Open Skies | April 2017 by Motivate Media Group

ESCAPE THE RAT RACE

Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Ian Fairservice Gina Johnson gina@motivate.ae Mark Evans marke@motivate.ae Andrew Nagy andrew.nagy@motivate.ae Roui Francisco rom@motivate.ae Surajit Dutta surajit@motivate.ae Donnie Miguel donnie.miguel@motivate.ae Salil Kumar salil@motivate.ae Londresa Flores londresa@motivate.ae

Editor-in-ChiEf Managing PartnEr & grouP Editor EditoriaL dirECtor grouP Editor SEnior Editor digitaL / Print dESignEr digitaL aniMator VidEo Editor Sub Editor EditoriaL aSSiStant

ContributorS

Emma Coiler, Eugene Costello, Sarah Freeman, Ralph Mancao, John McGoldrick, Matt Mostyn, Sean Williams Cover: Catherine Simard

gEnEraL ManagEr ProduCtion S Sunil Kumar ProduCtion ManagEr R Murali Krishnan

ChiEf CoMMErCiaL offiCEr Anthony Milne anthony@motivate.ae

grouP SaLES ManagEr Michael Underdown michael@motivate.ae

SEnior SaLES ManagEr Shruti Srivastava shruti.srivastava@motivate.ae

SEnior SaLES ManagEr Michelle Quinn michelle.quinn@motivate.ae

EditoriaL ConSuLtantS for EMiratES Editor Manna Talib arabiC Editor Hatem Omar dEPuty Editor Catherine Freeman WEbSitE emirates.com

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134,109 copies July â&#x20AC;&#x201C; December 2016 Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE

‘The most enduring legacies a re bor n of the most colour f ul lives’

A LIFE IN COLOUR L O N D O N N E W YO R K AUSTR A LI A A ZER BA IJA N BA HR A IN CA NA DA CZECH R EPUBLIC ITA LY M A LTA QATA R SAUDI A R A BI A SW ITZER L A ND TH A IL A ND UA E UK UK R A INE USA

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E d i t o r ’ s

l E t t E r

ANDREW NAGY

ON the cOVer

Senior editor

scape. That’s what our cover advocates this month. Who knows, perhaps that’s what you’re doing right now. You’ve quit your job, sold your shoe collection and are sitting on board this flight, aimed roughly in the direction of some adventure. If that’s true, then I have nothing but admiration for you. But let’s be clear, this is no easy move to make. It takes real guts to leave the stability of your life behind and head on out into the unknown – but then the best decisions

stroll. We spoke to him after he returned from walking the Americas, and his story on p42 splices hidden Mayan pyramids with rival gangs, friendly locals with the most dangerous stretch of jungle in the world. It’s adventure at its most real. Of course it would be naïve to think that upping sticks for a life on the road is a realistic option for everyone. The reality is commitments, mor tgages, children; let’s not even get in to that credit card bill. It’s just not always possible. Thankfully, you can sometimes

perhaps yOu’Ve quit yOur jOb, sOld yOur shOe cOllectiON aNd are ON bOard this flight aimiNg fOr adVeNture always do. Catherine Simard quit a successful modelling career on what, to the outsider at least, could appear an absolute whim. The type of behaviour that’s going to leave you broke, fast. As it turned out it was a decision that set her on what she feels to be her intended life path. Head to p56 to see a journey that takes her up mountains, across lakes and inside volcano craters. Levison Wood probably had to hack away at vines to reveal his road ahead. The author, adventurer, writer and newly acclaimed TV phenomenon walks – that’s his thing. But this is no gentle afternoon

escape the rat race Catherine Simard quit her regular life to travel and photograph what she found. Her journey – and images – could spur you on to your own adventure.

find the most fantastic things going on at the end of your own street. A recent list of London’s best restaurants shunned big name chefs and Michelin Guide advice, to feature places that you won’t have to remor tgage the house to eat at. We feature three this month: one a classic chip shop, one a small Mediterranean restaurant, and another that’s, well, in a prison. Luckily, you don’t have to be an inmate to eat there. That would probably be a little bit too much adventure. Enjoy the issue.

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C O N T E N T S

FRONT

18 22 26 28 32 Experience

Stay

Food

Lunch

Neighbourhood

MAIN

42 49 56 Walk Of Life

The Real Meal Deal

An Alternate Reality

BRIEFING

66 70 72 74 76 Emirates News

Inside Emirates

Destination

Comfort

80 82 88 90 UAE Smart Gate

Route Map

Emirates Fleet | 15 |

The Guide

Customs & Visa Information

Carefully curated content focused on unique experiences Experience

Stay

Food

Lunch With

FRONT

E x p E r i E n c E

April 6-8

Middle east FilM and CoMiC Con Dubai, uaE

If you play a character like Thor, you become a regular visitor to these events, but I’ll always remember Comic Con in San Diego, 2014. We were there to promote The Avengers: Age of Ultron, and it was the first time the trailer had been previewed – even the cast hadn’t seen it, so we were as excited as the fans. It must have been the adrenaline but as we’re walking off-stage Chris Evans (Captain America) gave me a nudge so I just instinctively got him in a headlock – everybody loved it, they freaked out. But that’s the great thing about Comic

Con – you mix with fans from all over the country. The fact that this happens across the world is amazing. I’d love to make it out to Dubai for Comic Con one day; it’s definitely on the list. I’ve got Thor: Ragnorak this year, and I can’t wait. Something I think is really exciting about this movie is that Thor gets to interact a lot with Bruce Banner (The Hulk), which isn’t something we got to see much in The Avengers. All the promotional stuff hasn’t been decided yet, but I am sure there will be a Comic Con event at some point – at least I hope there is.

When you take on an iconic role like this, you’re always a little worried but, to be honest, the suppor t I’ve had from the fans has been amazing. And once you’re involved in this world it changes your life forever. Being par t of a franchise that includes The Avengers is so big that it throws you massively into the spotlight, I guess a little like Star Wars did for Harrison Ford and Carrie Fisher when I was growing up. I enjoy it though. This is a character I’ve pretty much committed 10 years of my life to, so you have to! mefcc.com

A convenient way to visit Dubai’s top attractions is with City Sightseeing’s hop-on hop-off bus. Learn more at citysightseeing-dubai.com

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iMAGE: GEtty

CHRiS HEMSWORtH tELLS OPEN SKiES HOW PLAyiNG tHOR HAS CHANGED HiS LiFE, AND WHy tHiS MONtH’S COMiC CON iS AN ABSOLUtE MUSt-SEE

E x p E r i E n c E

April 24-30

AfricAburn

Tankwa, SouTh africa

Traditional wisdom states that nothing can thrive in the deser t; it’s too hot, dry, remote. Life just cannot flourish there. But try telling that to the 9,000 people who gather every year in South Africa’s vast Tankwa Karoo National Park for AfricaBurn, the country’s official – albeit more intimate – edition of the legendary Burning Man in Nevada’s Black Rock Desert. Part social experiment, part fantasyland, at AfricaBurn the world is viewed through a dreamy filter of omnipresent dust and haze. Free spirits collide with surreal interactive art, structures and music, all in a

magical celebration of self-expression, community and love. As with the original in the US, the idea is to have a community built on selfreliance. It’s the chance to reinvent the world according to a simpler principle. Everybody’s welcome – a radical idea in itself considering the current climate – and the passing on of cultural knowledge is one of its guiding principles. Oh, and stuff gets burned, too. You can thank Larry Harvey and Jerry James for all this. On the summer solstice of 1986, a small bonfire ritual began on San Francisco’s Baker Beach. Harvey, James and a group of friends decided to burn a

9ft wooden man and a small wooden dog as an act of radical self-expression. Just four years on from that, 800 people were turning up and the event had turned into Burning Man. The idea eventually spread around the world. While getting to AfricaBurn might not be exactly easy, the trip is worth the hardship. This year’s official theme is Play, and you can even get involved in an official capacity if you like – this whole thing is built on participation. Add that to an ego- and hassle-free existence, at least for a few days, and you have desert life in it’s truest form. africaburn.com

emirates operates three daily flights between Cape town and dubai with its popular Boeing 777 aircraft. Last year emirates opened a new two-level premium lounge at the Cape town international airport, conveniently located in the international departures corridor.

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Words and image: Jenny HeWett

iF yoU’re LooKing For sometHing a LittLe diFFerent tHis montH, at aFriCaBUrn yoU’LL Find CommUnity, art, mUsiC and LiFe in tHe desert

S t a y :

C l a S S i C

Four SeaSonS Hotel AmmAn, JordAn

Words: nyree mcfarlane Images: four seasons The Four Seasons in Jordan is seen as the grand dame of Amman’s prestigious Fifth Circle neighbourhood. Just a brief wander around its corridors could see you brush shoulders with anyone from a suited and booted politician to perfectly coiffed celebrities. While you’ll most likely spend much of your time in the kingdom exploring its

historical sites – many of which are just a short drive from Amman – a leisurely stay at the hotel itself is something we strongly reccomend you consider. Swim a few laps in the stunning indoor pool, which remains dappled with sunlight throughout the winter, then book a table at the new French bistro La Capitale. You’ll struggle to find a better restaurant

anywhere in the neighbourhood. A final tip: be sure to book an airport transfer with the hotel. The Four Seasons has its own lounge in the arrivals terminal, and the driver will meet you at passport control to whizz you through the process in doublequick time, leaving you with more time to enjoy your visit. fourseasons.com/amman

Emirates has been flying to Jordan since 1986, and since then has carried over 4.1 million passengers. Today the airline operates three daily flights between Amman and Dubai.

