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contents / May 2014
46 38
We travel to Lisbon to take a walk down one of the city’s most vibrant streets, Rua Dom Pedro V
Finnish songwriter Jaakko Eino Kalevi shares his favourite tracks
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Former elBulli chef Albert Adrià reveals his favourite places to eat in Barcelona
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Checking in to one of London’s most famous hotels, The Savoy
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Visiting a familyrun independent cinema in Paris
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Open skies / May 2014
57
Our comprehensive guide to Houston, Texas
63
Meeting the Sharjah Art Foundation team that has put the emirate on the global art map
contents / May 2014
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Underground Art
Front (23) Calendar The Grid The Question The Street Skypod
25 34 36 38 46
The Room Consume BLD Mapped Local Knowledge
Main (71) Cinema Paradiso Underground Art
48 51 54 57 63
brieFing (93) 72 83
News Comfort Visas & UAE Smart Gate Route Map The Fleet Last Look
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edItor-In-CHIeF ManaGInG partner & GroUp edItor edItorIal dIreCtor GroUp edItor edItor desIGner sUB edItor edItorIal assIstant edItorIal Intern
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ContrIBUtors Christopher Beanland, Andrew Birbeck, Geoff Brokate, Gemma Correll, Pedro GuimarĂŁes, hg2.com, Melodie Jeng, Neha Kale, Jamie Knights, Danna Lorch, Louis Pattison, Robbie Porter, REM, Kyle Smart Head oF prodUCtIon S Sunil Kumar senIor prodUCtIon ManaGer C Sudhakar assIstant prodUCtIon ManaGer R Murali Krishnan
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Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.
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102,863 copies – December 2013
Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE
EDITOR’S LETTER
I Gareth Rees, Editor
“GOING TO THE CINEMA, ESPECIALLY IF I HAD ENOUGH POCKET MONEY LEFT TO BUY POPCORN AND A COKE, WAS A TREAT ”
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love any medium that is used to tell stories. I love magazines, of course; I love newspapers, especially at the weekend; I love music, particularly Bob Dylan – a storyteller par excellence; and I love books – my first great love, and one that has stood the test of time. I am also addicted to well-written television series (Mad Men, Boardwalk Empire, Game Of Thrones, Breaking Bad). All of these wonderful narrative vehicles are enjoyed on my own, or, in the case of television, sometimes with my wife. But my other great love, film, is best enjoyed in company. I vaguely recall being taken to see Snow White, or perhaps it was Bambi, in the cinema when I was very young – if my memory serves me right, which it probably doesn’t, it was the first film my father saw in the cinema, and so it was fitting for it to be my first, too. But it was the films of the late 1980s and early 1990s, the movies I saw with my father and younger brother, or a group of excited friends, that I remember most clearly: Ghost Busters II (1989), Honey, I Shrunk The Kids, (1989), Bill & Ted’s Bogus Journey (1991), Hook (1991), and, the most hyped of them all, Jurassic Park (1993). Going to the cinema, especially if I had enough pocket money left to buy popcorn and a coke, was a treat – something truly exciting. A visit to the cinema with friends was something you did for your birthday before, if you were lucky, going bowling. For me, though I am now fortunate enough to have the funds to go more often, and make a point of never eschewing the joy of salty popped corn and a carbonated beverage (I usually order a hot dog with mustard, too, just because I can), the cinema is still special. Purchasing the tickets, taking a seat in a room full of strangers, the sound of rustling fast food packaging, and then, the dimming of the lights, the glow of the screen as it bursts into life, and an hour-and-a-half of magic that, aside from the odd whisperer or mobile phone user (extremely rude), keeps an audience of people rapt throughout. As Barrie
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OPEN SKIES / MAY 2014
ON THE COVER / As you have probably noticed, we chose to use an illustration on this month’s cover. An illustration has not adorned the cover of Open Skies since December 2012, but when our designer, Ralph, and I saw illustrator Kyle Smart’s work, we knew it was right, not only for our ‘Cinema Paradiso’ cover feature, but for the cover itself. Ralph, the team and I hope you agree.
Barton, the co-owner of Sydney’s Golden Age Cinema, says in the wonderful story that Neha Kale has written for this issue of Open Skies, “Film has always been about so much more than what’s happening on the screen.” Quite right. Film is a shared experience. Film is the medium of the masses, the cinema is its home and, for a brief time, every couple of weeks, it is my home, too. Neha has profiled seven singular independent cinemas in seven countries – institutions that don’t just tell stories but have histories, stories of their own. I am sure you’re eager to read Neha’s ‘Cinema Paradiso’, but first, I have to mention this month’s photo essay. Open Skies stalwart Geoff Brokate has taken a series of arresting photographs of the public artworks on display in Munich’s U-Bahn stations; Geoff, the Munich authorities and the artists who created the work deserve to be applauded. Hopefully you will feel the same way about all of our stories once you have finished reading them. Enjoy the issue.
CONTRIBUTORS
SOME OF THE PEOPLE WHO HELPED CREATE THIS MAGAZINE
REGINA WINKLEBRYAN
KYLE SMART
Regina moved to Barcelona, Spain in 2005. Her work has appeared in Endless Vacation, Azure and Afar. Food and drink are two of her passions, and she’s written about wine for Wine Spectator, microbrews for The Oregonian and meatless fideuà for Vegetarian Times. Her book, Eat Guides: Barcelona, was published in 2014. For this issue she spoke to chef Albert Adrià.
Kyle studied illustration at UWE Bristol and painting at the Academy of Arts in Bologna. This gave him a solid grounding in traditional painting and drawing to explore more contemporary ideas with. His clients include Readers Digest, The Wall Street Journal and Variety. Kyle created the illustrations for our ‘Cinema Paradiso’ story, and our cover illustration.
“There’s so much hype around the former elBulli chefs Ferran and Albert Adrià,” she says. “But Albert is a laidback, approachable guy. I found it funny that he sometimes drinks beer with breakfast and has dinner at 8pm – early by Spanish standards.”
“I love the cinema, so it was a rare treat to be able to explore such great subject matter over so many images,” he says. “The main challenge was to keep them visually consistent but distinctive.”
PEDRO GUIMARÃES
Pedro has worked as a photographer for almost 14 years. Since 2010, having lived in numerous European cities and welcomed his first son, he decided to move his studio to Lisbon, the capital of his native Portugal. His work has been published in The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, El País, Die Zeit and Monocle. For this issue he photographed Rua Dom Pedro V. “Accepting the invitation to depict some of the successful businesses around Príncipe Real Park was, above all, a great chance to get to know the area where I work and the people I share the sidewalks with.”
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NEHA KALE
Neha is a Sydneybased freelance writer covering art, design and culture. Her work has appeared in the Sydney Morning Herald, Broadsheet and Vault, and she’s also written travel guides exploring Australian cities for lifestyle publisher Urban Walkabout. For this issue she writes about seven movie theatres championing a global revival in visiting the cinema. “From Bangkok and Rio to Paris and San Francisco, there’s no shortage of interesting independent picture houses, proving that the rise of digital can’t touch the magic of a night at the movies,” she says.
ROBBIE PORTER
Robbie Porter is an award-winning Scottish illustrator. His work has appeared in The New York Times, New Scientist and many other titles. He has exhibited his work internationally, and has also written and illustrated his own children’s book, The Librarian’s List. From this issue onwards Robbie will create the illustrations for our ‘The Question’. “‘The Question’ is an opportunity to be playful with a different subject each month,” he says. “The answers are serious, but they are also written with a certain levity, and the illustrations have to reflect that.”
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Sharjah Art Foundation Discovering the home of the emirate’s art scene
(63)
front LISBON: Exploring the unique stores on one of the Portuguese capital’s most exciting streets BARCELONA: A culinary guide to the city from one of Spain’s most famous chefs
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38 54
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M ay
CALENDAR
May 17 and 18, Kalamassery, India
angelHack kocHi Spring 2014 May 3, Bonn, germany
Rhine In Flames Rhein In Flammen, to give its proper German name, is an annual display of fireworks along the river Rhine in Germany. The Bonn event takes place at the Rheinauen Park on the first Saturday in May, and thousands of Bengal fires light the banks of the river as well as the medieval castles. There are also plenty of places to watch along the promenade in Bonn, while others board illuminated ships to see the full displays from the river.
AngelHack hackathon events are held around the world, giving more than 10,000 developers the chance to enter a HACKcelerator programme, which allows them to showcase their work in Silicon Valley. With games, prizes and demos, as well as all-night coding session, the world of the developer is revealed in all its glory. AngelHACK.Com
rHeIn-In-flAmmen.Com
May 23 to June 1, lisbon, Portugal
Rock In Rio Lisboa 2014 Rock In Rio began in Brazil, but the festival has spread to Portugal and Spain, bringing with it a line-up of world-class acts and a taste of Brazilian culture. Justin Timberlake, Queens Of The Stone Age and Linkin Park are just a few of the headliners scheduled to play at this month’s festival in Lisbon. roCKInrIolISBoA.SAPo.Pt/en
May 14 to 18, Beirut, lebanon
Beirut Boat & Super yacHt SHow
With its new home at the Port of Beirut, Pier 1, the Beirut Boat & Super Yacht Show is a chance to see some of the world’s most beautiful yachts. International exhibitors appear alongside an exclusive luxury section, and there is also live music, boat parties and fashion shows. BeIrutBoAt.Com
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CALENDAR
May 10 to 18, girona, spain
May 24, Lisbon Portugal
Champions League final
girona Flower FeStival
Every year girona opens up a world of hidden courtyards in ancient manors full of beautiful flower displays. this year, those who attend the girona flower festival will also be treated to innovative and exciting menus, put together by local restaurants and boasting dishes such as shrimp salad and petals, homemade burgers with caramelised onions and rosemary flowers and duck breast on a bed of creamy rice with fresh mint flowers.
Football fans will descend on the Estádio do Sport Lisboa e Benfica, or the Estádio da Luz (Stadium Of Light), as it’s known around the world, for the 2014 Champion’s League final this month. The Portuguese capital has only hosted one previous European Champion Clubs’ Cup final, back in 1967 when Celtic FC’s ‘Lisbon Lions’ beat FC Internazionale Milano by two goals to one. uEfa.com
gIronatEmPsdEfLors.nEt
May 16 and 17, st Petersburg, russia
Sergey KuryoKhin international FeStival (SKiF)
sKIf was set up following the untimely death of composer and experimental musician sergey Kuryokhin. the festival promotes contemporary music and arts in russia and features performances, videos and art from various countries, including a large contingent of young talent from st Petersburg.
