Open Skies | December 2017

The luxurious plight of the modern day adventurer

NortherN exposure INtrIGue IN WAshINGtoN DC Inside the hotel room that helped changed history

stAr WArs

Daisy Ridley talks action figures and travelling in disguise

DAvID GuettA How to negotiate Paris on New Year’s Eve – an exclusive guide by the world’s favourite DJ

ediTOr-inCHief

managing ParTner & grOuP ediTOr

ediTOrial direCTOr

Obaid Humaid al Tayer

ian fairserviCe

gina JOHnsOn gINA@MOTIvATE.AE

grOuP ediTOr

seniOr ediTOr

seniOr arT direCTOr

seniOr designer

mark evans MArKE@MOTIvATE.AE

andrew nagy ANDrEw.NAgy@MOTIvATE.AE

Olga PeTrOff OlgA.PETrOFF@MOTIvATE.AE

rOui franCisCO rOM@MOTIvATE.AE

digiTal animaTOr

sub ediTOr

ediTOrial assisTanT

inTern

suraJiT duTTa SUrAJIT@MOTIvATE.AE

salil kumar SAlIl@MOTIvATE.AE

lOndresa flOres lONDrESA@MOTIvATE.AE

geOrgie HibberT

COnTribuTOrs IAIN AKErMAN, EMMA COIlEr, SArAh FrEEMAN, CJ hANNON, MArINA KAy, DAvID lASIKIN, vINCENT lONg, SEAN wIllIAMS, SUSAN wrIghT COver: BlAISE vONlANThEN

general manager PrOduCTiOn

PrOduCTiOn manager

CHief COmmerCial OffiCer

grOuP sales manager

sunil kumar SUNIl@MOTIvATE.AE

r murali krisHnan MUrAlIK@MOTIvATE.AE

anTHOny milne ANThONy@MOTIvATE.AE

miCHael underdOwn MIChAEl@MOTIvATE.AE

assisTanT PrOduCTiOn manager

seniOr sales manager

binu Purandaran BINU@MOTIvATE.AE

miCHelle Quinn MIChEllE.QUINN@MOTIvATE.AE

EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS FOR EMIRATES

ediTOr

arabiC ediTOr

dePuTy ediTOr

manna Talib

HaTem Omar

CaTHerine freeman

Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions.

Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

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Media One Tower, Dubai Media City PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE Telephone: (+971 4) 427 3000 Fax: (+971 4) 428 2261 Email: emirates@motivate.ae 10 / OPEN SKIES

133,095 copies January – June 2017

Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE

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contents

INTRO

18

22

24

31

36

38

51

EXpERIENCE

TASTE

STAY

LUNCH WITH

TRAvEL ESSENTIAL

dISpATCHES

CoLUmN

feaTuRes

54

HAS THE AgE of AdvENTURE CHANgEd foREvER?

64

THE HIddEN TREASURES IN ITALIAN LIbRARIES

bRIefINg

75

78

80

82

90

96

98

NEWS

INSIdE EmIRATES

dESTINATIoN

vISA, ComfoRT, ANd SmART gATE

RoUTE mAp

THE fLEET

CELEbRITY dIRECTIoNS

OPEN SKIES / 13

EDITOR’S NOTE ON THE COVER

NORTHERN EXPOSURE Our cover this month, shot by Blaise Vonlanthen, shows the beauty and vastness of the Arctic landscape.

Adventure is all about perspective. While for some it’s scaling Everest, for others it’s leaving the Christmas shopping until December 24. One is an adrenalin-fuelled expedition that’s fraught with danger; the other is reaching the world’s highest peak. It’s horses for courses.

Regardless of where your head’s at on the matter, the scene is undoubtedly changing. Adventure was once the preserve of men looking to claim land and plant flags, now it’s a billion dollar industry offering an idealised version of yourself. Arctic explorer, extreme sports junkie, cosmonaut… it’s all on the table and now comes with a healthy dose of five-star luxury, too.

But while experiential travel certainly improves your dinner party chat, ethical questions remain. What are the conservation worries surrounding overpopulating sites and, in more general terms, has the game itself just gone a little soft – adventure made easy?

Should we suffer hardship to see such edge-of-extreme sights, or does the experience, and its impact upon us, count above all else?

This month, we sent a man to the frozen wastes of the Arctic to find out. He was sent in relative luxury. We regret that now.

ANDREW NAGY SENIOR EDITOR

SOCIAL MEDIA facebook.com/ openskiesmag

twitter.com/ openskiesmag

instagram.com/ openskiesmag

also available on your ipad OPEN SKIES / 15

INTRO

experience • taste • stay • lunch with • neighbourhood • column

Art bAsel Turn over to see more art

Art bAsel miAmi beAch With 250 galleries, art, installations, photography and more, Miami Beach could be your ideal winter destination.

Jorge Mara - La Ruche Roberto Aizenberg, Untitled, 1986

turn over to plan a month of adventure

OPEN SKIES / 17

THE PLAN Events to aim for this month DEC. 6-13

DubAi iNTErNATioNAL fiLm fEsTivAL DIFF managing director, Shivani Pandya, talks premieres, A-list arrivals and Arab cinema

WORDS: Steve Jones

What movie premieres should we look out for this month?

There are too many to mention here, but we open on December 6 with Scott Cooper’s Western masterpiece, Hostiles, starring Christian Bale and Rosamund Pike, and close with one of the most anticipated movies of the year: Star Wars: The Last Jedi.

What else is happening?

There are more than 28 industryorientated talks, panel discussions, masterclasses and events featuring some of the biggest names in global cinema. This year that includes Emmy award-winning directorproducer Michelle Maclaren (Game of Thrones, Westworld, The Deuce and Breaking Bad), and Academy Award-nominated documentarian Morgan Spurlock. Spurlock will host a conversation about a risk-taking career that turns the camera on himself. His latest film, Super Size Me 2: Holy Chicken, also premieres at the festival.

How important is a thriving film festival to a modern city?

The main aim of DIFF is to promote the culture and talent of the region to international audiences through the power of film. The festival works throughout the year to help develop a thriving film culture within the region, fostering the growth of the industry by providing greater 18 / OPEN SKIES

opportunities for filmmakers in our part of the world.

Can we expect A-list visitors?

Many of our screenings are followed

by Q&As and special appearances from a stellar line-up of industry

talent, including directors, producers and featured talent from the movies.

How has DIFF helped Arab cinema?

In 2007 we launched the Dubai Film Market to raise the profile of Arab cinema both here and abroad.

experience

FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION...

DEC. 02

UAE NATIONAL DAY

Celebrating the joining of the emirates in 1971, it’s a great time to be in town.

Look out for national dress, parades and celebrations, culminating in a series of fireworks displays across the country. uaE-WIdE | vISItdubaI.cOm

DEC. 7-10

ART BASEL, MIAMI

Part of Art Basel’s three city series – Miami, Hong Kong, Basel – there’s sculpture, art, installations, photography and more from 250 leading global galleries, all to the backdrop of Miami Beach. mIamI bEach | artbaSEl.cOm

DEC. 11-17

ALTITUDE COMEDY FEST

are you a movie buff? check out Film club on ice for a selection of all-time classic and contemporary movie favourites.

Set in the Austrian mountains of Mayrhofen, the line-up includes awardwinning comedy from Zoe Lyons, music from the legendary Cuban Brothers, and anecdotes from Eddie ‘The Eagle’ Edwards. maYrhOFEN | altItudEcOmEdYFEStIval.cOm

DAME JOAN COLLINS It has since supported more than 300 projects, with films that have gone on to find critical acclaim and new audiences across the globe. madINat JumEIrah, dubaI | dIFF.cOm

Head to Dubai Opera for an evening celebrating the life of Golden Globe-winning actress and best-selling author, Dame Joan Collins. Undoubtedly worth it for the gossip on her Dynasty years, alone. dubaI | dubaIOPEra.cOm

OPEN SKIES / 19

Xaviera Simmons, Overlay (Image Nine), 2017

DEC. 12

EXPERIENCE

DEC. 14

The heroine of Star Wars: The Last Jedi reveals nothing about this month’s movie; the force is strong in this one

DAISY RIDLEY

WORDS: Emma Coiler

One of the greatest parts about my job is travel When we filmed in Abu Dhabi for the first movie, we stayed in this incredible hotel in the middle of the desert. It’s probably somewhere I would never have visited, so to have that opportunity was amazing.

I haven’t had to travel in disguise yet But there are things that you used to take for granted – like going out for dinner and not being photographed – that are tough. But I wouldn’t change being part of Star Wars for anything.

I couldn’t play another character When you look at Star Wars, it’s hard to imagine anybody other than the actors who played them doing the job. How could anybody apart from Carrie have been Princess Leia? How could anybody other than Harrison have been Han Solo?

It’s really cool to be a Star Wars action figure I remember when they first came through the mail I got quite a few at once. I was living with my sister at the time and there were all these mini-me figures scattered around the place. She found it a bit weird.

I love Comic-Con My first one was in San Diego, and I really got what Star Wars meant to the hardcore fans. I’ve certainly enjoyed my Middle East visits before, so if Dubai was ever on the schedule I would love to come back.

What can I definitely tell you about Star Wars: The Final Jedi?

I can definitely tell you that I can’t tell you what happens.

REGIONWIDE | STARWARS.COM 20 / OPEN SKIES

THE FORCE: A DUBAI EDITION

Let your favourite Star Wars character guide your December diary

NATIONAL DAY

=

YOU’RE FIERCELY LOYAL

+

YOUR FORCE IS STRONG

x

YOU’RE BRAVE AND OPTIMISTIC

=

=

YOU’RE FEELING CONFUSED

+

YOU’RE OFTEN ON THE RUN

x

YOU ENJOY A CHALLENGE

MUDDER = December 8-9

=

YOU’RE SOMETHING OF A DIVA

+

YOU OWN A NUMBER OF CAPES

x

YOU LIKE YOUR OWN WAY

=

December 2

REY For more family entertainment from the Star Wars universe, check out Kid’s & Teens TV on ice. Star Wars Rebels on the Disney XD channel, and Star Wars: The Freemaker Adventures is showing on LEGO TV.

TOUGH

FINN

KYLO

ELTON JOHN

December 8

- EA2057 - EA2060 Follow @emporioarmani

taste

dubaI

Drop AND the future of coffee It’s time to start taking that morning cuppa seriously

usa

the SceNe iN BrooklyN a new saturday night ritual

Forty years ago this month, Saturday Night Fever became an overnight sensation, based on a disco club called 2001 Odyssey and the inhabitants of a rougharound-the-edges Brooklyn.

Now, the borough is one of the city’s most attractive, and those in the know head to Black Flamingo. With a Latin-inspired menu, great cocktails and an always-full dance floor, the place has some serious heat of its own.

The place is built on talent. “Drop gets coffee from some of the very best roasteries, and has three national champion baristas from around the world on the roster,” explains Mahmood Al Khamis, one half of the founding team at Drop. This is coffee as an experience.

It’s all about single origin. Drop celebrates the individual coffee, and there are some great flavours on offer. Get the barista to help work one out for you.

