Open Skies | July 2015

HOW DISNEY CHANGED SUMMER

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Editor-in-ChiEf Managing PartnEr & grouP Editor EditoriaL dirECtor grouP Editor SEnior Editor dESignEr Sub Editor EditoriaL aSSiStant

Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Ian Fairservice Gina Johnson gina@motivate.ae Mark Evans marke@motivate.ae Andrew Nagy andrew.nagy@motivate.ae Ralph Mancao ralph@motivate.ae Salil Kumar salil@motivate.ae Londresa Flores londresa@motivate.ae

ContributorS

Chris Anderson, Chris Beanland, Andrew Birbeck, Geoff Brokate, Marina Chetner, Gemma Correll, Mark Eveleigh, Mark Johanson, Jamie Knights, Erin Kunkel, Kaye Martindale, Robbie Porter, Sandra Tinari, Stuart Turton. Cover: Craig & Karl digitaL dESignEr Ralph Mancao ralph@motivate.ae digitaL aniMator Surajit Dutta surajit@motivate.ae

gEnEraL ManagEr ProduCtion S Sunil Kumar ProduCtion ManagEr R Murali Krishnan

ChiEf CoMMErCiaL offiCEr Anthony Milne anthony@motivate.ae PubLiShEr Martin Balmer martin.balmer @motivate.ae

grouP SaLES dirECtor Craig L. W. Wagstaff craig.wagstaff @motivate.ae

grouP SaLES ManagEr Jaya Balakrishnan jaya@motivate.ae

rEgionaL ManagEr abu dhabi Imane Eddinari Imane@motivate.ae

dEPuty SaLES ManagEr Amar Kamath

EditoriaL ConSuLtantS for EMiratES Editor Hannah Burden Hamer arabiC Editor Hatem Omar dEPuty Editor Andy Grant WEbSitE emirates.com InternatIonal MedIa representatIves auStraLia/nEW ZEaLand Okeeffe Media; Tel + 61 894 472 734, okeeffekev@bigpond.com.au bELgiuM and LuXEMbourg M.P.S. Benelux; Tel +322 720 9799, francesco.sutton@mps-adv.com China Publicitas Advertising; Tel +86 10 5879 5885 gErMany IMV Internationale Medien Vermarktung GmbH; Tel +49 8151 550 8959, w.jaeger@imv-media.com hong Kong/MaLaySia/thaiLand Sonney Media Networks; Tel +852 2151 2351, hemant@sonneymedia.com india Media Star; Tel +91 22 4220 2103, ravi@mediastar.co.in JaPan Tandem Inc.; Tel + 81 3 3541 4166, all@tandem-inc.com nEthErLandS giO media; Tel +31 (0)6 22238420, giovanni@giO-media.nl PaKiStan D&S International News Agency; Tel +92 3235345727, dnsnewsagency@gmail.com SWitZErLand, franCE/itaLy & SPain IMM International; Tel +331 40 1300 30, n.devos@imm-international.com turKEy Media Ltd.; Tel +90 212 275 51 52, mediamarketingtr@medialtd.com.tr uK Spafax Inflight Media; Tel +44 207 906 2001, nhopkins@spafax.com uSa Totem Brand Stories; Tel +1 4168475100, nicole.mullin@tc.tc Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

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E D I T O R ’ S

L E T T E R

ANDREW NAGY

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was no different from anyone else as a child; the mouse called to me, too. As did picturebook castles, pirate ships, and people dressed as dogs that, confusingly, also drove trucks. Unfortunately, Disneyland was never on the agenda for my summer holidays. In fact, it was so far off the agenda that for years its very mention would elicit a bemused laugh from my parents, like the place was a mythical paradise. Even then, the irony was not lost me.

With that door firmly closed, my efforts were concentrated on what the UK had to offer, finally settling on a place in Yorkshire called Lightwater Valley. England’s theme park game was in its infancy in the mid-’80s, and as a result it was distinctly lacking the glamour I’d seen on TV from across the pond.

US, but eventually globally, dictating how you spent your summer. It was a seismic shift that’s still being felt 60 years later.

In working on this month’s cover feature, and reading the words of Stuart Turton, I’ve realised that I actually still want to go to Disneyland, I’m not even afraid to say so. Yes, it might be a little less about wandering up to Mickey Mouse for a chat, and a little more about finding Club 33, the hidden bar Disney created as his answer to corporate schmoozing, but the desire to go remains as powerful as ever.

I suppose that’s the great thing about adventure, it’s a rather subjective notion. While to some it might be hurling themselves out of a plane at 14,000 feet, to others it could simply be finding an untouched

Disneyland was a huge gamble in 1955, built at a time when Walt's movies were struggling, but it would change everything Lightwater Valley had two main attractions worthy of note, one being an indoor rollercoaster called The Rat that took you on a journey through the sewers, and another, thankfully, far less literally named attraction called the Death Slide – the reality being a seven- or eight-foot-high drop.

It doesn’t sound like much. In fact, let’s be honest: it wasn’t much, but to my nine-year-old self it was the highlight of summer and the memory remains as stubborn as the free sticker that was set to blight our car window for the decade that followed.

While places like this might have been a far cry from the bubble gum world of Disney, they were created in response to its phenomena. It might have been a massive gamble in 1955, at a time when Walt’s movies were suffering, but it paid off, not only in the facebook.com/openskiesmagazine

stretch of beach. To the chef, Rodolfo Guzman, it’s heading out to the foothills of the Andes, foraging for ingredients that will make his nation’s cuisine great.

Guzman’s restaurant – Borago in Santiago, Chile – was derided on opening. “Who would want to eat food from Chile?” being the somewhat surprising reaction of the Chilean media. However, the international press came to Guzman’s rescue, changing a national mind-set from the outside in, lavishly praising the creativity and beauty of Guzman’s work. Borago is now ranked No 5 in the prestigious ‘Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants’ list by San Pellegrino. We joined him on his most recent foraging mission, and found, among the sea strawberries, the excitement and enthusiasm of a man thoroughly engrossed in his passion. twitter.com/openskiesmag

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C O N T R I B U T O R S

JULY Some of the people who helped create this issue of Open Skies CHRIS ANDERSON

STUART TURTON

GEOFF BROKATE

KAYE MARTINDALE

Chris is a freelance journalist based in London, writing mainly for travel and men’s lifestyle magazines. This month he spoke to motorsport legend Sir Stirling Moss at the launch of a new book celebrating his life.

Stuart is a freelance journalist specialising in travel and technology. He spends a lot of time going in the wrong direction, grumbling at smartphones and trying to remember where he left his house keys. This month he writes on Disneyland.

Geoff is an Australian photographer based in the UK. This month he travelled to explore Jordaan, quite possibly the most beautiful neighbourhood of Amsterdam.

Kaye is a semi-nomadic writer currently based in Yorkshire’s beautiful Calder Valley in the UK. This month she travelled down to London for lunch with saxophonist Leo Green.

“It was great to have the opportunity to hang out with Leo Green, a passionate but laidback saxophone player who’s worked with most of my musical heroes. He’s an inspiring guy who’s managed to realise his dreams effortlessly by following his passion.”

“It’s 60 years since two of Stirling Moss’ most memorable victories. In 1955 he won the British Grand Prix and the notorious Mille Miglia road race in Italy, driving at an average speed of more than 98mph for more than 10 hours.”

“Most people thought Disneyland would fail within a year, which means Walt Disney gambled his fortune – at a time when his films weren’t doing so well – on proving them wrong.”

“If you ever need to find Jordaan just ask for the Western Church. But the area is so much more than this tourist spot.

Once I left the main canal and got lost in the back streets, there were so many unique stores and boutiques I wanted to include them all.”

MARK EVELEIGH

MARK JOHANSON

SANDRA TINARI

CHRISTOPHER BEANLAND

Six nerve-wracking hours dangling from a frayed cable in a Venezuelan cable-car sent Mark into free-fall on a career as a travel photojournalist.

Currently based in Indonesia, this month he explores the shophouses of Singapore.

Mark is a Santiago-based writer whose articles on travel, culture and food regularly appear in the BBC, CNN and various travel magazines. This month he followed chef Rodolfo Guzman into the culinary wilds to explore Chile’s ancestral cuisine.

Sandra is an Australian freelance journalist and photographer, based in Dubai. This month she wrote about a creative hub and a legendary Dubai eatery.

Christopher is a freelance journalist based in London who writes on culture and architecture. This month he delves head first into the Open House Project.

“With its non-stop buzz, fast-paced service and authentic Arabic food, served street-side, Al Mallah is a Dubai institution.

Far from the city’s allconsuming malls, both venues reveal another, altogether enthralling side to our desert city.”

“If you love poking your nose around places where other people live or work (I know I do), then Open House is for you. It’s about getting behind the closed doors of amazing buildings – from Buenos Aires to Barcelona – for one weekend a year.”

“Singapore is well known for its high-rise glitz, but I’d always been drawn to the tangled shophouse alleyways of Kampong Glam or Little India. It’s there that you get a real feeling for the cultural of the city.“

“There is a palpable buzz in Santiago at the moment as chefs like Rodolfo Guzman reinvent Chilean cooking by taking it back to its indigenous roots.”

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Carefully curated content focused on unique experiences

Sterling Moss

Lunch With

Taste Of

Local Knowledge

29

34

53

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FRONT

E x p E r i E n c E

July 3 – 5

British Grand Prix NorthamptoNshire, UK

Winning the British Grand Prix meant a lot to me, as you can imagine. I won in the Mercedes-Benz W196, and I remember it well. I’d caught up with our team leader, the legendary Juan Manuel Fangio, and as we went round the last corner I put my foot flat to the floor and took the chequered flag.

We finished as Mercedes in first and second place, and I was literally half a car ahead. I did ask Fangio afterwards if he’d let me through on purpose, but he always insisted that I had just driven well.

In those days, driving to me was more

of a hobby. Today, a Formula 1 driver might compete in 20 races a season. I took part in 600 races over 15 years, including Formula 1, endurance races, touring cars and international rallies. There were occasions when I would race five times in a day, and the cars weren’t as safe – we didn’t even wear seatbelts.

If you’re talking about memorable years, 1955 was pretty good for me. I won the Mille Miglia road race in Italy driving a Mercedes-Benz 300SLR two-seater, and then at Aintree I had my first Grand Prix victory, in front of my home crowd

[between 1955 and 1986, the British Grand Prix rotated between Silverstone, Aintree and Brands Hatch before Silverstone became its permanent home].

Modern Formula 1 is fantastic, but from the driver’s point of view, I do think it’s probably a little easier for them now than it was in my day, as all the balance is taken care of. When I met Lewis Hamilton and he showed me his car, he was trying to tell me what all the buttons do, and I just had no idea what he was talking about.

Stirling Moss: My Racing Life, published by evropublishing.com, Dhs287

emirates has been a Global Partner of Formula one since 2013, and has a major presence at 15 F1 races across europe, asia, north america and south america.

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as told to chris anderson. iMaGe: GettY

ahead oF this Month’s British Grand Prix, leGendarY racinG driVer stirlinG Moss tells us his MeMories oF VictorY and whY F1 is still sPecial

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E x p E r i E n c E

July 9 – 12

San Diego ComiC-Con California, US

Pretty much all The Avengers cast went to Comic-Con in San Diego last year and it was quite a day, I can tell you. It was the first time fans anywhere in the world got to see a trailer for Age Of Ultron, and it was great to show it to them because, believe me, they are so dedicated and passionate about all things comic books.

I can’t put into words how much I wanted the role of Iron Man. I was practically begging for it. I was cer tain it would change my life... and it has. I really believe I was born to play that par t and, yes, I know that’s a bit cheesy, but I really do believe it.

I wasn’t an avid comic book reader or fan or anything like that as a kid, but I’ve had to become one since getting this gig, so here’s a good travel tip for you: Hollywood is home to some amazing little independent comic book stores where the staff are passionate about what they do. If you’re ever in the city they really are wor th a visit, and you can find yourself losing a couple of hours in there easily.

It’s with a tiny bit of regret that I haven’t had what you would call many ‘strange requests’ since bagging the role of Iron Man. I guess that’s because, as a rule, our

Check out ice this month for Marvel’s Avengers: Age of ultron, starring Robert Downey Jr.

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fans are extremely cool, but at Comic-Con I was surrounded by hundreds of people in Iron Man costumes wanting photos with me – which, I’ll be honest, was an extremely surreal experience.

