Mountain Flyer Issue 29 by Secret Agent Publishing

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FAT BIKES COME OF AGE

MAKE YOUR DAY SEEM EASY MEET SHANNON GALPIN

JUST KEEP THE OCEAN ON YOUR LEFT BIKEPACKING THE MEXICAN COASTLINE

DRY HEAVES AND SHIVERS

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Trabec Race MIPS The Trabec Race MIPS in-mold helmet combines functionality and performance for single track and enduro riders who are in need of the highest degree of protection. The construction is similar to how a skeleton is built for both resistance and durability. The inner aramid filament reinforced EPS core is tough and resilient while the outer PC shell is constructed with the seams located in the areas of least exposure. The helmet is equipped with the patented MIPS system to reduce the rotational forces to the brain in the event of an oblique impact. An aerodynamic channel system and 16 vent slots provides great ventilation while the fit is designed to be around the head versus on top, which promises superior protection.

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ellsworth • pivot • orbea • khs • parlee • look • Much more Celebrating 10 years of year round bike service.

Editor/Publisher Brian Riepe riepe@mountainflyer.com Publisher Steve Mabry steve@mountainflyer.com Art Director Chris Hanna chris@mountainflyer.com Managing Editor Trina Ortega trina@mountainflyer.com Copy Editor Charlie Wertheim charlie@mountainflyer.com

Writers Jordan Carr Shannon Galpin Shawn Lortie Chris Miller

Chris “Dirty” Reichel Syd Schultz Jen See

Photographers

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Devon Balet Travis Beard Trent Bona Eddie Clark Tony Di Zinno Xavier Fané

Rikard Lindby Shawn Lortie Chad Melis Chris Miller Mike Riepe Margus Riga

Raul Robino Syd Schulz Corie Spruill Mark Wiggins

Illustration Keiko Kasza

0105 Edwards Village Blvd # B-105 Edwards, Co. 81632

Publisher Secret Agent Publishing, LLC

Mountain Flyer P.O. Box 272 Gunnison, CO 81230 970-387-8806 adsales@mountainflyer.com subscriptions@mountainflyer.com www.mountainflyer.com Advertising Sales: Scott Leonard scott@mountainflyer.com Send your letters to: editor@mountainflyer.com Subscribe Online at www.mountainflyer.com or mail subscription card to: Mountain Flyer Magazine, P.O. Box 272 Gunnison, CO 81230

Moving? Send address change to: addresschange@mountainflyer.com Mountain Flyer magazine is published quarterly and is available nationwide through select locations, as well as fine bike shops and coffee stores throughout the Rocky Mountain region. When you’re finished reading, pass it on! Nothing in this publication can be copied or reproduced without prior written permission of the publisher. All material and images are compiled from sources believed to be reliable, but published without responsibility for errors or omissions. Secret Agent Publishing assumes no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts or images. But we’ll sure consider them.

Knowing the hardest part is behind him, David Bunt reaps the reward of his determination as he exits the first descent of an avalanche shoot in the West Elk Mountains of Colorado.

Trent Bona

This was shot on the toughest day of the 10-day Mongolia Bike Challenge stage race. Conditions were brutal. There was a thick fog at the tops of all the climbs, and the bitter cold rain and winds were doing a number on most of the competitors. Mud was also an issue. Our support vehicles were getting stuck everywhere, and racers resorted to running with their bikes in sections where the track was unrideable. About two miles after this shot was taken, the dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stage was called off, and all but this lead group needed to be rescued and picked up by the support vehicles. 10

Margus Riga

Switzerland has a nearly infinite number of trails. And sometimes, finding a new one is just a matter of jumping the fence. 12

Rikard Lindby

30 A MEXCELLENT ADVENTURE

by Chris “Dirty” Reichel “Just keep the ocean on your left” is about the best advice you can get when navigating the Mexican coastline by bike. Reichel, along with photographer Devon Balet, guides us on a tequila-fueled, whale of a fat bike tour from Rocky Point, Mexico, back to the Arizona border.

46 HONORARY MALE: A WOMAN,

A BIKE AND THE FIGHT FOR EQUALITY IN AFGHANISTAN by Shannon Galpin Riding a fine line between brazen and adventurous, Galpin brings us along for the ride as the first female to mountain bike in a country that’s astonishingly beautiful for adventurers but predictably perilous for women.

74 TWENTY2 CYCLES BULLY

by Jordan Carr Twenty2 trims the fat from the fat bike with its lightweight, race-oriented ti Bully. It will change the way you think about fat bikes.

90 FABRIC OF LIFE:

CARBON FIBER KEEPS CHAVEZ ON HIS TOES by Jen See When it comes to carbon fiber, custom framebuilder and carbon repair specialist Edgar Chavez has magic hands.

74 COVER PHOTO: DEVON BALET The best things in life are free for Ross Schnell as he eats up the goods on Free Lunch, one of the more exemplary double black diamond trails found in the Lunch Loops trail network of Grand Junction, Colo. 14

USPS publisher’s statement: Mountain Flyer Magazine (ISSN 1944-6101) March 2013 is published bimonthly by Secret Agent Publishing, LLC, 509 West Virginia Ave, Unit 3, Gunnison, Colo. Periodicals postage paid in Gunnison CO and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to Mountain Flyer, PO Box 272, Gunnison, CO 81230

the rest 8 Gallery 18 Editor’s Note 20 Advocacy: Building Relationships Through Enduros by Jordan Carr 24 Profile: Shannon Galpin Pedals a Revolution by Trina Ortega 29 Riders Journal 42 Argentina: Expect the Unexpected by Syd Schulz 60 Hell or High Water – The World Comes to Louisville by Shawn Lortie 68 Dry Heaves and Shivers on the Coconino Trail by Chris Miller 73 Paraphernalia 78 Foundry Broadaxe 29er 80 29er Trail Wheels 82 Accessorize 84 Go Ahead, Inhale: Fat Bikes Come of Age by Jordan Carr 96 Bike Date with Corie Spruill 98 Tailwind—There are Things by Trina Ortega

Robert Brudenell grits out the last lap of the Copper En Fuego at Copper Mountain Ski Resort, which was the first race of the Leadville Winter Mountain Bike Race Series in Colorado. Eddie Clark

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Piglet Would Do It Mr. Fox sits at his kitchen table, sharpening his claws and contemplating his next meal when he is interrupted by a sharp rap on the door. “Hey, Rabbit, are you home?” Stunned, Mr. Fox thinks to himself, “Rabbit? If there were rabbits in here I’d have eaten them for breakfast.” Mr. Fox opens the door to find a soil-stained and surprised looking piglet. Piglet has been playing in the dirt (a sign of good character), so we know he’s been having some fun. Piglet says, “Oh, no!” Mr. Fox says, “Oh, yes!” and takes Piglet inside to prep him for a roast. Piglet puts up a mild struggle then gives in to his fate, but he has a suggestion for Mr. Fox: “I’m filthy,” he says. “Don’t you think you should clean me up first? Just a suggestion, Mr. Fox.” Agreeing, Mr. Fox gathers wood and water, starts a fire and preps a warm bath for Piglet. After his scrub down, it becomes clear that Piglet has hatched a bold and clever plan. He’s enjoying his adventure very much. By the end of the night, Piglet has duped Mr. Fox into giving him a nice warm bath, cooking—from scratch—a hot spaghetti dinner (to fatten him up), and a deep tissue massage (to soften him up). Mr. Fox is so busy salivating over the thought of a nice plump, tender, juicy pig roast that he doesn’t realize he has exhausted himself. He passes out on the floor, completely spent. Piglet feigns one sympathetic look at the fox and bolts out the door, grabbing a bag of cookies off the counter on his way out. Skipping home under the moonlight while nibbling on a cookie, Piglet is emboldened by the adrenaline rush and contemplates whom he should visit next: Mr. Bear or Mr. Wolf.

“My Lucky Day” by Keiko Kasza

This is the storyline of my 5-year-old’s current-favorite bedtime story (“My Lucky Day” by Keiko Kasza), which means I have read it every night for the past 12 days, giving me ample opportunity to analyze the zen of Piglet. Piglet is a hero among the most adventurous spirits. Piglet is a badass. He is a con artist, which isn’t a great role model for kids, but once someone plans to eat you, all niceties are left on the table. Piglet makes an amusement park of the dangers within the lair of Mr. Fox. He is a brazen adventurer and a brilliant tactician. Life’s next adventures are ahead of Piglet, and he runs at them; because you’ll never know what you can achieve unless you go for it.

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BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS THROUGH COMPETITION

Enduros Set the Pace for Trail Advocacy by Jordan Carr As the van skidded to a stop at the top of Geyser Pass, the early morning sun gleamed through a thick patch of clouds. Racers eagerly piled their way out of the shuttle vans. Excitement buzzed as 150 riders prepped themselves for a ground-breaking event on the world renowned Whole Enchilada Trail in Moab, Utah. 2012 was a monumental year for mountain bike racing in the U.S., with European-style enduro races cropping up all over the West. Many believe that the enduro, in its truest form, brings racers back to the roots of mountain biking. “There are a lot of definitions for what enduro racing is, but in true sense, it’s spending a day out on some of the most challenging mountain bike terrain with your friends, while simply getting timed on only the downhill sections of trail,” explains Brandon Ontiveros, promoter for the 2013 Big Mountain Enduro Series. Don’t let this fool you, however. Enduro includes all of the climbing tied to an all-day epic, but racers are not timed on those particular sections, taking a bit of the pressure off of being an uber-fit elite endurance athlete. In 2012, Big Mountain Enduro hosted three innovative events on beautiful yet remote, sensitive and challenging sections of trail. Other events, such as the Wasatch and Snowmass enduros, were held on privately permitted ski areas with purpose-built bike trails. Some believe this style of racing is bringing a new and exciting element into bike competition, one that offers a broader appeal and aligns more closely with the heart of mountain biking. But meeting the needs of the enduro creates a new set of challenges for event promoters 20

Devon Balet

and land managers. These events also have the potential to create tension between trail users, land managers and even other mountain bikers who are less keen on utilizing delicate backcountry trails for such intense, sometimes high-impact, racing. After a day of enduro racing, trails often show the signs of battle, whether it be blown out corners, braking bumps or ruts. Some trails used for Big Mountain Enduro events were developed well before current trail design standards were in practice, thus forcing the need for more maintenance after the influx of use. As the enduro finds its direction in the U.S., rising conservation concerns from land agencies have hummed in the background, pushing promoters like Ontiveros to find creative ways to work with land managers and give back to the trail, with the goal of leaving it in better condition than when they found it. “More people on these trails means we have to be less impactful and more resourceful,” Ontiveros says. “It’s crucial that all of us support local trails and bike advocates who are doing good things for the industry and the environment.” In order to provide a unique, backcountry experience, the Whole Enchilada takes place on a combination of multi-use trails situated on both Forest Service and BLM public lands, giving gravity-oriented riders a fresh experience void of chairlifts and ski runs. “We strive to provide a genuine experience for riders looking to escape the norm, but it can’t be done without the approval of land managers, so we must show them that we won’t just tear up the trails or piss off other users,” Ontiveros explains. “We’re looking out for the big picture and long-term success of the sport and will focus on trail projects, running sustainable events and giving back to trail advocacies whenever possible. We’ll put in many days of trail work each season and try to kick back funding as often as possible.” Big Mountain Enduro is also focused on meeting with land

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Some enduro-style events, such as the Snowmass Village, Colo., Master of the Mass shown here, take place on privately permitted ski areas with purposebuilt bike trails.

management agency partners regularly throughout the year in order to discuss trail plans, stay on top of projects and build integral partnerships. Developing these levels of cooperation is a huge step toward continuing the pursuit of access for self-propelled two-wheel recreation. Communities, in turn, will eventually see the economic and social benefits that are tied to these popular, often sold-out events. Understanding that mountain bikers do have an impact is important, and by participating in organized trail work days and making cash donations, mountain bikers can show other trail users that they value conservation, public trails and their natural allure. “It’s important for an event organizer to be aware of the impacts of the race on other trail users and the environment and to communicate that awareness to the land manager to develop a plan,” explains IMBA communication specialist Katherine Fuller. “A lack of basic trail stewardship can sour relationships with local, volunteer trail maintainers and the land manager and perhaps even limit the possibility for future races in a particular location.” As the leading authority on the advocacy front, IMBA understands the importance of relationships built through events and the potential they provide to the advocacy movement. “Enduro races present a great opportunity to highlight the value of purpose-built mountain bike trails,” Fuller says. “The more popular enduro racing becomes, the more we can advocate for mountain bike-specific trails. Bike-specific trails appeal to a growing population of mountain bikers and can help diminish conflict on shared-use trails where trail traffic is high and concentrated.” One option within the enduro discipline is to designate mountain bike-specific trails, which would ease tension with other land users while still providing a unique experience for beginner and expert riders alike and thus grow the sport in a positive, collective manner. Trails like the final section of the Colorado Trail near Durango, 22

