Open Skies | September 2017

WHY NAPLES STILL LOVES MARADONA

Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Ian Fairservice Gina Johnson gina@motivate.ae Mark Evans marke@motivate.ae Andrew Nagy andrew.nagy@motivate.ae Roui Francisco rom@motivate.ae Surajit Dutta surajit@motivate.ae Donnie Miguel donnie.miguel@motivate.ae Salil Kumar salil@motivate.ae Londresa Flores londresa@motivate.ae

Editor-in-ChiEf Managing PartnEr & grouP Editor EditoriaL dirECtor grouP Editor SEnior Editor digitaL / Print dESignEr digitaL aniMator VidEo Editor Sub Editor EditoriaL aSSiStant

ContributorS

Emma Coiler, Gary Evans, Sarah Freeman, Peter Hendrie, Marina Kay, Thomas Mester, Sean Williams, Chris Young Cover: Massimo Sambucetti

gEnEraL ManagEr ProduCtion S Sunil Kumar ProduCtion ManagEr R Murali Krishnan

ChiEf CoMMErCiaL offiCEr Anthony Milne anthony@motivate.ae

grouP SaLES ManagEr Michael Underdown michael@motivate.ae

SEnior SaLES ManagEr Shruti Srivastava shruti.srivastava@motivate.ae

SEnior SaLES ManagEr Michelle Quinn michelle.quinn@motivate.ae

EditoriaL ConSuLtantS for EMiratES Editor Manna Talib arabiC Editor Hatem Omar dEPuty Editor Catherine Freeman WEbSitE emirates.com

InternatIonal MedIa representatIves auStraLia/nEW ZEaLand Okeeffe Media; Tel + 61 894 472 734, okeeffekev@bigpond.com.au bELgiuM and LuXEMbourg M.P.S. Benelux; Tel +322 720 9799, francesco.sutton@mps-adv.com China Publicitas Advertising; Tel +86 10 5879 5885 gErMany IMV Internationale Medien Vermarktung GmbH; Tel +49 8151 550 8959, w.jaeger@imv-media.com hong Kong/MaLaySia/thaiLand Sonney Media Networks; Tel +852 2151 2351, hemant@sonneymedia.com india Media Star; Tel +91 22 4220 2103, ravi@mediastar.co.in JaPan Tandem Inc.; Tel + 81 3 3541 4166, all@tandem-inc.com nEthErLandS giO media; Tel +31 (0)6 22238420, giovanni@giO-media.nl PaKiStan D&S International News Agency; Tel +92 3235345727, dnsnewsagency@gmail.com SWitZErLand, franCE/itaLy & SPain IMM International; Tel +331 40 1300 30, n.devos@imm-international.com turKEy Media Ltd.; Tel +90 212 275 51 52, mediamarketingtr@medialtd.com.tr uK Spafax Inflight Media; Tel +44 207 906 2001, nhopkins@spafax.com uSa World Media Inc; Tel: +1 212 244 5610, natalyameytin@worldmediaonline.com Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

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134,109 copies July – December 2016 Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE

FOR THE CITY WHERE NOTHING IS IMPOSSIBLE… THE SHOW THAT PROVES IT. N OW L I VE AT AL H ABTOOR C IT Y

La Perle by Dragone is the region’s first ever permanent show, featuring 65 world-class artists. Created by world-renowned Artistic Director Franco Dragone, La Perle combines the spirit of Dubai with an iconic 860 sqm aqua-stage to deliver an unmissable spectacle in, on, and above water.

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LaPerle.com

E d i t o r ’ s

l E t t E r

ANDREW NAGY

on the Cover

SENiOr EDiTOr

A

few months ago, Diego Maradona was made an honorary citizen of Naples.

The evening ended with him sitting on top of a van, topless, and leading fans in the chant: “Whoever isn’t cheering is a Juventus fan.”

As a Napoli player, Maradona made miracles happen – two Serie A titles, a Coppa Italia and the Uefa Cup – and his extraordinary achievements at the unfashionable club in the south are why the people love him. But that he ended

and like them, he wanted to stick it to the nor th. That the riches of his own existence was a far cry from the majority of suppor ters was of little consequence.

Maradona had promised them trophies and they were going along with him – 75,000 turning out simply to see him sign his contract. Two years later they became the first southern team to win the league title, and his place in Neapolitan history was assured.

Our cover story this month took the writer Gary Evans into the hear t of the

this wasn’t football, it was politiCs, but maradona exCelled there, too – at least in revolutionary intent this night on top of a van, minus his top and singing football songs against the north is why they really love him.

His 1984 signing alone was an act of defiance by chairman Corrado Ferlaino; a slap in face for the football powerhouses of Milan, Inter, Juventus and Roma who so desperately coveted the little Argentinian’s signature. This wasn’t football, it was politics, but Maradona excelled there, too – at least when it came to revolutionary intent.

A desire to upset the natural order identified Maradona as one of their own in the eyes of the Neapolitans. Like them, he had been born into pover ty; like them, he simmered with injustice;

city, just prior to Maradona’s celebration and honorary citizenship. He found a people that hadn’t changed much in the 30 years since that first league title: still passionate, still defiant, still in love with Diego Maradona.

After seven years, and many trophies, Maradona left Napoli in disgrace. He’d upset the Mafia, the chairman and, well, countless others. He’d disappeared, got the huff and generally caused mayhem and scandal like only this par ticular Argentinian could. But the city couldn’t stay mad at the man for long… and therein lies the true magic of Maradona.

why naples still loves maradona Thirty years after bringing a first league title to Napoli, Diego Maradona is still the king of Naples. Even to those who never saw him play in their colours. Our cover by Massimo Sambucetti shows the main man at his best.

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C O N T E N T S

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A View From The Window

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AUGUST 31 ONWARDS

LA PERLE DUBAI, UAE

EXECUTIVE PRODUCER CRAIG HARTENSTINE EXPLAINS WHY LA PERLE JUST MIGHT BE THE MOST AMAZING SHOW YOU’LL EVER SEE To the city that trades in superlatives, La Perle delivers one of the most spectacular shows in the world, fusing incredible artistic performances, immersive imagery and groundbreaking technology.

Franco Dragone – famed for his work with Cirque du Soleil – was approached with an idea to create a spectacular entertainment show that would tell the story of the UAE. Throughout the show aspects of Dubai’s rich culture and history, vibrant present and aspirational future are featured through the music, special effects, action and scenery.

The scale and magnitude of the show is just so spectacular that we had to build a theatre around it. It’s a unique immersive

experience as soon as you enter the theatre, with walls that give the impression of entering a cave and a floor and ceiling that come alive in ways that will transport the audience to another world.There are just 14 rows of seats wrapping 270 degrees around the stage, providing visitors with exceptional views of the show while each seat offers an intimate and completely different perspective as the action unfolds.

The 65 artists began rehearsals in October, when they took over the region’s biggest soundstage in Dubai Studio City and went through what is known as Training and formation.This is when the artists refine their skills and disciplines and learn to cross-train

across different specialities such as slacklining, diving and acrobatics.

Once the theatre was ready, the artistic and technical teams moved to Al Habtoor City and started rehearsing daily onstage as we began what we call Creation – the final stage when Dragone and his team create the vision for his masterpiece.

The whole team is extremely proud of La Perle and we’re looking forward to welcoming everyone there to fully immerse themselves in the wonderful world we’ve created. We aim to deliver a one-of-a-kind entertainment experience, so be sure to expect the unexpected. laperle.com

Download the Emirates App – available for iPhone, iPad and Android. Your personal journey planner makes it easy to view and arrange your trips when you’re on the go. Designed to complement the iPhone app, there’s also an Emirates App for Apple Watch.

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E x p E r i E n c E

September 15-17

The Good Life experience Wales, UK

I wanted to stage a weekend that celebrates the natural world and wildlife, which offers activities like bushcraft, foraging and cooking on a fire in addition to the usual music and literature. More than anything, however, we wanted to get away from blind consumerism.

There’s no VIP area; here everybody is equal.

This is the weekend in the year when I can invite the passionate people I meet to come and meet other curious, like-minded people. We’re part of the renaissance of interest in traditional crafts and we welcome more than 50 makers to the show, including axesmiths from Manhattan, denim-makers from Shoreditch, rope weavers, potters, screen painters and

more. They all give talks and demos, mostly all for free once you’re on the site.

We handpick all our guests and contributors. We had the author Michael Morpurgo last year. The poet Michael Rosen is coming this year as well as legendary DJ Norman Jay and chef Thomasina Miers. We also have an authentic Wild West hoedown on Friday night and Beethoven’s Eroica being performed live on Sunday. It’s quite an eclectic mix.

We began in 2014. I knew there would be people who felt like me – that gadgets and the internet are absolutely brilliant – but who equally didn’t want to wave goodbye to that sense of love for the

outdoors, fresh air and the natural world.

I think the popularity of our festival tells us that we’re beginning to understand that there’s a time and a place for it all. That we need balance and in this megabrand-driven world, a weekend of good company, cultural enlightenment and making memories in the countryside is priceless.

You leave the festival feeling energised and inspired after hearing from scientists, explorers, musicians, writers and philosophers; but my own personal highlight was my 14-year-old daughter walking up to me with straw in her hair and telling me she’d had the best weekend of her life. thegoodlifeexperience.co.uk

Are you a foodie? Check out Lifestyle TV on ice for programmes like Chef vs Science: The Ultimate Kitchen Challenge, Eating Out in Dubai, Hidden Restaurants with Michel Roux Jr, and hit shows from Food Network like Chopped and Beat Bobby Flay.