You know, there’s so much responsibility when making a Marvel movie, but I don’t think it involves the risk of being typecast. If you look back Christopher Reeve had great roles after Superman, and even more recently Christian Bale has had great roles both during and after Batman. There’s definitely life after being a superhero. comic-con.org

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JULY 20, 1969

THE LOST ASTRONAUT

WHILE NEIL ARMSTRONG AND BUZZ ALDRIN LANDED ON THE MOON, MICHAEL COLLINS, THE THIRD MEMBER OF THE APOLLO 11 TEAM, BECAME THE MOST ISOLATED MAN IN THE GALAXY As Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin landed on the surface of the Moon, Michael Collins, the guy you don’t normally hear about, was alone with his thoughts. About as alone as it gets actually, onboard the mothership, Columbia, and heading steadily into lunar orbit, the dark side of the Moon, and a total lack of radio contact with the known world.

Each orbit would take Collins (above middle) 48 minutes, and despite his utter isolation he would later claim that he never once felt loneliness, rather “awareness, anticipation, satisfaction, confidence, almost exultation”.

Crippling doubts, however, were at the forefront of his mind throughout.

“My secret terror for the last six months has been leaving them on the Moon and returning to Ear th alone; now I am within minutes of finding out the truth of the matter,” he wrote. “If they fail to rise from the surface, or crash back into it, I am not going to commit suicide; I am coming home for thwith, but I will be a marked man for life and I know it.”

These weren’t the paranoid fears of an isolated man. Worries that the mission would end in disaster had consumed ever yone from the beginning.

Technology in the lander, Eagle, was feared unreliable and Armstrong himself only rated their chances of getting off the moon’s surface at 50/50.

Richard Nixon, then US president, had even prepared a speech that he would deliver in the event of Eagle’s engine failing.

As it was, those fears proved unfounded and Eagle slowly left the lunar surface, engines blasting for the full seven minutes required to reach Collins. They would return to a hero’s welcome, but rather than being the marked man he feared – as would befall Armstrong and Aldrin – Collins was destined to slip from the public consciousness almost entirely.

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MISSION NOTES THE SPACE RACE MIGHT BE OVER, BUT CAPE CANAVERAL IS STILL WORTH YOUR TIME Kennedy Space Center was originally built for Saturn V – the rocket used in the Apollo 11 mission – and the way we look at it, there are several reasons you should make a trip there when you’re in Florida. Firstly, you can still take in a rocket launch, from the famed LC-39 launch pad – used in every Nasa human space mission.

Secondly, it’s also the site of a wildlife reserve so you’ve got as good a chance of seeing alligators, bald eagles and Florida panthers as rockets. Finally, they have a theatre that actually simulates the Apollo 11 moon landing – which is pretty epic, when you think about it. kennedyspacecenter.com

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Words: AndreW BirBeck iMAGes: GreG Funnell

n a remarkably short space of time the WilliamVintage brand has evolved from one off pop-up shop to fashion phenomenon. Indeed founder William Banks-Blaney is now known as the King of Vintage and has been appointed Global Style Ambassador for American Express and Fashion Patron of Oxfam.

Not bad for a man who took his first steps into the world of fashion retail less than five years ago. However, as with many so-called overnight success stories, a compelling and fascinating narrative lies beneath. William’s background lay in interior design, and great design crosses boundaries. He | 25 |

explains, “As an interior designer I’d often happen across amazing vintage clothes and I star ted to pick them up along the way as presents for friends.”

A turning point came when he was on a Paris weekender with a close friend who needed cheering up. “We hit the vintage shops but it turned into a bit of

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a disaster. The assistant in one par ticular shop was unbelievably rude and genuinely upset my friend. I left thinking that there had to be a better way.”

The Parisian experience made a strong impression. William’s idea for a vintage fashion outlet stocking the absolute best in design with personal care and attention top of the agenda continued to form in his mind. “I decided to try a pop-up shop to test the waters,” he tells me. “I had no idea if anyone would show up but we sold out in hours. I couldn’t believe it.” Encouraged by that initial success William went on to fur ther pop-ups, each one more successful than the last. “The moment came when it struck me that this really was a viable business, then I went about setting up permanently in Mar ylebone.”

During those early days, and largely by word-of-mouth, WilliamVintage attracted what can only be described as a dedicated following of A-list

celebrities, from William’s close personal friend Gillian Anderson to Rhianna, Jessie J, Lana del Rey, Helena BonhamCar ter and Tilda Swinton to name but a few. William explains the relationships he’s built up, “It’s about day-to-day wear too, not just glamorous occasions.

Our first ‘Red Carpet’ was for Gillian Anderson. She mentioned that she had ‘a thing to go to’ and could I source something for her to wear. When I asked what it was she casually replied – ‘Oh, it’s the BAFTA’s.’ ” William’s clients extend far beyond household names however. “Our youngest is 17, the eldest 74. They all simply love vintage but may be a little afraid of getting it wrong.

We’re here to take the fear out of it.”

Sourcing the very best is essential and William individually chooses each piece.

“I guess I’m a bit like an art dealer, always hoping for that forgotten Monet sitting in the corner of the attic covered in dust.”

When asked about those taking their first plunge into the world of vintage William’s

advice is simple. “Don’t go over-the-top, for example perhaps your very first purchase shouldn’t be a 1950’s Dior haute couture dress. Start off with something timeless and versatile like a beautiful 1960’s swing coat or a wonderfully tailored suit. You can wear a swing coat with jeans, a jumper, on a dinner-date or picking up the kids from school. Buy something that fits your wardrobe, and your life, and take it from there.”

Somehow in the midst of all this William found time to write his first book – 25 Dresses, an enthralling exploration of women’s fashion in the 20th Centur y. Bubbling with enthusiasm he tells me, “It’s a process I enjoyed enormously, examining what these iconic designers brought to women’s lives. Superficially fashion may be one thing, but if you scratch the surface it’s so much more.”

25 Dresses: Iconic Moments in Twentieth-Century Fashion by William Banks-Blaney, published by Quadrille

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L u n c h

w i t h

LEO GREEN He’s played saxophone for Jerry Lee Lewis, Van Morrison, Eric Clapton and more, but don’t ask him how it all happened, he’s not quite sure WORDS: KAYE MARTINDALE IMAgES: gEOFF BROKATE

I

’m meeting Leo Green in Little Italy, a family-run Italian restaurant that has been a Soho mainstay for more than 40 years. In the midst of central London’s often tiringly glitzy restaurant chains it offers a welcome slice of authenticity – a theme that is set to run throughout my afternoon. Few people

would recognise Leo Green. Despite having performed with an illustrious list of stars, he’s skilfully managed to avoid the limelight and actually seems a little puzzled by our interview request, wondering, with genuine perplexity, “Who would want to know about my life?”

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L u n c h

w i t h

I reMeMBer CAllIng My DAD frOM the CopaCabana beaCh, In A PAIr Of COWBOy BOOts AnD BlACk trOusers COMPlAInIng thAt It WAs tOO hOt

Son of Benny Green, a saxophonist, writer and broadcaster, Leo grew up knowing instinctively that music was for him.

“Looking back I wasn’t aware that I was getting a musical education, but I suppose I was. I grew up saturated in it.”

Having been lucky enough to see Leo play, I was expecting a wild and flamboyant character, his live performances have been, rather accurately, described by one journalist as “incredible frenzied sax playing, with a pelvis that provides more thrusts than a NASA booster rocket”, but in real life there’s precious little thrusting. He has a calm, unhurried manner and the sonorous voice of a smooth 1950s show tune crooner.

Leo’s musical career followed a remarkably smooth trajectory, despite little help from his illustrious father. “I’d started playing the saxophone because I liked it, then suddenly I was paying my rent and travelling around the world because of it. It happened very naturally. Within a couple of years of getting a sax, I went from playing along with records in my room to performing with Jerry Lee Lewis. I really wish I knew how that happened; if I did I would bottle and sell it.”

What is clear is that his first big break combined a remarkable slice of fortune with the enormous chutzpah required to actually pull it off. Following his passion, an 18-year-old Leo went along to a gig where one of his musical heroes, the legendary rhythm and blues saxophonist Big Jay McNeely, was playing and asked him if he offered saxophone lessons. Big Jay answered no, but invited him to play with the band on stage the next day.

“I arrived at 8 o’clock with my sax. The band came and said, ‘Look, he’s back at the hotel with an airhostess, you’re gonna

have to go on with us.’ I just said OK and went on stage. I took it all in my stride, but looking back I don’t know how I managed to be so cool about it. After 20 minutes Jay walked in and saw me playing. I could see that he was nodding, he came up and played along with me. Later on he said, ‘Why don’t you come back and do it again tomorrow night?’”

One gig led to another and before he knew it he was playing regular gigs in London, until one day he got a call from a club owner asking, curiously, whether he “had long hair”. “I said no.

He said, ‘Good, I’ve got someone coming in and he’s looking for a saxophone player. I’m not going to tell you who he is but he doesn’t want anyone with long hair.’ That man turned out to be Jerry Lee Lewis. I was only booked for three nights, but ended up staying with him for two years.

“I travelled the world with Jerry. That was an amazing education: something you can’t get at any college. There was no set list, I just had to follow what he did. He was one of the originators of rock ’n’ roll and it doesn’t get much better than playing Great Balls Of Fire on stage with Jerry Lee Lewis!”

“I think it worked out because I wasn’t conscious of things like career paths, I just wanted to play. It was as simple and as naive as saying I’d love to play with that artist, I’ll go and ask them if I can.”

Despite being thrust into the spotlight with legendary artists, Leo certainly didn’t consider himself one of them and, genuinely in awe of Jerry Lee Lewis, would more often than not act like a fan around him. “Someone gave me a picture of me playing with him once, so after we’d finished a gig I got into the queue with the other fans and waited in line for him to sign it.

Are you a fan of jazz? Check out ‘Just Jazz’ in Music Podcasts on ice Digital Widescreen. Or you can head to the Jazz & Blues section for over 35 jazz albums.

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L u n c h

“It’s funny, looking back at it all, I clearly had no idea what I was doing. The first trip I was booked on with Jerry was to Brazil and I remember calling my dad from the Copacabana beach to find out the football results, in a pair of cowboy boots and black trousers, complaining that it was too hot. I literally just went to the airpor t and got on the plane. I was just so excited to be out there doing gigs, though, that it didn’t matter whether I was going to Rio or Romford.”

After touring with Jerry Lee Lewis, Leo decided he’d like to work with Van Morrison, so simply wrote a letter to Van asking if he could. Van replied in the affirmative.

“One of the best things about touring with Van was that he’d always hire obscure legends to open for him. One night in New York he booked a guy called Jimmy Witherspoon, an old blues singer. He was using Van’s band so for half an hour each night I got to play with him. He was ver y complimentar y and I could hardly believe it.”

This was the thing about Leo: despite the list of musical greats he’s played with – Little Richard, Chuck Berry, Ray Charles, James Brown, Ronnie Wood, Eric Clapton, Bo Diddley, to name but a few – the highlight of his career was meeting and playing on stage with one of his childhood heroes.

After touring with Van Morrison for five years, Leo star ted a family and reassessed his life. “I realised that touring wasn’t really conducive to parenthood.”

At one point I was doing three tours at once and would be in two or three countries in one day. I ended up in hospital. I still love playing but I don’t go off for three months at a time anymore. I miss it sometimes but it’s like going out every day: the idea of it is great but as you get older the reality of it

w i t h

I was gIven a pIcture of me playIng wIth Jerry Lee Lewis once, so after we’d fInIshed a gIg I got Into the queue wIth the other fans and waIted In lIne for hIm to sIgn It becomes hard schlepping up and down the country isn’t easy.

Doing the gigs is fine, it’s the travelling that’s exhausting.”

Perhaps naive in his youth, Leo now seems to have his feet planted firmly on the ground. He avoids boasting about any of his experiences and refuses to indulge me in the idea that there’s anything glamorous or exciting about the life of a musician.

“It’s a weird thing. I know musicians who have a hard time making a living. For them the fantasy is having the ‘real job’. They dream of knowing what they’ll earn every year and of having a paid holiday. Yet if you’re the guy in the bank, going on tour seems so exciting. The grass is always greener.”

Just as his career as a professional touring musician blossomed, seemingly with minimal effort, Leo also moved with ease into his subsequent roles. His wealth of industry contacts made him a perfect fit as an artistic director and one of his biggest coups was booking his old comrade Van Morrison to play a 250-seat gig at the iconic London jazz club, Ronnie Scott’s.

These days he has a foot in many different worlds. He heads out to the office most days to plan his critically acclaimed BBC radio shows and continues to work on his massively successful Bluesfest, a yearly blues festival, which has grown over five years from a small event to a three-day festival at the London O2 Arena. He also has his own band, The Leo Green Experience, and does regular gigs as what he describes as a “gun for hire”. He also does a bit of comparing, musical arrangement and conducting.

Leo pauses as he tries to find the answer to my final question, about the thread that holds together his success in all those different roles. Still like the fearless 18-year-old who tumbled almost unknowingly into the life of a professional musician, he isn’t quite sure how it all happened. “Cer tain gloves fit you, there’s no rhyme or reason to it, you’ve just got to be open to the possibilities.”

