Open Skies | October 2015

NOW YOU SEE IT. SOON YOU WON’T

BE UNITED FOR WILDLIFE

CONGRATULATIONS AND THANK YOU, EMIRATES.

Jumeirah Group congratulates the Emirates Airline in celebration of its 30th Anniversary.

Editor-in-ChiEf Managing PartnEr & grouP Editor EditoriaL dirECtor grouP Editor SEnior Editor digitaL / Print dESignEr digitaL aniMator Sub Editor EditoriaL aSSiStant

Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Ian Fairservice Gina Johnson gina@motivate.ae Mark Evans marke@motivate.ae Andrew Nagy andrew.nagy@motivate.ae Ralph Mancao ralph@motivate.ae Surajit Dutta surajit@motivate.ae Salil Kumar salil@motivate.ae Londresa Flores londresa@motivate.ae

ContributorS

Christopher Beanland, Andrew Birbeck, Geoff Brokate, Brian Clark Howard, Gemma Correll, Daniel Huffman, Gareth Rees, Rebecca Rees, Sandra Tinari, Rachael Vance. Cover: Noma Bar ChiEf CoMMErCiaL offiCEr Anthony Milne anthony@motivate.ae gEnEraL ManagEr ProduCtion S Sunil Kumar ProduCtion ManagEr R Murali Krishnan

grouP SaLES dirECtor Craig L. W. Wagstaff craig.wagstaff @motivate.ae

grouP SaLES ManagEr Jaya Balakrishnan jaya@motivate.ae

PubLiShEr Martin Balmer martin.balmer @motivate.ae

SEnior SaLES ManagEr Shruti Srivastava shruti.srivastava@ motivate.ae

rEgionaL ManagEr abu dhabi Imane Eddinari Imane@motivate.ae

dEPuty SaLES ManagEr Amar Kamath EditoriaL ConSuLtantS for EMiratES Editor Hannah Burden Hamer arabiC Editor Hatem Omar dEPuty Editor Andy Grant WEbSitE emirates.com InternatIonal MedIa representatIves auStraLia/nEW ZEaLand Okeeffe Media; Tel + 61 894 472 734, okeeffekev@bigpond.com.au bELgiuM and LuXEMbourg M.P.S. Benelux; Tel +322 720 9799, francesco.sutton@mps-adv.com China Publicitas Advertising; Tel +86 10 5879 5885 gErMany IMV Internationale Medien Vermarktung GmbH; Tel +49 8151 550 8959, w.jaeger@imv-media.com hong Kong/MaLaySia/thaiLand Sonney Media Networks; Tel +852 2151 2351, hemant@sonneymedia.com india Media Star; Tel +91 22 4220 2103, ravi@mediastar.co.in JaPan Tandem Inc.; Tel + 81 3 3541 4166, all@tandem-inc.com nEthErLandS giO media; Tel +31 (0)6 22238420, giovanni@giO-media.nl PaKiStan D&S International News Agency; Tel +92 3235345727, dnsnewsagency@gmail.com SWitZErLand, franCE/itaLy & SPain IMM International; Tel +331 40 1300 30, n.devos@imm-international.com turKEy Media Ltd.; Tel +90 212 275 51 52, mediamarketingtr@medialtd.com.tr uK Spafax Inflight Media; Tel +44 207 906 2001, nhopkins@spafax.com uSa Totem Brand Stories; Tel +1 4168475100, nicole.mullin@tc.tc Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

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114,087 copies January – June 2015 Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE

E D I T O R ’ S

L E T T E R

ON THE COVER

ANDREW NAGY

A

t the end of each year we compile a list of what we’d like to feature over the upcoming 12 months. The ideas often range from the sublime to the ridiculous – but there are no bad ideas in a brainstorm and all that (although you do mentally log who came up with the useless ones and remember it come appraisal time).

Often, the best ideas are those driven by reaction, such as this month’s wildlife issue. That’s not because it might appear fashionable to affiliate yourself with a ‘cause’ or charity these days, but because the reality of this problem is utterly astonishing… and the majority of us don’t even know it’s happening.

Whether that lack of knowledge is down to a lack of interest is another matter. It was quite surprising, for example, to discover that images of rhinos and elephants with horns and tusks removed and then left for dead just don’t work. The scenes are simply too upsetting and the reader will flick past the page. The message gets lost.

To help, we enlisted the author and National Geographic writer Brian Clark Howard. His ar ticle on page 76 explains how poaching has now

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become the four th highest illegal trade in the world. While it’s utterly distressing to see how this works, there are chinks of light in Brian’s stor y.

Governments are now burning their ivor y stockpiles to remove it from the market, while in Botswana – after putting zero tolerance policies in place – they’re star ting to see rising elephant and rhino populations.

Much of the change should be attributed to United For Wildlife, the organisation created by The Royal Foundation of The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge and Prince Harr y.

Emirates President Sir Tim Clark has also joined the task force and has now banned all trophy shipments onboard.

It’s a step that sends a powerful message that the world will not be complicit in the extinction of its wildlife.

You can help too, by asking the question on social media: #WhoseSideAreYouOn

BE UNITED FOR WILDLIFE Faced with the task of creating an engaging cover that ignited interest without causing distress, we went straight to the legendary illustrator Noma Bar. His use of negative space combined with the ‘Now You See It. Soon You Won’t’ line, depicts the planet’s dwindling wildlife numbers.

NOW AVAILABLE ON YOUR IPAD

“THE ILLEGAL WILDLIFE TRADE IS UTTERLY ASTONISHING... AND MOST OF US DON’T KNOW IT’S HAPPENING”

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LOOK OUT FOR THIS ICON ON EACH STORY IN OPEN SKIES FOR AN INSIGHT INTO THE WORLD OF EMIRATES

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C O N T E N T S

FRONT

20 24 26 29 36 Experience

Flashback

Entrepreneur

Lunch With

Stay

42 53 Neighbourhood

Local Knowledge

MAIN

66 76 90 The Gallerists

Hunted To Extinction

Shaping The World

BRIEFING

104 110 112 114 116 Emirates News

United For Wildlife

Destination

Comfort

120 122 128 130 UAE Smart Gate

Route Map

The Fleet

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Knowledge

Visas, Quick Connect & Quarantine Information

C O N T R I B U T O R S

OCTOBER Some of the people who helped create this issue of Open Skies CHRISTOPHER BEANLAND

ANDREW BIRBECK

GEOFF BROKATE

BRIAN CLARK HOWARD

Christopher is a Londonbased writer who has just written a book about brutalist buildings called Concrete Concept. This month he wrote about the international architechture that’s currently shaping both the present and the future.

Andrew is an Edinburgh-born author, writer and blogger who contributes regularly to a broad range of international and national titles. This month he spoke with the former diver behind the world’s first gold mountain bike.

Geoff is an Australian photographer based in the UK. A regular in Open Skies, this month he went to Stockholm to discover the neighbourhood of Sodermalm.

Brian Clark Howard is a writer for National Geographic magazine with extensive experience covering wildlife issues. He has co-written several books and is based in Washington, DC.

“Sodermalm is a diverse and colourful island in Stockholm with memorable views of the city. Once a working class neighbourhood it’s now the home of Urban Stockholm and where tradition and modernity blend – I loved it.”

“Africa’s elephants and rhinos are being wiped out by poachers at unprecedented rates, to satisfy a black market in their tusks and horns. But a new wave of leaders are fighting back in a high-stakes battle to save the species.”

“There are some really interesting buildings shooting up around the world at present. I loved writing about the lab in Spain and the floating school, both of which are about helping society.”

As the Shakespearean adage goes, ‘All that glitters is not gold,’ except it seems in Hugh Power’s world. From Snoop Dogg to Lindsay Wagner, he’s built-up a huge clientele of A-listers and celebrities.”

GARETH REES

REBECCA REES

SANDRA TINARI

RACHAEL VANCE

Gareth is a UK-based freelance writer with a repertoire ranging from food to travel and celebrity profiles, including Tony Blair’s spin doctor Alastair Campbell, and football legend Pele. This month he lunched with the DJ and ‘tastemaker’, Gilles Peterson.

Rebecca is a UK-based photographer whose work has appeared in titles including the Financial Times and Brownbook. This month she shot the DJ Gilles Peterson in London’s Primeur.

Sandra is an Australian freelance journalist and photographer, based in Dubai. This month she wrote about not only the legendary cookies at Home Bakery, but also the rather stylish new Akin Barber & Shop.

Rachael is a Berlin-based Australian freelance ar ts, lifestyle and travel writer who has managed contemporary ar t galleries and curated exhibitions. For this issue she hit the ar t fair circuit to discover how it works for exper t and novice alike.

“As a big jazz fan, I have always really loved what Gilles does and his passion for the music.

Perhaps what I loved most, however, was finding that he’s also a true gent.”

“When shooting a portrait, it always makes my job easier if the person isn’t too awkward in front of the camera.

Gilles was not only comfortable, but also willing to give up his time for me to get the shots I wanted.”

“With its urban sensibilities, carefully curated selection of independent brands and sleek, interiors, Akin Barber & Shop had me pining for a grown-up and design inspired salon for women.”

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“This gave me an insight into, not only the excitement of some of the world’s best art fairs, but also how it all works – from the collecting novice to the contemporary art connoisseur.”

A SPECIAL DELIVERY FOR EMIRATES AND YOU.

Boeing is proud to congratulate Emirates on its newest Boeing 777-300ER, the 150th 777 delivered to the Emirates fleet. As the world’s largest operator of 777s, Emirates knows this remarkable airplane combines superior performance and passenger-preferred comfort for an exceptional travel experience. And that’s always worth celebrating.

boeing.com/commercial

2015 - 2016 SEASON Following the theme of poetical music, this season’s Abu Dhabi Classics will run from October 2015 until May 2016.

Featuring some of the world’s most prestigious orchestras including the City of Birmingham Symphony Orchestra, Sinfónica de Galicia, Gustav Mahler Youth Orchestra as well as leading soloists like Martha Argerich, Nelson Freire, Naseer Shamma, Frank Peter Zimmermann and Matthias Goerne. abudhabiclassics.ae

Carefully curated content focused on unique experiences

The Rugby World Cup Final

Lunch With

Stay

Local Knowledge

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36

53

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FRONT

E x p E r i E n c E

OctOber 26 – 31

Dubai Design Week Dubai, uaE

The great thing about the inaugural Dubai Design Week is that everyone can be part of it. When we created Design Days Dubai, which launched in March 2012, we noticed an immediate interest and huge potential for design in this part of the world. It’s been a gradual but natural progression for us to now establish DXBDW. Across six days, there will be pop-up stores, food trucks, activities, installations and design projects established all across the city with a large proportion happening in Dubai’s new Design District, d3.

If you’re looking for must-see elements

then we have the world’s first Global Grad Show, which we’re extremely proud to host. This will showcase innovative design from some of the best universities in the world, such as MIT in Boston and Keio University in Tokyo. The show is a chance for people to discover design projects that will shape our future for years to come from designers who will revolutionise their chosen industries.

In d3 there will be six specially designed pavilions – each representing a different country – created by local architects Loci Architecture + Design and using the most

abundant resource in the Middle East: sand. Each pavilion is part of a project called Abwab and will interpret the theme Games: The Element of Play in Culture.

The best way to do things is to create a bespoke programme by checking our website but, however you attend, I truly feel that it will unite design in the Middle East. This is an event set not only to provide a global meeting point for cuttingedge thinking, branding and production, but also to explore the strong heritage of art and design found in the region. dubaidesignweek.ae

Looking to learn more about Dubai during today’s flight? The ‘i’ button on ice takes you to the information section. Select ‘About Dubai’ for a brief guide to our home city. On ice Digital Widescreen, the Emirates & Dubai TV section offers programmes about the city and Emirates. Channels 1320 to 1332.

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IMAGE: GETTY

AhEAD Of ThIS MOnTh’S InAuGurAL DubAI DESIGn WEEk, ThE hEAD Of DESIGn ArT DubAI GrOup Cyril Zammit ExpLAInS WhY IT’S A pErfECT fIT fOr ThE rEGIOn

GRAND ARCHIVE 1940 SWISS MADE. CHRONOGRAPH MOVEMENT.

E x p E r i E n c E

OctOber 31

The Rugby WoRld cup Final Twickenham, Uk

It’s not the easiest of tasks, writing about an event before it happens, particularly a sporting one that can hold countless unknown variables.

Thankfully history has taught us that is also has some irrevocable truths, too; a bingo card to be marked off as the tournament progresses. Star centres will turn their ankles, second-rowers will be concussed and one winger will break a finger in a freak coffee-pouring accident.

We will also be told of the ‘renewed strength’ of an international rugby minnow while Samoa and Tonga will provide the mainstream press with a seemingly endless

stream of reductive backstories.

It’s likely you’ll see the holders, New Zealand, in the final – when the Aussie hooker-turned-commentator said, “If they play the World Cup for 1,000 years, the All-Blacks will always be favourites to win it,” he wasn’t far wrong.

This year’s tournamet will provide fans with the most scintillating, bone-crushing matches at England and Wales’ biggest venues. Expect close finishes, controversial decisions and feisty encounters, as fouryear-old grudges are settled.

The more interesting subplots bubbling under this year include Sam Burgess’

risky inclusion in England’s squad, less than a year after switching codes from rugby league; Dan Carter playing in what will surely be the last of his four World Cups – cementing his place among the sport’s greats; and Scotland’s 29-year-old back-rower Josh Strauss, who has reignited rugby’s often-controversial eligibility rules by qualifying as a Scot just five days before their opener versus Japan.

Narratives aside, any World Cup Final is a classic for myriad reasons and this one will be no different. Grab some friends and save some breath. You’re going to need it. rugbyworldcup.com

Watch real-time sport on ice TV Live. The Sport 24 channel is airing live matches from the Rugby World Cup throughout October. ice TV Live is now available on more than 70 of our Boeing 777 aircraft, and more aircraft with ice TV Live are coming soon.

