SAVING GORILLAS IN UGANDA
New Era of the High End The All New Hyundai Azera The all new Azera earned 2017 Red Dot Design Award recognition for high design quality. Representing Hyundai as the company’s flagship model, it proudly boasts a feeling of majestic and serenity through simplicity.
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Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Ian Fairservice Gina Johnson gina@motivate.ae Mark Evans marke@motivate.ae Andrew Nagy andrew.nagy@motivate.ae Roui Francisco rom@motivate.ae Surajit Dutta surajit@motivate.ae Donnie Miguel donnie.miguel@motivate.ae Salil Kumar salil@motivate.ae Londresa Flores londresa@motivate.ae
Editor-in-ChiEf Managing PartnEr & grouP Editor EditoriaL dirECtor grouP Editor SEnior Editor digitaL / Print dESignEr digitaL aniMator VidEo Editor Sub Editor EditoriaL aSSiStant
ContributorS
Emma Coiler, Julia Eskins, Graphics Manufacture, Joe Mortimer, Matt Mostyn, Aya Okawa Cover: Sarah Freeman
gEnEraL ManagEr ProduCtion S Sunil Kumar ProduCtion ManagEr R Murali Krishnan
ChiEf CoMMErCiaL offiCEr Anthony Milne anthony@motivate.ae
grouP SaLES ManagEr Michael Underdown michael@motivate.ae
SEnior SaLES ManagEr Shruti Srivastava shruti.srivastava@motivate.ae
SEnior SaLES ManagEr Michelle Quinn michelle.quinn@motivate.ae
EditoriaL ConSuLtantS for EMiratES Editor Manna Talib arabiC Editor Hatem Omar dEPuty Editor Catherine Freeman WEbSitE emirates.com
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134,109 copies July – December 2016 Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE
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E d i t o r ’ s
l E t t E r
ANDREW NAGY
on THE CovEr
Senior ediTor
W
orking on this type of magazine, it’s easy to get quite jealous of the writers and photographers we send out on assignment. There they go, gallivanting off on adventures around the globe, while I’m stuck behind a desk dealing with an erratic photocopier and a, quite frankly, unsatisfying coffee machine. This month’s cover story is no exception, as we sent a photographer to Uganda to witness a primate habituation programme in action.
One place that always had money at its core was the town of Bodie in California. Chances are you haven’t heard of it, but then it has been officially designated a ghost town since 1962. Bodie was a gold rush town that flourished all too briefly in the 1860s. As soon as the gold was mined the prospectors upped sticks and left in search of the next boom. As you’ll see from our pictorial (page 38), it was left untouched and gathering dust, an enthralling window into the past and now an official heritage site.
sEvEral HabiTuaTion programmEs arE THriving in uganda, and THE loCal CommuniTy is bEnfiTTing from iT To me, the idea of habituation, and how it helps ensure an animal’s survival in the wild, was a little difficult to comprehend at first. Surely the more comfortable they are with us hanging around, the easier target they become to the armies of poachers out there, right? While that might be correct on one level, you’ll read in the feature (page 46) that the benefits far outweigh the potential problems – as several successful habituation programmes in Uganda are proving – the kicker being that, thanks to the tourism it brings, the local economy also gets a much-needed cash injection.
Founded by Charles Dickens, The Ar ts Club in London has heritage coming out the brickwork. But as our writer found this month, it isn’t simply living on its history. With new clubs planned for Dubai, LA, and Canary Wharf – and a current regulars list that reads like the best par ty you ever went to – it’s thriving in a crowded market. Just another place I’m destined to visit vicariously through our writers, I suppose. At least I have you for company.
saving gorillas in uganda This month, Sarah Freeman visited habituation programmes in Uganda that are, slowly but surely, boosting numbers in the wild, as well as supporting the local communities around them.
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May 27
THE EMIRATES FA CUP FINAL London, UK
There is a perennial discussion about whether the Emirates FA Cup is still relevant and whether the fans still care about it like they used to. It’s fair to say the world’s oldest club football cup competition has been through the mill over the past decade or so. From being the jewel in the English Football Association’s crown, it has occasionally frozen in the glare of a slick, mega-moneyed Champions League, not to mention clubs making it a priority to reach – and remain in – the Premier League. Now, more than ever, money talks. Couple that with the fact
that you only have to reach the semi-finals to find your way on to Wembley’s hallowed turf and you can see the problem. But try telling that to the fans of Arsenal, Tottenham, Chelsea and Manchester City (the four remaining sides at time of writing). The reality is that, while times change and priorities shift, for clubs, players and fans, the FA Cup remains as special today as it was when the tournament began 136 years ago. There’s still a buzz on cup day, regardless of who you support. The cup is built on giant killing, on dreams, on the fact that
on any day, any team can beat another, regardless of league position. Just look at Lincoln City. This season they became the first non-league side ever to reach the quarter-finals, with Premier League giants Arsenal eventually knocking them out. While it is assured that two sides with big reputations will contest this month’s final – the four sides in the semi-finals have won the trophy 32 times between them – it will still be a spectacle the world over. And come 3pm on May 27, you’ll see exactly what it means to be in that final. thefa.com
Download the Emirates app – available for iPhone, iPad and Android. your personal journey planner makes it easy to view and arrange your trips when you’re on the go. Designed to complement the iPhone app, there’s also an Emirates app for the Apple Watch.
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iMAGE: GEtty
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May 27-June 26*
Ramadan worldwide
While fasting during Ramadan is considered one of the five pillars of Islam, the holy month is not just about denying yourself food and water. It is about refocusing your attention on your faith, on self-discipline and on charity. Marked by increased time spent in prayer and with family and friends, as well as spending time thinking about those less fortunate, it is a 30-day spiritual celebration rejoiced around the world. In Dubai, the city slows down as people become accustomed to fasting from sunrise to sunset. Not everyone does it but respect is given to those who are. It is a month of giving, so you will see
food and clothing collections, among a host of charitable events – with Zayed Humanitarian Day on the 19th day of Ramadan a highlight. As Dubai is home to numerous different cultures and nationalities, Ramadan is a great opportunity to promote understanding of Islam. If you are visiting this month, head to the Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Centre for Cultural Understanding in the Al Fahidi District for its traditional evening iftar meal to break the fast, where you can learn more about Islamic tradition in the UAE. There are also tents that spring up in the city, where you can enjoy an early morning suhoor (eaten just before the start of the
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fast) or an evening iftar. Once the sun goes down, prepare for mass celebrations with almost every restaurant offering an eyepopping selection of dishes in a nightly feast. You can also head to the Ramadan night market in Dubai World Trade Centre. Usually running during the last 10 days of Ramadan, the pop-up bazaar is great to wander around – not to mention offering its own iftar options. As the month comes to a close, plan your festivities for Eid al Fitr, the three-day holiday marking the end of Ramadan and the cause of a nationwide celebration. *Official date to be confirmed by moonsighting committee
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the holy month of ramadan begins at the end of may. it’s a celebration across the globe and a time for charity, friends, family and faith
S t a y :
r o o m
Gran Meliá nacional rio de Janeiro Rio De JaneiRo, BRazil
Words: andreW nagy Image: andré nazareth When the Hotel Nacional opened in 1972, it was the epitome of glamorous Rio. Designed by Oscar Niemeyer, it was a key example of modern architecture while James Brown and BB King were regulars. But after a steady decline, it closed its doors in 1995, becoming a blank canvas for graffiti artists – including a bizarre occasion in 2013 when the pop
star Justin Bieber was arrested for spray painting inside the hotel. However, after an extensive restoration, it has now reopened as Gran Meliá Nacional Rio de Janeiro, the group’s first Brazilian property. Its 34 floors overlook Sao Conrado beach while the 413 rooms feature stunning mountain views, two restaurants, three bars and the only Clarins spa in South America.
Emirates flies daily to Rio de Janeiro with the Boeing 777-300ER.
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Home to a number of art works, you’ll find Héctor Bernabó’s Painel de Carybé in the lobby, a VIP floor and rooftop designed by Brazilian architectural star Deborah Aguiar and the famous Burle Max gardens, featuring 46 species of plants native to Brazil. It’s clear the building itself is no longer the only star of the show. melia.com
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S t a y : C O N T E M P O R A R Y
The Silo Cape Town, SouTh afriCa
Image: THe SILO It’s a given that when you check out of The Silo hotel, you will be the cleanest you have ever been. Because who could resist the huge bathtub in the sky, strategically placed in front of a riveting mountain view? Not just any mountain, mind, but Table Mountain, the most famous landmark in not just the Mother City but the whole of South Africa.
