untold generations and confident of doing so for many more. Their laneways, often so narrow that a facing neighbour’s window ledge is but an arm’s

December 2010

37


TRAVEL

Top: Ovindoli is centrally located in some of Italy’s best skiing country. Bottom: Skiers in multicoloured fashions cover the mountain in Ovindoli.

38

Open Skies

length away, are drenched in a thick blanket of snow and lined with coloured lights welcoming in the festive season and creating an ineffably convivial atmosphere. Indeed, Abruzzo’s central Apennines, boasting the tallest summits in non-Alpine mainland Italy, are a vision of pearly white during the colder months, when, in utter contrast to the unspeakably hot summers the region experiences, snow falls aplenty. With the peaks and plateaus of three expansive national and regional parks, Abruzzo is the ‘it’ spot for the thrill and adventure of winter sports and a veritable playground for those wishing to don boots, goggles and skis in order to conquer the numerous and diverse mountain runs on offer.

Accompanied by Davide, a newfound friend from my forays researching a guidebook to the region, the first stop is the ancient town of Ovindoli, nestled since pre-Roman times on a plateau between the towering crests of the Sirente and Velino massifs. Mirroring the rest of regional Abruzzo, life has a particularly slow pace here despite the countless Italians who, in the months of December and January, descend on this place with as much gusto and fervour as they would a gelato (ice cream) on a hot summer night. Resulting from its mountainous territory, Abruzzo enjoyed relative isolation for hundreds of years, but since the construction of the railway spanning from Rome through the depths of the region in the 1890s, Ovindoli has been a hotspot for winter sporting activities and Davide, a local in the area, whisks me away to experience the town’s possibilities first-hand. Ovindoli lays proud claim to the peaks of Monte Magnola, a majestic mountain rising to heights of over 2,200 metres above sea level. Accessing the ski runs, which all begin from some 200 metres below the summit, is an easy feat from Piazzale Magnola, located just outside Ovindoli’s old town. On this square, skiing schools and equipment providers jostle for space and beg you to part with your wellearned money. But all for a good cause: the rewarding immersion into a winter wonderland of snow and fast-paced skiing. At Topolino, a piste marked as one of the easiest on the mountain, enthusiastic children, carefully monitored by parents and instructors,



TRAVEL

Top: Celano is a large town dominated by its stately castle.

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Open Skies

plough the 350-metre run with equipment that, in true Abruzzese fashion-conscious style, is perhaps more apt for an expert skier rather than a dabbling youngster. Conversely, the 3000 metres of Pistone, one of the most challenging runs in and around the area, is decked with keen amateurs rubbing shoulders with Italy’s most elite professional skiers. Being neither particularly proficient nor newcomers to the world of skiing in Abruzzo, we chose Fontefredda, a medium-difficulty run seemingly invaded by 20something snow-obsessed Abruzzesi who look as if they were born for the sole purpose of triumphing over the mountain slopes. The run begins with a gentle decline before ceding to a somewhat steeper and consequently hair-raising segment. Never failing to marvel at the speed gathered when gliding along the silky snow, the resulting buzz gives way to a sense of thrill as a cyan sky frames glimpses of the whitewashed town through curves in the track and breaks between mountain peaks. At the finish line, the elation of a mountain conquered brings a not altogether surprising desire for a hearty meal and a warm drink to thaw the fingertips. At a restaurant

in nearby Celano, a large town dominated by the fortified walls of a stately castle and evincing layers of history that span from the pre-Roman Italic tribes, the main course is served directly by the beaming chef. The chitarra al tartufo fresco is a squaredshaped homemade spaghetti with fresh truffles and is not only a welcome carbohydrate overload to fill any groaning belly, but a true gastronomic workout.



TRAVEL

Top: A view over the valley with the Celano castle overlooking the town. Above: Pescocostanzo is a small town with a population of around 250.

42

Open Skies

With lightning speed, a waiter pours a glass of the region’s famed Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and swishes it vigorously around the wine glass. Refusing a second (and indeed third) course seems wise but, with little choice in the matter, a dessert is quickly ushered out. The chef declares himself as being from the town of Guardiagrele, on the eastern outskirts of the Majella National Park, and with pride, and presents the town’s staple dessert. Small, dome-shaped sponge cakes filled to the brim with fresh custard and topped

with a sprinkling of castor sugar. After devouring the delightful treat, the meal is capped off with a ratafia liqueur, an Abruzzese digestive of medieval origins that would be enjoyed by nobility to ‘ratify’ a contract or agreement over anything from an exchange of property to an accord of marriage. Conversation flows with the restaurant and hotel’s friendly owner, who is reeling from the recent catering of a ski-themed wedding with no less than 250 guests. That’s about the entire population of the historic centre of Pescocostanzo, the next stop, an hour southeast of Celano. A nearby hill lends perspective over the terracotta roofs and spiralling laneways of the town, its iconic pastel-hued flowers of summer blending into piles of snow being shovelled vigorously from doorways by shop owners. The historical centre of the town with its 14th and 15th century civic buildings is undoubtedly one of Abruzzo’s most majestic. Charming turrets adorn stone buildings that have stood the test of time and church spires and domes grace the skyline. The likes of frescoes and imposing palaces aside, the immediate area is yet another hub of winter sporting activities and the town is one of three, alongside nearby Roccaraso and Rividondoli, used as a base to access the diverse runs on offer. Where Ovindoli caters


to all ability levels but with a focus on practiced or accomplished skiiers, the Pescocostanzo area is the perfect place for beginners and eager amateurs, where there are no less than 10 runs classified as a welcoming ‘easy’. Indeed, overzealous youngsters trounce various pistes with relative ease, much to the contentment of skiing instructors from the first-rate schools that have set up base in the area. We take one such run, La Valletta, effortlessly. The 650 metre piste descends gradually in all its white glory, snow creased with the numerous marks made by previous skiers. The run peters out moments before the sun begins to steal quickly behind the mountains, and a local cup of mulled wine in town is a welcoming idea. Eager for the day to continue, a decision is reached: one more stop is in order. It is a relatively lengthy drive to the labyrinthine town of Tagliacozzo. After meandering through the empty snow-strewn streets and being moved by the whitewashed cupolas of the town’s myriad churches, we start back down the steep laneways towards Piazza del Obelisco, the town’s grand medieval piazza, for dinner. The square,

framed by a bright cornucopia of shimmering lights in time for the festive season, is a playground for locals who line its smattering of restaurants. Our meal, enjoyed to the clattering sounds of the busy kitchen and the emphatic gesturing of enthusiastic locals, begins with a filling portion of gnocchi with chickpeas. Following this usual surplus of carbs is a welcoming plate of thick polenta. The meal is finished with warm patterned wafers filled with a glutinous mixture of berry jam and chocolate sauce, accompanied by a robust espresso. Back under the glimmering lights of the ancient square, I smile and am overcome by a sense of pride as the region beds down for the evening. In eclectic Abruzzo, the imposing snow-covered mountains create a stunning contrast with the rolling plains and endless Adriatic coastline. Covered in flowers and unique flora from April to October, they mercilessly give way to oodles of snow during the colder months and beckon to adventure seekers and skiing enthusiasts to create a truly unique and diverse experience. ❖


CORBIS

MUSIC

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Open Skies


There’s tonnes of musical talent in Papua New Guinea and it just needed somebody to bring it to the world’s attention. That’s finally happening with Raymond Chin’s studio.

Opposite page: The Huli war drum is just one of the many instruments that give Papua New Guinea’s music such a unique sound. Right: Some of Papua New Guinea’s most famous musicians recently played at Sydney’s famous HOME club. Apox (far right) sings in four languages and has a strong reggae influence.

I

t’s taken over 20 years of hard work, but the music studio CHM Supersound, established in the Papua New Guinea capital Port Moresby by music magnate Raymond Chin, is set to take the planet by storm. The world’s biggest producer of Melanesian music, with over 3,000 albums under its belt, recently signed major distribution deals with iTunes and leading international music retailers. And to see and hear these musicians performing live is a totally infectious experience. It may verge on a cliché, but Papua New Guinea (PNG) really is one of the world’s last frontiers. With some of the world’s most tortuous terrain, over 800 mutually unintelligible languages spoken, and with intertribal warfare still widespread, this country strikes the visitor as a nation only now entering the modern era – but nevertheless it is a quite extraordinary place. Its people are super alert and intelligent, and a warm welcome can be expected in even the most remote villages. To the uninitiated visitor to PNG the music scene comes as a surprise. Over 98 per cent of music is still made at grassroots level, and every corner and kerb in the major cities resounds to tuneful songs and the strum of guitars. It took the initiative of Raymond Chin, an accomplished musician in his own right, to form all this talent into a cohesive industry – starting with his first eight-track studio back in 1983. PNG music is raw, earthy and punchy. It comes right from the gut, and occasionally from the heart too. The instrumental line-ups are eclectic and sometimes astonishing – everything from slide guitar and tin drum to the most sophisticated saxophone playing you’ll ever hear. Reggae influences also come across strongly. But with so many distinct languages in the country, the task facing most PNG musicians is simply to communicate, and the best way for them to do so is in the common lingua franca Tok Pisin, or Pidgin. It was not until 2007 that smaller recording studios started to


MUSIC

proliferate within PNG. Now there are around 50 studios. “But many of these won’t last,” says Raymond Chin. “They don’t have the international markets to make them sustainable.” In an attempt to get on the marketing superhighway, a number of these smaller studios are now working with CHM under licence. In 2008, Chin set up his own radio station, Rait FM, broadcasting tracks not just from PNG but also from the neighbouring Solomon Islands, Vanuatu and Fiji. And this music is now also available to a worldwide audience. Listeners can tune in to Rait FM music live-streamed via the CHM website (chmsupersound.com). Music in PNG – at least until the advent of CHM Supersound – was very much a village-based business. Even now in 2010, most recorded music is still sold on cassettes, with CDs and MP3 players only widely available in the big cities. At the top end of the music marketing spectrum, CHM tracks are now available on iTunes, as a result of a deal signed in 2009. The music is also expected to soon be available on other digital platforms including Bigpond Music, 7digital (UK) and Amazon.com. A group of some of PNG’s best musicians performed in Sydney recently, as part of the Song Summit held under the auspices of APRA – the Australasian Performing Right Association. Among the performers were such diverse talents as DadiiGii (aka Armstrong P Gomara), Apox, Shane Amean of the band Cornerstone and multi-instrument maestro Warian Echoe. 46

Open Skies

On the night, the band gave a fine performance, all clad in their finest tribal costumes (which admittedly did look a little unusual in the swish surrounds of HOME, Australia’s biggest and arguably most sophisticated nightclub). Reviews of the band’s performance were universally thumbs-up. “That band could have gone on any music stage worldwide, and they would have just blown people away,” says Sebastian Chase, founder of MGM (Metropolitan Groove Merchants). Chase and MGM were instrumental in bringing the group’s music to a wider audience. “I went up to PNG with performing rights lawyer John Kenny about three years ago, and we were really impressed by what we were listening to there,” says Chase. “In the global market, all indigenous music needs to be promoted worldwide, but we realised that up till then not much of their music was known outside PNG. So we decided that the best strategy was to make use of the digital age and make up a digital catalogue of their music. The first step was to get the albums listed with iTunes, and the next step in the plan is to start bringing out physical copies and market the music internationally.” I caught up with the band, seeking some insights into their unique music. They were all eager to pass on their diverse stories. Accompanying the band were Raymond Chin, PR man Richard Francisco and the Honorable Timothy Bonga, Chairman of the Public Accounts Committee and Minister without

Above: Shane Amean taught himself to play guitar. His band, Cornerstone, is one of Papua New Guinea’s most successful musical exports. Top: Raymond Chin, owner of CHM Supersound, has been instrumental in bringing Melanesian music to the world.


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MUSIC

“Armstrong was just a street kid, surviving in Port Moresby, when I first spotted his talent,” says Chin. “He has since gone on to be one of our best-selling artists.”

Portfolio in the Papua New Guinea government. The first band member, Shane Amean, of the group Cornerstone, tells of how he got into playing music. “I was severely burnt in an accident when I was about nine years old,” he says, “and was bedridden for a couple of months. I had a cassette by Don Williams, and I played it over and over again. And that’s what led me to start playing guitar.” The rest is history. Cornerstone, with ring-ins Haoda Manega and Julius Kwarere, became one of the top groups to be recorded by CHM Supersound. Another member of the group performing in Sydney was Apox, from Papua New Guinea’s Manus Island. Rastafarian influences come across strongly in his first album, Fairy Tale, released in October 2009. On the album he sings in four languages: English, Tok Pisin, Oro and Manus (the dialect of Manus Island). His years spent in Hawaii (where he acquired a degree in international business management) and New Zealand also has a bearing on his music. The infectious beat of Left: Warian the album’s tracks does not hide its more serious focus, Echoe, a gifted saxophonist, namely some unique problems encountered in Papua has a music New Guinea. ‘Stop that killing’, for example, refers not degree from the University only to urban violence but also to the centuries-old of Papua New history of inter-tribal conflict. “Another problem is Guinea. He literacy,” says Apox. “Until that problem is fixed, it will honed his skills playing be difficult to get real communication happening.” in the police Another performer, Warian Echoe (aka John Ani) band before branching out. is one of the band’s most interesting and colourful characters. He graduated with a music degree from the University of Papua New Guinea, with a major in saxophone. After nearly 10 years of playing with the police band he decided to branch out and do what he enjoys most, namely multi-instrumental recording and playing. His music is a fusion of hip-hop, jazz and traditional Melanesian music – a totally unique and highly polished set of sounds. The fourth of the band’s members, DadiiGii, from Lae on the north coast of Papua New Guinea, is also an accomplished performer. The opening track on his first album has rich polyphonic vocals, followed by drum-backed rap interspersed with Middle Eastern riffs. Altogether extraordinary! “Armstrong was just a street kid, surviving in Port Moresby, when I first spotted his talent,” says Chin. “He has since gone on to be one of our best-selling artists.” DadiiGii’s two top albums have been Dayz of Ma Life and Welcome to My Life. “And his next album will be Get Out of my Life!,” laughs the Hon Mr Bonga, who had been sitting quietly, taking everything in. It’s common nowadays to talk about musical finds as ‘the next big thing on the horizon’ – but in the case of the music of Papua New Guinea, this description is more than just apt. There’s no doubt whatsoever that this music is set to make waves worldwide. ❖ WRITTEN BY GRAHAM SIMMONS

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Open Skies



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PROFILE

A DRIVING

F RCE A legendary sportsman with an unmatched record, Mohammed Bin Sulayem applies the same determination that brought him phenomenal success behind the wheel to being a global ambassador for motor sport in the Middle East. The great champion talks to Nick Rice about his life’s passion.

December 2010

51


s

is the case with most young boys, motorcars were a source of wonder that held magnetic appeal for the adolescent Mohammed Bin Sulayem.

