Field Guide to Asheville (2020)

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FIELD GUIDE TO ASHEVILLE

2020

M O U N TA I N X P R E S S

MOUNTAINX.COM/GUIDES

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FIELD GUIDE TO ASHEVILLE

2020

M O U N TA I N X P R E S S

MOUNTAINX.COM/GUIDES

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me e elhceo W To As vill Take time to get to know us The Southern Appalachians have for centuries attracted rugged individualists who settled in coves far from the East Coast’s burgeoning cities, entrenched politics and booming industry. Others came to escape the lowlands’ endless summers, seeking a health-giving retreat. Crafters and artists moved here to work on George Vanderbilt’s Biltmore Estate. Land developers and entrepreneurs joined the fray. When the railroad made it up the mountain, it brought passengers daily: the ailing, the hopeful, the curious and the adventurous.

What has evolved over the years is a town with more than its share of spirited and colorful people — who champion local causes, cherish the land and serve the community.

As a result, this is a town where everyone has a point of view, where almost everyone has a big idea — and a sizable number of us are trying to make them happen.

Asheville offers so much to all of us: rivers, mountain trails, and oodles of outdoor adventures; breweries, eateries and a vibrant music scene; a long history of mountain crafts; an eclectic array of healing modalities; LGBTQ connections; and stores with Harry Potteresque names.

And it’s beckoning you to take part.

Publisher & Guide Editor: Jeff Fobes Writers: Able Allen, Edwin Arnaudin, Heather Brown, Thomas Calder, Franzi Charen, Jeff Fobes, Laura Hackett, Alli Marshall, Deborah Robertson, Tracy Rose, Gina Smith, Kay West Guide Design: Scott Southwick Designers: Norn Cutson, Scott Southwick, Olivia Urban Photo Coordinator: Able Allen Photographers: artists, community members, local businesses and visitors (see individual photo credits) Advertising Manager: Susan Hutchinson Ad Sales: Sara Brecht, Bryant Cooper, Brian Palmieri, Heather Taylor, Tiffany Wagner IT & Web: Heather Brown, Bowman Kelley Front Office/Accounting: Able Allen, Lauren Andrews, Amie Fowler-Tanner Distribution: Susan Hutchinson, Cindy Kunst and a fantastic team of devoted drivers Cover photo: Getty Images Cover design: Scott Southwick The Asheville Field Guide is published annually by Mountain Xpress P.O. Box 114 Asheville, NC 28802 828.251.1333 © 2020 Mountain Xpress. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without expressed permission of Mountain Xpress.

We have taken great care to ensure the accuracy of information contained this guide.

However, we are human and businesses change their services from time to time.

Please check websites and businesses prior to making plans.

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FIELD GUIDE TO ASHEVILLE

2020

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Contents

GETTING SETTLED 10 Tours 12 FAQs 18 What could go wrong?

20 Timeline

THINGS TO DO 27 Get outside 32 Shopping 40 Arts & Crafts 42 Museums 46 Music

52 Performing Arts 54 Other Entertainment 56 Wellness 62 Kids Central

COMMUNITY 66 Community Spotlights 70 Rainbow Connections 72 Festivals

FOOD & DRINK 80 Food 86 Beer, Cider, Distilled Beverages

MAPS 92–97

Photo by 180 Degree Photography

@overasheville

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FIELD GUIDE TO ASHEVILLE

2020

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Tour

Hire Me An Expert

rple bus!

On LaZoom’s big pu

Photo by Michael Oppenheim, courtesy of Asheville Brewing Co.

@ashevillebrewingco

One of the best ways to explore Asheville is to take a tour led by someone in the know. Your point of entry can be history, the arts, beer, food, culture, lifestyle or even humor. The options are many and diverse. What else would you expect for Asheville?

ARTS TOURS • Asheville Art Studio Tours • AVL Literary Tour BARS & BREWERIES TOURS • Asheville Rooftop Bar Tours • Asheville Brewery Tours (walking and mobile tours) • And ... some individual breweries offer tours of their own facilities FOOD & COFFEE TOURS • Asheville Coffee Tours • Asheville Food Tours • Creative Mountain Food Tours • Eating Asheville Tours • No Taste Like Home • Taste Carolina Gourmet Tours

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TOURS HISTORY TOURS • Asheville by Foot Walking Tours • Asheville’s Urban Trail (self-guided downtown walking tour) • Gray Line Trolley Tours • History at Hand (five walking tours led by Sharon Fahrer) • Hood Huggers (black history & art tour) • Moving Sidewalk Segway Downtown Tour OUTDOORS TOURS • Asheville Hiking Tours • Blue Ridge Hiking Co. • Pisgah Mountain Bike Adventures • Walk with Me Tours VARIOUS & HUMOR TOURS • Asheville Terrors (walking ghost tours) • Downtown Asheville LGBTQ+ Walking Tour • LaZoom (comedic approaches to history, ghosts, beer, etc.)

• Leapfrog Tours (a dozen different categories) • Haunted Asheville (walking ghost tours) • The Flying Bike (electric bike tours) • Wellness Tours (yoga, hikes, massage & tarot)

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FAQ s WEATHER? Asheville’s higher elevation (2,000-2,500 feet above sea level, with nearby mountain peaks topping 6,500 feet) affects our daily temperatures, resulting in cooler days and nights than in eastern parts of North Carolina and adjacent states. Our hottest month is typically July (though September 2019 broke multiple heat records), and the coldest is January. December-February are our snowiest months.

