Moorish Lands by MotoXplorers

MOORISH LANDS by

Urban Explorer Exploring each city, town or fortress: renascence, roman, medieval or simply modern: you choose; there is one on every color and for everyone’s taste.

This magazine is a MotoXplorers edition.

TEXT José Bragança Pinheiro PHOTOS Nélia Sofia Carvalho; José Bragança Pinheiro DESIGN Personal Motographic August 2011, English edition

It is also about riding Why doing this on a motorcycle?

One in a Million Special places

Iberian lifestyle Each culture is made of fine details, grown in the day-by -day interactions, found in people’s expressions

Something special Every journey has a handfull of occasions which left us a mark.

Going somewhere? If you’re up for such a decision give yourself a moment to take our humble advices.

MOORISH LANDS by

Travelling through Latin countries has a soul of its own. People are bound to human contact, in a warm and friendly way. This is special in the sense that it gives you ground to grow your adventures and encounters. As any good voyage, you find yourself amidst good roads and stories to go around. Most of the selected places are one of a kind and, as many references throughout this tale will tell you, food has life. Don’t worry: they usually cook it first. From the top of a motorcycle, a new perspective is gained. Senses are activated more often and spaces just seem bigger, wider. You end up craving for the next bend and not

even that threatening and rare cloud up in the sky scares you. In a single package, made of 1700 miles route lasting a week, mixing such a blend of World Heritage locations and Natural Parks, would be a challenge elsewhere. That’s what is so great about Europe. As a result, one is usually forced to exercise difficult choices. But Portugal and Spain are not only made of great names and families’ coats of arms. You have to experience the white and clean villages in Alentejo, the fields in La Mancha, the Albaycin’s narrow cobbled streets in Granada or even on each tree of Gredos mountainside.

Looking back, we wish this was not the Moorish Route: it should be only ours with our name printed on it. As I say it out loud, shame falls upon me. Perhaps this sharing is not but a desperate attempt for redemption



Portugal and Spain are explorer nations. You can almost feel the presence of those ancient sailors as you navigate their historical and walled cities.

urban explorer

MAIN Roman temple of Diana in Évora. BOTTOM LEFT Largo do Marquês de Marialva and Sé de Évora in background. BOTTOM RIGHT MotoXplorers with a background of Diana’s temple

The first Sun rays are starting to show. Nobody is in sight. Up ahead, the temple of Diana, roman Hunt Goddess, is once more sculpted by this slanted light, and new textures are born as shadows flee, on a daily routine familiar to it. Finally the nearby kiosk opens and, as they remove the chains around the terrace chairs, we order a strong coffee.

We fear this might be the last one for the upcoming days; Portuguese drink coffee as if it was powder or pen ink: black and strong; Spanish do not. As we head for Monsaraz, the Great Alqueva dam grows upon us. But only after climbing up the castle, we grasp the real dimension of it.

TOP LEFT View from Monsaraz castle BOTTOM LEFT Door detail along Monsaraz streets CENTER TOP Evora’s roman temple of Diana BOTTOM CENTER Monsaraz’s main street TOP RIGHT Travessa da Cisterna in Monsaraz BOTTOM RIGHT Monsaraz’s Church square

Cars, and even motorcycles, are kept outside the walled city. Inside city walls, white and clean houses align themselves; the sense of inner peace strikes you for the first time in this voyage. But it won’t be long before the laziest guests of Monsaraz start to show up. We take these brief minutes to photograph our best , as the light is working on our favor

Ă&#x2030;vora

Sevilla

The Giralda Tower and the Catedral are the lead performers in this screenplay, among a fairly exceptional cast. At night, the tower seems to point out to the sky, reminding everyone that Faith can move mountains. Not far, Alcazar hides behind its high and thick walls.

Sevilla covers its wider streets and plazas with huge cloths. The aim is to cerate enough shadows to better deal with the hard Sun and heat characteristic of Andaluzia. On each esplanade, the image of a fish stand is brought to us. This is mainly due to the water sprays that also desperately try to freshen the air.

LEFT Giralda, Sevilla’s Cathedral Tower lighted by night TOP LEFT Staircase near the Cathedral TOP RIGHT Exterior detail of the Cathedral BOTTOM Suspended cloths over the streets, and esplanades with fresh water sprinklers

As for Calle Mateos Gago in Bairro de Santa Cruz, it was once known as Borceguineria, named after the Borceguis’ makers. This is a sandal with straps that go up and around the leg, much like romans used. But today this is the street of the moment where to eat and lounge outdoor. Our recommendation goes for Café Bar las Teresas and Bodega Belmonte for tapas and drinks. Before leaving the Hotel for the night stroll around the city, it’s best to make reservations for a flamengo show; but not just any show – choose Casa de la Memoria Andalus, avoiding the less genuine and more touristic tablaos 