But unlike most of his peers, Bin Sulayem would throughout his life pursue the experience of driving them at serious risk to his health – be it from highspeed collisions as a professional rally driver, or from getting caught sneaking off in the family car when he was barely able to see over the steering wheel. “As a boy I would take the car away in secret. Our driver would have a sleep in the afternoon and I would take the keys, release the handbrake and let the car roll away silently before starting the engine. Then I would just go and drive. Later I would bring it back and put it in exactly the same place, exactly where the tyres were before. Nobody knew,” he tells me, apparently still relieved he escaped any consequences. However, he wasn’t always so lucky. Aged 27, Bin Sulayem was competing at home in the 1988 Dubai Rally when he momentarily lost control of his car. The result was a broken neck. In a remarkable display of his iron will and unwavering perseverance, he won the race. After this feat a French TV network nominated him as the “Most courageous sportsman in the world.” As Bin Sulayem, now 48, guides me around his incredible collection of cars, it is impressively clear that great passion fuelled his amazing career. He is enthusiastic about them all and there is everything from classic Cadillacs to rare Ferraris. When I tell him about my own car, a humble 30-year-old original Mini, he bemoans the loss of his own classic Mini some years ago, such is his love for each and every model he has. As my tour continues he explains how he’s modified some, which ones he’s won championships in and which ones he lent to Rod Stewart. “Rod called me up and asked about one of the Ferraris… but he wouldn’t drive it at first. I said ‘Listen Rod... there are 300 cars at least, but there’s only one Rod Stewart... drive it, please.’” Bin Sulayem is the perfect host, making a guest feel at ease and comfortable, yet at the same time spoiled. He is animated and infectious with humour and gleeful sarcasm, yet he can turn to deeper, more measured thoughts in a moment. He has a vast 52

Open Skies


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PHOTOS ON THIS PAGE: REUTERS

SPORT

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Open Skies

REX FEATURE

amount of awards and accomplishments and when I ask him of which he is most proud, he considers carefully and with humility tells me about his award from one of the world’s largest press organisations, the Agence France-Presse (AFP). “AFP gave me the sportsman of the century award. That’s the most valuable to me. It wasn’t just for motor sport, it was for any sport. You know many countries didn’t have any sportsmen to be candidates, people who met the criteria and were qualified, but here in the UAE, they gave this to me, in December 1999. And that was a shock to me. It’s for my children and I’m still very proud of it. You know it’s not just your country recognising you, or a newspaper... it’s AFP.” His awards are credit where credit is due when you consider what Bin Sulayem has accomplished. He has an unsurpassed record of achievement in motor sport, amassing 61 international rally wins across the 17 years in which he utterly dominated the sport. Bin Sulayem’s premier event has been the FIA (motor sport’s world governing body) Middle East Rally Championship. Since entering for the first time in 1986, he has racked up an incredible 14 victories. On only three occasions between 1986 and Bin Sulayem’s last entry in 2002, has anyone else won the title. And on those occasions, Sulayem hadn’t entered. He remains undefeated. It’s an act of staggering determination to see off

Top left: Bin Sulayem in his Ford Fox rally car at the Mount Lebanon rally. The accomplished UAE driver won 61 international rallies during his 17 year career.

all opponents and refuse to lose. When I mention the great tennis player Jimmy Connor’s famous saying, “I love to win, but I hate losing more,” Bin Sulayem lights up in agreement. “That’s it... I couldn’t face all the people asking me ‘what happened?’ so I had to win.” Casually talking about his stellar career, Bin Sulayem reveals an amusing duality of confidence and self-assurance playing with a self-effacing and humble nature. “As you can see, I don’t keep my trophies on show,” he tells me, gesturing with his arms around the comfortable cushion-filled room where we chat. “That is a habit. Because I always believe that if I see them, I will think that I’m the best. So I keep them all in storage, so that I want more,” he laughs. But despite the amusing modesty and his relaxed manner, there must have been years of intense work and commitment. “Once you love what you do, you just keep on going. When people asked me, ‘how do you keep winning, what’s the secret of winning?’ I said ‘guys, when you were at the bar or in the hotel or

Above: Since an early age, Bin Sulayem has had cars in his blood and he owns a huge collection. Here he is pictured with a Mercedes Benz SLS AMG at the Dubai Motor Show. Left: Jean Todt, the former Ferrari team principle, was elected president of the FIA last year. Bin Sulayem is the vice president of the FIA for Sport.



SPORT

wherever... I was practicing.’ It’s just hard work, really hard work. Being physically fit, mentally fit, communicating with your team. Understanding your car, the testing and development of the car... reading the road and knowing your opponents. Calculation!” The great champion may not have competed since 2002 but he has always invested the same kind of determination that brought him unmatched success behind the wheel into being an ambassador for motor sports in the Middle East. In 1991 Bin Sulayem devised the idea of a desert event and founded the UAE Desert Challenge. In just two years it became one of the rounds in the FIA World Cup. The race traverses the barren expanse known as The Empty Quarter – a desolate and alluring region made famous by Wilfred Thesiger, the British explorer who crossed the region in the 1940s and 50s. The entrants tackle the formidable terrain under immense heat as they make their way across meandering Bedouin trails and over daunting, giant sand dunes. Last year the event was re-branded and it is now the Abu Dhabi Desert Challenge, with Bin Sulayem acting as Chairman of the Organising Committee. “The event has used the deserts of the Abu Dhabi emirate for many years, but the start and finish will now also take place in the UAE capital. The move to Abu

Dhabi is a natural progression as the event rises in stature and continues to grow,” he explained. The Desert Challenge is managed by the Automobile and Touring Club of the UAE (ATCUAE), of which Bin Sulayem is also the president. Since taking the position in 2006, Bin Sulayem has made a huge difference, fostering massive growth in the sport. Before 2006 only 90 people in the UAE had official licences to compete in motor sport and there were only 20 events per year. Today, ATCUAE has more than 1,200 licensed competitors and they organise a calendar of 140 motor sport events. In November 2008 Bin Sulayem’s influence and dedication to motor sport was recognised and rewarded when he became the first Arab to be elected onto the FIA World Motor Sport Council – the most powerful body in world motor sport – and was also named Vice President of the FIA for Sport. The dual honours were announced by FIA president Max Mosley at the FIA General Assembly in Paris. Bin Sulayem accepted the awards and said: “I’m honoured and very happy to have been elected to the FIA World Motor Sport Council” and later added, “I’m looking forward to playing my part in

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CORBIS

“It’s just hard work, really hard work. Being physically fit, mentally fit, communicating with your team. Understanding your car, the testing and development of the car... reading the road and knowing your opponents. Calculation!”

Bottom left: Bin Sulayem with Max Mosley, the former president of the FIA, at the start of the Jordan Rally. In 2008, Bin Sulayem became the first Arab to be elected to the FIA World Motor Sport Council. Below: Last year the first Grand Prix was held in Abu Dhabi, a regional milestone that Bin Sulayem was involved with. Here he is pictured racing his Renault F1 car in the Dubai desert.


shaping the future of motor sport, and there are some exciting, and challenging, times ahead.” Not least of these challenges has been the creation and development of the Etihad Airways Abu Dhabi Grand Prix, for which Bin Sulayem sits on the Advisory Board. The inaugural event took place from October 30 to November 1 2009, and was hailed as an outstanding success. The event drew maximum crowds and superstar performers such as Beyonce, Kings of Leon and Aerosmith. The real star of the event, however, was the track itself – the futuristic Yas Marina circuit. Formula One head honcho Bernie Ecclestone called the construction of the track a ‘‘miracle come true’’. The 5.5 kilometre circuit passes through a spaceage hotel and a trackside marina allows for yachts to dock right by the action. ‘‘I am overwhelmed and I think everybody felt the same when they saw this,’’ Ecclestone said at the time. Bin Sulayem echoed these sentiments and is enthusiastic about the future of motor sport in the Middle East, saying: “It has been a good challenge, the start of something for the future. I believe that Abu Dhabi is well placed to become the motor sport capital of Asia, not just of the Middle East. As an Emirati motor sport professional, I can think of nothing that would make me more proud than to see my capital recognised as a world capital in motor sport.” With Bin Sulayem’s continued patronage, the vision could easily become a reality. The second Abu Dhabi Grand Prix begins on November 14 and people are already talking about it. As the sport continues to grow here, Bin Sulayem’s invaluable participation will mean he is kept very busy. And yet along with his many motor sport commitments, Bin Sulayem frequently gives his time and support to a list of charities, resulting in a constantly packed schedule. A natural philanthropist, when watchmaker TAG Heuer added Bin Sulayem to its prestigious array of brand ambassadors, he donated the entire proceeds of the deal to the international charity organisation, Save the Children. With so many demands on his time, I conclude our meeting by asking what he does, when he gets the chance, to relax? It was no surprise to hear his passion come to the fore once again. “I drive. I just go to the desert and drive, nearly every single night. I find it meditative. I take one of my cars, maybe an old classic car, and I drive with some old music on. Drive for an hour. Then I come back and I can sleep. I’m very lucky that I only have to do this to relax.” ❖



TRAVEL

Machu Picchu Pe r u

il

UNIQUE AND UNUSUAL

Ra

Sacred Valley

Cusco

TRAIN RIDES

Robert Louis Stevenson said, “I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move.” Robin McKelvie agrees wholeheartedly and likes to take the train.

The West Highland Line runs through some of Scotland’s wildest landscapes and crosses the spectacular Horseshoe Viaduct.

December 2010

ILLUSTRATIONS: MICHELLE LIU

S

ome cynics claim that the great days of rail are over, but train lovers know this is definitely not the case. In fact there have never been a wider range of rail journeys on offer around the globe that are unusual, idiosyncratic or just plain bizarre, offering genuinely unique travel experiences where you can, in Stevenson’s famous words, travel for travel’s sake. They don’t come much more unusual than the train up to the ancient Inca hideaway of Machu Picchu in Peru. This takes passengers up to a height of over 2,000 metres. Coca Tea and Inca Kola (a sickly sweet bright yellow soft drink) are served to help people cope with the altitude. The line is an engineering marvel that climbs a narrow gorge as it

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TRAVEL

ekes up through the mountains on a two hour trip, which would take four days to cover on the famous Inca Trail walk. Elsewhere in Peru is an even more remarkable high altitude service from Lima to Huancayo in the Mantaro Valley. It takes in a remarkable 69 tunnels, 58 bridges and six switchbacks. It also rushes through the Galera Tunnel, which sits at a literally breathtaking altitude of nigh on five kilometres high, making it the highest railway tunnel in the world. This scenic 535 kilometre trip starts at sea level in Lima but spends much of its time climbing,

es s

Above: The Eastern and Oriental Express is a luxury train that travels through South East Asia. One of its most poignant stops is on the ‘Bridge Over the River Kwai’, which serves as a silent memorial to the Allied prisoners of war that built it.

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ste The Ea

rn

a

r xp E l t n a e i n d Or

with passengers having to cope with a rise of 4,782 metres in the space of 11 hours, as it gouges its way up in search of the snow covered Andes peaks. Across the other side of the Pacific awaits a train that itself connects two great oceans in Australia. The Indian Pacific links its two eponymous oceans and its construction was truly bizarre. For years passengers wanting to get from Sydney on the Pacific to Perth on the Indian Ocean 4,352 kilometres away had to keep changing trains, as the various bickering Australian states had built their own railways on various gauges that were not compatible. The first Indian Pacific through service finally ran in 1970. The gauges may have been sorted out, but this desert explorer still boasts one truly unique feature – the longest stretch of straight track in the world. The arrow straight ribbon of steel that pushes out across the otherworldly Nullabor Plain is a staggering 478 kilometres long and takes over four hours to negotiate. The view can be hypnotic as you persist across an unchanging landscape with no curves or deviations to interrupt the engine’s unrelenting progress. North of Australia in Thailand is the infamous ‘Death Railway’ from Bangkok out towards the Burmese border. Instigated by the Japanese during World War II it was forged through the wild and demanding jungle by Allied prisoners of war and an army of locals. They had no choice but to build it and many paid the ultimate price for their labours. It remains a testament to their memory now, a remarkable piece of engineering and surely the most poignant stretch of railway in the world. Local services leave from Bangkok that cover the whole route out to Nam Tok. There is also a luxury service, the Eastern & Oriental Express, which is run by the people behind the Orient Express. The most dramatic section is the notorious ‘Bridge Over the River Kwai’ which is the very symbol of the line and the struggle to build it. Many tourists return after just crossing the bridge, but those staying on get to experience the drama of a line that goes on through ever deeper jungle across a series of rickety looking bridges. Further north in China a totally different experience awaits in the form of the world’s fastest train. The Maglev, from Shanghai’s Pudong Airport into the city,


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TRAVEL

Above: The Trans-Siberian, the world’s longest train journey, follows a number of different routes but all of them end in Vladivostok.

zooms along at a breathtaking 431 kilometres per hour making it easily the speediest service on the planet. Similar projects in Europe have run into technical issues so for the foreseeable future the Chinese Maglev looks set to remain the world’s fastest train. There is no doubting the world’s longest train trip that is the truly epic Trans-Siberian. Rail purists may insist that the ‘real’ Trans-Siberian is the one that runs from Moscow out to Vladivostok within Russia, but in reality the name these days is also applied to its siblings, which head across much of the same route from Europe to Asia across the Urals and across Siberia, but then end in Beijing via northern China (the Trans Manchurian) or the Mongolian capital Ulan Bator (the Trans Mongolian). Veteran train traveller and writer Eric Newby simply called the Trans-Siberian ‘The Big One’ and it is utterly incomparable. She traverses over 9,000 kilometres and crosses multiple time zones. Surreally, the time onboard does not alter with the time zones and stays on Moscow time, though the time at intermediate stations changes, which can cause

Th e

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Trans-Siberia

n

St Petersburg

Moscow

a lot of confusion. Travellers not literally moving with the times as it were, can find themselves being ‘trainlagged’ as they arrive in Beijing and adjust their watches by seven hours. Europe is the real home of the railways and more specifically Britain, where the Scot, George Stephenson, is the man credited with their invention. Rail travel in Britain has come a long way since the days when startled travellers such as Queen Victoria were horrified at being hurtled along at speeds approaching 15 kilometres per hour! One of the world’s most unusual railway journeys still runs through Scotland in Britain’s wild northern extremities. The West Highland Line is a one off 264-kilometre track that slips out of Scotland’s biggest city, Glasgow, in search of the rugged Highlands and the deserted white sand Atlantic beaches of the west. It is a line totally dominated by the landscape, which forces it to constantly innovate, twist and turn, rise and fall to negotiate with the terrain rather than dominate it with just brutal engineering.

Beijing Ulaanbaatar


The simplest pleasures

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can become the sweetest memories.

Contact your travel consultant or visit our website: www.fourseasons.com


TRAVEL

Above: The Peru Rail journey to the famous Inca ruin of Machu Picchu reaches a height of more than 2,000 metres.