Here’s a recommendation. Get the iced V60. Perfect for hot days in Dubai.

Your own personal barista? Not quite yet, but Drop co-founder, Ghanim Al Qassim, sees the industry going that way. “I can see a bridging of the gap between barista and

consumer, and perhaps a time when you might message them for expert advice on home brew equipment or brew methods.”

DrOP COffEE DubaI, Dar al WaSl Mall, al WaSl rOaD, +971 54 441 2523

SeASoN’S eAtiNgS

three options for a festive feast in Dubai

blaCKflaMINGONYC.COM

THe scandal

Saturday Night fever was based on Tribal rites of the New Saturday Night, Nik Cohn’s ‘factual’ article for New York Magazine. Twenty years later, however, Cohn admitted to having made the entire thing up.

Want to learn more about the top food destinations in Dubai?

Check out the Dubai Restaurants podcast, channel 1506 on ice.

22 / OPEN SKIES

THe new one Galvin Dubai The Galvin brothers have fine dining at City Walk sewn up, and their three-course ‘British with a European twist’ festive lunch actually has four options for each course.

THe classIc one Al Mahara at Burj Al Arab If you’re looking to dazzle, then try superstar chef Nathan Outlaw’s six-course degustation menu at Al Mahara. The best part is that the menu runs both Christmas Eve and Day.

THe bruncH one Jumeirah Al Qasr Festive brunching shouldn’t be confined to one restaurant. Here you can weave through The Hide, Al Hambra and Arboretum for one giant festive extravaganza.

Dhs295, GalvIN DubaI,

Dhs995, burj al arab,

Dhs375-850, juMEIrah al QaSr,

+971 4 590 5444

+971 4 301 7600

+971 4 432 3232

stay

MAlDIvES

BEYOND THE DEEP

There’s more to Conrad Maldives Rangali Island than its famed underwater restaurant WORDS: dominic Ellis

IMAGES: conrad madlives rangali

RAnGAlI

vISuAl chEcklIST Tick these sights off for maximum maldives action

Whitetip maldives Green sea reef reef turtles shark

manta ray

Clownfish

*a-list celebrity

* “Is that Ivana Trump?”

Emirates offers four daily services to malé. choose from three non-stop services, and a daily service that stops in colombo.

72.7182° E

RAnGAlI

3.6153° N

You probably know Conrad Maldives Rangali Island because of Ithaa, the restaurant that’s 16 feet below sea level and that has been its show-stopping attraction since 2005.

But to define it by its underwater enterprise would be reductive. After all, this is a resort that has been named the world’s best twice – and that’s with very good reason.

The cynic in you might consider its popularity down to a simple but sensible separation policy. You see, once off the seaplane and down the 1,600-foot jetty, families turn right

24 / OPEN SKIES

– to the adjoining Rangalifinolhu Island – and couples go left, for a more grown-up affair on the water villas of Rangali Island

The perfect shot

Rather than spend your afternoons searching for the best Instagram spots for your feed, head off on a tour with the island’s Instagram butler. Expect sunsets, stargazing and other hidden gems guaranteed to pull in the ‘Likes’; and possibly even that fire emoji, too.

A recent US$3.2 million villa refurb has helped, too, not to mention impressive use of the stunning natural amenities. Days are filled being pampered at Mandhoo Spa while watching sharks being fed, or swimming with turtles, or enjoying a sunset cruise on the Indian Ocean. Life. Is. Tough.

Get back in time for a five-course degustation menu at The Wine Cellar, a spot of fine dining at Ufaa by Jereme Leung, or a snack at one of the resort’s ten other bars and restaurants.

Yes, even the underwater one. cONradmaldIvES.cOm

This programme is offered outside Dubai and KHDA bears no responsibility for the programme

USA

a room that helped change history

Now reopened and reimagined by Emmy Award-winning costume designer Lyn Paolo, the chance to stay in the room that helped bring down a president is too good to miss WORDS: Andrew Nagy

IMAGES: The Watergate Hotel

38.9072° N

77.0369° W

WASHINGTON, DC

Even for a city filled with monuments, the iconography of The Watergate Hotel is hard to ignore. Even for a city that houses the seat of the US government just 30 minutes away, its political impact is second to none. Which makes the reopening of room 214 – or The Watergate Scandal Room 214, as it’s now known – all the more exciting.

Although the hotel was quickly the darling of DC high society when it opened in 1967, it was sold several times in the years that followed the Richard Nixon-backed Watergate breakin just five years later. It closed completely in 2007, but was bought again in 2010, with a US$200 million renovation put in place.

“You can’t ignore the context,” said designer Ron Arad, when tasked with redesigning the hotel’s public spaces, “but you don’t have to mimic it.”

Head to Top of the Gate rooftop bar for drinks, 360° views of the city and even a spot of ice skating

26 / OPEN SKIES

WASHINGTON, DC

Emirates operates a daily service to Washington, DC.

So while Arad has looked to the curved footprint of original designer Luigi Moretti, new additions such as The Last Whisky Bar (name courtesy of The Door’s Alabama Song lyric) and Top of the Gate rooftop bar, perfect for sundowners, have added contemporary touches to the property.

Its location remains a game-changer, too, being walking distance from both Georgetown and the National Mall.

But to ignore The Watergate’s history would be to miss a trick, hence the reboot of room 214, with extra emphasis placed on its scandalous past.

Officially reopened in October, room 214 was conceptualised and designed by Emmy Award-winning costume designer Lyn Paolo, alongside hotel co-owner Rakel Cohen. It’s your chance to spend a night in a room that will forever have a place in US history.

STAY

The Watergate crib sheet Brief notes on a scandal

1972

A hostile political environment reigns as US President Richard Nixon aims for re-election.

Five men are arrested attempting to bug the offices of the Democratic National Committee at The Watergate Complex.

They use room 214 of the hotel as a base.

The FBI establish that the break-in stems from a campaign of political spying and sabotage on behalf of the Nixon re-election effort.

Nixon is re-elected with 60 per cent of the vote – one of the biggest margins in US history.

1973

Alexander Butterfield, former presidential appointments secretary, reveals that since 1971, Nixon has recorded all conversations and calls in his offices.

Nixon refuses to hand in the presidential tape recordings.

The Supreme Court unanimously rules that Nixon must turn over the tapes.

1974

The House of Representatives votes to impeach Nixon for obstruction of justice.

On August 8, to avoid impeachment, Richard Nixon becomes the first US president to resign.

OPEN SKIES / 27

stay

DUBAI

Learn more about great places to stay in the Dubai Hotels podcast on ice.

UAE

the Downtown escape Renaissance Downtown Hotel will calm your nerves WORDS: Mike Smith

IMAGES: Renaissance Downtown

55.2708° E

DUBAI

25.2048° N

There’s something quite relaxing about Renaissance Downtown Hotel, which is good, as it’s a feeling that’s kind of at odds with its location.

Built in the shadow of Burj Khalifa, you’re literally at the business end of town, but just a moment’s stroll through its contemporary, Arabesque lobby is enough to bring your heart rate down a notch or two.

Designed by WA International, the 298 rooms and 65 suites have a minimalist edge without being too impersonal. If you can spring to it, the suites are highly recommended, offering either 28 / OPEN SKIES

a Burj Khalifa or Water Canal view for maximum Dubai.

When it comes to food, two celebrity chefs vie for your attention.

The Iron Chef himself, Masaharu Morimoto, offers contemporary Japanese at his eponymously titled restaurant (opening this month), and David Myers, who gets the jump on him with the rustic French charm of Bleu Blanc and Italian spot, Basta!

If it’s a first trip to the city, the hotel has a team of navigator’s that can tailor an itinerary to your needs or point you in the direction of Dubai’s hidden gems. Failing that, there’s a lot on your doorstep so just enjoy getting lost in the city.

RENHOTELS.COM

THE ITALIAN JOB

Although David Myers is possibly best known for his take on Asian cuisine, his two European restaurants here are something to get excited about. The American-born chef won a Michelin star for his first restaurant, Sona, and we can’t wait to see his Italian place, Basta! in particular. Don’t be too surprised if it quickly becomes known for the best pizza in the city.

Smile all the stay.

Welcome to the new LUX* Grand Gaube, a totally reimagined retro-chic tropical retreat in Mauritius.

Launching December 2017. What’s Next?

MAURITIUS

•

RÉUNION

•

MALDIVES

•

CHINA

•

TURKEY

•

VIETNAM

•

U.A.E

•

I TA LY

lunch with

USA

Fred Falke

The legendary French house producer talks military epiphanies, remixing for U2, and creating one of the biggest house tracks of all-time IMAGES: Vincent Long

LA’s Arts District. It’s a typical laidback Friday afternoon and we’re in a French state of mind, ordering some classics from the menu: steak tartare, mussels, sea bass with

REMIx hIGhLIGhtS Of fRED fALkE AI qU

MEz GO

E SEL NA

jAMIRO

34.0522° N

118.2437° W

LOS ANGELES

“Disco,” explains Fred Falke, “is almost all about the bass. You take out the bass and it’s gone.

It’s bass and kick.” We’re discussing the nuances of French house music, and how it sampled the heck out of the ’70s. Falke should know. Along with fellow Frenchman Alan Braxe, the 44-yearold producer and bassist created the revered house track, Intro, and has a body of work that reads like every house lovers’ Spotify playlist.

We’re at Church & State, a bistro on Industrial Street in downtown

U2

WORDS: Marina Kay

Emirates operates a daily service to Los Angeles with the Airbus A380.

ratatouille, and plenty of pommes frites. For balance, we also decide on the menu’s least French item, a couple of Diablo cocktails – because this is LA and we’re all for bringing back the languorous Friday lunch.

As our drinks arrive, Falke has moved on to life in general, and the point of finding his calling in particular. “I was at law school in Toulouse at the time,” he explains.

“It’s a big university town, and one night a friend of mine took me to a jazz concert. I remember watching the bass guitar player and just thinking that he was so cool. I was so impressed that, after the show, I went straight up to him and asked how I could learn to play like that, too.” Falke was hooked. He finished his law degree and then promptly went to music school near Paris. “For me, that night; it was an epiphany.”

Graduating at the top of his class, Falke had set his sights on becoming a session musician when national service intervened, and he was summoned to a military compound for his statutory tenmonth service. Although he wouldn’t know it at the time, the military diversion would work in his favour.

This may have been the army, but after reading a violin score for some high-ranking officers, he was drafted in to the marching band and orchestra, and he was mixing with musicians. “One of my friends started his service ahead of me and had moved to Hong Kong when he’d finished.

We’d kept in touch and one day he wrote to me about an opportunity, explaining that there was lots of work for musicians over there.”

Falke didn’t need a second invitation. As soon as his service was complete, he upped sticks to Hong Kong and got a break playing bass in jazz clubs and as a session OPEN SKIES / 31

lunch with

musician. “I was the new guy in town,” he explains. “There were lots of opportunities and chances to record at the studio.” Unfortunately, the expat life wouldn’t last too long, and when the UK returned Hong Kong to China in 1997, Falke’s visa went with it. “My world collapsed,” he says. “I returned to France.”