Formerly known as Arunda, this small city grew over a volcanic plateau.. The same fire that burst from the belly of that volcano might have given birth to the worldwide spectacle called Tourada, or Bullfight. This is where you’ll find the more ancient of all bullfight arenas still working as such since 1785.. You should choose comfortable shoes and set yourself for a walk On the west part of the city, starts a steep descent through a stairway. It ends on the

bottom of the plateau, where a fantastic view of the Puente Nuevo (“New Bridge”) is best enjoyed close to sunset for an unforgettable scenario, in a blend of the bridge’s orange and the white houses perched on the top. The small town is ideal to continue walking along the ridge, using the Ernest Hemingway line of miradores. Feeling tired? Drop in one of the public park benches overviewing the entire valley, and melt while the Sun farewells. Don’t like public benches? Hang around the cafeteria in the privileged Parador.

MAIN Houses bathing in the last Sun rays for the day LEFT 1953 Bullfight billboard TOP RIGHT View of Puente Nuevo as seen from our dinner table on the balcony of Albacara restaurant RIGHT CENTER Puente Nuevo at dawn BOTTOM RIGHT Ronda skyscape as it waives goodbye to the Sun for today

Ronda Dining overlooking both the bridge and the last sun rays bursting behind the horizon is possible from Restaurante Albacara. Go early or book ahead for the balcony, and enjoy a bottle of Acinipo local red wine. Close your eyes to taste the first sip of it, but be prepared for when you open them again, the bridge lights might be lighting up, setting a new show just for your benefit, it seemsď&#x20AC;ź

Loud food “Una de Sesos!”, yells the bartender across the balcon to the kitchen. As it was explained to us, it should be something involving eating brains. Yeap, that’s right: brains.

Even so, we’ve order it, mostly due to a nostalgic image I fed from my childhood.We ended up not eating it as , let’s just say, that the texture was odd. So we order also fried Aubergines and were entitled for free Tortitas de Gambas (prawns), all of this flushed down with Tinto de Verano (similar to Sangria). In Calle de los Reyes Católicos, Los Manueles place is a part of spanish culture around loud food. It ain’t Fast, because you eat it slowly between so many conversations, the real purpose of this national passtime. The food is yelled, from the moment you order it standing in the middle of the crowd, up until the high volume conversations are held, not forgetting all interactions among the staff as well.

Put it like this: if this food had ears, it would be deaf by now. The next day, at Los Diamantes, we screamed for some fried mackerels and asked for cockles from the top of our lungs.

Granada Strating to loose our voice, we ended up just pointing to the dish our neighbour was having, with some hot (fried) shrimps. In a city with such a strong influence from arabic culture, we were seduced by the Arab Public Baths; we chose Aljibe de San Miguel (see “Something special”) where our voice recovered from the mint tea. The daylight ends with us

stretching our legs in the esplanade of La Taberna de Tiacheta, next to the Darro river, running beneath Puente de Cabrera, nonchalant to our hunger. Strangely enough we managed to order a board of cold meats and cheese, using an unusual low tone of voice.

TOP LEFT Albaycín’s alleys and staircases

For dinner we return to louder environments and, screaming as high as we can, order avocato salmon and one unbelievable Tortilla de patatas y anchovas and some sangria at Bodega Antigua Castañeda

TOP CENTER BOTTOM Alhambra is the subject of all cameras, particularly from San Nicolás belvedere.

Don’t hesitate to explore Granada by foot. Dive in Albaycin barrio and prepare for a good climbing, in narrow stairs and plazas overlooking Alhambra. There, the night visits to Palacios Nazaries continue 

TOP LEFT CENTER Selling Spanish castanholas in a public bench in Mirador de San Nicolás TOP CENTER RIGHT Early morning riverside before strolling in Albaycín

TOP RIGHT Alhambra footpath from the city BOTTOM LEFT It is a daily challenge to overcome the alleys and steep climbs of Albaycín BOTTOM CENTERT Alcaicería is an open air sales street BOTTOM RIGHT Granada Cathedral from the Plaza de las Pasiegas

We are not going to say Toledo is the city of Three Cultures. Not even that the Tagus River bathes it. Or that its steel and metal works are world renowned. But, you all know it’s true. On foot Walking the Senda Ecológica, between San Martin and Alcantara bridges, is better done during the fresher hours of the day. If you do it at the end of the day, it’s best in the direction of Alcantara bridge. Early morning, do it the opposite way.

Riding When riding, one shouldn´t miss the bends and views along Cintura de Circunvalacion, with a mandatory stop in Kiosko Base. Its esplanade is a natural belvedere over the cityscape.

