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VINS Hosts Plein Air Painting What’s New at the Woodstock History Center
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4 Charming
B&Bs New owners bring warmth & style
CONTENTS
47 28 Calling All History Buffs
by Dean Whitlock Get to know Matt Powers at the Woodstock History Center.
40 Art in the Open Bed & Breakfast Heaven 47
by Dian Parker The Plein Air Festival at VINS.
by Katherine P. Cox New owners bring warmth and style to local inns.
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22
CONTENTS
64
72
In Every Issue
Departments
13 Editor’s Note 14 Contributors 16 Online Exclusives 72 Happenings 79 Advertisers Index 80 Last Glance
18 Everyday Essentials
27
Shop & Stay In & Around Quechee This Autumn
Tips for healthy living.
22 Around & About
by Cassie Horner
64 Travel
by Lisa Ballard
Day of the Dead.
36
Unique Shopping & Dining In & Around Woodstock
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Mountain View Publishing, LLC 135 Lyme Road, Hanover, NH 03755 (603) 643-1830
mountainviewpublishing.com Publishers
Bob Frisch Cheryl Frisch Executive Editor
Deborah Thompson Associate Editor
Kristy Erickson Copy Editor
Elaine Ambrose Creative Director
Ellen Klempner-Beguin Art Director
Brad Wuorinen Ad Design
Hutchens Media, LLC Web Design
Locable Inbound Marketing Manager
Erin Frisch Advertising
Bob Frisch
KEEP US POSTED. Woodstock Magazine wants to hear from readers. Correspondence may be addressed to: Letters to the Editor, Woodstock Magazine, 135 Lyme Road, Hanover, NH 03755. Or email us at: dthompson@mountainviewpublishing .com. Advertising inquiries may be made by email to rcfrisch1@comcast .net. Woodstock Magazine is published quarterly by Mountain View Publishing, LLC Š2018. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Woodstock Magazine accepts no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, artwork, or photographs.
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E D I TO R ’ S N OT E
JACK ROWELL
Fall Fantasy Everyone knows that New England is the place to be for viewing spectacular fall foliage. That’s nothing new. But there is something new in the town of Woodstock—something new, exciting, and beautiful—and we’re happy to tell you about it. “It” happens to be four cozy and charming Woodstock inns, all of which happen to be under new ownership (page 47). The warm, comfortable B&Bs have been updated and renovated, some with new furnishings or facades, while others were stripped to the studs and remodeled. They’re all finished and decorated now, and we’re very happy to be bringing you a look inside. They’re absolutely heavenly, as our headline attests. Thanks to all the innkeepers for accommodating us so we could make this feature happen. These kind people are ready and waiting to shower you with their special brand of hospitality, so keep this in mind: Just because you live in Woodstock doesn’t mean you can’t spend a romantic weekend down the street or around the corner. The tough part will be deciding which inn you want to visit first! We’re also dropping in to chat with a couple of well-known people around town, David Simmons, executive director of Billings Farm & Museum (page 22), and Matt Powers, executive director of the Woodstock History Center (page 28). The next time you see them, be sure to mention you saw their stories in our pages. Wherever your autumn adventures take you this year, stay in touch with local news and events at www.woodstockmagazine.com. Enjoy!
Deborah Thompson Executive Editor dthompson@mountainviewpublishing.com
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C O N T R I B U TO R S
Lynn began her photographic career in Boston, studying at the New England School of Photography, assisting commercial photographers, and color printing in photo labs. Originally from West Virginia, she worked her way north, finally landing in the hills of Vermont, where she has a studio in Woodstock. Her current assignments include photographing people, architecture, and art.
Lynn Bohannon
Katherine P. Cox
Kathy is a freelance writer and former writer and editor for The Keene Sentinel in Keene, New Hampshire. Her work has also appeared in Vermont’s Local Banquet, So Vermont Arts & Living, Monadnock Small Business Journal, and the anthology Beyond the Notches: Stories of Place in New Hampshire’s North Country. She was also a writer and producer for Captured Light Studio, Inc., a video and interactive production company in Keene.
Cassie is a writer, editor, and publisher and the author of a historical novel, Lucy E.—Road to Victory. Her roots in Vermont go back almost 200 years and inspire her love of the natural world and history. She lives in Plymouth, Vermont, with her husband and two dogs—an English Shepherd and a mini Dachshund.
Cassie Horner
Dian is a freelance writer, published in a number of literary journals and magazines. She is also an oil painter and is curator for White River Gallery in Vermont. A solo exhibit of her paintings and drawings will be at the Zollikofer Gallery in Vermont this summer. She has traveled extensively, including to Syria before its heartbreaking devastation.
Dian Parker
Dean, a longtime resident of Thetford, Vermont, is a freelance writer, author, and fund-raising auctioneer for nonprofits. His is also a member of the Thetford Historical Society and enjoys reading about the fascinating sidelines of history that most history books leave out. You can find out more about his novels and short stories at deanwhitlock.com.
Dean Whitlock
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ONLINE BUSINESS DIRECTORY Check out these local businesses in our directory.
CLICK ON www.woodstockmagazine.com
AMBROSE CUSTOM BUILDERS, INC.
MARTHA E. DIEBOLD REAL ESTATE
ANNEMARIE SCHMIDT EUROPEAN FACE
MASCOMA SAVINGS BANK
AND BODY STUDIO ARTISTREE/PURPLE CRAYON PRODUCTIONS BENJAMIN F. EDWARDS & CO.
MB PRO LANDSCAPE MORNINGSIDE ADVENTURE FLIGHT PARK
BENTLEYS
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NEW LONDON INN & COACH HOUSE
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QUALITY INN QUECHEE
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RELAX & CO.
DEAD RIVER COMPANY DORR MILL STORE DOWDS’ COUNTRY INN DOWDS’ INN EVENTS CENTER
RENEWAL BY ANDERSON OF VT RICHARD ELECTRIC RIVER ROAD VETERINARY
ELITE CLEANING
RODD ROOFING
ENGEL & VOELKERS, WOODSTOCK
ROGER A. PHILLIPS, D.M.D.
ENNIS CONSTRUCTION
SIX LOOSE LADIES YARN & FIBER SHOP
EVERGREEN RECYCLING
SURFACE SOLUTIONS
FOUR SEASONS SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY GILBERTE INTERIORS GUARALDI AGENCY HANOVER COUNTRY CLUB HANOVER EYECARE
THE FARMER’S TABLE CAFE THE GRANITE GROUP, THE ULTIMATE BATH STORE THE HANOVER INN AT DARTMOUTH COLLEGE
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THE WOODSTOCKER B&B
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THE WOODSTOCK INN & RESORT
WALLPAPERING, INC. JOZACH JEWELERS JUNCTION FRAME SHOP
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OF COMMERCE
For more information about how your business can get listed on our ONLINE BUSINESS DIRECTORY or for other online advertising opportunities, contact Bob Frisch at (603) 643-1830 or email rcfrisch1@comcast.net. FA L L 2018
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E V E RY DAY E S S E N T I A L S Tips for Healthy Living
More Reasons to Get Fit G
etting fit in middle age may lead to a healthier brain and heart when you’re in your senior years. A new study of nearly 18,000 people finds that the most fit were 16 percent less likely to develop depression and 56 percent less likely to die from heart disease if they developed depression. They were also 61 percent less likely to die from heart disease if they remained free of depression. “There is a well-known connection between depression and cardiovascular disease,” reports lead researcher Dr. Benjamin Willis. Fitness can reduce the risks of both depression and heart disease, even over long periods of time. But only 50 percent of Americans meet the minimum guidelines for physical activity—150 minutes a week. The good news? The benefits of exercise kick in regardless of your age when you start. “It’s never too late to get off the couch,” Dr. Willis says.
Crazy for
Pumpkin Spice?
A
utumn brings crisp, cool days, breathtaking foliage, and pumpkin spice everything. But a pumpkin spice latte can contain more than 400 calories and a whopping 50 grams of sugar. While the occasional latte is a delicious treat, indulging every day is an unhealthy habit. If you can’t get enough of this quintessential fall flavor, make your own pumpkin spice mix. Martha Stewart recommends combining 3 tablespoons cinnamon, 2 teaspoons ground ginger, 1 teaspoon each of nutmeg and allspice, and a half teaspoon of ground cloves. Sprinkle in your coffee and add to muffins, oatmeal, smoothies, and anything else that can use a spicy kick.
