Open Skies | February 2014

HE T L L I W T A H W WORLD LOOK ?

4 5 0 2 N I E K I L Scientist James burke, named one of the most Intriguing minds in the western world, is going to tell you • OS 2 2014 Cover Final copy.indd 1

1/29/14 12:17 PM

Where glamour meets grandeur. Where majesty meets mystery.

There’s a cityscape that glimmers among the stars.

In a place where beauty is illuminated.

Spend your days wrapped in splendour.

Your nights lost in wonder.

Discover an unbelievable skyline.

Where the sky is no longer the limit.

And you think you’ve done it all?

Abu Dhabi. Travellers welcome.

contents / February 2014

74 51

40 33

Exploring Copenhagen’s Jægersborggade

Daniel Beban from experimental pop band Orchestra Of Spheres shares his favourite tracks

48 46

Paying a visit to the world’s oldest cinema

Chef Romain Meder from Alain Ducasse’s IDAM shares his favourite places to eat in Doha

9

Our comprehensive guide to Kuala Lumpur

Open skies / February 2014

57

We speak to the owner of a Dubai restaurant that has stayed true to its roots since the 1970s

Star Turkish architect and interior designer Zeynep Fadillioglu talks about her home city, Istanbul

contents / February 2014

80

America Meets The Beatles

Front (19) Calendar The Grid The Question The Street Skypod The Room

21 28 31 33 40 42

Consume BLD Mapped Local Knowledge

Main (65) James Burke Our Woman In America Meets The Beatles

45 48 51 57

brieFing (87) 66 74 80

News Comfort Visas & UAE Smart Gate Route Map The Fleet Last Look

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Open skies / February 2014

88 94 96 98 104 106

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EDITOR’S LETTER

W

Gareth Rees, Editor

“WHEN ALL MY FRIENDS WERE LISTENING TO MICHAEL JACKSON SHRIEKING ON CASSETTE TAPE, I WAS WEARING DOWN MY MOTHER’S OLD BEATLES COLLECTION ON VINYL.”

facebook.com/ twitter.com/ openskiesmagazine openskiesmag

hen I was eight years old, a friend and I built a medieval catapult from a wooden spoon, some bicycle inner tube, a couple of blocks of wood and a few rusty nails. Well, my friend’s father built it, but it was our idea.

Either way, the truth is that I was not cut out to be an inventor. I never received the science kit, complete with Bunsen burner i.e. potential house fire, which I asked for as a child, and I did not excel at science or computing in school. I wasn’t terrible at it, but when biology, physics or chemistry showed up on the timetable, I did not strap on my protective goggles, grab my well worn textbooks and high tail it to class. In fact, I preferred studying history, learning the lessons of the past, to the idea of building the technology of the future. What I did get excited about was George Orwell’s vision of a dystopian future controlled by the omnipresent Big Brother, Nineteen Eighty-Four. That somebody could draw such a detailed vision of the future impressed me greatly, even if by the time I was two years old Orwell had already been proved to be slightly off with his predictions.

Frankie Goes To Hollywood, yes. But Big Brother? Not quite. Anyway, I have always loved the idea of invention and, despite the speed of progress now, some technology still has the power to amaze me, especially if it doesn’t exist quite yet. So Geoff Brokate’s detailed profile of veteran scientist and TV presenter James Burke, in which Burke, a man who predicted the importance of the PC to our daily lives way back in the 1970s, talks about what the world will look like in 2054, was about as exciting for me as receiving a Bunsen burner for Christmas.

According to Burke, advances in nanotechnology will soon allow us to perform a real life Google search.

Where did you put your keys? Why not ask yourself? Imagine never losing anything ever again. And that’s just the

14

OPEN SKIES / FEBRUARY 2014

ON THE COVER / The image on our cover this month is of scientist and TV presenter James Burke. Burke, predicted the rise of the PC in the early 1970s, and although you probably don’t recognise him as he appears in Geoff Brokate’s image, he has is still a highly respected figure in the scientific community. In this issue he paints a picture of the world in 2054.

start of it. I hope you find James Burke as intriguing as I do.

Now to the past. Fifty years ago this month, in February 1964, British pop band The Beatles paid their first visit to the USA, kick-starting ‘Beatlemania’ on a global scale. The Beatles were the first band I loved, my introduction to music. When all my friends were listening to Michael Jackson shrieking on cassette tape, I was wearing down my mother’s old Beatles collection on vinyl. My favourite was a compilation, The Beatles/1962-1966, or The Red Album, as it came to be known. I still enjoy the early songs, which appear on Please, Please Me, With The Beatles (Meet The Beatles in the US), recorded before that US trip, and A Hard Days Night, released shortly after their return. But ‘breaking’ America changed the band and their music, and if you take a look at our photo essay, America Meets The Beatles, starting on page 80, you will see why.

I hope your enjoy both our look forward to the future and our look back to the past. Enjoy the issue.

CONTRIBUTORS

SOME OF THE PEOPLE WHO HELPED CREATE THIS MAGAZINE

LOUIS PATTISON

Louis is a Londonbased music writer, contributing to magazines such as NME, Uncut, The Guardian Guide and The Wire. He is also a published author, and his words have appeared in 1001 Albums and Late Century Dream: Movements In The US Indie Underground.

For this issue, he interviewed Daniel Beban of New Zealand art-rock group Orchestra Of Spheres.

“Orchestra Of Spheres feel like exactly the right sort of band to appear in the pages of Open Skies,” he says. “Their music is playful, colourful and inspired by all kinds of sounds from across the globe.”

GEOFF BROKATE

Geoff began his career as a filmmaker in his native Australia.

Since moving to the UK, he has exhibited his work at Cornerhouse in Manchester.

He has regularly produced work for The Guardian, New Statesman and CNN. He wrote and photographed this month’s cover feature, a profile of scientist and TV presenter James Burke.

“Meeting James Burke was a once-in-a-life time experience,” he says.

“He spoke with such intense confidence that I left his house feeling no doubt about his predictions for the future.

As I sat in the car, I realised that my world view had been turned upside down.”

POONAM GANGLANI

Poonam is a book editor and Dubai resident and has worked on numerous publications, including His Highness Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid’s My Vision and the awardwinning Khalaf Ahmad Al Habtoor: The Autobiography.

She visited Dubai’s Special Ostadi restaurant for this issue.

“Speaking to Special Ostadi’s owner Mohammed Ali Ansari was like stepping into a time capsule and going back to a fascinating period in history, while being pulled back to the present by the restaurant’s vibrant atmosphere,” she says.

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OPEN SKIES / FEBRUARY 2014

ANDREW BIRBECK

BRITTANY SHOOT

“I remember reading about the Lumière brothers when I was little,” he says.

“The vision of the audience running in panic when first seeing Arrival Of A Train At La Ciotat is burned into my memory.

What a joy to write about the Eden Theatre, the oldest cinema in the world, and where that legendary footage was first screened.”

“Jaegersborggade is one of the most unusual streets in the Nørrebro neighbourhood,” she says. “It’s Copenhagen’s answer to Brooklyn, known for a high density of vintage and secondhand stores and awardwinning cafés.”

Andrew contributes to a range of international publications and travel guides, as well as national titles such as The Irish Times and Irish Independent.

For this issue he wrote about the world’s oldest cinema.

Brittany is a freelance writer based in San Francisco. Her writing has appeared in Time, The New York Times, NewYorker. com and The Guardian. For this issue, Brittany returned to her former home city, Copenhagen, to write about one of its most intriguing streets.

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JĂŚgersborggade Discovering one of the most interesting streets in Copenhagen

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front La Ciotat: Visiting the world’s oldest cinema doha: A top chef shares his favourite places to eat out in the Qatari capital dubai: A family restaurant that is still going strong after almost 40 years

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Open skies / February 2014

46 48 57

february

CALENDAR

february 3 to 9, Mumbai, India

MuMbai international filM festival

February 1 to March 15, Europe

Six Nations

The six biggest European rugby union sides – England, France, Ireland, Italy, Scotland and Wales – fight it out for the Six Nations title. Wales will be looking to win their third Six Nations in succession, after they clinched the title from England in dramatic fashion at the Millennium Stadium last year.

Held in the city every two years since 1990, the Mumbai International Film Festival celebrates documentary, short and animation films, with entrants coming both from within India and internationally. The festival also includes workshops, seminars and masterclasses.

MIFF.In

rbs6naTIons.coM

February 2, new Jersey, Usa

Super Bowl XLVIII The winners of the American Football Conference will take on the champions of the National Football Conference in the biggest American football game of the year. Super Bowl XLVIII, which will be the first Super Bowl to be played outdoors in cold weather, will take place at New Jersey’s MetLife Stadium, home of the New York Giants and New York Jets, with halftime performances from Bruno Mars and Red Hot Chili Peppers. nFl.coM/sUpErbowl

february 1 to May 6, Tokyo, Japan

andy Warhol: 15 Minutes eternal

The largest retrospective of pop artist andy warhol’s work ever shown in Japan opens at Tokyo’s Mori art Museum this month. The exhibition will feature more than 700 warhol works, spanning his entire career.

MorI.arT.MUsEUM/Eng

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Open skies / February 2014

February 6 to March 8, New York, USA

FEBRUARY

CALENDAR

February 11 to 23, Singapore

MY FAIR LADY

Singapore’s Sands Theatre will present Broadway classic My Fair Lady this month. One of the most popular musicals ever, My Fair Lady is a love story set in Edwardian London, which follows cockney flower girl Eliza Doolittle as she is taught how to become a lady by Professor Henry Higgins.

Prince Igor

New York’s Metropolitan Opera will start its 2014 season with a performance of Borodin’s Prince Igor. It will be the first performance of the Russian epic at the Met for almost 100 years. Directed by Dmitri Tcherniakov and conducted

by Gianandrea Noseda, Igor will star bass-baritone Ildar Abdrazakov.

METOPERAFAMILY.ORG

MARINABAYSANDS.COM

February 14 to 18, London, UK

LONDON FASHION WEEK

One of the ‘Big Four’ fashions shows, along with New York, Milan and Paris, London Fashion Week, which takes place at London’s Somerset House, is celebrating its 30th year in 2014. The event showcases the creations of some of Britain’s biggest designers.

February 7 to 23, Sochi, Russia

LONDONFASHIONWEEK.CO.UK

Winter Olympics The 22nd Winter Olympics will be the first Olympics held in Russia since the break-up of the USSR. The event will feature 98 events in 15 winter sports, with the athletes competing at both the Sochi Olympic Park and the Krasnaya Polyana ski resort.

SOCHI2014.COM

Skypod

Orchestra Of Spheres 22

OPEN SKIES / FEBRUARY 2014

page 40

february

CALENDAR

until March 16, Taipei, Taiwan

Taipei arTs awards

February 25, Brisbane, Australia

one of Taiwan’s most prestigious contemporary art competitions, 245 artists entered the 2013 Taipei Arts Awards 2013. Winner po-chih Huang’s Five-Hundred Lemon Trees will be on display at the Taipei Fine Arts museum until mid-march, along with work by 11 other shortlisted artists.

Pearl Jam

The American rock stalwarts will perform at Brisbane’s QPAC Concert Hall as part of their 2014 Australia-New Zealand tour. The band will also play Perth, Sydney and Melbourne this month. peArljAm.com

TFAm.museum

february 16, Hong Kong

Hong Kong MaraTHon currently recognised as a silver label road race by the International Association of Athletics Federations, the Hong Kong marathon celebrates its 18th year in 2014, with more than 70,000 runners expected to brave the humidity. The event also features a half marathon and a 10km race.

