Open Skies | November 2014

ld’s r o w e ab th Insidset science l large

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CONTENTS / NOVEMBER 2014

63 54

44 37

Exploring Manchester’s creative quarter

Red Snapper drummer Rich Thair reveals his favourite tracks

53 47

Our verdict on the Chester Grosvenor

Digging for vinyl at Stockholm’s Pet Sounds

13

Chef Paco Pérez shares his favourite places to eat in Barcelona

OPEN SKIES / NOVEMBER 2014

57

Our comprehensive guide to Newcastle

Award-winning Dubai chefs Nick Alvis and Scott Price on their latest venture, Taste Kitchen

contents / november 2014

103

Ibiza In The Middle East

front (23) Calendar The Grid The Question The Street Skypod The Room

24 32 34 37 44 47

Consume BLD Mapped Local Knowledge Column

main (77) Inside CERN Our Man In....Langkawi Ibiza In The Middle East

51 54 57 63 71

briefing (111) 78 96 103

News Comfort Visas, Quick Connect & Quarantine Information UAE Smart Gate Route Map The Fleet Last Look

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Open skies / nOvember 2014

112 124 126 128 130 136 138

edItor-In-CHIeF ManaGInG partner & GroUp edItor edItorIal dIreCtor GroUp edItor edItor desIGner sUB edItor edItorIal assIstant edItorIal Intern

Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Ian Fairservice Gina Johnson gina@motivate.ae Mark Evans marke@motivate.ae Gareth Rees gareth@motivate.ae Ralph Mancao ralph@motivate.ae Salil Kumar salil@motivate.ae Londresa Flores londresa@motivate.ae Mary Keenan

ContrIBUtors Christopher Beanland, Andrew Birbeck, Gemma Correll, Gary Evans, Mark Eveleigh, hg2.com, Jamie Knights, Daniel Gebhart de Koekkoek, Adrian Mourby, Zoe Noble, Louis Pattison, Robbie Porter, REM, Sandra Tinari Head oF prodUCtIon S Sunil Kumar assIstant prodUCtIon ManaGer Binu Purandaran

General ManaGer, GroUp sales Anthony Milne anthony@motivate.ae

dIGItal developMent ManaGer Helen Cotton helenc@motivate.ae

GroUp sales ManaGer Jaya Balakrishnan jaya@motivate.ae reGIonal ManaGer aBU dHaBI Imane Eddinari Imane@motivate.ae

InternatIonal sales ManaGer Martin Balmer martin.balmer@ motivate.ae depUtY sales ManaGer Amar Kamath depUtY sales ManaGer Deep Karani

edItorIal ConsUltants For eMIrates edItor Valerie Tan araBIC edItor Hatem Omar depUtY edItor Andy Grant WeBsIte emirates.com InternatIonal MedIa representatIves aUstralIa/neW Zealand Okeeffe Media; Tel + 61 894 472 734, okeeffekev@bigpond.com.au BelGIUM and lUXeMBoUrG M.P.S. Benelux; Tel +322 720 9799, francesco.sutton@mps-adv.com CHIna Publicitas Advertising; Tel +86 10 5879 5885 GerManY IMV Internationale Medien Vermarktung GmbH; Tel +49 8151 550 8959, w.jaeger@imv-media.com HonG KonG/MalaYsIa/tHaIland Sonney Media Networks; Tel +852 2151 2351, hemant@sonneymedia.com IndIa Media Star; Tel +91 22 4220 2103, ravi@mediastar.co.in FranCe/ItalY & spaIn IMM International; Tel +331 40 1300 30, n.devos@imm-international.com Japan Tandem Inc.; Tel + 81 3 3541 4166, all@tandem-inc.com netHerlands giO media; Tel +31 (0)6 22238420, giovanni@giO-media.nl tUrKeY Media Ltd.; Tel +90 212 275 51 52, mediamarketingtr@medialtd.com.tr UK Spafax Inflight Media; Tel +44 207 906 2001, nhopkins@spafax.com Usa Totem Brand Stories; Tel +1 4168475100, nicole.mullin@tc.tc

Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts.

Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

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EDITOR’S LETTER

O Gareth Rees, Editor

“IF I WAS LUCKY, A CHEMISTRY LESSON WOULD ENTAIL AN EXPERIMENT WITH A BUNSEN BURNER – IF NOT, A TEST OF HOW WELL I HAD MEMORISED THE PERIODIC TABLE.” NOW AVAILABLE ON YOUR IPAD!

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ut of the three branches of science studied at my Cardiff high school in the mid 1990s – physics, chemistry and biology physics was the one I struggled with the most. If I was lucky, a chemistry lesson would entail an experiment with a Bunsen burner – if not, a test of how well I had memorised the Periodic Table. In biology, meanwhile, we were once allowed to dissect a heart with a scalpel. Physics, to my 13-year-old self, was mathematics by another name. E = mc2? Maths, right?

And mathematics was my academic nemesis. My long division has not improved, but I do have a greater appreciation of physics’ distinguished history and the work of physicists: Leucippus (the atom); Nicolaus Copernicus (helliocentrism i.e. the planets revolving around the sun); Galileo Galilei (astronomy); Johannes Kepler (the laws of planetary motion); Sir Isaac Newton (gravity); and Albert Einstein, who brought us the Theory Of Relativity and Doc Brown’s dog in Back To The Future I, II and III. I have also read Dan Brown’s Angels & Demons (2000), the prequel to The Da Vinci Code (2003), in which the Illuminati, planning to destroy Vatican City, half-inch a canister of antimatter from CERN. And that is where my blethering about physics smashes into this issue of Open Skies like a particle in the Large Hadron Collider. The European Organisation For Nuclear Research, or in French Organisation Europeenne pour la Recherché Nucleaire, or in short CERN, which is the world’s largest physics laboratory, recently celebrated its 60th anniversary. So we sent very excited Open Skies regular Christopher Beanland to Geneva to tour the facility and meet director general RolfDieter Heuer. But, because we have a penchant for the unexpected, we also sent the talented photographer Daniel Gebhart de Koekkoek along to explore the other side of CERN:

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OPEN SKIES / NOVEMBER 2014

ON THE COVER / Vienna-based photographer Daniel Gebhart de Koekkoek produced such a striking image for our April cover that when it came to commissioning somebody to photograph CERN for this month’s cover story, there was no other photographer in the running. Daniel’s behind the scenes photo essay is stunning, but for a story on CERN, the cover star had to be the Large Hadron Collider (part of it, at least).

the people who work there. Daniel’s beautiful, candid images capture the human world behind the high-tech machinery, and represent, I think, one of the most visually interesting photo essays we have ever run.

From the high tech, hidden world of CERN, we move on to something entirely different: the high-octane world of Pacha. Open way back in 1967, the legendary Ibiza nightclub has become synonymous with its Mediterranean island home, the rise of electronic dance music, the superclub and the superstar DJ. This month Pacha opens Pacha Ibiza Dubai, and in celebration of the brand’s arrival in the Middle East, we enlisted Gary Evans to speak to some of the people intimately associated with Pacha. Gary’s story focuses on the remarkable history of one of the world’s most famous lifestyle brands, applauding its longevity and offering a glimpse into its future.

Enjoy the issue.

CONTRIBUTORS

SOME OF THE PEOPLE WHO HELPED CREATE THIS MAGAZINE

GARY EVANS

Gary is a journalist from Sunderland living – embitteredly – in the south of England.

His writing has appeared in Mixmag, Rolling Stone, The Guardian, The Independent and Dazed & Confused.

For this issue, he wrote about Ibiza institution Pacha, as the club brand opens a new venue in Dubai.

“I first visited Pacha and Ibiza as an 18-year-old.

The club was everything I hoped the island would be: exotic, quixotic, exciting – a bit weird,” he says. “It was a pleasure to plot the brand’s storied past and look to its future.”

ADRIAN MOURBY

Adrian is a travel writer. He has published four novels and two travel guides, but his most recent project was advising Wienerstaatsoper on a new production of Mozart’s Idomeneo.

This month, as Berlin celebrates 25 years since the Wall came down, he recalls his first visit to the city and reflects on how the German capital has changed since the late 1980s.

“There is still a great sense of shock and pain about what happened in the 20th century,” he says. “I do wonder if Berlin will ever become just another city”.

DANIEL GEBHART DE KOEKKOEK

Photographer Daniel is based in Vienna, Austria. His work has appeared in VICE, Vanity Fair, Monocle, Travel+Leisure, The Financial Times and Zeit Magazin.

His first book, The World We Live In, was published by Kehrer Verlag in 2013 and won the PDN best photo books prize 2013.

For this issue, Daniel went behind the scenes at CERN in Switzerland.

“I knew there would be a lot of high-tech stuff at CERN,” he says. “But what I liked the most was the charming old offices and interior where the theorists work.”

20

CHRISTOPHER MARK EVELEIGH BEANLAND Christopher has written about architecture and culture for the Sydney Morning Herald, The Guardian, The Independent, The Telegraph and Kathimerini in Athens. Chris’s first novel, Spinning Out Of Control, has just been published.

For this issue, he visited CERN in Switzerland.

“CERN is a real monument to human ingenuity, to vast scale and bravery, and to nations working together – really important things we need to celebrate in these sometimes slightly strained times,” he says. “ It was a UN of science.”

OPEN SKIES / NOVEMBER 2014

Six nerve-wracking hours dangling from a frayed cable in a Venezuelan cable car inspired Mark to pursue a career as a travel writer and photojournalist.

He’s since contributed to publications such as Geographical, Nat Geo Traveller and The Guardian.

For this issue he photographed Malaysian naturalist Irshad Mobarak.

“I’d spent quite a lot of time junglebashing in Asian rainforests,” he says, “but a walk with visionary Malaysian naturalist Irshad Mobarak was one of the most enlightening experiences I’ve ever had.”

Northern Quarter Manchester’s most creative neighbourhood

(37)

front BARCELONA: Chef Paco Pérez shares his favourite places to eat in the Catalan capital DUBAI: The new café concept from award-winning Dubai chefs Nick Alvis and Scott Price

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54 63

November

CALENDAR

November 1 and 2, Auckland, New Zealand

Up to 22 November, Falmouth, Cornwall

moNster Jam

Black And White

Held at Falmouth Art Gallery, Black And White features a mixture of traditional and contemporary works in the limited palate of black and white. The exhibition highlights some of the best artists who have worked in black and white, including Robert Jones, whose interactive art-app Elements Of Pattern, available on the App Store on iTunes, allows users to tap into their own creativity and position tiles to form unique patterns on screen. They can save the design for themselves or add it to the gallery at elementsofpattern.com.

Held at Auckland’s QBE Stadium, Monster Jam promises four-metre tall, five-tonne motorised trucks that crush, jump and race around in the name of family entertainment. Visitors will see an impressive assembly of machines, including the four-time Monster Jam World Finals champion Grave Digger, driven by the 11-time World Champion Max-D. MoNStErJAM.CoM

FAlMoutHArtGAllEry.CoM

November 4, Melbourne, Australia

Emirates Melbourne Cup Emirates Melbourne Cup Day is the highlight of Australia’s racing year, and the crowning glory of the Melbourne Cup Carnival. The world’s top horses and trainers compete for AUS$6.2 million in prize money and the 18ct solid gold Hardy Brothers trophy. Expect sporting action, impressive fashion statements and good old Aussie hospitality.

November 2, Shanghai, China

MElBourNECup.CoM

shaNghai FitNess Festival

A week of celebrating and encouraging fitness, Shanghai Fitness Festival begins with the Shanghai International Marathon.

More than 200 sports and activities for all ages are staged during the festival, and anyone who has a certificate of good health and a valid ID can register for the various events.

SHMArAtHoN.CoM

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NOVEMBER

CALENDAR

November 5, UK

GUY FAWKES NIGHT

In 1605, Guy Fawkes was arrested beneath the House Of Lords in London; he was stood next to a lot of gunpowder.

The plan to blow up King James I was foiled, and people celebrated by lighting fires around the capital. To this day you will find ‘Guys’ being tossed into fires accompanied by firework displays across the United Kingdom.

November 5 to November 7, Chiang Mai, Thailand

Yi Peng

Yi Peng is a festival unique to northern Thailand. It is best known for its stunning paper lanterns, which are decorated and then exhibited throughout the region and released into the night sky. Chiang Mai, the capital of the ancient Kingdom Of Lanna, hosts the most spectacular display.

November 6, India

GURU NANAK GURPURAB

November 5 to 9, New York, US

New York Comedy Festival This year’s New York Comedy Festival will see veteran comedian Bill Cosby play Carnegie Hall, while the roster also features festival favourite Bill Maher and Parks And Recreation’s Nick Offerman.

Performances can be seem across the city in venues including the Beacon Theater, Town Hall and the Theater at Madison Square Garden. There will also be panel sessions where visitors will be offered an insight into the views of the country’s top comedic talent.

Guru Nanak Gurpurab is the celebration of the birth of the first Sikh guru, Guru Nanak, and is one of the most important Sikh festivals. To mark the date, there are early morning processions with hymn singing, while a two-day non-stop reading of the Sikh holy book takes place. There are also sword displays and prayer sessions. While Guru Nanak Gurpurab is celebrated by Sikhs across the world, you should head to Punjab, Haryana or Chandigarh for the most impressive festival experience.