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One of the most spectacular stretches of the West Highland Line is the Horseshoe Viaduct that spectacularly straddles two voluminous mountains. Then there is the staggering 21 arch Glenfinnan Viaduct that vaults the train around Glen Finnan, one of the most picturesque glens in the land. This viaduct starred in a recent Harry Potter movie when the Hogwart’s Express puffed its way over. Perhaps the most bizarre and challenging section for the engineers was the stretch across bleak, inhospitable Rannoch Moor. The engineers could not dig solid foundations through the deep and saturated peat bog and instead the tracks just miraculously ‘float’ across the water, something you might not want to consider too much when the heavy bulk of the train is gingerly crossing Rannoch Moor. It would be impossible not to mention the ‘Train of Kings’ in the list. The Orient Express is surely the world’s most famous train and perhaps what extenuates and cements her reputation is that she is no manufactured modern re-imagining of the classic train. She is the real deal. And what a deal she is. On October 4, 1883, the first Orient Express rolled out of Paris bound for the Danube, where she connected with an Istanbul bound steamer. Services were cut by the outbreak of World War I, but the Orient Express was to play a symbolic role in the

peace as one of the Wagon-Lits carriages was the venue for the signing of the Armistice near Versailles. Adolf Hitler never forgot this humiliating moment and when France capitulated in World War II he dragged the French back to the same railway carriage at the same siding to sign their surrender. At this lowest point in the Orient Express’ history along came its saviour, an American entrepreneur called James Sherwood. At a Monte Carlo auction in 1977 he snapped up two of the old sleeper coaches. Over the next few years Sherwood ceaselessly scoured Europe searching out the old Wagon-Lits in forgotten train yards and disused sidings, then began a multimillion pound renovation programme to bring them back to their former opulence. Today the Orient Express is still a one off. Her gleaming rich blue and gold livery flashes across the modern map of Europe harking back to the era when travel meant much more than just a means of getting somewhere. Like all unique trains she has her wonderful quirks – guests may pay top dollar to get onboard, but as she is the original there are no showers to freshen up in before dinner. No one seems to mind as a wave of fine dining heralds in some of Europe’s best scenery on perhaps the world’s most famous and defiantly unique train. That great fan of the railways Robert Louis Stevenson would have loved her. ❖

FACTBOX PERU RAIL (perurail.com) run most of Peru’s trains, including a variety of services on the Machu Picchu line, including the luxurious Hiram Bingham. INDIAN PACIFIC – gsr.com.au THE EASTERN & ORIENT EXPRESS (orient-express. com) offer luxurious rail safari trips that include a trip on the railway from Bangkok to Nam Tok. Regular local services also run on the line. MAGLEV – smtdc.com TRANS SIBERIAN – Russian Railways (eng.rzd.ru). GW Travel (gwtravel.co.uk) offer private luxury ‘Golden Eagle’ Trans Siberian trips. WEST HIGHLAND LINE – Scotrail (scotrail.co.uk) run regular passenger services. The Jacobite steam train (westcoastrailways.co.uk) runs between Fort William and the West Highland Line terminus at Mallaig. The Royal Scotsman (royalscotsman.com) offer trips on the line as part of their Scottish rail safaris. ORIENT EXPRESS – Orient Express (orientexpress. com) run trips from London out to Venice with an annual foray on the original route to Istanbul. There’s also many other routings.


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PROFILE

IT IS NOT ONLY CHINESE FIRMS THAT EMBRACE FENG SHUI. HSBC, CITIBANK, AND CABLE TV HAVE ALL USED ITS PRINCIPLES. AND WHEN YOU NEED A

FENG SHUI MASTER RAYMOND LO IS ONE OF ITS MOST RESPECTED PRACTITIONERS.

TEXT: RICHARD WARREN

L

ife is full of choices. So when you get home or arrive at your hotel or office you may want to make sure you don’t read this article with your back to the door or window. To do so can be bad for your health and wealth. Sit with your back to the wall. This is the advice of Raymond Lo, one of the world’s foremost Feng Shui masters. Feng Shui, translated as ‘wind water’, is all about making the best use of unseen ‘water’ and ‘mountain’ energies, known as chi, in the places where we live and work. If you want plenty of activity, especially money making activity, get close to water energy. If you want reflective calm, somewhere quiet to read a highly informative magazine article that could change your life, place yourself in the mountain area. “It is bad luck to sit with your back to the door in

an office,” says Lo. “Psychologically it does not even feel comfortable. If your back is to the door you cannot see who is coming in, so you do not feel very secure and stable. To have your back against the window is also not good, because outside the window is the street, and the street is water (energy). The back against a wall is better, because the wall is a solid support from behind.” An ancient Chinese science applied to architecture and interior design, Feng Shui aims to improve people’s well-being. To create the perfect Feng Shui building, whether domestic or commercial, a practitioner is involved at the initial architectural design stage, helping to decide on many things from positioning the front door to how many storeys are built. At existing buildings, a Feng Shui master is called in to advise on what a room is used for, its

December 2010

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layout and even the decorative colour scheme. Some 4,700 years after it was conceived Feng Shui became a worldwide craze in the 1990s and is enjoying another resurgence now. Through his books, articles and international TV appearances Grand Master Lo has become a leading figure in the Feng Shui world. Also known as ‘Feng Shui Lo’ he runs the School of Feng Shui and Destiny in his home city of Hong Kong, and spends much of the year travelling, conducting workshops and addressing conferences, including the World Economic Forum at Davos, Switzerland, the yearly gathering of the global business and political elite. “Ten years ago Feng Shui suddenly came up like a fashion,” he says. “In the western world I was amazed to see people produce Feng Shui toilet paper, but that kind of thing has died down. It is superficial. People are getting more serious about it now, they want to go deeper and know more about the logic of the subject, which is a healthier approach. “In the modern world, you get more questions than answers. In science there are more and more mysteries, like quantum mechanics, so people are looking for answers.” Feng Shui terminology may sound fanciful with references to dragons and other mysterious sounding concepts, but Lo says its analysis of the world is logical. “Feng Shui is a science of the environment,” he says. “In the environment there are different kinds of energy, some are superficial and some will cause harm. Our job is to make the best use of the good ones and minimise the influence of the bad energy.” A parallel can be drawn with another ancient Chinese practice, acupuncture, where needles are inserted in the patient’s body to activate our own unseen energy lines to promote healing. “Of course we cannot prove it with modern techniques,” says Lo. “This does not mean Feng Shui is wrong. It is only that modern science cannot reach the standard to prove it yet.” When asked to improve the chi balance in a home or office, Lo uses a Feng Shui compass to work out which energy lines pass in and around it, and he finds out the age of the building, another factor influencing its energy type. With this information he creates a horoscope for the building, the basis for deciding what goes where. “Our purpose is to make sure you put your important functions in the good energy area, so your living room which is good for prosperity should be

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CORBIS

PROFILE

Above: Raymond Lo with a Feng Shui compass, which is used to work out the energy lines that pass through or around a building.

located in the prosperous area,” he says. “Your back room has mountain energy which supports your health and harmony so we prefer you sleep there.” To encourage greater prosperity, objects can be placed in the active, ‘water’ energy areas. “We recommend you put in fish tanks or a moving clock, so they stimulate even more activity in that area of prosperous energy,” he says, adding “The main problem is that people put functions in the wrong place. For example, they sleep in an area which is active, so they lose their health support, they lose sleep, they become restless and, at the same time,


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CORBIS

lose money, because they are sleeping on their money energy.” Sometimes it is not possible to change a room function in a home, so Lo prefers to work on offices. “Offices have a lot of flexibility,” he says, “you can decide where the boss sits, you can decide which area is for the conference room, which area is for marketing people, so you have a more free hand. But apartments today are usually fixed or too small, so there is only one place where you can put your bed.” Hong Kong is the Feng Shui capital of the world and not only because it is widely practised there. Combined, Hong Kong Island, Kowloon and Victoria Harbour have the best Feng Shui of any city on Earth says Lo. “It is about the energy of the dragon coming from the mountains of China,” he explains. “The mountains go thousands of miles and they stop in Hong Kong, so where the dragon stops you find the energy.” This energy is protected by the mountains of Hong Kong. These mountains also happen to protect shipping in the harbour from typhoons, making it an ideal spot to develop a port city. Many homes, offices and hotels in Hong Kong are designed according to Feng Shui principles and it influences town planning. For example, in Central, the heart of Hong Kong’s business district, no high rise buildings are allowed on the piece of land between the Asia headquarters of HSBC bank and the harbour, so the water energy from the harbour can flow unimpeded into the building and make

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its occupants prosperous. When it comes to architecture, Lo says The Peninsula Hotel on the Kowloon waterfront is Hong Kong’s best example of Feng Shui design. With a building layout that ensures it is set back from a noisy, busy street, the hotel is a landmark and hugely successful. “The Peninsula Hong Kong is built with two stretching arms to preserve the energy in front of the building,” says Lo. “In Feng Shui an active water fountain has the function of stimulating money energy when placed in a

Above: This building in Hong Kong’s Repulse Bay has a special Feng Shui ‘hole’ to let energy through. Top: The InterContinental Hong Kong is built according to Feng Shui principles. The large windows allow energy to flow freely.


Above: The Peninsula Hotel’s two wings preserve energy in front of the building while the fountain stimulates money energy.

prosperous location. The Peninsula has a large fountain located in front of the hotel, which was originally designed for such a purpose.” Further along the Kowloon waterfront, the InterContinental Hotel gets a thumbs up, because Feng Shui was integrated into its design. The hotel is built at the spot where the dragon comes down to bathe – the lobby’s floor-to-ceiling glass windows ensure the dragon’s trips to the waterfront are unimpeded. The windows also ensure the lobby is a light, airy space with an impressive vista of Hong Kong Island. Feng Shui is one of three factors affecting the course of our lives Lo says. Destiny, your inborn quality, is the most important and decided by your birth date. Luck, the second, is not random but influenced by your birth date. Feng Shui, the only factor that can be altered, accounts for about 50 per cent of how your life works out. If you fancy having a Feng Shui consultant help you make the most of the chi in your life, test he has the right skills by asking him to read your fortune first, advises Lo. “Good Feng Shui masters are good at fortune analysis, so if he can tell your past correctly he has skill,” he says. Now that is a good test. ❖



CULTURE

FeStiv e H igh

GUJARAT’S INTERNATIONAL KITE FESTIVAL IS THE STATE’S BIGGEST FESTIVITY WITH REVELLERS POURING IN FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD TO SHOW OFF THEIR KITE MAKING AND FLYING SKILLS, REPORTS NIKITA MEHTA.

A

hmedabad’s riverfront, in the Indian state of Gujarat, is a bit chilly at the break of dawn on a January morning. There’s still a touch of winter fog over the Sabarmati’s waters and the cool breeze dances with sparkling orange light as the sun rises. Normally, this is the time when homes around the city start waking up with mothers cajoling their kids to get dressed for school and office workers readying themselves for the day ahead. It’s a morning routine that runs uninterrupted through most of the year – except for five days in the middle of January. These days are reserved for a centuries-old tradition that marks the high point of Gujarat’s annual cycle of rites, rituals and festivities. At the break of dawn on and around January 14th sheets of vividly coloured paper compete with the rising sun, their shapes and identities a bit hazy through the soft morning light. These innocuous bits of bamboo and paper are the forerunners of millions of fluttering kites that will blanket the horizon as the morning progresses, soaring more than 30 metres above ground, launched from streets, gardens and rooftops. They display every shape, colour and pattern, turning the sky into a cheerful battlefield as

the combatants swoop, soar and intermingle against a backdrop of piercing whistles, festive songs and hearty cries of ‘kaipiyo chh’ (the kite has been cut), ‘khench’ (pull the string), ‘dheel chhor’ (loosen the string) and ‘gayo’ (the string has been cut and the kite’s gone down). There’s a perfectly reasonable explanation for Gujarat’s kite frenzy. The kites are reaching for the sun and Uttarayan (also known as Makar Sakranti) is considered one of the most auspicious days of the year. It marks the sun’s transition from Dhanu rashi (Sagittarius) to Makara rashi (Capricorn), heralding a new harvest season and the start of a New Year for this part of the Indian subcontinent. On a more practical level Uttarayan heralds the end of winter. As the days become longer it creates a steady breeze perfect for kites. And that’s why Uttarayan anchors one of the world’s most riveting festivals with more than three million kites of all shapes and sizes taking to the skies with both experts and novices from across the globe pulling the strings. Rhythmic drums, boisterous neighbourhood contests and a party atmosphere give the event a fair-like atmosphere that draws millions December 2010

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of Indian and international tourists. Patangotsav (The International Kite Festival) has been organised by Gujarat Tourism since 1989. It runs for five days and is centred in Ahmedabad, although Surat and Porbandar also served as venues in 2010. In past years, master kite makers from Malaysia have brought their waubalang kites, llayang-llayanghave from Indonesia, while USA kite innovators have arrived with mammoth banner kites. Japanese rokkaku fighting kites also share the skies with Chinese flying dragons, Italian sculptural kites and the latest hitech wonders. The festival features an international kite competition, aerial acrobatics, kite painting competitions and kite workshops. Traditionally, flyers score points by bashing into rival kites and wrapping their string around their victim to bring it down. The combatants use a special maanjha (thread), which is coated with a mixture of glue and powdered glass and is wrapped onto charkhas (wooden spools). The kite festival is a mega draw for tourists and provides a massive boost to the local cottage industry. Gujaratis are famed in India for their business acumen and reverence for culture and traditions. With around 121,000 fairs and festivals 76

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GETTY IMAGES

CULTURE

celebrated annually, it is typical of Gujarat to mix business with pleasure. Every year millions of kites are built and sold, with the town of Cambay producing 15 million alone. There are creations that depict Gujarat’s vibrant mythology with intricate block print or mirror-work effects, while others take the form of deities or celebrities (Shahrukh Khan and Sachin Tendulkar are perpetual favourites). Soaring birds, exotic fruit, animals (oversized frogs, owls, eagles and butterflies rule the roost), ghosts, dragons, tribal paintings, biplanes, cartoon characters… the kite maker’s arsenal has no limits. The experts who create airborne spectacles with multiple kites on one string rule the sky. Ahmedabad’s Rasulbhai Rahimbhai flies up to 500 kites on a single string and is a sight to watch out for, as are the creative storytellers who can depict the entire Raas Leela (the love story of Radha and Krishna) in a colourful sequence of hundreds of kites threaded together as a flying folk tale. At night the action continues as the legendary tukkals – illuminated box kites that are launched in

Top left: Gujarat’s International Kite Festival is a major boon to the local cottage industry. The kites are handmade and the strings covered with glue and powdered glass so they can cut their opponents’ strings. Top right: The festival is truly international and a cultural showcase. In this case a Japanese rokkaku kite displays Sri Lankan art work. Above: Animals are another favourite motif, in this case an elephant-sized kite that takes a team to handle it.


