DUBAI THE MAKING OF A CULINARY CAPITAL
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CONTENTS / JULY 2014
44
Barcelonabased folk singer Aziza Paying a visit Brahim reveals to one of her favourite Dubai’s newest neighbourhoods, tracks Wasl Square
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55 50 46
Our verdict on Berlin boutique hotel The Dude
Meeting the owner of an indie bookstore in South Africa
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Chef Maryke Josling shares her favourite places to eat in Cape Town
OPEN SKIES / JULY 2014
Our comprehensive guide to Auckland
61
The man with the van determined to boost Dubai’s pop-up movement
contents / July 2014
76
Dubai: the making of a culinary capital
front (21) Calendar The Grid The Question The Street Skypod The Room
23 32 34 36 44 46
Consume BLD Mapped Local Knowledge Column
Main (75) Dubai: the making of a culinary capital Vital statistics: The Dubai Fountain
49 52 55 61 69
briefing (87) 76 84
News Comfort Visas & UAE Smart Gate Route Map The Fleet Last Look
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88 94 96 98 104 106
edItor-In-CHIeF ManaGInG partner & GroUp edItor edItorIal dIreCtor GroUp edItor edItor desIGner sUB edItor edItorIal assIstant edItorIal Intern
Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Ian Fairservice Gina Johnson gina@motivate.ae Mark Evans marke@motivate.ae Gareth Rees gareth@motivate.ae Ralph Mancao ralph@motivate.ae Salil Kumar salil@motivate.ae Londresa Flores londresa@motivate.ae Mary Keenan
ContrIBUtors Andrew Birbeck, Gemma Correll, hg2.com, Jamie Knights, Danna Lorch, Kamal Musallam, Louis Pattison, Robbie Porter, REM, Sandra Tinari Head oF prodUCtIon S Sunil Kumar senIor prodUCtIon ManaGer C Sudhakar assIstant prodUCtIon ManaGer R Murali Krishnan
General ManaGer, GroUp sales Anthony Milne anthony@motivate.ae
dIGItal developMent ManaGer Helen Cotton helenc@motivate.ae
GroUp sales ManaGer Jaya Balakrishnan jaya@motivate.ae reGIonal ManaGer aBU dHaBI Imane Eddinari Imane@motivate.ae
InternatIonal senIor sales ManaGer Michael Underdown michael@motivate.ae depUtY sales ManaGer Amar Kamath
edItorIal ConsUltants For eMIrates edItor Jonathan Hill araBIC edItor Hatem Omar depUtY edItor Andy Grant WeBsIte emirates.com InternatIonal MedIa representatIves aUstralIa/neW Zealand Okeeffe Media; Tel + 61 894 472 734, okeeffekev@bigpond.com.au BelGIUM and lUXeMBoUrG M.P.S. Benelux; Tel +322 720 9799, francesco.sutton@mps-adv.com CHIna Publicitas Advertising; Tel +86 10 5879 5885 GerManY IMV Internationale Medien Vermarktung GmbH; Tel +49 8151 550 8959, w.jaeger@imv-media.com HonG KonG/MalaYsIa/tHaIland Sonney Media Networks; Tel +852 2151 2351, hemant@sonneymedia.com IndIa Media Star; Tel +91 22 4220 2103, ravi@mediastar.co.in ItalY & spaIn IMM International; Tel +331 40 1300 30, n.devos@imm-international.com Japan Tandem Inc.; Tel + 81 3 3541 4166, all@tandem-inc.com netHerlands giO media; Tel +31 (0)6 22238420, giovanni@giO-media.nl tUrKeY Media Ltd.; Tel +90 212 275 51 52, mediamarketingtr@medialtd.com.tr UK Spafax Inflight Media; Tel +44 207 906 2001, nhopkins@spafax.com Usa Totem Brand Stories; Tel +1 4168475100, nicole.mullin@tc.tc
Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.
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102,863 copies – December 2013
Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE
EDITOR’S LETTER
W Gareth Rees, Editor
“THE RESIDENTS OF DUBAI ARE DETERMINED. IF THEY HAVE A PASSION TO DO SOMETHING, THEY ARE GOING TO GO AHEAD AND DO IT”
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elcome to the annual Dubai issue of Open Skies. I hope you will forgive me, I used the same gambit last year, but it’s nice to be polite, isn’t it? The purpose of this issue is to celebrate the city that we proudly call home, but also to present Dubai to the world in a new light. Everybody thinks they know Dubai, even if they haven’t been here – the international media is awash with tired and oft-repeated cliches about the city – but it has a lot more to offer than tall buildings, fast cars, sun, sand and shopping. All of those things are available, but Dubai is still a modern metropolis on the rise. In last year’s Dubai issue we introduced you to nine young movers and shakers, explored some of the unique obsessions of Dubai’s residents and reported on the city’s punk scene (if you missed all of that, download our app and enjoy the issue in all its digital splendour). When I had a minute to reflect on the stories, one thing stood out – the residents of Dubai are determined. If they have a passion to do something, they are going to go ahead and do it. It is this spirit, this desire to grow something out of nothing, and the creation of an environment in which that is possible, that entices streams of talented people here. That includes some of the world’s greatest chefs. As I have probably mentioned before, I used to be a food writer. In fact, I spent five years dining out several times a week in as many of Dubai’s restaurants as I could manage. It was a tough job, but somebody had to sacrifice their wasteline to do it. In that time, I witnessed the city’s restaurant scene change immeasurably. The first Dubai restaurant I ever reviewed was a standard hotel affair, the last was a new and exciting concept created by a chef who had spent several years at one of the city’s most celebrated restaurants, witnessed its success and been inspired to strike out on his own. In a decade or so, Dubai has grown from humble
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ON THE COVER / How do we celebrate the numerous star chefs who have helped to build Dubai into a culinary force to be reckoned with? Well, of course, we plaster their faces all over our front cover.
beginnings into a world-class culinary destination, boasting not only a glut of restaurants bearing the names of global stars but a number of impressive homegrown enterprises, too. It didn’t take me more than a couple of minutes to decide who to commission to write the feature that became ‘Dubai: The Making Of A Culinary Capital’. Jamie Knights, who lived in Dubai for several years and spent almost as much time in the city’s restaurants and speaking to its chefs as I did during that time, has spoken in depth to some of the star chefs who have supported the growth of the Dubai restaurant scene about what attracted them to the city. The resulting feature proves that international stars such as Gary Rhodes, Pierre Gagnaire, Jason Atherton, Wolfgang Puck and Heinz Beck are not just here to earn a quick buck. These chefs see Dubai growing into a big player on the global culinary scene, and so do I. Also in this issue, we reveal The Dubai Fountain’s vital statistics. How many people were involved in building one of Dubai’s most popular tourist attractions? Turn to page 84 to ogle our selection of informative infographics. Enjoy the issue.
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CONTRIBUTORS
SOME OF THE PEOPLE WHO HELPED CREATE THIS MAGAZINE
LOUIS PATTISON
KAMAL MUSALLAM
““Born in a refugee camp in Algeria, raised in Cuba and now settled in Spain, Aziza has a true global perspective, so it’s fascinating to hear what music has fuelled her imagination,” he says.
“Writing about my achievements in the music industry over the past 15 years, and especially about my role in developing the music scene in Dubai with projects such as Sikka, made me realise anew the responsibility I have to continue this mission,” he says.
Louis is a freelance journalist based in London. He has written for Uncut, The Wire, NME and Vice, among other publications. His writing has been published in the books 1001 Songs, Black Metal: Beyond The Darkness and Late Century Dream: Movements In The US Indie Music Underground. For this issue he interviewed Aziza Brahim for ‘Skypod’.
Kamal is a Jordanian musician, artist and architect. Acclaimed internationally for his Arabic fusion style, he has released six albums since 1999. He has performed and recorded with renowned artists including Bobby McFerrin, George Benson and Billy Cobham. For this issue he has written about the Dubai music scene.
SANDRA TINARI
An Australian writer and photographer, Sandra has spent almost 20 years travelling, chasing waves and living and working in London, Dubai, Italy and Portugal. She regularly contributes to a wide range of international lifestyle and travel titles, and her work has also appeared in the Financial Times and The Sunday Times. For this issue she visited Dubai’s Wasl Square. “Discovering offthe-beaten path locations and local neighbourhoods with camera in hand is a passion, so exploring Wasl Square was a delight,” she says.
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PAUL STERRY
JAMIE KNIGHTS
“I saw the Burj Khalifa and the surrounding area being built from start to finish when I lived in Dubai,” he says. “The Dubai Fountain is almost as amazing as the Burj itself.”
“I enjoy interviewing chefs because of the passion they have for their industry,” he says. “They are excited about Dubai’s culinary future, and we should be as well.”
Paul is a freelance illustrator based in Bristol, UK. He has created illustrations for clients all over the world, including the UK, the US and Dubai. Working for a variety of media from web to magazines to children’s books, he is able to turn his hand to almost anything. Adding to his long list of collaborations with Open Skies, this month, Paul produced the infographics for our ‘Vital Statistics: The Dubai Fountain’ feature.
Jamie is a writer based in Cornwall, England. He has contributed to a both national and international newspapers and magazines. Having spent several years in Dubai, he is a veteran of the local restaurant scene and has watched it progress from humble beginnings to the world-class culinary destination it is today. For this issue he charts that progression, speaking to several of the star chefs who have helped fuel its growth.
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Wasl Square Explore the boutiques and cafés in one of Dubai’s most popular neighbourhoods
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front CAPE TOWN: Chef Maryke Josling shares her favourite places to eat in South Africa’s second city DUBAI: A food truck hoping to drive Dubai’s pop-up culture on to greater things
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CALENDAR
July 4 to 6, Silverstone, UK
FORMulA 1 BRITISH GRAND PRIX
July 4, USa
Independence Day Independence Day, or the Fourth Of July as it is commonly known, is the National Day of the United States and a federal holiday that celebrates the adoption of the Declaration Of Independence, which severed the 13 American colonies from British rule and allowed them to form the United States of America. Independence Day is usually celebrated with patriotic parades, festivals, concerts and large firework displays.
This year marks the 50th anniversary of the British Grand Prix held at the Silverstone track, with British drivers Lewis Hamilton – currently enjoying a successful season – and Jenson Button sure to be crowd favourites. formULa1.com
July 5 to 27, england, Spain, Belgium and france
Le Tour de France
Arguably the world’s most gruelling and controversial cycle race, the Tour de France covers a total distance of 3,656km, broken up into 21 stages. The stages are divided into nine flat stages, five hill stages, six mountain stages and one individual time trial, with this year’s tour featuring nine new cities. The cyclist who records the fastest individual time after each stage wears the iconic maillot jaune or ‘yellow jersey’. LeToUr.fr
July 4 to 13, calgary, canada
CAlGARy STAMPEDE
The calgary Stampede is a 10-day event held annually since 1912. It features a tournament-style rodeo with more than US$2 million in prize money, making it the most lucrative rodeo in the world, as well as a derby, parade and aqua ranch. The festival also features performances from both country and contemporary musicians, with country music superstars Shania Twain and Keith Urban set to headline this year. cS.caLGarySTamPede.com
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J U LY
CALENDAR
July 9 to 13, Chicago, USA
July 6 to 14, Pamplona, Spain
TASTE OF CHICAGO
Held annually in Grant Park, the Taste Of Chicago festival is the world’s largest outdoor food show. As well as a wide array of food, Taste Of Chicago offers up various musical acts and other entertainment. CITYOFCHICAGO.ORG
Fiesta De San Fermin The Encierrro or ‘running of the bulls’ is the most popular event of Spain’s annual San Fermin Festival. Starting at eight o’clock in the morning, and lasting between three to five thrilling minutes, the bulls chase the runners for 825 metres before entering the bullring. BULLRUNPAMPLONA.COM
July 11 to 13, Ulan Bator, Mongolia
NAADAM FESTIVAL
July 11 to 13, Rotterdam, Holland
North Sea Jazz Festival Since its inception in The Hague in 1976, the North Sea Jazz Festival has been an annual fixture on the international festival calendar. The festival moved to Rotterdam in 2006 to accommodate the growing number of festivalgoers, estimated between 65,000 and 70,000 in the past few years. This year’s festival will feature 150 acts, including Robin Thicke, Stevie Wonder, Pharrell Williams, Joss Stone and Outkast. NORTHSEAJAZZ.COM
Skypod
Aziza Brahim page 44 24
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Naadam Festival is Mongolia’s largest holiday. A lively parade of monks, soldiers, musicians and Mongolians in traditional dress open the festival, before giving way to competitions in Mongolia’s most popular sports: horse racing, archery and wrestling. The festival provides an excellent showcase for Mongolian culture, cuisine and history. DISCOVERMONGOLIA.MN
48 I 56 I 63 I 70 I 77 I 88 I 101 I 105 I 121 I 125 I 135 I 155
M/Y Flicka
E. gci@gulfcraftinc.com T. +971 6 7406060
M/Y Pearl
J u ly
CALENDAR
July 18 to August 31, Salzburg, austria
SAlZBuRG FESTIVAl
Since its establishment in 1920 the Salzburg festival has become an important international showcase for opera, theatre and concerts. Set in the picturesque city of Salzburg, last year’s festival was attended by 286,301 visitors with 280 events spread over 14 venues. SalzBuRGeRfeSTSpiele.aT
July 13, Rio De Janeiro, Brazil
2014 FIFA World Cup Final The finale of the 2014 FIFA World Cup will be held at the Estádio Jornalista Mário Filho, more famously known as the Maracanã, in Rio De Janeiro. Boasting a capacity of 73,531, the stadium was last used for a World Cup final in 1950, when Brazil were beaten by two goals to one by Uruguay. fifa.com
July 18 to 27, Boom, Belgium
TOMORROWlAND
Touted as ‘the’ electronic music festival, Tomorrowland has become a focal point for electronic music in just ten years. Renowned for its vivid, fantasy-themed sets and stages and pyrotechnic displays, the festival will be held over two weekends. With more than 400,000 tickets sold this year, Tomorrowland is set to be the biggest yet, with performances from electronic heavyweights carl cox, martin Solveig, Steve aoki, Benny Benassi and David Guetta.
