Open Skies

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AUGUST 2010

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JULIETTE

BINOCHE A CLASS ACT

Contents AUGUST 2010

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20 LA BINOCHE Juliette Binoche believes that women reach their prime in their forties, and she definitely lives up to that with a career that just seems to keep getting better.

BY MARTIN GANI

28 GANG DAD What is a father to do when his son becomes involved with a gang? In Jerry Wheeler’s case you fight all the way, even if it means taking on South Los Angeles’ gangland. BY JIM CALIO

35 HEALING ART Angola was once known for its civil war but today the country is a modern democracy. Luanda, the capital, is gearing up to host its second Triennial that aims to put the country on the art map. BY LOUISE REDVERS

40 MADRID’S GOURMET TOUR DE FORCE The Spanish capital is renowned for style, glamour, fashion and beauty. Plus it has a fantastic restaurant scene with some famous Michelin-starred chefs creating culinary masterpieces. BY SCOTT ADAM August 2010

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TRAVEL SHORTS World Matters WANDERLUST Los Gigantes, Canary Islands WORLD CALENDAR Events to Diarise WELL TRAVELLED Wilfred Thesiger STREET STYLE São Paulo MY WORLD Noriko Tsuiki, Living Treasure CELEBRITY CITY Taher Qassim’s Liverpool 48 HOURS in Singapore DUBAI DIARY The Hot List COOL STUFF Mighty Sounds DEPARTURE Lac Rose

Emirates News 59 The latest news and

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information about Emirates, helpful travel tips and its global network.

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COVER PHOTO: CORBIS Published for Emirates by

PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE. Telephone: (+971 4) 2824060, fax:(+971 4) 2824436, e-mail: emirates@motivate.ae

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Editor-in-Chief Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Group Editor & Managing Partner Ian Fairservice Group Senior Editor Gina Johnson Email: gina@motivate.ae Senior Editor Guido Duken Email: guido@motivate.ae, Arabic Editor Ghoufran Fakhri Email: ghoufran@motivate.ae, Deputy Editor Nick Rice Email: nick@motivate.ae Editorial Assistant Hilda D’Souza Art Directors Tarak Parekh, Rehab Barham General Manager – Production and Circulation S Sasidharan Production Manager C Sudhakar General Manager, Group Sales Anthony Milne Email: anthony@motivate.ae Business Development Manager Nicola Hudson Email: nicola@motivate.ae Senior Advertisement Manager Jaya Balakrishnan Email: jaya@motivate.ae; Deputy Advertisement Manager Murali Narayanan Advertisement Manager Shruti Srivastava Editorial Consultants for Emirates: Editor: Siobhan Oswald Arabic Editor: Hatem Omar Deputy Editor: Stephanie Byrne Website: emirates.com INTERNATIONAL MEDIA REPRESENTATIVES AUSTRALIA Okeeffe Media; Tel +61 89 381 7425, Fax +61 89 382 4850, okeeffekev@bigpond.com.au CHINA/HONG KONG Emphasis Media Limited; Tel +85 22 516 1048, Fax +85 22 561 3349, advertising@emphasis.net CYPRUS Epistle Communications & Media; Tel +35 72 246 6555, Fax +35 72 276 9999, nasreenk@epistlemedia.com FRANCE/SWITZERLAND Intermedia Europe Ltd; Tel +33 15 534 9550, Fax +33 15 534 9549, administration@intermedia.europe.com GERMANY IMV International Media Service GmbH; Tel +49 211 887 2310,Fax +49 211 887 2919, j.hoffmann@vhb.de INDIA Media Star; Tel +91 22 281 5538/39/40, Fax +91 22 283 9619, ravi@mediastar.co.in ITALY IMM Italia; Tel +39 023 653 4433, Fax +39 029 998 1376, lucia.colucci@fastwebnet.it JAPAN Skynet Media Inc.; Tel/Fax +81 43 278 6977, skynetmedia@y2.dion.ne.jp TURKEY Media Ltd; Tel +90 212 275 8433, Fax +90 212 275 9228, mediamarketingtr@medialtd.com.tr UK Spafax Inflight Media; Tel +44 207 906 2001, Fax +44 207 906 2022, nhopkins@spafax. com USA Redwood Custom Communications Inc.; Tel 212-473-5679 x 313 , Fax 212-260-3509, brigitte.baron@redwoodcc.com

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travelshorts Yoga Helps Cancer Survivors

CULTURE ICON

Cancer survivors might want to try yoga to improve the quality of their sleep and promote energy levels, according to a new US study. Researchers from the University of Rochester Medical Center in New York randomly selected around 400 cancer survivors who had been treated with chemotherapy for breast cancer, and assigned them into two groups. The first group did gentle Hatha yoga and restorative yoga, which included breathing and meditation exercises, while members of the second group were merely observed as they followed standard practice, which does not include yoga. Participants who did yoga managed to reduce the amount of sleeping pills and generally slept better. Results also indicated a 22 per cent increase in sleep quality on a commonly used scale. This was double the improvement of survivors who didn’t do the yoga exercises and postures.

Moreover, yoga was shown to decrease fatigue levels by almost half, and contributed to a better quality of life. “We really don’t have any good remedies for fatigue for cancer survivors,” said Karen Mustian, the researcher who led the study.

It is still unclear though how yoga achieves its relaxing effects.

The tuk-tuk is Thailand’s ubiquitous three-wheel scooter bike, named after the sound of its two-stroke engine while idling.

It is a popular mode of transport with locals and visitors alike and has an edge over taxis because its compact size allows it to nip through gaps in the traffic to decrease the travel time.

The ride in this open-sided three-wheeler is as exciting as it’s nerve-racking as there are no seat belts and they can rattle and jerk precariously. But it’s a fun experience and most visitors have it on their must-do list. Many tourists can be seen taking photos while sitting in this authentic Thai taxi.

Not only is the ride much cheaper than in a car but also pleasant if you are riding out of a smoggy town. Nothing beats an early morning tuk-tuk ride through the tropical countryside with a cool wind on your face.

You can lean back and enjoy the ride but be sure not to rest your feet on the rail near the driver’s head as in Thailand it is a taboo to touch people on the head or point your feet toward someone. Also it’s best to discuss the price before the journey and drivers won’t take offence at haggling.

Superlatively Speaking The Five Most Expensive Cities for Expatriates in the World

(In a comparative cost of over 200 items in each location, including housing, transport, food, clothing, household goods and entertainment.)

Luanda, Angola Monthly cost to rent a luxury two-bedroom apartment: $7,000 Cup of coffee: $3.80 Two movie tickets: $26 Fast-food hamburger: $17.50

Tokyo, Japan Monthly cost to rent a luxury two-bedroom apartment: $4,436.42 Cup of coffee: $6.65 Two movie tickets: $39.93 Fast-food hamburger: $7.21

Ndjamena, Chad Monthly cost to rent a luxury two-bedroom apartment: $6,000 Cup of coffee: $3.12 Two movie tickets: $27 Fast-food hamburger: $26.53

Moscow, Russia Monthly cost to rent a luxury two-bedroom apartment: $3,600 Cup of coffee: $8.29 Two movie tickets: $26.53 Fast-food hamburger: $5.67

Geneva, Switzerland Monthly cost to rent a luxury two-bedroom apartment: $4,010.75 Cup of coffee: $5.13 Two movie tickets: $29.85 Fast-food hamburger: $10.54

August 2010

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travelshorts The Gulf’s First Bicycle City

ISTOCK PHOTO

Cyclists in Doha have good reason to get excited as the Qatari capital is preparing to become the region’s first bicycle-friendly city. “We have worked out the Qatar National Bicycle Master Plan to make Qatar the centre of bicycles in the Middle East,” said Sa’ad Mohammad Khodr, senior transportation engineer at the Ministry of Municipality and Urban Planning. According to a statement he made at the Meed Qatar Transport Project 2010, the city has already started setting up bike lanes by reconstructing the existing roads to facilitate bicycle lanes, ensuring safety for cyclists. However, the large number of roundabouts represents a challenge to the project. Khodr confirmed that the plan includes both short-term and long-term solutions, such as developing under-path cycle routes. “It’s not just the bicycle as a means of transportation, but it’s about creating more chances for people to have enjoyable leisure time,” he explained. Blessed with year-round sunshine and perfect winters, Qatar’s climate will encourage cyclists to use their bikes for daily trips, whether it’s for pleasure or commuting. Cycling is especially popular with young boys and Asian expatriates, who tend to favour it for getting to work.

Moreover, the activity is of great advantage to general health and will have a significantly positive impact on the environment.

ju·bi·lant showing great joy, satisfaction, or exultant: the cheers of the jubilant victors; the jubilant climax of his symphony.

TRAVEL TIP

WHEN IN ROME...

5 EASY WAYS TO IMPROVE YOUR HOLIDAY PHOTOS

In Japan, don’t start drinking until everyone at the table is served and the glasses are raised to toast. The Japanese drinking salute is usually ‘Kampai!’

1. With a new camera, familiarise yourself with the functions before your trip. Read the manual and work out all the features.

2. When photographing a landscape, make the foreground interesting.

You could have a rock, tree or even a statue in focus or a shot of a person doing something relating to the landscape, such as a fisherman tending his nets against the backdrop of an ocean view.

3. Go beyond the posed picture. Photos are about remembering moments, not just places. Shots of companions in action will capture the fun of a trip.

4. Get as close as you can to your subject. Try to zoom in and fill your frame and get sharper images.

5. Plan your outdoor photos for the first and last hour of sunlight. Midday sun tends to make pictures flat and shapeless. The day’s ‘golden hours’ give objects more shape and definition.

In the Czech Republic, do wish your dining partners ‘dobrou chut’, which is a general translation of Bon Appetit.

In Spain, do expect a kiss on each cheek (starting with the left cheek) or a hug from a woman you are familiar with.

Expect a pat on the back or a quick hug from a man you are familiar with.

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wanderlust

PHOTO: CORBIS

Los Gigantes, Canary Islands

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If you have a head for heights or simply love stunning scenery, then Tenerife, one of the Canary Islands, might be just the place for you. Los Gigantes (The Giants) on the island’s west coast, is a popular resort town named after the vertigo inducing rock cliffs that rise straight out of the sea to a height of 800 metres.

One way to get close to the cliffs is by boat, at which point you

Open Skies

will realise just how enormous they are. Or, if you like heights, you can walk along a trail close to Los Gigantes’ edge that takes about 25 minutes and finishes at the water’s edge. The early inhabitants of Tenerife thought that the cliffs were sacred and ancient writers like Homer and Virgil believed that they marked the end of the world. ❖

worldcalendar

September 2010 Highlights of global events for the month ahead.

1-11, WEDNESDAY LA BIENNALE DI VENEZIA The hunt is on for the coveted Golden Lion as the 67th Venice International Film Festival gets into gear.

Expect some fireworks as Quentin Tarantino will chair the international jury. His colleague, John Woo, will receive the Golden Lion Lifetime Achievement Award. labiennale.org

15-26, WEDNESDAY INTERNATIONALES LITERATURFESTIVAL BERLIN This year Berlin’s 10th literature festival will focus on Eastern Europe. More than 100 authors from 50 plus countries participate in 200 events over 12 days, allowing audiences insights into their work, prose and poetry. literaturfestival.com

2-5, THURSDAY 2010 FISA WORLD ROWING MASTERS REGATTA Around 3,000 athletes, aged from 27 to 75 plus, will participate in this four-day event held at St Catharines in Canada. A great atmosphere surrounds this competition where rowers from all walks of life show their strokes.

2010fisaworldrowingmasters.com

16-19, THURSDAY FINA SYNCHRONISED SWIMMING WORLD CUP The world’s elite synchronised swimmers will gather in Changshu, China, to compete for the Synchro World Cup title. The international competition will be held at the Changshu Sports Centre and features solo, team and combination events. fina.org

8-11, WEDNESDAY LADBROKES ST. LEGER FESTIVAL The 2010 Ladbrokes St. Leger is the highlight of the year at the UK’s Doncaster Racecourse. The four-day event is filled with top class racing, great entertainment, fashion and the St. Leger Race itself, the world’s oldest classic. doncaster-racecourse.co.uk

24-28, FRIDAY HERMANUS WHALE FESTIVAL Droves of visitors and locals descend on the cliff tops around Walker Bay in South Africa to watch the Southern Right whales migrate along these shores.

It’s also an excellent time to enjoy the best of African music, food and hospitality. sa-venues.com/events

9-11, THURSDAY QORMI BREAD FESTIVAL The aroma of freshly baked bread from wood-fired ovens fills the air of Qormi, Malta’s bread capital.

This well-attended event will feature exhibitions, entertainment and organised tours to participating bakeries to sample all things baked. qormibreadfestival.org

26, SUNDAY BAY TO BIRDWOOD About 1,500 gleaming vintage vehicles manufactured before 1955 will line up for the 30th installment of Australia’s greatest motoring event. It’s the place to mingle with car owners, admire vehicles at the Councourse d’ Elegance and participate in The Run from Adelaide. baytobirdwood.com.au

10 SEPTEMBER-17 OCTOBER, FRIDAY BOOMFEST St Petersburg goes animation-crazy during the annual Boomfest, as the city celebrates the comic-book genre. Museums, galleries, streets and parks light up with exhibitions of the animated arts, while cinemas show contemporary and classic animated films. boomfest.ru/en 10

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30-3 OCTOBER, THURSDAY ÖLANDS SKÖRDEFEST Öland, Sweden’s second largest island, will in customary fashion celebrate its rich harvest. More than 900 activities ranging from a welcome parade to games and live music will transform the tranquil isle into a festive hub as food stalls cater well past midnight. olandsturist.se/en/Events

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welltravelled

Wilfred Thesiger Sir Wilfred Thesiger was an extraordinary explorer. Nick Rice reports on the centenary of the incomparable nomadic English gentleman whose vast legacy of travel writing and photography has been preserved for posterity.

Sir Wilfred Thesiger was one of the greatest explorers of the 20th century, if not, as Sir David Attenborough suggests, of any era. Attenborough said of Thesiger that he was, “One of the very few people who in our time could be put on the pedestal of the great explorers of the 18th and 19th centuries.”

Born in Ethiopia, then known as Abyssinia, Thesiger was the son of a British diplomat posted there. He was sent to England aged nine and received an elite education at Eton and Oxford. However the sights, sounds and smells of his birthplace stayed rooted within him and he yearned for lands of wild and nomadic glory.

Writing of his childhood Thesiger said: “I am certain that the first nine years of my life have influenced everything that followed.” One of the spectacles he witnessed as a boy was the Shoan armies marching into battle during the 1916-17 revolution. In his autobiography The Life of My Choice, he wrote: “I believe that day implanted in me a life-long craving for barbaric splendour, for savagery and colour and the throb of drums. It gave me a lasting veneration for long-established custom and ritual, from which I would derive later a deepseated resentment of western innovations in other lands, and a deep distaste for the drab uniformity of the modern world.”