Magnificent pillowed window panels protrude outwards – a treatment that by day casts prisms of light that flicker like protozoa under a microscope and, by night, transforms the building into a phosphorescent lighthouse on the Waterfront. The Silo opened in March and is the latest addition to upscale hotel group The Royal Portfolio, with a design full of eclectic
pieces and splashes of colour that make the intimate hotel an intriguing blend of luxury meets industrial. Not only is it set to attract tourists from far and wide, it is also a trendsetting spot for locals to view the city from a refreshing new angle. But more than anything, you really should come for the opportunity to experience the bath. theroyalportfolio.com/thesilo
Emirates operates three daily flights between Cape Town and Dubai with its popular Boeing 777 aircraft. Last year Emirates opened its 39th global lounge, a new two-level premium lounge, in Cape Town International Airport, conveniently located in the international departures corridor.
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S t a y : c l a S S i c
PARK GSTAAD GSTAAD, SWITZERLAND
Words: Joe MortiMer iMage: park gstaad When actress Julie Andrews moved to Gstaad in the 1960s, she insisted on decorating its chalets with 1,000 lights. Today chalet owners keep up the tradition, creating a twinkling masterpiece framed by the Swiss Alps, a view best observed from the terraces of the venerable Park Gstaad. Inside, modern, elegant rooms are panelled in warm pine, grey felt and black
slate – a nod to the traditions of the region – with slanting ceilings, walls resembling log piles and artwork carved from timber. The chalet chic continues in the bar, where warming fireside cocktails fuel aprèsski conversation among the Louis Vuittonclad guests, who snuggle under furs. An original 1910 elevator carries diners to Avenue Montagne, where chef Axel
Emirates serves two destinations in Switzerland – Zurich and Geneva.
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Rüdlin celebrates all things Swiss; his fondue ravioli with truffle shavings and Gruyere epitomises Alpine decadence. The overall effect is the result of a 2010 renovation by owner Dona Bertarelli, whose vision for modernisation was tempered with a keen desire to preserve the sense of place. parkgstaad.ch
N e i g h b o u r h o o d
RENON, Bali, iNDONESia
M
ost people visiting the paradise island of Bali shimmy straight through its capital, Denpasar, making a beeline for the palm-tree fringed tourist ghettos of Sanur, Seminyak and Kuta that spill out from Greater Denpasar. To bypass this culturally rich capital, where simple Balinese traditions coexist with the city’s modernising moves, is a rookie traveller error. Originally a centre of the Badung Kingdom, Denpasar may be a later bloomer (it wasn’t made capital until 1958) but its surprising wealth of monuments, temples and museums ensure tourists aren’t short-changed on the heritage front. One of the city’s most iconic landmarks, and a good place to fast track through roughly 5,000 years of the island’s history, is the enormous Bajra Sandhi monument, which commemorates the island’s turbulent struggle against the Dutch, who colonised the island in 1906. Despite the rather dark backdrop, its fountains, fragrant trees and ornate terraces make for a pleasant afternoon stroll, in the heart of Denpasar’s affluent business district: Renon. As well as being the city’s administrative centre – home to the Governor’s House and Parliament Building – Renon is Denpasar’s greenest. Local mansions flank immaculate lawns, and streets lined with trees offer a village-like atmosphere, versus the traffic-chocked urban metropolis that most people associate with the capital. Bajra Sandhi’s panoramic lookout point reveals just how much open space this leafy neighbhourhood monopolises. Hindu temples peek out of lush shrubbery, food vendors take respite under shady trees, banks and civic buildings are invaded by bougainvillea and local restaurants remain hidden gems, thanks to their tropical camouflage. It’s also emerging as a hotbed of independent boutiques, trendy coffee shops and niche stores, thanks to young and enterprising locals who are cashing in on Renon’s untapped shopping potential. Not yet hipster enough to be the next Sanur or Seminyak, Renon is just the right side of cool to convince you a stopover in Denpasar is worth delaying that beachside cocktail for want to sit in the sun and relax. Pâquis is good for that, too. | 24 |
N e i g h b o u r h o o d
Words ANd IMAGEs: sArAH FrEEMAN
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N e i g h b o u r h o o d
In thE aREa ( F our -minut e s coot e r r i de )
Eat + RElax
GULA BALI THE JOGLO If it weren’t for the trapezium roof peeping through the tropical camouflage, you could easily walk past this local dining haunt, nestled at the end of a sleepy residential street just off Merdeka Road. Styled like a traditional Javanese house, or joglo, the main dining hall is packed to the rafters (or in this case open beam ceilings) with local patrons at midday, who typically spill out into the restaurant’s shaded courtyard. Whilst Gula Bali’s aesthetics are wholly Javanese, the restaurant takes its culinary cues from Balinese street food. Humble plates of traditional dishes like jaje Bali, rujak serut, and tipat cantok are ladled out of giant pots on to lime green plastic crockery, starting at less than US$1.Try the mashed cassavas served with palm sugar-infused coconut milk (singkong salju), washed down with one of their ice jazzed-style specials like lychee joglo. And leave room for their signature rujak campur dessert – a medley of fruits drenched in palm sugar syrup. Jl. Merdeka II No.9, Renon, Denpasar Timur
LAPAnGAn PuPutAn renon
A hive of activity come rain or shine, this popular park is where locals come to skateboard, fly kites, cycle, devour street food from one of the local kitchen carts and practise yoga. Renon, DenpAsAR selAtAn, pAnjeR
Emirates flies daily to Bali with the Boeing 777-300ER. Starting July 2, Emirates will introduce a second daily service to the island, offering travellers more convenience and connectivity options.
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N e i g h b o u r h o o d
In The area
Snack + Shop
CONFITURE DE BALI The creation of a French expat and local Balinese man hailing from Ubud, Confiture de Bali started life as a creperie, and is now a jam connoisseur’s heaven. Each jar of low-sugar, additive-free goodness is made by hand, from the tropical fruit contents (which use just 360g sugar for every 1kg of fruit) to the batik lid covers, crafted by local women.The farm-to-toast jams use seasonal fruits sourced from organic farmers in the area, and are given a continental twist courtesy of co-owner Michelle’s old-school French recipe. At their Renon store on Sumerta Kelod Street you can drop in for a smoothie, pancake and free jam tastings, which involve a mind-boggling array of flavours such as spicy papaya and sour sop, laced with exotic local spices. Adventurous epicures should try the tamarillo (a tree tomato) and buni (a wild berry) – both indigenous fruits that will make your morning strawberry jam on toast seem positively pedestrian. Jl. Merdeka, Sumerta Kelod, Denpasar | +62 852-3884-1684 | confituredebali.net
( T e n-minuT e s cooT e r r i de )
mAmA Leon FAcTorY sTore
Famous for its batik, Mama Leon stocks something for every taste (and every price bracket) ranging from deepdye scarves to handmade lace and embroidered patchwork. JL. Raya PuPutan no.13, Dangin PuRi KLoD, DenPasaR tiMuR, 361 229 511, MaMaLeon.coM
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N e i g h b o u r h o o d
In the area ( F i v e -minut e s coot e r r ide )
Craft + Culture
TOKO TONDO Opened in 2015, this two-storey craft-meets-vintage store’s close proximity to the city’s art institute and university is no accident. Design students, craft hobbyists, and painters talk acrylics and make creative chit chat across its first floor shelves, which overflow with knitting yarns, wooden mannequins, spray paints, washi tapes, architectural model supplies and more than 20 different brands of brushes. It’s the place to go for specialist, hard-to-find art brands and transforms into a gallery space hosting art classes come the weekend. Head upstairs to the SUB Store – an outpost of the popular Jakarta shop, which houses an eclectic mix of vintage fashion and vinyl. Shop for collector miniature Tokoh action figures, slogan T-shirts printed by local designers and every imaginable genre of vinyl from funk to motown and rock to heavy metal, which you can nostalgically hum or move to on the old-school turntable. Jl. Dewi Madri No.1A, Sumerta Kelod, East Denpasar | +62 361-236076
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BAJrA sAndHi monument
Head inside this historic monument to study the 33 dioramas that chart Balinese history from 30,000 BC to the modern day, then take the spiral staircase for 360-degree views over the city. Jalan Raya PuPutan no. 142, PanJeR, DenPasaR
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E n t r E p r E n E u r
Nick aNd Scott dubai, uae
IMAGES: KRISTINA NAbIEvA | 32 |
E n t r E p r E n E u r
Left: the terrace at Folly Below: Scott Price
“
If you want to make a restaurant successful you’ve got to believe in it,” says Scott Price, one half of culinary duo Nick and Scott. “Success for us is a full restaurant every night. It’s not about awards or accolades or anything like that. It’s about being busy and people having a good time. That’s a successful restaurant.” It’s a week or so after the opening of Folly by Nick and Scott and Price is taking a well-earned break. He looks tired but remains chatty and convivial, considering the levels of stress he must be under. Then again, nobody said launching a restaurant would be easy. Situated in the Madinat Jumeirah on the site of the old Rivington Bar and Grill, Folly is the new venture by Price and partners Nick Alvis and Viktorija Paplauskiene. It is all bars and terraces and stunning views. It is also an informal take on modern fine dining, with the recipe for its own success firmly in place: two of Dubai’s most respected chefs in one of the city’s greatest locations.