July 18 to 24, Boryeong, South Korea
Boryeong Mud Festival
TomoRRoWlanD.com
Every year thousands of people flock to the seaside town of Boryeong to participate in its Mud Festival. Originally intended as a marketing promotion to boost awareness of the use of Boryeong’s mineral rich mud for cosmetic purposes, the festival has taken on a life of its own, growing in size every year. Events include mud massages and baths, mud cosmetics seminars and mud wrestling competitions. BoRyeonGmuDfeSTival.com
Mapped
auckland page 55 26
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J u ly
CALENDAR
July 12, alice Springs, australia
CAMEl CuP
The camel cup began when Noel Fullerton challenged his friend, keith mooney-Smith, to a camel race in a letter to the editor of the alice Springs local newspaper in 1970. The two-man camel race down the dried up Todd riverbed proved to be so entertaining to the locals of alice Springs that it was then adopted as an annual fundraising event for local charities. it has been going ever since, attracting both australian and international Riders. camElcuP.com.au
July 23 to August 3, Glasgow, Scotland
20th Commonwealth Games Glasgow successfully beat Abuja, Nigeria, in its bid to host the 20th Commonwealth Games. Featuring 261 sporting events across 17 disciplines, as well as 22 para-sport events, teams from 70 countries will attend the games. GlaSGow2014.com
July 25 to 27, Niigata Prefecture, Japan
FuJI ROCK FESTIVAl July 24 to 27, San Diego, uSa
Comic-con International This year marks the 45th anniversary of Comic-Con International, an annual comic book and multi-genre entertainment convention held at the San Diego Convention Center. The convention features a wide range of workshops, panels and seminars run by comic book professionals, as well as previews of upcoming films, comics and video games and award ceremonies. Comic-Con also provides a showcase for short and feature length films through the ComicCon International Independent Film Festival. comic-coN.oRG
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Each year Naeba Ski Resort, in Niigata, Japan, is home to the Fuji Rock Festival. Roughly 75 minutes away from Tokyo by train, the venue provides some stunning scenery, with forests and streams separating the various stages. comprising more than 200 musical acts, it is Japan’s largest outdoor music festival, welcoming more than 100,000 guests. Headline acts for Fuji Rock this year include Basement Jaxx, arcade Fire, Franz Ferdinand, Jack Johnson and The Flaming lips. FuJiRock-ENG.com
July 1 to 16, Istanbul, turkey
Istanbul Jazz Festival Istanbul Jazz Festival director Pelin Opcin has been involved with the city’s annual celebration of jazz for 15 years, and she says that the event is not just for aficionados What is the festival about? It is one of the leading events on the Turkish music calendar. It is organised by Istanbul Foundation For Culture And Arts (IKSV), the most established culture and arts operator in Turkey, which has been running for 42 years and has served as a platform to bring jazz and related genres to the masses for 20 years. Taking place in the first half of July, the festival features jazz, pop, rock and world music performances in different venues across Istanbul. Where are the performances held? Venues are a key element of a full festival experience, and we have a daring approach to venue
selection. The festival reaches beyond traditional concert halls to Istanbul’s historical sites, streets and avenues, trams and ferries, so as to reach a wider audience. This year we have performances at beautiful seaside mansions such as Feriye Ortaköy and Sepetciler Kasri, several cultural heritage buildings and sites such as Istanbul High School, Bogazici University, the picturesque gardens of the Austrian Consulate and Sabanci Museum. Who will be performing at this year’s festival? The highlights of the festival this year are Katie Melua and Hugh Laurie with his Copper Bottom Band. Both are first-timers for
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Turkish audiences. Of course Chick Corea and Stanley Clarke’s special duet project is also not to be missed. We also have a parallel event happening on July 15, which we are very proud of. For the first time in Turkey we will be presenting Neil Young and Crazy Horse in Kucukciftlik Park. Are there any local musicians performing? Turkish jazz musicians are always essential to our festival. We especially like to present new projects from the local jazz scene, and we provide an opportunity for new collaborations and creations. For example, the club concerts series within the festival, European Jazz Club, features Turkish musicians and European soloists working in collaboration. Two other very important projects are Rumi Suite by Zulfu Livaneli, which fuses jazz, traditional music and poems of Rumi, and the Encounters With Masters project, featuring Azerbaijani jazz musician Salman Gambarov (piano) along with masters from Turkey, including Yildiz Ibrahimova (vocals), Önder Focan (guitar), Senova Ülker (trumpet), Fatih Ahiskali (oud) and Ferit Odman (drums), who will perform a magnificent fusion of jazz and music from the eastern world. What is special about this year’s festival? This year we have a strong emphasis on new discoveries for Turkish audience and we’ll be exploring the concept of ‘what’s next’ in the jazz world today. We have a strong line-up of rising stars such as Kellylee Evans, Derrick Hodge, Cecile McLorinSalvant, Darcy James Argue’s Secret Society, Jon Batiste, Thomas Enhco and Rusconi. We also have the Jazz At Parks event, which is a new series of free events. caz.iksv.org
Images: Istanbul Jazz FestIval
Calendar
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THE GRID June 11 to July 26 Day & Night Dubai, UAE
THE THREE BIGGEST EVENTS TAKING PLACE IN THE UAE THIS MONTH...
The Day & Night exhibition, held at Gulf Photo Plus in Dubai’s Art District, Alserkal Avenue, will feature abstract, landscape and portraiture. Alserkalavenue.ae
July 17 to 27 Ramadan Night Market Dubai, UAE
July 3 to 29 Ramadan Art Bazaar Abu Dhabi, UAE
Held at Dubai World Trade Center, the Ramadan Night Market is an 11-day festival featuring more than 400 shopping outlets. The market is open every evening during the month from 8pm to 2am. ramadannightmarket.com
Now in it’s seventh year, the Ramadan Art Bazaar, held at The Space in Abu Dhabi, brings together photography, painting and digital pieces from both local and international artists. The bazaar provides an opportunity for fledgling collectors, with all pieces selling for a capped price of Dhs4,000. levelevents.com
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the question
WHY DO WE DANCE? The beat kicks in, your feet start to tap, your head starts nodding, and before you know it you are up out of your seat throwing your arms around wildly. Well at least that’s how we like to dance. For others the waltz is preferable, some like to put metal on their shoes and tap, while a few can do a good impression of a robot throwing shapes. Dancing comes in all forms and is carried out to varying standards, but what makes us humans want to bop to that beat? For a start, we stimulate our brain’s pleasure centres; some believe that rhythmic movement activates some of these areas – essentially the reward sections of the brain. It is also surmised that sensory experiences are also motor experiences, and that is why adding music to the mix creates a doubly pleasurable experience. In 2006, The Public Library Of Science’s genetics journal featured an article suggesting that the ability to dance was actually connected to the ability to survive.
TWITTER Q&A Dubai Sports World explains itself in 140 characters of less
Our prehistoric ancestors used dance as a way to bond and communicate, particularly during tough times, according to the study. But if we take it back to the circle of life, Dr Peter Lovatt, principal lecturer in psychology at the University Of Hertfordshire, UK, has argued that dancing is to do with age, gender and genetic makeup. People dance for social bonding and to find a mate, it’s good for your health and fitness, and it’s enjoyable (for some). Then you have dances such as the Maori Haka, which is a show of strength and fearlessness. Whatever your reason for dancing, embrace your own style and don’t let anyone put you in the corner.
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@OpenSkiesMag: What is Dubai Sports World? @DXBSportsWorld: Dubai’s largest indoor summer sports venue offers diverse sports and an 11-week calendar of events, tournaments & academies. @OpenSkiesMag: How long will Dubai Sports World be open for? @DXBSportsWorld: Dubai Sports World is open from 11th June to 30th August. @OpenSkiesMag: What sports can people play and watch? @DXBSportsWorld: Everything from football, basketball, badminton, cricket, tennis, table tennis, skateboarding, a gym and a 600m track! @OpenSkiesMag: Is there a charge to use the facilities? @DXBSportsWorld: It varies. Badminton, the gym & others are free. One hour of 5-a-side football is AED300. For more info: www.dubaisportsworld.ae @OpenSkiesMag: Can anybody use your facilities? @DXBSportsWorld: All are welcome. The venue offers #allsportsallsummer for EVERYONE! @OpenSkiesMag: Tell us about the academies you run for six to 18 year olds. @DXBSportsWorld: There are all types of academies including football and basketball academies. @OpenSkiesMag: Do you have any events or competitions planned for July? @DXBSportsWorld: Football & basketball tournament finals, Skate & BMX Ramadan Jam, live World Cup screenings at The Majlis & more! @OpenSkiesMag: Sounds like a very busy month! Thank you very much for your time.
the street
Wasl Square, Dubai Words and images by Sandra Tinari
Wasl Square, in Dubai’s Al Safa district, beside the beachside neighbourhood of Jumeirah, is both a highly sought after collection of modern apartments and a haven for shoppers and foodies. The small but diverse community, adjacent to the sprawling garden oasis of Safa Park, hosts an eclectic collection of independent shops, restaurants and cafés. Entire days can easily be lost strolling the grounds of Dubai’s beautiful city garden, before taking a leisurely lunch in Wasl Square, topped off with a languid browse through its unique stores for some retail therapy to source one-of-a-kind gifts and edible treats. Al Safa and neighbouring Jumeirah are among the city’s oldest and most exclusive neighbourhoods, and this strip of the coast, with its upmarket shopping and large beachside villas, was once known as the ‘Beverly Hills Of Dubai’. But, thanks to the arrival of Wasl Square and Ripe Middle East’s Friday farmers’ market and café-cultural space The Archive (both closed for the summer) in Safa Park, this neighbourhood has joined others such as Jumeirah’s Beach Road, which now boasts several fashion boutiques and independent stores and cafés, and the industrial area of Al Quoz – now the city’s gallery hub – as an indie alternative to the city’s mega malls.