He returned to Africa aged 20 to attend the coronation of Emperor Haile Selassie as Honorary Attache to the Duke of Gloucester, the King’s representative at the coronation. From that point on he continued to explore much of East Africa and the Middle East, driven by “the urge to go where no white man had been.”

Thesiger effectively renounced Western civilisation and was resolute in how he lived. He traversed thousands of kilometres across all kinds of terrain by traditional methods only, refusing to use any type of motorised vehicle and holding disdain for the march of progress in general. He hated relying on anything other than himself and the select few trusted countrymen of the wide lands he travelled. If he was going, he was going on foot.

At most he’d be on four feet, with the assistance of a horse, mule or camel. He believed in the undertakings of hardship and withstanding privation to fully appreciate and understand the lives of those people in whose lands he travelled. Thesiger distinguished himself above all peers with this uncompromising willingness and sturdy ability to see and experience life as did the inhabitants of the places he explored. Rather than observe, he strove to become.

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of the world and, perhaps with posterity in mind, became a selftaught master photographer. He documented his extraordinary expeditions and travels in more than 40,000 photographs.

Much of his photography, all black and white, is of stunning landscapes. And yet he preferred to think of these sweeping environments as secondary, “A setting for my portraits of the people.”

Indeed it was largely for the people that he explored, “It has been people, not places, not hunting, not even exploration that have mattered to me most,” he once concluded.

To mark the centenary of Thesiger’s birth, the University of Oxford has opened a year-long exhibition at the Pitt Rivers Museum, showcasing some of the best examples of Thesiger’s incredible canon of work.

Accompanying the exhibition is the publication of two new books – a centenary edition of Thesiger’s seminal Arabian Sands and Wilfred Thesiger in Africa. ❖

streetstyle

São Paulo The world’s 10th richest city is South America’s style capital.

The organisers of São Paulo’s fashion week describe Brazil as a leader in ‘fun fashion’, but that’s not exactly what you see on the street.

The São Paulo style is smart casual, extremely wearable and personalised by the addition of some funky jewellery and other

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accessories. Trousers and flowing, free-spirited dresses are the order of the day and dressing ‘cool’ is driven by necessity.

Brazilian designers rarely strike it rich in North America and Europe. But in Latin America their clothes rule the roost and they outsell many of the well-known international labels. That’s where the fun comes into the local fashion. ❖

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myworld

Noriko Tsuiki, Living National Treasure

Tsuiki is often inspired by nature, as the names of her weaves suggest.

Her kimono fabrics are called Ariake (dawn), Mizubae (shining water) and Sakura Keshin (incarnation of a cherry tree).

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eaver Noriko Tsuiki is a ‘Living National Treasure’, an honour awarded by the Japanese government in recognition of an individual’s ‘preservation of important, intangible cultural properties’. Born in 1952 in Kitakyushu city, South Japan, Tsuiki studied the basics of Japanese hand-weaving at Tokyo’s Waseda University, followed by independent studies in tsumugi-ori (or Chinese silks) and kimono fabrication. In 1984 she revived the dormant tradition of weaving kokura-ori: a soft yet tough fabric capable of deflecting arrows that was popular during Japan’s feudal era (12th-19th centuries) when it was used in the making of samurai’s hakama and obi (robes and belts). In 1995 she established the Yuh Textile Studio and has since exhibited in galleries and competitions across the globe, including Bakuon 04 (The Sounds of Waterfalls), a piece housed at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum and Tanshin and Bunsuirei kimono sashes at The National

Museum of Modern Art in Tokyo. Tsuiki has also branched out into industrial design, notably patterning for a Katsuyama bridge in her home town of Kitakyushu. Sally Howard finds out more.

What first attracted you to a career in textiles?

It wasn’t a direct route. First I joined Waseda University, Tokyo, on a drama course. Soon I found that it was the costumes of Noh plays (a heavily codified form of masked Japanese theatre that dates back to the 14th century), that most enraptured me. In Noh there’s a kaleidoscope of colours, and outfits are deeply symbolic. In that moment I fell for all the romance and the possibility of textiles.

You’ve revived a number of dormant traditions in Japanese weaving – what lead you to do this, and how accessible were these ‘lost’ artisanal skills?

All my discoveries have come by chance. For

example, one day I found an old scrap of textile at an antique shop and I was immediately struck by its unusual, smooth touch. It felt like leather even though the material seemed to have the qualities of cotton. So I sent a sample for analysis and discovered it was kokura-ori, a fabric that ceased production in the 1930s. I started to try to replicate the weave through trial and error. It was a laborious process but the only way.

How does the Japanese textile tradition differ from that in other countries you’ve visited?

There are lots of beautiful textiles in the world and each talks of place, time and history. Textiles are a living, fluid art, a link to the past and witness to accumulated human wisdoms that reach back thousands of years. The Japanese golden age of design was the 16th to 17th centuries, so many of Japan’s design traditions can be traced to this period. Japanese textile tradition broadly differs from others in celebrating a depth of colour and designs which are uniquely our own.

You seem to be inspired by nature in the design of your fabrics. What are your other chief inspirations?

Yes, many of my designs are directly inspired by nature. Another important factor is music or sound; I often get an image to create a fabric from various natural sounds or music – classic or folk music, something I hear in passing.

and concepts at work in the entire building. It’s a great challenge.

What do you most love about your home country?

I love my home town of Kitakyushu. And the old imperial city of Kyoto is a wonderland for me, with its preserved temples, palaces and gardens. In Tokyo, I often go to Meiji Shrine, a silent and expansive place with many trees, which calms me and brings me back to nature from the bustle of the city.

How do you think textile art differs from other art mediums in its impact on the viewer?

The most important difference is that the textiles appeal to the sense of touch, not only to the sense of sight; something that’s understood more in Asian cultures than in the West. This ‘feeling of touch’ in the various materials and structures of fabrics is of as much importance as the visual impact.

You’ve travelled extensively as a cultural ambassador and to exhibit your work around the world. What’s your favourite country outside Japan?

I love England. Perhaps it’s the island-race mentality that’s shared with the Japanese, but the English manage to combine a respect for tradition with innovation and the avant-garde.

And I love traditional British pubs. We have ‘kakuuti’, which are a Japanese form of pubs, in Kitakyushu. They have something of the same old-fashioned style and sense of history.

You’ve also designed features for prominent buildings in Japan. How different is the process to working with fabrics?

I’m very interested in architectural design. The sense of scale and volume is very different from that used in fabrics. Designed fabrics start off from a single point – creating an image to generate a fabric design from. With architectural design, this is reversed. What’s needed is a sense of the whole, I need to know essences

What are your plans for the coming year?

I’m using kokura-ori technique in a range of diffusion fabrics designed by me but woven by machine, called Shima Shima. The fabric is beautifully adaptable and can be used for everything from handbags to scarves, hats and laptop cases. I’ll probably show them at Meuble Paris next January. That and take some time out for long baths, or a hot-spring resort, if I’m lucky. ❖ August 2010

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celebritycities

TAHER QASSIM

MY LIVERPOOL

When people ask me what symbolises Liverpool for me, I pick the Liver Birds every time. They are instantly recognisable landmarks and have appeared on every advertisement for the northern port city I made my home 15 years ago. Although there has been redevelopment around the area, the Liver Building, along with the neighbouring Cunard Building and Port of Liverpool Building, make up Liverpool’s Three Graces lining the City’s waterfront and, of course, there is a strong connection between Yemenis and the waterfront in Liverpool.

Although the Yemeni community centre isn’t in the port area, most of our families arrived in Liverpool by sea. They were sailors on British ships and so the maritime environment is part and parcel of why we are here. Last summer during the Liverpool Arabic Arts Festival the community’s elders crossed the Mersey on a ferry and then we performed our traditional songs and dances right next to the river. It drew quite a crowd and was a way to mark our long connection with the sea.

I was one of the founders of the Yemeni Arabic Club 18

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because there are so many of us and we needed a place where we could socialise. I work in the National Health Service as a public health neighbourhood manager. And now I am also chair of the Liverpool Arabic Centre.

Through the work connections I’ve made in the 15 years I’ve lived here, I was able to set up and chair the Liverpool Arabic Arts Festival. It is an annual cultural festival that is now in its ninth year. Its main aim is to bring about understanding between the British and Arab inhabitants of the city through culture. At first I didn’t really envisage creating anything quite so big.

Last year we had 25,000 people involved. It really started as a one-off small event. A group of us went into a local school to let the children see first hand what Yemeni culture is all about.

Then the Bluecoat, one of Liverpool’s main arts venues, staged a performance by an oud player and we supported this event. Since then we have worked together to bring the best Arab painters, poets, musicians, actors and dancers to perform in Liverpool every July. It has grown very quickly into an

Taher Qassim was one of the founder’s of the Yemeni Arabic club. Today he is the chair of the Liverpool Arabic Centre and was instrumental in setting up the Liverpool Arabic Arts Festival that has grown rapidly in its nine years.

WHERE TO EATAA MIDDLE EASTERN RESTAURANT Lodge Lane.

This is a great neighbourhood place to eat, near the Arabic Centre and with authentic Yemeni food.

BLUECOAT RESTAURANT I like the modern feel and the fact that the chef fuses Middle Eastern food with other cuisines. thebluecoat.org.uk WHERE TO SLEEPAA THE HARD DAYS NIGHT HOTEL A Beatles inspired hotel that is conveniently located and reminds me of the impact the Fab Four has had on the city. harddaysnighthotel.com ADELPHI HOTEL The Adelphi Hotel is a landmark in Liverpool and within walking distance of the train stations and the main attractions. I am especially drawn to its Edwardian interior. adelphi-hotel.co.uk WHAT TO DOA LIVERPOOL PHILHARMONIC It is famous worldwide.

The amazing art deco interior befits the high standard of performance I’ve come to expect. The yearly programme is varied and exciting. liverpoolphil.com FACT This is a Liverpool multi-dimensional cinema, art gallery and the UK’s leading organisation for the support and exhibition of film, art and new media.

They show vintage Arabic movies along with more modern arthouse films. It is very popular with all the communities in Liverpool. I like the architecture in particular which is largely concrete and very different from the usual plush cinemas. FACT also provides training. fact.co.uk TATE LIVERPOOL This museum has completely altered the atmosphere in the Albert Dock. There is always something new to stimulate ideas and it hosts Liverpool’s acclaimed Biennale. tate.org.uk/liverpool THE THREE GRACES I still enjoy walking in the vicinity of these buildings at Pierhead. They are grand without being off-putting and are a monument to the strength and determination of the Scousers (a local name for Liverpudlians) to overcome all odds.

THE BEATLES STORY Located in the Albert Dock the Fab Four’s award-winning story offers an atmospheric journey into the life, times, culture and music of the Beatles. Everyone who comes to Liverpool wants to go on a magical mystery tour to see how four young lads from Liverpool shook the world. beatlesstory.com

event that attracts huge interest not just in Liverpool but also from people all over the world.

We began holding Arabic weekenders in one of my favourite spots, Sefton Park. It’s a really big open space with lots of trees not far from the Arabic Centre.

The festival was staged in the Palm House and the exotic nature of the setting drew in lots of people who had never thought about mingling with Arabs. It was a big success. That taught us that there was a real need to continue. I still walk in Sefton Park but the focus of the festival has moved from there and into the mainstream cultural centres in the city.

At this year’s festival Egyptian pop superstar Mohamed Mounir performed before an excited crowd at the Liverpool Philharmonic. He also introduced an early Youssef Chahine film that he appears in (Destiny) at FACT, Liverpool’s Cinemateque. We have a huge number of arts venues in Liverpool thanks to the growth of cultural tourism here. After the city’s boom in the 1950s and 1960s because of coal mining and manufacturing, it went downhill from the 1970s onward with the decline in traditional manufacturing industries. But billions of pounds have been spent on regenerating the city along cultural lines and now we are lucky enough to have countless restaurants and shops. Of course we have our own special Yemeni eateries and I also enjoy the upstairs restaurant at the Bluecoat and a new Jamie Oliver Italian restaurant has just opened in Liverpool One. Liverpool’s success as European Capital of Culture in 2008 really crowned the city’s fortunes built on its cultural strengths. We had more than two and a half million visitors that year alone.

The festival now has connections with a large number of the more than 50 galleries and museums in the city’s heart. We are part of that amazing cultural boom, but we are very proud to have made our own mark on the Liverpool scene. And this year the festival received an important award from The Arab British Society in recognition of our work in contributing to the British public’s knowledge and understanding of Arab Culture. We're now a fixture on the Liverpool arts scene and that is just as important to me as the MBE I received last January. ❖ As told to Sylvia Smith

Top: In 2008, Liverpool was the European Capital of Culture. Qassim has been heavily promoting the city’s cultural strength.

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Binoche Juliette Binoche believes that women reach their prime in their forties. She definitely lives up to that with a career that just keeps getting better, reports Martin Gani.

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here are beautiful women and then there are exceptional women.

Think Sophia Loren, all class and Italian style, with an aura of la dolce vita. Then there’s French actress Juliette Binoche, a fine example of joie de vivre if ever there was one. Then again, labelling her a French actress is like reducing a bottle of Veuve Clicquot to grape juice. Binoche is far more than that. She’s a versatile, international star who is as likely to appear in a French drama or a Hollywood blockbuster as she is in an independent budget film. Binoche listens to her heart and soul, something that quickly became apparent when I talked to her at the 2010 edition of the Cannes Film Festival, where she was appearing in Iranian filmmaker Abbas Kiarostami’s Certified Copy.

Binoche was born in Paris in 1964 and has appeared in over 40 films including international hits like The English Patient, Chocolat, The Unbearable Lightness of Being and Dan in Real Life. She won an Oscar as Best Supporting Actress in 1996 for The English Patient, and received another nomination four years later for Chocolat. She’s been nominated 20

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for the César eight times and won it once. In total, she’s had 15 wins and another 19 nominations in her 30-year career. Not that you’d know that talking to her as she comes across as a down to earth, sensitive human being She also knows what interests her. Getting the opportunity to work with Steven Spielberg is like winning the cinematic lottery, but Binoche turned down a role in Jurassic Park for Three Colours: Blue.

In retrospect, it was a sound decision as the Polish masterpiece made her an international star and earned Binoche a Golden Lion at the 1993 Venice Film Festival, a César in France, as well as a Golden Globe nomination in the USA. Her choice to do Three Colours: Blue was a deeply personal one. “In this film my character has to deal with losing her family, an issue I’m deeply interested in,” explains Binoche. “At the time a friend of mine was actully going through a similar pain and I lived through it with her. I was very familiar with how she felt, so I did it for her.”

This personal approach seems to be a recurring theme with Binoche and it may even illustrate who she is both as an actress and a person. How does she choose her roles? “I don’t choose them, they choose me,” is her smiling answer. But she’s quick to provide a deeper insight. “Actually I do have to make choices depending on how closely I feel

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Clockwise from top: Binoche won the best actress award at this year’s Cannes Film Festival for her role in Certified Copy; Binoche with actor William Shimell and renowned Iranian director Abbas Kiarostami at Cannes; In 1995 Binoche was the face of Lancôme’s Poême fragrance and last year she became a brand ambassador for the French cosmetics firm.