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www.alvieromartini.it

S t a y : c o n t e m p o r a r y

Hotel Café Royal LONDON, UK

Words: andreW nagy Images: Hotel Café royal Once a meeting place for London’s high society, the Café Royal became the Hotel Café Royal after a four-year transformation in 2008. The Grade II listed building has proved a stylish stop-off ever since. The decor contains a nod to its illustrious past. Whether that’s in the ornate Oscar Wilde bar – once a regular haunt of the

playwright – or the classic French and British design of The Club at Café Royal, the exclusive private members’ club that hotel guests get access to, it all feels rather grand. The rooms and suites follow a similar theme and while there’s a real mix in style, it never seems out of step with the overall design. Add in the tech such as Bang &

Olufsen in-room entertainment and the ‘whisper quiet’ soundproofing and you’ve got classic and contemporary all wrapped in a prime location on Lower Regent Street. A final word of advice: if your budget will stretch to it, get the Dome penthouse. It’s worth it for the views of the city alone. hotelcaferoyal.com

Emirates serves London nine times daily, with six daily services to London Heathrow and three flights a day to London Gatwick.

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SLEEP IS LIFE’S GREATEST PLEASURE.

F o o d

MEERS

In a dusty town, just 90 minutes from Oklahoma City, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find a burger joint that carries legendary status WORDS Sean WilliamS

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f o o d

klahoma might not be on your bucket list for places to visit. It perhaps lacks strollable streets or predictable weather but one thing it delivers in style is an honest-togoodness burger. From greasy spoon Cafés like Nic’s Grill in its capital, Oklahoma City, to classics like Cattleman’s Steakhouse or western gems such as White Dog Hill, near the Texan border, you can head to any corner of the so-called Sooner State and find a homemade patty, the recipe for which has been passed down for generations. But let’s get one thing straight: there are burgers and there is Meers. Located around 90 minutes from Oklahoma City, this unincorporated community is also the name for the cramped store and restaurant that has been a local institution for 115 years. Today, it is little more than a row of wood and cement-fronted shacks that straddle a wooded T-junction. In fact, the only clues that you’re about to enter a landmark are the rows of cars perpetually parked outside or the queue of people that often snakes around the corner of the restaurant itself. Sometimes it can take an hour to get in. Cash is the only method of payment here and newspaper cuttings, old licence plates and Americana-rich trinkets cram the walls. Stuffed animal busts are an atavistic reminder that Meers is to veganism what the Sahara is to swimming pools. Gold fever swept the region in the late 19th century, alongside tales of abandoned Spanish mines and gold nuggets the size of shotgun shells. Hundreds flocked to its red dirt in search of a fortune.

The restaurant began life as a general store and printing house as the creation of a nearby nature reserve attracted up to 500 people to town. Just two decades later, as the rush died, only 75 people remained. Today the population is just six (plus, according to owners Joe and Margie Maranto, eight cats and a dog). But its commitment to gigantism has remained since the 1970s, when then-owner, Al Foster, decided it would be easier to make one huge burger than to make dozens of smaller ones for cowboys with fearsome appetites. Enter the Seismic burger. A seven-inch monster that arrives at your table in a pie dish cut into four quarter-pounder slices and resembling something Desperate Dan would be proud to call lunch. Each one is made from local longhorn cattle and topped with cheese, tomato and what might be the world’s feeblest looking slice of lettuce. Little wonder it borrows its name from a groundshaking act of nature. Pair that with some fries or fried pickles (this is Oklahoma: at its state fair you can eat fried butter – no joke) and you’ve enough to satisfy any hunger. Drinks are served in giant mason jars while dessert, should you make it that far, consists of a mountain of ice cream atop a massive hunk of peach or cherry cobbler, a local dish close in consistency to a British crumble. Even among the gigantism of southern American fare, Meers has managed to outdo its neighbours. It’s not just Meers that does the region proud, either. In decades gone by Oklahoma was little more than a dusty stop-off on a trip along Route 66. These days it is a bona fide foodies’ delight. North of the famous highway at El Reno is Eischen’s Bar, which is to fried chicken

what Meers is to burgers. Oklahoma City itself has enjoyed a purple patch in recent years, thanks in no small part to an oil and gas boom (one in three Oklahoman dollars comes from the industry). Some highlights include soul food diner Cheever’s, spit-and-sawdust bar and grill Powerhouse and hip eatery The Drake – which has somehow brought fresh oysters and seafood to a state that is the geographic centre of the US. But it’s beef for which Oklahoma is primarily known. And Meers, hidden as it may be, is the grandfather of a tradition that spreads way back past Oklahoma’s incorporation into the US. It’s no small journey so fill up the tank (and wallet – remember the no-card rule). But keep an empty stomach and you’ll be able to say you completed one of the region’s best known eating contests. In terms of size, Oklahoma is dwarfed by the neighbouring state of Texas. But then, everything is bigger there, so they say. They might not have been to Meers.

Emirates serves 12 destinations in the US – San Francisco, Los Angeles, Seattle, Chicago, Houston, Dallas, Washington DC, Orlando, Fort Lauderdale, Boston, New York and Newark.

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L u n c h

w i t h

AR RAHMAN Forget about the Oscars and the Golden Globes. For musician AR Rahman, it’s not the fame but the faith that really inspires him Words: Kaye Martindale iMaGes: Geoff BroKate

n his homeland of India, AR Rahman is famous. Not the type of entry-level fame that comes with winning a reality TV show or having a one-hit wonder but fame of the Michael Jackson or Marilyn Monroe variety. Not only does everybody here know him, but they love him to the extent that, in a country where music and movies reign supreme, the musician, composer, singer-songwriter and philanthropist has achieved an almost superhero status. The knock-on effect of this is clear, certainly to me today. While he might well be a regular here in Chennai’s Golden Dragon restaurant in the Taj Coromandel hotel, as I patiently wait for his arrival the staff are visibly flustered, just at the thought of his appearance. Even the fact he’s late is viewed through a prism of sympathetic awe. “A person of such genius mind is often preoccupied with loftier concerns than time and space,” says the restaurant manager. They prepare his personalised chopsticks. Once he arrives, we’re ushered quickly off to Rahman’s favourite private dining room and, as we take our seats, the 50-year-old’s discomfort at being fawned over is matched only by the manager’s enthusiasm in doing so. The musician’s life is the type of triumph-over-adversity story that Bollywood thrives on. The son of composer RK Shekhar, Rahman lived an ordinary middle-class existence in Chennai, until – when he was nine years old – his father died. “When he passed away my mother felt I should take on his legacy,” he says. “To be honest with you, at the time, I didn’t really know what that meant.” His father’s legacy was far from their only concern. Without the male breadwinner, life was hard in 1970s India. With four children to care for, Rahman’s mother Kareema made ends meet by hiring out her husband’s recording studio. When Rahman was 11, the budding musicican began touring with various orchestras to earn some extra money for the family. He eventually left school to concentrate on music. “My mother’s burden became my burden – a good burden, in a way. “I had to leave high school, which was very confusing at the time. Not the leaving school, exactly, but the effect

it might have on social status. I thought: ‘If I leave, will that make me a dropout?’ Thankfully, another door opened for me. “Usually parents will say: ‘Don’t take up music, become a doctor or lawyer’. That’s a typical Indian family response. But mine were the opposite. My mother could see the bigger picture and she didn’t care about anything else. It’s a good thing too, as it would have been a completely boring life without that decision.” With a natural leaning toward technology and an upbringing steeped in music, Rahman felt instinctively at home in the studio. In 1987, following more than 10 years of music scholarships and playing in bands, he began making advertising jingles. It was here that he began to formulate his own sound – he’s known for combining traditional Indian music with electro – and eventually saw music as more than just a way to support his family. Unfortunately, just as Rahman’s career was taking off, his home life was in crisis. His sister was suffering from a seemingly incurable disease that rocked the family’s Hindu faith to the core. Following the prayers and blessings of a Sufi pir (a spiritual guide) she made a full recovery and as a result, the entire family converted to Islam. “I came into the religion with a true spiritual sense. It transformed and brought something amazing out of me. I didn’t know anything about Islamic history, its luggage or baggage. I didn’t even see it in religious terms. I was simply blessed by the teacher. He never said: ‘You have to become a Muslim.’ ” The musician’s Hindu name was AS Dileep Kumar, one he had never really felt comfortable with and in 1991, under guidance, he took the name Rahman. The change brought new energy and with it, his first big break. In 1992, Rahman met the renowned Tamil film director Mani Ratnam. Ratnam loved his music and asked him to work on the score for his next film Roja. The film, and the soundtrack, were huge hits and in 1995, he wrote the songs for his first Hindi movie, Rangeela. The doors to Bollywood had been well and truly smashed open in just a few years. In 2003, Rahman made his first move into international movies, and in 2008 he worked with director Danny Boyle on Slumdog Millionaire. The film won him two Oscars and pop star status, thanks to the internationally successful

AFteR wORkinG with DAnny BOyle On SlumDOG milliOnAiRe, RAhmAn wOn twO OScARS AnD AchieveD pOp StAR StAtuS AlmOSt OveRniGht | 28 |

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song Jai Ho. Only the second Indian to win an Oscar, Rahman became a national treasure in his homeland and in big demand in Hollywood. “It was like one person having 11 plates to eat but you can only have one... it was a confusing period.” Success meant more time – and a home – in LA from around 2006, but by then it had become something of a fame-driven necessity. “There I have a free life,” he says. Although, even there, that freedom is buffered by the renown that comes with two Oscars, a Bafta, a Golden Globe and, in 2009, a place on the Time 100 most influential people list. It’s evident that Rahman struggles with the notion of success, and having to split what he does and where he lives. Nine years after Slumdog, he’s still spinning those plates. “I’m torn by the different things I’m doing,” he says. “I started as a Tamil composer, then moved to north India, which was huge. Then London, then the US. But people start to feel left out so I have to go back and do something for them. Then you realise that you’re only human. You have to make a choice, you have to ditch something, otherwise you’re neither here nor there.” Continuing to live with his feet in several worlds, Rahman has his pick of projects. He recently completed Muhammad: The Messenger of God, an Iranian epic based on the early life of the Prophet Muhammad. A film close to his heart, he feels it captures the essence of Islam as a religion of kindness. Still questioning where his own destiny will lead him, Rahman seems to be leaning more towards his homeland and he’s currently working on his own Hindi language movie. “When you’re making music you’re dependent on a script that comes to you. But what if I want to do certain things with the music and there’s no script that allows for it? That’s why I’m writing my own stories,” he says.

w i t h

After four years of planning and scriptwriting courses, Rahman’s story should start filming this year. Will he direct it? “I’m an introvert,” he says in answer. “If I see just 10 people I get, well...” One thing’s clear. While Rahman might have started out as a musician to support his family, his motivation is now very different. “After getting the money, the awards, the fame – faith is the only real foundation for me. Without faith, you always want to prove something, to show off to someone. I read somewhere that Michelangelo made his work for God and no one else. And that the folk musicians out in the rural areas, they play for just three or four people at a time and you know... they don’t want anything more than that.”