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The Odd Piece Statement vintage home furnishings, iconic design pieces and eclectic accessories are The Odd Piece’s specialities. Stepping into the Wasl Square store, shoppers are enveloped in a riot of colour and exquisite designs, which include classics such as leather Barcelona chairs and an Arne Jacobsen designed Swan sofa by Fritz Hansen. The boutique was founded by Saudi Arabian-born Arwa Hafiz, who left a career in journalism to pursue her passion for interiors. Arwa sources her items from across the world and started by collecting vintage pieces from the best dealers and artisans in Busta, Beirut’s unofficial antique quarter. She has trawled antique markets, souks and exhibitions in Turkey, France, Morocco and Italy, handpicking furniture and accessories. Items that are found in disrepair are redesigned by Arwa and then restored and refurbished by a master restorer in Beirut. Wasl Square, Al Safa, Dubai Tel: +971 4 3883733 the-oddpiece.com
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the street
Chez Sushi A UAE home-grown restaurant, founded by successful restaurateurs Raed Dabbous and Hiba Kosta, Chez Sushi focuses on being an easy-order sushi restaurant, offering dine in and home delivery. The restaurant’s ‘Let’s Roll’ mantra encourages customers to make their own maki and temaki rolls, choosing their own fresh ingredients, before seeing them expertly rolled by chefs at the open-plan sushi bar. A choice of brown or white rice, a variety of fish and seafood, vegetables and dressings mean that the possible combinations are almost limitless. For those less inclined to create a masterpiece of their own, Chez Sushi’s menu includes an extensive range of Bento
sets and sushi roll favourites and specialties, such as California rolls, spicy tuna maki and Philly temaki (salmon, cream cheese and cucumber). Healthy salads and hot meals, including a range of teriyaki, tempura and tataki dishes, are also available. Chez Sushi’s mochi ice cream, a Japanese desert comprising a light mochi (pounded sticky rice) outer layer surrounding an ice cream filling, is a must try in the heat of Dubai’s summer. Wasl Square, Al Safa, Dubai Tel: 800-78744 chezsushi.com
S*uce Gifts Appealing to the curious and nostalgic, S*uce Gifts, a lifestyle concept store from one of Dubai’s favourite contemporary fashion boutiques, is where art, design and quirky gifts intersect. Situated in the northern end of Wasl Square opposite Safa Park, S*uce Gifts offers a carefully curated selection of international and regional design pieces, customised collections and designer collaborations in a fun, gallery-like space, which has been designed to look like a town, complete with soaring electrical towers, miniature houses, a tree with its own unicorn and floating neon clouds. Relaxed, cheery creativity sits at the heart of the S*uce Gifts concept, and a smile inducing, eclectic assortment of gifts and unique interior design items happily sit side-by-side in the Wasl Square store. Neon art installations, ironic oversized night lamps and Cara Delevingne sketch t-shirts will please young design aficionados, while a vast array of notebooks, ceramics, candles, handmade kitsch accessories, retro inspired homewares and idiosyncratic crockery will brighten anyone’s day. For unforgettable souvenirs and one-of-a-kind gifts for loved ones and friends, S*uce Gifts is a treasure trove for those seeking an offbeat original. Wasl Square, Al Safa, Dubai Tel: +971 4 3463393 shopatsauce.com
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the street
Pantry Café Dominating the corner of Al Wasl Road and Al Hadiqa Street, the Pantry Café’s cavernous dining-hall sized space is abuzz with the chatter of diners from sunrise to sunset. Pantry Café serves breakfast, lunch, dinner and everything in between, and it’s focus on quality ingredients (organic where possible) and neighbourhood feel attracts food lovers, who appreciate fresh produce and the laidback atmosphere. The menu features dishes from around the world, including European breakfast classics such as eggs Benedict and a full English, Asian dishes such as Thai green curry and bakmi goring, locally inspired zaatar croissants, shakshouka and dukkah lamb chops and Wagyu beef tenderloin steaks and Canadian heritage Angus beef rib eye, which are popular choices among regulars. The open kitchen, a cook-toorder pizzeria and a beverage bar add to the lively feel of the café, which offers indoor and outdoor dining, as well as a take-out menu. Soft lighting, high ceilings and industrial touches – exposed brick and utilitarian-style fixtures and fittings – also add to the relaxed, community atmosphere. Wasl Square, Al Safa, Dubai Tel: +971 4 3883868 pantrycafe.me
Yamonate Atelier This Japanese bakery creates delicate pastries, savouries and sweet treats. A first-ofits-kind in Dubai, the bakery fuses the best of European recipes and baking traditions with the artful mastery of Japanese cuisine. Think
cutesy bunny and kitty custard cream buns, freshly made pain au chocolate and curry doughnuts (delicious deep fried butter doughnut rolls filled with minced beef curry). Under the watchful eye of Master Baker Kuni Maeda, Yamanote’s breads, pastries, cakes, croissants, sandwiches and sweet bakery items are all
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prepared on site with highquality, seasonal ingredients to preserve the purity and authenticity of the Japanese culinary culture. Wasl Square, Al Safa, Dubai Tel: +971 4 3881811 yamanoteatelier.com
I S TA N B U L
the street
Aces Shawarma House The innovative black and red interior at Aces Shawarma House has been designed to reflect the playing card towers we all loved to build when we were young; grabbing a bite to eat at the top of a house of cards makes for an interesting experience. Started by four Emirati brothers who shared a passion for good food and playing cards, Aces
Zurna The lively, modern design of Zurna’s first Dubai restaurant belies its commitment to serving traditional Turkish food as authentic as you’d find in the streets of Istanbul and Ankara. With a kitchen led by Turkish chefs, Zurna offers the best of the country’s culinary heritage in a fun, cheerful environment, while palm trees, brightly strung coloured lights and lanterns also tempt diners to eat outdoors under the stars. The restaurant’s pomegranate tea is refreshing and healthy, while its baklavas – filled with apple or orange – have garnered an army of admirers. However, for Zurna, the name of which encapsulates
Shawarma House offers a variety of slow roasted meats, thinly carved and dressed in a selection of traditional sauces and spices before being wrapped in flatbread. Open from 10am to 10pm, Aces serves up 12 varieties of shawarma, in addition to falafel wraps, salads, baked potatoes and even sushi. Its novel seating space saver, coupled with graffiti clad walls makes for a fun fastfood dining experience. Wasl Square, Al Safa, Dubai Tel: +971 4 3387667 facebook.com/acesshawarmahouse
various meanings, from a welcoming invitation to dine in Arabic to a Turkish musical instrument and a kebab from the city of Adana in southern Turkey, mains is its centrepiece. From lunch until late, the restaurant serves Turkish favourites, starting with cold mezze, which in line with tradition is laid out on a central table with a wide tasting selection. Hot mezze, more than 12 different styles of beef, lamb and chicken kebabs, and a variety of baked pide (traditional dough pastry with a variety of toppings, particularly cheese) are also offered. Wasl Square, Al Safa, Dubai Tel: +971 4 3285043 zurna.ae
Book Munch Café And Bookstore Shelves of handpicked books, lovingly created comfort food, such as chicken schnitzel, burgers and ricotta and pumpkin cheesecake, and a sense of community are Book Munch’s stock in trade. Launched with the belief that there is nothing better than curling up with a good book and a plate of homecooked food, Book Munch has attracted a firm following of likeminded book lovers and foodies. The family-focused team runs weekly children and baby reading sessions led by a team of volunteer readers, while other regular events include book clubs and book signings. Wasl Square, Al Safa, Dubai Tel: +971 4 3884006 bookmunchcafe.com
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skypod
AZIZA BRAHIM Genre: Folk/desert blues AGe: 37 City: Barcelona
Aziza Brahim was born in a refugee camp on the border of Algeria and Western Sahara. Her lyrics aim to raise awareness of issues surrounding the region. Now living in Barcelona, the folk singer and actress has just released her fourth album, Soutak. She shares her favourite tracks
01.
02. 03. 04.
Bob Marley Exodus
Dahmane El Harrachi Ya Rayah
The issues are so current it could have been written yesterday, but it was written in 1976. I wonder if Bob Marley was inspired by the images of my people’s moving, because our exile began around that time. I love the Exodus album so much.
The Algerian chaabi singer sings an ode to immigrants all over the world. I also love the cover by Cheb Khaled, Faudel and Rachid Taha, which brings a bigger instrumentation, mixing lute and violins.
Salif Keita & Cesarea Evora Yamore They call Salif Keita the ‘golden voice of Africa’. This is a perfect example of musical and cultural fusion: Malian and Cape Verdean cultures joined in a multilingual song that expresses the power of love as a means to fight and resist.
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Aretha Franklin Respect When sung by its writer, Otis Redding, this soul song was the symbol of a social movement. But Aretha Franklin’s interpretation is even bigger. The brass section and the chorus cheer me up immensely.
05. 06. 07.
08.
Ali Farka Touré & Ry Cooder Diaraby A traditional Bambara song about unwise love, arranged by the absolute king of the desert blues style. The addition of Ry Cooder’s guitar gives the song a universal feel.
Malouma Jraad
Jimi Hendrix Voodoo Chile
Big Mama Thornton I’m Feeling Alright
A beautiful example of the Mauritanian blues with such basic instrumentation: just guitar, drums and that fantastic voice.
Jimi’s lyrics are very mysterious and poetic, and I love the wahwah effect that runs throughout the piece. A song that opened up paths that are still not often walked today.
What a voice! She sang the blues, and it’s a shame that she is still mostly unknown, as she had a splendid talent. The world would be a better place if more knew of Big Mama Thornton.
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aziza-brahim.blogspot.ae
the Room
TExT: GaRETH REES iMaGES: THE DUDE, BERLin
ROOM 44
THE DUDE, BERLin
The Dude is as cool as its name suggests, but the boutique property eschews the hipster shabiness to be found in trendy neighbourhoods such as Kreutzberg, instead opting for classic style. Located in the central Mitte district, a short distance from landmarks such as Alexanderplatz and The Fernsehturm television tower, the hotel is housed in an attractive 30-room property built in 1822. The Dude sits on a quiet side street and operates more like a private members club than a hotel. Throughout our stay, the small staff was friendly but never intrusive, and the hotel has a preference for thoughtfulness, exemplified by the selection of Berlin-themed books in the lobby, over showiness. But The Dude does everything in style. The Brooklyn, a classic American cocktail bar and steakhouse, takes care of dinner, while the diner-style Brooklyn Burger Bar and small adjoining breakfast room with its superb coffee have the other two main meals covered. Our Senior Double room, furnished sparingly but stylishly with a red leather arm chair, comfortable cast iron and brass double bed, crisp sheets, gold cornicing, dark wood floors and bright blue statement wall, looked out over the street and was the epitome of understated elegance. thedudeberlin.com
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INTERNET: Free Wi-Fi PILLLOWS: Two (more available on request) BED SIZE: Double COMPLIMENTARY SNACKS: Licorice and red wine TOILETRY BRAND: Molton Brown EXTRAS: Mini Moleskine notebooks TV CHANNELS: 50 VIEW: 2/5 BURGER DELIVERY TIME: 45 minutes RATE: EUR159 (US$215) to EUR239 (US$325), depending on the season
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THREE NEW HOTEL OPENINGS
ONE & ONLY
Hayman Island, Australia
Set against the stunning backdrop of Australia’s Whitsundays, the One & Only, on Hayman Island, opens on July 1. Formerly known as The Hayman, the resort was taken over by Kerzner International Holdings in September 2011 and has undergone extensive renovations. The hotel has 160 rooms and boasts spectacular views of the Great Barrier Reef. hayman.oneandonlyresorts.com
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THE BRANDO
Tetiaroa, French Polynesia
This luxury resort opens on the atoll of Tetiaroa in French Polynesia – formerly the home of acting legend Marlon Brando – on July 1. With an emphasis on carbon neutrality, solar panels provide the resort’s hot water and half of it’s energy, with a biofuel power station providing the other half. The resort features 35 villas and two Polynesian-inspired restaurants. thebrando.com
X2 RIVER KWAI RESORT Kanchanaburi, Thailand
Comprising eight rooms and nestled on the banks of the Kwai Noi River, the X2 River Kwai Resort adopts an unusual industrial chic design, using concrete and panelled wood for the interiors of the rooms with the exteriors resembling shipping containers. x2resorts.com/resorts/river-kwai
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consume Albums
FUTUROLOGY The Manic Street Preachers
Alternative rock Described as “furious, propulsive and expansive” by the Welsh trio, the Manic Street Preacher’s 12th studio album is inspired by the band’s travels through Europe. The album features a number of guest artist, including German actress Nina Hoss and Welsh singer-songwriter Georgia Ruth Williams.