But the seed had been sown.

He may have left town, but Falke’s mind was very much still in Hong Kong. “I began making my own studio,” he says of buying portable recording gear, a cassette recorder, and a drum machine. “I had no idea where it was all going, but this was the late nineties and French house was happening. Daft Punk was leading the charge along with Cassius, Air, and Phoenix – although they weren’t as electronic.”

Again, right place right time. As Toulouse was a university town it meant plenty of parties, which also meant plenty of DJs. “All these

The Bill 1 Steak tartare with French fries (US$18) 1 Mediterranean sea bass with ratatouille (US$29) 1 Mussels marinière (US$19) 1 French fries (US$8) 1 Profiteroles (US$9) 1 Espresso(US$4) 1 Americano (US$4) 2 Diablo (US$39) ToTal: US$130

guys were sampling disco records and would ask if I could play them.

‘Of course I can,’ I would say, and I would bring keyboards and instruments to their homes to make house tracks. I’d play live so they wouldn’t have to clear the samples.”

It was around this time that Falke’s military history again intervened, and after bumping into old army friend Alan Braxe at a record store, the pair decided they should collaborate on some music. “I went to his place,” explains Falke. “He had a computer – an early Macintosh – in his parents’ basement and we were just having fun. That’s actually how we made Intro. Alan found a sample from 1986 track Crush on You by The Jets, so he had the start, I played the bassline, and that was that. It was very simple.

“Why did we call it Intro? We couldn’t think of anything else,” he laughs. It’s now widely regarded as a seminal house track, sampled

numerous times in the years that followed. It was released on vinyl in 2000, ultimately ending up on Falke and Braxe’s 2005 album, The Upper Cuts.

“Alan had his label, Vulture, but we didn’t have a manager. It was just me and him. So to promote the track, we went to the Winter Music Conference in Miami with two bags of vinyl.” Those were the days when the event was a more about the business of music than the outdoor festival for the masses it’s become today.

“We met Armand Van Helden and gave him vinyl. Daft Punk were playing a set featuring their album Discovery, so we hung out with them and had dinner. It was a different time back then. It was chill. Now the DJ thing has become a phenomenon.”

After a week pushing the track in Miami, they received a call from a distributor who wanted 500 copies of Intro. “We thought, ‘Yeah, we’ve made it.’” But it was really just the OPEN SKIES / 33

lunch with

start. The calls started coming in for orders of 2,000, and then 10,000.

“At that point, we couldn’t actually afford to make the record in those numbers, so we had to look for a label to fund it.” They signed a licensing deal and Intro went from playing in clubs to getting radio airtime – Falke’s friends calling him whenever they would hear it.

While this was success for Falke, it was only when he was approached by Australian record label Modular to remix Golden Cage

by Norwegian band The Whitest Boy Alive that he really began to make waves in his own right.

“That became the sound of Fred Falke,” he says of the 2008 remix’s success. “I never really analyse myself, but that’s how people began to see me. Artists started asking for remixes… so I got an agent.”

“We met Armand Van Helden… gave him vinyl. Daft Punk were playing… we had dinner. It was a different time. It was chill” Over the years, he’s remixed and produced tracks for everyone from U2 to Jamiroquai, Gossip to Selena Gomez, but the last time he produced his own album was in 2011 – Part IV. “The comfort zone is a trap,” he explains. “I got caught up in the train of remixing because my former manager was really into it. So two years ago, I switched managers.” He cleaned the slate and gained a new manager in France-based Ivan Striga.

“I had remix opportunities coming through regularly, but Ivan told me that as an artist, it’s all about [my] music. Remixing is great but people know Fred Falke because of Intro.” It took a change of manager, and publisher (Pantheon, 34 / OPEN SKIES

French house: a definition by Fred Falke “It can be quite hard to describe, but I would say a combination of American house from Chicago and Detroit – hard and underground – with a romantic French vision… a softness.”

an imprint of Universal France), to realise he had to get back to his roots. As Falke puts it, “I didn’t know it, but I needed fresh energy.”

The last few months have seen Falke finishing up his new album due for release in early 2018. (The single, Don’t Give Up, a collaboration with singer Jake Isaac, was released in the autumn and is on YouTube). Los Angeles – Falke’s home for the past five years – served as inspiration. “I had 60 songs to start with and we went down to 20, then 17. An album has to tell a story; a drive in the hills, a party in a loft, bottle service in a VIP club, an afternoon pool party… like chapters of a book.”

He’s also working on a TV show for English cable but can’t reveal anything more at the moment. As for what’s playing in the car while he’s driving those vast distances across LA? “I’m listening to Huey Lewis and the News. I know them from Back to the Future and just rediscovered them. It’s amazing.” Proof that all good things continue to play on.

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December’s Sole DXB is a three-day festival of global culture in Dubai. There’ll be 17,000 visitors, movie premieres, industry talks, big-name live music and some of the most sought after streetwear in the world. Not bad for something that began just seven years ago with a small gathering of sneakerheads.

US hip hop heritage was the focus in 2015, while 2016 was all about UK streetwear. This month is set for a love-in with Japanese design, and brings with it a dangerous temptation to purchase in large quantities from brands such as Visvim, Neighbourhood, Wacko Maria and more.

But whether you’re there to boost your wardrobe, see talks with the godfather of streetwear, Hiroshi Fujimara, or for live sets by Kano and Pusha T, rest assured that you’re in for one of the best weekends on Dubai’s style calendar.

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36 / OPEN SKIES

2

Foot District, Madrid

This futuristic space in Malasaña features a dedicated Jordan Room along with a 3D printing corner representing the future of the industry.

35 Valverde St.

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3

Atmos, Tokyo

This legendary streetwear boutique chain has been around since 2000 and stocks collaborations so rare they’ll keep you awake at night.

Citywide

PHILIPPINES

ART DECO HUNTING

Amid the crammed streets of Manila lies architecture that is the envy of its regional neighbours WORDS: Sean Williams

IMAGE: Gabriel David

120.9842° E

MANILA

14.5995° N

From the splutter of brightly coloured jeepneys choking its main avenues, to a wild array of religious buildings and a piebald, historic centre, the Philippine capital is a technicolour megacity that’s as breathless as it is logistically confounding.

Along with its time as a Spanish satrapy in the late 16th century, to being a US colonial property from 1898 to 1946, Manila has been a place where Asia meets Europe and North America, and this modern history is writ large in its architecture.

It was during the American period that a hunger for western influence flourished.

Filipino artists, designers and engineers jetted off to universities across the world and returned with the skills and inspiration that have shaped their capital ever since.

“Art Deco style in the Philippines can be understood both as the imposition of power by the coloniser and the demonstration of resistance of the colonised,” commented interior design academic, Edson Roy Gregorio Cabalfin.

The result was an intermingling of cultures, a hybrid Art Deco style that came to represent what the people of the Philippines brought to the table, rather than a simple imposition of its colonisers.

The pre-war pinnacle of this movement was probably the Crystal Arcade, a lavish, moderne shopping mall that sat among grandiose neighbours in Manila’s central Escolta district. Unfortunately it was destined for a devastating fate just 13 years after its construction, when Japanese troops tied explosives to its foundations towards the end of the Second World War. By 1966 38 / OPEN SKIES

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what remained was simply irreparable, and the Crystal Arcade was demolished.

Conflict wasn’t the only reason behind the loss of Manila’s steel and concrete heritage, however.

Thanks to a population boom from 1.5 million in 1948 to the 13 million-strong metropolis it is today, the rush for living space has meant that much of its historic architecture has been left behind.

Bad decisions at government level have also played their part. The iconic Jai Alai building was considered one of the finest Art Deco buildings in Asia when it was built in 1940.

It survived the Battle of Manila relatively unscathed, but then was demolished in 2000 to make way for the Manila Hall of Justice – a building that was ultimately never built.

Thankfully, some structures have survived, and a walk around the city’s central districts is a great way to discover them. Binondo, home to the world’s oldest Chinatown, is crammed with Art Deco-builds, from the towering Capitol Theater to the ornate First United Building.

Further afield, abutting Manila in the lower reaches of Quezon City, you’ll find Quiapo Church, which sits beside the former Times Theater and the huge facade of the Far Eastern University. The square outside the church has been home to protests, rallies and soapbox speeches, making it one of the city’s political, as well as religious, hearts.

However the Metropolitan Theater is the jewel in Manila’s Art Deco crown. The salmon pink building, which stands beside the bend of the Pasig River on the edge of Intramuros, was inaugurated in 1931, when the Philippines was under US possession.

Partially destroyed in the war, the theatre fell into disrepair and was used at various times as a bar, motel, boxing arena and basketball court. Promises of renovation came and went under successive governments, and it seemed the Metropolitan would be doomed to a slow and public death.

In 2015, however, the ‘Met’ got an overdue state reprieve. It will now be restored, experts hope, within the next five years. “No other building in the Philippines would be in the same conversation as the Met when it comes to the sheer volume of talent, artistry and passion that has been seen through its walls,” says architect student Juancho Agoncillo.

Some locals have begun a fight to preserve other buildings beside the Met, too. Ivan May Dy is a tour guide and organiser of Old Manila Walks, which runs an Art Deco tour of the city.

Preservation of his favourite architectural style is important, “These works represent a period in Manila’s design history that was shaped by local architects,” he says. “It anchors Manila to her past.”

The walk is also a great way to explore the city: a way to look up beyond the chaotic street life and experience something that, while beautiful, is grounded in Manila’s palimpsest history. While Art Deco has become a byword for style and culture across the world, in Manila it acts as a historical record, too.

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OPEN SKIES / 39

EXPO 2020

UAE

a celebration oF cultures Why the cultural elements of Expo 2020 will drive its lasting legacy WORDS: Iain Akerman

55.2708° E

DUBAI

25.2048° N

“At the first Expo in London in 1851, there was a gentleman by the name of Adolphe Sax,” says Dr Hayat Shamsuddin, Senior Advisor Culture for Expo 2020 Dubai. “He had brass instruments that he wanted to showcase. And that was where the saxophone came to the attention of the world.”

Shamsuddin is passionate about stories of how exposure to culture during a World Expo has influenced some of the most famous artists and inventors worldwide.

She is working to create a similar legacy for Emirati culture, and

40 / OPEN SKIES

that of the 180 nations expected to participate in Expo 2020.

The renowned Emirati hospitality will begin the moment millions of visitors – 70 per cent from outside the UAE – arrive. The experience will continue through traditional food, music, storytelling, poetry, performance, theatre, architecture and even indigenous flora.

“We very much would like to ensure that the site reflects the UAE,” says Shamsuddin. “A lot of the aspects of programming will be specific to our part of the world, so you will have storytelling, which is very much in line with our traditions, you will have poetry, and you will have programming from the UAE but also from the other participating nations.”

Expo 2020 will also be a celebration of cultures from every

corner of the globe. The events programme is being curated in partnership with participating countries and will include celebrations from everywhere, including Chinese New Year, Diwali and Christmas.