The Bill 1 x Lemon and coriander vegetable soup (US$7.10) 1 x Spinach, mushroom and goat cheese dim sum (US$7.10) 1 x Artichoke hearts, broccoli and pine nut dumpling (US$7.10) 1 x Lotus Stem Honey chilli (US$10.85) 1 x Three-way tofu in tobanjan sauce (US$12.35) 1 x Stir-fried seasonal Chinese greens (US$11.20) 1 x Braised broccoli (US$11.20) 1 x Stir-fried rice (US$7.50) 1 x Orange juice (US$3.75)

Total: US$78.15

With 176 flights a week to nine Indian destinations – Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, Kolkata, Bengaluru, Ahmedabad, Hyderabad, Kochi and Thiruvananthapuram – Emirates connects India to the airline’s network of more than 150 destinations.

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N e i g h b o u r h o o d

PâQUIS, Geneva, SwItzerland

nce an open pasture for grazing cattle and part of the town of Petit-Saconnex, Pâquis is now one of Geneva’s foremost bohemian and eclectic neighbourhoods. Over a century later, there are still a few green pockets such as Parc Beaulieu and Parc des Cropettes but no cows roam its picturesque streets. The district, or quartier, is now firmly rooted within the city parameters, bordered by Parc Mon Repos and Lac Leman, Rue des Alpes and Rue de Lausanne. Pâquis is defined by two key areas, which juxtapose grittiness and wealth. The older area (the shabby) begins near the train station, while its manicured, moneyed area (the chic) flanks the waterfront. The lake’s history of luxury travel started when distinguished families would build their summer villas on its banks. Now, grand dames like Hotel D’Angleterre, historic President Wilson and Beau Rivage keep up appearances. Best explored on foot, you can stroll the length of the promenade – beginning at Pont du Mont Blanc and continuing to the Park Mon Repos – taking in flower gardens, notable statues like the Brunswick monument and lakeside sculptures along the way. To soak up the district’s more bohemian character, you’ll need to head to the bustling labyrinth of streets wedged behind the city’s glitzy waterfront. And make sure you bring an appetite. This area is a hub for ethnic cuisine where you can graze on just about anything from Moroccan tagine to Spanish tapas, Lebanese mezze to Senegalese fare. Fast food joints selling tacos, Turkish kebabs and falafel are ten-a-penny, as are shisha cafes, which take up residence on Rue de Monthoux. If you walk far enough, you’ll find a plethora of antique dealers, trinket shops, second-hand book stores, vintage stores and lively bistros to explore. Sometimes, however, you just want to sit in the sun and relax. Pâquis is good for that, too. | 32 |

N e i g h b o u r h o o d

Words ANd IMAGEs: sArAH FrEEMAN

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N e i g h b o u r h o o d

In The AreA ( e ig h t -Minut e wa lk )

Shop + See

DOWNTOWN The brainchild of former human rights and counter-trafficking worker Giji Gya, and luxury brand connoisseur Christophe, Downtown is the place to go for high-end vintage threads in the city. Promoters of slow fashion, the philanthropic duo are committed to working with brands with traceability, and the majority of their 1,500 items are certified as fair trade. You can shop up a socially responsible storm with Veja sneakers made from natural Brazilian rubber, organic cotton Nudie jeans (that adhere to strict codes of ethical manufacturing) and Scandinavian brand Filippa K, which recycles everything from its tags to transit bags. Next door, sister shop Uptown is overflowing with pre-loved designer goods. Sift through Aussie-born Gigi’s carefully curated rails for second-hand steals like an Hermès electric blue toolbox bag, a vintage Valentino 1970s yellow silk dress and a Chanel rose tweed jacket. Rue de Monthoux 32, 1201 Genève | +41 22 364 62 56 | downtowngeneve.com

Emirates operates two daily flights to Geneva with the Boeing 777.

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Palais wilson

Once a luxury hotel and now an emblem of peace, this historic waterfront building is the office of the United Nations’ high commissioner for human rights. RUe des PâqUis 52, 1201 GeNève, switzeRlaNd

N e i g h b o u r h o o d

in thE arEa

Eat Pizza + WorshiP

( s e v e n-mi nut e wa lk )

Le ScandaLe This vast two-floor tri-space bar, restaurant and club is a magnet for the young and trendy. Don’t be fooled by its gingham tablecloths or open pizza kitchen that flank the entrance.This is not your average cosy Italian joint. A mash-up of retro ’50s furnishings, industrial decor and enormous disco balls, the interior is as eclectic as the music it plays, which span the genres from funk to folk.There’s even a piano in the unisex toilets, should you get the urge.The former tinsmithing workshop has two resident DJs, live music at the weekends and also hosts regular art exhibitions. Its straightforward Mediterranean plates of pasta, salads, bruschetta and tapas are best washed down with a glass of the local vintage, harvested from the banks of Lake Geneva. Alternatively, dive into the never-ending cocktail list before throwing some shapes on the subterranean dance floor. Rue de Lausanne 24, 1201 Genève | +41 22 731 83 73 | lescandale.ch

sainte trinité ChurCh

This pink granite, spherical church is just as striking inside as outside, with 12 multi-coloured windows illuminating its retro-futuristic interior. Rue FeRRieR 16, 1202 Genève, +41 22 732 79 25

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N e i g h b o u r h o o d

In the area ( 13-Mi nut e wa lk )

sleep + stare

Hotel D’Angleterre Behind the elegant, listed facade of this five-star boutique (which dates back to 1872) is an exuberant interior almost as impressive as the superlative lake views. The hotel’s 39 individually designed rooms and six suites are an eclectic mix of English manor house decor and Louis XV, peppered with antique furniture. Original artworks by the likes of Salvador Dali, Marc Chagall and Georges Braque grace the walls, while bespoke leopard-print carpets pay homage to the South African owners’ heritage. Art lovers shouldn’t miss Sem’s belle epoque Parisian caricatures in the first floor’s Petit Salon. Sip on vintage South African reds (bottled at the owner’s vineyard, no less) in the hotel’s award-winning Windows restaurant, then head for a whisky tasting in the colonial-style basement bar, Leopard. The Out of Africa styling is reinforced by animal hide chairs, safari etchings and lifesize bronze leopard statues. Quai du Mont-Blanc 17 | 1201 Genève | +41 22 906 55 55 | dangleterrehotel.com

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artgenève

Get an alfresco art fix, views of Mont Blanc and a waterside stroll in one hit with Artgenève’s collection of contemporary sculptures that straddle the lake shores. QuAi Président Wilson And QuAi du Mont-BlAnc, +41 22 761 11 1

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BARTABAS: AN EQUESTRIAN SHOW Mar 23 - 25, 27 - 28 Al Jahili Fort, Al Ain visitalain.ae

AL AIN CULTURAL PROGRAMME Jan - May Multiple Venues visitalain.ae

There’s so much happening in Abu Dhabi all year round. The emirate’s packed events calendar is filled with a diverse selection of world-class art, culture, heritage, literary and entertainment experiences organised by Abu Dhabi Tourism & Culture Authority for all the family to enjoy. abudhabievents.ae

A collection of stories from around the world An Alternate Reality

Walk Of Life

The Real Meal Deal

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The walk of life

words: sarah freeman images: levison wood | 42 |

A journey on foot from

Mexico to Colombia,

through eight countries

and the most dangerous

stretch of jungle in

the world. Levison Wood

takes some stopping…

“Bedtime reading?” asks Levison Wood rather quizzically. “I’m usually spending that time negotiating with a tribal chief as to where I can camp for the night.” For a man who recently returned from trekking 2,897 kilometres across the length of Central America, it’s a fair enough reaction. When you’re traversing some of the most difficult terrain in the world, a book at bedtime is probably a luxury you rarely consider. For now, however, we’re safely outside the unpredictability of his natural habitat – not scaling mountains or slashing at jungle vegetation but sat in his London publisher’s office: a different type of crazy. Wood is a writer, explorer, seasoned walker and recently crowned television phenomenon. He’s also a man with a looming deadline and [at the time of our chat] has four chapters of a highly anticipated new book still to write. As a survival expert, he recognises the danger signs only too well. An irate publisher can be as feisty as a venomous snake. The final chapters of his journey from Mexico to Colombia will come from within his “very clichéd study, with wood panelling and lots of knick-knacks on the walls”. Like any selfrespecting explorer he keeps an old-school travel journal and tries to spend half an hour scribbling notes at the end of each day – not easy when you’re lying in a hammock with a head torch that’s about to die. Wood made his name walking the length of the river Nile in 2014 and then followed it up by trekking 2,735 kilometres across the Himalayas from Afghanistan to Bhutan in 2015. His foray into television was accidental. A chance meeting with a TV editor led to three primetime series airing on Channel 4 in the UK, amassing a legion of fans in the process. He films much of the footage himself, rendering a raw style and down-to-earth likeability that has clearly struck a chord with audiences around the world. | 43 |