1000 FORMS OF FEAR Sia
Pop Sia Furler’s sixth studio album will feature lead single Chandelier as well as ten other tracks, including Elastic Heart, which was recorded for the Hunger Games: Catching Fire soundtrack.
TROUbLE In PARAdISE La Roux
synthpop La Roux return with a follow up to their Grammy Awardwinning self-titled debut. Trouble In Paradise is expected to incorporate more instruments and acoustic sounds.
ISOLATE And MEdICATE Seether
Post-grunge/Alternative metal South African quartet Seether recorded their sixth and latest album in a mere 16 days, calling the record an “evolution” in their sound, showing development and “maturity”.
books
THE LISTEnER Tove Jansson
Fiction The Listener is a posthumous collection of short stories by Finnish author Tove Jansson. Most famous for her Moomin books for children, The Listener will commemorate Jansson’s 100th birthday.
nEIL ARMSTROnG: A LIFE OF FLIGHT Jay Barbree
biography Drawing on notes, Nasa spaceflight transcripts and numerous interviews with Neil Armstrong, Jay Barbree writes a very personal account of the astronaut’s life and love of flight.
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CAPE COd MOdERn Peter McMahon & Christine Cipriani
Architecture A look into the stories behind the architectural hotbed of avant-garde homes built on Cape Cod since the 1930s.
consume THE BOOKSHOP
The Book Lounge Cape Town, South Africa Questions: Andrew Birbeck / Answers: founder of The Book Lounge, Mervyn Sloman
IMAgeS: LIeSL JoBSon
BOOK LOVER / The Book Lounge’s founder Mervyn Sloman takes satisfaction in introducing customers to his favourite books
The Book Lounge opened back in 2007. What’s been the greatest challenge since selling that first book? Never-ending paperwork and admin. That, and dealing with around 50 different book suppliers. It all takes a lot of time. You have a reputation for great coffee. How does the café enhance the bookstore? I wanted to create a space in which people feel comfortable to sit, browse, talk and debate. You need good coffee to do that. It’s essential. How healthy is the South African literary scene and what do you do to promote local writers? The scene’s thriving in terms of the number of wonderful books, both fiction and non-fiction, published each year. It’s less healthy if you look at sales figures nationally and compare those to other similar countries, or so I’m told. We run an absurdly diverse programme of events at The Book Lounge, constantly talk to readers about local books, and of course there’s the Open Book Festival. What do you hope to achieve with the Open Book Festival? Open Book enables us to build on all the events we run at the store. The scale of what you can do in a festival is much greater than what you can achieve in a single bookshop. There are four main aims: to put on a truly international literary festival in Cape Town, to promote the best of South African writing to international audiences, to build a love of reading among the youth of Cape Town and to attract as diverse an audience as possible. You also set up libraries in schools. Where do the books come from? We encourage our customers to buy books for school libraries from a selection that we put together, publishers make donations, we organise various fundraising events and, when possible, The Book Lounge donates books, too. On that note, if anyone out there would like to help out, drop us a line at booklounge@gmail.com. What are you reading at the moment? A wonderful novel, An Imperfect Blessing, by Nadia Davids, which we’re launching, as well as dipping into a collection of essays by Geoff Dyer, who is one of the authors joining us for Open Book this year. If you were marooned on a desert island and could have just one book, what would it be? One that we’re launching at The Book Lounge the following week in the hope that I’d be rescued and brought back in time for the launch. Have you ever written a book or do you plan to at some point? No. I’d love to, but don’t know if I have it in me. Finally, what’s the best part of your job? Putting a book into a customer’s hand and saying, “Read this,” knowing that they’re going to love it. booklounge.co.za
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BLD
Cape Town
IMage: JaSON aTHeRTON
Maryke Josling, chef and owner of The Little Pink Chef, reveals her favourite places to eat in Cape Town
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BREAKFAST
LUNCH
DINNER
A very trendy restaurant with a large breakfast menu that has something for everyone, Le Venue is the restaurant at the House of JC Le Roux, leading home of sparkling wine in South Africa. I love to sit on the patio indulging in the vineyard breakfast, which boasts truffle-scented scrambled egg, pesto button mushrooms, fried cocktail tomatoes, candied strips of meat, mini rosti and chipolatas. A glass of bubbles helps add to the occasion, but there are plenty of drinks and options to suit all tastes. This really is the place to come to kick off your day in a special way.
Mariner’s Wharf is the first harbour front emporium in Africa, and The Wharfside Grill is regarded as one of Africa’s best seafood restaurants. It seats more than 350 people, but private booths are available for those seeking a bit of privacy. With fresh lobsters, prawns and other great dishes it’s little wonder they need to seat so many. It’s particularly good for families, and I love the atmosphere on a Sunday when locals and visitors relax at the end of the weekend. An added bonus is the incredible scenery, and watching the harbour while indulging in the freshest seafood is an absolute must.
Pierneef à la Motte is traditional South African cuisine with a modern twist, all washed down with exceptional wine. The interior is beautiful and the ambiance nostalgic, but it’s all about the attention to detail, not just in the food but the service as well. The menu changes with the seasons, but I love the smoked and pickled lamb’s ‘soutribbetjie’ with creamed corn and summer peas. Vegetarians are also looked after, and the textures of fennel from root to tip is a must try. If you are looking for something intimate and exclusive, try Pierneef`s Chef’s Table – it gives a wonderful insight into the kitchen.
Le Venue JC le Roux estate, Devon Valley road, Stellenbosch, South Africa Tel: +27 (0) 21 865 8200 levenue.co.za
The Wharfside Grill Hout Bay Rd, Cape Town Central 7806, South Africa Tel: +27 (0) 21 790 1100 marinerswharf.com
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Pierneef à la Motte Franschhoek 7690, South Africa Tel: +27 (0) 21 876 8800 la-motte.com/experience/pierneef
MAPPED SEDAWATTA
Princes Wharf 03
04
St Marys Bay
06 09 06 11 10 12
Ponsonby
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Auckland
Mechanics Bay
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Freemans Bay
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Grafton 16
Eden Terrace
Auckland
Hotels: 1. Hotel DeBrett (-36.846875, 174.767004)
Restaurants: 5. The Sugar Club (-36.848358, 174.762182)
Bars: 9. Xuxu (-36.845114, 174.767826)
Galleries: 13. The Auckland Art Gallery (-36.851353, 174.766237)
Zealand’s largest city is a hive of activity offering astonishing natural scenery. Thanks to Auckland its 2. SKYCITYNew Grand Hotel 6. Ostro 10. The Britomart Country Club 14. The Museum (-36.849193, 174.762265) (-36.844279, (-36.844804, 174.768736) (-36.860384, 174.777822) Pacific positioning, the city is host174.768831) to a diverse populace and waves of spice-laden restaurants, which send plumes of delicious 7.scents got global pedigree, but Auckland also Gallery 3. Hilton Auckland Hotel Sidart wafting into the streets. It’s 11. The Roxy 15. Gow is Langsford (-36.850374, 174.765634) (-36.839715, 174.765902) 174.74408) (-36.845671, 174.767041) the place to discover New(-36.848209, Zealand’s own heritage: from art museums that showcase Maori treasures to bars that 4. Mollies Hotel (-36.842926, 174.741063)
serve exceptional locally made wines, you’ll quickly fall in love with the Kiwi16. lifestyle. 8. The Grove 12. 1885 Britomart Two Rooms Gallery (-36.846680, 174.763683)
(-36.844737, 174.768383)
(-36.862810, 174.750145)
HOTELS
RESTAURANTS
BARS
GALLERIES
01. Hotel DeBrett 02. SKYCITY Grand Hotel 03. Hilton Auckland Hotel 04. Mollies Hotel
05. The Sugar Club 06. Ostro 07. Sidart 08. The Grove
09. Xuxu 10. The Britomart Country Club 11. The Roxy 12. 1885 Britomart
13. The Auckland Art Gallery 14. The Auckland Museum 15. Gow Langsford Gallery 16. Two Rooms Gallery
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mapped
HOteLs 01 Hotel DeBrett Swanky Hotel DeBrett is the city’s go-to boutique hotel. An eye for design makes for colourful, Kiwi kitsch rooms, while its trendy Housebar serves some of Auckland’s best pours. After hours, guests can relax in the 24-hour Drawing Room. hoteldebrett.com 02 SKYCITY Grand Hotel After a room with a view? The SKYCITY Grand Hotel, adjacent to Auckland’s tallest structure, the Sky Tower, offers first-class vistas of the sprawling city and its glittering harbour. Save time for a dip in the heated pool before heading out to explore. skycityauckland.co.nz 03 Hilton Auckland Hotel Given that it occupies a wharf that reaches 300 metres into the harbour, water is the theme at the Hilton Auckland Hotel. Rooms share the aquamarine look, while the pool, suspended four storeys up, has an underwater viewing window. 3.hilton.com 04 Mollies Hotel In the heart of plugged-in Ponsonby, Mollies Hotel is a boutique retreat that excels in romantic touches. Suites are fitted out with tasteful antiques, and many have private balconies; the courtyard gardens and terrace bar follow the outdoor theme. mollies.co.nz
BIG CITY / Auckland is the largest city in New Zealand
restaurants 05 The Sugar Club On floor 53 of the Sky Tower, The Sugar Club’s art deco stylings and fusion menu are good enough to distract guests from the views. Helmed by celebrity chef Peter Gordon, the global menu offers juniper-cured venison alongside coconut laksa. skycityauckland.co.nz 06
Ostro Once a home for vagrant sailors and now a burgeoning culinary hub, the Britomart precinct’s Seafarers Building houses sleek Ostro. Overseen by Michelinstarred Josh Emett, the
02
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restaurant offers smart brasserie fare to be enjoyed inside or on the terrace. britomart.org/ostro 07 Sidart One of the finest in New Zealand’s crop of accomplished chefs, Sid Sahrawat has earned stunning reviews for inventive Sidart. An ever-evolving tasting menu of local ingredients treated with molecular flair is a testing ground for his wide-ranging imagination. sidart.co.nz 08 The Grove The Grove is undoubtedly one of the key pioneers in modern New Zealand cuisine. Decorated chef Ben Bayly helms this Auckland fine dining destination. Expect elegant plates like roasted partridge with sweetbreads and fig alongside a 250-bottle wine list. thegroverestaurant.co.nz
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GaLLErIEs 13 The Auckland Art Gallery Home to a staggering 15,000 works, the Auckland Art Gallery is officially the biggest in New Zealand. Spanning the 11th century to the present day, the collection also includes major works from Maori and Pacific Island artists. aucklandartgallery.com
09 Xuxu Taking a cue from Auckland’s international scene, beguiling Xuxu serves cocktails and snacks inflected with Vietnamese flavours. Sneak into this intimate den and opt for a Not So Old Fashioned, which blends dark rum with palm syrup and grapefruit. xuxu.co.nz 10 The Britomart Country Club The Britomart Country Club, New Zealand’s largest garden bar, lives up to its name with an on-site putting green, pétanque court and plenty of room for lounging. The relaxed daytime vibe transforms into a DJ-led party after dark. britomartcountryclub.co.nz
12 1885 Britomart With a main bar, martini bar, open-air veranda, basement cocktail bar and live music venue, 1885 Britomart is effectively a complex of different nightlife destinations. Night owls can pick and choose, or sample them all in one evening. 1885.co.nz
15 Gow Langsford Gallery A leading voice in Auckland’s contemporary art scene, the Gow Langsford Gallery showcases both New Zealand and international artists. While painting and sculpture are a particular focus, the gallery also displays crafts, photography, and more. gowlangsfordgallery.co.nz 16 Two Rooms Gallery Located within a converted warehouse, Two Rooms Gallery is more expansive than its name suggests. A centre for avant-garde contemporary art, the space shows local and global artists in its minimalistic Long Room and Project Room. tworooms.co.nz
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The Roxy Home to an elegant theatre 100 years ago, these days The Roxy is best known for its open-air bar. One of the biggest and best in the city, its rooftop scene is further enhanced by smart drinks and international DJs. roxy.co.nz
14 The Auckland Museum In a heritage building within the pretty Auckland Domain gardens, The Auckland Museum explores the country’s dynamic past and present. Two thousand Maori artefacts, including a carved canoe, are a highlight, while the natural sciences collection examines New Zealand’s unique ecology. aucklandmuseum.com
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LOCAL KNOwLEDGE
Ghaf Kitchen
Restaurant industry veteran David O’Brien’s is determined to develop the pop-up dining concept in the UAE with his upmarket food van
G
haf Kitchen, a mobile kitchen in a restored 1962 Citroën van, is the first high-end restaurant on wheels to appear in the UAE, popping up at large public events to serve quality street food, at beach-side villas
Words by Danna Lorch
to cater parties, and helping creatives host meals in surprising locations from construction sites to warehouses. Ghaf launched at Dubai Street Night Art, an outdoor festival featuring 50 local artists, in early 2013, with the five-strong team setting up shop in an unassuming
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grocery store car park where a throng of 1,000 art lovers queued up to nibble on ‘posh’ fish finger sandwiches with mushy peas and homemade tartar sauce, prepared by executive chef Adrian Bandyk, who previously worked in a Michelin-starred restaurant in London and led the kitchen
LOCAL KNOwLEDGE
Gourmet Grub / Ghaf Kitchen aims to deliver a higher standard of fare than your average street food vendor
of Dubai’s well-established Rivington Grill. David O’Brien, Ghaf Kitchen’s director, is originally from London but, as former operations director of hospitality powerhouse Caprice Holdings, he oversaw openings of a number of famous UK franchises in Dubai, including The Ivy. He says that replacing his coat and tie
with jeans and an apron was risky but thrilling. “The three partners who started Ghaf Kitchen have considerable depth of experience in business and the restaurant and hospitality sector, both internationally and in the UAE, and we all share the same passion for food and entertainment,” he says. “Wanting to bring new
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concepts to UAE’s dining scene, we came up with the idea of a five-star restaurant on wheels – something that was a first for the city and a dining concept that delivers in an unexpected, intelligent and charming way.” Now David’s kids, who often help at Ghaf events, jokingly refer to him as “the van man”.