BEST TIME OF YEAR TO VISIT? Based on hotel occupancy, that would be from MarchNovember, with the peak in October for the fall color season, which, thanks to our biodiversity and elevation range, is one of the most colorful and longest in the country. Fall comes earlier at higher elevations. The first hints typically arrive in September, with the peak color explosion the last two weeks of October and fading out in early November. Hotel rates rise with the color. If you’re looking for a less pricey and less crowded getaway, JanuaryMarch offer the best bets. Also consider the spring bloom season in April, which packs its own color punch. Check out our guide’s Festivals section, because events take place year-round.

WHERE CAN I PARK? Downtown, where demand for parking is greatest, has thousands of parking spaces, consisting of on-street parking (mostly metered, some free), surface lots and garages (or decks). Parking can also be challenging in West Asheville and Biltmore Village.

• For a map of downtown deck locations, pricing info and links to a mobile-phone app that lets you know where the vacancies are, visit Buncombe County government’s webpage at avl.mx/6si.

• Street meters must be fed via coin or credit card (using PassportParking Mobile Pay) between 8 a.m.-6 p.m., Mon.-Sat. ($1.50/hour). Metered parking is free after 6 p.m., as well as on Sundays and holidays.

• Public and private surface-lot rates vary ($3 or more per session).

• Deck parking is typically free the first hour, $2.50 for the second hour and $1.25 for each subsequent hour.

• Visit the city of Asheville’s Parking Services website at avl. mx/6sj for lots of additional info, including how to pay fines and recover a towed vehicle.

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Photo by Dr. Taylor MacLean

@frenchbroadchiro

789 Merrimon Ave, Asheville, NC 28804 828-254-3274

We trust that God is always at work transforming each life and our life together, helping us to better follow Christ’s example of love and courageous welcome.

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For more info and worship times please visit www.gcpcusa.org M O U N TA I N X P R E S S

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FAQs FLOATING THE F RENCH BROAD?

Before you go check weekly wat, safety reports er theswimguide.orat g/ beach/7160

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Photo by Cindy Kun

2020

CONTINUED WHERE CAN I FIND A PUBLIC RESTROOM? When you’ve got to go, you can find relief at several downtown public facilities: the Grove Arcade (1 Page Ave.); Police Substation hallway (29 Haywood St.); the Asheville Rides Transit (ART) bus station (49 Coxe Ave.); Arts & Culture Center (14 Riverside Drive); and Asheville Visitor Centers (36 Montford Ave. and Pack Square Park Visitor Center).

WHERE AND WHEN CAN I BUY BEER, CIDER, WINE AND LIQUOR? Packaged liquor is sold only in state-run ABC stores, MondaySaturday, 10 a.m.-9 p.m. (Some stores have different hours.) Beer, cider and wine are sold in grocery, convenience, bottle and big-box stores. Closing time at bars is 2 a.m. New laws passed in 2019 allow restaurant, bar and brewery customers to buy two beers, ciders or glasses of wine at one time, but only one mixed drink, and allow distilleries to sell mixed drinks and bottles of liquor on premises, but only their own products.

WHAT ARE N.C.’S LAWS REGARDING TOBACCO, VAPING AND MARIJUANA? State law prohibits smoking inside bars and restaurants.

The city of Asheville has banned smoking and e-cigarettes on city buses; in city-owned parks and greenways; and in buildings owned, leased, occupied, managed and/or controlled by the city, including the Asheville Regional Airport — except in areas that have been designated for smoking or vaping. Medical and recreational marijuana use remains against the law in North Carolina; possession of less than one-half ounce of marijuana is a misdemeanor.

HOW DOG-FRIENDLY IS ASHEVILLE? In our canine-captivated culture, dogs, who must be leashed by law, are everywhere — hiking trails, hardware stores, breweries, the Biltmore Estate (on the grounds, not in the house), dog parks (where they can be unleashed in certain designated, gated portions), the “official” Dog Welcome Center (1 Battle Square, across from the Grove Arcade), dog-treat bakeries and dog-friendly restaurants. Festivals and special events, where dogs may be prohibited altogether due to crowd size, are typically the exception, so it’s better to leave your pampered pooch in your dog-friendly hotel or to check out one of Asheville’s doggie day care centers. Not to be overlooked, cats get their due on the Asheville Cat Weirdos Facebook page and at The American Museum of the House Cat in Sylva, about an hour’s drive west of Asheville.

IS THERE A DISCOUNT CARD/BOOK FOR AREA ATTRACTIONS AND DINING? The Asheville Independent Restaurant Association sells a 2020 Passport ($65) with BOGO deals good at participating member restaurants. And Asheville Grown’s 2020 Go Local discount card ($18) entitles cardholders to deals and discounts from 500+ locally owned shops and businesses, including more than 100 restaurants, food trucks and bars.

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FAQs WHERE ARE THE VISITOR CENTERS? The main Asheville visitor center (36 Montford Ave.) has humans on duty to assist with questions, plus brochures, maps and coupons pertaining to area attractions. The center is open Monday-Friday 8:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. and Sunday 9 a.m.-5 p.m. A satellite location in Pack Square Park operates 7 days a week, 9 a.m.-5 p.m.