NYCOMEDYFESTIVAL.COM

Skypod

Red Snapper page 44 26

OPEN SKIES / NOVEMBER 2014

November

CALENDAR

November 7 to 9, Durban, south africa

DurbaN motor show

Back for its third edition, the Durban motor show is promising new features for 2014, while still giving motor enthusiasts the chance to see the latest vehicles and top tuners. there will be drag cars, drifters, burning rubber, Dyno wars and numerous other car-related activities for all the family.

DuRBanmotoRshow.co.za

November 8 to 11, Rio, Brazil

Fashion Rio

Showcasing Brazil’s top fashion designers, Fashion Rio is more relaxed than Brazil’s other major fashion show, Sao Paolo Fashion Week. On display are the upcoming trends soon to be hitting the Brazilian high streets. Highlights include an appearance by superstar Brazilian designer Alexandre Herchcovitch, who famously revealed his anti-cellulite jeans last year. ffw.com.BR/fashion-Rio

November 13 to 16, Dublin, ireland

DubliN book Festival

November 12, copenhagen, Denmark

Elton John

Pop icon Elton John takes his Follow the Yellow Brick Road tour to Denmark this month with a concert at Forum Copenhagen. Expect to hear classics from the Grammy Award-winning artist, including favourites such as Our Song, Daniel and Candle in the Wind. The tour, which is promoting the re-release of 1973’s Goodbye Yellow Brick Road, ends in December in New York.

smock alley plays host to this Dublin literary festival that has been running since 2005. with the aim of supporting and developing irish publishing, the focus is very much on local talent, showcasing the country’s rich literary past as well as its current and future stars. it boasts a packed schedule with talks, walking tours, book launches, cookery, music and more.

DuBlinBookfestival.com

eltonjohn.com

mapped

newcastle page 57 28

Open skies / nOvember 2014

A LEVEL ABOVE BREATHTAKING

Soaring high at 555 meters, At the Top, Burj Khalifa SKY is fittingly Dubai’s most iconic destination. You can now enjoy exclusive access to the redefined, highest outdoor observatory in the world, spread across levels 125 and 148 of the Burj Khalifa. With dedicated lounges, elevator access and complimentary refreshments, you will be personally escorted through stunning views and never seen before interactive experiences.

#TouchTheSky www.atthetop.ae

November

CALENDAR

November 15 to December 6, Buenos Aires, Argentina

argeNtiNe opeN champioNship of polo

The world’s top polo players will gather in Buenos Aires this month for the unofficial world championship.

Argentina’s love affair with the game is well known and the Argentine open Championship of Polo boasts a rich history dating back to the inaugural event in 1893. Regular winners La Dolfina will be looking to defend their title this year, particularly from rivals La Ellerstina, who were victorious in 2012.

FiPPoLo.CoM

November 16, Washington, uS

Tacoma Art Museum Tacoma Art Museum is opening its new wing this month. The centrepiece is the Haub Family Galleries, which will display a selection of western American art donated to the museum by Erivan and Helga Haub; the couple bestowed 295 works from their private collection. The collection includes 19th century artists who shaped the views of Native Americans, mountain men, cowboys and pristine American landscapes.

There are also 20th century artists who brought modern art movements west and who explored western history and American identity.

TACoMAARTMuSEuM.oRG

November 21 to 23, Margaret River, Australia

margaret river gourmet escape

The International Documentary Film Festival Amsterdam is a celebration of documentary filmmaking, featuring work by international and local filmmakers. With the majority of films in English or with subtitles, it’s an inclusive event with a wide range of topics and styles covered. There are also workshops and the opportunity to purchase films shown at the festival.

This year’s Margaret River Gourmet Escape food and music festival welcomes big name chefs including Heston Blumenthal, Sam Leong and Daniel Berlin. New for 2014 is a performance

by Crowded House frontman Neil Finn, who will stage a one-off vineyard concert alongside Australian artists Gurrumul and Megan Washington. Food critics Matt Preston and A A Gill will act as quiz masters at the Gourmet Food Trivia Night, judging the festival’s most knowledgeable foodie. Travel packages including flights, accommodation and event tickets are available.

iDFA.NL

GouRMETESCAPE.CoM.Au

November 19 to 30, Amsterdam, Holland

International Documentary Film Festival Amsterdam

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Rush The Team Members of LUX* help people to celebrate life with the most simple, fresh and sensory hospitality in the world.

M AU R I T I U S R E U N I O N M A L D I V E S C H I N A U . A . E ( 2 0 1 6 ) | L U X R E S O R T S. C O M

THE GRID November 14 What’s On Party In The Park Dubai, UAE

THE THREE BIGGEST EVENTS TAKING PLACE IN THE UAE THIS MONTH...

British pop star Lily Allen will headline the inaugural What’s On Party In The Park festival at Dubai Media City Amphitheatre this month. The open-air event will run from 2pm to midnight, and will also welcome South Africa’s Freshlyground, the Hype Dance Arena presenting Dubai’s leading DJs and the Good Garden Stage where Dubai singer-songwriter Adam Baluch will host local acoustic performers. Ticket prices range from Dhs295 (US$80) to Dhs1,000 (US$275). partyinthepark.ae

November 20 to 23 DP World Tour Championship Dubai, UAE

November 21 to 23 2014 Formula 1 Abu Dhabi Grand Prix Abu Dhabi, UAE

Hosted at Jumeirah Golf Estates, the DP World Tour Championship will see the leading 60 golfers on the European Tour converge on Dubai. A fixture on the European Tour circuit since 2009, the event attracts golfing superstars such as Rory McIlroy, Sergio Garcia and Henrik Stenson. europeantour.com

Now in its sixth year, the 2014 Formula 1 Abu Dhabi Grand Prix returns to Yas Marina Circuit this month.

Aside from the racing action, those in attendance can look forward to concerts from international acts Pharell Williams, DJ Armin van Buuren and The Who. yasmarinacircuit.com

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the question

WHY DO WE LOVE ART? Whether it is a film, a book, a painting, a play, a song or one of the many other mediums artists have chosen to express themselves, most of us have derived enjoyment from a piece of art at some point in our lives.

We can probably offer some explanation as to why we loved a particular Beethoven symphony or Dickens novel, but it is harder to decipher what it is that entices us to engage with art in general. Some argue that we humans revel in our ability to externalise what is going on in our minds. When we see a painting that moves us in some way, it is often due to the fact that we have associated it with a particular feeling or emotion we have experienced.

It doesn’t necessarily have to be a pleasurable feeling, of course – as much as we enjoy pleasure, pain is also a sensation

TWITTER Q&A The Noor Ali Rashid exhibition at Sharjah Museum explains itself in 140 characters or less

that humans need to feel on occasion, and many enjoy watching films that provoke fear, sadness or other usually negative emotions. Art can be seen simply as a form of communication; aboriginals in Australia created art to pass on their experiences to younger generations, for example. So whether it’s a cheap generic print of a cat playing with a ball of wool or a Beau Stanton painting of machinery and historic iconography on the side of a building in Brooklyn, if the viewer can relate or engage with a work of art, it has achieved its purpose.

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@OpenSkiesMag: What can visitors expect from the exhibition? @NoorAliRashid: To see a broad selection of artistic and documentary style photographs from the largest single photography archive in the Middle East @OpenSkiesMag: Tell us a bit about Noor Ali Rashid’s photography @NoorAliRashid: He was considered the father of photojournalism in the region @NoorAliRashid: He was the only photographer who took photographs of life and history as it was happening @OpenSkiesMag: What images feature in the exhibition? @NoorAliRashid: Images of ordinary people, extraordinary events, Sheikhs and his international expositions @OpenSkiesMag: What prompted you to include the images taken outside of the UAE? @NoorAliRashid: These images are never seen before and it dispels the myth that his work is purely local @NoorAliRashid: He photographed in 35 different countries around the world @OpenSkiesMag: Must have been difficult to decide which images to include @NoorAliRashid: It was! It really was @NoorAliRashid: This is the largest exhibition of his images ever and the largest photo exhibit that @Sharjah Museum has ever done @NoorAliRashid: All 4 levels of the contemporary section with 30 galleries have been allocated to the @NoorAliRashid exhibit OpenSkiesMag: Will the exhibition feature any seminars or discussions of Noor Ali Rashid’s work? @NoorAliRashid: Definitely! @NoorAliRashid: One seminar will be held on the 12th of Nov at @ SharjahMuseum and another one on 26th of Nov at Alserkal Avenue, Dubai @NoorAliRashid: The exhibition is open from 22nd Oct to 6th December

the street

Northern Quarter, Manchester

Words by Gareth Rees / Images by REM

Manchester’s Northern Quarter didn’t exist as a distinct neighbourhood until the late 20th century. Its red brick buildings and warehouses are reminders of Manchester’s 19th century heyday when it was at the centre of the global cotton and textile trade, but the neighbourhood is a product of 1990s urban regeneration. Like London’s Shoreditch and Hoxton,

which both underwent similar “gentrification” at the tail end of the last century, it has become a magnet for young creatives and entrepreneurs. The Northern Quarter is home to Affleck’s Palace, a former department store turned multi-level market incorporating more than 60 independent stores; some of the city’s best independent record stores; popular music venues

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such as Tib Street jazz club Matt & Phred’s; the not-for-profit performance and event space 2022NQ; and numerous cafés, galleries, restaurants, bars and boutiques. But whereas its southern counterparts have come to be associated with the much-maligned “hipster”, the Northern Quarter has managed to preserve its distinctly northern down-to-earth character.

the street

Magma The Northern Quarter boasts a similar concentration of independent stores as London’s Covent Garden, so it’s not surprising that Marc Valli and Montse Ortuno, who opened the original incarnation of

their Magma bookshop on London’s Earlham Street in 2000, have a branch on the neighbourhood’s Oldham Street. The small shop sells posters and prints, stationary, games and numerous other bits and pieces, but its focus

Piccadilly Records The original Piccadilly Records opened in 1978, and the shop has existed in several different locations over the past 26 years.

The store has been in its current location on Oldham Street in the Northern Quarter since 1997, and is one of the most popular independent record stores in a neighbourhood beloved of vinyl junkies.

Known for its eclectic selection

of vinyl, its knowledgeable staff and its popular website, which features insightful staff reviews, Piccadilly Records is popular with both visiting and Manchester-based collectors, including local DJ and loyal customer Mr Scruff.

53 Oldham Street, Northern Quarter, Manchester Tel: +44 (0) 1618398008 piccadillyrecords.com

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is still, thankfully, art books and independent magazines.

If you are partial to either, or both, take a large tote bag.

22 Oldham Street, Northern Quarter, Manchester Tel: +44 (0) 1612368777 magmabooks.com

the street

Manchester Craft & Design Centre A fine example of adaptive reuse, this converted Victorian fish and poultry market, owned by Manchester City Council, has been dedicated to local craft since the early 1980s. It is now home to more than 30 artists and artisans selling handmade items.

Whether it’s a greeting card handpainted by Laura Richardson, a pair of earrings designed by Tracey Birchwood or a soft toy from Harriet Godden’s Sausage Dog studio, anything you pick up at Manchester Craft & Design Centre will be unique and local.

The centre also hosts exhibitions, events and workshops, and is home to the popular Oak Street Café Bar. 17 Oak Street, Northern Quarter, Manchester Tel: +44 (0) 1618324274 craftanddesign.com

Northern Flower Proving that the Northern Quarter has every creative base covered, Northern Flower is a boutique flower shop tucked away on Tin Street. This endearing little shop stocks an impressive range of indoor and outdoor plants, seasonal and

Richard Goodall Gallery Richard Goodall Gallery has two locations in the Northern Quarter ¬ the other, opened in 2007, is on High Street, but the Thomas Street gallery, which has been operating since 2000, is the original. The gallery specialises in music and movie posters, designer vinyl toys, prints, homewares and greetings cards. All of the items are for sale, and the gallery stocks work by contemporary artists including UK-based designer Brendan Dawes, contemporary pop artist Donald Topp, Grammy Awardwinning artist Rob Jones and Canadian visual artist Dana Wyse.

59 Thomas Street, Northern Quarter, Manchester Tel: +44 (0) 1618323435 richardgoodallgallery.com

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Open skies / nOvember 2014

tropical flowers and hand-tied bouquets. If you’re looking to surprise someone special, or you have forgotten a birthday or anniversary, Northern Flower offers a same-day delivery service.

58 Tin Street, Northern Quarter, Manchester Tel: +44 (0) 1618327731 northernflower.com

the street

Almost Famous If you crave a patty in a bun in the Northern Quarter, Almost Famous, the two-floor American-style diner-cocktail bar on the corner of High Street and Edge Street, is the only place to enjoy a “big, dirty burger”, according to one particularly zealous local. Almost Famous has another Manchester branch, as well as outposts in Liverpool and Leeds, but the Northern Quarter is the true home of the Baddaboom, the Chilli Chilli Chilli Cheeseburger, the Animal Burger and the Butter Blood & Bleu – all of which involve forcing far more deliciously unwholesome ingredients than is advisable between two halves of bun. Almost Famous doesn’t take bookings, is closed on Mondays and is guaranteed to be busy, but you should not leave Manchester without paying a visit. Good luck.

101-102 High Street, Northern Quarter, Manchester almostfamousburgers.com

North Tea Power The Northern Quarter is not short of quality cafés – Fig + Sparrow on Oldham Street and DJ Mr Scruff’s Teacup Kitchen on Thomas Street are also worth a visit– and they all have their own unique charms.