May 9 to June 1, Italy
Giro d’Italia
KuryoKhIn.nEt/En
The Giro d’Italia is an annual bicycle race held in Italy, but this year the opening stages will take place in Ireland. Riders competing in this UCI World Tour aim to record the lowest overall time for the complete distance. The rider with the lowest time wears a pink jersey. The overall 2013 race winner was Vincenzo Nibali, who rides for the Kazakhstani UCI Pro Team Astana. gIrostart2014.com
Skypod
Jaakko Eino Kalevi page 46 26
Open skies / May 2014
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CALENDAR
May 2 and 3, Hong kong
CHarlie CHaPlin – City ligHts
to celebrate the 125th anniversary of charlie chaplin’s birth, and 100 years since he created his iconic character the tramp, the Hong kong Philharmonic orchestra is presenting two chaplin films at Hong kong cultural centre: City Lights and Kid Auto Races at Venice. Both films feature the tramp. cHarliecHaPlin.coM/en/live_PerforManceS
Until May 25, Madrid, Spain
Masaveu Collection The works of Greco, Bosch, Murillo, Zurbarán and Alonso Cano, among others, are on display at Madrid’s CentroCentro this month. The display is part of the space’s Patronage At The Service Of Art exhibition series and features 64 pieces from one of the most important private collections in Spain. Paintings by anonymous medieval artists share the space with works by Baroque masters. ticketea.coM
May 9 to 11, Hamburg, Germany
HaMburg Port anniversary
May 20 to 22, london, Uk
Clerkenwell Design Week Clerkenwell Design Week – a showcase for the UK and international design community – attracted more than 50,000 visitors and 250 brands last year. This year’s event in London’s Clerkenwell is looking to build on that success with four exhibitions: The Design Factory, Detail, Platform and Additions, which will encompass interior design, furniture and lighting, architecture and plenty more.
the 825th Hamburg Port anniversary is the largest of its kind and celebrates the seafaring traditions of Germany. the event begins with a grand flotilla of tall ships and historical sailing vessels, followed by live music, dragon boat racing on the elbe, a tug boat ballet and spectacular fireworks display. it closes with another parade of ships and plenty of songs, including the Hammonia, Hamburg’s unofficial anthem.
clerkenwelldeSiGnweek.coM
Mapped
Houston page 57 28
Open skies / May 2014
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May 16 to 18, county cork, ireland
ballyMaloe liTerary fesTival
Renowned chefs René Redzepi of noma in copenhagen and yotam ottolenghi are just two of the many gastronomic stars who will be speaking at the Ballymaloe literary Festival of Food And wine. Food lovers will be treated to more than 50 events, while wine connoisseurs can indulge in tastings and talks from celebrated producers. The event, held at Ballymaloe cookery School and Ballymaloe House in east cork, is expected to be the biggest gathering of its kind ever held in ireland. liTFeST.ie
May 16 to 19, Taipei, Taiwan
The Young Designers’ Exhibition The Young Designers’ Exhibition (Yodex) is one of the largest student design fairs in the world. Design colleges and departments from around the globe, including nearly 60 from Taiwan, showcase their skills to thousands of visitors and industry talent hunters. The exhibition covers a wide range of fields, including product design, visual communication design, package design, craft design, digital media design, fashion design and space and landscape design. yodex.com.Tw
May 23 to 25, Singapore
The affordable arT fair
May 8 to 10, Brighton, UK
The Great Escape The Great Escape will see more than 18,000 visitors flock to the south coast of England to witness a weekend of new music from across the world in more than 35 venues in Brighton. The line-up includes Mercury Prize nominee Jon Hopkins, London’s R&B phenomenon Joel Compass and Strokes’ guitarist gone solo Albert Hammond, among others. gReATeScAPeFeSTivAl.com
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Open skies / May 2014
due to its popularity, Affordable Art Fair Singapore has introduced a second event this year that will include a new line-up of artwork from more than 75 local, regional and international galleries. Held at the F1 Pit Building, Republic Boulevard, there will also be a wide range of activities aimed at the whole family on offer. The overarching aim of the festival is to make contemporary art accessible to everyone, with pieces ranging from US$80 to US$8,000. AFFoRdABleARTFAiR.com/SingAPoRe
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May 9 to 12, London, UK
Collect
Daniella Wells, show director of Collect, has been involved with the fair since 2004. Now in its 11th year, Collect is still focused on showcasing the best in contemporary craft
You have been part of the Collect fair since its inauguration in 2004. How has is it developed over the years? From the beginning the Crafts Council wanted to create a very select fair. We’ve never had the ambition of making it enormous and have focused on creating the right platform [for our exhibitors]. The market for collectible contemporary craft has developed a lot over the past 10 years, and Collect has been at the centre of it all. This year you are the show director, responsible for selecting the exhibitors. How did you choose them? I work with external advisors to make sure the selection is right. Alun Graves from the Victoria And Albert Museum is the selection
advisor for the principal galleries, and I’m privileged to have worked with him for many years now. We comb through the artists proposed by each gallery and make sure the selections work, both as a group and in the context of the whole fair. Some years we take a risk on artists and galleries that are less known, and we make sure we listen to suggestions from our galleries. Who is the target audience for the fair? Collect is a sourcing ground for museum curators and discerning collectors, but it is also an amazing exhibition. The range is superb; you can find everything from jewellery made from wood shavings to exquisitely crafted furniture. I challenge anyone to come away from Collect without falling in love with something.
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How affordable are the objects on display? Collect still has affordable pieces; prices start from £500, and many objects are around the £3,000 to £6,000 mark. How many new galleries are taking part this year? We have six new galleries joining us this year from the UK and around the world; it’s always a pleasure to have new faces. In fact all our regular galleries have a commitment to bringing 15 per cent ‘new blood’ to their stand each year, too, which helps to keep things fresh. This year there will be an exhibition to mark the centenary of WW1. What can we expect from that? The Legacy exhibition is a profound comment through two works by Clare Twomey and Julian Stair that celebrate the voice of the everyman. The exhibition will be a peaceful reflection on these individual stories and an important personal insight in the WW1 centenary season. Who are the guest speakers at the event this year? In addition to artist talks in the Legacy exhibition, we’re working with Pindrop – short stories read aloud in amazing settings – this year. These performances look at the power of story telling and will include readings of specially selected texts inspired by Collect. Since 2011 Collect has had alternative spaces designed to provoke debate. What will the spaces display this year? We have seven concept-led installations that I selected with Simon Fraser from Central Saint Martins, University Of The Arts London and Annabelle Campbell, head of exhibitions and collections for the Crafts Council. A lot of the proposals were confirmed via working visuals for entirely new work – it’s a really dynamic part of the fair. collect2014.org.uk
Images: COLLeCT
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THE GRID May 28 Kings Of Leon Dubai, UAE
THE THREE BIGGEST EVENTS TAKING PLACE IN THE UAE THIS MONTH...
Nashville quartet King’s Of Leon, one of the biggest rock bands in the world, will return to the UAE this month for a gig in Dubai. The band are currently touring their latest album, Mechanical Bull, and will perform on the beach at Atlantis The Palm, Dubai. Tickets are on sale now. kingsofleon.com
May 17 Al Gaffal Boat Race Dubai, UAE
May 29 John Bishop Dubai, UAE The Liverpudlian with the whitest teeth in comedy, John Bishop, is set to perform for one night only at the Dubai International Convention and Exhibition Centre. The single show will be good preparation for his 38-day UK tour, which starts in October. johnbishoponline.com
Beginning at Sir bu Nair Island, 50 nautical miles from the shoreline, the climax of the Al Gaffal (meaning ‘The Return’) boat race will see a fleet of 60foot dhows sail into Dubai International Marine Club after eight hours of racing. dimc.ae
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OPEN SKIES / MAY 2014
the question
WHY IS ICE SLIPPERY? We know that a thin layer of liquid on top of ice is what makes it slippery. Water being a lowviscosity liquid means there are no permanent intermolecular bonds, so water molecules can move about freely, which is why you slip and fall over. Question answered? Not entirely. Scientists still haven’t ascertained why this layer of liquid exists no matter how cold the ice is. It was a long-held belief that pressure on the ice increased the temperature enough to turn the ice back into a liquid state. But this would only be the case if the ice was fairly warm already, and it takes a great deal of pressure to raise the temperature even by a couple of degrees. Frank P Bowden and TP Hughes thought they had solved the riddle when they asserted in
TWITTER Q&A
Ghana’s Global Mamas explains itself in 140 characters or less
1939 that friction on ice, e.g. a shoe, caused it to heat up. But while friction does cause heat, it is not enough to melt ice. Back to the drawing board, then. Recently, in a 2005 Physics Today article, Robert Rosenberg put forward the notion that ice has a permanent fluid outer layer as the molecules on the outer layer, that don’t bind vibrate and interact with the interior molecules, causing surface melting. Unfortunately, Rosenberg’s theory is yet to be proved conclusively, so ice, we’re afraid, is still a very slippery subject.
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Open skies / May 2014
@OpenSkiesMag: What is Global Mamas all about? @GlobalMamas: Global Mamas is all about creating prosperity (financial well-being, happiness and health) for African women and families! @OpenSkiesMag: You create and sell your own products. What sort of products are they? @GlobalMamas: We craft handmade, fair trade batik clothing, accessories & home goods, glass bead jewelry & ornaments and shea butter items. @OpenSkiesMag: How long have you been based in Accra, Ghana? Do you have any other stores? @GlobalMamas: Our store in Ghana opened in 2008, and we have many great retail partners in Sweden, Australia, Brazil, Canada, the USA and the UK. @OpenSkiesMag: It’s great the brand is doing so well. How did Global Mamas get started? @GlobalMamas: Two of the cofounders were in the Peace Corps and met the first 6 Mamas through a co-op credit union. @OpenSkiesMag: How many Mamas are there now? How quickly is Global Mamas expanding? @GlobalMamas: Now there are nearly 600! The mama network is growing steadily, but demand is growing faster! :) @OpenSkiesMag: So you are taking the world by storm! Which countries are you hoping to branch out into next? @GlobalMamas: For now, our focus remains in Ghana. There are still so many women in Ghana that need sustainable employment. @OpenSkiesMag: Thanks for talking to us . That’s our last question – unless you have anything else you would like to add? @GlobalMamas: Thank you! We hope everyone will visit our site to learn more about the Mamas and their products!
the street
Rua Dom Pedro V, Lisbon Words by Christopher Beanland / Images by Pedro Guimarães
T
he journey to Rua Dom Pedro V is one of the most dramatic in Europe. Catch the yellow and white Elevador da Glória Carris funicular from Restauradores up to the Bairro Alto, swiftly turning on your heels at the top to take in the startling vista of the city centre laid out before you. Rua Dom Pedro V runs gently upwards to the right, skirting between the Bairro Alto and Principe Real districts, acting as a kind of bridge between the scruffy former and the more refined latter. The street runs northwest towards the Principe Real gardens, where its name changes to Rua da Escola Politécnica. Two names, one street, and one abiding philosophy: creativity meets enterprise. This is one of Lisbon’s hippest shopping streets. For a long time antique dealers had their shops here, and you can see the evidence of that in new shops, such as Manuel Castilho, and old ones, such as Solar. Antiques fill the fascinating 1920s-style bar, Pavilhao Chines, at Rua Dom Pedro 89, and the antiques dealers were the inspiration behind the many gallerists and fashion designers who now base themselves on the street. Finally, don’t forget to take in the buildings on Rua Dom Pedro V, each painted in a unique shade, ranging from red to pink to cream, and each with beautiful cast iron balconies and wooden window shutters.