IS ASHEVILLE ADA COMPLIANT?

Asheville aims to comply with the Americans with Disabilities Act, but the city has to contend with older infrastructure, hilly terrain and numerous conflicting demands. There are individual buildings and businesses with exemptions. Everyone who visits Asheville should keep in mind that downtown sidewalks are often narrow with obstacles, and some have steep inclines.

HOW DO I GET A TABLE AT ASHEVILLE’S MOST POPULAR RESTAURANTS? Unless you reserve well in advance — in extreme cases, two months out — it’s unlikely you will. Try calling rather than just looking online. Go for an early or late lunch instead of dinner, or belly up to the bar rather than wait for a table. But by all means, don’t despair! Asheville has scores of less famous but amazing and unique places to eat.

HOW CAN I GET AROUND WITHOUT MY CAR? You can walk anywhere in downtown. To venture farther out, there are taxis, Ubers, Lyfts and public buses run by the city of Asheville (ART). There are various rental services for bikes and cars, and some hotels offer shuttle service.

WHAT ARE ASHEVILLE’S SISTER CITIES? Asheville has an active Sister Cities program with seven partners: Vladikavkaz (Russia), San Cristóbal de las Casas (Mexico), Saumur (France), Karpenisi (Greece), Valladolid (Mexico), Osogbo (Nigeria), and Dunkeld-Birnam (Scotland).

WHERE CAN I FIND A CALENDAR OF EVENTS? There’s a lot going on in Asheville — festivals, concerts, retreats, celebrations, author appearances, sports competitions, dances, you name it. To be in the know each week, visit avlcalendar.com for a comprehensive listing of events of every stripe and type. And for a quick look at some of the year’s biggest events, check out the Festivals section in this guide.

FIND OUT

What’s Happening 16

Live Music, Tours, Festivals, Spirituality and more!

avlcalendar.com

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What could go Just In Case

Wrong?

Photo by Pam He

dstrom

CAR PROBLEMS Towing: It can save the day or ruin it. If you need a tow company, there are many local options in various parts of town, and some of them offer repairs as well. But if you discover your car missing in a central business district or Biltmore Village parking lot that has “Towing Enforced” warning signs clearly posted (which are required if a tow service can unilaterally take your vehicle), you’ll need to consult those signs for the phone number to call to recover your vehicle. If it is not apparent to you why your car was towed, try calling Asheville Parking Services at 828-259-5792 or the police.

HEALTH AND INJURIES Chipped a tooth? Rolled an ankle on WNC’s hilly terrain? Need to refill a prescription? Asheville has long been a destination for healing. Mission Hospital’s ER department was voted WNC’s best ER. But for daytime problems that aren’t immediately life-threatening, Buncombe County also has many urgent care clinics: Sisters of Mercy Urgent Care in the west, east and south areas of Asheville, as well as in Weaverville; Range Urgent Care and a Dental Urgent Care in North Asheville; FastMed Urgent Care in South Asheville and just west of town; and two Pardee urgent cares south of Asheville. Pharmacies abound, including in many area grocery stores. CVS maintains a 24hour store and pharmacy in West Asheville, and there’s a Walgreens in South Asheville open every day from 8 a.m.-midnight.

MISSING THINGS OR NONEMERGENCY CRIMES For lost and stolen items, use the nonemergency number to contact the appropriate law enforcement department. In Asheville, call 828-252-1110; in Buncombe County, call 828-250-6670. If your luggage didn’t make it with you, you’ll find thrift and consignment stores all over town that can set you up with some awesome, budget threads to tide you over.

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WHAT COULD GO WRONG? LEGAL TROUBLE It may be fun to drive fast on curvy roads, but the fuzz doesn’t like it. Also remember this is Beer City, and where the liquor flows, the problems sometimes pool beside the fun. Whether you broke the rules or it was all a misunderstanding, you don’t have to face the system alone. Asheville is chockablock full of lawyers with various specialties, and there is a 24-hour bail-bond service a block from the jail.

BEARS! Seriously, WNC is wild country. Whether camping, staying at a romantic cabin or even just Airbndb-ing it on Riceville Road, animals may pay you a visit. From raccoons to possums to bears, our wild mammals love food (including garbage), so if you are leaving your car unattended with food inside, close the windows; if you generate trash, stow it safely. If an animal is causing significant problems, you can call animal control at 828-250-6670.

SICK, HURT OR MISSING PET If your pet needs medical care during regular business hours, Asheville has many vets. (You can also find the winners of Mountain Xpress’ reader poll in Xpress’ annual Best of WNC Guide.) If it’s after hours, Regional Emergency Animal Care Hospital (REACH) is open 24/7. Phone: 828-665-4399.

If your pet goes missing, contact the Buncombe County Animal Shelter at 828-250-6430 (and/or animal control at 828-250-6670); there are also several local web-based missing pet pages, including the Asheville Humane Society at ashevillehumane.org.

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ASHEVILLE-AREA

T imeline

FROM THEN TO NOW

1800s In th e be gin nin g

and The Cherokee people t the their ancestors inhabi rs region for 10,000 yea t prior to the arrival of firs s in tler set ite wh t nen perma the 1780s.