North Tea Power’s USP is, surprisingly considering the name, its excellent coffee. The white walls, chalkboards, industrial-style light shades and wooden floors and furniture make for a stylish setting, but it’s the near perfect cappuccino that attracts the locals.

36 Tib Street, Northern Quarter, Manchester Tel: +44 (0) 1618333073 northteapower.co.uk

Oi Polloi Oi Polloi is one of the Northern Quarter’s best-known shops. Opened in 2002 by local lads Steve Sanderson and Nigel Lawson, the menswear boutique is so revered that it is not unknown for men to travel to Manchester solely to replenish their wardrobes with shirts from French brand A.P.C. or Scottish designer Cathal McAteer of Folk, socks from Germany’s Falke, a sweater from Swedish brand Fjällräven or a ‘Made For Japan’ Barbour jacket. Finding some of these brands at all can be hard, finding them all on the rails of one small shop is a dream for any stylish man in a hurry.

63 Thomas Street, Northern Quarter, Manchester Tel: +44 (0) 1618317781 oipolloi.com

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SKYPOD

RED SNAPPER GENRE: Experimental jazz AGE: 49 CITY: London

The jazz trio’s drummer Rich Thair shares his favourite tracks

01.

02. 03. 04.

Marvin Gaye T Plays It Cool

Asafo Beesoun CK Mann And His Carousel 7

So deep and soulful – sensual one minute, sad the next. Marvin came to Motown as a drummer originally, and the feel of this tune blows me away.

An important record, defining a new style. The relationship between the instruments creates such an uplifting sound.

Mogwai Scotland’s Shame

ESG UFO

Like so many Mogwai tracks, by the end I feel ready to cry. This band has influenced us a lot.

My brother played me this when I was happily drumming away to Led Zeppelin, and ever since this band has had a massive influence.

05. 06. 07.

08.

Wes Montgomery Round Midnight

Ibrahim Hamma Dicko Sida (DJ Spider remix)

Fela Kuti Roforofo Fight

Charles Mingus Hora Decubitus

Of all the recordings of this Thelonious Monk classic, this is the version I keep coming back to.

Nobody has a tone like Wes and his improv is so melodic that it actually improves the melody.

A Malian artist who made some amazingly beautiful music, politically and culturally charged. DJ Spider adds an insistent Afro beat, which propels it across any dance floor.

Everything you need to know about Afrobeat – 16 minutes, all of it essential.

The groove is as deep and wide as the Congo River, with horns that sound like angry Razorbacks rooting in the dirt.

A jaw-dropping example of how a composer and bandleader can marshal the power of a ‘big’ band without sacrificing the spontaneity of a small group of brilliant soloists.

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OPEN SKIES / NOVEMBER 2014

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the Room

TexT: Mark evans iMaGes: ChesTer Grosvenor, ChesTer

rooM 240

ChesTer Grosvenor, ChesTer

The historic city of Chester, in the North West of England, can trace its roots back to Roman times, so it’s no surprise to find that Chester Grosvenor also has an illustrious past. Completed in 1863 for Richard Grosvenor, the 2nd Marquess Of Westminster, the hotel occupies a historic location on Eastgate, in the centre of Chester, within the city’s ancient walls. Now owned by the 6th Duke Of Westminster, the Grade II listed building has lost none of the charm, with its half-timbered black and white Tudor-style façade a joy to behold. The period style carries on into the interior, where a high chandelier dominates the main reception. Bedrooms, however, shy away from traditional styling, opting for a mix of classic and contemporary; it works, just, although there’s an argument they could have nailed their colours to the mast of one or the other.

The gym’s small, and it was slightly annoying to have to pay extra for the best thing on the breakfast menu, the full English, but they’re small niggles given the hotel’s overall warm feel and – it’s hard not to use that word again – charm. chestergrosvenor.com

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Internet Speed: 3.7MB, free pIllowS: Four Ipod dock: Yes club SandwIch delIvery tIme: 18 minutes complImentary SnackS: Water toIletry brand: Plantation daIly newSpaper: The Guardian, The Times on request extraS: Tea, coffee tv channelS: 15

MAURITIUS

THREE NEW HOTEL OPENINGS

the Room

SHERATON GRAND HOTEL Dubai, UAE

Located on Dubai’s Sheikh Zayed Road, the Sheraton Grand Hotel will open its doors on November 1. The property has 654 rooms, suites and apartments, four different dining venues, a spa, a gym and numerous ballrooms. starwoodhotels.com/sheraton

LE CINQ CODET

FOUR SEASONS RESORT

Le Cinq Codet opens this month in Paris’ seventh arrondissement. Housed in a building that was a telephone exchange in the 1930s, the hotel is within walking distance of the Eiffel Tower, Les Invalides and the Rodin Museum. The property features 68 rooms, four of which are terraced suites.

Dubai’s newest beachfront hotel is set to open on November 16. Situated at the northern end of Jumeirah Beach Road, the resort has a total of 237 guest rooms and boasts 10 restaurants and lounges.

Designed by the team behind Atlantis The Palm, the property was inspired by Andulasian and Mediterranean architecture.

Paris, France

Dubai, UAE

le5codet.com

fourseasons.com/dubaijb

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consume albums

Four One Direction

Pop One Direction’s succinctly titled fourth studio album is slated for release on November 17. The five-piece boy band have confirmed that the album has a more grown-up sound than their previous albums and was influenced by numerous 1980s rock bands. The album’s first single Steal My Girl, was released on September 29.

The PinkPrinT Nicki Minaj

Hip hop A direct reference to Jay-Z’s 2001 album The Blueprint, Nicki Minaj’s third album marks a return to her hip hop and rap roots.

Sonic highwayS Foo Fighters

Post-grunge/alternative rock The Foo Fighters’ eighth album has eight tracks, all of which were recorded in different cities in America. Sonic Highways has a confirmed release date of November 10.

SToryTone Neil Young

Rock The legendary singer-songwriter’s second album of 2014 (A Letter Home was released in April) is the 35th album of his career. The 12 tracks were recorded with a 92-piece orchestra.

books

The univerSal Tone: Bringing My STory To liFe Carlos Santana

autobiography Carlos Santana’s self-penned memoir details his colourful life as a father, husband, recording artist and musical legend.

41: a PorTraiT oF My FaTher George W Bush

biography An intimate glimpse into the life of George H W Bush, the 41st president of the United States, written by his son and 43rd American president, George W Bush.

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My new rooTS Sarah Britton

Cookbook Every month half a million or so readers visit holistic nutritionist Sarah Britton’s website to access her simple recipes. Inspired by her blog, Britton’s book is the ultimate guide for those looking to rethink their eating habits.

consume THE RECORD SHOP

Pet Sounds Stockholm, Sweden Questions: Andrew Birbeck / Answers: Owner of Pet Sounds, Stefan Jacobson

petsounds.se

ImAgeS: Pet SOundS

STAR ATTRACTION / Blur, Oasis and Coldplay have all performed at Stefan Jacobson’s (top)Pet Sounds

Pet Sounds by The Beach Boys is one of the most iconic albums of all time. Has Brian Wilson, or for that matter any of The Beach Boys, ever been in touch, and, if so, can you tell us about it?

I met the Beach Boys in Gothenburg during the summer of 2012, just before a gig. I got them to sign my Pet Sounds vinyl. Brian didn’t say a lot – actually, nothing. I had a Pet Sounds, Stockholm totebag with me. Mike Love looked at it and said, ‘Pet Sounds?’ I told him, “It’s my record store in Stockholm.”

He looked at me and also said nothing. Ah well…

We hear a t-shirt that reads “You can’t download vinyl” once inspired you. What makes vinyl so special and how did the love affair start?

The sound, the smell, the sheer beauty of a vinyl record on the shelf.

LP’s are firmly on the rebound. How do you account for it and what kind of customers are going “back to the future”?

We stock a really large selection of new and secondhand records. Customers range from young hipsters buying the latest import releases to grumpy old men buying original 1960s LPs. How important are online sales, and what’s the strangest enquiry you’ve ever had?

With online sales we aim to reach the whole wide world, and we do. Strange inquires happen every day. Yesterday somebody asked for ‘Wilget Pepple’.

After a while we managed to work out that he wanted Village People.

Since opening in 1979 who were you most honoured to see coming through the doors, and can you tell us why?

It’s not easy to pick one person, there have been so many: John Peel, Bjork, Elvis Costello, Bryan Ferry, Little Steven and many others. They’re such legendary artists, they took time to visit, and of course I’m a fan of them all.

You’re renowned for hosting gigs. How regularly does that happen and which relatively unknown artists attracted most attention and went on to great things?

We have gigs once a month or so. Blur, Oasis and Coldplay all had gigs or appearances here, and I guess in those cases the rest is history.

You sell concert tickets, too. How important is it to keep diversifying and do you have plans to expand what’s on offer any further?

There are always plans; right now we’re working on Pet Sounds Factory, a place with a bar, restaurant, coffee shop, stage, record, book and DVD section and much, much more. Watch this space.

What’s your favourite track of all time?

Racing In The Streets by Bruce Springsteen.

If you could choose just one thing, what’s the best part of your job?

That’s easy, helping people find great records they didn’t know existed.

Last but not least, what would the song title of your life be?

Has to be Neil Young’s Keep On Rockin’ In The Free World.

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BLD

Barcelona

IMAgE: EnotEcA

Paco PĂŠrez, chef at two Michelin-star Enoteca at Hotel Arts Barcelona, reveals his favourite places to eat in the city

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B

l

d

BREAKFAST

LUNCH

DINNER

Miguelitos is cosy, beautiful, pleasant, clean and has lots of light.

I like the fact that it’s simple, it makes you feel relaxed and at ease.

They serve small dishes (“platillos” in Spanish), which is the best manner of serving in Spain. You can share with others, and sample lots of their delicious dishes. Miguelitos serves excellent sandwiches; it is the traditional Spanish breakfast, and it’s what everyone visits for. They also have a very good selection of breads and pastries, and very good fresh juices. I go there with my wife when we have a day off together (which is rare), and we always have a great time.

Koy Shunka is my favourite Japanese restaurant, and I believe it’s one of the best Japanese restaurants in Europe. Hideki Matsuhisa is also my very good friend, and he is extremely talented. The idea of going there just puts a smile on my face, as I know I am going to have a good time. I like to take my teenage children, because I want them to know this kind of place. It is unique and eating there is an experience for the senses – everything is so good.

The style is Japanese with European nuances, very subtle but extremely smart. Pick any dish and you won’t be disappointed – it’s a fiesta.

Tickets is an absolute must-visit in Barcelona. Albert Adria, brother of Ferran Adria, is a very good friend, and we all visit each other’s places.

The Adria brothers’ influence is undeniable within the Barcelona food scene; they create very unique concepts with their genius. Tickets is an exclusive place, yet they manage to make it feel like it’s informal. For me, it is a restaurant to relax, to take a break. You can eat with your hands: the tapas format makes it easy. It is a restaurant I like to go to share food with others.

Miguelitos Avinguda Diagonal 405, Barcelona Tel: +34 93 368 4141 restaurantemiguelitos.es

Koy Shunka Copons, 7, Barcelona Tel: +34 93 412 7939 koyshunka.com

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Tickets Avinguda Parallel 164, Barcelona Tel: +34 93 292 4253 es.bcn50.org

mapped 04

07

SEDAWATTA

Jesmond

Leazes Park

City Stadium 16

Princess Square

Shieldfield

15

11 03

01

10

02

09

12 13

Gateshead Millennium Bridge 14

08

05

06 06

Newcastle Restaurants:

Bars:

Galleries:

5. House of Tides (54.967758 , -1.610334)

9. The Bridge Tavern (54.969351 , -1.607654)

13. The Outsiders (54.969366 , -1.604059)

(54.970620 , -1.617933)

(54.987044, -1.594600)

(54.971807 , -1.612831)

(54.974729 , -1.609338)

4. Jesmond Dene House (54.998967 , -1.603505)

8. SIX (54.969140 , -1.598417)

Hotels:

1. Malmaison Newcastle (54.970808 , -1.600421)

Newcastle has all the allure you’d expect from a regional capital and vibrant hub of entertainment 14. BALTIC Centre for Contemporary Art 10. Tokyo 6. Raval Luxury Restaurant & Bar This scenic riverside locale offers a wonderful blend of historic castles and cathedrals, (54.969140 , -1.598417) (54.969148 , -1.613106) (54.966037 , -1.603215) grand architecture and upbeat urban nightlife to rival any city in Europe. Newcastle is also home to a Laing Art Gallery 11. Pleased To Meet You 7. Peace and Loaf 3. Hotel Indigo thriving food scene, led by a new generation of talented chefs and enterprising boutique 15. restaurants.