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the character and whether I can reveal something hidden inside that role. Generally, I like challenging roles but it also depends on who the director is. But it’s always nice to be in demand.”

According to Binoche, Certified Copy ticked all the right boxes. “When Kiarostami asked me to work with him, I was honoured. I had worked with him before, but it was the human aspect of the role that drew me to his project. The story revolves around a man and a woman pretending to be a couple and it explores the theme in an interesting way: Is the original self always better than being somebody else, a copy?”

There’s no denying that Binoche is adventurous in her roles and always up for a challenge. She sees movies as open doors, and at every door, she changes character and life. For example, Certified Copy takes place in Tuscany, Italy, the male protagonist is the British baritone William Shimmel, and Iran’s Kiarostami is directing. How does Binoche adapt to so many places, people and directors with such vastly different backgrounds?

“I love the challenge of working abroad with people who have a different approach and way of

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doing things,” says Binoche. “It’s always an enriching experience and when it comes to adapting it’s a two way street. In France the director tends to be in total control, in the Anglo-Saxon world some form of teamwork usually prevails, and Asians have yet another approach.”

Binoche has plenty of experience to back up her opinion. “Kiarostami knows exactly what he wants, he prepares the frame and gives you the freedom to do as you like within that frame,” she says. “The Taiwanese director Hou Hsiao-Hsien is not traditional at all. When we did Flight of the Red Balloon (2007) he gave me no script. He explained to me that although the story took place in Paris, he didn’t know enough French to write a script. So he only gave me some basic instructions about each scene and I had to 24

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improvise the dialogue. It was tough at first but in the end I learnt a lot from the experience. In Tehran I worked with Kiarostami on a curious film, 114 Iranian actresses and I are sitting in a dark theatre listening to the 12th century Iranian poem, Khosrow and Shirin, but we never see what’s happening on the stage. The Iranian actresses were so dynamic and full of life, hopefully I also learnt a lot from them.”

There’s no denying that Binoche has an infectious enthusiasm, as Kiarostami can vouch for. He told her the story of Certified Copy as if it was a personal experience and Binoche was so enthusiastic and taken in by his words that it prompted Kiarostami to turn fiction into film. Was this an easy part to play?

“No,” says a laughing Binoche. “I had a lot of trouble walking up and down the cobblestone streets

Top left and right: Binoche has many talents. Besides acting she also paints and had her first exhibition in 1990.

Above left: Dancing is the latest Binoche talent to emerge.

She appeared with Akram Khan in In-I. Above: Binoche with Johnny Depp in Chocolat. The movie earned her a second Oscar nomination.

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of Tuscan towns wearing high heels!” Then she gets serious. “I was perplexed at first as the art gallery owner I play is a neurotic character who constantly changes moods. How can you be one way one minute and another the next, and make it all look natural?” Kiarostami had no such doubts in Binoche’s performance. “She did an excellent job,” he said, “a perfect performance that made everything look and sound real, not a film but a real story.”

The Cannes jury agreed with Kiarostami and promptly gave Binoche the Best Actress award.

Binoche might be an international star, but in France she’s unsurprisingly a superstar having appeared in French classics like Lovers On the Bridge and the hugely successful 2008 movie Paris. In fact, the French press have nicknamed her ‘La Binoche’.

Those who attended this year’s Cannes Film

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Festival would have noticed Binoche’s picture everywhere. But this was not zealous advertising for Certified Copy, in fact Binoche was chosen for the official festival poster. “I was contacted about it earlier in the year asking for my consent and I said yes,” explains Binoche. “But it did make me feel like I’m looking into a mirror wherever I go!”

There’s no denying that Binoche is a pretty face, after all she represented the French cosmetics firm Lancôme. And yes, she gets frequent flyer miles globetrotting from one movie set to another. But she’s also the mother of two, Raphael, 17 and Hana 11, whom she had respectively with scuba diver André Halle and actor Benoit Magimel. On top of that she’s also the devoted godmother of five Cambodian orphans. Yet she also finds time to raise funds for Médecins Sans Frontiéres, and has been a member of Aspecta, a Cambodian charity organisation, since 1992. Family is a sensitive issue with Binoche as her 26

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parents, both actor-directors, divorced when she was four. But, like everything else, it is a subject that she has thought deeply about.

“Like everybody else, when I think of family I mainly think of my children and my partner (Argentinean filmmaker Santiago Amigorena). I’ve always seen my own parents separately, but now I have my children, my sister Marion, grandparents, nephews and nieces to create that sense of family life together,” says Binoche.

And, in typical Binoche fashion, she can’t help digging deeper into her role. “Looking back, my relationships ended because my partners didn’t really make a commitment, but perhaps it was also a little my fault. When a love story ends you never really know why however much you analyse it. I insist that my children regularly see their respective father. I hope to teach them to be independent, to pursue what they love the most, to find their

Above: The paintings used in The Lovers on the Bridge were Binoche’s own. She hasn’t stopped painting on movie shoots since she received a commission from the Cahiers du Cinéma for a series of portraits in 2007.

Above left: Binoche is an international star, but in France she is a superstar. The French media gave her the affectionate nickname ‘La Binoche’.

PROFILE

own way in the world. Doing Certified Copy also gave me the opportunity to reflect on life as a couple. I asked myself loads of questions. I have two children, a job many would envy and I travel around the world. Maybe I could live as a single mother, but sharing all this with someone is a profound human need for me. I just can’t do without it even if I’m aware relationships don’t last forever today with all the temptation that is out there.”

Actress, mother, charity worker and thinker! That’s a full dance card. But Binoche has another creative talent, namely painting. The film poster of Lovers On the Bridge, as well as the paintings done by the artist Binoche plays, is her own work. In 2008 she published a book of portraits consisting of directors she has worked with, as well as the respective character she herself played.

Last year Binoche branched out into another art form when she showed theatre audiences her dancing skills in a show called In-I which toured major European capitals. Her dance partner was none other than choreographer Akram Khan.

That must have taken some courage. Binoche breaks out in yet another contagious smile. “I must admit that it did take courage. I had never danced on stage before and it was pretty daring. It was an intense show both emotionally and physically.

Normally one should choose one or the other, but not both.”

In the cinema world, Binoche is as busy as ever. An American movie, Son Of No One, where she stars alongside Al Pacino and Ray Liotta, is due for release in December. Plus she has another project in the pipeline.

“I’m working with Polish filmmaker Malgorzata Szumowska on his next film, Sponsoring. I’ll do the part of a journalist investigating the prostitution of university students,” she explains. “It’s a social theme I’m very interested in. Here we have women selling their bodies for need and/or luxury.

No emotions get in the way but unplugging the heart is a dangerous thing. It leads to exploitation, loss of independence and it’s not worth it in the end.”

Binoche once said “I’m pretty much melancholic”. Yet, there’s no denying the fact that she’s a woman who throws her heart and soul into everything she does. It was the French philosopher René Descartes who coined the famous statement ‘I think therefore I am’. That seems to fit Juliette Binoche nicely.

After all, it is La Binoche who said: “Being a famous actress may give you a sense of being important, but believe me, it’s just an illusion” and “My only ambition is to be true every moment I am living”. The thinking man’s actress might just be a philosopher as well. ❖

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GANG DAD

*NAMES HAVE BEEN CHANGED

What does a father do when his son becomes involved with a gang?

In Jerry Wheeler’s case you fight all the way, even if it means taking on South Los Angeles’ gangland, reports Jim Calio.

I first met Jerry Wheeler* when he was a refrigerator repairman in South Central Los Angeles. He was divorced from his wife, and she had custody of their two children, Charmaine and Darnel. Jerry had grown up in South Central (now called South Los Angeles), was steeped in gang lore and knew the appeal of the gangs to young boys who came from broken homes. But he never in a thousand years thought that his own son would become a ‘gangbanger,’ street talk for a member of a gang.

Then, one day, his daughter called him up and said that Darnel was hanging out with a faction, or ‘set’, of the Crips. Jerry didn’t believe her. But Charmaine, 15, insisted it was true, so Jerry bundled her into his car and drove to the street corner where she said Darnel was. And she was right – there was Darnel, then all of 12-years-old, dressed in the ‘sag’ pants and sneakers that was then the standard gang outfit, hanging around with a bunch of Crips. Jerry called from the car, and a frightened Darnel ran over. Darnel denied he was a gang member. Jerry told him to get in the car, drove him home and burned his son’s gang clothes. But a few weeks later, the same thing happened – Charmaine called Jerry and said that Darnel was at it again, hanging around with the Crips, who all dressed in blue (the Bloods, a rival gang, wore red). And again Jerry drove to the street corner, shouted at Darnel in front of the

other gang members – ‘dissed’ him – and then drove him home. “I told him I Ioved him,” says Jerry, “but I also said I’d knock his head off if I caught him wearing sag pants or a blue shirt or blue tennis shoes. I didn’t want to see anything blue. And I meant nothing.”

This pattern continued for several months, but try as he might, Jerry couldn’t pry his son away from the gangs. One day, he found a gun among Darnel’s possessions. Confronted, Darnel said he was just keeping it for a friend. “Fine,” said Jerry, grabbing it.

“Tell your friend he can come get it from me.” The ‘friend’ of course, never showed up to claim it. Jerry says that he believes the gun was used by Darnel as part of his gang initiation – that he was supposed to participate in a drive-by shooting, but the gun misfired (or Darnel was too nervous) and instead it discharged into the car door.

Things only got worse. Darnel started stealing cars with the other gangbangers, again as part of his initiation into the set. The cops called Jerry and said they were holding Darnel on stolen car charges.

Jerry closed up the refrigerator repair shop and drove down to the precinct, where the cops handed over his son. Jerry then took Darnel back to his brother’s house nearby, and, as he puts it, “coached” his son on how not to steal cars, all the while telling Darnel that he loved him, that he was his father but that he’d be

Opposite page: Detail from a painting that was confiscated during a police raid on an LA gang house.

It deals with the themes of guns, violence and death, a road that is often travelled by gang members.

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damned if he would let him join a gang. But Darnel, swayed by the other gang members, kept at it – and about the third time the cops called Jerry to come for him, Darnel, fearing what was coming, begged them not to release him to his father’s custody, which is exactly what the cops did. It happened even again and this time the cops, sensing an ally in Jerry, simply brought Darnel right to Jerry’s house. They didn’t even bother to file charges.

When I asked Darnel what the other kids thought of Jerry repeatedly showing up and yanking him off the street, he said they told him, “You don’t know how lucky you are to have an old man who cares.”

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Then, interestingly, Jerry tried a new tactic. He knew that a car parked near his house was one that Darnel and his gangbanger friends had stolen. So very early on a Saturday morning, he yanked Darnel out of bed, grabbed a can of motor oil and some rags, and told Darnel they were going to wash the car down. Jerry proceeded, with Darnel staring on in open-mouthed amazement, to wipe every inch of the car, inside and out, with motor oil, in effect erasing any fingerprints. Then Jerry gave Darnel the keys to his own car, even though Darnel was under age, and said, “If you need a car, use mine. But don’t steal.” Dumbfounded, Darnel took his dad’s car out for a ride.

After a while, Jerry, using his own particular brand of tough love and street smarts, began pulling Darnel away from the gangs. Anyone will tell you that pre-teen kids are the most susceptible to joining the gangs, and if they do, they are generally lost.

Darnel was at that critical age, but even some of

Clockwise from top left: Gang members are identified by their tattoos; Former gang members Max Maestas (L) from the ‘18th Street’, Alfred Lomas (C) from the ‘Florencia 13’ and Melvin Johnson (R) from the ‘Crips’ pose for customers during one of the LA Gang Tours in Los Angeles. Twice a month former gang members organise tours for tourists to discover the history and origin of highprofile gang areas and top crime scene locations in South Los Angeles; Police conduct a raid in South Los Angeles.

Jim Calio was the West Coast Bureau Chief for Life Magazine until it folded in 1995. After that, he remained in Los Angeles, where he continues to write travel stories, celebrity profiles and other articles for more than a dozen magazines, including The New Yorker, L’Equipe and Cosmopolitan, plus websites in the US and internationally. Several years ago, he produced a two-hour television movie based on a story written for People. It was about an airplane hijacking in Athens, The Taking of Flight 847: The Uli Derickson Story. The movie received five Emmy nominations.

The ‘Gang Dad’ story grew out of interviews Calio did with several street gang counsellors in South Central Los Angeles, which has since been renamed ‘South Los Angeles,’ but it’s only a cosmetic change – the gang problem continues unabated, no matter what they call the area.

One of the counsellors Calio talked to told him about his son and how he got him out of a gang.

The gripping story illustrates the central problem with the gang culture: Unless parents are willing to become closely involved with their children, especially the younger ones, many of these kids will end up in a gang.

Jim Ca lio

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the other gangbangers were impressed with Jerry’s determination to keep Darnel out of harm’s way.

In fact, when I asked Darnel what the other kids thought of Jerry repeatedly showing up and yanking him off the street, let alone ‘dissing’ him in front of the others, he said they told him, “You don’t know how lucky you are to have an old man who cares.”

But just when Jerry thought he had finally got his son all the way out of the gangs, the roof fell in.

Darnel was at a convenience store getting a soda when he was confronted by the girlfriend of a rival gang leader. She called Darnel a “chicken” for leaving the gangs, and then she slapped him – an obvious provocation. Darnel hit her back, and she ran. It didn’t take long for word to get out that there was a ‘contract’ out on Darnel – that the girl’s boyfriend was going to kill him. Jerry heard about this and decided to take matters into his own hands. He and his brother, who played a significant role as his backup,

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emotionally and physically, went to the rival gang leader’s house. The mother answered the door, and Jerry asked politely to see her son, the gang leader, a kid in his late teens.

When the kid appeared at the door, Jerry let loose with a roundhouse punch and decked him. He had Charmaine and Darnel in tow, standing right behind him. “If you harm either one of these kids,” he said, pointing to them, “I’ll kill you.”

Then he walked away.

The next thing Jerry knew, there was a ‘contract’ out on him. He was told that a carload of gangbangers, led by the kid he had punched out, was driving around the neighbourhood looking for him. Jerry got his brother and they both went looking for the gangbangers, thinking this was the final confrontation. Both Jerry and his brother were armed. They stood in the middle of the street, High Noon-style, and faced the approaching car which bristled with guns. Jerry says now he didn’t know what was going to happen, but at the last minute the carload of gangbangers suddenly swerved and turned down a side street, thus avoiding a bloody confrontation. That’s the last Jerry ever heard from the gang leader who was out to kill his kid.

Top: Crips gang members pose for a picture. The Crips is mainly an African-American gang, but not exclusively. There are about 30,000 to 35,000 Crips gang members who are divided into a loosely connected network called ‘sets’.

Above: Social acceptance, money, safety in numbers and respect are four main reasons that young children are lured into gangs.