1792 Buncombe County is established. The county is named in honor of Revolutionary War hero Edward Buncombe. The county seat is Morristown, which is renamed Asheville in 1795, in honor of the state’s governor, Samuel Ashe. The town is incorporated in 1797.

1800s Throughout the first half of the 1800s, “drovers” from Kentucky and Tennessee boost the local economy, driving livestock through the region using a primitive pathway along the French Broad River.

1820s 1828 The Buncombe Turnpike

is completed. The 75-mile road came up through the Saluda Gap by way of Flat Rock.

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TIMELINE 1850 Stately homes begin to appear in Asheville. The county’s second brick county courthouse is also built.

1850s

1861-65 During the Civil War, Asheville becomes “a military center for the region, turning out hundreds of Enfield 1860s rifles for the [Confederate] cause,” according to historian Nan Chase. Old men and boys make up a home guard called the Silver Greys.

1871 The first tuberculosis 1870s sanitarium in the country, The Villa, opens in Asheville. A marketing pamphlet describes the town as “The Switzerland of America.”

1880s The first train pulls into Asheville,

“Running water, electricity, 1890s telephones, street cars and paved roads were marvels to be seen in town,” writes historian Mitzi Schaden Tessier. “[B]ut in the country, oxen still pulled the homemade plows.”

connecting the town with Salisbury and points east, marking the start of a progressive decade.

1889 A local newspaper reports that George Vanderbilt, “the young railroad millionaire,” is in the early process of acquiring land in the area.

1910s 1912 “A man is never too old to build 1892 George Vanderbilt finances the construction of the Young Men’s Institute, a place for the Biltmore Estate’s black construction workers to meet, located on South Market and Eagle streets. The building still stands in Asheville’s former African American business district.

1895 Vanderbilt’s Biltmore Estate is completed.

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castles and dream dreams,” declares E.W. Grove at the opening ceremony of the Grove Park Inn. 1914 “Government buys Pisgah Forest; will welcome great National Park,” a headline from the Asheville Citizen declares. The land had been acquired from the Vanderbilt family, following George Vanderbilt’s untimely death.

1916 Six people perish in Asheville during The Great Flood of 1916.

Estimated property damage is between $1 million and $3 million.

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TIMELINE 1930s “11 banks in W.N.C. are now closed,” the Asheville Times declares on Oct. 21, 1930. To help boost the local economy, the Vanderbilt family agrees to open the mansion as a tourist attraction.

1940s 1948 Artist Zelda Fitzgerald (wife of writer F. Scott Fitzgerald) is one of nine patients who die in a fire at Highland Hospital, a mental health facility that had opened in Asheville in 1904.

Urban renewal projects launch, 1960s targeting predominately African American neighborhoods. In several cases, entire communities were razed.

1969 Roughly 200 African American students walk out of the recently integrated Asheville High School after airing a list of grievances concerning school curriculum and the treatment of black students.

1931 Asheville Mayor Gallatin onse Roberts commits suicide in resp n to his legal troubles in connectio with the city’s financial ruin. the Blue 1935 Construction begins on . way Park Ridge

1970s 1976 Asheville finally completes

paying off its Depression-era debt, celebrating the event with a ceremonial bond burning.

1960 – 1975 A new approach to retail sales — malls — arrives in Asheville and within a decade and a half sucks the life out of downtown, rendering it a mercantile wasteland for nearly two decades, according to historian Nan Chase.

1980s 1980 Asheville City Council plans

to turn downtown into a mall by razing 85 downtown buildings on 17 acres, but this idea is defeated by a grassroots citizen effort.

1983 State legislators authorize a 2% room hotel-occupancy tax and 1990s 1994 Artists in the River Arts establish the Buncombe County District host their first studio stroll.

Tourism Development Authority to 1997 City of Asheville spend the revenue. signs a 198-year 1988 City Councilman lease with the Grove Walt Boland champions Arcade Public Market the idea that Asheville’s Foundation. By 2002, industrial riverfront the historic structure is could one day be a reopened to the public. tourist destination.

19 8 0 – 2 0 0 0 1999 The drum circle 1988 Warren Haynes Despite Ashe gets its start at the ville organizes his first moribund do ’s mostly Vance Monument. wntown, Christmas Jam. entrepreneurs The group relocates , ar philanthropist tists, to Pritchard Park after s, community gr activists and complaints. ou breathe life ba ps gradually ck and begin rent into the area in the River Arts g spaces in District.

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TIMELINE 2001 The hotel-occupancy tax 2000s is raised to 4% and the Tourism Product Development Fund is established.

2009 Asheville wins Beer City USA title, tying with Portland, Ore.

2010s 2010-14 Moogfest, a multiday

music, art and technology festival gets its start in Asheville.

2015 The hotel-occupancy tax is raised to 6%.

2020s 2020 More than 800 new hotel rooms are scheduled to become available in Buncombe County — a 10% increase in room inventory.