2. The Vermont Hotel and culture.

(54.968881 , -1.609873)

HOteLs 01. Malmaison newcastle 02. the Vermont Hotel 03. Hotel Indigo 04. Jesmond Dene House

12. The Broad Chare (54.969837 , -1.604583)

16. The Biscuit Factory (54.976564 , -1.598044)

restaurants

bars

GaLLerIes

05. House Of tides 06. raval Luxury restaurant & bar 07. Peace and Loaf 08. sIX

09. the bridge tavern 10. tokyo 11. Pleased to Meet You 12. the broad Chare

13. the Outsiders 14. baLtIC Centre For Contemporary art 15. Laing art Gallery 16. the biscuit Factory

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mapped

HOteLs 01 Malmaison Newcastle If the attractive views of the Tyne and Millennium Bridge don’t win you over then the stylish suites here certainly will. Unwind at the Malbar with one of their legendary classic cocktails, or tuck into the signature Malburger at the lavish Brassiere. malmaison.com 02 The Vermont Hotel Glitz, glamour and grandeur are the hallmarks of this city centre hotel. Situated close to monuments Castle Keep and Moot Hall, and within stumbling distance of numerous nightlife spots, this local landmark offers stylish suits, three deluxe bars and an upscale Brassiere and tearoom. vermont-hotel.com 03 Hotel Indigo Located in historic Grainger Town, Hotel Indigo is not only an ideal urban retreat but also one of the city’s premier (Marco Pierre White) steakhouses. Minimal interiors meet effortless style in each of the boutique bedrooms, while spa-inspired bathroom amenities ensure utter relaxation. hotelindigonewcastle.co.uk 04 Jesmond Dene House It’s hard to believe this beautiful boutique hotel is just minutes from Newcastle’s lively city centre. This eclectic 19th century Arts And Crafts building offers 40 bespoke bedrooms, an awardwinning restaurant and a scenic woodland backdrop. jesmonddenehouse.co.uk

BIG CITY/ Newcastle is situated on the River Tyne and is the most populous city in the North East of England

restaurants 05 House Of Tides Acclaimed chef Kenny Atkinson returns to his old stomping ground at renowned Newcastle restaurant House Of Tides. An exciting new opening for local foodies, expect dishes that celebrate Atkinson’s northern roots, but with a few fine dining flourishes. houseoftides.co.uk 06 Raval Sample the nation’s favourite dish at one of the nation’s best curry houses.

Raval takes the humble curry upmarket with its take on authentic Indian dishes, served in stylish

03

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contemporary surrounds. Select from the a la carte, or go all out with the seven-course tasting menu. ravaluk.com 07 Peace And Loaf With Masterchef Professionals finalist Dave Coulson in charge of the menu, Peace and Loaf is the epitome of northern culinary panache. Fresh ingredients and experimental flavour combinations make for an exciting gastronomic outing. peaceandloaf.co.uk 08 SIX Six floors up and offering panoramic views overlooking the Quayside area, Baltic’s rooftop restaurant has established itself as a sky high foodie haven. Enjoy seasonal British classics such as venison and Ingram Valley lamb, alongside local specialities such as Lindisfarne oysters. sixbaltic.com

08

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GaLLErIEs

bars 09 The Bridge Tavern This microbrewery-pub-restaurant is flying the flag for the craft beer movement up north. View the brewing quarters on the ground floor before sampling some exclusive in-house beers in the inviting bar area. The “bar bait” menu is pretty tempting, too. thebridgetavern.com 10

Tokyo For over a decade, Tokyo’s discreet facade has welcomed in-the-know individuals seeking expertly crafted, experimental cocktails. Sip on curious creations such as the Bacon Old Fashion or the Wasabi Martini, whilst soaking up the atmosphere in the dark and moody rooftop lounge. tokyonewcastle.co.uk

12 The Broad Chare Stripping away the flounce and fluff in favour of a classic pub experience, The Broad Chare has become a Newcastle institution. Order yourself a scotch egg and a pint of locally brewed beer and experience the joys of an old-fashioned English pub. thebroadchare.co.uk

15 Laing Art Gallery For the chance to see an exceptional collection of historical and contemporary art, Laing Art Gallery should be your first port of call. With a range of permanent collections on display, there’s no better place to explore Newcastle’s rich artistic legacy. twmuseums.org.uk 16 The Biscuit Factory Housed in a former Victorian warehouse, this enormous venue carries with it the lifeblood of Newcastle’s burgeoning arts scene. Divided into several dynamic gallery spaces, visitors can explore collections of contemporary sculpture, paintings, prints and much more. thebiscuitfactory.com

11

Pleased To Meet You Exposed brick walls and rustic wooden tables line the interiors of Pleased To Meet You. Routinely packed to the rafters, this historic Grade II listed building has been transformed into one of the city’s best gin and draft houses, with over 50 varieties to choose from. ptmy-newcastle.co.uk

14 Baltic Centre For Contemporary Art It’s hard to miss this huge industrial landmark, which stands proud on the banks of the River Tyne. With 3000sqm of art space spread across six floors and three mezzanines, there’s every type of art you could ever wish to encounter here. balticmill.com

12

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Words:hG2.com imaGes: corbis

The CAsTLe / Newcastle Upon Tyne owes its name to The castle (pictured), built in 1080

13 The Outsiders Venture to Steve Lazarides’ northern outpost and you’ll be greeted with the same unconventional approach to urban art that can be found in his London gallery. Get an up-close look at the renowned artwork – which comes courtesy of street art legends from around the world – and pick up a few hand-finished prints to take home. theoutsiders.net

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LOCAL KNOwLEDGE

Taste Kitchen

Acclaimed Dubai chefs Nick Alvis and Scott Price have traded high-end dining for unfussy, family-friendly food with the launch of their latest venture

C

hefs Nick Alvis and Scott Price met while working at Gordon Ramsay’s Claridge’s restaurant in London, before escaping the heat of the celebrity chef’s kitchen to run Ramsay’s

Words and images by Sandra Tinari

Verre at Hilton Dubai Creek in Dubai, and then taking over the space in 2011 and transforming it into one of the city’s most talked about restaurants, the awardwinning Table 9 by Nick and Scott.

Now, having left Hilton and Table 9 last year, Nick and Scott have traded

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‘fancy’ fare for authentic, familyfriendly cooking with the launch of their café concept Taste Kitchen.

“Taste Kitchen is about simple food, great flavours and quality ingredients put together in a modern, fuss-free way that tastes great – hence the name,” says Scott.

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IT’S HOW WE LIVE.

LOCAL KNOwLEDGE

good taste / Taste Kitchen is relaxed and family-friendly, but Nick and Scott are still dedicated to flavour and contemporary style

A relaxed, friendly atmosphere, where everyone is welcome, whether for a full meal or just a quick juice, on their own or with all the family, rests at the heart of the Taste Kitchen concept.

With the inaugural location having opened in Jumeirah’s Mercato Mall, and two others set to follow in Silicon Oasis and

Bur Dubai, Nick and Scott have decided to firmly set down roots in Dubai’s vibrant local food scene, rather than return to their native UK and its high-profile Michelinstarred restaurants.

“The city is young, the food scene is still developing and there’s lots of opportunity and scope here. People are willing to

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embrace change, they’re willing to take a risk and don’t shy away from pushing things forward or trying out new ideas,” Scott says, explaining their decision to stay in Dubai. “Over the past five years there’s been a move away from simply shipping international names or brands over here, and instead we’ve

LOCAL KNOwLEDGE started to celebrate homegrown talent, which is great. Things will hopefully continue to grow and become more exciting… Dubai deserves to be an exciting global food destination.”

The Brits might have left the long hours of restaurant life behind them, but their new venture presents a whole other challenge as the brand fast-expands with the backing of the Dubai-based Albwardy Investment Group, which owns Spinneys supermarkets and the local rights to the Waitrose supermarkets. Their aim is to establish Taste Kitchen as a strong

We Were offered an opportunity to create something neW

brand, with a reputation for good food, quality and consistency.

“There has always been much more to running a restaurant than just cooking. I think we all stopped counting the hours we work many, many years ago, it’s not a career you choose for the social life, that’s for sure,” says Scott with a laugh. “It’s been a very interesting learning experience and a great challenge and opportunity. We’ve utilised the values and skills that we’ve acquired over the years – from working our way up the ranks as chefs in London, to being managers at Table 9. We are all very hands on and one of us is there every day to support the teams in the restaurants. Taking a step back and giving our team a chance to prove themselves and take more responsibility is something we firmly believe in.

“Not a lot of chefs get to design a kitchen from scratch, to decide

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on the crockery, the décor, the menu – it’s been very exciting to do this from scratch. It’s great to write something down or draw it, and then see it come to life.”

But, why leave Table 9 at the height of its success?

“We are very proud of the team we built and the success we had with Table 9. It was a tough decision to leave, as we had been there over four years and achieved a lot, but we were offered an opportunity to create something new, completely from scratch with our own ideas and designs,” says Scott.

As a homegrown brand, Taste Kitchen has the advantage of knowing its customers and is focused on giving them what they want, and more. Since its October launch, the venture’s THE TALENT / Nick Alvis and Scott Price (pictured) have built a reputation as two of the most inventive chefs in Dubai

LOCAL KNOwLEDGE

first taste / Taste Kitchen at Mercato Mall in Jumeirah is the first of several cafés planned for Dubai

menu has proved popular, with standout dishes including smoked mackerel on toast, fresh pizzas cooked in a gas-fired pizza oven and chocolate mousse with malt ice cream. Taste Kitchen is also drawing Dubai’s demanding breakfast crowd, especially for the popular weekend brunch, with its signature big breakfast, fresh granola and yoghurt, cured salmon and egg dishes on toasted rye.

Fresh juices at the café’s juice bar are all made to order in-house.

“We’re a completely homegrown restaurant and are

highly tailored to the market.

We’ve added a lot of personal touches and done plenty of research into what people want.

We have a bar as a focal point of the restaurant, where all our

we’re a completely homegrown restaurant juices, smoothies, iced waters and coffees are all made in front of the guest to order,” Scott says.

“We want to offer high-quality, great tasting food that has a sense of our personality about it, but still

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appeals to someone who wants to go out for breakfast on a Friday morning. Relaxed, simple, tasty food is what Taste Kitchen is all about.”

Not ones to rest on their laurels, while Taste Kitchen is Nick and Scott’s core focus at present, the chefs have also hit the road to see what’s happening in the global food scene and are working on some other exciting ideas for the near future.

“There is a lot of opportunity in this fast growing city. We have worked hard to build a solid reputation in Dubai and are very excited about building on that with other projects in the future,” Scott says. facebook.com/TasteKitchenUAE

COLUMN

Back to Berlin

Veteran traveller Adrian Mourby takes a walk down memory lane, through the city he first discovered in 1989, just after the Wall came down and Berlin changed forever 71

Open skies / nOvember 2014

COLUMN

T

wenty-five years ago I came to Berlin for the first time. Earlier that month the infamous Wall had been breached. In 1989 Europe’s cruelly divided city was on the brink of transformation. I remember walking alongside the hideously naff Palace Of The People and up Unter den Linden. I passed the headquarters of the DDR Bank (already on its last legs) on Bebelplatz and crossed Friedrichstrasse, where the Stasi regularly bugged the tables at an old restaurant called Ganymed.

I remember walking up to the dead ground that had once been Pariser Platz. Up ahead was the Brandenburg Gate, blackened by time and war. This empty space, cleared of rubble and affording no cover for anyone making a bid to cross the Wall, had once been home to the best embassies in Berlin: the British, French and American. It had also been the location of the city’s finest hotel, The Adlon, but all of that had gone. It wasn’t even rubble. What I walked through was a wasteland, known until only recently as the “death strip”. On I walked to the Brandenburg Gate and under it as far as that big swollen arc that the Wall made as it bulged into West German territory.

And there ahead of me was the Wall itself, with gaps already broken through its concrete and its coving knocked off in places.

And I remember more strongly than anything joining a queue of laughing ostberliners, and then squeezing through one of those gaps and thinking that not since 1961 had a civilian been able to walk here without being shot. I picked up some fragments of the Wall – which I still have – to keep as a souvenir, something to remind me that I was

diverse history / The quadriga on top of the 18th century Brandenburg Gate in front of the Fernsehturm built in the DDR in the 1960s

lucky to have been born on the other side of that awful Iron Curtain.

Fast forward to today and the moribund Berlin of president Erich Honecker is unrecognisable. And yet, ironically, much of it might be recognisable to the German kings for whom this city was originally built.

As I stand now on the bridge that crosses the River Spree, Honecker’s woeful Palace Of The Republic is gone. This 1970s tribute to bad taste with its bronze windows, asbestos lining and giant chandeliers had been built over the City Palace of the Kaisers, which the president had insisted on demolishing. The Hohenzollern’s elegant 15th century structure had in fact survived the Second World War only to be demolished on ideological grounds and replaced with “Erich’s Light Shop” as East Germans called his People’s Palace.

It was an eyesore as well as a health hazard back in 1989, and for me it’s very satisfying to see that the City Palace is being rebuilt to look exactly as it did when Queen Victoria’s daughter arrived here in

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1858 to become Crown Princess of Prussia. On the inside there will be a modern art gallery and university conference centre.

Immediately opposite stands Museum Island, an actual island in the river Spree that contains the greatest concentration of art galleries and museums in Northern Europe. It looked in sore need of repair in 1989 and is now looking more its former self, but a sign says it won’t be finished until 2025.

So now I’m at the east end of Unter den Linden and, when I look across to the old DDR Bank headquarters, I see it’s now a Rocco Forte hotel, taking its name, the Hotel de Rome (hotelderome.de), from an old hotel that stood at this end of Under den Linden until 1910.