The BiLL 1 x pan-fried king scallops (us$39), 1 x tagliatelle ragu’ di manzo (us$29), 1 x fondue (us$14), 1 x tiramisu (us$12), 1 x orange juice (us$7), 1 x Bitter lemon (us$6), 1 x filter coffee (us$5)

Total: us$112 | 33 |

L A M B

G Y R O

WE USE A HARISSA-SPIKED YOGHURT

that’s very simple to make at home (see recipe).

Spread it all over your warm pita, before you place down the lamb and vegetables.

SOURCE GREAT LAMB.

We work with a local Bay Area farm called Superior Farms to source the highest-quality USDA Prime lamb leg we can find. Also, our rotisserie is the real secret weapon.

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L A M B

G Y R O

SOUVLA LAMB GYRO Souvla is a Greek sandwich shop in the heart of San Francisco’s Hayes Valley, and it’s helping make the gyro the sandwich of 2015 WORDS: SOUVLA IMAGES: ERIN KUNKEL

AG

ab REA rati out the T GYR o ba . You bread O IS to j lance b want j -to-m all

e u and icy me etwee ust the ata br at, c n wa righ i r o the ght sp oling m pita t pick ike o yog h led red f acid f urt, onio rom n.

IF YOU DON’T HAVE A ROTISSERIE, you

can still do this at home with a roasting pan, a knife and a mixing bowl.

No special tools required.

SOUVLA LAMB GYRO INGREDIENTS 3lbs cooked lamb meat (hot) 16oz harissa yoghurt 12oz shaved red radish 12oz shaved Persian cucumber 8oz sliced red onion 16oz crumbled Greek feta cheese 6-8ea Greek-style pita bread

STEPS 1. Toast pita bread on both sides in a dry sauté pan or griddle until warm and pliable 2. Spread around two ounces of harissa yoghurt in the centre of one side of pita bread 3. Spoon roughly six ounces of cooked hot lamb on top of yoghurt 4. Place 10-12 slices of shaved radish and cucumber on top, as well as six to eight slices of red onion 5. Crumble feta cheese on top 6. Place sandwich on a square piece of foil and/or butcher/wax paper Roll and wrap tightly SERVES SIX TO EIGHT

HARISSA YOGHURT INGREDIENTS 2oz lemon juice 2oz harissa paste 16oz kefir/Greek yogurt 1tsp kosher salt

STEPS 1. Whisk together harissa, lemon juice and salt 2. Fold-in yoghurt and incorporate 3. Pour into one quart container and refrigerate

SOUVLA MARINADE INGREDIENTS 1tsp Dijon mustard 2 cloves peeled garlic, minced 2oz lemon juice 1tbsp dried oregano 1tbsp kosher salt 6oz extra virgin olive oil

STEPS 1. Mix chopped garlic and mustard Add herbs/spices 2. Whisk in lemon juice 3. Slowly whisk in oil 4. Place into appropriately-sized container and refrigerate, if not use immediately souvlasf.com

Emirates launched its non-stop service to San Francisco in 2007. In 2014, the capacity on the route was upgraded with the introduction of an Emirates A380 service.

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S t a y :

R o o m

La Cour des augustins Geneva, Switzerland

Words: GEoFF BroKATE ImAGE: LEs CoUr dEs AUGUsTINs Tucked into a quiet back street of Geneva’s Latin Quar ter, La Cour des Augustins is an urban hideaway in an utterly stunning city.

The building has a beautiful 19th century facade, allowing it to blend with ease into its surroundings, giving you the sense that you’re truly at the hear t of Genevan life.The lobby and

rooms are furnished with creations by local designer, Philippe Cramer, whose work features in the permanent collection of the Geneva Museum Of Ar t And Histor y. Meanwhile, the lobby is a mixture of soft cur ves, original lighting and oversized chairs; it feels more like a 1960s sci-fi film set than a hotel. The owner’s vision of

creating a living galler y is accomplished with a private collection of African ar t adorning alcoves and walls throughout the hotel. Even more impressive is the fact that if you like any piece within the hotel it’s possible to buy it, including the incredible boomerang-shaped corian breakfast bar. lacourdesaugustins.com

Emirates launched a daily service to Geneva in 2011, as a second gateway into Switzerland after Zurich, which started in 1992, and is now double daily.

On October 1 this year, Zurich will become an all-A380 route.

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S t a y :

C l a S S i C

Hôtel du Cap-eden-RoC Antibes, FrAnce

Words: AndreW nAgy ImAge: Hôtel du CAp-eden-roC Every hotel has a stor y to tell, but few tales are as impressive as that of Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc. Built in 1869 and named Villa Soleil, it was intended as a haven for writers star ved of inspiration.

By 1887 it had adopted its current name and was set to become the hotel that turned the French Riviera into a summer time destination.

Lost Generation writers Ernest Hemingway and F Scott Fitzgerald were regulars –the latter even immor talised Eden-Roc as Hôtel des Etrangers in his novel Tender Is The Night. The Kennedys holidayed here, Pablo Picasso designed the menus and Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Bur ton honeymooned here (the first time).

It’s got popular culture oozing out of the walls. Now, with 117 guest rooms – some based in the original Villa Soleil building – it’s known for the best restaurants, rooms and par ties on the Côte d’Azur and is an absolute must for anybody looking for a slice of classic French Riviera charm. hotel-du-cap-eden-roc.com

Through Emirates’ partnership with SNCF you can combine your Emirates flight and a TGV train journey between the TGV station at Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport and 19 train stations across France. Learn more at emirates.com

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S t a y :

C o n t e m p o r a r y

Archer hotel New York, US

Words: Marina Chetner iMage: arCher hotel In a city that’s constantly evolving, Manhattan’s Garment District is suddenly in vogue. Archer Hotel, located amongst Midtown’s trimming stores and bead shops, opened in May 2014 to become one of the area’s trendiest addresses.

The floor-to-ceiling windows in the Archer King Empire View rooms are so-named because they provide stunning views of the

Empire State Building, also seen front and centre from the airy terrace of the rather popular Spyglass Rooftop Bar on the 22nd level. Open from afternoon until late, it’s a local spot people gravitate towards.

Same goes for the David Burke Group’s ground-level Fabrick restaurant and Bugatti Bar, where New Yorkers and hotel guests gather over drinks and modern American

cuisine. In warm weather, retractable doors open to the adjoining street side patio.

The nearby lobby displays part of the house art collection with modern pieces like the colourful, diaphanous abstraction

by Brooklyn-based Artie Vierkant, a piece that adds to Archer’s delivery of a quintessential New York experience. archerhotel.com

Emirates operates 84 passenger flights per week between Dubai and the US – including four times daily to New York, with three direct services and one via Milan.

| 40 |

Rush The Team Members of LUX* help people to celebrate life with the most simple, fresh and sensory hospitality in the world.

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N e i g h b o u r h o o d

Jordaan, amsterdam Words & Images: Kaye martIndale

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Emirates serves Amsterdam Airport Schiphol twice daily, including a daily A380 service.

Arguably the most beautiful neighbourhood in Amsterdam, Jordaan manages to be both achingly cool and picture postcard pretty. It has wide leafy boulevards that are perfect for casual strolls, canal side terraces that are made for coffee drinking and people watching, as well as labyrinth backstreets that invite capricious exploration.

It hasn’t always been so inviting. Built in the 17th century to house the city’s

influx of immigrants, the area’s canals were open sewers and overcrowding was a serious issue. It remained a working class neigbourhood until the ’70s when many of the buildings became derelict. The area was saved from the bulldozers, and taken over by artists, before the city’s wealthy and urban professionals moved in.

Now the area is home to some of the most expensive real estate in Holland | 43 |

and most visitors to the area daydream about how it would be to live in one of the quaint gingerbread-style apartment buildings that overlook the cobbled streets and canals of the Jordaan. Despite being a popular area with tourists, it retains the feeling of being a living breathing part of the city due its plethora of independent eateries, unique stores and vibrant local scene.

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N e i g h b o u r h o o d

Torch Gallery

Tucked away down the quiet Lauriergracht, a wide, leafy residential street, is Torch Galler y. Opened in 1984, it was one of the first galleries to open in the Jordaan area. The galler y was an early pioneer of photography as a form of Fine Ar t, and has propelled many of the Netherland’s most successful contemporar y ar tists to international fame. Founded by Adriaan van der Have, who worked as a framer, he felt that there was a market for the photography he’d been framing and took the bold step of opening the galler y. The legacy he star ted is now continued by his son, Mo, who took over in 2009. Mo says that despite being different people they both seek new forms in ar t that are “beyond the standard and conventional”.

Lauriergracht 94, Amsterdam | +31 20 626 0284 | torchgallery.com

Gallery ron Mandos

Located on Jordaan’s main canal-lined thoroughfare, Prinsengracht, the Gallery Ron Mandos prides itself on its changing exhibitions that showcase the work of established and emerging contemporary ar tists. Unusually for Amsterdam they have a huge gallery space, which means they are one of the only commercial galleries in the city that can host large-scale installations. It’s almost impossible to pass by the gallery’s huge street level windows without being drawn inside to explore spine-tingling sculptures and arresting paintings. In 1999 Ron Mandos opened a gallery in his home in Rotterdam. After achieving success there he opened a new gallery in Jordaan in 2008, by which time the neighbourhood was established as the favoured ar t district of the city.

Prinsengracht 282, Amsterdam | +31 20 320 7036 | ronmandos.nl | 45 |

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N e i g h b o u r h o o d

D&A

This hummus bistro has a nature-inspired minimalist dÊcor with pristine white walls and generous splashes of green provided by delicate sculptural plants. The clean, fresh design of the interior is matched by the dishes on offer : a simple and healthy selection of Arabic-inspired hummus with a strong emphasis on quality ingredients used in traditional methods. They offer a variety of hummus flavours, along with typical Arabic dishes such as baba ghanoush and shakshouka. One of the newest additions to the Jordaan area, it’s the only hummus bistro in the city and was created by two best friends who were missing the taste of home. They decided to leave behind their careers in adver tising and photography and realise their dream.

Westerstraat 136, Amsterdam | +31 20 341 6487

Frozen FountAin

Frozen fountain is a huge design store located at the edge of Jordaan. With a wealth of established and respected national designers to draw from and its close relationship to the most important art academies in the country, Frozen Fountain is at the cutting edge of all new developments in Dutch design. As well as giving new and established designers a platform to sell their work, it also hosts exhibitions and displays original artworks. This tardis-like store looks small from the outside but stepping through its doors reveals a labyrinth of stairs, twists and nooks where you can find deluxe upcycled furniture, sculptural fabric wall hangings and handmade comic curios. Their close links with designers also mean that they can arrange bespoke design commissions.

Prinsengracht 645, Amsterdam | +31 20 622 9375 | frozenfountain.nl | 47 |

N e i g h b o u r h o o d

Koffiehuis ‘de hoeK’

Amid the traditional Dutch architecture the Koffieehuis ‘de Hoek’ – the coffee house on the corner – blends in perfectly. The owners Harry and Laura have tried to stay true to the working class roots of the neighbourhood, and the result is a small and sweet little place, ran by their daughters, Iris and Ruby, where locals and tourists alike vie for a table. In keeping with the quaint, neighbourhood feeling of the café, they offer a selection of ‘Local Hero’ dishes – meals that have been created by frequent requests by their regular customers. Our advice is to tr y the ‘Andre’ – a hear ty breakfast that was introduced to the menu by Andre Mannaar t, a famous Dutch kickboxer and Koffiehuis ‘de Hoek’ regular.

Prinsengracht 341, Amsterdam | +31 20 626 0830

The Pianola MuseuM

As soon as you step through the doors of the Pianola Museum, you’re transpor ted from the busy streets of Amsterdam into the calm and cloistered world of a Victorian parlour room. The pianola, an automated form of piano, was popular at the turn of the 19th centur y but fell out of favour some time ago. The museum is the only one of its kind to celebrate this forgotten instrument. Although it’s only one room, it’s filled with various beautifully crafted pianolas and tens of thousands of music rolls.

Each visitor is treated to a personally guided tour of the museum by the curator, Kasper Janse, and given a spirited pianola demonstration. The Pianola Museum hosts regular classical music concer ts and holds special monthly shows of silent movies with pianola accompaniment.