Memorial h Carolina Collection, Pack Photos courtesy of the Nort Grove Arcade courtesy of Public of the Library, Asheville; photo wal photo courtesy of Housing rene Interest Projects; urban ville Records, Special Collections, D.H. Authority of the City of Ashe o of Warren Haynes by Nick King; phot A; UNC gfest photo Ramsey Library, Division of Tourism; Moo beer photo courtesy of N.C. hock

by David Simc

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Things

To Do ✓ ✓ ✓

Photo by Derek DiLuzio Photography

@derekdiluzio

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Get

Outside

Zoom out on a map of Asheville and you’ll notice colossal swaths of green. No, we’re not talking about the hemp grow-ops.

Our city perches sweetly in a valley that’s surrounded by three lush and mountainous national forests: Pisgah, Nantahala and Cherokee.

And due west is the vastly biodiverse Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Cutting through its center is the storied Appalachian Trail — a legendary 2,189-mile trek reaching from Georgia to Maine.

Within an hour’s drive of downtown Asheville, no matter what direction you head, you’ll find scores of hiking trails, picnic spots, waterfalls and pristine mountain streams. It’s no surprise that nicknames like river rat and hiker trash are taken in stride by our outdoorsy residents.

In search of a view worthy enough for your Instagram feed?

The most casual go-to spot just outside of town is Craggy Gardens, a dramatic, rhododendron-laced, 1.4-mile round-trip hike that leads to a stunning panoramic view of the Pisgah mountain range.

Another nearby and well-traveled path is Catawba Falls: a gentle 2.7-mile round-trip trail that rewards visitors with a towering, mossy waterfall. The treeless and expansive views of Black Balsam Knob are another bucket-list hike for both locals and visitors.

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GET OUTSIDE Take note that the more popular trails sometimes overflow on busy weekends in the summer and fall. If you’re chasing sweet, sweet solitude, consider hiking the lush, streamside Haywood Gap Trail in the Middle Prong Wilderness or the historic Rattlesnake Lodge Trail. Impressive, more isolated hikes beckon, such as Linville Gorge, rugged and teeming with quartz crystals, known by its admirers as the “Grand Canyon of the East.” For a daylong ass-kicking adventure, attempt a summit of the 6,684-foot Mount Mitchell, the highest peak east of the Mississippi River.

While there are easy trails that start within a mile of the summit, try starting down low at Mount Mitchell Trailhead and tackling that gnarly, inspiring 3,600 feet of elevation gain over 5.5 miles.

The reward? Besides an amazing workout, you’ll encounter idyllic, grassy balds, rushing streams and at least four varieties of forest, including native Fraser firs and old-growth spruce.

DuPont State Recreational Forest, just outside of Brevard, functions as the region’s unofficial mountain biking mecca.

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GET OUTSIDE Climbers can keep occupied at area indoor climbing gyms or venture off to natural sites such as Hawksbill Mountain (Linville Gorge) or Rumbling Bald (Chimney Rock State Park).

Whitewater adventure, from class I to V, beckons in almost every Western North Carolina county, with the Nantahala and French Broad rivers offering easy spots to drop in a tube, raft or kayak.

Online search engines are your friends when it comes to renting equipment and signing up for guided excursions. There’s also an abundance of retailers nearby. Mountain Xpress readers voted REI, Second Gear and Frugal Backpacker as the top Outfitters in the 2019 Best of WNC Guide.

During the steamy months, a few go-to swimming holes include Skinny Dip Falls, Sliding Rock and Midnight Hole.

There’s also a slew of other outdoor activities around, such as fly-fishing, zip lining, paddleboarding, even Bellyaking (WNC is the birthplace of the Bellyak, after all!)

alls

eF Linvill

@coralashley

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Shopping e to be r a p e r P d

Amaze

!

Even if you think you’ve seen it all, Asheville may awaken your sense of wonder. You’ll find makers, crafters and artists, importers, designers and passionate devotees here — where “shop local” is the mantra and independent entrepreneurship is a way of life.

You’ll also find nationally known outlets. But take note: Even our malls are peppered with local, independent shops.

When considering how best to channel your inner shopper, consider these approaches: • By neighborhood or area: Check out downtown Asheville, West Asheville (especially Haywood Road), Biltmore Village, River Arts District, Biltmore Park Town Square — or explore neighboring towns like Black Mountain and Weaverville.

• By special interest: Consider your personal passions and do an online search to see what Asheville has to offer. Whether you’re a musician or crafter, outdoor enthusiast, clotheshorse, gardener or vegan, Asheville has one or more specialty shops to draw you in. If you’re looking for the right record or comic book or the latest shoe style, hard-to-find book or the perfect gift for an eccentric friend, chances are good you’ll discover it here.

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Photo by Victoria Grace Photography, courtesy of Nest Boutique + DIY

@victoriagracephotography

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SHOPPING • By thrift, vintage, antique and upcycled: You’ll find treasures, steals and great deals. Intrepid bargain hunters can find unique treasures, sometimes going for a song.

• By locally owned: Shop like a local. Pick up a Go Local Directory and check out its more than 500 listings of locally owned businesses. The 2020 red-white-and-black directory is available in selected stores and many downtown Mountain Xpress newspaper boxes. Or ask your hotel or B&B host where you can find one. When you shop local, you help preserve the town’s unique culture. Consider buying a Go Local card, which entitles you to special discounts. You’ll be shopping like a local while you save a lot of money. Check out ashevillegrown.com.