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But while he might have achieved fame for showing life in its extreme, Wood is a man of simple pleasures. Next time you watch his latest show or read the accompanying book Walking The Americas, consider this: yes, he’s probably facing a near-death scenario on some treacherous terrain, but chances are he’s thinking about a good old-fashioned Sunday roast dinner. It keeps him going through the hard times. “Food in Central America wasn’t so enthralling,” he says. “It was great in Mexico, then gradually deteriorated the further south we got. After a while you get bored of eating fried plantain and beans.” But while the food might have been a struggle, the adventure didn’t disappoint. “The single best day we had was probably diving into a cenote in Mexico,” he says of the spectacular underwater caverns that transport swimmers and divers into a subterranean world. “It was just amazing.” While water brought Wood’s best day, it was also the source of his worst and a confrontation with his biggest fear: sharks. “In-between Mexico and Belize we had to take a little fishing boat across a stretch of water. As we were going, we looked beneath the surface and saw hundreds of sharks – nursery sharks as big as this table,” he gestures, arms outstretched. “I was with Alberto (his friend and guide) and Neil, the cameraman, demanded we jump in to film it… so we did. It was one of the scariest moments of my life.” You have to look to the military to discover the root of Wood’s lust for adventure. He grew up listening to his grandfather’s war stories. They made him realise the world was slightly bigger than his home of Stoke-on-Trent in the UK. After studying history at Nottingham Trent University, he joined the British army – alongside Prince Harry – as an officer at Sandhurst and then served as

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a paratrooper in Afghanistan in 2008. Wood’s father – a geology and geography teacher – was in the Territorial Army and a childhood spent camping in the Peak District and doing DIY expeditions aged 14 was the clincher. When quizzed on his earliest travel memory, he replies

with an almost boyish enthusiasm, “Going to Greece at the age of four with my parents. We stayed in this grotty little apartment and they would send me down to the grocery store every day for the shopping – I had to order it all in Greek.” Luckily for us, his travel horizons expanded beyond the Hellenic Republic and luckily for him, his guides now take care of all the local lingo. There’s always been a romantic notion attached to exploration. From the

The new breed of explorer has redefined the terms and conditions. No longer is this exclusively the domain of the world’s elite | 44 |

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Left: Wood has made his name exploring on foot Below: a Kuna village on the Caribbean coast

Portuguese explorers of the 15th century discovering new lands to Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay conquering Everest in 1953, it was seen as a bold and noble pursuit – despite the fact that much early exploration was anything but. However, the new breed of explorer has redefined the terms and conditions. From Bear Grylls to Bruce Parry, Ed Stafford to Wood, no longer is this exclusively the domain of the world’s elite. All you need now is a willingness to move out of your comfort zone. But while Wood is part of a changing of the guard, his role models remain classic. A fan of explorers such as Sir Ranulph Fiennes and John Blashford-Snell (who famously crossed the Darién Gap in 1971), he also draws inspiration from the writers Eric Newby and Richard Burton, the latter known for making a journey to Mecca in disguise at a time when Europeans were forbidden on pain of death, and also for being one of the first Europeans to visit the Great Lakes of Africa in search of the source of the Nile. Snell’s success in surviving the perilous Darién Gap – a vast swathe of jungle that joins Panama and Colombia – bolstered Wood’s confidence on his final leg of the expedition, but it was still the part of the journey he was dreading most. The break in the 48,000km-long PanAmerica Highway has famously defeated travellers for centuries and it is said that if a Fer-de-lance snake doesn’t kill you, a drug-trafficking gang probably will, but Wood had a somewhat soggier problem. | 45 |

Above: walking the Pan-America Highway Below: Wood’s guide and friend, Alberto Caceres

Known to be one of the wettest places on Earth, it’s not the type of environment you want to take expensive filming kit. “Literally every single camera that we had broke. We had seven of them and they all died. At one point we were down to using an iPhone.” It wasn’t just the terrain that offered problems either. These can be dangerous lands where good intentions mean little and expert counsel is a necessity. When it came to crossing over two rival gangs’ districts in the city of San Pedro Sula (a place with the highest murder rates on

record between 2013 and 2015), Wood called on divine intervention. “We got very unique access to walk through Rivera Hernandez (a notorious gang-occupied neighbourhood) by basically getting the local community leader – a pastor – to take us through the area himself. He’s good friends with the gang bosses, who are in jail, so he made a call and got us special permission to walk through safely.” It’s stories like this that reveal much about Wood. You get the impression that he’s not really interested in sticking flags on peaks or hunting for his dinner

(he’ll leave that to Grylls). Instead, he’s motivated by the conversations he has along the way; the chance encounters that occur when travelling on foot. “It’s absolutely the best way to meet people,” he says. It’s also how he arrives at his unofficial USP – the uncanny ability to show the places we might fear in a completely different light. “Don’t get me wrong,” he admits, “there’s no smoke without fire. I went to Central America and I saw gangs and drugs and more but in among that there were also incredible stories of hope

Travellers beyond New Jersey and the Tri-State Area can take advantage of Emirates’ partnerships with JetBlue Airways, Alaska Airlines, and Virgin America, allowing for connections to and from more than 100 destinations across the US, Caribbean and Mexico.

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A day spent in El Petén – notorious bandit territory – was counterbalanced by the discovery of some hidden Mayan pyramids in a jungle in Mexico

Above: Border Service protects the Darién from traffickers and rebels Below: the pyramids of Yaxha, Guatemala

and excitement.” The perfect example being a day spent in El Petén – one of Guatemala’s most notorious bandit territories. It was counterbalanced by the discovery of some hidden Mayan pyramids in a jungle in Mexico. You won’t find them on any map and only a few locals know about them. Those days make any hardship worthwhile. As for the future, his adventure is strictly curtailed for the moment. He might squeeze in a holiday if he can – not avoiding drug cartels or dodging snakes but “lying on a beach or a city break. Anything more extreme would be a bit like a busman’s holiday.” As we part ways, Wood hints that his next expedition might not even be on foot. “I don’t want to wear the legs out,” he laughs. But while no quest he takes on would really come as a surprise, something tells me that he won’t be hanging up his hiking boots just yet. Walking The Americas (Hodder & Stroughton) by Levison Wood is out now

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Images by rick John McGold In a city boasting 79 Michelin stars, Tripadvisor’s 2017 list of its top London restaurants might just surprise you. Forget about going to Gordon’s place, and never mind a meal Heston’s… here’s where you should really eat in the city

ondon’s thriving restaurant scene has come a long way in the past few decades. In the 1970s, the height of sophistication could be summed up by a visit to a trattoria or bistro, some redand-white checked tablecloths and a candle shoved into a hard straw-encased Chianti bottle. If you were feeling brave, you’d order daring foreign dishes such as spaghetti bolognese, boeuf bourguignon or cheese fondue. If you were playing it safe, you’d go

for melon or prawn cocktail, followed by a steak so well done you could have worn it as a shoe. Wartime rationing had left a decades-long, dank odour over British food – so even this one-armed, casual embrace of European cuisine was something to be welcomed. In post-war Britain, the influential British food writer Elizabeth David was determined to replace the smell of overboiled cabbage with the vibrancy of the Med diet, and her 1950 bestseller A Book of

Mediterranean Food has never gone out of print since. As a result, David is widely credited with changing British attitudes to food forever. Fast-forward to 2017, and the UK scene couldn’t be more different. When it comes to fine dining, London is now one of the world’s great gastronomic destinations, with a total of 79 Michelin stars. The only city in Europe with more is Paris. It’s probably those statistics that make the annual TripAdvisor list of London’s

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top ten restaurants, so surprising. You won’t find too many celebrity chefs here, and only one spot for a place granted star-status by the Michelin Guide (the Ledbury in the Notting Hill area has two). Instead, the order of the day is good food, honestly served and reasonably priced, with most being neighbourhood stalwarts in the suburbs as opposed to being slap-bang in the expensive districts of Mayfair, Knightsbridge or Soho. We picked out three that you should visit and savour…

Liman iman is found at one end of the bustling Chapel Market Street in Islington.The area hasn’t really changed much in 30 years, and you can buy anything here from clothes to household cleaners, cheeses to mobile phones. It’s unashamedly noisy – this is a market trader’s street, after all – so when you reach the far end and arrive at Liman, a modest but attractively-fronted bistro dwarfed by its brutalist concrete police station neighbour, it feels like an oasis of calm. Liman Mediterranean Kitchen – to give it its full title – is simple but homely. Inside, it’s all exposed brickwork and sailing paraphernalia (liman means port in Turkish). The restaurant narrows at the far end to make space for the food prepping area and an enormous charcoal grill. It’s fun just watching the team at work, and it also means that all food is prepared and cooked right in front of you. Testament to its popularity, we arrived at 6pm on a Friday, and by just 7pm the place was full and turning away walk-ins. Booking ahead is strongly advised.

The sTory The brainchild of Kurdish husband-and-wife team Niyazi and Berivan Tezik, Liman opened in June last year and specialises in Turkish and Middle Eastern dishes. Niyazi has worked at the prestigious Sofra in Mayfair, an upmarket Turkish restaurant, as well as at the Royal Albert Hall. Meanwhile, wife Berivan charms the

you won’t find too many Michelin stars on the list. The order of the day is good food, honestly served and reasonably priced, with most being neighbourhood stalwarts as opposed to big name establishments

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clientele front of house, but she’s also a pastry chef in her own right. “My brother pushed us to do this,” explains Nyazi. He has a restaurant in Turkey near Ankara, and he lent us the money we needed to get started (‘he’s a very good man, interjects Bervian with a smile). But it was difficult at first to understand the UK

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market, to learn what people want and expect.” Location was crucual. They looked hard for the right place to set up shop. It needed to be somewhere they could afford the rent at, but still be in a location where business would be steady. It’s open all day, every day. It’s hard work. But after such a great response in only ten months, the

struggle appears to have been more than worth it. “We’re far busier than we ever expected,” explains Bervian with a smile. “We have TripAdvisor to thank for this, and we’re so happy to be number one. It’s such a great success story for us – but now we are stressed again... this time about keeping our place at the top.”