But it wasn’t over yet. About a year later, Darnel, by then back in school and holding down a part time job, was standing in line at a movie theatre, talking to his girlfriend. Out of the corner of his eye, he saw a car pull up slowly and a gun come out. Instinctively, he dropped to the ground. A shot was fired, and it hit him in the leg. Jerry called me that night, steaming.

I asked him what he was going to do. I thought for sure that he would get a gun and go out looking for the shooter himself. “Nothing” he said. “I’ve done all I can. It’s up to Darnel.” And it would have been easy for Darnel to round up some of his old gangbanger buddies and seek revenge, but he didn’t do it – he had finally turned the corner, much to his father’s relief and pride. His only reminder is a slight limp because of the bullet wound.

Through all this, Jerry was still working as a refrigerator repairman, although the business suffered some because he was chasing down Darnel at all hours of the day and night. But he had also been thinking about working with kids in gangs, about trying to get them out like he had gotten his own son out. Then, one day, he walked out of his

house and saw an old man being beaten up by some members of a Crips set. The gangbangers said that the old man owed them money. Jerry jumped in the middle and challenged any of the gangbangers to take him on. They backed away – they knew him from the street and respected his authority, which is something you can’t buy, you either have it or you don’t. Jerry had it. Shortly after that, he became a street gang counsellor, trying to keep other people’s kids out of trouble – and out of gangs. ❖

Below: End of the road: A young gang member has his hair cut by an inmate before entering prison.

CULTURE

Angolan artist Kiluanji is labelled a ‘free radical’ who is known for his installations and thought provoking work. He has exhibited at the Venice Biennial, the Guangzhou Triennial and is a headliner at the Angolan Triennial.

HEALING ART

The Angolan capital Luanda is gearing up to host its second Triennial. Louise Redvers spoke to Fernando Alvim, the director of the Sindika Dokolo Foundation, and the brains behind the event set to put Angola on Africa and the world’s art map.

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he renouned Angolan artist, Fernando Alvim, has an office located deep in downtown Luanda, on the first floor of an old, faded 1940s hotel building. Several other Angolan artists and musicians share the corridor, and as soon as you leave the noisy street and enter the hotel’s cool, tiled reception area the sense of creativity is tangible.

The Triennial work area, located in the former restaurant, is divided up by striking green and grey partition walls, underneath a high white ceiling, with funky furniture.

It is almost an art exhibition in itself: bright and modern, there are colourful posters and wall charts detailing Triennial events, alongside rows of flat screen computers and works by Alvim and others, including a large framed mirror with the words ‘We Are All Post-Exotics’ which hangs in reception.

Basing the ultra-modern headquarters of Sindika Dokolo’s art foundation – which

boasts the largest collection of contemporary African art in the world – in such an old crumbling building is symptomatic of the ongoing dialogue between Portuguese-speaking Angola’s past and present, its sense of identity and perceptions of art on the continent.

“The Triennial is a cultural movement,” explained Alvim, the director of the event.

“It is the creation of a platform for artists to show and share their experiences, but to do so freely, without being conditioned by the systems of art as we have come to know them. We want it to be about an exploration of possibilities.”

This will be Luanda’s second Triennial and is, according to Alvim, much bigger and “more organic” than the first, which was staged in 2007. The growth is a natural reflection of the country’s own social and economic development.

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to navigate: there are more hotels and restaurants, better roads, a private taxi firm, a new airport, and having recently hosted the Africa Cup of Nation’s football tournament, there is more understanding of tourists.

Alvim says Luanda’s growth and development is the idea behind the Triennial’s theme: Geografias Emocionais – Arte e Afectos – or in English: Emotional Geographies – Art and Effects.

“The idea emerged from the experiences of the city and its ongoing metamorphosis,” he said, explaining that Luanda, which is home to two thirds of the country’s population, was uniquely hybrid and a strong representation of all Angola at once. “This is the Triennial of Luanda, not just the Triennial in Luanda,” he added.

The three-month free event will involve seven main exhibitions with 400 works presented through various mediums including architecture, performance and design, all linking into each other and overlapping at common sites.

There will be a Smörgåsbord of art, photography, sculpture, fashion, music, film and dance “happening” all over the Angolan capital, with outdoor billboard paintings, formal exhibitions, television and radio debates, education programmes, theatrical performances and more. A percentage of each exhibition will be retained and inserted into the next so the finale in December will represent the whole event as it has developed.

As well as pieces from established Angolans such as Nastio Mosquito, Ndilo Mutima, Yonamine and Kiluanji, there will also be a number of younger Angolan photographers, fashion designers and performers showing their work.

From overseas, artists taking part include British/Nigerian Turner Prize-winner Chris Ofili, controversial South African Kendell Geers, Ethiopian/Swiss Loulou Cherinet, New York-based Egyptian Ghada Amer, Abdoulaye Konaté from Mali, Bili Bidjocka from Cameroon and several GETTY IMAGES

war and legacy of landmines, Angola is becoming a regional powerhouse with a growing economy and continually diversifying global relationships thanks in part to its huge oil reserves. The capital Luanda, home to an estimated eight million people, has also changed significantly in the past three years as rapid post-war economic development is driving a construction boom, with much of the capital being dug-up and rebuilt.

With its stunning bay-side location, city beaches and dabs of colonial Portuguese architecture, Alvim has a stunning canvas on which to begin his work.

Although there are few formal exhibition spaces, there are plenty of interesting buildings to use, and like the foundation’s office in the old hotel, they add to the event’s conversation between past and present.

Eight years of peace have also made the city easier

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Top left: Fernando Alvim, one of Angola’s most renowned painters, is the curator of Luanda’s Art Triennial. Alvim is also the curator of the Sindika Dokolo’s collection, the biggest collection of African contemporary art in the world.

Bottom left: Turner Prize-winner Chris Ofili’s work will be shown at the Luanda Triennial.

Ofili’s work is heavily influenced by his Nigerian roots.

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Alvim admitted he did not personally like all the pieces that were to be shown but said it was about bringing together a fusion of styles and ideas to challenge the audience. “I find if there is a piece of artwork that I don’t like, often it makes me be more curious,” he explained.

“It’s almost as if I have to look deeper into it to find what it is that I don’t like about it and that creates a new process in my relationship with the art.

“I suppose that is what we are trying to do here with the Triennial because to me art is about a biochemical process, it is how we react to the aesthetics of the work and what it means to us. We want our artists to be alchemists, to create new ideas in new spaces.”

He urged those who were critical of contemporary art to ditch the old argument that “anyone could have done it”, and see instead the relationship between themselves and the work and try to feel and understand that experience. He said contemporary art was wellreceived in Angola because the people have become accustomed to accept the unusual having lived through decades of conflict before the civil war finally ended in 2002.

“Angolans have a huge experience to absorb the most incredible situations because of what we have lived through,” he said, adding: “We were in school as kids with Cuban teachers who taught us Marxism, we are very used to things we are not used to, if you know what I mean? This makes the public here more open than in many places, and Angolans are not afraid of something new.”

Well-received at home, the country’s contemporary art has also attracted critical acclaim abroad.

Following the success of the 2007 Triennial, which featured close to 100 artists and attracted 200,000 visitors, Alvim and others went on to create Check List – Luanda Pop at the 52nd Venice Biennial, and Luanda Smooth and Rave in Bordeaux in 2009, both making waves in the contemporary art world. With

Brazilian and Portuguese artists including Ayrson Heráclito and João Maria Gusmão.

There will also be several international collaborations including an exhibition from Salvador about Africans in Bahia since the 1950s and a project about the German Bauhaus geometrical design movement founded in 1919.

In addition to these shows and the speciallycommissioned pieces, Alvim is hoping to bring to Luanda from various museums around the world an exhibition of Angolan Chokwe masks, used by the tribes living in the eastern provinces of the Lundas and Moxico. “This is about the concept of values of art,” he said. “We are doing this project with the Angolan National Bank, looking at economic worth. We want to create an interaction between the aesthetics of two centuries ago, connecting to the aesthetics of the contemporary artists from Angola.”

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Top left: A visitor looks at the work ‘The Best of the Best’ by Angolan artist Yonamine who often explores the colonial relationship between Portugal and Angola.

Bottom left: Luanda’s Ilha Peninsula is the place for trendy restaurants and clubs. But the second Luanda Triennial will be spread all over the city and totally free.

CULTURE

that build up, the 2010 Triennial is likely to be a major draw for art lovers and critics from around the world. But while the curator hopes people will come to his city, he hopes they will do so in a way true to the event as an art show and not through national publicity. He reflected: “For more than 30 years the world has been saying things about us, it’s almost as if we have to be obliged to say something back to the world, like an apology.

“But I don’t see this as the point of the Triennial. We are much more concentrated on ourselves, and of course we’ll have a website and advertise what we are doing but it’s not specifically about making publicity for Luanda or for Angola.”

Repeating the edict that it is the Triennial ‘of’ Luanda, not just ‘in’ Luanda, Alvim is proud of the ambitious education programme that is proposed. More than 100 schools and 70,000 students from across the country will be introduced to art through various cross-over Triennial projects. The fact that all the shows will be free is also crucial, the artist said, to make the Triennial as inclusive as possible.

“For the development of Angola, art must be a free process,” he said. “We need to give people access without making them spend money. I would not feel good if a young person had to forego their lunch to be able to afford to see an exhibition, this is not right. For me art should be a space for reflection

and aesthetic pleasure, not something to pay for. We live in a time of much uncertainty, conflict and unrest, but art can be a vector of peace, it is something which is good for the spirit and people must have access to art without having to pay.”

Taking the concept of ‘free’ to the extreme, the curator said they were working with the Provincial Government of Luanda to create a lot of work to go outside in the open air, on billboards and metal fences of construction sites. “You will feel the art as soon as you enter the city, it will be there all around you to experience,” he said.

With just a few months to go until the Triennial’s launch, Alvim and his small team are busy on the final preparations, preparing the programmes and posters and editing their monthly Triennial magazine-come-catalogue, Uanga. There have also been several pre-events, including exhibitions and concerts, and the expectation is building.

Although rarely seen in the office or indeed in public, Luanda-based Congolese businessman Sindika Dokolo, sometimes billed as ‘Africa’s Charles Saatchi’, remains closely involved in the Triennial’s planning and can take much credit for making Angola into a contemporary art destination. ❖ The 2010 Triennial de Luanda runs from September 12 to December 19.

MADRID’S GOURMET

TOUR DE FORCE The Spanish capital is renowned for style, glamour, fashion and beauty. Plus, it also has a fantastic restaurant scene with some classy culinary temptations, reports Scott Adam

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CORBIS

TRAVEL

TRAVEL

ual s fresh and unus Chef Santi love daikon, a mild produce such as radish. flavoured Asian

hose dining in Emirates First Class or Business Class en route between Dubai and Madrid will be savouring an exclusive selection of dishes by celebrated Spanish chef Santi Santamaria. However, after landing, the gastronomic journey continues.

The 52-year-old Chef Santi, who is most famed for his three Michelin-starred restaurant Can Fabes, just north of Barcelona, explains that designing the cuisine onboard has been a delightful and highly personal culinary progression. “My cuisine is known in both Spain and the United Arab Emirates, and it’s great to be able to link the two cities together with meals for Emirates passengers.”

In true Spanish style, the dining experience will begin with tapas; those tasty morsels which are so popular in Spain, but other dishes, such as the fish suquet stew cooked Costa Brava style, or foie gras with caramelised pineapple, are reflections of the gastronomic traditions and trends from his homeland – the north eastern Spanish region of Catalonia – that has inspired his recipes for more than 25 years.

Seasonal fresh produce will direct the frequently changing onboard menus, just as it does in all his restaurants on terra firma. Chef Santi has a fondness for seafood, garden fresh vegetables and wild herbs.

“I believe in treating the base ingredients with respect and, in many cases, take a ‘barely touched’ approach to my cooking,” he explains. Creating meals to be served at high altitudes for an international airline has its challenges too. “There are so many more factors to take into account,” he muses. “People’s perceptions of flavours alter and some foods, such as salads with fresh tomato, aren’t appropriate, as they can make the passengers feel heavy.” For hungry globetrotters, there are opportunities to savour his delicious Catalan inspired cuisine at his restaurant Santceloni in Madrid, Ossiano in Dubai and at Santi in Singapore.

Santceloni boasts two Michelin stars and is a reference point for Spanish gourmands. Set in the chic surroundings of the Hotel Hesperia, the restaurant’s decor also echoes Chef Santi’s philosophy of merging old and new. Rustic farmhouse tables and cupboards are juxtaposed against ultra-modern interior fittings, which are all set around two large glassed-in atria.

The kitchen is headed by Executive Chef Óscar Valasco, who first worked with Santamaria at his Costa Brava restaurant Can Fabes, and has earned his mentor’s full confidence and respect.

Across in Dubai, the Ossiano restaurant experience takes you into an elegant blue-hued space, which is

Above: Chef Santi Santamaria has earned seven Michelin stars across his four Spanish restaurants. Many gourmands regard his food as the reference point for Spanish cuisine.

Opposite page: Madrid is about casual eating during the day and more formal at night. Gran Via, Madrid’s famous shopping street, has numerous good restaurants hidden in the side streets.

August 2010

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CORBIS

TRAVEL

Above: Fuente de Cibeles at the Plaza de Cibeles is one of Madrid’s most famous landmarks.

In the background is the famous Edificio Metropolis.

Right: Santceloni, which has two Michelin stars, reflects Santamaria’s philosophy of mixing old and new in its decor.

dominated by the famous full-wall aquarium where a variety of sea creatures parade by. Small tapas set the scene with delicacies such as apple and whitebait mince served with a dollop of caviar, or the buttery Tasmanian salmon medallions which seem to melt on the tongue. Other menu highlights are the crab meat infused with orange essence.

His latest venture, Santi, is found on the second floor of the just opened Marina Bay Sands complex in Singapore. Unlike his other restaurants, Santi will have a different style. “You’ll find Asian influences on the menu,” says Santamaria. “I don’t like to make replicas of my restaurants. I want each one to have its own character.”

Ask Chef Santi if he considers himself to be an ‘old-school’ chef and he sidesteps the question. “The aim of my job is to combine tradition, cultural values and creativity,” he says. It’s a theory that has worked wonders and earned him no less than seven Michelin stars across his four restaurants in Spain. However, if you want to get Santi Santamaria talking passionately about a topic other than food, mention art, particularly works by Spanish contemporary artist 42

Open Skies

a Brava is the Cost. His cuisine m o fr h s llfi rks Fresh shehef Santi’s hallma sophy that is o C il f h o p ith a e y n r o mporary w s a culina expresse itional and conte both tradrish. wild flou

Antoni Tápies who is known for his innovative use of thick, rough textures, tears and cuts in the canvas and collage in his paintings. “I have a profound respect for Tápies work and there are similarities between his output and mine,” Chef Santi explains. “Tápies shows the relationship with matter and his environment in his art. He paints to stir our consciousness, making us more aware of elements which go beyond mere physical appearances and become something spiritual and visceral.”