The DDR Bank did not survive long after the Wall was breached. Today you wouldn’t recognise the interior with all the extravagant furniture designer Olga Polizzi brings to all her brother’s hotels, but down by the basement swimming pool one of the strong-room doors remains locked, a massive piece

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of impenetrable metal, a reminder that this was where Ostmarks were stored during the time of the DDR. At the junction at Friedrichstrasse I go in search of Ganymed. It is still there on the banks of the Spree, although now there’s a splendid mosaic of the goddess Thalia over the front door. These days the restaurant where the Stasi eavesdropped is a French brasserie (ganymed-brasserie. de). Its director, Patrick Willems, is able to tell me great stories of Bertolt Brecht eating here in the days of the old DDR and of an American general treated to an excellent dinner at Ganymed, who leaned forward at the end of the evening and thanked the Stasi’s microphone (hidden in the flowers) for a most enjoyable meal.

Patrick also tells me that the mosaic of Thalia over the door had always been there, but in the Communist era it had been concreted over because everyone had been told to suppress signs of affluence.

Returning to Unter den Linden I head towards Brandenburg Gate

and Pariser Platz, negotiating my way past bright blue pipes that are redirecting the city’s water supply while underneath this gracious boulevard a new U-bahn line is being built. U-bahn 5 will reunite Alexanderplatz, the old focal point of East Berlin, with the Brandenburg Gate and travel on into the former West Berlin. This line is another big project for a city, once cut in two and still joining up the pieces. U-Bahn 5 will not open until 2019.

As I approach Pariser Platz the Brandenburg Gate is instantly recognisable, but where an East German checkpoint once stood facing empty ground, Hotel Adlon has been rebuilt. Back in 1989 this whole area was levelled like a bombsite, but from 1907 until 1945 the Adlon had stood here as the best and most modern hotel in Berlin. In the last days of the Second World War it was accidentally burned down by Red Army soldiers who had broken into its cellars. Then in 1984 the

CULTURAL HUB / The Alte Nationalgalerie (Old National Gallery) is one of many located on Museum Island in the river Spree

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ruins were demolished, leaving the landscape even more desolate.

The British, French and American embassies that used to stand here before the world had already gone, blown up during air-raids on Germany. So nothing stood here 25 years ago, just that blackened gate and the Wall beyond. How much has changed! All three embassies are back, as is the Adlon (hoteladlon.de), now Adlon Kempinski) and Pariser Platz has coffee shops and a festival atmosphere as tourists pose for photos with locals dressed up as grim-faced East German soldiers and characters from Star Wars.

Finally I walk though the Brandenburg Gate, which has been restored now to how it looked in 1814. Look closely and you can still make out where bullet holes have been repaired. The figure on top with the four horses is once again Victory. From 1791 until 1814 a goddess of peace had stood on this gate but after the defeat of Napoleon, Berlin added an iron cross and Prussian eagle to her laurel wreath and renamed her Victory.

Back in 1989 she was in pretty poor condition but in the 1990s the whole gate was restored at a cost of €6million. Twenty-five years on you might say she represents the victory of peace in Europe.

As to the Wall, nothing remains of it here but a simple double line of bricks set into ground as traffic rushes past north and south. East and west.

The nightmare of those terrible years when a regime kept its people prisoner is not forgotten but it’s fading. When I picked up my bits of the Wall 25 years ago I had no idea that a tourist industry was beginning, but that is what Berlin’s past is becoming. But better part of the tourist industry than ever repeated.

IMAGeS: GeTTY IMAGeS, CORBIS IMAGeS

COLUMN

Inside CERN Behind the scenes at the world’s largest physics laboratory

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OUR MAN IN: Naturalist and conservationist Irshad Mobarak’s Langkawi IbIzA IN THE MIDDLE EAST: The world’s most famous nightclub, Pacha, opens in Dubai

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CHRISTOPHER BEANLAND AND PHOTOGRAPHER DANIEL GEBHART DE KOEKKOEK VISIT THE WORLD’S LARGEST PHYSICS LABORATORY, WHICH RECENTLY CELEBRATED ITS 60TH ANNIVERSARY

wo metal cylinders bigger than jet engines face off as if in preparation for a gargantuan battle of the machines. A shiny rod, like an oversized drill bit but longer than an average size car, protrudes from one cylinder and penetrates the other.

This is the Compact Muon Solenoid (CMS) Cavern, located beneath the municipality of Meyrin on the outskirts of Geneva, where the Swiss city’s suburbs melt into rolling green countryside on the border with France. The Jura Mountains, shrouded with fog, rise up in the distance. There is little to suggest that a manmade miracle is occurring here under my feet. Only the brown, boxy, functional buildings in a field hint at what lies beneath.

The CMS Cavern inspires awe.

The experiments carried out here are changing the world. It's a big opera-

T

tion. Every second the data produced from the CMS experiments can equal the entire content of the Encyclopaedia Britannica. If they ran the experiments for 10 years, the data they'd acquire would be more than all the words spoken by humans throughout our entire history. It takes some very special scientists to make sense of it.

The tangle of wires alone is enough to boggle the average mind. Kilometres of cables dangle everywhere.

“When my mother came she said it's like spaghetti down here!” jokes Portuguese physicist André David, who has worked on the CMS experiment at CERN for a decade.

All around the cavern silvery surfaces glitter and glint, interspersed with red, green, yellow and brown panels. The equipment appears rudimentary in a way. It's looks like a child's toy set from some angles, from others like the interior of a space ship. We all wear orange

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hard hats, cementing the idea in my mind that something dangerous lurks somewhere down here.

The scientists at CERN are, after all, playing with the matter that started the world – and if something went wrong it could be the end of it.

The scientists here helped identify the Higgs boson back in 2012. Now they're looking for dark matter – the very building blocks of the universe we live in. The huge detector they use to do this is 20m long and 15m in diameter. It's made of many layers and it identifies the energy and momentum of photons, electrons and muons from the Large Hadron Collider. “It's like a giant camera,” says French press officer Julie Haffner, as we both lean over the green rail on a walkway halfway up the side of the CMS Cavern, marvelling at CERN’s magnitude.

A dozen European countries founded the Conseil Européen

cern was to be at the forefront of physics research - and it still is

pour la Recherche Nucléaire, to give CERN its full name, in 1952.

The village of Meyrin, near Geneva International Airport, was chosen as the site for a super-lab to investigate the very smallest parts of our world – atoms. The sod was cut in 1954. In 1957 the first particle accelerator, the Synchrocyclotron, was built. But CERN was to be at the forefront of physics research – and it still is. Tim Berners Lee invented the World Wide Web here in 1989,

before the first website went live in 1991. CERN's proudest moment came on July 4, 2012, when scientists excitedly announced that the Higgs boson had been discovered.

The Higgs boson is an elementary particle that lies at the root of physics. This was an electrifying discovery. And it was made possible by the Large Hadron Collider (LHC), which runs in a 27km tunnel under the ground. It's a perfect circle.

Atoms are smashed into each other

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in the LHC by forces we can't even begin to comprehend.

The first time I heard about CERN was when British comedian and film director Chris Morris, who seldom breaks cover, wrote an article about his visit to the world’s largest physics laboratory. I was intrigued – and have wanted to visit ever since.

Morris made a podcast of his visit and the chat he had with pop star-turned astronomer and BBC presenter Brian Cox. Morris plays with Cox, remind-

yes, you can do black holes. but i’m not sure about destroying the whole universe

ing him that he'd earlier mentioned how the LHC “could destroy the whole universe”. They both laugh.

But could it?

Luca Bottura, leader of the MSC (Magnets, Superconductors and Cryostats) group, agrees to take me down to see it. We descend slowly in a lift, 100m below the ground. “If there's an evacuation you use the lift, not the stairs,” says Bottura. I nod.

We pass through a series of electric doors like we're breaking into the villain’s lair in a James Bond movie.

Then we reach the LHC tunnel. It's cold. It's bright from the fluorescent lighting. Could this really destroy the whole universe? “Yes, you can do black holes,” says Bottura, a friendly

Italian from Parma. “But I'm not sure about destroying the whole universe!” In fact CERN is safety-mad.

You can see the tunnel curving round (it's a huge circle). Bottura shows me the magnets and accelerators that fire the particles round the circuit – bending, compressing and directing the atoms. Some of the magnets and machines look like car engines and some like mini submarines.

I'm taken with a huge magnet made by scientists from the USA and Japan; it is called Xena, and has that name painted on its orange side along with the flags of the two countries. Then Bottura points towards the “chambre pantalon”, so named because it mixes the two beams of

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particles down from two to one like trouser legs. Bottura explains how tricky it is to get the magnets down here into the tunnel; they're lifted by a crane into a shaft, which stretches down from ground level, and then moved into place by little trucks that can only travel at three kilometres per hour. Bottura talks about what might come next for CERN. “We want to do even more events, accelerating more particles, use new materials and super conducting magnets,” he says. “Maybe even we could build a 100km long circular tunnel.”

Next, Bottura takes me up to his magnet factory – an aircraft hangar filled with magnets being tested and repaired. It is science on an industrial

there are 10,000 visiting scientists at cern, from 113 countries - 50 per cent of the particle physicists on the planet scale. In the floor of the foyer is a map you can walk over, which shows the LHC tunnel extending in a perfect circle – and sometimes running under nearby villages. Bottura explains that the residents don't mind because CERN always offers them tours and open days. The magnet factory is popular – we funnel past groups of visitors on tours, schoolchildren and families and some pensioners. Anyone can come to CERN and see these spaces, but we are incredibly lucky to be taken down into the LHC tunnel, where tour groups are not allowed to venture. When it's switched on again in 2015 for the next round of experiments, not even CERN's scientists will be permitted into the tunnel, as the radiation levels will make it too dangerous for humans.

The LHC is the place where the atom smashing takes place, and then there are seven particle-detecting experiments that analyse what happens. CMS alone takes up the time of thousands of scientists. There are 10,000 visiting

scientists at CERN, from 113 countries – 50 per cent of the particle physicists on the planet. The numbers at CERN start to become very big, and very crazy, very quickly. The site is so huge we are ferried around in cars. In fact, there are several sites and it takes 20 minutes to drive from Andre David's CMS building to Luca Bottura's magnet hangar.

We see offices and labs as we pass through CERN. Some scientists are suited and booted, others are scruffy.

At lunchtime, in the canteen, CERN staff laugh and chat – some look suave and some sombre. It's a very international, very exciting environment. A United Nations of science.

It reminds me of my alma mater, Leeds University, with its rambunctious air, enthusiastic chatter, its slightly clapped-out 1960s corridors.

We stop by the office of Professor Jonathan Ellis CBE, a famous theoretical physicist from London. “I've been working here for 41 years,” he shouts over to me as Daniel photographs him sat behind his desk. His

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office is full of hundreds of stacks of papers, a blackboard with “John Ellis rocks” scribbled on it and a skeleton dangling from the wall. “The office certainly suits me!” Ellis says. A scientific colleague Skypes him, and he explains that he can't talk right now.

We head upstairs. “This was the first European institution that got people together after the war,” says CERN's director general, Rolf-Dieter Heuer, who has agreed to a rare interview. We meet Heuer in his office, and he welcomes us as he shuffles papers containing the latest scientific breakthroughs from the site.

“CERN's role is bridging cultures and bridging nations, research at the forefront of technology, which pushes back the frontiers of knowledge, and education of young people,” says the 66 year-old German physicist, who studied at Stuttgart and Heidelberg Universities and has run CERN since 2009. He's spent the morning handling “supervisory body meetings” and “getting the guest list together for the 60th anniversary cel-

This was The firsT european insTiTuTion ThaT goT people TogeTher afTer The war

Some ScientiStS are Suited and booted, otherS are Scruffy

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different people, technichians, students, different nationalities – that’s the charm of cern ebrations”, while we had our hard hats on, marvelling at the machines.

“Different people, technicians, students, different nationalities – that's the charm of CERN,” Heuer says proudly. “Everyone works together, small wheels in a large machine – but the machine cannot work without those small wheels. Collaboration is essential, but also competition is.” CERN is a political gesture, of that there is no doubt. And what a gesture, with so many countries working together.

Heuer tells me about a project in the Middle East that could potentially do the same amazing work.

“SESAME is a new infrastructure in Jordan,” he explains. “It's a scientific lab modelled after CERN, which encourages co-operation.”

SESAME (Synchrotron-Light For Experimental Science And Applications In The Middle East) was set up at Allan, Jordan, in 2002, and it’s hoped it will be completed next year and physics experiments can begin in earnest. “The people involved include Turkey, Cyprus, the Palestinian Authority, Israel, Jordan, Bahrain, Egypt, Pakistan.”

In troubled times, this kind of scientific co-operation seems remarkable and commendable.

In a way CERN – despite its futuristic outlook – is a remnant of a previous era. The spirit you

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the spirit you sense and the buildings you see, even the experiments with all their wires, are reminiscent of the 1950s and 1960s

director general / Rolf-Dieter Heuer has been in charge of CERN since 2009

sense and the buildings you see, even the experiments with all their wires, are reminiscent of the 1950s and 1960s. CERN reminds you of a time when we all really believed that technology and our ability to conquer and harness it were going to create incredible new worlds. That time when we dreamt of space stations and nuclear power and high-tech living seems to live on here in Geneva. And that is a wonderful thing. The human spirit seems alive here. Progress seems alive here. These scientists are at the very tip of the spear of knowledge. They're creating and learning and test-

ing, and they end up with incredible outcomes that stun us. And it's all for peace – the technology here is not used for weapons. And every day they go to work in this frenzied, fun, yet serious atmosphere. CERN shows us what we can do when we work together. As it celebrates its 60th birthday we should celebrate what it stands for.