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Get on Your Feet!
I
f you sit for six hours a day or more, your risk of dying early jumps 19 percent—even if you get regular exercise—compared with people who sit for fewer than three hours. According to a new study by the American Cancer Society, sitting too much can kill you in 14 ways, including cancer, heart disease, diabetes, stroke, lung disease, digestive disease, Parkinson’s disease, and Alzheimer’s, to name several. The takeaway is simple: We should all be moving more, and the less sitting we do, the better it is for us. Go to the Woodstock Rec Center and sign up for classes, enjoy our area’s walking and biking trails, hike Mount Tom, or take a stroll downtown. Just get off the couch and enjoy all our beautiful area has to offer!
Fall for Seasonal Produce
T
hroughout September, October, and November, mix up your diet with the best produce fall has to offer. Enjoy cranberries, beets, pears, apples, sweet potatoes, Brussels sprouts, pomegranates, and the wide variety of squash available while they’re at their peak of freshness and flavor.
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E V E RY DAY E S S E N T I A L S
Don’t Get Stuffed on
Thanksgiving
T
he holiday season will be here before we know it, and for many of us, it’s a season of overindulgence. Lack of sleep, an abundance of decadent food, and stress are a perfect recipe for weight gain. It’s critical this time of year to make adequate sleep and relaxation a priority. Simple swaps will help make meals heathier: replace mashed potatoes with mashed cauliflower, skip the brown sugar and marshmallows on your sweet potatoes, trade green bean casserole for steamed green beans, and substitute applesauce for oil or butter in your dessert recipes.
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Some Pantry Items Stay
Fresher in the Fridge
W
hile you may know to keep tomatoes out of the fridge to preserve their flavor and store your onions and potatoes in a cool, dry place (and keep them separate!), you may be surprised to learn that many pantry items will actually keep better under refrigeration. Here are a few tips for keeping those staples fresh. • Keep whole grains and wholegrain flours and meals in the fridge or freezer. These include wheat berries, quinoa, brown rice, cornmeal, barley, wholewheat flour, coconut flour, rice bran, and ground flaxseed. • The healthy oils in nuts become rancid faster at room temperature, but they’ll last for a year or more in the fridge and up to two years in the freezer. This goes for whole nuts as well as nut flours, nut butters, and nut oils like walnut and sesame. • If you don’t use up opened bottles of olive and safflower oils within a month, keep them in the fridge. They’ll become cloudy but return to normal when they reach room temperature. And it doesn’t affect the taste. • Several staples including maple syrup, vanilla, molasses, active dry yeast, and instant coffee will also last longer in the fridge.
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A RO U N D & A B O U T By Cassie Horner
A
t the Billings Farm & Museum’s 35th anniversary celebration this past summer, Executive Director David Simmons, soon-to-be President of the Woodstock Foundation, challenged Vermont Secretary of Agriculture Anson Tebbetts to a milk-off. The same day, David could be seen graphically explaining the rules before an 1860s-style baseball game. The day, honoring the important contributions of BF&M to the Woodstock area’s farming legacy, shows the multifaceted, roll-up-the-sleeves interests of David, who has spent 40 years in the outdoor history field. Effective July 1, he also became the President of the Woodstock Foundation as longtime President David Donath retired. “My role is the daily leading of an outstanding staff,” says David. “I am impressed with their caliber, focus, and enthusiasm. I work collaboratively and creatively with them to advance the mission and provide the most engaging programs and experiences. I embrace the changes as we move forward to get better and better at what we do.”
Meet David Simmons, Executive Director of Billings Farm & Museum Photos courtesy of Billings Farm & Museum
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David reflects on the BF&M’s 35year history. “We are ever grateful to Laurance and Mary Rockefeller for creating Billings Farm & Museum in 1983 and for setting a bar of excellence that was met in the coming decades as the organization grew. David Donath and Darlyne Franzen creatively expanded interpretation and engagement, establishing Billings Farm & Museum as one of the leading outdoor history museums in the country; it now welcomes nearly 60,000 visitors each year. I am honored to build on their success and to be entrusted with leading the organization in the coming years.” David’s experience goes back to his undergraduate work at Duke University, where he graduated with a degree in history and anthropology. He earned his master’s degree in American Civilization, specializing in
historical archeology, from the University of Pennsylvania in Philadelphia. His career was launched at Old Sturbridge Village in Massachusetts, working first in the research department and then in administration. Prior to coming to BF&M more than four years ago, he spent eight years as director of the Wade House Historic Site, one of 12 historic sites owned and operated by the Wisconsin Historical Society. The 240-acre Wade House site features an 1850s 27-room stagecoach inn, a sawmill, a blacksmith shop, farm animals, and the largest carriage collection in Wisconsin. At BF&M, the scope of David’s work is broad. “What I love about my work is the variety and breadth of everything involved in helping lead the museum,” he says. “It ranges from administration to curatorial, interpretation to marketing, fundraising to merchandising, sustainable practice
to facility management and oversight of the farm, and more. It is ever interesting and challenging. My position involves levels of expertise in different areas of the museum field.” Several new initiatives are happening at BF&M, including incorporating 4-H kids in special events such as Draft Animal Day in May and Cheese & Dairy Celebration in June. There is also a new focus in the Foodways program, with a series of educational gardens such as a pizza garden planted with ingredients designed to go on pizza. The education room in the visitor center has been converted to a learning kitchen for demonstrating food preparation, both historical and current. BF&M will also debut a participatory 19th-century dinner program for adults in the farmhouse. “The 35th anniversary year is a time of celebration and a time to look back at what has been and to look forward to what is to come,” David says. “We share an amazing story and vibrant experience, one that will improve and expand in the coming years.”
“We share an amazing story and vibrant experience, one that will improve and expand in the coming years.” Online Extra Find details and photos about Harvest Weekend at www .woodstockmagazine.com.
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A RO U N D & A B O U T
Glad Rags Sale The Masonic Lodge in Woodstock is transformed twice a year with the popular Glad Rags Sale that brings eager customers in search of bargains on everything from clothing to accessories, shoes, and small items. This fall, the sale will be held on Saturday, October 27, from 9am to 3pm and on Sunday, October 28, from 10am to 1pm with everything 50 percent off. “All the proceeds go directly to different charities in town,” says Loie Havill, president. Local nonprofits apply for the funds awarded each year. Current groups receiving funds include the Ottauquechee Health Foundation, Thompson Senior Center, The Woodstock Job Bank, Community Restorative Justice Center, and Lucy Mackenzie Humane Society. The Glad Rags Sale was initiated in 1964 by Liz Conner. It is a 100 percent volunteer nonprofit event dedicated to supporting other nonprofits that provide health and wel-
Photos by Gina Lancaster & Carol Radice
fare services to the Greater Woodstock Community. Since the group’s founding, they have donated more than three million dollars. “I do it because I really enjoy it,” Lois says. “We have a wonderful community of volunteers. The Glad Rags Sales are a great pleasure. It’s nice to see people volunteer to help and then be so impressed that they return to help with another sale. They realize the value in doing it. We try to involve as many people as are willing to do this.” One volunteer comes all the way from Rochester to help each year. The Change the World Kids also help. The Glad Rags Sale looks for gently used, consignment quality, seasonally appropriate clothing, linens, and household goods. Visit www.gladrags.org for information about the schedule of when and where to bring donations. The website also has information about volunteering.