The duo previously re-launched Verre by Gordon Ramsay at the Hilton Dubai Creek to critical acclaim, then opened the award-winning Table 9 by Nick and Scott, and developed the Taste Kitchen brand in partnership with Albwardy Investment and Spinneys. Now they have returned to the restaurant business via a partnership with Gates Hospitality. | 33 |
“We’ve waited a long time to do this so we want everything to be perfect,” says Price. “With Table 9 and Verre, we inherited a restaurant so we couldn’t do exactly what we wanted. It was never ours. This is our first baby and what you see now is pretty much what we wanted to do. “Two years ago we had an idea and to see it come to life – from working on the design, the uniforms, the food, the plates, the menus and even the little boxes with the cutlery in – is hugely rewarding. We’ve picked everything – the floor colours, the leather, everything. Even the music is ours because music is one of the most important things for us.” “Gates had the belief in us to say: ‘Go on, let’s see what you can do,’ so we need to make sure it’s right – because if we don’t make sure it’s right, nobody else is going to do it for us.” For Price, ‘right’ means a relaxed vibe with great food and great music. The tables are closer together, there’s a soundtrack of soul and funk, and Paplauskiene has
E n t r E p r E n E u r
with table 9 and verre, we kind of inherited a restaurant and couldn’t do exactly as we wanted curated a wine list that places lesser-known biodynamic wines next to an array of more classic choices. There is also an eightseat kitchen bar that allows diners the opportunity to experience the theatrical nature of a busy kitchen. “We’ve been out of the restaurant game properly for a few years now so it’s nice to know that people are still interested in what we’re doing,” admits Price. “There is a lot of expectation we put on ourselves and there is also the expectation from people coming through the door because of our background and previous restaurants.” That background is impressive. Alvis worked with Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s in London for three years before moving to Petrus, which was then overseen by Marcus Wareing and formed part of the opening team for Gordon Ramsay’s Au Trianon in Versailles, France. The latter went on to receive two Michelin stars within its first year of opening. Price also worked for Ramsay in London, ending up as sous chef at Claridge’s and the three-Michelin-starred Royal Hospital Road before heading to Dubai in 2010 to relaunch Verre with Alvis, at Ramsay’s behest. “Our background is fine dining so a lot is put into the process of sourcing ingredients and cooking to a very high standard,” says Price. “It’s the cooking standard of what you would expect in a fine dining restaurant but we’re doing it in a simple way. Generally the dishes have three or four ingredients and they’re very simple. It’s all about the taste and the flavour and getting things spot on, giving people the opportunity to try three, four or five dishes if they want to.” Those dishes include smoked paprika
Nick Alvis
monkfish cheeks, Omani shrimp with marjoram and lime gremolata and lamb saddle with whipped pine nuts and salsa, with the team sourcing as much local produce as they possibly can. “If you make an effort to go out and find it, you can,” says Price. “We had guys here this morning who are growing cresses in a warehouse in Al Quoz. It’s brilliant. Five years ago that was unheard of. The guy had been growing in England for years and was a fifth generation seed-grower. It’s nice to have people like that over here with real experience and passion for doing what they do.” Alvis, who until now has been buried by work in another part of the restaurant, makes a brief appearance. He too looks tired but cheerful. “You see a lot of things
coming and going,” he says. “We want something consistent, we want to be here, we want to be proud to be here, to taste every dish that goes out into the restaurant, to see everything and to make sure the guys are in tune with what we’re trying to do.”
want to learn more about the dubai dining scene? listen to the dubai restaurants podcast on channel 1505 on ice digital widescreen.
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E N T R E P R E N E U R
Viktorija Paplauskiene
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE Scott Price’s Dubai favourites Elia Tucked away at the top of the Majestic Hotel in Bur Dubai is a Greek restaurant called Elia. It’s charming with whitewashed walls and great, traditional Greek food.
TWO YEARS AGO WE HAD AN IDEA AND TO SEE IT COME TO LIFE – FROM THE UNIFORM DESIGN TO THE FOOD – IS JUST AMAZING Price laughs. “You know, we got Table 9 up to really high standards and I think the only night Nick took off in four years was when I got married in Italy and he flew over for the wedding and missed one night of service. Out of four years that was the only night that one of us wasn’t there and I had to put a gun to his head to do that.”
Such dedication and professionalism has paid off handsomely in the past and shows all the signs of doing so again. Michel Roux, the godfather of Michelin fare, has already eaten at Folly, as has Gary Rhodes, while pre-bookings are looking good. “We have to deliver,” says Price. “Table 9 was for us what we wanted to do at that time and this is what we want to do now. We looked at the market a lot. We could have done an all-British diner or something like that but we wanted to do what we want to do – for people to come for the food, for the drinks, for the music, for the service and because it’s a great place to go. That’s it really. We just want people to have a good time.” | 35 |
Al Qudra Cycle Track When I get time, I like to go cycling on Al Qudra cycle track. It’s more than 120km long and very peaceful. It’s an ideal place to clear your head after work. Unseen Trails Tour The sunrise Unseen Trails tour set in Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve offers a fantastic and sustainable take on the traditional desert safari. Baker and Spice I’ve been a fan of Baker and Spice for a long time now. Their dedication to sourcing local, organic produce is really impressive.
A collection of stories from around the world Up Close and Primal
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Gold rush ghost town A p e r f ect ly p r es e rv e d g o l d r u s h town, Bodie in California has been left in a permanent state of stasis, gathering dust after its population upped sticks in search of the next big rush images: Aya Okawa
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own a dusty, bumpy road, off state highway 395, lies Bodie; a ghost town born out of the gold rush. While this place once boomed – touted for some years as California’s second or third largest town and with a total gold output worth close to US$34 million – it was eventually doomed to a
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fate typical of the rush. Once the precious metal had been mined, the people left, leaving Bodie in a permanent state of stasis. “When I was shooting, a number of houses had calendars on the walls from the early 1900s,” says filmmaker, photographer and producer Aya Okawa, who took the pictures.“Now the site is monitored by the
California State Park service to protect the historic buildings from looters.” Not all of the town survived but 110 or so structures still stand. Okawa’s pictures show the buildings’ interiors are as originally left, with domestic furniture sitting just as the town’s citizens had arranged them: a perfectly preserved gold rush ghost town.
Striking gold WS Bodey was a man of solid reputation living in Poughkeepsie, New York. He was a tin manufacturer with a shop on Main Street but he craved adventure and excitement. In 1848, after hearing of gold being discovered in California, Bodey set sail for the west coast in search of his own fortune. Ten years later, he would find both it and tragedy in equal measure. In 1859, east of Mono Lake, Bodey discovered gold. It was a find that sparked
a rush and birthed a town. Unfortunately, the man the town was named after – the name changing from Bodey to Bodie over time – would never actually get to see it flourish. In November of the same year, while on a supply trip to nearby Monoville, Bodey got lost in a blizzard. When he eventually couldn’t continue, his companion left him to his fate. He froze to death with his body not found until the following spring.
Emirates serves two destinations in California – San Francisco and Los Angeles.