TOP LEFT Toledo’s Cathedral with two happy faces. TOP CENTER Night view over Toledo from Ermita del Valle, along Cintura de Circunvalacion CENTER LEFT Cervantes posing at Arco de la Sangre CENTER RIGHT Cathedral Tower BASE + TOP RIGHT + BASE RIGHT Toledo’s view from El Kiosko RIGHT Toledo’s streets near Cathedral and Jewish Quarter

Toledo

Eating Toledo streets are better enjoyed walking. Some of them you are permitted to ride. If you feel like pausing, visit Adolfo, in Núncio Viejo, and indulge yourself with a torta de Queso Manchego (Goat or Sheep’s milk cheese), and a good glass of Syrah Finca Antigua or a fine red wine Plancha. From the minute you arrive to Toledo’s Parador it’s obvious the view is privileged. But it doesn’t stop there; try the bar service by asking the bocadillo de Atún y Pimientos Rojos: full proof.

Toledo’s Cathedral is no secret, surrounded by most of the attractive points in the city. As it may comes as no surprise, that’s where you’ll find most of the people movement. Inside this monument the Choir and the Main Chapel are both overwhelming, almost awkward. Find the Vestry where some of El Greco and Caravaggio paintings are, among others. The Jewish Quarter in the West side near San Martin, is full of pearls namely Museo Sefardi.

Late breakfast? We are suckers for middle-morning second breakfasts. café Nhac-Nhac in Praça Zocodover (don’t misjudge it by its name) serves tostadas con aceite de oliva, with a café con leche; near San Martin Bridge the humble Venta de San Martin adds a churro and the best view over the bridge

TOPLEFT Caixa Fórum inner staircase TOP RIGHT Not even the walls of Museo Reina Sofia can keep its sculptures inside doors BASE LEFT Cristal Palace in two details BASE RIGHT Madrid Archangel

Arriving early to Madrid allows us to leave all luggage and motorcycle in the Hotel. We grab a free map at the reception and depart for discovering the city, walking. The Plaza de España is the start, followed by Gran Via. This avenue is full of charming cafes and tapas lairs. In an esplanade facing Puertas del Sol we rest just drinking the city’s movement. Plaza Mayor does the honors for ending the day, with its small and narrows streets.

Culture If you are into art, Madrid has some of the finest museums in Spain, for sure, and of all Europe. Draw on the map the triangle made of Museo de Prado, Reina Sofia galleries and the Thyssen Museum. On each of these famous masters’ paintings, such as Picasso, Miró, Degas or Renoir, await us.

Eating If trying paellas is on your To-Do list, St. James restaurant should deserve a huge pin on your Madrid city map. Actually, you’ll need, not one, but three pins as success led to expansionist tendencies from Señor St.James. Get ready to spend around 50 Euros each, and to leave after a good red Spanish wine, some entrées and a lot of paella.

Madrid

Lisboa

TOP LEFT Infante D. Henrique leader of men in Padrão de Descobrimentos TOP CENTER 1 Torre de Belém detail TOP CENTER 2 25 de Abril bridge over Tagus river, as seen from Praça do Império TOP RIGHT Jerónimos Monastery MAIN Torre de Belém by the end of the day BOTTOM RIGHT Jerónimos Monastery detail BOTTOM Lisbon is the arrival and departure of many vessels

If this journey was a competition, the trophy would be this one, right in front of me. Inside a small white cardboard tube, six wonders transpire. They’re made of cream; they are Portuguese. They call it Pastel de Nata. I call it Heaven. Ashamed, I’ve eaten one after the other, eagerly. Gluttony took the best out of me, as I look around to found amazement and desire in others eyes. Too late, I’m afraid, as from the last one only crumbles remain on my lap. As I wander, stealing snapshots with my camera in Belém’s Tower and Jerónimos Monastery, I struggle to expel the thought of it. I end up, powerless, running towards that magic little store, coated in blue and white tiles. I even asked for the price of a whole tray, as they passed by, still smoking. Don’t get me wrong; lunch was fantastic. A grilled fish, simple with salt, over a coal fire, served with tomato and onion salad. A nice Portuguese red wine has even won the title of best of the journey. During the evening, Lisbon presents plenty of choices; Fado in Alfama? head dive into shopping in Chiado? Get the yellow electric car number 15 and find the best seat in town: by the window

it is

about riding also

Much more then to connect the dots in the map, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s about the journey; feeling the wind on your face and savour each corner and road stretch.

LEFT Through the streets of Marvão UPPER RIGHT Temple of Diana, roman goddess of War, in Évora LOWER RIGHT 1 Near the Burguillo dam, just North of El Tiemblo LOWER RIGHT 2 Under the impressing cross of Los Caídos monument

The references of a certain Knight who lost his marbles, are abundant. So I get inspired and allow me to go insane, when I decide to find a better parking spot for the bike. We are in Campo de Criptana. Riding the motorcycle I choose to go down that narrow street, just to see where does it go. I figured that, sooner or later, another small alley would allow me to return up, climbing back to the restaurant. After a while I end up in a very step and narrow cobbled descent. Standing in front of me, a ladder. After those two large, very large, garbage bins block the exit. I am in an alley, one of those without exit, as the sign -I didn’t saw- warned back there. By foot I recognise my options: push the 300kg bike up the street seemed a harsh task and a U-turn would drive me senseless. The decision is obvious: down we go, then. I strain a muscle pushing the bins just enough to fit a large motorbike.