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A RO U N D & A B O U T
Photos by Virginia Glass Schlabach
62nd Firemen’s Oyster Stew Supper The inside of a cupboard door once told the story of the Firemen’s Oyster Stew Suppers that started around 1956 in East Barnard to benefit the Broad Brook Fire Association. The cupboard was inscribed with each year’s data about how many oysters were used, recipe notes, and other details. The record was lost in 2011 when it was painted over following Tropical Storm Irene, which caused flooding in the community hall, but the lore lives on as the tradition of the annual supper continues. The 2018 Oyster Stew Supper will be held on Saturday, October 20, from 5 to 7:30pm. In addition to oyster stew, the menu includes Westminster crackers, homemade baked beans, rolls, and coleslaw, along with pies to wrap up the feast. Bud Leavitt, a longtime East Barnard resident, was the first cook to mastermind the oyster stew. When he “retired” from that station, his son-in-law Fran Carbino took over. Most recently, firefighters Patrick Kell and Mason Overstreet have taken the helm. “I’m handing it
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down to the next generation of young whippersnappers,” says Fran. The supper was the idea of Erwin Willey, who started it as a fundraiser for the newly formed volunteer fire department. Fran explains that the stew is made from Chesapeake Bay oysters, preferably the standards, which are the small ones. “The old timers enjoyed it,” Fran says. “We order 15 to 16 gallons of oysters. Bud showed me how to cook them. If not cooked the right way, they will get tough.” The recipe, with a specified ration of whole milk to unsalted, real butter, was passed down from generation to generation. The oyster stew is made the morning of the day of the supper. It sits and steeps all day, gaining a rich flavor. It is then warmed up in double boilers. “I did it because of the tradition,” says Fran. “It’s been going all of these years. Over time, there’s been all kinds of help with it, including my children and then my grandchildren.”
Shop & Stay In & Around Quechee this Autumn
Jake’s Quechee Market & Café
The Vermont Spot
Antiques Collaborative, Inc.
7161 Woodstock Road Route 4 Quechee, VT (802) 291-9900 www.jakesquecheemarket.com
Quechee Gorge Village Route 4 Quechee, VT (802) 281-6274
6931 Woodstock Road Route 4 Quechee, VT (802) 296-5858 www.AntiquesCollaborative.com
Open daily 9:30am–5:30pm
Open daily 10am–5pm Closed Wed
Open daily 7am–7:30/8pm
Quechee Home
Artifactory
Andrew Pearce Bowls
Quechee Gorge Village Route 4 Quechee, VT (802) 281-6482
Quechee Gorge Village Route 4 Quechee, VT (802) 369-2153 www.artifactorynh.com
59 Woodstock Road Hartland, VT Between Quechee and Woodstock (802) 735-1884 www.andrewpearcebowls.com
Open daily from 10am–5pm
Open daily 10am–5pm
Vermont Alpaca Store & Living The Dream Alpaca Farm
Pet Groomer and Doggy Daycare
Quechee Gorge Village Route 4 Quechee, VT (802) 490-8329 www.livingthedreamalpacafarm.com Open daily 10am–5pm
Quechee Gorge Village, Route 4 Quechee, VT (802) 369-2966 www.perfectfursalon.com Mon–Fri 9:30am–5:30pm Sat by appointment
Open daily 10am–5pm
Quality Inn 5817 Woodstock Road Route 4 Quechee, VT (802) 295-7600 qualityinnquecheegorge.com
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Perfect Fur Salon
Calling All History Buffs
Get to know Matt Powers at the Woodstock History Center
By Dean Whitlock Photos by Lynn Bohannon
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F
ive years ago, Matt Powers became the executive director of the Woodstock History Center. Though five years isn’t a very long time in the grand scheme of things, Matt has already collected quite an impressive job history at the WHC. Some of it is focused on the organization’s headquarters at 26 Elm Street, but in addition, a great deal of it involves the broader community outside the museum’s walls.
The current special exhibit at the Woodstock History Center is a perfect example. Character: Unforgettable People of Woodstock tells the stories of an amazingly wide range of Woodstock’s former residents, most of them folks you won’t find in the history books. Using photos, news reports, diaries, letters, and the accumulated memories of past and current residents, the exhibit brings to life the true “character” of the people who helped give Woodstock its distinctive personality.
Matt Powers, the Woodstock History Center’s executive director.
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Another example: Admission to the exhibition is free, and that goes for almost all the exhibits and events at the Woodstock History Center. The building itself is a museum, both for its contents left by three generations of Danas and other founding families and for its wellpreserved architecture.
Above: The sleigh is just one of many period artifacts on display at the History Center. Right: View of the History Center’s Barn Gallery with an interactive “Community Building” exhibit in the foreground.
MAKING STORIES MORE ACCESSIBLE
Yet, for all the patina of age, Matt knows that historical objects are just things to most of us. The people who owned and used those things are the real story behind the historical stuff. Accordingly, one of his goals since arriving has been to make those stories more accessible. To that end, he and his staff have eliminated admission fees, removed stanchions, weeded out less valuable items, and reclaimed storage space to house more exhibits. (“Nothing has value if it sits in a closet,” Matt says.) They have also developed movable exhibit units and partitions to make the spaces more flexible and easier to rearrange, allowing more exhibits to be mounted each year. In ad-
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Clockwise from top: Matt stands in front of a collage that is part of the new exhibit. The History Center is filled with art, furniture, clothing, textiles, and much more. The facade of the Woodstock History Center’s museum and headquarters.
Online Extra Find more information and photos of Character: Unforgettable People of Woodstock at www.woodstockmagazine.com.
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dition, they host a popular lecture series at the Center and also make the space available at reasonable rates for meetings by outside groups. Matt noted that, previously, most visitors came to research their family genealogy; today more want to learn about the history of their home and the town of Woodstock. Given this interest in homes and the town's streetscape, the History Center has been compiling house histories, some of which were recently featured in an exhibit and a 48-page book on the history of the Green. A VALUABLE BACKGROUND
Top: The hinged portrait frames in the exhibit open to reveal additional panels inside that incorporate photos, newspaper clippings, and remembrances. Above: The grounds of the History Center include a variety of sculptures and a picture-perfect view of the Middle Bridge.
Matt’s own history is well suited to his work. He grew up in Essex Junction, Vermont, with a mother who took him to museums and libraries around the state and a father who collected and has lectured about antiques. Matt worked in Parks and Recreation during high school and college, where he developed a love of working with children, but he chose to major in American Studies, adding New England Studies in grad school. He married a woman whose father turned out to be a museum director and served as a mentor early in Matt’s more than 20-year museum career, including at the Remick Country Doctor and
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Top: Signs from the exhibit on Woodstock’s Green. Above: The exhibit on the Green contains a variety of artifacts that were once owned by people living in the homes around the Green.
Farm Museum in Tamworth, New Hampshire; the Sandwich Historical Society in New Hampshire; and the St. Johnsbury Athenaeum. Matt and his wife Bethany are both collectors, she of Sandwich and other pressed glass, he of books and ephemera about historic American “witness” trees. Together they collect old prints. Matt’s hobbies include tennis, art, music, reading, gardening (veggies), and landscaping. His favorite daily pastime, however, is walking around Woodstock, studying the houses, meeting people, and seeking out private collections in homes and businesses.
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The entrance to the Woodstock History Center’s museum features perennial gardens.
To get to know the town better, Matt joined the Woodstock Rotary and became a Town Trustee of Public Funds. Matt is the only full-time employee at the Woodstock History Center. He supervises a staff of nine part-timers (some very part time), a selection of specialist contractors (e.g., historic clothing), and many volunteers. They are a very creative group, he says, constantly discussing the direction the Center should take. This includes past events that were successful and new ones that have the potential to become signature events, like the Old Time Fair (admission 25 cents!), which attracts grandparents, families, and kids and involves the entire community. Matt likens the Old Time Fair to the elementary school’s Fourth-Grade History Fair, which the History Center supports by acting as a facilitator for the students and their mentors. They’re “perfect examples of placebased education initiatives,” he says, and a collaboration that reaches beyond the kids to the entire community. “The kids become invested in their town’s history and become more involved members of the community,” says Matt. “The town venerates history. We’re there to facilitate and serve the community better.” Woodstock History Center 26 Elm Street Woodstock, VT (802) 457-1822 www.woodstockhistorycenter.org 3 4 F I N D WO O D S TO C K M AGA Z I N E AT W W W. WO O D S TO C K M AGA Z I N E . C O M
Upcoming Events & More Information Fall events include the Old Time Fair on September 22 and History Hikes and lectures each month into November. Check the event schedule for details at www .woodstockhistorycenter.org /programs-and-events. The Woodstock History Center museum is open from the last week in May through October 14, Wednesday through Saturday, from 1 to 5pm and Sunday from 11am to 3pm. The museum is open by appointment in the off season, except during the winter holidays (December 21 through January 1). The research library is open by appointment year-round. The administrative office is open Monday through Friday, 9am to 5pm. Right: Frank Teagle, founder of the Woodstock Area Chamber of Commerce, writes on the Town Crier notice board. Photo by George Goodrow.