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Boom time for Bodie While there was gold in the hills, Bodie still struggled to prosper as nearby towns thrived. It remained more of a mining camp than a bona fide town. But when significant gold-bearing ore was discovered in 1876, it was transformed into a genuine Wild West boomtown. And boy, was it wild. By 1879 there was a population of nearly 7,000, with a Wells Fargo bank, four volunteer fire companies, several newspapers
and a mile long main street boasting 65 saloons. Nights were lively and, after a long day searching for gold, the get-rich-quick prospectors would head into town to the saloons. Murders, shootouts, bar room brawls and stagecoach hold-ups were commonplace. Newspapers later reported that, after a night in Bodie, people would regularly ask: “Have a man for breakfast?� It meant: did anybody get killed last night?
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The gold runs out Unfortunately for Bodie, as soon as the gold went, so did the majority of the people. Such was a prospector’s life. Mainly single men, when the precious metal went, so did they; off in search of the next boom, the next fortune. After a steady decline, a 1910 census gave Bodie’s population as just 698 – mainly families who had stayed behind after the rush. In 1912 the last edition of the last local newspaper ran off the presses while 1915 saw the first recorded note of Bodie as a ‘ghost town’ – in an article rebutting the notion – in the San Francisco Chronicle. However, by 1917, the town’s railway has been abandoned and the iron tracks scrapped. By 1920 there were officially just 120 people left, although the town still had a few inhabitants up until 1943. | 43 |
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The heritage site After suffering from the threat of vandalism in the 1940s, caretakers were sent to look after Bodie by the Cain family, who owned much of the land. It was designated a national historic landmark in 1961 and became Bodie State Historic Park – an official gold rush ghost town – the following year, preserved in a state of arrested decay. It now attracts more than 20,000 visitors a year. | 44 |
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up close a words: sarah freeman images: levison wood | 46 |
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In a bId to protect some of the world’s most endangered prImates, two natIonal parks In Uganda are gIvIng toUrIsts the opportUnIty to encoUnter wIld gorIllas and chImps In closer proxImIty than ever before | 48 |
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Through habituation programmes, you can follow a guide into the forest and become a real-life mountain gorilla tracker
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rekking with mountain gorillas has been the stuff of bucket lists ever since David Attenborough’s famous gorilla encounter in Rwanda captured the world’s imagination in 1978. While that offered a spot of much-needed PR, it was groundbreaking American primatologist Dian Fossey who was pivotal in shifting the global perception of the animal from King Kong to gentle giant of the forest. In the 1960s and 1970s mountain gorillas were threatened to near extinction by poaching, disease and rebel militia – a plight that was brought to the world’s attention by Fossey. And despite being a now critically endangered species with an estimated 880 left in the wild, the fact they are here at all defies statistics. In their darkest hour, gorilla numbers plummeted to just 250 in Central and East Africa.The scarcest of the four subspecies, mountain gorillas, are now only found in Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo.
Tourists embarking on a full-day trek to catch just an hour in the presence of these splendid beasts might not be aware of the immense role they are playing potentially in their survival. As the legendary primate researcher and humanitarian Jane Goodall once said: “It’s tourism involvement with the mountain gorillas that saved them.” Now several projects in Uganda are taking the role of ecotourism one stage further in a last ditch attempt to strike them off the endangered species list. Humans share 98 per cent of gorillas’ DNA. Our almost identical genes have made it possible for a process called habituation to be implemented, whereby researchers and rangers repeatedly visit groups of wild gorillas and chimps until they tolerate the presence of humans. And while habituation is not an entirely new concept, its deployment with tourists is a more recent development – helping to financially support the ongoing conservation work that traditional habituation provides. The very first groups of gorillas were habituated to researchers in Bwindi’s forests (located in the country’s southwestern frontier) in the early 1990s, with only political instability in the 1970s and 1980s preventing it from happening earlier. There are currently 400 individuals and 38 gorilla families living in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, 11 of which have been habituated for tourism. The area’s designation as a world heritage site in 1994 has been seen as a real lifeline. Unfortunately, in neighbouring Virunga’s mountain ranges, where the species was first discovered in 1902, the future is not
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so rosy. Its fragile ecosystem is constantly under threat from oil drilling and in the past two decades, either armed rebels or poachers have killed more than 130 rangers. But in Bwindi the situation is reassuringly stable, helped by giving locals a stake in their local wildlife through communitybased conservation, which has made them advocates for the gorillas’ survival. The World Wildlife Fund (WWF) estimates one mountain gorilla can indirectly generate US$2.5 million over its lifetime in income. This works on both a local and national level. It’s estimated that US$8 from every gorilla trek goes directly to impoverished locals and communities receive 20 per cent of the entry fees generated from the park. Then there are spin-offs like souvenir shops and hotels as well as national park jobs. On a wider scale, gorilla tourism contributes around 80 per cent to the national wildlife authority’s entire budget. Although a typical gorilla tourist comes here to lock eyes with one of our closest ancestors, they end up visiting other regional parks and attractions too, which infiltrates the wider economy. Thankfully the delicate balance between nature and tourism is carefully managed in Bwindi, with only 88 permits issued a day across the 331 square kilometre park. And while gorilla trekking will make a US$600 dent in the average visitor’s wallet, habituation starts at US$1,500, buying you four hours in the company of these powerful yet peaceful animals. However, the experience is less about being a voyeur and more about being an active participant in the conservation process. Local gorilla vet and researcher Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka says: “Tourists are basically researchers for the day with minimal behavioural disturbance to the gorillas.” In groups limited to
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TourisTs embarking on a full-day Trek To mounTain gorillas may be blissfully unaware of The immense role They’re playing in Their survival four, they get to track the gorillas and look for signs like fresh dung and discarded fruit with rangers and researchers. “The park rangers and trackers habituate gorillas from 100 metres right down to five.” It’s a lengthy process that can take anywhere from two to four years. Kalema-Zikusoka is one of Bwindi’s most respected gorilla doctors who dispense hands-on medical care to ill and injured habituated mountain gorillas as part of a non-profit organisation that operates in Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. According to a gorilla research paper written by Martha Robbins (director of the Bwindi Mountain Gorilla Project): “Veterinary interventions could account for up to 40 per cent of the difference in growth rates between habituated versus unhabituated gorillas.” Inevitably, there are risks to exposing gorillas to humans. As well as potentially contracting diseases from humans, they can begin to lose their fear of humans, making them more vulnerable to poachers. Because of our near-identical DNA, even a common
Teams of rangers track the animals in a bid to habituate. Eventually they get to know exactly when the gorillas and chimps are happy, sad, and playful
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While tourism supports conservation, the parks are still mindful of the animals in Bwindi, meaning that only 88 permits are issued per day
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As the group often splits to hunt and travel, chimpanzees are tough to track, meaning tourists need to scramble across the forest to catch a glimpse