Until March 16, london, uK

HKmArATHon.com

Only In England This exhibition of images by Martin Parr and Tony RayJones features a large selection of Ray-Jones’ photographs of the English at their eccentric best, including 70 previously unseen images from the National Media Museums archive, along with Parr’s own 1970s look at English social customs, The Non-Conformists. scIencemuseum.org.uK

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Open skies / February 2014

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Calendar

February 28 to March 16, Melbourne, Australia

Melbourne Food & Wine Festival

Melbourne Food & Wine Festival CEO, Natalie O’Brien, has overseen the organisation of one of Australia’s biggest foodie events since 2002

How long has the festival been running for?

The festival was dreamt up by Peter Clemenger back in 1993, and over the years it has grown from a handful of events to more than 200 events across the state of Victoria, attracting food lovers in their hundreds of thousands.

What can visitors expect to find this year?

Autumn is a great time to visit Melbourne. The weather is warm, everyone’s relaxed after a long summer and, most importantly, it’s vintage and harvest time across the state, so it is a particularly tasty time to visit. Victoria has incredibly diverse produce, and you can expect anything from new vintage wines to freshly shucked oysters. Artisan cuisine is particularly huge here, too – people just love to showcase quality local produce.

The festival’s theme is ‘water’.

What bearing will the theme have on the events taking place at the festival?

The theme of water will anchor the entire programme of events, whether it’s going out on fishing trips with top local chefs, learning how to make your own dehydrated food or exploring and tasting wines from the greatest aquatic appellations. We want people to immerse themselves in every sense of the word. We’re also excited to be working with world-leading design practice Hassell and Melbourne Water to create the festival’s hub for 2014: The Immersery Festival Kitchen, Bar and Raingarden, a spectacular multi-level temporary space on the banks of the Yarra River, which will be the place to meet, eat and drink over 17 days.

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Open skies / February 2014

Which chefs will be making an appearance?

For Langham Melbourne MasterClass we have renowned chefs from around the globe exploring concepts, techniques and methods connected with water. This year’s line-up includes three-Michelinstarred Christopher Kostow (USA), one of America’s most influential pastry chefs, Johnny Luzzini (New York), street food trailblazer Damian D’Silva (Singapore), Spanish seafood crusader Angel Leon and an exfishmonger turned self-taught chef, Mitch Tonks (UK). As well as this, we have celebrated Australian chefs involved such as Peter Gilmore (Quay, Sydney), Shane Delia (Maha, Melbourne) and Donovan Cooke (The Atlantic, Melbourne).

The popularity of MasterChef Australia has drawn a lot of attention to the Australian food scene recently. But food always been a major part of Australian life, hasn’t it?

Australia’s great love of food stems from the quality of ingredients you can grow and source right here in Australia, and I think it’s fantastic that there is a renewed wide-spread interest in supporting our local producers and farmers, simply by buying fresh local ingredients.

Food is definitely a large part of our culture, and I think our proud immigrant populations have contributed greatly to our collective love of food – it’s definitely a common occurrence to have relaxed dinner parties at home to entertain friends and family. There is no doubt that we turn out chefs, winemakers and producers who can compete with the best in the world, which is also a great source of homegrown inspiration. melbournefoodandwine.com.au

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THE GRID February 13 to 20 Emirates Airline Dubai Jazz Festival Dubai, UAE

THE THREE BIGGEST EVENTS TAKING PLACE IN THE UAE THIS MONTH...

February 21 Rolling Stones Abu Dhabi, UAE

The 12th edition of the Emirates Airline Dubai Jazz Festival will welcome international acts, including Stone Temple Pilots With Chester Bennington, The Wanted, Olly Murs, Colbie Caillat, Jamie Cullum and Santana. While the new Jazz Garden stage will host performances from jazz legends such as former Miles Davis drummer Al Foster. dubaijazzfest.com

February 17 to March 1 Dubai Duty Free Tennis Championships Dubai, UAE

Rock ‘n’ roll greats the Rolling Stones have chosen Abu Dhabi’s du Arena on Yas Island as the opening venue for their 14 On Fire tour this month. rollingstones.com

The Dubai Duty Free Tennis Championship consists of both a men’s and a women’s tournament. The women’s competition will take part from February 17 to February 22, while the men’s tournament will run from February 24 to March 1.

Expect top five players in both tournaments. Last year’s men’s champion was Novak Djokovic. dubaidutyfreetennischampionships.com

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OPEN SKIES / FEBRUARY 2014

the question

WHAT MAKES PEOPLE FUSSY EATERS? Before you reached adulthood, it’s likely that at one time or another you found yourself sitting at a kitchen table with a plate of food in front of you that you would rather sculpt into entertaining shapes than eat. Parents can be cruel, and you were probably told to stay there until you ate whatever it was – most likely a heap of Brussels sprouts, or some other variety of green vegetable.

Children are notoriously fussy eaters, which could be something to do with an evolutionary instinct warning them to avoid unfamiliar foods in case they are dangerous, although a study

by Dr Lucy Cooke of University College London found that 78 per cent of children inherit a fear of eating unknown foods (neophobia) from their parents.

But some adults can be picky about what they imbibe, too.

Why? Well, there could be any number of reasons, and research

is still ongoing. Different cultures enjoy different foods: balut (a boiled fertilised duck egg) is a delicacy in the Philippines, for example, while in Papua New Guinea sago worms are roasted on a spit and in Italy hunters roast song birds and eat them whole. But studies

by Yale psychologist Linda Bartoshuk revealed that some people, “supertasters”, have more taste buds than others, meaning that they taste flavours more intensely. Brussels sprouts might taste delicious to you, but to a supertaster they might be horribly bitter. Or maybe they’re just fussy.

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Open skies / February 2014

TWITTER Q&A

Michelin-starred chef Vineet Bhatia explains himself in 140 characters or less @OpenSkiesMag: Good morning, Vineet. How are you today? Ready to answer a few questions for us? @Vineet_Bhatia: Yes, very much so, my first live tweet in beautiful Dubai. @Vineet_Bhatia: BTW, just flew in on Emirates Airline, and it was great. @OpenSkiesMag: Glad to be part of your first live tweet in Dubai. You’re in the UAE now, but you have several restaurants. How many? @Vineet_Bhatia: Yes, I’m in DXB. We have 8 restaurants and 2 more confirmed openings this year and a dessert cookbook too. @OpenSkiesMag: That’s a lot of restaurants. How often are you in the kitchen at each of them? @Vineet_Bhatia: I try and be in each at least 5-6 times a year, as it’s important to ensure things are in order. DXB is the hub for ME ops. @OpenSkiesMag: You were the first Indian chef to win a star, right? @Vineet_Bhatia: We got our first Michelin star in 2001, then the 2nd one in Rasoi Geneva. @OpenSkiesMag: Describe your style of cooking for us. @Vineet_Bhatia: #indegodubai is special to us, our 1st restaurant in GCC. It’s based on classic India cuisine with modern innovative dishes. @OpenSkiesMag: Where are all your restaurants located? @Vineet_Bhatia: London, Geneva, Mauritius, Mumbai, Doha, Saudi Arabia and here in Dubai. @Vineet_Bhatia: We have an opening in Riyadh in April this year and in August we open up in Bahrain.

Our biggest growth is in the GCC. @Vineet_Bhatia: Rasoi Dessert Cook Book is based on desserts. It should be on the stands in June. It has taken us almost 2 years to make. A real labour of love. @OpenSkiesMag: Looking forward to it, Vineet. That just about does it.

Thank you for your time.

the street

Jægersborggade, Copenhagen

Words by Brittany Shoot and images by Line Klein

This tiny cobblestone street is one of Copenhagen’s smallest, a mere two blocks bookended by public parks in the hip neighbourhood of Nørrebro. At one end, lush, tree-lined Assistens Cemetery is the final resting place of great Danes, including physicist Niels Bohr, writer Hans Christian Andersen and the late reggae-rap artist Natasja Saad (hers is the marker draped with bling).

Though a burial ground, Assistens is also a beautiful park that many couples and families enjoy as a picnic area on warm afternoons.

On the opposite side of Jægersborggade, recently revamped Nørrebroparken is a sprawling green oasis, a large covered pavilion perfect for barbeques, bike paths and skate ramps plastered with dazzling graffiti and a children’s corner.

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Open skies / February 2014

The surrounding parks and two small blocks that make up the entirety of Jægersborggade are quirky enough, but the narrow stretch is home to the city’s most eclectic mix of fascinating boutiques, sweet shops and cosy cafés. You can spend all afternoon browsing the row for artisan homewares and confections before having a fine meal at one of Copenhagen’s premier restaurants.

the street

Retro Nørrebro This cosy non-profit café brews strong coffee and boasts an impressive selection of board games.

Settle into one of their comfy chairs, and support a good cause: Retro is staffed by volunteers and donates proceeds to charities in India and Sierra Leone. Open late every day and offering free Wi-Fi, it’s easy to see why it’s a coveted spot for a coffee date or a hacker gathering (a regular occurrence). Located downtown in its flagship location, sister café Café Retro has all the same creature comforts as Retro.

Jægersborggade 14, Copenhagen Tel: +45 5193 2818 retro-norrebro.dk

Keramiker Inge Vincents Local artisan Inge Vincents’ brightly lit studio shop is the perfect showroom for the handmade, cream-coloured, paper-thin porcelain ceramics she’s dubbed ‘thinware’. Her delicate, decorative but functional art comes in just about every shape and style for seemingly every purpose: bowls, tea light holders, plant vases and pots and mugs and cups. Pop in any day of the week to see her throwing slabs on her wheel and merrily chatting with customers.

Jægersborggade 27, Copenhagen Tel: +45 4070 1750 vincents.dk

Terroiristen This somewhat hidden wine bar and shop focuses on organic and biodynamic wines, especially Italian and Slovenian varietals.

At the end of the row, many revellers miss this subterranean bar in favour of the street’s more visible offerings. Don’t make that mistake. Stop in for

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a nightcap, and chat with the owners who are often on hand to answer questions. Be sure to ask about the Italian cheese and antipasti pairings. Wine tastings are available for parties larger than eight and must be booked in advance.

Jægersborggade 52, Copenhagen Tel: +45 3690 6040 terroiristen.dk

the street

Ruben og Bobby Game collector and stylist Bobby Ågren owns perhaps the world’s only salon-retro toyshop. Stop in to browse (and play with) 1980s action figures, mint-condition trading cards, Gameboys and even full-size vintage pinball machines. Almost everything is for sale or barter, so you can trade your old GI Joes or My Little Ponies for other

Karamelleriet Copenhagen’s only caramel cookery specialises in – you guessed it – handmade soft caramels, toffee clusters and a variety of hard candies.

Co-founders Tina and Charlotte opened the Karamelleriet in 2006, and a few years later a second storefront in their hometown Svaneke on Bornholm, a Danish island in the Baltic Sea. Every morsel is melted

novelties, or even a haircut.

Behind the merchandise storefront is the sink and stylist chair, where retroaficionado Ågren snips hair in decidedly contemporary styles. While he works, grab a nearby controller and try to complete a level or two on an old Sega or Nintendo system video game. A high score earns you bragging rights and 20 per cent off your haircut.