When finally returning to the restaurant table, I’m unable to disguise the smile. Between two bites of tortilla de patata and a sip of sangria, we end up laughing as I remind the episode. It’s pointless to explain why travelling by bike is so different from a car trip: for those who know the feeling it’s obvious and all others who never did it, you can’t explain it to them properly. Most of the advantages are felt, not explained. Others, are so evident that mentioning them would seem trivial. You already know a bike is smaller then a car, as any large primate do. But you only get to grasp this when we feel the need to zig-zag through the streets maze some walled cities draw to you. Its almost like a warm and comfortable hug, standing beneath a secular arch ou between high and thick walls that fought wars and guarded villagers from worst fates.

Cities are living beings. Riding involves us and we become part of it. And travel is all about that 23

Marvão and Belver

1.500 miles and nine days For over a week period, we were promised good roads and selected destinations. The kind you don’t want to miss out and refuse to leave so soon.

Marvão e Belver are worthy of the trip just by themselves. But the get there amazing roads were built and riding them is a constant pleasure. Once up there, just enjoy the mesmerising views over a great countryside.

GPS little helper In any given moment, the GPS present us with a carefully selection of alternatives. This allowed us to decide as you go; if you feel like staying longer, enjoying the view or even because you were amazed by a small village’s cuisine. Next just choose a faster and more direct route instead.

Belver

Marvão

Cáceres

LISBOA

If we are on the mood for some mountain roads and sweeping each corner with a grin on your face, then choose a more twisty route.

Évora

Monsaraz

Serra da Arrábida

Alqueva Serra da Arrábida on a sunny morning, with sandy Troia’s peninsula in the background is the perfect start for this journey. A few miles back and we imagined nothing would top the view over the Tajo river, from 25 de Abril bridge. We were wrong.

Descending from Monsaraz, Europe’s biggest artificial lake captures our attention. The warm Alentejo’s sun is reflected with the water freshness.

Serra de Aracena

Aracena curves and bends are the appetiser for lunch. Unexpectedly, woods surround us , just before the GPS invites us to an Andalucía gaspacho.

Toledo’s streets Ávila

El Escorial

Ruta de D.Quijote MADRID

Gredos National Park

Toledo Two things immediately happen as you enter Gredos National Park: temperature drops and motorcycles are seen everywhere. They come for the twisty roads immersed in the dense and tall woods.

Toledo, Granada, Ávila, Cáceres, Marvão and so many walled cities others in this route are special places with light and shadow pictures. Narrow streets and steep climbs in sharp angled corners compose a maze hard to match. And, riding a bike, is the best way to do it, as there are places where cars aren’t allowed to go.

Consuegra

Riding our bike, we climb the hills charging the old windmills, as giants in the mind of a certain Old Knight of La Mancha. And spinning around them, like mad men, there seems to be a voice in the wind, as Sancho Panza desperately runs in our direction, reminding us there are no monsters or giants to fights… just wind mills.

Good advice Ronda’s corners Despeñaperros

Sevilla

Driving from Ronda towards Malaga, we come across several other riders. It’s time to exchange stories of travels and adventures involving bikers. Stopping at El Madroño, with its walls covered with pictures of old motorbike competitions and reunions, the biker’s spirit is present. But, be warned, you’ll leave it wanting to stick your knee out on the next road bends.

Ronda Jerez de la Frontera

Puerto Banus

Estreito de Gibraltar

On each GPS subtle beep our attention is drawn to something out of the ordinary. It might be a national monument, a fantastic side road, or simply a privileged point for viewing the entire valley.

Tour Book

Granada

The Tour Book also gives us suggestions and useful information, such as hotel contacts and emergency numbers. It’s light enough to go with us everywhere and it fits in the inside pocket of our jacket.

Are you an Old School navigator? Ok, fine; a GPS is priceless to have next to you, specially when finding our way to the Hotel around cities. But it was designed to tell you “Go in that direction”. A map speaks to you at a whole other level, involving us in the surroundings. I, personally, feel naked travelling without a map, and in most of Europe, Michelin maps are the ones to have. (Michelin—Regional 576, 578 e 593 for this region 1:400k).

I’m picturing myself in an esplanade, just relaxing on a mild summer conversation. Friends want to follow this route and ask me for advices. But memory is given to play tricks on us. As soon as we return to everyday working and house environments, things start to blur. Names are confused and details blend each others. “Was it in Toledo or Avila we had that amazing coffee with milk?” Questions like this will haunt you, and in a matter of days, we just give up. So we follow a generally good advice: if you want to remember it later on, write it down.