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cold can make an entire family of gorillas sick, meaning tourists have to guarantee a clean bill of health before venturing into their habitat. Still, the net results are healthier population growth, as British primatologist Richard Wrangham explains: “Even though poachers have sometimes killed individuals in habituated groups (26 deaths in four years), habituated groups have grown overall at a steady and very encouraging rate (4.1 per cent per year). By contrast, the total number of gorillas in the unhabituated groups has tended to decline (0.7 per cent per year). If you want to protect mountain gorillas, the best thing to do is to habituate them. Habituation protects, among other things, by keeping poachers away.” And this is largely thanks to the research field staff, whose daily monitoring of the gorillas have made them the first line of defence against poachers. Mountain gorillas are incapable of surviving in zoos so the researchers’ ability to observe our mighty mountain cousins at close range has generated new data on their behaviour, ecology and physiology, thanks to habituation. But when it comes to the gorillas’ emotional wellbeing, it is the rangers who have forged a special relationship. “When you look at their faces and their mouth you know they are sad,” reveals head guide and ranger Augustine Muhangi, at Rushaga in the park’s southern sector. Muhangi has become something of a behavioural expert. “If they have watery stools they are not happy. If they walk for more than a kilometre a day – they are not happy.” You naturally get to know their personalities too. “There is a silverback called Rusheenya (meaning destroyer), who is very powerful and breaks branches, a young male called Kazani (which translates as playful) and females Raha (lively) and Mwiza (the beautiful one).” Around 350km north in the tropical rainforests of Kibale resides the highest concentration of primates in Africa and another habituation project that is safeguarding the future of our closest living relatives – chimpanzees. Just like gorillas, they have suffered at the hands of humans, with an estimated 170,000 living in tropical Africa, compared to one million just 50 years ago. As well as being slaughtered for their babies and hunted for their meat, habitat destruction and Ebola have also contributed to their near-demise. But an expanding project in Kibale National Park, home to 1,450 chimps (the largest single population in Uganda), is being helmed by 80 dedicated rangers on a mission to reverse their fortunes through habituation. It takes much longer to habituate a chimpanzee versus a gorilla (between five to nine years) because the community tends to break off in groups of six or fewer to feed, travel and sleep before coming together again. Four of the five ongoing projects in Kibale have habituated these arboreal apes solely for research. One such group is the Kanyawara community, comprising 60 chimps, the subjects of a long-term field study called the Kibale Chimpanzee Project, founded in 1987 by Wrangham. “In the case of groups habituated for research like
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InevItably, there are rIsks wIth exposIng gorIllas to humans, who as well as potentIally contractIng dIseases from us, can also lose theIr fear, makIng them more vulnerable to poachers Kanyawara,” says Wrangham, “the study provides information about natural history (leading to stories and movies that interest people and thereby promote support), disease (which is helpful for conservation) and conservation threats. The Kanyawara community has grown gently since we started habituating 30 years ago and continues to go from strength to strength.” One man who has probably spent more time hanging out with chimps than his fellow homo sapiens is 63-year-old guide Kyamukama Silver, who has dedicated 25 years to Kibale’s chimps. Silver brandishes a rifle over one shoulder and machete in one hand and we battle through dense thicket in the hope of encountering a few of the highly social animals, as part of the park’s dawn-to-dusk chimpanzee habituation experience. In reality, tourists spend more time listening to the deafening hoots and screams of the Kanyanchu chimp community or catching a glimpse of a limb hanging from the tree canopy, where they spend hours grazing on fruit and berries (which you quickly learn to expertly dodge). “They even self-medicate by eating bitter plants from the forest,” says Silver, who has an encyclopaedic knowledge of our closest kin. But unlike their mountain cousins, chimpanzees can move quickly over densely vegetated terrain so tourists can find themselves suddenly traversing steep, muddy slopes – with their efforts rewarded with hours watching them groom, play, breastfeed, patrol and even smile. Habituating Kanyanchu for tourism has proven to be a vital revenue stream for the park, according to Wrangham. “[In Kibale] one of the first things I did was to promote an ecotourism group and help habituate a community that became the Kanyanchu tourist group, which has led to consistent support from the Ugandan government for the conservation of Kibale,” he says. Silver is heading into retirement next year but that won’t stop him visiting his ape family. With another community called Buraiga on track to be fully habituated for tourists soon, it looks like Kibale’s chimps have a fighting chance to shift primate populations in the right direction.
Emirates operates a daily service to Entebbe with the Boeing 777-300ER.
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It takes longer to habituate a chimp compared to a mountain gorilla, but the Kanyawara group comprises 60 under study for the Kibale Chimpanzee Project
More than ever, the future of these vulnerable chimps and gorillas is in the hands of the local communities. The WWF acknowledges this: “Ecotourism – socially and environmentally responsible tourist visits, including carefully guided trips to see gorillas – can also be an important way for local people to gain benefit from living in close proximity to gorillas.” The key is putting local people in the frontline of its sustainable ecotourism initiatives. While one Ugandan project uses community patrols to monitor the gorillas’ movements and chase them back into the forest if they stray onto agricultural land, another is helping local people to develop tea plantations (the one crop gorillas hate) that serve as a buffer between the mountain gorillas and villages. As long as the economic value of ecotourism works in favour of local communities and human interest in seeing our closest kin in the wild continues, habituation could very well be the lifeline that primates so desperately need. | 57 |
CLUB CLASS It might well be one of London’s most famed private clubs – with a membership list to match – but The Arts Club is just as relevant today as it was when it was launched by Charles Dickens in 1863 Words: Julia Eskins | 58 |
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the cashmere walls of the Arts Club in London could talk, they’d likely have a few stories to tell about pomp, pageantry and potent conversations. It’s true that many notables have passed through the Mayfair abode’s marble foyer and up the winding staircase beneath Tomás Saraceno’s hanging geometric sculpture. But like all private clubs, discretion is everything. When the Arts Club first opened its doors in Hanover Square in 1863, it served as a secret meeting place for co-founders Charles Dickens, Anthony Trollope, Lord Leighton and friends. The social venue quickly became a sphere for intellectuals to exert their influence and develop their careers. Among its first members were Auguste Rodin, Edgar Degas and Claude Monet, who set the artistic tone early on. Members-only spaces have long been an integral part of London’s social scene. In recent years, however, they’ve evolved into boundary-pushing hubs for creative thought, leading to an international resurgence felt beyond London’s West End. “I believe that the revival of club culture is a response to the seismic shift in communication today – email, texting, digital social networks and so on, which remove true human contact,” says Alice ChadwyckHealey, executive director of the Arts Club. “It’s a natural human instinct to be drawn to people with similar interests as oneself so it would follow that we seek out places populated by kindred spirits.” While the clubhouse has since changed address and opened its membership to women, its ethos has survived two world wars and a bombing in the Blitz. Housed in an 18th century townhouse on the affluent Dover Street, it remains one of London’s most revered private haunts – not an easy feat in a city famous for its elitist enclaves. However, it wasn’t until 2011 that the club finally shook its antiquated reputation and solidified a spot on the radars of contemporary movers and shakers, with Gwyneth Paltrow as its creative director to boot. Following a complete refurbishment of the seven-storey Georgian building, including a new stylish art deco-inspired interior designed by David D’Almada, the Arts Club has entered a new epoch. With its freshly minted hotel and plans to roll out new international locations in Dubai, West Hollywood and Canary Wharf, its relevance shows no sign of waning. After all, every metropolis needs a covert space for magnates to mingle. In London, it happens to be the Arts Club, where Beyonce, Cameron Diaz and Mario Testino are frequently spotted. Despite the paparazzi shots that surface almost daily, its directors and principal shareholders, Indian-born venture capitalist Arjun Waney and property developer Gary Landesberg, stay tight-lipped about their clientele. Overseeing the club’s art, music and event programming, Chadwyck-Healey leads a detailed process of scouting talent and finding speakers three to six months in advance. The curatorial | 60 |
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team is ever mindful of the establishment’s historical mission of creating an atmosphere that attracts emerging talent in the fields of both art and music. As a result, the Arts Club was one of the first to show acclaimed artists Theaster Gates and Hugo McCloud in the UK while Grammy winner Sam Smith graced the nightclub stage well before he became a household name. “Sometimes it’s down to good fortune,” says Chadwyck-Healey. “We’d invited Alexandra Shulman to talk at the club some months earlier and it ended up happening two days after her resignation from British Vogue. On other occasions we’ll turn events around in 48 hours to ensure members are absolutely up to date. When news of Greece’s financial collapse surfaced in 2015, we had Nobel Prize-winning economist Joseph Stiglitz in the club addressing the subject to a packed room two days later.” With influential moguls like fashion designer Stella McCartney on the advisory board and artist Sir Peter Blake serving as president, the club’s events and temporary exhibitions are defined by several creative thinkers. The chance to dine next to artwork by Albert Oehlen in the Brasserie and see Dionne Warwick perform in the basement club is not afforded to everyone, though. Membership fees are well above US$1,230 per annum and in order to join, you’ll need two existing members to back your application. There is also a six to nine-month waiting list. Once you’re in, you have access to several inspiring spaces, including a salon, drawing room, library, bar, conservatory and summer terrace. Even more exclusive is the club’s 16-room hotel that opened in autumn 2015, one of central London’s smallest yet most private boutique accommodations. Only members of the club can book rooms, which are outfitted with artwork, hand-tufted rugs and bathrooms finished in Calacatta Oro marble. Naturally, the biggest draw is having access to the club’s events, allowing guests to sit in on members’ talks. For some, having the opportunity to hear Diane von Furstenberg address a crowd is well worth the nightly rate of US$770.