“Do you want to photograph me standing up?” Heuer asks Dan. Dan nods. Heuer laughs. “I'll need to change out of my jeans into trousers then!” cern.ch

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The HAIG CLUB word and associated logos are trade marks. ŠDiageo Brands B.V. 2014. Please Drink Responsibly.

IRSHAD MOBARAK Naturalist/conservationist, 55

OUR MAN IN…

Langkawi

Known affectionately as the ‘Junglewalla’, the founder of Natural History Tours, TV personality and Malaysia’s best-known naturalist and conservationist believes that only nature can show us the way Images: Mark Eveleigh

I

like to describe myself as ‘an optimistic conservationist’. We are a rare breed. I believe that if we’re intelligent enough to learn from nature, and to adapt as evolution has taught us, then we still have a chance to undo the harm we’ve done to our planet. Above all, we must try to learn from nature – try to adapt quickly.

Although I’m best known in Malaysia for my appearances on television programmes as the Junglewalla, I’m also resident naturalist at The Datai on Langkawi, one of Malaysia’s leading luxury resorts.

This little island is just over half the size of Bahrain or Singapore, but it has more birdlife than the whole of England. You can even see the Wreathed Hornbill and the Great Hornbill, which from the tip of its beak to the tip of its tail measures 1.30m.

Langkawi is one of the most incredibly ancient patches of real estate in the world. Machinchang Mountain, on Langkawi’s north coast, is the oldest mountain in the Malay Peninsula; 240 million years ago, that great craggy outcrop of rock was still part of the so-

called supercontinent of Gondwanaland (comprising what would later become Australia, Africa and South America). Then, 200 million years ago, tectonic forces pushed Machinchang above the surface of the sea to create Langkawi Island. In fact, glacial dropstones from the Antarctic that date back an incredible one billion years have been found on Machinchang.

This is the perfect place to try to understand what evolution really means. There are species on this island that you can find in very few places. Langkawi is home to what I call the ‘Fabulous Flying Five’: we have flying snakes, flying squirrels, flying foxes, flying dragons and one of the world’s most unusual animals, the flying lemur. Often called the colugo, the skin monkey or even the cloaked monkey, it’s certainly the strangest animal on the island, and has caused science no end of confusion since it was first described in 1757. Carl Von Linnaeus, the father of taxonomy, first classified it as a gliding primate – Dermoptera. Later he was corrected, and in subsequent decades the colugo continued to be shifted from one pigeonhole to the next. Now it seems

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RARE BIRD / Malaysia is home to bird species such as the Wreathed Hornbill (top left) flIght tImE / The flying lemur or colugo is one of the strangest animals on Langkawi, according to Mobarak (bottom left) hIgh tImES / Machinchang Mountain (above right) is the oldest mountain in the Malay Peninsula

that new DNA evidence suggests that Linnaeus was indeed correct, and that the colugo may be the world’s only flying primate, after all.

Datai Bay is arguably the best place in the world to see colugos soaring through the canopy; I helped National Geographic capture amazing footage of them when they came to film here recently.

Langkawi is becoming known as one of Asia’s wildlife hotspots. You see herds of barking deer browsing on Datai beach, and big troops of macaques and spectacled langur monkeys. What I really appreciate about the walks I do here is that they give me the perfect opportunity to enthuse a wide cross-section of the public with the potential for modern man, if we can only learn to evolve.

Darwin wrote that in nature it is not the strongest, nor the more intelligent, that is successful, but rather those most adaptable to change. He didn’t actually coin the term ‘survival of the fittest’ – it was wrongly attributed to him in the fifth edition of On The Origin of Species (after his death).

The new field of science known as biomimicry is opening up a whole range of possibilities. Nature can teach us designs, processes and complete systems. From the beak of the kingfisher we’ve designed more efficient highspeed trains. The Begonia plant lives in the world’s densest jungles, where only 10 per cent of the sunlight can filter through the canopy, yet droplets of water collected on its leaves make it super-efficient at harvesting that life-

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Since 2005, we’ve been keeping pace with Dubai’s rapid growth, lending mobility to the city’s vision with a smart and integrated transport system.

Constantly evolving with every passing year, the Roads and Transport Authority, connects Dubai in more ways than one.

The road ahead looks promising.

Let’s keep moving.

irshad-mobarak.com

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IMages: Mark eveLeIgh, getty IMages, COrBIs IMages

giving light. By mimicking this simple solution we could mitigate energy needs by designing indoor solar panels for low-light environments such as high-rise buildings and apartment-blocks. The humble coral polyp has shown us how to produce cement at ambient temperatures in a far more effective and environmentally friendly way. We’ve ignored nature’s teaching for far too long, but the coral polyp, the kingfisher and the Begonia are only a few examples of how nature could teach us to live in balance if we make the effort to learn.

When I was nine years old I started a small business selling packages made out of big jungle leaves to market vendors in our little town. They were simple, tough little ‘envelopes’ that could be used to carry fish, meat and tofu. They were, of course, completely biodegradable, and my friends and I could harvest them sustainably from the forest. We sold them by the bunch for very little but, even at that price, we couldn’t compete when plastics arrived in our town. By the time I was 12 my little business was bankrupt and our marketplace was already becoming a garbage tip. It was an early lesson that I’ve never forgotten.

Malaysia’s incredible wildlife, from the forest elephants of the mainland, to the orangutans of Malaysian Borneo, to the colugos here on Langkawi, has completely thrilled me since I was a little boy. The most unusual job I’ve ever done was to be a banker.

I was a banker for fourand-half-years but, in all honesty, I joined the bank YOUNG LOVE / because they had a good Mobarak has been “thrilled” by Malaysia’s athletics and rugby team wildlife, including that I wanted to join. the orangutans of I’ve been very Malaysian Borneo fortunate to have carved (top), since childhood this reputation as the EVOLUTIONARY Junglewalla, and to spend THEORY / so much time in the forest Mobarak agrees on Langkawi. Nature with Charles Darwin (middle) that the most never sits still here. The seasons are constantly changing even in a rainforest: if you successful species are come here during the September-October wet season there are millions of fireflies and those that adapt best butterflies; with the first substantial rains, the lung fish (a living fossil in evolutionary to change terms) comes out of hibernation to migrate to floodplains, sometimes crossing roads in mONkEY bUsINEss / little queues one behind the other. I like the dry season best, because, unlike a desert, Langkawi is home to which bursts into bloom during a rare rain-shower, here on Langkawi the rainforest many monkey species, begins flowering at the start of the three-month dry season that falls from December to incuding the spectacled langur (bottom) February. For many birds and mammals this is the season of love and courtship. It’s an amazing time. Love is literally in the air on Langkawi.

LAST SUMMER PACHA PARTED WAYS WITH MANY OF ITS BIG-NAME DJS AND THE MUSICAL DIRECTOR WHO BOOKED THEM. IT MARKED THE BEGINNING OF A NEW ERA FOR IBIZA’S MOST FAMOUS BRAND. THE CHANGES CONTINUE THIS MONTH WITH A NEW CLUB OPENING IN THE HEART OF DUBAI WORDS: GARY EVANS 104

G

iuseppe Nuzzo would start his sets at midnight, spinning all the way through to sunrise. His day began around 4pm: Simon Le Bon’s place for brunch, paella at Roman Polanski’s hilltop villa.

He’d eat and drink with visiting actors, directors and musicians, and make plans with fellow DJs and club owners. He’d drive down from rolling green hills, into old Vila d’Eivissa with its imposing cathedral and cobbled streets and yachts in the harbour, and out of town along the dusty roads leading to Pacha.

Here, in the little whitewashed finca dressed up as a nightclub, Nuzzo played records for princes, playboys and draft dodgers‚ all side by side on the dancefloor. This was the mid-1980s. The club was still learning how to be a club. He recalls once looking out from the booth and seeing a horse stood beneath the lights. There was no VIP area in Pacha, he recalls: everyone in Pacha was a VIP. “From the beginning I fell in love with Pacha,” the Italian says. “I identify with its spirit. The message the club sends to everyone is: feel free through music.”

Over the past 30 years Nuzzo‚ better known as DJ Pippi‚ has become synonymous with Pacha. He began his residency in 1984 and it changed his life.

“No other club created such an impact on club culture as Pacha,” he says. “Remember, most legendary clubs, like Studio 54‚ they do not exist any more. But Pacha has survived all the trends over the years. Pacha creates the trends.”

The older Ibicencos talk about their island using two terms: antes and ahoy. There was Ibiza then and there is Ibiza now; an island before and after tourism.

Pacha doesn’t quite predate tourism. But some half-century since its inception, the island it calls home is almost unrecognisable.

Package holidays happened. Cheap hotels happened. Booze cruises and foam parties and Ibiza Uncovered happened. Clubs became superclubs. Budget airlines began flying. More than ever before dance music is big business; the island in and of itself became a brand. Many competitors have fallen by the wayside while the club with the distinctive two cherry logo flourishes, grown from humble beginnings into a global brand with branches around the world.

Its roots are and always will be in Ibiza.

But in recent years, even this flagship venue

OPEN SKIES / NOVEMBER 2014

pacha original / DJ Pippi has been playing at Pacha since 1984

has faltered. It, too, failed to escape the effects of an island and industry in flux. Pacha severed ties with both the DJs synonymous with the club and the man behind the scenes who booked them, the musical director that helped build to the brand into the institution it is today.

So its latest venture, a three-floor venue in the heart of Dubai, is a doubly interesting proposition. Organisers say it marks a new chapter in the storied history of Pacha.

South from SitgeS In 1976 Toni Riera took his first photograph of the Hotel Montesol. The shot shows a section of the facade of the oldest hotel in Ibiza: three stories, nine windows. In front of each shuttered window on balconies stand Pacha patrons and employees. Big hair, wide trousers. The topless hippie. The moustachioed musician. A woman who appears to be holding aloft a python. This is: The Pacha Family. New Ibiza invading establishment Ibiza.

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Riera’s image appeared on the first of many iconic Pacha posters, the Spanish photographer continuing to document the changing face of the club for the next 40 years.

Franco still ruled Spain when Pacha first opened its doors. Ricardo and Piti Urgell set up shop 35km southwest of Barcelona in the seaside town Sitges. That was in 1967, and the club is still going strong to this day, but it was this move south that saw the brothers and their brand shape club culture for the next five decades.

Ricardo bought the plot of land on which Pacha Ibiza still stands in 1971. It cost him around US$14,000. He had a modest finca, a Spanish-style farmhouse, set in its own half-acre of land. His closest neighbour was a school.

Locals said no one would travel that far out of town to visit a discotheque. Two years later the club opened.

“Pacha Ibiza has a very special history,” DJ Pippi says. “It is one that cannot be compared to others clubs in Europe or in the rest of the world. It is unique. Playing

Open skies / nOvember 2014

the family / Spanish photographer Toni Riera took this image of ‘The Pacha Family’ at Hotel Montesol in 1986

there was, for me, a big challenge. I did not know how sophisticated the owners and the famous people who came to the club were going to be.”

The Italian brought with him his love of black music and some experimental techniques: he remembers on equipment rudimentary by today’s standards playing two copies of the same record‚ something by Sade or Grace Jones‚ creating phasing, echo effects. House music arrived, which Pippi embraced, cementing Pacha’s music policy: dance music at its core, more experimental stuff in orbit.

A wAy of life In 1986 Toni Riera took his second photograph of the Hotel Montesol. At the windows there are, according to the caption on Pacha’s website, fewer hippies and more yuppies. The Urgells had recently added to the finca a main room and VIP area. The location hadn’t changed, but it was no longer as secluded as it once was. Parties now took place entirely indoors.

It was in the summer of 1986 Pacha helped create the model that is now the norm for clubs around the world. José Padilla founded Moondance, the first regular party by an external promoter, as opposed to one organised in-house‚ hosting DJs such as Sasha and John Digweed.

“Pacha’s strength is in this fantasy world it creates,” Pippi, who’s now been living in Ibiza and playing the

club for over 30 years, says. “The club is always coming up with new events and able to reinvent itself. Pacha was never a simple disco-club. Pacha means music culture, music entertainment. It’s a lifestyle.”

In 2005, Toni Riera took his third ‘Montesol’ photo.

Side by side with Pacha PRs and dancers stand DJs Roger Sanchez, Erick Morillo and Pete Tong.

Morillo had recently started what was to be a decade-long residency at the Ibiza club; for many years, his Subliminal Sessions was one of Pacha biggest draws.

But the Urgells chose not to renew the American DJ’s contract for the 2013 summer season. Gone, too, Tong, Tiesto and Luciano. Each guaranteed a full a dancefloor, tickets offering little change from €100, but also demanded in appearance fees more than US$100,000 a night. Ricardo and Piti decided the EDM (Electronic Dance Music) bubble had stretched to bursting point.

The DJs wanted more money to play less, Piti told The New York Times. It was an abuse. We had to come up with a new plan because the old one was going to explode.

Perhaps the biggest surprise was the Urgells’ decision to end a 13-year relationship with musical director Danny Whittle, for many the face of Pacha.

The brand as its known today blossomed during Whittles tenure. He believed in the blockbuster DJ, the big draw, and was committed to ensuring as many people as possible knew the significance of the two cherries: Pacha Magazine, Pacha Recordings, Pacha Restaurants, Pacha On Tour, Pacha Sailboat, Pacha DJ Agency and franchises opened everywhere from the US to Russia, Brazil to Egypt.