Roads It’s easy to give in to the temptation of raking experiences. Actually, at the end, it’s the overall set of the journey, with its own rhythm and flow of roads and cities, that make the memory. Nevertheless, I’ll point a few of them. Whether you are arriving or leaving Ronda, it’s difficult to go wrong, as they are so many good choices. Climbing the A-369 at the end of the day or descending the A-397 in the morning, for example. Give up the free breakfast so that you have appetite for El Madroño’s café com leche; then lay back and watch as other bikers challenge themselves to the perfect road corTOP LEFT Through secondary roads on our way to Belver castle, in Portugal TOP RIGHT Entering the walls of Marvão CENTER RIGHT Marvão cobbled streets BOTTOM RIGHT Flowery facades of Marvão

TOP RIGHT Marvão cobbled alleys RIGHT CENTER Ávila’s turrets BOTTOM LEFT Does it fit? Really? Good thing we’re on a bike BOTTOM RIGHT Serra de Gredos

ner. Get in touch with Spanish riders and learn the best roads for your taste and preferences; they might point you the one to Embalse de Guadalteba (“El Chorro”) following A-367 and then down to Pizarra using the A-357. Even if you fail to get advices, point to any mountain around and make your own pick: Aracena (N-433), Gredos (AV-941), São Mamede near Marvão (N-246-1) or Sierra Morena (E-5) are just a few.

Citadels and alleys Just by looking at this pages’ photos, one gets a pretty accurate idea of what we are talking about. Medieval, gothic or roman, none should be left out. Although only authorized vehicles can circulate inside the walled cities, hotel clients own that privilege whether you ride in Marvão (running candidate to UNESCO), Cáceres, Toledo, Ávila or Granada. Riding a bike comes close to the feel of Ye Old Knights, trotting among the people, waiving to the clergy and snatching smiles to the giggling damsels

one in a million

Not all places are born equal; Some, few, get to go with us.

Quijote... ...Don Quijote

It was the year of 1605. Miguel Cervantes y Saavedra baptised Don Ingenious, formerly known as Alonso Quijano. He made him a madman, obsessed, tortured with love. He armed him Knight of the Sad Figure and, ironically ten years after, Cervantes on his death bed, trusted him with his most precious possession: Immortatily. We arrive at Alcazar de San Juan; the windmills dominate the skyline, up there on top of the hill. The Wind himself brings us a hoarse voice, from an already old Quijote “[…] ves allí, amigo Sancho Panza, donde se descubren treinta, o pocos más, desaforados gigantes, con quien pienso hacer batalla y quitarles a todos las vidas […]”. * Encouraged by it, we thrust up the hill, raising the same cloud of dust those in a hurry leave behind. We aim for these goliaths and pretend that our motorbike is Rocinante: “Y […] con la lanza en el ristre, arremetió a todo el galope de Rocinante y embistió con el primero molino que estaba delante […]**” Translations * “Look overthere, my friend Sancho Panza, over thirty or so shameless giants, with whom I plan to battle for their deaths.” ** “And with his spear at the ready he threw himself thrusting Rocinante full-speed ahead, slamming against the first windmill he found on his way.”

LEFT In Campo de Criptana, in front if Quimera windmill. RIGHT (from left to right) 1. Near Rocinante windmill, in Alcazar de San Juan . 2. Iron sculpture of Don Quijote. 3 a 7. San Anton windmills. 8. Road sign of Ruta de Don Quijote in Toledo.

San Lorenzo de

El Escorial The Monastery of San Lorenzo de El Escorial is truly worthy of royalty, in life and death, being a nobility mausoleum.

It is part of UNESCO World Heritage and it comes as no surprise. Strolling in its gardens is enough to feel this greatness. But one shouldn’t fail to see its’ interiors where all the finer details of the Basilica, the quiet inside Patio de los Evangelistas or the sumptuous Library

Following the road, whenever the woods open a huge cross reveals itself. It dominates the landscape as a reminder that Spanish Civil War shall not be forgotten. It is, however, surrounded in controversy. Franco burial ground is right in the middle of it. When this monument was ordered by him, he claimed that it would celebrate all deaths during Civil War, regardless of the sides. It is fairly common knowledge that is was built using about 20.000 political prisoners man work during dictatorship, under the policy “1 workday = 2 days pardoned”

Los

Caídos

Cáceres If I was a stork... …I would make my own each of its thirty towers; …I would be the envy of my fellow storks all over the World; …No one could expel me from Cáceres, “Storks Nest City”. If I was a Stork…

CENTER Through the main entrance of Marvão Castle LEFT Access halls in the Castle Tower TOP RIGHT There is a particular feeling in riding inside Marvão RIGHT CENTER Castle indoors BOTTOM RIGHT The views from the top are breathtaking

Ibn Maruán al-Yil’liqui… …It’s harder to say than it is to write but Marvão is named after this Al-Andalus military and religious leader. The castle is there since the ninth century. And for a good reason, too: it was meant to keep Córdoba’s emirs at arm length, managing to sustain an independent kingdom for half a century.