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Unique Shopping & Dining In & Around Woodstock, VT
Frameworks Studio of Woodstock
Whippletree Yarn Shop
Collective–The Art of Craft
7 Central Street Woodstock, VT (802) 457-1325 www.whippletreeyarnshop.com
47 Central Street Woodstock, VT (802) 457-1298 www.collective-theartofcraft.com
Please visit our website for current hours.
Mon–Sat 10am–5pm Sun 11am–4pm
Tue–Fri 10am–4pm Sat 10am–noon or by appointment anytime.
Clover Gift Shop
R.T. Home
Anything Printed
10 Elm Street Woodstock, VT (802) 457-2527 pj@clovergiftshop.com
43 Central Street Woodstock, VT (802) 457-5700
Anything Printed 2490 East Woodstock Road Woodstock, VT (802) 457-3414 www.anythingprinted.net
Open daily 10am–6pm
Mon–Sat 10am–5pm Sun 12–4pm
63 Pleasant Street Barn Woodstock, VT (802) 356-5235
Mon–Fri 8am–5:30pm
Caulfield Art Gallery
Angkor Wat Restaurant
11 The Green Woodstock, VT (802) 457-1472 www.caulfieldartgallery.com
61 Pleasant Street Woodstock, VT (802) 457-9029 www.angkorwatrestaurant.com
Mon–Sat 10am–5pm
Tue–Sun 4–9pm
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South Woodstock Country Store & Cafe 4800 South Road South Woodstock, VT (802) 457-3050 Mon–Sat 6:30am–6pm Sun 7am–4pm
Shop Local for the Best Selection this Autumn!
The Barnard Inn Restaurant & Max’s Tavern 5518 Vermont Route 12 Barnard, VT (802) 234-9961 www.barnardinn.com
The Village Butcher
Unicorn
18 Elm Street Woodstock, VT (802) 457-2756
15 Central Street Woodstock, VT (802) 457-2480 www.unicornvt.com
Open daily
Mon–Fri 9:30am–5:30pm Sat 9:30am–6pm Sun 10:30am–5pm
Tue–Sat 5–9pm
Teago
The Prince and The Pauper
506 on the River Inn
2035 Pomfret Road Pomfret, VT (802) 457-1626
24 Elm Street Woodstock, VT (802) 457-1818 www.princeandpauper.com
1653 West Woodstock Road Woodstock, VT (802) 457-7232 www.ontheriverwoodstock.com
Mon–Sat 7am–6pm Sun 8am–4pm
Crystal & Bark Designs & The Little Flower Shoppe 28 Pleasant Street Woodstock, VT (802) 332-6411 www.crystalandbarkdesigns.com Tue–Fri 10am–5:30pm
Cocktails in the Tavern at 5pm Dinner served 7 nights a week starting at 5:30pm
Pizza Chef
Gallery On The Green 1 The Green Woodstock, VT (802) 457-4956 www.galleryonthegreen.com Mon–Sat 10am–5pm Sun 11am–4pm
Route 4 Woodstock, VT (802) 457-1444 Sun–Thu 11am–9pm Fri & Sat 11am–10pm
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Fall Fun in the HistoricWoodstock, Vermont Area
Red Wagon Toy Co.
Fox Gallery
37 Central Clothiers
41 Central Street Woodstock, VT (802) 457-9300 www.redwagontoy.com @redwagontoyco
5 The Green Woodstock, VT (802) 457-3944 www.thefoxgallery.com
37 Central Street Woodstock, VT
Open daily 11am–4pm or by appointment anytime
43 South Main Street Hanover, NH @37centralclothiers @37central_hanover
Splendid Chaos
Woodstock Hops N’ Barley
The Woodstock Gallery
58 Pleasant Street Woodstock, VT (802) 457-7084 www.splendidchaosvt.com
446 Woodstock Road Woodstock, VT (802) 457-2472 www.woodstockhopsnbarley.com
6 Elm Street Woodstock, VT (802) 457-2012 www.woodstockgalleryvt.com
Open Mon–Sat
Open daily
Mon–Sat 10am–5pm Sun 12–4:30pm
The Yankee Bookshop
FH Gillingham & Sons
NT Ferro Jewelers
12 Central Street Woodstock, VT (802) 457-2411 www.yankeebookshop.com @yankeebookshop
16 Elm Street Woodstock, VT (802) 457-2100 www.gillinghams.com
11 Central Street Woodstock, VT (802) 457-1901 www.ferrojewelers.com
Mon–Sat 8:30am–6:30pm Sun 10am–5pm
Mon–Sat 10am–5pm Sun 11am–4pm
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Art in the Open
The Plein Air Festival at VINS
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By Dian Parker Photos courtesy of VINS
rt and science. Light and air. Humans and nature. Bringing these elements together is essential for maintaining well-being in this technological era. To spend time in nature, to really see and absorb its wonders, and then to create a work of art from that inspiration is a rare and wonderful gift. This is what the Vermont Institute of Natural Science (VINS) offers us during its annual Plein Air Festival each fall. Now in its fourth year, the festival offers beginner and seasoned painters alike a week of immersion in nature. En plein air, or plein air painting, is a French term meaning “open (in full) air.� Plein air started with the impressionists who painted outdoors, endeavoring to capture their environment in natural light and air. Monet and Van Gogh were two such painters.
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Above: Meadow and forest views are combined into a beautiful work of art. Opposite: Sue Schlabak paints the meadow on a perfect autumn day.
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“We wanted people to become familiar with the remarkable beauty and diversity of the Ottauquechee River watershed. It has always been the mission of VINS to bring people closer to nature.” — Charlie Rattigan, VINS Executive Director
Starting September 29, for one week, children and adults will be doing the same—painting onto canvas and paper what they see in nature through their own unique vision in the outdoors. The festival began in 2015, originated by VINS Executive Director Charlie Rattigan and former board member Maureen Sheldon. FULFILLING A MISSION
“We wanted people to become familiar with the remarkable beauty and diversity of the Ottauquechee River watershed,” says Charlie. “It has always been the mission of VINS to bring people closer to nature.” The Ottauquechee, White, and Connecticut River watersheds are the designated painting locations for the artists attending the festival. Last year, some 50 painters set up their portable easels, either on the 47 VINS acres or within a 25-mile radius of the center. The opportunities for subjects are immense: the Ottauquechee River at Quechee Gorge, miles of walking trails on the VINS campus, forests and streams, sky and fields, as well as the remarkable birds the center is rehabilitating. Eagles, hawks, owls, falcons, and ravens can be painted during the festival. There is even a program offering middle and high school students the opportunity to paint these magnificent raptors and the environment. At the end of the week of plein air painting, the artists display and sell their works for 18 days, October 5 through 22 this year. Each year Above left: Artists can use a variety of media including oils, pastels, acrylics, watercolor, and pen and ink. Left: Ancestor by Anna Chapman was chosen as the firstplace winner of the Quick Paint competition. 4 2 F I N D WO O D S TO C K M AGA Z I N E AT W W W. WO O D S TO C K M AGA Z I N E . C O M
Above: The meadow at the VINS Nature Center in full bloom, combined with the changing autumn foliage, inspires creativity in artists. Right: Anna Chapman's Old Red, a unique view of the Taftsville Covered Bridge, won Best of Show.