GETTY IMAGES LONELY PLANET

Top: Traditional dance, food, music and Bollywood form an integral part of the Gujarat kite festival. Left: Japanese rokkaku fighting kites traditionally feature a face, in this case the classic Samurai one.

a series strung on one line – are launched. Tukkals are traditionally lit by placing specially made lanterns inside the kite. The progress of technology, however, means that halogen bulbs and LEDs are taking over. Gujarat starts gearing up for the festival in November, with pop-up shops dotting streets across the state. The Patang Bazaar (kite market), situated in the heart of Ahmedabad, is open 24-hours-a-day during the Uttarayan week and a visit in the middle of the night proves that the entire city is obsessed with kites. When the festival begins, millions of eager eyes are glued to binoculars as the kites soar, while ‘kite runners’ whoop in merriment and dash around capturing the spoils as the bamboo-andpaper victims hurtle from the skies after being cut down by the victor. But for millions of people competition isn’t even the point. For 300 years this has been a day when all Gujaratis take to the sky. It’s a passion that dates back to the days of the Mughals, who found the sport both entertaining and a way to show off. The zeal continues today as it’s a great way to bond with family and friends. ❖



MAP ILLUSTRATION: TARAK PAREKH

CUISINE

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CUISINE

Clockwise from above: A moment of calm before the diners arrive at A’jia; A night view of Galata bridge and its numerous restaurants, with Yeni mosque in the background; The House Cafe in the trendy Gumussuyu district.

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quay itself. She hoped that was acceptable? I said I could think of nothing nicer. It was a hot, heavy evening. We ordered the mezze platter, which came with hummus, pastirma, borek (small fried dumplings filled with cheese and herbs), babaganoush (a smoky aubergine puree), courgette strips wrapped around rice, bean salad and chunks of a firm oily fish. This is the Turkish equivalent of tapas. Normally it comes in bowls placed centrally for all to share, but at A’jia each diner has a tray with little individual dishes. I missed the largesse normally associated with mezze but had to admit it looked stylish. As we ate on our secluded section of the quay, packed and noisy dining boats passed up and down the Bosphorus. We also watched as container ships headed south from the Black Sea (the Bospshorus operates a one-way system depending on the flow of the channel). The rest of A’jia’s menu was not really

Turkish, let alone New Turkish. Italian-style dishes like carpaccio and pasta plus Asian specialities like Beijing Duck were listed alongside a handful of Turkish-style grills. Asian seasonings – ginger, sesame and lemon grass – were everywhere. A’jia scores top marks for location but it resembles a number of affluent restaurants in Istanbul these days – a lot of young Turkish chefs offering essentially international fare rather than New Turkish cuisine. We’d have to look further afield. There was a huge thunderstorm that night with winds that blew a dozen chairs into the Bosphorus never to be seen again. The following evening the water was calm enough for us to take the hotel’s launch to the European shore and then get a taxi to Suada. A small boat was transferring diners at fiveminute intervals from the roadside. The atmosphere as we disembarked was one of excitement, very different from the calm seclusion of A’jia.


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Suada is home to a number of restaurants. Our choice, 360 Suada, has an unobstructed view of the Bosphorus Bridge decorated with lights that change colour continually during the night. Mike Norman, the chef, is one of those credited with pioneering New Turkish cuisine. A cheerful young hostess with bright orange hair told us Mike was busy at the moment and presented us with menus. 360’s a la carte selection is wide but we chose the set menu, which offered a mixed mezze of aubergine and shrimp tian, octopus carpaccio, grilled seafood calamari, feta cheese and crisp whitebait. To follow my wife had the Society Shish Kebab ‘summer remix’ – two kebabs, beef fillet shish and spiced minced shish, garnished with an aubergine puree and wild thyme salad. I ordered fillet of dorade in vine leaves with a shrimp tomato rice. To finish I had the wasabi ice-cream, which sounded intriguing. I couldn’t believe it would actually be wasabi flavoured but indeed it was, a curious experience that I’d try again – but not too often. Mike joined us later and took me through the dishes. “The tian is based on a classic Turkish dish known as Imam Bayaldi – the Imam Fainted – but we added shrimp. With the calamari we stuffed it with smoked Circassian cheese, which is rarely cooked in Turkey. It’s usually eaten as an appetizer. As for whitebait, because of its simplicity, it’s found more in low-end fish restaurants, but we’ve accompanied it by a fish roe sauce which is a variation on tarama, that’s a Turkish mezze dish with a mix of eggs, bread and garlic.” It was clear that Mike was nudging Ottoman cuisine towards the eastern Mediterranean, varying the ingredients rather than rewriting the rules. He’s 82

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Above (l-r): Assorted mezze on a platter; The scene is set ready for arrivals at 360 Suada. Below: Fresh fish sandwiches being made on the waterfront of Eminonu.



CUISINE

Top: A typically thriving night at Topaz. Bottom left: Ekmek Kadayifi with Afyon’s famous clotted cream. Bottom right: Topaz’s master sommelier Alain Würsching in action.

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also varying traditional techniques. “Fish is generally never stuffed here but the leaf flavour penetrates the dorade, turning it into a successful fusion. Interestingly though, the Turks never eat the leaves, just the fish – but foreigners clean it all up!” The next day we went for lunch at Topaz in the Istanbul suburb of Gümüssuyu. The view was a stunning panorama overlooking the baroque Dolmabahçe mosque and palace (home of the last Ottoman sultan) and of course the silver water of the Bosphorus beyond. Our host was Yucel Ozalp, who also owns a restaurant down on the European shore. Topaz’s chef, Tevfik Alparslan, has created two Ottoman degustación menus for the restaurant, one wholly traditional and the other a modern take on Ottoman dishes. “Smoked eggplant is part of the starter culture in Turkey,” said Yucel. “I wouldn’t change that. We have a rich cheese culture too and certainly no one would want to disturb the culture of the doner kebab! But we use modern techniques, making traditional dishes lighter.”

The food certainly was innovative. The cherry soup had a raki foam – another first for me – and the grilled Black Sea mullet was presented with a European salad of fresh onions and dill. Best of all was a goose liver crème brûlée, one of the most intensely flavoured dishes I’ve ever eaten. It was a good job Yucel warned me it was coming up as it looked just like an ordinary dessert in its ramikin. As we watched the local ferries nip between the great Black Sea tankers, plying their trade between two continents, Yucel told us how one of these monster container ships had crashed into his other restaurant, taking out the windows and wrecking the first few rows of tables. “Fortunately we weren’t open. The captain reversed and made for the Sea of Marmara but my manager had caught the whole thing on CCTV so he was tracked down!” It seems there are plenty of surprises awaiting diners along the Bosphorus, even when the shipping keeps to its lanes. ❖



48hours

LOS ANGELES There’s more to L.A. than plastic fantastic and Hollywood glitz. Dig beneath the surface and there’s a city with plenty of soul, reports Luciano Di Gregorio. WHY GO? Its long-standing reputation as New York’s pretentiously plastic cousin has done little to stop the throngs of tourists keen to take in the spectacle that is life in the City of Angels. And that is because the assessment holds little truth. With sprawling beaches and better weather than the Big Apple or nearby San Francisco, crowds descend on the city all year round in the hope of being infected with Los Angeles’ revered verve and zest for life. Dig beneath the glitz and glamour of its manicured streets and myriad of cosmetic surgery suites to find a culturally charged collection of little cities within a massive urban sprawl of creativity, artistic ingenuity and social progressiveness. WHAT TO DO Hiring a car in Los Angeles is a must. It is, in some respects, also a condemnation. The traffic is often abominable, but exploring the city any other way is nigh on impossible. Begin your day with a famous pastry at Bricks and Scones on North Larchmont Boulevard before heading west to Santa Monica. Most people experience an odd sense of déjà vu on their first visit: they have no doubt seen countless images of the famous Santa Monica pier in Hollywood blockbusters and classic film noir. Take a leisurely stroll up the pier and try your hand at a game or two before taking a ride on the Ferris wheel for sweeping views of Santa Monica. The beach will soon beckon, particularly in the hot weather. Soak in the sun and frigid waters of the Pacific before brushing off the sand and walking back to civilisation, admiring the million dollar homes along the way. It’s time to splurge on nearby 3rd Street Promenade. With just about every fashion label known to man, your wallet will take a battering. It’s worth it. Let yourself go in the boutiques and knick-knack stores before taking the top off that convertible and cruising north past UCLA, one of America’s most important educational institutions, and over to the Getty Centre. Opened in 1997, the Getty Centre is a 86

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hub of cultural delights with an extensive collection of Western art spanning centuries. The building, set in comely gardens and offering spanning vistas, is an attraction in its own right. However, one famous Los Angeles icon you won’t see from here is the gleaming white Hollywood sign, built in the 1920s. To catch a glimpse, drive west through the suburbs in and around Hollywood Reservoir for the best views of this revered symbol of Los Angeles culture. Glitz and glamour takes on a new meaning at the Hollywood Walk of Fame on nearby Hollywood Boulevard, particularly if you’re lucky enough to be in town when a film mogul is having their name etched into the pavement. Admire the tarmac stars and measure the size of your hand against those of your idols. Continuing on the theme of fame and paparazzi, cruise west along the Boulevard and take in the Capitol Records building on Vine Street before heading north for an exhilarating mix of rides and the chance to see your favourite television show being filmed at legendary Universal Studios. A tour of the studio may have whet your appetite for star spotting and the boutiques of Los Angeles’ centre of haute couture, Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills (with its famous 90210 postcode), will have you rubbing shoulders with the likes of Julia Roberts and Leonardo DiCaprio and perhaps fighting over that shawl or suit jacket from Gucci that you just have to have. Beverly Hills’ reputation as Plastic Fantastic may be, in part, justified, but seems an imbalanced view of what is actually a beautiful residential suburb. Meander the streets and take in the imposing houses and lush vegetation of the area, Opposite page (clockwise from top): The 3rd Street Promenade in Santa Monica is a pedestrian-only zone famed for its shopping; The Santa Monica pier is a 100-year-old landmark that has featured in many Hollywood classics; The Capitol Records Building was the world’s first circular office block when it was completed in 1956; L.A.’s great weather makes a visit to the beach a must; The Triceratops water fountain sculpture is typical of L.A.’s quirky attitude; The Hollywood Walk of Fame outside the Montalban Theatre is a major tourist draw; The iconic Hollywood sign; The Getty Centre offers a great vista of L.A.


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48hours


48hours TRAVEL INFORMATION Los Angeles is rightly known for its sunshine and year round balmy climate. January is the coldest month with daily temperatures between 15 and 23°C. August is the hottest month with daily temperatures reaching 26 to 32°C. On average there are only 35 days of rain annually. Currency is the US dollar (US$1 = €0.73 approximately). GETTING THERE EMIRATES flies twice daily nonstop between Dubai and Los Angeles. Visit emirates.com or emiratesholidays.com for further information. Above: The Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) has three branches in the Los Angeles area. The main branch is Downtown and is devoted to art from 1940 onwards. Right: For a scenic view of L.A. go for a spin along Mulholland Drive, which was made famous by the surrealist David Lynch movie.

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RESOURCES Plan your trip and read up on Los Angeles attractions and events with a visit to discoverlosangeles.com or latourist.com. FURTHER READING

before heading Downtown. Los Angeles’ central business district is often unjustly overlooked. Start off at the base of the iconic gleaming U.S. Bank Tower, the tallest building in California, before winding around to Chinatown. Whilst not as extensive as the same district in San Francisco, there are myriad restaurants serving noodles and dumplings. Walk off the carb overload at the Museum of Contemporary Art and then head over for a sunset stroll at Kenneth Hahn state park.

WEIRD HOLLYWOOD: YOUR TRAVEL GUIDE TO HOLLYWOOD’S LOCAL LEGENDS AND BEST KEPT SECRETS by Joe Oesterle is great for some insider knowledge. TOP 10 LOS ANGELES by Jeffrey Kennedy is a handy guide to have. FAST FACT Most California businesses follow a ‘business casual’ policy, and some tend toward shorts and sneakers with no socks. Ask your business contacts about standards at their company. Los Angeles is, however, the home of Hollywood and image conscious people. If you want to blend in at upmarket restaurants, bring your trendiest clothes and if you plan to go to the theatre or eat at a very exclusive restaurant, bring dress clothes. Otherwise, casual clothing is all you need.

WHERE TO STAY Avoid the hassle of Downtown and the throngs of Santa Monica and stay at the Marriott Los Angeles Airport. Hunt around and you can pick up a room for as little as $89 per night. It may not be in the thick of the action, but it is within easy driving distance to just about all the attractions. Alternatively, take a sea-view room at the Cadillac Hotel in Venice Beach for around $95 per night. The hotel has recently undergone an extensive renovation and, at a stone’s throw from the beach, might be just the ticket to the relaxed L.A. life.

TRIP TIP Rubbing shoulders with the rich and famous is a part of the lives of all residents in Los Angeles. True Los Angelinos act cool, calm and collected – almost aloof and disinterested – when bumping into their favourite actor or diva. If you’re inclined to scream at the top of your lungs or jump up and down on the spot, you will raise the eyebrows of all passers by. Quietly nod and ask for an autograph, though have the sensibility to discern the mood of the ‘star’ and back off if need be.

WHAT TO EAT AND DRINK One glance into The Standard Hotel’s Rooftop Bar in the Downtown district and you may never leave Los Angeles. With its majestic view over the captivating skyline, you will feel in the thick of the vibrant metropolis. The hotel’s 24/7 Restaurant sports chic, cutting edge architecture and a variety of mouthwatering dishes.

MUST DO The soaring Santa Monica Mountains, which frame the Los Angeles skyline, are not to be missed. Take a casual drive on pretty Mulholland Drive to see some of the most spectacular semi-arid landscapes in all of California. The road was pinned on every Los Angeles map after the release of David Lynch’s whacky namesake film. ❖



dubaidiary

THE HOT LIST The best nightlife, spas and restaurants.

UPCOMING EVENTS

SPAS Satori Spa This exceptional spa and award-winning resort has launched a series of wellness breaks. In collaboration with leading fitness and wellness professionals PTX, Bab Al Shams offers an invigorating residential retreat programme centered on performance training, personal health and wellness. Jumeirah Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 809 6232

One&Only Spa, The Palm This huge and new 2,400-square-metre spa has immediately joined the top ranking spas in the region. Under the auspices of spa experts ESPA and set within serene pools, fountains and courtyards, this haven of pleasure and relaxation just has to be experienced. One&Only, The Palm, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 440 1010

The Softouch Spa A superb five-star spa that is distinguished by its authentic Ayurvedic treatments. Massages, herbal selections and spa products are selected for a tailored, health-promoting, luxurious experience. Kempinski Hotel, Mall of the Emirates, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 409 5909

BRUNCHES Double Decker Red phone boxes and coats of amour adorn the walls of this Brit-themed pub that offers a superb brunch every Friday. Double Decker is the ideal place to celebrate the rugby season. Al Murooj Rotana, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, 12pm to 4pm, Dhs159, Tel: +971 4 321 1111

Armani/Hashi For an afternoon framed by a superb view over Downtown Dubai and Japanese haute cuisine, this new brunch will not disappoint. The finest sushi, sashimi and tepanyaki awaits. The Burj Khalifa, Downtown Dubai, 12pm-3.30pm, Dhs290-Dhs585, Tel: +971 4 888 3444

Al Qasr This multi-award winning culinary feast is synonymous with brunch in Dubai. There is an exhaustive spread spanning a host of international cuisine. More expensive but it offers three rooms and a terrace all filled with the finest food. This is a must at least once.