Today, the road leading to Marvão is free to all and, with its doors wide open, the walled city welcomes us. For reaching its highest point, we navigate in a sea of white houses and red roof tiles. There is a feeling that vertigo lingers here, along the pathways encrusted in the castle walls. Those with a soul of a Andean condor will feel at home; all others should probably stick with a postcard. Alentejo is known for its tidiness and hygienic habits, and it’s obvious where Marvão is in Portugal. You almost believe it’s a real size play town. Currently UNESCO is considering joining this white and red walled town to a set of world heritage wonders. If it were up to us, you’ve guessed by now what the decision would be

Marvão

Some believe there is no point in travelling if we donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t take the time to meet people, and share their habits, even if only on the smaller day-to-day details.

lifestyle iberian

LEFT TOP In Plaza Nueva, Granada, smoking melon shisha LEFT CENTER In Bodega Antigua, Granada hams align just above everyone’s head RIGHT TOP Las três señoritas rest their feet in Plaza Larga bench RIGHT BOTTOM 1) In Ávila, talking (and eating, of course) around a barrel 2) Pausing in the tasca Los Manueles 3) By Toledo belvedere at the end of the day

Small things There goes the popular saying “The Devil is in the detail”; Judging by the amount of tiny details, Spain is possessed. Spain is eaten in small bites, and tapas are meant to be small, so that fit in our mouths. And as any renowned ant biologist could tell you, many tiny individuals eat a lot and together they form crowds. At night, crowds appear during the night. Not because they are rallying against the Government. Away from the Sun rays it’s easier to enjoy the streets. Occasionally, they abandon it and return to the inside of the Bar, returning only after being served a new colorful plate of tapas or pinchos. They eat it standing up, seating or even crouching. Spanish people are experts in talking, a lot and loudly, in between bites. On each drink asked a new tapa is offered, and to each tapa bought a new drink is demanded. And so on...

“Primera!” (“First” in english), yells the bartender to the kitchen. If we persist and order another tapa, we’ll ear “Segunda!” (“Second”) and so on and so forth. The latest is always better then the one before, to convince you to stay and keep ordering. It also adds a scent of surprise as you never know what’s next. During the day, Spanish found ingenious ways for living with the scorching Sun, including those fresh water sprinklers and those huge cloths creating shadows in more exposed streets. A sense of life is constantly present

“La tapa es un regalo de la casa: ni se cambia, ni se elige”* Los Diamantes, Granada * “The tapa is on the house: you don’t change nor choose it”

LEFT Sevilla Plaza de Toros is one of the most wanted. The old billboards announcing bullfights are today’s pop art, offered in the bar and coffee shops galleries . (Café de Las Teresas, Sevilla) RIGHT TOP No window exists without a vase of flowery ornament. RIGHT BOTTOM 1 Toledo is a land of blacksmiths, but not only for swords and cutlery. (Barrio Judio, Toledo) RIGHT BOTTOM 2 Door detail in Barrio Judio, Toledo.

Choose a painting from El Greco; Done? Now pick another one. Probably, the caption will say they are about two different person. But something is off-key; the face, is not the same one? Perhaps even from El Greco himself...

Is has been hot all day long, and now the soothing and comfortable hotel room is just what the doctor ordered, before leaving for Sevilla’s night. Wherever we’ve stayed, the experience has been gratifying and relaxing. Mar d’Ar in Evora is rightfully entitled Timeless Charm Hotel. Looking at the light bathing the city walls we sip our drinks by the pool, remembering our day, walking among Evora’s people and streets. In Ronda, Los Molinos valley stretches out from our room window, just a few meters from the bursting town life, up and down the impressive Puente Nueva.

I set the water tap to the 33ºC; the relaxing bath begins in our room at Vincci La Rabida. A warm and fluffy bathrobe, carefully set on the counter, awaits me, as does the canopy bed. Four long veils touch the floor after a 5-meter drop from the high ceilings.

On the bed, beside me, a road map will be laid. I’ll be drawing yellow lines across it to better remember the roads we’ve done so far, as well as anticipating next days itineraries.