a painting is awarded Best in Show. There is also a Quick Paint Competition Award that is an optional event where artists complete a painting in three hours, using individual expression to capture a moment in time. Last year, painter Anna Chapman won both awards. Best in Show is her oil painting of Taftsville’s iconic red bridge, titled Old Red. Her Quick Sketch, Ancestor, is of a huge, gnarled tree. “It was an exciting opportunity to dedicate myself to a series of work surrounded by beautiful birds of prey and in an incredible landscape,” Anna says. The Plein Air Festival is also a wonderful opportunity for people to watch artists paint outside. “They loved watching the process. I made 10 pieces that week. It turned into my full-time job.” SEEING THROUGH AN ARTIST’S EYES
VINS is an educational center where the public can learn more about nature. The festival is an opportunity to engage in nature in a different way—to see nature through the eyes of an artist. Its mission statement says it well: “It
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“It has become quite a popular movement among artists, and we hope to have 75 artists, including youth, participate this year.” — Judy Callens, VINS Senior Advisor
Above: Many artists enjoy capturing the beauty and personalities of VINS’s resident raptors. Pictured here is a snowy owl.
is a celebration of the remarkable beauty and diversity of the Ottauquechee River watershed ecosystem, its vibrant human and natural communities, and the important message of conservation of the natural world. This festival concentrates on mindful, artistic inspiration, and exploration of the beauty the natural world embodies.” Four years ago, VINS hosted the first Plein Air Festival, and each year its popularity grows. “It has become quite a popular movement among artists, and we hope to have 75 artists, including youth, participate this year,” says Judy Callens, senior advisor at VINS. “We plan a variety of events throughout the
week, such as demonstrations by guest artists, a Quick Paint competition, a nocturnal painting opportunity, and opening and closing receptions.” Each artist pays $40 to register, and youths 17 and under are free. Threefourths of each painting must be done outdoors, and if the work is sold during the exhibition, VINS receives 30 percent. The seven days of painting include a schedule of options. The first evening is an artists’ reception with a guest artist and the speaker, this year William (Wimby) B. Hoyt, who will also be a judge for the competitions. There will be an artist’s demonstration three days at noon and, one afternoon, an opportunity to take the Through the Eyes of the Artist Tour at Marsh-BillingsRockefeller National Historical Park. The last evening is the awards cer-
Tatiana Yanovskaya-Sink was Best of Show winner at the 1st Annual Plein Air Festival in 2015. 4 4 F I N D WO O D S TO C K M AGA Z I N E AT W W W. WO O D S TO C K M AGA Z I N E . C O M
emony, and then the exhibition for the public runs for the next 18 days. There are a number of awards, all receiving cash prizes that begin at $50 for a youth award and go up to $1,000 for Best in Show. There is a Watershed Award for riparian environments; a Nocturnal Award for starry, moonlit nights; an Avian Award; Youth Awards; Quick Paint Awards; and even a People’s Choice Award. The festival is sponsored by the generous support of Wild Apple Graphics in Woodstock, an art publisher and art licensor that also arranges the guest artists and judges. The mission of VINS is to “motivate individuals and communities to care for the environment through education, research, and avian wildlife rehabilitation.” What a wonderful and exciting way to care for our natural world by deeply observing through art its beauty and diversity. Everyone should try it, young and old, novice or experienced. You might just fall in love with an owl.
More Information Fourth Annual En Plein Air Painting Festival: September 29–October 5 Art Exhibit & Sale: October 5–22 Plein Air Festival info and registration: www.vinsweb.org/plein-air Regular admission to VINS Nature Center is $15 for adults, $14 for seniors 62 and over, $13 for youth ages 4 to 17, and free for members and for children 3 and under. For more information about VINS and the variety of exhibits, programs, and environmental-education opportunities offered, visit www .vinsweb.org, vtnature.blogspot.com, and their Facebook page. VINS 146 Natures Way Quechee, VT (802) 359-5000 vinsweb.org
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Bed & Breakfast
HEAVEN WOODSTOCK • VT
New owners bring warmth and style to local inns By Katherine P. Cox
W
hat’s old is new again in Woodstock, as four B&Bs in town are under new ownership, with each individual innkeeper bringing his or her own distinct style and hospitality to their inns. Except for The Village Inn, they have been extensively renovated and redecorated by their new owners. Phil Jenkins at Deer Brook Inn is perhaps the veteran of the group, having purchased his property two years ago, opening in time for Labor Day of 2016.
Karim Houry and Isabelle Chicoine closed on their bed and breakfast, The Woodstocker B&B, this past March and were open to welcome guests by Memorial Day Weekend. Paul Kobylinski is perhaps newest to town, having purchased The Village Inn in June. A turnkey operation, Paul was in business right away. The latest to open, The Blue Horse Inn, was purchased in March by Jill and Tony Amato, who welcomed their first guests in August. Their journeys toward a new chapter in their lives brought all of them to Woodstock, where each found a perfect B&B.
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Photos by Lynn Bohannon
The Blue Horse Inn
Classic and traditional, yet relaxed and up to date
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he stately 1831 Federal Greek Revival house at the top of the Green is only steps from the village, but it also crowns a sweeping lawn that meets the Ottauquechee River, with views of the iconic covered bridge. The Blue Horse Inn, so named for the blue horse series of paintings by the German expressionist painter Franz Marc, has been completely renovated and is the newest bed and breakfast to welcome guests to Woodstock.
Jill and Tony Amato purchased the property in March, and after extensive renovations and redecorating, opened their bed and breakfast for business in August. While keeping to the classic, traditional style of the building, Jill and Tony renovated and updated bathrooms, improved the kitchen, reconditioned and repainted all the walls, replaced windows, turned a first-floor suite into an ADA-compliant guest room, installed new sidewalks and a new parking lot, redid the front granite steps with custom-made hand rails, and renewed the pool area. Most of the eight fireplaces have been modified as gas or electric fireplaces, while the main fireplace in the living room still burns wood. Jill supervised the redecoration of the stylish interiors. “The décor is classic and traditional,” she says, “but also relaxed and up to date.”
Innkeepers Tony and Jill Amato.
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“Woodstock’s such a great place, historic and beautiful—the quintessential Vermont village.” — Tony Amato, innkeeper
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It was a six-year journey, Tony says, with many ups and downs as they searched for the right property. They were frequent visitors to Vermont and were in Woodstock last fall when they noticed the inn was for sale. They were told it was under contract. A few months later, they learned it was back on the market. “It was the dead of winter and we could only gauge what it was like,” Tony says. “But it was clear to us,” Jill adds, “that with this location and this building, this was the one.” There are seven guest rooms and three suites, and guests can enjoy a homemade farm to table breakfast and a wine hour in the afternoon. “We can host up to four weddings a year,” Jill says. “The bridal suite is beautifully elegant, and you just feel special when you’re in there. It’s nice and big with a fireplace, a dressing room, and a crystal chandelier.” Guests are welcome to spend time in the spacious, graceful living room, the library, and the music room. The large dining room gives way to an airy back porch that overlooks the expansive yard and landscaped garden that wraps around
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Tammy Earle, assistant innkeeper, in the kitchen with Jill.
the heated-pool area. “It’s like being in your own private sanctuary,” Tony says. “It’s a perfect yard for a wedding tent or sports games. You could play football on it if you wanted,” Jill adds. “Woodstock’s such a great place,” says Tony, “historic and beautiful— the quintessential Vermont village.”
The Blue Horse Inn 3 Church Street Woodstock, VT (802) 457-9999 www.thebluehorseinn.com
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Photos by Elizabeth Campbell Photography (unless otherwise noted)
Deer Brook Inn
An 1820 farmhouse becomes a chic bed and breakfast
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eople are attracted to B&Bs because of the special touches and the pampering they tend to offer, says Phil Jenkins, innkeeper at Deer Brook Inn, just a few miles outside the village of Woodstock. With Phil’s deft touch and keen eye for design, the 1820 farmhouse has been transformed into a chic bed and breakfast furnished with an eclectic mix of antiques from his personal collection and contemporary pieces. The unobstructed windows and neutral hue on the walls, along with the stunning art everywhere, are intended to “bring nature in, to celebrate the outdoors,” he says.
From left: Evan Bloch, houseman; Phil Jenkins, innkeeper; and Charlene Chalmers, assistant innkeeper. Photo by Lynn Bohannon.