Colo., are known for their technical, rugged appeal and have long been popular for many forms of recreation like the Kennebec Pass Enduro. “It’s hard for us to make everyone happy, but we try our best to allow any event that will be positive for any user group,” explains Jed Botsford of the San Juan National Forest Columbine Ranger District, which manages the trails in the Durango area. “Working with local organizations, like Trails2000 in Durango, really helps locals see that these events are providing Corie Spruill value to the community. No matter what event, this is an important aspect [of the trail work partnership] that is either overlooked or is never publicized, so locals just see the event come in and make their money and leave.” Botsford sees a good number of events each season and is happy to work with organizations like Big Mountain Enduro that have thought through the details. “They came in with everything spelled out, what trails they wanted to use, how many people, transportation, all of that. That makes it easier on us because we can work with them to make the event a positive one for everyone.” As the U.S. enduro scene continues to flourish, it is important that riders support events that advocate for local trail work and relationships with land managers. Yes, on the surface, this option appears to be more costly for an individual racer than some other types of races. Participant number caps, permits, planning, shuttles, first aid support in the backcountry, and more will drive up race fees. Add in a suggested donation or possible trail work day, and that’s more out-of-pocket money and time. But the costs are worth it; nothing compares to scenic and adventurous routes, such as the 26.5-mile Whole Enchilada, which takes you through evergreen and aspen forests, across high-mountain streams of the La Sals, and drops you into the technical desert Porcupine Rim before exiting across from the Colorado River. It simply cannot be replicated. Some of these first-year events are setting the standard for progression of mountain biking; they will show other user groups that mountain bikers value the land and are willing to give back for the greater good. The fun-yet-competitive nature of enduro events pulls racers young and old from a variety of backgrounds. This popularity can develop a shift in mindset for the younger generations and create a movement of big-picture thinkers who are not only looking out for their own best interests but for the sport as a whole. If this movement can be created through healthy, active competition based in the great outdoors, it could be a winning combination.

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Taking a breather: Shannon Galpin on the Portal Trail above Moab, Utah, two weeks after returning from Afghanistan.

It’s usually all or nothing for Shannon Galpin. When she first started mountain biking in 2006, she not only picked out a singlespeed but raced and podiumed that year, too. She didn’t just found a nonprofit, Mountain2Mountain, to fight for women’s rights, she launched it in Afghanistan, ranked one of the worst countries to be a woman. When she was raped in a near-fatal attack at age 18, she did not retreat but drew strength from the tragedy and now helps others who’ve been subject to gender violence. She’s the first woman to mountain bike in a country where females are punished for participating in “unacceptable” activities (including cycling). Named one of National Geographic’s “Adventurers of the Year” of 2012, she is among elite athletes who lay it all on the line for their pursuits. She sold her home, quit her job and leveraged her last asset (a car) to keep her nonprofit afloat. There have been so many times when “nothing” would have been easier. But Shannon Galpin is the “all” in the phrase “all or nothing.” She doesn’t know how else to live. Now, after four years working in Afghanistan, Galpin has launched her first domestic program, Strength in Numbers, in the United States to help young women at risk, female military veterans and violence survivors redefine “victimhood.” Strength in Numbers will consist of weeklong mountain bike and standup paddleboard camps with a focus on empowering other women to become leaders in their own communities. Camps for the inaugural year will take place in Moab, Utah; Aspen, Colo.; and her

home town of Breckenridge, Colo. Reflecting on her own random attack when she was a teenager working to be a professional dancer in Minneapolis, Galpin told Mountain Flyer,“That should have broken me; it could have killed me.” Galpin explained that after the incident she was terrified of being labeled a victim because it would make her fragile; she has known her share of rape victims who masked their pain with drugs and other negative habits. So Galpin grew a thick skin, lived without fear and developed the mindset of: “That which has broken many women is actually a source of strength.” “I believe we can empower voice and strength with young women labeled victims because as I know firsthand, a victim is only a victim if she believes it,” Galpin states on her blog (find a link at www.mountain2mountain.org). The fearless attitude makes a difference in small, everyday pursuits, such as not hesitating to drive over a mountain pass in a blizzard for an interview, and in achieving her big-picture goals, such as riding a mountain bike through a war-torn country that doesn’t allow women to cycle. Originally a dancer, later in life, Galpin turned to trail running and snowshoe racing. She discovered mountain biking six years ago and became addicted to the physical and mental challenge. But it was simultaneously fun. “When you’re mountain biking you have to embrace the suffering, especially on a singlespeed. You have to have the 25

shannon galpin

willingness to endure some pain and know you’re going to leave some skin on the trail. But it’s so much more playful than running ever was to me. It is so bloody playful … ‘bloody’ being the operative word,” she said, listing some of the races (Single Speed World Championships) and the “total silliness” of the culture (tutus, whiskey shots and tattoos) as part of the allure. Mountain biking also has been a source of strength for Galpin, so she wants to use bicycles in her weeklong camps to help others gain confidence. “Why don’t we look at the strength we can create on a mountain bike and use that as a means to 1) build camaraderie among women who’ve endured gender violence and 2) question the idea of what it means to be a victim,” Galpin said. “Our strength is in our numbers, and together we can pedal a revolution.” Galpin knows the reality: She cannot change the situation for women unjustly detained in Afghan prisons, nor is her focus to prevent rape here in the U.S. Her work may only be a “drop in the bucket,” but if everyone were to contribute a drop,

Pilot: Richie Schley

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she says, it would change the world. She has an 8-year-old daughter, and the “risk of inaction” is far worse. As she says in the short “MoveShake” documentary, her daughter needs to know “the choices that I made were because of her not in spite of her. She was one of the reasons I wanted to make the world a better place.” And she will accomplish her mission by helping women (and other supporters no matter their gender) find and use their voices. That was the impetus behind Mountain2Mountain, which she started in 2006. “My passion was creating voice and opportunity for women living in the worst conditions in the world,” Galpin said. She wanted to be an example of an individual breaking down barriers, hence the mountain biking in Afghanistan to meet and talk eye to eye with its citizens. She also was inspired by travel legend Dervla Murphy, who wrote the book “Full Tilt: Ireland to India with a Bicycle,” a nonfiction account of her solo adventures in developing countries. “When you’re on a bike, it highlights a region in such a different way. Right now the

only images we have of Afghanistan are from the barracks and the war zone,” she said, describing the Hindu Kush with lush, rolling green hills. “It’s more lush than Colorado. It’s stunningly beautiful country.… When you are able to highlight the people, the smells, the scenery, it really highlights the humanity.” During her five years of work in Afghanistan, she created a life-size, touring street art exhibition highlighting Afghan photographers, sponsored street art workshops, developed rural midwifery programs, started two computer labs, supported literacy programs and kindergartens for the children of imprisoned females, and is currently raising funds for a national school for the deaf in Kabul. Of course, she has talked one on one to countless citizens about women’s rights while touring the country on two wheels. But she recently recognized that there are “conflict zones” in the U.S. and set out to empower women back home. According to the Rape, Abuse & Incest National Network, one woman is raped every two minutes in this country. This led to the creation of Strength in Numbers.

Sent…

On a basic level, Galpin says she simply wants people to “give a shit” and is happy to see the bike industry taking notice. As of fall 2012, Alchemy Bicycle Co. joined her list of committed supporters. Alchemy provided a custom bike—first off the line from its new Denver shop—to Galpin to use for her October 2012 Afghanistan trip. The company additionally committed to building a fleet of hardtail, stainless steel singlespeed frames for Galpin’s camps. “Our core values are based on being humble, yet we strive to push the limits of all we do. In this value there is ‘alchemy’ in everything Shannon has done, continues to do, and has set her vision to,” says Matt Simpson, president of Alchemy. “Strength in numbers for us will mean putting our energy to supporting Shannon’s vision to giving a voice to young women. We hope to inspire our community of alchemists to take part in our journey and give a shit.” The lynchpin for the program, however, is Skratch Labs, the Boulder, Colo.-based company that is best-known for its Secret Drink Mix. The partnership came about when Galpin presented alongside Skratch Labs’

co-founder Allen Lim at TEDxMileHigh. Lim brought Alchemy and other sponsors to the table, and Skratch will be cooking at all of the camps, treating the women just like they would the pro cyclists on tour. Like Galpin, Lim believes in the transformational power of the bicycle, but what has really blown Galpin’s mind is that a start-up company would devote so much to her mission. “Skratch is less than a year old, and after I met with his team, Allen told me, ‘We know this isn’t necessarily the right decision for a company so young and vulnerable in terms of bottom line, but it’s 100 percent the right decision on an emotional level,’” Galpin said. Galpin has garnered support from other companies in the outdoor industry—Osprey Packs, Primal Wear and Shredly clothing— and continues to seek funding for her camps, noting that a company or individual can sponsor a participant or make a general donation. But it’s not just a hand-out. Each participant signs a contract at the end of the camp to “earn” her bike, pledging how she will create change in her community.

With all the recent support, Galpin is on her way to pedaling a revolution. Even her father, Loran Galpin, has reassured her that putting her “all” into her mission is paying off. On Oct. 15, 2012, he posted to her blog: Shannon, You are leaving your footsteps in this world and you are making them with confidence and above all you are sharing the joy of your walk with all those who are wanting to join the walk but who are just discovering the path you are carving. Keep the faith, be true to your self and do not get lost in all the distractions. A team is forming at your side and together you will discover the impact that you can have on all those who need your help, guidance, and who have been waiting for your dream to touch their lives. So put on your boots, jump on your bike and peddle [sic] over that next rise knowing that when you do that you are no longer alone on your trek. You now have kindred spirits that are joining with you and most importantly they share in your spirit, integrity, passion and in your dream.

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It all started out as most great bad ideas do— sitting in my friend Joe’s bike shop late in the day and having too many beers. I had recently acquired a fat bike after years of trying to justify owning a snow bike while living in the desert, and Joe was the only other person I knew who had one. One beer led to another, and we started to talk about some ideas I had been kicking around for fat bike tours. The instant I mentioned a Mexican beach tour, Joe simply said, “I’m in!”

When you do a bike tour on fat bikes up the coast from Rocky Point, Mexico, back to Arizona, navigation is pretty simple. Keep the sea on your left and go in a northerly direction. But the flat beach riding can get a bit boring. Joe enjoys the contrast of the short, sand hill from the monotonous, flat beaches.Â 32

The dates were picked, the route chosen, and as word spread of our idea, two more likeminded friends joined. Now a strong foursome, the stage was set for a bike tour like none of us had ever experienced. The plan was simple enough: We would take a shuttle bus from Phoenix to the popular tourist destination of Puerto PeĂąasco, Mexico. We would then ride our fat bikes back home to Arizona along the eastern shore of the Sea of Cortez, utilizing as much of the beach as possible. The trip got off to a rocky start when the van we were supposed to take south of the border needed a new driveshaft. All our anticipation and excitement came to a screeching halt as we sat on the curb for hours and emptied a 30 pack of Tecate. The cervezas helped us take the delay in stride, but we arrived at our destination after dark and about six hours behind schedule. The driver dropped us off at the nearest bar so we could get organized and make the best of our slight change in plans. The stop was fortuitous; we met some locals who told us about a neighborhood park where we could camp for the night. Clouds built the next morning, and even though rain was not in the forecast, there was no denying we were about to get wet. We

broke camp and hurried to take shelter at the only logical place, back at the bar. Everyone was anxious to get riding, but starting a long tour soaking wet was less than ideal, so we waited. We started riding the instant the storm passed, and with the sand all wet from the heavy rain, it was remarkably easy to pedal. The nervousness and anxiety of starting the trip was released with each turn of the pedals. Town quickly disappeared behind us, as we rolled north into the Mexican countryside. It became increasingly desolate the longer we rode, but navigation was not a concern. We had to keep the ocean on our left, stay pointed north, and we would eventually end up back in the United States. Camp for the second night was made behind some large dunes only a few hundred yards from the ocean, and we drifted off to sleep content with the day’s progress. We awoke the next morning to bitter cold and our sleeping bags covered in frost. As I Iay looking at the ice crystals on the sand, I could feel the soreness in my knees from the previous day’s effort. I wasn’t looking forward to getting out of my warm sleeping bag and facing the frigid morning. Everybody else was moving a little slowly, so we took our time and made a fire. We warmed our bodies and dried our shoes as we watched a pod of dolphins cruise

Top: Our second night found us curled behind a small sand dune only yards from the ocean. The chilly night made for a cold morning leaving our sleeping bags layered with frost. Joe and Dirty contemplate the cold and the discomfort of leaving their sleeping bags. Above: Beer? Came from a random abandoned resort owner. Whale skull? Well, we aren’t exactly sure how it got to this empty cement slab a half mile from the sea’s edge. When we stumbled upon this massive skull, it just made sense to take a short break and have a semi-cold beer.