“This is going to cost them a fortune,” Whittle said in repose. “I am either dealing with madness or genius.”

This summer and last have proved more evolution than revolution, though talking business / Piti’s party, Flower Power, Ricardo Urgell co-founded becoming a weekly rather Pacha with his brother Piti than monthly event serves in 1967. Here he is chatting with Pacha resident DJ Pippi up a slice of Ibiza past. And

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PACHA IBIZA DUBAI WILL TRANSPORT YOU TO THE BEST NIGHTS OF IBIZA

THE FUTURE / Pacha Ibiza Dubai opens at Madinat Jumeirah this month

that’s the Urgells’ plan: to recapture something of the old Ibiza, a return to antes.

Such changes mean that Pacha Ibiza Dubai is a different proposition to previous franchises.

IBIZA IN THE MIDDLE EAST “Pacha Ibiza Dubai is quite unique compared to the other Pachas around the world, as it is the first franchise of our new concept and promises to bring to the venue the whole Pacha Ibiza lifestyle, the real spirit of Ibiza,” says Marta Planells.

Pacha’s global franchise director sees some similarities between Dubai and Ibiza. Culturally very different, Planells accepts, she feels something in the city’s “free-spirited lifestyle” that reminds her of the Balearics: tourists out to enjoy themselves, expats on working holidays lasting a lifetime.

But Planells wants the venue to be more than just a club. Pacha Ibiza Dubai opens weekdays, with a restaurant and rooftop terrace alongside the club. The venue covers three floors in a 40-hectare, five-star resort in Madinat Jumeirah. Also making the trip east are Pacha’s famous, and indeed infamous, live shows.

The club takes over the Souk Madinat space previously occupied by nightclub Trilogy. It’s a 27,000sqft venue with a proposed 1,500 capacity. A big club, but not so big that the best DJs can’t make it feel intimate.

“Madinat Jumeirah is very centrally located and accessible from all areas of the city,” Planells says. “It attracts a lot of tourists and expat citizens who we

believe make the prime target market for Pacha Ibiza Dubai. The space provided by Madinat Jumeirah is the perfect space in which to showcase Pacha’s three elements, representing the best of Ibiza lifestyle.

“Souk Madinat is a hospitality hub in the city, full of renowned hotels and restaurants. We believe the dining, show and club aspect of Pacha Ibiza Dubai will really bring something unique to Souk Madinat. We will of course bring recognised international DJs. But there are a lot of gifted people within the Middle East region and we are working on a strategy to promote the local talent as well.”

Numerous similar big-name brands have set up shop in the UAE to varying degrees of success. But Planells is not concerned about what is an increasingly competitive market. “It is true that many major international brands come to Dubai. However, all that comes with them is a brand name. There is no spirit or essence of the flagship property from which the brand originated. We believe we are bringing a unique concept that doesn’t exist in Dubai. Pacha Ibiza Dubai will transport you to the best nights of Ibiza.”

“Pacha is more than a club, “ says Sarah Main. “It’s an institution, an experience, a feeling. It’s warmer and more inviting than the other superclubs. When you enter it feels like you just walked into a huge party in your own lounge room. We all find our own place in Pacha. You feel like it was built only for you.”

Throughout all its recent changes the Australian remains as one of Pacha’s resident DJs, playing franchises around the world. Main joined in 2001, eventually relocating to Ibiza, and says no matter how big the brand becomes, it still feels like family-run business.

Three generations of Urgells currently work for the company, a family that extends beyond blood ties. People stay with Pacha their whole lives, start out as PRs or dancers and work their way up. Other clubs, Main argues, simply cannot compete with this kind of history and heritage. You feel it as soon as you step into any one of its venues, which makes its new venture in Dubai so exciting.

“I played my first gig in Dubai in the same venue where the new Pacha will be – for a Pacha party, too. The venue was already a beautiful space and with the Pacha Ibiza touch it’ll go beyond anything I’ve experienced so far in Dubai. The authenticity of the brand will set it apart from the other clubs, a one-of-a-kind atmosphere that comes from Pacha’s values, its freedom and joie de vivre.

It has an ageless class. I feel that energy from the crowd: everyone feels like they are part of something special.”

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For more informaƟon about us visit our website: molgroup.info

Dubai Football Challenge Emirates-sponsored teams Real Madrid and AC Milan face off in Dubai

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briefing hop-on, hop-off dubai tour: A new sightseeing bus tour from dnata CitY GuidE: Our guide to Dar es Salaam routEmap: Discover the world as connected by Emirates

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news WORLD-CLASS FOOTBALL IN DUBAI

UEFA ChAmpIONS LEAgUE 2013/14 WINNERS REAL mADRID WILL FACE AC mILAN, WINNERS OF 18 INTERNATIONAL TITLES, IN ThE DUBAI FOOTBALL ChALLENgE.

Dubai’s Department Of Tourism And Commerce Marketing (DTCM) and Emirates Airline have announced that the friendly match will take place at The Sevens stadium in Dubai on 30th December.

The two Emirates Airlinesponsored clubs are set to bring their star players to the UAE for the match, which will take place in front of a crowd of 40,000.

Tickets, which are now on sale at Virgin Megastore and Time Out Tickets, cost from Dhs200, and are expected to sell out in record time.

Hamad Mohammed Bin Mejren, Executive Director of Dubai Convention And Events

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Bureau at DTCM, a co-ordinating partner of the Dubai Football Challenge, said the match “marks a truly magnificent end to what has been a fantastic year for football”.

“Thanks to the World Cup, we have seen the obsession with the beautiful game hit fever pitch amongst locals, expats and visitors alike, so it’s the perfect time to bring this world-class match to the emirate,” he added.

Luxury Yacht Charter

Select from our fleet of Luxury Yachts - 53ft to 86ft Come aboard our luxury yachts and experience iconic Dubai like never before from water sports to leisure getaways to classy corporate events. We offer the perfect packages to suit your needs.

Mention ‘EK-OS’ to our customer service team, and enjoy a complimentary Rolls Royce pick up for your bookings on any of our yachts from 78ft onwards.

Yacht services also available for fishing trips, sightseeing tours, luxury dinner cruise & custom events for small or large groups.

Call now to book your xclusive experience

04 432 7233

info@xclusiveyachts.com | www.xclusiveyachts.com

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news NEW HOP-ON, HOP-OFF DUBAI TOUR

TRAVEL SERVICE PROVIDER DNATA AND PARTNER CITY SIGHTSEEING WORLDWIDE have launched Dubai’s

newest hop-on, hop-off bus tour, City Sightseeing.

Showcasing Dubai’s worldrenowned skyline and landmarks, sightseers benefit from modern double-decker buses, a dozen language options and 27 different location stops around the city. “dnata has seen this city grow and become one of the world’s most popular destinations,” said Iain Andrew, DSVP, dnata Travel.

“Many visitors come to Dubai wanting to take in all the city has to offer in a convenient and fun way, and City Sightseeing delivers.

Each passenger will see Dubai’s sights from the most modern, comfortable double-decker buses available, offering the best perspective of the city.”

City Sightseeing has three routes – Red, Blue and Green – which aim to capture Dubai’s heritage and future.

The Blue Route offers 12 stops, including Dubai Mall, Burj Khalifa, Jumeirah Mosque, Jumeirah Beach Park, the Umm Suqeim Public Beach and Madinat Jumeirah, taking guests onto the iconic Palm Jumeirah and ending at the Mall of the Emirates.

Its Red Route has 16 stops, including the Gold Souk, the Spice Souk, Dubai Mall, Dhow Cruise, Bastakia, the Dubai Museum and, finally, the Old Souk.

The Green Route stops at Deira City Centre, the transfer point between Green and Red routes, Dubai Airport Terminal 3 and Dubai Airport Terminal 1.

“We’re coming to Dubai with a fresh perspective and we can’t wait to bring our tours to this city and

Get to your gate on time Don't miss your flight Please make sure you get to your boarding gate on time.

Boarding starts 45 minutes before your flight and gates close 20 minutes before departure. If you report late we will not be able to accept you for travel.

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its visitors,” said Enrique Ybarra, president and CEO, City Sightseeing WorldWide. “There is no better way to experience a city than from the comfort and convenience of a City Sightseeing double-decker bus. Our unique commentary tailored for children, ensures every member of the family will learn about this city’s amazing past, present, and future.”

Tickets for City Sightseeing tours can be purchased at the airport from marhaba and Arabian Adventures, as well as City Sightseeing's kiosks, website (citysightseeing-dubai.com) and bus operators at each stop. Ticket prices vary, with 24 and 48-hour options, single and family packages available.

There is a shuttle bus service for client pick-up at the airport and dropoff at Deira City Centre. Shuttle pickup is every 30 minutes, and connects customers to all three routes.

Your home in Dubai

• • • • • • • •

Located in the heart of Dubai Opposite Metro Station Walking distance to Burj Khalifa, world’s tallest skyscraper Dubai Airport - 15 min Abu Dhabi Airport - 45 min Walking distance to shopping malls Close to Business Hubs (DIFC and DWTC) Spa and Outdoor Swimming Pool

Sheikh Zayed Road, P.O Box 116957 Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 4 323 0000 | Fax: +971 4 323 0003 www.emiratesgrandhotel.com

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news A380 TO HOUSTON & SAN FRANCISCO

EMIRATES IS ADDING TWO MORE A380 ROUTES TO THE USA with non-

stop services to San Francisco and Houston, bringing the total A380 destinations in the US to five cities.

From 1st December, the Emirates A380 will fly to San Francisco International Airport, and starting 3rd December to Houston’s George Bush Intercontinental Airport.

The airline also recently launched a daily A380 service to Dallas/Fort Worth in October.

Passengers in all cabin classes can enjoy Emirates’ renowned service provided by a multilingual

crew representing more than 130 nationalities, savour gourmet cuisine and immerse themselves in the award-winning inflight entertainment system, ice Digital Widescreen, which offers more than 1,800 channels of films, TV programmes, music and podcasts. Passengers will not miss a beat while traveling on the A380 as Emirates makes it easy to stay connected to family, friends and colleagues on the ground with a wide range of communications options including onboard Wi-Fi. The First Class and Business Class experiences truly set Emirates apart.

Guests in the First Class cabin enjoy Private Suites and can arrive at their destination feeling refreshed and prepared for a business meeting or adventure after experiencing the two onboard Shower Spas. Emirates is the only airline to offer this exclusive feature in the sky.

First Class and Business Class passengers can also enjoy the Onboard Lounge, which offers passengers a space for socialising and networking complete with fine wines, cocktails, hors d'oeuvres and delicacies prepared by five-star chefs. The Emirates experience begins the moment they step out the door, with complimentary Chauffeur-drive to and from the airport and access to Emirates’ 37 exclusive airport lounges worldwide.

Emirates now serves nine cities across the US with daily flights to Dubai, including Chicago, Boston, Seattle, Los Angeles, Washington DC, Houston, San Francisco, Dallas/ Fort Worth, and three daily services from New York, including a Milan stopover service.

Emirates is the world’s largest operator of the A380, with 54 in the fleet and 86 on order.

EMIRATES A380 DESTINATIONS Discover the expanding global A380 network MIDDlE EAST Destination Jeddah Kuwait

EUROpE

Destination Amsterdam Barcelona Frankfurt London Gatwick London Heathrow Manchester Milan Moscow Munich Paris Rome Zurich

AUSTRAlASIA Destination Auckland Brisbane Melbourne Sydney

Frequency three daily daily Frequency daily daily daily daily five times daily daily daily from 1st December daily twice daily twice daily twice daily daily Frequency three daily daily daily twice daily

ASIA

Destination Bangkok Beijing Hong Kong Mumbai Shanghai Seoul Singapore

AMERICAS

Destination Dallas Ft-Worth Houston Los Angeles New York San Francisco Toronto

AFRICA

Destination Mauritius

Frequency three daily daily 11 times weekly daily daily daily daily Frequency daily daily from 3rd December daily twice daily daily from 1st December three weekly Frequency twice daily

Take a 360-degree virtual tour of the A380 with Google Street View. Visit emirates.com/ourfleet

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news STARS IN THE DESERT

ExpERIENcE lIfE uNDER THE STARS IN THE DESERT with the Arabian

Dreams overnight camp from Arabian Adventures.

A night of stargazing followed by waking up to a breath-taking sunrise over the dunes is complemented by an experience of Bedouin life, which includes food and activities. “The overnight desert experience Arabian Dreams offers an escape from the bustling city life. It is a camping experience that strikes a perfect balance between enjoying the natural outdoors and traditional Bedouin living, and having access to modern comforts with facilities such as showers and washrooms,� said Luc Delcomminette, Vice President, Arabian Adventures.

The experience begins with a four-wheel drive to the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve, followed by a short stop for a falconry demonstration. Guests are then taken for a drive through the magnificent dunes and then stop for a photo opportunity to capture the beauty of the sunset.

There is also the chance to ride into camp on camels where Arabic coffee and dates await.

The dinner options include grilled meats, fresh salads and a selection of sweets and beverages presented in traditional Bedouin style, rounded off with shisha.

There are eight tents in the camp, each one accommodating two people and fitted out with a queen-size bed, linens and towels. Guests can choose to

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book single occupancy tents if desired. There are female and male showers, as well as washrooms within the camp.

There is also the option to request a wake-up call to witness the sunrise, before a hot breakfast of eggs, sausages, cereals, bread and condiments, croissants, juices as well as coffee and tea.