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PHOTO BY LYNN BOHANON
From the parlor, the view takes you outdoors to the landscaped patio area, and a vast lawn beyond that invites guests to pull up an Adirondack chair and relax. Or they can join Phil at 5:30pm for his hospitality hour, where wine and Vermont beers and appetizers are served along with camaraderie and storytelling. “Engaging with people is critically important,” Phil says, for him as well as for his guests. They have another opportunity to engage with each other at breakfast, a sumptuous and delicious affair served in the dining room or out on the patio de-
“When people come to inns, they want something a little unique and different from home.” — Phil Jenkins, innkeeper
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Phil (right) relaxes with his partner Win Coffin. Photo by Lynn Bohannon.
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pending on the weather. Breakfast, served from 8 to 9am, is home-cooked in the kitchen and locally sourced as much as possible and includes herbs and vegetables from the garden and eggs from the farm next door. Often, guests mingle and linger together over coffee before getting on with their day. “At the end of the day, how you make people feel,” says Phil, “sending them off with warm feelings” is key to authentic hospitality, and Phil is the quintessential “hospitalitarian,” as he refers to himself. Friendly and outgoing, he has had three other inns in the past 25 years. He left innkeeping in 2009 and became CEO of Select Registry, a national innkeeper association that has 350 high-end inns across the country, for about three years. “But I missed my guests,” he says. He has a home near Woodstock and figured he’d retire there for part of the year. He frequently passed the farmhouse, and when he saw a for sale sign out in front one day, he jumped at the chance to get back to what he loves most. He bought the inn in the spring of 2016 and did extensive work out-
side and in—a top to bottom renovation—to transform the old farmhouse into a stylish B&B. It was opened to welcome guests by Labor Day. With four spacious guest rooms and a large suite, the décor throughout “is just a little bit different,” Phil says. Beds have padded headboards and soft, inviting comforters. Bathrooms are stocked with Whisper Hill toiletries, a local product. On each bedside table sits Alexa, who can provide you with a wake-up call at your command. “When people come to inns, they want something a little unique and different from home,” Phil notes. Skillfully chosen, unfussy antiques live with contemporary pieces and art that highlights nature and the signature deer, a theme that flows
throughout the inn. It’s stylish, elegant, and comfortable. Phil Jenkins pays attention to the details, whether it’s design or making his guests feel welcome, pampered, and relaxed. “I’m on the front porch welcoming people when they come up my steps,” he says. Deer Brook Inn, he notes, “will meet your expectations and then some of what a Vermont B&B is.”
Deer Brook Inn 4548 West Woodstock Road Woodstock, VT (802) 672-3713 www.deerbrookinn.com
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Photos by Rare Brook Photography (unless otherwise noted)
The Village Inn of Woodstock Designed for romance and relaxation
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hen you step into The Village Inn just blocks from the village, you feel as though you are stepping back in time. With burgundy velvet drapes, vintage wallpaper, and Victorianera antiques throughout, the atmosphere is romantic with modern amenities, says innkeeper Paul Kobylinski. That feeling extends to the outdoor spaces, with a large, lush garden and patio area complete with a small pond that feels like an oasis in the village. He just purchased the inn, built in 1899, at the end of June and is keeping everything the same as it was under its previous owners. “It was very successful for them,” Paul says. A true Victorian inn is exactly what Paul was looking for, and after a long search he found his perfect B&B in Woodstock. “It’s always been a dream of mine. I’d been looking for a bed and breakfast for about 15 years.” It started when he and his
Innkeeper Paul Kobylinski. Photo by Lynn Bohannon.
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“We want our guests to feel happy, be relaxed, and know we’re here to help them with everything they need.” — Paul Kobylinski, innkeeper
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family stayed at a bed and breakfast many years ago during a family reunion in Minnesota. His search for the right one took him to many B&Bs on the East Coast and the Midwest, looking for a property that would keep him busy and was open year-round, he says. “I like big Victorian homes and I like history, so when I found this, I said ‘this is the one.’” It was his first visit to Vermont. Eight guest rooms include a handicapped accessible room, which is also the honeymoon suite, on the first floor; three suites on the second floor; and four standard rooms on the third floor. The rooms have four-poster beds and period pieces that evoke a genteel era, while the bathrooms are modern with amenities including rain-head showers. A three-course breakfast is served in the dining room, which has a fireplace and floral tablecloths that lend an air of gracious formality. Breakfast is prepared for guests when they come down in the morning and place their orders. Fresh ingredients, sourced locally when possible, go into the farm to table menu, which changes daily. Next to the dining room is a tavern area and lounge,
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LYNN BOHANNON
open until 8pm, where a complimentary glass of wine is served during hospitality hour from 4:30 to 5:30. There is also a fully stocked bar, and snacks, appetizers, and sandwiches are served. “We’ve had such wonderful guests,” Paul says, “and they have helped to ease the transition. Guests age 12 and older are welcome. “It’s geared more toward romance. We’ve had a lot of couples who come here for their honeymoon. “Our goal is to continue to run the inn as the previous owners did with their attention to detail. We want our guests to feel happy, be relaxed, and know we’re here to help them with everything they need.” A historic place with modern touches, The Village Inn is a relaxing place to spend time, close to everything that the village of Woodstock has to offer, and has ample parking, Paul says. “I like to be sure visitors are happy and that they’ve had a good time. I want them to feel at home.”
The Village Inn of Woodstock 41 Pleasant Street Woodstock, VT (802) 457-1255 www.villageinnofwoodstock.com
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Photos by Lynn Bohannon
The Woodstocker B&B Warm, relaxed, and indulgent
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t’s the fantasy of those who toil in the world of stressful, long days followed by longer commutes and 24/7 connections to work. Ditch it all, move to the country, and run a small bed and breakfast. Karim Houry and Isabelle Chicoine made it a reality, leaving New York and the corporate rat race and purchasing The Woodstocker B&B, a few blocks from the village, in March. They welcomed their first guests at the end of May.
“We wanted to have a more meaningful life and build something together that was people-oriented,” Isabelle says. Their daughter attended the University of Vermont, and they had visited the state frequently. “We loved Vermont, so when we had the idea of purchasing a bed and breakfast, we quickly narrowed it down to Vermont. It’s close to three metropolises—New York, Boston, and Montreal— and people who live in large cities need an escape, but it has to be fairly close,” she explains. A rural setting with cultural, recreational, and culinary offerings was also on their list as they scouted locations. “Vermont’s a beautiful state, and you have year-round activities,” Karim adds.
Innkeepers Isabelle Chicoine and Karim Houry with Prisca.
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“. . . people who live in large cities need an escape, but it has to be fairly close.” — Isabelle Chicoine, innkeeper
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They visited Woodstock last September to scout it out and get a feel for the town. And they promptly fell in love. They were attracted to Woodstock’s sense of community and its New England feel. “Everyone was so welcoming,” Karim says. Once they purchased The Woodstocker, they set to work revamping and redecorating the inn and its nine guest rooms. As their tagline says, they wanted the décor to be warm, relaxed, and indulgent. “Mountain feel and farmhouse style” is how Isabelle describes it. Each room is different and is named according to its individually decorated theme. There are two luxurious suites with private saunas, one suite with a private patio, and six rooms: the Wanderer with its outdoor sports theme, the cabin-like Whispering Wolf, the Club W that features an illuminated red bathtub, the romantic The Woodstock, the rustic Walk in the Woods, and The Willard, with woodwork reminiscent of a covered bridge. Bathroom amenities are from Whisper Hill in nearby Quechee, and slippers and bathrobes await guests.
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A homemade breakfast is served in the spacious dining room and includes three different egg dishes, pancakes, and a berry, yogurt, and granola parfait. Homemade brioche and breads are also served. Ingredients are organic and locally sourced when possible. For those who find it difficult to leave the ambience of their rooms, a continental breakfast in bed can be ordered—especially inviting on a cold morning. “We put out munchies in the afternoon,” Isabelle says; these might include a homemade cake or savory offerings. It’s BYO, she adds, “and we encourage guests to take advantage of that and bring back their beer or wine.” A guest kitchenette has glasses, an icemaker, and a refrigerator. A gas firepit in the garden welcomes guests to take their beverages outside, or they can settle into the leather chairs and comfortable sofa
in the book-lined library. The dining room tends to be a popular gathering place too, notes Isabelle. Still somewhat new as hosts, Karim and Isabelle say their goal is for guests to want to come back, to feel relaxed and at home, and to be able to disconnect and enjoyed being taken care of. “We like to pamper them without being intrusive,” Isabelle says. They appear to be succeeding. When a recent guest was asked at breakfast, “What would you like?” his response was, “I’d like to stay another week.”