The food really is spectacular – great Middle Eastern-inspired dishes cooked to perfection on a sizzling grill under your nose, with super-fresh meze prepared beside it. The starters are a meal on their own, with standouts including cacik, a cucumber yoghurt dip with plenty of fresh mint and dill and a subtle kick from crushed garlic (US$4.75), patlican soslu, translated as “aubergine napolitana”, a rich and smoky assembly of aubergine and tomato with some fire from pepper, garlic and onion (US$4.75), and the perennial favourite hummus, served with optional cubes of lamb (US$5.15), all of which come with plenty of flatbread to dip. For a hot starter, you should try the excellent falafel with a hint of coriander, served freshly fried with a layer of tahini on top (US$6.75), the perfectly formed borek of salty feta cheese (US$5.90) and – the standout dish – a duo of mucver, creamy courgette fritters with potato, egg, carrot

and feta cheese, pan fried in flour batter and with a taste of mint and parsley (US$7.20). If you can handle a main, there are two that really star. The pirzola (lamb chops), a generous trio of meat the size of a small hand, each is cooked just as you like it on the charcoal grill. It’s well seasoned and served with salad Middle Eastern-style with lots of fresh mint that offers a nice counterpoint to the smoky meatiness (US$15.65). Secondly, you’ll find a great Iskender-style dish of lamb beyti, grilled minced lamb served wrap-style, pressed into diamond wedges of flatbread (lavash) and on a plate of yoghurt and tomato sauce (US$15.30).

60 Penton Street, ISlIngton, london n1 9PZ; +44 (0)20 3583 6442; lIman.co.uk; 11am to 11Pm Seven dayS a week

The Golden Chippy reenwich is one of the most historic areas of London, and famously home to the Royal Observatory, the beautifully restored Cutty Sark – the world’s sole surviving tea clipper – and any number of handsome Georgian properties and buildings from around the early 18th century. You’ll find The Golden Chippy down the High Road away from the most genteel part of Greenwich and towards the distinctly more urban Deptford. It’s a classic London chippy, on a street corner but with a covered terrace with patio heaters for those who want to eat their food on-site. We visited at 4pm on a weekday and there was a constant stream of customers. By 7pm, a steady trickle had become an unstoppable flow.

The sTory The man in charge at The Golden Chippy is Chris Kanizi, 57, a Turkish Cypriot who came to London in 1977 to study medicine. He gave it up in 1979 when, “Mrs Thatcher put the fees for studying medicine up from US$1,830 to US$5,500, so I became an expert in operating on fish instead of humans,” he says with a hearty chuckle that shakes his bear-like frame. “These hands have been cooking for 40 years,” he says, with no little pride. In 2016, TripAdvisor had The Golden Chippy at number one, and the business exploded from

there. “It’s crazy,” laughs Kanizi. “Last year we had one group of 67 people who came here from Holland. We had to do it in three sittings and put tables in the road for them – they’re back again in April, only with 70 people this time. We’ve had people from the US, New Zealand, Paris… you name it. Last Sunday, we had a group of 31 from Oman who came here to be fed. They Google: best fish and chips in London, and up we come.” There are two reasons for his success. One is the quality, “Our fish comes from a supplier we’ve used for years. They don’t

buy from [London fish market] Billingsgate – they have deals with individual skippers of fishing boats and will buy up the whole catch. Last week, we had cod from Hull and haddock from Scotland…

it changes according to what’s fresh and what’s good.” The second reason? “That’s the magic ingredient,” laughs Kanizi. “Lots of TLC… and a little bit of beer.”

Emirates airline operates 133 flights per week from Dubai to the UK– six services a day to Heathrow, three daily to London Gatwick and Manchester, three per day to Birmingham and Glasgow and a daily service to Newcastle.

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But while beer is an essential ingredient in the batter for many, this place caters for all dietary requirements. If you’re Muslim, he has a version of his batter without the booze, and he’s stopped frying in groundnut oil because of the growing awareness of people

with nut allergies; these days, he only uses fresh rapeseed oil. Incredibly, he’s even perfected a batter for those on gluten-free diets such as coeliac sufferers, “I make a lovely batter using rice flour, not wheat – it works out very well, with a good texture.”

There’s often a touch of snobbery when it comes to fish and chips in the UK. Northerners maintain that you can only get a decent serving in their half of the country, while those from down south are fiercely proud of what they can do with a fryer. At The Golden Chippy you’ll see burgers, pies, and fried chicken all on the menu, but this place is all about the fish and chips and, geography aside, the result is outstanding. Expect a handsome piece of cod served fresh from the fryer, golden, crisp batter that’s light and tasty, with fresh flakes of white meat inside that slides off the fork. The chips are perfect – cut

chunky and drowned in salt and vinegar (albeit on request). Add some tartar sauce – essentially mayonnaise sharpened with mustard or vinegar, lemon juice, capers and chopped gherkins. After that, you’re left with one of the finest examples of the art you could ever wish to try, all for a very reasonable US$8.95.

62 Greenwich hiGh road, London Se10 8LF; +44 (0)20 8692 4333; theGoLdenchippy.com; 11am to 11pm monday to Saturday, noon to 11pm Sunday

The Clink he Clink is a charity that assists offenders coming to the end of their sentence by training them to work as kitchen and front-of-house staff in a real restaurant contained within HMP Brixton. Set behind the newly gentrified area of Brixton Hill, the prison was built in 1820 and is arranged in a halfoctagonal plan, with the octagonal governor’s house at the centre. This is not your typical restaurant and so, for security reasons, you’ll need to book in advance and bring proof of identity – no walk-ins here. On the day of your reservation, you’re kept in a hut at the main gates until your dining group is present and correct. With a whirr and a hum, the enormous gate slides open and you’re ushered into a small tunnel with a locked gate at the other end, while the main gate is locked into place behind you. A guard with a sniffer dog walks up and down the line of would-be diners, sniffing inquisitively amongst the crowd before the inner gate finally pulls back to allow you into the walled compound of the prison. Once there, you’ll find the restaurant inside the governor’s house. It’s a tastefully designed bistrostyle space with contemporary touches such as stacked-slate-style walls, muted ochres and browns, and lampshades that change colour from turquoise to purple to blue to green. There’s a bar and cocktail waiters – although all servings are, naturally, non-alcoholic. The plastic cutlery is a further, gentle reminder that you’re eating in a fully working prison.

The sTory The Clink Charity started in 2009, when Alberto Crisci, then catering manager at HMP High Down in Surrey, hit on the idea of training offenders nearing the end of their sentences so they | 54 |

would have a trade upon release. It gives people a real chance for a fresh start, and many restaurants in the UK have signed up to support The Clink’s “graduates”. HMP Brixton signed up to

the programme, and opened its doors to the public in February 2014. The charity now runs four restaurants in four prisons, the others found in Cardiff, High Down, and Styal.

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With a whir and a hum, the enormous gate slides open and you’re ushered inside, while a sniffer dog moves inquisitively among would-be diners. this isn’t your average restaurant

The menu here wouldn’t look out of place in a modern European fine dining restaurant. That means the price point is a little higher than most, but it’s fair and reasonable for the level of cooking and the quality of the produce. While starters such as savoury baked cheesecake, cranberry relish and thyme shortbread (US$8.50), and tea smoked duck and winter salad (US$7.60) both catch the eye. The highlight of the five dishes is a classic British option of potted brown shrimps with paprika croutons, chicory salad and lemon dressing (US$8.50). Choosing a main course is a struggle, with six dishes that would satisfy even the pickiest of food blogger. Standouts include the duo of venison, seared loin and cottage pie, cavolo nero light pan juice, (US$19.20), and the poached loin of cod with curried cockle broth and Jerusalem artichoke,

(US$18.25). However the braised ox cheek with leek and potato gratin and seasonal vegetables (US$17.70) is sensational. A huge hunk of meat that has been slowcooked to the point it flakes off your fork; combined with the leek and potato gratin and heritage vegetable, it feels like the ultimate in comfort food. For dessert, go classic with Cox apple and comice pear tarte tatin, clotted cream, or decadent, with chocolate mousse, walnut praline and marshmallow ice cream (US$7.90).