Above: For several miles, we rode on nothing but spike-shaped shells layering the sea’s edge. Devon questioned the probability of the shells puncturing the tires, and later Travis was frantically trying to seal a massive hole left by one such shell. Right: Clown bikes, as our surly crew called our steeds, stuck out in Mexico more than any decrepit dog. Everyone we talked to about our trip thought we had lost our minds and were bat crazy. We simply looked at it as another day on the bike.

by in the distance. A little Advil, some oatmeal and a whole lot of coffee later, we were finally ready to ride. Just as we were about to roll out, a truck pulled up on the dirt road a short distance from our camp. Since we crossed a fence the night before, I figured it was best for us to go talk to them. It was the property manager, and he greeted me with a smile. Luckily, he had no problem with us being there as long as we put out our fire. I tend to be overly paranoid about water when bike touring, especially when wedged between the ocean and the desert. So I took this opportunity to pick his brain about the availability of fresh water along our route. His response: “There is no water for 100 kilometers to the north. You are crazy. No towns to the north for 100 kilometers, either. You and your friends are very crazy.” We thanked him again for letting us poach the campsite, he wished us good luck with a laugh, and we pedaled off to the north under bluebird skies. The riding had been a fairly flat and monotonous slog along the sandy shoreline. The white sand would give way to miles of shoreline covered in nothing but little white shells that would crunch and pop under the weight of our bikes.

But it became increasingly tough-going that day, as we had to cross stream after stream created by the receding tide. Eventually, we were confronted by an enormous mud flat that was easily more than a mile wide. We knew how hard the pedaling would be based on the smaller sections of muck we encountered earlier in the day. There was no easier way around and no way we were going to backtrack. The only option was to let a little more air out of the tires, take a deep breath and get on with the suffering. Each person set out on his own path across the flat, as if to have his own space to suffer in private. The black, silty muck reeked of low tide and robbed me of all forward momentum. I pushed the granny gear like I was climbing a mountain and desperately searched for any imperfection in the terrain—a section of firm sand, a rock, or even a few shells that could offer a moment of relief from the wheelsucking mud. I would stop occasionally to catch my breath, only to have my feet sink up to my ankles in the mud. We reconvened about 45 minutes later on a sand bar and everybody looked completely worked over. We continued for hours on sand roads and eventually pavement, and the sun got low in the sky. Almost out of water and faced

Top: On the fourth day we “found” what would likely be the coolest thing on the trip. From a distance, Travis spotted a massive group of birds wading in low tide. Travis took off riding straight for the 100-plus birds, sending them into a frenzy. Above: With low tide, the amount of beach to ride grew immensely. However, with the widened canvas came endless miniature river crossings. Some crossings were more difficult than others, and all left your feet wet.

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with 18 miles of riding in the dark to the next town, we were taken in by the residents of the small fishing village Los Pi単os. The fishermen let us make camp at the outskirts of town in a shack normally used for sorting shrimp. They provided us with fresh water and even gave us a six pack of ice-cold beers. Knowing we would only have a short distance to the next town the following day, we feasted on our remaining food. We were up with the sun and ready to ride in no time. As we pedaled up the road and around the first bend, we were confronted with an icy headwind; not just any headwind, a gale force headwind, one that would stop us in our tracks if we stopped pedaling for even a second. We were surrounded by sand dunes on all sides, and conditions quickly deteriorated into a full-blown sand storm. It was as if the wind had teeth and was tearing into every piece of exposed skin. We covered only a few miles in four hours, and Joe decided to hitch hike. He flagged down a ride, and we all cruised the remaining 10 miles to Golfo de Santa Clara at 150 kilometers per hour in the bed of a pickup truck. We beelined it to the first restaurant and devoured more food, beer and tequila than I thought humanly possible. 38

When on tour and sleeping under the stars, slumber tends to come early, and with that comes an early rise. On the start of the third day, the sun is perfectly positioned to capture this image from the warmth of my sleeping bag as Travis leads the way to the start of the day.

The wind can be your best friend, pushing you down the road with ease, or it can be your worst enemy, holding you back from any progress. The third day of our great bad idea came with an insane head wind that stopped us in our tracks. At times, walking was safer than riding.

Above: After the shuttle van’s drive shaft was replaced, our crew arrived in Rocky Point hours off schedule. What better thing to do than go straight to the only open bar? Tequila from plastic shot glasses and ice cold Tecates were consumed while meeting the locals. One man told us about his amazing large house on the beach, then suggested we sleep in the local park that “even has a Porta-John.”

Only slightly behind schedule, we rode most of the next morning on the beach, not wanting to leave the sand just yet. Getting on the pavement meant the ride was almost over and return to civilization and normal life was near. We didn’t have anywhere to be until the following night, so we just tapped out the miles at a casual pace, stopping often to make coffee and lounge in the sand. We made our last camp within sight of the border and drifted off to sleep watching U.S. military ordnance explode over the Pinacate mountains. After only a brief bit of sleep, the sounds of an animal rummaging through our things awoke us. When we turned on our lights, we were surprised to see it was a family of kit foxes. After all that we had been through—rain, mud, hail, freezing temperatures, dehydration, sandstorms, army check points and hundreds of miles of riding—our food was being ransacked by the cutest animals I’d ever seen. We were being attacked by cuteness, and all we could do was laugh and try to shoo them away. The next day we rode victoriously into the town of San Luis Rio Colorado and crossed the border back into the United States and back into reality and our everyday lives. We all went back to our families, jobs and responsibilities totally exhausted and sore for weeks afterward. We returned from the trip changed men, consumed with daydreams of remote beaches and never-ending long rides, and just waiting for that next chance to say, “I’m in!” 40

Top: It’s amazing how simple things like a shower and hot food will boost your morale. After a brutal day of battling the wind, it was a saving grace to take in an easy evening of stuffing face and walking on the beach. With cold beers in hand, we watched the sun set, thankful that we would be sleeping in warm beds that night. Above: Four friends on bikes with 3-inch tires, going south of the border for one great bad idea. Left to right: Chris “Dirty” Reichel, Devon Balet, Travis McMaster and Joe Berman set off to Rocky Point, Mexico, to act on an idea that was sparked over a few beers at the bike shop.

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Expect the Unexpected When Riding in Argentina

Raul Robino

by Syd Schulz My friends are arguing. Left, right, left, right. We’ve just climbed up a rocky stretch of singletrack and crested onto an open ridgeline. The Sierras de Córdoba stretch out beneath us, green and dusty, dotted with hamlets of whitewashed, tile-roofed houses. It is sunny because it is almost always sunny here, and heat rises visibly off our sweaty backs. Northern Argentina bakes in the summer. The trail forks ahead of us, spurring the debate. I have no idea where we are or how we got here, and I certainly have no idea how to get us back. So while the argument continues, I snap a few pictures, eat a banana and sit down in the sun. My guides are a pair of teenagers named Marcos and, out of necessity, I have complete faith in them. My Spanish is good but they speak in the sing-songy Córdobes accent, tossing insults back and forth like songbirds on crack. I catch only bits and pieces. “But if we go right, we miss the climb to the Cristo.” Cristo? Christ? I must have heard wrong. “What’s a cristo?” I ask, and they pause their argument to laugh at me. “Do you really not know who Jesus Christ is?” one of the Marcoses asks later as we ride past a giant statue of Jesus nailed to the cross. I protest that obviously I know of him, I just didn’t expect him to turn up on my bike ride. 42

Above: Descending a trail in Quebrada el Condorito, a place known for its rocky terrain and large population of Andean condors. Opposite: Sunset on a ride the locals call El Avion Caido, or the Fallen Airplane, because the trail passes the wreckage of a plane crash.

Argen Mountain biking in Argentina is best described in terms of the unexpected—the rides that start hours after expected and last long after dark, mountain-top picnics that devolve into wrestling matches or llama-chasing sessions, unplanned asados (Argentine barbecues) and late-night, cross-town jaunts for milkshakes. And then there is just the nature of riding in Córdoba, the second largest city in Argentina. Before moving here, I knew almost nothing about the city except that it is famous for fernet (a highly herbal liquor, usually mixed with Coke) and that there were mountain bike trails less than 30 kilometers outside the city. Less than 30 kilometers, how hard could it possibly be? As it turns out, pretty hard. Imagine entering a NASCAR race on a $2,000 pogo stick. Traffic regulations do exist in Argentina (at least someone once told me they did) but enforcement is limited to the occasional police checkpoint where drivers hurry to put on their seat belts and pretend they weren’t just going 180 kilometers/hour. In the city, a vague sense of order is maintained by a cacophony of horns. Argentines don’t just honk; they sit on their horns until the annoyance is removed. The center of the city is constantly blaring. For the cyclist, there are the expected obstacles—taxis (just bang on their windows when they try to merge on top of you) and buses (don’t worry, you can out-accelerate them)—and then a whole host of complications that aren’t an issue on U.S. streets: horse-drawn carts, people backing the wrong way down four-lane streets, old ladies jaywalking with 20-pound bags of onions. I’m pretty sure I cried after my first ride in the city. (Seven months later, I caught myself careening in between two taxis at 30 mph and had the terrifying realization that I was getting off on it.) The traffic perils are offset by the extraordinary beauty of Córdoba. There are

Raul Robino

miles and miles of dirt roads, rough doubletrack and rocky trails. The mountains, called the Sierras, are short and steep with punchy climbs and open views of rolling foothills covered in short, stocky brush. It is an arid landscape, dusty and mainly treeless. The sky is huge and hazy blue. The sun reflects off fields of dry golden grasses, which give way suddenly to boulder fields where the trail disappears entirely and everyone picks their own path over the uneven rocks. The trails have a very Argentine feel—rugged, ungroomed, unplanned and beautiful. In terms of infrastructure, mountain biking is in its infancy here. This is bound to change soon because Córdoba brings out cyclists en masse unlike anywhere I’ve ever been. Every May, 5,000 riders turn out for the Desafío Rio Pinto, a 50-mile gravel road race. This level of participation and excitement is intoxicating, and a sign of good stuff to come. For the moment, the trails are primitive and shared with cows, gauchos (Argentina’s iconic cowboys), motorcycles and llamas. We climb fences, wade through streams and huck our bikes across fields of neck-high grasses. We ignore “no trespassing” signs and, on several memorable occasions, pass billboards that say, “Military gun and explosive range. Do not pass.” The mountain bikers of Córdoba are much like their trails— disorganized, energetic, never overly serious. After one group ride, I go from knowing no one in a city of 1.3 million to knowing, well, everyone with a bike. They don’t think twice about including the awkward gringa in the weekend ride plans. People I have spoken 43

Preparing to descend a rocky meadow in Los Gemelos, the Twins.

to twice invite me on family vacations. I eat at strangers’ houses and greet them with a kiss and a hug before I know their names. There is a level of openness in the Argentine culture that is unequaled in the U.S. Several times, I am asked if it’s true that it’s hard to make friends in the States; if we really are as cold and unfriendly as everyone says. No, I answer, it’s just that you are all ridiculously nice. Unlike a lot of American riders and racers, Córdobes mountain bikers never seem to lose sight of what makes riding fun—ripping descents, great conversation and beautiful views. Even the fast guys stop to nap in the sun or tomar un mate, the national pastime of sipping highly caffeinated green tea out of a gourd. In Córdoba, the ride is about being on the bike and being outside. It’s about having a good time with friends. It’s simple. It’s not about training or intervals or races or how long you’re riding. (Just try to ask an Argentine for an accurate ETA, I dare you.) It’s certainly not about where you’re going either. That’s often decided on the spur of the moment. Ride plans, if they are ever formulated in the first place, are tweaked, revised or scrapped on a whim. As the awkward, linguistically challenged newcomer, I am the last one informed of such changes, if I’m informed at all. In Argentina, I exist in a constant state of unpreparedness. If I think we’re going out for a hard ride, we’ll probably stop and sip cafe con leche for an hour. Our gas station espresso is served in glassware with little orange sugar packets. When I think I’m in for an easy day, we pound out a three-hour climb. At the top it becomes clear that no one else has brought any food, so everyone sets about devouring my sandwiches and cookies. Everything is shared. The expectation of sharing is so engrained that no one asks for permission before nosing around my Camelbak and helping himself. (Luckily Clif Shot Bloks are too weird for the Argentine crowd, so there is something left for me.) Initially this annoyed me—call it culture shock—but I adjusted. I learned to bring enough for everyone. I bake brownies the night before long rides, prompting my friends to anticipate a “weird brown cookie” every time they see me. I learned to share in the disorder that makes riding in Argentina such an unforgettable experience. I learned to race taxis and wheelie through red lights, to stand on mountaintops and scream for no reason. Argentina has taught me to glory in the ride. 44

Raul Robino

On our way out of Córdoba, we stop for a box of facturas, Argentina’s finest sugary pastries.