Westerstraat 106, Amsterdam | +31 20 627 9624 | pianola.nl | 49 |

N e i g h b o u r h o o d

PiqNiq

With a perfect spot on one of Jordaan’s peaceful boulevards, PiqNiq’s friendly staff will advise you of the delicacies of the day as you take in the charming street view from the terrace or sit inside enjoying the cosy cafe atmosphere. Its name is taken from the French words pique, meaning to ‘choose or pick’, while nique stands for ‘a little something’ – and that’s just what the café provides. Diners choose from a selection of small yet tempting finger foods to create a kind of sandwich-inspired tapas. Like the finger foods they ser ve, the café is also bite-sized – located next to one of Amsterdam’s biggest outdoor markets. Ever popular, PiqNiq is perhaps one of the few cafés in Amsterdam that actually requires table reser vations.

Lindengracht 59, Amsterdam | +31 20 320 3669 | lunchcafepiqniq.nl

Boekie Woekie

Star ted in 1986 by six ar tists, Boekie Woekie is the only bookshop in the world that sells ar tist-made books. From their small, yet very well stocked, shop they sell all manner of books relating to ar t, from unique handmade books by ar tists from all around the world to sheet music for children, to ar t histor y relics. This unpretentious store is a delight to explore and is the perfect place to buy a lovingly handcrafted, one-of-a-kind piece of ar t. In keeping with the founding member’s egalitarian values, the shop also exhibits and sells affordable ar t and has a regular programme of ar tistic and musical performances where they offer a platform for local experimental and contemporar y ar tists to showcase their work.

Berenstraat 16, Amsterdam | +31 20 639 0507 | 51 |

L o c a L

K n o w L e d g e

A4 SpAce AnD cAfé How to develop your life-changing idea, with the help of specialist coffee, stylish furniture and Al Quoz’s newest and most creative business words and IMaGEs: sandra TInarI

D

ubai’s dusty industrial area is an unusual place to discover a communal hub dedicated to fostering the local creative community, but Al Quoz is fast-emerging as the city’s newest ar ts district and A4 Space workspace and café rests at its hear t.

Located in Alserkal Avenue – home to many of Al Quoz’s art galleries – A4 Space is a collaborative venue that aims to provide creative experiences, innovation and learning, says Abdelmonem Bin Eisa Alserkal, the founder of Alserkal Avenue and A4 Space, as well as Dubai’s Patron Of The Ar ts.

“Alserkal Avenue has always been a space for imagination and creativity, and has become a community unlike any other, welcoming the most talented minds and leaders of the creative economy to realise the most unique concepts. We felt it was time to extend the same to the young creative generation of the UAE by opening a collective space that encourages the creation and the incubation of new ideas so that they might become full-fledged initiatives in the near future.”

With soaring warehouse ceilings, A4 Space offers a diversity of open and contemplative workspaces for ‘squatting’

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K n o w L e d g e

tHE DECk spaCE upstairs Has a sHarED liBrary wHErE usErs DONatE tHEir FavOuritE BOOks aND tHEN leave a note to inspire the next reader creatives. Sprawling communal wood worktables and benches, as well as ground level soft furnishings, occupy the first floor.

Located at the hear t of this level is A4 Space’s café, Appetite, which regularly hosts a collection of coffee-loving galler y owners, writers, ar tists and other like-minded individuals.

A pop-up store is also found on the ground floor. A4 Space and Alserkal Avenue Director, Vilma Jurkute, explains further: “A4 has a dedicated space for local designers to showcase their unique designs to our community, which is a part of our mission to continuously support and engage homegrown talent. The pop-ups rotate every month and have included designers and stores such as Essa Walla, Mahani, Made by Native, Yataghan, Army of 1, West LA, Drawdeck, and Noora among others.”

The café and workspace’s mezzanine floor plays hosts to further desk room and a shared library, where users are encouraged to donate and enjoy their favourite books, each with

a personal note designed to inspire from the previous owner inscribed inside. Known as the #LEAVEYOURNOTE project, donated books are not limited by text, format or language.

The only must is a personal note, explaining why the book is recommended, and the donator’s name. Thanks to social media the project has received donations not just from Dubai’s book lovers but also from New York, Kuala Lumpur and London.

A4 Space’s pièce de résistance is the cosy bed-like booths on its third and highest loft level. These cocooning, comfor table cubicles allow for quiet contemplation, while enjoying expansive views of the café and work places below.

Here, creative hand-drawn notes and ideas pepper the walls in a riot of colour ; collective shared memories of creative coffee drinkers past.

A4 Space is open Saturday to Thursday, from 10am to 7pm. alserkalavenue.ae

Do you like coffee? On board Emirates flights in Economy Class you can enjoy Nairobi Coffee at every meal. Coffee brewed to order is available in Business Class and First Class. Have your choice of espresso, cappuccino and decaffeinated.

| 55 |

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Customers who spend AED 200 at any Rivoli stores in the mall will receive five coupons for a chance to win in the draw. You’ll also get five times the chances of winning by dining (with a minimum spend of AED 200) at the Restaurant Area on the 2nd level of East Atrium. Additionally, female shoppers who spend AED 200 between 10AM and 1PM will receive two coupons to double their chances to win the draw.

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18TH JUNE - 30TH AUGUST

L o c a L

K n o w L e d g e

Al MAllAh Down in Dubai’s old garment district of Satwa, you’ll find that one of the city’s oldest restaurants is still also a favourite

A

l Mallah in Dubai’s old garment district of Satwa has been serving some of the city’s favourite Arabic food for almost three decades.

As Adib Abo Faesal gazes out the windows of his 2nd December Street restaurant, bicycles and cars whizz past at a frenetic pace; the Satwa ar tery is a constant hive of activity and for 28 years Cafetaria Al Mallah has sat at its hear t.

Wedged between the World Trade Centre and Dubai’s dry docks, Satwa is home to a diverse community of nationalities and as the manager of Al Mallah for 25 years, the relaxed and jovial Abo Faesal knows most in the district.

The Lebanese restauranteur first worked at Al Mallah when it was just a juice stand. After 28 years the restaurant now dominates one of Satwa’s busiest corners.

“It used to be very quiet around here when we first star ted,” he says. “2nd December Street in front of our restaurant here used to be only a car park.

“Many of our staff have been here a long time – 20 years, 15 years, 10 years – we’ve been here so long that our customers are now our friends because they’ve been coming here to eat for so many years. And, we always greet them with a smile, we’re never angry here.”

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The Lebanese restaurant is a favourite of visitors and Dubai’s residents alike, many of whom have grown up dining on Al Mallah’s famed fresh juice and breakfast manakeesh, a dough flatbread filled with cheese or spiced with the Arabic herb mixture, Za’atar.

Abo Faesal says the restaurant, which now has four branches across Dubai and Sharjah, evolved over many years. First the juice, followed by shawarma wraps, manakeesh and falafel.

The restaurant’s barbecue chicken and mixed grills, and mezze appetisers came later.

His customers are of varied nationalities, from the local community and visiting tourists. Some order delivery or grab a quick take-away sandwich from Al Mallah’s street-side stall, while others prefer an air-conditioned seat indoors or to linger over a meal outside, people watching as the bustle of Satwa’s daily life continues apace.

“We have many visitors coming here to eat our food, from Europe, India, America and Australia…from everywhere. As soon as their plane lands in Dubai, they come to see us,” he says. “They come for good food, at a good price and good service.”

Customers are attracted to the Arabic cafetaria’s fixed menu he thinks, too. Diners come and try a little bit of everything, and with a filling meal setting you back around Dhs30-Dhs40, the prices are also a big draw. But, Abo Faesal says the Lebanese food itself is the main attraction.

“The Lebanese have good kitchens. Lebanese is nice, good, clean and healthy food.”

Cafetaria Al Mallah is open 7am to 3am on 2nd December Street, Satwa

we have customers from all over the world. as soon as their plane lands in dUBai theY come dowN aNd see us | 59 |

A collection of stories from around the world

The Impossible Dream

The Hunter

The Five-Foot Way

Open House

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82

91

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MAIN

The impossible dream Words: sTuarT TurTon

T h e

i m p o s s i b l e

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d r e a m

T h e

i m p o s s i b l e

d r e a m

DisneylanD changeD the way we view theme parks, california anD holiDays in general, but as it turns out, the worlD’s most famous tourist attraction almost wasn’t built at all

D

isneyland turns 60 this month, on July 17 to be exact – a remarkable achievement considering most people thought the park wouldn’t even last a year.

Conventional theme park wisdom in 1955 demanded free entry and multiple gateways, not US$1 cover charges, one entry point and nostalgia-sculpted scenery. But by bucking all known trends, Walt Disney not only transformed the for tunes of Anaheim – the formerly sleepy Californian town where he built his dream – but changed the way we holiday forever.

Let’s star t with the numbers, because at the very root of this type of success is always good math. Nearly 16.8 million people visited Disneyland in 2014, around 550,000 more than the previous year. It’s the world’s third most visited theme park by attendance, par t of a division that contributed US$2.2 billion to Disney’s US$6.1 billion profits last year.

This is information Walt Disney could have done with in the early 1950s, when he was shipping the idea of an amusement park to sceptical investors. It’s one of the problems with being a visionary – you’re constantly pointing to smudges on the horizon that nobody else can see.

“I could never convince the financiers that Disneyland was feasible, because dreams offer too little collateral,” said Walt Disney, afterwards. “It’s no secret that we were sticking just about every nickel we had on the chance that people would really be interested in something we could create that was totally new and unique in the field of entertainment.”

Disney is alleged to have got the idea for Disneyland after watching his daughters on a merr y-go-round in Los Angeles’ Griffith Park. He’d also been inundated with fan latters asking to come and visit the Walt Disney studios, but he knew there was just nothing of interest to a child there. As it was, the park – first documented and referred to as ‘Mickey Mouse Park’ in a memo from Disney to studio production designer,

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T H E

I M P O S S I B L E

Dick Kelsey, on August 31, 1948 – would then lay dormant due to problems with the funding.

After selling his life insurance for $100,000 to pay a draughtsman to draw up the plans, and selling his house to buy the 160 acres in Anaheim where it would be located, he had everything he needed – except the $17 million required to build it. His solution was typically far-sighted, laying down a template that has made his company one of the biggest brands in the world: tap into some cross-media appeal.

Roy O Disney – Walt’s older brother – pitched a television show to the ABC network called Walt Disney’s Disneyland, which served the dual purpose of entertainment and shameless PR intended to work the public into a lather about the forthcoming park. It succeeded. The show’s ratings skyrocketed,

D R E A M

ABC invested in Disneyland, and Walt got to work transforming Anaheim’s orange groves into his theme park. After so much rejection, he must have felt like an illusionist pulling a rabbit from a hat. Only it wasn’t a rabbit, it was an elephant.

“Imagine if Walt Disney had never built his Kingdom,” says author Chris Strodder, in his book The Disneyland Encyclopedia.

“The city of Anaheim, deprived of its biggest employer, probably would’ve grown up as an undistinguished bedroom community instead of as one of the state’s ten biggest cities, complete with major hotels, a busy convention centre, a modern sports stadium, the Angels, and the Mighty Ducks. Without Disneyland to learn from, Walt Disney wouldn’t have considered launching an immense Walt Disney World in Florida, and today there wouldn’t be Disney parks spread all over the planet.”

THE PARK IS SOMETHING THAT WILL NEVER BE FINISHED. SNOW WHITE IS A DEAD ISSUE WITH ME. BUT I CAN CHANGE DISNEYLAND, BECAUSE IT’S ALIVE | 67 |

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Unpicking history this way is often an exercise in aggrandisement, the economics of absence impossible to measure and so easy to abuse. With Disneyland though, the ripples of its influence aren’t confined to Anaheim. By setting up shop in California, Walt Disney inadver tently stuck a pin in the map and declared it the world’s theme park capital – a trick the company would repeat with Florida in 1971 when it opened Walt Disney World.

“It’s true, in terms of physical size, revenue and employment, the largest theme parks are located in Florida and California [home of Walt Disney World and Disneyland respectively], and they overwhelm all operators in other locations,” says IBISWorld analyst Farrell McKenna. “Industry players have found that there are synergies, promotional oppor tunities and other advantages in having a number of major operators located in the same area. Offering joint and single ticketing arrangements with discounts, such as a three-park pass, is a good example of how the industry’s developed.”

Every one of us holidays differently because Disneyland exists – whether we’ve been there or not. Before Disneyland, an amusement park was a collection of rides stuffed wherever there was space. People ate and drank, took a spin on the ferris wheel and left with their cotton candy. If there was a theme it was capitalism, the owners offering as much ramshackle fun as you were willing to pay for.

Disneyland was different because it was as much theatre as amusement park – an interactive car toon filled with the

D R E A M

DISNEYLAND WAS FIRST DOCUMENTED IN A MEMO FROM WALT HIMSELF AND WAS REFERRED TO AS ‘MICKEY MOUSE PARK’

company’s most famous characters. Everybody from the janitors to the princesses was playing a role, each of them dedicated to thickening the illusion. For the first time, the background mattered: the details, the grass, the rocks. It was a world brought to life, and one wor th spending time exploring.