HMP Brixton; JeBB Avenue, London SW2 5xK; +44 (0)20 8678 9007; tHecLinKcHArity.org; BreAKfASt, 8.15AM to 10.30AM, LuncH 12 to 3PM, Afternoon teA 2PM to 4PM MondAy to fridAy

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alternate reality Quitting your day job to travel the world is something we all talk about, but rarely have the courage to go through with. PhotograPher catherine simard did, and it changed her life | 56 |

y life has always been governed by instinct, it’s just the way I’m wired but, naturally, that can sometimes be a problem. Perfect example: after finally getting the grades I needed to go to medicine school, I decided to change direction completely and pursue my love of fashion instead. I was a model for 10 years and a stylist and art director for three. At the time, I was living in a nice apartment in Montreal city centre – one of the most creative and diverse cities in the world. Life was good. Then one day I woke up to the realisation that my job just wasn’t bringing me any joy or excitement anymore. I’d had enough of it; become lost in the superficial values, perfectionism and stress of it all. I was craving something that just felt more real. So when a friend asked me to join him on his next trip to Australia, it took me just one day to decide I would go. Within two weeks I’d left my apartment, sold all my furniture and designer clothes, bought a backpack and a one-way ticket to Australia. Three weeks after making my decision I was on the plane with no plans, travelling with somebody I had only known for a few weeks, but with a strong desire to reconnect with my true self. I’d left home with an almost empty bank account so I needed an income as soon as possible. I had a working holiday visa so decided to work for a couple of weeks in each region I visited. I picked fruit in Tasmania, worked on a farm in Queensland and in cafes across the country. The jobs funded side trips to New Zealand, the landscape can often be quite similar. I decided I would give myself the Indonesia and Hawaii. That was my goal of translating what I saw into a photography project. life for nearly two years. The shooting process is difficult. Over-planning shoots can kill It was a trip to Tongariro National the creativity but not planning at all can mean you miss some great Park in New Zealand that changed opportunities. I try to find a balance between both and let my instinct everything for me. Located on the do the rest. There are many treks I’ve been on that involved more North Island, it was while hiking the than 30km of hiking just to get one shot while others just need me Tongariro Crossing that it happened. to step out of the car to get something amazing. That’s why when I’m I’ll never forget the feeling I got after photographing for leisure, I focus on the experience first. If I’m happy finally reaching the summit. It was with the pictures then it’s a bonus. Most of the time, though, just sitting such a beautiful sight that it awoke back and appreciating the scenery helps eliminate the stress of getting something inside me – a desire to the shot. It makes me more creative and leads to something better. photograph and capture this beauty I’ve been travelling for two-and-a-half years now. I’ve been to Hawaii, around the world. Australia, Indonesia, western and eastern Canada and, finally, New My quest to visit every national Zealand, where I’m based today. park started in western Canada Through my adventures, I’ve learned that everything that has on a solo trip. I was road-tripping happened to me has nothing to do with luck. It’s a direct consequence with no real destination in mind. I of my own thoughts and decisions. Now that I’m more aware of that, was sleeping in my rental car, going I choose my thoughts carefully. And while deciding to leave the safety on hikes with people I didn’t know, of a normal life and pursue your passion can be scary, your fears with my only real desire to live in can always be overcome. For me, the feeling that you’re not really in the moment and explore. I found the place you need to be is far worse. The following images are my that each national park has its own favourite from my journey so far. mood and unique beauty – even if | 57 |

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If I’m on the road, I generally like to wake up early and catch the sunrise. Then I go to a coffee shop for a couple of hours to edit pictures, respond to emails and manage social media accounts. By early afternoon I’ll be on a hike to shoot some products for clients and watch the sunset. I’ll finish my day with some astrophotography if the weather’s good. I don’t sleep a lot because I’d rather be tired but wake up on top of a mountain and get some shots than spend my time in bed. When I’m doing what I love it really energises me – then I don’t need sleep. Download The Emirates App – available for iPhone, iPad and Android. Your personal journey planner makes it easy to view and arrange your trips when you’re on the go. Designed to complement the iPhone app, there’s also an Emirates App for Apple Watch.

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This shot was taken on my second ascent of the Tongariro Crossing â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the place my love for photography began. As the sun was rising, orange rays of light hit the volcanic steam, making the whole scene look fiery. In the excitement I grabbed my backpack and went down to explore the Emerald Lakes and tree water-filled craters.

North Island, New Zealand

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North Island, New Zealand

I got this shot on my 27th birthday. After four hours of hiking with all my camping gear, I finally arrived at the small pond where, if the weather allows it, will reflect Mount Taranaki perfectly. As it was, clouds were covering the mountain and the wind was blowing hard. I sat and I waited. I asked the universe to show me the peak, just for my special day. An hour later the sky cleared and the wind dropped. I couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t believe it. I shot the mountain non-stop until I exhausted my batteries. This was by far the best birthday gift I have ever received. | 60 |

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North Island, New Zealand

This picture was taken on my first photo mission in New Zealand. It marked the start of my road trip around the country. The mixture of the stars and these pastel colours is usually what I’m chasing at every location. The moon was the perfect complement to this magical scene. This is the most liked shot on my Instagram account – @mydetoxtravel – to date. | 61 |

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Quebec, Canada

Both these shots were taken in Quebec, Canada. During my trip, I decided to go back home to see my family. Returning after two years of travelling was very challenging at first but after a couple of days I learned to appreciate the scenery and decided to explore my hometown just as I would any other country. It was autumn, and every morning a thick fog would cover the lake, creating a beautiful mood. For my whole stay I woke up early to catch the first light and get in my canoe. One day I decided I had to freeze this moment forever with a self-portrait. This was probably the most peaceful, noise-free and crisp morning I have ever experienced. Follow Catherineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s journey via Instagram on @mydetoxtravel | 62 |

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Quebec, Canada

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Smile all the stay in the Maldives

Your fantasy of a laid-back, desert island paradise is about to come true. The freshly-renovated LUX* South Ari Atoll brings an entirely original vibe of coastal, beach house chic holiday. Yes, it’s the Maldives - but not as you know it. MAURITIUS

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Essential news and information from Emirates New route to Phnom Penh

Inside Emirates

Route Map

BRIEFING

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new rOuTe TO PhnOm Penh Anybody requiring extra reasons to explore Southeast Asia can take inspiration from Emirates newest route, as the airline will begin service to Phnom Penh in Cambodia from July 1. The new daily service will depart from Dubai to Yangon, before continuing to Phnom Penh. This will enable passengers from Yangon to travel to Phnom Penh

and vice versa. Emirates will be the only airline with a direct service between the two cities. The launch of the daily services to the Cambodian capital will coincide with the introduction of a direct, non-stop route between Dubai and Hanoi, with Emirates passengers travelling there no longer stopping in Yangon before reaching the

Vietnamese capital. Outbound flight EK388 will depart Dubai at 09.15 and arrive in Yangon at 17.25. It will then depart Yangon at 18.55, before arriving at Phnom Penh at 21.25. The departure time of flight EK388 from Dubai connects with a number of European services such as Paris, London and Frankfurt.

The emiraTes a380 OnbOard LOunge geTs a makeOver Your experience on board Emirates is about to get even more stylish, as a series of new cabin products and enhancements is to be launched on its A380 fleet. The multimillion-dollar interiors upgrade programme includes an enhanced Onboard Lounge for the flagship Airbus A380 aircraft, something that will undoubtedly strike a chord with passengers. Sir Tim Clark, president of Emirates Airline, said, “The A380 Onboard Lounge is hugely popular with our customers and has become an iconic feature of Emirates’ A380 offering. In our latest revamp, we have taken inspiration from private yacht cabins and, among other thoughtful touches, have increased the seating space and also made it more intimate and conducive for our passengers to socialise or enjoy our lounge service.” The new Emirates A380 Onboard Lounge will make its operational debut in July. | 66 |

UNDER THE PATRONAGE OF

HIS HIGHNESS SHEIKH MOHAMED BIN ZAYED AL NAHYAN

CROWN PRINCE OF ABU DHABI AND DEPUTY SUPREME COMMANDER OF THE UAE ARMED FORCES

10-23 APRIL

IPIC ARENA

UAEJJF.COM ORGANIZED BY

OFFICIAL PARTNER

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Weather support technology boost for emirates Emirates has started field-testing an innovative decision support technology that allows it to better manage operations, safety and environmental performance in extreme and disruptive winter weather. Working with Vaisala, a market leader in environmental and industrial measurement services based in Finland, the airline has rolled out testing of the CheckTime decision system for winter weather at Copenhagen and Chicago. CheckTime uses real-time measurements of a number of factors such as temperature, wind and precipitation type from precision weather sensors to accurately estimate the impact of prevailing weather conditions on de- and anti-icing fluids on the aircraft. It then communicates the results to pilots via the ACARS system on board. It replaces a procedure where pilots manually use a combination of holdover timetables, information charts and observation of weather conditions to estimate if it’s suitable for the aircraft to depart. A decision to expand CheckTime to other Emirates stations having cold weather operations will be made following a complete analysis of test results.

industry heavyWeights in dubai for step conference

the largest tech and startup conference in the mena region, stEP 2017, will deliver its most impressive speaker lineup yet for its fifth edition.

Sponsored by Emirates and packing serious star power, confirmed speakers include some of the most influential Arabs in the world as well as heavyweights | 68 |

from the tech, digital and entertainment industries. With a focus on the intersection of technology, digital media and entertainment, keynote presentations will include BBC journalist Kim Ghattas’ onstage interview with Omar Saif Ghobash, the UAE ambassador to Russia and author of Letters to a Young Muslim. Joining him will be Ayman Jamal, founder of Dubai-based Barajoun Entertainment and producer and co-director of the critically acclaimed animation Bilal: A New Breed of Hero. Both will discuss how young Muslims can navigate the complexities of today’s world. The event takes place at Dubai International Marine Club on April 5 to 6 and is followed by STEP Music, an event which includes a 12-hour music festival featuring 17 of the region’s best acts.