Syd Schulz

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Honorary A Woman, Male a Bike, and the Fight for Equality in Afghanistan by Shannon Galpin

I didn’t go to Afghanistan to ride a mountain bike. Does anyone travel to a war zone, look around, and think, “Man, why didn’t I pack my 29er singlespeed and a pair of Lycra shorts?” Nope. They don’t. Trust me. I was in Afghanistan because I founded a nonprofit, Mountain2Mountain, that fights for women’s rights in conflict zones, and for the past four years I’ve been focused on Afghanistan. According to most human rights organizations and the TrustLaw website, the country is repeatedly ranked as the most dangerous place in the world to be a woman, which is

why I chose to launch my organization there. Like the song “New York, New York,” “If I can make it there, I’ll make it anywhere,” a more challenging work environment would be hard to find. It’s one of the few countries where females are not allowed to ride horses, motorcycles or bicycles. In contrast, I have been hooked on mountain biking ever since my first ride six years ago in Lyons, Colo., where I powered up the rock garden at Hall Ranch on a 29er singlespeed. And as my subsequent bruises and frequent blood donation to the gods of rock and dirt can attest, I thrive on jumping into the deep end.

Tony Di Zinno

Walking through the back streets of a Kabul neighborhood, Galpin encounters some girls fascinated by a girl riding a bike. They followed for several blocks asking questions.

Travis Beard

After working for a couple of years in various areas of Afghanistan, a curious gender relationship emerged. As a foreign woman, I resided in a sort of gender gray area: not a man but also not “just” a woman. I was an honorary male of sorts, a hybrid gender that allowed me equality with the men and full access to the women. In a segregated society, I was welcomed by the men with whom I spoke. I sat with the men, ate with the men, fished with the men, smoked with them and was treated more or less as equal—this in the same home where the women were sequestered, not seen or heard, unable to leave the house without a male escort and always under the cover of a burqa. Consequently, over time, I took to challenging the gender barriers when I could: accepting an invite by a male horseman to ride his buzkashi horse before a match or taking road trips with the Kabul Knights Motorcycle Club, which led me to purchase a motorcycle to navigate the city on my own. These activities also allowed me to see and experience a country known only for terrorism, oppression and poverty through a different lens. It was only a matter of time before I would get lured to the goat paths of the rolling green hills and stunning mountains. I first traveled to Afghanistan in fall 2008 and again in spring 2009, working to develop Mountain2Mountain’s first projects in the

country. After several road trips around the country, I found myself wishing I could explore the country on two wheels. I wanted to intimately understand the landscape in the Afghan soldiers, way Ernest Hemingway had penned: “It is by construction workers, riding a bicycle that police officers, farmers you learn the contours and young boys have of a country best, since you have to sweat up ridden my bike. the hills and coast The bike bonds us. down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are….” As I talked with friends, colleagues and translators, both foreign and Afghan alike (and researching which areas of the safer provinces were clear of landmines), I decided to bring my 29er. And so on Oct. 3, 2009, my 35th birthday, I first put tires to dirt on a dry riverbed in the Panjshir Valley and became the first woman to mountain bike in Afghanistan. Let’s be clear, there are no “trails.” There are goat paths, often precariously hugging the hillside in ways that nothing other than a surefooted goat could safely traverse. There are dry riverbeds, and four-wheeldrive roads, and high mountain paths that link to remote villages. There are old Soviet

Our Surlys loaded up with four days of supplies. Nancy takes a break near the Rincon Trailhead, as dark skies usurp our winter sun.

Travis Beard

Above: Galpin rides past one of many Soviet tank graveyards near the entrance of the Panjshir Valley. Right: Galpin talks bikes with the gardener and local “historian” outside of the historic Darul Aman Palace in Kabul.

tanks still standing sentry along the side of the road or perched in hillside fields. There are old men in turbans and young boys that challenge you to race. Through it all, as happy as I was to be riding a bike in one of the most gorgeous mountain areas of the world, it was all the more tangible: There were no women. During the 2009 trip, I rode several different places in the Panjshir and in Kabul. The most difficult part was riding attire; Afghanistan is not a country in which to break out the Lycra skin suit. Instead, I wore various combinations of long pants, long skirts, longsleeved tunics and head scarves, along with my cleated bike shoes and gloves for a sweltering yet culturally unoffensive outfit. In a country where women are not allowed to ride, I had been worried about the reaction. But instead of being offended, the men who gathered around before and after each ride were curious, flabbergasted even. On every ride, conversations would arise about why I was there, what was I doing in Afghanistan, and each interaction allowed me to share the mission of Mountain2Mountain and ask men their thoughts on women, education and even women’s sports. Each conversation finished with offers of tea or

Tony Di Zinno

dinner with their families or invitations to their villages. Emboldened, I return with my bike again exactly one year later, with a plan to ride across the Panjshir Valley and summit the 14,000-foot Anjuman Pass that marks the border of Panjshir province. Outside writer Nick Heil has joined me and, in solidarity, borrows a 29er singlespeed. We are escorted by a local driver, a photographer and a translator from Kabul to the gates of the Panjshir Valley, which marks the start of our ride. Panjshir province consists of a valley floor etched out by the Panjshir River surrounded by 13,000- and 14,000-foot peaks. We assemble our bikes

Through it all, as happy as I was to be riding a bike in one of the most gorgeous mountain areas of the world, it was all the more tangible: There were no women. Riding in Afghanistan is not the place to break out the lycra skin suit. Throughout the arduous ride across the Panjshir Valley, Galpin wore long pants, a long skirt, long-sleeved tunic, and scarves to create a sweltering, yet culturally unoffensive riding outfit.

Travis Beard

and start our journey. In my hydration pack is a silver barrette, given to me by a woman in the Kandahar prison, which I had visited in the spring. Nooria was in jail for murder. At age 20, she was the fifth wife of a 61-yearold man. The other four wives were dead at his hand, and she had been enduring his abuse for four years. I noticed her in the crowd of women because she was wearing a vibrant purple tunic and scarf that seemed out of place in such a dark place. Her face was strikingly beautiful, and despite her heartbreaking story, her large brown eyes weren’t sad, they were kind and gentle. We talked at length, and she shyly pulled up her sleeves to show me the lines of scars—repeated knife wounds from her husband—that criss-crossed her arms. I had visited many prisons in Afghanistan, heard many such stories, but something about Nooria’s face spoke to her spirit, and I was disappointed that I couldn’t stay longer with her. When it was time to go, she handed me a jeweled barrette. I didn’t

want to take anything from these women, but Nooria insisted. I took out my ponytail, and replaced my hairband with the barrette. I wanted to bring it along on this pedaling journey as a talisman, as if some small part of her could be on this adventure and free beyond the prison. The road climbs gradually along the entire valley floor until Anjuman Pass and a big mountain ascent. I try to push a fast pace, so we can complete this safely and quickly; it is not a scenic excursion, as much as I wish we could slow the pace and enjoy the landscape. We are very visible and trackable riding for 140 miles on a linear path on the only main road in the province. Our driver, Najibullah, is a local Panjshiri and he drives a rented 4x4 with my photographer and friend, Travis Beard, and a female translator, Nabila. Najibullah follows behind or drives ahead so that if trouble erupts we have a local man and translator to help. This comes in handy on the second day of riding when we pass the last village, Parion, which also serves as a

Tony Di Zinno

Galpin rides her handbuilt Alchemy 29er singlespeed past the historic Darul Aman Palace in Kabul. Emblazoned with 001 and her name, the bike was the first Alchemy built in its new Colorado workshop.

police checkpoint. Nick and I continue to ride. Because the police didn’t want us to go further without an escort or paying a hefty bribe, Najibullah and Nabila hang back to negotiate an agreement. Wherever you go in Afghanistan and however you are traveling, it is priority one to have a local with you to develop trust and ensure safety. The initial climbs aren’t extended, other than Nick’s aptly named L’Alpe d’Huez, which kicks both our asses and reminds us that this is not a spin around Central Park. Most are short and punchy climbs, and I can stand up and easily crank them out in my long pants and skirt. Nick pulls up beside me after an hour or so and says, “This isn’t flat!” I look over at him smiling. “Who said it was flat?” “Well, Panjshir Valley, valley floor, flat. This isn’t flat.” “I told you it was a steady incline the

whole ride until we reached Anjuman Pass, and then it’s a climb, most likely on foot pushing the bikes,” I explain. “I don’t remember you saying that.” “I did. Oh well, it’s too late now. Let’s ride!” I joke. Periodically, boys and men join us, riding alongside, asking questions and occasionally challenging us to a race. A man in cream-colored loose pants and a long tunic (traditional shalwar kameez clothing for Afghan men) and a pakora hat, rides with us for a couple of miles. He is commuting from his day job as a teacher at a boy’s school to an office job in the afternoon. We talk at length about his work and his family as we ride together toward our rest stop for the night in the village of Dashty Rewat. The second day, my ass feels sore, but I am happy. Nick and I ease into a gentle pace to coax the legs back into what’s going to

Travis Beard

be a long, tough day in the saddle. We are approximately half way to the start of the climb up the Anjuman Pass, and the road will become much more arduous and steep as we get closer to the mountain passes. Thirty minutes or so out of Dashty Rewat we come across a Kuchi camp on the side of the road. Camel caravans, tents and brightly colored clothing set the feel of an untouched place. The view is postcard perfect. The ever-present dust in Afghanistan gives a soft lens that, while chocking my lungs, makes a rich golden light unlike anything else I’ve seen. The encampments of these nomadic tribes and their camel caravans add splashes of color and make me feel like I’m traveling the Silk Road in another era. Nick is blown away, too, but our awe takes another course a few miles later as we encounter a deadly

set of steep, loosely graveled and seemingly After two days of riding in the Panjshir, Galpin passes the last village, and the unending switchbacks. only people she saw were goat herders I vacillate between feeling tired and farmers and the occasional truck. and pained to feeling euphoric from the Having run out of drinkable water, she positive interaction with the locals and the filled her Osprey hydration pack with apple juice. surrounding beauty. The mountains are free from development and rise sharply on both sides. Due to the lack of villages and traffic this far back, it’s not hard to imagine mujahedeen (local militias I know we have to turn who have defended their home turf from the Soviets around—gun runners and the Taliban) hiding out are not to be trifled in the mountains around us. with—and while my head The scale and remoteness of this region would give is in agreement, my heart them home advantage. The needs a few more pedal otherworldliness and lack of

strokes to come to terms with the news.