Each of the three theme districts – Opportunity, Mobility and Sustainability – will include performance spaces, galleries, art installations and gardens. There will also be a children’s park and a dedicated events programme for families, while the iconic Al Wasl Plaza will have an innovative cover that doubles as a screen.

“If you’re flying over the Expo site you’ll be able to see the shows that are reflected on it,” says Shamsuddin.

“The Expo is about innovation and progress as well as people’s interpretation of their cultures.”

Interpretations have inspired great things at past Expos. Expo 2020 aims to nurture a similar legacy.

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Logan Square, chicago WORDS anD ImaGeS: Sarah frEEmaN

87.6298°W

CHICaGO

41.8781°N

Once open prairie land, Logan Square didn’t really become part of Chicago until 1889, and it was one of the last pockets of the city to be gentrified.

Flanked to the east by the Chicago River and bisected diagonally by Milwaukee Avenue, it now takes its place as one of the 77 neighbourhoods making up the city.

Its historical heart is the stately public square, where Milwaukee, Kedzie and Logan thoroughfares converge. Designed in the 1870s by William LeBaron Jenney (father of the American skyscraper), the centrepiece is a 70-foot tall marble column memorialising Illinois’ centennial.

One of the neighbourhood’s most famous landmarks sits nearby: the century-old Logan Theatre that, after decades of disrepair, was revived to its former Art Deco glory six years ago.

However it was Logan Square’s year-round Sunday Farmers’ Market (launched in 2007) that actually fuelled the area’s hip-ward shift.

Craft beer taverns like Revolution Brewing and artisanal cocktail lounges have since sprouted up, transforming it into one of the city’s trendiest drinking destinations.

Pleasingly, its foodie scene is refreshingly unpretentious. With a distinctly Latino feel – thanks to an influx of Hispanics to the neighbourhood in the early 1960s – expect to find Cuban carry-outs, Mexican grocery stores and more taco joints than is probably healthy. That said, El Cid Tacos on Milwaukee does the best tilapia tacos in town – so don’t miss that.

Naturally, there are other things to do in Logan besides lining your stomach, and in keeping with the area’s working class sensibility, much of it is free. Check out the public art scattered along The 606 (a railway line repurposed as an elevated greenway) or take in vibrant murals along Milwaukee Avenue. Alternatively, just take it easy at one of Logan’s four parks that are linked by beautiful leafy boulevards and studded with the neighbourhood’s signature greystone homes.

OPEN SKIES / 43 OPEN SKIES / 43

NEIGHBOURHOOD

START

1.

BUSY BEAVER BUTTON CO

For a novel start to your day that won’t cost you a thing, check out the 1,600 pin-back buttons that grace the factory walls of the world’s only button museum.

Sibling owners Joel and Christen Carter’s 18,000-strong archive spans genres such as politics to music, fine art, comic, sports and a few historical gems like Abraham Lincoln’s campaign button. You can also watch the daily quota of 30,000 buttons being churned out on vintage hand-cranked machines, destined for homegrown businesses in Logan Square, as well as big-name clients including Daft Punk and Adidas.

FOURTEENMINUTE WALK

3407 W ARMITAGE AVE | +1 773-645-3359 | BUSYBEAVER.NET

2.

THE 606

TWELVEMINUTE BICYCLE RIDE

Hop on your trusty Divvy bike and head south along N. Kimball Avenue to the 606 or Bloomingdale Trail – Chicago’s more democratic and elongated version of Manhattan’s High Line.

Unveiled in 2015, the abandoned railway line-turned-aerial parkway has triumphed in becoming a neighbourhood unifier – intersecting four districts that run east to west on the city’s northwest side. Floating above the traffic, cyclists, dog-walkers and runners congregate along the 4.3km trail, which is tethered to the ground by 12 access ramps.

ASHLAND (1600W) AND RIDGEWAY (3750W) | THE606.ORG OPEN SKIES / 45

neighbourhood

3.

Bang Bang Pie ShoP

There are nine Divvy bike-share depots in the Logan Square area.

Perfect for short rides of up to 30 minutes, you can bag a 24-hour pass for just US$9.95 divvybikes.com

Follow your nose along North California Avenue to Bang Bang, a neighborhood bakery that marries Midwestern pie heritage with a community-focused vibe. Do as Logan locals do and go the double slice route, with a classic blueberry cobbler and honey custard pie, washed down with their house-roasted coffee. Failing that, try one of their famous savoury biscuit sandwiches. The sausage doused in sweet grape jelly is a real winner.

2051 N CalIfOrNIa avE | +1 773-276-8888 | baNgbaNgPIE.COm

TENmINuTE WALK

4.

galerie F

You don’t need to traipse the city’s Wabash Arts Corridor to view the best of Chicago’s street art. Galerie F houses the dynamic talent of street artists like Mosher (a long-time Logan Square resident), together with silkscreen rock and roll gig posters. Owner Billy Craven (himself a practicing screen-printer and street-art aficionado) has been a driving force behind Logan’s thriving arts community. More than just a regular art space, Galerie F hosts monthly live drawing event, Draw, Draw, Draw, screen-printing classes and pop-up print sales (with a barbecue) on the back patio. Head to the multi-purpose basement where you can listen to records and play chess, or venture into the rear alleyway to check out the freshly sprayed murals.

2415 N mIlwauKEE avE | +1 872-817-7067 | galErIEf.COm OPEN SKIES / 47

Neighbourhood

FIvEmINutE TAXI

5.

Lost Lake

If you’re going to order just one drink at cocktail guru Paul McGee’s tiki-styled bar, make it a Bunny’s Banana Daiquiri, and be prepared for a dolphin (fashioned out of a banana) to practically jump out of your conch-shaped vessel. If Lost Lake’s exotic brews don’t transport you to the South Pacific, there’s always the puffer fish lamps, piranha tank and oversized palm print wallpaper to get you in the mood.

3154 W DIvErSEy AvE | +1 773-293-6048, | lOStlAKEtIKI.cOm

FIvEmINutE WALK

6.

the Logan theatre

Making a pilgrimage to one of Logan’s most iconic landmarks is a fitting finale to your time here. This Art Deco, 1915-built, movie house has a reputation for hosting the best late-night screenings in the city. As well as showing classic films, blockbuster hits, indie movies and cult classics, it hosts plenty of events for non-movie goers, like stand-up comedy and trivia evenings. The neighbourhoodminded theatre also partners with local Logan businesses such as Revolution Brewing (check out the craft beers) and Galerie F, that supplies silkscreen posters for special theatre screenings.

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48 / OPEN SKIES

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GHOSTS OF CHRISTMAS PAST Our new columnist, Dom Joly, on the perils of travelling for the festive season IMAGE: Adam Patterson

27.8493° E

ZAMBIA

13.1339° S

When I was growing up, I went to school in the UK but lived in Lebanon.

Because of the political situation there at the time, however, I wasn’t always able make it home to the Middle East from the UK for the school holidays.

One Christmas, when Beirut airport was closed, I got a lastminute invitation from a school friend to spend the holidays with him and his family at their home in Kitwe, a mining town in the north of Zambia.

We arrived on the morning of Christmas Eve, and as soon as I’d met his parents I could tell that it was going to be a tricky week. To say that they were quite intense would be an understatement. I don’t think they took an instant shine to my spiky hair and teenage angsty vibe either.

To make matters worse, I was a vegetarian at the time, and militantly into animal rights. This was a problem. Zambian Airlines did not cater for vegetarians and neither, as it turned out, did my hosts. I was starving when I arrived early in the morning, but breakfast at my festive home consisted of a plate of sausages and some fruit juice. Lunch didn’t fare much better either: a massive pair of steaks grilled to destruction on the enormous barbecue in the garden.

By this point I was famished and, while the rest of the family lay around the pool, I spotted a large fridge and had a look inside. There, on the top shelf, was an enormous

bar of Cadbury’s Fruit & Nut. It was like an oasis to a thirsty desert traveller. I opened the wrapping, snapped off four rows of the oh-so inviting chocolate, and gobbled it down. My appetite sated, I joined the family by the pool and thought nothing more of it.

Around half an hour later, the cook came rushing outside and urgently whispered something into the father’s ear. In an instant he went puce red, immediately ordering everybody inside: the family, the staff… and me. Once assembled in the living room, our inquisitor began

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screaming at us, demanding to know exactly who had eaten the chocolate.

He was livid and, naturally, I was too terrified to own up. We were there for a good 20 minutes before he closed with the immortal line, “Someone amongst us is a liar and they will be made to pay for their actions…”

After an extremely uncomfortable supper (lamb chops, no veg, no potatoes) I decided to go to bed and try to work out how to solve the chocolate conundrum. I closed my door, got undressed and climbed into bed. I was tired and I was stressed, but the drama wasn’t quite over for the day.

As I pulled the string by my bed, reasonably assuming it would turn out the bedroom lights, a piercing siren wailed out and bright spotlights began to dart across the family compound. Through the window I could make out the father scouring the garden armed with a shotgun. Ten minutes later he burst into my room, still with the gun in his hands.

“Did you pull the alarm?” he screamed in apoplexy.

“No… not me…” I stammered, and he stormed out to spend the rest of the night patrolling the garden in his underpants. This was the first night of my Zambian Christmas, and things didn’t get much better.

But the story is now part of my family folklore. Whenever anything bad happens over the holidays we always console ourselves by saying, “Ah well, don’t worry... it can’t be as bad as Zambia.”

OPEN SKIES / 51

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FEATURES the new age of adventure • italy’s hidden treasures

the new age of adventure Glaciers, icebergs, Arctic storms and a full turndown service.

Turn over to gently go extreme OPEN SKIES / 53

h a s

of aDVENTURE As luxury liners negotiate the frozen wastelands of Greenland and the Arctic Ocean, we examine the not-sobrave new world of adventure travel

T H E f A C E

C H A N G E D f o R E V E R ?

WORDS: CJ Hannon

greenland

71.7069° N

42.6043° W

GREENLAND

Standing on a gorse-strewn bluff looking down on one of the world’s great natural wonders, it’s hard to conceive of how something so beautiful is so totally unknown.

In terms of exposure, it’s the very antithesis of the world’s traditional sites: the Pyramids of Giza, the lost city of Petra, Macchu Pichu, all photographed, consumed, hashtagged and tweeted to the point where the real thing is often no match for the image in your head.

Not so the Ilulissat Icefjord, a mammoth and mindboggling procession of ice, slowly making its way into the Davis Strait on the western reaches of Greenland. The huge chunks of ice, drifting past at a rate of 40 metres a day, are calved off by the legendary Sermeq Kujalleq glacier, 40km to the east. It’s believed that the iceberg that sank the Titanic in 1912 came from this glacier, but in terms of lifespan that’s nothing. Some of the ice floating here is more than 250,000 years old; it’s nature at its most raw and primal.

A few kilometres away, anchored in Disko Bay, is the National Geographic Explorer. Originally an expedition ship, it has been fitted out to cater to the demands of the 21st century tourist. This Lindblad expedition is at the edges of the luxury tourism market – a place where the one per cent forgo private pools and beachside manicures for a hike through untouched tundra and whale watching at the top of the world.