• By emporium stores with mini-galleries and booths, such as Regeneration Station, Woolworth Walk, Zapow!, Screen Door, Kress Emporium and Antique Tobacco Barn.

• By special event: Check area calendars for local events, such as The Big Crafty, Southern Highland Craft Guild fairs, studio strolls, farmers markets and the annual Outdoor Gear Festival.

Take a walk on Wall Street

Photo courtesey of ULI Charlotte

@uli_clt

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GET ASHEVILLE’S “BUY LOCAL” CARD

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Antiques * vintage clothing * shoes * coats * jewelry * books vinyl records * mid-century and modern furniture * accessories * signs

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SHOPPING • By locally made goods: Asheville’s cottage industries and farms produce a wide range of goods. These “crafted production centers” are part of a new movement that’s bypassing overseas sweatshops to offer quality over quantity in the following areas: • clothing, including fashion lines, T-shirts, regionally produced yarn and cloth • food, including meats, cheeses, jams and condiments, drinks and sodas • jewelry • furniture, glassware, pottery and home décor items • herbal tinctures, CBD products, perfumes and cosmetics • camping gear, hammocks, kayaks, hiking packs • bicycles • musical instruments, including banjos, dulcimers and drums • vinyl records and CDs • crafts, including knives and tools • leather goods, including shoes • pet supplies • kids stuff, including clothing Happy shopping! Asheville is a place of discovery.

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M O U N TA I N X P R E S S

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How residents saved downtown

“I’ve always thought that the turning point for Asheville, especially downtown, was when the downtown Strouse-Greenberg mall project was voted down in November 1981,” says former Asheville City Council member Edward Hay. A developer had proposed to tear down 11 blocks in downtown — from Broadway to Haywood and College north to Interstate 240 (see map) — and build a downtown shopping mall.

“The plan,” recalled Hay, “had the support of all the business leaders, including even some downtown merchants, the CitizenTimes, WLOS-TV, City Council and the Chamber of Commerce. A vote approving the project was required, and an ad hoc citizens group organized to oppose it.

“The proposal was defeated by a 2-to-1 majority and, in its wake, the revitalization of downtown got started. This was the first time that an organized citizens group had challenged local leaders and the first time that there was general agreement that downtown was special and worth protecting.

“An amazing group of energetic, visionary and creative people seized the opportunity to turn downtown into what it is today,” Hay concluded.

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M A K IN G

Asheville

N

EVERYTHING BEHIND THESE FLAGS WILL BE LOST: Asheville-area residents demonstrated what was at stake by “wrapping” the boundary of the proposed downtown mall. Photo by R. Anne Martin, courtesy of of the N.C. Collection, Pack Memorial Public Library

The gray areas indicate what would have been demolished to make way for the mall

240

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World Class

Handmade Creations

Working artists have been setting up shop in Asheville and calling it home for more than a century. As a result, the area has come to be recognized as a national center for arts and crafts.

To see a lot of local crafts in a short time try these hot spots: • Kress Emporium and Woolworth Walk are each packed with booths presenting the works of different artists.

• The River Arts District is home to more than 200 artists with working studios in 23 former industrial buildings.

• The Refinery Creator Space comprises 10 resident artists and exhibitions in three galleries.

• The Folk Art Center houses a historical archive of regional craft and maintains a rotating set of exhibits and demonstrations.

• The Center for Craft contains two galleries and a new National Craft Innovation Hub. • North Carolina Glass Center, The Village Potters and the Odyssey Clayworks offer classes, demos and open galleries.

• Or, if you catch the right weekend and want to go for a drive through the country, various nearby locales host self-guided craft studio tours (Weaverville Art Safari, Leicester Studio Tour and Henderson County Open Studio Tour among them). Or take a daytrip to Penland School of Crafts or John C. Campbell Folk School; both are nationally renowned institutions located within a couple of hours’ drive of Asheville.

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Art Galleries, Fairs Studios, Tours, and more!

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land Southern Higilhd Craft Gu

Photos courtesy of the Southern Highland Craft Guild

M O U N TA I N X P R E S S

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Museums From Pioneer Life To 20Th Century

If you’re visiting Asheville, certain museums and historical sites are hard to miss: The Asheville Art Museum and the Center for Craft completed multimillion-dollar makeovers in 2019 and are reveling in their recent reveals; meanwhile, the Biltmore Estate and Asheville Museum of Science are anything but hidden.

Other locations require a little digging, though. If you want to go small, niche or quirky, and your passion is pinball, radios, antique cars, Moog synthesizers or cats, we’ve got a museum for you.

Unless specified otherwise, the following sites are located in Asheville.

HOUSE MUSEUMS • Smith-McDowell House Museum: Built in 1840, the home is believed to be the oldest surviving house in Asheville and the oldest brick structure in Buncombe County.

• Thomas Wolfe Memorial: Tour the childhood home of writer Thomas Wolfe and learn how the property inspired his scandalous 1929 novel Look Homeward, Angel.

• Vance Birthplace: Located in Weaverville, the tour focuses on what pioneer life was like for both free and enslaved people in Western North Carolina.

INSTRUMENTS AND SOUND • The Asheville Radio Museum: This small museum has an impressive collection of radio equipment, advertisements and other memorabilia. Hours vary.