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iMAgE: TASH LOVE LUVELLA

SiNgER, SONgwRiTER AND CO-FOUNDER OF THE gOOD LiFE ExpERiENCE, cerys MaTThews ExpLAiNS wHy A wEEKEND iN wALES CAN BE gOOD FOR THE SOUL

S t a y : C L a S S I C

THE Hollywood roosEvElT los angeles, Us

Words: ANdrEW NAGY ImAGE: THE HoLLYWood roosEVELT Sitting majestically opposite TCL Chinese Theatre on 7000 Hollywood Boulevard, The Hollywood Roosevelt hosted the first ever Academy Awards ceremony, counted Marilyn Monroe, Clark Gable and Charlie Chaplin as regulars, and was where Errol Flynn is rumoured to have created his recipe for bootleg gin. It’s as much a part of Hollywood legend as the sign in the hills.

Not that they’re trading on names alone. Following a recent US$25 million refurb, the rooms and suites play on the Spanish Colonial Revival style mixed with retro-cool, cabana-style living.

In the morning, head to the Tropicana pool – starring famed David Hockney mural at the bottom – and enjoy free coffee. Spend your day on the Walk of

Emirates operates a daily service to Los Angeles with the Airbus A380.

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Fame outside before heading back for lunch at 25 Degrees, their upmarket take on a classic burger joint.

End the evening at Prohibition-style speakeasy The Spare Room, for drinks, bowling – they have a two-lane alley – and the makings of a sore head. Their famous former patrons would heartily approve. thehollywoodroosevelt.com

S t a y : c o n t e m p o r a r y

25 Hours ZuricH West Zurich, SwitZerland

Words: Christopher Beanland image: 25 hoUrs Here’s the thing – Zurich got hip when nobody was looking. If you don’t believe that, just take pay a visit to the epicentre of its newfound cool status, Zurich West, and book a room in the boutique hotel 25 Hours.

Located in the arts hub and housed in what is essentially a black cube, the design belies the exterior, with a bright colour

palette and cheeky touches – the do not disturb signs are the most creative we’ve seen (trust us, they will make you giggle as well).

The service is friendly and easygoing.

There is a youthful team can’t do enough to help and the food in the onsite restaurant Neni is fantastic home-cooked Middle Eastern mezze. You can even take it

Emirates offers twice-daily service to Zurich with the Airbus A380.

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up to your room in lieu of room service.

Once you’re ready to head into the city, you’ll find a tram right outside that can take you to Zurich’s pretty Downtown.

If you’d rather remain in control, simply take one of the hotel’s two Mini Clubman S cars, with four hours of driving time available to guests absolutely free.

25hours-hotel.com

N e i g h b o u r h o o d

Pinheiros, sĂŁo Paulo, brazil Words and images: sarah freeman

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N e i g h b o u r h o o d

S

andwiched between the elite district of Jardim Paulista and achingly hip Vila Madalena, multicultural, bohemian and slightly grungy Pinheiros is finally stepping out of the shadow of its more established hilly neighbours.

This formerly working class area has its own street art shrines, townhouses repurposed for galleries, shaded cacti courtyards and even coworking spaces that double as launderettes serving cocktails. Rua dos Pinheiros – one of the city’s prime gastronomic destinations – is strewn with restaurants and bars that give nightlife-rich Vila Madalena a run for its money.

Paradoxically Pinheiros (which translates as pines) is more grey than green nowadays.

The dense forest of Brazilian subtropical pine trees that once carpeted its 8sq km footprint, bordered by Reboucas, Dr Arnaldo and Nações Unidas avenues, is long gone. But thankfully, nature still pervades, with ancient trees towering over Pinheiros’ low-rise housing (some of the city’s most desirable) and vertical gardens breathing new life into urban structures.

The last few years have seen investment flooding into the area, thanks to the district’s Faria Lima Station, built in 2013 as a welcome addition to what is South America’s only driverless subway line. But in the face of modernisation and inevitable gentrification, Pinheiros has not forgotten its roots.

Turn-of-the-century botecos still outnumber its millennial-filled cocktail bars, and many of its clubs play authentic Latin American music, not to mention samba, which practically pulsates from the beginning of Cardeal Arcoverde road.

Local chorinho (traditional bands), meanwhile, have made Benedito Calixto Square their second home. Every Saturday the animated square hosts a fleamarket where you can shop for vinyl, antiques and try local street food like tapioca cake or R$10 ($3) pots of acai topped with granola and honey.

The square is intersected by the 3km-long Teodoro Sampaio road, where you can find a throng of shops specialising in musical instruments and luthiers, which line the four blocks extending from Alves Guimarães road to Clinicas metro station.

And while Pinherios might not have Vila Mariana’s art cache, several cultural centres such as Tomie Ohtake and Sesc Pinheiros, together with a slew of secondhand bookstores and independent galleries, are bolstering its artistic credentials.

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N e i g h b o u r h o o d

in the area ( F our -mi nut e wa lk )

Vintage Finds + Vegan Footwear

AT LA GARçONNE

Behind At La Garçonne’s ivy-clad, neon facade could very well be the city’s best collection of high-end vintage interiors, housed under the roof of a vast 500sq m warehouse. Americana-like neon vintage signs are propped up on Brazilian modernist furniture crafted from rare jacaranda wood, alongside one-off pieces such as an antique naval luminaire and table lamp fashioned from a copper agricultural poison sprayer. It’s no wonder owner and curator Fábio Souza, who conceived the brand in 2009, rents out his highly sought-after European, Brazilian and American artefacts for use in lavish fashion editorials. The catwalk collaborations don’t end there. Souza’s partner Alexandre Herchcovitch happens to be one of the country’s most celebrated fashion designers. You can check the native designer’s streetwear couture at the rear of the store, where vegan shoes and signature handpainted vintage jackets are artfully displayed between (very comfy) Italian Chesterfield sofas and objets d’art priced between R$45 (US$14) and R$30,000 (US$9,530).

R Francisco Leitão, 134 Pinheiros | 05414 020 | 11 2364 3280 | alagarconne.com.br

inSeCta SHoeS

Shop sustainably at this gorgeous boutique, which sells statement vegan boots, sandals, slippers and Oxford shoes crafted from recycled plastic and rubber waste and vintage clothes produced in southern Brazil’s Porto Alegre.

R ARtuR de AzevedO, 1295 PinheiROS, 05404 013 | 11 3892 6715 inSectAShOeS.cOm

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N e i g h b o u r h o o d

in the area

Stay + SmoothieS

( T h r e e -mi nuT e wa lk )

GUEST URBAN HOTEL Bunking down in this restored ’60s villa-turned-boutique-hotel will leave you feeling more like a Paulistano than a regular hotel guest. Located on a quiet, tree-lined residential street a stone’s throw from lively Benedito Calixto Square, patrons can eat breakfast out of the open-fronted garage and make themselves at home in the vintage-themed living room, adorned with antique trunks and sewing machines. The 14 bedrooms are decidedly more spartan. The odd retro trinket and riotously coloured fruit print cushion or two soften the unfinished steel, exposed brick and concrete industrial walls. Art lovers will appreciate the original photography (which you can buy in-house), sourced from local gallery Compota Edições Limitadas. Owners and selfconfessed travel junkies Fábio Queiroz and chef Demian Figueiredo go the extra mile to familiarise their Paulistanos in the making with the local surroundings. Daily tips are scrawled on a huge blackboard while rental bikes are stacked up and available to use in the cacti-filled courtyard.

R Lisboa, 493 Cerqueira César, 05413 000 | 11 3081 5030 | guesturbansp.com.br

DOna ViTamina

Who doesn’t like a toilet decorated with a hanging pineapple lamp? Dona Vitamina’s quirky interior and five-aday smoothies (best slurped down in its glorious vertical garden) make for a hugely popular neighbourhood cafe.

R Mateus GRou, 152 PinheiRos, 05415 040 | 11 3063 0582 DonaVitaMina.coM.bR

In March 2017, Emirates commenced a daily A380 service between São Paulo and Dubai, marking the airline’s 10th year of operations in Brazil.

The airline made history in October 2007, becoming the first airline to connect the Middle East and South America with a non-stop direct flight service.

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LIMITED–EDITION LIVING 14 SINGLE-FLOOR RESIDENCES FOR LAVISH BEACHFRONT LIVING. Coming soon to Surfers Paradise.

ENQUIRE NOW TheAuSurfersParadise.com Text AUEmirates to +61428 437 566 for more information

Surfers Paradise, Australia

Artist’s impression

N e i g h b o u r h o o d

in the area ( S e v e nt e e n-minut e wa lk )

Food Market + everything

HOUSE OF ALL There aren’t many places in São Paulo (or any city for that matter) where you can rent a designer label wardrobe, sip on a G&T over a laundry cycle and dine on international cuisine curated by chefs who change daily – all under one roof. And there’s more. The creative, collaborative space, housed across four adjoining buildings, encompasses a funky, co-working annex and skill exchange in the ‘house of learning’. The man behind it is former creative director-turned-entrepreneur Wolfgang Baccarat Menke, who is tapping into the booming global sharing economy. Nicknamed the Netflix of clothing, the style-savvy can upgrade their wardrobe with brands like Christian Dior and Zadig and Voltaire for as little as R$50 ($16) per month. The company is also helping nurture local culinary talent by enabling up-and-coming chefs to run their own restaurant for 24 hours. French chefs Benoit Mathurin and Pierre Anquier sharpened their chef ’s knives here before opening their restaurant, Rooftop Esther, in Republic Square.

R Dr Virgílio de Carvalho Pinto, 47 Pinheiros | 05415 030 | 11 2366 4287 | houseofall.co

meRCaDO muniCiPal De PinHeiROS

Big-name chefs Alex Atala, Rodrigo Oliveira and Checho Gonzales have innovative stalls and table-less restaurants in this traditional market, where you can buy Amazonian mushrooms and taste traditional tapioca or fresh ceviche.

R PedRO CRisti, 89 PinheiROs, 05421 040 | 11 3518 9096 meRCAdOmuniCiPAldePinheiROs.COm

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L u n c h

w i t h

Eric ripErt The man behind one of the most celebrated restaurants in New York City on home cooking, comparisons with Picasso and not aiming for Michelin stars (but still getting them) wordS: MArINA KAY

IMAGES: ThoMAS MESTEr

It’s a rainy Thursday afternoon when I meet Eric Ripert for lunch.