seabury report
THE NEW GATEWAY TO THE GULF
LOCAL KNOwLEDGE The name Ghaf is a clever cross-cultural word play. “In London, where I am from, ghaf is slang for a person’s home,” David explains. “The term also describes the Middle East’s native ghaf tree, which provided a source of shade and nourishment to Bedouins for centuries.” In hipster hot spots in London and Brooklyn, when the rents are too high to establish permanent venue, guerilla chefs often prove their resourcefulness with pop-up restaurants and ‘gourmet’ food trucks. But the pop-up concept is in its early stages in glamorous Dubai, which, while quickly becoming known as a restaurant city, is only just beginning to appreciate independent, bespoke restaurants and cafés. Unlicensed street food is not permitted, and Ghaf had to work closely with the authorities to refine and adapt the concept for the local market.
David discovered the Citroën H van, nicknamed panier à salade (salad basket) in France, rusting away in a field in Normandy, towing her to a specialist mechanic where she spent months being rehabilitated in a sort of car
The pop-up concepT is in iTs early sTages in glamorous dubai hospital, before ultimately making the journey to the UAE. “In a place that is known for it’s local people’s hospitality, we wanted to bring our metaphorical tent to people’s homes and absolutely needed a Citroën van to do it,” he says. The Citroën is kitted out with a space-efficient kitchen that is able to generate sit-down
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dinners served family-style to up to 50 guests, canapés for 150, or gourmet festival nibbles for major crowds. Menu highlights include a rich artichoke salad with truffle dressing, whole roasted sea bream, lamb rump marinated for 48 hours and served with black olives, mashed potatoes and fig jus, and an extravagantly creamy Eton mess for dessert. Although prep for some dishes, such as chopping and marinating, is done in a central kitchen, Ghaf stays away from cooking ahead of time, judiciously avoiding the bland catered event taste of large banquets. Whenever possible, produce is sourced locally and there is a real commitment to sourcing sustainable fish, free range chicken and grass-fed beef, big dinner / The Ghaf Kitchen team is able to prepare a sit-down dinner for up to 50 guests
LOCAL KNOwLEDGE
VAN MAN / David O’Brien found the Citroën H van that became Ghaf Kitchen in a field in Normandy
with as little lead time as possible from farm to table. A remarkable amount of the major legwork is done in the van — a whole fish can be cooked in a flash in the van’s blancher plate in less than eight minutes. As a foodie through and through, David is prone to eating 10 small meals a day, tasting everything that comes out of the kitchen, and he jokes that he doesn’t have to visit the gym because he drives the Citroën. “You have to pull it up for one and across for two and three. Don’t even try to reverse!”
Ghaf has served food in a number of odd locations
On its journey so far Ghaf has served food in a number of odd locations, including an alfresco multi-course meal to a Hollywood film cast on set in an isolated quarry in the middle of the Liwa Desert. “That was a logistical challenge that we ran like a military operation,” David recalls. “We had three vehicles going back and forth from Dubai at any given time to make it happen!” A few months ago the team served lunch in the middle of an active construction site to a group of the city’s style enthusiasts involved in the upcoming d3 Dubai Design District, a destination being constructed as a creative hub for the region’s rapidly growing design community. On a personal level David avidly visits galleries and museums and is drawn to the experimental, the spontaneous and the edgy. “Ghaf exists to collaborate with
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and support the UAE’s booming arts scene,” he says. It’s not unusual for the van to collaborate with enterprises such as local performance space The Fridge to incorporate entertainment by up-and-coming musicians into an event. At the restaurant’s recent formal launch in Dubai’s gallery hub Alserkal Avenue, while clearing salad plates, an opera singer disguised as a bustling waiter burst into unannounced song, serenading guests in flowery Italian. The pop-up venue was a bare bones warehouse, which had been festooned with crystal chandeliers and long tables brightened with refreshingly natural arrangements of bold flowers, and the experience had a bit of a Cinderella-at-the-ball feel to it, as before the stroke 12 the entire restaurant was disassembled and repacked into the Citroën, which disappeared into the starless night. ghafkitchen.com
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SOUND CITY
Arabic fusion guitarist Kamal Musallam describes how moving to Dubai enabled him to realise his dream of becoming a full-time musician Words by Kamal Musallam
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local band / Kamal produced The Gypsy Swing Project’s latest album, Paris-Dubai
y father is JordanianPalestinian and my mother is Lebanese, but I was born in Kuwait in 1970. In our house we had a lot of music, everything from Abba to classical Arabic music by Umm Kulthum, Asmahan and other legendary Arabic singers from the mid-20th century. Kuwait in the 1970s was a very happening place. It was like the Dubai of that time, full of expats and culturally diverse. My first instrument, at five years old, was an accordion, but my cousin, who was older than me, was playing the guitar, and I really wanted to play it too. So I got my first guitar at the age of eight, shortly before we moved to Jordan in 1979.
I lived in Jordan for the next 14 years, where I discovered jazz for the first time in university – first through trumpeter Miles Davis and then jazzfusion guitarists George Benson and Al Di Meola. Then, in 1994, I moved to Europe and I lived and studied for an MA in architecture in Switzerland and France. Following my MA, I worked as an architect in France, and then between Jordan and Lebanon. During this time I joined a very important ensemble in Lebanon led by a very famous artist called Ziad Rahbani. He was one of my heroes, and I thought, “Wow, I could also be a musician, perhaps even reach the same level.” A month later, I decided to pursue music full-time. That was in 1998. After I made that decision I went back to France to enhance
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my knowledge of jazz, production and the music industry. Then I came back to Jordan to work as a musician, but Jordan wasn’t ready for the kind of music I wanted to play and I didn’t want to back down and play covers to earn money. Dubai was really happening at that time; it had that cosmopolitan atmosphere that I was missing in Jordan. So I packed my bags and moved to Dubai in 2002. I had to work for the first year as an architect, but then I was chosen to open the first Abu Dhabi Jazz Festival in 2003. I made my first public appearance and released my first album, On A Jordan River’s Side. If you go to London or New York or Tokyo or Paris you will meet more great musicians, but the problem is that most musicians in
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these countries are diverse than Paris. You might not able to find work. In 2007 I built a They are stuck playing bump into small recording studio a few small places to an amazing at Al Qasba in Sharjah. make a living. That’s I set up the studio and sitar why I left France put out my second and and came back to third albums, Out Of plaYer in the Middle East. My City (2008) and an indian I thought I might Lulu (2009), on my suffer from the lack of restaurant own. All of the money musical infrastructure was generated through in the Middle East, musical work. I might but I would have more have had success in chance to create the America or elsewhere, music that I wanted to without but Dubai has enabled me to fund much competition. myself and create six albums to date The mix of different cultures of the music that I want to create. was also very interesting to me. I I have collaborated with Japanese am a fusion musician. I like jazz, I guitar manufacturer Ibanez to use elements from jazz, but I use produce two electric-acoustic guitars elements from many other genres bearing my name, which have the as well. Those genres of music don’t ability to play Arabic quarter tones; exist in Paris, but they might exist my latest album, HomeMade In Rome, in Dubai. You might bump into an is out now; and the first part of my amazing sitar player in an Indian biggest project to date, EastMania – a restaurant. That was really exciting collaboration with major jazz artists, to me. The scene was smaller but including Billy Cobham and Kai ethnically and culturally much more Eckhardt, featuring a modern fusion
of musical traditions from around the historical Silk Road, which aims to revive their missing links to Arabic music – will be released before the end of 2014. So it’s going pretty well. I don’t have the studio anymore, but I still have the record label and production company, K&G-KMAC, and I am very interested in producing other people’s work in Dubai and developing the sounds and musical identity of other local artists. I feel responsible for helping the industry here produce good music. In 2013 I produced Sikka Score 1 for the Sikka Art Fair organised by Dubai Culture, which featured 15 local bands. I also produced a straight ahead jazz record for Dubai-based jazz pianist Dwight Dickerson. Recently I have been working with gypsy jazz band The Gypsy Swing Project. We released their album, Paris-Dubai, in April 2014; it’s a very Manouche-orientated organic recording of nostalgic French songs. Now I am working with The Healer Twins. The twins are from Georgia,
local gig / Kamal performs with a flamenco dancer at popular Dubai arts venue The Fridge
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but they have been based in Dubai for more than 20 years. They are both from a medical background, but they are good singers – pop-fusion with a twist of rock and soul. I saw them play live at the Gulf Music Festival in March and we just clicked. I liked their energy and the fusion they were trying to achieve, and I really felt I should stand beside them and make their ideas sound better. We have started working on their first single, Snake In The Desert, which will be released this month. I am probably lucky that I chose to work with these girls, because they have just been chosen to play a small part in the upcoming Star Wars movie. It’s not that easy once you have created a record to put it out and promote it. We focus on our musicians playing live, which is also what I do personally. You have to play live a lot bespoke instrument / Jamal and Japanese manufacturer Ibanez created this guitar, which is capable of playing Arabic quarter tones
to create a buzz. I am focus on what you do, There is one of the best-selling love it and keep doing a loT of local artists in Virgin it, then recognition Megastore in Dubai, and local will come. The trouble my music is available is that the majority of TalenT here musicians are focused on iTunes, Spotify and other sites, but the big solely on becoming in dubai audiences I have outside well known. But there of Dubai, in Indonesia, is no magic wand. You Korea, India and Italy, have to start building come from playing live. small successes. The local bands I work with Success comes from putting don’t have fans outside of the UAE yourself out there. I met George yet. With The Gypsy Swing Project Benson by chance when I was in we will start with the UAE and Indonesia at the Java Jazz Festival. then try and spread out through He started playing one of his the region. The Healer Twins, famous songs, This Masquerade, at because they have a pop sound, a jam session and I played oud. He might be able to attract an audience looked at me and said, “Oh my god, further afield. I think of all of what is this? I love what you did. these things when I’m working on We have to collaborate.” This was the production and composition. a huge moment for me. It proved Where are we taking this music? that music is universal. It doesn’t There is a lot of talent in Dubai, matter where it comes from, as and I’m trying as much as possible long as it’s coming from the heart to teach the younger generation of it will reach the heart. musicians here how to do it. If you There are plenty of opportunities for local acts in Dubai. There are annual events such as the Sikka Art Fair; Pizza Express in JLT welcomes local acts; Freshly Ground Sounds is an initiative that provides a platform for local musicians; The Fridge is a very important venue on Alserkal Avenue that has been promoting local bands for four years. The second Dubai Music Week, which was founded by Quincy Jones and partners in Dubai, will take place in September. It has performances but also conferences and seminars about many aspects of the industry. This year I am participating as the producer of the emerging artists stage. The purpose of this stage is to promote local up-and-coming musicians from all kinds of genres. Kamal’s sixth album, HomeMade In Rome, is out now
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The making of a culinary capital The story of Dubai’s emergence as a world-class foodie city
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vital statistics: What does it take to power The Dubai Fountain?