On the DOcket the Arts club will soon be rolling out new branches in key financial centres around the world Dubai
Spring 2019 Arjun Waney is no stranger to Dubai’s culinary scene. the restaurateur behind La petite Maison and Zuma now has plans to open an Arts club location in the city of gold. the development will be designed by Londonbased Foster and partners, the same architecture firm behind Dubai’s newest 53-storey crystalline skyscraper with views of SOM’s Burj khalifa. | 61 |
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While shaking its fusty reputation, the club has attracted a new generation of young talent. Twin sisters Mandeep and Hardeep Kaur, two west London fashion designers, have used the club to play host to clients and friends since 2013. Among their favourite perks is the ability to visit sister clubs while travelling abroad, including Cercle de l’Union Interalliée in Paris. Other international reciprocal clubs include the Helena May in China, Arti et Amicitiae in the Netherlands and the National Arts Club in New York City. “We were intrigued by having a space close to us that would be our second home, a place to meet, to work, and on occasion to sit by the fire and read a good book,” says Hardeep. Even in today’s digital world, having a place to discuss, debate or simply step away from the information tsunami into a quiet corner is essential. People will always seek out good conversation in art-filled spaces. Perhaps Charles Dickens didn’t foresee the advent of online networking when he opened the Arts Club’s doors but his original concept remains relevant. In the best of times and the worst of times, the importance of the human connection prevails.
Emirates operates 126 flights per week from Dubai to the UK – six services a day to Heathrow, three daily to London Gatwick, Manchester and Birmingham, two per day to Glasgow and a daily service to Newcastle.
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Autumn/winter 2019 Actress Gwyneth Paltrow, an Arts Club advisory board member, will be opening a west Hollywood branch with partners Landesberg and waney. the initial renderings of the 132,000-square-footvenue on Sunset Strip by architecture firm Gensler features a spa, gym, rooftop pool, art gallery and helipad.
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SPrinG 2020 the Quay Club, a multimillion dollar floating private club, will soon open its doors in London’s business district of Canary wharf. Landesberg and the waney family will be working with Japanese architect Aoki Jun on the development, which is said to feature a restaurant, members’ lounges, gym, treatment studio and open terrace overlooking middle Dock.
A collection of inspirational quotes from
Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan a man who fought for unity, preached equality and transformed the UAE.
‘I had many dreams. I dreamt of our land keeping pace with the growth of the modern world.’ – S H E I K H Z AY E D B I N S U LTA N A L N A H YA N
ava i l a b l e i n a l l m a j o r b o o k s t o r e s a n d at b o o k s a r a b i a . c o m
# Fat h e r O f O u r N at i o n
Essential news and information from Emirates Daily A380 to the French Riviera
Inside Emirates
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Daily a380 to the French riviera
Emirates is to launch a daily A380 service to Nice, the gateway to the French Riviera and Provence. The service will begin on July 1, making Nice only the second destination in France after Paris to welcome the iconic double decker aircraft. The deployment of an A380 represents a capacity increase of 44 per cent on the
route, which is currently served with a daily flight operated by a Boeing 777-300ER. With 3,633 weekly seats in each direction, Emirates will offer more seats to the Middle East and beyond than any other international airline, highlighting Nice’s importance as part of the airline’s global network. “We’re excited to see the city join the
tripaDvisor names emirates Best airline in the WorlD Emirates was named best airline in the world at TripAdvisor’s Travellers’ Choice Awards recently, and also won four other
awards including: best major airline (Middle East and Africa), best economy class, best first class and world’s best airlines – top 10.
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other 46 destinations Emirates currently serves with the A380 and look forward to being the first airline to fly this iconic aircraft to Nice,” said Thierry Antinori, Emirates’ executive vice president and chief commercial officer. “We expect the A380 service to further grow the number of leisure and business travellers that visit the south of France throughout the year.” This was the first time TripAdvisor had introduced a category for airlines, with results based on reviews gathered over 12 months. Sir Tim Clark, president of Emirates Airline said, “We are honoured to be named the best airline in the world at the TripAdvisor Travellers’ Choice Awards for airlines 2017. The fact that the awards are a result of unbiased reviews and feedback speaks to our commitment to deliver a superior travel experience for our customers. We want travellers to continue making Emirates their first choice whenever they think to travel. That is why we continue to invest in products and services across all classes and why our service teams work hard and put their hearts into providing the very best experience for our customers, both on board and on the ground every day.”
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Second daily Service to Bali Emirates is planning a second daily service to Bali, Indonesia. Starting July 2, it will meet the growing demand for travel to and from the island, offering travellers more convenience and connectivity options. Operated by Emirates’ popular Boeing 777-300ER aircraft in a two-class configuration, the outbound flight will depart from Dubai at 01.25 and arrive at I Gusti Ngurah Rai International Airport at 14.30. The service will connect seamlessly with a number of destinations across Europe, including Amsterdam, Moscow, Paris and London. The return flight will depart at 16.30 and arrive at Dubai International Airport at 21.30. Emirates began services to Indonesia in 1992 with three flights per week via Singapore and Colombo. Since March 2013 the airline has been operating three nonstop flights daily from Jakarta to Dubai with a Boeing 777 aircraft. Emirates has also been operating daily flights connecting Bali and Dubai since June 2015.
Skycargo launcheS freSh tranSport SolutionS Emirates SkyCargo, the freight division of Emirates, has launched Emirates SkyFresh, a suite of solutions that will help maintain the freshness of perishables and fresh consumables during transportation. Emirates SkyFresh brings together Emirates SkyCargo’s state-of-the-art
infrastructure, a modern fleet of widebodied aircraft, a range of innovative cool chain solutions, including the brand new Ventilated Cool Dolly and experienced staff ready to ensure that perishables such as fruits, vegetables, seafood, meat and flowers maintain their | 68 |
complete freshness during the entire air transportation process. Emirates SkyFresh will feature three levels: Emirates SkyFresh, Emirates SkyFresh Breathe and Emirates SkyFresh Active, offering varied levels of cool chain protection for different types of perishables.
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HigHer learning As Emirates Aviation University celebrates its 25th anniversary, we look at how education and training is supporting the extraordinary new demand for aviation professionals WORDs: Matt MOstyn
It’s been 25 years since Emirates Aviation University first began offering its unique training programmes to prospective aviation professionals. And with more than 15,000 students from 84 countries passing through its doors since 1991, the academic wing of the Emirates Group has already played a vital role in shaping the success of what has become a primary industry for the region. According to the 2014 report Quantifying the Economic Impact of Aviation in Dubai, the aviation sector as a whole contributed US$26.7 billion to Dubai’s economy in 2013 – almost 27 per cent of its GDP. It also supported a total of 416,500 jobs, accounting for 21 per cent of the city’s total employment. Moreover, for every 100 jobs created in aviation, an additional 116 jobs are created elsewhere in Dubai.
With global economies expanding, and airlines expected to take delivery of thousands of new commercial jetliners over the next 20 years, there’s now an extraordinary demand for industry professionals. Last year’s Boeing Pilot and Technician Outlook projected a staggering future demand that meant by 2037, 617,000 new commercial airline pilots, 679,000 new maintenance technicians, and 814,000 new cabin crew will all be needed. And with personnel increasingly coming from diverse backgrounds, instructors will also need to have cross-cultural and crossgenerational skills to engage tomorrow’s workforce. Meeting this demand will require innovative solutions that can effectively support the next generation of pilots, technicians, and cabin crew. As a result, the aviation training industry is embracing new technologies, devices, and training methods.
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By 2020, it is estimated that Emirates will fly 70 million passengers annually – and so the airline and its partners are already progressing plans for the right infrastructure to be in place to support and capitalise on passenger growth. Aviation education and training figures strongly in their vision, and the airline has already invested hugely to meet the demands of an ever-evolving sector. Today, Emirates Aviation University (EAU) is one of the region’s most prestigious Universities – and it’s also the Middle East’s leading educational institution for aeronautical engineering, aviation management, business management, aviation safety and security. Growing from a small college to a fully-fledged university in 2014, it offers more than 44 programmes in various fields of study. This growth underscores the demand for quality higher education in the UAE, and EAU continues to expand and cement its position at the heart of aviation education excellence. With a state-of-the-art campus that can accommodate more than 5,000 students, EAU offers 80 classrooms, engineering workshops, computer labs, a two-storey library, an indoor café, indoor student lounges, outdoor sporting facilities, student accommodation and a range of ultra-modern facilities. The university offers both postgraduate and undergraduate programmes in everything from aviation management and logistics and supply chain management, to aeronautical engineering, aerospace technology, pilot training and a wide
range of aviation and aviation related programmes. The university is licensed by the UAE Ministry, Education and the Knowledge and Human Development Authority, and its programmes have been internationally and nationally accredited by the National Qualifications Authority and the Ministry of Education – Higher Education Affairs. Meanwhile EAU dually awarded programmes, in collaboration with Coventry University, are QAA approved. Vice-Chancellor of Emirates Aviation University, Dr. Ahmad Al Ali, described how the university has set its sights firmly on delivering training of the highest standard, to ensure that the industry’s aviation professionals reach their full potential. “EAU offers outstanding educational programmes that allow students to develop their creative, analytical, communication and critical thinking skills in a collaborative, nurturing environment that promotes lifelong learning and contributes to success in their professional careers.” The university recently introduced a new Executive MBA Programme in Aviation Management, in collaboration with Coventry University – ranked 15th best in the UK. “This is the first specialised MBA programme in aviation on offer in the UAE,” explained Dr Al Ali. “It was introduced to train professionals for senior management level positions and is delivered in both Dubai and the UK, enabling professionals to visit and see first-hand the breadth of operations in aviation-relevant organisations. It’s an exciting step forward, enabling us to provide a platform to launch a host of successful new careers in the airline industry.” In order to attract the number of students required to support passenger growth, the University also offers a range of scholarships and financial aid packages designed to assist academically distinguished students and those with limited financial resources. With the total economic impact of aviation projected to grow to US$88.1 billion, supporting 1,194,700 jobs by 2030, it’s clear that institutions like Emirates Aviation University will continue to play a pivotal role in helping to sustain one of the UAE’s most important economies for generations to come.