“Theme park development changed from selling a seven-hour experience to a seven-day experience,” says Clive B Jones, an analyst with Economics Research Associates. “Disney, of course was the pioneer in this thinking. Now the top end of the industry is dominated by all-inclusive resorts, most notably Disneyland, that offer travel packages including hotel accommodation, park admission and special events. These larger amusement parks attract visitors from all over the US and abroad… and developers have realised the incredible economic impact theme parks have on surrounding properties like hotels, resorts, and shopping centres.”

But as it turned out, building Disneyland wasn’t enough for Walt. He employed an in-house team of artists and engineers called Imagineers to create rides people hadn’t seen before, investing heavily in new technology. Disneyland was home to the US’ first monorail, and later an animatronic Abraham Lincoln show that wowed crowds at the 1964 World’s Fair in New York.

This alliance of spectacle and fun drove Disneyland to heights its forebears had never dreamed of, and is now so integral to the theme park experience that any company looking to open one better do so with a healthy bank balance.

According to IBISWorld, most major operators spend about 20 per cent of their annual revenue on wages and | 69 |

T h e

i m p o s s i b l e

d r e a m

“Disneyland is something that will never be finished,” he said. “It’s something that I can keep developing. It will be a live, breathing thing that will need change. A picture is a thing, once you wrap it up and turn it over to Technicolor, you’re through. Snow White is a dead issue with me. But I can change the park, because it’s alive.”

It’s a process that’s kept Disneyland in good stead these last 60 years, the attractions constantly updated and improved without ever fundamentally altering the appeal of the park. But there are challenging times ahead. Disneyland’s limited acreage is beginning to tell, with long queues often blighting the kingdom’s appeal – a tricky problem to solve when visitor numbers are constantly rising. Moreover, it’s now been almost a decade since Disneyland unveiled a truly new attraction, a situation that’s almost certainly down to a lack of space rather than will, but a pressing issue given the pace of development elsewhere.

How Disney tackles these issues will shape how we’re talking about the park’s 120th bir thday, but if the last 60 years have taught us anything, it’s that they won’t be rushed into an answer. Disneyland is Walt Disney’s greatest achievement and his most significant legacy. It’s the company crown jewel, and they’re not going to do anything that might tarnish it.

Behind the Mouse

Three parts of Disney folklore we love

labour costs. Between 2009 and 2013 – a period when most companies were hunkering down waiting for somebody to tell them the recession was over – The Walt Disney Company invested $2.4 billion in its domestic theme parks, while Universal Parks And Resor ts spent $1.2 billion. That’s what it takes to compete in the modern market. Rocking up with a big dipper and some jangly music isn’t going to get it done – as Walt Disney knows from first-hand experience.

“Veteran fans still point to the 1990s as a difficult time for Disneyland,” says Strodder. “Even though there’d been some expensive new developments like Mickey’s Toontown and the Indiana Jones Adventure, not ever y major movie was received with universal acclaim and overall the park seemed to be focusing less and less on basic maintenance and upkeep. New upper management arrived in the 2000s that respectfully restored the park’s beauty and put the focus back on the guest experience.”

It’s the nature of looking back that eventually, inevitably, you begin to look forward. Nobody understood this better than Walt Disney himself, who was constantly re-sketching the lines of his creation.

1. DeDication Day Disneyland wasn’t quite ready for it’s opening. It had been constructed rapidly, in one year and a day, and around 20,000 people were expected. As it was, 35,000 arrived – most of them using counterfeit tickets. Some of the rides broke down, Walt messed up an address to camera (left) and, as it was so hot, ladies’ heels would sink into the asphalt. Walt named it: Dedication Day. Staff would, unofficially, call it: Black Sunday.

2. Pirate material There are rumours that real skeletons were originally used in the Pirates Of The Caribbean ride. This was the last ride that Walt Disney himself participated in designing and it opened in 1967, three months after his death. It also boasts the urban myth that his cryogenically frozen body is buried beneath it (in reality Walt was actually cremated). It would also be the precursor for the Pirates Of The Caribbean movie franchise.

3. club 33 If you’re looking to escape the cartoon mayhem for a while, the only place to get a real drink is in the discreetly hidden Club 33 in New Orleans Square. The most widely accepted reason for it is that this was Walt’s version of corporate hospitality. The only problem is that, even if you find it (it’s painted a shade called ‘Go Away Green’) you probably can’t get in. Membership is around $27,000 and as of 2011 there was a 14-year waiting list.

Emirates Holidays offers flight and hotel-inclusive packages to destinations around the world, including Disneyland. Visit emiratesholidays.com

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The Hu

nter

Words and images: Mark Johanson

Rodolfo Guzman is on a mission.

His restaurant, Boragó, is already one of the best in the world, but he’s not aiming for accolades; he wants to change everything the world thinks it knows about his nation’s food

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odolfo Guzman fumbles in his pocket for a ringing telephone, dropping the sack of beach asparagus he just hauled up from the coastline of Isla Negra to press the green answer button. On the other end of the line is a chef from the 37-year-old’s restaurant back in Santiago who wants to know if we felt the earthquake that just rattled Chile’s central coast.

It registered 5.7 on the Richter scale, a shrug of the shoulder by Chilean standards, but enough to warrant a call to those on the coast, or those who could be in the path of a potential tsunami.

Guzman says what I already know; we felt nothing. We were too busy foraging along the shore in search of seasonal ingredients for the Endemica tasting menu at the professional water skier-cum-star chef ’s restaurant, Boragó, in Santiago’s upscale Vitacura neighbourhood.

Boragó is a grand experiment in ancestral cooking and, quite possibly, Chile’s best

chance at making a culinary splash beyond its isolated frontiers.That’s because Guzman sees the sheer geography of this earthquakeprone sliver at the bottom of the globe as the key to unlocking Chilean cuisine from its European shackles, freeing it from global obscurity and turning it into what he envisions as “a culinary multi-millionaire.”

Half of Chile is razorback mountains (the tallest outside the Himalayas), while the rest is 4,700 kilometres of coastline (more per capita than almost anywhere else in the world). The country starts in the driest desert on earth and finishes in the foggy fjords of Patagonia. The number of edible endemic plants lurking in between the coast, mountains, deserts and fjords is absolutely remarkable, especially when you consider that this is a nation whose most popular dishes are husked wheat floating in peach syrup and a hot dog smeared in avocado paste.

“Chile has amazing products, but it has terrible food,” says Guzman, who earned | 74 |

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h u n T e r

Guzman giddily hops from one cluster of produce to the next, ordering a gaggle of chefsin-training around with the flick of a knife his chops under Andoni Luis Aduriz at seminal Spanish restaurant Mugaritz before returning to South America in 2005.

When Guzman opened Boragó in 2007, Chile’s top restaurants wouldn’t dream of serving local cuisine. A nice meal out meant dining on imported recipes from France,

Guzman giddily hops from one cluster of produce to the next, ordering a gaggle of chefs-in-training around with the flick of a knife. “Get a look at this,” he says to a trainee from Spain, pointing at a green shrub that’s tucked behind a mossy rock.

“That is some amazing beach asparagus,

Spain, Italy or even neighboring Peru.

Meanwhile, Guzman wanted to turn the clock backwards 2,000 years to reawaken the dormant cuisines and cooking methods of Chile’s native Mapuche people.

That story begins with the tradition of foraging, which is what brought Guzman and I to Isla Negra. The spot he picked for today’s scavenger hunt lies just below the former home and current burial site of Pablo Neruda, Chile’s rabble-rousing, Nobel Prize-winning poet. It’s a patch of land about an hour-and-a-half west of Santiago that you might easily walk by and think nothing of, but Guzman sees this rocky seashore as a natural pantry. There are sea carrots, sea lettuce, sea parsley, sea onions and sea strawberries. There are white apples the size of peas and edible octopus-shaped kelps called cochayuyo.

isn’t it?” He turns to me for approval.

“It looks great,” I concur, although it’s my first encounter with this cornucopia of “beach” and “sea” equivalents to my longheld vegetable archive.

I’m precisely the kind of person Guzman is out to convert by using these underutilised ingredients at his high-end restaurant. This bush-to-table pioneer wants to completely obliterate the culinary catalogue for Chile and create a new one using ancestral knowledge and native ingredients. He’s employed nearly 200 people across the nation to forage for goods, launched new supply chains for other restaurants in the capital, and even opened up a research centre at the Pontifical Catholic University Of Chile to study the country’s wild produce, much of which has been used for centuries by | 77 |

indigenous groups like the Mapuche but never before documented.

“What we’re doing is a continuation of what they did,” Guzman says. “We don’t pretend to cook as the Mapuche did 2,000 years ago, but the respect and intention are the same.” This is not just about serving food, he adds, it’s about gathering knowledge, “and the Mapuche realised that the person who picks the food is no less important than the one who cooks it”.

Guzman still forages at least once a week for his products, despite owning a restaurant that’s ranked No 5 in the Latin American section of the coveted San Pellegrino’s World’s Best Restaurant list.

“There is no reason for me to keep doing this,” he says, embracing the salty slap of Pacific breeze. “But I just love to get out of the restaurant and feel the fresh air.”

One of the three stray dogs that have followed us around Isla Negra falls into a puddle of water and emerges, embarrassed, with knee-high mud boots.

The chefs and I share a laugh, but Guzman doesn’t notice a thing. He’s lost in the ecstasy of the hunt.

As we roam from a patch of claw-like sea strawberries (the last of the season, and a bit too sugary) over to a sprig of sea onions (which look and taste like chives with a briny tang), Guzman explains what he sees as his patriotic mission.

T h e

“We’re trying to give pride back to the Chilean people,” he explains. “We want them to be proud of their roots by making a strong connection with foods that have never really played a role in Chilean cuisine before.”

Guzman believes that if Chileans reconnected with the bounty that surrounds them, products like loco (a large sea snail), rica rica (a citrusy desert herb) and merkén (a smoked spice) could all become major exports internationally in the same way Peru’s former “peasant food” like quinoa and purple potatoes are now prized ingredients.

Yet this is a process that will surely take time. Boragó nearly shut its doors in 2011 due to a rash of negative reviews in the local press. Only when foreign food critics hailed Guzman’s concept as revolutionary in 2012 did Chileans begin to open up to the idea that their ancestral cuisine might be worthy of revisit. Boragó has since sparked a wave of interest in ancestral cooking that’s sweeping across the nation, with new restaurants like Peumayen Ancestral Food and 99 gaining accolades both at home and abroad.

Guzman talks about the early years of rejection and the more recent ones of redemption on our ride back to Santiago over the rust-red Coastal Range and through the emerald green vineyards of Casablanca Valley. When we reach Santiago, the snowcapped peaks of the Andes loom high above Boragó as a reminder that every ingredient brought here tells a different story.

h u n T e r

Many of the items we’ve just foraged make their way into plastic boxes on one of 30 shelves in Boragó’s test kitchen, a laboratory of innovation and larder of all things native just above the restaurant.

Mathematical diagrams, swooping charts and cryptic recipes form graffiti on the

Guzman opens up one of the test kitchen’s steel drawers and shows me a project he’s particularly proud of. It’s a tray containing five carrots that have each been infected with Camembert cheese.

The Camembert forms a thick glaze over the top of the carrots during five days

Guzman shows me a project he’s particularly proud of. It’s a tray containing five carrots that have each been infected with Camembert cheese chalkboard walls, while a rainbow of post-it notes decorate the tiled kitchen, denoting what’s fresh, when and how to prepare it.

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of slow cooking, but doesn’t destroy the properties of its host in the process. “We have to explore new possibilities because in 30 years there won’t be enough food to feed the world,” Guzman explains of his work in the test kitchen.

I sample more of these possibilities, along with the fruits of my labour out on the coast, at a table downstairs in the sparsely decorated dining room. The barebones atmosphere of tables, chairs and little else is initially underwhelming, but it’s a conscious choice meant to steer diners’ focus towards the theatricality of the food.

The first star ter to arrive is a piure covered in the skin of a mandarin. This fleshy tunicate, which has a flavour akin to urchin, is served on a bed of rocks resembling the ocean floor from which it came. Next up is a slate containing

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a light sandwich of locos (sea snails), followed by a “tree” made of squid-inked breadstick branches covered in edible Chilean wildflowers.

Guzman is the first to admit that some of his highly seasonal dishes may not be the most comforting or delighting foods you’ve ever tried – but they’re going to be provocative. And if you approach the meal with an open mind, you may leave with an expanded palate and better appreciation for Mother Nature’s bounty.

The subsequent course begins with a crudo of venison. It’s covered in murtilla, a spicy berry from Patagonia, and flanked by a mosaic of the berry’s edible leaves. A stew of wild mushrooms plucked from Quintay, along Chile’s central coast, soon follows.