Facebook Contests, Sweepstakes & Giveaways!
The Woodstocker B&B
Like us on Facebook for your chance to win great prizes!
61 River Street Woodstock, VT (802) 457-3896 www.thewoodstockerbnb.com
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T R AV E L
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Day of the Dead T
Story and Photos by Lisa Ballard
Remembering those who’ve passed – with a spectacular party
hough the time change was only an hour, the trip to Mexico last November 1 was a long one, a predawn flight that landed in Mexico City mid afternoon, followed by a three-hour drive east over the mountains to the city of Puebla. By the time I checked into my hotel, my senses had clouded from too little sleep and the constant movement of the day. I looked forward to a quiet dinner, followed by lights out. A journalist, I was in Mexico to write a story related to earthquake damage in the region and needed to be sharp the next morning when my assignment began.
Left: An enormous skelton oversees the festivities in Puebla’s zocalo (central square). Inset: A woman dressed as a ghoulish senorita hopes for pesos in return for her photograph.
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T R AV E L
Above: A “Lady of the Dead” is carried aloft in a parade. Right: Day of the Dead chalk art near a pedestrian market.
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A parade of ghostly cars, each with La Calavera Catrinas on top.
Night had fallen by the time I emerged from the hotel in search of food, but the sky was hardly dark. A white glow emanated from the city center, two blocks away, accented by pulsating red and orange. I could hear music and merriment. Something was going on. I turned the corner, emerging onto the Zocalo de Puebla (public square) and immediately got swept up by a sea of people. Many were in elaborate, ghoulish costumes with zombie-like faces. The Catedral Basilica de Puebla glowed purple behind an enormous bandshell. A Mexican band strutted to their contagious chords as the audience danced and cheered. Street vendors hawked trinkets under enormous, grinning skulls. What looked like a citywide Halloween party was, in Mexico, a Day of the Dead celebration! All thoughts of an early bedtime vanished. There was so much to see! Women dressed in fanciful, old-fashioned hoop dresses, faces painted, posed for photos for those willing to drop a few pesos in a cup. A medicine man cast spells and chased away curses for those waiting in line for his misty magic. Costumed kids trick-or-treated for money
Did You Know? In the 2015 James Bond film, Spectre, the opening sequence takes place in Mexico City during a Day of the Dead parade. The event was fictional, as Mexico City had never held a Day of the Dead parade. A year later, thanks to the popularity of the film and a desire to promote Mexican traditions, the city organized its first authentic Day of the Dead parade, which drew 250,000 people—and a promise from the city government to have one every year.
among patrons seated at outdoor cafés. And then the parade started. The energetic crowd turned from the band to watch the oncoming wave of bobbing skulls and ghostly cars. More women with painted faces and tiered, ruffled gowns walked solemnly ahead of morbid La Calavera Catrinas or “Ladies of the Dead,” carried aloft on chairs or atop the strobing vehicles that rolled slowly down the street. The procession circled the plaza, then veered onto an avenue heading away from the party. They would continue around the city for the next few hours, followed by hundreds of onlookers. As they turned a corner, a young, face-painted princess tapped my elbow, FA L L 2018
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caption Inset: caption
Above: A small ofrenda, with photos and food, commemorates a loved one. Right: A woman dressed as the devil escorts a “Lady of the Dead” atop a car.
holding up a plastic pumpkin. I gave her a peso. “Gracias,” she smiled, then dashed away to join her vampire brother. Their mother waved a thank you to me as the crowd engulfed them. “What a welcome to Mexico!” I thought, making my way back to the bandshell. HISTORY OF THE HOLIDAY
The Day of the Dead is actually a twoday celebration held on November 1 and 2. The first day, Día de los Inocentes (Day of the Innocents) or Día de los Angelitos (Day of the Little Angels), honors children. The second day, Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead), commemorates adults. The tradition dates back to the Aztecs in central and southern Mexico, though today it is a Mexican national holiday during which families remember and celebrate their deceased loved ones. The Day of the Dead incorporates many of the religious aspects of Christianity’s All Saints’ Day and All Souls’ Day, including the dates of the holiday. 6 8 F I N D WO O D S TO C K M AGA Z I N E AT W W W. WO O D S TO C K M AGA Z I N E . C O M
Before Spanish colonization in the 1500s, the Aztecs celebrated the Day of the Dead during the summer and for a month, rather than two days at the beginning of November. There are variations in the traditions surrounding the holiday, depending on where you are in Mexico. For example, in Puebla, traditionalists believe that the dead rejoin the living for the night of November 1 to comfort and guide surviving family members. The living work to clean and decorate the graves with mounds of marigolds, symbolic of the sun because of their yellow color and representing life and hope. They also place toys (for children), tequila (for adults), and the favorite foods of the dead on their tombstones, and then sleep in the graveyards, hoping for a brief nocturnal communion with their relatives who have gone before. A JOYOUS CELEBRATION
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Know Before You Go Thinking of visiting Mexico during the Day of the Dead? Keep these tips in mind to ensure an enjoyable trip:
• Reserve a room well in advance. The Day of the Dead runs for a minimum of two nights and often includes a week of festivities, depending on where you are in Mexico. Decent hotels in good locations can fill up a year in advance.
• Plan for the holiday. The Day of the Dead is a national holiday, so banks, post offices, and many businesses are closed, at least on November 1 and 2.
• Learn a little Spanish. Many people speak English in bigger cities, but not in smaller towns.
• Avoid food that’s not cooked or peeled. Mexican cuisine is fantastic! That said, Mexico’s reputation for inducing lower digestive tract dysfunction is welldeserved. Likewise, drink only bottled beverages and avoid ice cubes.
• Haggle in markets, but stick to the posted price in normal stores. • Pay in pesos. Though some upscale hotels and restaurants accept dollars for tips, be prepared to pay for most things in pesos, which you can get from ATMs, preferably inside shops or malls rather than on the street.
• Arrange taxis through your hotel. A street taxi might include a roving thief.
• Pickpocket-proof your valuables. In large crowds, carry your wallet, passport, and other valuables in a secure spot next to your body, not in a back pocket or something like a daypack or purse that can be grabbed.
• Get the recommended immunizations. In addition to routine vaccinations, the US Centers for Disease Control recommends immunizing against hepatitis A and typhoid, both of which can be contracted from contaminated food and drink in Mexico.
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An elaborate ofrenda for a horse-lover is decorated with hundreds of marigold blossoms.
ite possessions of the deceased. During my weeklong stay in the region, I saw ofrendas in private homes, in a hospital, at a fire station, in markets, and against a random wall in a park. At first, with so many reminders of the dead everywhere I looked, I felt sullen, but everyone else’s mood was hardly somber. Quite the contrary! The Day of the Dead was a joyous occasion. Even the skulls that hung from every awning and portal grinned cheerfully. “Why are all these dead things so happy?” I asked an older woman who was getting her face painted. “The dead would be insulted if we mourned them,” she explained. “Dying is a part of living, so we ask the dead to awaken from their eternal sleep once each year to celebrate life again. If you’re not religious, it’s a great excuse for a party.” Party indeed. For this unsuspecting visitor to Mexico, the Day of the Dead was Halloween on steroids. What luck to experience this internationally infamous celebration where it originated! FA L L 2018
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HAPPENINGS: Fall 2018
SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER | NOVEMBER
September 29–30
Pumpkin & Apple Celebration Billings Farm & Museum, 10am–5pm BILLINGSFARM.ORG
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Through September 16 32nd Annual Quilt Exhibition Billings Farm & Museum, 10am–5pm BILLINGSFARM.ORG
Through October 10 Market on the Green Woodstock Village Green, 3–6pm
September & October, Fridays Foodways Fridays Billings Farm & Museum, 10am–5pm BILLINGSFARM.ORG
September–November, Thursdays Play Bridge at Norman Williams!