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D e s t i n a t i o n
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D E S T I N A T I O N
ZAGREB From June 1, Emirates will operate a daily service from Dubai to Zagreb. Here’s how to enjoy the historic Croatian capital city Zagreb, the capital of independent Croatia since 1991, has been traditionally viewed as a mere sideshow to the splendours of the Dalmatian Coast.Think Croatia and you think of the picturesque resort of Split and the stunningly beautiful city of Dubrovnik. Yet Zagreb, despite a combination of prim and proper AustroHungarian architecture and socialist brutalism, has become a popular destination in its own right. Culture, arts, music, architecture and gastronomy all combine effortlessly in a city that is disarmingly easy to navigate. Steeped in history and culture and with an abundance of pavement cafes and restaurants to be enjoyed throughout the
warmer months, almost everything revolves around Ban Jelac̃ić Square. From there you can explore the Upper Town (Gornji GradMedvešc̃ak), the two oldest parts of the city (Kaptol and Gradec) and the Lower Town (Donji Grad), which is busier and less attractive but filled with public buildings and 19th century apartment blocks. A relatively small metropolis, Zagreb is a vibrant capital with a solid and reputable art calendar, fantastic nightlife and a dizzying array of live music venues that put many other European cities in the shade. It’s also located in the northwest of Croatia, which means easy access to the country’s mountains and national parks, while the ski resort of Sljeme is just a 20-minute drive away.
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STAY
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ZINFANDEL’S Situated in the Esplanade Zagreb Hotel – built to provide accommodation for passengers of the Orient Express in 1925 – Zinfandel’s is one of Zagreb’s top culinary destinations. The menu changes to reflect the seasons but expect a daily selection of fresh fish and some of the best cuisine around. zinfandels.hr
ESPLANADE ZAGREB HOTEL Home to Zinfandel’s, this five-star architectural gem is unquestionably Zagreb’s most upmarket hotel. Restored to its former Art Deco glory in 2004 and close to the city’s main railway station, the Esplanade Zagreb and its 208 rooms offer a level of opulence you will not find anywhere else in the country. esplanade.hr
BAN JELACIC SQUARE This is the central square of Zagreb and pretty much everything you need to see in the city can be reached from this spot. That includes the lively Tkalc̃ićeva Street. Built in the AustroHungarian style, it stands at the centre of Zagreb’s social life and is also home to another local must-see: Gric̃ki top (the Gric̃ cannon), which is fired every day to mark midday.
DUBRAVKIN PUT Located in a wooded dell between the Upper Town and the Tuškanac woods, Dubravkin Put’s decor emphasises the beauty of natural materials. With elegant and modern furnishings, it’s also one of Zagreb’s top destinations for seafood. Expect Adriatic tuna tartare, daily offerings of fresh fish and Croatian beefsteak aged for a minimum of 21 days. dubravkin-put.com
HOTEL PRESIDENT PANTOVCAK An exclusive boutique hotel located in the very heart of Zagreb, the Hotel President Pantovc̃ak opened in late 2008 and oozes both style and luxury. Not far from Britanski Square, it offers a smartly designed combination of the old and the new and backs onto delightfully quiet gardens surrounded by wild cherry trees. A perfect location to gather your thoughts. president-zagreb.com
MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART Zagreb is a great city for galleries but none more so than the Museum of Contemporary Art situated on Avenija Dubrovnik. Covering 14,500 square metres, its extensive collection includes the work of contemporary international and Croatian artists, making it the most significant museum to open in Zagreb for more than a century.
KORCULA If you’re searching for the traditional, then Korc̃ula is a must. Located in the centre of the city on the corner of Teslina and Preradovićeva, it’s furnished with details of Dalmatia and the island of Korc̃ula. Try the daily fresh seafood salad or risotto, washed down with a wide range of Croatian wines. restoran-korcula.hr
DOUBLETREE BY HILTON HOTEL ZAGREB It may be in the heart of Zagreb’s business district and two kilometres from the historic city centre but it's luxurious, stylish and great value for money. With much wrought iron and floor-to-ceiling glass, the hotel makes the most of its high-rise views. doubletree3.hilton.com
MIROGOJ CEMETERY Not what you’d expect from a regular cemetery, this final resting place for 300,000 souls was designed in 1876 by Austrian-born architect Herman Bollé. The end result is a majestic arcade topped by a string of ornate cupolas, while inside are magnificent monuments to Croatia’s most prominent citizens.
EMIRATES STAFF TIPS GO TO THE MARKET I recommend a famous open market square in the city centre called Dolac. Here you can buy organic food directly from farms around Zagreb, meet local people and learn about Croatian food.
VISIT A UNIQUE MUSEUM Head to the Museum of Broken Relationships for letters, artefacts and objects related to people’s past relationships, along with stories of how they all ended.
Krunoslav Cordas CABIN SUPERVISOR
EK129 departs Dubai at 08.15 and arrives in Zagreb at 12.20 local time. Return flight EK130 departs Zagreb at 15.35 and arrives in Dubai 23.05.
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C O M F O R T
COMFORT IN THE AIR To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time onboard with Emirates today.
SMART TRAVELLER
DRINK PLENTY OF WATER Rehydrate with water or juices frequently. Drink tea and coffee in moderation.
TRAVEL LIGHTLY
WEAR GLASSES
USE SKIN MOISTURISER
KEEP MOVING
Carry only the essential items that you will need during your flight.
Cabin air is drier than normal, therefore swap your contact lenses for glasses.
Apply a good quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.
Exercise your lower legs and calf muscles. This encourages blood flow.
BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition. Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications? Get a good night’s rest before the flight. Eat lightly and sensibly.
AT THE AIRPORT
MAKE YOURSELF COMFORTABLE Loosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body.
DURING THE FLIGHT
Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in. Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress. Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.
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Chewing and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent. Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy. Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently. Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.
SHARPS BOXES Sharps boxes are available onboard all Emirates flights for safe disposal of medical equipment. Please ask a member of your cabin crew for more information.
WHEN YOU ARRIVE Try some light exercise or read if you can’t sleep after arrival.
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Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle-free as possible.
CUSToMS DECLARATIoN FoRM All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.
ElEctronic SyStEm for travEl authoriSation (ESta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Program, you must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure. ESta factS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending. A successful ESTA application is valid for two years. However, this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport. apply onlinE at www.cbp.gov/ESta nationalitiES EligiblE for thE viSa waivEr*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom** * SubjEct to changE ** only britiSh citizEnS qualify undEr thE viSa waivEr program. | 76 |
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Cut the queue at JFK with quiCK ConneCt If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service. The US Customs and Border Protection agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.
Follow TheSe STePS:
1
2
3
4
have your boarding card or ticket for your connecting flight ready for the ground staff as you exit.
You’ll be given a Quick Connect card. Continue to the Quick Connect queue in the Arrivals hall.
After passport clearance, claim your baggage and clear US customs, regardless of your final destination.