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DUBAI: THE MAKING OF A CULINARY CAPITAL
F O L L O W I N G A D E CA D E T H AT H AS S E E N DUBAI’S RESTAURANT SCENE MAKE A NAME FOR ITSELF ON THE WORLD STAGE, ITS R E P U TAT I O N S I S ST I L L G R O W I N G . T H E STA R N A M E S T H AT H AV E N U RT U R E D I T A R E B E I N G J O I N E D B Y A M U LT I T U D E O F C E L E B R AT E D C H E F S K E E N TO B E AS S O C I AT E D W I T H T H E C I T Y T H AT H AS B E C O M E T H E M I D D L E E AST ’ S F O R E M O ST D I N I N G D E ST I N AT I O N . TOP CHEFS, INCLUDING GARY RHODES, J AS O N AT H E RTO N , W O L F G A N G P U C K A N D HEINZ BECK, EXPLAIN TO JAMIE KNIGHTS WHY DUBAI IS THE PLACE TO BE
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rior to 2001, eating out in Dubai was an enjoyable experience, but the city couldn’t have claimed to be competing with the world’s greatest restaurants cities – culinary behemoths such as Paris, London, New York and Tokyo. The large expatriate population from the Indian subcontinent ensured that you could find some of the best Indian, Pakistani and Bangladeshi food in the world in the neighbourhoods of Deira, Karama and Bur Dubai. Veterans of the city’s food scene, such as Bur Dubai Iranian Special Ostadi Restaurant and Satwa Pakistani Ravi Restaurant, have been satisfying their loyal customers for more than 30 years. But these were local favourites; the city
had nothing that was grabbing the attention of the wider world. Then, in October 2001, Gordon Ramsay, now one of the most famous chefs in the world, thanks to his global restaurant empire, constant media presence and willingness to gamble (not always successfully) on an opportunity, opened Verre at Hilton Dubai Creek in Dubai’s Deira neighbourhood. It marked the awakening of Dubai’s culinary ambitions – a big name had landed. But, though the arrival of Verre was a landmark occasion for Dubai, Gordon Ramsay had commitments all over the world, and, understandably, wasn’t at the helm of the Verre kitchen. That responsibility fell first to Angela Hartnett, and, when she left to claim her own Michelin status back
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in the UK, Jason Atherton stepped up to the pass. Atherton, who had joined Gordon Ramsay’s team after working for big names chefs including Pierre Koffman, Nico Landenis, Marco Pierre White and Ferran Adria, had never worked as far away from home as the Middle East, but “decided to give it a go”. “The first six months was really tough and I nearly came home a couple of times ¬ I wasn’t really settling into the Middle East very well,” he explains. “Then once those six months had passed it was like my home, I loved it, absolutely loved the way of life, I loved the heat when everyone was complaining about it, I loved playing golf, my social life was getting better and better, my cooking life was going
jason atherton / The British chef ran Gordon Ramsay’s Verre a decade ago, and will open his own Dubai restaurant this year
through the roof and we just had a wonderful time.” But, even though this was barely a decade ago, Atherton’s Dubai no longer exists. The chef recalls that when he lived in the city, “there was desert from [the start of ] Sheikh Zayed Road all the way down to Emirates Golf Club”. Daily challenges included obtaining fresh supplies and training a multinational team, and, although Atherton was having “really good fun” and awards and recognition came his way, Dubai’s restaurant scene was still in its infancy. Atherton decided to return to London in 2004.
Another British star, Gary Rhodes, had been appearing at various food festivals in the city for some time, and he liked what he saw. Initially commitments in the UK kept his plate full, but despite this, his experiences in the emirate had “whet” his appetite for a restaurant in the “stunning city with a real wow factor”. It was the now complex general manager of Grosvenor House Dubai and Le Royal Méridien Beach Resort & Spa, Pam Wilby, who convinced him it was time to open a restaurant in the emirate. “We came over in 2006 to prepare and in 2007 we opened Rhodes
m o n e y i s a lw ay s a t r i c k y s u b j e c t, b u t a n y r e stau r at e u r w o rt h t h e i r s a lt k n o w s g o o d f o o d a l o n e w i l l n ot k e e p a r e stau r a n t a f l oat “At that point in time, high-class restaurants in Dubai were still not as high-profile as they are today, and not as high-profile as in London, and I felt that my career needed to come back to London,” he explains. As Atherton moved on to the next stage of his career in London, other prominent chefs had struck up their own relationships with Dubai.
Mezzanine in Grosvenor,” Rhodes says. “It was only Gordon Ramsay already in town, but he was a bit more out of town and he was a good 40-minute drive away and we had our own styles.” Rhodes was juggling commitments in the UK and Caribbean, and despite a real love of flying, the 10 trips each year to Dubai were proving
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costly. It made sense, he says, to relocate to Dubai, which he did in 2012. So the emirate was attracting top names, but in 2007 British chefs dominated the culinary scene. Then multi-Michelin-starred chef Pierre Gagnaire was approached by the then general manager of the InterContinental Dubai, whose “enthusiasm and his human qualities” immediately attracted Gagnaire to the idea of opening a restaurant in Dubai. One of the initial challenges was to introduce himself in a city that he felt was very British-oriented. “No one knew me and Gordon Ramsay was a star,” Gagnaire recalls. “I had my doubts over issues of getting the right products in that climate and was there a customer?” And his first impressions were “initially mixed”, as Reflets par Pierre Gagnaire at InterContinental Dubai Festival City opened at the height of the economic crisis in 2008. Dubai’s culinary scene had hit its first hurdle. Money is always a tricky subject, but any restaurateur worth their salt knows good food alone will not keep a restaurant afloat, and the financial crisis put the brakes on numerous names making the move to Dubai – largely due to the number of hotel projects that were shelved. Wolfgang Puck, like other star restaurateurs, was taking stock of what was viable, stating that there was “a bad tailspin” economically. With a host of restaurants in Las Vegas to look after, it was not the best time to plunge into a major oversees investment. Let’s not forget there was a genuine fear amongst many that the ‘Dubai dream’ may have turned into a nightmare. Of course, when you are moving to further your career, money is not as high on the checklist, as was the case for Gordon Ramsay-trained chefs Scott Price and Nick Alvis. Price
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young guns / Gordon Ramsaytrained chefs Scott Price and Nick Alvis ran Ramsay’s Verre before making their names with their own Dubai restaurant, Table 9 By Nick And Scott
pIerre gagnaIre / The French master opened his first Dubai restaurant, Reflets par Pierre Gagnaire, in 2008
was charged with running Verre in 2010, and he asked Alvis, who he had worked with at Gordon Ramsay’s Claridge’s restaurant in London, to come out and work with him. Alvis was in Dubai within two weeks. “When I arrived in Dubai much of the building and construction work had stopped, many buildings were only part built and it was a little eerie in a way,” Alvis recalls. “But I was excited to be here and not really phased by that. When I first moved here money was no object as I knew it was all about my career progression and my dream to run my own restaurant.” However, there comes a point when you start your own venture that economics becomes important. “As a chef you don’t start cooking to make money, it’s a passion,” says Price. “As you progress and improve your skills and knowledge and, hopefully, run a restaurant business, to succeed it’s ultimately
about making money, which is never an easy task.” When Ramsay closed Verre in 2011, Price and Alvis, backed by Hilton Dubai Creek, opened Table 9 By Nick And Scott, which brought something new to the Dubai restaurant scene. Over the next two years the highly successful Table 9 won numerous awards and was hailed as the first homegrown restaurant to make a name for itself beyond Dubai’s borders.
I dIdn’t come over here for t h e m o n e y, a n d w h at I l ov e I s the posItIvIty and the whole approach to restaurants out here
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“We created a very recognisable name in the UAE in a very short space of time, but to achieve our own personal goals of having our own restaurant was just not possible for various reasons, so we made the decision to leave at the end of last year to start developing other ideas for the future with [supermarket chain] Spinneys and Albwardy Investment,” Price explains. However, the true strength of Dubai is encapsulated in the commitment to investment, according to Rhodes. “I didn’t come over here for the money, and what I love is the positivity and the whole approach to restaurants out here,” he says “Even when things take a hit, it’s a case of ‘let’s refurb and reinvest’ – it’s very positive.” Rhodes cites Wilby as instrumental in fostering this positive attitude and the initiative to find the investment that keeps customers returning to his restaurants and allows him to tap into new audiences.
wolfgang puck / The AustrianAmerican celeb chef opened CUT By Wolfgang Puck at The Address Downtown Dubai in early 2014
With this attitude, Rhodes Twenty10 was launched in 2010 at Le Royal Méridien Beach Resort & Spa, offering a more relaxed alternative to the fine dining of Rhodes Mezzanine. Dubai certainly was one of the leading destinations in terms of speed of economic recovery, and it was this, along with a conversation with an Emaar executive in London, that persuaded Puck to seriously consider opening a Dubai restaurant. “I heard so much about it and thought I had to go and see what was going on, so I came out and thought it might be a good time to open as people were out and about and enjoying themselves,” he says. And it was this sense of fun he knew he could provide with his CUT By Wolfgang Puck brand at The Address Downtown Dubai. “We want people to have fun in our restaurants, it’s good food, good fun, rock and roll being played and I
i thought it would be hard to get good sta f f, b u t w e h av e f o u n d s o many young, talented people felt there was a great deal of synergy with what we were doing and what was happening in Dubai,” he says. And when it comes to assuring the quality of CUT By Wolfgang Puck, he has every faith in his longserving team, coupled with new members of staff. “I thought it might be hard to get good staff, but we have found so many young, talented people, and because of this even after just one month of opening people seem to really like and enjoy it. It feels like the place to go as
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people move from table to table talking to each other – it feels like a party.” Also new in town is one of Europe’s most respected chefs, Heinz Beck, who saw an opportunity when the Al Habtoor family asked him to open Social By Heinz Beck at their Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah property. “It is a very beautiful modern product with timeless elegance, and being on a landmark such as the Palm and being a resort in the city is wonderful,” he explains. Social By Heinz Beck is the latest stage of Beck’s international expansion plans, as his portfolio spreads from Italy, through Europe into the Middle East and eventually in Asia. In terms of the Middle East, Beck says Dubai is the city where “you have to be”. And he believes his brand of healthy cooking will certainly find its place, as he has been working with health and nutritional experts to create dishes that “make
gary rhodes / The British celebrity chef is the first high-profile chef to make Dubai home
your body healthier”. In a region that faces issues with diabetes, this is a welcome addition to the scene. “I think we have a found a nice way to present an Italian European way of healthy light cooking and it’s a good fit,” he says. “Having food that is easy to digest is important when you have such high temperatures outside.” Beck speaks to his team daily and will travel to the emirate at least once a month to oversee the progress of the restaurant. And speaking of progress, Price believes the culinary scene is not just growing, but developing, too. “When we first moved here there were very few people doing
their own thing as investors were not willing to take a risk on an unproven brand,” he says. “Now there are lots of places and concepts being created unique to the UAE, which I find very exciting and can only be a great thing for the food scene.” With the arrival of new worldclass chefs such as Heinz Beck and Wolfgang Puck, the broadening of Dubai’s culinary offering is clear for all to see, and while new names to the region seek to make their mark, old Dubai names are making their return. Jason Atherton will open in the upcoming InterContinental Dubai Marina, set to open in late 2014. Un-
Now there are lots of places aNd c o N c e p t s b e i N g c r e at e d u N i q u e to the uae, which i fiNd very e x c i t i N g a N d c a N o N ly b e a g r e at thiNg for the food sceNe
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beknownst to him, the hotel owners were big fans of his restaurant Pollen Street Social in London. “When building their own hotel they decided they wanted a Social in the hotel, and we started talks and away we went – I was always desperate to come back to Dubai,” he says. Atherton promises a “high octane” restaurant with lots of design elements, a DJ booth and strong bar programme. “There will be sharing food, which I think is a big thing in the Middle East, as well as a beautiful terrace, and it’s just going to be a very cool space to hang out,” he says, adding that he is looking forward to joining the other big names in the city. “Just at the weekend we ate at Wolfgang Puck, La Petite Maison – all these big name chefs. Pierre Gagnaire, Yannick Alleno. We ate at [Alleno’s Dubai restaurant] Stay, which was a wonderful meal. There are so many great chefs working in Dubai today that I am happy to join that
roster,” he says. “I’m just looking forward to being part of the Dubai culture again. I love the shopping, the beaches, the restaurants, the people and I think it is great we have many happy family memories in Dubai.” With rumours rife that Gordon Ramsay is planning his own re-entry into the Dubai marketplace, it seems that the growth of Dubai’s food scene is going to continue apace. As more names arrive it is surely time for the Michelin Guide to embrace this Middle East hub? Gary Rhodes believes so. “Michelin will eventually have to move in here simply and purely [because] as we grow we have other big name chefs [arriving],” he says. “It is a form of respect: here we are and with the right inspectors we can put Dubai truly on the culinary map.” But whether Michelin decides to cover the region or not, there is plenty of scope for Dubai’s culinary offering to progress. Alvis would like to see more chefs and restaurateurs “doing their own thing” with the “food scene being less restricted”. “We need more street food style and chilled places with great food, without the need to be in a glossy hotel,” he says. “With all of these young chef competitions in the city there is definitely some talent here which needs a little more recognition and the opportunity from their employers to express and develop their own ideas.” Price is in agreement and hopes Dubai’s ethos of being at the forefront of design and architecture “will transfer through into the designers and restaurateurs to really create some unique, amazing worldclass restaurants in the city heading into the future”. The pair is currently working on a new restaurant, The Taste Kitchen,
which aims to be open after Ramadan. For Atherton, it’s just a question of time before home-grown talent emerges. “In the next ten years there will be chefs who are going through the system right now who will come out the other side who will be big name UAE chefs, who will take the local cuisine to a whole new level, and I can’t wait for the day for that to happen,” he enthuses.