But this is no cruise, and the ship is staffed with highly trained biologists and scientists, photographers and historians; a team that can help people understand what they are seeing and why. This type of educational travel has become something of a trend, and this year has seen trips to the Galapagos Islands led by the evolutionary biologist Richard Dawkins, as well as by renowned author, psychologist and linguist, Steven Pinker and his wife, Rebecca Goldstein, a novelist and philosopher.

When presented in those terms, it’s difficult to argue with the benefits of such a trip. The volcanic archipelago in the Pacific is where Charles Darwin arrived at his theory of evolution, and a select group got to walk in his footsteps – for a price – hosted by some of the world’s foremost experts. What could be better than that?

But while a trip promoting a greater understanding of the natural world is commendable, there is an underlying fear that luxury and edge-of-the-world danger could eventually coalesce into some outrageously expensive mix. Are we looking at velvet-lined helicopter trips over 56 / OPEN SKIES

the Amazon, with David Attenborough live-narrating through an intercom? Or perhaps a Segway trip through Panama’s perilous Darién Gap? Regardless of the industry end-game, there is now an undeniable desire for more from our travel experiences.

Attitudes are changing and what used to be classed as unique has become the norm. New York was once a byword for the trip of a lifetime, but for many it’s now just another metropolis, dotted with global brands and countless selfie-stick wielding tourists.

Sure, you can book a suite in Waldorf Astoria, but you can book stunning suites from Shanghai to Rio. Cities have become a series of branded objects and retail destinations, one much like the other. Trafalgar Square?

Four Arctic Adventures Trips for those with an icy sense of daring-do

1

Svalbard

A Norwegian archipelago deep in the Arctic Circle, Svalbard has it all: from the Northern Lights and glaciers to polar bears and whales.

2

Iceland

A land of fire and steam, Iceland is spectacular.

Explore a landscape of volcanoes, lava fields, hot springs and bleak beauty.

3

The Empire State Building? The Colosseum? Seen it, done it, posted it online.

In comparison, back on board the Explorer and sailing up the Davis Straight, we have Greenland’s ragged, brutal shoreline to the east, the occasional blue whale breeching, and a procession of icebergs interrupting the poker-flat sea. There’s not another tourist, indeed not another human, in sight.

Some, of course, would consider this cheating. A bourgeoisie attempt at extreme travel – adventure made easy. Historically, this type of trip would result in one of two things: death or fame. Death, if it did come, would be prolonged and gruesome. Fame would be – just about – worth it. The first explorers who visited the

The North Pole

The North Pole has long been on explorers’ bucket lists, although due to the cold, you will only be able to stay there for an hour.

4

Ilulissat Icefjord

This Unesco World Heritage Site, is a stunning fjord found in western Greenland, with the famed Sermeq Kujalleq at its eastern tip.

OPEN SKIES / 57

greenland

home comforts or not, we were present in the Arctic, braving subzero temperatures and viewing icebergs. should you suffer hardship to be authentic?

Arctic – rugged, slightly mad men – were amazed. How to explain the Northern Lights, or the giant white bears, or the days and nights of darkness? When the Greek sailor and explorer Pytheas arrived in 325BC, he described the frozen sea as “curdled”, and on his return to Greece was promptly regarded as a fantasist. No one, it was thought, could survive these “uninhabitable reaches”, if they even existed in the first place. The boundaries of fact and fiction were often stretched during the early years of Arctic exploration, not helped by the fact that those in the west couldn’t comprehend its vastness or, in their eyes at least, its strangeness. On an expedition in the 17th century, French author Pierre Martin de la Martiniere wrote: “Nearly all those who live above the Arctic Circle are sorcerers, who control the winds at will.” Thankfully, by the 19th century such fantasies had become less prevalent and the first tourists began to trickle north. Some sailed private sailboats north of Alaska, while others took part in the first tour groups, exploring Svalbard and the regions north of Norway. At this time, simply being able to see what lay north of the Arctic Circle was perceived as luxury.

the scene Greenland is all about natural spectacles, a mix of breathtaking beauty and other-worldly vastness

But while tourism might have existed even then, the majority of Arctic travel was based on covering ground, planting flags and reaching peaks. It was about endurance and sacrifice, and it didn’t always end well.

In the meantime, the masses were basking in the glow of the great tourism boom of the 1950s and ’60s, generally seen as two weeks away for summer and starring a beach location billed as the height of luxury. With the advent of cheaper air travel, it morphed into a series of weekend breaks in cities across the world and then longer, ‘experiential’ adventures.

The choice that now exists has, unintentionally, created a hierarchy of travel. There’s the classic tourist, who visits cities for a week or two; the backpacker, who travels for a year but barely survives on a budget; and the traveller, who wanders the globe at will, with no itinerary or plan other than to credibly experience the world.

You could say that one aim of the new breed of luxury travel is to make tourists feel like travellers. Lindblad is not the only company taking this route. A company called DNA Unwrapped takes your DNA test and then tailors a trip based on the results. Or, if you’re feeling guilty about being part of the one per cent, a 1,300-acre nature reserve in Nicaragua – the Nekupe Sporting Resort and Retreat – combines luxury (Michelin-inspired meals, a high-end spa) with the knowledge that the resort practices sustainable tourism and safeguards an area once prey to slash-andburn agriculture.

According to Sarah Kennedy Ellis, VP of global marketing at Sabre Hospitality Solutions, this is a big driver of luxury travel right now. “We see guests moving beyond traditional ideas of status and embracing highlybespoke travel opportunities that focus more on the individual traveller’s personality and values and less about expressing opulence.”

Of course, you can’t hide from the fact that this is a rather more genteel form of adventure. On board the Explorer, an expedition it might have been, but we weren’t exactly braving the realities of Arctic travel. Problems were

the DetAILs GREENLAND VIsIt: MAY TO AUGUST

cURRent teMP: LOW -15/HIGH 37°F see: NATIONAL GREENLAND MUSEUM

POPULAtIOn: 56,186

For more adventures in Greenland on today’s flight check out Explorers: Into Twin Galaxies – A Greenland Epic showing on Red Bull TV, channel 1295 on ice Digital Widescreen.

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Greenland

Sermeq Kujalleq The glacier behind the iceberg that sank Titanic The Jakobshavn Glacier (Sermeq Kujalleq in Greenlandic) has helped develop our understanding of climate change and icecap glaciology. Featured in the 2012 documentary, Chasing Ice, it had the longest calving event ever captured on film (75 minutes) leaving the crew to comment, “The calving of a massive glacier, believed to have produced the ice that sank the Titanic, is like watching a city break apart.�

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SharjahMuseumsAuthority

Image: Bennett Goldberg

greenland

less rationing and wondering how we would survive the temperature drop, and more about whether there would be chocolate mousse for dessert (there was). Meanwhile, in-cabin TV has the latest Hollywood films, a variety of National Geographic documentaries and a daily turndown service. This is exploration that comes with a branded dressing gown and headed notepaper.

But home comforts or not, we were present in the Arctic, braving sub-zero temperatures and viewing icebergs. Must a person suffer hardship to be recognised as authentic travellers – and should we even care?

The philosopher Alain de Botton says we need to be clearer about why we choose to travel in a certain way. “In the future, we would ideally be more conscious about it – aware that we were on a search for places that could deliver psychological virtues such as ‘calm’ or ‘perspective’. A visitor to Monument Valley in Utah wouldn’t just be in it for a bit of undefined ‘adventure’, something to enjoy and then gradually forget about two weeks later; travelling to the place would be an occasion fundamentally to reorient the personality. It would be the call-to-arms to become a different person; a 5,000-mile, US$4,000 secular pilgrimage properly anchored around a stage of profound character development.”

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Our psyches are certainly enriched by the fact that our experiences are no longer just experiences, but content too. We filter and distribute what we see through social channels such as Instagram and Facebook. This is why the storm, which arrived on the final evening, was so welcome. It was weather as an event, and as content.

People could tweet: ‘Survived an Arctic storm!’ and bathe in whatever reactions they got. We consumed the storm and handed it to the masses.

But it developed us as people, too. We are better human beings for having seen a blue whale breech, and for having been tossed around in a violent weather event off the coast of Greenland. Certainly our posttrip stories will be better, and therefore so will the experience of our future dinner guests. If travel, like everything else in 2017, is a commodity, then why not consume it as such?

For now, luxury experiential travel shows no sign of abating. You can train as a cosmonaut if you have US$89,500 to spare, or descend into the magma chamber of a dormant Icelandic volcano. With manned missions to Mars looking like a real possibility, the Red Planet will surely be up next for the intrepid – and wealthy – traveller.

the ship The National Geographic Explorer has an Open Bridge policy, meaning you can annoy the captain at will

Note: All listed numbers are within UAE

The hidden Treasures

in italian libraries Leave the packed streets of the city behind.

The beauty of Italy can be discovered within the halls of its reading rooms

WORDS: DAVID LASKIN

IMAGES: SUSAN WRIGHT

italy

12.3155° E

VENICE

45.4408° N

In the madness of late spring at San Marco Square in Venice, amid the hordes pouring in from land and sea, I found the still point of the turning world.

I found it in the library.

It was 10 in the morning and I was standing, alone and enthralled, on the second floor balcony of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana. Across the Piazzetta rose the Doge’s Palace. At my feet, tourist insanity. At my back, an immense, hushed, empty reading room designed by Jacopo Sansovino and decorated by Titian and Veronese.

Why go to the library in Italy when all around you there is fantastic art, exalted architecture and deep history?

Because, as I discovered in the course of a rushed but illuminating week dashing from Venice to Rome, Florence and Milan, the country’s historic libraries contain all of those without the crowds.

Accompanied by my friend Jack Levison (a Bible scholar who was in Italy to study ancient manuscripts), I hit six libraries in a literary Giro d’Italia. Not once were we shushed or told not to touch.

Carlo Campana, the librarian on duty in the Marciana manuscript room when we arrived, was typical in his affable erudition. With a pirate’s flashing grin, Campana left his post to take me on a tour of the library’s monumental public rooms.

“The Marciana was built here as part of the 16thcentury project to create a triumphal entry to the city from the lagoon,” he said, joining me on the balcony off the salone, Sansovino’s palatial reading room. “Situating the library in the most important place in Venice reflects the prestige of the book in the culture of the city.” Knit

seamlessly into the architectural fabric surrounding San Marco, the Marciana was hailed by Italian architect, Palladio, as the richest and most ornate building “since Antiquity” when it opened in 1570.

Originally, the Marciana’s salone was filled with walnut desks to which codices (ancient bound manuscripts) were chained, but in 1904 the chamber was converted to an exhibition and lecture space. Today, you can visit using the same admission ticket that gives you access to the Doge’s Palace and the nearby Correr Museum.

I gazed at the Titians, Veroneses and Tintorettos that adorn the walls and ceiling. Yes, the library has books, too – one million of them – but to my eyes the Marciana itself is as precious as its holdings.