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IMAGE: GETTy

AhEAd Of OCTOBER’S fInAL, SpORTS WRITER Sean WilliamS RAThER AMBITIOuSLy ATTEMpTS TO pREdICT ThE LAST fOuR WEEkS Of WORLd Cup RuGBy

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F L A S H B A C K

LIVE FROM NEW YORK SATURDAY NIGHT LIVE LAUNCHES AN UNKNOWN CAST OF COMEDY GOOFBALLS INTO THE, RATHER BEMUSED, HEART OF AMERICA Bill Murray couldn’t really remember how the fight had star ted, who had said what and, indeed, who had even thrown the first punch. However, one thing was cer tain: both he and Chevy Chase had just been dragged apar t.

Murray was foaming with rage while Chase was left to straighten his shir t, go on stage, and deliver the opening monologue on Saturday Night Live.

First screened on October 11, 1975, the real stor y of SNL is perhaps more about the disparate cast of rampaging egos than it is the sketches they performed. Infighting, jealousy and paranoia all a constant on the show that bir thed some of America’s brightest comedic talent.

The original cast, including an unknown John Belushi, Dan Akroyd and Chevy Chase, would achieve fame and wealth through sketches based on cultural America. That success, however, was where the problems star ted.

By the end of season two, Chase had left for a movie career while both Akroyd and Belushi would eventually depar t for big screen careers of their own. This left show creator Lorne Michaels increasingly paranoid, the result of such neurosis being the current cast allegedly signed to contracts so tight that they’re all but owned by the network.

When the actors weren’t upsetting Michaels by leaving for pastures new, they were upsetting each other by grabbing more screen time, earning more money or, as in Chase’s altercation with Murray, simply returning to host the show.

A precursor to programmes such as The Daily Show, SNL has been cancelled, reinstated, derided and worshipped. It has alumni too numerous to mention and has been dealt success and tragedy in almost equal measure. In fact it’s possibly the tumultuous journey it has endured that has made it the most unlikely powerhouse in cultural America.

SHOW TIME HOW BEST TO EXPERIENCE THE ANARCHY Behind the internal politics lies a sketch show that has led to movies such as Wayne’s World and The Blues Brothers. The SNL Exhibition on Fifth Avenue takes you through the six-day process of making the show, from the ideas sessions to dress rehearsal and show, by way of props, sets and unseen images. If you’d rather the real thing, we recommend queuing for standby tickets for the dress rehearsal instead. OK, so it’s not the live broadcast but here the cast is more relaxed, the sketches are more extreme and you’ll see things that never get the chance to air live.

Looking for some great comedy? This month on ice Digital Widescreen we have 50 comedy movies, 23 channels of hit Comedy TV including 15 Box Sets, plus several channels of audio Comedy in our Music & CDs section starting from channel 3800.

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E n t r E p r E n E u r

The house of solid Gold B e v e r ly H i l l s , C a l i f o r n i a

Words: AndreW BirBeck iMAGe: richArd McLAren | 26 |

E N T R E P R E N E U R

F

rom the outset it’s clear that LAborn Hugh Power, founder of The House Of Solid Gold, possesses creativity by the bucketload; which makes his first career choice all the more curious.

“You could say I spent the first few years of my career underwater,” he says. “I studied science at college and then went on to become a professional deep-sea diver working in the commercial sector.”

In his mid-twenties Power realised that the career of a deep-sea diver – one who covered such diverse regions as Alaska, the Gulf Of Mexico and latterly Tahiti – was a finite one. It’s dangerous and highly challenging work after all.

“In the diving game, by the time you hit your mid-twenties you’d better have another career in mind,” he explains.

“That was the point when I decided to enter the world of ar t and design. The choice was much-influenced by my time in Tahiti, actually, and what I discovered there. I went right back to the beginning and became an apprentice. Like all great jewellers, artists and designers, you have to learn at the feet of the masters.”

From there, he went on to spot a gap in the market. The rare and exotic Black Tahitian pearl was, at that time, relatively unknown. Power started to create stunning Tahitian pearl jewellery and in turn raising

awareness about these much-sought-after gems across the US and beyond.

“I decided to return to the US, to Beverly Hills,” he explains “Where better to sell such unique high-end pieces?”

His instincts were proved right and his first major customer was Hollywood legend Lindsay Wagner, who starred in the smash-hit TV series Bionic Woman in the late 1970s. “Lindsay fell in love with my designs,” he says with a smile, “and became what I’d call my first spectacular client. They were special times.”

A creative mind never rests however and, at a time when others may have chosen to sit back and enjoy the fruits of their labour, Power decided to strike out in a new direction.

“I realised there was no specific outlet for solid gold goods apar t from jewellery.” That realisation led to the creation of two online stores, The House Of Solid Gold and Gifts Of Gold.

“The House Of Solid Gold came first, it’s positioned at the highest possible end of the luxury sector,” says Power. “I then established Gifts Of Gold in par tnership with retail guru Arne Freeman and it’s geared more towards the personal market.” In 2016 he plans to open a showroom in Beverly Hills.

The star of the current collection is the world’s only 24K gold mountain bike,

an idea that came to Power when out on a similar machine. “I was having such a great time,” he explains, “and it was such a superb experience I thought let’s make the most exclusive version of this on the planet.” The bike is fully functional and, as Power says, has “the jaw-drop factor causing a sensation wherever it goes.” The reaction is understandable when taking into account that, as well as the 24K gold finish, there are 600 Black Diamonds and 500 Golden Sapphires in the logo alone. When asked what someone is buying into when they purchase from him, Power says, “It’s simple really. I’d say it’s a lifetime of happiness. Who doesn’t want to own a beautiful golden work of ar t?” thehouseofsolidgold.com; giftsofgold.net

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE For a real Beverly Hills bite grab a table at…

Mastro’s Steakhouse at 246 Canon Drive. A real touch of class with irresistible flavours across the menu. My favourite is filet mignon and sweet potato fries.

For some extreme mountain biking near LA head to…

Santa Monica near the ocean on Highway 1 heading north through Malibu. At Kanan Drive head east through the Santa Monica Mountains.

You’ll experience everything: beach, incredible views, rugged terrain, and then even more superb views at the finish – all in less than a half a day.

For a great road trip I’d recommend…

Driving from Venice Beach north to Santa Barbara on the Pacific Coast Highway. Incomparable views with unique pit stops and all done in less than an hour-and-a-half.

The best advice I can give is…

Build on your passion first and foremost. Add discipline and balance as needed... and stay focused.

Dubai and gold go together – the Gold Souk in the neighbourhood of Deira is the reason many people come to Dubai. A convenient way to visit the Gold Souk and more of Dubai’s top attractions, is with City Sightseeing’s hop-on hop-off bus. Learn more at citysightseeing-dubai.com

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L u n c h

w i t h

GILLES PETERSON The DJ, broadcaster and label boss who emerged from the Acid Jazz subculture of the 1980s to become a stalwart of BBC Radio. We spoke to the veteran tastemaker over an early dinner at London’s Primeur WORDS: GaReth ReeS imaGeS: ReBeCCa ReeS

I

t’s 11.30am, and I’ve just received an email from Gilles Peterson’s manager and the co-founder of independent label Brownswood Recordings, Simon Goffe. It explains that Peterson is “really busy and stressed” and asking if we can reschedule our dinner (the restaurant Peterson has chosen,

Primeur, near his home and Brownswood Recordings HQ in North London, is only open for dinner on a Thursday). I explain that, unfortunately, we can’t. Deadlines are looming.

Six hours later, at 5.30pm, the scheduled time for our dinner, the friendly waitress at Primeur receives a telephone call. “Gilles | 29 |

L u n c h

says ‘he’s sorry’, but he’s going to be five minutes late,” she calls from across the empty restaurant. “So polite,” says Primeur’s owner, Jeremie Cometto-Lingenheim.

As promised, Peterson, wearing black trainers, comfortably baggy tan chinos and a rumpled white untucked shirt strolls into Primeur a few minutes later, moseys over to me, hand outstretched, a smile broad enough to wedge a seven inch record through and a look of slight befuddlement on his face.

He shakes my hand and says in his familiar soft voice: “Gilles. We have a thing, I believe?”

Before we get down to our “thing”, every jazz head and rare groove fan’s favourite BBC Radio presenter says hello to Cometto-Lingenheim and hands over three CDs he’s brought as a gift (he hands me the same three albums, produced by Brownswood Recordings, a few moments later). “He smiles with his eyes,” the waitress points out as Peterson poses comfortably for photographs. She’s not wrong. In fact, he doesn’t seem to stop smiling. Despite Goffe’s earlier email I am convinced that Gilles Peterson has never been stressed in his life.

Primeur is housed in Barnes Motors, a former garage not too far from The Emirates Stadium, home of Peterson’s beloved Arsenal FC. The original floor-to-ceiling sliding doors open onto the pavement creating a cosy synergy between the restaurant and the outside world, and as the late summer sun soaks the white-walled interior in light, Cornetto-Lingenheim expertly fills the chalkboard with the night’s “modern European” menu.

“This is the second time I’ve been here this week,” Peterson says as he sits down and proceeds to fire questions at me. “I’m interviewing you,” he says with a chuckle.

Peterson has just turned 51 (he celebrated his bir thday on September 28), but despite a good measure of grey in his full head of hair and the almost silver stubble on his chin,

w i t h

I’m stIll a massIve fan.

I don’t feel lIke I belong at the top table. so If I’m wIth mos def or pharrell or nIle rogers I’m lIke... ‘oh’ he doesn’t look it; he could easily pass for 10 years younger.

Stressed? No. Busy. Definitely.

Most will know Peterson as the authentically gleeful yet indisputably cool host of the weekly radio show on BBC 6 Music billed as: “Joining the musical dots – soul, hip hop, house, Afro, Latin, electronica, jazz and beyond”. It is three hours of whatever he wants to play from his vast collection of vinyl, from jazz visionar y Miles Davis to hip hop ar tist Mos Def, interspersed with regular inter views with music legends; recent inter viewees include jazz-funk pioneer Roy Ayers and former Talking Heads frontman David Byrne. He also has a packed schedule of global club gigs; runs Brownswood Recordings; and curates and hosts two annual instalments of his Worldwide Festival, a summer event in Sète in the south of France and a winter edition in the Swiss alpine resor t of Leysin. Then there’s the annual Worldwide Awards, a celebration of the best music showcased on Peterson’s show, and all manner of other projects besides. He also has a wife and two teenage boys, Oliver (18) and Luc (14).

“I think I’ve got it quite good, really,” says Peterson. “A lot of people say, ‘Oh, you can’t spend that much time with your kids’, but compared to your average nine-to-five dad, I probably spend a lot more time with them. I’m at home a lot.”

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w i t h

I feel the responsIbIlIty for those three hours [on aIr] that I represent all the musIc that needs to be heard That said, last month, on Friday September 11, he boarded a train to Paris at 2.30pm, DJ’d at an Arte TV event from 7pm to 8pm, checked into a hotel and slept until 11.30pm. He then manned the decks at Concorde Atlantique from midnight until 4am on the Saturday morning, hit the hay at 4.30am and got up in time to catch a 12.30pm train back to London, arriving in time for his radio show. He was on air from 3pm to 6pm and then, on the Sunday, spent the day at the On Black Heath festival, where he curates his own Worldwide stage. “I love it, and you learn to get the right balance, I think,” he says.

“I thought I would give up [being a DJ] at 40. I was convinced.

The one thing that’s difficult to let go of is the club DJing, because that is really where I started.” He likens giving up his life as a DJ to a musician giving up playing live. “For me, doing the radio is a reflection of being a club DJ. Part of what makes my show work is that I’m not just a bloke who compiles records at home, I am actually playing it out and it’s all connected to an overall scene. I reflect that in what I do.”

Peterson was born in 1964 to a French mother and a Swiss father in Caen in the Normandy region of France, where his grandmother ran a hotel, but the family relocated to south London when Peterson was still an infant.

His parents and siblings were not vinyl junkies. Instead, he traces his relationship with music to the moment he transferred from a French lycée to an English-language school. “I realised that to fit into the English way, I had to be in some kind of tribe,” he says.

Peterson became a soul boy, “totally obsessed by jazz, funk, American imports and anything with a white label”. When he was 14 his parents went on holiday. “I used to have an electric railway set in the garden shed, and when they came home that was gone and I had twin decks instead,” he says.

He started DJing at school discos, listening to Radio Invicta, a pirate station with the slogan “Soul over London”, and schooling himself in the history of jazz courtesy of Sutton Library. He started his own pirate station, Civic Radio, but soon managed to finagle a show on Radio Invicta by offering them use of his transmitter when theirs was confiscated by the authorities. By the mid-1980s, Peterson, then in his early twenties, had a show on BBC Radio London and was a key figure in the burgeoning Acid Jazz scene, launching his first label, Acid Jazz Records, in 1988. He co-founded Jazz FM in 1990, the year he launched his second label Talkin’ Loud, and then spent eight years on Kiss FM before joining BBC Radio 1 in 1998, where he built his reputation as an arbiter of good musical taste during a 12-year stint, moving to BBC 6 Music in 2012.

“I was really fortunate to grow up at a time where it was all so primitive in the sense that there wasn’t immediate internet access to what was going on and the scene was able to develop,” he says, shortly after we have ordered three sharing plates to start. “Everything took longer but was deeper, in a way, and it created a foundation that we’re now seeing has quite a long legacy in terms of the music and the culture.”

Peterson’s own longevity is primarily a result of his profound love of music, especially soul and jazz; his respect for its roots and his desire to delve ever deeper into global musical cultures and subcultures. This latter trait is exemplified by several collaborations with Cuban cultural initiative Havana Cultura, 2014’s Sonzeira, an exploration of Brazilian musical heritage, and most of the 100 or so releases bearing the GP stamp of approval.

The DJ famously had to move his family out of their threebedroom house on Brownswood Road – just around the corner from where we’re enjoying strands of cuttlefish in a zingy lemon and caper dressing and a bowl of spicy sweet corn – because his cache of vinyl records was multiplying like Gremlins and taking over.

The Peterson family’s former home now houses Brownswood Recordings, as well as that legendary record collection. “I’m probably up to 45,000 now,” says Peterson, before confessing to having just bought a rare 1958 pressing of the “unofficial Brazilian anthem” Mas Que Nada by Jose Prates for the grand sum of US$2,000.

Peterson explains that he became obsessed with hunting down the record when he visited Brazil to record Sonzeira – Brazilian music is his latest passion – and eventually found “a really good, clean copy”. “I’m recording in Rio in November,” he adds. “It will be an updated version of that record. It’s sort of Jose Prates in outer space, Sun Ra meets Jose Prates for the electronic generation. So I had to get it, just because.”