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Open skies / May 2014
Kolovrat 79 Lisbon has accepted Lidija Kolovrat, owner of Kolovrat 79, as one of its own. Kolovrat was born in 1962 in Zenica, Bosnia and Herzegovina, but she settled in Portugal permanently during the 1990s, when her homeland was torn apart by a bitter sectarian war. Kolovrat is something of a renaissance woman: artist, designer, party thrower. She’s as much at ease making jewellery as clothes. One of her most famous tropes is the “Royalty is the best policy” print, composed of portraits of former kings and queens of Portugal, which you can find in store on accessories and dresses. At this shop, Kolovrat 79 (named for its location at 79 Dom Pedro V) it’s not just about buying Kolovrat’s designs, there are also regular events: classes, concerts and showcases of works by other artists and designers. The Portuguese film Desassossego was even shot here. 79, Rua Dom Pedro V, Lisbon Tel: +351 2 1387 4536 lidijakolovrat.org
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the street
O Prego da Peixaria One of a new breed of hip ‘small plate’ restaurants characterised by limited menus, no reservations policies and reasonable prices, O Prego da Peixaria, up on Escola Politcenica, is similar in style to Mishkin’s or Polpetto in London, where this craze has really reached its apotheosis. But in Lisbon, it’s a novelty, which is why the queues here can sometimes be long. But tough it out, the food will ease the pain of waiting. The menu comprises stomach-fillers such as Portuguese ‘bolo’ buns filled with a variety of lipsmacking fillings: Azores tuna and Algarve salt flower; Portobello mushroom, arugula and tomato; or cuttlefish, salmon and tomato. The scruffy chic décor and young crowd add to the hipster vibe, making it one of the coolest little places in Lisbon for a relaxed dinner. 40, Rua da Escola Politécnica, Lisbon Tel: +351 2 1347 1356 opregodapeixaria.com.pt
Charcutaria Moy There’s a real sense of care and attention to detail at Charcutaria Moy;
the owners really know their food and drink, and they love to share their discoveries with customers. This place is particularly renowned for its teas,
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stocking numerous varieties and brands such as Kusmi, a French boutique label based in Paris that sells some delicious Russian-style teas and fruit-flavoured infusions. To further prove the point that you don’t just have to indulge in Portuguese delicacies here, Charcutaria Moy offers brightly coloured farfalle pasta from Italy, jams and preserved fruits in jars from England, Belgian chocolates and coffees from Africa and South America. But if you do want to buy local delights, fret not: the best Portuguese cheeses and tarts are also on sale, as is the famous port wine from the Duoro. 111, Rua Dom Pedro V, Lisbon Tel: +351 2 1346 7011
the street
São Mamede We think of Rua Dom Pedro V today as being the result of a fairly recent gentrification project, which has seen swathes of Lisbon’s ancient city centre restored and re-invigorated. But São Mamede’s history stretches much further back, to 1968, and it has several locations in the capital, as well as offshoots in both Porto and Amancil, on the Algarve. The gallery is housed in a very old building with brick- arched roofs and stone floors, and Lisbon’s history comes to life through both the art and the architecture here. São Mamede has hosted exhibitions by Portuguese artists such as Areal, Cruzeiro Seixas and Cesariny, and Lisbon, with its unique topography and global culture clashes, is as surreal a town as Barcelona, so it’s no real surprise that Surrealism is always well represented in shows here. 167 Rua da Escola Politécnica Tel: +351 2 1397 3255 saomamede.com
Quiosque de Refresco Kiosks are a Lisbon institution. The small, eccentric structures, usually located on a pavement, or in a park or public square, allow Lisbon residents to interact with their city – to enjoy fresh air, a spot of people watching and a coffee. Lisbon-born journalist Catarina Portas and her friend, the architect João Regal, are renovating many of these previously derelict kiosks. Tipped for success by Monocle, Portas is also the woman behind the shop A Vida Portuguesa and the home brand Ma Casa Portuguesa, but in the past couple of years the kiosks have been her focus. There is one on the corner of Praça do Príncipe Real, close to Rua Dom Pedro V. Quiosque de Refresco serving archly traditional Lisbon drinks, such as flavoured milk with cinnamon and lemon peel, liquorice juice and cold tea, as well as sandwiches filled with sardine paté and cod paté with chickpea cream. Praça do Príncipe Real, Lisbon facebook.com/quiosquederefresco/info
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the street
Espaço B
Solar Whenever you’re strolling around Lisbon you should make sure to look up. The best free art show in Europe will be staring back down at you: Lisbon’s tiled facades. These wondrous works of fired clay are mostly blue and white; sometimes there’s a bit of yellow and green thrown in, too. The tiles adorn many of Lisbon’s buildings, public and private. It’s natural, then, that you might fall in love with them so much that you want to bring
a batch home. And Solar is the place to come if you feel that urge getting the better of you. It’s an atmospheric old place, with cellars and a patio out the back both rammed with tiles in racks. Stocking both new tiles and a variety of antique tiles from different historical periods, Solar is a real treasure trove. Dom Pedro V may be looking forwards, but Solar is happy to look back.
Simplicity never goes out of fashion, and if there’s one boutique on Rua Dom Pedro V that truly embraces the minimalist aesthetic, it is Espaço B. Encased in white walls, a white ceiling and smooth concrete floors, with carefully selected collections of clothing and shoes, this boutique’s pared-down style is reminiscent of an art gallery. Clothes bearing labels such as those of French street couture purveyors Misericordia hang from its rails, while its tables display jewellery by local designers such as Morfologica. It won’t be a surprise to learn that Lisbon power couple José Luís Barbosa and wife Leonor Barata are the interior designers and former stylists behind this chic shop. 120, Rua Dom Pedro V, Lisbon Tel: +351 2 1346 1210 espaco-b.com
68 to 70, Rua Dom Pedro V, Lisbon Tel: +351 2 1048 2358 solar.com.pt
Alexandra Moura In March this year, at ModaLisboa, Lisbon’s growing fashion week, Alexandra Moura cemented her position as one of Portugal’s top designers. The 41-year-old Portuguese exhibited sometimes severe styling in her autumn/winter 2014 collection, accessorising her models with chunky wooden necklaces and bracelets. It won her many admiring notices, and further boosted the profile of her slinky little boutique on Rua Dom Pedro V. The boutique is small but perfectly formed, bare-walled and minimal, elegant and sophisticated – with the fashion taking centre stage, of course. Coats are Moura’s speciality, and Elle’s UK edition recently encouraged readers to come to this very shop to buy their autumn coat, lest they be left out in the fashion (and real world) cold. 77, Rua Dom Pedro V, Lisbon Tel: +351 2 1314 2511 alexandramoura.com
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skypod
JAAKKO EINO KALEVI Genre: Psychedelic pop AGe: 29 City: Helsinki
Finnish songwriter Jaakko Eino Kalevi lives in Helsinki, where he runs his own record label, JEKS Viihde. Kalevi recently released his latest EP, Dreamzone, on Domino Recordings’ Weird World. He shares his favourite tracks
01.
02. 03. 04.
Tlahoun Gessesse Sema
The Modern Lovers Hospital
Ethiopian music has such crazy rhythms and melodies. I like this song especially, because it sounds like he is singing “Ihan sama”, which means ‘whatever’ in Finnish.
I was once sent this song by a girl I had a crush on who didn’t feel the same. Somehow this song described the situation perfectly, although I don’t think she got it.
Tuxedomoon In A Manner Of Speaking
Dory Previn The Lady With The Braid
A ‘cabaret no-wave’ band from San Francisco. The singer Winston Tong sounds like he’s on the verge of tears. Usually I don’t care much about lyrics, but this one is just on-point so bad.
This song always reminds me of an old friend of mine. I first heard it on a compilation called The Trip, which a friend gave me when I was spending time in Venezuela.
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05. 06. 07.
08.
Pleasure Zone All The King’s Horses
Lindsey Buckingham Trouble
T-Rex Cosmic Dancer
Grace Jones Private Life
I’m a fan of medieval fantasy and synth-pop, and this seems to be the perfect combination of the two.
I don’t know much about his solo career, but I like Fleetwood Mac’s songs very much. The melody has really stuck in my head. It makes it easy to imagine what troubles he’s singing about during this time.
This is another song with such great lyrics. I often think about dancing. This has perfect rhythm and chords as well.
One of my favourite Grace Jones songs. Crossover reggae is a tough sport, but lately I’ve been enjoying it more and more.
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jeksviihde.blogspot.fi
the Room
TExT: mArk EVAnS imAgES: THE SAVOY
rOOm 518
THE SAVOY, LOndOn
The Savoy was Britain’s first luxury hotel, built 125 years ago by the famous English impresario Richard D’Oyly Carte. The great and the good made it their hotel of choice, and former guests include George Gershwin,The Beatles and Winston Churchill. Dubbed ‘London’s most famous hotel’, the grand old place has lost none of its charm, from its iconic front entrance (the only street in London where cars drive on the right, not the left side of the road, a throwback to the days of the hackney carriages) on The Strand, to its grand lobby, complete with equally grandiose period furniture. The rooms are no less impressive; our twin suite consisted of a bedroom, dressing room and a huge bathroom, complete with under floor heating, shower room and traditional roll top bath. Look out of any of the suite’s four sash windows, and you’ll see views sweeping down the river Thames and Embankment towards the Houses Of Parliament, with the London Eye – constructed in 1998 – a stone’s throw away. Throw a stone in the opposite direction, and you’ll hit Covent Garden, with the equally popular tourist spot of Trafalgar Square just a short walk away. fairmont.com/savoy-london
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INTERNET: Free PILLOWS: 4 CLUB SANDWICH DELIVERY TIME: 16 mins COMPLIMENTARY SNACKS: fruit, mineral water TOILETRY BRANDS: Cowshed EXTRAS: Coffee, selection of magazines (Monocle, Esquire, Vanity Fair) TV CHANNELS: 40 VIEW: 5/5
THREE NEW HOTEL OPENINGS
sHANGRI-LA HOTEL, AT THE sHARd London, UK
The Shangri-La Hotel, At The Shard, will be the chain’s first UK property and the tallest hotel in Western Europe. The 202 rooms will occupy floors 34 to 52 of Renzo Piano’s 1,004-foot building, with the 52nd floor housing an indoor infinity pool and spa. the-shard.com/shangri-la
AL’s GRANd HOTEL
THE ARLINGTON HOTEL
Al’s Grand Hotel is returning after 43 years, as an art exhibition. The pop-up installation is open for four days from May 8 to 12. The re-imagining of Allen Ruppersberg’s unique 1970’s budget B&B will be temporarily located on Randall Island in LA.
Closed for six years, this landmark hotel, built in 1850, reopens this month. The 164-year-old building has 24 rooms, a café-bar and a restaurant offering a menu of dishes created using locally sourced ingredients.
Los Angeles, UsA
Ontario, Canada
thearlington.ca
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Aaron Basha Boutique ͻ 685 Madison Avenue ͻ New York ͻ 212.644.1970 ͻ w w w. a a ro n b a s h a . co m Athens
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Dubai
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Hong Kong
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Italy
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Kiev
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London
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Moscow
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Qatar
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Asia Jewellers Bahrain ͻ Ali Bin Ali Qatar ͻ Harrods London ͻ Levant Dubai
Tokyo ͻ
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Toronto
Louvre Moscow
consume albums
SHEEZUS Lily Allen
Pop Named Sheezus in homage to Kanye West’s 2013 LP Yeezus, the third album from British pop darling Lily Allen is her first in five years. Our Time, the third single from the singer-songwriter’s new album, was released in March. Allen’s cover of Keane’s Somewhere Only We Know will feature as a bonus track.
GHOST STORIES Coldplay
alternative rock After 2011’s Brian Eno-produced Mylo Xyloto, Coldplay are expected to return to their roots for their sixth album. A video for the single Midnight was unexpectedly released in February, before the album was announced.
TURN BLUE The Black Keys
blues/rock Ohio rockers The Black Keys announced the release of their eighth album via a Mike Tyson tweet featuring a link to a YouTube video clip of a hypnotherapist and a spinning pink record. The album’s first single, Fever, was released in March.
IN THE LONELY HOUR Sam Smith
R&b/Pop British singer-songwriter – and winner of the BBC Sound Of 2014 and BRIT Critic’s Choice awards – Sam Smith’s debut album will feature 10 tracks, including previously released singles Lay Me Down and Money On My Mind.
books
ABOVE THE EAST CHINA SEA Sarah Bird
Fiction Sarah Bird’s tenth novel draws parallels between the lives of two girls living in Okinawa seven decades apart: Tamiko, in 1945, and Luz, in the present day.
SMALL ARCHITECTURE NOW! Philip Jodidio
architecture Architectural writer Philip Jodidio’s compendium of small buildings features diminutive architectural gems ranging from beach huts to dollhouses.
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THE TASTEMAKERS David Sax
Food Canadian journalist David Sax’s report on the ever-changing world of culinary trends, fad diets and super-foods delves into why we eat what we eat and how culinary trends emerge.
consume THE CINEMA
Studio 28 Paris, France Questions: Andrew Birbeck / Answers: Owner/director of Studio 28, Alain Roulleau
cinema-studio28.fr
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ImAgeS: StudIO 28
FAMILY BUSINESS / Studio 28 owner Alain Roulleau (above with director Claude Lelouch, left, and actress Audrey dana, right) is the third generation of his family to run the cinema
Can you tell us a little about the Roulleau family’s involvement with Studio 28? My father, who was a film producer, bought the cinema in 1948, although it dates back a further 20 years. I’m the third generation of the family to be involved, and I worked there from a very young age. I grew up just behind Studio 28. In fact, the building adjoins the apartment where I still live. You worked for United Artists and 20th Century Fox. What prompted you to leave all that behind and return to your roots? I was a publicist for both of those companies for many years. Then, in 1994, when my uncle, who was then running the cinema, died, I took a year out to see if Studio 28 really could survive, and even flourish. Maybe I wanted to fight against the modern way of screening movies, you know, big multiplexes and so on. Or perhaps I just love this old movie theatre. I’ve known it for such a long time, it’s part of me. Did you ever consider selling up? No, for me it’s too full of nostalgia, but it’s also full of ghosts. My grandmother died at the cashier’s desk after selling the last ticket for the evening show. One night many years later, my father passed away suddenly after the day’s final screening. Maybe I’ll go the same way, but I don’t plan to. Who knows, perhaps someday one of my sons will take over from me. I hope so. You’ve made considerable improvements. How did these come about, and what does the future hold? Back in 1994 it really needed some freshening up and, most importantly, new ideas. First came redecoration – revamped decor, new seats, upgraded projection system – and then a programme adapted to the current market. After that I created a café-bar with an adjoining patio. The next step is to buy the premises next door and build a whole new reception area. What’s been your proudest moment and why? There are so many terrific memories it’s hard to choose. A real highlight, though, was when Marion Cotillard came to present the Edith Piaf biography she starred in and won an Oscar for, La Vie en Rose (2007). Every Tuesday evening is fantastic, too, as that’s when my great friend and neighbour, the film director Claude Lelouch, drops by. Jean-Pierre Jeunet’s homage to Montmartre, Amélie (2001), featured Studio 28. Did you meet Audrey Tatou? Jean Pierre did shoot a sequence here and, yes, I met Audrey. She was unknown back then but already had that special star quality – her eyes, her smile, very unassuming and completely natural. Why go to Studio 28? It’s a unique, relaxing and completely authentic Parisian experience. It’s also the oldest cinema in Paris and has never closed since first opening. Studio 28 is the place for film-gourmets.