Jægersborggade 6, Copenhagen Tel: +45 3696 6431 rubenogbobby.dk

and formed the old-fashioned way: caramel slow-boiled over an open flame in a copper kettle, every piece portioned and wrapped in cellophane by a 100-year old machine called a batch roller. Did we mention they also make fudge? Choose from liquorice, vanilla or traditional chocolate. Or get one bar of each.

Jægersborggade 36, Copenhagen Tel: +45 7023 7777 karamelleriet.com

Relæ This Michelin-starred restaurant has another ex-Noma chef, Christian Puglisi, at the helm. That’s enough of a reputation for most foodies to clamour for reservations. But even less dedicated diners visit Relæ to sample the ever-changing four-course seasonal menu. Two menus, one vegetarian and one omnivore, each emphasise seasonal vegetables. You can add a wine pairing for roughly the same cost as the meal. Reservations (which are strongly encouraged) can be made up to 60 days in advance. If you didn’t manage to plan ahead, hop across the street to Manfreds and Vin, Relæ’s offshoot tapas and wine bar, which offers a similar seasonal menu.

Jægersborggade 41, Copenhagen Tel: +45 3696 6609 restaurantrelae.dk

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the street

Meyers Bageri Noma, often called the world’s best restaurant, is at the centre of the New Nordic movement, as well as the Copenhagen food scene. But such a grandiose reputation can hardly be contained in a single restaurant, which is why many of Noma’s affiliate restaurants spread its influence all over the Danish capital. Meyers Bakery is one of several related projects from Noma co-founder Claus Meyer.

Pop in for Danish specialities, including loaves of warm crusty bread, brunsviger coffee cake or a kanel snegle – a flat cinnamon roll.

Jægersborggade 9, Copenhagen Tel: +45 2510 1134 clausmeyer.dk

To Trin Ned In this basement shop, the name of which translates as ‘Two Steps Down’, you’ll find vintage Scandinavian housewares and fine second-hand clothing from the 1950s onward. Browse refinished wooden art deco furniture, colourful artwork and antique glass and ceramics from around the world. There’s always a fine selection of women’s accessories, from shift dresses

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and woollen sweaters to classic designer handbags. Opening hours are limited, so check before you pop in. When you do, remember to ask proprietor and trained architect Rikke Munk Harboe about interior design consultations.

Jægersborggade 37, Copenhagen Tel: +45 5059 8566 totrinned.dk

DO YOU TRAVEL TO SEE OR TO DISCOVER?

Isn’t the real excitement of travel about discovering something new? At InterContinental® we use our local knowledge of a destination so you can enjoy what makes it unique. In Kuala Lumpur for example, our Concierge can arrange a trip to the city’s highest vantage point, Menara Kuala Lumpur Tower, where you can view the famous Petronas Towers from a different perspective. Whatever you choose to do, we can help you discover truly authentic experiences that will stay with you long after you come home.

Do you live an InterContinental life?

For more information or to make a reservation, please call 800 897 1465 (KSA) or 800 4642 (UAE) or visit intercontinental.com Bahrain: 800 00 800 | Jordan: 0800 22 666 | Kuwait: 2473 2100 ext. 6233 | Egypt: 0800 44 333 22 Oman: 800 77 999 | Lebanon: (01) 426 801 (Ask for 866 866 7556) | Qatar: 0800 971 234 | South Africa: 0800 999 136

SKYPOD

ORCHESTRA OF SPHERES GENRE: Experimental pop AGE: 36 CITY: Wellington, New Zealand

Daniel Beban plays homemade instruments in experimental band Orchestra Of Spheres.

He shares his favourite tracks

01.

02. 03. 04.

Alexander Tucker The Patron Saint Of Troubled Men

Sun Ra Twin Stars Of Thence

Group Inerane Ikabkaban

Peter Jeffries On An Unknown Beach

Sun Ra’s music went through a lot of phases.

This has a really laid back, funky feel with lots of electric guitars.

This track features on the album Guitars From Agadez – it’s this really trancey, minimal electric blues.

A New Zealand musician, and one of my favourite songwriters. This track evokes this sort of desolate, wintery beach scene.

This is quite acoustic, folky, with mandolins – but really dark and with great melodies.

05. 06. 07.

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Omar Souleyman Hafer Gabrak Bidi

Sabjilar Kogmen

Les Rallizes Denudes People Can Choose

These guys are from southern Siberia. This track is really dark, brooding – played on a long-necked lute and a guy doing chants and throat singing.

They’ve got this 1960s girl band pop bass line, beautiful singing and this incredible fuzz guitar over the top. You get lost in it.

Omar Souleyman is a singer from Syria, but it’s his keyboard player who’s really driving things – it’s insane dancing music, quite harsh and lo-fi.

Drexciya Surface Terrestrial Colonization This has been a big influence. Very interesting bass lines with odd note choices, and melodies that sit over them in an unpredictable way.

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orchestraofspheres.com

the Room

TExT: GARETH REES iMAGES: COVENT GARDEN HOTEL

ROOM 303

COVENT GARDEN HOTEL, LONDON

If you’re visiting London, there are few better locations than Covent Garden. The central square, formerly a vegetable market, is a wellknown tourist attraction, famed for its street performers, but the streets extending out from it contain the famous theatre district, the Royal Opera House and some of the city’s best restaurant, shops and cafés.

Covent Garden Hotel sits on Monmouth Street, just off the famous Seven Dials junction and a short distance from the bars and restaurants of Soho, and it is a beauty. The boutique property has 58 rooms and suites, a gym, a 47-seat screening room and an attractive restaurant, Brasserie Max, where guests staying in Room 303 will be able to enjoy a complementary English breakfast every morning. The two-floor Loft Suite is its crowning glory, boasting 15-feet-high ceilings, a large drawing room, two windows offering a view over the street below, a dining area, several packed bookshelves and a bathroom downstairs, while the upper floor consists of a bedroom, dressing room and en suite bathroom. It’s perfect for entertaining, and there is the option of booking the connecting Deluxe Room. firmdaleshotels.com

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INTERNET SPEED: 100 MB PILLOWS: 4 BEDSIZE: 180cm x 200cm STEAK SANDWICH DELIVERY TIME: 25 minutes COMPLEMENTARY SNACKS: Bottled water, fruit bowl TOILETRY BRAND: Miller Harris EXTRAS: English breakfast, in-suite check-in, pressing upon arrival, packing service, fresh flowers, use of iPad and MacBook, complementary Wi-Fi, international newspapers, complementary car parking, champagne upon arrival, Miller Harris gift box TV channels: 39 VIEW: 3/5 RATE: US$2,800

Bold_HPv_os PRINT.pdf

THREE NEW HOTEL OPENINGS

ACE HOTEL DOWNTOWN LOS ANGELES Los Angeles, USA

Portland’s Ace Hotel group’s portfolio of boutique hotels extends from its Oregon base to New York, Palm Springs, London, Seattle, Panama and, now, Los Angeles. The 182-room Ace Hotel Downtown Los Angeles has opened in the historic 12-storey United Artists building in Downtown LA. Ace has also renovated the adjacent theatre, which will host regular concerts, starting with a performance from Spiritualized on February 14. acehotel.com/losangeles

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THE RITZCARLTON, KYOTO Kyoto, Japan

The Ritz-Carlton, Kyoto, which opens its doors this month, sits on the Kamogawa River with views of the Higashiyama mountains. The property has 134-rooms and suites, two restaurants – La Locanda, serving Italian, and Mizuki, serving sushi – and a spa. ritzcarlton.com

KINZIE HOTEL Chicago, USA

The building in Chicago’s River North neighbourhood formerly housing the Amalfi Hotel will reopen this month as the Kinzie Hotel, a new 210-room property named after and inspired by one of the city’s original settlers, businessman John Kinzie. kinziehotel.com

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12:00 PM

consume albums

FIlms

IN THE SILENCE Asgeir

Electro-folk The English language translation of the Icelandic singer songwriter’s 2013 debut album, Dyrd I dauoathogn – the biggest-selling debut album ever in Iceland by a homegrown artist.

SO LONG, SEE YOU TOMORROW Bombay Bicycle Club

Indie British indie band Bombay Bicycle Club release their fourth album, and their first since 2011’s A Different Kind Of Fix. The first single from the album, Carry Me, was released late last year.

PRESENT TENSE Wild Beasts

Indie The long-awaited fourth album from the Mercury Prize-nominated Wild Beasts.

THE MONUMENT’S MEN George Clooney

action A group of civilians tasked by President Roosevelt with venturing behind enemy lines to rescue artworks from Germany as the Third Reich crumbles at the end of World War II. George Clooney’s latest actor-director effort also stars Matt Damon, Cate Blanchett, Bill Murray, John Goodman and Jean Dujardin.

A FANTASTIC FEAR OF EVERYTHING Crispian Mills, Chris Hopewell

THE LEGO MOVIE Phil Lord, Christopher Miller

simon Pegg stars as an author who develops an irrational fear of being murdered. The film is based on Withnail And I writer and director bruce Robinson’s novella, Paranoia In The Laundrette.

In this computer-animated comedy featuring the popular children’s figurines, Emmet (Chris Pratt) enlists the help of Vitruvius the wizard (morgan Freeman) to defeat Will Ferrell’s evil lord business and save the lego universe.

Comedy

animation

books

ANDREW’S BRAIN EL Doctorow

Fiction In National Book Award winner E L Doctorow’s latest novel protagonist Andrew as recounts his turbulent life story to an unnamed acquaintance he addresses simply as Doc.

A SHORT GUIDE TO A LONG LIFE Dr David B Agus

self Help An illustrated guide to healthy living, which aims to answer all of the complicated questions about our daily habits once and for all.

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100 CONTEMPORARY ARCHITECTS Philip Jodidio

architecture In this hefty twovolume tome art historian Philip Jodidio profiles the 100 architects shaping our world today, from big names such as Oscar Niemeyer to future stars.

consume THE CINEMA

Eden Theatre

film history / Eden Theatre is the oldest cinema in the world, where the first ever motion picture was screened

Eden Theatre has just been restored. How did you come to be involved in the restoration project?

I’m a digital strategy specialist. The Eden des Lumières Association contacted me to head up the multimedia and digital side of things.

What condition was the theatre in when you first saw it?

Really bad. The screening room was a shambles, and the only part still useable was the south aisle on the ground floor.

You work closely with Guy Guistini. What are your roles and how do you complement each other?

Guy is chairman of Eden des Lumières and the driving force behind the project. His vision was to make Eden a hub linked to other cultural initiatives, local heritage and the economy of the region, as well as a showcase for cutting-edge technology. That’s where I came in.

What’s been the most demanding aspect?

Juggling the expectations of all the various institutions, associations and businesses involved was a real challenge, but incredibly rewarding.

How key was Marseille European Capital of Culture 2013?

No doubt it was the catalyst, an amazing opportunity to showcase Eden, and of course raise the necessary finance.

How did locals react to the re-opening?

Older citizens really couldn’t believe it was happening after a 30-year battle. When we opened the doors it was truly emotional.

Have volunteers been involved and, if so, in what way?

Volunteers and local associations were key. We owe them a huge debt of gratitude and want to give back to the community as much as possible.

What new initiatives are now in place, and how do you see them developing?

Eden Theatre is universally iconic, the oldest cinema in the world. Louis and Auguste Lumière used La Ciotat as an open-air laboratory when making their films. L’Arrivée d’un train en gare de la Ciotat (Arrival Of The Train At La Ciotat), screened at Eden in 1896, was the first ever motion picture. We’re passionate about encouraging future innovation with training and creative facilities such as our low-cost film studio.