A colossal record collection is not enough to explain Peterson’s success, of course. He has built such a reputation for himself as a musical “tastemaker” that he’s in an extremely rare position of having “totally free reign” on a major radio station with a large global audience.

“I have three hours and I can do what I want with it,” he says.

“I don’t know many people in today’s world or in radio that have that. So I don’t want to ruin it. I feel the responsibility for those three hours that I represent all the music that needs to be heard.”

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It’s not just the music he plays that attracts a loyal following of serious music lovers. It’s the fact that Peterson’s listeners can tell how excited he is to be doing what he’s doing. “If I look back on it, I’ve met so many interesting people,” he says. “When I’m around those people, I’m still a massive fan. I don’t feel like I belong at the top table. So if I’m with Mos Def or Pharrell or Nile Rogers I’m like... ‘Oh’.”

Thinking back to how Peterson first wangled his way onto Radio Invicta, I suggest that he must be a savvy businessman as well as one of the world’s most passionate music fans.

“I don’t know if it was business in terms of a financial game plan, because it never really worked for me on that level,” says Peterson. “I was always on to the next thing. But yes, there is some sort of subliminal business sense in running a record label and organising parties and club nights. I did all of that.”

Somewhere along the way we have ordered two mains: several thick pink cuts of beef rump and two portions of grouse, also served pink to retain its deliciously rich gameyness. As we enjoy the meat – the conversation meanders, and we discuss topics ranging from marathon running (“running for me is absolutely essential. That is what saves me”) to places we simply must visit (“never been to New Orleans, gagging to go”). Peterson loves to ask questions and listens carefully to the answers, always responding with genuine interest, often with great enthusiasm.

The mains done, he excuses himself and wanders off to the bathroom. “I’m going to have to go in a minute. My wife’s playing basketball and I’m supposed to be taking over at home at eight o’clock,” he says when he returns. But there’s time for one more question, so I ask the unavoidable: how has the music industry changed since he first got involved back in the 1980s?

Peterson believes the industry has changed “massively” but for the better. He paints a picture of the “decadence” prevalent during the “mad eighties”, the glory days of the major labels, when he worked in A&R for “rich guys, horrendous, the worst type of human beings”, before asserting that the major change he has witnessed is artists taking control of their own careers.

“Before they just signed a contract and let it all go. Now there’s so little money that you have to be wise to know how to

w i t h

make a living as an artist, so the artists that are succeeding are those who are smart enough to create their own platform, find their own audience, do their own gigs, deal with their fan base and not be affected by some idiot A&R guy who has no idea.

And, in a way, the music has become more original.”

I suggest that this path to success is very similar to the one Peterson himself has travelled.

He seems to agree. “For me, on the radio, I’m not being told what’s good by record labels, I am having to go out and find what’s good for myself,” he says, before going on to praise the BBC and the chance the corporation has given him. “You don’t get well paid at the BBC, but it’s not about the money, it’s about the platform it gives you and the reputation it has and the doors it opens and the people that you meet within it. It’s special.”

He explains that the festivals are not-for-profit (“I make no money”). “For me it’s about doing what I want to do, still being interested in the music, loving the music, loving the lifestyle, running and having a nice family,” he says.

And being able to buy the odd US$2,000 record?

“Exactly, that’s exactly it. To some people that’s a family holiday, but to me… I’m going to have to go.”

The Bill 1 x Sweet corn (US$10), 1 x Cuttlefish (US$11.50), 1 x Sardines (US$11.50), 1 x Beef (US$23), 1 x Grouse (US$25)

Total: US$84 If you’re a fan of jazz check out the Jazz & Blues section in Music & CDs on ice Digital Widescreen for over 30 channels from top artists.

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ME London London, UK

Words: AndreW nAgy ImAges: melIA The luxury traveller is an increasingly demanding animal when it comes to a hotel stay, meaning bespoke service and attention to detail can be the difference between a return visit and an online butchering via Trip Advisor.

ME London benefits from a fantastic location in The Strand, but you’ll that find

staying in can be equally as enjoyable. With 157 rooms (16 suites), they might be a little on the small side, but what they lack in feet and inches they make up for in detail.

Not only can you contact ME staff to arrange a personalised check-in, but the room also comes equipped with great little extras like a mini bar for the

body and soul – basically a souped up hangover kit – an in-house music service and, in some rooms, even PlayStations.

Add to this soundproofed walls, a raft of in-room spa treatments and great views of the city and you’ll see that ME is actually all about you. melia.com

Emirates’ eight daily flights to London will all be served by the highly popular A380s from January 1, 2016, cementing the airline’s status as the largest international A380 operator into the British capital.

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F O R

S H O P P I N G

L O V E R S

CA S T E L L A N A

S TO R E

S TO R E

M A D R I D / D I AG O N A L

DEPARTMENT STORES SPAIN & PORTUGAL

BA R C E LO N A

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The hollywood RoosevelT Los AngeLes, Us

Words: Marina Chetner iMages: the hollyWood roosevelt In the hear t of LA, The Hollywood Roosevelt is a hotel that’s steeped in histor y. An enduring presence in the centre of the city; its red neon-lit sign is a glowing reminder of movie town’s Golden Age. Built in 1927, the hotel opened when the motion picture industr y was at its peak and attracted regular superstars including Clark Gable,

Charlie Chaplin, and Marilyn Monroe, who lived in a poolside cabana while attending modelling and casting calls.

While a recent renovation by New York design firm Yabu Pushelberg refreshed the rooms of the 12-storey tower, the dimly-lit lobby, accessed from the Hollywood Walk Of Fame, looks just as it did back then – a wellpreser ved example of Moorish design.

Those with a par tying streak will enjoy the cabana rooms overlooking the outdoor David Hockney pool and Tropicana Bar. For a quieter stay, opt for a renovated tower suite instead – request a corner location and wake up with a bird’s-eye view of Hollywood Boulevard and, of course, the famous Hollywood sign. thehollywoodroosevelt.com

Emirates flies to Los Angeles daily with the Airbus A380. In March this year, Emirates opened a dedicated Emirates Lounge in the Tom Bradley International Terminal at Los Angeles International Airport. The new lounge offers an array of luxurious facilities and amenities.

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Crillon le Brave Provence, France

Words: robert Chilton images: Crillon le brave The bell in the old church lazily clangs to let you know another hour has slipped past in this beautifully tranquil corner of southern France.

Nowhere is this actually better demonstrated than at breakfast on the terrace at Crillon Le Brave – a mini village of eight beautiful old houses that has been turned into a boutique hotel in Provence, just

40 kilometres nor theast of Avignon.

Homemade pastries and jams, small Kilner jars of scrambled eggs, newspapers and large pots of coffee encourage you to star t the day adopting the Provence philosophy of lentesse: slowness.

There are two restaurants on the proper ty: the rustic Bistrot 40K, which only ser ves food grown within a 40km

Emirates flies to three destinations in France: Nice, Lyon and Paris.

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radius of the hotel, and Restaurant Jérôme Blanchet.

Snooze by the pool, take a stroll around town, or go for a gentle bike ride. But if you decide to join the legions of Lyrcra-clad cyclists tackling the brutal climbs of nearby Mont Ventoux, you might want to have an extra croissant at that lazy breakfast. crillonlebrave.com

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Sรถdermalm, Stockholm Words & Images: geoff Brokate

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Emirates flies non-stop daily to three destinations in Scandinavia – Stockholm, Oslo and Copenhagen. Starting December 1 the flight to Copenhagen will be operated by the Emirates A380.

Södermalm is a southern district in central Stockholm. Considered an island, it’s never theless connected to surrounding areas via bridges and railways. Along with the vintage and retro styles that have been embraced on the district’s streets, there’s a visible celebration of craftsmanship and ar tisan skills. It’s a delight to pass by shop windows and catch a glimpse of

carpets being woven or the smell of freshly made caramels. Its success has been built upon a community spirit that suppor ts and offers oppor tunities to local designers and producers.

This community spirit is also palpable in its outside spaces. Its numerous parks and green spaces are joined by a walkway that circles the island, giving 360-degree access to the water. | 43 |

Södermalm is also known for its cliffs and hills that offer picturesque views of Stockholm’s skyline. The best vista offered is northward, overlooking Gamla Stan, the city’s beautifully preserved old town. Fast becoming one of the world’s coolest neighbourhoods, Södermalm has developed a style and identity that is based upon a contemporary reimagining and reinvention of traditional Swedish culture.

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Grandpa

A Södermalm icon, Grandpa has watched the district grow into a creative and exciting destination. The store initiated the community vibe by encouraging and giving oppor tunities to local designers to sell their wares. Owner Anders Johansson says Grandpa is not retro anymore. It’s less about the ’70s and more about creating a genuine continuity of style. The brand has expanded since opening 12 years ago, opening another two stores in the city. The store philosophy is to provide products that have a function, whether they be dar tboards, men’s grooming kits, garden lanterns or designer clothing. Grandpa takes care to ensure that all its designers follow eco-friendly practices.

Södermannagatan 21, 116 40 Stockholm | +46 8 643 6080 | grandpa.se

SwediSh haSbeenS

If you’re lucky to be in the store when owner Emy Bixt is working, you’ll be in the presence of a true innovator who has taken an old forsaken Swedish object, the clog, and built a small empire from it. Humble and with a welcoming personality, Emy began with a collection of ’70s retro wooden clogs that she bought from small factories that were closing down. She reworked and rebranded them and began selling them online and at local stores such as Grandpa. She opened her own store in 2014 and it is already synonymous with Södermalm. She has now taken the clog further – using traditional techniques and local craftsmen, she has modernised the designs and widened her range.

Nytorgsgatan 36A, 116 40 Stockholm | +46 8 702 0101 | swedishhasbeens.com | 45 |

At Hamad International Airport, Qatar Duty Free is radically changing the concept of travel retail.

Alongside the ever popular core duty free products, there is an array of unique concept stores, comprising a toy emporium, gourmet foods and a gentlemen's store, in addition to a selection of branded boutiques.

A key part of our strategy has always been to offer something for every passenger, and to make duty free shopping a memorable experience.

With over 100 retail and food and beverage stores, spread across 40,000 square metres of space, our friendly staff from over 40 countries are looking forward to welcoming you at Hamad International Airport.

Welcome to Qatar Duty Free. We have been expecting you.

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AtR – And the Revolution

This unassuming concept bike shop is quietly star ting a revolution, albeit a friendly one. Owner Tobias Adolfsson claims that ATR is “the sum of 20 years working with bikes”. What makes this a unique experience is that the workshop is in front of the store. There’s no attempt to hide the building and repair process, in fact just the opposite. Tobias wants people to see and appreciate the culture of bike riding with the view of creating a bike-friendly city. His vision is to create a healthy minded local community with environmentally friendly bike paths. ATR also runs word-of-mouth street par ties and bike races two or three times a year when hundreds of people flow through the streets. Åsögatan 122, 11624 Stockholm | andtherev.com

Antik

Long before Södermalm became a modern day hotspot for hipsters, Antik was a small vintage furniture and antiques store in a neighbourhood. Twenty-four years on and the store still continues to offer unique 1920s and ’30s originals from all around Europe. Owner Tommy Widerstrom drives to Denmark, Germany, Belgium and France filling his trailer with handpicked pieces from contacts that have taken two decades to build up. Claiming he needs to feel and smell the items before he buys them, the store is an homage to Tommy’s unique taste. Born in Södermalm and originally a truck driver, he has quietly built his business while the rest of Stockholm caught up to him and his passion for vintage style.

Bondegatan 44, 116 33 Stockholm | +46 8 642 0000 | antikhandel.nu | 47 |

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Boule and Bersa

Situated in an idyllic spot along the canal on the eastern side of the island, Boule And Bersa is a café and outdoor bar boasting 22 boule cour ts. Bersa means a shaded, covered garden and perfectly describes this little sanctuar y. Now in its 16th year, it is a popular spot for locals to relax along the water and take in the laidback atmosphere. Owner Daniel Karlsrom always intended it to be a dedicated place to play boule, where visitors could hire equipment and gain some coaching tips. If you happen to be there at the right time you will witness the engineering feat of Danvikstull Bridge, a draw bridge that opens up to allow tall boats through the canal.

Tegelviksgatan 65, 116 47 Stockholm | +46 8 556 9176968 | boulebersa.se

Parlans

Step back in time and allow your senses to be transpor ted to the 1930s and ’40s. Sit down for a cup of tea, have a handmade caramel and enjoy the atmosphere. Initially you’ll be overwhelmed by the sweet smell coming from the workshop next door.

Then you catch a glimpse of the impressive decor with wooden veneer panels and antique ar t deco sofa. Lisa Erricson created this concept store with the intention of giving her customers a nostalgic experience. Inspired by the popular Swedish delicacy, the caramel, this store gives you the chance to purchase the freshest sweets in Europe as you watch them come from the vat and cut right in front of your eyes.

Nytorgsgatan 38,11640 Stockholm | +46(0)8-660 7010 | parlanskonfektyr.se | 49 |

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Pelikan

Continuing Stockholm’s appreciation for its traditional past, Pelikan is a standout restaurant offering typical home cookedstyle Swedish meals. Ever yone in Södermalm has tried its authentic, no-fuss atmosphere. Despite the city’s ever y changing food trends, Pelikan has remained a permanent fixture for centuries. It was a beer house frequented by sailors coming off the harbour when it first opened in 1664 in Gamla Stan. It has since moved to a few different locations but has been based at its current address since 1904. Despite being old-fashioned – with ceiling paintings from the ’30s, furniture from the same period and ser vings of traditional Swedish meatballs and elk sausages – Pelikan is a trendy destination.

Blekingegatan 40, 116 62 Stockholm | +46 8 556 09090 | pelikan.se

CalexiCo & the Debaser striP

This Mexican restaurant enjoys a beautiful location along the western side of the island, with an outdoor patio area that allows you to look out over the canal. It’s a par t of the Debaser Strip and has a bar and an American-style eater y attached. Debaser was one of the first venues in Stockholm that gave a home to live local music. As its popularity grew, Debaser paved a way for the growth of Södermalm as an international destination for fashionistas. Now in a new location on the site of an old car park, it is the city’s prime weekend destination. Calexico, the name of a Mexican rock band, is a separate restaurant, determined to show locals what genuine Mexican food tastes like.