BLD
Barcelona
IIMAgEs: AlBErT AdrIà
Former elBulli chef Albert Adrià’s Barcelona-based restaurants Tickets and 41° Experience both recently earned Michelin stars. He shares his favourite places to eat in the Catalan capital
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B
l
d
BREAKFAST
LUNCH
DINNER
In Spain we don’t have much of a breakfast culture. And, honestly, because I spend the whole day eating and sampling, the last thing I want to do is go and eat a big breakfast. During the week I have a strawberry and banana smoothie before work. But, for me, the perfect way to begin the day is with an Iberian ham sandwich and a half pint of beer. I spend most of my time working near La Boqueria, so I often go to El Quim or Pinotxo Bar inside the market. For a sweet breakfast I head to Escribà or Granja M Viader; I love their ‘bikini’ (ham and cheese sandwich).
At Suculent they serve the ‘real’ Catalan and Spanish food that tourists are after: traditional and authentic tapas. I don’t order when I go there; I trust the chef and let him choose. Vermouth is like a religion for me, and I always start with it at Suculent, along with some chips and olives. It’s a pre-meal moment to catch up with friends. Around 2.30pm we move on to the main courses.
Unlike most Spaniards, dinner is the most important meal of the day for me. Also, I eat early, at 8pm. If I go out for dinner with a group of friends, I always choose a Spanish restaurant, but if it’s just my wife and me, we change it up and try new things. One of my favourite places nearby is Dos Palillos (Japanese-Spanish tapas), run by Albert Raurich, who was with us at elBulli. They serve some of the most sophisticated food in Spain.
Rambla del Raval 43, Barcelona +34 93 443 6579 suculent.com/suculent
Granja M Viader Carrer d’en Xuclà 6, Barcelona +34 93 318 3486 granjaviader.cat.mialias.net
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Dos Palillos Carrer d’Elisabets 9, Barcelona +34 93 304 0513 dospalillos.com
mapped Oak Forest/Garden Oaks
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SEDAWATTA
Greater Heights
Greater Fifth Ward
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Houston 03
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02 River Oaks
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Bellaire
West University Place
University Place
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Southside Place
Houston
Hotels: 1) Hotel Sorella (29.780160 , -95.561587)
Restaurants: 5) Oxheart Houston (29.767856 , -95.354092)
Bars: 9) Anvil Bar & Refuge (29.743120 , -95.396865)
Galleries: 13) The Museum of Fine Arts (29.725342 , -95.389703)
They say that everything is6)bigger Texas, and Houston is no exception. The sprawling 2) Hotel Granduca The Pass &in Provisions 10) Captain Foxheart’s Bad News Bar and city covers 14) Contemporary Arts Museum Houston (29.757755more , -95.45836) (29.758913 Lodgethings to do is proportional (29.726454 turf than some US states, and, -95.385581) the diversity of places toSpirit go and to its , -95.391511) (29.761986 , -95.361173) massive scale. Visitors to Texas’ largest city will find relaxed cowboy culture, alongside sophisticated, 3) The Lancaster 7) Underbelly 15) Pearl Fincher Museum of Fine Arts (30.011728 , -95.50961) (29.761481metropolitan , -95.364697) (29.744948 -95.392978) 11) Camerata at Paulie’s cool. Houston’s bars,and restaurants rank among America’s best, while its excellent (29.742859 , -95.406145) museums mean there’s equal time for cultural pursuits as well as down-home relaxation. 4) Hotel ZaZa 8) Brennan’s Houston 16) The Menil Collection (29.724289 , -95.390108) (29.743015 , -95.381353) 12) 3rd Floor (29.737759 , -95.398477) (29.749037 , -95.376126)
HOteLs
restaurants
bars
GaLLerIes
01. Hotel sorella 02. Hotel Granduca 03. the Lancaster 04. Hotel ZaZa
05. Oxheart Houston 06. the Pass & Provisions 07. underbelly 08. brennan’s Houston
09. anvil bar & refuge 10. Captain Foxheart’s bad news bar and spirit Lodge 11. Camerata at Paulie’s 12. 3rd Floor
13. the Museum Of Fine arts 14. Contemporary arts Museum Houston 15. Pearl Fincher Museum Of Fine arts 16. the Menil Collection
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HOteLs 01 Hotel Sorella Sleek enough to be in New York yet still definitively Texan, there are plenty of ways to beat the heat at Hotel Sorella. From walk-in showers to rooftop cabanas and infinity pools, luxury here has an aquatic element. hotelsorella-citycentre.com 02
Hotel Granduca Houston is far from the Mediterranean, but Hotel Granduca, modelled on an Italian villa, imparts a genuine feel of la bella vita. When you’ve had your fill of relaxing on a poolside chaise longue, its northern Italian restaurant might tempt you indoors. granducahouston.com 03 The Lancaster Open since the 1920s, The Lancaster was once a Jazz Age mainstay. It’s still possible to imagine flappers shimmying in the Theatre District landmark, though spacious suites and renovated features ensure modern visitors are just as well looked after. thelancaster.com 04 Hotel ZaZa Hotel ZaZa isn’t shy when it comes to interior design. Bold concept suites range from the SoHo Loft to the lunar Houston We Have a Problem, while a luxurious pool and spa round out an inventive array of boutique offerings. hotelzaza.com
BIG CITY / In typical Texas style, Houston is bigger than some US states
restaurants 05 Oxheart James Beard awardnominated chef Justin Yu is rumoured to be a vegetable whisperer, and under his hand humble legumes sing. Yet the modern American restaurant is still carnivore friendly serving plates such as roast sirloin with black tea. oxhearthouston.com 06
The Pass And Provisions Two restaurants in one, The Pass And Provisions are a prime destination for visiting foodies. While the latter is an accessible, anytime spot, the former specialises
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in playful combinations of ingredients such as uni with bone marrow and hamachi. passandprovisions.com 07 Underbelly Underbelly’s aim is to “tell the story of Houston food”, but that narrative stretches beyond BBQ and Tex-Mex to accommodate thrilling Asian flourishes that reflect the city’s changing community. Plates such as Korean braised goat and dumplings capture the fusion ethos perfectly. underbellyhouston.com 08 Brennan’s A cousin of several New Orleans restaurants, Brennan’s provides a masterclass in Creole cooking. Going strong for four decades, it still serves classic regional plates, from shrimp remoulade to turtle soup, alongside a helping of southern hospitality. brennanshouston.com
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C R A F T C A R E F U L LY . D R I N K R E S P O N S I B LY. Woodford Reserve Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, 45.2% Alc. by Vol., The Woodford Reserve Distillery, Versailles, KY Š2014
L E A R N M O R E A B O U T O U R F I V E S O U R C E S O F F L AV O R
W O O D F O R D R E S E RV E . C O M
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Anvil A leader on the city’s cocktail revival scene, Anvil is, shall we say, enthusiastic about drinks. Take the 100-strong cocktail list as evidence of its fervour, though its friendly bar staff and appetising snacks make it comfortable for lounging, too. anvilhouston.com 10 Captain Foxheart’s Bad News Bar And Spirit Lodge Captain Foxheart’s perfectly exemplifies Houston’s curious mix of laidback cool and urban sophistication. At this woodpanelled speakeasy, the drinks are highbrow, but the outdoor patio scene is perfectly relaxed. twitter.com/BadNewsBar 11 Camerata In a sea of beer and cocktail bars, Camerata steps up to the plate to represent the city’s wine scene. This cosy nook offers more than 100 bottles, while the menu even highlights wines best suited to the Houston weather. pauliesrestaurant.com/camerata
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3rd Floor On sunny Houston days when the humidity doesn’t level you, drinking and dining al fresco is as good as it gets. 3rd Floor, located on a terrace, is perfect for taking in skyline views while sipping American-made beers and wines. 3rdfloorhouston.com
14 Contemporary Arts Museum Houston Located in a sleek, stainless steel building in Houston’s Museum District, the Contemporary Arts Museum is celebrating its 65th anniversary this year. Come for its blockbuster temporary exhibitions – up to 10 are planned annually. camh.org 15 Pearl Fincher Museum Of Fine Arts Those curious about Houston’s native art scene flock north to the Pearl Fincher Museum Of Fine Arts. While the museum displays work from diverse eras and cultures, many of its exhibitions highlight local Texan artists. pearlmfa.org 16 The Menil Collection Housed in a Renzo Pianodesigned structure that is itself a destination for visiting art lovers, the Menil Collection houses more than 15,000 works, including masterpieces by Max Ernst, Andy Warhol and René Magritte. menil.org
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Words: hG2.com imaGes: corBis, Getty imaGes
GRILLING TRADITION / houston boasts a diverse food scene that includes many fine traditional texas BBQs
13 Museum Of Fine Arts, Houston Not just Houston’s definitive stop for culture vultures but also one of the largest museums in the United States, the Museum Of Fine Arts houses more than 60,000 masterpieces that range from antiquity to modernity. mfah.org
LOCAL KNOwLEDGE
Sharjah Art Foundation Sharjah Art Foundation has managed to connect with both the international art community and a local audience, with regular exhibitions of work by world-class artists from across the globe
S
harjah Art Foundation (SAF) is based in the heart of the city’s heritage area. It is a maze of alleyways, and the walls, constructed from natural coral, once provided homes to earlier generations; that was before the discovery of oil changed everything
Words by Danna Lorch / Images by REM
and the residents of Sharjah moved to brand new villas in other parts of town. Today, several black arrows direct visitors through the alleyways to a series of light filled courtyards and gallery spaces. Resplendent in bright tiles, decorated with Arabic calligraphy, Al Zahra Mosque holds court nearby, and the imam’s
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call to prayer washes over the neighbourhood like pure poetry, grounding SAF’s modern architecture in the footprints of the past. Sheikha Nawar Al Qassimi, who directs the SAF’s public relations and community outreach, is impossibly cool – the kind of unflappable person you would want to be around in a
LOCAL KNOwLEDGE
ART SPACE / Sharjah Art Foundation features several galleries, numerous courtyards, an outdoor theatre and a rooftop exhibition space
medical emergency. She greets us in a pair of trendy turquoise sunglasses and slumps in an office chair. SAF, like Sheikha Nawar, is appreciably accomplished yet charmingly unaffected. “We’re all totally accessible on Instagram and Twitter, even Hoor [Sheikha Hoor Al Qasimi], who is SAF’s president and director,” she says. “We don’t hold
exclusive VIP events or collector’s openings. Everything we do is free and open to the public.” Despite the informal culture, Sheikha Nawar emphasises that SAF is a serious enterprise. “You can visit us and view work by many of the same artists you would see at international museums such as the Tate Modern in London or the
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Museum Of Modern Art in New York, but in a completely different setting.” It’s not unusual to encounter an installation by the Indian artist Anish Kapoor, one of Hassan Hajjaj’s hip hop influenced photographs, or the latest solo show by Saudi-based powerhouse Ahmed Mater in the galleries here.