• LEAF Cultural Arts center: The multicultural, interactive, family-friendly center offers sights and sounds from around the globe, as well as local crafts.

Photo courtesy of the Bob

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Moog Foundation

• The Moogseum: This interactive museum celebrates Robert “Bob” Moog’s legacy and the science of sound.

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Photo courtesy of the Asheville Art Museum

M O U N TA I N X P R E S S

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MUSEUMS HISTORY CENTERS • Black Mountain College Museum + Arts Center: Learn the history and legacy of Black Mountain College, a freewheeling, multidisciplinary hub of artistic innovation that operated from 1933-57.

• Southern Highland Craft Guild Folk Art Center: Situated at milepost 382 on the Blue Ridge Parkway, the center features over 900 makers.

• Swannanoa Valley Museum & History Center: Located in Black Mountain, the nonprofit offers permanent and temporary exhibits about the history of Buncombe County.

• YMI Cultural Center: Opened in 1893, the center is located in the heart of Asheville’s former African American business district. Today the site offers cultural, economic and leadership development activities. Prior to visiting, check its calendar for upcoming events.

TRANSPORTATION MUSEUMS • Antique Car Museum: See rare automobiles like the 1957 Cadillac Eldorado Brougham. The museum is closed January-March.

• Western North Carolina Air Museum: Located in Hendersonville, the site offers a unique collection celebrating the Golden Age of Aviation, 1918-39. Limited hours. Closed December-February.

ECCENTRIC SPOTS • American Museum of the House Cat: Located in Sylva, this quirky museum features a collection of house cat memorabilia — from vintage advertisements to a mummified feline.

• Asheville Pinball Museum: Pay to play 80-plus classic pinball and video games.

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Live Music

So Many Genres, So Much Talent

Movie still from Buskin’ Blues, featuring Resonant Rogues, courtesy of Erin Derham

Even though Rolling Stone pegged Asheville as a hotbed of Americana and bluegrass last year, the fact is you’ll find a wealth of other genres equally represented. Music aficionados are in luck in Asheville.

While you’re getting to know Asheville, we encourage you to check out its local bands and explore beyond your sonic comfort zone: A new favorite artist is likely just around the corner.

Consider organizing your musical odyssey around one of the following: • Music genres — You’ll find experimental, hip-hop, jazz, funk, soul, blues, electronic, singer-songwriter, world music plus others. And, yes, there’s Americana and bluegrass, too.

• Music venues — Many of these are situated in downtown and West Asheville. They range from raging nightclubs to quiet listening rooms. There are also plenty of open-mic and jamsession opportunities.

• Buskers, galore — They play for tips on bustling downtown streets.

• Outdoors and by the river — WNC’s ample fair weather lends itself to music al fresco. Depending on the season, you’ll find many outdoor concerts, from festivals to porch shows.

And being Beer City, many of our breweries feature concerts on their own outdoor stages.

FIND OUT

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Concerts, Shows, Festivals, Beer Events and more!

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The Orange Peel before & after M A K IN G

Asheville

Photos courtesy of Public Interest Projects

“We thought Asheville would give great support to a firstrate live music venue,” recalls Pat Whalen, head of Public Interest Projects — the organization that led the effort in the early 2000s to convert an empty auto-parts warehouse into the now nationally known The Orange Peel Social Aid & Pleasure Club.

“When we heard Sronce Automotive was vacating their warehouse at the corner of Biltmore and Hilliard, we jumped at the opportunity. We knew the building had been a well-known soul club in the ’70s,” Whalen says.

Since the club opened in 2002, the number of Asheville venues offering live music has exploded 400%, Whalen notes. “Before we opened The Orange Peel, Asheville was an afterthought for national touring artists. We’re now known as one of the top music cities in the United States, per articles in Rolling Stone, USA Today and other national publications.”

Acts that have appeared at the club include Dave Grohl, Brittany Howard, Flaming Lips, Jack White, Ms. Lauryn Hill, Run the Jewels, the Beastie Boys, Bob Dylan, Blondie and a Smashing Pumpkins’ nine-show residency.

The Orange Peel’s impact hit home, Whalen says, when he read a newspaper article in which a Nashville entrepreneur explained why he had opened his nightclub. The club owner said, Whalen recalls, “‘We’re tired of bands stopping in Nashville for a hamburger on their way to Asheville.’ ”

Asheville’s favorite people, places, goods & services

Best of WNC awards guide Pick up a free copy today!

B EST OF WN C

2019-2020

the Definitive

guide

Asheville’s Favorites People, Places , Goods & Se rvices

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MAKING ASHEVILLE

Mural by Gus Cutty @guscutty

M O U N TA I N X P R E S S

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SHOP

SAVOR

STAY

Village Shops: Mon-Sat, 10am - 6pm | Sun, 12pm - 5pm National Retailers: Mon-Sat, 10am - 7pm | Sun, 12pm - 5pm Our restaurants stay open later, as do our breweries.