Hornstulls Strand 4, 117 39 Stockholm | +46 8 658 6350 | debaser.se/calexicos | 51 |

Whichever way you define relaxation, you’ll find lots of ways to rejuvenate.

Walk along award-winning golf courses, enjoy a fine meal on the terrace with stunning views or simply spend the evening in your beautiful home and have the birds serenade you.

jumeirahgolfestates.com The visuals, images and pictures shown here are for illustration purposes only and not to be construed as representing the actual and final impression of our concept, products, services, or ideas for Jumeirah Golf Estates and is subject to change.

Developer Name: Jumeirah Golf Estates, ID 108, Project Name: Jumeirah Golf Estates, Project Registration Number: 1284, Escrow Account Number: 010496824450 (Mashreq Bank), Project Expected Completion Date: On going, Estimated Service Charge is between 1.50 - 7.51 AED per sqft.

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AkiN BArBer & Shop With a nod to tradition, architectural styling, and a community feel, this is the only place you should take your beard for a tune-up in Dubai words and IMaGEs: sandra TInarI

N

eatly trimmed or wild and bushy, the humble beard has gained an almost cult status of late, elevating men’s grooming and seeing the return of traditional barbershops, such as Dubai’s new Akin Barber & Shop.

Co-founded by entrepreneur Leith Matthews, Akin brings classic barbering to the city, offering haircuts, shaves and beard trims from its rather stylish location at Burj Al Salam, opposite the World Trade Centre.

“Akin Barber & Shop plays on the notion of a classic New York City barbershop, masculine yet playful and delivered with a discerning, design-conscious eye,” says Matthews.

“The brand’s ethos and style appeals to cool, independent urban sensibilities.”

For the bearded Australian, who made his name launching the Make Business Hub, Akin is in response to Dubai’s growth as a city, its thriving entrepreneurial community and residents’

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There’s a groundswell of independenT homegrown concepTs launching and succeeding across The ciTy increasing appreciation for quality, craft and independent style.

“The options for men’s grooming in Dubai have traditionally been the basic ’street level’ barbershops or the up-market spa salons found in hotels or malls, with neither style truly resonating with the growing urban community of the city,” Matthews continues. “Dubai is growing, everchanging and maturing. The residents of the city are savvy global citizens, who understand quality and appreciate innovative and authentic ideas, and there is currently a

groundswell of independent homegrown concepts launching and succeeding across the city.”

The custom-made, contemporar y barbershop, with its exposed woods, raw concrete and bespoke leather, was designed by Dubai architects Anarchitect.

“The architects on this project are extremely talented and their aesthetic is strong, clean and thoughtful, says Matthews.

“The design blends elements of raw industrial with careful craftsmanship. The shop has a great flow and feel, whether

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Serenity The Team Members of LUX* help people to celebrate life with the most simple, fresh and sensory hospitality in the world.

M AU R I T I U S R E U N I O N M A L D I V E S C H I N A U . A . E ( 2 0 1 6 ) | L U X R E S O R T S. C O M

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you’re in for a cut or shave, or simply dropped by for a coffee, chill and a chat.”

The architects’ goal was to create a meeting-place for Akin’s design-conscious community of clients, while drawing inspiration from the barbershop’s master craftsmen, including Dan Mellor.

Dan has honed his craft since childhood. Growing up in Birmingham, England, the approachable and skilled craftsman says barbering is in his blood.

“My parents own barbershops in the UK, so from a ver y young age I was exposed to the trade and before long I was assisting the barbers with simple duties like sweeping the floor and making coffees for their clients,” says Mellor.

“The lifestyle of a professional barber appealed to me and I knew that if I were to hone my craft, I would be able to travel the world and explore different cultures, while at the same time, growing as a barber.”

With its focus on a quality and friendly service, Mellor says that Akin already has a strong following and genuinely filled a gap in men’s grooming in Dubai.

“Akin Barber & Shop does great quality hair cuts and shaves, with a focus on beard culture – one of our most popular ser vices is a beard tune-up. Beard oils and moustache waxes are available too, which a lot of our clients have been looking for a long time.”

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HOME BAKERY There’s a rumour that, here, you can buy the best cookies in the city. You’ll also find Emirati Hind Almulla, who turned her passion into a thriving business

D

ubai is a city that moves in trends. Ever yone’s having coffee at this new cafe in Downtown, or heading for Sunday lunch at that new place in the Marina. There seems no middle ground, you’re either the place to be or you’re out in the cold. There is, however, the odd exception.

While its founder, Hind Almulla, studied ar t and animation at university, baking was a way of tapping into the creativity of using her hands, while combing her passion for fine foods.

“It all star ted from my passion for chocolates and sweets,” she says. “I was raised this way; we were trained to eat good

food and to tr y new things ever since we were kids.

“My Dad would come home from work and before going to sleep we each would receive a piece of Godiva chocolate, so you see we didn’t grow up as normal children, we didn’t have the regular chocolates that other kids were eating.”

Almulla’s journey to café owner came in 2011 when she star ted baking for family and friends at a time when the cupcake craze had taken the world by storm.

“Ever yone was mad about cupcakes. I honestly couldn’t enjoy them, as they were too sweet and sugar y for my taste

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EvEryonE was mad about cupcakEs but I honEstly couldn’t Enjoy thEm, thEy wErE too swEEt and sugary for my tastE buds. onE of my frIEnds suggEstEd I makE my own. so I dId

buds, so one of my friends suggested I star t making my desser ts as a business. One day I star ted with macaroons and biscotti. It was different, not too sweet but just good enough to work. I soon had my first orders and the menu expanded with time. We’ve kept growing ever since,” she explains.

As well as its signature Chewy Melt and the locally inspired Pistachio Rahash cake, the baker y has created a revolving a la car te desser t menu in order to introduce diners to new food experiences. Desser ts on offer include cookies, cronuts, pies and loafs, and the menu also incorporates savour y breakfasts.

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“We don’t specifically ser ve emirati sweets but we do create fusions of them and ser ve them during Ramadan, but some items have made it to our summer and winter menu because of their popularity,” she says.

Almulla says that raising children while running a home business, and now a bustling café baker y, has been tough but the rewards have been immeasurable.

“It wasn’t easy. My kids hated it; they used to wait till 6pm until I was done taking orders and had turned the phone off and cleaned up. But now they’re proud of me because they saw what I went through, working at home to turn it into

a proper business. Now they both want to be chefs when they’re older.”

And the cookies? “They’re cer tainly our best sellers,” smiles Almulla. “They’re not your typical chocolate cookies, they’re a little different and it’s an acquired taste. I personally like the larger Chewy Melts to the mini ones, as you have more to bite into. You can bite the crispy outer layer and then the centre is so moist, soft and just right.

“The best in Dubai? I’m not sure… you should tr y them and let me know.” homebakery.ae

If you like cooking shows check out Lifestyle TV on ice Digital Widescreen for shows like Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations and episodes of top shows from Food Network.

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A collection of stories from around the world

Hunted To Extinction

The Gallerists

Shaping The World

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MAIN

Galle WORDS:

s t s i r Rachael Vance

The y travel in pack s from Middle East and Asia. The and art nov ice alike , pow ering the international

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n the international art world, subtle changes are afoot. Look close enough and you’ll find a new generation of destination art shoppers, who globetrot from one fair to the next to locations throughout Europe, America and most recently, Asia and the Middle East. Champagne-fuelled vernissages, art world glitterati and high-heeled “gallerinas” make for an intoxicating atmosphere; one with aisles upon aisles of highly coveted artwork and captivating ideas executed in a variety of media and immersive installations.

The thrill of an exclusive presentation of high-quality work, from around the world and in one place for just a few days is understandably addictive; and there are a number of art fairs to visit in any given month. A proliferation of satellite fairs catering to emerging artists and galleries have flooded the market,

running in parallel with more established fairs that present big guns of the art world.

Despite the slew of new trends brought about by online sales and cultural globalisation in general, many traditions remain strong, and the art fair is here to stay. Playing an integral role in the international art market at large, the art fair circuit is not only responsible for dictating an artist’s career but also the future of many galleries. The forces at work can be attributed to a group of influential art collectors committed to investing in their passion and as a result, sustaining a global cultural economy.

Apart from giant art brand, Art Basel – which includes two additional locations in Miami Beach and Hong Kong – there is a range of more recent international fairs gaining strong global currency. The full spectrum is covered: from the prohibitive prices

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Europe to America, the w ell-heeled connosieur f eed ing an industry and art fair scene as the y g o in the mind-boggling millions reserved for the rich and famous, to as little as €100 for an unnumbered editioned work.

The key for any collector is to have their finger on the pulse of an ever-changing market. The rapid pace at which ar tists’ careers develop, and galleries open and close, means that timing is everything.

For the novice starting to build an art collection can be daunting, and jumping on the carousel is both exciting and confusing in equal measure. Art fairs offer the possibility for new discoveries of the next big thing, while also providing an education into the history of art. One need only know where to look.

To this end, a growing number of philanthropists with a passion for art are finding their own way and establishing private art museums. Donald and Mera Rubell, founders of The

Rubell Family Collection in Miami, US, and Patrizia Sandretto Re Rebaudengo, founder of the Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo in Turin, Italy, are representative of this new breed and dedicated to championing contemporary art.

Donald and Mera Rubell have collected art together since 1967 and their family collection has grown out of purchasing work that challenges and excites their passions. Establishing their private museum in 1993, The Rubell Family Collection pioneered a new institutional model of private art collections open to the public as small museums. Pieces in their collection include works by Ai Weiwei, Jean-Michel Basquiat and Jeff Koons.

For the Rubells, they often start their art relationships with galleries first. Subsequently, art fairs provide opportunities for them “to continue the face-to-face interaction and see the art

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itself ”. Visiting art fairs is essential for them. “In the age of the internet, we still need these encounters and these platforms; it is important because it doesn’t happen online in the same way.

We specialise in collecting young contemporary artists, for us it’s always important to experience the physicality and aesthetic of the work in person.” The couple view fairs as a “way to engage with galleries across the globe, and a good way for collectors to discover more affordable art by younger artists”. A successful art fair for the Rubell’s constitutes “finding interesting artists and meeting fresh, committed, engaged gallerists”.

Self-confessed as having “art collecting in her DNA”, Sandretto Re Rebaudengo is recognised for her acute ability to pick emerging talent, self-evident in her foundation’s cutting-edge exhibition schedule and collection of works by artists such as Anish Kapoor, Jenny Holzer and Douglas Gordon.

Her motivation for collecting has always been “to promote contemporary art and bring it closer to [her] fellow citizens”. She believes art fairs play an integral role in the ecosystem of the art world. “The best fairs offer a concentration of high-quality works which you cannot find anywhere else.” The most important criterion for the Turinese native “is always the quality of the participating galleries, which is possible only through a very strict selection process”.

Seeing artworks in person is essential for Re Rebaudengo.

“I travel to art fairs because I need the live experience of an artwork in order to make an acquisition. Art fairs are also important places for updates and discoveries, where you can meet young artists who are debuting on an international scene... it’s also an occasion for rediscoveries – for reconsidering the works of artists from previous generations who were forgotten or neglected.” Networking is another reason for travelling to fairs for the collector. “Meeting all the art professionals, artists, gallerists, curators, directors and collectors who gather to talk

and do business is also one of the key aspects of going to fairs. These occasions are not only about the market, as the commercial side is often complemented with a high profile programme of critical debates and curatorial projects.”

The increased intermingling between public and private sectors has seen an embrace of independently curated sections within high-profile international fairs. Alexie Glass-Kantor’s role as curator of Art Basel in Hong Kong’s Encounters section is representative of this shift. These value-added components, according to Glass-Kantor, “transcend the traditional art fair booth” and “sit outside the conventions of the traditional marketplace”, offering “audiences an insight into a breadth of artistic practice that is both energising and inspiring”. Such collaboration offers a dynamic, museum quality element to fairs that broaden collector experiences across the board.

With an increased duality of centres emerging that promote specific local contexts while making them, at once more local, but also more global. Middle tier art fair Artissima in Turin holds an important place in the market. Occurring in the first week of November every year, the fair has strong support of an extensive local arts community and features a range of Italian and international galleries. With the inclusion of sectors such as Present Future, supporting emerging positions, in combination with Back to the Future devoted to artists from the ’70s and ’80s, Artissima presents current art trends while acknowledging contemporary art history. For this reason it’s a fair that offers collectors great opportunities for chance encounters, largely without well-established art brands and the accompanying soaring price points. Now in its 22nd year, the fair’s well deserved edgy reputation is affirmed by Director Sarah Cosulich Canarutto. “Experimentation and innovation are two of the fundamental prerogatives of Artissima,” explains Cosulich Canarutto. “Its main objective is to present the highest quality

The rap id pace at w hich artists’ careers develop, and gallerie s open and close , means that timing is every thing

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artworks through the selection of established and cutting-edge galleries and the involvement of new voices and countries.

Artissima’s identity relies specifically on research, starting with emerging young artists and continuing with the most representative figures of the 1960s, ’70s and ’80s.”

In contrast, standing atop the ar t fair mountain is Ar t Basel, attracting not only the prime collectors but their advisors and private jets, too. Now a multinational fair, the original Ar t Basel – based in Basel, Switzerland – occurs every June. It’s both the fair to buy at and be seen at. Founded in 1970, this year’s edition was the most successful on record with more than 280 of the world’s leading galleries and a recorded 98,000 visitors. Art Basel remains the industry’s focal point and the competition for acceptance to the fair is ferocious. Here, blue chip multilocation galleries with security guards standing watch over Picassos and Warhols are juxtaposed with the new kids on the block. Aside from the main Galleries section where multimillion dollar transactions are brokered, the Statements section offers a small window into the lower end of the market and is an imperative pit stop for any discerning collector.

Presenting new solo projects by emerging ar tists, the sector has proven to act as a reliable precursor for future art trends.