Speaking about his own kitchen team and the work of other chefs in Spain he explains, “I’m glad that young Spanish chefs are enthusiastic about getting involved in modern cuisine.” However, he stresses that, like most art forms, before you can venture into the avant-garde, you need to have a sound base in the traditional techniques. “Without the basics, such as how to cut meat and vegetables, understanding

TRAVEL INFORMATION Madrid has hot, dry summers with temperatures of 39ºC to 41ºC. Winters are usually mild, ranging from 2ºC to 10ºC with mostly sunny days. August is a great month to visit. Enjoy the long days exploring the streets before dining late after the temperatures drop.

Currency is the Euro (¤1 = US$1.23 approximately).

GETTING THERE EMIRATES fly between Dubai and Madrid daily.

Visit emirates.com or emirates-holidays.com for more details.

RESOURCES For complete listings of where to stay and eat, as well as what’s on, visit the official Madrid Tourism website esmadrid.com or turismomadrid.es. The central Tourist Office is located in Plaza Mayor 27 (+34 915 881 636).

TRAVEL

Above: Sergi Arola’s Gastro restaurant has two Michelin stars. The restaurant, close to Paseo de la Castellana, offers four tasting menus as well as á la carte.

Below: Spanish Chef Ferran Adriá’s El Bulli restaurant was scored as the world’s best restaurant in the San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2009, making it four years in a row.

cooking temperatures and correct seasoning, you cannot move on or capture the diner’s imagination.”

He also highlights that it is not easy to maintain a three-Michelin-star rating for restaurants these days – something he has done year after year since Can Fabes was first awarded the accolade in 1994.

“The world is turning into a different place with globalisation and the present economic crisis affecting restaurants worldwide,” he says. Although success seems to be his, he is not resting on his laurels this year. Creating the menus for Emirates over the coming months and his new restaurant Santi in Singapore will be a priority, as well as finishing his latest recipe book.

If you have discovered the joys of Santi Santamaria’s cuisine onboard, then don’t miss the opportunity to enjoy more dishes at his restaurant Santceloni in the heart of Madrid. Executive chef, Óscar Velasco, has stuck to his mentor’s guiding principles and based the menu on the best seasonal produce. Santceloni’s team’s strong beliefs in excellence have been rewarded with two Michelin stars. Truffles, including the rare

white variety, wild mushrooms, seafood and game give the menu a varied hue as the months pass by.

Must try dishes for the gourmand are razor clams garnished with caviar and green beans, or veal terrine with foie, pistachios and puréed figs. But make sure you keep room to try some of the amazing selection of cheeses from across Europe.

There are many other tastes to discover in Madrid. Catalan chef, Sergi Arola’s two Michelin starred restaurant Gastro, found in a quiet street not far from the bustling thoroughfare Paseo de la Castellana, offers plenty of flexibility with its four

TRAVEL INFORMATION WHERE TO EAT SANTCELONI, Paseo de la Castellana 57 (+34 912 108 840; restaurantesantceloni.com). Gastronomic menu from €132 per person.

SERGI AROLA GASTRO, Calle Zurbano 3 (+34 913 102 169; sergiarola.es). Tasting menus from €105 to €160 per person.

LA TERRAZA DEL CASINO, Calle de Alcalá 15 (+34 915 321 275; casinodemadrid.es). Set menus from €128 per person.

FORA BY RAMÓN FREIXA, Calle Claudio Coello 67 (+34 917 818 262; ramonfreixamadrid.com). Tasting menus from €65 to €95 per person.

WHERE TO STAY HESPERIA, Paseo de la Castellana 57 (+34 912 108 800; hesperia.com). Relax in five star luxury in a contemporary setting.

GETTY IMAGES

WESTIN PALACE, Plaza de las Cortes 7 (+34 913 608 000; westinpalacemadrid.com). Enjoy the sumptuous rooms and suites, which are a stone’s throw from all the major museums.

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HOTEL SELENZA, Calle Claudio Coello 67 (+34 917 810 173; selenzahoteles.es). Driven by design, this boutique hotel offers a lush garden terrace as well as the restaurant Fora by Ramón Freixa.

TRAVEL

tasting menus, as well as ‘á la carte’. During the day, pop in to enjoy lighter fare, including steamed clams drizzled with a delicate vinaigrette sauce, or a summer favourite, the gourmet vegetable wrap. Evenings are more formal and, although the menu changes every two months, there is usually an emphasis on fresh seafood and fish. Dishes which have helped him maintain his two Michelin stars are the slow-cooked sole crusted with black olives and accompanied by artichokes, or the stingray fin served with stewed green lentils. A juicy prime beef steak comes with a variety of tantalising morsels including Granny Smith gelée, celery marmalade, a hot apple and mascarpone wafer sandwich and apple and celery ice-cream. Desserts are equally imaginative.

Don’t miss the white chocolate and truffle mousse served with a hot infusion made from cocoa and rosemary.

Master chef Ferran Adrià, whose restaurant El Bulli has been repeatedly named ‘Best restaurant in the world’, is the gastronomic consultant for the two-Michelin-starred La Terraza del Casino, found just a short stroll from Madrid’s emblematic La Puerta del Sol square. However, the man creating the magic on a day-to-day basis is Chef Paco Roncero. During the summer months guests can enjoy the outdoor area and dine alfresco under the stars. La Terraza del Casino offers a truly

original gastronomic selection including the popular small Tapi dishes, which comprise some surprising combinations including oyster tartar and shredded foie gras with eel. Chef Roncero skilfully combines textures, contrasting temperatures and flavours throughout the menu. The desserts, which include small treats with chocolate mint and peach, are often whimsical creations that will leave you truly satisfied but wanting to return.

Expect the unexpected at the one-Michelin-starred Fora, situated in Madrid’s sophisticated Salamanca district. The stunning interior incorporates both Baroque and contemporary elements. Fora’s menu and the dish presentation are, while highly refined, also fun. Chef Ramón Freixa, who hails from Catalonia, explains that he aims for the dining experience “to be entertaining.” The gastronomic brilliance begins with crunchy vegetable wafers hanging from a fine wire between two chrome supports. Follow on with tapas-style snacks, which may include Chef Ramón’s highly original ‘deconstructed hamburger’– a delicious mix of duck meat, green mustard ice-cream, Ibiazábal cheese and crunchy bread.

Menu highlights are the roasted red mullet served with two side dishes; brioche toast with bay leaf and anchovy, and red peppers and fried bread. Such are the tastes of Madrid! ❖

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48hours

SINGAPORE

Dynamic and endlessly fascinating, Singapore is an exciting blend of east and west, old and new. This small island-city state brimming with unbridled energy is also one of the greenest cities in the world, with rainforest and wetland reserves on its doorstep, reports Gilly Pickup.

WHY GO? Singapore is a beacon of efficiency, high-technology and cleanliness. It has a wealth of top-class, stylish restaurants, hotels, no shortage of state-of-the-art spas and arguably the best shopping in Southeast Asia. Nightlife is full on and fizzing too. Simply put, Singapore is a veritable feast for the senses, a heady mixture of the familiar and the exotic. Sometimes it is criticised for its seemingly petty regulations, including the banning of chewing gum, but crime is virtually unknown making this one of the world’s safest places to visit.

WHAT TO DO Nature lovers will enjoy the Botanic Gardens, an oasis in the city’s heart. A magnificent plant collection spans over 52 hectares and include the Evolution Garden and the Ginger Garden. If you love orchids – and who doesn’t – the National Orchid Garden is a must see with its huge displays of sprawling blooms.

Still on the nature theme, come face to face with birdlife at the Jurong Bird Park, home to Southeast Asia’s largest bird collection. Explore the world’s largest walk-in aviary, the habitat of around 1,500 flying birds. Popular with visitors are the endangered Bali Mynahs. In the wild they number only 50, but the park has four dedicated sanctuaries that house them.

The goal is to breed them and when ready, release them back into the wild to bolster their dwindling population.

While you’re out and about, take a trip along Singapore River on a bumboat. These were once used to ferry goods to and from larger ships moored in the harbour, but today they offer an excellent way to see the contrasting architectural styles of the city.

The commentary provides a history lesson as you glide by colonial-era buildings and modern skyscrapers.

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Shoppers tend to gravitate towards the famed retail stretch of Orchard Road with its vast, air-conditioned malls. Get your fix of glossy names like Versace, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and every other couture label you can think of, then head to Chinatown where the early Chinese settlers once worked and lived. Seething with vitality, shops offer the real ethnic deal and sell antiques, fabrics in rainbow colours, snacks, herbs and jewellery.

Pay a visit to Southeast Asia’s first Universal Studios theme park on Sentosa Island. This family orientated resort offers everything from sports events, arts festivals and concerts to fun rides based on popular movies like Madagascar and Shrek. Visit Sci-Fi city, explore the Lost World, the mystical land of Far Far Away and Marine Life Park where you can snorkel with rays and come face to fin with some of the ocean’s most fascinating creatures.

WHERE TO STAY The Ritz-Carlton is no ordinary hotel. For starters, treasures on view include works by Frank Stella, Andy Warhol and Dale Chihuly, Rainer Gross’ geometric compositions and the botanicals of Robert Zakanitch. Set in just under three hectares of landscaped grounds it exudes a sense of peace, despite its busy Marina Bay location. (RitzCarlton Hotel, Raffles Avenue, tel: +65 6337 8888, ritzcarlton.com.)

Singapore’s most famous hotel is Raffles, the timeless symbol of colonial opulence. It dates from 1887 and is named after Singapore’s founder, Opposite page (clockwise from top): The Sentosa chair lift links the entertainment hub of Sentosa Beach with the Imbiah Lookout area; A 30-minute bumboat ride along the Singapore River is a great way to explore the city’s heart; There’s no shortage of food courts serving cheap but tasty food; Orchard Road is world famous for its upmarket shopping; The Singapore Botanical Gardens, which was founded in 1859, covers 52 hectares; Escape the city and enjoy some sand and sea on Sentosa Island; A view towards the Esplanade. In the foreground is the new Esplanade concert hall that is modelled on the spiky durian fruit; The Chinese Garden is a park in Jurong East; Endangered Bali Mynahs are being bred at the Jurong Bird Park.

CORBIS CORBIS

48hours

TRAVEL INFORMATION Although the wettest months are November to January and the driest May to July, there is actually very little year-round variation in weather patterns.

Don’t forget to take a brolly with you though, unexpected tropical downpours happen quite often!

(S$1= US$0.72 approximately).

GETTING THERE EMIRATES flies three times daily between Dubai and Singapore. See emirates.com or emiratesholidays.com for more information.

RESOURCES Get all the information you need from the Singapore Tourism Board (yoursingapore.com).

FURTHER READING LONELY PLANET’S SINGAPORE and INSIGHT GUIDE SINGAPORE are helpful books, which include restaurant recommendations, where to stay, what to see and local information.

Top: Trishaws, or pedal rickshaws, were introduced to Singapore in 1914 and quickly spread through Southeast Asia. An hour-long journey to explore Sentosa Island costs around S$36.

Above: The Singapore Flyer, which is 165 metres high, provides the perfect vantage point to admire the city skyline.

Sir Stamford Raffles. Famed for its luxurious accommodation and superb restaurants, the hotel houses a tropical garden courtyard, museum and Victorian-style theatre. (Raffles Hotel, 1 Beach Road, Tel: +65 6337 1886, raffles.com)

WHAT TO EAT AND DRINK Pack your appetite as food is taken mega-seriously here. Dishes you are likely to discover include chilli crab, (crabs cooked in thick gravy with a tomato and chilli base) and barbecued stingray, a dish unique to Singapore which comes smothered in sambal, a chillibased sauce, and served on a banana leaf. Fish head curry is a red snapper fish head cooked with vegetables in curry sauce. Granted, it may not appeal to everyone, but it turns up in dining venues everywhere. The traditional accompaniment to this local delicacy is a glass of ‘calamansi’ (local lime juice).

Newton Food Centre is one of Singapore’s favourite supper hotspots with food stalls set round a bustling square. Relax and watch the world go by while you sip a drink and tuck into a plate of Hokkien mee (wok-fried noodles with shrimps and squid). It is safe to eat from the street vendors here as all purveyors of food are subject to government inspection.

The House of Peranakan Cuisine (10 Claymore Road), has a thatched roof stage and kitschy mannequins dotted around. Heritage cuisine is served in bubbling claypots and vintage crockery.

Peranakan cuisine is one of the most complex to

For a lighthearted look at local dialect ‘Singlish’, get a copy of the COXFORD SINGLISH DICTIONARY, which tells you all you need to know about ‘Singapore English’ (singlishdictionary.com).

FAST FACT The zippy Mass Rapid Transport (MRT) train is a clean, safe, inexpensive way to get round. Most major tourist attractions are located within easy walking distance of a station.

prepare and you’ll appreciate this when you see the Nonya flower crabs, assam tiger prawns and itik sioh (stewed duck).

Wine and dine amid tranquil tree-lined paths at Rochester Park. This heritage area bursts with swish restaurants housed in whitewashed colonial villas. Check out One Rochester, the decor is stunning, and it has a relaxed garden area where you can eat alfresco.

TRIP TIP Take a trishaw ride. This traditional three-wheeled mode of transport carries two passengers and is a novel way to see Chinatown and other ethnic areas up close.

MUST DO Take a trip on the Singapore Flyer (singaporeflyer. com) on Raffles Avenue. At 165 metres, the giant observation wheel provides breathtaking views of Singapore’s skylines and Marina Bay. One leisurely circuit in a capsule the size of a bus (UV protection in the glass shields passengers from the hot sun) takes 30 minutes. ❖

Malaysia Contemporary Art Tourism Festival

July 1 – September 30, 2010

"Contemporary art is a passion that unites discerning travellers and tourists alike from all corners of the world..."

Dato' Sri Dr. Ng Yen Yen Minister of Tourism, Malaysia Malaysia’s contemporary art scene is a reecƟon of the country itself. It is varied, mulƟcultural and resists stringent deniƟon.

Just like Malaysia, a naƟon whose historic sites, towers of modernity and glimpses of nature promise surprises and memories on every visit.

For the rst Ɵme ever, Malaysia’s Ministry of Tourism hosts the 1Malaysia Contemporary Art Tourism FesƟval.

The fesƟval encompasses exhibiƟons, seminars, compeƟƟons and other fringe events at various locaƟons around the country.

Come see how Malaysia’s renowned contemporary arƟsts have expertly woven her history, naƟonal idenƟty, landscapes and people into painƟngs, sculptures, photographs, installaƟons and more.

Whether it is abstract works that channel arƟsƟc soul, mixed media art that shows oī arƟsƟc ingenuity or guraƟve works that display arƟst prowess, Malaysia has it all.

Fatamorgana #2 The State of Confusion > 2006, oil on canvas, 244 x 150cm

The 1Malaysia Contemporary Art Tourism FesƟval is not to be missed. Visit Malaysia and take part in history.