D u B a i Has i n c r e Di B l e l e a D e r s w H o wa n t to m a k e i t o n e o f t H e u lt i m at e c i t i e s i n t He w o r l D Rhodes has been involved with schools, attempting to engage and educate local and expat children alike. “It’s so exciting to see their responses to the demos, and they get to take home what they have made, so fingers crossed it will inspire them and it will develop,” he says. Gagnaire also believes the future is bright and has begun a new venture, a patisserie named Choix, in the city partly due to its “very positive energy”. “We’ve established our presence more in the recent months, and I foresee Dubai attracting more
Heinz Beck / The renowned European chef recently opened his first Dubai restaurant, Social By Heinz Beck, at the Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah
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people craving ‘cultures’ and gastronomy and this will become increasingly important and diverse,” he says. “Today, Dubai is booming and there are a variety of products now available in the market, customers are present and so new names are also coming to town.” Rhodes says in the next five years there “will be a great change”, and this will only escalate on the approach to Expo 2020. Around 80 new hotels will have been built by then, with plenty of opportunities for chefs to cement their names or achieve star status. Rhodes is already feeling energised and looking forward to Rhodes Mezzanine, which is currently closed for refurbishment, reopening in September as Rhodes W1. The cooking style is going to be 100 per cent British and offer something very unique to the Dubai scene, a scene reminiscent of “the old London”, according to Rhodes, referring to the early days of the boom of hot British talent that sent London to the peak of world gastronomy. “Dubai has incredible leaders who want to make it one of the ultimate cities in the world,” he says. “I really do believe [that], being in the centre of the world, Dubai can also become, long term thinking, a culinary capital. If we have enough chefs coming out here, Michelin will come out with one, two and three-stars and create a whole new audience. It’s a long road but we are on this road.”
VITAL STATISTICS: THE DUBAI FOUNTAIN
180
450
The height, in feet the fountain reaches, which is equivalent to a 45-storey building
Members of the permanent operations and maintenance team
125,241,025 Litres of water in Burj Lake at any given time
424
The total area, in metres, of Burj Lake, which is equivalent to three football fields
3,000 Project managers, engineers, architects and contractors involved in constructing the fountain
Ahmad Al Falasi, executive director – property management for Emaar Properties and Jean Hanna, director of operations, The Dubai Fountain, give Danna Lorch an insight into the hard work and impressive engineering that go into creating 13 shows a day, 365 days a year
365 Days per year The Dubai Fountain is operational
1 The Dubai Fountain is Dubai’s No 1 tourist attraction, according to Trip Advisor
6 Equipment rooms housing miles of cables
6,608 Lights in Burj Lake. There are 2,600 strobe lights
13 Shows per day
31 Shows in the fountain’s library
Where did the vision for The Dubai Fountain originate? AF: We wanted to create the tallest and largest fountain in the world in our city for everyone who visits or lives here to enjoy. We didn’t want to build a second Bellagio fountain, so we took the very latest technology, enhanced it and made it our own. What is your water source? Is conservation a major consideration? JH: We actually generate all the water from a sewage treatment plant that has been recognised for effectiveness in 50 countries. We treat and test the water – and it’s like a big swimming pool. What makes the fountain shoot so high into the air? JH: Depending upon the song being performed and how the fountain has been choreographed to dance, the water can fire up to 45 storeys into the sky. The performances are run from our manned control room. Three different types of shooters are positioned throughout the five rings that make up the fountain and are responsible for sending plumes up into the air, and we have close to 350 underwater robots called ‘oarsmen’ that create that graceful dancing effect across the lake. We collaborate with WET Design in LA to choreograph the actual performances. The elements of art and the science come together when the music begins to play. Fountains are a traditional design element in the Middle East. Do you consider The Dubai Fountain an expression of UAE heritage? JH: The elegant use of water, music and lights are certainly in reference to this Middle Eastern design principle. In addition to Lionel Richie, Michael Jackson’s Thriller and other top hits, the fountain alternates with Arabic songs, including one composed by HH Sheikh Mohammed entitled Sama Dubai, which was the fountain’s first performance when it opened back in 2009. What is your favourite time and place to watch a performance? JH: The best time to take it all in is at night, because you’ll get to enjoy the fog produced by some 10,000 nozzles and 2,600 strobe lights that create the effect of stars twinkling in the lake.
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Emirates A380 launches to Mumbai Daily A380 service to Mumbai starts this month
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briefing more choice when you travel: Increased frequencies to popular destinations city GuiDe: Our guide to the Norwegian capital Oslo routemap: Discover the world as connected by Emirates
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briefing
news New a380 service to MuMbai
eMirates wiLL expaND its a380 NetworK to 28 DestiNatioNs when
it launches a daily A380 service to Mumbai International Airport this month on 21st July. Emirates will also deploy larger Boeing 777s to Delhi and Hyderabad, offering more seats. EK 500, Dubai to Mumbai, and EK 501, Mumbai to Dubai, will be up-scaled to a three-class A380 aircraft, representing a capacity increase of 2,127 seats per week in each direction. The Emirates A380 operating on the Mumbai route will feature 14 private First Class suites, 76 Business Class lie-flat seats and a
spacious cabin for 399 Economy Class passengers. On board, passengers can experience a range of unique facilities in all cabins - from the famous Shower Spas in First Class, to the A380 Onboard Lounge where passengers in the premium cabins can relax in a social environment during the flight; as well as large touch screen LED personal TVs. Passengers across all cabins can enjoy up to 1,800 channels of the latest movies, TV shows and music from around the world alongside a range of games on the awardwinning ice inflight entertainment system. The latest technology
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allows passengers to stay connected throughout the flight with highspeed Wi-Fi access and mobile phone and data services. More than 25 million passengers have travelled on the Emirates A380 since it was first launched in 2008. Emirates currently has 50 A380s in service, more than any other airline globally, and continues to launch the aircraft to an expanding network of destinations. Upcoming A380 launches include Kuwait on 16th July, Frankfurt on 1st September, and Dallas on 1st October. The airline will also launch second daily A380 service to Moscow starting 1st August.
Your home in Dubai
• • • • • • • •
Located in the heart of Dubai Opposite Metro Station Walking distance to Burj Khalifa, world’s tallest skyscraper Dubai Airport - 15 min Abu Dhabi Airport - 45 min Walking distance to shopping malls Close to Business Hubs (DIFC and DWTC) Spa and Outdoor Swimming Pool
Sheikh Zayed Road, P.O Box 116957 Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 4 323 0000 | Fax: +971 4 323 0003 www.emiratesgrandhotel.com
briefing
news GREAT EnTERTAinmEnT foR younG flyERs
EmiRATEs is EnsuRinG CHilDREn ARE EnTERTAinED THRouGHouT THEiR TRip wiTH moRE CHoiCEs of EnTERTAinmEnT, and enhanced
children’s products on board. On board dedicated children’s channels on the popular ice entertainment system bring an array of cartoons, interactive games, podcasts and music. There are currently more than 60 children’s movies on ice
Digital Widescreen, including the entire Harry Potter series, a whole section dedicated to Disney Classics, plus more than 20 dedicated children’s television channels including CBeebies, Disney Junior, Cartoon Network and Nickelodeon. The latest musical stars such as One Direction, Justin Bieber and Katy Perry are all ready to entertain on the music channels.
Get to your gate on time Don't miss your flight Please make sure you get to your boarding gate on time. Boarding starts 45 minutes before your flight and gates close 20 minutes before departure. If you report late we will not be able to accept you for travel.
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During their flight young flyers can meet AirBoae and Oggie among the new cuddly Fly with Me monsters and explore activity-filled backpacks, including a dedicated children’s magazine, all provided on a complimentary basis. Aircraft also carry kids’ favourite meals, as well as vegetarian options. During the FIFA World Cup™ kids receive colourful snack boxes with cardboard cut-outs and stylish wrist bands in support of participating teams. Around 2.3 million youngsters travelled with the carrier in the last year, demonstrating the importance of catering to families. With this in mind, even before departure, complimentary baby strollers and changing tables are available within Emirates’ dedicated Terminal 3 in Dubai, and there are play areas equipped with toys within Emirates’ exclusive lounges. At the gate, priority boarding is provided to families with young children. Children even have their own frequent flyer programme, Skysurfers, where miles can be exchanged for free flights, toys, books and entry to attractions in Dubai.
briefing
news MORE CHOICE WHEN YOU TRAVEL EMIRATES HAS ANNOUNCED a
series of additional daily services to popular destinations including Singapore, Amman, Karachi and the Seychelles. From 1st August, Emirates will launch a third daily flight to Amman, a fifth daily flight to Singapore and a sixth daily flight to Karachi. The carrier is also increasing its operations to the Seychelles to a double daily service starting 28th October. The fifth daily service to Singapore will bring the total number of flights between Dubai and Singapore to 35 a week, with 28 non-stop services and seven
flights via Colombo, in addition to Emirates' daily services from Singapore to Brisbane and Melbourne. The new service, EK 352, will depart Dubai daily at 9.15pm and arrive in Singapore at 9am the next day. The return flight, EK 353, departs Singapore at 10.35am and arrives in Dubai at 1.45pm the same day. Emirates third daily service to Amman, Jordan, EK 905 will depart Dubai at 10.10pm and arrive in Amman at 12.15am. The return flight, EK 906, departs the Jordanian capital at 3.45am and arrives in Dubai at 7.45am.
To Karachi, the new sixth daily flight, EK 610 departs Dubai at 10:35pm and arrives in Karachi at 1.40am. The return flight, EK 611, departs Karachi at 3.10am and arrives in Dubai at 4.30am. For travellers to the Seychelles the introduction of two more flights per week from 28th October increases the existing 12 scheduled flights to 14, bringing operations to double daily. The Seychelles are a popular tourism destination, home to two UNESCO World Heritage sites: The Vallée de Mai, a natural palm forest home to the Coco-demer, and the wondrous Aldabra, the largest raised atoll in the world.