An alternative to the overwhelming magnitude of Ar t Basel can be found in the ar t fair LISTE – also in Basel – that runs in parallel each year. The classic satellite tandem known as the “young art fair” began as an initiative by young gallerists and has since developed into one of the most impor tant fairs dedicated to young art. Having celebrated its 20th anniversary this year, LISTE has an intentionally low number of galleries on display, a subtlety behind its success. The strict selection policy seeks to present high quality, ambitious fresh galleries and ar tists from across the globe and is a must for collectors keen on talentspotting. Many unknown ar tists over the years have made their debut at LISTE, such as Scottish ar tist Jim Lambie and American

painter Elizabeth Peyton, who have since developed acclaimed international careers as a result. Such diversity of lower level satellite fairs alongside market heavyweights offer a nuanced choice for collectors.

Under the direction of Jennifer Flay, FIAC, Paris has also become a premiere fair that operates one week after the iconic fair Frieze London every October. A large drawcard is the FIAC’s connections with the French capital’s major museums that align their significant exhibitions and events with the fair. Since 2003, Flay has worked tirelessly to put FIAC back on the international map after a period of stasis, and today it successfully rivals its UK contender for the attentions of elite collectors and gallerists.

Despite its reputation for producing staggering sales figures, it is also an event that welcomes first-time collectors.

According to Flay, FIAC “operates at a very high level in the market, because our primary role is to provide to our galleries the conditions in which they can sustain regular high level transactions.

However, I think it is also very important to encourage a renewal of the collector population and of course you can’t do that if your price point is at €15,000, or even €30,000. There has to be a way to enter into the market that is less of a financial commitment. I have always made a point of having editors of multiples (editioned

At tracting not only the prime collectors but their ad v isors and private jets, too. The might y Art Basel is now a multi-national fair

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This year The Emirates Skywards Future Artists Competition introduced the Art of Travel. Skywards members voted Dubai, New York, London and Paris as their dream destinations and emerging artists were invited to reimagine the cities. Pieces were shortlisted and the winners, as voted for by members, will be featured on the membership cards of over 13 million Emirates Skywards members.

works) at the fair... I think it is a nice, risk-free way of making a first acquisition for a few hundred euros. I know people who have purchased their first artworks at FIAC, who have since gone on to develop collections. It is always extremely rewarding and exciting for me to see young people buying art”. Such fostering continues to entice young collectors to FIAC. Of utmost concern for Flay is finding the right mix. She equates a successful fair with, “the quality of the galleries and the works on view, and the magic of the encounter between these exhibitors and the people that come from all over the world to see what they are presenting to the public. It’s a magic encounter and you feel the electricity in the air”.

Newcomer Art15 London was held in May this year offering a boutique perspective at the lower end of the scale; a perfect entry level fair for new collectors. Presenting galleries from over 40 countries, the fair distinguishes itself as an event existing on the perimeters of the international circuit. This year the global flavour was augmented by exhibitors from a diverse selection of countries such as Azerbaijan, Bahrain, Israel, Qatar and Romania. Ar t15 also includes the initiative The New 100 Club, which provides a platform for a network of

young international ar t collectors under the age of 40 to come together and inspire a new generation of collectors.

The aim for any successful collector is finding the right balance between purchasing ar t for passion and investment; a pursuit that demands commitment, curiosity and research. For budding collectors, the Rubells offer their advice: “Look for ar t you don’t understand.” They lead by example and “never stop looking, reading, and travelling, as well as by engaging in endless conversations with smar t people”. Sandretto Re Rebaudengo offers her words of wisdom: “The more you see, the more you understand. It’s impor tant to travel a lot, visit exhibitions, galleries, museums and fairs. It’s the essential way to get into the language of contemporary ar t. Also, it’s very helpful to talk to gallerists and, whenever you have the chance, to the ar tists themselves, as this gives you the best access to the work. After all, this is what makes the ar t of our time so interesting – the possibility to talk about it with those who create it. When you star t collecting, the help of good advisers is fundamental, then with time and effor t, you will develop your own taste, and the ability to discover the new for yourself.”

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The illegal wildlife Trade has noT only seen The world’s elephanT and rhino populaTion decimaTed, buT also Thousands of rangers killed, governmenT corrupTion, and The rise of criminal gangs. The Time has come for iT To sTop... and we all need To help words: brian clark howard

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n a routine surveillance mission over Chad’s Zakouma National Park on August 11, a pilot noticed a herd of about 30 elephants squared off in a defensive position against two men and their horses. An anti-poaching team was scrambled, but by the time they got there, two adult females had been killed. One of them had her tusks hacked off. The men were nowhere in sight.

The rangers also found two terrified orphan calves. They rushed the youngest one, likely only two months old, to headquarters, where they tried to hand feed him. But the ordeal proved too much and he died.

Zakouma was home to some 4,000 elephants as recently as 2006, before rampant poaching dropped the number to about 450. What’s happened in the park has been playing out across much of Africa, where elephants and rhinos are being wiped out at unprecedented rates. The wholesale, high-powered slaughter has drawn a growing response from governments and advocates in recent months.

Perhaps an unlikely coalition in the fight to save Africa’s wildlife is the UK’s Prince William and some of the world’s top athletes, who have joined together in a campaign asking #WhoseSideAreYouOn? Only instead of rooting for a favourite sports team, stars such as Andy Murray, David Beckham and Yao Ming are asking fans to choose between endangered wildlife and the networks of international criminals that are pushing them towards extinction.

The social media campaign is particularly aimed at young people, “who have the most ability to encourage widespread change in public opinion”, says Nick Loughran, a spokesperson for United For Wildlife, the nonprofit umbrella group behind the effort.

The stakes couldn’t be higher, says Loughran, because if the world isn’t successful in stemming the recent slaughter of elephants and rhinos in Africa, young people “will become the

first generation not able to experience them in the wild”.

Roughly 30,000 African elephants are killed each year, more than one hundred per day. That rate far exceeds what the species can replace through births. As a result, since 1989, the population of African elephants has fallen by half, to only about 500,000.

The situation is par ticularly dire in Tanzania, where the government announced in June that the country has lost 60 per cent of its elephants in just the past five years, down from 110,000 to fewer than 44,000. Neighbouring Mozambique has lost 48 per cent of its elephants in the same period, while central Africa has lost about 65 per cent of its forest elephants over the past decade and a half.

Although international trade in newly harvested elephant ivory has been banned by treaties since 1989, a thriving black market continues in China, Vietnam, Thailand, the US, and other countries.

The biggest market is the Far East, where an ivory bangle can sell for US$200 and ornately carved tusks can fetch several hundred thousand dollars.

The situation for Africa’s rhinos is “just as desperate”, says Dereck Jouber t, a wildlife filmmaker and conservationist based in Botswana. There are only 4,000 to 5,000 black rhinos and 20,000 white rhinos left on the continent, says Joubert.

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It takes just 48 hours for poached rhino horn to get from the site of the kill to market

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One of the multi-ton animals is killed by poachers every sevenand-a-half hours, for a total of more than a thousand a year. In 2014, 1,215 rhinos were killed in South Africa alone.

The rhinos are being killed not for meat, but so their horns can be hacked off and sold on the black market, primarily to China and Vietnam. There, the horn fetches about US$65,000 per kilogram and is marketed as a traditional cure for various wounds and illnesses. Western scientists say the cures don’t work, since rhino horn is made out of the same material as human fingernails. “It’s smoke and mirrors; it does nothing,” says Joubert.

Feeding demand “One of the biggest drivers of the African poaching crisis over the past few years has been the rapid rise of the middle class in China,” says Simon Hedges, the Elephant Coordinator and Ivory Trade Policy Analyst for the Wildlife Conservation Society.

“With more disposable income, people have been increasingly looking to buy items that were traditionally viewed as status

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symbols. And because the price of ivory and rhino horn has risen, speculators have begun stockpiling the materials, driving prices even higher.”

That demand has been met by increasingly sophisticated networks of criminals operating on the ground in Africa and across international borders. Many of those criminals are the same people who run drugs and guns, says Hedges, and they use the same supply lines and bribe the same customs officials.

Although a poacher can make the equivalent of a few years’ wages with one kill, it’s not always poor villagers who are pulling the triggers.

“Increasingly, we see the involvement of organised gangs and armed militias,” says Hedges, such as Joseph Kony’s notorious Lord’s Resistance Army, which has been terrorising central Africa for years.

In 2013, Khamis Kagasheki, then Tanzania’s minister of natural resources and tourism, warned that wildlife poaching “involves rich people and politicians who have formed a very sophisticated

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Rhinos are often dehorned in a bid to deter poaching.

The horn will grow back in two to three years

World leaders need to Wield the sticks of diplomacy and possibly sanctions to make sure countries are meeting their obligations When it comes to Wildlife trafficking network.” To illustrate the point, he accused four members of Tanzania’s parliament of being involved in the crime.

Illicit wildlife products are the world’s fourth biggest black market commodity, behind drugs, arms, and enslaved people, says Elisabeth McLellan, the head of the World Wildlife Fund’s Wildlife Crime Initiative. Wildlife trafficking is worth US$8 to $10 billion annually, says Senator Jeff Flake (R-AZ), who is working on legislation that would increase US law enforcement presence and provide more information and financial support to foreign game rangers and officials, many of whom are ill-equipped and outgunned. Poachers have killed thousands of rangers in the field in recent years.

The illegal trade routes for wildlife products are constantly shifting, says McLellan, although countries that have recently been particularly porous include Uganda, Kenya, and Tanzania, with Mombasa and Dar es Salaam being particular hotspots.

In response to international pressure, all three countries have recently issued plans on how they intend to root out corruption and increase surveillance at airports and check points. Similar efforts have been taking place in Asian ports, where the majority of illegal wildlife products end up.

Airlines and shipping companies need to become more vigilant [Emirates has banned all trophy shipments] about potential smugglers and law enforcement agencies have to do more to follow the money through its entire chain, where it is often laundered, adds McLellan. “If you don’t address trafficking in a concerted fashion, it’s like closing one hole while another one pops up somewhere else,” she says.

But it’s not all about the supply side, warns Hedges. “We also have to disrupt the demand by reducing consumption of wildlife products,” he says.

a raft of solutions Prince William is among those who are working on both sides of that equation. In Februar y 2014, William and his brother Prince Harr y helped bring together seven of the world’s largest conservation organisations to form the umbrella campaign United For Wildlife, in order to pool resources and share information on the global poaching crisis. William has convened thought leaders at conferences, launched a royal task force, and made a much publicised visit to China to put pressure on the countr y that is responsible for an estimated

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70 per cent of the global demand in illegal wildlife products.

In the past few years, both the European Union and the United Nations have issued nonbinding resolutions against wildlife poaching, calling on nations to step up their efforts to stem the slaughter.

It’s difficult to assess the impact of such high-level declarations, but Hedges says the political attention has been helpful in raising the profile of the issue.

In July 2013, the Obama administration created a cabinet-level task force to deal with the wildlife poaching crisis. Among the results have been new restrictions on the legal trade in wildlife products in the US, which is home to the world’s second biggest market after China. The US has also stepped up enforcement against smugglers, star ting with a 30-month sentence for Philadelphia ar t dealer

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Over a dozen countries have crushed or burned their ivory stockpiles, taking the material out of the market Victor Gordon, who was convicted of selling illegal ivor y in June 2014. There has also been high-profile destructions of several tons of seized ivor y in Denver and Times Square while numerous state bills have also been launched, with bans on the sale of ivor y passing in New York and New Jersey.

Over the past few years, more than a dozen countries have burned or crushed their ivor y stockpiles, in order to take the material out of the market permanently and to send a message to poachers that the world is taking their crimes seriously. Nearly 90 tons of ivor y has since been destroyed, from the US to Europe, Africa, the Philippines, and even in China and Thailand.

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Perhaps most significantly, in May, the Chinese government announced that it intends to phase out its legal ivory market, the largest in the world. The timeline and details surrounding that decision have yet to emerge, but Hedges calls the announcement a “game changer that could tremendously reduce the pressure on Africa’s wildlife”.

In addition to international pressure, conservationists credit the efforts of Chinese celebrity and retired NBA basketball star Yao Ming, who has spoken out against wildlife products. “There are some signs that the average Chinese citizen is getting less interested in buying ivory,” says Hedges, who notes that a cooling Chinese economy may also mean people have less disposable income.

In Hong Kong, several department stores stopped selling ivory products after protests from local schoolchildren, who formed the grassroots group Elephant Angels in September 2013. McLellan and others have been working to convince online markets like Craigslist, eBay, and Ali Baba to prohibit the sale of illegal wildlife products. “But as soon as we turn around we find a lot for sale on social media,” she says. “Changing consumer behaviour is critical but it’s a long-term process.”

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Poaching is not just a wildlife issue, it’s also a national security Problem that can destabilise fragile regions and encourage corruPtion

It’s also critical to keep the pressure on, says Hedges, so all the recent talk translates into real results for endangered animals. World leaders need to wield the sticks of diplomacy and possibly sanctions to make sure countries are meeting their obligations under international treaties when it comes to wildlife trafficking, he notes. At the same time, developed countries need to provide carrots in the form of financing

and technical suppor t to nations that are struggling to get poachers under control.

Poaching is not just a wildlife issue, says Senator Flake. It’s also a national security issue that can destabilise fragile regions, encourage corruption, and get money in the hands of terrorists. That’s exactly what happened in the Central African Republic, where a recent coup was par tially financed with the sale of poached elephant tusks.

“The people losing out the most are often those living side by side with the animals,” says Hedges. To make gains against poachers permanent, local people often need some sustainable way to benefit from the presence of the animals, such as ecotourism or photo safaris.

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and better compensation, says McLellan, who notes that many game wardens go months without receiving a paycheck.

Rangers also need more ammo, new vehicles, and advanced technology like drones and GPS trackers, something United For Wildlife is working on.

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WEST PALM BEACH FORT LAUDERDALE

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Turning The Tide?

Proving that the animals can bounce back, Botswana has seen rising elephant and rhino populations over the past few years. The success has been so marked that game managers have started moving animals into the country from embattled ranges in South Africa and elsewhere where they can no longer be protected.

Botswana’s secret? About five years ago, the country put the army in charge of protecting wildlife. Heavily armed patrols made life too dangerous and difficult for poachers, so they moved to

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less protected areas in other countries.

Ordinary citizens, meanwhile, can help endangered wildlife by refusing to buy any products made from their body parts and by telling others that it’s not OK, say Hedges and McLellan.