Events in Kuala Lumpur, Melaka, Johor and Penang | JUL 1 – SEPT 30, 2010 | MCAT ExhibiƟon 2010

Art Seminar

Galeria Sri Perdana 3 July – 30 September 2010 www.arkib.gov.my

Starhill Gallery July – September 2010 www.starhillgallery.com

Malaysia Tourism Centre (MaTic) 15 July – 30 September 2010 www.mtc.gov.my

Galeri Seni Rakyat (Folk Art Gallery) 1 August – 30 September 2010 www.perzim.gov.my

Balai Seni Lukis Negara (NaƟonal Art Gallery) July – September 2010 www.artgallery.gov.my

i-City Contemporary Art ExhibiƟon 11 August – 9 September 2010

Galeri Petronas (Petronas Gallery) July – September 2010 www.galeripetronas.com.my

IMCAS 2010 Danga City Mall July – September 2010 www.dangacitymall.com

MINISTRY OF TOURISM MALAYSIA Menara Dato' Onn, Putra World Trade Centre, 45 Jalan Tun Ismail, 50480 Kuala Lumpur Tel: 603-2693 7111 www.motour.gov.my www.tourismmalaysia.gov.my

The Inuence of Mahathirism on Contemporary Art MaTic, Jalan Ampang 20 – 24 September 2010

The Aliya & Farouk Khan CollecƟon Art Seminar Galeri Seni Rakyat, Melaka 1 – 3 August 2010

IMCAS 2010 –The Aliya & Farouk Khan CollecƟon Art Seminar Danga City Mall, Johor 27 September – 1 October 2010

Malaysia Contemporary Art Tourism Seminar Penang 18 – 19 August 2010

A Curatorial Discourse on the Making of an Artwork 12 Gallery, Kuala Lumpur 8 – 10 July 2010

MALAYSIA’S FIRST EVER ART AUCTION Wisma Bentley Music PJU 7/2, MuƟara Damansara Petaling Jaya 1-8 August 2010

dubaidiary

THE HOT LIST

UPCOMING EVENTS

The best nightlife, spas and restaurants.

IFTARS Ewaan This Ramadan there is no better place to enjoy an alluring Arabian experience than at the Iftar buffet at Ewaan. The interior design and the bustling authentic atmosphere promise a perfect Arabian night. Iftar buffet is from sunset to 9pm The Palace – The Old Town, Downtown Dubai, Tel: +971 4 428 7951

Armani/Mediterraneo Savour breathtaking views of the Dubai Fountain while breaking fast at this elegant yet relaxed new restaurant. The Iftar buffet serves the finest cuisine from the Mediterranean region and beyond.

Armani Hotel, Burj Khalifa, Tel: +971 4 367 3699

The Terrace ‘Ramadan Nights at The Terrace’ offers the chance to enjoy a variety of gourmet delights as you relax with friends and family by the beautiful waterfront of the Dubai Creek. A full Ramadan Sohour menu is available.

Park Hyatt, Deira, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 317 2222

SPAS Caracalla Spread over three floors, Caracalla is well worth a visit for the Roman-themed baths, excellent gym and the deft ability of the highly trained therapists to ease away city stress and leave you thoroughly rejuvenated.

Le Royal Méridien, Dubai Marina, Tel: +971 4 399 5555

The Spa at The Address Dubai Mall Flawless service, expert therapists, a broad selection of treatments and a great terrace pool are just a few reasons to visit this top class spa. All within the understated design elegance synonymous with Address hotels.

The Address Dubai Mall, Downtown Dubai, Tel: +971 4 438 8888

Urban Male Lounge This brand new counterpart to the DIFC spa continues its successful formula of providing male indulgence in looking and feeling sharp.

With an extensive treatment menu, you can enjoy a hand and foot massage, hair cut, beard trim, facials and more – all while watching your own personal TV. Mall of the Emirates, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 406 8999

RESTAURANTS Andiamo! Italian food with flare and a casual yet exuberantly stylish interior distinguish Andiamo as a great place to eat. An authentic wood-burning oven cooks superb pizzas and the meats, pasta and seafood are equally good.

Grand Hyatt, Garhoud, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 317 2222

West Beach Bistro This new eaterie on The Walk presents fine gastronomical fare from a chef that trained with Gordon Ramsey in the UK before bringing his gastronomic talents to Dubai. Enjoy the understated design, wafting jazz and refined innovative flavours.

Mövenpick Hotel Jumeirah Beach, Dubai Marina, Tel: +971 4 449 8888

La Parrilla always features in restaurant awards for its steaks and Latin American cuisine. The accolades are well deserved as the meat here is world class and cooked to perfection. The 25th floor view, live band and tasteful design are just bonuses.

Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 406 8999

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RAMADAN ART BAZAAR AUGUST 15 TO SEPTEMBER 9 As part of celebrating Ramadan this year, the renowned Al Ghaf Gallery in Abu Dhabi is presenting the Ramadan Art Bazaar. The event gives 24 emerging artists the opportunity to showcase their creations. With prices capped at a maximum of Dhs4,000, it offers an exciting chance to own an original work by up-and-coming artists.

Viewing hours are 9am – 1pm and 8pm – 11pm Saturday to Thursday. ghafgallery.blogspot.com ‘BLUE SKIE’D AND CLEAR’ – EXPANDING THE PHOTOGRAPHIC HORIZON UNTIL SEPTEMBER 15 Carbon 12 is a popular international art gallery in Dubai that focuses on international contemporary fine art. This group exhibition features the photographic work of Birgit Graschopf, Yuko Ichikawa, Maria Maeser, Jamie Baldridge, Maximillian Pramatarov and Hazem Mahdy. carbon12dubai.com RAMADAN FAIR AUGUST 19 – SEPTEMBER 11 Taking place in the neighbouring emirate of Sharjah, the Ramadan Fair is inspired by the grand celebrations of Eid Al Fitr (breaking the fast).

Located in the Expo Centre Sharjah, it is a multi-product consumer fair with family entertainment. Expo Centre Sharjah is easily accessible from Dubai International Airport. ramadanfair.ae WRITTEN EXCLUSIVELY FOR EMIRATES MAGAZINE.

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1

SONY NWZ-A845 | US$230 | sony.com

This is Sony’s attempt to quash the iPod Nano. It’s in the same price territory as its 16GB counterpart, but has a bigger, OLED screen and packs a decent pair of bundled buds (worth about US$100). Movies look crisp and clear, and the sound, via the ace noise cancelling earphones, is second only to Apple’s ’Pod. 2

CREATIVE ZEN X-FI STYLE | US$150 | creative.com

This pint-sized portable has an impressive gigabyteto-pound ratio with cutesy stylings. It ticks all the boxes, apart from Mac compatibility, with extensive format support, FM radio and mic with a tiny (read piddly) speaker. It can play AVI vids with clarity, but the Sony and iPod dig up more detail. Still, for this price, you can hardly complain.

3

APPLE IPOD NANO | US$215 | apple.com

The fifth-generation Nano looks quite like its predecessor, but its list of extras includes a bigger screen, FM radio and video camera. Get rid of the bundled buds and the Nano sounds better than any of the players here. Videos are sharp, although the screen can be a bit small for films. Still, the iTunes store is stocked with them as well as TV shows and music.

4

3

ARCHOS 3 VISION | US$115 | archos.com

It only has 8GB, but the Archos 3 Vision is great value.

An FM transmitter, FM radio and recording from radio or built-in mic are spec highlights. Music is upbeat and fun (although you’ll have to upgrade the earphones) and movies are watchable even if the colours apper slightly faded. Unfortunately, the touchscreen’s virtual scroll-wheel is a tad inaccurate.

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Open Skies

4 2

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departure

The Pink Lake

CORBIS

●

The Pink Lake ● DAKAR

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SENEGAL

O

ne of the stranger sights in Senegal is Lake Retba, which is also known as Lac Rose thanks to its pink hue caused by cyanobacteria in the water. The lake is also known for its high salt content which, like that of the Dead Sea, allows people to float with no swimming required. Every litre of water contains around 280 grammes of salt, so it is no surprise that Lake Retba supports a salt mining industry. The salt is collected from the bottom of the shallow lake and transported by boat to shore where it is packaged and sent to market. ❖

CO-ORDINATES ARE FOR ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSES ONLY.

LATITUDE: 14° 15’ 19” LONGITUDE: -17° 14’ 2”

NEW JOH N N I E WALKE R DOU B LE B LACK 速

TM

DISCOVE R A MOR E I NTE NSE TASTE OUR MASTER BLENDER INTRODUCES A DEEPER, SMOKIER AND MORE INTENSE WHISKY, BY EXPERTLY BLENDING THE MORE POWERFUL, NATURALLY SMOKY WEST COAST FLAVOURS WITH THOSE MATURED IN CHARRED OAK CASKS. THESE FLAVOURS ARE HARNESSED TOGETHER TO CREATE AN EXCEPTIONAL RESULT. A BOLD NEW ADDITION TO THE JOHNNIE WALKER 速 BLACK LABEL速 FAMILY.

P L E AS E D R I N K R E S P O N S I B LY

The JOHNNIE WALKER, BLACK LABEL and DOUBLE BLACK words, the Striding Figure device and associated logos are trade marks. 息John Walker & Sons 2010.

Emirates News ■

Emvironment

■

Comfort in the Air

■

U.S. Customs & Immigration Forms

■

Route Map

New Order for Boeing 777-300ERs Emirates has ordered 30 more Boeing 777300ER aircraft, worth around US$9.1 billion (AED 33.4 billion) in list prices, adding to its fleet of 71 777-300ERs previously ordered, of which 53 are currently in service.

The signing took place at last month’s Farnborough Air Show and was witnessed by His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Prime Minister and Vice President of the UAE and Ruler of Dubai. His Highness Sheikh Ahmed bin Saeed Al Maktoum, Chairman and Chief Executive, Emirates Airline and Group, and Jim

Albaugh, President and CEO of Boeing Commercial Airplanes, were signatories.

Emirates once again affirmed its aim to become a global leader in air travel, with Dubai as a central gateway, and signals clear confidence in the growth of aviation.

The 777-300ER will be operated with three classes with eight First Class suites, 42 Business Class seats and 310 Economy Class seats plus a cargo payload of 20.1 tonnes. Emirates has 86 777s in service – three -200s, six -200ERs, 10 -200LRs, 12 -300s, 53 -300ERs and two freighters.

Above: (From left) Jim Albaugh, President and CEO, Boeing Commercial Airplanes, H.H. Sheikh Ahmed bin Saeed Al Maktoum, Chairman and Chief Executive, Emirates Airline and Group, H.H. Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Prime Minister and Vice President of the United Arab Emirates and Ruler of Dubai, and David Joyce, President and CEO, GE Aviation.

August 2010

59

Emirates news

Go There!

Medieval castles lend a fairytale atmosphere to Prague.

Emirates Holidays is offering tailor-made packages to Amsterdam and Prague following the launch of Emirates’ direct flights to both cities from Dubai.

Amsterdam, capital of The Netherlands, is famed for its diversity, relaxed attitude and rich cultural history.

Prague, capital of the Czech Republic and a UNESCO World Heritage site, has an almost fairytale quality with its medieval roots, castles and cobbled courtyards.

Emirates Holidays’ Economy Class packages to Amsterdam from Dubai range from AED6,289 to AED9,700 per person. Offers are valid to 31st August 2010.

Economy Class packages to Prague from Dubai range from AED 3,914 per person to AED4,075 per person. Business Class packages range from AED12,786 per person to AED12,947 per person. Offers are valid to 12th September 2010.

Each package includes return flights with Emirates, three nights’ accommodation on a twin-sharing basis with breakfast, airport transfers, room tax and service charges. Packages to Prague also include a half-day city tour.

Skywards members will receive up to 20 per cent bonus Miles when they book these packages. Terms and conditions apply.

For more information, contact Emirates Holidays on 800 5252 (from Dubai), visit emirates-holidays.com or contact preferred travel agents.

Dakar Offer Senegal is famous for its hospitality but Emirates customers now have another reason to visit this West African nation – a free hotel stay in Dubai to break their journey.

To celebrate the launch of its new route to Dakar on 1st September 2010, Emirates is offering First Class and Business Class passengers a complimentary stay at a leading hotel in Dubai, plus a free 96 hour visa, when they book a return flight to the Senegalese capital.

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First Class passengers will receive a free two-night stay at the five-star Jumeirah Emirates Towers Hotel, while Business Class travellers will be offered a one-night complimentary stay. The offer applies to return journeys taken by passengers travelling exclusively with Emirates between the 1st and the 30th of September.

Emirates news

Calling All Artists!

Cut the Cost of Excess Baggage

A passenger who has purchased additional baggage service checks in at the airport.

Passengers travelling on Emirates can cut the cost of excess baggage.

Just pre-pay online at emirates.com and you can reduce what you pay for additional bags by as much as 15 per cent.

Here’s how it works. First weigh your bags. Then go to Manage Your Booking on the emirates.com website to buy your extra kilos.

On routes that charge for excess baggage by weight, you can buy an extra five, 10, 15, 20 or 25 kilos. On

routes that charge by the piece, you can buy one, two or three additional bags of up to 32 kilos each Purchases are non-refundable and non-transferable and must be made between 24 hours and 90 minutes before departure.

Terms and conditions apply. This facility is available on most routes but is not available for departures from just a few select cities. Full details are available at Manage Your Booking on emirates.com.

Emirates launched a competition last month to find promising artists whose winning works will be featured on the Gold, Silver and Blue membership cards of Skywards, the airline’s frequent flyer programme. In addition, the winners will each receive US$5,000 and will be flown to Dubai where they can display the winning artwork and their portfolio at the Art Dubai fair.

But hurry! The closing date for entries is 31st August. The winners will be announced on 25th September.

Skywards launched new-look membership cards in January featuring works by Damien Hirst, Christopher Ries and Simone Cenedese. Now, the airline is looking for fresh artworks to replace them.

For Gold cards, the challenge is to create a work of art that embodies opulence and luxury. For Silver, the winning work will reflect sophistication, intelligence and richness. For Blue, Emirates is looking for something edgy, surprising and fresh that challenges expectations.

For full details and to enter the competition, go to ourfutureartists.com.

Emirates Launches New Lounge Emirates recently celebrated the opening of its latest luxury lounge in Shanghai. The lounge serves the airline’s First Class and Business Class passengers and Gold members of Skywards travelling from Pudong International Airport.

This is the 27th lounge to open on the Emirates network and the second in China after Beijing. Emirates currently operates non-stop flights between Dubai and Shanghai twice daily.

Located in the International Departure Concourse next to Gate 75, the new lounge is the first dedicated lounge in Terminal 2 and the only one in the airport that offers an extensive menu of complimentary hot and cold gourmet dishes, plus a full bar service.

The lounge can hold 165 passengers at any one time. Its luxurious amenities include designer shower rooms, cream leather couches, 52-inch plasma TVs and a fully equipped Business Centre with internet access and wi-fi.

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The new Emirates Lounge at Shanghai Pudong International Airport.