Not that this matters to the diners around me, of course. Here to experience his three- Michelin-starred restaurant, Le Bernardin, reservations will have been made a month prior – a process mandated by the restaurant and orchestrated by a well-organised full-time staff of five. It’s hardly surprising; this is a fine dining establishment that consistently places on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, has a loyal Zagat following and five four-star New York Times reviews, held ever since the restaurant opened in 1986 – three of which earned under the care of Ripert.

“The New York Times is a very well respected institution,” says Ripert, as we settle into the lounge area adjoining the main dining room, now filling up with guests. “When that paper gives you a four-star rating, it’s an immediate, long-lasting success. We receive thousands of calls a week.”

Ripert is the executive chef and co-owner of this impressive French seafood restaurant that makes “fish the star of the show” per Michelin Guide 2017. Located in Midtown Manhattan on

West 51st Street, it commands prime real estate from a streetlevel corner of The Equitable Building, not far from the Museum of Modern Art. For all its sophistication, the serene space is a convivial one, warm for its high teak ceiling, ambient lighting, leather banquettes, and custom-designed millwork.

In person, Ripert is as charmingly reserved as he appears on TV, best known as the side kick to long-time friend Anthony Bourdain, the former chef now famous intrepid host of CNN’s Parts Unknown, who uncovers lesser-known and remote places around the world. Except for their perfectly groomed silver-fox hair, the two couldn’t be more different – the Good + Evil chocolate bar they collaborated on with Williams-Sonoma alludes to this dichotomy – yet theirs is a dynamic that works.

Viewers can’t get enough of this bromance, well documented in episodes set in Marseille, France, all the way to Sichuan, China, where Bourdain took particular glee in watching his friend sweat through a peppercorn- and chili-riddled Sichuanese banquet.

“We have a good exchange,” Ripert says. “People enjoy our

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relationship.” A friendship that is still intact even after Bourdain further coaxed his buddy into an unsuccessful public ear cleaning on a park bench in China.

But Ripert holds his own as a TV host too, as evidenced over three seasons of Avec Eric (two made with PBS, one with Netflix, all available on Amazon), an Emmy-winning series that whisks viewers on a culinary journey with the chef. “I go to the source of inspiration, interact with local people who are farming, foraging, hunting, fishing, wine making. Bringing the viewer with me on my journey of discovery and coming back inspired – that was the idea.” Each episode ends with Ripert in a gleaming white studio kitchen, making a dish in homage to the trip.

At this point wine director Aldo Sohm arrives at our table to present chef a bottle of Puligny Montrachet, Jean Chartron, Burgundy, France 2014. “He went with me to South Australia for seven days and came back so happy. He was drunk the entire time,” Ripert quips. The two had a rollicking good time making season three’s “Off the Vine” episode – exploring Penfolds winery and indulging in fantastic food on Kangaroo Island. Ripert has a stake in Aldo Sohm Wine Bar, which opened around the corner in 2014.

Our first course arrives, filet mignon and kampachi tar tare topped with Osetra caviar and set upon a lightly smoked dashi gelée. This dish speaks to the visual impact of Riper t’s culinary constructs that have drawn parallels to ar t by Pablo Picasso.

“Well, the food has to taste good first. However, because the first contact with the food is your eyes, the food has to look appealing,” he tells me.

A discerning clientele paying top dollar expects a gold-class fine dining experience. Meaning dishes must be made with the best ingredients. Le Bernardin deals with fishermen directly, from Canada to the Carolinas to the South – for snapper. “Ninety-nine per cent of the fish we use is American. Fishing here is very sustainable and they [fisherman] are very conscious of making sure the fish is well preserved and the stock doesn’t decline. We support those ideas of course.” One per cent of the seafood comes from abroad: kampachi from Japan, farm-raised caviar from China (it’s illegal to import caviar from Russia and Iran given that sturgeon is endangered), and Dover sole from Europe. And in line with the tasting menu’s categories – Almost Raw, Barely Touched, and Lightly Cooked – the kitchen never

w i t h

marinates anything. “We do everything at the last minute, to give the flavor of spice, the aromatics, and the flavor of the fish. That’s the style of Le Bernardin,” Ripert explains as a second course of barely cooked Maine scallop with roasted bone marrow, and baby turnips in calamansi-butter sauce is placed before us.

Only when a photographer comes in to take shots of the restaurant and dishes does Ripert know for certain that a Michelin inspector or The New York Times has paid them a visit, which in turn lends a certain anxiety in the lead up to the published review.

The Times’ restaurant critic Pete Wells – not unrecognisable to those who have done their homework – bestowed praise on Le Bernardin most recently in 2012. But it’s not just the critics Ripert is aiming to impress. “The Zagat Survey is very important in New York,” he says. “It’s our clients who are voting for the restaurant.

And in Zagat, we are number one in New York.” These are all different ways of rating a restaurant: Michelin is an international guide, Zagat American, and The New York Times local. Ever since Le Bernardin opened in New York City, having relocated from Paris in 1986 by French chef Gilbert Le Coze and his sister Maguy, The New York Times has confirmed its four stars. Ripert, who joined the restaurant as chef de cuisine in 1991, took over the role of head chef upon Le Coze’s passing in 1994.

Growing up, Ripert was exposed to both his grandmothers’ provincial cooking and his mother’s Michelin-worthy homemade fare. “In my memoir 32 Yolks, I pay homage to my mother’s cooking; I thought every child in the world was eating like me, but it’s not true.” With taste buds influenced by two cuisines – that of Antibes, France, where he was born, and to Andorra, a small country just over the Spanish border where he moved as a young child – at 15 he left home to attend culinary school in Perpignan. He cooked at Paris’ legendary La Tour D’Argent before taking a position at the Michelin three-starred Jamin, where, after fulfilling his military service, he returned as chef poissonier under renowned chef Joël Robuchon.

When Ripert was recruited as chef for Le Bernardin in 1991, he took to the role with passion. “I wanted to be the chef that I am today, in a beautiful restaurant with a big kitchen, working with beautiful products like caviar and truffles,” he tells me over our third course of poached halibut coloured by a kaleidoscope of asparagus, spring peas, fava beans, and morels. “I wanted to have this opportunity to express myself and have the team to help me to create a special experience for clients.” His team includes 65 cooks and eight sous chefs. Two research and development chefs experiment in a test kitchen and constantly present ideas to evolve a menu that is never static.

But does he feel the weight of being a top chef? “I don’t feel the pressure. I don’t think about the stars. Not like it’s not important, but if you think about stars, then it becomes an obsession, then you become stressed, then you’re not creative, then you think about the stars again. I make this analogy: It’s like an actor who’s thinking about winning an Oscar. He’s thinking so much about the Oscar that he forgets about playing [the movie role], and then he’ll never get the award. For us, it’s very much the same. We think

Emirates flies four times daily to New York JFK with the Airbus A380. Choose from three non-stop services, or a daily service that stops in Milan.

Emirates also operates a daily service via Athens to Newark, New Jersey.

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about cooking and serving and making sure people have a good time, and then potentially the star comes, and then you celebrate.”

Losing a star – or a couple as chef Thomas Keller did when Pete Wells decreased Per Se’s from four to two – is not for the fainthearted. Although Ripert doesn’t spread himself thin (the other property he oversees is Blue by Eric Ripert in Grand Cayman), how does he keep the industry quandaries in check? “We have been doing this for many, many years, “ he replies thoughtfully. “It’s our lifestyle.

Every day we are observed by official food critics, by people who are going to write letters and go online. And the only thing we can do is be very sincere, honest, and generous, have the mentality of hospitality, and do the best we can.That’s it.There’s nothing anyone can do, so why worry? I try to teach my team that mentality.”

Ripert has practiced Tibetan Buddhism since the mid-nineties.

“Do not harm or hurt people, do the right thing – this is something that all major religions share. In Buddhism, one god isn’t responsible for everything. It’s all about yourself, and every action you take has consequences, so therefore if you do something good, you have good consequences; something bad, then bad consequences. It’s basically karma,” he explains. In the restaurant

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world where hard work and hostile conditions are a given, it makes sense how a philosophy that aims to cease suffering and achieve spiritual enlightenment might resonate. Each morning he makes time for meditation and Buddhist rituals.

Adhering to Buddhist teachings has served him well. “I used to have a temper. I was a very driven young chef and I think over the years I learned how to be more compassionate. Our kitchen is very peaceful. It was not like that 20 years ago, it has been a progression, an evolution. We try to be as civilised as we can in a difficult environment. We have strong discipline and structure in the kitchen, but at the same time we do not allow abuse. I try not to influence the team with my own spirituality but I try to find a way to apply the principles of Buddhism in a secular non-religious way. It’s very important not to impose on people because as a young man, I didn’t like to have people imposing on me.” Ultimately, for him it all comes down to the right motivations: “Mentoring is important. Communicating the cooking wisdom – any wisdom – that accumulates over the years should be shared.”

Plates cleaned of pan-roasted monkfish and squid ink pasta are whisked away and replaced with a dessert so architectural, it looks too special to eat – a white orb that, when cracked, reveals a bouquet of blueberry sorbet spiked with mezcal, accompanied by corn custard. It reminds me of a dish Ripert fawned over while filming Avec Eric in Sydney’s Sepia restaurant. And yes, Ripert agrees, perhaps this dessert was somehow inspired by that experience. The “Farm to Sydney” episode is part of the series’ third season. Later this fall, the chef will again join Anthony Bourdain on Parts Unknown. And although Ripert has no plans to write a follow-up memoir to 32 Yolks – he says his professional life in America has been documented enough – he’d be partial to Richard Gere playing his part if ever there were to be a 32 Yolks adaptation. Mastering that thirty-two egg yolk hollandaise sauce a la Ripet would certainly make for an Oscar-worthy performance.