To help get the word out, people can share their decision on social media with #WhoseSideAreYouOn. People can also donate to conservation organisations and sign up for ecotourism safaris in Africa that make par t of their mission the protection of wildlife and suppor t of local

communities. Voters can tell their elected officials to get tough on wildlife crime.

“With all the recent momentum, there has never been a better time to get this problem under control,” says McLellan.

“We know what we need to do, and as a global community we need to stick to it.”

“Our children should not live in a world without elephants, tigers, lions and rhinos,” as Prince William said in his statement, “Enough is enough.”

Brian Clark Howard is a writer for National Geographic

uniTed For WildliFe

Global charities working to halt the illegal wildlife trade Created by the Royal Foundation of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge and Prince Harry, United For Wildlife is the combined efforts of the world’s leading wildlife charities.

Conservation International, Fauna And Flora International, IUCN, The Nature Conservancy Wildlife Conservation Society, WWF and ZSL have all joined forces to both raise awareness of the poaching crisis and help bring about its end.

The President of Emirates Airline, Sir Tim Clark, has joined the United For Wildlife taskforce, too, and is focused on stopping the shipment of poached goods. As paperwork is often forged, Emirates has now banned all trophy shipments.

You can join too by taking to social media and asking the question: #WhoseSideAreYouOn Visit our Wildlife TV section for a collection of inspiring and award-winning documentaries covering natural history and wildlife conservation topics.

Channels 1240 to 1250 on ice Digital Widescreen.

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understanding poaching

the inner workings of an illegal trade

killing elephants and rhinos is illegal across africa, except in the case of a small number of permits that are issued by some countries to control populations or to raise funds for conservation.

Most of africa’s remaining big animals are found in national parks and reserves, where they receive some protection from rangers.

those rangers are often ill-equipped and underpaid, however, and they often have vast lands to patrol.

Poachers exploit those limitations by sneaking into protected areas, occasionally by helicopter. they set traps and use highpowered rifles.

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Poachers usually take only the most valuable part of the animal, often hacking off an elephant’s tusk or rhino’s horn while the animal is still alive. The poachers then leave the animal to die and go on to their next victim.

The tusk or horn then enters an underground supply chain, where it travels by foot, truck, boat, or aircraft.

The materials are often hidden in shipping containers, destined for the world’s major ports.

Sometimes, smugglers bury the items for a few weeks or dip them in coffee. This makes them look antique so they can be sold as vintage pieces and not subject to the 1989 international ban. Eventually, the products end up for sale to consumers around the world.

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Sha e h t r o w | 90 |

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ping SIX buIldIngS that defIne the InnovatIon, eclectIcISm and Sheer audacIty of modern-day archItecture WordS: chrIStopher beanland

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1 nlÉ

Makoko Floating School, lagoS, nigeria The architects of the future who really care about the problems humanity faces aren’t simply throwing up skyscrapers at a rate of knots, they’re responding to global crises – whether that’s devising portable shelters for refugees in Asia or working out cheap mass housing solutions in the ghettos of American cities. It’s Africa that faces the biggest challenges of all though and that’s why we should applaud Kunlé Adeyemi of NLÉ Architects for this daring stab at making things a little better for the people of Lagos. The Nigerian architect has dreamt up a floating school for the slum district of Makoko in the country’s former capital and largest city. Makoko floods regularly – a problem for so many coastal African cities – and this could be a viable solution. The floating school looks like a boat but packs a simple yet strong superstructure of wood on top of a floating base, and the ‘school’ room can be switched to anything you want: civic space, clinic, market, shop or shelter. | 92 |

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PHOTOGRAPHY: IwAn BAAn (1,5,6); STePHen GOOdenOuGH (2); MOnTSe ZAMORAnO (3); ROlAnd HAlBe (4)

2 Shigeru Ban

CardBoard Cathedral, ChriStChurCh, new Zealand The Cathedrals the Normans built in Europe through the Middle Ages took a centur y to put up. Japanese architect Shigeru Ban’s Cardboard Cathedral went up in the blink of an eye by comparison. It was a fascinating response to problem many cities around the world have faced: ear thquake destruction. The 2011 Christchurch Ear thquake caused a huge amount of damage and the city’s Cathedral was not spared, hence the need for a new one. It was originally intended as a temporar y solution but it was so loved that they decided to keep it. Despite its name, the structure is built on firmer foundations than you might imagine: cardboard tubes are par t of it, but so is concrete, glass, steel and wood – so it won’t crumple into a big heap if you knock into one of the walls. Shigeru Ban offers innovative solutions like this that could well be the answer in times of international crisis: cheap replacement buildings that are elegant too. | 93 |

3 Héctor Fernández elorza

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Faculty oF cellular and Genetic BioloGy, university oF alcalá – uaH, alcalá de Henares, spain

Scientists working on the cells and genetics that could cure disease and save millions of lives deserve a building befitting their impor tant work. Here at the University of Alcalá in Alcalá de Henares, on the outskir ts of Madrid, they have exactly that.

Héctor Fernández Elorza has taken the best of the styles that were prevalent in the 1960s – the tough concrete, big walls and stately interiors – and combined them with the glass that we use today to denote transparency and light and sustainability.

You can see in and out of the building, yet the big concrete structure that cradles all the glass and the scientists seems strong and long-lasting. It’s the perfect marriage. Inside, there are huge, clean spaces and soothing views of the surrounding countryside.

Many universities have invested heavily in science labs in the last two decades but few have turned out as attractive or pragmatic as this Spanish one – which also proves that Spain is forging forward despite its recent economic troubles. | 95 |

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4 JAkOb + MAcFArLAne

Les TurbuLences, FrAc cenTre, OrLéAns, FrAnce Combative and thoroughly unusual, ‘Les Turbulences’ is par t sculpture from the future and par t considered response to the existing ar t gallery at FRAC (the Fonds régional d’ar t contemporain de la région Centre-Val de Loire) in Orleans, south-west of Paris. Inside is exhibition space, outside it’s aluminium and diodes that light up at night. The form? Something like a robotic donkey – if you squint and you’ve got a vivid imagination. The inspiration for it might come from a slew of ‘icons’ in the 1990s and 2000s that played on a lack of straight lines: buildings like Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim in Bilbao, Peter Cook’s Kunsthaus in Graz and Nigel Coates’ National Centre for Pop Music in Sheffield.

Parisian practice Jakob + MacFarlane is also clearly in thrall to Zaha Hadid and her way of designing madly-shaped buildings with computer programmes, creating a style called ‘parametricism.’ The pair also produced a neat office in Lyon’s old Docks called the Orange Cube, which looks like a hunk of Mimolette cheese that a mouse has bitten the corner out of. | 96 |

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5 Frank Gehry

Louis Vuitton Foundation, Paris, France Frank Gehry made his name designing buildings that look a lot like, as one critic put it: “smashed-in sardine cans.” It worked though: after the Guggenheim Bilbao and the Walt Disney Concer t Hall in Los Angeles, the Canadian architect could build pretty much anything he chose. The results since then have been somewhat mixed. This memorial to the hugely profitable French luxury goods conglomerate LVMH, which includes exhibition galleries, a restaurant and a pavilion, has been controversial. It’s sited in a Paris park where buildings weren’t supposed to be built, though somehow they got permission, and the shape of the thing is confusing – is it just wonky for the sake of being wonky, or is it pushing the envelope of architecture? There’s a stateliness to all that glass and wood yet it’s also disruptive and showy in its arboreal setting – but maybe that’s what its clients, who flog champagne, watches and perfume, really wanted? Either way it’s a new tourist attraction for Paris and a new space for culture.

The company’s late founder Louis Vuitton would probably be amazed if he could see this place. | 97 |

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6 Todd saunders

Fogo Island Inn, Fogo Island, newFoundland, Canada This is the kind of hotel that looks amazing on the pages of a book, and amazing when you glimpse it for the first time in real life too: it’s a showstopper and its location makes it seem even more eccentric. The Fogo Island Inn sits squat on Fogo, an island off another island – Newfoundland, which is off the coast of Canada. This is the end of the Americas, the very final stop before thousands of miles of sea.

Curiously, that next stop over the seas is Iceland and, there, architects Tryggvi Thorsteinsson and Erla Dögg Ingjaldsdóttir of Minarc played a similar hand with their Ion Hotel, another of those arresting set pieces perched on stilts on top of rocks which, like the Fogo Island Inn

by Todd Suanders, is supposed to appeal to both urban design lovers and countryside types who love the wild outdoors. Hotels like this are saying: you can come and drink in the wilderness, but go home at the end of the day to a pristine room with a Nespresso machine, order a club sandwich from room service and hop on to the wifi to Instagram your location to greedy-eyed followers.

For an breath-taking look at Dubai and its architecture, check out the amazing time lapse footage in Flow Motion Dubai on channel 1321 in Emirates & Dubai TV on ice Digital Widescreen.

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Arab Airlines: Where Hospitality is Home Did you know that 50 years ago Arab airlines carried around 2 million passengers? This year, AACO members will be serving 8,200% more passengers than in 1965!

The Arab Air Carriers' Organization (AACO) is the regional association of Arab airlines. It aims at serving and protecting airlines’ common interests and at supporting their quest in providing the best services to the customer by being a catalyst for their cooperation.

50 Years: A Catalyst For Cooperation Turning Gold “ AACO 1965-2015 ” “AACO gives us a common platform to address our most pressing regional issues. Emirates is proud to have helped drive the

Importance of Air Travel Air transport drives economic and social progress, connects people, countries and cultures, provides access to global markets, and generates trade and tourism.

through our region, and our home-base of Dubai has become a global hub.

As the largest airline in the region, we will continue to champion the role that air transport plays in elevating economies and societies.”

Sir Tim Clark, President, Emirates Airline

Serving more than 400 destinations worldwide in 2015 compared to less than 30 destinations in 1965

AACO Members in Numbers 176.3

1,118

30

million

AACO Members

Passengers

Aircraft

million tons

Average age

Cargo

0.75

Destinations

million

Daily Seats 2014

Daily Flights

5.3

7.2 years

404

3.7

thousand

$

34.96 billion*

Annual Revenue

* for 11 member airlines only

“Flying is a dream coming true. Throughout the last 50 years, AACO members have transformed air transport from a conventional transportation mode to an experience of joy and delight. Everyday almost half a million, and growing, guests enjoy the quality of service and value for money that the Arab airlines provide. AACO is proud to be the association of such an elite group of airlines, and views its 50th year as only a springboard for a greater global presence and a greater aspirations.”

Secretary General, AACO

Advertisement

Customer Delight is our Credo

Environment Arab airlines' emissions are less by 20% than the worldwide average.

Not only airlines, also Arab airports are becoming greener. We care about our world as much as we care about you.

AACO Members’ Fleet

Last year only, our members were recognized with more than 100 reputable international and regional awards. AACO gathers the unsurpassed services on ground and in the air. The customers have ranked our member airlines as topnotch businesses.

In 2015: More than 1,100 aircraft more than 1,730%

Today, the age of more than half of AACO 5 years. With highly advanced and new aircraft in service, the 7.2 years; younger than most other regions and the worldwide average

by AACO members

In 1965: Less than 60 aircraft

Contribution of Aviation to the Global and Arab Economy Tourism Jobs supported

Human capital is the primary asset for AACO

Direct jobs created Contribution to total GDP 3.9%

Arab World

3.4%

8 million 0.5 million 58 million 3.5 million 1135 million 70.3 million

World

Arab Hubs and Airports Investments in Arab airports exceed USD 100 billion between 2000-2020

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AACO

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courses, diplomas, and graduate programs in our training centers More than 27,000 participants received learning courses at AACO Regional Training Center since its inception in 1996.

Moreover, 274 participants were enrolled in post-graduate programs with our worldwide partners since 1996.

Check more details on www.aaco.org/training

ACO Objectives

We: 1. Support highest safety and security standards 2. Support green environmental policies 3. We advocate for a healthier regulatory environment 4. Contribute in developing human resources 5. Support joint work between member airlines 6. Enhance the knowledge base and providing networking opportunities for AACO members and partners through conducting forums 7 Airlines Globally

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Essential news and information from Emirates More A380 destinations

United for Wildlife

Route Map

110

122

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BRIEFING

E M I R A T E S

N E W S

EMIRATES A380 NETWORK EXPANDS

The expansion of Emirates A380 services continues apace, with double daily service to Zurich, a new service to Copenhagen and additional frequencies to Australia, Singapore and Frankfurt.

This month, Zurich gets its second daily A380 service with flights EK 85 and EK 86 upgraded to the A380. The first A380 was introduced on the route in January 2014.

On December 1, Copenhagen’s A380 launch will take place, marking almost four years since Emirates first connected the Danish capital with Dubai. As par t of the launch, Emirates will use the world's first A380 in a two-class configuration with seating capacity for 615 passengers.

Copenhagen will also become the first airport in Scandinavia to get a regularly scheduled A380 service.

A second daily A380 ser vice to Frankfur t star ts on Januar y 1, 2016 and will operate as Emirates flights EK

47 and EK 48, currently operated by a Boeing 777-300ER. Emirates currently offers three flights a day to Frankfur t.

From March 1, 2016, EK 404 and EK 405 will be operated by the Emirates A380 marking the sixth daily A380 service to Australia, and the second daily service to Singapore – an up-gauge that will see Melbourne (pictured) served twice daily by the double-decker aircraft. The increase will see Australia become the third largest A380 destination for Emirates globally.

EK 404 will leave Dubai at 9.30am, arriving at Singapore Changi Airpor t at 8.45pm. It then depar ts Singapore at 10.25pm and arrives at Melbourne Tullamarine Airpor t at 8.50am the following day. The return flight EK 405 leaves Melbourne at 7pm, landing at Singapore Changi Airpor t at 11.35pm and departing at 1.20am to arrive at Dubai International Airpor t at 4.50am the same day.

ENHANCED SERVICE TO ALGIERS AND ST PETERSBURG

Emirates has announced an up-gauge on services to both Algiers and St Petersburg.

Star ting this month Emirates will connect even more people and cargo with the Algerian capital on October 1 when it switches from its Airbus A340300 to a larger Boeing 777-300 aircraft.

Reinforcing its commitment to Russia, the Emirates aircraft servicing the St Petersburg route has also been upgraded to a Boeing 777-300ER, increasing capacity and offering an enhanced onboard experience.