Tell me about the opening night. How does it feel to see such a long imagined dream become reality?

Stressful. Lots going on behind the scenes, but what a success.

Why should visitors, both French and foreign, come and see this cinema?

Eden is history waiting to be discovered, the birthplace of cinema, and in a fantastic location by the Mediterranean.

Finally, what’s the essence of the Eden Theatre?

Film will keep on adapting, but Eden is where the incredible journey first began.

Edentheatre.org

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ImAGEs: EDEN THEATRE

La Ciotat, Côte d’Azur, France Questions: Andrew Birbeck / Answers: Co-director of Eden Theatre, Yann Ravet Godfroy

SweeT Connection From the masters of confectionary, Turkey sweetens the world with her assortment of flavours.

We are at Gulfood 2014 Fair in A8-24

BLD

Doha

IMAgEs: IDAM

Romain Meder, executive chef at IDAM, Alain Ducasse’s first restaurant in the Middle East, shares his favourite places to eat in the Qatari capital

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BREAKFAST

LUNCH

DINNER

Ric’s Kountry Kitchen is an American southern-style, family restaurant. It is casual, friendly and popular among Americans, other expats and locals. It’s the place to go if you like to overindulge. I always order the giant blueberry pancake with a hint of maple syrup – just for added flavour. It is breakfast heaven. Last time I visited, I had two scrambled eggs – just how I like them – bacon and home fries. They also have a delicious iced tea, which I order without sugar. Come as you are and enjoy the food. That’s what it is all about.

Opal by Gordon Ramsay is a modern bistro serving western-inspired classics. It offers everything that defines the Gordon Ramsay experience, but in a relaxed and social dining environment. I go there for the generous and delicious cuisine. I sit outside on the lovely, shaded terrace with its beautiful sea view. I always order a four-cheese pizza to share. The hammour carpaccio is one of the best I have tasted. For dessert, I usually order the traditional Eton mess, but without meringue, as I do not like sugar. There is no better place to go for an enjoyable lunch, and it’s great for a spot for people watching.

Hakkasan is an elegant retreat.

Set in the gardens of the St Regis Hotel, it is the perfect escape from the rush of the city. The welcome is warm, and the extraordinary service complements the delicious food. I usually order four to five dishes to share in a spirit of generosity that is dear to me. I love to have the jasmine tea-smoked wagyu beef ribs. For a fresh and light dish, order the crispy duck salad with pomelo, pine nut and shallot, and enjoy the journey of aromas, fruitiness, freshness and acidity. This place is fantastic.

Ric’s Kountry Kitchen Sana Complex, Ras Abu Abboud Street, Doha Tel: +974 4443 7846 ricskountrykitchendoha.com

Opal by Gordon Ramsay The St Regis Doha, Al Gassar Resort, West Bay, Doha Tel: +974 4446 0105 opalbygordonramsaydoha.com

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Hakkasan The St. Regis Doha, Al Gassar Resort, West Bay, Doha Tel: +974 4446 0170 hakkasan.com/doha

MAPPED SEDAWATTA

Setapak Jaya

16

Pulapol

Kementah

Titiwangsa

Bukit Tunku

Kampung Baru

09 10 Taman Duta

04

05 02

08

01

12 11

07 Bukit Bintang

City Centre

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Kuala Lumpur 06 06

03

14

15

Bukit Petaling

Kuala Lumpur Restaurants:

Bars:

Galleries:

1) Villa Samadhi (3.157421 ,One 101.726779) of the

5) Cantaloupe at Troika Sky Dining

9) OneSixFive at the InterContinental

13) Islamic Arts Museum

4) The Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur (3.154185 , 101.706324)

8) Cilantro (3.156831 , 101.721983)

Hotels:

(3.142916 , 101.689475) , 101.718228) world’s fastest (3.157999 growing cities, Kuala Lumpur is (3.159552 settling, 101.711812) into its position as a major Asian metropolis.

Crowned by the iconic double spires of the Petronas Twin Towers, and with plenty 14) National Museum of Malaysia 10) Marini’s on 57 6) Noble Mansion 2) Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur (3.138096 , 101.711372)With a diverse bounty 101.638201) (3.155899 ,going 101.711833) on closer to ground (3.109636, level, KL offers an eclectic array(3.156473 of attractions. of, 101.686728) multinational street food, architectural sites and world-class shopping, this vibrant global hotspot 15) Wei Ling Gallery 11) Circus 7) Bijan 3) The Majestic Hotel Kuala Lumpur (3.135160 , 101.692135) (3.149815 , 101.712542) (3.148379 , 101.706389) (3.139263 ,should 101.692446) be on every Asian itinerary.

HOTELS

01. Villa Samadhi 02. Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur 03. The Majestic Hotel Kuala Lumpur 04. The Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur

12) SkyBar (3.153875 , 101.714671)

16) National Visual Arts Gallery (3.177212 , 101.681905)

RESTAURANTS

BARS

GALLERIES

05. Cantaloupe At Troika Sky Dining 06. Noble Mansion 07. Bijan 08. Cilantro

09.OneSixFive At The InterContinental 10. Marini’s On 57 11. Circus 12. SkyBar

13. Islamic Arts Museum 14.Malaysian National Museum 15.Wei Ling Gallery 16. National Visual Arts Gallery

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HOteLs 01 Villa samadhi Though it’s located in Kuala Lumpur’s pretty embassy district, Villa Samadhi feels like a jungle retreat. Looking on to a lagoon-like pool and offering rainwater showers and private, open-air Jacuzzis, this hotel settles its guests into serene tropical pace. villasamadhi.com.my 02 mandarin oriental Kuala lumpur With an infinity pool, on-site spa and incredible views of the Petronas Towers, the Mandarin Oriental caters to those looking for the high life. The many onsite dining offerings range from a luxury sushi bar to a swanky late-night lounge. mandarinoriental.com 03 the majestic Hotel Kuala lumpur Once the grande dame of mid-century KL, The Majestic Hotel was closed to guests for decades before being completely refurbished last year. Both a national heritage site and a highend escape, it evokes a lavish, bygone era in Malaysian history. www.majestickl.com 04 the shangri-la Kuala lumpur One of the top offerings in KL’s luxury hotel scene, the Shangri-La has refined the art of pampering.

Stop by the Chi spa for a holistic massage before heading to Lafite restaurant for accomplished French haute cuisine. www.shangri-la.com

modern metropolis / Kuala Lumpur’s skyline is dominated by the Petronas Twin Towers

restaurants 05 Cantaloupe At troika sky dining On the 24th floor of the Troika, Cantaloupe is overseen by top chef Christian Bauer. His influence has guided this new entry straight to the top of KL’s dining scene; dishes such as noisette butter-poached lobster showcase his considerable culinary skill. troikaskydining.com 06 noble mansion Within opulent settings, Noble Mansion has quietly updated and modernised the classic Chinese banquet. Dishes like roast duck with liver sausage

01

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and pan-fried abalone are at once traditional and utterly decadent. orientalrestaurants.com.my 07 Bijan Bijan has long been considered the city’s best Malay restaurant.

Showcasing the country’s incredible gastronomic diversity, the restaurant serves up dishes like ayam goreng sambal in a setting that’s several notches up from chaotic hawker centre. bijanrestaurant.com 08 Cilantro Marrying the elegance of French cooking with the delicacy of Japanese cuisine, Cilantro is led by accomplished young chef Takashi Kimura. Plates such as maguro tenmi tartare with asparagus and egg mollet show off the best of both culinary traditions. cilantrokl.com

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GaLLErIEs 13 Islamic Arts Museum Islam is Malaysia’s majority religion, and this museum highlights the incredible richness of its artistic tradition. Exhibits span from calligraphy and ancient coins to jewellery and armour. iamm.org.my

bars 09 OneSixFive At The InterContinental For fine cocktails in KL, locals flock to the recently refurbished OneSixFive At The InterContinental. Those after unfussy, well-mixed classics sip on Negronis to a soundtrack of live jazz. intercontinental-kl.com.my 10 Marini’s On 57 The highest bar in KL, and close enough to rub shoulders with the Petronas Towers, Marini’s On 57 offers predictably impressive views. Award-winning bartender Rizal Junior oversees the drinks programme, ensuring that the cocktails are just as exceptional. marinis57.com 11 Circus More than just a name, Circus is the theme behind this hyped spot. Its colourful décor and fuchsia-hued lights lend a playful ambiance to the venue’s daytime dining and nighttime pursuits (classy cocktails and a line-up of international DJs). circus.com.my

12

SkyBar The classic SkyBar has long been a destination for locals and visitors seeking out some of the city’s top views. Out-oftowners would do well to stop by for a drink in the open-air lounge. skybar.com.my

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14 Malaysian National Museum The Malaysian National Museum is home to four main galleries that showcase the country’s long and varied history. Spanning from the Palaeolithic period up to the modern day, its exhibits offer an engaging portrait of the nation and its people. muziumnegara.gov.my 15 Wei Ling Gallery For a glimpse into Malaysia’s flourishing contemporary arts scene, the Wei Ling Gallery should be at the top of any art lover’s list. The expansive, threestorey exhibition space showcases sculptures, paintings, and other works by local artists. weiling-gallery.com 16 National Visual Arts Gallery Housed within a pyramidal structure, the National Visual Arts Gallery highlights the work of contemporary artists via a series of temporary exhibitions. Its 4,000 exhibit-strong permanent collection, meanwhile, showcases batik works and other traditional Malaysian pieces. artgallery.gov.my

Words:hG2.com imaGes: corbis

STREET FOOD / a family enjoys a feast in Kuala Lumpur’s chinatown. The city is famed for its street fare

LOCAL KNOwLEDGE

Special Ostadi

Mohammed Ali Ansari arrived in Dubai in the 1950s, opening Special Ostadi in Bur Dubai in 1978. As Dubai has changed, he has continued to run his family business exactly as he always has

S

tepping through the inconspicuous door during a busy lunch or dinner service at Special Ostadi restaurant on the bustling Al Musallah Road, Bur Dubai, in the old part of the city, your senses will be overwhelmed by the aroma of

Words by Poonam Ganglani / Images by REM

charred lamb kebabs wafting from the kitchen, the unexpected sound of birds tweeting in their cages and the conversation of loyal patrons.

There are shells of old mobile phones hanging on the walls, faded newspaper clippings, thousands of photographs and countless bank notes from across the globe

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displayed below the glass table tops. This charming family-run restaurant is not just somewhere to eat a good dinner, it is a museum dedicated to proudly documenting Dubai’s recent history.

Among the treasures pinned to the wall, there’s an old newspaper article about Sheikh Rashid

LOCAL KNOwLEDGE

history lesson / The news clippings and objects adorning the walls of Special Ostadi are a record of Dubai’s recent history

Bin Saeed Al Maktoum, Dubai’s first ruler, unveiling his master plan for the city that became the foundations for its spectacular growth, as well as a photograph of a teenage Sheikh Mohammed, Dubai’s present ruler, gazing thoughtfully out of a car window.

Owner Mohammed Ali Ansari, who opened Special Ostadi 35

years ago, sits at the cashier’s desk at the entrance ready to begin the morning’s routine. At 82 he is dynamic and attentive, seeing to the day-to-day operations of the restaurant while also welcoming customers with a warm smile and a nod of the head. With the help of his son, Abbas, he communicates in part Hindi, part Farsi and part English.