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SLEEP IS LIFE’S GREATEST PLEASURE.

SLEEP IS LIFE’S GREATEST PLEASURE.

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A collection of stories from around the world The King of Napoli

A view from the window

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The September issue

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MAIN

The

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How Diego MaraDona Took Napoli to tHe Serie a tiTle, upset The Mafia, left tHe ciTy iN disgrace anD reTurNed as its favouriTe SoN

by gary evans

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in the morning. Diego Maradona and his entourage tumble out of a restaurant. He’s celebrating. He’s just helped Napoli qualify for the 1989 Uefa Cup final. Maradona dances, sings in the street. An old woman who lives nearby opens her window and tells him in no uncertain terms to shut up: “Who the hell do you think you are,” she says, “the owner of Naples?”

Maradona looks up at the old woman, turns on the charm. He smiles and sings his name the way football fans have been singing his name for years: “I’m Maradooooona.” The old woman recognises him now. She claps her hands and blows him a big, long kiss.

Maradona helped his side win the Uefa Cup that year and a second league title the year after that. It completed the most successful period in Napoli’s history, which began with a famous league and cup double in 1987.

When he left Naples, it was in disgrace. He missed training, then he missed matches. He fell out with the players, the manager, the president. He piled on weight and had very public affairs. He fell out of favour with the mafia. During a big game he asked to be substituted and the people of Naples finally lost their patience. In 1991, he received a 15-month ban from football for failing a drugs test. Maradona was done.

But all that is forgotten now. Walk around the streets of Naples and you see his image everywhere. Shops sell all kinds of Maradona merchandise. Massive murals of Maradona cover sides of buildings.

Bars keep shrines to Maradona. Some places display a patron saint for protection but just as many display the face of Maradona. And beneath his face it’s always the same word: dios. Maradona isn’t the owner of Naples. He’s a demigod. But how did it happen?

“Maradona singlehandedly did what the people of Naples had been praying for their whole lives,” says the author Jimmy Burns.

“He was a redeeming god who would help them get their own back on the north.” Burns spent a lot of time in Naples writing his book Maradona: The Hand of God. He told me the story about Diego dancing in the street. He says the city’s obsession with Maradona is tied to its own obsession with death.

The Rough Guides book describes it as “one of the most superstitious on Earth – and in some ways, the most cultish”. So 30 years after that first title win and with the man himself in town

For more football legends, check out Sport TV on ice. This month catch Football’s Greatest: Series 3, which focuses on Italian players Andrea Pirlo, Franco Baresi and Alessandro del Piero amongst others. Channel 1214 on ice Digital Widescreen.

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to accept honorary citizenship, I visited Naples to find out how Maradona redeemed himself.

I took an apartment in the Centro Storico district. The owner wasn’t too bothered about football but she told me about a place that would help me better understand Naples’ supernatural side – the Fontanelle cemetery, an ancient quarry carved into the Materdei Hill which, for hundreds of years, served as an underground tomb for people who couldn’t afford a funeral.

Cool air came floating out of the entrance, like opening a fridge on a hot day. It was dark inside. Orange floor lights sent shadows creeping up the walls. Tibias and fibulas and chunks of spinal column piled up on the floor. Staring at me, hollow-eyed and dusty, were thousands and thousands of skulls. The skulls that still had their jawbones seemed to grin. In one chamber, the sun came in slantwise through a glassless window; the motes of dust floated and glittered in the light. Not so long ago, worshippers visited these skulls, cleaned them, cared for them, prayed to them.

They gave the skulls names, placed them in wooden boxes and told stories about their lives, stories they claimed came to them in dreams. People adopted the skulls.

A cult developed, the Cult of the Dead.

This continued right up until 1969, when a cardinal decided it was getting a bit too weird and closed down the cemetery. It is said some older Neapolitans still worship the skulls. Naples’ next great cult was the cult of Maradona.

“He became sanctified,” says Burns.

“Venerated. Maradona the saint. The church of Maradona. It’s something you see manifested in Latin countries where you have a deeply rooted religious culture, particularly a Catholic one. You believe in miracles and you believe in saints and suddenly you empathise with this person and elevate him to a mythical level.” Burns says because of his own background – growing up in a poor, “paralegal world” – Maradona easily fitted in with life in Naples – and, adds Burns, the Camorra, the Italian mafia-style syndicate which was then rife.

Maradona grew up in Villa Fiorita, a tough suburb of Buenos Aires. “My parents were humble working folk,” he wrote in his autobiography. The 10 members of his family lived in three rooms with no real bathroom or running water, except the rain that fell through the roof. As Maradona put it: “You got wetter inside than out.” As a toddler, Maradona once got lost in the dark and fell into the cesspit. His uncle saved him, shouting: “Diegito, keep your head above the s***.”

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Holding his daughter Dalma after winning Napoli’s first Serie A title in 1987; a mural on the streets

His earliest memories are football. He slept with a ball hugged to his chest. As a boy, shirtless, barefooted, he ran errands playing keepy-uppy. If he didn’t have a ball then he kicked an orange or anything else roughly spherical. At his first football trial aged nine years old, Maradona was so good that the coach suspected he was actually a short adult.

Maradona made his professional debut for Argentinos Juniors at just 15. He spent five years with the Buenos Aires club, scoring more than 100 goals before moving across the city for a season with Boca Juniors. In 1982 Maradona transferred to Barcelona for a then world record fee of US$7.6 million. His time in Catalonia wasn’t all bad but it started poorly and ended catastrophically.

Maradona became the first Barcelona player applauded off the pitch by fans of bitter rivals Real Madrid. The 1984 Copa del Rey, however, which Barcelona lost, escalated into one of the biggest, maddest brawls ever seen in a major tournament. Maradona was in the middle of it all, kneeing an Athletico Bilbao player and knocking him clean out. Maradona was done in Spain.

Juventus fancied Diego. But Napoli president Corrado Ferlaino liked the idea of outbidding the Turin club and the Fiat tycoon who owned it. It would represent economic independence from the Italian establishment. Ferlaino saw buying Maradona as an act of sticking it to the north.

Italy was made up of two economies. The north was and always had been far richer than the south. Many initiatives to support the south failed through corruption, wastefulness and mismanagement.

Unemployment was higher in the south, organised crime more widespread. The north saw the south as a financial drain and resented it – so much so that during Maradona’s time in Italy, several political parties campaigned for northern independence.

napoli president

This extended to football. Three teams, all from the north, dominated Italy: Juventus, Inter Milan and AC Milan. No team south of the Italian Peninsula had ever won the country’s highest league.

Then Diego Armando Maradona arrived and turned the country upside down.

It almost didn’t happen, according to Burns. Deadline day was Friday, June 29 and new transfers had to be registered with the Italian league authorities in Milan. Ferlaino had an employee deliver an envelope containing three names, none of which were Diego Maradona. When on Monday the authorities opened this envelope it contained just one name, Diego Maradona. Someone had switched the envelopes. Who had the power to do this? The Camorra for one, the Neapolitan mafia.The rumour was they might even have contributed to the transfer fee.

However it went down, the deal was done. US$10.48 million later, Maradona flew by helicopter into the Stadio San Paolo in Naples and landed on the pitch for his big unveiling. Streamers streamed. Fireworks excited the 75,000 paying fans into a frenzy, but when supporters couldn’t see Maradona through the swarming photographers, they demanded he do the whole thing again. He came back out onto the pitch, through the tunnel this time.

One newspaper wrote that the city lacks “a mayor, houses, schools, buses, employment and sanitation” but came to the conclusion that “none of this matters because we have Maradona”. The saviour had arrived.

o in a l r e F o d a r r o C bidding

out f o a e id e h t d e ik l na. he saw o d a r a M o t s u t Juven it as sticking it to the

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Greeted by 75,000 fans after signing for Napoli on July 5, 1984

Maradona promised teammates that within a couple of years they would win the league. Napoli finished eighth in his first season and third the season after that. But new players and a new manager did what Maradona always wanted: built the team around him. Then he went away to the World Cup. Maradona’s personal life was in bits before Mexico ’86. His extramarital affairs were big news in Italy, which gave family-first Neapolitans doubts about their idol. People speculated about his involvement with the mafia. He sacked his agent and lifelong friend Jorge Cyterszpiler. His weight was up and down as he struggled with drugs. But from start to finish he dominated the World Cup, scoring five goals and setting up just as many. He returned to Naples at the peak of his power.

The ball seemed to stick to his left foot. He was squat. He had a low centre of gravity that made him unstoppable at high speed.

He scored from obscene angles. He saw things others couldn’t, he saw things before they happened. He made things happen. | 43 |

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l p is D s e c a l p e m o s

t In a s n o r t a p tside for protection but just ou of e c a f e h t y a l p is as many d

a n o D a r a m o DIeG

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He scored directly from corners. He could smack the ball violently into the top corner from a free kick and could nurse the ball delicately over the line after rounding every player on the pitch. Maradona in top gear took the game and turned it into something else, a greater thing.

“There’s a flow in football,” says writer Simon Critchley. “When you watch a game, you submit to that flow. You don’t watch it for the easy pay-off. It’s much more meditative. Football is a way of ordinary working class people, particularly men, enjoying an aesthetic spectacle. It’s not just about winning. It’s about the formal pleasure of watching these bodies in formation in movement.

Football is a kind of working class ballet.”

Critchley’s new book about football is titled exactly that, WorkingClass Ballet. Maradona was certainly capable of engineering these kind of moments. But it still doesn’t explain why Naples still loves him after all these years and despite all his failings. Why do Neapolitans born long after he left the club idolise him?

“Football always seemed better in the past,” says Critchley. “The thing about football is it gives us a nostalgic relationship with the past, which isn’t all bad. It’s solace and it’s a comfort.”