7TH DUBAI INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL DECEMBER 12-19 This fantastic event continues to go from strength to strength as it invites industry greats from around the world to take part in an engaging series of events, workshops, seminars and, most importantly, enjoying the finest selection of international cinema. DIFF acts as a platform for encouraging the film industry in the region and has become the leading film festival in the Middle East, Africa and Asia. Its mission is to promote better cultural understanding through creative achievements in film. dubaifilmfest.com

Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai, 12.30pm-4pm, Dhs495, Tel: +971 4 366 6730

RESTAURANTS Aussie Legends A haven for sport and antipodean spirit, Aussie Legends is everything you would expect from an authentic Australian bar. The impressive array of dishes and sports playing on its numerous big screens makes it perfect for a post-sevens boogie. Rydges Plaza Dubai, Al Diyafah Street, Satwa, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 398 2222

La Petite Maison This hugely popular French restaurant chain has made a welcome entrance onto the Dubai culinary scene and immediately scooped up a slew of accolades. It’s continually packed and one visit will reveal why – beautiful décor together with the finest Niçoise menu. DIFC, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 439 0505

PHOTO: WHAT’S ON

Reflets Par Pierre Gagnaire No stranger to awards, the three Michelin starred chef Pierre Gagnaire offers a dining experience almost without peer. The array of mind boggling culinary creations combined with the über luxurious setting will ensured meal to remember.

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InterContinental Dubai Festival City, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 701 1111

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BRYAN ADAMS DECEMBER 17 The record holder for the longest running Number 1 hit in the history of the British charts (16 weeks with ‘Everything I Do’), Bryan Adams brings his world tour to Dubai. This hugely popular Canadian was the first Westerner to play in both Pakistan and Vietnam, and Middle East based fans can expect to hear rock ‘n’ roll favourites such as ‘Summer of 69’ and ‘18 Till I Die’. See him at the Arena – Dubai World Trade Centre.

WRITTEN EXCLUSIVELY FOR EMIRATES MAGAZINE. BY THE EDITORS OF



coolstuff

DON’T WORRY, BE ’APPY

Apps take the stress out of flying, driving and walking, telling you where to go, and what to do, next.

GOOGLE MAPS | US$FREE | Android, iOS 4, BlackBerry, Windows Mobile, Symbian

It don’t matter which smartphone, the big G’s map app is a must download. It’s fast, accurate and includes handy features like Street View photos, location sharing and points of interest.

SKOBBLER | US$FREE | Android, iOS 4

This fantastic navigation system gives you 2.5D turn-byturn sat-nav. There’s even a walking mode, that gets weekly updates from OpenStreetMap’s open-source maps.

GOOGLE GOGGLES | US$FREE | Android AROUNDME | US$FREE | Android, iOS 4

A ‘does what it says on the tin’ job, AroundMe tells you exactly that: what interesting locations are nearby. It uses Google Maps to plot local hotels, restaurants and other usefuls. You can also email or text the info to your friends.

WIKITUDE WORLD BROWSER | US$FREE | Android, iOS 4, Symbian

Wherever you go, Wikitude will be there to augment your reality with essential info. It’ll give you points of interest, restaurants, restrooms, you name it. You can even upgrade it with expert Lonely Planet city guides for US$5.

Built in Babelfish tech means you can point your mobile’s cam at foreign text and it will make a decent attempt at translating it for you. Lost in translation, we think not.

COPILOT LIVE 8 | US$30 | Android, iOS 4, Windows Mobile

Gives you a navigation experience equal or better than most dedicated sat-navs out there. Includes local search, live location sharing and for an extra US$15, live traffic and nearby fuel prices. WRITTEN EXCLUSIVELY FOR EMIRATES MAGAZINE. BY THE EDITORS OF

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departure

Coyote Buttes

CO-ORDINATES ARE FOR ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSES ONLY.

LATITUDE: 38° 58’ 3.9462” LONGITUDE: -112° 0’ 40.647”

● Salt

Lake City

● Coyote

Buttes

Phoenix

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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

C

oyote Buttes is a picturesque wilderness of ripple rock formations around the Arizona and Utah border near the Paria river in the US. While every inch of this multi-coloured strata is uniquely attractive, the swirling, smooth walls of orange, pale pine and fawn coloured rock formation known simply as ‘The Wave’ is a major draw for hikers. The incredible sandstone formation has been featured countless times in European movies and is now protected by the Bureau of Land Management. ❖



The BAILEYS word and associated logos are trademarks Š R & A Bailey & Co. 2010.

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Emirates News ■

Emvironment

Comfort in the Air

U.S. Customs & Immigration Forms

Route Map

Net Profits Surge In the first six months of the current financial year, Emirates earned net profits of US$925 million (Dhs3.4 billion), a massive 351.2 per cent increase compared to US$205 million (Dhs752 million) for the same period in 2009. The airline’s newly published half-year results also show passengers carried up by 17.3 per cent to 15.5 million and a seat factor of 81.2 per cent, the highest ever for a first half-year reporting period. Premium class seat factors rose 2.6 percentage points, reflecting an encouraging change in the global economic outlook. HH Sheikh Ahmed bin Saeed Al Maktoum, Chairman and Chief Executive, Emirates Airline and Group, has described the results as “incredibly robust”. He said: “Our strong position today reflects our ability to adapt, returning us to a vigorous period of growth. With 62 new state-of-the-art aircraft ordered in the first half, we remain well positioned to capitalise on this growth.” Emirates SkyCargo earned revenue of US$1.2 billion (Dhs4.4 billion), a 48.4 per cent increase, with cargo tonnage up by 23.7 per cent to 897,000 tonnes. Emirates’ cash balances had grown by the end of September to US$3.4 billion (Dhs12.5 billion), an improvement of 18.5 per cent when compared to 31st March 2010. The airline has also successfully raised financing of US$1.3 billion (Dhs4.6 billion) during the period. Emirates achieved revenue, including other operating income, of US$7.2 billion (Dhs26.4 billion) for the half-year, an increase of 35.5 per cent compared to the same period last year.

HH Sheikh Ahmed bin Saeed Al Maktoum, Chairman and Chief Executive, Emirates Airline and Group.

December 2010

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Emirates news

Emirates’ flagship A380 is back on the Dubai-New York route. The superjumbo made its welcome return last month, just days after the airline launched double daily flights to Houston and Los Angeles. The new services represent a boost in capacity on Emirates’ US routes of almost 50 per cent. Flight EK201 is now operated with an A380 aircraft departing Dubai at 08:30, arriving New York (JFK) at 13:50 the same day. EK202 departs JFK at 23:00, arriving Dubai at 20:30 the following day. With aviation a key stimulant of economic activity, Emirates’ new services will generate a raft of benefits for trade, commerce and tourism for the Middle East and the USA. Trade and investment between the United States and the United Arab Emirates is already robust and growing fast. Since Emirates launched its first flight to New York in 2004, the value of trade between the US and the UAE has almost tripled, reaching US$12.7 billion in the 12 months to June 2010. Emirates currently flies non-stop to four American cities: New York, Houston, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

Monique Wright, from Channel 7, in the flight deck of the Emirates Airbus A380 before take-off for the celebratory fly-past over Flemington Racecourse on Emirates Melbourne Cup day. She is with Captain Eric Trotter (left), First Officer James Nixon (right hand seat) and First Officer Sayed Ahmad Alhashimi.

A Flying First Melbourne’s Flemington Racecourse had never seen anything like it. Just before the horses paraded for the 150th running last month of the iconic Emirates Melbourne Cup, Emirates wowed the crowd with a double fly-past of an Emirates Airbus A380, the world’s largest commercial aircraft. After the race, won by French-trained Americain, HH Sheikh Ahmed bin Saeed Al Maktoum, Chairman and Chief Executive, Emirates Airline & Group, presented the trophy. Emirates is Principal Partner of the 98

Open Skies

Melbourne Cup Carnival and the title sponsor of the Emirates Melbourne Cup and Emirates Stakes. Skywards, Emirates’ loyalty programme, took its Thanks a Million campaign, which has been running for 10 years at the Dubai World Cup, to this year’s Melbourne Carnival and donated one million Skywards Miles as a prize in the promotion to raise money for disadvantaged young people. One million Skywards Miles is equivalent to five return Emirates Business Class fares from Melbourne to Europe, with a value of US$52,450.

ISTOCK PHOTO

A380 is Back!

Statue of Liberty

Tripoli’s Triple Emirates has increased passenger capacity on its Tripoli services by 40 per cent with the addition of three new weekly flights introduced last month, bringing the weekly total to 10. The new flight, EK743, departs Dubai at 17:40 and arrives in Tripoli at 22:10 every Monday, Thursday and Saturday. The return flight, EK744, departs Tripoli at 00:10 and arrives in Dubai at 07:20 every Tuesday, Friday and Sunday. The new services are operated with an A330-200 aircraft offering 12 First Class, 42 Business Class and 183 Economy seats. Other flights to Tripoli are operated with an Airbus A340-500 aircraft with 12 First Class Suites, 42 Business Class and 204 Economy Class seats, plus 15 tonnes of cargo capacity.


Type Area

: 23.3 X 17.6 cm

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your home in dubai

‫ﻳﻘﻊ اﻟﻔﻨﺪق ﻓﻲ ﻗﻠﺐ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬

sheikh zayed road, Dubai

‫ﻳﺘﻮﺳﻂ ﻗﻠﺐ ﻣﺮﻛﺰ دﺑﻲ ﻟ�ﻋﻤﺎل‬ ‫ دﻗﺎﺋﻖ‬٥ – ‫ﺑﺮج ﺧﻠﻴﻔﺔ ودﺑﻲ ﻣﻮل‬ ‫ﻣﺤﻄﺔ اﻟﻤﺘﺮو أﻣﺎم اﻟﻔﻨﺪق‬ ‫ دﻗﻴﻘﺔ‬٤٥-‫ﻣﻄﺎر أﺑﻮ ﻇﺒﻲ‬ ‫ دﻗﻴﻘﺔ‬١٥-‫ﻣﻄﺎر دﺑﻲ‬ ‫ دﻗﺎﺋﻖ‬٥-‫ﺷﺎﻃﺊ اﻟﺠﻤﻴﺮا‬ ‫ دﻗﺎﺋﻖ‬١٠-‫ﺳﻜﻲ دﺑﻲ‬/‫ﻣﻮل ا�ﻣﺎرات‬

Our Location

‫ دﻗﺎﺋﻖ‬٥-‫ﻣﺮﻛﺰ دﺑﻲ اﻟﻤﺎﻟﻲ اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻤﻲ‬ ‫ دﻗﺎﺋﻖ‬٥-‫ﻣﺮﻛﺰ دﺑﻲ اﻟﺪوﻟﻲ ﻟﻠﻤﺆﺗﻤﺮات‬ ‫ ﻣﺮﻛﺰ رﺟﺎل ا�ﻋﻤﺎل وﻗﺎﻋﺎت اﻻﺟﺘﻤﺎﻋﺎت‬،‫ أﺟﻨﺤﺔ‬،‫ ﻏﺮﻓﺔ‬٥٠٠ ‫ﺳﺒﺎ وﺣﻤﺎم ﺳﺒﺎﺣﺔ ﺧﺎرﺟﻲ‬ ‫ﻟﻠﺘﺮﻓﻴﻪ وا�ﻋﻤﺎل‬ Located in the heart of Dubai Centre of Dubai’s business district Burj Khalifa and Dubai Mall – 5 min. Metro Station in front of Hotel Abu Dhabi Airport – 45 min. Dubai Airport – 15 min. Jumeirah Beach – 5 min. Mall of the Emirates/Ski Dubai – 10 min. Dubai International Financial Centre – 5 min. Dubai International Convention Centre – 5 min. 500 rooms, suites, business centers & meeting rooms Spa & outdoor Swimming Pool. For leisure & business

150 $ Starting Rate, Terms and conditions apply

‫ ﺗﻄﺒﻖ اﻟﺸﺮوط وا�ﺣﻜﺎم‬.ً‫ دوﻻرا‬١٥٠ ‫ﺗﺒﺪأ ا�ﺳﻌﺎر ﻣﻦ‬

P.O. Box 32161, Dubai, United Arab Emirates Tel: +971 4 323 0000 I Fax: +971 4 323 0003 reservation@emiratesgrandhotel.com


Emirates news

More Flights to KSA Emirates is increasing its operations in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia with an additional 10 services per week to Riyadh and Jeddah – a total of 3,770 more seats per week on the two routes. On 31st October, services to Riyadh increased with five additional flights per week, taking its weekly total to 12 flights, serviced with an Airbus A330-200 offering 12 First Class, 42 Business Class and 183 Economy Class seats. From 2nd January 2011, Jeddah will receive five additional services, including a second A380 service, taking its weekly operation to 12 flights. This latest expansion programme closely follows Emirates’ introduction of a daily service to Al Medinah al Munawarah. Emirates operates flights to four cities in Saudi Arabia: Riyadh, Jeddah, Dammam and Al Medinah al Munawarah.

CARGO BOOST Emirates SkyCargo, Emirates’ freight division, has launched a new service to meet the demands of the UAE-Brazil trade route. A Boeing 747-400F with a capacity of 117 tonnes now operates weekly between Dubai and São Paulo, providing much needed support to the thriving import and export industry generated by South America’s largest city. Emirates has been operating a passenger service to São Paulo Guarulhos International Airport, with a weekly cargo capacity of 105 tonnes each way, since 2007. The new service – to ViracoposCampinas International Airport – will operate via Frankfurt, Germany, on the outbound journey and return via Dakar, Senegal, the most recent addition to Emirates’ network of 108 destinations. Emirates SkyCargo, which was named Air Cargo Carrier of the Year at last month’s 2010 IFW Awards in London, operates freighter services to 25 destinations worldwide.

Beat the Deadline

Emirates is offering packages for the AFC Asian Cup Qatar 2011 football tournament.

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Open Skies

Bite-sized Emirates’ inflight catering has been honoured with the coveted PAX International Readership Award for the third consecutive year. Emirates won the Outstanding Food Service by a Carrier for the Middle East award for its unrivalled commitment to quality.