LOCAL KNOwLEDGE SAF has its roots in the Sharjah Biennial, a vanguard exhibition that began in 1993 and will take place next in 2015. Established in 2009 to support the expanding Biennial, the current art spaces were only fully unveiled a year ago. Much of the foundation’s vision can be attributed to the young but pioneering Sheikha Hoor, whose childhood and teenage years were marked by her visits to the Sharjah Biennial, culminating in an appointment as co-curator of the 2003 edition with artist and curator Peter Lewis. One guest at the last Biennial who was given a private tour by Sheikha Hoor confided that the attention to detail was so meticulous that it was tempting to slip off one’s shoes before stepping into the space, just as though she were entering the Sheikha’s private home. With an evident curatorial gift, Sheikha Hoor has just been confirmed as curator of the UAE Pavilion for the 2015 Venice Biennale.
SAF preSentS workS thAt Are thought provoking while keeping in line with trAditionS And vAlueS The progressive SAF may seem peculiarly out of context in Sharjah’s heritage area, but Sheikha Nawar doesn’t see the disconnect between tradition and contemporary art. “SAF presents works that are thought provoking while keeping in line with traditions and values,” she explains. In truth, the emirate has always been an innovator when it comes to the arts and has a long history of serving as a haven for experimental artists and curators. Because of support from Sharjah, The Emirates Fine Arts Society was established in the 1980s, and the organisation’s
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community has consistently provided local artists such as Hassan Sharif and Mohammed Kazem with the freedom needed to push boundaries. There are 18 museums in Sharjah, and the public feels such ownership over the area’s artistic identity that the Sharjah Biennial is often referred to simply as “Our Biennial”. The SAF spaces are open from 10am to 10pm Saturday to Thursday, as well as 4pm to 10pm on Friday, so that everyone is able to visit. The courtyards and alleyways come alive in an entirely different way in the evenings, and some installations are best appreciated in the moonlight. An outdoor theatre regularly screens Arab indie films, and a new urban garden has added an area of peaceful greenery. “The most satisfying thing about my role is seeing the area’s residents come to feel a real sense of ownership over SAF,” Sheikha Nawar says. “Neighbourhood kids MOVIE NIGHTS / SAF’s outdoor theatre (below) hosts regular film screenings
LOCAL KNOwLEDGE
ROYAL fAmiLY/ Sheikha Nawar Al Qassimi (pictured) works alongside her cousin Sheikha Hoor, SAF’s president and director
have wandered in and come back again and again. They know that this is their space to the point that a group of them felt confident enough to spontaneously get up and rap onstage one night at Sharjah Biennial 10.” One of the foundation’s strengths lies in appealing to both the global arts community and local residents. The interests of these groups are not always divergent. Over the course of the most recent Biennial, as part of a residency, Egyptian artist Wael Shawky began a project titled Dictums 10:120. Collecting phrases from rhetoric-rich curatorial lectures and translating the words into Urdu, Shawky composed a song in the tradition of a qawwali, a classic Sufi chant. Along with professional musicians, a group of mainly Pakistani SAF staff delivered the collaborative devotional to a
rapt audience in one of the area’s alleyways. A recording of the performance replays in one of the gallery spaces this spring. As a foundation (in contrast to a gallery or a museum), SAF frequently takes on the philanthropist’s role of commissioning artists through residencies, grants and exhibitions, culminating in the completion of special projects that are sometimes added to the organisation’s growing collection. One product of a commission, a structured geometric sculpture by Pakistani-British artist Rasheed Araeen has been mounted outside the entrance to Building 1, as if to invite the neighbourhood’s inhabitants and international visitors alike to interact with and even critique the work. Inside the gallery, the retrospective Before And After Minimalism explores the artist’s 50-year journey from modest watercolours to the abstract paintings and engineering-inspired sculptures he is known for today.
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Neighbourhood kids have waNdered iN... They kNow ThaT This is Their space Anyone who attends shows at SAF – from the labourer on a day off to the CEO of a hedge fund – is presented with a set of books containing images and text related to the current exhibitions. In an interview with Sheikha Hoor, printed in the retrospective’s book, Rasheed Araeen confesses, “I never wanted to be an artist. I became an artist because art pushed me into it.” By engaging the public with open access to these spaces, SAF is sparking the flames needed to push the next generation of artists forward. Near Zahra Mosque, Art Area, Sharjah Tel: +971 6 5685 050 sharjahart.org
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WIN Fairs Make You WIN 05 - 08 June 2014 TÜYAP Fair Convention and Congress Centre İstanbul / Turkey
İmalat endüstrisinin kazandıran 3 uluslararası fuarı
METAL WORKING ( International Machine Components and Metal Working Fair) WELDING (International Joining, Welding and Cutting Technologies Fair) SURFACE TREATMENT (International Surface Treatment Technologies Fair)
Organizer
Hannover-Messe Bileșim Fuarcılık A.Ș.
Supported by
www.win-fair.com
Phone : +90 212 334 69 00 +90 212 324 44 43 Email : info@hf-turkey.com info@bilesim.com.tr
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THESE FAIRS ARE ORGANIZED WITH THE PERMISSION OF THE UNION OF CHAMBERS AND COMMODITY EXCHANGES OF TURKEY IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE LAW NUMBER 5174
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CINEMA PARADISO: Seven independent cinemas in seven different countries UNDERGROUND ART: An impressive public art project in Munich’s U-Bahn stations
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Thomas Edison was the original overachiever. In 1894, the fabled inventor, best known for conceiving the electric light-bulb, patented the Kinetoscope – a device that allowed viewers to experience moving images through a peep-hole – before showing travel scenes and celebrity footage to spellbound audiences at a music hall in New York. One hundred-twenty years later, the word “Picturehouse” – spelled out in cool blue neon – marks an unassuming facade on a sun-dappled Sydney street. The sign may lure passers-by into the former Paramount Pictures building, but it also signals the power of celluloid magic, a force that’s grown beyond Edison’s makeshift cinema to overcome the limits of technology, distance and place. “These days, you can watch whatever you want very cheaply or free from your home,” says Barrie Barton, the co-owner of the Golden Age Cinema, the velvet-lined theatrette housed in the building’s basement that in every way lives
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up to the promise of the sign. “But what’s missing is the experiences that exist around watching a movie [in a theatre]. Film has always been about so much more than what’s happening on the screen.” Barton isn’t alone in this theory. The Golden Age, which invites patrons to sip flawless Americanos while watching everything from 1960s thrillers to Sophia Coppola’s latest offering, is only one example of the global resurgence of the oldfashioned picturehouse. Whether this trend will weaken our Netflix addiction – 44 million subscriptions and rising at the last count – is yet to be seen. But there are certainly benefits to watching a movie in a theatre rather than at home, especially if that cinema happens to be an independent enterprise. Social researcher and founder of Australia’s McCrindle Research Mark McCrindle believes that independent cinemas increase the chances of stumbling upon a film that speaks to you, much like unearthing hard-to-
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find vinyl at a record store or a dusty paperback that goes on to become a personal classic. “Independent and arthouse theatres allow people to ‘discover’ a movie and share their recommendation with friends, an approach that’s different from the mass distribution associated with watching movies online,” he explains. For Dr Lisa Ethridge, senior lecturer in Media and Communication at Melbourne’s RMIT University, sitting with a laptop in the dark can’t compete with the joys of being part of an audience. “Independent theatres continue the tradition of the cinema as a gathering place where people can meet to talk over ideas relating to the film,” she explains. “They let viewers share a space together, laugh, wonder, form a collective mind and share a collective dream.” Dotted everywhere from the backstreets of Paris to Bangkok’s electric Siam Square, these one-ofa-kind picturehouses prove that this collective dream is alive and well.
Golden AGe CinemA S y D N e y
If there’s a fine line between the sentimental and nostalgic, then the Golden Age navigates it with aplomb. The 55-seat basement cinema might be based in a heritage-listed building that was once the epicentre of Australia’s film industry, but it’s less interested in recreating the past than in showing Sydney cinephiles how old-fashioned rituals can deepen modern-day film appreciation. “We wanted to create something for a modern audience that stayed true to historical DNA while avoiding clichés,” says Barton, who established the Golden Age in 2013 and whose previous ventures have included
Rooftop Cinema, a venue that combines open-air movies with 360-degree views of the Melbourne skyline. “We knew that it was something we had to tackle through design.” Together with his brother Robert and a local cast of interior designers and furniture makers, Barton set about re-imagining the theatrette, a dusty space that hadn’t been used since 1971, by installing antique theatre chairs from Zurich and building a moody, thirtiesinspired bar that’s the perfect backdrop for an anticipatory cocktail or post-film discussion. Barton maintains that the bar, which offers buttery leather
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banquettes and salted caramel sundaes, was the element of the Golden Age that was hardest to get right. “The bar is really beautiful and brand new but feels like it was always part of the building. That was the hardest thing to achieve creatively,” he says. However, the Golden Age’s focus on reacquainting audiences with the thrills of an evening at the pictures isn’t limited to the pleasures of a pre-movie drink – it also invites viewers to buy tickets to classics such as American Graffiti and Creature From The Black Lagoon at original, pre-inflation prices. ourgoldenage.com.au
Roxie TheaTeR
S A N Most of us have a friend with a knack for unearthing obscure, mind-bending movies, but for those of us who don’t, there’s always the Roxie. A long-time fixture of San Francisco’s graffiti-etched Mission District, the freewheeling picture house, which was founded by a disgraced watchmaker in 1909 and screened adult films in the late sixties, is a lesson in the art of cult. “We like to screen the coolest, weirdest stuff from the past, present and future,” laughs Mike Keegan, the Roxie’s programming director. “Since every movie you’ve ever wanted to see is basically available for free online, we want to make you feel like you’re going to the house of a friend who knows you
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and wants to show you something cool that they think you will like.” Although the Roxie’s shoestring selection of cinema treats is limited to candy, soda and popcorn, when it comes to audacious programming, the theatre punches above its weight. The cinema, which regularly hosts discussion panels and Q&A sessions with filmmakers, screened the world’s first film noir retrospective and early work by indie wunderkinds Joe Swanberg and Alex Ross Perry, along with art house gems such as Danish director Nicolas Winding Refn’s breakout crime drama Drive. Keegan, who’s a fan of old films that reflect a certain time and place, says that inventive cinema is only
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one element of a memorable Roxie screening. The theatre is equally notorious for parties and events that bring the city’s film community together and speak to the zeitgeist. “In a couple of weeks we’re showing the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles in 35 mm, a documentary about outlaw motorcyclists in Baltimore and some Wes Anderson movies, with all-youcan-eat pizza,” Keegan says. “We once Skyped Roman Polanski from Paris during a screening. Ten years from now, there may only be a couple of cinemas in every city – an old movie palace, a nice multiplex and hopefully a scrappy, seatof-the-pants organisation like us.” roxie.com
La Pagode P A R i s
Unfolding on the banks of the River Gauche and lined with candlelit bistros, pocket-sized florists and Eiffel Tower vistas, Paris’ seventh arrondissement is an exercise in Gallic fantasy. However, nothing sums up the neighbourhood’s ability to transport you to another realm quite like La Pagode, a Japaneseinspired cinema that was built by the director of the city’s Bon Marche department store as a gift to his wife in 1895. The movie theatre, which features gilt dragon sculptures, intricate ceiling frescos and red velvet seating, also represents an Asian spin on the typical Parisian art house – although it screened early works by French New Wave masters such as Jean Cocteau in the 1960s, it also host premieres by directors visiting from Japan.