Not only will the up-gauge add a capacity increase of 50 per cent, it will also introduce the Emirates First Class Suite. Being the only airline to offer First Class Suites from St Petersburg, Emirates is bringing a level of comfor t and quality previously unavailable from St Petersburg on a commercial airline.

FOUR NEW WEEKLY FLIGHTS TO PHUKET Emirates has announced four new weekly flights between Dubai and Phuket beginning on December 1.

The additional flights will increase services to Phuket to 11 per week and introduce connectivity from most cities in America for the first time as well as improve connections to a number of destinations in Europe and across the Middle East.

Emirates will operate the new weekly flights with a Boeing 777300ER, offering eight seats in First Class, 42 seats in Business Class and 310 Economy Class seats. EK 396 will depar t Dubai International Airpor t at 10.55pm and arrive at Phuket International Airpor t at 8am the following day. The return flight, EK 397 will depar t Phuket at 9.30am and arrives in Dubai the same day at 1.20pm. | 104 |

E m i r a t E s

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the worlD’s longest non-stop flight

Starting February 1, 2016, Emirates will launch the world’s longest non-stop commercial flight, to Panama City.

The 17 hours 35 minutes flight will also be Emirates’ first gateway in Central America, providing convenient connections to Latin America, South America and beyond.

Service to Panama’s capital and largest city by population, will commence with a daily flight operated by a Boeing 777-200LR aircraft in a

three-class layout – eight in First, 42 in Business, and 216 in Economy.

“Panama City will be our first destination gateway in Central America, providing a convenient option for our passengers travelling from or through our global hub in Dubai and onward to destinations throughout Central America, the Caribbean and the nor thern par t of South America,” said His Highness Sheikh Ahmed bin Saeed Al Maktoum, Chairman and Chief Executive of Emirates Airline & Group.

“We’re also pleased to be the only commercial airline to offer a daily, First Class ser vice to travellers on what will be the world’s longest non-stop flight.”

Emirates flight EK 251 will depart Dubai at 8.05am and arrive in Panama City at 4.40pm daily. The return flight EK 252 will leave Panama City at 10.10pm, arriving in Dubai at 10.55pm the next day.

explore more with the americas pass Emirates passengers can now explore beyond the airline's network of American destinations using the Americas Pass.

With the ease of one ticket, travellers flying to any of Emirates’ ten US destinations can connect to more than 90 cities across the US (such as Alaska, left), Canada and Latin America through its five partner airlines: Jet Blue, Alaska Airlines, Virgin America, WestJet Airlines and Porter Airlines.

Fares start from just US$99 per flight sector within America, making The Americas Pass incredibly competitive as well as very convenient. The pass will also come with a generous baggage allowance on all internal flights, adopting Emirates’ two-piece policy for flights in Canada, North or South America as well as no minimum stay requirement.

Emirates customers worldwide can now simply contact their local Emirates office or travel agent, check the destination list, browse a variety of options and then select the best route to match their itineraries.

get to your gate on time

arabian gulf league partnership

Emirates has once again underlined its commitment to sport with the signing of a three-year, Dhs25 million agreement with the Arabian Gulf League.

As par t of the deal, Emirates becomes the Official Par tner and Airline of the UAE’s only professional football league – the Arabian Gulf League – par t of The Pro League Committee, which was established in 2007.

Fans of football in the UAE can follow the Arabian Gulf League as well as the Arabian Gulf Super Cup and the Arabian Gulf Cup competitions that run in conjunction ever y season.

To ensure the development of the spor t in the countr y, the U21 league pays special attention on encouraging home-grown young Emirati talent.

Emirates’ sponsorship por tfolio of top spor ting clubs, tournaments and events worldwide continues to grow, and in the UAE alone, Emirates suppor ts and is actively involved in more than 40 spor ts sponsorships and events ever y year.

Don't miss your flight Please make sure you get to your boarding gate on time.

Boarding starts 45 minutes before your flight and gates close 20 minutes before departure. If you report late we will not be able to accept you for travel.

| 106 |

JG DininG Room JG Dining Room features an a la carte, seasonal and classic tasting menu for dinner, beginning at 7pm, in a sophisticated and refined culinary setting.

JG Kitchen A casually chic cafĂŠ offering a relaxed collection of internationally-influenced dishes, is open daily for lunch and dinner and for brunch on Friday and Saturday.

For further details and reservations Tel: +971 4 343 6118 | Email: info@jean-georges-dubai.com Four Seasons Resort, Jumeirah Beach Road, Dubai www.jean-georges-dubai.com jgdubai

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Be There in Rio Q&A with Emirates Globalistas, Jeremy and Christine Meet Jeremy and Christine, culture vultures who work as part of Emirates cabin crew. They’re two of seven Emirates Globalistas taking you to new experiences around the world as part of the Be There campaign

Did Rio live up to your expectations?

Christine: It was better. Rio is unique and life shoots out at you from every direction.

No matter where you are, you get a different view and perspective of the city in its dynamic, colourful glory. There’s life everywhere, and for me this movement took me away. I loved it.

Jeremy: Before we went to Rio, I imagined it would be a vibrant city illuminated with bright colours, filled with street art, capoeiristas and samba schools. A city whose people are connected to beach culture; a slow-paced, relaxed life. It really did live up to all those expectations. It was so hard to leave the city behind.

Did it change any preconceptions you had of the city?

J: One misconception about Brazilians is their food. I imagined most of it would consist of meat and barbecue-style restaurants. While it’s true, Brazilian’s love to have barbecues, they have such a rich variety of foods (vegetarian friendly) with some amazing selfserve buffet restaurants. I also discovered the Brazilians have a sweet tooth.The variety of desserts and sweets is mind blowing.

Tell us about your favourite moments from the trip C: It’s the way I felt in Rio that sticks out the most in my mind. In particular the last

day at Ipanema Beach at sunset. I recall standing in the sea with the waves crashing (a most clichéd moment), looking around at the views in front of me, the city, feeling more alive than ever, and thinking: 'This is how I want to feel for the rest of my life.'

J: The helicopter trip around the Christ the Redeemer statue was worth every cent and I would do it again and again every time I go to Rio. The view from above the beautiful Sugarloaf Mountain is just breathtaking. It was at sunset and the whole experience will really stay with me.

What can you tell us about Rio’s culture?

C: The people are so friendly, helpful and welcoming. You get a true sense that they will open their door to you in times of happiness and hardship. I loved everything the city: the food, the outdoor culture, the music and dance. You get a real sense of community in Rio. J: At the end of the trip, Christine and I had tried everything from samba to capoeira to playing soccer with the kids of Santa Marta favela.

How much of a difference does it make to share your adventure with someone?

C: It’s a game changer. When you travel with someone, you go down roads you might not have gone on your own. You gain extra confidence because you know someone has your back. Memories are

10 times stronger with someone else because you create more of an emotional connection to the place. Human connection is one of the strongest ties you can have when travelling.

J: Sharing the experience with someone can make your adventure more fun.

Because Christine and I both have different passions, personalities and interests, these differences mean I get to try things I would never have attempted on my own, and vice versa. It's also just a blast to have someone to laugh with and push me out of my comfort zone.

Where are you looking forward to exploring next?

C: Hands down, India. I can't wait to dive in and see it for myself and gain a better understanding of this incredible culture.

J: I'm so excited for Taipei. I lived there for nearly three-and-a-half years and studied Mandarin there. I can't wait to take Christine on a crazy adventure in Asia.

To follow Jeremy and Christine and plan your adventures, go to emirates.com/BeThere or follow #BeingThere

Watch the Be There Travel Series on ice Digital Widescreen. Go to Lifestyle TV or choose channel 1292.

| 108 |

Better Care is now Closer to your Heart American Hospital Clinics - Dubai Media City American Hospital Clinics Dubai Media City The new American Hospital Clinics based in Dubai Media City

Location Map

am Street Abdullah Tary

Dubai Pearl

for adults and children, with Western board certified specialists

Dubai Media City

for patients in the nearby residential areas as well as access to

DMC

the American Hospital Dubai’s full range of specialty services and diagnostics at the main hospital campus.

The American Hospital’s new Dubai Media City Clinics is based

Dubai Media City Business Central Towers

on the ground floor of the Business Central Towers, Sheikh Zayed Road.

Hessa Street

offers close and convenient access to high quality primary care

Al Sofo

DU Gloria Bldg. Hotel

From

Sheikh Zayed Road

From Abu Dhabi

Dubai Internet City

Metro Station

Saturday - Thursday

Primary Care Clinic

9:00 am - 9:00 pm

Pediatrics Clinic

9:00 am - 6:00 pm

Coordinates

25°06'02.3"N

55°10'10.7"E

For appointments, please call +971 4 377 5500 or visit www.ahdubai.com American Hospital Clinics accepts most major health insurance plans, please call (+971) 800 5500

Al Bar

This map is approximate an

MOH GS36487

Clinic Timings

Tecom

The Greens

From Al Khail Road

Emirates Golf Glub

n e w s

ElEphants In DanGER

listen in for more – united for wildlife radio channel, go to 1501 in Radio & podcasts on ice digital widescreen.

| 110 |

INFOGRApHIc: jOHN mARslANd. sOuRce: wwF

This month on ice, tune in to the united for wildlife channel, which talks to conservation experts from organisations including the wwF and the london Zoo about the plight of endangered wildlife and the work being done around the world to eliminate poaching. Also hear from emirates’ president sir Tim clark about what emirates is doing to support this important cause

E m i r a t E s

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D E S T I N A T I O N

BOLOGNA Emirates starts daily flights to Bologna on November 3, so enjoy our guide to this stunning Italian masterpiece Home of rich iconic Italian cuisine, the oldest university in the world and plenty of shopping opportunities, Bologna is a city of surprises.

Bologna at its heart should be at the top of any Italophile’s itinerary, especially foodies. Not only is it the home of Bolognese ragu, it is the proud origin of tortellini, mortadella and tagliatelle among other lesser known, but equally delectable Italian treats.

Trattoria are also resplendent across the city, and opportunities to sit with a coffee or a plate of meats and cheeses are plentiful.

Alternatively, head to Quadrilatero for a magnificent food market set on the medieval cobbled streets and source ingredients for your own Italian creations.

Rich in cuisine, Bologna is also rich in its history, notably boasting the University of Bologna that was founded in 1088. Students still call the city home and provide another interesting dimension, all of which can be explored while eating, shopping and taking in the atmosphere as the sun sets over the stunning skyline.

EAT

STAY

DO

ALL'OSTERIA BOTTEGA When authenticity is a priority, few places can compete with this small eatery. Tucked away, it’s a hunt to find, but it is worth the effort as diners are treated to Bologna’s cuisine as it should be prepared. Local meats and great wine pairings await. +39 051 585111

GRAND HOTEL MAJESTIC GIA BAGLIONI Beautiful, luxurious and boasting a superb staff, the hotel is a standout in Bologna’s luxury hotel scene. Also home to the aforementioned I Carracci Ristorante, it is little wonder the hotel has such a loyal following. +39 051 225445

SCALE TORRE ASINELLI The two 12th century towers are the symbols of Bologna, but only one is open to the public due to the worrying slant of Torre Garisenda. The 97.6 metre high Torre degli Asinelli boasts 498 steps, the perfect way to burn off lunch and gain spectacular views of the city.

I CARRACCI RISTORANTE Sat in the Grand Hotel Majestic Già Baglioni, this stunning restaurant’s opulent setting is surpassed only by the food.

Traditional dishes are prepared with exceptional skill, while the staff ensure the dining experience is one of pure delight. Try the Bolognese tortellini in capon broth. +39 051 225445

ALBERGO PANORAMA Also claiming a great location, only a few blocks from Piazza Maggiore, this charming hotel is bright and boasts plenty of room for the traveller on a budget. Perfect for groups, the family run property is a favourite amongst those who prefer a degree of privacy when they travel. +39 051 221802

DISCOVER THE HISTORY OF ARCHIGINNASIO Built in 1563, Archiginnasio was the first purpose-built centre of the University of Bologna, the oldest in the Western world. Previously, lessons were taken throughout the city. Tours are available and the Teatro Anatomico, where dissections took place, and the impressive library are highlights. +39 051 276811

LA SORBETTERIA CASTIGLIONE Bustle past the students to claim a taste of some of the best gelato in Italy. Refreshing and indulgent there are flavours to suit all tastes. The owners began operating in 1994 and have refined their craft ever since.

Worth the wait in the queue. +39 051 233257

HOTEL TOURING While the clean rooms and quiet, but central, location are all major pluses in the hotel’s favour, it is the rooftop terrace that sets it apart from the crowd.

Sundowners can be enjoyed and if needing a private party it can be booked out exclusively. +39 051 042 0515

HANG OUT IN A PIAZZA Bologna boasts some beautiful piazzas and they are the perfect spot to simply hang out. Piazza di Porta Ravegnana and the 15th century Piazza Maggiore are stunning, while Piazza Santo Stefano often plays host to markets and cultural events.

EMIRATES STAFF TIPS GET READING "The Librerie Coop is the best place to go if you want to shop for a good read."

Emiliana Limosani Commercial Manager, Italy

HEAD TO THE MARKET "The open-air market, La Piazzola, is open every Friday and Saturday, and sells vintage clothes, kitchenware and household items."

Daniele de Rosa Leisure Sales Manager

Operated by a Boeing 777-300ER, EK 93 departs Dubai at 8:45am and arrives at Guglielmo Marconi airport at 12:20pm the same day.

The return flight will depart Bologna at 2:40pm and arrive in Dubai at 11:30pm the same day.

| 113 |

C O M F O R T

WELLNESS IN THE AIR To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips.

Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time on board with Emirates today.

SMART TRAVELLER

DRINK PLENTY OF WATER Rehydrate with water or juices frequently. Drink tea and coffee in moderation.

TRAVEL LIGHTLY

WEAR GLASSES

Carry only the essential items that you will need during your flight.

Cabin air is drier than normal, therefore swap your contact lenses for glasses.

BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition.

Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications?

Get a good night’s rest before the flight.

Eat lightly and sensibly.

AT THE AIRPORT

USE SKIN MOISTURISER Apply a good quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.

KEEP MOVING Exercise your lower legs and calf muscles.

This encourages blood flow.

DURING THE FLIGHT

Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in.

Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress.

Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

Chewing and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent.

Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy.

Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently.

Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

| 114 |

MAKE YOURSELF COMFORTABLE Loosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body.

WHEN YOU ARRIVE Try some light exercise, or read if you can’t sleep after arrival.

Your home in Dubai

• • • • • • • •

Located in the heart of Dubai Opposite Metro Station Walking distance to Burj Khalifa, world’s tallest skyscraper Dubai Airport - 15 min Abu Dhabi Airport - 45 min Walking distance to shopping malls Close to Business Hubs (DIFC and DWTC) Spa and Outdoor Swimming Pool

Sheikh Zayed Road, P.O Box 116957 Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 4 323 0000 | Fax: +971 4 323 0003 www.emiratesgrandhotel.com

V i s a s ,

q u i c k

c o n n e c t

Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle free as possible.

CUSToMS DECLARATIoN FoRM All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

ElEctronic SyStEm for travEl authoriSation (ESta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Programme, You must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure.

ESta factS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending.

A successful ESTA application is valid for two years, however this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport. apply onlinE at www.cbp.gov/ESta nationalitiES EligiblE for thE viSa waivEr*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom** * SubjEct to changE ** only britiSh citizEnS qualify undEr thE viSa waivEr programmE. | 116 |

INTERNATIONALLY ACCREDITED HEALTHCARE ON YOUR DOORSTEP MEDICLINIC MIDDLE EAST OPERATES: • • • • • •

Mediclinic Mediclinic Mediclinic Mediclinic Mediclinic Mediclinic

Welcare Hospital Dubai Mall Meadows Mirdif Beach Road Corniche

• Mediclinic City Hospital • Mediclinic Ibn Battuta • Mediclinic Arabian Ranches • Mediclinic Al Qusais • Mediclinic Al Sufouh • Mediclinic Al Hili

EXPERTISE YOU CAN TRUST. UAE • SOUTH AFRICA • NAMIBIA • SWITZERLAND www.mediclinic.ae

MOH RY82023-31-3-15 Ad approval covers facility in UAE only

&

q u a r a n t i n e

i n f o r m a t i o n

Cut the queue at JFK with quiCK ConneCt If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service. US Customs and Border Protection Agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.

Follow theSe StePS:

1

2

3

4

have your boarding card or ticket for your connecting flight ready for the ground staff as you exit.

You’ll be given a Quick Connect card. Continue to the Quick Connect queue in the Arrivals hall.

After passport clearance, claim your baggage and clear US customs, regardless of your final destination.

If your bag is tagged to your final destination, hand it to emirates staff at the transfer counter for your onward flight.

quarantine in australia Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card.

You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left on board. Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.

quarantine in Japan Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items.

You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if: • you have recently been to a livestock farm • are bringing livestock products into Japan • your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock the counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer. | 118 |

U A E

S M A R T

G A T E

BE SMART! USE UAE SMART GATE AT DUBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES

UAE

Andorra

Australia

Austria

Bahrain

Belgium

Brunei

Canada

Denmark

Finland

France

Germany

Greece

Iceland

Ireland

Italy

Japan

Kuwait

Liechtenstein

Luxembourg

Malaysia

Monaco

Netherlands

New Zealand

Norway

Oman

Portugal

Qatar

San Marino

Saudi Arabia

Singapore

South Korea

Spain

Sweden

Switzerland

*UK

USA

GO THROUGH IMMIGRATION IN SECONDS AND GET YOUR VISIT TO DUBAI OFF TO A FLYING START Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International airport by using UAE Smart Gate.

If you hold a machine-readable passport, UAE Emirates ID card or E-Gate card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds.

Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International airport.

USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

1

Have your UAE Emirates ID card, E-Gate card or machine-readable passport ready to be scanned

2

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, you can scan your UAE Emirates ID card. If you have an E-Gate card place it into the E-Gate slot

OK!

3

Go through the open gate, stand in the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan.

When finished, the next set of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim

*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY:

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer. That’s it! Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you landed. | 120 |

• Machine-readable passports from the above countries • UAE Emirates ID cards • E-Gate cards

YOUR CONCRETE PRODUCT REQUIREMENT OUR PRODUCTION SYSTEM SOLUTION

ONE OF THE MOST ADVANCED TECHNOLOGICALLY EQUIPPED FULLY AUTOMATIC PRODUCTION LINES FOR YOUR COMPLETE RANGE OF CONCRETE PRODUCTS

AIR PURIFYING BLOCKS UV pollutant

(E.G.Nox)

clean air

TIO2

ILLUMINATED TECHNOLOGY

AIR PURIFYING TECHNOLOGY

Fujian Excellence Honcha Environmental Intelligence Equipment Co. Ltd

Head Office: 3-16B, Quanzhou Economic & Technological Development Zone, Quanzhou, Fujian 362005, China Factory: Xuefen, Huaqiao Economic Development Zone, Nan’an Fujian, 362300, China Tel. No: (86-595) 2249 6062 , 2249 6066, 2249 6070 | Fax. No: (86-595) 2249 6061 Web: en.honcha.com | E-mail: marketing@hcm.cn , enquiry@honcha.com

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M A P

NEW ROUTES: Bamako: four-times weekly service starts October 25 Bologna: daily service starts November 3 Panama City: daily service starts February 1, 2016

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M A P

25 YEARS OF EUROPEAN QUALITY CONVERSION AUTOREDO, your premium European partner in the automotive industry since 1990 !

Anywhere in the world, whatever you need, we are committed to offer the best level of service and responsiveness at each stage of your project.

We supply brand new vehicles, original spare parts and accessories from Middle East (Dubai, UAE) or Europe (Antwerp, Belgium)

We are a premium central purchasing group for corporate customers : multinationals, NGOs, mining operators, oil, forest, construction industry, etc.

At your service : our team is fluent in Arabic, English, French, Farsi, Hausa, Hindi, Igbo, Italian, Kabyle-Amajil, Malayalam, Nepali, Portuguese, Russian, Spanish, Swahili, Tagalog, Turkish, Urdu, Yoruba,...

We are the leading company in vehicle's conversion. Possibilities are limitless : ambulance, service pick-up, hearse, mining vehicle, anti-riot vehicle,...

AUTOREDO, PREMIUM EQUIPMENT & AUTOMOTIVE SOLUTION PROVIDER

PREMIUM EQUIPMENT & AUTOMOTIVE SOLUTION PROVIDER

AUTOREDO FZE | +971 4 880 94 50 | Jebel Ali Free Zone, Dubai (UAE) | www.autoredo.ae | emirates@autoredo.com

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• • • • • • • •

Contract Drafting & Review Business Setup , Offshore & Free Zone Companies Corporate & Commercial Legal Services Litigation & Arbitration Debt Collection Banking, Insurance & Maritime Cases Real Estate, Construction & Labor Cases Trademarks, Patents & Copyrights

‫ﺻﻴﺎﻏﺔ ﺍﻟﻌﻘﻮﺩ ﻭﻣﺮﺍﺟﻌﺘﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﺗﺄﺳﻴﺲ ﺍﻟﺸﺮﻛﺎﺕ ﻭﺍﻷﻭﻓﺸﻮﺭ ﻭﺍﳌﻨﺎﻃﻖ ﺍﳊﺮﺓ‬ ‫ﺍﳋﺪﻣﺎﺕ ﺍﻟﻘﺎﻧﻮﻧﻴﺔ ﻟﻸﻓﺮﺍﺩ ﻭﺍﻟﺸﺮﻛﺎﺕ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﺘﻘﺎﺿﻲ ﻭ ﺍﻟﺘﺤﻜﻴﻢ‬ ‫ﲢﺼﻴﻞ ﺍﻟﺪﻳﻮﻥ‬ ‫ﻗﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﺒﻨﻮﻙ ﻭﺍﻟﺘﺄﻣﲔ ﻭﺍﻟﻘﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﺒﺤﺮﻳﺔ‬ ‫ﻗﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﳌﻘﺎﻭﻻﺕ ﻭﺍﻟﻌﻘﺎﺭﺍﺕ ﻭﺍﻟﻘﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﻌﻤﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﻌﻼﻣﺎﺕ ﺍﻟﺘﺠﺎﺭﻳﺔ ﻭﺑﺮﺍﺀﺍﺕ ﺍﻻﺧﺘﺮﺍﻉ ﻭﺣﻘﻮﻕ ﺍﳌﺆﻟﻒ‬

• • • • • • • •

DUBAI EMIRATES TOWERS, 14TH FLOOR, SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD P.O. BOX: 9055, DUBAI, UAE TEL: +971 4 330 4343 | FAX: +971 4 330 3993 contact@emiratesadvocates.com | www.emiratesadvocates.com ABU DHABI Tel: +971 2 6394446 auh@emiratesadvocates.com

RAS AL KHAIMAH Tel: +971 7 2046719 rak@emiratesadvocates.com

DUBAI INTERNET CITY Tel: +971 4 3900820 dic@emiratesadvocates.com

SHARJAH Tel: +971 6 5728666 shj@emiratesadvocates.com

JEBEL ALI Tel: +971 4 8871679 jafz@emiratesadvocates.com

DIFC Tel: +971 4 4019562 difc@emiratesadvocates.com

WITH AFFILIATE OFFICES IN SAUDI ARABIA, QATAR, BAHRAIN, KUWAIT AND OMAN

FOR 24 HOUR LEGAL ASSISTANCE, PLEASE CALL +971 (50) 328 99 99

THE FLEET Our fleet contains 241 aircraft made up of 226 passenger aircraft and 15 cargo aircraft BOEING 777-300ER

Emirates is the world’s largest operator of this aircraft, which joined the fleet in 2005.

Number of Aircraft: 108 Capacity: 354-442 Range: 14,594km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 64.8m

BOEING 777-300

Since 1999, Emirates operates two and three-class versions of the 777-300.

Number of Aircraft: 12 Capacity: 364 Range: 11,029km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 60.9m

BOEING 777-200LR

Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 266 Range: 17,446km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m

BOEING 777-200ER

In 2005, the Boeing 777-200LR set a new world record for distance travelled non-stop when it landed at Heathrow airport, London, after a journey of 21,601km (11,664 nautical miles) from Hong Kong - the long way round. Emirates received its first 777-200LR in August 2007.

Emirates’ first Boeing 777-200ER joined the fleet in 1997.

Number of Aircraft: 6 Capacity: 274 Range: 14,310km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 60.9m

BOEING 777F

Number of Aircraft: 13 Range: 9,260km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet | 128 |

The most environmentally-friendly freighter operated today, with the lowest fuel burn of any comparablysized cargo aircraft. Along with its wide main-deck cargo door which can accommodate oversized consignments, it is also capable of carrying up to 103 tonnes of cargo non-stop on 10-hour sector lengths.

AIRBUS A380-800

Emirates has operated the A380 since 2008, and is the world’s largest operator of this aircraft.

Number of Aircraft: 67 Capacity: 489-517 Range: 15,000km Length: 72.7m Wingspan: 79.8m

AIRBUS A340-500

This ultra-long range passenger airliner was introduced to the Emirates fleet in 2003. This saw the launch of the First Class Suite which has since been rolled out on the Boeing 777 and Airbus A380.

Number of Aircraft: 1 Capacity: 258 Range: 16,050km Length: 67.9m Wingspan: 63.4m

AIRBUS A340-300

Similar in many respects to Emirates A330-200s, the A340-300 is equipped with four engines giving it an enhanced range.

Number of Aircraft: 4 Capacity: 267 Range: 13,350km Length: 63.6m Wingspan: 60.3m

AIRBUS A330-200

First added to the fleet in 1999, this aircraft operates predominately on shorter-haul routes.

Number of Aircraft: 18 Capacity: 237-278 Range: 12,200km Length: 58.8m Wingspan: 60.3m

BOEING 747-400ERF

Number of Aircraft: 2 Range:9,204km Length: 70.6m Wingspan: 64.4m Aircraft numbers through end October 2015 | 129 |

This aircraft is capable of carrying up to 117 tonnes. The deck-side cargo door, with a height of approximately three metres, allows the uplift of oversized shipments that cannot be accommodated in the belly-hold of passenger aircraft. The nose door allows the carriage of long pieces.

K N O W L E D G E

DESTINATION How a city works. This month: Paris I’M

ON

MY

WA Y...

WHAT NO FISH AGAIN? THIS IS IN-SEINE!

0

199

09

20

GRE

AT, SA

LMO

N’S

HER

E

WHERE ARE ALL THE TAXIS?

01

HOW FAR DOES THE METRO TRAVEL?

04

Trains on the Paris Metro journey over 600,000 miles each day, enough to circumnavigate the globe ten times over.

Ever wondered why Paris’ streets always seem to be damp, even when it’s not been raining? It’s because of the 12,000 bouches de lavage – low-pressure gutters that spill water collected from the Seine on to the streets to keep them clean.

Source: Maison de la RATP

02

RULES OF THE ROAD There’s only one stop sign in the whole of Paris, located in the 16th arrondissement. Traffic typically gives way to those coming from the right.

Source: Le Pavillon de l’eau

05

IT’S SURPRISINGLY GREEN Paris is Europe’s most wooded capital city, with 478,000 trees. Each one is monitored, so the city’s gardeners know precisely which trees need a trim and when.

7.6 kilometres of canals flow through Paris.

There are also 400 parks and gardens.

Source: Mayor of Paris office

THE EIFFEL TOWER MOVES The height of the Eiffel Tower changes by as much as 5.9 inches depending on the temperature. It can also sway 7 inches in strong winds.

Source: Prefecture of police of Paris

03

KEEPING THE STREETS CLEAN

Source: Eiffel Tower tour

06

WHY ARE THERE SO FEW TAXIS? Because taxi drivers have to pay almost €200,000 for their license.

Source: CNN

| 130 |

HOW THEY CLEANED THE SEINE 1900 – Salmon disappears from the polluted Seine 1920 – Most other species follow 1950 – It’s estimated between 300 and 500 tons of fish die each year in the river 1995 – Only five hardy species of fish call the Seine home, including carp and eel 1996 – Paris begins cleaning up the Seine, even building a water purification plant 2009 – Salmon return to the Seine, with over 1,000 swimming in its waters 2015 – Around 32 species of fish now live in the river after the clean-up Source: National Federation Of Fishing