Tempting Offer for Skywards Gold Members The Meydan Hotel, overlooking Dubai’s Meydan racetrack, raises the bar for five-star service, style and sheer indulgence. All of which makes the hotel’s offer to Skywards Gold members seriously attractive.

The offer includes a three-day stay at two-day rates, a 50-per-cent discount when dining at Prime, Shiba and Farriers restaurants, and a 20-per-cent discount on Friday Brunch at Farriers (these discounts are not applicable during horse-racing weekends). In addition, there’s a 10-per-cent discount offered on gym membership and a complimentary 30-minute massage in the hotel’s spa upon joining.

The offer is valid from 25th July 2010 to 25th July 2011.

To make reservations, please call +971 4 364 7147 or email meydanreservations@jumeirah.com

Football for Hope As the 2010 FIFA World CupTM final reached its climax in Johannesburg last month, four members of Emirates’ cabin crew discovered a whole Emirates cabin crew at the Football for Hope centre in the township of new ball game.

Khayelitsha, Cape Town.

They visited the Football for Hope Centre, in the Cape Town township of Khayelitsha, which is funded by FIFA and the six Official FIFA Partners – of which Emirates is one. The girls (Carolina Rodriguez from Argentina, Joanna Boyd from New Zealand, Vivienne Seiler from Canada and Claire Overton from the UK) saw for themselves how Emirates has helped to deliver long-term benefits through its sponsorship of the FIFA World Cup. The Football for Hope Centre in Cape Town, run by Grassroot Soccer, is the first of 20 to be built throughout Africa as part of the legacy of the 2010 FIFA World Cup. The aim of each centre is to promote public health education in disadvantaged communities through a shared love of football.

The Cape Town centre has a superb turf pitch, which is the main attraction but, in addition to football, it offers a strong education programme with special emphasis on teaching about HIV and AIDS. So young people not only get to enjoy the beautiful game, but learn how to develop a healthy lifestyle as well.

‘Emvironment’ (definition): Emirates’ environmental programme – a wide range of initiatives aimed at continuously improving our environmental performance.

In the air and on the ground, the Emirates Group is committed to acting sustainably in the interests of our customers, our business, the natural environment and the 100 plus destinations that we serve worldwide. The Group has already achieved numerous environmental milestones – each month we will bring you the latest news of our efforts and commitment towards eco-efficiency and sustainability. In this edition, we look at the world’s rapidly disappearing biodiversity and Emirates’ efforts to protect it.

BIODIVERSITY – WHAT’S THE PROBLEM? Biodiversity or ‘species richness’ is defined as the variety of life forms on the planet, or within a given area. The Global Taxonomy Initiative believes that of the 13.8 million different species estimated to be on Earth, only 1.7 million (12.8%) have actually been identified. Of those that have been identified, less than 1% have been studied.

The International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) estimates that biodiversity loss is now occurring at 1,000 times the natural rate. Apart from the ethical issue of species extinction there are also huge commercial and human health implications as many species play critical roles in ecosystem health. Many other species are important potential sources of life-saving medicines. Key threats to biodiversity include: ● Habitat loss and degradation ● Introduction of invasive alien species ● Over-exploitation of natural resources ● Pollution and diseases ● Human-induced climate change

Al Maha Desert Resort & Spa is located on a small portion of the reserve and allows guests to experience the natural beauty of the DDCR. The resort has been built using sustainable building principles and helps fund ongoing conservation works in the DDCR.

WHAT IS EMIRATES DOING ABOUT IT? Emirates is reducing its impact on the environment by investing billions of dollars in the latest, fuel-efficient, low emissions, low-noise aircraft. As part of our ‘Emvironment’ programme we are leading the way in reducing waste, and maximising energy and water efficiency in ground operations.

Emirates has also pioneered the concept of conservationbased luxury tourism projects, with developments in the UAE, Australia and the Seychelles. These conservation projects take on a special significance in 2010, the United Nation’s International Year of Biodiversity.

EMIRATES WOLGAN VALLEY RESORT & SPA – AUSTRALIA Emirates recently opened its second conservationbased luxury tourism development in Australia’s Wolgan Valley.

The resort is located on just 2% of a magnificent 1,600 hectare conservation area, within the World Heritagelisted Blue Mountains region. The area is home to the incredibly rare Wollemi Pine (Wollemia nobilis), a living fossil plant.

As well as using sustainable building practices to protect and minimise impacts on the local environment, the A$125 million project also included the planting of nearly 200,000 indigenous plant species. Parts of the site are also enclosed with specially built ‘feral-proof’ fencing. These protected habitats will be used for the re-introduction of endangered marsupial species such as Potoroos and Bettongs.

EMIRATES AL MAHA DESERT RESORT & SPA - DUBAI The wadis, deserts and coasts of the United Arab Emirates are extremely fragile ecosystems, with 63 endangered animal species in the UAE alone (IUCN, 2010). Emirates worked with the Dubai government to set up the 225km2 Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve (DDCR), the UAE’s first nature reserve, which covers almost five per cent of Dubai’s total land area. The DDCR is home to a number of threatened species, such as the Arabian Oryx, Gordon’s Wildcat and the Arabian Red Fox.

EMIRATES CAP TERNAY RESORT & SPA – SEYCHELLES The latest Emirates conservation project is the Cap Ternay resort, on the spectacular north-western tip of Mahé Island in the Seychelles. Adjoining the Cap Matoopa Nature Reserve and Baie Ternay Marine Sanctuary, the site is surrounded by areas of ecological significance. The resort will include extensive ecological restoration works, while adhering to strict sustainable design principles.

If you require any further information regarding our Emvironment programme, please go to the ‘About Emirates’ tab on emirates.com or email Paul Zissermann, Manager Environment Affairs at paul.zissermann@emirates.com 64

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Comfort in the air To help you arrive at your destination feeling fine and refreshed, Emirates have developed this collection of helpful travel tips.

Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you to enjoy your journey and time onboard with Emirates today.

BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY

DURING THE FLIGHT

❖ Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition. ❖ Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications? ❖ Get a good nights rest before the flight. ❖ Eat lightly and sensibly.

❖ Sucking and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent. ❖ Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy. ❖ Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently. ❖ Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

AT THE AIRPORT

WHEN YOU ARRIVE

❖ Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in. ❖ Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress. ❖ Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

❖ Try some light exercise or read if you can’t sleep after arrival at your destination. It generally takes the body’s biological clock approximately one day to adjust per time zone crossed.

SMART TRAVELLER

Rehydrate with water or juices frequently. Drink tea and coffee in moderation.

Loosen your clothing, remove your jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body that constricts your blood circulation.

Light exercises on your lower legs and calf muscles encourages blood flow and helps reduce muscle fatigue and swelling in the feet.

Carry only essential items that you will need during your flight.

Cabin air is drier than normal therefore we recommend that you wear glasses during flights.

Apply a good quality skin moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out due to the drier cabin air.

FOR MORE TIPS AND ADVICE TO HELP YOU TO ENJOY YOUR FLIGHT AND ARRIVE AT YOUR DESTINATION FEELING FRESH, LOOK OUT FOR MESSAGES ON AIRSHOW, OR REFER TO YOUR INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT GUIDE FOR PROGRAMME DETAILS. August 2010

65

Guide to US customs & immigration forms Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the US today this simple guide to completing the US customs and immigration forms will help to ensure that your journey is as smooth and hassle free as possible.

The Cabin Crew will offer two forms when nearing your destination. Here we provide simple guidelines on correctly completing the forms.

CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

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Open Skies

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� Complete the forms prior to landing. � Use a pen and write in capital letters. � Complete every line. � Ensure you write in the correct space. � If you are in transit through the US, write ‘transit’ in the address field. � If you make a mistake ask a member of Cabin Crew for a fresh form.

IMMIGRATION FORM The IMMIGRATION FORM I-94 (Arrival/Departure Record) should be completed if you are a non-US citizen in possession of a valid US visa and your final destination is the US or if you are in transit to a country outside the US. A separate form must be completed for each person, including children travelling on their parents’ passport. The form includes a Departure Record which must be kept safe and given to your airline when you leave the US. If you hold a US or Canadian passport, US Alien Resident Visa (Green Card), US Immigrant Visa or a valid ESTA (see below) YOU ARE NOT REQUIRED to complete an immigration form.

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If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the US under the Visa Waiver Programme it is now mandatory to apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) at least 72 hours prior to your departure.

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ESTA Facts: â?– Children and infants require an individual ESTA.

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â?– The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending.

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â?– A successful ESTA application is valid for two years, however this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.

Apply online at www.cbp.gov/esta a b

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Cabin Crew will be happy to help if you need assistance completing the forms.

Nationalities eligible for the Visa Waiver*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**. *Subject to change. **Only British Citizens qualify under the Visa Waiver Programme.

August 2010

67

Routes emirates now flies to more than 100 destinations GREENLAND GREENLAND

Western Western Europe Europe Gothenburg Gothenburg

Kristiansand Kristiansand SCOTLAND SCOTLAND

Falkenberg

Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh Edinburgh Newcastle Newcastle Sunderland Sunderland

DENMARK

Nykobing

N. IRELAND N. IRELAND ENGLAND ENGLAND Leeds Leeds IRELAND IRELAND Liverpool Liverpool Dublin Dublin

Poiters

Baker Lake

Baker Lake

Lugo

Rankin Inlet

Vigo

Fort Chipewyan Fort Chipewyan

Churchill

Kamloops

Calgary

Williston

Spokane Spokane Seattle

Seattle

Butte

Butte

Lugo

Burgos ANDORRA Burgos ANDORRA

Vigo

PORTUGAL PORTUGAL Lisbon Lisbon Valdepenas

Inukjuak

Moosonee

Duluth

Minneapolis Minneapolis

Twin Falls

Tucson San DiegoSan Diego

Dallas

Tucson

Valencia

Lulea

Oslo

Taranto

NewcastleNewcastle N. IRELAND N. IRELAND Gdan ENGLANDENGLAND Hamburg Hamburg POLAND P NETH. NETH. Manchester Manchester Birmingham Birmingham U. K. U. K. W IRELAND IRELAND WALES WALES GERMANYGERMANY London London DusseldorfDusseldorf Krak Frankfurt Frankfurt Paris Paris AUSTRIA AUST Munich Munich Zurich Zurich Nantes Nantes Vienna SWITZ. SWITZ. FRANCE FRANCE Venice Veni Milan Milan Bayonne BayonneNice Nice ITALY ITALY SERBIA

MONTENEGRO M

Zaragoza Zaragoza Madrid Madrid PORTUGAL PORTUGAL SPAIN SPAIN Ponta Delgada Ponta Delgada Lisbon Lisbon Sevilla Sevilla Gibraltar Gibraltar Algiers Rabat Rabat

Casablanca Casablanca

Atlanta

Reggane

DOM. REP.DOM. REP.

JAMAICA JAMAICA BELIZE BELIZE HAITI HONDURAS HONDURAS

P A PC AI FCIICF I C O C OE C A EN A N

Djanet

Araouane

Dakar Dakar

Georgetown Georgetown VENEZUELA VENEZUELA Paramaribo PANAMA PANAMA Paramaribo Bogota BogotaGUYANA GUYANA FRENCH GUIANA FRENCH GUIANA SURINAMESURINAME COLOMBIA COLOMBIA Quito Quito ECUADORECUADOR Manaus PERU Trujillo

Sochi

Varna Burgas

Zonguldak Zonguldak Istanbul Istanbul Bursa Ankara Bursa Ankara Izmir

Tbilisi Poti Tbilisi

Yerevan TURKEY TURKEY

Izmir Antalya

Antalya Adana Nicosia

Yerevan Tabriz

Adana Aleppo

Aleppo Mosel

Nicosia SYRIA

Iraklion

TehranTehran

Alexandria

Jerusalem Jerusalem Alexandria

IRAQ Port Said JORDAN JORDAN

Suez Cairo Cairo Port Said

IRAN

Goiania

Goiania

Campinas Campinas Rio De Janeiro Rio De Janeiro PARAGUAY PARAGUAY Antofagasta Curitiba Curitiba Asuncion Asuncion CHILE

São Paulo São Paulo

Herat

Rosario Rosario URUGUAYURUGUAY Santiago Santiago ARGENTINA ARGENTINA Buenos Aires Buenos Aires Montevideo Montevideo Concepcion

Neuquen Valdivia

Neuquen

Atbara

SUDAN

Atbara

Khartoum Khartoum Asmara Al Fashir

SAUDI ARABIA SAUDI ARABIA

Port Sudan

Mekele

Al Ghaydan Sana’aSana’a

Asmara

YEMEN

Mekele Taizz Aseb Aseb

Djibouti

Djibouti

Al Ghaydan Salalah

YEMEN

Al Mukalla Taizz

OMAN

Al Mukalla

Comodoro Rivadavia Comodoro Rivadavia

OMAN Salalah

Port Stanley Port Stanley

Bilma

NIGERCHAD

Dem GABON GABON CON BrazzavilleBrazzav

O C OE C A EN A N

Kinshasa

Luanda Luanda Huambo

Salvador Salvador Brasilia

Belo Horizonte Belo Horizonte

Mashhad Herat

Barreiras

Porto Alegre Porto Alegre

Kerman Kerman Concepcion Zahedan Zahedan Shiraz Bam Bam

Basra

Sucre

Brasilia Cuiaba

Recife

Nukus

Dammam Dammam Bandar AbbasBandar AbbasValdivia Bahrain Bahrain Al Medinah Al Medinah Aswan Doha Doha RiyadhRiyadh Muscat Muscat Mecca Mecca Jeddah Jeddah Al Khaluf Al Khaluf

Port Sudan

Al Fashir

La Paz

Cuiaba

Recife

Barreiras

EGYPT Aswan

SUDAN

Basra

Shiraz KuwaitKuwait

Suez

Beni Beni El-Minya SuefEl-Minya Suef

EGYPT

IRAQ

Mashhad

BRAZIL

Bilma

NIGER

EQUATORIALEQUATORIAL GUINEA GUINEA SAO TOME & SAO PRINCIPE TOME & PRINCIPE REPUBLIC OFRE Libreville Libreville CONGO CO Sao Tome Sao Tome

Belem Fortaleza Fortaleza

Cachimbo

BOLIVIA BOLIVIA

Antofagasta Baku TURKMENISTAN TURKMENISTAN CHILE Ashgabat Ashgabat

Baku

Mosel

SYRIA

Nukus

Ardabil Ardabil Tabriz

Bakhtaran Bakhtaran Beirut Beirut Damascus Damascus IRAN Amman Amman Baghdad Baghdad Esfahan Esfahan