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“I was nine years old when I sailed here from Gerash, a small village in Iran,” he says. “It was the time of the Second World War. There was no food in the village then, so I decided to follow my father to Dubai, where he had set up a grocery.”

Ansari sailed to Dubai on a vessel propelled only by the force of the wind. “It took us four days

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S N O I T SOLU

LOCAL KNOwLEDGE customers come here because they know they will get good food that has maintained a consistent quality over the years to reach the island of Abu Musa in the Arabian Gulf, from which we could see Dubai at a distance,” he says.

Ansari finally reached his new promised land after more than seven days at sea. “It was a different time. There weren’t even any passport and customs regulations then,” he recalls.

“There was no electricity, no water and no roads when I arrived here.

We would have to collect water from wells in nearby towns. Life was simple and communal then.”

Ansari explains how every evening the community would gather at Sheikh Saeed’s majlis, a common memory of many people residing in Dubai during the 1950s.

“It was a desert-town and people would come from other towns to sell green vegetables. Every day only a single lamb would be slaughtered for the entire community.”

“I would go around the city to sell things from my father’s grocery and tandoor shop, carrying roti on my head, and gas and kerosene upon my shoulders. There were no machines at the time, so I would have to go around to the town’s chicken and cow owners to ask if their animals had yielded any produce that day, then take individual orders for eggs and milk.”

Ansari went on to become a trader, importing and selling goods from around the world, until the Iranian Revolution intervened in the late 1970s, causing a drastic fall in the value of currency.

“The value of the Iranian toman dropped from two against a dirham

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to around eight,” he says. “It was a hard hit since I was trading in that currency, and that’s when I bought Special Ostadi, in 1978. It became our new stronghold.”

Since then, the restaurant has been the nucleus of activity for Ansari and three of his four sons, who help him to run the business.

“I have a simple motto: eat simple, but eat always,” says Ansari. “Each of us has only one stomach to fill, but that should be done well and with care.”

The sign on the restaurant door proudly reads, ‘One branch since 1978.’ Ansari has never expanded yet he has managed to survive as the city has grown into a major metropolis.

“Customers come here because they know they will get good food that has maintained a consistent quality over the years,” he explains.

“We’ve had offers from investors to expand, but we’ve chosen to Personal touch / The walls of Special Ostadi are covered in photographs of its many loyal customers

LOCAL KNOwLEDGE

FAMILY MAN / Mohammed Ali Ansari runs Special Ostadi with his sons and says that he will pass the family business on to them

maintain just this single branch together as a family. We work within our means, but we work hard and we keep our business clean. It’s a simple formula.”

Kabab khas and sultani, both barbequed meat dishes, are among the favourites on the menu.

“People of different nationalities whose offices are close by usually drop in for lunch, and for dinner we get mostly local Emirati customers,” explains Ansari. “It is my biggest achievement to serve my customers well, and I will continue to run the restaurant with my sons for as long as I have the strength. After that, I leave it entirely up to my sons to take over.”

It is evident from the surrounding walls that the restaurant has served to strengthen the bonds between father and

sons in a special way that extends beyond the business. Each of them has distinct interests and they have together transformed the place into a creative outlet of sorts, while at the same time forging a special relationship with customers.

The most prominent example of this is the countless bank notes encased within the tables dating back decades. This is Ansari’s pet project, and he has collected more than 2,000 notes over the years. “Many of these are signed by customers from all over the world,

it is evident from the surrounding walls that the restaurant has served to strengthen the bonds between father and sons 62

Open skies / February 2014

who have kindly contributed to my collection,” he says.

Elsewhere there are photographs of one of his sons, a bodybuilder, posing for a competition. And then there are the two caged birds, providing diners with a cheery background score.

“They are called Turha and Hasoon and are from the mountainous regions in Iran,” Ansari explains.

“Those belong to my son, too, he is very fond of them.”

There are also photographs of the Ansari family posing with numerous customers. Some of them are celebrities, but most just people who love the food and the warm welcome they receive at Special Ostadi.

“What I miss most about the city I first knew is the connection that existed between people,” says Ansari. “The quality of that connection is lost in today’s times.”

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James Burke The scientist who knows what the world is going to look like in 2040

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OUR MAN IN: Architect and interior designer Zeynep Fadillioglu on her life in Istanbul ............................74 AMeRIcA Meets the beAtles: Images from the Fab Four’s first trip to the USA in 1964.........................................80

T H I S M A N I S J A M E S B U R K E H E I S A S C I E N T I S T. W A Y B A C K I N T H E 1 9 7 0 S H E P R E D I C T E D T H E R I S E O F T H E P E R S O N A L C O M P U T E R. N O W H E H A S A V I S I O N F O R W H A T T H E W O R L D W I L L L O O K L I K E I N 2 0 5 4

I

t is already dark on a cold autumn afternoon.

The lights from street lamps and passing traffic reflect off the rain-drenched streets. People file out of Barnes Bridge Station, scurrying home from work. Barnes is 9km southwest of London, a historical district tucked in a cul-de-sac of the river Thames. The Terrace is a strip of 18th century terraces looking out over the river as it meanders its way south. It is here that I am meeting James Burke, a pre-eminent scientific thinker and television presenter whose career spans almost 50 years.

In the lead up to our meeting no email was left unanswered. His detailed directions covered everything, right down to the old 1980s beige BMW that sits in front of his house. Punctuality is very important to Burke.

There is still 10 minutes before our meeting, but I decide to knock anyway. He promptly answers through the closed door, “You’re early, how did you know I’d be in?”

He is wearing a grey woollen jumper with his shirt collar neatly tucked out. On the side table near the door is a copy of New Scientist magazine, still in its plastic wrapper. “That’s where I get all my ideas from,” Burke jokes.

Now 76, Burke is full of life; he speaks with the speed of an auctioneer and is as captivating and animated as a tribal storyteller. He has just come back from a public speaking engagement in the US, and tomorrow he will fly to the south of France where he has a second home near Nice.

We walk up an old wooden staircase, to the dining room. The house is traditionally furnished, with parquet floors and walls adorned with numerous paintings. “This one,” he says, pointing to a painterly winter scene of a fox in the snow, “is covering a hole in the wall.” One minute with Burke and you realise that a dry humorous wit and self-deprecation are trusted conversational devices. He prepares a cup of tea and puts the cup directly on the ornate coffee table; he is not the sort to bother with coasters.

International audiences grew up with Burke’s sharp delivery and imaginative mind. He shot to fame when the BBC appointed him lead anchor for their coverage of the 1969 Apollo 11 moon landing. In 1978 he went on to host his own series, Connections, an innovative programme that explored the origins of our modern world by showing how everything was connected to everything else. He is also a best-selling author, currently working on his 13th book, and a keynote speaker on technology and social change to audiences at institutions such as NASA, IBM and Microsoft.

The Washington Post has called him “one of the most intriguing minds in the Western world”. When asked about the approbation, he shrugged it off in typical joking fashion, “I think they were intrigued by my general connectivist approach, or perhaps they were just easily impressed.”

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In 1969, as NASA’s Apollo mission approached the hoax, but Burke is unconvinced. At moon, Burke was on every TV in the UK. “The BBC went least he thinks he’s unconvinced. “I into the moon landing thing a bit slowly,” Burke recalls, remember looking up at the sky and shifting back on his couch. “I’m not sure they thought it thinking, ‘No, I don’t believe this, was really going to happen.” they’re not really up there, it’s all Nevertheless, Burke was in front of an entire popu- video.’ Did they really go?” He pauses lation, commenting on one of the for effect. “Yes, most significant events of the 20th they went, you The century. “All I really cared about was can tell from the doing my job, I wasn’t thinking, ‘This W a s h i n g T o n signal, how long is history,’” he announces, raising his took. You can’t P o s T c a l l e d itavoid voice and forming a fist to imitate a that; the loud speaker. “You think, ‘What am I h i m “ o n e o f signal took so going to say next?’ or ‘Where the hell many seconds.

The mosT is that pointer?’ But mainly it was just If it was coming making sure you kept your mouth from Pheonix it inTriguing shut, because the air-to-ground was wouldn’t have minds in open all the time, and the worst thing taken that long.” in the world was to talk when the as- T h e W e s T e r n He raises his tronauts were talking, the audience voice for emWorld” would really get annoyed.” phasis, “Well I “Here in the UK it was lunacy, think they went. the country went crazy. The nation stayed up all night, I don’t care, it made my career.” because it landed in the middle of the night here. Taxi Burke can’t hide his grin. drivers were talking about ‘mid-course corrections’ and Born in Londonderry, Northern I’d think, ‘What! You’re not supposed to know that.’”

Ireland, in 1936, his family moved For more than 40 years there have been moon land- to England after the war in search ing conspiracy theorists claiming that NASA staged a of work. He went to Jesus College,

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Model presenter / Burke was lead anchor for the BBC’s coverage of the Apollo 11 moon landing in 1969. Lifesize models of the manned sections of the spacecraft (left) were built for the show spACe Men / Burke chats with astronomer Patrick Moore at the Kennedy Space Center in Florida in 1973 (above)

Oxford, between 1957 and 1961, where he earned an MA in Medieval English. In 1962 he moved to Italy, where he worked as a lecturer and was involved in a threeyear project creating an English-Italian dictionary. He met his wife-to-be, a young woman from New Zealand teaching at an international school named Madeline, at a party in Rome. The couple moved back to England in 1966, where they married and Burke began working on a popular BBC magazine-style gadget programme called Tomorrow’s World.

Burke’s television career was a big success. His science programmes sold internationally and, aside from the BBC, he worked regularly with Discovery Channel and PBS (Public Broadcasting Service) in America.

In 1973 Radio Times asked Burke to predict what the future would hold for us in 20 years. It has taken something closer to 40 years for Burke’s predictions to come true, but most of them have, including the importance of the personal computer.

“In 1973 computers filled an entire floor of a building,” he says. “The predominant view at the time was

Burke’s television career was a Big success

Nineteen Eighty-Four, George Orwell, Big Brother, all of that stuff. I didn’t see it that way. I didn’t know that the PC was coming [exactly], nobody did – I don’t even think Steve Jobs knew. Now we have something in our lap that could land 10 Apollos, do your tax returns and then go into sleep mode.”

“It seemed obvious that certain things were going to happen; a computer makes you do things faster than you would do normally, so the chance is that it’s going to accelerate the process by which we solve all our problems – in medicine, in education – so that’s the approach I took. Some of it was right, most of it was right. I was horrendously wrong in one aspect. I said there would be something like 300,000 computers, and there were something like 146 million. So, oops. Slightly wrong. But then nobody foresaw the speed with which it would happen. Because even then it was kind of NSA (National Security Agency) stuff – white coats, silent rooms, air conditioning and people muttering.”

Burke foresaw a more relaxed view of privacy – that we would need to give more information in order to benefit from the advances in technology.

“I think at the time a fuss was made. They said, ‘He thinks we’re going to have no privacy,’” he recalls. “I didn’t mean that at all. I meant that we would give a certain amount of data freely in order to run the place better, have a better life, be healthier, be educated.”

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Techniques are now ava i l a b l e To m a n i pu l aT e s i n g l e aTo m s. Yo u ca n reach down and pick up a s i n g l e aTo m a n d pu T iT wiTh anoTher single aTo m a n d T h e n a n oT h e r s i n g l e aTo m a n d b i n g o !