If your bag is tagged to your final destination, hand it to emirates staff at the transfer counter for your onward flight.
quarantine in australia Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card. You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left onboard. Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.
quarantine in Japan Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items. You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if: • you have recently been to a livestock farm • are bringing livestock products into Japan • your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock The counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer. | 78 |
Dhs 20,500
U A E
S M A R T
G A T E
BE SMART! USE UAE SMART GATE AT DUBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES
UAE
Andorra
Australia
Austria
Bahrain
Belgium
Brunei
Canada
Denmark
Finland
France
Germany
Greece
Iceland
Ireland
Italy
Japan
Kuwait
Liechtenstein
Luxembourg
Malaysia
Monaco
Netherlands
New Zealand
Norway
Oman
Portugal
Qatar
San Marino
Saudi Arabia
Singapore
South Korea
Spain
Sweden
Switzerland
*UK
USA
GO THROUGH IMMIGRATION IN SECONDS AND GET YOUR VISIT TO DUBAI OFF TO A FLYING START Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International by using UAE Smart Gate. If you hold a machine-readable passport, an E-Gate card or Emirates ID card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds. Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International Airport.
USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY
1
Have your machine-readable passport, E-Gate card or Emirates ID card ready to be scanned
2
Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, place your E-Gate card or Emirates ID card into the card slot
OK!
3
Go through the open gate, stand in the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When finished, the next set of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim
REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer. That’s it! Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you landed. IF YOU’RE A UAE RESIDENT Remember to bring your Emirates ID card next time you’re travelling through DXB – you’ll be able to speed through passport control in a matter of seconds, without paying and without registering. Valid at all Smart Gates, located in Arrivals and Departures across all three terminals at DXB. | 80 |
*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)
UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY:
• Machine-readable passports from the above countries • E-Gate cards • Emirates ID cards
R O U T E
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M A P
R O U T E
M A P
NEW ROUTE: Zagreb: daily service starts June 1 Phnom Penh: daily service via Yangon starts July 1
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R O U T E
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M A P
CORPORATE & COMMERCIAL LEGAL SERVICES LITIGATION, ARBITRATION & ADR BUSINESS SETUP & COMPANY REGISTRATION OFFSHORE & FREE ZONE COMPANY FORMATION INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY & E-COMMERCE LAWS BANKING, INSURANCE & MARITIME LAWS REAL ESTATE & CONSTRUCTION LAWS MEDICAL NEGLIGENCE DRAFTING & CONTRACT REVIEWS LEGAL TRANSLATION DEBT COLLECTION TRADEMARK & PATENT REGISTRATION PROTECTION & ENFORCEMENT
DUBAI
EMIRATES TOWERS 14th Floor, Sheikh Zayed Road P.O. Box: 9055, Dubai-UAE T+971 4 330 43 43 F +971 4 330 39 39
ABU DHABI
JABEL ALI
SHARJAH
INTERNET CITY
TEL: +971 2 639 44 46 auh@emiratesadvocates.com TEL: +971 6 572 86 66 shj@emiratesadvocates.com
TEL: +971 4 887 16 79 jafz@emiratesadvocates.com TEL: +971 4 390 08 20 dic@emiratesadvocates.com
RAS AL KHAIMAH
TEL: +971 7 204 67 19 rak@emiratesadvocates.com
UAE | SAUDI ARABIA | QATAR | BAHRAIN | KUWAIT | OMAN
R O U T E
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M A P
MOH AG39622-31.05.17
THE FUTURE OF PRIVATE HEALTHCARE IN ABU DHABI, AL AIN AND THE WESTERN REGION.
Following the merger of Mediclinic and Al Noor in 2016, all Al Noor medical facilities in Abu Dhabi, Al Ain and the Western Region will be renamed under the Mediclinic brand from 1 April 2017*.
Mediclinic promises to build on the foundations of excellence laid by Al Noor over the past 30 years, and deliver even greater levels of international quality healthcare to its patients. To make an appointment at any Mediclinic facility in Abu Dhabi, Al Ain or the Western Region, please call 800 264 22 (within UAE).
*Rebranding will be completed by March 2018.
#ExpertiseYouCanTrust
F L E E T
EMIRATES FLEET
Our fleet of 263 aircraft includes 248 passenger aircraft and 15 SkyCargo aircraft
AIRBUS A380-800 2500+ 17% All Emirates A380 aircraft are fitted with Wi-Fi, Mobile Phone and Data Roaming services. 16 (17%) of the A380s are now equipped with Live Television, with more coming soon.
95 in fleet. Up to 489-615 passengers. Range of 15,000km. L 72.7m x W 79.8m
BOEING 777-300ER This month: up to
2500+ 78% 104 (78%) of Emirates Boeing 777-300ERs are equipped with Live Television, Wi-Fi, Mobile Phone and Data Roaming services, with more coming soon.
133 in fleet. Up to 354-442 passengers. Range of 14,594km. L 73.9m x W 64.8m
BOEING 777-200LR 2500+
10 in fleet. Up to 266 passengers. Range of 17,446km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m
EMIRATES SKYCARGO
BOEING 777F
The most environmentally-friendly freighter operated today, with the lowest fuel burn of any comparably-sized cargo aircraft. Along with its wide main-deck cargo door which can accommodate oversized consignments, it is also capable of carrying up to 103 tonnes of cargo non-stop on 10-hour sector lengths.
13 in fleet. Range of 9,260km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m
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1 arriving
F L E E T
CONNECTIVITY AND ENTERTAINMENT SERVICES AVAILABLE
# Live Television
Wi-Fi
Mobile Phone GSM
Data Roaming GPRS
Channels of inflight entertainment
BOEING 777-300 1500+
9 in fleet. Up to 364 passengers. Range of 11,029km. L 73.9m x W 60.9m
AIRBUS A319 550+
1 in fleet. Up to 19 passengers. Range of 7,000km. L 33.84m x W 34.1m
The Emirates Executive Private Jet takes our exceptional service to the highest level to fly you personally around the world. Fly up to 19 guests in the utmost comfort of our customised A319 aircraft with the flexibility of private jet travel. Further information at emirates-executive.com
EMIRATES SKYCARGO
BOEING 747 ERF
This aircraft is capable of carrying up to 117 tonnes. The deck-side cargo door, with a height of approximately three metres, allows the uplift of oversized shipments that cannot be accommodated in the belly-hold of passenger aircraft. The nose door allows the carriage of long pieces.
2 in fleet. Range of 9,204km. L 70.6m x W 64.4m For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet
Aircraft numbers accurate at the time of going to press
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s t r e e t
k n o w l e d g e
the Guide
It’s our fIrst day In the cIty. What should We do? I would say hit the beach – but then I love the beach – and Melbourne has some of the best in Australia. Where’s the best place to grab some food? The diversity of people living in the city has increased so much and that has led to authentic restaurants with all kinds of cuisine. It’s hard to pin down one area but we now have some really great Vietnamese and Lebanese restaurants that are owned by natives of those countries, but who now call Melbourne home.
Where should We go for a nIght out? Without a doubt go to Flinders Lane. There are so many places to grab a drink but the key is to bar-hop and not spend the whole night in one place. hoW can We recuperate the next day? If you want to put some goodness back into your body there is a place called Matcha Mylkbar that serves plant-based food only. I am not a vegan but I love this place. What they can create with plants only is so innovative. It’s really worth checking out their menu.
Where’s best to spend the day WIth famIly? The Melbourne Museum is a great place to take the kids. It’s pretty much regarded as the best museum in Australia. We went there last year. You could easily spend a whole day there and still probably not get to see everything.
Why do you thInk melbourne Is consIstently voted the World’s most lIveable cIty? The quality of life, the weather, the beaches, the culture, the diversity, I could go on and on… the only way to properly find out is to come and visit.
hoW about If We Want to get aWay from the croWds? It’s not really getting out of the city but if you go to the Royal Botanic Gardens it’s so beautiful and peaceful that you’ll feel a million miles away from city life. When it’s a gorgeous day – which we get plenty of in Melbourne – just go and take a picnic and eat by the lake.
hoW about If We can only try one thIng In the cIty? It’s impossible for me to answer that because it depends what you are into. The great thing with Melbourne is that there is something for everybody. If you’re a beach bum, if you love culture, if you like to party, Melbourne has the answer.
Emirates operates three daily services to Melbourne. Choose from two nonstop daily services, or a flight which makes a stop in Singapore.
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AS TOLD TO: EMMA COILER; ILLuSTRATION: ROuI fRANCISCO
Norse god, ghostbuster and Hollywood’s current leading man of choice Chris hemsworth shows us around Melbourne