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Flight time StorieS Emirates’ latest family-focused campaign sees the launch of a brand new illustrated storybook for kids – all inspired by one very excited four-year-old competition winner WORDs: Matt MOstyn

World Book day UK returned last month and, as this year marks its 20th anniversary, emirates decided to celebrate the occasion with a brand new, specially written children’s book that launched on the very same day. Titled Monkey on a Plane!, it tells the story of the adventures of Enrico the monkey (who just happens to be one of the cute, cuddly Fly With Me animals available on board Emirates for kids to play with). The tale has been brought to life with a series of beautiful illustrations to accompany his adventures. Yet the book’s journey to publication was no ordinary one, and award-winning British author and illustrator duo Philip Reeve and Sarah McIntyre took their inspiration from a recent competition run by Emirates, which encouraged intrepid young writers to send in their stories and drawings as part of the airline’s Flight Time

Stories campaign. An initiative designed to get parents and children excited about travelling, the competition also aimed to give families the opportunity to tap into their creativity and influence key elements of the book. From more than 200 entries submitted, the eventual winner was announced as four-year-old Maddison Penney from Dorset, England, whose hugely entertaining story proved irresistible to the competition judges. Its hero is intrepid explorer Enrico the monkey, who becomes bored of living in the forest with his cheeky brothers and sisters, and so packs a suitcase to board a plane and embark on a great adventure. Budding author and artist Maddison was overjoyed to discover she’d won, as her mother explained, “Maddison is absolutely thirlled to see her ideas come to life with such amazing

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illustrations, and for the book to be written and designed by such talented people. She loves reading stories, and has such an amazing imagination, so to see those ideas being turned into such a magical story is a dream come true. Maddison can be so shy, and finds happiness in drawing and writing, and winning has really given her such a boost of confidence. She can’t wait to share the story with all her friends and family, and it has really inspired her to continue writing. I hope the book inspires other children to do the same.” Having previously worked together on illustrated children’s books including Pugs of the Frozen North, Oliver and the Seawigs and Jinks & O’Hare Funfair Repair, the writer/illustrator duo behind the book were no less thrilled to be part of Emirates’ latest project. As author Reeve explained, “It was an absolute pleasure to read all the fantastic stories imagined by children all over the UK, and it was so difficult to choose a winner – but after much deliberation we decided on Monkey on a Plane!, which features such a wonderful character and adventure.” And for McIntyre, the book’s illustrator, Enrico was a similarly rich source of inspiration. “We loved Maddison’s cheeky monkey character, and really looked forward to bringing him to life with our colourful illustrations,” she said. Monkey on a Plane! can be downloaded at emiratesflighttimestories.com – and the lovingly illustrated new book not only tells a great story, but also encourages children to use their imagination via interactive creative writing and drawing tasks. The book contains a step-by-step guide for readers to draw their very own monkey and then create a comic strip story around their character, while the website offers a host of resources, with guidance on how to write a travel story inspired by holiday adventures,

as well the opportunity to read some of the other inspiring competition entries. Boutros Boutros, Emirates’ Divisional Senior Vice President for Corporate Communications, Marketing and Brand, spoke of his delight at the Flight Time Stories initiative. “We see every day how families enjoy travelling together, and it’s been wonderful reading the Flight Time Stories, seeing how holidays inspire their stories and drawings, and just how creative children can be.” After the story-writing competition ended, the opportunity for kids to express their creativity continued, as Emirates launched a World Book Day competition to celebrate the launch of the book. Young bookworms had the chance to win a once-in-a-lifetime holiday to Dubai for themselves and their family by dressing up as their favourite storybook character – with a fantastic range of characters created, inspired by anything from Winnie the Pooh to the Cat in the Hat. Families were encouraged to share their photos on social media, including the Emirates social handles (Twitter: @emirates / Facebook: Emirates) as well as the hashtags #FlightTimeStories and #WorldBookDay in the post. Emirates judges, alongside Monkey on a Plane! author and illustrator duo Reeve and McIntyre, then selected the ultimate winner, who will enjoy an incredible holiday to Dubai with their family, while the competition runners-up received a copy of Monkey on a Plane! Emirates hopes to continue to inspire and delight imaginations for many years to come, with lots more family travel adventures and experiences.

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D E S T I N A T I O N

NEWARK Emirates now operates a daily service from Dubai to Newark via the Greek capital of Athens. Here’s how to successfully navigate the most populous city in New Jersey Newark occasionally gets a bad rap. In fact, the whole of New Jersey does.This is where those who can’t afford to live in New York reside. Or so the belief goes. For years, ﬁctional mob boss Tony Soprano was the city’s most recognisable cultural export, while many outsiders’ view of the state of New Jersey comes solely from the New Jersey Turnpike, one of the most heavily travelled highways in the United States, but Newark itself is on a long road to recovery. It’s one that is still a work in progress, but there are numerous reasons to be cheerful. The city’s Ironbound district – adjacent to Pennsylvania Station

EAT

– has emerged as a culinary gem while the large Portuguese and Spanish population has added much needed colour and ﬂair. With its European market town vibe and proximity to Manhattan, Ironbound is the city’s most vibrant neighbourhood and is bordered on all sides by a network of railroad tracks that give the area its name. Portuguese, Spanish and Brazilian dining is its speciality but there is also a large selection of bars, cafes, shops and restaurants to enjoy. With an international airport, universities and one of the largest ports in the country, the city is only a 20-minute train ride away from Midtown Manhattan and open for exploration.

STAY

FORNOS OF SPAIN Located on Ferry Street, Ironbound’s main thoroughfare, Fornos of Spain may be one of the area’s more expensive restaurants but it includes one of the rarest selections of Spanish wines in the United States. With seafood its speciality, sizeable portions and a great atmosphere, it is an Ironbound institution. fornosrestaurant.com

HOTEL INDIGO NEWARK DOWNTOWN Built in 1912 and designed by Cass Gilbert as the National State Bank, the Hotel Indigo Newark Downtown has a front desk created from reclaimed teller desks. It has also integrated the original bank vault into its restaurant design, while its decor and artwork reﬂect the neighbourhood’s spirit of innovation and invention. ihg.com

BLOOMFEST If you’re travelling in April, your timing is perfect as the highlight of the Essex County Cherry Blossom Festival takes place this month on April 24. Bloomfest (pictured left) will see a day of live performances, cultural demonstrations and, of course, cherry blossoms attract around 7,000 from New Jersey and the surrounding areas.

MOMPOU Another Ironbound eatery, Mompou is a Spanish tapas house and wine bar that has tradition at its core. With many dishes spiced up with modern twists, the restaurant hosts regular live music events and is famous for its homemade sangria. Dishes are served on stacked trays, so be prepared to eat well. mompoutapas.com

COURTYARD NEWARK DOWNTOWN One of the newest hotels in downtown Newark, like many others in the city, the Courtyard offers easy access to Newark Liberty International Airport and New York City. With innovative design and modern, pristine amenities, the hotel provides everything you would expect from a Courtyard property. marriott.com

NEW JERSEY PERFORMING ARTS CENTER An iconic performing arts venue and one of the largest of its kind in the United States, the centre was ﬁrst opened in 1997 and was designed by architect Barton Myers. Home to the New Jersey Symphony Orchestra, it hosts numerous festivals and national acts throughout the year, and was built on the site of the former Military Park Hotel.

SPANISH TAVERN Frequently crowded and with a dining room that looks like it was decorated by a Spanish grandmother, Spanish Tavern pulls in the punters. A family eatery famed for its traditional paella and seafood dishes, its portions are generous and include standout dishes such as paella valenciana. spanishtavernnewark.com

HILTON NEWARK PENN STATION With easy access to New York City via Pennsylvania Station – to which it is connected via a covered walkway – this hotel is all about location. Within easy walking distance of the Prudential Center – home of the NHL’s New Jersey Devils – and the New Jersey Performing Arts Center, convenience is everything. hilton.com

CATHEDRAL BASILICA OF THE SACRED HEART The ﬁfth-largest cathedral in North America, the Cathedral Basilica of the Sacred Heart is situated in the Lower Broadway neighbourhood of Newark. Although construction began in 1899, it wasn’t ﬁnished until 1954. The end result is a cathedral built in the French Gothic revival style for the Catholic faithful.

Emirates’ partnerships with JetBlue Airways, Alaska Airlines and Virgin America allow for connections to and from more than 100 destinations across the US, Caribbean and Mexico.

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C O M F O R T

COMFORT IN THE AIR To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time onboard with Emirates today.

SMART TRAVELLER

DRINK PLENTY OF WATER Rehydrate with water or juices frequently. Drink tea and coffee in moderation.

TRAVEL LIGHTLY

WEAR GLASSES

USE SKIN MOISTURISER

KEEP MOVING

Carry only the essential items that you will need during your ﬂight.

Cabin air is drier than normal, therefore swap your contact lenses for glasses.

Apply a good quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.

Exercise your lower legs and calf muscles. This encourages blood ﬂow.

BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition. Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications? Get a good night’s rest before the ﬂight. Eat lightly and sensibly.

AT THE AIRPORT

MAKE YOURSELF COMFORTABLE Loosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body.

DURING THE FLIGHT

Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in. Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the ﬂight as this can place the body under considerable stress. Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

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Chewing and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent. Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy. Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently. Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

SHARPS BOXES Sharps boxes are available onboard all Emirates ﬂights for safe disposal of medical equipment. Please ask a member of your cabin crew for more information.

WHEN YOU ARRIVE Try some light exercise or read if you can’t sleep after arrival.

MOH DH88562-1.05.17

THE FUTURE OF PRIVATE HEALTHCARE IN ABU DHABI, AL AIN AND THE WESTERN REGION.

Following the merger of Mediclinic and Al Noor in 2016, all Al Noor medical facilities in Abu Dhabi, Al Ain and the Western Region will be renamed under the Mediclinic brand from 1 April 2017*.

Mediclinic promises to build on the foundations of excellence laid by Al Noor over the past 30 years, and deliver even greater levels of international quality healthcare to its patients. To make an appointment at any Mediclinic facility in Abu Dhabi, Al Ain or the Western Region, please call 800 264 22 (within UAE).

*Rebranding will be completed by March 2018.

#ExpertiseYouCanTrust

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Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle-free as possible.

CUSToMS DECLARATIoN FoRM All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

ElEctronic SyStEm for travEl authoriSation (ESta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Program, you must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure. ESta factS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending. A successful ESTA application is valid for two years. However, this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport. apply onlinE at www.cbp.gov/ESta nationalitiES EligiblE for thE viSa waivEr*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom** * SubjEct to changE ** only britiSh citizEnS qualify undEr thE viSa waivEr program. | 76 |

OPEN SKIES FOR IPAD

Search for Open Skies on the App Store

openskiesmagazine.com

c u s t o m s

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Cut the queue at JFK with quiCK ConneCt If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service. The US Customs and Border Protection agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.

