NETSU

Is this a Japanese feast worth maki-ng a trip for?

It’s safe to say that Dubai has fine dining Japanese cuisine well covered. But where Netsu sets itself apart from its contemporaries is with its focus on the traditional straw fire cooking on the Warayaki grill, sitting at the heart of the restaurant’s central glass-walled kitchen. This provides the basis for Netsu’s brunch menu, served over a threehour sitting every Saturday afternoon.

In the cooler months, the pool adjacent terrace is a lovely spot to enjoy brunch alfresco, but we’re happy sitting kitchen-side indoors. In the triple height restaurant, sleek woods and industrial metals are interrupted by warm shades of orange and bright artworks creating an environment that feels modern and masculine. We open the menu and are instantly impressed by the structure and overall selection.

The first round is a collection of sharing starters, and we begin with deliciously smooth wagyu beef gyozas, dipping each in a sweet ponzu. It’s presented alongside a tuna tataki that’s got an unusually smoky aftertaste that can be accredited to the Warayaki. It’s unexpected, but we like it.

In more familiar territory, chunks of eggplant are served in a sweet miso, while a pair of crunchy salmon tacos are packed with diced raw fish, avocado and high-impact spicy sauce.

As we move to the next course, a platter of sushi and sashimi arrives on a bed of crushed ice, bubbling dry ice spilling over the table for added drama. But our minds are elsewhere as the sushi chef has set up a roving makeshift station, expertly rolling, stuffing and scorching super-sized maki rolls with spicy tuna and avocado. We’re given one each, then on to the next table he goes, without returning, sadly

From the extensive cocktail array, the Japanese margarita and fragrant melon cosmopolitan, should be applauded.

For main courses, we pick one dish each: I go for the grilled giant tiger prawn. My guest picks the ribeye, both are expertly cooked and arrive with a side of waryaki-grilled potato topped with spring onion and nori. We’re suitably stuffed by this point, so when a bowl of spicy stone rice arrives, packed with veg, we struggle to eat much more than a mouthful or two. It may be better brought out with the rest of the mains, we reflect.

Finally, an impressive dessert platter lands, with fresh fruit, mochi, a gooey chocolate fondant and cinnamon ice cream. It’s light and refreshing, with just a little hint of naughty.

Netsu, Mandarin Oriental Jumeira, Dubai, 12.30pm to 3.30pm, Saturdays, Dhs450. Tel: (0)4 777 2232, mandarinoriental.com

WHAT’S ON VERDICT

This is a foodie feast that hits almost all the right notes.