Juventus started the 1986-87 season as defending champions.

Michel Platini guided the Turin side to a cabinet full of trophies in the 1980s, during which time the Frenchman picked up the Ballon d’Or – the European Footballer of the Year award – three times in a row. They called him Le Roi – The King. Platini would retire at the end of the season. For him, there would be no fairytale ending. The king was to be booted off his throne and replaced with a deity – only with a mop of black hair instead of a crown.

Eight games into the season, Maradona’s Napoli visited Platini’s Juventus. Both were unbeaten in the league and both had been knocked out of European competitions. Juventus went 1-0 up.

Then Maradona turned it on. A 3-1 win put Napoli top of the table. Naples started to believe. They would ultimately win the league by three points,and the Coppa Italia to go along with it.

One night in Naples, I got a bit rowdy myself. I was eating pizza and drinking wine in a restaurant on the street. I was talking to a Neapolitan man when an old woman wandered over to the table.

She shouted, gesticulated. In my mind she was shouting: “Who the hell do you think you are, the owner of Naples?”

The man translated. She was only asking if I liked Naples but in a typically theatrical Neapolitan way. I gave her my best grin. I said I did. Very much. She nodded before I’d even answered: “Beautiful Naples,’ she said, already walking away. ‘Beautiful Naples.”

Like many places that have little, the people of Naples put everything into having a good time. They are almost pathologically friendly. Naples is a city crammed into itself the way Maradona is a

MaraDona

in the MidDle east Diego MaraDona sees himself as a son of the Uae, says foUrfoUrtwo arabia editor ali KhaleD

“When Diego Maradona took over as manager of Al Wasl in 2011, few would have imagined he would still be living in the UAE six years later.

Although his one season in charge of the Dubai club was unsuccessful, he had found a place he could call home and has since held an ambassadorial role for Dubai Sports Council, launched football reality television show The Victorious and supported the development of football in the UAE. After a surprise return to Emirati domestic football this summer as coach of First Division side Fujairah, expect Maradona’s love affair with the country to last even longer – should he achieve promotion at the first time of asking.”

man crammed into his own persona. They both believe in angels, in saints, in divine intervention. Both are chaotic and flawed and both are all the more loveable for it. They were a perfect match.

Maradona returned to Naples this summer and the city made him an honorary citizen. It marks 30 years since a home draw with Fiorentina sealed Napoli’s first ever title, the south’s first ever title, when the whole city exploded in sky blue. The parties went on and on. In a post-match interview, asked what Napoli means to him, Maradona said, “It’s my home. It’s my home.”

In true Neapolitan style, a funeral was held for every other team in the league. Coffins decorated in the colours of Juventus, Inter Milan, and AC Milan paraded through the city, a priest blessed them and they were burned. From their death the cult of Maradona was born. Naples had a new shrine.

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A landscape unique to a city or country is never more apparent than when seen from above, when you’re flying in to land and experience it firsthand.

This project – all taken through aeroplane windows – is the result of a life well travelled words and images: peter hendrie | 47 |

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I’ve been photographing from the windows of commercial jets for a long time; as far back as the 1970s and early 1980s, when I did some work with a small regional airline that flew into remote locations in Far North Queensland’s Cape York Peninsula and the islands of the Torres Straits. This airline flew these Douglas DC-3 planes really low because they weren’t pressurised. They had very large windows that were great to shoot out of and it was one of the few chances to get up in the air and photograph things from a different perspective.

A few years later I would fly a lot between Tokyo and Sydney so I would get specific seats, at the back of the plane on the left side, to photograph the sunrise over the Pacific Ocean.

The idea really evolved over many years, shooting a few images from commercial planes every so often, sometimes from remote locations where you couldn’t hire small planes or helicopters such as the Solomon Islands or the Kingdom of Tonga.

It’s really only in the last three years that it has become a project in its own right something that I plan and work on. It happened because my son moved to Washington DC. My wife is originally from California and has family there so I started flying across the US from LA or San Francisco to DC and New York. I began photograping the cities, suburbs, desert areas of Arizona and New Mexico, the mountains of the west and the agricultural areas of Kansas and Oklahoma. I got so much material that it formed the beginning of a collection and it’s now something I’ve been working on fully.

Previous page: Singapore This page: crop circles, Kansas, US

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Top: Solomon Islands Right: Czech Republic

Some of my favourite shots are of the US. The deserts and arid regions of Arizona, New Mexico and Utah with the Colorado River, the Grand Canyon, the Painted Desert and surrounding areas that are wonderful to see from the high elevation. I also like the agricultural patterns of the Vietnamese rice paddies and Spanish olive and citrus orchards. There are the Romanian, Czech, German and northeast England shots, too, with their wheat, canola and sunflower fields.

The city shots near airports that I take when landing and taking off look good and are from locations that would probably be hard to fly in as the airspace around these locations is heavily restricted. These images make a nice series when placed next to each other, with their own characteristics and architecture.

Check out View from Above, one of the largest aerial filming projects ever conducted using unmanned aerial vehicles. Emirates and Boeing paired up to sponsor the project, which filmed in 18 destinations on five continents. Showing now on channel 1328 on ice Digital Widescreen.

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It’s not easy shooting out of an aeroplane window You take what you can get when taking photographs from commercial planes. It’s very different from hiring a helicopter or small plane. For a start you’re shooting through a sheet of Plexiglas that gives you a soft image. This was something that I found difficult to work with in the early days but have recently incorporated it and it can be an advantage as the image looks very painterly. Also you’re working from a much higher spot than when you are in small planes, helicopters and today with drones. This makes for patterns that are much more visible. | 52 |

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It can be difficult to get a suitable window seat away from the wings and the engine fumes, and to get a window that’s not badly scratched and is positioned next to your seat. Sometimes you can be in between two windows, which can make it difficult to use either.

Economy seats right down the back are often the best but the seats in front of the wings are also good.

Reflections are a problem so I tend to wear dark shirts and avoid stripes and bright colours. I also use rubber lens hoods so I can place the lens on the window and reduce reflections.

Sometimes everything happens right but then all you see out of the window is thick cloud. I sit back and try and enjoy the flight and, who knows, the clouds might clear and there’s a great shot there. I guess it’s a little like fishing: get everything right and in place and then be patient and wait.

For more information on Peter Hendrie’s ongoing project, visit peterhendriephotography.com

Colorado River, Arizona, US

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The September issue

From Rome to Rio, almost every major city on earth hosts a fashion week – each highlighting local and international design talent. But as the fashion calendar gets ever busier, could the concept of the show, barely a century old, be about to change forever?

Words by Sean Williams

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t’s hard to imagine fashion without the runway shows we see each year to signal new waves of collections. The sight of models streaming down a catwalk, assailed by flash lenses and the vacant gazes of industry heads and celebrities, has become as staple a style diorama as the starched collars of Karl Lagerfeld or Anna Wintour’s bob.

In reality, the history of the fashion show barely stretches back further than a hundred years. And few have chronicled it. “The omission is curious,” says Slate’s Amanda Fortini.

“The fashion show is not only the promotional linchpin of a multibilliondollar industry, it was also central to the development of the American department store – and to the rise of American consumer culture.”

Shows at the turn of the 20th century bore little resemblance to their trippy, technicolour modern counterparts.

The concept began in 1800s France, as designers began paying “mannequins” to wear their clothing at society events, which would be noticed and reported on by the media.This soon evolved into fashion “parades”, which gathered many designers together to showcase their wares to fans, high society and more than a gaggle of journalists.

By 1903 American designers had begun to take note, and the country’s first fashion show was staged by New York City’s Ehrlich Brothers department store. It spurred a nationwide interest in holding fashion shows, as rival stores saw a chance to drag in industry insiders and consumers. “In the early 20th century, the desire to see clothing in motion flourished on both sides of the Atlantic,” explains fashion historian Caroline Evans. “Models tangoed, slithered, swaggered and undulated before customers in couture houses and department stores.” As it turned out, America’s chance to shine would come during one of the world’s darkest moments. Until 1940 the world’s designers had turned to France – in particular the ateliers of Paris – for their style inspiration. Then the German army invaded and the country was off-limits.

No longer could designers, buyers or socialites study French clothing.

New York publicist Eleanor Lambert saw an opportunity. In 1943 she organised a “Press Week” in an attempt to showcase American design unmoored from its European rivals.

Her show, which continued into the 1950s, gave breakthroughs to future

stars such as Oscar de la Renta and Pauline Trigere.

Early fashion shows were heavily policed by designers desperate not to allow their creations to be copied.

“Fashion pirates” were a staple of the industry, and could sketch a design in New York then sell it to buyers all over the world. To put a stop to it, many shows resorted to banning sketchpads – something to which some shows still actually adhere.

By 1954 Vogue editor Edna Woodman Chase noted that, “Now that fashion shows have become a way of life… a lady is hard put to have lunch, or sip a cocktail, in any smart hotel or store front from New York to Dallas to San Francisco without having lissome young things… swaying down a runway six inches above her nose.”

Soon the fashion show framework was exported all over the world and today it is a global phenomenon, bringing billions of dollars, and millions of jobs to cities that now rely on it for huge portions of their economy.

New York City might just be the king of this fashion-economic complex.

In the 1970s and ’80s, when the city was a depressed, economic mess, New York’s designers and fashionistas began hosting their own shows in loft spaces,

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Chanel’s space-inspired runway show at Paris’ Grand Palais

old warehouses, apartments and anything else they could find. Eventually the craze became so popular that designers were hosting huge crowds in cramped, unsafe spaces. In the early 1990s, after a series of mishaps and close shaves, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) sought a single space in which to house all of the city’s most exciting catwalk shows.

By 1993 New York Fashion Week was created in its current guise. The event now attracts more than 230,000 people annually, and generates a little under a billion dollars for the local economy. It makes more money than the US Open tennis and the NYC Marathon.