Travis Beard

A warning that Nooristani gun runners were in the mountains ahead made the decision to turn around easy. Harder was crossing the freezing cold river in long pants and skirt and bike cleats.

resources lead to a combination of fatigue and euphoria that comes with riding over abusive terrain for long miles. It reminds me of my first epic mountain bike ride, a one-day unsupported singlespeed ride of the White Rim in Moab, Utah. The switchbacks level off, and we continue further into the mountains. The roads get steeper, rougher and more remote. The image of mujahedeen keeping watch over their valley sticks with me. There is a palpable shift in the atmosphere as Nick and I cross a couple of small rivers, but it’s not until we are walking our bikes up a major incline that an older man coming down with his two donkeys stops us. He asks where we are going. When we reply Anjuman, he starts shaking his head, and demonstrates the use of large gun,

saying that we shouldn’t go up there. “Men with guns, not a good idea.” The message he gives in a combination of Dari (the variety of Persian spoken in Afghanistan) and sign language is pretty clear. They are not locals, he explains, but rather gun runners from the neighboring province, Nooristan, known as one of the most dangerous provinces in the region due to heavy criminal activity like illegal gun and drug smuggling. I know we have to turn around—gun runners are not to be trifled with—and while my head is in agreement, my heart needs a few more pedal strokes to come to terms with the news. Only two months prior, 10 aid workers were murdered by gunmen in neighboring Badakshan, and I have to remember that the goal of this trip was not the summit; it was simply a logical end

‘I stand and rejoice every time I see a woman ride by on a wheel … the picture of free, untrammelled womanhood’

point. I already completed the real goal— riding for two days across the entire valley as a woman, challenging perceptions, asking questions, racing young boys and men on their bikes, and connecting this ride to a series of rides back home to raise money for future projects. We ride up to a major river crossing that is bloody cold, and the slick rocks and strong current make it hard to walk across in cleats. We get to do this twice, I think. But on the other side is one of the most incredible spots I’ve seen in Afghanistan. The narrow mountain valley we’ve been riding in has opened up to a golden, grassy field. The bluebird sky contrasts with the golds and browns, and the entire scene is bathed in a soft, yellow glow as the sun sets behind the mountains. In the distance, we see the snowcapped mountains that mark the barriers between Nooristan and Badakshan on the east and Baghlan on the north. We sit down in the field, legs wet up to our knees. I take out the barrette given to me by the imprisoned Kandahar woman and hold it in my hand while I digest the disappointment and the elation of getting this far. The afternoon light is fading, and Nick

and I decide to enjoy a little of the incline in reverse. We cross the river, get back on our bikes and start cruising toward home. I smile in awe of the beauty, and more tears slide down my cheeks. After that trip, it was simply a matter of continuing to ride each time I visited, even if hauling my bike through customs became a comedy act for the security guards. After a dozen trips to Afghanistan in the past four years, I have been able to sneak in many more rides and feel honored and humbled to experience that country on two wheels. I’ve ridden hillsides in Kabul and ridden outside and inside the historic Darul Aman Palace. Afghan soldiers, construction workers, police officers, farmers and young boys have ridden my bike. The bike bonds us. In October 2012, I finally found the women. The first time was on a ride in the early morning hours through the streets of Kabul on the way to Darul Aman Palace. I spotted a young girl riding a bike on her way to school. The second was meeting the Afghan men’s national cycling team and learning that their coach also coached a team of women. These women borrow bikes and gear and can only safely train once a week.

Travis Beard

Above: Crossing the Panjshir Valley, Galpin stops in a golden field before turning around on her attempt to summit the 14,000-foot Anjuman Pass to contemplate the accomplishment and enjoy a view few foreigners have seen. Far Left: Taking a break from setting up the Streets of Afghanistan public street art exhibition, Galpin takes a spin on a borrowed bike in the remote village of Istalif. A local man stopped her to share in wonder, “Riding a bike takes a lot of intelligence. I’ve never seen a woman do it.” Left: An early morning ride through Kabul’s streets past a mosque and part of the international INSIDEout photography project with Georgian photographer Mikhail Galustov. Tony Di Zinno

Tony Di Zinno

Travis Beard

Tony Di Zinno

Women are attacked for more “accepted” sports, such as running, soccer and boxing, so something as controversial as cycling is a major risk. They ride in early morning with a dedicated coach who takes them on a different route for each training session. But they are riding. And, technically, as the official women’s national team, they are part of the Afghan Olympic Committee. Riding in Afghanistan often reminds me of books I read about women in cycling in the late 1800s; you can truly come to appreciate how a bike offers freedom, strength and independence. As civil rights leader Susan B. Anthony said: “Let me tell you what I think of bicycling. I think it has done more to emancipate women than anything else in the world. It gives women a feeling of freedom and self-reliance. I stand and rejoice every time I see a woman ride by on a wheel … the picture of free, untrammelled womanhood.” As more women begin to ride in Afghanistan, my hope is that it will become less controversial and less shocking, and, in time, female cyclists in that country will push the gender barriers and claim the bike as their own.

Top: The climb up cemetery hill in the center of Kabul offers a chance to play around on trails that crisscross the top. Left: Galpin rides with Mikhail Galustov inside the historic Darul Aman Palace in Kabul after bribing the Afghan National Army guards with a ride on Galpin’s Alchemy 29er belt drive.

BREWED AND CANNED BY

COME HELL OR HIGH WATER

Words and Images by Shawn Lortie

It was meant to be. It was blessed. It was preordained. The 2013 Elite Cyclocross World Championships were to be held outside of Europe for the first time in its nearly 60-year history. But as anything bestowed with these fates, the road is not always easy. From the start there were haters. From the start there were doubts. But from the start, Sven Nys, the King of Cross, gave it his blessing, saying that it would be a major step toward the internationalization of the sport. A sport that, in the U.S., has grown exponentially in the last decade, driving a whole new industry of bike sales, spawning race series across the States, and creating a huge fan base of hardcore enthusiasts who have learned to appreciate the beauty and the beast that is Cross. But change never comes easily, especially for a European bike culture whose roots run so deep. Many wondered if the terrain at Eva Bandman Park in Louisville, Ky., could offer up a world-class course 61

that would test the best riders from around the world. There were grumblings from the European contingent about all the travel and logistics that would be involved in getting a team of riders and all their necessary ingredients across the pond. And some even wondered if the U.S. fans would show up and support U.S. riders in the desired numbers. The believers knew the fans would be there. The believers knew it would happen. As the weekend of the World Championships drew near, it looked like everything was falling into place. All the major barriers had been overcome. As race day grew closer, there was a building tension at the venue, a palpable feeling of expectation. The Europeans began to arrive. Groups of men in dark jackets adorned with European sponsors and slogans, stood around the course smoking cigarettes and conferring among themselves. Skinny guys in colorful national kits circled the course at high rates of speed, sometimes stopping to consult with the groups of men in dark jackets. Fencing went up, banners were strung, and the cross gods continued to deliver enough moisture to guarantee excellent course conditions in the form of mud, snow and ice. But there was to be one more twist, one more test, before this race could go down in the history books. A 62

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Groups of men in dark jackets adorned with European sponsors and slogans, stood around the course smoking cigarettes and conferring among themselves.

week of unsettled weather left the waters of the Ohio River on the rise, and organizers were forced to move the Elite Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s races from Sunday to Saturday, thus compressing all four races into one frenzied day of racing. TV crews scrambled, racers revamped their training and racing schedules, and travel plans were changed for thousands of fans en route to the event. And then it was race day. The crowds began to arrive early and grew throughout the morning, eventually numbering nearly 10,000 strong. Adult beverages flowed, horns were blown, and bells were rung as the Junior racers took the course for the first race of the day. Then it was the Elite Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s race, and more adult beverages flowed, more horns, more bells. By the time the U23 race went off, the course had turned to a slick ribbon of mud and the noise level was off the charts. The cheers were loudest for the U.S. riders, but the noise never stopped, and when the Elite Men took the course for the final race of the day the energy had reached a fevered pitch that will go down in cyclocross history. The believers knew it would happen.

New snow-free date! CAN YOU ENDURE?

May 18, 2013

DAWN

Gallup, New Mexico

www.ZiaRides.com 65

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T:4.875”

GET READY TO TACKLE LEADVILLE. Train at the Leadville Camp of Champions July 4–7 or July 8–11 with LT100 winners Dave Wiens, Rebecca Rusch, Gretchen Reeves, Bryson Perry and other race legends. DIDN’T GET IN? An extremely limited number of VIP camp registrations include a reserved slot in the 2013 Leadville Trail 100 MTB. Register by contacting Christy at the Leadville Trail 100 offices at 719.219.9351. 66

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DRY HEAVES AND THE SHIVERS TURN MEN TO BOYS ON THE COCONINO TRAIL Words and images by Chris Miller

RECOVERY: Tim Kugler, Matt Steinwand and Zach Guy kick back on the high Colorado Plateau not far from Flagstaff, Ariz., after a solid day of pedaling on the Coconino Trail. 69

LAST APRIL, WITH TUNED BIKES AND A FRESH SUPPLY OF GUMMY WORMS, our intrepid posse of four left the snow-covered valley of Crested Butte, Colo., with our sights on Arizona. Our destination was Flagstaff to embark on a bikepacking adventure through the desert. Upon our arrival, we got derailed by the bountiful watering holes of Flagstaff. A couple of days later and still a bit fuzzy from the local hoppy beers, we embarked on the 250-mile Coconino Trail loop across the diverse landscape of northern Arizona. Scott Morris created the route and shared it via a GPS track on bikepacking.net. The loop passes through the canyon haven of Sedona, across an old lime kiln trail, and even connects with historic Route 66 before looping back through the San Francisco Peaks. When we weren’t whooping and hollering along sections of ripping singletrack, we were cursing Scott Morris during long dirt road grinds. In the end, what we will remember most is how our group embraced, struggled with, and rose up against both the highs and extreme lows of bikepacking. Over the course of the ride, we also learned a few things about desert riding. Eating in Cottonwood at La Hacienda, which is perhaps one of the most tasty and filling restaurants in all of Arizona, is a terrible choice if you plan to follow dinner with the massive climb up Mingus Mountain. After a long day of hot and tiring pedaling through the trails of Sedona, we arrived in Cottonwood with growling stomachs. We all were on a tight off-season budget, so calorieto-cost ratio was always on the mind when dining on the trip. Zach asked the first passer-by, “Where can we get the most amount of food for the least amount of money?” La Hacienda was the place. Before we knew it, we were cheerfully clattering Budweiser bottles together with a massive pile of Mexican food in front of us. We left with bloated bellies into the sunset for Mingus Mountain. Less than an hour into the 5,000-foot climb, one rider was dry heaving off his bike, one was about to pass out on a sharp pile of rocks, and one had resorted to drinking more beer to ease the pain. All riders were in complete misery. It was a beautiful night for a ride, and we were well short of our day’s goal, but La Hacienda knocked us off our bikes like a freight train. Bud Light Lime is freakin’ delicious, especially when served up from roughneck ATVers in the middle of the desert. After topping out on Mingus Mountain the next morning, we enjoyed a ripping descent through free-ride-type trails, suffered some hot and sweaty ATV roads through no-man’sland, and then plummeted to the lowest part of the route along the Verde River. It was Cinco de Mayo. Spandex-clad on our bicycles, we rolled up to several ATV groups slugging back 30 racks alongside the river. Any sense of dignity and pride we had was left on the slopes of Mingus Mountain, so a couple of us approached a circle of large, tough-looking roughnecks, who passed off a handful of Bud Light Limes. I’ve 70

SHRED-PACKING: Tim Kugler grabs some air off the uber-flowy trails on the back side of Mingus Mountain.

never had a Bud Light Lime; as a beer snob, I normally prefer a hoppy microbrew. I questioned the Bud Lights that these tough guys ironically drank, but when it hit the back of my throat under the Arizona sun, it made sense. We couldn’t think of a better way to celebrate Cinco de Mayo than sipping a cold Bud Light Lime in the dry heat, as ATVs buzzed us with dust. We temporarily forgot about the climb to come. The desert is not all hot and flat. The climb out of the Verde River valley was a heartbreaker. Despite each of us having at least one Colorado Trail Race under our belt, the endless dirt road climb crushed the spirit of our group and deserved a “Scott Morris kidney punch.” The desert also did not live up to its reputation of being swelteringly hot all the time. With some of our nights spent as high as 8,000 feet, the temps would plummet, and we’d wake up shivering in our lightweight sleeping bags. Frozen water bottles? This is Arizona! One guy, who was sporting little more than a warm sheet for a sleeping bag, resorted to burying hot rocks from the fire. It kept him warm at night, albeit while burning holes in his pad. After four nights out, we arrived back to the “Green Room,” which had become our favorite watering hole in Flagstaff. We were a bit crusty, but then again, so were the locals. The cliché saying “It’s about the journey” could not be more true. As we refilled our mugs with well-deserved beer, we laughed and recounted stories of our journey up, down and across Arizona.

Top: BACK IN THE DUFF: The trails above Flagstaff provide a magic carpet ride back into city limits. Left: UNDER THE SEDONA SUN: Matt Steinwand,Tim Kugler and Zach Guy regret the amount of suds they consumed the night before.