Granada’s Parador is set in a dames and knights scenario, returning from a bloody and intense battle in the Crusades. Behind the thick fortress doors, the ride rests, trusted to the stable boy. Our shiny armor hangs next to the long sword, as we contemplate the city of Granada, down there, throbbing and pulsating of life. In Toledo, the magnificent views from the balcony lures us to stay in the Parador, but we fight it with all our strength and visit the town. In Madrid, la movida awaited us. Vincci Soho next to Prado and Reina Sofia museums, Cristal Palace, Botanic Garden, or Portas del Sol

LEFT MAIN Inside staircase of Caceres’ Parador LEFT Inner yard of Hotel Vincci la Rabida, in Sevilla RIGHT TOP 1 Canopy bed at Vincci La Rabida RIGHT TOP 2 Cáceres’ Parador gardens RIGHT CENTER Dining in Caceres’ Parador gardens CENTER BOTTOM It’s relax time in Swimming pool RIGHT BOTTOM Caceres’ Parador interiors

where the faithful km Zero mark from which all Spanish roads start. In Caceres time travelling takes us to Sword and Cape ages. As we enter the walled city, it is as if we ear the chains lowering a drawbridge. Lisbon’s Santa Marta is located right in the center of Avenida da Liberdade and invites us to walking to Bairro Alto or Praça do Comércio, near the Tagus river.

something special Quite often, we force ourselves to stop; maybe itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just a simple and pleasant aroma that we havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t felt for long, or even a tear that escapes us. 47

In the center of a room, otherwise empty, we find a wooden platform, about 5 inches high. As we enter, both successions of the once vacant chairs rapidly become crowded.

CASA DE LA MEMORIA ANDALUZ Calle Ximénez de Enciso, 28 Barrio de Santa Cruz Sevilla, ESPAÑA Tel: +34 954 560 670 http://www.casadelamemoria.es

flamenco Beyond the pine boards of the stage, three wooden chairs sit, empty, expectant. Then, everyone’s eyes fall on the far corner, to a door from where this night’s performers have just entered. As many as the vacant stage chairs, these men fit perfectly on the stereotype of a gipsy. From the five-o’clock shadow beard, to the long and rebelled hair, carefully uncombed. Perhaps the single point that seems out of place are the heels and metallic tiptoes on their shoes, destined to have a purpose during the show, but useless on the street, or camp for that matter. These men are the essence which the fiery Andalusian flamenco is made of. Their empty hands are almost obsessively rubbed against each other, reminding a stretching exercise for an high-performance athlete, before the record-breaking attempt. These ten-finger instruments will lead the music, define the rhythm and tempo for a whining moan, languid and deep. Beside, the guitar will give the chords, rehearsed over the ages around campfires. It has begun. Clapping follows frantically. A cry bursts out, seconded by feet stomping and violent hand smashing, now even stronger and higher then before. These are the simple and humble means used. Virtuous tap-dancing and cried moans are performed by one, then the other, taking turns among themselves. At some point, we get fixated on their feet. They charge the floor impetuously in rapid movements, impossible to freeze each step. Two final thumps end the routine and awakes us from the hypnotic state we were drawn upon; we look up to find an exhausted man, with his shirt dripping wet, but a firm look with his head locked, proudly raised, staring in front. But flamenco is not made only of men. She wears a black dress, as colors aren’t the brand of a gipsy culture. It’s a long dress, because sensuality is born from what you cannot see. It is a simple outfit, as luxuries are for other kinds. Her shoulders are covered with a long dark shawl. All these are part of the performance; the cloths wave elegantly on the air, revealing a sturdy black shoe. Above it, a mere suggestion of a bare leg. One and a half hour later, it ends as abruptly as it started. Our coy hands are banged against each other, certain that they are pale in comparison.

Flamenco is life, celebrated in sadness and moaning. It is a black fire made of high and proud flames

TOP Cold water pool alternated with warm water MIDDLE LEFT Ceiling of turkish baths in Granada MIDDLE CENTER Cold water pool detail MIDDLE RIGHT Aljibe’s reception BOTTOM Hot room

‫الحمام‬ Our warm clothes and backpack are crammed in the small wooden locker. I am left with bathing shorts and a towel.

hammam

The next wooden door, carved and heavy, has a cold iron latch. Pushing it aside reveals us a dark room, with a mist hanging halfway. A distinctive scent of eucalyptus is in the air, dense and moist: we are in an hammam. I did consider using my camera inside, but clearly not all models are up to the task. Only the waterproof GoPro managed to resist and, in hostile conditions, I manage to capture a few photos, despite the ever present condensation.

Under water, a single point of light projects sparkling reflexes in the ceiling. The central pool is full of cool water. The remainder seven pools are destined to make us soup vegetables in simmer. We are advised to alternate between cold and warm pools. This should promote expansion and constriction of the blood vessels, hopefully beneficial to our health. The calm environment is only interrupted by a calling. A woman’s soft voice announces a number: this is the invitation for the cleansing full body massage. Done in a private room, two strong hands expel toxins and impurities by force, either physical and mental. After being punished, we are dropped to faint near a hot mint tea cup in the relaxation room. One eyelid after the other, drowsiness threatens and we end up succumbing

BAÑOS ARABES ALJIBE DE SAN MIGUEL Calle San Miguel Alta, 41 bajo Granada, ESPAÑA Tel: +34 958 522 867 http://www.aljibesanmiguel.es

A Pearl set of Emeralds. This is how Moorish poets have portrayed it throughout times. It was built in layers, following each one of the architectural regimes and trends. The common tread was to recreate Heaven on Earth. This has been achieved allowing Water, Air and Sun to circulate freely in its courtyards and closed rooms. But for everyone else, you’ll need a ticket to get in. And it’s not easy to get one. Anticipate it as much as possible, whether you use the internet or contact directly Alhambra’s ticket office. You can always take your chances on the same day; wear comfortable shoes and put your waiting hat on. Ah! And make sure you are there as early as 07AM. But be advised: you may not get your ticket nonetheless, as they make available only a third of the 6 thousand-a-day limit.