WOLGAN VALLEY CARBON NEUTRAL FOR FIFTH YEAR EMIRATES WOLGAN VALLEY RESORT & SPA, AUSTRALIA’S LUXURY CONSERVATION-BASED RESORT, has
achieved a carbon-neutral status for the fifth year in row. The rigorous and independent carboNZero recertification highlights the resort’s commitment to environmental issues and the ongoing management and reduction of emissions. A combination of initiatives carried out over the last year to combat carbon emissions included a strict tree-planting programme, the implementation of a dedicated internal ‘green team’ that acts on sustainable issues, and the newly launched Conservation Hour, which offers guests the opportunity to assist the resort’s
Field Guides with a variety of conservation activities, such as tree planting, surveying wildlife or constructing nesting boxes for birds and possums. Joost Heymeijer, general manager, Emirates Wolgan Valley Resort & Spa, said achieving carbon neutrality from the outset and maintaining it “proves that luxury and sustainability can go hand in hand”. “We are immensely proud of this achievement, which reinforces our long-term commitment to sustainability, and we certainly won’t be resting on our laurels,” he added. Heymeijer said the resort would continue to raise the bar through a range of new initiatives this year including “a complete
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transformation of the way we manage our waste as well as the rehydration of peat bogs underneath our wetlands to activate carbon that is locked up in the soil”. Located just 190km (or a 2.5 hour drive) from Sydney in New South Wales, in the Greater Blue Mountains World Heritage Area, the resort is set on a 4,000 acre conservation and wildlife reserve nestled between two national parks.
briefing
City Guide OSLO
HOLMENKOLLEN SKI MUSEUM & TOWER
Emirates will launch a daily service to Oslo on 2nd September. Enjoy our guide to Norway’s capital city
NESTLED bY THE WATER AND ExTENSIvE WOODLANDS, NORWAY’S CAPITAL CITY, OSLO, is perfect for
strolling around on foot, giving ample opportunity to take in the varied architecture, superb museums and vibrant nightlife. And the residents’ love of outdoor activities means there are plenty of things to do within the city limits, such as kayaking, hiking and sailing. While Norway itself is a relatively young country, the history of the region is captured in the wonderfully preserved ninth century Viking ships, which can be seen in the city’s Viking Ship Museum. And with 18 hours of daylight in the summer, there are plenty of parks in which to enjoy a barbeque before heading into town to indulge in the vibrant café and bar scene.
As Norway's most visited tourist attraction this spectacular ski jump was opened in 2010 and features the latest ski jumping technology and engineering. The start house is a dizzying 64 meters above the ground and its construction required 100 tonnes of steel. While the jump is worth the visit alone, inside the structure is the Holmenkollen Ski Museum, the oldest of its kind in the world. It details and highlights artefacts encapsulating more than 4,000 years of skiing history and polar exploration.
THE vIKING SHIP MUSEUM An absolute must visit, The Viking Ship Museum showcases 9th century Viking ships discovered in Gokstad, Oseberg and Tune, as well as other finds from Viking tombs around the Oslo Fjord. One of the highlights is The Oseberg burial ship, which was excavated by Norwegian archaeologist Haakon Shetelig and Swedish archaeologist Gabriel Gustafson in 1904 and 1905. The ship contained two prosperous women who had been buried in 834AD. Tapestries adorned the inside of the ship and the bodies of the women lay on a raised bed. They had numerous burial gifts with them including clothing, jewellery and
animal tributes, some of which can be viewed by visitors.
NATIONAL GALLERY Boasting Norway’s largest public collection of paintings, drawings and sculptures, the National Gallery’s main draw is Edvard Munch's haunting The Scream. While there are paintings by Cézanne and Manet, it is art from Norway that dominates. The permanent exhibition shows highlights from the collection and national icons from the romantic period until the mid-1900s. On Sundays entrance is free.
THE vIGELANDSPARKEN SCULPTURE PARK The famous park is filled with 212 bronze and granite sculptures, but it is also a hang out for residents and visitors to Oslo. Also known as Frognerparken, this is the place to soak up the summer sun while enjoying a barbeque. The Monolith is the most impressive of the sculptures, a column more than 14 metres tall and carved in one single stone consisting of 121 human figures. There is also a museum and a café to enjoy. Starting 2nd September: EK 159 departs Dubai at 7am, and arrives in Oslo at 12.10pm. EK 160 departs Oslo at 1.55pm, and arrives in Dubai at 10.50pm.
POPULATION: 634,000 LANGUAGE: Norwegian CURRENCY: Norwegian kroner CLIMATE: Oslo has a humid continental climate. Because of the city's northern latitude, daylight varies greatly, from more than 18 hours in midsummer to around six hours in winter. FAMOUS RESIDENT: Henrik Johan Ibsen, 19th-century Norwegian playwright, theatre director and poet. WHAT IS OSLO FAMOUS FOR? The Nobel Peace Prize is awarded by a committee of five people chosen by the Norwegian Storting (Parliament of Norway). DID YOU KNOW? Norway is regarded as the birth place of modern skiing. WHAT TO EAT: Brunost, a brown sweet cheese.
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RESPECTED GLOBALLY PREFERED LOCALLY MEDICLINIC MIDDLE EAST OPERATES: • Mediclinic Welcare Hospital • Mediclinic City Hospital • Mediclinic Dubai Mall • Mediclinic Ibn Battuta • Mediclinic Meadows • Mediclinic Arabian Ranches • Mediclinic Mirdif • Mediclinic Al Qusais • Mediclinic Beach Road • Mediclinic Al Sufouh • Mediclinic Corniche
EXPERTISE YOU CAN TRUST. UAE • SOUTH AFRICA • NAMIBIA • SWITZERLAND www.mediclinic.ae
briefing
Comfort
Wellness in the air
To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time on board with Emirates today.
smart traveller
Drink plentY of Water Rehydrate with water or juices frequently. Drink tea and coffee in moderation.
travel lightlY Carry only the essential items that you will need during your flight.
Before Your JourneY Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition. Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications? Get a good night’s rest before the flight. Eat lightly and sensibly.
Wear glasses Cabin air is drier than normal, therefore swap your contact lenses for glasses.
at the airport Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in. Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress. Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.
use skin moisturiser Apply a good quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.
keep moving Exercise your lower legs and calf muscles. This encourages blood flow.
During the flight Chewing and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent. Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy. Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently. Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.
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make Yourself comfortaBle Loosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body.
When You arrive Try some light exercise, or read if you can’t sleep after arrival.
briefing
Visas & UaE smart GatE Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle free as possible.
CUSTomS DEClArATIon Form
electronic system for travel authorisation (esta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Programme, You must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure.
esta facts:
All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.
Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending. A successful ESTA application is valid for two years, however this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.
apply online at www.cbp.Gov/esta nationalities eliGible for the visa waiver*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, latvia, liechtenstein, lithuania, luxemburg, malta, monaco, The netherlands, new Zealand, norway, Portugal, San marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**
* subject to chanGe ** only british citizens qualify under the visa waiver proGramme.
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BE SMART!
NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES
USE UAE SMART GATE AT DUBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GO THROUGH IMMIGRATION IN SECONDS AND GET YOUR VISIT TO DUBAI OFF TO A FLYING START Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International Airport by using UAE Smart Gate. If you hold a machine readable passport, UAE Emirates ID card or E-Gate card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds. Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International Airport.
USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY
1
Have your UAE Emirates ID card, E-Gate card or machine-readable passport ready to be scanned
Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, you can scan your UAE Emirates ID card. If you have an E-Gate card place it into the E-Gate slot
2 3
OK!
Go through the open gate, stand in the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and remain still for your iris scan. When finished, the next set of gates will open and you can proceed to baggage claim
UAE
ANDORRA
AUSTRALIA
AUSTRIA
BAHRAIN
BELGIUM
BRUNEI
CANADA
DENMARK
FINLAND
FRANCE
GERMANY
GREECE
ICELAND
IRELAND
ITALY
JAPAN
KUWAIT
LICHTENSTEIN
LUXEMBOURG
MALAYSIA
MONACO
NETHERLANDS
NEW ZEALAND
NORWAY
OMAN
PORTUGAL
QATAR
SAN MARINO
SAUDI ARABIA
SINGAPORE
SOUTH KOREA
SPAIN
SWEDEN
SWITZERLAND
*UK
USA
*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)
REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY
To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having your details validated by an Immigration officer. That’s it! Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you landed.
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UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY:
Machine readable passports from the above countries UAE Emirates ID cards E-Gate cards
ROUTE MAP
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NEW ROUTES:
Kano/Abuja: from August 1, 2014 Chicago: from August 5, 2014 Oslo: from September 2, 2014 Brussels: from September 5, 2014
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ROUTE MAP
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ROUTE MAP
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• • • • • • • •
Contract Drafting & Review Business Setup , Offshore & Free Zone Companies Corporate & Commercial Legal Services Litigation & Arbitration Debt Collection Banking, Insurance & Maritime Cases Real Estate, Construction & Labor Cases Trademarks, Patents & Copyrights
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• • • • • • • •
DUBAI EMIRATES TOWERS, 14TH FLOOR, SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD P.O. BOX: 9055, DUBAI, UAE TEL: +971 4 330 4343 | FAX: +971 4 330 3993 contact@emiratesadvocates.com | www.emiratesadvocates.com ABU DHABI Tel: +971 2 6394446 auh@emiratesadvocates.com
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DIFC Tel: +971 4 4019562 difc@emiratesadvocates.com
WITH AFFILIATE OFFICES IN SAUDI ARABIA, QATAR, BAHRAIN, KUWAIT AND OMAN
FOR 24 HOUR LEGAL ASSISTANCE, PLEASE CALL +971 (50) 328 99 99
the FLeet
Our fleet contains 225 aircraft made up of 212 passenger aircraft and 13 cargo aircraft
Boeing 777-300eR
Number of Aircraft: 97 Capacity: 354-442 Range: 14,594km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 64.8m
Boeing 777-300
Number of Aircraft: 12 Capacity: 364 Range: 11,029km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 60.9m
Boeing 777-200LR
Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 266 Range: 17,446km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m
Boeing 777-200
Number of Aircraft: 9 Capacity: 274-346 Range: 9,649km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 60.9m
Boeing 777F
Number of Aircraft: 11 Range: 9,260km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet
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Airbus A380-800
Number of Aircraft: 50 Capacity: 489-517 Range: 15,000km Length: 72.7m Wingspan: 79.8m
Airbus A340-500
Number of Aircraft: 9 Capacity: 258 Range: 16,050km Length: 67.9m Wingspan: 63.4m
Airbus A340-300
Number of Aircraft: 4 Capacity: 267 Range: 13,350km Length: 63.6m Wingspan: 60.3m
Airbus A330-200
Number of Aircraft: 21 Capacity: 237-278 Range: 12,200km Length: 58.8m Wingspan: 60.3m
boeing 747-400erF
Number of Aircraft: 2 Range:9,204km Length: 70.6m Wingspan: 64.4m Aircraft numbers as of July 2014
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last look
Dubai MAHA ABDUL RASHEED, 28, OWNER, BAMBAH, BEACH ROAD, JUMEIRAH I have lived in Dubai for 17 years. I moved here with my parents when I was young and grew up here; Dubai is my home away from home, and I love being here. There is so much room for innovation, and I appreciate how Dubai becoming a melting pot of cultures has enabled me to interact with different people, learn more about others and learn to accept. I also like the bridge between western and eastern cultures that you experience here more evidently than anywhere in the Middle East. It’s a very cosmopolitan city with a lot of stylish people who enjoy looking good and standing out from the crowd. My boutique, Bambah, is located on Jumeirah Beach Road, so I spend most of my time in this neighbourhood. I love Jumeirah because it always feels like you’re on vacation. There’s something about the style of the architecture and landscape with its proximity to the beach that makes it a happy place to be. I’m always after comfort and elegance. I love vintage and I always look for ways to mix and match different shapes, styles and textures. I don’t like putting in too much effort with fashion, and I shy away from utter perfection. I like to see something off, and I love it when an outfit makes a strong statement that says something about the person. It’s more about standing out than blending in. Ultimately, I don’t believe there should be any rules when it comes to fashion, and I don’t usually follow trends.
IMAGE: REM
bambah.com
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