New York congresswoman Carolyn Maloney has said: “Fashion doesn’t just make us look good, it helps our nation’s bottom line.” She was not wrong. America spends US$380 billion on fashion apparel per year, and the industry currently employs more than 1.8 million Americans.

London Fashion Week is a smaller affair, but still a major boost for its city’s economy: 2016’s edition brought 105,000 visitors and US$350 million in revenue. Paris relies hugely on its catwalk shows. Last year Paris Fashion Week brought in US$1.41 billion in revenue. The city has six shows per year, meaning that the city makes

around US$8 to US$9 billion per year from its style showcases.

Recent additions to the show calendar, including African Fashion Week in Lagos, Nigeria, and the twiceyearly China Fashion Week in Beijing, have shown how fashion can not just bolster a city’s style credentials, but put it on the fashion map altogether. They also show how, as the global economy has shifted and diversified, fashion is not simply the reserve of a handful of wealthy cities scattered across Europe and North America.

Other major money-spinning cities include Berlin, São Paulo, Los Angeles, Sydney and Istanbul, whose Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, albeit a newcomer, contributes much to the city’s economy. “Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Istanbul is the official | 58 |

fashion event in Turkey that brings all the leading fashion pioneers together,” says fashion director Banu Bolen.

“The event showcases emerging as well as established design talent to an international audience.”

Controversy over the clothing showcased in Istanbul has even led to the emergence of a rival show, Istanbul Modest Fashion Week, which aims to highlight the latest in Muslim attire, a market set to grow to US$327 billion by 2020. Designers include the UAE’s Annah Hariri and Rabia Z and Sweden’s Iman Aldebe.

The modern bible for fashion show fans is the Fashion Calendar, produced by the CFDA and first created by publisher Ruth Finley 65 years ago.

Each year thousands of die-hard influencers and industry professionals

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Be a fashion tourist

Following the style calendar means visiting some of the greatest cities – and architecture – in the world

consult the calendar, as they look to follow the best fashion trends around the world.

Katherine Ormerod, editor at London-based Work Work Work, is one of them. Shows can be “about so much more than the clothes”, she says.

“The most special transport you to another world, with a sense of fantasy and imagination. As fashion changes so often, designers are uniquely placed to make a commentary on contemporary life, acting as a barometer of culture change in an ultra-responsive way.”

“By drawing inspiration from across the creative industries, you often are provided with a strong message through the theatre of a show, which goes far beyond dresses and shoes,” Ormerod adds. “It’s that poignancy and ability to provide a mirror on our times that can make a fashion show so special.”

As with most things in the fashion world, the history of its shows brims with moments of excess, shock and admiration. Some of the most iconic shows include Vivienne Westwood’s 1993/94 collection, whose oversized clothing caused Naomi Campbell to take a tumble; and Dutch duo Viktor and Rolf ’s fall 1999 collection, which eschewed a traditional catwalk display in favour of a single model, Maggie Rizer, who was dressed onstage by the designers. Vogue writer Andre Leon Talley described it as “the Viagra of couture week”.

But as the fashion calendar congests, is the very concept of the fashion show in peril? Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour recently stated that, for young designers, “an interesting creative presentation is

1. Tempelhof AirporT, Berlin

Tempelhof is a giant airport that ceased operating in 2008, and whose sweeping, alabaster facade was a creation of the Nazi government. It is also home to the influential Bread and Butter fashion show. The airport acquired added legend in 1948 when, under Soviet control, Allied planes dropped thousands of tonnes of supplies in the Berlin Airlift. Today a huge public space home to skaters and barbecuers, the airport hangar is a perfect place for navel gazing (and catwalk shows).

2. SomerSeT houSe, london

Located right in the heart of London’s West End, Somerset House has hosted some of the British capital’s most elaborate shows since its conception in 1776. More recently, the neoclassical mansion has found a home on London’s cultural scene, playing host to live music concerts, modern art exhibits and, of course, London Fashion Week. Worth a visit for its grand design and pretty fountain garden, the building is a perfect place to watch models strut by.

Check out Lifestyle TV on ice for channels dedicated to fashion including Fashion One, Only Fashion Network and Videofashion.

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3. Sydney Opera HOuSe, Sydney

It’s only fitting that one of the world’s most iconic buildings should serve as one of its city’s premier style venues – if only, usually, as a backdrop to open-air shows. Next year the building, conceived by Danish architect Jørn Utzon, celebrates its 45th birthday, and it’s never been busier, hosting more than 1,500 events annually. In 2007 its shell-shaped expressionist design was designated a Unesco World Heritage site. Which, even for the fashion industry, makes for a rather exciting place to call home.

4. Grand palaiS, pariS

Paris’ Grand Palais is as much a part of its fabric as the Eiffel Tower or the Champs-Elysees, the famed street at the foot of which it sits. Inaugurated in 1900 for the Universal Expo, the glass-vaulted building has seen many uses – from war hospital to sports stadium, and is one of Paris’ leading fashion venues.

Karl Lagerfeld, creative director at Chanel, has made the Palais his fashion week home of choice in recent years, constructing casinos, an airport terminal and, for his 2010-11 fall show, a giant, gold lion. just as effective as a fashion show”, parroting a growing call for fans and professionals to swerve the catwalk in favour of more cutting-edge mediums.

Certainly shows have become more accessible as their organisers clamour for increased external audiences and advertising dollars. But today, with the advent of 360-degree filming and virtual reality, the essence of the

fashion show itself appears to be under threat.

Alexander McQueen became the first fashion designer to live-stream a show back in 2009. Technology has raced on apace since then. Balenciaga, Hussein Chalayan and Dior have all 360-degree-filmed recent shows – in Dior’s case combining it with 3D-printed glasses made available | 62 |

Vogue editor-in-chief, Anna Wintour

to viewers – and some have even questioned whether in-person shows will soon be obsolete.

“I think they are defunct in the sense of their original intention: to show bi-annual collections to a small, elite group of editors for dissemination to the masses,” says Ormerod.

“These days they are part of a brand’s marketing machine, which certainly means there’s a heightened sense of commercialisation.”

But Ormerod believes that the fashion show is still an essential part of the fashion industry – and the ability to experience fashion up close and personal is still an inimitable part of the industry. “The fashion show continues to offer a creative platform to express ideas and aspirations and nothing can ever mimic the power of a live performance – just look at the music industry and the boom in live tours,” she says.

“The attention and buzz that a fashion show can now generate on social media and the content that can be created around a show now make them worth the investment, especially as fashion is such a crowded market and it’s so difficult to get your voice heard,” Ormerod adds.

“I would think that, for any big luxury brand, the fashion show isn’t going anywhere imminently.”

20.09.2017 - 19.03.2018

SHEIKH ZAYED GRAND MOSQUE, ABU DHABI

Hilya by Hasan Rida, in jali thuluth and naskh scripts. Rida was a student of both Mehmed Sefik Bey and Kazasker Mustafa Izzet Efendi. 1323 AH, 1905/6 CE, Turkey. © HE Mohammed al-Murr Collection

Under the Patronage of His Highness Sheikh Mansour bin Zayed Al Nahyan Deputy Minister and Minister of Presidential Affairs

Essential news and information from Emirates Twice daily to Brussels

Inside Emirates

Route Map

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BRIEFING

E m i r a t E s

n E w s

EmiratEs and flydubai join forcEs

doublE daily for brussEls Emirates is to introduce an additional daily flight to Brussels in order to cater to the growing demand for travel to the Belgian capital.

The new flight will complement the airline’s existing schedule and provide a twice-daily service to customers from October 29 onward.

Emirates has carried more than half a million passengers between Dubai and Brussels since launching operations on September 5, 2014.

As well as providing choice and convenience for both Belgian customers and inbound visitors, Emirates’ operations over recent years have made a positive impact on Belgium’s tourism, trade, investment and employment. A keenness to build on its already significant economic contribution comfortably justifies the addition of a second daily service between the two cities, both to meet existing demand and to stimulate new growth.

The new year-round flight will also enhance Belgium’s global long-haul connectivity, offering passengers travelling from Brussels the chance to reach more than 70 Emirates’ destinations in the Middle East, Africa, Asia and Australasia.

Emirates and flydubai have unveiled an extensive partnership that will see the two Dubai-based airlines join forces to offer customers unrivalled travel options.

Both airlines will continue to be managed independently but will leverage each other’s network to scale up their operations and accelerate growth.

The innovative partnership goes beyond code-sharing and includes integrated network collaboration with coordinated scheduling. The new model will give flydubai customers seamless connectivity to Emirates’ worldwide destinations spanning six continents. For Emirates’ customers, it opens up flydubai’s robust regional network.

The two airlines will also further develop their hub at Dubai International, aligning their systems and operations to ensure a seamless travel experience through the ultra-modern airport.

HH Sheikh Ahmed bin Saeed Al Maktoum, Chairman and Chief Executive of Emirates Group and Chairman of flydubai, said, “This is an exciting and significant development for Emirates, flydubai and Dubai aviation. Both airlines have grown independently and successfully over the years, and this new partnership will unlock the immense value that the complementary models of both companies can bring to consumers, each airline and to Dubai.”

EnhancEd sErvicE to Khartoum Emirates has increased the frequency of flights between Dubai and Khartoum from five to seven a week.

Offering more than 700 additional seats each way per week, the two new flights will enhance connectivity from most cities in the Middle East, Asia and Americas. This includes popular cities served by Emirates’ A380s such as Kuwait, Beijing, Bangkok, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, Shanghai, Seoul, Mumbai, New York and Washington DC. “Emirates’ decision to commit two additional scheduled flights a week is a clear indication of customer demand for our award-winning products and services,” said Orhan Abbas, Emirates’ Senior Vice President, Commercial Operations Africa.

“Our expanded schedule will provide customers with greater flexibility in their travel plans and allow more options for them to connect seamlessly to other flights on Emirates’ extensive global network via | 67 |

our Dubai hub. These additional flights will also further support Sudan’s economy.”