Fans of the beautiful game have until 15th December to buy a competitively-priced Emirates package for the AFC Asian Cup Qatar 2011. The tournament takes place in Doha from 7th to 29th January 2011, when 16 of Asia’s top national teams will compete. They include the United Arab Emirates, Korea, Japan and Australia. The packages include a choice of hotels, as well as a match ticket, and have been designed so that football fans living in the Gulf region can fly to Doha, watch their favourite team play, and fly back the next morning. Packages can be purchased through travel agents and Emirates offices worldwide. All taxes and service charges are included in the prices. For bookings or more information, visit emirates.com




‘Emvironment’ (definition): Emirates’ environmental programme – a wide range of initiatives aimed at continuously improving our environmental performance.

In the air and on the ground, the Emirates Group is committed to acting sustainably in the interests of our customers, our business, the natural environment and the 108 destinations that we serve worldwide. The Group has already achieved numerous environmental milestones – each month we will bring you the latest news of our efforts and commitment towards eco-efficiency and sustainability. In this edition, we look at two ways Emirates is reducing emissions while our aircraft are still on the ground. SAVING FUEL AND EMISSIONS BEFORE TAKING TO THE SKY Emirates believes that having a young and modern fleet is only the beginning when it comes to reducing fuel burn and emissions. The way we fly our aircraft has a huge impact on our environmental performance. Our Flight Operations team plays a critical role in managing and minimising the fuel consumption, noise performance and emissions of our modern aircraft fleet. There are many areas of the world where we work with different authorities to allow us to fly as efficiently as possible and to reduce our emissions in areas like climb procedures, cruise speeds, altitudes and flight planning improvements. Flight Operations is also constantly looking at every aspect of how our aircraft are used while on the ground. Two procedures are making a big difference even before the aircraft takes to the sky; single

engine taxiing and changes to how we power the aircraft while at the terminal. Emirates’ aircraft reduce fuel consumption by using a single engine to taxi where possible. This means our aircraft taxi to and from the runway using only one of all the engines available to propel it forward. While Emirates, along with other airlines,

have been using this method for some time we are ensuring it becomes part of our standard operating procedure where possible. Studies suggest that one minute of single engine taxiing per aircraft movement saves 430,000 litres of fuel annually. With more than 350 Emirates flights per day in and out of Dubai alone, this represents a significant fuel saving. To save fuel while parked at the gate, Emirates’ aircraft use fixed power supplies for powering air-conditioning and other aircraft electrical systems while on the ground. Previously, aircraft burned fuel to power Auxiliary Power Units (APU) while on the ground. Studies have shown that fixed electrical power units can reduce the amount of fuel burn used on ground power by up to 85 per cent. These are just two of the ways we reduce our emissions using up-to-the minute flight operation technology to fly our aircraft smarter and more efficiently. ❖

If you require any further information regarding our Emvironment programme, please go to the ‘About Emirates’ tab on emirates.com or email the Environment team at pea@emirates.com December 2010 103


Comfort in the air To help you arrive at your destination feeling fine and refreshed, Emirates have developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you to enjoy your journey and time onboard with Emirates today. BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY

DURING THE FLIGHT

❖ Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition. ❖ Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications? ❖ Get a good nights rest before the flight. ❖ Eat lightly and sensibly.

❖ Sucking and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent. ❖ Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy. ❖ Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently. ❖ Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

AT THE AIRPORT

WHEN YOU ARRIVE

❖ Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in. ❖ Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress. ❖ Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

❖ Try some light exercise or read if you can’t sleep after arrival at your destination. It generally takes the body’s biological clock approximately one day to adjust per time zone crossed.

SMART TRAVELLER

104

Rehydrate with water or juices frequently. Drink tea and coffee in moderation.

Loosen your clothing, remove your jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body that constricts your blood circulation.

Light exercises on your lower legs and calf muscles encourages blood flow and helps reduce muscle fatigue and swelling in the feet.

Carry only essential items that you will need during your flight.

Cabin air is drier than normal therefore we recommend that you wear glasses during flights.

Apply a good quality skin moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out due to the drier cabin air.

Open Skies

FOR MORE TIPS AND ADVICE TO HELP YOU TO ENJOY YOUR FLIGHT AND ARRIVE AT YOUR DESTINATION FEELING FRESH, LOOK OUT FOR MESSAGES ON AIRSHOW, OR REFER TO YOUR INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT GUIDE FOR PROGRAMME DETAILS.



Guide to US customs & immigration forms Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the US today this simple guide to completing the US customs and immigration forms will help to ensure that your journey is as smooth and hassle free as possible. The Cabin Crew will offer two forms when nearing your destination. Here we provide simple guidelines on correctly completing the forms. CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

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Open Skies

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� Complete the forms prior to landing. � Use a pen and write in capital letters. � Complete every line. � Ensure you write in the correct space. � If you are in transit through the US, write ‘transit’ in the address field. � If you make a mistake ask a member of Cabin Crew for a fresh form.


IMMIGRATION FORM The IMMIGRATION FORM I-94 (Arrival/Departure Record) should be completed if you are a non-US citizen in possession of a valid US visa and your final destination is the US or if you are in transit to a country outside the US. A separate form must be completed for each person, including children travelling on their parents’ passport. The form includes a Departure Record which must be kept safe and given to your airline when you leave the US. If you hold a US or Canadian passport, US Alien Resident Visa (Green Card), US Immigrant Visa or a valid ESTA (see below) YOU ARE NOT REQUIRED to complete an immigration form.

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If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the US under the Visa Waiver Programme it is now mandatory to apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) at least 72 hours prior to your departure.

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ESTA Facts: â?– Children and infants require an individual ESTA.

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â?– The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending.

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â?– A successful ESTA application is valid for two years, however this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.

Apply online at www.cbp.gov/esta a b

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Cabin Crew will be happy to help if you need assistance completing the forms.

Nationalities eligible for the Visa Waiver*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**. *Subject to change. **Only British Citizens qualify under the Visa Waiver Programme.

December 2010 107


Routes emirates now flies to more than 100 destinations GREENLAND GREENLAND GREENLAND GREENLAND

Western Western Western Europe Europe Europe Gothenburg Gothenburg Gothenburg

Kristiansand Kristiansand Kristiansand Kristiansand SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND

Glasgow Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh Edinburgh Edinburgh Edinburgh Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Sunderland Sunderland Sunderland Sunderland

Varnamo Varnamo Varnamo Falkenberg Falkenberg Falkenberg

Falkenberg

Varnamo

DENMARK DENMARK DENMARK DENMARK Copenhagen Copenhagen Copenhagen Copenhagen Nykobing

N. IRELAND N. N. IRELAND IRELAND N. IRELAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds IRELAND IRELAND IRELAND IRELAND Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Dublin Dublin Dublin Dublin NETH.

Poiters

Echo Bay Echo Echo Bay Bay Echo Bay Baker Lake

Baker Baker Lake Lake

Lugo

Churchill

Churchill Churchill

Inukjuak

Fort McMurrayFort Fort McMurray McMurrayFort McMurray Bear Bear Bear Lake Lake DawsonLake CreekDawson Dawson Creek CreekDawson Creek Thompson Thompson Thompson Grande PrairieGrande Grande Prairie PrairieGrande Prairie Flin Flon Flin Flin Flon Flon Flin Flon Prince RupertPrince Prince Rupert RupertPrince Rupert Prince Albert Prince Prince Albert Albert Prince Albert Prince Prince Prince Prince George George George Red Deer George Red Red Deer Deer Red Deer Saskatoon Saskatoon Saskatoon Saskatoon Bear Lake

Kamloops

Kamloops Kamloops

Calgary Calgary Kamloops Calgary

Inukjuak Inukjuak

Spokane Spokane Spokane Spokane Seattle Seattle Seattle Butte

Butte Butte

Twin Twin Falls Falls

Moosonee

Butte

Duluth

Duluth Duluth

Marseille

Dallas

E

Amos

Frankfurt Frankfurt Frankfurt Frank Paris Paris Paris AUSTRIA AUSTRIA AUSTRIA Munich Munich Munich Munich Zurich Zurich Zurich Zurich Nantes Nantes Nantes Vienna Vien Vien ROM SWITZ. FRANCE SWITZ. SWITZ. SWITZ. FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE Venice Milan Venice Venice Buch Milan Milan Milan Bayonne Bayonne BayonneNice BayonneITALY Nice Nice NiceSERBIAITAL ITALY ITALY Paris

MontrealOttawa Montreal Montreal Montreal Ottawa Ottawa

Ottawa

A T LA A T LA N ATT LN IC AT N I CT I C

BUL MONTENEGRO MONTE MONTE

MACED Zaragoza Zaragoza Zaragoza Zaragoza Rome Rome Rome Rome Madrid Madrid Madrid Madrid Naples ALBANIA Naples Naples A PORTUGAL PORTUGAL PORTUGAL PORTUGAL GREE SPAIN SPAIN SPAIN SPAIN Ponta Delgada Ponta Ponta Delgada Delgada Ponta Delgada Lisbon Lisbon Lisbon SevillaLisbon Sevilla Sevilla Sevilla

At Tunis Tunis Athens Tunis Ath Malta Ma

Gibraltar Gibraltar Gibraltar Gibraltar Algiers Algiers Algiers Algiers TUNISIA TUNISIA TUNISIA TUNISIA Rabat Rabat Rabat Rabat

Casablanca Casablanca Casablanca Ouargla

Atlanta

Tampa

Reggane

CUBA CUBA CUBA CUBAREP.DOM. DOM. DOM. REP. REP.DOM. REP. JAMAICA JAMAICA JAMAICA JAMAICA BELIZE BELIZE BELIZE BELIZE HAITI HAITI HAITI HAITI HONDURAS HONDURAS HONDURAS HONDURAS

Araouane

Georgetown Georgetown Georgetown Georgetown VENEZUELA VENEZUELA VENEZUELA VENEZUELA PANAMA PANAMA PANAMA PANAMA Paramaribo Paramaribo Paramaribo Paramaribo Bogota Bogota BogotaGUYANA BogotaGUYANA GUYANA GUYANA FRENCH GUIANA FRENCH FRENCH GUIANA GUIANA FRENCH GUIANA SURINAME SURINAME SURINAME SURINAME COLOMBIA COLOMBIA COLOMBIA COLOMBIA Quito ECUADOR Quito Quito Quito ECUADORECUADOR ECUADOR Manaus Manaus Manaus ManausBelem Talara

Lima

Middle Middle Middle EastEastEast Varna Burgas

Varna Varna Burgas Burgas

Varna Burgas

Sochi

Sochi Sochi Ordzhonikidze Sochi Ordzhonikidze Aqtau Ordzhonikidze Aqtau Aqtau Ordzhonikidze

Tbilisi Poti Tbilisi Poti Tbilisi Poti Tbilisi

Poti Zonguldak Zonguldak Zonguldak Zonguldak Istanbul Istanbul Istanbul Istanbul Ankara Bursa Ankara Bursa Bursa Ankara Bursa Ankara Yerevan Izmir

Izmir

Antalya Antalya Adana Nicosia

Antalya Adana Adana Aleppo

Adana Aleppo Aleppo Mosel Nicosia

Nicosia Nicosia SYRIA

Tabriz

Ardabil Tabriz Tabriz

Iraklion Iraklion

Iraklion

SYRIA SYRIA

SYRIA

Bakhtaran

Alexandria

Jerusalem Jerusalem JerusalemJerusalem Alexandria Alexandria Alexandria IRAQ IRAQ IRAQ Port Said Port Port Said Said Port Said Basra JORDAN JORDAN JORDAN JORDAN

Suez Suez Suez Cairo Cairo Cairo

Basra Basra

IRAN

Atbara

SUDAN SUDAN

Port Port Sudan Sudan

Atbara Atbara

SUDAN

SAUDI ARABIA SAUDI SAUDI ARABIA ARABIA SAUDI ARABIA OMAN OMAN OMAN

Port Sudan

Al Fashir Mekele

Asmara YEMEN

YEMEN YEMEN

Djibouti

Djibouti Djibouti

Djibouti

Al Ghaydan Salalah Salalah

YEMEN

Al Mukalla Al Al Mukalla Mukalla Taizz Taizz Mekele Mekele Taizz Mekele Taizz Aseb Aseb Aseb Aseb

Al Mukalla

O COE CAOEN C A EN A NLuandaLuandaLuanda

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Recife

Huambo Huam Hua Z ANGOLA ANGO ANGO Lu

NAMIBIA NAMIBIA NAMIBIA

BOTSWA

WindhoekWindh Windh Walvis Bay Walvis Walvis Bay Bay Walvis B

Johannesbu JohanLu Luderitz Luderitz

Luderitz

Bloemfo

Herat Herat

Herat

Rosario Rosario Rosario Rosario URUGUAYURUGUAY Santiago Santiago Santiago Santiago URUGUAYURUGUAY ARGENTINA ARGENTINA ARGENTINA ARGENTINA Buenos Aires Buenos Buenos Aires Aires Buenos Aires Montevideo Montevideo Montevideo Montevideo Kerman Neuquen

Comodoro Rivadavia Comodoro Comodoro Rivadavia Rivadavia Comodoro Rivadavia

OMAN

Atbara

Al Ghaydan Al Al Ghaydan Ghaydan Salalah Sana’aSana’a Sana’a

Dem. of GABON GABON GABON GABO CONGO BrazzavilleBrazzaville Brazzaville Bra

SOUTH AFR S S

Kerman Kerman Basra Kerman Concepcion Concepcion Concepcion Concepcion Zahedan Zahedan Zahedan Zahedan Shiraz Shiraz Shiraz Bam Bam Bam Bam Neuquen Neuquen Neuquen Bandar AbbasBandar Bandar Abbas Abbas Bandar Abbas Valdivia Valdivia Valdivia Valdivia

Shiraz KuwaitKuwait Kuwait

KhartoumKhartoum Khartoum Khartoum Asmara Asmara Asmara Al Al Fashir Fashir

Herat

Esfahan

Kh

Porto Alegre Porto Porto Alegre Alegre Porto Alegre

Mashhad

EGYPT

Port Sudan

Al Fashir

IRAN IRAN

Mashhad Mashhad

Bilma Bilma

Kinshasa Kins Kins

Recife Recife

Nukus

Dammam Dammam Dammam Bahrain Bahrain Al Medinah Al Medinah AlBahrain Medinah Aswan Aswan Aswan Doha Doha Doha RiyadhRiyadh Riyadh Muscat Muscat Muscat Mecca Mecca Mecca Mecca Jeddah Jeddah Jeddah Al Khaluf Al Al Khaluf Khaluf Al Khaluf

EGYPT EGYPT Aswan

SUDAN

Mashhad Bakhtaran

IRAQ

Suez

Beni Beni Beni Beni Suef El-Minya Suef El-Minya El-Minya Suef El-Minya Suef

EGYPT

Sao Goncalo Sao Sao Goncalo Goncalo Sao Goncalo Recife Cachimbo

Tabriz

Bakhtaran Bakhtaran

Bilma Araouane

E

São Paulo São Paulo São Paulo

Tehran TehranTehran Mosel

Aleppo Mosel Mosel

Araouane Araouane

EQUATORIALEQUATORIAL EQUATORIAL GUINEA EQUATORIAL GUINEA GUINEA GUINEA SAO TOME &SAO SAO PRINCIPE TOME TOME & &SAO PRINCIPE PRINCIPE TOME &REPUBLIC PRINCIPE OFREPUBLI REPUBL Libreville Libreville Libreville Libre CONGO CONGO CONGO Sao Tome Sao Sao Tome Tome Sao Tome