Rome has no shortage of important, and stunning, libraries, and I managed to squeeze in three during my culture binge there. The Angelica, the Casanatense and the Vallicelliana are in the part of Rome I know and love best – the historic centre anchored by Piazza Navona.

Originally associated with different religious orders (the Augustinians, the Dominicans and the Oratorians), these three libraries, now run by the state, retain some of the unique spirit of the clerics who established them.

To my mind the most fascinating of these clerics was the 16th-century priest (and saint) Filippo Neri, the charismatic founder of the Oratorians and their library, the Biblioteca Vallicelliana. In the tumultuous world of Rome in the Counter-Reformation, Neri was something of a folk hero, a street preacher who devoted his life to the poor, and paradoxically won a following among the rich and powerful. Neri’s Oratorians took no vows and were bound by no formal rules aside from a OPEN SKIES / 67

italy

Treasures within An early edition of Dante’s long narrative poem, Divine Comedy. Widely regarded to be one of the finest examples of Italian literature in existence, it was completed in 1321, just one year before his death.

Unfortunately, no original manuscript is believed to have survived.

commitment to humility and charity, and yet they dwelt in a gorgeous convent designed by Francesco Borromini, the most sought after architect in Baroque Rome after Bernini. The Vallicelliana was their library.

The next day, I visited the Angelica and the Casanatense libraries and found them a fine study in contrasts. Where the Angelica is small, plush and perfectly faceted, the Casanatense is spartan and muscular. The Angelica reflects the wealth of its Augustinian founders, whose church, the Basilica di Sant’Agostino, adjoins the library, while the Casanatense shows its Dominican roots in its deep collection of books and codices on church doctrine and natural history.

“The salone of the Angelica is a kind of vaso dei libri – a vessel of books,” the library’s brisk director, Fiammetta Terlizzi, told me proudly as we surveyed the four tiers of bookshelves that line the walls of this splendid chamber.

“The room has the height and perspective of a cathedral.”

After lunch, I whiled away what remained of the afternoon at the Casanatense. The library’s “salone monumentale” is the perfect antidote for what the writer Eleanor Clark called the “too-muchness” of Rome. Whitewashed, cavernous and presided over by a pair of enormous 18th-century globes, this elegantly spare reading room is now used for exhibits and lectures. The rest of the library is a delightful warren of more whimsically decorated chambers, including the frescoed Saletta di Cardinale (the “little hall” of Cardinal Girolamo Casanate, who founded the library in 1700).

Among the Casanatense’s most prized holdings is an illuminated 14th-century “Teatrum Sanitatis” with its vivid depictions of medieval daily life, a collection of 18th68 / OPEN SKIES

QUIET PLEASE The reading room in the Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana, Florence

century herbals and the personal papers of composer Niccolò Paganini.

After Rome, I made the journey to Florence to check out the only library designed by Michelangelo, the Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana.

“Austere” was the word that came to mind as I entered his crepuscular vestibule and ascended to the portal of the reading room on a flight of oval steps carved from a somber grey stone known as pietra serena. No adjective I know does justice to the reading room itself. Rows of walnut benches that ingeniously double as lecterns – plutei, they are called – flank the sides of a central corridor paved in intricately patterned rose and cream terracotta.

Along the two lateral walls, stained glass windows face each other in precise rectangular alignment, illuminating the benches. The heavily carved wooden ceiling seems to flatten and deepen the space to infinity, like the vanishing point in a Renaissance landscape painting.

“There is a small club of libraries with truly deep holdings, and we are part of it,” said Giovanna Rao, the director of the library, when we met in her office, a former monastic cell off the cloister. “Our manuscript collection, which runs to 11,000 items, rivals that of the British Library or the National Library of France, though we are not a national library. And of course, no other library that enjoys the good fortune of having Michelangelo as its architect.”

In Milan, Biblioteca Ambrosiana comprises an art gallery, art school and ecclesiastical college,

ITALY

FOUR TO DISCOVER Amazing bookstores to visit on your travels

1

Shakespeare and Company, Paris, France

2

El Ateneo Grand Splendid, Buenes Aires, Argentina

3

Livraria Lello & Irmao, Porto, Portugal

4

Libreria Aqua Alta, Venice, Italy 70 / OPEN SKIES

“With a collection of ancient manuscripts rivalling the Vatican’s, the Ambrosian Library is worldclass… housing Leonardo’s Codex Atlanticus, a collection of 1,119 sheets of drawings and captions”

all housed in a rather severe neoclassical building close to the Duomo. It was the intention of Cardinal Federico Borromeo, who founded the Ambrosiana in 1609 and named it for the city’s patron saint, that the library, museum and schools be integrated and collaborative.

With a collection of ancient manuscripts rivalling the Vatican’s, the Ambrosian library is world-class. The library’s ornate 17th-century reading room, the Sala Federiciana, is incorporated into the museum, and, since 2009, has been used to display the institution’s greatest treasure: Leonardo’s Codex Atlanticus, a collection of 1,119 sheets of drawings and captions on subjects ranging from botany to warfare.

Surrounded by the gilded and sepia spines that line this mellow chamber, and dwarfed by its white barrel-vaulted ceiling, I lost myself for half an hour in Leonardo’s inspired doodles of catapults, primordial pontoon bridges and tripod-mounted cannons. The only other artwork in the old reading room is a Caravaggio still life: a basket of slightly worm-eaten fruit stuck with a few pocked, withered leaves.

The ingenious improvisations of a restless polymath and this stark memento mori by a disturbed visionary form a perfect pair of bookends for the Italian Renaissance.

Only in Italy, I reflected, and only in a library could I stand, alone and undisturbed, in the centre of a great city and peer into the mind of genius.

BRIEFING

news • inside emirates • destination • visa • Uae smart Gate • roUte map • fleet

taking luxury to new heights Emirates unveils the game-changing new interiors of its Boeing 777 fleet.

turn over for more news from emirates

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news

Emirates unveils new cabins for Boeing 777 fleet

thE ComplEtEly rEfrEshEd Boeing 777 interiors include the airline’s highly anticipated new First Class private suites. With floor-to-ceiling sliding doors and sleek design features

inspired by the Mercedes-Benz S-Class, the new suites really take luxury and privacy to the next level.

The multi-million dollar upgrade includes newly-designed seats and upgraded inflight entertainment systems in all cabin classes.

“The inflight experience is the heart of our brand and service proposition,” said Emirates President, Sir Tim Clark.

“Aside from our new fully enclosed private suites, Business Class features our latest fully-flat leather seats with personal minibars, Economy Class seats have adjustable full leather headrests, and the inflight entertainment system has been upgraded for all cabin classes.”

Bespoke livery for Emirates EmiratEs uNvEilEd a bespoke livery after receiving its 100th A380. The design features a special tribute to the late HH Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, the UAE’s founding father.

It is the first time that Emirates’ livery has featured a customised decal of a well-known public figure, marking the airline’s first initiative for the ‘Year of Zayed’, which commences in 2018 and coincides with the centennial of his birth.

His Highness Sheikh Ahmed Bin Saeed Al Maktoum, Chairman and Chief Executive, Emirates Airline and

Group, said, “His Highness Sheikh Zayed dedicated his life to the building of a prosperous UAE, and we are proud to celebrate his remarkable legacy and honour his memory. Sheikh Zayed left an indelible mark on our home, the UAE, and we hope to help preserve his legacy and spirit by spreading his message of inspiration, dedication and leadership around the world as our aircraft take to the skies and circle the globe.”

A total of 10 Emirates aircraft – five Airbus A380s and five Boeing 777-300ERs – will carry the livery.

Daily service to Algiers EmiratEs will iNCrEasE flights to Algiers to daily from December 13, with the launch of an additional flight that will further boost inbound and outbound passenger traffic and cargo flows between Algeria and Dubai.

The new service will operate every Wednesday with an Emirates Boeing 777-300 in a three-class configuration, offering eight seats in First Class, 42 in Business Class and 310 in Economy Class.

“In line with healthy commercial demand, we are pleased to introduce an additional service to Algiers, which will offer our customers even more choice and convenience to connect to Dubai and onward destinations, particularly in the Middle East, Far East, West Asia, Indian Ocean and Australia,” said Orhan Abbas, Emirates Senior Vice President, Commercial Operations, Africa.

Emirates launched services to Algiers on March 1, 2013. In less than five years, the route has carried more than half a million passengers.

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news

Flight boost for Nigeria EmiratEs will rEinstatE its second daily service to Lagos and resume operations to Nigeria’s capital city, Abuja, with four weekly flights from December 15.

The added frequencies to Lagos will be operated with Emirates’ Boeing 777-300ER aircraft. The reinstated service to Abuja will be served by a 360-seat Boeing 777300 in a three-class configuration.

“Nigeria is a key market for Emirates and its importance is reflected by the fact that we will add 11 weekly flights between Dubai and two major cities in Nigeria – Abuja and Lagos,” said Orhan Abbas, Emirates Senior Vice President, Commercial Operations, Africa.

Emirates Flight Training Academy opened EmiratEs’ statE-of-thE-art facility for training ab initio pilots has been officially inaugurated by His Highness Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice President and Prime Minister of the UAE and Ruler of Dubai.

The inauguration of the Emirates Flight Training Academy took place during Dubai Airshow.

Located in Dubai South, the academy has been developed in response to the global aviation industry’s increasing need for skilled pilots. It will combine

cutting-edge learning technologies and a modern fleet of training aircraft to train cadets with no previous knowledge of flying.

His Highness Sheikh Ahmed Bin Saeed Al Maktoum, Chairman and Chief Executive, Emirates Airline and Group, said, “The Emirates Flight Training Academy is designed to be one of the most advanced flight training facilities not just in the Middle East region, but in the entire world. The academy will train both UAE nationals as well as international cadets with its state-of-the-art facilities and fleet. We believe that the academy will set new benchmarks for next-generation pilot training, and strengthen Dubai’s position as a global hub for aviation.”

New codeshare destinations with Emirates and flydubai EmiratEs and flydubai have built on the early success of their partnership by adding 16 additional codeshare destinations.

The expanded network now includes sought-after destinations such as Zanzibar, Kathmandu and Kilimanjaro, all of which Emirates’ passengers can now travel to on a single ticket.

“We are thrilled with the positive response from travellers,” said Emirates President, Sir Tim Clark. “Nearly 14,000 sectors have been ticketed during the first week of operation, surpassing our expectations. We have witnessed strong demand for travel from Europe and the 76 / OPEN SKIES

United States to South Asian destinations.

“This partnership is an unprecedented opportunity for both airlines to unleash the combined power of their networks, offering travellers greater choice and flexibility when planning their trips.”

Ghaith Al Ghaith, Chief Executive Officer at flydubai, added, “The many benefits of Dubai’s international aviation hub have been recognised by travellers who have already shown that they are keen to explore the world together. The latest announcement will allow them to discover another 16 destinations as well as enjoy the unique personality of each airline.”

Experience Polynesia in the heart of Dubai Parks and Resorts Step into an exciting world of curiosity with an unforgettable stay at Lapita, a unique gateway to the endless fun and enjoyment on offer at Dubai Parks and Resorts.