“We regularly feature Japanese cinema along with films by art house directors such as Pedro Almodóvar and David Cronenberg,” explains Marie Durand, director of events and partnerships at Etoile Cinemas, La Pagode’s operator. “And we also premiere local films such as Les Garçons Et Guillaume, A Table!, which stars French theatre actor Guillaume Gallienne.” But a history of championing some of the world’s most celebrated filmmakers is only one explanation for La Pagode’s role in Paris screen culture. Durand says that the cinema regularly holds master-classes with directors such as Robert Bresson, along with a cinema club that includes movies and debates based on
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important cultural moments. Tired of the intellectual stimulation? You can always sip rose tea in the theatre’s miniature Oriental garden. For Durand, La Pagode’s silver screen credentials come second to the sense of escape promised by the cinema’s Japanese Room, an otherworldly viewing space adorned with chandeliers, stained glass windows and tapestries. “Every time you visit the Japanese Room, you can’t help but marvel at a new detail – whether it’s a new animal on a painting on the wall or a sculpture near the door,” Durand says. “Even if you’ve been visiting the cinema for ten years, it takes you by surprise every time.” etoile-cinemas.com/pagode
R i O On Rio’s Copacabana beach, where an endless expanse of white sand has given way to faceless hotel chains and a rainbow of sun-worshippers, tourism risks eroding the precinct’s status as hub for the city’s cultural life. Luckily, Cine Joia, a rebellious picturehouse intent on celebrating the city’s film culture, has made it its business to keep the beachfront’s creative energy alive. Although Raphael Aguinaga, the filmmaker and entrepreneur responsible for restoring the colourful 1960s cinema in 2011, is passionate about screening Brazilian and international independent films, opening the 87-seat theatre up to
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other kinds of performances is also part of his mission. “As the oldest operating street theatre in Rio, we are known for the high quality of our programming, but we also believe in hosting other forms of artistic expression such as poetry, music and drama in our space,” he says. This means that a typical week at Cine Joia could include a free screening of the De Niro classic Taxi Driver, the premiere of Brazilian documentary Trampolin du Fort or a night of slam poetry. The theatre also champions Rio’s cultural events – in 2013, it aired a series of films exploring inner-city graffiti culture to coincide with the city’s annual Urban
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Art Fair, and it plans to acquaint Brazilian audiences with the work of eight Middle Eastern filmmakers by hosting the Arab Film Festival this year. Cine Joia, which involves its audiences in a bi-monthly fanzine that celebrates local film culture, is equally intent on shaping the next generation of film enthusiasts. “Education is a really big issue in Brazil. We believe that movie theatres can also serve as classrooms, and we often screen documentaries to student groups in the morning,” Aguinaga says. “We’re a small theatre with big ambitions.” cinejoia.wordpress.com
Scala cinema B A N G k O k
Navigating the five-minute journey between the Siam BTS station and the Scala, a lavish picturehouse established in 1969, calls for an aversion to everything that makes Bangkok intoxicating: throngs of people, bustling street vendors and an endless sea of neon. But stepping inside the marble foyer, a space characterised by soaring ceilings, giant bronze flowers and a staircase that seems to float in mid-air, is proof of the Thai capital’s tranquil second face. “The Scala’s architecture is a combination between East and West and represents a harmony between two different worlds,” says Suchart Vudthivichai, the cinema’s long-time creative consultant. Vudthivichai works
closely with proprietor Nanta Tansacha, whose stage actor father Pisit Tansacha built the 1,000-seat picturehouse – a perfect union of Thai modernism and tropical Art Deco – during the cinema construction boom that swept the country during the 1960s. Although it’s been nearly half a century since Tansacha doled out ice-cream to Friday night moviegoers, the Scala’s original spirit has remained intact – an attendant manning a woodpanelled booth jots down your seat number on a ticket stub and a grinning usher, wearing a lemon-yellow tuxedo, makes sure you find your seat. The fact that you can purchase a ticket and box of popcorn for around US$4 nods to a pricing approach that’s as insistently retro as the decor.
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However, the Scala, which swapped its 35mm projector for a state-of-the-art digital system in 2013, is fiercely committed to pleasing modern-day audiences. “We screen a wide variety of movies and relentlessly search for good art films and fine documentaries along with first-run studio films, Oscar and Golden Globe winners,” explains Vudthivichai. For Tansacha, the threat that this silver screen oasis may be demolished is no match for the faith in her family’s legacy or the loyalty of her staff, many of whom have worked with her since the 1970s. “Our family has been in the entertainment business since my birth and movies are our heart and soul,” she says. apexsiam-square.com
The Phoenix L O n d O n
Perched on an unremarkable high street in northwest London, the Phoenix Cinema is a real-world testament to British film history. The elegant single-screen cinema, which also happens to be the United Kingdom’s oldest purpose-built movie theatre, has played host to everything from silent films set to live music and 1920s jazz movies to cult 1970s films such as Easy Rider, screened via a hulking two-reel projector. It’s 255seat auditorium also doubled as a refuge for locals during the London Blitz. “The Phoenix was built in 1910, and in 2010 we completed a major centenary restoration project where everything was restored to its original
beauty,” says Elizabeth Taylor-Mead, the cinema’s executive director. “The walls display incredible murals, and instead of wide seats with cup holders, we have old-fashioned seating in keeping with the style of the cinema. That’s what makes it unique.” However, that’s not the Phoenix’s only unusual feature. The cinema steers clear of the surly customer service that’s sometimes associated with multiplexes and prides itself on employing staff with a personal investment in the picturehouse’s future. “Our staff are all artists passionate about the part independent cinema plays in the community,” she explains. “If you’re standing in line to buy your
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ticket, they’re happy to talk to you about the film. It makes for a warm and intimate atmosphere.” The Phoenix also extends its focus beyond its regular attendees, working with local schools, holding special workshops and running a programme for people with autism. “We really believe that film is the most democratic of all the arts,” she says. “If you look at the history of cinema, it brought together people who didn’t speak the language, who were in a difficult economic situation or were trying to figure out what they were doing with their lives. It was a way reflecting the reality of the life they were living.” phoenixcinema.co.uk
Regal Cinema M u M B A I
In Mumbai’s sepia-toned Colaba Causeway, where crumbling architecture shares sidewalk space with billboards advertising the latest broadband plan, it’s difficult to distinguish signs of modernity from the faded grandeur of a colonial past. But the Regal Cinema, an Art Deco picturehouse that attracted British aristocrats in the 1930s and whose clientele includes expats, students and artists that make up Mumbai’s rising creative class, signals the ways in which the city’s history has paved the way for its current evolution. “The Regal Cinema was the first air-conditioned theatre in Asia and also one of the first places you could
watch English-language films,” says Rafique Bagdhadi, a well-known Mumbai film critic and local historian. “You booked your ticket a week in advance and when you visited it was like you were going see Hamlet at the theatre. It felt like it was an event.” However, this sense of occasion was sparked just as much by the Regal’s refreshments as it was by the movie hall’s opulent interior, which includes a mirror-lined lobby and a main auditorium accented with orange and jade sunbursts courtesy of Czech artist Karl Schara. “There were soda fountains, vendors selling samosas, sandwiches and chai and there would always be music playing in the
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background,” Baghdadi recalls. “You paid your money and you always felt like it was worth going there.” These days, the Regal – which aired the first Laurel And Hardy film in 1933 – shows a mix of English and Hindi films, from large first-run features to Bollywood fare, but Baghdadi fears that this isn’t enough for local audiences. “Once upon a time, a single-screen cinema would run a film for one or two weeks but multiplexes changed the whole way of looking at cinema,” he says. “The Regal still stands but it’s not quite what it used to be.” in.bookmyshow.com/cinemas/ regal-cinema-colaba/RGCM
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PhotograPher geoff Brokate’s remarkaBle Images show that, thanks to an amBItIous PuBlIc art Project, the munIch u-Bahn Is aBout much more than gettIng from a to B
n 188 cities around the world billions of passengers are whisked around by underground rail networks every day. While these systems often offer practical and economical ways of getting around our increasingly congested cities, they are rarely places we pause in wonderment. In the mid 1980s, the Munich government made the decision to begin using public spaces for artistic expression. Rolf Schirmer, from the subway planning council, felt that the stations should “radiate a positive mood” and that “the use of artistic elements should help make a passenger’s wait more pleasant, something that cannot generally be said of subterranean, mostly artificially lit, spaces”. The ongoing collaboration between The Munich Transportation Company, renowned architects and local and international artists has resulted in a remarkable collection of unique designs that bring to mind subterranean science fiction movie sets and Abstract Expressionistic colour-scapes. Explorations of the city’s underground system reveal seemingly endless buried architectural wonders; curves that draw the eyes to follow and fingers to trace; colours and patterns that jolt or calm the mind; shapes and images that fire the imagination and textures that point to the past and the future. Unlike many of Europe’s old cities and their antiquated subways, Munich’s underground railway system is relatively new. Work began in 1964 and construction was stepped up to meet the deadline of the 1972 Summer Olympics. On October 19, 1971, the first line was opened between Kieferngarten and Goetheplatz covering 12 kilometres. The U-Bahn now spans more than 95km, reaching out to the city’s extremities and transporting 1.5 million people a day and 368 million annually. There are plans to continue its expansion. Prior to the Second World War, the Bavarian capital relied upon trams to transport the public; early plans for an underground system were scrapped in 1941 as the war took hold of the country. Eventually the ground traffic through the city reached a peak and the underground became a necessity. The most exciting art and design are on the U1 and U2 lines, where the most modern stations can be found. Over the last 40 years the concept of public space has changed from Modernist cement structures, to using contemporary techniques to create a transportation experience that removes the passenger from the mundane into the surreal. Gunnar Heipp, the head of strategic planning at MVG (Munich Transportation Company), explains the city’s philosophy: “The older lines were constructed with the view towards continuity, maintaining a similar look throughout the stations. Now the philosophy is that every station is individually designed, giving each station its own distinguishable character.”
Westfriedhof Westfriedhof opened in May 1998 and is located on the northern section of the U1 line. Situated in the district of Moosach, the station name translates as ‘western cemetery’, referring to the famous nearby cemetery containing many traditional sculptures and period architecture, which was laid out in 1898. In contrast to the classical pieces found in the cemetery above, the station, designed by the architecture firm Auer-Weber, is wonderfully surreal, making it a popular photography and film location. The unique lighting concept, created by Ingo Maurer, was not installed until 2001, but the lighting complements the architectural features perfectly, as 11 dome shaped lamps measuring 3.8m in diameter bathe the station in blue, red and yellow hues. The walls of the station were left untreated, so they took the shape of the bare earth, stone and rock. With its natural, organic look the station to feel like an underground cave. Westfriedhof is an experience like no other and is a big hit with the locals, who recently voted it their favourite U-Bahn station.
Am HArt Am Hart, opened in November 1993, is on the U2 line and is located in the borough of Milbertshofen-Am Hart in north Munich. The station runs parallel with Knorr Street and is opposite the BMW research and technology centre and museum. The station was designed by the architecture firm Hilmer and Sattler, established in Munich in 1974, and the lighting concept comes from Werner Lampl, an expert who lectures in modern lighting technology. Lampl has managed to create perfect harmony between his lighting concept and the simple architectural design. The ceiling of the platform consists of curved aluminium panels, creating a flowing wave that moves into the distance and covers the width of the platform like the wingspan of a giant bird. A line of central pillars bisects the platform, creating a channel for the two rows of lights to follow. The station is filled with indirect light, which is absorbed and refracted off the wing curve of the ceiling. The walls are covered with blue glass tiles, and the inclusion of the red band that typifies stations on line U2 creates an effective colour counterpoint. Despite consisting of a simple design and colour pallet of red, white and blue, Am Hart has a distinctive character that makes it stand out from the other stations on the U-Bahn.
Candidplatz This station was opened in November 1997 in the district of Untergiesing on the southern section of the U1 line. It is named after 16th century artist and sculptor Peter Candid, who worked in Munich and the surrounding area on many churches, creating altarpieces and paintings. The architectural firm Egon Konrad had to find creative solutions to the obstacles that arose during construction of this station. It is under a busy section of Munich called Candid Bridge, and the platform required extra reinforcing, which is why the station has a hat-shaped ceiling. It also runs alongside a sewage system, which gives it its curved lines. The central columns are covered with stained glass, coloured to match the rainbow-splattered walls created by artist Sabine Koschier. Koschier was asked to neutralise the harshness of the underground construction, so she decided to give the station life by covering it with the colour spectrum, beginning the process by using photographs from nature and arranging them by their essential colour. She then blurred them to such an extent that they took on a painterly look. The natural colour tones are at once uplifting and soothing, and soften the hardness of the geometric design.