‫الحمراء‬ Al-Lhambra:

“the red one” We are in! Although our preference was with the night visit, we finally managed to enter. It ended up being a good option, allowing to overview illuminated Albaycin’s Barrio.

PRINCIPAL Comares yard in Nasrid Palaces TOP LEFT Nasrid’s Salón de Comares TOP CENTER Nasrid’s indoors TOP RIGHT Sala de los Abencerrajes BOTTOM LEFT AND CENTER D.Carlos V Palace details BOTTOM RIGHT Wall adornments in Nasrid’s rooms

The night ticket includes a visit to Nazariés Palaces, quite probably the pearl poets referred to. The scale and orientation of all rooms and courtyards is harmonious. Inside walls are carved with Arabic inscriptions and geometric shapes. They look perfect, but they are not. And it’s on purpose. According to Al Koran’s law, only to God himself is perfection allowed, as for mortal humans are to aspire to it. Allah is repeatedly celebrated in the Arabic inscriptions “Wa la galiba illa Allah” (Only Allah pervails).. The Red Fortress maintains still plays a protective role as in each foreigner’s visit to Alhambra, Granada gains life

going somewhere

You will want to choose the right horse, if you are leaving to explore vast and open areas.

Some projects have a tendency for being postponed; we keep finding excuses and reasons for doing so. And at some point, we look back and realize that there is a sense of emptiness. Southern Spain was such a project for the two of us. When MotoXplorers created their line of self-guided tours, a new route was launched, covering the most and better part of that area in Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Iberian Peninsula.

Deciding Although riding with a guide was an alternative available to us, we were convinced that our background and experience allowed us to pursue this journey by ourselves. We were reassured by the GPS constant presence, filled with points of interest and alternative routes. Browsing the pages of the Tour Book included in the Tour package, we felt

confident and all fears dissipated: that Summer we were going on vacation to Spain with MotoXplorers’ help.

Take your time Travelling as a couple has singularities of its own. If you were to ride alone, just riding seems enough, and mileage is devoured rapidly. Too fast, sometimes... most times. The links suggested in the self-guided route are thought so that there is enough time to enjoy, stopping to linger in the esplanade or overlooking a green valley. However, there are days when you’ll rather arrive earlier. Then, simply by following the shorter alternative route, use some of the Tour Book advices to explore cities.

Comfort Every time we arrived at our hotel for the night, we felt amazed. These are impressive, regardless from where you think of it. Feel assured the surveilled parking will take good care of your ride. Attention to details is all around us. Each morning, before leaving to explore a new city or take the next road and destination, breakfast invites to relax. Wherever you stand, good suggestions are bound to pop from your GPS or Tour Book. It may be a Turkish Bath or a vigorous Flamenco show.

TOPLEFT Morning near Avila’s city walls TOP CENTER Riding the alleys of Caceres, near Plaza de San Mateo TOP RIGHT In Ronda’s San Juan Bosco BOTTOM Last checkup before leaving, at the door of Caceres’ Parador

LEFT Early morning in Caceres’ San Mateo Church TOP LEFT Following the footsteps of Saint Peter of Alcantara TOP RIGHT Ávila Towers as seen walking the city walls RIGHT CENTER Along the road between Cáceres and Portugal, on one of those where riding a bike is just perfect RIGHT BOTTOM Near Castelo de Vide, climbing to the top of Penha’s sanctuary.

Good engine on one of the safest bikes The motorbike models suggested and rented by MotoXplorers is right on the spot. BMW equips it GS line with arguments that leads to strong feelings. From the 650 to the R1200 GS series, safety is available with an effective ABS or a state-of.the -art traction control. The engine is lively and riding agility is a plus when facing the mazelike streets in Caceres or Marvão.

Guardian angel From basepoint headquarters, our support is available at a phone call distance. This is key to enjoy peace of mind throughout our vacations.

Last minute advice This is the simple part; We advise everyone to just go. Pack light on the luggage and heavy on dreams

Travel guides Despite the quality of our Tour Book , nothing comes close to having a good travel guide with us. It’s no secret that Lonely Planet offers some of the best guides; particularly for this route, the best options are the editions Spain (in broader strokes) and Andalucia if you are keen to plunge the details.

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