You’ve made a molecule

“It’s difficult to realise that back then people did not give information about themselves, they weren’t asked to give information. When you went to the bank you would show a letter with your name on it, which was proof that you were who you say. I mean, hello! No photographic ID. A driver’s licence was a little red book with scribble in it, no picture. People took your word for it. That whole data-driven society was really what I was going on about. And most of it came true.”

Since the 1970s, Burke’s agent, Royce Carlton, has played a major role in his longevity, and 2009 that Madeline had cancer. She died that same year. he has become an important figure in educating insti- “Deeply distressed, I went into a cave for four years and tutions on alternative views of change and technology. never came out,” says Burke. “I stayed in France and reAs Burke says, “Together almost 30 years, it’s a marriage searched my next book, because it was something to do. made in heaven.”

But I didn’t go out and see anybody. I think maybe I saw The strangest meeting Carlton has ever arranged for four or five people in four years. Bad things happen to Burke was just last year, with a mysterious party in the everybody. But it’s the single most devastating thing that USA. Carlton refused to tell him who he was meeting can happen to anyone.” with, sparking his curiosity. So Burke boarded a flight to In September last year Burke came out of his cave. He Maryland, where he was met at the airport by a driver, also was approached by the BBC to once again do a segment sworn to secrecy, who drove him to a cottage in the woods. on what the future holds for us in another 40 years. When “We are out the front of this ordinary looking cot- I ask if he would share his new predictions in detail Burke tage,” recalls Burke. “And I said, ‘Are you coming?’ and he looked down at the floor and said, “This will take a mosays, ‘I can’t go in.’ So I go in alone and these two really ment.” There is silence for the first time. Then he looks up nice people say, ‘Hello, welcome to the NSA.’ and says seriously, “I think there are three things coming, Burke, shocked, responded with an obscenity. “Every- and it may take all of the 40 years.” body says that, they say.” Burke bursts into laughter.

“One is nanotechnology,” he begins. “Nanotechnology The National Security Agency policy doesn’t permit is already happening in more than 14,000 laboratories Burke to speak about the details of his mysterious visit. around the UK. Nanotechnology deals with materials at “I’m not allowed to put it on my CV. I’m not allowed to the nanometric level, a nanometre is 1/70,000 the width say the name of anyone I met. I’m only allowed to tell of a human hair. So it’s tiny. Techniques are now availyou that I went there. And they said, ‘We’re serious able to manipulate single atoms. You can reach down and about this,’ so that’s all I’m going pick up a single atom and put it to tell you. But it was the high with another single atom and then point of my career.” another single atom and bingo!

If working with the NSA was You’ve made a molecule. Want to a highlight, the lowest moment make water? You get one atom of in Burke’s life came just five years oxygen and two atoms of hydrogen ago. Seven years earlier, in 2002, and you get water. They are able to Burke had stopped working to do that now.” spend more time with his wife.

Burke continues in the same “My wife, Madeline, who lived in excited manner, explaining that France, said, ‘Wouldn’t it be nice the ability to create our own moif we actually lived together? After lecules will have a positive effect all we’re supposed to be married.’” on the environment, decreasing Burke would spend months at a our reliance on raw materials. time either travelling on film trips “For example, there is already or editing in London. “I’d been doa process by which you can put one ing this for years and years, and she end of a tube into the filthiest wawas right, it was her turn. We only ter you could possibly think of and got seven years, so just as well.” using a nanoscale filter you can BOOKWORM / Burke relaxes with a pile of Any future plans the couple pump the dirty water through and books in his garden in Barnes, London, in the 1980s had were shattered by the news in you can drink the water coming

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out of the other side immediately. It is the purest water you’ll ever drink. Think about what that’s going to do for the third world.”

Burke believes that these developments are going to radically change the way we live over the next 40 years.

“Everybody’s going on and on about starvation, no water, pollution and the ozone layer, it will all be gone.

We’ll mend the Earth,” he says. “The second thing nanotechnology is going to make possible is computers the size of a dust mote, and that’s going to happen in 10 to 15 years. They’ve already got one in a lab that you need a microscope to look at – it’s so small.”

“There will be trillions and trillions of these embedded absolutely everywhere. Every object – maybe even your head – will have these things attached and they will create a gigantic network that makes the internet look like, ‘We’ll chip this out of stone guys let’s call it the internet.’ The motes, as they will become known, will run the world.”

“A network of motes would be able to handle everything, the whole of human knowledge in about 0.00001 per cent of the capacity of the network. If anything needs fixing, they’ll fix it. If anything needs inventing, they’ll invent it.”

In Burke’s future we will essentially be able to perform a real life Google search. If you have lost your car, as long as it has a mote connected to it, your search would reveal its whereabouts. All of our consumer patterns, life choices and daily habits will be recorded as data.

The motes will therefore know what we need, when we need it and how to improve our lives effectively.

“The third big thing is a real killer,” Burke continues. “A nanofabricator. You’ll have one of these in your house, your shed, back garden, I don’t know where you’ll put it. It will make anything you want and you’ll only need to shove in dirt, air and water and a little bit of acetylene gas, which contains a lot of carbon, because almost everything contains carbon.”

“Everyone on the planet will have one. And you don’t [physically] send it anywhere, you [send] instruction software and at the other end it makes itself. So [you could be] at Ayers Rock or Ouagadougou, anywhere. They are going to destroy absolutely everything, I mean destroy in the sense that society as we know it, every single institution will be obsolete.”

In burke’s future w e w I l l e s s e n t I a l ly be able to perform a real lIfe google search

Burke sees the role of governments throughout history as handling scarcity, sharing out what resources there are, because there isn’t enough to go around.

“Scarcity rules and that’s why we have values,” he says. “The value system is all about scarcity. Valuables are scarce – PhDs, diamonds, good looks, wealth, a yacht, it’s all to do with scarcity – and the fabricator will cause totally sustainable abundance.”

“So that’s what I think is coming, abundance. And it’s very scary, because we’ve spent 40,000 years caring only about scarcity. We have no idea how to handle abundance.”

“How will we interact with each other? This is very interesting. First of all, I think if you want to go out to dinner with your grandmother you go out holographically. A hologram of her arrives and sits at your table, and unless you put your arm through her she is real. The interesting thing is, is she somewhere else? Is she having dinner with nine other people, because it’s just as easy? It’s going to be a very interesting problem to have dinner with nine people at once.”

“You sit in your house and you think, ‘The Globe Theatre. Why not?’ Your house becomes the Globe Theatre, and you see the greatest Shakespeare play you’ve ever seen, all done by holograms.”

Burke also sees an end to private property and a reversal of the trend for city living.

“We will probably opt for small communities rather than living alone and the likelihood is that we will probably head back to where we were before the industrial revolution. Not packed like sardines in stinking cities.

We will spread out,” he says. “Private property, why would it be private? Private property is only there to make you money, and if there is no money, why do you need private property?”

“I can imagine Earth like a giant, untouched jungle dotted with gardens, which people would tend for the good of their souls, not because they need anything to eat.”

Burke’s world is free from the mundane daily needs of survival, but is it naïve to view the future with such optimism when we are surrounded by so many negative views of the future, especially in the media?

“Never mind telling me what’s wrong, tell me how to solve it,” demands Burke. “I don’t see why one has to be pessimistic, there’s no value in pessimisms. It’s retrogressive. It says stop. Life doesn’t stop. You have to handle what’s going on whether you like it or not, life will roll over you if you don’t.”

Burke sits back confidently in his chair, basking in the silence. His certainty is infectious. Looking around the room, I notice the wintery scene of the fox in the stairwell. Burke’s vision paints a utopian picture that may not simply be covering over a hole in the wall. He has laid out a blueprint that would allow us to redesign the entire structure of the planet and, if he’s right, we won’t have to wait too long for his predictions to come true.

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Open skies / February 2014

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ZEYENEP FADILLIOGLU Architect/interior designer, 58

OUR wOMAN IN…

Istanbul

Best-known for designing Istanbul’s Şakirin Mosque, becoming the first woman to design a mosque, architect and interior designer Zeynep Fadillioglu’s ZF Design is responsible for more than 450 projects around the world. She loves the energy and chaos of her home city, Istanbul

I

was born and raised here, in Yali on the Bosphorus.

My grandfather had a house on the waterfront that had been designed by the Balyan family who built many of our palaces, like the Dolmabahçe and Beylerbeyi. So from an early age I must have appreciated architecture, but for me Istanbul is one of the world’s most beautiful cities. I like its chaos. There are many disturbing issues such as bad roads, too much immigration and out of control changes. And so much of the old Ottoman Turkey is being destroyed. But then on the other hand there is always the amazing Bosphorus. And we have incredible art and contemporary design now among the young generation. The energy of Istanbul is amazing.

I was educated at the English High School in Istanbul, and then I went to Sussex University to study computer science, but in my second year I went to the Courtauld Institute. London was much more exciting for me. I enjoyed the freedom and liberty away from family and wanted to extend my stay in London, so my father chose a school of design for me.

He said, “You need an art polish,” and so I went to the Inchbald in Eaton Gate, which was the first interior design school in Europe.

This changed my life completely. I came to understand about architecture and history, looking at Hampton Court and the National Gallery and the works of Sir Christopher Wren. At the Inchbald I learned how to look at buildings, how to read the period of a painting – it affected all aspects of my life. Nevertheless I still worked in computers at first.

Then when I got married my husband ran clubs and restaurants in Istanbul, and I had to quit because we were not seeing each other – of the two of us I was making less money. For ten years I worked in his business, and sometimes I would be design manager to someone like Nigel Coates. My husband was commissioning important architects, but whenever there was not enough money he would commission me. In the end I designed more than 20 places for my husband.

Now I have a company, ZF Design, which has completed 450 projects around the world. I have always worked very hard and been passionate about what I’m doing. And about doing it properly and working with people who were the best in their field. We are 25 people in the creative department – architects, interior designers, colour specialists,

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ROYAL FAMILY / Fadillioglu grew up in a house on the waterfront, which was designed by the same family that designed the Beylerbeyi Palace (pictured) MODERN ART / Fadillioglu says that a new gallery opens every month in Istanbul, but one of the best is Istanbul Modern (pictured) PERSONAL PROJECT / Fadillioglu designed the Şakirin Mosque (pictured), becoming the first woman ever to design one

artists, set designers, product designers. But really I moved into architecture and design without intending to.

I was lucky. In 1983 I designed an Ottoman tent. It was for my husband’s summer club. While living in London I would go to the Victoria and Albert Museum to see Turkish textiles and calligraphy. These things were not so much on display in Istanbul at the time. And those influences came out in my design.

And people in Turkey said, “Did you bring this from India?” It was incredible that they did not recognise their own designs. So much had been lost.

A lot of other work followed this. I designed a restaurant in London using textiles and felt together, and leather on the ceiling like the bazaars in Istanbul. I won the Andrew Martin International Designer Of The Year Award and, in 2005, Modern Designer Of The Year.

After these awards I was contacted to design the interiors of a mosque that the Şakirin family were donating to Istanbul in the name of their parents.

There was already an appointed architect, but what he offered to the family was a reproduction of the mosque he’d already built for two other clients, and this conflicted with the family’s wish for a unique mosque. So they put me in charge of designing the interior and consulting on the architectural features of the mosque. And the architect resigned. So I found myself in complete charge.