ANGEL FIRE/TAOS: May 18 & 19 Presented by CRESTED BUTTE: June 29 & 30 KEYSTONE: July 6 & 7 DURANGO: August 31 & September 1 MOAB: September 28 & 29 2013 schedule is subject to change

W W W. B I G M O U N TA I N E N D U R O . C O M 72

Design by Nicholas B. Ontiveros - 2headedkid.com

twenty2 cycles

ti bully

Price: $5,700 Weight: 25.3 lbs www.Twenty2Cycles.com

Brian Riepe

ACCELERATING UP THE FIRST HILL, I WAS STUNNED BY THE AGILITY AND CLIMBING prowess of the Twenty2 Cycles Bully on sections of trail I had struggled with days prior on another fat bike. This titanium behemoth is a unique machine, striving to blur the lines between race bike and fat bike. Strategically centered in Vail, Colo., in the heart of the Rockies, Twenty2 Cycles chose titanium as its namesake (atomic element number 22) and often (but not exclusively) the material of choice to create innovative and unique off-road bicycles. From its inception in 2010 Twenty2’s goal has been to “create a brand that provides high quality USA-made bikes and provide our clients with unmatched customer support,” explains Ryan Van Ness, a partner in the brand’s ownership. “Our mission is to be able to quickly adapt to new standards and remain progressive in our own frame designs.”

Creating a variety of stock and custom frame options, Twenty2 Cycles has carved a unique niche for themselves with an array of fat bikes, cross bikes and 29ers romping the dirt and snow around the country and soon, if all goes as planned, the world. Twenty2 has embraced the fat bike trend with the Bully. Available in both steel and ti models, the Bully brings together many of the newest custom frame and material technologies. Hand-crafted utilizing 3Al/2.5V titanium tubing and a 100-mm 6/4 ti bottom bracket, Breezer-style dropouts, and 40-mm headtube, the Bully can be purchased as either a stock sized or custom frame. Our stock medium test rig was built up light, weighing in at 25.3 pounds, making it a jealousy magnet for my fat-riding buddies The Bully, needless to say, is a distinct bike designed to conquer a variety of terrain options from snow-packed roads to desert sand traps. It’s like a bulldozer but still extremely fun to ride. On the snow, the Bully offers a responsive and predictable ride, much like that of a finely tuned race rig, with a geometry more similar to a traditional mountain bike than the typically long and laid-back fat bikes

we’ve been seeing. This will appeal to those wanting a more maneuverable bike over a touring rig. The 17.5-inch chainstays situate the rear wheel right below the bulk of your weight making slippery, snow-covered climbs more manageable. As a whole, the Bully was comfortable yet racy. It was a blast to ride on all terrain, transforming normally slow-speed fat biking into two-wheeled hooliganism with big skids at every intersection (yeah, it’s OK to skid on snow, bro), two-wheel drifts in every corner, and slightly out-of-control-pinballdownhill track sessions. While I found the Bully to work exceptionally in the snow, it also performed surprisingly well on dry trails due to its light weight and tight geometry. It was easy to handle through technical sections and wideopen sections of trail without being twitchy on climbs. “Our designer, Todd, designed the first Bully the way we wanted a fatty to ride, yearround high performance from singletrack to snowpack,” Van Ness says. “We started with the shortest chainstays ever produced on a fatty, carefully selected tubing diameters to keep the headtube length in check, and used our favorite 29er geometry with a few key changes in fork rake, trail and bb height.” 75

Brian Riepe

These distinctive characteristics make the Twenty2 stand out, and the Bully can easily become a lifelong investment offering yearround fun. Working with Twenty2 Cycles to build a Bully of your own could be a fulfilling experience, with customers given many build options depending upon budget and riding preference. With the ability to make design alterations, Twenty2 continues to tweak and refine its frame choices, integrating the latest in technologies like belt drive or internal hub compatibility. “Being a small company we also have the ability to quickly fabricate custom designs tailor-made to the client’s needs whether that be racing, expedition, bikepacking, commuting, etcetera,” Van Ness continues. “We currently have the only 135-offset belt drive Rohloff-certified ti fat bike and hope to continue to progress with unique builds like it.” Our test build was spec’d as a race build and features a 1x9 drivetrain utilizing a neat little Paul Components chain guide with a SRAM X0 rear derailleur and shifter paired with a fat bike-specific, 100-mm wide RaceFace Turbine crank. Keeping with the 76

Xavier Fané

race trend, Twenty2 chose the lightweight limited-edition orange Surly Marge rim laced to Hope Pro 2 Evo hubs. The ever-so-stylish White Brothers Snowpack Carbon fork offers a nice contrast to the simple elegance of the Bully’s ti frame while also providing an uber-stiff front end. 720-mm wide Race Face Next carbon bars and Next stem create a light yet shred-ready cockpit, which pairs nicely with the elegant Chris King inset headset. Unlike most budget-oriented fat bikes, this build was outfitted with Avid Elixir 9 hydraulic brakes, offering a superior touch compared to other fat bikes I have ridden (which are often spec’d with cable actuated brakes for their simplicity). The Bully is a high-end fat bike with all the modern amenities.

Whether you’re looking for a way to ride snow or sand or just a new riding experience on the dirt, the Twenty2 Cycles Ti Bully is a truly unique rig. Its feathery weight and progressive geometry make it stand out among other fat bikes while allowing a rider to really break the barriers of fat bike perception. Although our test Bully was built with no expense spared, Twenty2 Cycles is happy to build one within your budget. If a fat bike purchase is looming on your horizon and having the same bike as your buddies is less than appealing, the Bully is a great option. The Bully’s geometry creates a ride like no other, and the ti frame can be built up ultralight. Ripping around on the Bully has given me a new love for fat bikes. —J. Carr

E s t. 2 0 08

h Australia Sout

RO ME L SE

foundry

broadaxe

Price: $2,950 Weight: 24.2 lbs www.FoundryCycles.com

Brian Riepe

MATTE CARBON, UNDERSTATED GRAPHICS, CLEAN LINES AND

stout aesthetics stand out so the practical part of this machine doesn’t have to. Take a brief glance at the Foundry Broadaxe, and its purpose is apparent: It’s a simple, no-frills 29er carbon hardtail with well-thought-out features that make it definitively utilitarian. If you’re looking for a flashy, logo-filled carbon race bike to go with that matching team kit, look elsewhere. The Broadaxe is a tool for riding Retailing at $2,950 our X7 spec’d Broadaxe is priced competitively compared to other carbon hardtails on the market, but functional touches such as a rear thru axle, pressfit BB and a killer 10-year warranty make it stand out against similarly priced hardtails. At the heart of the Broadaxe is a monocoque carbon frame weighing in at 2.2 pounds. This visually stunning frame features strategically shaped tubes that make for an efficient ride. Straight, flat seatstays allow for some flex and contribute to the frame’s forgiving ride characteristics. Substantial tube junctions add to the bike’s eloquence and

stiffness; it gives the feathery frame a stout appearance and surprisingly responsive feel under pressure. Rounding out the clean, simple frame, internal cable routing not only aids in the aesthetics, it also quiets chatter often created by cable and frame contact. The Broadaxe is offered in three budgetsensitive build options with the base at $2,950, a mid-level X9-equipped bike at $3,700, and a high-end race spec featuring a full XTR build at $5,800. All include a top-to-bottom spec of the specific level of components. No matter which build package you choose, the Broadaxe carbon frameset remains unchanged. All builds come with handbuilt wheels laced to Stan’s No Tubes rims for easy tubeless compatibility. On the trail, the Broadaxe was much more capable than I would have imagined. Quick and responsive were its most notable attributes upon the initial ride, and as I became accustomed to the bike, its playfulness and prowess emerged. On technical trails the Broadaxe was quick and maneuverable while the 27.2 seatpost coupled with the unique flat seatstays made for a reasonably smooth ride Descending was comfortable and predictable, but the Broadaxe is by no means a Cadillac. Its knack for efficiency and stiffness make it a great bike in many respects, but if you’re looking for a supple hardtail look elsewhere (think steel). The simplicity of the

Broadaxe appealed to my inner free agent while the well-thought-out features made it as capable and fast as any hardtail I’ve raced. Its 71.5-degree headtube angle creates a stable but not overly slack feel that fits well for the bike’s intended XC use. At 24.2 pounds with SRAM X7 components, the Broadaxe pushes the competitive button, and I found myself striving for KOMs on every ride. But its price tag leaves some money in your wallet for the better things in life (like race entry fees). Though I occasionally prefer handbuilt wheels, I found the stock handbuilt Stan’s wheels to be a bit flexy when paired with the train-track precision of the Broadaxe’s carbon frameset. When outfitted with the trail-oriented Mavic Crossmax ST and some burlier WTB tires, the Broadaxe took a whole new shape as a proficient trail hardtail. Though racer types may prefer the lighter stock wheels, many of the new 29er wheels can transform the bike to meet varying riding styles. As a race bike or an everyday mountain bike, the Foundry Broadaxe offers a nice balance of modern carbon frame technology in a reasonably priced package. Depending on your budget and wants in a bike, the Broadaxe fills the niche for riders looking for a high-end lightweight hardtail that is trail worthy and comes with a great warranty. —J. Carr 79

The difference between a snappy, rocketship 29er and a dull, boat anchor of a bike can be as simple as swapping out the low-end stock wheelset that came with your rig. Any upgrade in wheels will inevitably improve your bikeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s handling and efficiency while also giving it that high-end look, but with so many options, which ones best fit your needs? With a wide assortment of trail-oriented 29ers now available, wheel manufacturers are finally catching up to the demand. Here are a few nice offerings for 2013. â&#x20AC;&#x201C;J. Carr

trail wheels

Easton EC70 Trail 29 Carbon | Price: $1,850 | Weight: 1,460 grams The new EC70 Trail carbon wheel offers a paired down version of Easton’s flagship EC90 carbon wonder wheel with a relatively more reasonable price tag. At 1,460 grams the wheels weigh just 44 grams more than their high-end counterpart. Their light weight makes them race-friendly, while their 20-mm internal rim width will make them appealing to trail riders. The nonconvertible front hub—the same as in Easton’s EA90 aluminum wheels—comes in standard quick release or 15mm thru axle options, and the rear comes in a 10x135 mm quick-release or a convertible model that accepts 12x135 mm or 12x142 mm thru axles. The wheels are handbuilt

with double-butted straight pull spokes and aluminum nipples. Although the EC70s offer many attributes of their high-end brother, they lack two important components. First, Easton’s armored ballistic composite is missing. This is a key ingredient that increases durability significantly in both of Easton’s higher-end carbon wheels. Second is UST certification, which to some is well worth the extra $800 price jump, though the EC70s are tubeless compatible utilizing one of the many kits on the market. At 1,460 grams, the EC70 Trail wheels are guaranteed to drop the most weight while still saving some coin.

Specialized Roval Control Trail SL 29 Carbon | Price: $1,700 | Weight: 1,530 grams Adding a set of durable, trail-ready carbon hoops is the most effective upgrade you can make to your 29er. The Roval Control Trail SL has a 21-mm internal rim width, which pairs nicely with wider 29er tires creating a bomber yet lightweight setup. Mounted up tubeless (nonUST) utilizing the included 2Bliss rim tape and valves, the Control Trail SL added a noticeable improvement over my stock aluminum wheels. At the center of these hoops is a DT Swiss-made hub that offers

tried-and-true DT reliability and serviceability. With a 240-pound rider weight limit, these lightweight trail hoops can take a beating and keep on spinning. Replaceable end caps are included, making the hubs compatible with 9- or 15-mm front and 12x135 mm or 12x142 mm axles out back. These wheels make a worthy upgrade that will transform your bike to a new level of uphill performance and downhill durability.

Shimano XT 29er Trail | Price: $699 | Weight: 1,820 grams With a reasonable price tag well below $1,000, this mid-level 29er Trail wheel is Shimano’s answer to the growing 29er trail bike segment; these are also available in a “race” version that are more expensive. Shimano utilizes its tried-and-true cup and cone hubs that offer full adjustability and are easily serviced. An updated, dual pawl hub provides relatively quick engagement while the shell’s profile offers better spoke alignment claimed to stiffen the wheel. With 24 butted stainless steel spokes laced to a 21-mm wide (internal) full UST aluminum rim, these wheels are durable and reasonably light,

and the tubeless setup is solid. The Trail wheels weigh in about 175 grams more than the 19-mm wide race version but offer a much better platform for any tire wider than 2.2 inches. Available as a 15-mm or 9-mm front and 9-mm QR rear, the XT 29er Trail is lacking a bit on axel compatibility. At $699, the XT Trail wheels are a relatively inexpensive upgrade as long as you don’t have a 12x142 mm rear end. The XT 29 Trail wheels offer a stiff and reliable platform with a full UST rim for working class trail riders looking to upgrade without breaking the bank.