October 6–7
Norman Williams Public Library, 3:30pm
Billings Farm & Museum, 10am–5pm
NORMANWILLIAMS.ORG
Harvest Weekend BILLINGSFARM.ORG
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Pentangle Council on the Arts 31 The Green Woodstock, VT (802) 457-3981 WWW.PENTANGLEARTS.ORG
September 9 Old World/New World: Timeless Sonatas North Universalist Chapel, 4pm
September 12 Puppet Show: Handsome and Gretel Town Hall Theatre, 10am
September 21–22 Pentangle Light Garden Woodstock Village Green, 6:30–10:30pm
September 28 Children’s Musical: My Mouth Is a Volcano Town Hall Theatre, 10am
November 10 Children’s Musical: Jigsaw Jones and the Case of the Class Clown Town Hall Theatre, 10am
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September–November, Thursdays Thursday Afternoon Knitting Group
October 13–14 Autumn Wagon Ride Weekend
Norman Williams Public Library, 4pm
Billings Farm & Museum, 10am–5pm
NORMANWILLIAMS.ORG
September 7–8 Woodstock Super Sidewalk Sale Days
BILLINGSFARM.ORG
WWW.WOODSTOCKVT.COM
September 8 Classics Book Discussion: A Man in Full by Tom Wolfe Norman Williams Public Library, 10:30am NORMANWILLIAMS.ORG
September 8 Art Walk Woodstock History Center, 6–8pm WWW.WOODSTOCKHISTORYCENTER.ORG
September 22 Woodstock Vermont Film Series: California Typewriter Billings Farm & Museum, 5 & 7pm BILLINGSFARM.ORG
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HAPPENINGS
September 8–9 Woodstock Chamber Fine Art Festival The Green, 10am–5pm WWW.WOODSTOCKVT.COM
September 8, 15 Traditional Craft Saturdays Billings Farm & Museum, 10am–5pm BILLINGSFARM.ORG
September 11 Garden Tour Billings Farm & Museum, 1pm BILLINGSFARM.ORG
September 12, 19, 26 Wagon Ride Wednesdays Billings Farm & Museum, 11am–3pm BILLINGSFARM.ORG
September 24 3rd Annual Woodstock Old Time Fair Woodstock History Center, 1–4pm WWW.WOODSTOCKHISTORICAL.ORG
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September 14, October 12, November 9 Breastfeeding Support Group Norman Williams Public Library, 10:30am NORMANWILLIAMS.ORG
September 15, October 20 Farm House/Manor House Billings Farm & Museum, 1pm BILLINGSFARM.ORG
October 2, November 6 Recite! Poetry Norman Williams Public Library, 5:30pm NORMAN WILLIAMS.ORG
October 6, November 3 Yoga of 12-Step Recovery with Maeve Ryan Norman Williams Public Library, 2pm NORMANWILLIAMS.ORG
October 28 A Family Halloween Billings Farm & Museum, 10am–5pm BILLINGSFARM.ORG
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HAPPENINGS
October 6–7 46th Apple and Craft Artisan Fair Woodstock Rec Center, 10am–5pm WWW.WOODSTOCKREC.ORG
October 6 45th Annual Penny Sale Woodstock Union High School, 7pm WWW.ROTARYWOODSTOCK.COM
November 23–25 Thanksgiving Weekend Billings Farm & Museum, 10am–4pm BILLINGSFARM.ORG
Online Extra Find more events online at www.woodstockmagazine.com. 7 8 F I N D WO O D S TO C K M AGA Z I N E AT W W W. WO O D S TO C K M AGA Z I N E . C O M
ADVERTISERS INDEX 37 Central Clothiers................................................. 38 506 on the River Inn................................................ 37 ACS Design Build..................................................... 45 Ambrose Custom Builders....................................... 39 Andrew Pearce Bowls.....................................27 & 33 Angkor Wat Restaurant.......................................... 36 Anichini...................................................................... 2 Antiques Collaborative........................................... 27 Anything Printed..................................................... 36 Artifactory.......................................................27 & 75 ArtisTree................................................................... 45 Bensonwood.............................................................. 7 Bentleys.................................................................... 51 Billings Farm & Museum......................................... 55 Blue Horse Inn......................................................... 33 Boynton Construction............................................. 78 Carpet King & Tile................................................... 67 Caulfield Art Gallery............................................... 36 Clover Gift Shop..............................................19 & 36 Collective—The Art of Craft................................... 36 Crystal & Bark.......................................................... 37 DHMC Dermatology................................................ 75 Deer Brook Inn........................................................ 39 Elevation Clothing................................................... 70 Elite Cleaning.......................................................... 59 Engel & Voelkers....................................................... 9 F.H. Gillingham & Sons............................................ 38 Fine Paints of Europe................................ Back cover First Impressions Salon & Spa................................. 77 Fort at No. 4............................................................. 70 Four Seasons Sotheby’s International Realty........... 6 Fox Gallery............................................................... 38 Frameworks Studio of Woodstock......................... 36
G.R. Porter & Sons................................................... 71 Gallery on the Green............................................... 37 GeoBarns..........................................Inside back cover Gilberte Interiors..................................................... 11 Green Mountain Plumbing & Heating................... 77 Hull Maynard Hersey Insurance.............................. 13 Jake’s Quechee Market & Café............................... 27 Jancewicz & Son...................................................... 15 Jeff Wilmot Painting............................................... 74 Junction Frame Shop............................................... 69 Kedron Valley Inn.................................................... 20 Landshapes.............................................................. 25 Loewen Windows.................................................... 78 Main Street Kitchens................................................. 5 Mertens House........................................................ 63 Montshire Museum................................................. 45 Mt. Ascutney Hospital............................................. 34 N.T. Ferro Estate & Custom Jewelers..............21 & 38 Neely Orthodontics................................................. 71 Perfect Fur Salon..................................................... 27 Peacemeal Pies........................................................ 20 Pizza Chef................................................................ 37 Quality Inn............................................................... 27 Quechee Home, Porch & Closet......................27 & 59 R.T. Home................................................................. 36 Rain or Shine Tent and Events................................ 69 Red Wagon Toy Co.................................................. 38 Renewal by Andersen of VT..................................... 4 Shaker Hill Granite.................................................. 35 Snyder Donegan Real Estate Group........................Inside front cover South Woodstock Country Store & Cafe................ 36 Splendid Chaos........................................................ 38
Teago General Store............................................... 37 Terrace Communities.............................................. 12 The Barnard Inn Restaurant & Max’s Tavern......... 37 The Braeside Lodging............................................. 44 The Carriage Shed................................................... 46 The Gilded Edge...................................................... 67 The Lincoln Inn.......................................................... 3 The Prince and the Pauper..................................... 37 The Public House..................................................... 17 The Quechee Club..................................................... 1 The Quechee Inn at Marshland Farm..................... 68 The Vermont Spot...........................................27 & 68 The Village Butcher................................................. 37 The Village Inn of Woodstock................................ 34 The Williamson Group............................................ 51 The Woodstock Gallery........................................... 38 The Woodstocker B&B............................................ 19 The Yankee Bookshop............................................ 38 Unicorn............................................................21 & 37 Upper Valley Haven................................................ 76 VINS.......................................................................... 44 Vermont Alpaca Store & Living the Dream Alpaca Farm............................. 27 Village Pizza and Grille........................................... 74 Wagner Hodgson.................................................... 73 Whippletree Yarn Shop.......................................... 36 WISE......................................................................... 76 Woodstock Beverage.............................................. 71 Woodstock Chamber of Commerce....................... 55 Woodstock Farmers’ Market.................................. 12 Woodstock Hops & Barley...................................... 38 Woodstock Rec Center............................................ 14 Woodstock Rotary Club/Penny Sale....................... 14
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LAST GLANCE
By all these lovely tokens September days are here, With summer’s best of weather And autumn’s best of cheer. — Helen Hunt Jackson
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