Oberwiesenfeld Oberwiesenfeld opened in October 2007 and is located at the northern end of the Olympic Park on the U3 line. The building of the Olympic area took place on a large industrial area called Oberwiesenfeld, which used to contain an airfield and army barracks. This area no longer exists, but the station remains a monument for locals who have watched their city evolve and be shaped by its population’s changing demands. The station is an elongated space, which doesn’t contain any columns for support. The space inspired Rudolf Herz, the artist commissioned to put his fingerprint on Oberwiesenfeld, tp create his piece, Ornament; through manipulation of perception and movement he was able to exaggerate and add to the expansive nature of the space. On one of the walls Herz used black and white panels that appear to be random, until the passengers make their way off the platform. The magic of the piece is that the wall appears to move and shape itself into what is eventually revealed to be a labyrinth. On the opposing wall are orange panels, a colour theme that is continued through the stations on the U3 line.
Dülferstrasse This station was opened in November 1993 and is located at the northern end of the U2 line. Dülferstrasse is a main road in the borough of Hasenbergl, and it’s named after a famous mountaineer, Hans Dulfer (1892 to 1915), who was known for inventing his own abseiling technique. As one of the earlier stations to be adorned with public art, it has a simple yet very effective design. Architects Peter Lanz and Jürgen Rauch have designed a wonderfully symmetrical station with central columns decorated with aqua glass panels. Compared to the imposing, futuristic scale of the design elements in other stations, Dülferstrasse has a delicate and intimate feel that creates a chic look reminiscent of 1920s art deco. The stained glass panels along the sidewalls of the station were created by Ricarda Dietz, a popular local artist who has made her career from creating public art. The panels mirror each other along both walls forming a colourful rainbow gradient like the rhythmic unravelling of a colour wheel.
GeorG-Brauchle-rinG The first in a new generation of artist-designed stations, Georg-Brauchle-Ring opened in October 2003 and is on the U1 line, located in the northwest on the border of the Moosach and Milbertshofen districts. It is named for Georg Brauchle, who from 1960 to 1968 was deputy mayor of Munich. He was involved in urban development planning, including overseeing the construction of the U-Bahn and the transportation plan for the 1972 Olympics. The artist Franz Akerman was commissioned to install his concept entitled The Great Journey. The two walls running along the platform are transformed by 400 metallic colour panels, creating a patchwork grid integrated with prints of photographs, paintings, postcards and maps referring to different places around the world. It is a dramatic space that feels like a giant kaleidoscope or Rubik’s Cube. The use of popart colours enlivens the giant space, which is free of pillars. Its reflective ceiling of polished stainless steel makes its 7.5m walls appear more like a vast open concert hall than an inner city underground station.
Olympia-EinkaufszEntrum Olympia-Einkaufszentrum, or ‘Olypmic Shopping Centre’, is at the junction between the U1 and U3 lines. The station is located in the district of Moosach and connects to a large shopping centre, which was built during the construction boom of the 1972 Games. Both platforms were designed by the architecture firm Betz. At first glance, this station doesn’t look to be one of Munich’s most avant-garde, but as you pass through the large open concourse and head to the lower level of the U3 line, you discover an original design with bold colours, shapes and textures that are like a cross between a pop art sculpture and a futuristic military defence system. Along the walls covering the length of the platform are tiny stainless steel pyramids. Each triangular shape reflects the light in different directions, depending on where the viewer stands. It creates a shimmering effect, which adds movement and rhythm to the experience. The upper walls are coloured blue, with suspended yellow ellipsoid shaped casings, which hold the lighting fixtures. This station is a major hub with a lot of traffic and the design adds some respite from the hectic atmosphere of shoppers and commuters.
Hasenbergl Hasenbergl opened in October 1996 and is situated at the north-western end of the U2 line. The Hasenbergl district was once known for its low-income social housing estates, poor infrastructure and lack of transport links to the city centre, but through new construction projects, such as the extension of the U2 line, the quality of life has increased and the district has been successfully reinvented. The futuristic design is in clear contrast to the past reputation of the area, an indication of the city’s intention to transform and bring attention to this borough. The station was designed by architecture firm Braun, Hesselberger + Partner, with the original lighting designed by Kramer Lighting. The centre point of the station is a suspended mother of pearl lenticular sail, and the overall effect is something like a space station with the mothership coming in to land. Below the reflective surface of the sail is a ring of florescent light that illuminates and echoes its teardrop-like shape sending out atmospheric indirect light. The surrounding walls are basked in blue reflective light, while the white granite floor is dissected by black patterned triangles that look like the floor of a grand monument, creating a balance between classical architecture and futuristic vision.
Emirates launches iPad app Emirates aims to make travel even easier with its new app
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briefing OSLO DAILY: Emirates announces its third Scandinavian gateway CITY GUIDE: Our guide to Amman ROUTEmAp: Discover the world as connected by Emirates
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news The emiraTes app Launches on ipad
emiraTes has Launched a new ipad app. Available from the App
Store, it will allow passengers to manage all aspects of their flight bookings from wherever they are in the world. The app has been released in a bid to make flying easier for busy travellers, and enables users to buy flights, manage existing bookings, select their seats, choose their meals and manage their Skywards frequent flyer accounts on the move. Through the free service, boarding cards can be downloaded directly, ready to print, or a mobile boarding card can be emailed straight to a phone
or tablet for paperless scanning at the gate. An internet connection is not required – as details and service information are stored within the app, so it can be used offline. There is also map with a ‘Live Flights’ feature, which gives the exact location of any Emirates flight around the world, so users can have fun setting alerts and tracking the status of incoming or outgoing flights. In addition, the application offers information about other Emirates’ services, via its interactive experience of in-flight amenities. There is also a reservation facility
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where First Class and Business Class passengers can arrange a complimentary chauffeur to greet them on arrival, and passengers will also be able to register for Emirates Skywards membership and explore more than 140 of Emirates’ destinations. Emirates is now working to make the app available on iPhone and Android, and looks forward to introducing hundreds of additional features that will make flying with Emirates easier and more fun.
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briefing
news EMIRATES A380 SET TO TAKE OFF AT ROLAND GARROS SpECTATORS AT THIS YEAR’S FRENCH OpEN ON 27TH MAY WILL bE pRESENTED WITH A bIRD’S EYE VIEW OF THE ON-COURT ACTION bY EMIRATES’ A380 AERIAL CAMERA.
The replica A380 will be positioned 45 metres above the home of French tennis, Stade Roland Garros, during the French Open tournament, and will travel along a 350 metre cable running across the stadium. The A380 camera weighs 60kg and took nearly two months to build. The model and camera pay homage to the Emirates A380, which currently flies twice daily to Paris. Emirates is an Official Partner of Roland Garros, having announced a five-year sponsorship deal in 2013. Having proved a hit at last year's tournament, the aerial camera in the shape of the iconic aircraft will return for a second appearance in 2014.
EMIRATES TO LAUNCH NEW DAILY SERVICE TO OSLO EMIRATES WILL LAUNCH A NEW DAILY SERVICE TO OSLO, NORWAY, ON 2ND SEpTEMbER. Oslo will be the airline’s
third destination in Scandinavia, and its launch is part of Emirates' ongoing expansion in northern Europe. A Boeing 777-300ER offering eight First Class seats, 42 Business Class seats and 310 Economy Class seats will operate direct flights daily. Throughout all cabin classes, passengers can enjoy over 1,600 channels of entertainment on demand on ice, the airline's awardwinning in-flight entertainment
system. Passengers on all Emirates’ flights also have generous baggage allowances with 30 kilogrammes for those travelling in Economy Class, 40 kilogrammes for Business Class and 50 kilogrammes for First Class.. Emirates passengers flying from Norway will experience the convenience of a non-stop connection to Dubai, which enjoys onward flights to a further 21 passenger destinations in the Far East and Australasia, 15 destinations in West Asia, three destinations in the Indian Ocean and 17
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destinations in the Middle East. With transfers from Dubai, customers from Norway will also be able to experience the famous Emirates’ flagship A380, which also connects to 11 destinations in the Far East and Indian Ocean, including some of the most popular locations in the world: Bangkok in Thailand, Singapore, Mauritius, Kuala Lumpur and Hong Kong. The launch of the new Oslo route will follow the launch of Kano and Abuja in Nigeria on 1st August and Chicago on 5th August.
RESPECTED GLOBALLY PREFERED LOCALLY MEDICLINIC MIDDLE EAST OPERATES: • Mediclinic Welcare Hospital • Mediclinic City Hospital • Mediclinic Dubai Mall • Mediclinic Ibn Battuta • Mediclinic Meadows • Mediclinic Arabian Ranches • Mediclinic Mirdif • Mediclinic Al Qusais • Mediclinic Beach Road • Mediclinic Al Sufouh • Mediclinic Corniche
EXPERTISE YOU CAN TRUST. UAE • SOUTH AFRICA • NAMIBIA • SWITZERLAND www.mediclinic.ae
briefing
news EMIRATES OPENS 35TH DEDICATED LOUNGE IN ROME
EMIRATES CELEbRATED THE OPENING Of ITS 35TH DEDICATED LOUNGE AT LEONARDO DA VINCI AIRPORT IN ROME LAST MONTH.
Emirates currently operates 42 weekly flights in Italy, and the opening of the new lounge in Rome follows the opening of another one at Milan Malpensa Airport in 2013. Rome was Emirates’ first Italian base – operations commenced in 1992
– and it is the only Italian city served by Emirates’ flagship A380 aircraft. The lounge is the largest at Rome’s Leonardo da Vinci Airport, providing seating for 156 customers and covering an area of 920 square metres. Guests can enjoy an extensive open buffet of gourmet dishes from both Italy and around the world, as well as a complimentary full-bar
Get to your gate on time Don't miss your flight Please make sure you get to your boarding gate on time. Boarding starts 45 minutes before your flight and gates close 20 minutes before departure. If you report late we will not be able to accept you for travel.
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service including premium wine, spirits and champagne. Other services include a fully equipped business centre with Wi-Fi connection, TV and reading areas, shower facilities and a prayer room. The lounge will be a welcome addition for Skywards Gold and Platinum members, as well as First Class and Business Class passengers.
emiraTes a380 experience comes To dubai
The emiraTes a380 experience opened in dubai lasT monTh. The
Middle East's first public A380 flight simulator, located in The Village at The Dubai Mall, was opened on 14th April by His Highness Sheikh Ahmed bin Saeed Al-Maktoum, Chairman and Chief Executive, Emirates Airline & Group. Visitors to the Emirates A380 Experience will be introduced to
the aircraft's flight deck, giving them the chance to experience taking off from and landing at 12 of the world's busiest airports, including Amsterdam, Hong Kong and Paris, in different weather conditions. This is the second such project for Emirates. The first Emirates Aviation Experience opened in London in 2013.
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HH Sheikh Ahmed also opened the latest Emirates Official Store, the airline's 10th retail location in the region, and its first outlet in a mall. The store carries the full range of Emirates merchandise, including model aircraft, travel accessories and football shirts from the international teams sponsored by the airline.
briefing
City Guide AmmAN Emirates will launch a third daily flight to Amman this August. Enjoy our guide to Jordan's capital city
EmIRATES WILL LAUNCH ITS THIRD DAILY FLIGHT TO AmmAN, JORDAN, ON 1ST AUGUST. As one of the most
popular tourist destinations in the Middle East, Emirates has been flying to Amman for 28 years, but there is still no shortage of things to see and do in Jordan’s capital city. Tourists come from far and wide to experience Jordan’s worldrenowned attractions such as Petra and the Dead Sea, but the capital has just as much to offer, from archaeological sites to the vast array of culinary delights offered at its many restaurants, which reflect the city’s large multicultural population.
ROmAN THEATRE Just a few minutes walk from downtown Amman, the restored Roman Theatre is one of the most spectacular remnants of the Roman
city. The theatre, built during the reign of Emperor Antonius Pius (138 to 161AD), is cut into the hillside and seats approximately 6,000 people. Restored in the mid-20th century, the Roman Theatre is deservedly one of the city’s most popular tourist attractions. The theatre is still used for performances today.