As with Emirates’ current flights between the two cities, the new services will also operate a Boeing 777.

E m i r a t E s

n E w s

new arrivals for emirates’ fly with me collection Four new animals have joined the Emirates Fly With Me range of toys for children, including Brett the bear from North America, ChaoChao the Chinese alligator, Mia the manta ray and Savannah the elephant from sub-Saharan Africa.

Available on board now, the animals are for children up to the age of five and are featured across three product lines: the Travel Buddy, which comes with a plastic toggle allowing the toy to be hung in a car, pram or cot; the Carry Buddy, a dual purpose toy and blanket and the Magnetic Sketcher.

In addition to the Fly With Me Animals, the Lonely Planet activity bags – aimed at children aged six to 12 – have been updated too. With the themes Worldly Wonders, Foodie Planet,Timezones and Small Things, they offer fun travel content for older kids.

emirates enhances service to cairo

a380 upgrade for moscow The two daily flights between Dubai and Moscow will soon both be operated by the iconic Emirates A380.

Commencing October 1, the twicedaily Airbus A380 service will significantly boost seat capacity to and from Russia in order to meet customer demand. It will also allow multiple A380-to-A380 connections to a wide range of leisure and business destinations, including Bangkok, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong and Johannesburg, as well as Mumbai, Sydney, Auckland, Beijing and São Paulo.

Since Emirates started flying from its Dubai hub to Moscow in 2003, the airline has carried more than four million passengers on the route.

The move to the A380 will result in an increase of more than 1,000 seats per week and clearly demonstrates Emirates’ commitment to the Russian market, further supporting tourism and trade links between the Middle East and countries connected by the vast Emirates worldwide route network to Russia. | 68 |

Emirates is to increase capacity on its services to Egypt with the launch of four additional scheduled flights every week to Cairo.

The move will increase the number of flights between the two cities to three per day and take the total number of weekly Emirates flights serving Cairo to 21.The new flights will commence from October 29.

“Emirates is committed to offering customers more flight choices, which will enable them to seamlessly connect to points across the Middle East, Asia, the Americas, Africa and Australia – including Bahrain, Muscat, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Hong Kong, New York, San Francisco, Cape Town, Entebbe, Melbourne and Sydney – while experiencing the most comfortable and entertaining experience in the sky,” said Orhan Abbas, Emirates’ Senior Vice President Commercial Operations Africa.

“We will continue to invest in Egypt, empowering the local economy and helping it expand its business and tourism presence.”

The new flights will be operated by a 360-seat Boeing 777-300ER in a threeclass configuration.

A collection of inspirational quotes from

Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan a man who fought for unity, preached equality and transformed the UAE.

‘I had many dreams. I dreamt of our land keeping pace with the growth of the modern world.’

– S H E I K H Z AY E D B I N S U LTA N A L N A H YA N

ava i l a b l e i n a l l m a j o r b o o k s t o r e s a n d at b o o k s a r a b i a . c o m

# Fat h e r O f O u r N at i o n

I N S I D E

E M I R A T E S

RAISE A GLASS Here’s why Emirates’ newly revamped Onboard Lounge is the most popular place at 40,000ft

GO BEHIND THE BAR

The numbers that go into the Emirates Onboard Lounge...

48

Number of A380 destinations | 70 |

6,000+

Trained Emirates bartenders

1,300 PARTS Make up the A380 Onboard Lounge

I n s I d e

e m I r a t e s

the iconic emirates a380 14

Cocktail recipes to choose from

6

Different wines on offer

Celebrating nine years of Emirates’ first commercial A380 service

80m Passengers flown

91,500

Round trip flights

14,193km Longest flight from Dubai to Auckland

18

Different bar snacks are served

26

Guests can enjoy the Lounge at any one time

US$3m+ A380 Onboard Lounge costs

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1,500+ A380 pilots

23,000+

A380 cabin crew

D e s t i n a t i o n

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D E S T I N A T I O N

MOSCOW Starting October 1, Emirates will add a second daily A380 service to Moscow, so enjoy our guide to Russia’s cosmopolitan capital Moscow has become one of Europe’s most vibrant cities in the postPerestroika era. Red Square, the Kremlin, Lenin’s tomb – it’s easy to be swept away by the sheer scale of Russia’s capital city.

It’s a city that lives and breathes history. Medieval churches mingle with Soviet skyscrapers and all the architectural and artistic reminders of a turbulent and dramatic past.

There’s the home of Maxim Gorky, one of the Soviet era’s most important authors; the Museum of the Great Patriotic War, which celebrates the defeat of Germany in 1945 and the icon of Russia itself, St Basil’s Cathedral, situated at the southern end of Red Square.

It’s hard to overestimate the importance of the Kremlin and Red

Square to Russia, both spiritually and geographically. Then there are the remains of the Soviet Union, which are sprinkled throughout the city. Some are majestic, such as the city’s metro, which is arguably the world’s most beautiful underground rail network – more art gallery than public transit system.

Whichever way you look at it, Moscow is a brash and brilliant city and home to some of the most memorable sights in global tourism.

It is also a sprawling metropolis of more than 10 million people, with restaurants, bars and nightclubs – particularly on the strip from Tverskaya to Okhotny Ryad – providing evening entertainment that sits well alongside cultural icons such as the Bolshoi Theatre.

EAT

STAY

DO

CAFE PUSHKIN Housed in a Baroque mansion on Tverskoy Boulevard, Cafe Pushkin is something to behold. Overseen by head chef Andrei Makhov, it specialises in meat pies and dumplings in the grandest of surroundings. Try the salmon and zander pie served with sour cream sauce just to see what you’ve been missing out on. cafe-pushkin.ru

HOTEL METROPOL You’d be hard pushed to find a better location. Situated opposite Red Square and a stone’s throw from the Bolshoi, it’s all about old Russia at the Metropol.

Built between 1899 and 1907 in an Art Nouveau style, it has historically been a haunt for kings and queens and oozes both tradition and grandeur. metropol-moscow.ru

TRETYAKOV GALLERY The main museum of Russian national art, the Tretyakov Gallery is a rumination on the country’s contribution to world culture.

Housing everything from the works of old masters such as Ilya Repin to priceless religious icons, it was founded by industrialist Pavel Tretyakov in 1856 and houses the greatest collection of Russian fine art in the world. tretyakovgallery.ru

BOLSHOI The brainchild of Russian restauranteur Arkady Novikov, the Bolshoi restaurant serves modern Slavonic food in an environment that shouts opulence. Situated on the southwest corner of Kuznetsky Most and Petrovka, not far from the Bolshoi Theatre and the cultural highlights of Moscow, it’s an elegant, if pricey, experience. novikovgroup.ru

ARARAT PARK HYATT Just a few minutes’ walk from many of Moscow’s iconic landmarks is this stylish hotel renowned for its Armenianthemed restaurant and glorious rooftop views of central Moscow. With the Bolshoi Theatre across the road and suites designed by New York architect Tony Chi, it’s a contemporary gem. moscow.park.hyatt.com

ST BASIL’S CATHEDRAL The building most synonymous with Russia, no trip to Moscow would be complete without a trip around striking St Basil’s Cathedral. With its recently restored onion domes and kaleidoscope of colours, patterns and shapes, it’s a masterpiece of Russian architecture and a potent symbol of the country’s past and present. +7 495 698 33 04

GRAND CAFE DR ZHIVAGO Described as affordable luxury dining with views of the Kremlin, this relatively new establishment from restaurateur Alexander Rappoport is situated on the ground floor of the grand Hotel National. Featuring gastronomic references to the different stages of Russian history, expect Georgian-style fried chicken and quail with porcini mushrooms. drzhivago.ru

HILTON MOSCOW LENINGRADSKAYA This stunning fusion of Russian Baroque and Orthodox architecture is situated in one of Moscow’s Seven Sisters, iconic Stalinist high-rises on the skyline. Built in 1954 as a Soviet hotel, it offers easy access to Red Square and the Kremlin. Expect contemporary luxury and majestic grandeur. hilton.com

OLD ARBAT Found in the the historic centre of Moscow, Arbat Street is one of the city’s oldest areas and is now a cobbled pedestrian precinct lined with shops and cafes. Dating back to the 16th century, it might be a bit touristy but as a Muscovite favourite that’s frequently filled with portrait artists, poets and musicians, it’s well worth the visit.

The twice-daily Airbus A380 service begins on October 1 and allows multiple A380-to-A380 connections to a wide range of destinations such as Mauritius, Bangkok, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong, Johannesburg, Mumbai, Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Perth, Auckland, Christchurch and São Paulo.

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C O M F O R T

COMFORT IN THE AIR To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips.

Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time onboard with Emirates today.

SMART TRAVELLER

DRINK PLENTY OF WATER Rehydrate with water or juices frequently. Drink tea and coffee in moderation.

TRAVEL LIGHTLY

WEAR GLASSES

USE SKIN MOISTURISER

KEEP MOVING

Carry only the essential items that you will need during your flight.

Cabin air is drier than normal, therefore swap your contact lenses for glasses.

Apply a good quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.

Exercise your lower legs and calf muscles.

This encourages blood flow.

BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition.

Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications?

Get a good night’s rest before the flight.

Eat lightly and sensibly.

AT THE AIRPORT

MAKE YOURSELF COMFORTABLE Loosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body.

DURING THE FLIGHT

Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in.

Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress.

Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

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Chewing and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent.

Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy.

Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently.

Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

SHARPS BOXES Sharps boxes are available onboard all Emirates flights for safe disposal of medical equipment. Please ask a member of your cabin crew for more information.

WHEN YOU ARRIVE Try some light exercise or read if you can’t sleep after arrival.

Concentrate on your wellbeing.

Not ours.

A Valiant Life is a philosophy.

It is about taking control and making the most of every minute. Our preventive health services help you work towards a better you.