The theatricality continues with a stripped bonsai that emerges from the open kitchen with two poached quail eggs perched in a nest of dehydrated mushrooms. Up next is the heavy hitting “rock sequence” where Boragó truly shines. The first of three dishes

is an interpretation of Chile’s coastal environment, made up of squid ink crisps and mashed beach asparagus. The second is a light ceviche of palometa alongside an oval of pulverized sea strawberries.

The third is a morsel of smoked conger eel in a shallow stone bowl. It’s wrapped in volcanic black tempura and bathing in a broth made from the stems of the seaweed cochayuyo, impar ting a salty, soy sauce flavour.

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This latitude-hopping meal ends with a glacial puff of Andean air in the form of a one-bight nitro-cooked meringue. The national aperitif, Bitter Araucano, further clears the palate and makes a fine end to a coinciding journey through various wine regions featuring several of Chile’s unsung whites and lesser-known reds (such as old-vine Carignan).

Much like Noma in Copenhagen (which is currently ranked as the Best Restaurant In The World by Restaurant magazine), Boragó sparks a dialogue between nature and cuisine. And like Noma’s René Redzepi, Guzman, too, emphasises an unmistakable sense of time and place in his cooking.

My Chilean partner likens the experience of eating with me at Boragó to taking a tour through childhood memories.

For him, it evoked a condensed version of weekends along the coast, family vacations down to the Lakes District and college trips up to the deserts of the far north. All of these half-remembered flavours from across the country suddenly had a home together in one place. He felt proud.

Chile has always been known for its products – from its wine to its sea bass – but never before for its cuisine. Yet by making something old new again, Guzman is forging a fresh path ahead, one that continues this month with his work as the gastronomic consultant for the Chile Pavilion at Expo Milan. He views this as just another step in a long journey that’s much bigger than one chef at one restaurant.

Even if the clean and earthy ancestral flavors of South America’s skinniest country never make the leap to a restaurant table near you, Guzman’s job will have been a success. He simply wants to open a long closed door and document all the possibilities.

The

Five

: S E G MA I & S lEigh D R O W k Eve MAr

FOOT

WAY

e r a s r u e n e r p e r t n e Many Singaporean z it l g e is r h ig h e h t n o s k c a b ir e h t g in n r tu t ic r t is d s s e in s u b and glaMour of the downtown roots, ir e h t o t g in n r u t e and r l u f r u o l o c ’s n io t a n e h t f o l a iv v e r a e r e h w . .. e c a l p g in k a t is e g a it r e h l a r u t c e it h c ar

S

hrapnel shards of pastel paintwork reflect haphazardly in the glass panels of a Singapore office block. A neon-lit uptown boulevard gives way to a labyrinth of alleys where fringed Chinese lanterns and wrought-iron lamps throw eerie shadows into tunnel-like walkways.

Singapore’s glitteringly modern skyline has become instantly recognisable, but look closer and you can still find a city that has evolved through the years. Perhaps even more so than the great colonial institutions, the humble shophouses are the roots from which the far-reaching branches of Singapore’s multi-cultural business network has sprang throughout the world.

Many Singaporeans are now working together to ensure that these roots will never be allowed to decay. “Shophouses give us a sense of the culture in an area,” says Patrick Phoa. Uncle Vintage, as he’s better known to his Kampong Glam neighbours, is sitting among an unimaginably eclectic jumble of antique and collectible treasures

that spills out into covered walkway outside his shop on Sultan Road. The Heritage Shop has become a Singaporean institution that counts the Emir of Qatar among its recent customers. “When shophouses are cleared to make way for high-rise developments we lose a certain sense of belonging. As a people from a mix of cultural backgrounds, a sense of belonging is particularly important to us.”

The Urban Redevelopment Authority (URA) – the entity in charge of town planning – has officially declared many of the city’s remaining shophouses deserving of protection as “historical sources of delight and nostalgia”. Back in the late 1980s the URA put its money where its mouth was by restoring no less than 32 shophouses in a deliberate attempt to convince the private sector just how attractive these conversion projects could become.

“There are now about 6,500 in Singapore that have conservation status,” says Teh Lai Yip, Senior Director Of Conservation at URA. “Some are only available to Singaporeans but most shophouses

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T H E

F I V E - F O O T

as the City BecAme More DenSely PopUlAted the Five-Foot way BecAme a SpaCe for a VarIety of StrEet-TraDers IncLuDing BarBers, ScrIbes, and Even the Clan HouSes of SecRet ChiNese AssOcIatIons in historic districts, such as Chinatown, Kampong Glam and Little India, are zoned for commercial use, and can actually still be owned by foreigners.”

Earlier this year The Straits Times reported that a shophouse in Chinatown’s Pagoda Street was sold to an Indonesian businessman for more than US$15 million (US$2,600 per square foot). As demand has risen the average price has escalated in the last five years from US$1,160 per square foot to more than US$2,500.

Take a leisurely walk around Little India, Kampong Glam or Arab Street and you’ll still find rows of ramshackle old dwellings; ancient plaster peeling, balconies sagging like the frontage of heavily made-up dowager actresses. Times are changing however and, all over the city, shophouses are being snapped up by forwardthinking boutique firms of designers, artists, lawyers and architects who realise that there is a great future in investing in the island’s picturesque past. Step-by-step the dowdy old actresses are being converted into the starlets they once were.

When Sir Stamford Raffles commissioned the island’s first official town plan in 1822, a major priority was to create different ethnic quarters that would ease conflict within the rapidly growing immigrant population. Chinatown and Little India were created and Kampong Glam was established as a home for Malay and Bugis settlers. What all these areas shared in common was the shophouse design, which was influenced by the architecture of southern China but laid out along typically regimented British lines. The defining characteristic was the walkway that interconnected the front of every building to provide shade from the tropical sun and shelter during the monsoons. Regulations stated that this walkway must be exactly five feet wide and even today Singaporean locals call the ubiquitous covered footpath ‘the five-foot way’.

As the city became more densely populated the five-foot way itself became workspace for a variety of street-traders including barbers, scribes, fortune-tellers and traditional healers.

Some shophouses became the clan houses of secret Chinese associations and others were registered as officially sanctioned illicit dens. By 1923 there were 423 government-run dens in the city, distinguishable by their crimson coloured doors. Corner shophouses, where the walls could be knocked out to provide extensive seating areas, became sought-after as eateries. Many of these places are still thriving today: Kampong Glam Café is still so popular that you can rarely find a table; Nan Hwa Chong fish-head steamboat place on North Bridge Road has queues that stretch down the street almost every evening; and Usman Restaurant remains the best Pakistani eatery in Little India.

Some shophouses were converted into places of worship like the beautiful Thian Hock Kang temple on Telok Ayer Street,

With only a small frontage onto the street the shophouse would nevertheless stretch far back to include open patios for air circulation and to allow rain to enter.

The basic principal for the shophouse was a ground-floor shop-front and an overhanging upper floor where a family could live.

W A Y

The first shophouses were built with little or no embellishments, but as fashions (and finances) evolved, stately rococo, baroque and art deco shophouses became homes for wealthier traders.

Some shophouses even have tunnels built underneath, with one under The Sultan Hotel rumoured to lead to a former sultan’s residence.

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which is dedicated to Mazu, the goddess of wayfarers. At the time it was built (circa 1840) it stood on the waterfront at the point where junks arrived, and for thousands of Straits Chinese this would have been the first Singaporean building they entered. (Telok Ayer is now a long walk from the shoreline; in the last 50 years Singapore has grown by 20 per cent as land has been reclaimed from the sea.)

By the late 1950s a great many shophouses had simply became dosshouses where up to 120 labourers would take shifts to share sleeping mats. Buildings were divided and then sub-divided into the tiniest of cubicles as the squatter population escalated towards 400,000.

After independence in 1965 Singapore’s priority was to try and improve living conditions, and hundreds of shophouses were demolished to be replaced by socalled High Density Buildings (HDBs).

Just as there is a trend to move away from high-rise office space, so many tourists are choosing local-quarter boutique hotels over the big names of Orchard Road. The Sultan Hotel in Kampong Glam is a lovingly restored city block of nine shophouses (and a wonderful

WheRe to Stay

How to indulge your shophouse obsession while in Singapore SULTAN HOTEL (thesultan.com.sg) at 101 Jalan Sultan in Kampong Glam is the perfect place to stay for anyone with an interest in shophouses. B&B rates for Standard rooms start from US$113 and Signature rooms start from US$166

NAUMI LIORA (naumiliora.com) is a charming old shophouse renovation project close to the heart of Chinatown. Room prices start from US$105. The same owners also boast the rather chic Naumi Hotel (naumihotel.com). Doubles from US$234 B&B

building that was once an Islamic printing house) that has been converted into spacious suites. Mood-lighting, air-con and flat screen TVs seem to fit seamlessly with beamed ceilings and jalousie shutters.

“The purchase process took almost five years,” says Charmaine Ong, The Sultan’s manager. “The owner had to individually purchase each shophouse unit from private owners to fulfil his dream of having a complete shophouse compound for the hotel. No effort was spared in the conservation of the architectural features of the buildings and the renovation took a further two years.”

Legend has it that there’s a secret underground passageway somewhere under the lobby that leads to what was once the sultan’s residence (one imagines there must have been a few moments during those seven years when the Sultan Hotel’s determined owner wished he had a similar escape route.)

Chinatown’s 79-room Naumi Liora is another heritage hotel where the delightfully uneven corridors betray the fact that these were all independent shophouses built at different times by owners with different needs. | 89 |

“Recent years have seen increasing numbers of boutique firms switching to shophouses for commercial and retail spaces because they like the traditional feel and the ability to inject modernity into these type of spaces,” says Kunal Pawa, a young Singaporean, who has conver ted the interior of his family’s three-storey Little India shophouse into an attractive zen-industrial coworking centre known as Workhouse (ourworkhouse.com). “I’ve seen so many positive developments in Little India over the last few years that when I decided to star t Workhouse I knew that I wanted it to be here, to be a par t of that change.”

“Most of Little India is a primary conservation area,” explains Pawa, “so there’s not much that can be done on the external facade of the buildings from a design perspective. Also, there’s less availability here than in other areas since many of the shophouses are owner-occupied rather than rented out to tenants. There’s definitely growing enthusiasm for shophouses here though; people are becoming more aware of the limited availability and architectural beauty.”

Just as the island’s founders sought a way to build for the future, it seems that many of Singapore’s most forward-thinking entrepreneurs are now realising that it could also pay to invest in the past.

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OFFICE

WORDS: Christopher Beanland Illustrations: John Marsland

Every year, buildings around the globe normally off-limits to the public suddenly fling open their doors to inquisitive minds. Here are some of the best

I

t’s the eternal mystery, the desire to open a closed door and snoop around. It’s also the simple premise behind Open House, a project that sees cities all over the world – for one weekend only – open up the closed doors of some of their most private, mysterious and enigmatic buildings.

London held the first Open House weekend back in 1992 and now the concept has gone truly global. From Chicago (October 17 and 18) to Melbourne (July 25 and 26). In 2015, the 28 cities participating include Helsinki, Vilnius, Ljubljana, Perth, Buenos Aires, Rome, Lisbon, Barcelona – and many more.

In recognition of the part she played in fostering the phenomenon, Victoria Thornton – who organises Open House London and liaises with all the other cities

worldwide – was even awarded with an OBE by the Queen in 2012 for her services to architecture.

So, whether it’s the British prime minister’s residence at 10 Downing Street, or Eero Saarinen’s famous TWA Flight Center terminal at New York’s John F Kennedy Airport (or even the small, quirky buildings you’ve never heard of), Open House offers a buffet of buildings. Now you don’t have to wonder what’s behind those doors – you can open them, go in, and look for yourself.

RMIT Design Hub (2012) Open House Melbourne JULY 25-26

What do you get by nailing thousands of solar panels to the outside of a new design education and exhibition centre? A building | 92 |

that is cool, calm and restrained – and yet at the same time looks like a power station plonked on Mars.

This one-of-a-kind building by Sean Godsell is a brand new addition to the Melbourne skyline, with the twin aims of being eco-friendly and also rather excitinglooking (the two don’t always go together).

The RMIT Design Hub is the home of the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology’s design school. As well as classrooms there’s a design archive, a virtual reality centre, lecture theatres, four rooftop pavilions and unique ‘open workshop’ spaces that run through the whole building and provide shared space for people working on projects – whether that’s designing buildings, furniture, technology products or more.