THE ROYAL AUTOmObILE mUSEUm Whether you’re a car fanatic or not, The Royal Automobile Museum is well worth a visit. Built by order of King Abdullah II to honour his carloving father, the late King Hussein, it is packed with numerous gleaming vehicles from the 1920s to the present day. The vehicles exhibited, as well as the museum’s library, image archives and video footage tell the story of Jordan’s development through the history of its transport. royalautomuseum.jo
JORDAN ARCHAEOLOGICAL mUSEUm Built in 1951, Jordan Archaeological Museum (JAM) is located on Citadel Hill near one of the city’s
most important historic sites, the Amman Citadel. The museum’s collection comprises artefacts from archaeological sites across Jordan, ranging from the Palaeolithic era to the present day. The museum’s list of treasures includes the plaster Ain Ghazal statues, which, dating from around 6,000BC, are among the oldest in existence; JAM was formerly home to the Dead Sea Scrolls, which are now housed in the new Jordan Museum. visitjordan.com
DARAT AL FUNUN Run by the Khalid Shoman Foundation, Darat Al Funun contemporary art complex is located beside the ruins of a sixth century Byzantine church on the hillside overlooking downtown Amman. The complex includes an art gallery displaying work by both local artists and those from across the Middle Eastern, an art library, and workshops and studios for visiting sculptors and painters. Darat Al Funun hosts regular exhibitions, talks, workshops and film screenings. daratalfunun.org
Emirates flies twice daily to Amman from Dubai, with three daily flights starting 1st August
POPULATION: 1.055 million LANGUAGE: Arabic CURRENCY: Jordanian dinar HISTORICAL FACT: Amman, one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, was originally built on seven hills, or jabals, each of which made up a single neighbourhood INSPIRATIONAL CITIZEN: Prominent 20th-century Jordanian author and historian Suleiman Mousa, known for his groundbreaking work, TE Lawrence: An Arab View, which was published in several languages. DID YOU KNOW? You can follow Jordan’s Queen Rania on Twitter at twitter.com/QueenRania. The profile reads: “A mum and a wife with a really cool day job...” WHAT TO EAT: Ful, or fool, a popular breakfast dish usually made from fava beans, oil, lemon juice, pepper, cumin, parsley and onion, and scooped up with fresh bread
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DOMOTEX IS IN GAZİANTEP; THE CENTER OF CARPET
DOMOTEX GAZIANTEP MACHINE MADE CARPET FAIR 26-29 May 2014 Middle East Exhibition Center/ Gaziantep-Turkey
domotexgaziantep.com
Hannover Fairs Turkey Fuarcılık A.Ș. Organizer
Supporters
Gaziantep Chamber of Commerce
Southeast Anatolian Exporters Unions
Gaziantep Chamber of Carpet
Middle East Exhibition Center
THIS FAIR IS ORGANIZED WITH THE PERMISSION OF THE UNION OF CHAMBERS AND COMMODITY EXCHANGES OF
TURKEY IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE LAW NUMBER 5174.
briefing
Comfort
Wellness in the air
To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time on board with Emirates today.
smart traveller
Drink plentY of Water Rehydrate with water or juices frequently. Drink tea and coffee in moderation.
travel lightlY Carry only the essential items that you will need during your flight.
Before Your JourneY Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition. Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications? Get a good night’s rest before the flight. Eat lightly and sensibly.
Wear glasses Cabin air is drier than normal, therefore swap your contact lenses for glasses.
at the airport Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in. Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress. Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.
use skin moisturiser Apply a good quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.
keep moving Exercise your lower legs and calf muscles. This encourages blood flow.
During the flight Chewing and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent. Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy. Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently. Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.
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make Yourself comfortaBle Loosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body.
When You arrive Try some light exercise, or read if you can’t sleep after arrival.
briefing
Visas & UaE smart GatE Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle free as possible.
CUSTomS DEClArATIon Form
electronic system for travel authorisation (esta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Programme, You must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure.
esta facts:
All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.
Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending. A successful ESTA application is valid for two years, however this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.
apply online at www.cbp.Gov/esta nationalities eliGible for the visa waiver*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, latvia, liechtenstein, lithuania, luxemburg, malta, monaco, The netherlands, new Zealand, norway, Portugal, San marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**
* subject to chanGe ** only british citizens qualify under the visa waiver proGramme.
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BE SMART!
NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES
USE UAE SMART GATE AT DUBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GO THROUGH IMMIGRATION IN SECONDS AND GET YOUR VISIT TO DUBAI OFF TO A FLYING START Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International Airport by using UAE Smart Gate. If you hold a machine readable passport, UAE Emirates ID card or E-Gate card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds. Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International Airport.
USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY
1
Have your UAE Emirates ID card, E-Gate card or machine-readable passport ready to be scanned
Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, you can scan your UAE Emirates ID card. If you have an E-Gate card place it into the E-Gate slot
2 3
OK!
Go through the open gate, stand in the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and remain still for your iris scan. When finished, the next set of gates will open and you can proceed to baggage claim
UAE
ANDORRA
AUSTRALIA
AUSTRIA
BAHRAIN
BELGIUM
BRUNEI
CANADA
DENMARK
FINLAND
FRANCE
GERMANY
GREECE
ICELAND
IRELAND
ITALY
JAPAN
KUWAIT
LICHTENSTEIN
LUXEMBOURG
MALAYSIA
MONACO
NETHERLANDS
NEW ZEALAND
NORWAY
OMAN
PORTUGAL
QATAR
SAN MARINO
SAUDI ARABIA
SINGAPORE
SOUTH KOREA
SPAIN
SWEDEN
SWITZERLAND
*UK
USA
*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)
REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY
To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having your details validated by an Immigration officer. That’s it! Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you landed.
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UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY:
Machine readable passports from the above countries UAE Emirates ID cards E-Gate cards
route map
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NEW ROUTES:
Kano/Abuja: from August 1, 2014 Chicago: from August 5, 2014 Oslo: from September 2, 2014
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route map
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• • • • • • • •
Contract Drafting & Review Business Setup , Offshore & Free Zone Companies Corporate & Commercial Legal Services Litigation & Arbitration Debt Collection Banking, Insurance & Maritime Cases Real Estate, Construction & Labor Cases Trademarks, Patents & Copyrights
ﺻﻴﺎﻏﺔ ﺍﻟﻌﻘﻮﺩ ﻭﻣﺮﺍﺟﻌﺘﻬﺎ ﺗﺄﺳﻴﺲ ﺍﻟﺸﺮﻛﺎﺕ ﻭﺍﻷﻭﻓﺸﻮﺭ ﻭﺍﳌﻨﺎﻃﻖ ﺍﳊﺮﺓ ﺍﳋﺪﻣﺎﺕ ﺍﻟﻘﺎﻧﻮﻧﻴﺔ ﻟﻸﻓﺮﺍﺩ ﻭﺍﻟﺸﺮﻛﺎﺕ ﺍﻟﺘﻘﺎﺿﻲ ﻭ ﺍﻟﺘﺤﻜﻴﻢ ﲢﺼﻴﻞ ﺍﻟﺪﻳﻮﻥ ﻗﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﺒﻨﻮﻙ ﻭﺍﻟﺘﺄﻣﲔ ﻭﺍﻟﻘﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﺒﺤﺮﻳﺔ ﻗﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﳌﻘﺎﻭﻻﺕ ﻭﺍﻟﻌﻘﺎﺭﺍﺕ ﻭﺍﻟﻘﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﻌﻤﺎﻟﻴﺔ ﺍﻟﻌﻼﻣﺎﺕ ﺍﻟﺘﺠﺎﺭﻳﺔ ﻭﺑﺮﺍﺀﺍﺕ ﺍﻻﺧﺘﺮﺍﻉ ﻭﺣﻘﻮﻕ ﺍﳌﺆﻟﻒ
• • • • • • • •
DUBAI EMIRATES TOWERS, 14TH FLOOR, SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD P.O. BOX: 9055, DUBAI, UAE TEL: +971 4 330 4343 | FAX: +971 4 330 3993 contact@emiratesadvocates.com | www.emiratesadvocates.com ABU DHABI Tel: +971 2 6394446 auh@emiratesadvocates.com
RAS AL KHAIMAH Tel: +971 7 2046719 rak@emiratesadvocates.com
DUBAI INTERNET CITY Tel: +971 4 3900820 dic@emiratesadvocates.com
SHARJAH Tel: +971 6 5728666 shj@emiratesadvocates.com
JEBEL ALI Tel: +971 4 8871679 jafz@emiratesadvocates.com
DIFC Tel: +971 4 4019562 difc@emiratesadvocates.com
WITH AFFILIATE OFFICES IN SAUDI ARABIA, QATAR, BAHRAIN, KUWAIT AND OMAN
FOR 24 HOUR LEGAL ASSISTANCE, PLEASE CALL +971 (50) 328 99 99
ROUTE MAP
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OPEN SKIES / MAY 2014
Your home in Dubai
• • • • • • • •
Located in the heart of Dubai Opposite Metro Station Walking distance to Burj Khalifa, world’s tallest skyscraper Dubai Airport - 15 min Abu Dhabi Airport - 45 min Walking distance to shopping malls Close to Business Hubs (DIFC and DWTC) Spa and Outdoor Swimming Pool
Sheikh Zayed Road, P.O Box 116957 Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 4 323 0000 | Fax: +971 4 323 0003 www.emiratesgrandhotel.com
the FLeet
Our fleet contains 221 aircraft made up of 209 passenger aircraft and 12 cargo aircraft
Boeing 777-300eR
Number of Aircraft: 95 Capacity: 354-442 Range: 14,594km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 64.8m
Boeing 777-300
Number of Aircraft: 12 Capacity: 364 Range: 11,029km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 60.9m
Boeing 777-200LR
Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 266 Range: 17,446km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m
Boeing 777-200
Number of Aircraft: 9 Capacity: 274-346 Range: 9,649km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 60.9m
Boeing 777F
Number of Aircraft: 10 Range: 9,260km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet
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Airbus A380-800
Number of Aircraft: 49 Capacity: 489-517 Range: 15,000km Length: 72.7m Wingspan: 79.8m
Airbus A340-500
Number of Aircraft: 9 Capacity: 258 Range: 16,050km Length: 67.9m Wingspan: 63.4m
Airbus A340-300
Number of Aircraft: 4 Capacity: 267 Range: 13,350km Length: 63.6m Wingspan: 60.3m
Airbus A330-200
Number of Aircraft: 21 Capacity: 237-278 Range: 12,200km Length: 58.8m Wingspan: 60.3m
boeing 747-400erF
Number of Aircraft: 2 Range:9,204km Length: 70.6m Wingspan: 64.4m Aircraft numbers as of May 2014
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last look
Toronto BRIAN A RICHARDS 30, FASHION SHOW PRODUCER FOR THE COLLECTIONS DOWNTOWN, TORONTO I always loved Toronto. I’m from the suburbs and always dreamed of living here. It’s a little big city. It feels very grand but very conquerable. I’m in downtown Toronto today taking a break from the fashion shows, and then I’m going back in to oversee production elements. This area is unique because there are so many restaurants and theatres. We are right by Roy Thompson Hall, which has fantastic programmes to hear music and so on. I would describe my style as urban pioneer. Essentially, I like to play up our Canadian heritage, things that make us signature Toronto, and then apply them to urban modern style. It’s overcast today, mixed weather, so I wanted to wear something exposed but not exposed. I put on my one piece and then layered accordingly.
IMAGE: MELODIE JENG, THENYCSTREETS.COM
thecollections.ca
Discover Luxury
The largest selection of genuine 19th century French antiques in the region, 19th Century Antiques includes rare furniture, bronzes, paintings, clock sets, and vases of exceptional quality and taste.
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THE DARK SIDE OF THE MOON
The Apollo 8 astronauts were the first people to see the dark side of the moon with their own eyes. The black ceramic [ZrO2] Co-Axial Speedmaster salutes the pioneering spirit that took them to a place no human had ever been and it pays homage to the Speedmaster Professional chronographs worn by every Apollo astronaut. OMEGA is a proud partner in mankind’s greatest dreams.
More information available at OMEGA Middle East, Emirates Towers, Dubai, UAE. Tel: +971 4 3300455