We want to see you out enjoying life with no time wasted. From Physiotherapy, Sports Medicine and Orthopedics to Endocrinology, Wellness and more, Valiant Clinic provides a complete array of integrated healthcare services, to ensure you spend more time with loved ones, and less time with us.

For a consultation, call 800 VALIANT (8254268)* or visit valiantclinic.com The future of healthcare, today. Now open at CITY WALK.

*within UAE

MOH#UK08153

c u s t o m s

&

v i s a

i n f o r m a t i o n

Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle-free as possible.

CUSToMS DECLARATIoN FoRM All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

ElEctronic SyStEm for travEl authoriSation (ESta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Program, you must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure.

ESta factS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending.

A successful ESTA application is valid for two years. However, this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport. apply onlinE at www.cbp.gov/ESta nationalitiES EligiblE for thE viSa waivEr*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom** * SubjEct to changE ** only britiSh citizEnS qualify undEr thE viSa waivEr program. | 76 |

CORPORATE & COMMERCIAL LEGAL SERVICES LITIGATION, ARBITRATION & ADR BUSINESS SETUP & COMPANY REGISTRATION OFFSHORE & FREE ZONE COMPANY FORMATION INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY & E-COMMERCE LAWS BANKING, INSURANCE & MARITIME LAWS REAL ESTATE & CONSTRUCTION LAWS MEDICAL NEGLIGENCE DRAFTING & CONTRACT REVIEWS LEGAL TRANSLATION DEBT COLLECTION TRADEMARK & PATENT REGISTRATION PROTECTION & ENFORCEMENT

DUBAI

EMIRATES TOWERS 14th Floor, Sheikh Zayed Road P.O. Box: 9055, Dubai-UAE T+971 4 330 43 43 F +971 4 330 39 39

ABU DHABI

JABEL ALI

SHARJAH

INTERNET CITY

TEL: +971 2 639 44 46 auh@emiratesadvocates.com TEL: +971 6 572 86 66 shj@emiratesadvocates.com

TEL: +971 4 887 16 79 jafz@emiratesadvocates.com TEL: +971 4 390 08 20 dic@emiratesadvocates.com

RAS AL KHAIMAH

TEL: +971 7 204 67 19 rak@emiratesadvocates.com

UAE | SAUDI ARABIA | QATAR | BAHRAIN | KUWAIT | OMAN

c u s t o m s

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v i s a

i n f o r m a t i o n

Cut the queue at JFK with quiCK ConneCt If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service. The US Customs and Border Protection agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.

Follow TheSe STePS:

1

2

3

4

have your boarding card or ticket for your connecting flight ready for the ground staff as you exit.

You’ll be given a Quick Connect card. Continue to the Quick Connect queue in the Arrivals hall.

After passport clearance, claim your baggage and clear US customs, regardless of your final destination.

If your bag is tagged to your final destination, hand it to emirates staff at the transfer counter for your onward flight.

quarantine in australia Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card.

You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left onboard. Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.

quarantine in Japan Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items.

You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if: • you have recently been to a livestock farm • are bringing livestock products into Japan • your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock The counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer. | 78 |

U A E

S M A R T

G A T E

BE SMART! USE UAE SMART GATE AT DUBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES

UAE

Andorra

Australia

Austria

Bahrain

Belgium

Brunei

Canada

Denmark

Finland

France

Germany

Greece

Iceland

Ireland

Italy

Japan

Kuwait

Liechtenstein

Luxembourg

Malaysia

Monaco

Netherlands

New Zealand

Norway

Oman

Portugal

Qatar

San Marino

Saudi Arabia

Singapore

South Korea

Spain

Sweden

Switzerland

*UK

USA

GO THROUGH IMMIGRATION IN SECONDS AND GET YOUR VISIT TO DUBAI OFF TO A FLYING START Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International by using UAE Smart Gate.

If you hold a machine-readable passport, an E-Gate card or Emirates ID card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds.

Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International Airport.

USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

1

Have your machine-readable passport, E-Gate card or Emirates ID card ready to be scanned

2

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, place your E-Gate card or Emirates ID card into the card slot

OK!

3

Go through the open gate, stand in the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan.

When finished, the next set of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer. That’s it! Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you landed.

IF YOU’RE A UAE RESIDENT Remember to bring your Emirates ID card next time you’re travelling through DXB – you’ll be able to speed through passport control in a matter of seconds, without paying and without registering. Valid at all Smart Gates, located in Arrivals and Departures across all three terminals at DXB. | 80 |

*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY:

• Machine-readable passports from the above countries • E-Gate cards • Emirates ID cards

AMERICAN HOSPITAL DUBAI PLASTIC, RECONSTRUCTIVE AND COSMETIC SURGERY

LOOK BETTER, FEEL BETTER, BE BETTER.

American Hospital Dubai’s new Plastic Surgery Department thrives on the same high standards as the hospital and prides itself on integrity, quality and safety.

We offer a comprehensive plastic, reconstructive, and cosmetic surgery services: •

Hand Surgery (Trauma & Elective)

•

Burn Repair Surgery

•

Breast Reconstruction (following mastectomy)

•

Skin Cancer Management

•

Cosmetic Surgery (Body, Breast, & Face)

To book an appointment, please call +971 4 377 5500 or visit w w w.ahdubai.com

American Hospital Dubai accepts most major health insurance plans, please call (+971) 800 - 5500

MOHAP – AT35647 – 28/10/2017

Please visit our website for the complete list of procedures

R O U T E

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M A P

R O U T E

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M A P

*SUSPENDED

R O U T E

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M A P

R O U T E

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M A P

F L E E T

EMIRATES FLEET

Our fleet of 265 aircraft includes 251 passenger aircraft and 14 SkyCargo aircraft

AIRBUS A380-800 2500+ 19% All Emirates A380 aircraft are fitted with Wi-Fi, Mobile Phone and Data Roaming services. A total of 19 (19 per cent) of the A380s are now equipped with Live Television, with more coming soon.

98 in fleet. Up to 489-615 passengers. Range of 15,000km. L 72.7m x W 79.8m

BOEING 777-300ER up to

2500+ 77% 105 (77 per cent) of Emirates Boeing 777300ERs are equipped with Live Television, Wi-Fi, Mobile Phone and Data Roaming services, with more coming soon.

136 in fleet. Up to 354-442 passengers. Range of 14,594km. L 73.9m x W 64.8m

BOEING 777-200LR 2500+

10 in fleet. Up to 266 passengers. Range of 17,446km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m

EMIRATES SKYCARGO

BOEING 777F

The most environmentally friendly freighter operated today, with the lowest fuel burn of any comparably-sized cargo aircraft. Along with its wide main-deck cargo door which can accommodate oversized consignments, it is also capable of carrying up to 103 tonnes of cargo non-stop on 10-hour sector lengths.

13 in fleet. Range of 9,260km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m

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F L E E T

CONNECTIVITY AND ENTERTAINMENT SERVICES AVAILABLE

# Live Television

Wi-Fi

Mobile Phone GSM

Data Roaming GPRS

Channels of in-flight entertainment

BOEING 777-300 1500+

6 in fleet. Up to 364 passengers. Range of 11,029km. L 73.9m x W 60.9m

AIRBUS A319 550+

1 in fleet. Up to 19 passengers. Range of 7,000km. L 33.84m x W 34.1m

The Emirates Executive Private Jet takes our exceptional service to the highest level to fly you personally around the world. Fly up to 19 guests in the utmost comfort of our customised A319 aircraft with the flexibility of private jet travel. Further information at emirates-executive.com

EMIRATES SKYCARGO

BOEING 747 ERF

This aircraft is capable of carrying up to 117 tonnes. The deckside cargo door, with a height of approximately three metres, allows the uplift of oversized shipments that cannot be accommodated in the belly-hold of passenger aircraft. The nose door allows the carriage of long pieces.

1 in fleet. Range of 9,204km. L 70.6m x W 64.4m For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet

Aircraft numbers accurate at the time of going to press

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s t r e e t

k n o w l e d g e

the Guide

The perfecT day in MuMbai?

Perhaps start your day at Chor Bazaar, which is a big tourist attraction and one of the most legendary markets in the city.

Then head over to the famous Gateway of India before dinner and drinks in the Colaba area in the evening. you’ll need a day To explore The MuseuMs and galleries The National Gallery of Modern Art and the Jehangir Art Gallery are the most famous in the city and have some very cool exhibitions throughout the year.

i Think our nighTlife will surprise you If you head to the Colaba area there are so many places to choose at night. I really think first-time visitors will be amazed at how cool the area is. recovery The nexT day is easy When I’m in Mumbai I always drink so much coconut water as they’re readily available and always so fresh. Then go for a breakfast of fresh fruit because India has some of the most exotic and delicious fruit in the world. Now you have put goodness back into your body, take yourself to

the Four Seasons Spa in Mumbai and book in for a traditional Indian massage.

You really won’t regret it.

outside New York. I love pizza and while my metabolism is still strong, I intend to take advantage of it.

MuMbai is known for iTs greaT sTreeT food I love chicken biryani – actually, I love any biryani.

You can get it absolutely everywhere but be brave and try a street food vendor – the flavours will be amazing.

if you’re looking for a faMily day The Elephanta Caves on Elephanta Island are cool.You need to take a boat to get there but it’s a great day out.

ok, so iT’s noT indian food But I love the Oliver Bar and Kitchen – they do some of the best pizzas I have tasted

Emirates offers five daily flights to Mumbai, including a daily A380 service.

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if you can only do one Thing in MuMbai...

Visit the Gateway of India. It is such a beautiful landmark.

But I would suggest seeing it during both the day and night as it can look very different.

Words: EMMA CoILEr; ILLustrAtIon: rouI frAnCIsCo

If you’re going to Mumbai, best take advice from someone in the know. We asked actress, singer and former Miss World Priyanka Chopra for her highlights