Iraklion

BRAZIL

Lima

Sucre Aqtau

Porto Velho Cachimbo

Araouane

LagosLagos Abidjan Abidjan Accra Accra Yaounde Yaounde

Sao Goncalo Sao Goncalo Porto Velho

La Paz

Sochi OrdzhonikidzeOrdzhonikidze Aqtau

Poti

PERU

Trujillo

Lima

Middle Middle EastEast Varna Burgas

Belem

Manaus

Al Ja

Niamey Niamey Bamako Bamako GAMBIA GAMBIA BURKINA FASO BURKINA FASO NIGERIA NIGERIA N’Djamena GUINEA BISSAU GUINEA BISSAU GUINEA GUINEA BENIN BENIN Abuja GHANA GHANA Abuja Conakry Conakry TOGO TOGO COTE COTE Freetown Freetown Porto Novo Porto Novo CENTRAL C A D'IVOIRE D'IVOIRE SIERRA LEONE SIERRA LEONE REPUB Lome Lome CAMEROON CAMEROON LIBERIA LIBERIA Bang Malabo Malabo

Caracas Caracas

Talara

Sa

Djanet

MAURITANIA MAURITANIA

COSTA RICA COSTA RICA

Talara

Sabhah

Reggane

MALI

Nouakchott Nouakchott SENEGAL SENEGAL

HAITI

GUATEMALA GUATEMALA NICARAGUA NICARAGUA EL SALVADOR EL SALVADOR

Ouargla Tripoli Tripoli

LIBYA MALI

CUBA

M Rome Naples ALBAN Nap G

ALGERIA ALGERIA

WESTERNWESTERN SAHARA SAHARA

Havana

Rome

Tunis Tunis Athen Algiers Malta TUNISIA TUNISIA

Ouargla MOROCCOMOROCCO

Canary Islands Canary Islands

Tampa

CUBA

Oslo StockholmStockTa

Gothenburg Gothenburg SCOTLAND SCOTLAND DENMARKDENMARK Copenhagen CopL Glasgow Glasgow

THE BAHAMAS THE BAHAMAS

Mexico City Mexico City

Os

Valencia

A T LA AT LN AT N I CT I C

New York New York

Tampa Houston Houston

Ostersund

NORWAY NORWAY

Torshavn Torshavn

Naples Taranto

Valdepenas

Jacksonville Jacksonville New Orleans New Orleans

Havana

SWEDEN Skelleftea

YUGOSLAVIAYUGOSLAVIA

Montreal Montreal Ottawa

Ottawa

Toronto Toronto

Dallas Atlanta Birmingham Birmingham

MEXICO MEXICO

Kiru

HUNGARY HUNGARY SLOVENIA Zagreb Zagreb

Rome Rome

Naples

Amos

ToledoToledo

San Francisco San Francisco Los Angeles Los Angeles

Marseille

Moosonee

Amos Timmins

MilwaukeeMilwaukee Detroit Detroit Buffalo Buffalo Boston Boston Scottsbluff ScottsbluffChicago Chicago Omaha Omaha Provo Provo Reno Reno Baltimore Baltimore Kansas City Kansas City Philadelphia Philadelphia Denver Denver U. S. A. St. U. S. A. St. Louis Oakland Oakland Washington Washington D. C. D. C. Louis Norfolk Norfolk Charlotte Charlotte Albuquerque Albuquerque Memphis Memphis Las Vegas Las Vegas Twin Falls

Marseille

CANADA CANADA

Brandon

Duluth

Portland Portland

SLOVENIA

Geneva

Labrador City Labrador City

Timmins Grand Forks Grand Forks

Williston

Geneva

Thompson

Calgary

Swift Current Swift Current Brandon

Poiters

Zaragoza Zaragoza Porto MadridMadrid S P A I N S P A I N

Churchill Inukjuak

Fort McMurrayFort McMurray Bear Lake Dawson CreekDawson Creek Thompson Grande PrairieGrande Prairie Flin Flon Flin Flon Prince Rupert Prince Rupert Prince Albert Prince Albert Prince Prince George George Red Deer Red Deer Saskatoon Saskatoon Bear Lake

Kamloops

Gdansk

Ljubljana Ljubljana ICELAND Lyon Milan ICELANDCROATIA Milan CROATIA I T A L Y I T A L Y Bordeaux Reykjavik Reykjavik Venice Venice BOSNIA BOSNIA Nuuk Nuuk Sarajevo Sarajevo Bayonne Bayonne Nice Toulouse Toulouse Monaco Nice Monaco Ancona Ancona Oviedo Oviedo

Porto

VancouverVancouver

Nykobing Gdansk

Hamburg Hamburg

Lyon Bordeaux

Rankin Inlet

Juneau

Varnamo

NETH. NETH. Manchester Manchester Berlin Berlin Birmingham Birmingham Rotterdam Rotterdam Amsterdam Amsterdam Cork Cork P O L A N DP O L A N D WALES WALES Wroclaw Wroclaw BELGIUM BELGIUM Dusseldorf Dusseldorf London London Brussels Brussels Breslau Breslau (Heathrow & Gatwick) (Heathrow & Gatwick) Frankfurt Frankfurt Prague Prague Luxembourg Luxembourg CZECH CZECH GERMANY GERMANY SLOVAKIA SLOVAKIA Morlaix Morlaix Paris Paris ViennaVienna Rennes Rennes Le Mans Le Mans Munich Joigny Joigny Munich Bratislava Bratislava AUSTRIA AUSTRIA LIECH. LIECH. Nantes Nantes Budapest Budapest Zurich Zurich FRANCE FRANCE SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND

Echo Bay Echo Bay

Juneau

Varnamo Falkenberg

DENMARK Copenhagen Copenhagen

ANGOLA A

NAMIBIA NAM

BO

Windhoek W Walvis BayWalvis Bay

Johannes Joh Luderitz

Luderitz

Blo

SOUTH

Cape Town Cape Tow

A R AC RT C I CT I C

O C OE C A EN A N

From From thethe Flight Flight Deck Deck Westbound Depending on the time of departure for some of our longer Westbound flights we may be ‘chasing’ a setting sun. This can create the feeling of a flight lasting for longer than it actually does because the sun never really sets.

It just hangs in the Western sky. From the flight deck the sky takes on an incredible rich aqua marine hue that is hard to describe.

Khatanga

Volochanka

Alta

Alta

Antipayuta

Murmansk

una

Murmansk

Kiruna

Vorkuta

Norilsk Dudinka Dudinka Antipayuta

a

Lulea Skelleftea

FINLAND stersund

Archangelsk Archangelsk

FINLAND

Vaasa

Vaasa

Helsinki

Helsinki Tallinn

ESTONIA

Vologda St. Petersburg St. Petersburg

ESTONIA Novgorod

Perm

Jaroslavl Jaroslavl Rostov Gorkiy GorkiyIzevsk

Riga Riga LATVIA LATVIARostov LITHUANIA Vilnius Vilnius

Minsk Minsk nsk Gdansk POLAND Orol BELARUS BELARUS Warsaw Warsaw

Kiev kow Lviv Krakow Lviv

Kirov

Novgorod

penhagen LITHUANIA

Moscow Moscow Kazan Tol Yatti

Voronez Saratov

Kazan Ufa

SverdlovskSverdlovsk Izevsk Chelyabinsk Chelyabinsk Omsk Ufa

Istanbul Istanbul

nsAthens Malta Nicosia

Irkutsk

Atbassar

Balqash

Aralsk

Alma Ata Alma Ata

Tashkent Tashkent Kashi TURKMENISTAN TURKMENISTAN TAJIKISTAN TAJIKISTAN Ashgabat Ashgabat

IRAQTehran

IRAQ

Baghdad

abhah

EGYPT

Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskij Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskij Ulan Ude

Kashi Hotan

Peshawar Peshawar Kabul KabulIslamabad Islamabad

Qiemo Golmud

Esfahan

AFGHANISTAN AFGHANISTAN

LahoreLahore Delhi Delhi

Qiqihar

Baotou

Yumen

Qiqihar

Khabarovsk Juzno Sachalinsk Juzno Sachalinsk

Harbin JixiHarbin Jixi

Dalandzadagad Dalandzadagad Hami

C H I N A C H I Yumen N A Qiemo Hotan

Khabarovsk

Ulaanbaatar Ulaanbaatar

MONGOLIA Altay MONGOLIA

Urumqi Korla Hami

Basra Basra IRAN IRAN JORDAN JORDAN Multan Multan Cairo Shiraz Shiraz KUWAIT KUWAIT PAKISTANPAKISTAN Jaipur Jaipur Agra Agra EGYPT Allahabad Allahabad Riyadh Riyadh Varanasi Varanasi

Cairo

Changchun Changchun Jilin

Jilin Sapporo Sapporo Fuxin Benxi Benxi NORTH KOREA NORTH KOREA

Fuxin Baotou

BeijingBeijing Seoul Seoul

Pyongyang Pyongyang Yinchuan Yinchuan Dalian Dalian Sendai Sendai Xining XiningTaiyuan Taiyuan Golmud Qingdao Qingdao SOUTH KOREA SOUTH KOREA Lanzhou LanzhouKaifeng Kaifeng Xian Xian JAPAN JAPAN Mianyang Mianyang Hefei Hefei Chengdu Chengdu Huangshi Huangshi Yueyang Yueyang Zigong Zigong Wenzhou Wenzhou Dukou Dukou Fuzhou Fuzhou Guiyang Guiyang Xiamen Xiamen Shantou Shantou TAIWAN TAIWAN

Tokyo Tokyo OsakaOsaka

Shanghai Shanghai

Taipei Taipei Karachi Karachi Ahmedabad Ahmedabad DhakaDhaka Guangzhou Guangzhou Hong Kong Hong Kong Nagpur Nagpur MYANMAR MYANMAR Surat Surat Kolkata Kolkata SAUDI ARABIA SAUDI ARABIA Hanoi Hanoi LAOS LAOS BANGLADESH BANGLADESH OMAN OMAN Mumbai Mumbai Rangoon Rangoon Vientiane Vientiane CHAD YEMEN ERITREA ERITREA YEMEN Hyderabad Hyderabad THAILAND THAILAND VIETNAM VIETNAM Asmara Asmara Khartoum Khartoum Sanaa Sanaa INDIA INDIA ManilaManila SUDAN SUDAN Bangkok Bangkok Chennai Chennai Bengaluru Bengaluru PHILIPPINES PHILIPPINES DJIBOUTI DJIBOUTI Phnom Penh Phnom Penh aN’Djamena Kozhikode Kozhikode Ho Chi Minh City Ho Chi Minh City SOMALIA SOMALIA Kochi Kochi Waw Waw Addis Addis AbabaAbaba SRI LANKA SRI LANKA CENTRAL AFRICAN AFRICAN ETHIOPIA ETHIOPIA Thiruvananthapuram Thiruvananthapuram Colombo Colombo Davao Davao BLICREPUBLIC BRUNEI BRUNEI gui Bangui Malé Malé Kuala Kuala Lumpur Lumpur UGANDA UGANDA e MALAYSIAMALAYSIA KENYA KENYA EPUBLIC OF MogadishuMogadishu Singapore Singapore Eldoret Eldoret ONGO Entebbe Entebbe LIBYA

Al Jawf Aswan

awf

Aswan

Muscat

Mecca

Muscat

Mecca

m. of Dem. of RWANDA RWANDA NGO CONGO ville BURUNDI BURUNDI

Nairobi Nairobi

a Kinshasa Kananga

Kananga TANZANIATANZANIA

Dar esDar Salaam es Salaam Likasi

Likasi

MALAWI Huambo ZAMBIA ZAMBIA ANGOLA Lusaka Lusaka

MIBIA

MALAWI

I

N

ID

NO

DN

OE

NS

EI

S A

I

P A PC AI FCIICF I C O C OE C A EN A N

A

Jakarta Jakarta

Seychelles Seychelles

PAPUA PAPUA NEW GUINEA NEW GUINEA Port Moresby Port Moresby

COMOROSCOMOROS

Lilongwe Lilongwe

Harare

Harare

OTSWANA BOTSWANA ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE

Mauritius Mauritius

Antananarivo Antananarivo MADAGASCAR MADAGASCAR MOZAMBIQUE MOZAMBIQUE Gaborone Gaborone Pretoria Pretoria Tolanaro Tolanaro Maputo Maputo Mbabane Mbabane oemfontein Bloemfontein SWAZILAND SWAZILAND

Windhoek

hannesburg sburg

Durban Durban H AFRICA SOUTH AFRICA

wn

Magadan

Bratsk

Karamay

Urumqi Korla

Tehran

Bakhtaran

Esfahan Baghdad

Bodaybo

Jakutsk

Irkutsk

Hovd Altay

Karamay

AZERBAIJAN AZERBAIJAN

Nicosia Larnaca Larnaca Bakhtaran

Hovd

Balqash

Bishkek Bishkek KYRGYZSTANKYRGYZSTAN

LEBANONLEBANON SYRIA SYRIA

Bodaybo

Sangar

Jakutsk

Magadan

Bratsk Krasnojarsk Krasnojarsk

UZBEKISTAN UZBEKISTAN

ARMENIA ARMENIA NIA ALBANIA ples GREECE GREECE Ankara Ankara Izmir IzmirTURKEY TURKEY Adana Adana

Mirnyj

Aktyubinsk

Aralsk

GEORGIA

Mirnyj

Batagay

Novosibirsk Novosibirsk

Qaraghandy Qaraghandy KAZAKHSTAN KAZAKHSTAN

MOLDOVAMOLDOVA Frunze Frunze Vienna ROMANIA ROMANIA ice BucharestBucharest KrasnodarKrasnodar ConstantaConstanta A SERBIA GEORGIA

Sangar

Ulan Ude Aktyubinsk

VolgogradVolgograd

Belaja Gora

Omsk

Rudnyy Atbassar

Saratov

TRIA

MONTENEGRO O BULGARIA BULGARIA MACEDONIA MACEDONIA

Batagay

Igarka

Kiev

UKRAINE UKRAINE

Belaja Gora

Perm

Tol Yatti KuybyshevKuybyshevRudnyy

Orol Voronez

Norilsk

Captain Robert Scaddan Nizhnevartovsk Nizhnevartovsk Boeing 777 Flying with Emirates for 6 years and 7 months

Syktyvkar

Vologda Kirov

Volochanka

R U S S RI A U S S I A

Syktyvkar

kholm allinn

Ust-Olenek

Vorkuta

Igarka

N SWEDEN

Ust-Olenek

Khatanga

LESOTHO LESOTHO Umtata Umtata

IND I NI AD NI A N O C OE C A EN A N

Cairns Broome

Learmonth

Broome

Port Hedland Port Hedland Learmonth

Mackay

Alice Springs AUSTRALIA AUSTRALIA Carnarvon

Geraldton

Cairns

Tennant CreekTennant Creek

Carnarvon

Perth Perth

NEW CALEDONIA NEW CALEDONIA

Brisbane Brisbane

Geraldton

Port Elizabeth Port Elizabeth

Mackay

Alice Springs

Kalgoorlie

Cook Kalgoorlie

Cook

Bourke

Adelaide Adelaide

Bourke

Sydney Sydney Auckland Auckland

Canberra Canberra

Melbourne Melbourne

NEW ZEALAND NEW ZEALAND

Christchurch Christchurch

Graphic illustration Graphic illustration only, notonly, a complete not a complete representation representation or to scale. or to © 2010. scale.Emirates. © 2010. Emirates.

All rightsAll reserved. rights reserved.

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