Follow TheSe STePS:

have your boarding card or ticket for your connecting flight ready for the ground staff as you exit.

You’ll be given a Quick Connect card. Continue to the Quick Connect queue in the Arrivals hall.

After passport clearance, claim your baggage and clear US customs, regardless of your final destination.

If your bag is tagged to your final destination, hand it to emirates staff at the transfer counter for your onward flight.

quarantine in australia Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card. You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left onboard. Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.

quarantine in Japan Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items. You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if: • you have recently been to a livestock farm • are bringing livestock products into Japan • your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock The counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer. | 78 |

U A E

S M A R T

G A T E

BE SMART! USE UAE SMART GATE AT DUBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES

UAE

Andorra

Australia

Austria

Bahrain

Belgium

Brunei

Canada

Denmark

Finland

France

Germany

Greece

Iceland

Ireland

Italy

Japan

Kuwait

Liechtenstein

Luxembourg

Malaysia

Monaco

Netherlands

New Zealand

Norway

Oman

Portugal

Qatar

San Marino

Saudi Arabia

Singapore

South Korea

Spain

Sweden

Switzerland

*UK

USA

GO THROUGH IMMIGRATION IN SECONDS AND GET YOUR VISIT TO DUBAI OFF TO A FLYING START Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International by using UAE Smart Gate. If you hold a machine-readable passport or E-Gate card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds. Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International Airport.

USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

Have your E-Gate card or machine-readable passport ready to be scanned

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, place your E-Gate card into the E-Gate slot

OK!

Go through the open gate, stand in the blue footprint guide on the ﬂoor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When ﬁnished, the next set of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration ofﬁcer. That’s it! Every time you ﬂy to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you landed. IF YOU’RE A UAE RESIDENT Remember to bring your Emirates ID next time you’re travelling through DXB – you’ll be able to speed through passport control in a matter of seconds, without paying and without registering. Valid at all Smart Gates, located in Arrivals and Departures across all three terminals at DXB. | 80 |

*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY:

• Machine-readable passports from the above countries • E-Gate cards

R O U T E

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M A P

R O U T E

M A P

NEW ROUTE: Zagreb: daily service starts June 1 Phnom Penh: daily service via Yangon starts July 1

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M A P

CORPORATE & COMMERCIAL LEGAL SERVICES LITIGATION, ARBITRATION & ADR BUSINESS SETUP & COMPANY REGISTRATION OFFSHORE & FREE ZONE COMPANY FORMATION INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY & E-COMMERCE LAWS BANKING, INSURANCE & MARITIME LAWS REAL ESTATE & CONSTRUCTION LAWS MEDICAL NEGLIGENCE DRAFTING & CONTRACT REVIEWS LEGAL TRANSLATION DEBT COLLECTION TRADEMARK & PATENT REGISTRATION PROTECTION & ENFORCEMENT

DUBAI

EMIRATES TOWERS 14th Floor, Sheikh Zayed Road P.O. Box: 9055, Dubai-UAE T+971 4 330 43 43 F +971 4 330 39 39

ABU DHABI

JABEL ALI

SHARJAH

INTERNET CITY

TEL: +971 2 639 44 46 auh@emiratesadvocates.com TEL: +971 6 572 86 66 shj@emiratesadvocates.com

TEL: +971 4 887 16 79 jafz@emiratesadvocates.com TEL: +971 4 390 08 20 dic@emiratesadvocates.com

RAS AL KHAIMAH

TEL: +971 7 204 67 19 rak@emiratesadvocates.com

R O U T E

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M A P

AMERICAN HOSPITAL DUBAI

CANCER CARE CENTER

HEALING HANDS. CARING HEARTS.

Fighting cancer is a team effort. With treatment approaches constantly evolving and providing a growing array of medical tools to diagnose and attack the disease, it is essential to turn to skilled physicians trained in cancer care when deciding on an appropriate treatment plan. At the American Hospital Dubai Cancer Care Center, treating cancer is what we do. From diagnosis and treatment to side-effect management and survivorship, our oncologists treat every stage. Through advanced tools and state-of-the-art technology, we provide fast and accurate diagnosis and develop thorough treatment plans, supporting patients with therapies to reduce side-effects and improve quality of life.

•

Medical Oncology and Hematology

•

Pediatric Oncology and Hematology

•

Radiation Oncology with most Advanced Technology available

•

Surgical Oncology for all specialties

•

Cancer Diagnostic Department with PET scans capabilities

•

Palliative Care

•

Cancer Ablation Therapy for Thyroid Cancer

•

Multidisciplinary approach with E-consults with Mayo Clinic Care Network

To book an appointment, please call +971 4 377 6369 or visit www.ahdubai.com

American Hospital Dubai accepts most major health insurance plans, please call (+971) 800 - 5500

MOHAP–OK57086 – 01/05/2017

OUR CANCER CARE SERVICES:

F L E E T

EMIRATES FLEET

Our fleet of 262 aircraft includes 247 passenger aircraft and 15 SkyCargo aircraft

AIRBUS A380-800 2500+ 17% All Emirates A380 aircraft are fitted with Wi-Fi, Mobile Phone and Data Roaming services. 16 (17%) of the A380s are now equipped with Live Television, with more coming soon.

95 in fleet. Up to 489-615 passengers. Range of 15,000km. L 72.7m x W 79.8m

BOEING 777-300ER This month: up to

2500+ 77% 102 (77%) of Emirates Boeing 777-300ERs are equipped with Live Television, Wi-Fi, Mobile Phone and Data Roaming services, with more coming soon.

132 in fleet. Up to 354-442 passengers. Range of 14,594km. L 73.9m x W 64.8m

BOEING 777-200LR 2500+

10 in fleet. Up to 266 passengers. Range of 17,446km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m

EMIRATES SKYCARGO

BOEING 777F

The most environmentally-friendly freighter operated today, with the lowest fuel burn of any comparably-sized cargo aircraft. Along with its wide main-deck cargo door which can accommodate oversized consignments, it is also capable of carrying up to 103 tonnes of cargo non-stop on 10-hour sector lengths.

13 in fleet. Range of 9,260km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m

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1 arriving

F L E E T

CONNECTIVITY AND ENTERTAINMENT SERVICES AVAILABLE

# Live Television

Wi-Fi

Mobile Phone GSM

Data Roaming GPRS

Channels of inflight entertainment

BOEING 777-300 1500+

9 in fleet. Up to 364 passengers. Range of 11,029km. L 73.9m x W 60.9m

AIRBUS A319 550+

1 in fleet. Up to 19 passengers. Range of 7,000km. L 33.84m x W 34.1m

The Emirates Executive Private Jet takes our exceptional service to the highest level to fly you personally around the world. Fly up to 19 guests in the utmost comfort of our customised A319 aircraft with the flexibility of private jet travel. Further information at emirates-executive.com

EMIRATES SKYCARGO

BOEING 747 ERF

This aircraft is capable of carrying up to 117 tonnes. The deck-side cargo door, with a height of approximately three metres, allows the uplift of oversized shipments that cannot be accommodated in the belly-hold of passenger aircraft. The nose door allows the carriage of long pieces.

2 in fleet. Range of 9,204km. L 70.6m x W 64.4m For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet

Aircraft numbers accurate at the time of going to press

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s t r e e t

k n o w l e d g e

the Guide

Eight-time Olympic gold medallist, world record holder and fastest man on the planet, Usain Bolt shows us around Kingston

if yOu want tO eat great Jamaican fOOd You must know that jerked chicken is our classic dish, and it’s delicious. You can get it pretty much everywhere in Kingston – in restaurants and in street stalls – but my favourite place is at Tracks and Records [unsurprisingly, Bolt’s own bar and restaurant].

lOOKing fOr reggae? Tracks is a great option again – seriously, I’m not just saying that because it’s my place.You can eat, you can watch your favourite sports team, and you can listen to some great reggae – what’s not to love? Food, sports and music are pretty much my three favourite things in life. if yOu want tO gO dancing The absolute best thing about Kingston is the nightlife, the reggae clubs, and the dancing. It would be so hard to pick just one, so my advice is to make sure you come to Kingston on International Reggae Day (July 1). The whole city comes alive and it’ll be an experience you will never ever forget.

tO KicK bacK Emancipation Park is the most peaceful place in Kingston. It’s a really calm spot in the middle of a busy city. It’s a very important part of Jamaica’s history and our freedom – the clue’s in the name. if yOu have tO shOp, sKip the malls You can see them anywhere. Instead visit Coronation Market. Go there for real Jamaican people, the freshest sights and smells, and some of the best street food in the city. if yOu want tO train liKe a Jamaican I train at the Racers Track Club at the University of the West Indies. It’s the best in

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the world, you just need to look at the athletes it has produced to see that. It has a gym, and everything you need. For the public, however, I would again say Emancipation Park. You won’t get many more beautiful places to go for a run. if yOu Only have One day in KingstOn Even if you’re not working out you should still go to Emancipation Park to enjoy the peace and quiet. Then check out the Bob Marley Museum, and then, without doubt, experience our amazing nightlife. Nobody should visit Kingston and not try it. To do that would just be plain wrong.

AS TOLD TO: EMMA COILER; ILLUSTRATIOn: RALph MAnCAO

OK, let’s start with breaKfast If you want the best, well that’s served up at my house, with my chef preparing it. But you can’t come here, that’s out of bounds. If you’re looking for a recommendation, I love to eat Jamaican dumplings for breakfast; they’re great if you want to workout afterwards.