Crankbrothers Iodine 3 29 | Price: $900 | Weight: 1,860 grams With crankbrothers’ distinctive spoke design, the new tubeless compatible Iodine 29 is aimed at the ever-growing 29er trail market. A redesigned rim profile, with a 21-mm internal width, was created to withstand additional stress posed by trail riders while also forming a great platform for wider 2.3- to 2.5-inch tires. The Iodine 29 is a strong 29er wheel—gaining extra strength by connecting the spokes to a vertical rib in the rim rather than through holes drilled in the rim wall—offering a significant jump in stiffness when replacing that

stock wheelset. A new convertible rear hub allows for compatibility between 10x135mm and 12x142mm while the front hub is convertible between 15- and 20-mm thru axles. Other features include a unique two-stage quick release lever, an alloy freehub body and proprietary hollow alloy spoke sections (the thicker “nipples” that connect the short steel spokes to the hubs) with sapim stainless steel spokes. If you’re a bigger rider or overly abusive on 29er hoops, the Iodine is a high-end wheel designed to take the abuse.

gear Kitsbow Sastan Jersey Price: $327 www.Kitsbow.com That’s right, a $300 jersey, but this jersey is not only one of the best I’ve worn, it offers a level of global responsibility rarely seen in the mountain bike apparel market. Hang up that Lycra team kit and check out the technical features of Kitsbow’s introductory technical trail jersey, the Sastan. Quilted shoulders provide cushion and grip for pack straps; well-placed, zippered side pockets provide quick access to small items without bulking up underneath a pack; articulated elbows with reinforced minimalist padding add subtle protection for shredding; and a handy microfiber cloth inside the chest pocket lets you easily clean your lenses. Handmade in British Columbia using only sustainably produced merino wool and Cordura from New Zealand and Australia, Kitsbow has set the bar for quality, style and function with the Sastan.

Fix It Sticks Multi-tool Price: $25 www.FixItSticks.com Built and sourced in the U.S., the minimalist design of Fix It Sticks offers a new perspective to multi-tools. “Using a three-way wrench last winter, I was struck by the simplicity of the design and the ability to gain leverage,” explains Fix It Sticks founder Brian Davis. With customizable heads (chosen at time of purchase), riders are able to create a multitool that covers bolts specific to their own bike, making it a great tool if carrying only the bare essentials. It would, however, be nice to see an 8- or 10-mm hex key integrated into the design to create a more useable tool for those pesky crank bolts that work themselves loose at the wrong time. Fix It Sticks’ simple design and greatly improved leverage compared to fold-out multi-tools make a great addition to any repair kit, just make sure it includes the correct wrenches to work with bolts on your bike.

Fox D.O.S.S. Height Adjust Seatpost Price: $439 | Weight: 633g www.RideFox.com Reliability is the defining term with the Fox D.O.S.S (Drop on Steep Shit) height adjustable post. Designed to compete in the highly competitive but not quite perfected dropper post market, the D.O.S.S. holds its own with well-engineered mechanical internals and a simple cable-actuated remote. At first glance, the huge, dual-lever remote was a bit of a turn off, but its functionality shines on the trail: The outer lever allows for full drop and extension, and the inner lever drops the post to a middle “trail” setting (a nice option for mixed, rolling terrain). On the trail, if the D.O.S.S. fails, it can be locked into fully extended mode, unlike other dropper posts. Height adjustable seatposts offer an experiencechanging upgrade for riders looking to improve their technical riding skills, and the D.O.S.S. offers all the benefits in a simple, functional and reliable system.

45NRTH Wölvhammer Winter Boots Price: $325 www.45NRTH.com Focused specifically on the cold weather needs of cyclists, 45Nrth is in its introductory season, but you wouldn’t tell by glancing at its extremely popular new winter footwear. The SPD-compatible Wölvhammer is a great addition to any cyclist’s shoe rack for the cold months. Although product availability is limited due to the company’s launch this year, 45Nrth hit the nail on the head with this well-designed boot. Originated from a mountaineering boot, the Wölvhammer provides 200 grams of Thinsulate insulation paired with a Nasa-utilized aerogel insole that blocks cold from steel cleats and pedals. The exterior combines a durable 1,000-denier Cordura upper with a waterproof-breathable Sympatex membrane to keep moisture out. The unique two-part construction allows for the integration of an outer gaiter that works wonders at keeping snow out. A Vibram sole provides excellent grip on any slippery surface and removable toe spikes offer added traction.

Sombrio Highline Short Price: $179 www.SombrioCartel.com Creating a hip, functional clothing line that would perform well in the moisture-soaked British Columbia mountains inspired Sombrio founder Dave Watson to leap into the apparel industry. After 14 years, Sombrio’s style has evolved with the sport and has remained consistent with Watson’s vision. The Highline short combines Sombrio’s Epik fit (midknee, tapered cut, snug in all the right places) with a durable four-way stretch fabric treated in a DWR coating. The result is all-day comfort and weather protection in a stylish, understated short that won’t cramp your postride pub style. With cleverly placed zippered thigh vents and deep pockets, the Highline quickly became my go-to short for MTB rides. My favorite feature of the Highline shorts is a well-placed rear pocket that sits centered right below your pack at the top of the short. It’s pretty obvious the guys at Sombrio spend a good amount of time on the trail.

Hero Kit Mountain Bike Repair Kit Price: $45 www.HeroKit.com Packed with the most commonly needed but often left behind trail necessities, the Hero Kit packages it all within a durable waterproof Ziploc-style bag that fits easily in your jersey pocket or pack. The kit includes a steel multi-tool with a T25, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2.5 and 2mm hex keys, Phillips and flathead drivers, chain tool and a spoke wrench. Also included are a derailleur cable, patch kit with tire levers, cleat bolt, waterbottle cage bolt, duct tape, 9- and 10-speed quick links, zip ties, water purification tablets, and multi-use wipes. Simple instructions also assist beginner mechanics with some basic field repairs (such as installing a cable) encountered when out on a ride. If you head out on the trail with nothing more than your bike and a waterbottle, the Hero Kit is a great addition to keep you self-sufficient on every ride. 83

GO AHEAD AND INHALE IT’S TIME TO TRY A

FATTY by Jordan Carr

Gaining speed as I descend, I feel my tires break loose ever so slightly around each snow-covered corner. A fresh layer of snow sits atop the frozen dirt as I drift and float the monstrous tires through each pillowy corner. Flowy singletrack and fresh powder bring a smile to my face as I experience the euphoric combination for the first time. The trail is one I frequent during the summer months, but until this winter, I’ve never been able to match the adrenaline-filled enjoyment I feel on the dry dirt of this high-speed, rocky trail. Slowly gaining momentum from consumers over the past four to five years, fat bike popularity has exploded in the past year, and the head-turning rigs are becoming a common sight out on the trails, including the singletrack routes we pedal in the summertime and even groomed cross country skiing tracks. Changes in snow conditions keep exploration fresh even in your own backyard, and plowing through 4 to 5 inches of fresh snow on your favorite trail brings a whole new meaning to an epic powder day. Whether you’re traversing snowmobile-packed trails through the mountains, floating down a narrow singletrack, punching across a groomed ski trail or even cruising along sandy ocean front beaches, fat bikes open the door to a 84

Chad Melis

whole new layer of riding options no matter where you live. Mike “Kid” Riemer, marketing manager for Salsa, says that because fat bikes are so versatile, the company has never viewed them as a trend. “We see them as perhaps the most capable bicycles ever developed. They can ride places other bikes can’t,” Riemer says, noting that the company has reliable sales in the Midwest, Alaska and the mountain states. “Some places are behind the curve still though and aren’t realizing the potential these bikes have and the fun they help their owner’s experience. Too many people are still thinking of fat bikes as snow bikes. They aren’t just snow bikes—they are anywhere bikes,” Riemer adds. As popularity of these bikes has grown so has product availability; 2012 Interbike showcased hundreds of products from a wide spectrum of manufacturers. Minnesota-based Surly was one of the first to embrace fat biking with its mass-produced Pugsley. Other companies, such as Salsa and 45Nrth, have continued the evolution of the fat bike, and smaller manufacturers are springing up all over the U.S., a few specializing strictly in fatties. Alaska-based Fatback and 907 Fatbikes are a few that have grown significantly due in part to their location, early adoption and affordable builds. “We really strive to continue to improve fat bikes and have always worked with riders to make the experience better,” says Greg Matyas, owner of Fatback. “We work really closely with ultra-athlete Pete Basinger [the 2011 Iditabike winner], who has been a great resource for development.” Salsa’s family of fat bikes includes two models, the Mukluk and the Beargrease, which have very different geometry and design features. The Beargrease is aimed at racing, and the company bills the Mukluk as its “explore based” fat bike. Other manufacturers, such as Colorado-based Twenty2 Cycles, have taken a different approach to fat bike construction and geometry. “Our goal was to make it ride like a normal trail-oriented mountain bike,” Todd Robison of Twenty2 Cycles says about its titanium Bully. (See review, page 74.) “We also wanted to push the

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limits of the fat bike trend, looking for unique ways to integrate various features and components.” As a result of industry innovations, fat bikes present an even greater chance to explore a variety of conditions. When paired with a groomed or packed snowy trail, these rigs take a whole new shape, one offering speed and exhilaration. With the recent surge in popularity, fat bikers are also becoming a recognized user group in some areas traditionally groomed for XC skiers and snowmobilers. Conjuring up ways to manage bikes on Nordic trails has become a touchy subject for many Nordic centers and ski areas around the country, but some are embracing the sport enthusiastically. Although, many believe the monstrous tires can float effortlessly atop any snow condition, they are more at home and efficient on packed or groomed snow like that found at a Nordic center, ski resort or on snowmobile trails. Currently, winter riding is a bit of a concern to trail managers and advocacy groups due to potential user conflicts on groomed Nordic trails. Many public land areas offer groomed trails for snowmobiling, Nordic skiing and snowshoeing, often groomed by a local club or organization. These areas are a great place to get out on your fat bike, but it is important to be courteous of the area’s intended uses. “Upon our announcement this fall that we were going to open the trails to winter fat bike riding, the skiers were up in arms,” explains Kristen Smith of the Methow Valley Sport Trails Association in Winthrop, Wash. “We had letters to the editor at our local paper that were very critical of this idea. There was a huge fear that the bikes would damage the trails, that the skiers would be run over by the bikers, etc.” One of the nation’s largest Nordic ski areas, Methow Valley Sport Trails has included a travel plan that includes fat bikes on a selection of the area’s 120-plus miles of groomed XC ski terrain. Currently limited to a handful of trails and dependent on conditions, the Methow Valley Sport Trails Association hopes to continue to open 86

terrain to fat bikes if the pilot program is successful. “Since we have been running the program … we have had no issues to date. We have hosted three free fat bike demos with the goal of getting as many people as we can out on the bikes and out on the trails. They are amazed that generally they can’t even find the fat bike tire imprint in the snow among all the ski marks,” Smith continues. “We have had a number of people since come in and apologize for their pessimism.” Smith says some have even shown interest by asking about the bikes and sport and stating, “That is so cool.” When she rides, Smith gives skiers an opportunity to unclip out of their skis and give it a try. “They just love it,” she says. Western Wyoming’s Grand Targhee resort recently allowed fat biking on its Nordic trails, while Eddie Clark many resorts in Colorado currently allow after-hours terrain usage to fat bikes. Many ski town-based fat bikers have even begun organizing nighttime group rides around area ski hills. Glenwood Springs, Colo.-based Gear Exchange is an example of a shop that has passionately embraced the fat bike culture. “We have seen a huge influx in fat bike sales over the past year, about 30-plus left the shop last year,” says Darin Binion, an owner at Gear Exchange. “We all ride them and go to the events, so customers see us out and are excited about it. We put together local group rides, which really give the bikes that much more appeal, if you can go ride and have fun with friends.” Races and events are taking place all over the country now with series popping up from Washington to Wisconsin and everywhere in between. Leadville, Colo., is home to a winter series that hosts three races over the course of the winter. The first and most popular, held at Copper Mountain, attracts well over 100 participants with a good number of them aboard fat bikes. “As the trend continues to grow and more riders own fat bikes, the winter part of the sport is only going to get better,” explains Sterling Mudge, director of the Leadville Winter Series. “It’s obvious how it’s grown in just the past three years; fat bikes were a rarity at our races early on, and now it seems like everyone has one.” The Leadville series offers a variety of winter courses from the Copper Mountain Race, which takes place at the base of the ski area, to a night race at the Tennessee Pass Nordic Center. Though the Nordic center allows bikes on their trails only for the race, Mudge sees it as a step in the right direction. What started out as a specialty tool for the 1,100-mile Iditabike race has unexpectedly grown into a whole new segment for the sport of cycling. The rise in popularity of fat bikes has spurred more innovation and more specialty products to go with it, and riders have invented new ways to utilize the technology. But what it really comes down to is fat bikes open up new opportunities to ride, and they’re really fun to ride. Roll one up and get a new high.