Design is the essential component of the

O P E N

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building so it’s no wonder that they wanted great architecture – and they got it. The RMIT is a big deal in Melbourne and during Open House you can also look around the historic 1924 Capitol Theatre – an old picture palace that the RMIT bought in 1999 and now uses for lectures and festivals. openhousemelbourne.org

BT Tower (1965) Open House London SEPTEMBER 19-20

It’s a special privilege to be able to peer out from the windows at the top of the BT Tower and look down on Central London. No other spot is so central and gives you such a bird’s eye view of Regent’s Park, BBC Broadcasting House, the chic townhouses of Fitzrovia and the shops and theatres of the West End. The only time you’re allowed up there is during Open House London, which makes both this building, and the weekend itself, pretty special. But it wasn’t always this way. Butlin’s – who run surreal holiday | 93 |

camps in British seaside resorts – used to be in charge of the top of the tower.

There was a viewing deck and even a revolving restaurant, but that access ended in 1981.

The tower looks like a skinny pencil sticking up into the sky and represented an era of ‘white heat’ when technology was embraced by Britain. It was designed by Eric Bedford, opened in 1965 and was used (as well as a viewing platform) for firing telephone and satellite feeds around Britain, while various British charity TV shows have also broadcasted from the top of the tower. openhouselondon.org.uk

Banco de Londres y América del Sur (1966) Open House Buenos Aires OCTOBER 25-26

The Banco de Londres y América del Sur, built in 1966, electrifies the San Nicolas financial district of Buenos Aires, and when you see it, you simply can’t stop looking at it.

You can’t stop looking at its obscure

Are you an Emirates Skywards member? It’s easy to earn Skywards Miles and extremely rewarding to spend them with Emirates and our global partners. Start off with a bonus of up to 5,000 Miles on your first flight as a new Emirates Skywards member. Ask your cabin crew, and enrol today.

shapes and at its excessive amounts of concrete that forms into elegant pillars and decorative columns, making it seem like it, actually, all makes sense afterall – even if its design is rather Space Age. It can’t help but make you think of Richard Rogers’ Lloyds Building in London, which was opened 20 years later and seems like an even more high-tech version of this prototype in Argentina. The architects of Banco de Londres y América del Sur were Clorindo Testa, along with the SEPRA group (Sánchez Elía, Federico Peralta Ramos and Alfredo Agostini) and the contribution they all made to Buenos Aires is really worth celebrating.

On Buenos Aires’ Open House Weekend you’ll be able to get a rare glimpse inside the bank’s inner workings, though these

days the building is home, not to the Banco de Londres y América del Sur, but to the Banco Hipotecario instead. openhousebsas.org

Österreichische Postparkasse (1906) Open House Vienna SEPTEMBER 12-13

From the exterior, the Austrian Post Office Savings Bank (the Österreichische Postparkasse) appears something of a symphony. The white reinforced concrete facade and the angels perched on top brings to mind an art gallery, or a place where a Viennese orchestra would brandish their violins. But in fact this is a place where Austrians pay in their salaries at the government-run post office.

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But inside is where things start to get interesting, and because it’s Open House weekend, you’ll be able to see every nook and cranny on a guided tour. The main hall has a glazed roof and spindly columns holding the whole thing up. It’s light and airy. The spiral staircases seem to float in the air. This was all a deliberate trick

by Otto Wagner, the legendary Austrian architect who oversaw the design of this building in the Jugendstil style. It opened in 1906 and was hailed as a triumph.

If you like the look of this place, head nearby to Karlsplatz S Bahn Station, another Wagner calling card. That building has unusual plant and flower details, lots of ornate gold leaf on top, and is every bit as spectacular. openhouse-wien.at

Essential news and information from Emirates Airline New Route To Bologna

Inside EK

Route Maps

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EmiratEs adds fourth italian gatEway

Emirates begins a daily service to the Italian city of Bologna, from November 3.

The capital of the Emilia-Romagna region will be the airline's fourth destination in Italy bringing Emirates’ weekly flights to the country to 56.

Known as the ‘European capital of Culture’, Bologna is a vibrant economic and tourism centre as well as being the perfect

stepping off point for travellers looking to explore the neighbouring cities of Florence, Verona, Parma and Pisa.

The service will be operated by a Boeing 777-300ER, the only long-haul wide-bodied service to and from the city.

Emirates’ flight EK093 will depart Dubai International Airport at 8.45am and will arrive at Bologna Guglielmo Marconi

Be There in Bali

Where do you get your sense of adventure?

From my early years growing up in the city of Beirut, I was always the kid that enjoyed tr ying new things and a sense of adventure was a natural thing that I just grew into.

What was the highlight of your Bali adventure?

Canyoning in the Gitgit waterfalls because of the excitement I felt ever y time I looked around and saw how beautiful Mother Nature is – the waterfalls, the forests, the greener y, it's in ever ything.

Any scary moments?

I volunteered to go first on our highest jump – around eight metres – but when I arrived at the edge and spotted my landing pool underneath, I almost backed out. Thankfully I found my courage and jumped, it was a thrilling moment that I’ll always remember when I think of Bali.

Q&A with Emirates Globalista, Rahed Follow Rahed, a thrill seeker, an Emirates Cabin Crew Trainer, and one of the seven Emirates Globalistas taking you to new experiences around the world as part of the Be There campaign

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Airport at 12.20pm the same day.

The return flight will depart Bologna at 2.40pm and arrive in Dubai at 11.30pm the same day.

Emirates also launched a daily service to Bali last month and will also launch flights to Multan in Pakistan on August 1 and a daily service to Orlando, Florida, on September 1.

What would be your ultimate adventure trip?

I would love to skydive from a hot air balloon, or step out of a helicopter on a snowy mountain peak before snowboarding my way back to the bottom.

To follow Rahed and get more tips and ideas for your adventures, go to emirates. com/BeThere or follow #BeingThere

Look forward to your adventure with Emirates Holidays. Starting from US$1,680 for seven nights including flights, hotel, transfers and exploration tours. Thrill seeking activities available on request. emiratesholidays.com

perfumery is available in

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founDation acaDemy nears completion

The Emirates Airline Foundation Academy at Outreach to Africa’s (OTA) Paul Devlin School in Uganda is set to open early next year.

In 2014, the Emirates Airline Foundation announced its commitment to funding a new and first-of-its-kind educational facility in rural Uganda: The Emirates Airline Foundation Academy.

The project will see the arrival of a brand new, fully equipped school that will serve more than 300 students when it opens in early 2016 in Geme Village, a remote town outside of Fort Portal.

With more than US$1m in charitable

contribution set aside for the school, the facilities include classrooms, a librar y, staff housing, an infirmar y, a football field and playground.

Four new dormitories are being built to accommodate 240 boarding students, while a new dining hall and kitchen will accommodate resident and day students.

The funding from the Emirates Airline Foundation represents one of the most significant charitable investments for children ever made in the region.

If you would like to support the foundation’s projects, you can donate on board today’s flight using the envelope in your seat pocket. You can also learn more and donate online. emiratesairlinefoundation.org

a piece of emirates to your Door Emirates Official Store, the home of Emirates collectibles, makes it easier for fans of the airline to ‘Fly Emirates’ no matter where they are in the world.

Emirates merchandise brings aviation, travel and spor t fans together, connecting people and their passions around the globe.

With almost 300 unique items such as aircraft models, travel accessories, football jerseys and even Cabin Crew and Pilot uniforms for children, shoppers can buy these items using MasterCard and Visa debit/credit cards on emiratesofficialstore.com Delivery to UAE and worldwide customers costs a flat rate of $US5 and $US25 respectively.

Official merchandise is also in ten retail outlets including Dubai Airpor t Duty Free (Terminals 1 and 3) and its flagship outlet at The Dubai Mall. emiratesofficialstore.com

get to your gate on time

new route to multan

Starting August 1, Emirates will launch services to one of the world’s oldest cities, Multan in Pakistan.

Commencing with four weekly flights operated by a Boeing 777300 in a two-class configuration – 54 seats in Business class, 310 in Economy Class – Emirates flight EK630 will depar t Dubai at 18:20 and arrive in Multan at 22:00 on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Saturdays. The return flight EK631 will leave Multan at 23:30, arriving in Dubai at 01:20.

Emirates will also introduce five additional weekly flights to Karachi, star ting July 1. Emirates flight EK618 will depar t Dubai at 04:50 and arrive at Karachi at 08:00 on Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday. The return flight EK619 will leave Karachi at 09:40, arriving in Dubai at 10:55.

Don't miss your flight Please make sure you get to your boarding gate on time.

Boarding starts 45 minutes before your flight and gates close 20 minutes before departure. If you report late we will not be able to accept you for travel.

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Flying the Flag How Emirates has created a once-in-a-lifetime Rugby World Cup experience Words: jamie Knights

emirates is renowned the world over for its support of major sporting events and this year is no different.

One of the jewels of the 2015 sports calendar is the Rugby World Cup, which is being hosted by England in the autumn, and Emirates is an Official Worldwide Partner.

But the carrier’s involvement in the competition goes far deeper than supporting the staging of a magnificent tournament watched by millions around the world.

Its sponsorships allow people to get closer to their favourite events, teams, clubs and even sporting heroes.

The aim is also to ensure the continued growth and success of the game well into the future and that means engaging young people and spreading the rugby message across the world.

With this in mind, Emirates has launched a competition to find more than 80 Official Flag Bearers, between the ages of 14 and 16, who will be given the honour of carrying the nation's flags onto the pitch ahead of each game at the Rugby World Cup 2015.

Emirates has shared photographic clues on social media channels on where to find the flag in participating cities.

Once located, entrants upload a flag selfie, using the #EmiratesFlag to be in with a chance to win.

Each participant will also be entered into a draw to win the ultimate honour of leading out one of the teams in the Final at Twickenham on 31 October.

Helping to raise awareness for the competition is England rugby star and Emirates ambassador for rugby, Ben Foden, who emphasised the size of the prize saying, “There aren’t many 14 years olds in the world who can say they ran out at Twickenham in front of 82,000 people with millions watching on television.

“It’s quite hard to put down in words the feelings I felt the very first time I did it in a white shirt, the great sense of pride, soaking up the atmosphere and just enjoying it,” he explains.

All of the excitement and drama of the competition awaits the winners, continues Foden.

“The best thing for the competition winners is being involved in that atmosphere, the buzz, the electricity in the air, the players you are about to watch, all the gazing eyes on the field – it’s very uplifting and very inspiring.”

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It’s this involvement of younger generations that is so critical for the future of rugby and while Foden acknowledges the exposure the tournament can bring a major sponsor, he adds that it’s great that Emirates is, “Using their involvement to inspire the young as well.

“This is a once in a lifetime experience,” he says. “England is the home of rugby and all the rugby nations are coming here, so in your home town or city you will have the opportunity to bring rugby home in your local stadium.”

Foden adds that “it’s a great message Emirates is portraying and it’s great for grassroots rugby”.

An example of how the competition can bring rugby to new audiences is the fact that the rugby ambassador has just helped launch the competition in Brighton, a destination without a recognised large rugby following or major team.

“It’s fantastic that Emirates is saying ‘Brighton take note, there is a game in your area and your kids can be involved by getting to watch it, running the flag out and getting involved in this competition’, so it’s a great message,” Foden enthuses.

Of course it’s these experiences that inspire us in our formative years and for the England star, who is hoping to make the squad after a dramatic recovery from injury, it was no different.

He recalls being at boarding school watching a British and Irish Lions match where Jason Robinson scored against Australia, as well as being at a match where England played against New Zealand when David Rees kicked an audacious chip over the legendary Jonah Lomu to reclaim the ball and score in the corner.

Foden also attended the rugby academy at Sale where he would see the likes of World Cup winners such as Jason Robinson, someone he would go on to play with.

So what does the rugby ambassador recommend those interested in rugby should do?

“First and foremost there is always the desire to get young people involved in rugby and Emirates is a very good example

of that with this competition. Secondly, get some tickets to see a game, whether an international or at your local rugby club. I’ve made friends for life and there is an opportunity if you have the work rate and the talent to go somewhere in the game there’s a good career at the end of it.

“If you want to take on that challenge then one day maybe you could run out in a world cup of your own.”

The competition isn’t just limited to England however, and teenagers from Dubai, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Ireland, Italy France and Scotland will be selected to lead out their national teams through a variety of competitions. In Australia, former wallabies captain George Gregan launched the competition to find the lucky teenager on Channel 9, and Chester Williams started the search in South Africa. Each will join winners from the UK at the tournament.

Emirates also has innovative Fan Zone activities planned, including a 360 degree picture booth so fans can have a virtual stadium keepsake, and exciting competitions in the stadiums at each RWC2015 match.

The Find the Flag competition is par t of Emirates Rugby World Cup 2015 Worldwide par tnership, building on the brand’s rich rugby heritage and extensive por tfolio of top-class rugby sponsorships.