Belem Belem Belem Fortaleza Fortaleza Fortaleza Fortaleza

Porto Velho Porto Porto Velho Velho Porto Velho Cachimbo Cachimbo Cachimbo

LIB LIB

Djanet Al Jawf

LagosLagosLagos Abidjan Abidjan Abidjan Accra Accra Accra Yaounde Yaounde Yaounde Y

Barreiras Barreiras BRAZIL BRAZIL BRAZIL Barreiras BRAZIL Barreiras Lima BOLIVIA BOLIVIA BOLIVIA BOLIVIA Salvador Salvador Salvador Salvador Brasilia Brasilia Brasilia Brasilia Cuiaba Cuiaba Cuiaba Cuiaba La Paz La La Paz Paz La Paz Goiania Goiania Goiania Goiania Sucre Sucre Sucre Sucre Belo Horizonte Belo Belo Horizonte Horizonte Belo Horizonte

Lima Lima

Nukus Nukus

PERU

Djanet Djanet

Nouakchott Nouakchott Nouakchott Nouakchott NIGER NIGER NIGERCHAD NIGERCH CH SENEGALSENEGAL SENEGALSENEGAL Niamey Niamey Niamey Niamey Bamako Bamako Bamako Bamako GAMBIA GAMBIA GAMBIA GAMBIA BURKINA BURKINA FASO BURKINA FASO BURKINA FASO NIGERIAFASO NIGERIA NIGERIA NIGERIA N’Djamena N’Dja N’Dja GUINEA BISSAU GUINEA GUINEA BISSAU BISSAU GUINEA BISSAU GUINEA GUINEA GUINEA GUINEA BENIN BENIN BENIN BENIN Abuja Abuja GHANA GHANA Abuja GHANA Abuja Conakry Conakry Conakry ConakryGHANA TOGO TOGO TOGO TOGO COTE COTE COTE COTE Freetown Freetown Freetown Freetown Porto Novo Porto Porto Novo Novo Porto Novo CENTRALCENTR CENTR AFRIC D'IVOIRE D'IVOIRE D'IVOIRE D'IVOIRE SIERRA LEONE SIERRA SIERRA LEONE LEONE SIERRA LEONE RE R Lome Lome Lome Lome REPUBLIC CAMEROON CAMEROON CAMEROON CAMER LIBERIA LIBERIA LIBERIA LIBERIA Malabo Bangui Malabo Malabo Malabo

Rio Rio De De Janeiro Janeiro Rio De Janeiro PARAGUAY PARAGUAY PARAGUAY PARAGUAYRio De Janeiro Antofagasta Antofagasta Antofagasta Antofagasta Baku Baku Baku Curitiba Curitiba Curitiba Curitiba TURKMENISTAN TURKMENISTAN TURKMENISTAN TURKMENISTAN Asuncion Asuncion Asuncion Asuncion CHILE CHILE CHILE CHILE Ardabil Ardabil Ardabil Ashgabat Ashgabat Ashgabat Ashgabat

BeirutBeirut Beirut Damascus Damascus DamascusIRAN Amman Amman Amman Baghdad Baghdad Baghdad EsfahanBaghdad Esfahan Esfahan

Iraklion

Trujillo

Yerevan Yerevan Yerevan Baku TURKEY TURKEY TURKEY TURKEY

Izmir Izmir Antalya

Aqtau Nukus

PERU PERU

Trujillo Trujillo

Sabhah Sabhah

MALI

Dakar Dakar Dakar

COSTA RICA COSTA COSTA RICA RICA COSTA RICA

Trujillo

MALI MALI

MAURITANIA MAURITANIA MAURITANIA MAURITANIA

GUATEMALA GUATEMALA GUATEMALA GUATEMALA NICARAGUA NICARAGUA NICARAGUA EL SALVADOR EL EL SALVADOR SALVADOR EL NICARAGUA SALVADOR Caracas Caracas Caracas Caracas

PERU

Sabhah Reggane

LIBYA Djanet

Mexico City Mexico Mexico City City Mexico City

Talara Talara

Reggane Reggane

WESTERNWESTERN WESTERNWESTERN SAHARA SAHARA SAHARA SAHARA

THE BAHAMAS THE THE BAHAMAS BAHAMAS THE BAHAMAS Havana Havana Havana

Talara

Ouargla TripoliTripoli Tripoli

Ouargla Ouargla MOROCCO MOROCCO MOROCCO MOROCCO

Canary Islands Canary Canary Islands Islands Canary Islands ALGERIA ALGERIA ALGERIA ALGERIA

MALI

O COE CAOEN C A EN A N

Vaasa

NORWAY NORWAY Torshavn Torshavn Torshavn Torshavn NORWAY NORWAY Hels Oslo Oslo Oslo Oslo Naples Naples StockholmStockholm Stockholm Taranto Naples Taranto Taranto Taranto Tallinn S

Nantes

Tampa Tampa Tampa Houston Houston Houston

P A PC AI FPC IAI CFCIICF I C

Skell Skel

Ostersund OstersunF

Ostersund

Gothenburg Gothenburg Gothenburg Gothenburg SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND DENMARKDENMARK DENMARKDENMARK Copenhagen Copenha Copenha Glasgow Glasgow Glasgow Glasgow LITHUA

Jacksonville Jacksonville Jacksonville Jacksonville New Orleans New New Orleans Orleans New Orleans

Havana

Lulea Skelleftea

Rome Rome Rome

Naples

Moosonee

Amos Amos Timmins

Dallas Dallas Dallas Atlanta Atlanta Atlanta Birmingham Birmingham Birmingham Birmingham

MEXICO MEXICO MEXICO MEXICO

Kiruna

SWEDEN SW SW

Vil Newcastle Newcastle NewcastleNewcastle N. IRELAND N. N. IRELAND IRELAND N. IRELAND Gdansk ENGLANDENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND Hamburg Hamburg Hamburg Hambu POLAND POLA POLA NETH. NETH. NETH. NETH. Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester Birmingham Birmingham Birmingham U. K. Birmingham U. U. K. K. U. K. Wars IRELAND IRELAND IRELAND WALES IRELAND WALES WALES WALES GERMANYGERMANY GERMANYGERMA London London London London Dusseldorf Dusseldorf Dusseldorf Dusseld Krakow

ToledoToledoToledo New York New York New York

Tucson

Alt

YUGOSLAVIAYUGOSLAVIA YUGOSLAVIAYUGOSLAVIA

Zaragoza Zaragoza Zaragoza Porto Madrid MadridMadrid S P A I N SS PP A A II N N S P A I N

Toronto Toronto Toronto MilwaukeeMilwaukee MilwaukeeMilwaukee

Twin Falls Scottsbluff

Tucson Tucson Tucson San DiegoSan San Diego Diego San Diego

Marseille Marseille

Valencia Valencia Valencia Valencia PORTUGAL PORTUGAL PORTUGAL PORTUGAL Valdepenas Valdepenas Lisbon Lisbon Lisbon Valdepenas Lisbon Valdepenas

Inukjuak

Moosonee Moosonee

Duluth

Minneapolis Minneapolis Minneapolis Minneapolis

San Francisco San Francisco San Francisco Los Angeles Los Angeles Los Angeles

Marseille

Porto Porto

Detroit Detroit Detroit Detroit Buffalo Buffalo Buffalo BostonBuffalo Boston Boston Boston Scottsbluff ScottsbluffChicago ScottsbluffChicago Chicago Chicago Omaha Omaha Omaha Provo Provo Provo Provo Omaha Reno Reno Reno Reno Baltimore Baltimore Baltimore Baltimore Kansas City Kansas Kansas City City Kansas City Philadelphia Philadelphia Philadelphia Philadelphia Denver Denver Denver U. S. A. Denver U. U. S. S. A. A. St. U. S. A. St. Louis Washington Oakland Oakland Oakland Oakland Washington Washington D. C. Washington D. D. C. C. D. C. St. Louis St. Louis Louis Norfolk Norfolk Norfolk Norfolk Charlotte Charlotte Charlotte Charlotte Albuquerque Albuquerque Albuquerque Albuquerque Memphis Memphis Memphis Memphis Las Vegas Las Las Vegas Vegas Las Vegas Twin Falls

Lugo

Burgos Burgos Burgos ANDORRA Burgos ANDORRA ANDORRA Vigo ANDORRA

Labrador City Labrador Labrador City City Labrador City

Brandon Amos Timmins Timmins Timmins Williston Grand Forks Grand Grand Forks Forks Grand Forks

Williston Williston

Portland Portland Portland Portland

Gdansk

HUNGARY HUNGARY HUNGARY HUNGARY SLOVENIA SLOVENIA SLOVENIA SLOVENIA Geneva Zagreb Zagreb Zagreb Zagreb

CANADA CANADA CANADA CANADA

Calgary

Williston

Poiters Geneva Geneva Geneva

Lyon Bordeaux Bordeaux

Thompson

Swift Current Swift Swift Current Current Swift Current Brandon Brandon Brandon

VancouverVancouver VancouverVancouver Seattle

Churchill

Lugo Lugo

Vigo Vigo

Porto Fort Chipewyan Fort Fort Chipewyan Chipewyan Fort Chipewyan Juneau

Poiters Poiters

Bordeaux

Vigo

Juneau Juneau

Nykobing Gdansk Gdansk

Ljubljana Ljubljana ICELAND Ljubljana ICELAND ICELAND Ljubljana ICELAND Lyon Lyon Milan Lyon Milan Milan CROATIA CROATIA CROATIA CROATIA I T A L Y II TT A A LL YY I T A L Y Bordeaux Reykjavik Reykjavik Reykjavik Reykjavik Venice Venice Venice BOSNIA BOSNIA BOSNIA BOSNIA Nuuk Nuuk Nuuk Nuuk Sarajevo Sarajevo Sarajevo Sarajevo Bayonne Bayonne Bayonne Nice Bayonne Toulouse Toulouse Toulouse Monaco Toulouse Monaco Nice Nice Monaco Monaco Ancona Ancona Ancona Ancona Oviedo Oviedo Oviedo Oviedo

Baker Lake

Rankin Inlet Rankin Rankin Inlet Inlet Rankin Inlet

Juneau

Nykobing Nykobing Gdansk

Hamburg Hamburg Hamburg NETH. NETH. NETH. Manchester Manchester Manchester Berlin Berlin Berlin Berlin Birmingham Birmingham Birmingham Amsterdam Amsterdam Amsterdam Rotterdam Rotterdam Rotterdam Rotterdam Cork Cork Cork Cork P O L A N D PP O O LL A AN ND D P O L A N D WALES WALES WALES WALES BELGIUM Dusseldorf BELGIUM BELGIUM Dusseldorf BELGIUM Dusseldorf Wroclaw Wroclaw Wroclaw Wroclaw London London London Brussels Brussels Brussels Brussels Breslau Breslau Breslau Breslau Frankfurt Frankfurt Frankfurt (Heathrow & (Heathrow Gatwick) (Heathrow & & Gatwick) (Heathrow Gatwick) & Gatwick) Liege Liege Liege Prague PraguePrague CZECH CZECH CZECH CZECH GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY Luxembourg Luxembourg Luxembourg Luxembourg SLOVAKIA SLOVAKIA SLOVAKIA SLOVAKIA Morlaix Morlaix Morlaix Morlaix Paris Paris Paris Vienna Vienna Vienna Rennes Rennes Rennes Le Mans Rennes Le Le Mans Mans Munich Le Mans Munich Joigny Joigny Joigny Joigny Munich Bratislava Bratislava Bratislava Bratislava AUSTRIA AUSTRIA AUSTRIA AUSTRIA LIECH. LIECH. LIECH. LIECH. Nantes Nantes Nantes Nantes Budapest Budapest Budapest Budapest Zurich Zurich Zurich FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND

Salalah

Port Stanley Port Port Stanley Stanley Port Stanley

Cape Town Cape Town Cape


A R AC RT ACI CRT C I CT I C

O COE CAOEN C A EN A N

The Suez Canal

ta

Alta Alta

Alta Murmansk Kiruna

Kiruna Kiruna

This shot was taken at noon over the Red Sea Khatanga Khatanga Khatanga whilst flying east to west en route from Dubai Volochanka Volochanka Volochanka Volochanka to Cairo, south of Suez. You can see the south entrance of the Suez Canal where it connects Norilsk Norilsk Norilsk Dudinka Dudinka Dudinka the MediterraneanAntipayuta andDudinka the Red Sea. At the Norilsk Antipayuta Antipayuta Antipayuta south of the canal you can see the northern Vorkuta Vorkuta Vorkuta Vorkuta terminal of Port Said andIgarka the southern Igarka Igarka Igarka terminal of Port Tawfik in the city of Suez. Ismailia lies on the canal’s west bank, 3km R Umark. S SR RI U A U S S S S RII A U A S S I A (1.9m) north of the half way

Murmansk Murmansk

Murmansk

WEDEN WEDEN SWEDEN Lulea Lulea

lleftea leftea

Lulea Skelleftea Archangelsk Archangelsk Archangelsk Archangelsk

FINLAND FINLAND FINLAND nd d Ostersund

a

Vaasa Vaasa

FINLAND

Vaasa Syktyvkar

Syktyvkar Syktyvkar

sinki Helsinki Helsinki Helsinki

m mStockholm Tallinn Tallinn

ESTONIA

Vologda Vologda Vologda Tallinn St. St. Petersburg St. Petersburg Petersburg St. Petersburg

ESTONIA ESTONIA ESTONIA Novgorod Novgorod Novgorod

Vologda

Kirov

Kirov Kirov

Ust-Olenek

Ust-Olenek Ust-Olenek

Ust-Olenek

Khatanga

Belaja Gora Belaja Belaja Gora Gora Belaja Gora

Batagay

Sangar Mirnyj

Syktyvkar First Officer David Behar Nizhnevartovsk Nizhnevartovsk Nizhnevartovsk Nizhnevartovsk Boeing 777 Flying with Emirates for 4 years Kirov