Create moments to treasure with friends and family when you stay within Polynesian inspired rooms with complimentary theme park tickets,* bond over a meal at amazing restaurants or unwind at the Lapita lazy river.

Exactly like nothing else.

Book now at lapitadubaihotel.com Tel +971 4 810 9999 Lapita, Dubai Parks and Resorts, Autograph Collection Hotels Dubai Parks and Resorts, Sheikh Zayed Road, P.O. Box 334221, Dubai, UAE LapitaHotel | LapitaHotel | LapitaHotelDubai *Terms and conditions apply

The new height of luxury With a design inspired by the Mercedes-Benz S-Class, Emirates’ new First Class suites take luxury and privacy to the next level, all as part of its Boeing 777 fleet upgrade across all classes

ultimate privacy with fully enclosed private suites Your luxurious private suite is 7ft long, with floor-to-ceiling doors reaching up to 6ft 9in high. Each suite offers up to 40sq ft of thoughtfully designed privacy, meaning you can truly feel at home.

it’s inspired by mercedes-benZ Your First Class suite reflects the design philosophy of the Mercedes-Benz S-Class, uniting two global brands renowned for innovation, luxury, and comfort. It’s a partnership that extends to your complimentary chauffeur-drive service.

order room service via video call Dining is on demand, so order at any time during the flight via video call from your suite. Your à la carte multi-course meal is prepared by top international chefs.

game-changing virtual windows Don’t worry; private suites in the middle row have virtual windows, so you can admire the view regardless of where you sit – an exclusive feature to Emirates.

your seat is inspired by nasa for optimal comfort Enjoy a “zero gravity” setting inspired by NASA technology for maximum relaxation. The seat also converts to traditional positions using the wireless control.

enjoy the world’s finest wines The airline’s world-class wine programme takes the finest wines from the most prestigious wineproducing regions around the globe. This means you’ll be served some the most exclusive wines, champagnes and spirits.

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inside emirates

The enTerTainmenT is even beTTer The 32-inch full HD LCD screen, linked to Emirates’ award-winning ice inflight entertainment system, has next-gen tech, with improved image, touchscreen and LED backlight. It’s perfect for watching our 2,500 channels of entertainment.

Your headphones are nexT level The Active Noise Cancelling E1 headphones from Bowers & Wilkins were created exclusively for Emirates, and use a unique hybrid noise cancellation technology optimised specifically for the Emirates First Class cabins.

be inspired Each suite has an Inspiration Kit that includes a Byredo skincare range that was launched exclusively in Emirates First class.

Your kit also includes a notebook and pen to jot down stories, memories and ideas.

You can reallY check ouT The view If you’d like to find out what’s happening down below, you can now get a better view of the world outside your window with the Steiner Safari binoculars that are available in your suite.

freshen up wiTh bulgari ameniTY kiTs Emirates has partnered with the luxury Italian brand, Bulgari, to create exclusive designer kit bags that include signature Bulgari fragrances and lotions, along with other pampering essentials.

sleep well Your pyjamas use Hydra Active Microcapsule Tech. This sees billions of capsules applied to the fabric gently release naturally-moisturising Sea Kelp as you move, keeping your skin hydrated during the flight.

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BrisBane From december 1, emirates will operate a third daily service to Brisbane. here’s our guide to the capital of Queensland

The Third-largesT ciTy in Australia and one of the country’s oldest metropolitan areas, Brisbane is a lush, colourful and welcoming metropolis.

It is also the capital of Queensland and one of Australia’s most up-and-coming cities, replete with gleaming high rises, rooftop bars, art galleries and fashionable restaurants.

Indeed, a level of big-city sophistication has been injected into this subtropical urban area, even if Brisbane was once regarded as little more than a bigger-than-usual country town. Now boutique shops, music venues and upscale restaurants are transforming the city. But don’t get too formal just yet. With parks, outdoor attractions and a climate worth moving for, it’s still as easy-going as ever.

Traditionally a natural waypoint between the Sunshine Coast to the north and the Gold Coast to the south, the city itself is wrapped around the Brisbane River, while its eastern fringe is lapped by Moreton Bay, one of Queensland’s most important coastal resources.

A former penal colony, no doubt Brisbane’s population has heard all the convict jokes before, even if precious few traces of the original settlement remain. What does remain, however, is the city’s distinct Queenslander architecture.

These quintessential all-timber buildings have wide verandas designed to catch the breeze, which is understandable considering the city’s climate.

Even in winter it rarely drops below the early 20s, with Brisbane enjoying hot, humid summers and dry, moderately warm winters. Which naturally befits the capital of the ‘Sunshine State’.

Operated by a Boeing 777-200LR, Emirates’ new third daily service to Brisbane launches on December 1. Flight EK430 departs Dubai at 22:20hrs, arriving in Brisbane at 18:35hrs the following day. The return flight EK431 departs Brisbane at 22:25hrs, arriving in Dubai at 07:00hrs the following day.

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DESTINATION

E’CCO BISTRO

URBANE

HIMALAYAN CAFE

eccobistro.com.au

urbanerestaurant.com

+61 7 3358 4015

E’cco was first opened in 1995 by Philip Johnson, one of the country’s most celebrated chefs, and refurbished in 2014. Situated in a converted tea warehouse, it places flavour and produce above all else, serving seasonal Mediterranean and Asian-inspired contemporary Australian dishes.

There’s a screen of bronze mesh at Urbane, designed to provide diners with privacy from the outside world. It’s a nice touch and one that Argentinian chef Alejandro Cancino takes pride in. What’s more, the restaurant’s globally-influenced menu revels in taste and seasonal produce, with a dash of experimentation.

Situated in Brunswick Street, you’d be hard pressed to miss the Himalayan Cafe.

Painted bright red with splashes of yellow and blue, it is one of the city’s most popular culinary destinations and a hive of lamps and spices. Try the Nepalese goat stew or its famous Sherpa chicken – the place is perfect for an alternative night out.

SPICERS BALFOUR HOTEL

THE NEW INCHCOLM HOTEL & SUITES

NEXT HOTEL BRISBANE

spicersretreats.com

inchcolm.com.au

nexthotels.com

A charming and elegant boutique hotel with 17 rooms housed inside a traditional Queenslander mansion; Spicers Balfour Hotel is in the fashionable suburb of New Farm. Not far from the city centre and enjoying shaded courtyards, a gourmet restaurant and a rooftop bar, it’s hard not to be impressed.

SOUTH BANK

Any visit to Brisbane is best started in the South Bank district, which hugs the south bank of the Brisbane River and is filled with 17 hectares of parklands, restaurants, cafes, bars, boutiques, museums and galleries. There’s even the Wheel of Brisbane (a 197-foot tall Ferris wheel) and a manmade beach. visitbrisbane.com.au

A two-minute walk from Central Station, this elegantly-crafted boutique hotel is a 50-room, heritagelisted treat. Originally built in 1880, with the current neo-Georgian four-storey structure dating from the 1920s, the building was transformed into a hotel in 1998 and is both luxurious and rather stylish.

There’s a lot to be said for being central to the action, and if being in the thick of it is what you require from a hotel, then look no further. The Next Hotel is literally in the heart of Brisbane.

With an entrance onto the Queen Street Mall and access to shops, cinemas, restaurants and bars, everything is little more than a short stroll away.

GALLERY OF MODERN ART

STORY BRIDGE ADVENTURE CLIMB

qagoma.qld.gov.au

sbac.net.au

Situated in the South Bank area, the Gallery of Modern Art is home to contemporary art from Australia, Asia and the Pacific and is adjacent to the Queensland Art Gallery. Both form a single institution, with a combined collection of over 17,000 works of historical, modern and contemporary art.

If you don’t mind heights and are partial to a spot of adventure, then this is for you. Not only does standing on top of Brisbane’s iconic steel cantilever bridge get the blood flowing, but it also offers wonderful views of the city, the river, and out towards Moreton Bay.

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Comfort

Comfort in the air

To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time onboard with Emirates today.

Smart Traveller

DRink plEnTY of WATER

Rehydrate with water or juices frequently.

Drink tea and coffee in moderation.

TRAvEl lighTlY

Carry only the essential items that you will need during your flight.

BEfoRE YouR JouRnEY

Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition.

Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications?

Get a good night’s rest before the flight.

Eat lightly and sensibly.

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WEAR glAssEs

Cabin air is drier than normal, therefore swap your contact lenses for glasses.

AT ThE AiRpoRT

usE skin moisTuRisER

Apply a good quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.

Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in.

Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress.

Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

kEEp moving

Exercise your lower legs and calf muscles. This encourages blood flow.

DuRing ThE flighT

mAkE YouRsElf comfoRTABlE

Chewing and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent.

Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy.

Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently.

Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

Loosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body.

shARps BoxEs

Sharps boxes are available onboard all Emirates flights for safe disposal of medical equipment.

Please ask a member of your cabin crew for more information.

WhEn You ARRivE

Try some light exercise, or read if you can’t sleep after arrival.

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VISA GUIDE

Guide to US customs & immigration

Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hasslefree as possible.

Customs Declaration Form

All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

ElEctronic SyStEm for travEl authoriSation (ESta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Program, you must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure.

ESta factS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending.

A successful ESTA application is valid for two years. However, this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.

apply onlinE at www.cbp.gov/ESta nationalitiES EligiblE for thE viSa waivEr*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**

* **

84 / OPEN SKIES

Subject to change Only British Citizens qualify under the Visa Waiver Program.

www.moorfields.ae/dubai

Moorfields Eye Hospital Dubai is the first overseas branch of Moorfields London, the oldest eye hospital in the world. We are one of the few medical facilities in the UAE licensed by the General Civil Aviation Authority to apply the rigorous eye screening tests for pilots and air traffic controllers required to ensure your comfort and safety. We have a dedicated team of consultants who are highly qualified in assessing Aviation professionals and authorised to certify them as fit-to-fly from a vision perspective.

Our experienced Consultant Ophthalmologists deliver the same exceptional standard of screening, diagnosis and treatment to all of our patients. We provide the full spectrum of eye care services from simple eye tests to complex eye surgery including LASIK, glaucoma, cataracts, lazy eye, squints, corneal, ocluoplastics and retinal eye diseases associated with diabetes, as well as uveitis treatment, ocular oncology consultations and genetic eye disease testing and counselling.

Your eyesight is very precious, if you or any of your family have any concerns, please contact us today as early detection and treatment can prevent more lasting and serious consequences.

For more information visit www.moorfields.ae/dubai, or call +971 4 429 7888 today to book your appointment.

LASIK CATARACT COSMETIC PAEDIATRIC OPHTHALMOLOGY

RETINA CORNEA GLAUCOMA STRABISMUS

MOH BM76019

Pilots trust us with their eyesight, shouldn’t you?

VISA GUIDE

Cut the queue at JFK with Quick Connect If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service.

The US Customs And Border Protection agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.

Follow these steps

1

Have your boarding card or ticket for your connecting flight ready for the ground staff as you exit.

2

You’ll be given a Quick Connect card. Continue to the Quick Connect queue in the Arrivals Hall.

