MYTHOS URBAN EATERY

The latest chapter of a popular Greek saga

Rather appropriately for its name, the original JLT location of Mythos Kouzina & Grill (which opened in 2015) enjoys something of a mythic reputation in Dubai. Built on Parthenon pillars of authentic Ionian cuisine, intuitively assembled sharing options, and doing all of that with – the unlikely plot twist in the story –deliciously fair pricing.

Precisely because of this cachet, an empire always seemed likely, but we had to wait until 2023 before one dropped. You’ll find the latest edition, Mythos Urban Eatery on The Square – an alfresco courtyard tucked to one side of City Walk.

Entry is made through the garden area, and from there it is immediately clear that the design muses have been engaged in Heraclean level labours. We stroll under timber beams, serpentine vines, past earth-tinted pots and through the perfumes of a balmy European night. Inside, the modern taverna style of Mythos: Chapter One has been echoed, expanded, and evolved. It’s minimalistic, organic, and impressively starved of free tables for an idle Tuesday night.

The core tenements of Mythos philosophy are clearly visible on the menu. Everything, including the mains, lends itself to sharing. Our own odyssey begins with dips – creamy dollops of taramasalata (Dhs35) and tzatziki (Dhs30) served with charcoal fired pita (Dhs8). It’s the Medusa effect. So charmed are we by these expertly spun elements of Athenian tapas, we have to talk ourselves down from ordering more bread and imperiling onward progress.

Instead we consult the oracle, our server, on what to order next. He stoically counsels on behalf of a vintage from their Greek wine collection, alongside plates of padron peppers (Dhs38), keftedakia (lamb and beef meatballs, Dhs52), crispy baby marrow (Dhs28), mountain salad (Dhs41), grilled calamari (Dhs52), and grilled octopus (Dhs95).

An Olympic pantheon of plates with epicurean joy to be unearthed in each one. The meatballs are a Minoan labyrinth of herby flavour; the calamari – grilled and unbreaded, an unfettered masterpiece –prepared with Chronos-tier attention to timing. Though retired to a supporting role, the padron peppers with their vinegar and garlic drizzle make for a fiery side quest.

To explore the mythology further we take plates of chicken souvlaki (Dhs71), lamb chops (Dhs155), and octopus stifado (Dhs170).

WHAT’S ON VERDICT

If there’s a moral to this Mythos it’s that heroic food can be unpretentious, it should be shared unselfishly and forever warmly remembered.

We find that octopus provides a powerful algebraic equation for comparing restaurants on a relative scale, it’s incredibly easy to over or undercook. Here at Mythos, the furling tendrils are buttery and tender, it’s a Kraken most expertly tamed. The lamb chops are a Trojan horse of masterfully marinated meat; and the chicken skewers come dusted with Mediterranean herbs, impossibly crispy fries and a ferocious nostalgic jab of “take me back to Mykonos”. The idea of tackling dessert feels like a Sisyphean (the man sentenced to eternal uphill boulder pushing) task. And must remain a pleasure deferred for our next voyage. Because as the oracle predicted, we will of course be back. The Square, City Walk. Sun to Thu, 12.30pm to midnight. Fri and Sat, 12.30pm to 1am. Tel:(0)4 225 3313. mythosdubai.com

SHOP // DOMESTIC BLISS

Words: Tamara Wright

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