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While designing the mosque, I worked with five theologians to avoid any mistakes, and in the beginning it wasn’t an issue that I was a woman designing a mosque. Living in Istanbul and being a strong personality I have never felt different as a woman, because I do not allow people to treat me differently, but if I were less privileged, living in other parts of Turkey, I might have felt it.

But I kept very quiet, because I did not want my being a woman to be an issue. I built it in a very discreet manner with my team, but when it came out, I realised being a woman was a very important issue. No woman had designed a mosque anywhere. But if it was going to happen anywhere it would be in Turkey.

Frankly speaking, I think there are more women out working in Turkish society these days. Before it was a smaller, more privileged group of women during the Republic. But there were a lot of women in Anatolia who were working in their husbands’ homes who did not have much freedom. With the Islamic Party coming to power and making the headscarf an issue, women wearing the scarf have been able to get out and been able to work. In the beginning I did not think this, but for some the headscarf has been a liberty.

Turkey I find is strong, it has a very strong middle class and an educated people. It’s going through a transition. As for Istanbul, its energy is amazing. It has such a young population.

When this Ghezi Park protest started, the younger generation really amazed me. I realised that I had underestimated them.

Istanbul is a very exciting city, especially the nightlife. Even the tiniest fish restaurant is amazing. I like Kahraman (especially for turbot) and Kiyi for fish and Hamdi in the old favourite mosque / Fadillioglu part of the city for kebab. visits the famous Ulus 29 is wonderful for Süleymaniye Mosque its views of the Bosphorus to see the Iznik tiles and some of the best oLD favourite / examples of world cuisine. The clubs are amazing, especially those on the waterfront Hamdi serves the in the summer. best kebab in Istanbul, And there is a growing art scene. When I started it was very hard for me to convince according to Fadillioglu someone to buy modern art, until five years ago, but suddenly it’s changed. This is the maGiCaL mosaiCs / funny thing about Turkey: when people start following something, they go after it very The mosaics on display quickly. Every month there are more galleries opening. I’d recommend Nev, Salt, Apel at Istanbul’s Chora and Galerist. Then there’s the Istanbul Modern and the Sakıp Sabancı Museum. But Museum are “incredible”, says Fadillioglu for me the Chora Museum, an old Byzantine church, is incredible for its mosaics and the Süleymaniye Mosque for its Iznik tiles. zfdesign.com

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AMERICA MEETS THE

BEATLES Fifty year ago this month, on February 7, 1964, British pop senstations The Beatles left thousands of screaming fans at London’s Heathrow Airport and boarded Pan Am flight 101 on their first trip to America. The band’s single, I Want To Hold Your Hand, was already number one on the Billboard Hot 100, and when John, Paul, George and Ringo landed at John F Kennedy Airport, they were met with a similar scene to the one they had just left in London – a horde of overwrought American fans. On February 9, The Beatles made the first of two historic performances on The Ed Sullivan Show in New York, drawing an audience of 73 million, a record number at the time. The band flew to Washington for a performance at the Washington Coliseum on February 11, where they played to an audience of 8,000, following it with another show at Carnegie Hall back in New York the next day. On February 15, the second album released by The Beatles’ in the US, Meet The Beatles!, topped the Billboard 200 album chart. The band boarded a flight to Miami Beach, Florida, where they played on The Ed Sullivan Show for a second time on February 16, once again attracting a large audience, before returning to New York’s JFK for their return flight to London on February 22, where they were again met by a crowd of hysterical fans. The ‘British Invasion’ had begun, and The Beatles were on their way to becoming the biggest pop band in history.

The Beatles – (from left) John Lennon, Paul McCartney, Ringo Starr and George Harrison – wave to the huge crowd that greeted them on the tarmac at JFK on February 7, 1964

Paul McCartney gives TV host Ed Sullivan a guitar lesson during rehearsals for The Beatles’ first appearance on The Ed Sullivan Show on February 9, 1964, while John Lennon and Ringo Starr look on

The Beatles rehearse in the Deauville Hotel, Miami Beach, Florida, ahead of their second performance on The Ed Sullivan Show on February 16, 1964

The Beatles stop off at the 5th Street Gym in Miami on february 22, 1964 to meet boxer Cassius Clay (later Muhammad Ali) as he prepared for his title fight with Sonny Liston. The band, who would fly back to the UK later that day, are holding cards displaying Clay’s vital statistics

Fans of The Beatles with a sign declaring their love for the band ahead of the Fab Four’s Carnegie Hall performance on February 12

The Beatles having fun in the snow outside the Washington Coliseum ahead of their sell-out performance on February 11, 1964

Fans await the band’s return to London from America on February 22, 1964 with a sign in the shape of a beetle emblazoned with John Lennon’s name

Die-hard fan Susan Sims, 16, plastered in signs celebrating The Beatles’ return from America clings on to the band’s Rolls Royce for dear life as they leave a London TV studio on February 24, 1964

• • • • • • • •

Contract Drafting & Review Business Setup , Offshore & Free Zone Companies Corporate & Commercial Legal Services Litigation & Arbitration Debt Collection Banking, Insurance & Maritime Cases Real Estate, Construction & Labor Cases Trademarks, Patents & Copyrights

‫ﺻﻴﺎﻏﺔ ﺍﻟﻌﻘﻮﺩ ﻭﻣﺮﺍﺟﻌﺘﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﺗﺄﺳﻴﺲ ﺍﻟﺸﺮﻛﺎﺕ ﻭﺍﻷﻭﻓﺸﻮﺭ ﻭﺍﳌﻨﺎﻃﻖ ﺍﳊﺮﺓ‬ ‫ﺍﳋﺪﻣﺎﺕ ﺍﻟﻘﺎﻧﻮﻧﻴﺔ ﻟﻸﻓﺮﺍﺩ ﻭﺍﻟﺸﺮﻛﺎﺕ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﺘﻘﺎﺿﻲ ﻭ ﺍﻟﺘﺤﻜﻴﻢ‬ ‫ﲢﺼﻴﻞ ﺍﻟﺪﻳﻮﻥ‬ ‫ﻗﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﺒﻨﻮﻙ ﻭﺍﻟﺘﺄﻣﲔ ﻭﺍﻟﻘﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﺒﺤﺮﻳﺔ‬ ‫ﻗﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﳌﻘﺎﻭﻻﺕ ﻭﺍﻟﻌﻘﺎﺭﺍﺕ ﻭﺍﻟﻘﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﻌﻤﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﻌﻼﻣﺎﺕ ﺍﻟﺘﺠﺎﺭﻳﺔ ﻭﺑﺮﺍﺀﺍﺕ ﺍﻻﺧﺘﺮﺍﻉ ﻭﺣﻘﻮﻕ ﺍﳌﺆﻟﻒ‬

• • • • • • • •

DUBAI EMIRATES TOWERS, 14TH FLOOR, SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD P.O. BOX: 9055, DUBAI, UAE TEL: +971 4 330 4343 | FAX: +971 4 330 3993 contact@emiratesadvocates.com | www.emiratesadvocates.com ABU DHABI Tel: +971 2 6394446 auh@emiratesadvocates.com

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WITH AFFILIATE OFFICES IN SAUDI ARABIA, QATAR, BAHRAIN, KUWAIT AND OMAN

FOR 24 HOUR LEGAL ASSISTANCE, PLEASE CALL +971 (50) 328 99 99

Emirates Airline Festival of Literature More big names have been announced for the annual Dubai festival

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briefing ARABIAN ADVENTURES: Emirates destination management company's latest desert safari JAMIE CULLUM: We talk to the jazz star before his performance at the Dubai Jazz Festival this month RoUTEMAp: Discover the world as connected by Emirates

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briefing

news nEW ARAbIAn AdVEnTuRES SAfARI EmIRATES' dESTInATIon mAnAGEmEnT CompAny, ARAbIAn AdVEnTuRES, hAS InTRoduCEd A nEW oVERnIGhT dESERT SAfARI.

Arabian Dreams, an exclusive overnight camping safari in the desert, is tailored to give visitors to Dubai a relaxing, enchanting and comfortable overnight desert camping experience.

Available daily during the winter months, Arabian Dreams can be booked from Dhs895 per person, and the experience includes return transfers by 4x4, a dune drive through the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve (DDCR), a falconry show, a camel ride, a BBQ dinner with select beverages, accommodation in a twoperson tent equipped with a queen-size bed, a hot breakfast and a morning wildlife sightseeing tour.

The sightseeing tour will provide the opportunity to observe Arabian oryx and gazelles in their natural habitat. arabian-adventures.com

GATWICK A380 SERVICE EmIRATES hAS AnnounCEd ThAT IT WIll opERATE A REGulAR A380 SERVICE fRom dubAI To london’S GATWICK AIRpoRT.

From March 2014, the airline’s current Boeing 777-300ER service will be replaced by the 489-seat A380, bringing a 36 per cent increase on one of its three daily

flights. The new A380 flight will depart Dubai at 3pm and arrive at Gatwick Airport at 7.30pm, with the return flight departing London at 9.15pm and arriving in Dubai at 7.20am the following day. The two decks of the Emirates A380 will offer 399 seats in Economy Class, 76 lie-flat seats in Business Class and

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14 luxury First Class Private Suites.

Emirates is the largest operator of A380 aircraft in the world with 45 in its fleet and 95 on order.

The A380 currently serves 25 destinations, and is scheduled to start operating an A380 service to Barcelona this month. emirates.com

Your home in Dubai

‫ﻳﻘﻊ ﺍﻟﻔﻨﺪﻕ ﻓﻰ ﻗﻠﺐ ﺇﻣﺎﺭﺓ ﺩﺑﻲ‬

Located in the heart of Dubai

‫ﺃﻣﺎﻡ ﻣﺤﻄﺔ ﺍﳌﺘﺮﻭ‬

Opposite Metro Station Walking distance to Burj Khalifa, world’s tallest skyscraper Dubai Airport - 15 min.

Abu Dhabi Airport - 45 min.

Walking distance to shopping malls Close to Business Hubs ( DIFC, DWTC ) Spa & Outdoor Swimming Pool

US$150 Starting Rate.

Terms and conditions apply

‫ﺑﻴﺘﻚ ﻓﻰ ﺩﺑﻲ‬

‫ ﺃﻃﻮﻝ ﺑﺮﺝ ﻓﻰ ﺍﻟﻌﺎﻟﻢ‬، ‫ﻣﺴﺎﻓﺔ ﻗﺼﻴﺮﺓ ﺇﻟﻰ ﺑﺮﺝ ﺧﻠﻴﻔﺔ‬

‫ ﺩﻗﻴﻘﺔ‬15 ‫ﻣﻄﺎﺭ ﺩﺑﻲ ﻋﻠﻲ ﺑﻌﺪ‬

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.‫ ﺩﻭﻻﺭ‬150 ‫ﺗﺒﺪﺃ ﺍﻻﺳﻌﺎﺭ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ﺗﻄﺒﻖ ﺍﻟﺸﺮﻭﻁ ﻭﺍﻷﺣﻜﺎﻡ‬

Sheikh Zayed Road, P.O Box 116957, Dubai, United Arab Emirates Tel: +971 4 323 0000 Fax: +971 4 323 0003 reservation@emiratesgrandhotel.com www.emiratesgrandhotel.com

briefing

news BIG NAMES ANNOUNCED FOR FESTIVAL OF LITERATURE

ThE ORGANISERS OF ThE EMIRATES AIRLINE FESTIVAL OF LITERATURE

recently announced that eight more big names have been added to the list of festival participants, which now features more than 140 stars from 24 countries.