It first sponsored Rugby World Cup 2007 in France as a Tournament Sponsor, then became a Worldwide Partner for Rugby World Cup 2011 in New Zealand, and became the first Worldwide Partner to sign an agreement for both Rugby World Cup 2015, and 2019 which will be held in Japan.

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Follow the Find the Flag competition on Emirates social channels and for more details about Emirates sports sponsorship visit emirates.com/sponsorship

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D E S T I N A T I O N

MADRID Starting August 1, Emirates will operate an A380 service to Madrid.

Enjoy our guide to the Spanish capital The best way to tackle this cosmopolitan city is to do as the locals do. Madrileños are famous for their energy, and you’ll need bags of it to explore the best of what the city has to offer.

The vibrant Spanish capital is best experienced with a hunger – in all areas. You could be sampling local cuisine at the Mercado de San Miguel in the morning, wandering the ar t exhibitions of the Prado Museum in the afternoon, and then losing yourself to Madrid’s infamous nightlife of tapas-tasting

and lounge-hopping in upmarket Gran Vía until it’s time for breakfast again.

You’ll find that food is taken more seriously here than in any other part of Spain. In fact, it’s home to Restaurante Botín, the oldest, still operating, restaurant in the world, as well as one of Europe’s most exciting restaurant scenes, where the best meal of your life could come from a Michelin-starred chef or hole-in-thewall tapas joint. The excitement lies in trying it all.

EAT

STAY

DO

RESTAURANTE BOTÍN This charming spot near the Plaza Mayor has been open since 1725, and is the oldest restaurant, still running, in the world. The great Romantic painter Francisco Goya reportedly worked here in 1765; and Hemingway was a fan. The house specialty is meat roasted in a cast iron wood-burning stove. botin.es

HOTEL RITZ BY BELMOND If it’s old-school glamour you want, head for a hotel built at the request of King Alfonso XIII. The roll call of guests who’ve checked in here includes celebrities, politicians and presidents. The service is impeccable – linger in the lobby lounge for afternoon tea or dine in the magnificent setting of the Goya Restaurant. ritzmadrid.com

RELAX IN PARQUE DEL RETIRO When you fancy a break from the hustle and bustle of the city, there are plenty of leafy parks for a relaxing stroll. Parque del Retiro, near the Plaza de la Independencia, is particularly beautiful – a 19th century park with green spaces, a large pond and a ‘palace’ that hosts exhibitions and art shows.

DIVERXO Madrid’s only three Michelinstarred restaurant is special – the only thing edgier than the decor is the mohawked owner Chef David Munoz. The menu draws from a range of cuisines, including Spanish, French and Japanese and the unusual combinations, such as wasabi ice cream, all turn out brilliantly. Book well ahead. diverxo.com/en

VILLA MAGNA This quiet and elegant boutique hotel is home to two of the best restaurants in Madrid: Restaurante Villa Magna and Tse Yang. The rooms are lavish (think huge beds and marble baths), there’s a lovely spa, and the lively lounge and its adjoining terrace are popular with both locals and guests. villamagna.es

CASA LUCIO (SPANISH) Casa Lucio offers a slice of Madrid history. Opened in 1974, it’s owned and run by Lucio Blazquez, who began working there aged 12 when it was still the Meson del Segoviano. Today it maintains its old-fashioned charm in the face of big competition. Don’t leave without trying the huevos estrellados (smashed eggs). casalucio.es

AC PALACIO DEL RETIRO If you want to splash out somewhere truly special while in the city, this boutique hotel in Madrid fits the bill. Located in an early 20th century building with stunning views of the Parque del Retiro’s green spaces, you can expect impeccable service and spacious rooms. It also a great base for your adventures. marriott.com

TRAWL SOME ART GALLERIES Madrid is home to one of the world’s largest art galleries: the Prado Museum, which contains more than 9,000 pieces. Once you’re done exploring, head over to Reina Sofia and the ThyssenBornemisza – together the three make up Madrid’s famous Golden Triangle of Art. museodelprado.es/en EMBRACE THE NIGHT Madrid is a city for night owls.

This is the type of place where dinner doesn’t start until late in the evening and the mingling rarely stops before morning.

If you enjoy socialising in lounges, cafes and music venues, you’ll be spoilt for choice. The highlights include Club Musée, a nightlife venue that doubles as a stunning art gallery.

Club Musee: +34 620 64 25 39

EMIRATES STAFF TIPS FOODIE HOTSPOT For the best overview of our local dishes, visit Mercado de San Miguel.

Try the torilla, paella and more.

David Gonzalez Sanchez First Officer B777

HISTORICAL MADRID A quick historical tour of the city could start at Calle Preciados. You can then head down to the square Puerta del Sol, befaore closing your trip at the end at the Cathedral of Almudena.

Diana Sosa Cabin Crew

Starting August 1, EK141 will be operated by an A380, leaving Dubai at 0:740hrs and landing in Madrid at 13:40hrs the same day. The return flight EK142 leaves Madrid at 15:30hrs and lands in Dubai at 00:45hrs the following day.

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C O M F O R T

WELLNESS IN THE AIR To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips.

Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time on board with Emirates today.

SMART TRAVELLER

DRINK PLENTY OF WATER Rehydrate with water or juices frequently. Drink tea and coffee in moderation.

TRAVEL LIGHTLY

WEAR GLASSES

Carry only the essential items that you will need during your flight.

Cabin air is drier than normal, therefore swap your contact lenses for glasses.

BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition.

Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications?

Get a good night’s rest before the flight.

Eat lightly and sensibly.

AT THE AIRPORT

USE SKIN MOISTURISER Apply a good quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.

KEEP MOVING Exercise your lower legs and calf muscles.

This encourages blood flow.

DURING THE FLIGHT

Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in.

Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress.

Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

Chewing and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent.

Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy.

Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently.

Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

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MAKE YOURSELF COMFORTABLE Loosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body.

WHEN YOU ARRIVE Try some light exercise, or read if you can’t sleep after arrival.

V i s a s ,

q u i c k

c o n n e c t

Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle free as possible.

CUSToMS DECLARATIoN FoRM All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

ElEctronic SyStEm for travEl authoriSation (ESta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Programme, You must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure.

ESta factS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending.

A successful ESTA application is valid for two years, however this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport. apply onlinE at www.cbp.gov/ESta nationalitiES EligiblE for thE viSa waivEr*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom** * SubjEct to changE ** only britiSh citizEnS qualify undEr thE viSa waivEr programmE. | 108 |

Your home in Dubai

• • • • • • • •

Located in the heart of Dubai Opposite Metro Station Walking distance to Burj Khalifa, world’s tallest skyscraper Dubai Airport - 15 min Abu Dhabi Airport - 45 min Walking distance to shopping malls Close to Business Hubs (DIFC and DWTC) Spa and Outdoor Swimming Pool

Sheikh Zayed Road, P.O Box 116957 Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 4 323 0000 | Fax: +971 4 323 0003 www.emiratesgrandhotel.com

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q u a r a n t i n e

i n f o r m a t i o n

Cut the queue at JFK with quiCK ConneCt If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service. US Customs and Border Protection Agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.

Follow theSe StePS:

1

2

3

4

have your boarding card or ticket for your connecting flight ready for the ground staff as you exit.

You’ll be given a Quick Connect card. Continue to the Quick Connect queue in the Arrivals hall.

After passport clearance, claim your baggage and clear US customs, regardless of your final destination.

If your bag is tagged to your final destination, hand it to emirates staff at the transfer counter for your onward flight.

quarantine in australia Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card.

You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left on board. Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.

quarantine in Japan Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items.

You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if: • you have recently been to a livestock farm • are bringing livestock products into Japan • your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock the counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer. | 110 |

U A E

S M A R T

G A T E

BE SMART! USE UAE SMART GATE AT DUBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES

UAE

Andorra

Australia

Austria

Bahrain

Belgium

Brunei

Canada

Denmark

Finland

France

Germany

Greece

Iceland

Ireland

Italy

Japan

Kuwait

Liechtenstein

Luxembourg

Malaysia

Monaco

Netherlands

New Zealand

Norway

Oman

Portugal

Qatar

San Marino

Saudi Arabia

Singapore

South Korea

Spain

Sweden

Switzerland

*UK

USA

GO THROUGH IMMIGRATION IN SECONDS AND GET YOUR VISIT TO DUBAI OFF TO A FLYING START Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International airport by using UAE Smart Gate.

If you hold a machine-readable passport, UAE Emirates ID card or E-Gate card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds.

Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International airport.

USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

1

Have your UAE Emirates ID card, E-Gate card or machine-readable passport ready to be scanned

2

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, you can scan your UAE Emirates ID card. If you have an E-Gate card place it into the E-Gate slot

OK!

3

Go through the open gate, stand in the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan.

When finished, the next set of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim

*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY:

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer. That’s it! Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you landed. | 112 |

• Machine-readable passports from the above countries • UAE Emirates ID cards • E-Gate cards

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DUBAI EMIRATES TOWERS, 14TH FLOOR, SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD P.O. BOX: 9055, DUBAI, UAE TEL: +971 4 330 4343 | FAX: +971 4 330 3993 contact@emiratesadvocates.com | www.emiratesadvocates.com ABU DHABI Tel: +971 2 6394446 auh@emiratesadvocates.com

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WITH AFFILIATE OFFICES IN SAUDI ARABIA, QATAR, BAHRAIN, KUWAIT AND OMAN

FOR 24 HOUR LEGAL ASSISTANCE, PLEASE CALL +971 (50) 328 99 99

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NEW ROUTES: Multan: four-times weekly service starts August 1 Orlando: daily service starts September 1 Bologna: daily service starts November 3

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THE FLEET Our fleet contains 236 aircraft made up of 222 passenger aircraft and 14 cargo aircraft BOEING 777-300ER

Emirates is the world’s largest operator of this aircraft, which joined the fleet in 2005.

Number of Aircraft: 105 Capacity: 354-442 Range: 14,594km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 64.8m

BOEING 777-300

Since 1999, Emirates operates two and three-class versions of the 777-300.

Number of Aircraft: 12 Capacity: 364 Range: 11,029km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 60.9m

BOEING 777-200LR

Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 266 Range: 17,446km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m

BOEING 777-200

In 2005, the Boeing 777-200LR set a new world record for distance travelled non-stop when it landed at Heathrow airport, London, after a journey of 21,601km (11,664 nautical miles) from Hong Kong - the long way round. Emirates received its first 777-200LR in August 2007.

Emirates’ first Boeing 777-200 joined the fleet in 1996.

Number of Aircraft: 7 Capacity: 274-346 Range: 9,649km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 60.9m

BOEING 777F

Number of Aircraft: 12 Range: 9,260km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet | 120 |

The most environmentally-friendly freighter operated today, with the lowest fuel burn of any comparablysized cargo aircraft. Along with its wide main-deck cargo door which can accommodate oversized consignments, it is also capable of carrying up to 103 tonnes of cargo non-stop on 10-hour sector lengths.

AIRBUS A380-800

Emirates has operated the A380 since 2008, and is the world’s largest operator of this aircraft. In 2014, 13 Emirates A380s joined the fleet.

Number of Aircraft: 64 Capacity: 489-517 Range: 15,000km Length: 72.7m Wingspan: 79.8m

AIRBUS A340-500

This ultra-long range passenger airliner was introduced to the Emirates fleet in 2003. This saw the launch of the First Class Suite which has since been rolled out on the Boeing 777 and Airbus A380.

Number of Aircraft: 1 Capacity: 258 Range: 16,050km Length: 67.9m Wingspan: 63.4m

AIRBUS A340-300

Similar in many respects to Emirates A330-200s, the A340-300 is equipped with four engines giving it an enhanced range.

Number of Aircraft: 4 Capacity: 267 Range: 13,350km Length: 63.6m Wingspan: 60.3m

AIRBUS A330-200

First added to the fleet in 1999, this aircraft operates predominately on shorter-haul routes.

Number of Aircraft: 19 Capacity: 237-278 Range: 12,200km Length: 58.8m Wingspan: 60.3m

BOEING 747-400ERF

Number of Aircraft: 2 Range:9,204km Length: 70.6m Wingspan: 64.4m Aircraft numbers through end July 2015 | 121 |

This aircraft is capable of carrying up to 117 tonnes. The deck-side cargo door, with a height of approximately three metres, allows the uplift of oversized shipments that cannot be accommodated in the belly-hold of passenger aircraft. The nose door allows the carriage of long pieces.

E n t E r t a i n m E n t

CAPTION COmPeTITION

E-mail your captions for this cartoon to openskies@motivate.ae with ‘CAPTION COMP’ in the subject line. The winning caption will be published in the August issue.

WINNeR: SARAh AmOR Oh, 22, SINgEr, SINgAPOrE

“travelling light.” | 122 |

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