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Edgar Chavez has been around custom bike-builders since age 15. He now owns and operates Chavez Bikes, where he repairs carbon frames and builds complete framesets. 90

Mike Riepe

by Jen See Every day after school, Edgar Chavez waited for his uncle to finish work at Calfee Designs and, over time, the teenaged Chavez grew increasingly intrigued by the activity in the Calfee workshop. Bored with waiting, the energetic Chavez began doing random work around the shop, including helping sand the carbon framesets. “Carbon fiber and bikes, I was surprised, because it was new for me,” Chavez recently told Mountain Flyer. But it was the beginning of his lengthy relationship with carbon bicycles and the messy business of building them. After high school, Chavez spent more than 10 years working for carbon pioneer Craig Calfee. Now Chavez has his own repair business and builds complete custom framesets. Ever ambitious, Chavez has always sought to learn new skills and create new projects. When he was 15, Chavez came to the United States from Mexico, where he lived in Tamazula, Jalisco, a town surrounded by sugarcane fields southeast of Puerto Vallarta. His father was a machinist, and hanging around his father’s shop, Chavez learned to machine stainless steel. When he arrived in the United States, he went to live in Santa Cruz County, also the home base for carbon framebuilder Calfee. “After school, I used to stop by Calfee to get my ride home,” he said. Chavez’s uncle already worked at Calfee, and his brother also took a job there. After Chavez finished high school, he too began working for Calfee full time. It is a typical pattern at the company. “We find new workers through the people who already work here,” Calfee said. Chavez began with the most basic tasks of the production process. “I started at the very bottom, doing the sanding,” he said. After the carbon is laid and the resin dries, workers sand the frames to smooth the finish. Chavez quickly grew impatient doing the low-level work and wanted to learn new skills. “Every time I start doing good, I would move on to something new,” he explained. Before long, he had learned the steps involved in building a complete frameset. About 10 years ago, Calfee started doing repair work on carbon bikes. “Nobody else in the world was doing repairs,” Chavez said. He was especially interested in learning from the broken frames. As he fixed them, Chavez looked carefully at how they failed. In one case, Chavez fixed a discarded bike and ended up riding it himself.

“He was one of the first guys at Calfee to repair a bike made by another manufacturer,” Calfee said. Eventually, Chavez wanted to create his own designs, so in 2006, he left Calfee and opened his own business, Road Runner Velo. At RR Velo, Chavez set out to make custom carbon bikes by hand with the help of his brother, Luis. To promote his new business, Chavez traveled to the 2009 North American Handmade Bicycle Show (NAHBS) in Indianapolis. There, he met John Siegrist of DEAN Bicycles. The two men hit it off, and after the show they kept in contact. Siegrist viewed Chavez as a craftsman like him. “Edgar does what we do, but with carbon,” said Siegrist, who is well-known in the bike industry for his work with titanium. Two years ago, the wheels came off for RR Velo, which forced Chavez to regroup. “Unfortunately, I opened it at the wrong time,” Chavez said of his company. “The economy went down really bad, and I had the wrong partners.” For a time, he dropped out of the industry altogether. “I kind of disappeared from the bike industry. I was not even going to the shows.” After spending so many years honing his skills as a carbon craftsman, however, Chavez could not stay away. Soon he opened a new company under the name Chavez Bikes, which he runs today. His main business is repairing carbon bikes, but he also builds complete framesets. “I built two bikes for a shop in San Jose, Calif., and the guy loved the bike. The customers there, they loved the bikes,” Chavez said. Additionally, Chavez began doing contract work for other framebuilders, and he contacted his NAHBS friend, Siegrist, about the possibility of designing a bike together. Several years ago, Siegrist began experimenting with carbon. His early designs combined titanium and carbon, and Chavez hoped to work with Siegrist on a carbon-titanium bike. In collaboration with Enve Composites in Utah, Siegrist developed a design that involved wrapping titanium tubing with carbon. At his shop in Boulder, Colo., Siegrist machined down the titanium until the walls of the tubes were 0.20 inches thick. Then he sent the tubesets to Enve, where a thin layer of carbon was laid over the titanium. “The tensile strength that you’ve lost and the durability and the stiffness you’ve lost in that tubeset when you were butting 91

Chavez first learned about bike-building under pioneer Craig Calfee of Calfee Design and has since collaborated with other framebuilders, including John Siegrist of DEAN Bicycles. Chavez had a short run as an independent builder under the name Road Runner Velo and most recently launched Chavez Bikes. Mike Riepe

it is gained back,” Siegrist said. “But it was really still considered a metal bike.” At first, Siegrist and Chavez planned to develop a similar mixed titanium and carbon frameset, but that project did not immediately take off. About six months passed before Siegrist contacted Chavez again. This time, Siegrist wanted to build a full carbon frameset with Chavez. Chavez jumped at the opportunity, and this past March at the North American Handmade Bicycle Show in Sacramento, Calif., Siegrist and Chavez showed a new handbuilt carbon frameset. Drawing on his long experience with building custom bikes, Siegrist manages the ordering process with customers, determining frame size and what they want out of a bike then sends Chavez the tubes and specs to make that bike. When he builds a custom frameset, Chavez begins with a tubeset, and then handwraps the joints with carbon tow and resin. The tow, which consists of thousands of single strands of carbon fiber bundled together, comes on a roll like kite string. Chavez uses 50k tow, which has 50,000 individual carbon fibers. He wraps the tow mixed with resin to form the joints of the bike. “For each frame, it’s about 20 feet long, and then we start basically wrapping each union or joint, with that piece of tow.” The process Chavez uses is called a “wet lay-up,” which is typical of custom carbon work. For more large-scale production, many manufacturers will use carbon that is preimpregnated with resin. The carbon is molded, then the framesets are heated to release the resin. Regardless of how the bike is built, the designer’s choices 92

about the number of strands in the tow and the elasticity of the carbon fibers influence how the finished frameset will ride. Wrapping the tow is complicated due to the material’s characteristics. The fibers in the tow run in a single direction, and the carbon is strongest in the direction the fibers align. “It gets hand-wrapped in many directions. This way, we avoid the frame or joints from having weak spots.” Chavez wraps the tow as tightly as possible, and it’s “very slow,” he says. After he wraps the tow, Chavez removes the excess resin from the joint. “If there’s a lot of resin on the inside, it’s going to create a hole,” he said. “We try to squeeze out every drop of resin.” The strength of the bike comes from the carbon fiber, not the resin. Too much resin, and the bike will break or the ride quality will suffer. A frameset with too much resin can feel wooden and lifeless. Chavez also uses heat on the joints as he wraps them. “We treat the joint with heat, so the heat draws out of the rest of the resin. So it gets tighter.” Though Chavez gives the joints of some of his bikes a lugged look, he does not use lugs on his frames. “We grind to make different shapes, to make it look like a lug, because that’s something that a lot of people like.” The resulting bikes are cutting-edge technology, but the tools to make them are relatively commonplace. Chavez uses a miter saw to make precision cuts in the tubes and joints, a fixture holds

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the frames in place, and a sander for the finish work. “There are a lot of companies that presume that they have Though some of his bikes have a lugged the best tools and the best molds, and look, he does not use lugs on his frames. Rather, he grinds the joints to make different they have this very nice jig that costs shapes, sometimes to look like a lug. $5,000 or $15,000,” Chavez said. He contends that his craftsmanship makes a longer-lasting frameset than the big manufacturers’ expensive machines. The process of wrapping the tow and squeezing requires strong and patient hands, and the finished frameset relies heavily on how carefully it is done. According to Calfee, it requires both a good design and careful production to make a carbon frameset that will last. A good design poorly executed is not going to last, but a bad design, even with good assembly, will also fail. “When a bike fails, it’s rarely the material,” Calfee told Mountain Flyer. “A carbon bike should last longer for just regular riding because metal fatigues while carbon doesn’t.” The emphasis on hand-building and craft is important to DEAN’s Siegrist. “There’s nothing like a custom bike,” he said. “The day that I stand in front of a lathe and cut 25 tubes to make 25 production style frames, that is the day I do something else.” Working with Chavez allows Siegrist to offer custom carbon framesets that fit his ethos. “A lot of the carbon stuff that’s being put out on the market now is what I call a ‘red bike,‘... There’s nothing really magical about it,” he said. Plus, Chavez builds to the precise needs of each rider. “We can build anything. We can build whatever the customer needs,” Chavez said. For riders who need a really strong bike, Chavez can add material to the bottom bracket and head tube. For a climber, Chavez can design a lighter bike with less material. Chavez is partially color blind, so his personal bikes are typically painted only in black, red and white, the colors he can distinguish. He also has one bike in his shop that he does not ride and that is not for sale because he is so proud of how it turned out. “I don’t ride it because I don’t want to mess it up!” In addition to building bikes, Chavez occasionally does other projects with carbon. About eight years ago, he built the entire interior of a car out of carbon fiber. Carbon fiber fabrication is still a relatively new technology and there is plenty of space for innovation. “With metal frames, humans have like 10,000 years of experience.Since the bronze age, we’ve been developing skills to work with metal,” Calfee said. “We’ve only been working since World War II with high-performance composites. So we only have around 60 years experience.” For a restless character like Chavez, it seems like a perfect fit. “The way I am, I always want to learn something new and try something different,” he said. 94

Mike Riepe

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Invincible There are things I should know about him. He’s my big brother, after all, only seven years my senior. He sits hunched with his legs folded to his chest on a blue loveseat in his living room; it’s the only position that will ease the pain from the cancer taking over his abdomen. We talk bikes and he asks about the Leadville Trail 100. It’s just days away, and he wants to go watch his best friend earn a shiny buckle. Growing up, my oldest brother existed for only one reason: to be my protector. He pulled me from the deep end of a swimming pool once after I slipped helplessly off the edge and sunk toward the bottom. To cheer me up, he’d shove mashed potatoes in his mouth and squeeze them back out by pressing his cheeks together with his hands. I adored him and his shiny orange Nova he wrenched on when he was in high school. He still works on cars and has a small collection that have been pimped out for the 4-wheel-roads of Moab and the like. Even after too much chemo wrecked the feeling in his fingertips, he continued refinishing his wife’s 1964 steel blue Chevelle and changed out the radiator on my sister’s van. He lives for fly fishing and skipping handmade flies on the clean rivers and lakes of Colorado. But I had never known about the mountain biking fishing trip he took to Venable Lakes (which is now in official wilderness) in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains in southern Colorado. It was the early ’90s, and he and his closest fishing buddy filled up their backpacks and strapped panniers and fishing rods to their steel klunkers. They walked a lot; the bikes were heavy, and it was steep getting up to the high alpine lakes above treeline. After they’d fished and camped, it was time to descend, so they started down the narrow sidehill trail, bouncing over scree. As they approached the evergreen forest, he told his friend, “Whatever you do, don’t use your brakes, don’t stop. Be ready for those roots, sit as far back as you can and just let it ride. Don’t brake.” It wasn’t an act of skill or bravado; he just didn’t think the weighted bikes would stop. As they bombed down the trail, they were

all smiles. They had a good weekend of fishing; they’d camped under the stars; they were granted Godspeed getting down. When they got back to the car, they dropped the extra weight and hiked the bikes a few miles back up so they could fly down the trail once more. I didn’t know he mountain biked. I also never knew that he once hack-sawed and welded his own version of a mountain bike out of an existing road frame, and that he broke an arm after trying to bunny hop a net on a tennis court. My brother turns 51 this year, and he’s dying. “Ask me anything you want, Sis,” he says later from a hospital bed. I want him to tell me stories about reckless runs on altered bikes. I want him to take me back to a day when he wasn’t sick, when we were both invincible, blazing down narrow little trails in the Colorado Rockies and eating fresh trout by campfire. I want to ask him: How bad is the pain? What does it feel like to know you’re dying? Are you afraid? But the only thing I can mutter is: What kind of bike was it?

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