Mirnyj Mirnyj

Batagay Batagay

Sangar Sangar

Batagay

Sangar

Mirnyj Jakutsk

Jakutsk Jakutsk

Jakutsk

Magadan

Magadan Magadan

Magadan

Perm Perm Perm Perm Bodaybo Bodaybo Bodaybo Bodaybo Jaroslavl Jaroslavl Jaroslavl Jaroslavl Riga Riga Riga Riga Sverdlovsk Sverdlovsk Sverdlovsk Sverdlovsk Rostov Rostov Gorkiy Gorkiy GorkiyIzevsk GorkiyIzevsk Bratsk Krasnojarsk Bratsk Bratsk Bratsk LATVIA LATVIA LATVIARostov LATVIARostov Krasnojarsk Krasnojarsk Krasnojarsk Izevsk Izevsk agen agen Copenhagen ANIA LITHUANIA LITHUANIA LITHUANIA Chelyabinsk Chelyabinsk Chelyabinsk Chelyabinsk Omsk Omsk Omsk Omsk lnius Vilnius Vilnius Vilnius Kazan Kazan Kazan Kazan Ufa Ufa Ufa Ufa Minsk Gdansk Minsk Minsk Minsk Novosibirsk Novosibirsk Novosibirsk Novosibirsk Gdansk Gdansk urg Tol Yatti Tol Tol Yatti Yatti Tol Yatti AND AND POLAND Orol Orol Orol Orol Kuybyshev Rudnyy Rudnyy Rudnyy Rudnyy Kuybyshev Kuybyshev Kuybyshev BELARUSBELARUS BELARUSBELARUS Irkutsk Irkutsk Irkutsk Irkutsk Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskij Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskij Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskij Petropavlovsk-Kamchatski Atbassar Atbassar Atbassar Atbassar Voronez Voronez saw Warsaw Warsaw Warsaw Voronez Saratov Voronez Saratov Saratov Saratov ANY Ulan Ude Ulan Ulan Ude Ude Ulan Ude Kiev Kiev Kiev Kiev dorf Krakow Krakow Krakow Lviv Lviv Lviv Lviv Aktyubinsk Aktyubinsk Aktyubinsk Aktyubinsk Qaraghandy Qaraghandy Qaraghandy Qaraghandy kfurt VolgogradVolgograd VolgogradVolgograd Khabarovsk Khabarovsk Khabarovsk Khabarovsk UKRAINE UKRAINE UKRAINE UKRAINE KAZAKHSTAN KAZAKHSTAN KAZAKHSTAN KAZAKHSTAN Hovd Hovd Hovd Hovd Ulaanbaatar Ulaanbaatar Ulaanbaatar Ulaanbaatar AUSTRIA Qiqihar Qiqihar Qiqihar Qiqihar Juzno Sachalinsk Juzno Juzno Sachalinsk Sachalinsk Juzno Sachalinsk Balqash Balqash Balqash Balqash MOLDOVAMOLDOVA MOLDOVA Aralsk Aralsk Aralsk Aralsk Frunze MOLDOVA Frunze Frunze Frunze MONGOLIA Altay MONGOLIA Altay Altay MONGOLIA Altay MONGOLIA nna nna Vienna MANIAROMANIA ROMANIAROMANIA Harbin JixiHarbin Harbin Jixi Karamay Karamay Karamay Karamay JixiHarbin Jixi Venice harest Bucharest BucharestBucharest KrasnodarKrasnodar KrasnodarKrasnodar Changchun Changchun Changchun Jilin Changchun Jilin Jilin Jilin Urumqi Urumqi Urumqi Urumqi Dalandzadagad Dalandzadagad Dalandzadagad Dalandzadagad Constanta Constanta ConstantaConstanta LY SERBIA SERBIA SERBIA Sapporo Sapporo Sapporo Sapporo LGARIA BULGARIA BULGARIA BULGARIA ENEGRO ENEGRO MONTENEGRO UZBEKISTANUZBEKISTAN UZBEKISTANUZBEKISTAN Fuxin Fuxin Fuxin Fuxin Bishkek Bishkek Bishkek Korla Bishkek Korla Korla Korla GEORGIA GEORGIA GEORGIA GEORGIA Hami Hami Hami Hami DONIA MACEDONIA MACEDONIA MACEDONIA Benxi Benxi Benxi Benxi KYRGYZSTAN KYRGYZSTAN KYRGYZSTAN KYRGYZSTAN e Baotou Baotou Baotou Baotou AZERBAIJAN AZERBAIJAN AZERBAIJAN AZERBAIJAN Tashkent NORTH KOREA NORTH NORTH KOREA KOREA NORTH KOREA ARMENIA ARMENIA ARMENIA ARMENIA ALBANIA ALBANIA ALBANIA Tashkent Tashkent Tashkent C H I N C A C H H I I N N A C A H I N A Yumen Yumen Yumen Yumen Naples Kashi Kashi Kashi Kashi TURKMENISTAN TURKMENISTAN TURKMENISTAN TURKMENISTAN Ankara Ankara Ankara Ankara ECE GREECE GREECE GREECE TAJIKISTAN TAJIKISTAN TAJIKISTAN TAJIKISTANQiemo Pyongyang Pyongyang Pyongyang Pyongyang TURKEY TURKEY Qiemo Qiemo Qiemo Izmir Izmir IzmirTURKEY IzmirTURKEY Yinchuan Yinchuan Yinchuan Yinchuan Ashgabat Ashgabat Ashgabat Ashgabat Dalian Dalian Dalian Dalian Hotan Hotan Hotan Hotan Sendai Sendai Sendai Sendai Adana Adana Adana Adana Taiyuan Taiyuan Xining Golmud Xining XiningTaiyuan XiningTaiyuan Golmud Golmud Golmud Qingdao Qingdao Qingdao SOUTH Qingdao KOREA SOUTH SOUTH KOREA KOREA SOUTH KOREA Tehran Tehran IRAQ IRAQ IRAQTehran IRAQTehran Lanzhou Lanzhou LanzhouKaifeng LanzhouKaifeng Kaifeng Kaifeng Nicosia Nicosia Nicosia Nicosia A Bakhtaran Bakhtaran Bakhtaran Bakhtaran LEBANONLEBANON LEBANON Xian Xian Xian Xian SYRIA LEBANON SYRIA SYRIA SYRIA Esfahan Baghdad Esfahan Esfahan Esfahan Baghdad Baghdad Baghdad JAPAN JAPAN JAPAN JAPAN AFGHANISTAN AFGHANISTAN AFGHANISTAN AFGHANISTAN Mianyang Mianyang Mianyang Hefei Mianyang Hefei Hefei Hefei Basra Basra Basra IRAN Basra IRAN IRAN IRAN Chengdu Chengdu Chengdu Chengdu JORDAN JORDAN JORDAN JORDAN Multan Multan Multan Multan Huangshi Huangshi Huangshi Huangshi Cairo Cairo Cairo Cairo Shiraz Shiraz Shiraz Shiraz YueyangZigong Yueyang Yueyang Zigong Zigong Zigong WenzhouYueyang Wenzhou Wenzhou Wenzhou KUWAIT KUWAIT KUWAIT KUWAIT Sabhah PAKISTANPAKISTAN PAKISTANPAKISTAN Dukou Dukou Dukou Dukou Jaipur Jaipur Jaipur Jaipur Agra Agra Agra Agra Fuzhou Fuzhou Fuzhou Fuzhou EGYPT EGYPT EGYPT EGYPT Guiyang Guiyang Guiyang Guiyang BYA BYA LIBYA AllahabadAllahabad Allahabad Allahabad Riyadh Riyadh Riyadh Riyadh Varanasi Varanasi Varanasi Varanasi Xiamen Xiamen Xiamen Xiamen Novgorod

Moscow Moscow Moscow

AlmatyAlmatyAlmaty

Istanbul Istanbul Istanbul

thens hensAthens alta Malta Larnaca Larnaca Larnaca

i

BeijingBeijingBeijing Seoul Seoul Seoul

Bagram Bagram Bagram Peshawar Peshawar Peshawar Kabul KabulIslamabad KabulIslamabad Islamabad

TokyoTokyo Tokyo OsakaOsakaOsaka

Shanghai Shanghai Shanghai

LahoreLahoreLahore Delhi Delhi Delhi

Taipei Taipei Taipei Karachi Karachi Karachi Shantou Shantou DhakaDhakaDhaka Shantou Shantou Muscat TAIWAN TAIWAN TAIWAN TAIWAN Ahmedabad Ahmedabad Ahmedabad Guangzhou Guangzhou Guangzhou Hong Kong Hong Kong Hong Kong Nagpur Nagpur Nagpur MYANMAR MYANMAR MYANMAR MYANMAR Surat Surat Surat Nagpur Surat Kolkata Kolkata KolkataLAOS Hanoi SAUDI ARABIA SAUDI SAUDI ARABIA ARABIA SAUDI ARABIA Hanoi Hanoi Hanoi LAOS LAOS LAOS BANGLADESH BANGLADESH BANGLADESH BANGLADESH Bilma OMAN OMAN OMAN OMAN Mumbai Mumbai MumbaiRangoon Vientiane Rangoon Rangoon Rangoon Vientiane Vientiane Vientiane HAD HAD CHAD YEMEN YEMEN ERITREA ERITREA ERITREA YEMEN ERITREA YEMEN Hyderabad Hyderabad Hyderabad THAILAND THAILAND THAILAND THAILAND VIETNAM VIETNAM VIETNAM VIETNAM Asmara Asmara Asmara Asmara hartoum Khartoum Khartoum Sanaa Sanaa Sanaa Sanaa INDIA INDIA INDIA INDIA ManilaManila SUDAN SUDAN SUDAN SUDAN Bangkok BangkokManila Chennai Chennai ChennaiBangkok Bengaluru Bengaluru Bengaluru PHILIPPINES PHILIPPINES PHILIPPINES PHILIPPINES DJIBOUTI DJIBOUTI DJIBOUTI DJIBOUTI Phnom Penh Phnom Phnom Penh Penh Phnom Penh Aamena amenaN’Djamena Kozhikode Kozhikode Kozhikode Ho Chi Minh City Ho Ho Chi Chi Minh Minh City City Ho Chi Minh City SOMALIA SOMALIA SOMALIA SOMALIA Kochi Kochi Kochi Waw Waw Waw Waw Addis Addis AbabaAddis AbabaAbaba SRI LANKA SRI SRI LANKA LANKA SRI LANKA CAN RAL RALCENTRAL AFRICAN AFRICAN AFRICAN ETHIOPIAETHIOPIA ETHIOPIAETHIOPIA Thiruvananthapuram Thiruvananthapuram Thiruvananthapuram Colombo Colombo Colombo Davao Davao Davao Davao REPUBLIC EPUBLICREPUBLIC BRUNEI BRUNEI BRUNEI BRUNEI ROON Bangui Bangui Bangui Malé Malé MaléKuala Kuala Lumpur Kuala Lumpur Lumpur UGANDA UGANDA Yaounde UGANDA UGANDA MALAYSIA MALAYSIA MALAYSIAMALAYSIA KENYA KENYA KENYA KENYA LIC IC OF OFREPUBLIC OF Mogadishu Mogadishu Mogadishu Mogadishu eville Singapore Singapore Singapore Eldoret Eldoret Eldoret CONGO Entebbe Entebbe Entebbe Aswan Al Al Jawf Jawf Aswan Al Jawf Aswan

Aswan

Mecca

Muscat

Mecca Mecca

Muscat Muscat

Mecca

Dem. Dem. of of Dem. of ON RWANDA RWANDA RWANDA RWANDA CONGO CONGO CONGO azzaville BURUNDI BURUNDI BURUNDI BURUNDI

Nairobi Nairobi Nairobi

shasa shasa Kinshasa Kananga Kananga Kananga TANZANIA TANZANIA TANZANIATANZANIA

Dar esDar Salaam esDar Salaam es Salaam a Likasi Likasi Likasi Likasi

Kananga

MALAWI MALAWI MALAWI ambo mbo Huambo ZAMBIA ZAMBIA ZAMBIA ZAMBIA OLA OLA ANGOLA usaka Lusaka Lusaka Lusaka

I

Seychelles Seychelles Seychelles

N

IID

N NO

ID DN NO OE DN NS OE EI

NS S A

EII

S A A

Jakarta Jakarta Jakarta

P A PC AI FPC IAI CFCIICF I C O COE CAOEN C A EN A N

I A PAPUA PAPUA PAPUA PAPUA NEW GUINEA NEW NEW GUINEA GUINEA NEW GUINEA

Port Moresby Port Port Moresby Moresby Port Moresby

COMOROS COMOROS COMOROS COMOROS MALAWI

Lilongwe Lilongwe Lilongwe

Harare A NAMIBIA

Harare Harare

Harare

hoek hoekWindhoek MADAGASCAR MADAGASCAR MADAGASCAR MADAGASCAR MOZAMBIQUE MOZAMBIQUE MOZAMBIQUE MOZAMBIQUE BayGaboroneGaborone GaboroneGaborone Pretoria Pretoria Pretoria Pretoria Tolanaro Tolanaro Tolanaro Tolanaro Maputo Maputo Maputo Maputo Mbabane Mbabane Mbabane Mbabane uderitz ontein Bloemfontein Bloemfontein Bloemfontein SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND

nnesburg urg Johannesburg

Durban Durban Durban SOUTH SOUTH RICA AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH AFRICA LESOTHOLESOTHO LESOTHOLESOTHO Umtata Umtata Umtata Umtata

Town Port ElizabethPort Port Elizabeth ElizabethPort Elizabeth

IND I NI A D I NN I AD NI A N O COE CAOEN C A EN A N

Mauritius Mauritius Mauritius

WANA BOTSWANA BOTSWANA BOTSWANA ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE Antananarivo Antananarivo Antananarivo Antananarivo

Learmonth

Carnarvon

Geraldton

Cairns Broome

Broome Broome

Cairns Cairns

Port Hedland Port Port Hedland Hedland Port Hedland Mackay Learmonth Learmonth Learmonth Alice Springs Alice Alice Springs Springs Alice Springs AUSTRALIA AUSTRALIA AUSTRALIA AUSTRALIA Carnarvon Carnarvon

Geraldton Geraldton

Carnarvon

Geraldton Kalgoorlie

Perth Perth Perth

Cairns

Broome Tennant CreekTennant Tennant Creek CreekTennant Creek Mackay Mackay

Mackay

NEW CALEDONIA NEW NEW CALEDONIA CALEDONIA NEW CALEDONIA

Brisbane Brisbane Brisbane Cook Kalgoorlie Kalgoorlie

Cook Cook Kalgoorlie

Cook

Bourke

Bourke Bourke

Bourke

Sydney Sydney Sydney Auckland Auckland Auckland Melbourne Melbourne Melbourne Adelaide Adelaide Adelaide Adelaide

Canberra Canberra Canberra Canberra

NEW ZEALAND NEW NEW ZEALAND ZEALAND NEW ZEALAND

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M R PA S CA L R A F F Y, B OV E T O W N E R , WITH HIS SON A N D I N S P I R AT I O N , A M A D E O R A F F Y. ALL «AMADEO» MODELS A R E C O N V E RT I B L E I N TO A W R I S T WAT C H , A P O C K E T WAT C H A N D A TA B L E C L O C K ( PAT E N D P E N D I N G ) .

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INVENTOR OF THE FULLY INTEGRATED CONVERTIBLE WRISTWATCH

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