A guide then escorts the guests on a wildlife drive to observe the Arabian Oryx and Gazelles in their natural habitat, spot plants indigenous to the desert and learn about their uses in the daily lives of Bedouins.

Operating daily from October to April, Arabian Dreams can be booked for Dhs895 per person, online via arabian-adventures.com.

bold half page.pdf

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news ARAB IDOL ON ICE

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

ARAB IDOL SEASON THREE IS NOW AVAILABLE for viewing on ice Digital Widescreen, Emirates’ awardwinning inflight entertainment system.

The popular reality show can be enjoyed on board Emirates A380 and 777 aircraft equipped with ice Digital Widescreen. A special team will start updating ice from the day after the live show so that episodes will always available on board as soon as possible, ensuring that fans will not miss out on the progress of their favourite programme.

Arab Idol, watched by Arab audiences all around the world, is Emirates’ latest sponsorship. The show is aired on TV stations MBC1 and MBC MASR every Friday and Saturday.

To watch the latest episodes of Arab Idol, fans should tune into channel 1361 on ice Digital Widescreen.

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City Guide DAR ES SALAAM

Enjoy our guide to Tanzania's largest city

KIVUKONI FISH MARKET Well worth an early start in the morning, a visit to Kivukoni Fish Market is a chance to purchase some incredible produce, but also an event in itself. As the fishermen return, locals flood into the market at sunrise to begin bidding on the catch. If the action of the early auctions is too chaotic, there is still the option to purchase seafood throughout the day. The vendors will happily prepare anything that is bought, ready to be taken home.

Auctions begin around 7am.

TINGATINGA DAR ES SALAAM IS ONE OF EAST AFRICA’S LARGEST AND FASTEST GROWING CITIES. Often overlooked

by travellers who are keen to tackle Africa’s highest peak, Mount Kilimanjaro, Dar es Salaam is worthy of far more attention.

The region’s history has led to numerous cultural influences including German, British and Indian, and the result is a diverse city. Dar es Salaam offers both a vibrant culture and atounding natural beauty, with the hustle and bustle of the city a short journey from beautiful beaches.

It’s little wonder the Sultan of Zanzibar chose the location as his summer residence in the 1860s.

Not a place, but rather a painting style born in Dar es Salaam in the late 1960s. The style is exemplified by the work of Edward Said Tingatinga, whose work became popular with the expatriate community due to the bright, bold colours, often created using bicycle paint. The style is considered naïve but full of humour, and another feature is the number of dots used, often to depict guinea fowl and leopards. Its popularity has seen it spread throughout the region and into Kenya. Not hard to find, the paintings make wonderful souvenirs.

KARIAKOO MARKET Built in 1923 by the Germans, Kariakoo is full of the chaos and fun

you would expect from a frenetic market. This is the place to come and experience shopping, but you will have to barter to secure the best deals on everything from food and drink to local goods and items such as kangas (colourful wraps).

Only take what you intend to spend as thieves do operate in the area.

It can also be an overwhelming experience due to the number of people, so be prepared for a busy environment. Saturday morning is a good time to visit.

THE BEACHES Heading north of the city you have the beaches of the Msasani Peninsula, the city’s wealthiest region, which has plenty of restaurants and hotels to choose from. Alternatively, heading south, you can visit Kigamboni. The further from the city you travel the less crowded and cleaner the beaches become, and many resemble the archetypal tropical beach. There are also the islands of the Dar es Salaam Marine Reserve, which are perfect for lazing on the beach, scuba diving or snorkelling.

Bongoyo Island, which boasts two stunning beaches, is the most popular of the four.

Emirates flies 12 times weekly to Dar es Salaam.

POPULATION: 4,364,541 (as of 2012) LANGUAGE: Swahili and English CURRENCY: Tanzanian Shilling CLIMATE: Expect hot and humid tropical conditions with rainy seasons from April to May and October to November.

HISTORICAL FACT: During the First World War the British army captured German East Africa and renamed it Tanganyika. Dar es Salaam became the centre for commerce and administration for the newly named region.

FAMOUS RESIDENT: Popular author Roald Dahl lived in the city between 1934 and 1939.

WHAT IS DAR ES SALAAM FAMOUS FOR? Its beautiful sandy beaches on the Indian Ocean.

DID YOU KNOW? The name Dar es Salaam is Arabic for 'harbour of peace'.

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• • • • • • • •

Contract Drafting & Review Business Setup , Offshore & Free Zone Companies Corporate & Commercial Legal Services Litigation & Arbitration Debt Collection Banking, Insurance & Maritime Cases Real Estate, Construction & Labor Cases Trademarks, Patents & Copyrights

‫ﺻﻴﺎﻏﺔ ﺍﻟﻌﻘﻮﺩ ﻭﻣﺮﺍﺟﻌﺘﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﺗﺄﺳﻴﺲ ﺍﻟﺸﺮﻛﺎﺕ ﻭﺍﻷﻭﻓﺸﻮﺭ ﻭﺍﳌﻨﺎﻃﻖ ﺍﳊﺮﺓ‬ ‫ﺍﳋﺪﻣﺎﺕ ﺍﻟﻘﺎﻧﻮﻧﻴﺔ ﻟﻸﻓﺮﺍﺩ ﻭﺍﻟﺸﺮﻛﺎﺕ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﺘﻘﺎﺿﻲ ﻭ ﺍﻟﺘﺤﻜﻴﻢ‬ ‫ﲢﺼﻴﻞ ﺍﻟﺪﻳﻮﻥ‬ ‫ﻗﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﺒﻨﻮﻙ ﻭﺍﻟﺘﺄﻣﲔ ﻭﺍﻟﻘﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﺒﺤﺮﻳﺔ‬ ‫ﻗﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﳌﻘﺎﻭﻻﺕ ﻭﺍﻟﻌﻘﺎﺭﺍﺕ ﻭﺍﻟﻘﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﻌﻤﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﻌﻼﻣﺎﺕ ﺍﻟﺘﺠﺎﺭﻳﺔ ﻭﺑﺮﺍﺀﺍﺕ ﺍﻻﺧﺘﺮﺍﻉ ﻭﺣﻘﻮﻕ ﺍﳌﺆﻟﻒ‬

• • • • • • • •

DUBAI EMIRATES TOWERS, 14TH FLOOR, SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD P.O. BOX: 9055, DUBAI, UAE TEL: +971 4 330 4343 | FAX: +971 4 330 3993 contact@emiratesadvocates.com | www.emiratesadvocates.com ABU DHABI Tel: +971 2 6394446 auh@emiratesadvocates.com

RAS AL KHAIMAH Tel: +971 7 2046719 rak@emiratesadvocates.com

DUBAI INTERNET CITY Tel: +971 4 3900820 dic@emiratesadvocates.com

SHARJAH Tel: +971 6 5728666 shj@emiratesadvocates.com

JEBEL ALI Tel: +971 4 8871679 jafz@emiratesadvocates.com

DIFC Tel: +971 4 4019562 difc@emiratesadvocates.com

WITH AFFILIATE OFFICES IN SAUDI ARABIA, QATAR, BAHRAIN, KUWAIT AND OMAN

FOR 24 HOUR LEGAL ASSISTANCE, PLEASE CALL +971 (50) 328 99 99

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Comfort

Wellness in the air To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time on board with Emirates today.

smart traveller

Drink plentY of Water Rehydrate with water or juices frequently.

Drink tea and coffee in moderation.

travel lightlY Carry only the essential items that you will need during your flight.

Before Your JourneY Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition.

Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications?

Get a good night’s rest before the flight.

Eat lightly and sensibly.

Wear glasses Cabin air is drier than normal, therefore swap your contact lenses for glasses.

at the airport Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in.

Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress.

Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

use skin moisturiser Apply a good quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.

keep moving Exercise your lower legs and calf muscles.

This encourages blood flow.

During the flight Chewing and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent.

Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy.

Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently.

Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

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make Yourself comfortaBle Loosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body.

When You arrive Try some light exercise, or read if you can’t sleep after arrival.

I RUGBY SEVENS

EMIRATES AIRLINE DUBA

Title Sponsor

Platinum Sponsors

Media Sponsors

Online Tickets

Tickets available at selected Costa and MMI outlets, dnata retail stores, The Sevens Stadium, Virgin Megastores and other selected retail outlets.

Emirates Airline Dubai Rugby Sevens

dubai7s

#dubai7s

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Visas, QUiCK CONNECT & QUaRaNTiNE iNFORmaTiON Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle free as possible.

CUSTomS DEClArATIon Form

electronic system for travel authorisation (esta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Programme, You must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure.

esta facts:

All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only.

The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending.

A successful ESTA application is valid for two years, however this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.

apply online at www.cbp.Gov/esta nationalities eliGible for the visa waiver*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, latvia, liechtenstein, lithuania, luxemburg, malta, monaco, The netherlands, new Zealand, norway, Portugal, San marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**

* subject to chanGe ** only british citizens qualify under the visa waiver proGramme.

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CUT THE QUEUE AT JFK WITH QUICK CONNECT If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service. US Customs and Border Protection Agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.

FOLLOW THESE STEPS:

1 Have your boarding card or ticket for your connecting flight ready for the ground staff as you exit.

2

3

You’ll be given a Quick Connect card. Continue to the Quick Connect queue in the Arrivals Hall.

After passport clearance, claim your baggage and clear US customs, regardless of your final destination.

4 If your bag is tagged to your final destination, hand it to Emirates staff at the transfer counter for your onward flight.

QUARANTINE IN AUSTRALIA Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card.

You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left on board. Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.

QUARANTINE IN JAPAN Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items.

You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if: • you have recently been to a livestock farm • are bringing livestock products into Japan • your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock The counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer.

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BRIEFING

UAE SMART GATE BE SMART!

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES

USE UAE SMART GATE AT DUBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

UAE

Andorra

Australia

Austria

Bahrain

Belgium

Brunei

Canada

Denmark

Finland

If you hold a machine-readable passport, UAE Emirates ID card or E-Gate card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds.

France

Germany

Greece

Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International airport.

Iceland

Ireland

Italy

Japan

Kuwait

Liechtenstein

Luxembourg

Malaysia

Monaco

Netherlands

New Zealand

Norway

Oman

Portugal

Qatar

San Marino

Saudi Arabia

Singapore

South Korea

Spain

Sweden

Switzerland

*UK

USA

GO THROUGH IMMIGRATION IN SECONDS AND GET YOUR VISIT TO DUBAI OFF TO A FLYING START Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International airport by using UAE Smart Gate.

USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

1

Have your UAE Emirates ID card, E-Gate card or machine-readable passport ready to be scanned

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, you can scan your UAE Emirates ID card.

If you have an E-Gate card place it into the E-Gate slot

2 3

OK!

Go through the open gate, stand in the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When finished, the next set of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim

*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer. That’s it! Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you landed.

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UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY:

Machine-readable passports from the above countries UAE Emirates ID cards E-Gate cards

ROUTE MAP

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ROUTE MAP

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ROUTE MAP

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the FLeet

Our fleet contains 234 aircraft made up of 220 passenger aircraft and 14 cargo aircraft

Boeing 777-300eR

Number of Aircraft: 101 Capacity: 354-442 Range: 14,594km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 64.8m

Boeing 777-300

Number of Aircraft: 12 Capacity: 364 Range: 11,029km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 60.9m

Boeing 777-200LR

Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 266 Range: 17,446km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m

Boeing 777-200

Number of Aircraft: 8 Capacity: 274-346 Range: 9,649km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 60.9m

Boeing 777F

Number of Aircraft: 12 Range: 9,260km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet

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Airbus A380-800

Number of Aircraft: 55 Capacity: 489-517 Range: 15,000km Length: 72.7m Wingspan: 79.8m

Airbus A340-500

Number of Aircraft: 9 Capacity: 258 Range: 16,050km Length: 67.9m Wingspan: 63.4m

Airbus A340-300

Number of Aircraft: 4 Capacity: 267 Range: 13,350km Length: 63.6m Wingspan: 60.3m

Airbus A330-200

Number of Aircraft: 21 Capacity: 237-278 Range: 12,200km Length: 58.8m Wingspan: 60.3m

boeing 747-400erF

Number of Aircraft: 2 Range:9,204km Length: 70.6m Wingspan: 64.4m Aircraft numbers as of November 2014

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last look

Berlin HANNAH GRAVES, 29, MANAGER, AKA BERLIN, PFLUGERSTRASSE, NEUKOLLN I have lived in Berlin for two years.

It’s the greatest city in the world! I have a great quality of life here. I love everything about it. It’s so diverse and interesting – it’s impossible to be bored in Berlin. I work here in Pflugerstrasse, so I am just getting ready to start my day – but not before a coffee. I manage a tattoo studio, which is also an art gallery, and I’m also a body piercer.

This area is really vibrant; you see something that will make you smile every day – it’s quirky. The number of different people from very different walks of life all mixing together makes this area unique. My style is heavily influenced by British sub-cultures – Punks and Mods. I like to mix it up and make it a bit more preppy, though. You will usually see me in black, because it’s easy. When you have a lot of tattoos it’s quite hard to wear a lot of colours or patterns. I always wear skirts or dresses. I hardly ever wear jeans, but never go anywhere without some sort of denim jacket. I like to customise them with patches and badges so they are unique to me.

IMAGE: ZOE NOBLE, ZOENOBLE.COM

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