3

After passport clearance, claim your baggage and clear US customs, regardless of your final destination.

4

If your bag is tagged to your final destination, hand it to Emirates staff at the transfer counter for your onward flight.

Quarantine in Australia Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card.

You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left onboard.

Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.

Quarantine in Japan Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items.

You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if: • You have recently been to a livestock farm • Are bringing livestock products into Japan • Your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock The counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer.

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AMERICAN HOSPITAL DUBAI PLASTIC, RECONSTRUCTIVE AND COSMETIC SURGERY

LOOK BETTER, FEEL BETTER, BE BETTER.

American Hospital Dubai’s new Plastic Surgery Department thrives on the same high standards as the hospital and prides itself on integrity, quality and safety.

We offer a comprehensive plastic, reconstructive, and cosmetic surgery services: •

Hand Surgery (Trauma & Elective)

•

Burn Repair Surgery

•

Breast Reconstruction (following mastectomy)

•

Skin Cancer Management

•

Cosmetic Surgery (Body, Breast, & Face)

To book an appointment, please call +971 4 377 5500 or visit w w w.ahdubai.com

American Hospital Dubai accepts most major health insurance plans, please call (+971) 800 - 5500

MOHAP - OQ40104 - 26/02/2018

Please visit our website for the complete list of procedures

Be Smart!

Use UAE Smart Gate at Dubai International Airport Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International by using UAE Smart Gate.

If you hold a machine-readable passport, an E-Gate card or Emirates ID card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds.

Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International Airport.

Using UAE Smart Gate is easy

1

Have your machine-readable passport, E-Gate card or Emirates ID card ready to be scanned

2

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, place your E-Gate card or Emirates ID card into the card slot

OK!

3

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES

UAE SMART GUIDE

Go through the open gate, stand in the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When finished, the next set of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer. That’s it! Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you have landed.

IF YOU’RE A UAE RESIDENT

Remember to bring your Emirates ID card next time you’re travelling through DXB – you’ll be able to speed through passport control in a matter of seconds, without paying and without registering. Valid at all Smart Gates, located in Arrivals and Departures, across all three terminals at DXB. 88 / OPEN SKIES

*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY: • Machine-readable passports from the above countries • E-Gate cards • Emirates ID cards

INTERNATIONALLY ACCREDITED HEALTHCARE SERVICES AT YOUR DOORSTEP MEDICLINIC MIDDLE EAST OPERATES SIX HOSPITALS, OVER 20 CLINICS AND MORE THAN 700 INPATIENT BEDS ACROSS DUBAI, ABU DHABI, AL AIN AND THE WESTERN REGION.

EXPERTISE YOU CAN TRUST. A MEDICLINIC INTERNATIONAL COMPANY www.mediclinic.ae MOH MH52817-30.9.18

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ROUTE MAP

TRAVEL TO ADDITIONAL DESTINATIONS WITH OUR CODESHARE PARTNERS

Visit emirates.com for full details on our travel partners

With 22 codeshare partners in 25 countries (21 airlines and an Air/Rail codeshare arrangement with France’s SNCF/ TGV Air), Emirates has even more flight options, effectively expanding its network by over 300 destinations.

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*Suspended

ROUTE MAP

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CORPORATE & COMMERCIAL LEGAL SERVICES LITIGATION, ARBITRATION & ADR BUSINESS SETUP & COMPANY REGISTRATION OFFSHORE & FREE ZONE COMPANY FORMATION INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY & E-COMMERCE LAWS BANKING, INSURANCE & MARITIME LAWS REAL ESTATE & CONSTRUCTION LAWS MEDICAL NEGLIGENCE DRAFTING & CONTRACT REVIEWS LEGAL TRANSLATION DEBT COLLECTION TRADEMARK & PATENT REGISTRATION PROTECTION & ENFORCEMENT

DUBAI

EMIRATES TOWERS 14th Floor, Sheikh Zayed Road P.O. Box: 9055, Dubai-UAE T+971 4 330 43 43 F +971 4 330 39 39

ABU DHABI

JABEL ALI

SHARJAH

INTERNET CITY

TEL: +971 2 639 44 46 auh@emiratesadvocates.com TEL: +971 6 572 86 66 shj@emiratesadvocates.com

TEL: +971 4 887 16 79 jafz@emiratesadvocates.com TEL: +971 4 390 08 20 dic@emiratesadvocates.com

RAS AL KHAIMAH

TEL: +971 7 204 67 19 rak@emiratesadvocates.com

UAE | SAUDI ARABIA | QATAR | BAHRAIN | KUWAIT | OMAN

ROUTE MAP

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Emirates Fleet

Our fleet of 271 aircraft includes 257 passenger aircraft and 14 SkyCargo aircraft

AIRBUS A380-800 102 IN FLEET

This month:

1 arriving

All aircraft

20+ aircraft

BOEING 777-300ER 139 IN FLEET

Up to 489-615 passengers. Range: 15,000km. L 72.7m x W 79.8m

This month:

2 arriving

All aircraft 100+ aircraft

Up to 354-428 passengers. Range: 14,594km. L 73.9m x W 64.8m

BOEING 777-200LR 10 IN FLEET

All aircraft

Up to 266 passengers. Range: 17,446km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m

BOEING 777-300

5 IN FLEET For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet

All aircraft

Up to 364 passengers. Range: 11,029km. L 73.9m x W 60.9m

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FLEET HERE’S WHAT CONNECTIVITY, ENTERTAINMENT AND SERVICES ARE AVAILABLE ON BOARD EACH AIRCRAFT TYPE

Live TV, news & sport

Wi-Fi

Mobile phone

Data roaming

Number of channels

First Class Shower Spa

*Onboard lounge

**In-seat power

USB port

In-seat telephone

* First Class and Business Class; **Available in all rows in Economy Class, and in all seats in First Class and Business Class

AIRBUS A319

1 IN FLEET

Up to 19 passengers. Range: 7,000km. L 33.84m x W 34.1m

The Emirates Executive Private Jet takes our exceptional service to the highest level to fly you personally around the world. Fly up to 19 guests in the utmost comfort of our customised A319 aircraft with the flexibility of private jet travel. Further information at emirates-executive.com

EMIRATES SKYCARGO BOEING 777F 13 IN FLEET

EMIRATES SKYCARGO

BOEING 747 ERF 1 IN FLEET

This aircraft is capable of carrying up to 117 tonnes. The deck-side cargo door, with a height of approximately three metres, allows the uplift of

Range: 9,204km. L 70.6m x W 64.4m

oversized shipments that cannot be accommodated in the belly-hold of passenger aircraft. The nose door allows the carriage of long pieces.

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Aircraft numbers accurate at the time of going to press

Range: 9,260km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m

The most environmentally-friendly freighter operated today, with the lowest fuel burn of any comparably-sized cargo aircraft. Along with its wide main-deck cargo door which can accommodate oversized consignments, it is also capable of carrying up to 103 tonnes of cargo non-stop on 10-hour sector lengths.

CELEBRITY DIRECTIONS

David Guetta’s

GUIDE TO PARIS Each month, the great and good curate a travel itinerary exclusively for Open Skies. This month, a superstar DJ from France WORDS: Emma Coiler

2.3522° E

PARIS

48.8566° N

People don’t need me to tell them the major sights of Paris – they’re among the most famous in the world. My advice is to just fall in love with the city. Paris is one of the most unique places in the world – walk around, get lost, drink coffee, stop for wine and just watch Paris and its people go by.

If you’re looking for a family day out, then Disneyland Paris isn’t far outside the city; for older kids we have some of the most iconic museums in the world, and now we also have one of the best football teams in Europe – Paris St Germain. Go see Neymar play.

If you’re sightseeing, then the Eiffel Tower will always be the Eiffel Tower.

Of course, it’s not even close to being among the tallest buildings in the world anymore, but you can’t replicate the romance of it. For part of the Euro 2016 celebrations I played a set beneath it and the show was electric – so the place has special memories for me.

In my opinion, Paris comes alive after dark. There is so much to do in this city during the day but the magic, the beauty, and of course the clubbing, all happen at night.

If you’re looking to sort out your New Year’s Eve plans, then Le Queen is a Paris institution. Now this place is busy anytime, but on New Year’s Eve it’ll be crazy. It’s also home to some very talented DJs and as close to the iconic 1990s Parisian clubbing scene as you are going to get.

To recover after the big night, head for brunch at Les Bains. This was a nightclub until 2011 – and in the 1980s and ’90s it was probably the most famous one in all of Paris. I’ve played there and seen everybody from David Bowie to The Rolling Stones partying. The city shut it down, but it’s now open as a hotel – with the club now in the basement. They know their clientele – they serve breakfast until late in the afternoon. After some food here you should be ready to party again.

THE DETAILS ENJOY Disneyland Paris | Marne-la-Vallée SEE Eiffel Tower | Champ De Mars Emirates offers 20 weekly A380 flights to Paris.

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NEW YEAR’S EVE Le Queen | Champs-Élysées RECOVERY Le Bains | Rue du Bourg l’Abbé

PARIS

WE ALL SEARCH FOR NEW WORLDS But how do we find them? First, we used maps, books and astrolabes.

Now, we turn to cinemas and satellites.

As tools of exploration revealed the mysteries of our world, with the stars as guides to the borders of the oceans, we also searched within ourselves.

Could exploration create a map for the mind and soul, and lead us to purpose and belonging? We’re still discovering.

Within the museum’s twelve chapters, experience the many ways our common consciousness converges throughout art and history.

Young Emir Studying, Osman Hamdy Bey, Turkey, Istanbul (?) 1878 Oil on canvas, Louvre Abu Dhabi © Louvre Abu Dhabi / APF Astrolabe, Muhammad ibn Ahmad Al-Battuti, North Africa, Morocco (?) 1726–1727 Cast brass, silver nails Louvre Abu Dhabi © Louvre Abu Dhabi / Thierry Ollivier Folding screens showing the arrival of Portuguese merchants in Japan, Japan, About 1625, Ink, colours and gold on paper, Louvre Abu Dhabi © Louvre Abu Dhabi / Thierry Ollivier

PLAN YOUR VISIT louvreabudhabi.ae

Evening safari.

Private dinner.

Close encounters.

Unforgettable.

The Platinum CardÂŽ with its renewed travel and lifestyle privileges comes with a US$ 300 Travel Voucher* to enrich an already exquisite experience. Get your Platinum Card and prepare yourself for some truly memorable encounters.

Visit | americanexpress.com.bh/openskies Call : (+973) 1755 7788

Applicable for residents of UAE | Kuwait | Bahrain Oman | Jordan | Lebanon | Egypt | Qatar *Terms & conditions apply.

This Card is issued by AMEX (Middle East) B.S.C. (c) pursuant to a license from American Express. American Express is a registered trademark of American Express.

AMEX (Middle East) B.S.C. (c) – Emirates is regulated and licensed by the Central Bank of the UAE. AMEX (Middle East) B.S.C. (c) is regulated and licensed by the Central Bank of Bahrain as a Financing Company.