The list of additional participants includes broadcast journalist Jeremy Paxman, TV chef Silvena Rowe, Swedish crime writer Camilla Lackberg, novelist

and journalist Melanie Chappuis, poet and playwright Lemn Sissay, author Yasir Suleiman and cartoonist Zep. The eight newcomers join an already impressive roster of stars, which also includes bestselling author Joanne Harris, crime writer Peter James, prima ballerina Darcey Bussell, lyricist Tim Rice, British daytime TV hosts Richard Madeley and Judy

Finnigan, cricket commentator Henry Blofeld, Indian novelists Amish and Pankaj Mishra, Booker Prize-nominated author Ahdaf Soueif, Moroccan poet Mohammed Achaari, diplomat Paddy Ashdown, journalist Jeremy Bowen, who will also give the prestigious Orwell Lecture, and former UK poet laureate Andrew Motion.

Visitors to the festival can also enjoy a full programme of events, starting with the opening ceremony on March 4, where Riz Khan will host a discussion between Paddy Ashdown, Pam Ayres and Tim Rice. The programme also includes panel discussions, lectures, a Desert Stanzas And Murder Mystery Dinner, poetry and music night Friday Rhythms and a special children’s programme featuring authors such as John Burningham, Eoin Colfer and Charlie Higson.

The sixth edition of the festival will be held over five days from March 4 to March 8 in Dubai, with ticket prices starting from Dhs40. Further information, including a full schedule and list of participants, can be found on the festival website. emirateslitfest.com

Perfect timing Don’t miss your next Emirates flight. Make sure you get to your boarding gate on time.

Boarding starts 45 minutes before your flight and gates close 20 minutes before departure. If you report late we will not be able to accept you for travel.

Thank you for your cooperation.

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briefing

news EmiratEs airlinE Dubai Jazz FEstival

EmiratEs airlinE Dubai Jazz FEstival is set to take place at Fesival Park in Dubai Festival City from February 13 to February 20.

The 12th edition of the music festival boasts a stellar line-up, opening in style with American alternative rock band Stone Temple Pilots With Chester Bennington, supported by Dubai-based rockers Juliana Down on February 13.

British pop star Olly Murs and five-piece pop band The Wanted will perform on Valentine’s Day, while Grammy Award-winning singer-songwriter Colbie Caillat and jazz crossover artist Jamie Cullum will headline the second weekend of the festival. The festival will close with a performance by music legend Santana and his band.

This year’s festival will see the introduction of the Jazz Garden The Legends Edition, which will host performances by jazz artists such as Larry Carlton, Al Foster, Billy Childs and Kirk Lightsey. dubaijazzfest.com

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briefing

news

Q&A: JAMIE CULLUM Popular jazz singer-songwriter and pianist Jamie Cullum has released six studio albums, including his latest, Momentum, is married to the modelturned-writer Sophie Dahl and has two young daughters. He will perform at Emirates Airline Dubai Jazz Festival this month

You are performing at the Emirates Airline Dubai Jazz Festival this month. It's not your first visit to Dubai. What inspired you to return?

I had such fun last time I played in Dubai. The audience was fantastic, and let’s face it – who doesn’t want to escape from the UK in February?

Jazz is slowly growing in popularity in the region. When you visit a city to perform, how much time do you spend exploring the local jazz scene?

Obviously it depends on how busy I am when I am in town, but I do find myself wanting to check out the local music scene wherever I am, not just jazz. It’s my choice of thing to do to unwind after my own gig.

As an artist working in a genre that perhaps isn't as popular now as it was in its heyday, how great a responsibility do you feel to promote jazz as a genre and support emerging artists?

I don’t so much feel responsible, it’s more of an inescapable urge to shout about how much great music there is that floats under the radar. I have the chance to do this regularly on my weekly BBC Radio 2 show.

What are your aims for the BBC Radio 2 show?

It’s an amazing opportunity to infiltrate people's homes at a respectable hour with some incredible music they are unlikely to have heard on the biggest radio station in Europe. I try to present it in a way that is fresh and exciting, even if often the music is old.

You are often described as a ‘crossover’ artist, as you don't restrict yourself to playing traditional jazz. How do more 'traditional' jazz artists react to your music?

Jazz musicians are far more open than you would expect, but of course you do get purists in every genre – from heavy metal to classical. I find that if the intention is truthful and the musicianship real, people with no axe to grind are into it.

You famously use the Stomp Box to amplify the tapping of your foot, you like to bang things with your palms and beat box. Is that why you love the improvisational element of jazz?

The element of improvisation has always been essential for me to truly enjoy playing music.

Communicating without words, trying to anticipate another player’s next move, it is so exciting. When I am in that space I lose all inhibitions and just go for it.

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We hear that you don't follow a set list, so your gigs are also improvised. Do you ever worry that the set will just be a mess?

That is often the case, it is true. I think when things are a mess that this is not always a bad thing. Rough edges make things more human.

How has your most recent album, Momentum, been received?

I am thrilled with both the album and its response. It has totally surpassed my expectations. I am six albums and 10 years in.

What new projects are you working on?

I have already made another album, which I hope will come out later this year. It is an exercise in pure jazz.

I am also in the process of making another album that is more in the vein of Momentum and its genre hopping sound.

In 2013 you released your first album for four years and became a father for the second time. How easy is it to juggle family life with performing, promoting and creating music?

It is not easy. Not easy for any parent, though, juggling professional and family life. I think I am starting to find the right balance, and I know what my priorities are.

What can we expect from your set at the Emirates Airline Dubai Jazz Festival?

Fireworks! Energy and good times.

What are your plans for the rest of 2014?

Music, parenting and lots more dancing.

Can we expect you to pay regular visits to Dubai in the future?

If I get the same reaction I did last time it’s a dead cert. dubaijazzfest.com

briefing

Comfort

Wellness in the air

To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you to enjoy your journey and time on board with Emirates today.

smart traveller

Drink plentY of Water Rehydrate with water or juices frequently.

Drink tea and coffee in moderation.

travel lightlY Carry only the essential items that you will need during your flight.

Before Your JourneY Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition.

Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications?

Get a good night’s rest before the flight.

Eat lightly and sensibly.

Wear glasses Cabin air is drier than normal, therefore swap your contact lenses for glasses.

at the airport Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in.

Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress.

Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

use skin moisturiser Apply a good quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.

keep moving exercise your lower legs and calf muscles.

This encourages blood flow.

During the flight Chewing and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent.

Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy.

Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently.

Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

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Open skies / February 2014

make Yourself comfortaBle Loosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body.

When You arrive Try some light exercise, or read if you can’t sleep after arrival.

briefing

Visas & UaE smart GatE Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle free as possible.

CUSTomS DEClArATIon Form

electronic system for travel authorisation (esta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Programme, You must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure.

esta facts:

All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only.

The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending.

A successful ESTA application is valid for two years, however this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.

apply online at www.cbp.Gov/esta nationalities eliGible for the visa waiver*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, latvia, liechtenstein, lithuania, luxemburg, malta, monaco, The netherlands, new Zealand, norway, Portugal, San marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**

* subject to chanGe ** only british citizens qualify under the visa waiver proGramme.

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BE SMART!

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES

USE UAE SMART GATE AT DUBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GO THROUGH IMMIGRATION IN SECONDS AND GET YOUR VISIT TO DUBAI OFF TO A FLYING START Citizens of the countries listed to the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International Airport by using UAE Smart Gate.

If you hold a machine readable passport, UAE Emirates ID card or E-Gate card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds.

Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International Airport.

USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

1

Have your UAE Emirates ID card, E-Gate card or machine-readable passport ready to be scanned

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, you can scan your UAE Emirates ID card.

If you have an E-Gate card place it into the E-Gate slot

2 3

OK!

Go through the open gate, stand in the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and remain still for your iris scan. When finished, the next set of gates will open and you can proceed to baggage claim

UAE

ANDORRA

AUSTRALIA

AUSTRIA

BAHRAIN

BELGIUM

BRUNEI

CANADA

DENMARK

FINLAND

FRANCE

GERMANY

GREECE

ICELAND

IRELAND

ITALY

JAPAN

KUWAIT

LICHTENSTEIN

LUXEMBOURG

MALAYSIA

MONACO

NETHERLANDS

NEW ZEALAND

NORWAY

OMAN

PORTUGAL

QATAR

SAN MARINO

SAUDI ARABIA

SINGAPORE

SOUTH KOREA

SPAIN

SWEDEN

SWITZERLAND

*UK

USA

*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having your details validated by an Immigration officer. That’s it! Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you landed.

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OPEN SKIES / FEBRUARY 2014

UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY:

Machine readable passports from the above countries UAE Emirates ID cards E-Gate cards

ROUTE MAP

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NEW ROUTES:

Taipei: from February 10, 2014 Boston: from March 10, 2014

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ROUTE MAP

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INTERNATIONAL CONTEMPORARY SCULPTOR

HELIDON

XHIXHA

THE MOULDING POWER OF LIGHT “I don’t sculpt materials; I use materials to sculpt light” MILAN – LUGANO – MIAMI – DUBAI www.xhixha.it | ENQUIRIES +971(0)508583442 | info@xhixha.it

ROUTE MAP

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PARK BOSPHORUS HOTEL İSTANBUL

Memorable EXPERIENCES Where classical elegance meets modern style.

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HOTELS & RESORTS

the FLeet

Our fleet contains 215 planes made up of 203 passenger planes and 12 cargo planes

Boeing 777-300eR

Number of Aircraft: 92 Capacity: 354-442 Range: 14,594km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 64.8m

Boeing 777-300

Number of Aircraft: 12 Capacity: 364 Range: 11,029km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 60.9m

Boeing 777-200LR

Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 266 Range: 17,446km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m

Boeing 777-200

Number of Aircraft: 9 Capacity: 274-346 Range: 9,649km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 60.9m

Boeing 777F

Number of Aircraft: 10 Range: 9,260km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet

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Airbus A380-800

Number of Aircraft: 45 Capacity: 489-517 Range: 15,000km Length: 72.7m Wingspan: 79.8m

Airbus A340-500

Number of Aircraft: 9 Capacity: 258 Range: 16,050km Length: 67.9m Wingspan: 63.4m

Airbus A340-300

Number of Aircraft: 4 Capacity: 267 Range: 13,350km Length: 63.6m Wingspan: 60.3m

Airbus A330-200

Number of Aircraft: 22 Capacity: 237-278 Range: 12,200km Length: 58.8m Wingspan: 60.3m

boeing 747-400erF

Number of Aircraft: 2 Range:9,204km Length: 70.6m Wingspan: 64.4m Aircraft numbers as of February 2014

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last look

Miami

JESSICA MOTES 28, FOUNDER, HIPPIE BLING MIDTOWN, MIAMI

I’m a beach bum, so the weather is what I love most about Miami.

The people here are amazing.

There’s so much culture – a lot of inspiration. You find a lot of creative minds in Miami. I’m here in Midtown hitting up all the Art Basel tents. I’m a big art freak. I’m inspired by both art and fashion; I’ve been modelling for 15 years.

This area is still up-and-coming, it’s so diverse, and there is a lot of art and restaurants and all the pop-ups that are happening here are very cool. When it comes to my personal style, I love boho chic. I am free-spirited, and I’m a little hippie at heart. I was just feeling this outfit today; I love black and gold. Even my business card is black and gold.

image: melodie Jeng

hippiebling.com

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