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• Bellagio Art To Wear

• Porter & Prince

• C & Co Handcrafted Skincare &

• Soft Surroundings

• Brooks Brothers

Natural Spa • Chico’s • Estate Jewelry Limited • Joseph A. Bank Clothiers • Palm Village - A Lilly Pulitzer Signature Store • lululemon • Monkees of Biltmore • Mountain Merch • New Morning Gallery • Nest Boutique • Olde World Christmas Shoppe

• Catawba Valley Brewing

Company • Casablanca Cigar Bar • Corner Kitchen • Fig Bistro • Hillman • Hi-Wire Brewing • Ichiban Japanese Steakhouse

• Baymont Inn

• Biltmore Village Inn

• Clarion Inn Biltmore Village

• Courtyard by Marriott Biltmore

Village • DoubleTree Biltmore Hotel

historicbiltmorevillage.com

• Scout Boutique

• Soma Intimates

• Southern Highland Craft Guild • Spa at Biltmore Village • Spartina 449 • Talbots

• The Gardner’s Cottage • Turner & Co.

• Village Antiques & Interiors, Inc. • White House/Black Market • Williams-Sonoma

• Zen Skincare and Waxing Studio

• Margaret & Maxwell • Red Stag Grill

• Rezaz Pan Mediterranean • Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse • TGI Friday’s

• The Cantina Biltmore

• Village Wayside Bar & Grille

• Grand Bohemian Hotel

• Hampton Inn & Suites Biltmore

Village

• Posh Boutique Hotel

• Residence Inn Biltmore

@historicbiltmorevillage

Unlike many popular destinations in Asheville, parking is available on the streets of Historic Biltmore Village, for FREE. We also have 3 trolley stops located throughout the village.

M O U N TA I N X P R E S S

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Performing tains r u C s Art up

Fringe Arts

Photo by Jennifer Bennett

@jenbenmedia

Plenty of nationally touring acts make their way to the Asheville area — but don’t overlook Asheville’s unique gems: Our local talent regularly fills stages (and nontraditional spaces) with a remarkable variety of engaging performances and sometimes boundary-pushing productions.

From drama and comedy to fringe and circus arts, you’ll find lots to explore.

• A dozen local theater companies keep area stages active all year long.

• Homegrown dance troupes present modern, ballet, butoh and edgy acts.

• Spoken-word and literary offerings fill bookstores, club stages and listening rooms.

• Pop-up acts add unexpected surprises to downtown’s already vibrant scene.

• And at least four arthouse film theaters give moviegoers options that are on par with those of major markets.

ASHEVILLE-AREA

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Asheville’s drum circle

M A K IN G

Asheville

“One night in August 1997, while driving home from one of my drum workshops, I contacted several friends and suggested that we go hang out downtown and drum,” recalls Terry Lee Edgerton.

“We met up downtown at the fountain near Pack Place that sat right behind the Vance Monument. This is where the first public drumming started in Asheville.

Photo by Nick King

“We began meeting at this spot regularly on Fridays. We would drum for an hour or two, always drawing a large crowd from all walks of life,” Edgerton recalls. “One night in late October 1997, we were approached by the Asheville police. There had been complaints from surrounding businesses about the crowds, and the resonating beats from the drums were causing a ‘disturbance,’ the police said. At that time, the officers suggested we move our drum group to Pritchard Park.”

Pritchard Park — where the Asheville Drum Circle now unfolds each Friday in warm months, weather permitting — “was perfect for us drummers,” remembers Sunny Keach, one of the earliest participants. “With the amphitheater seating, room to dance and nature present, all in the center of town … we played traditional rhythms and some improvisational pieces and took turns playing solos.

“The circles got huge real quick and were getting shut down due to noise complaints. We had to go through a period of getting legit with the city,” says Keach, describing the circle’s early years. “We had to fight for the circle, as some of the folks who bought the new million-dollar condos at the time were complaining about the noise. The complaints seemed crazy to us. Why move into the middle of a city if you don’t like noise?

All the businesses were in support of us. We brought in big crowds that would eat and shop as well. A few of us met with the chief of police and city manager and presented our case.

We all came to an agreement and got proper permits in place and agreed to end by 10 p.m.”

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ABSFest Photo by Issac Harrell

@absfest

Still looking for more excitement? Here are a few leads.

• Burlesque and sideshow acts — You may not be able to set your watch by these, but such unorthodox performances crop up frequently enough to hold a place in many Ashevillleans’ hearts.

• Drag shows — O.Henry’s, Asheville’s oldest gay bar, features weekly performances by drag queens and kings. Other events, including drag brunches, are held sporadically around town.

• Puppet, poetry and story slams — You can observe or participate.

• Dance — For those who want to get in on the act, there are numerous opportunities to cut a rug and get a good workout with salsa, swing, contra and more. Some events feature live music and lessons at the beginning.

• Trivia nights — Trivia teams gather at a number of area bars for weekly competitions.

• Sports — Asheville’s Minor League Baseball team, the Tourists, hosts 70+ home games between April and September. Just up the hill, at historic Memorial Stadium, the Asheville City Soccer Club offers up preprofessional-level excitement with men’s and women’s teams. The city hosts the Southern Conference men’s and women’s college basketball tournaments in March, is home to a women’s flat track roller derby team and is a repeat host for Fed Cup tennis matches.

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Live Music, Theater, Film Nights, Lectures and more!

avlcalendar.com

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Wellness

A place to heal

Where else can you see a world-class cardiologist at the crack of dawn, indulge in a color-light wrap with aura imaging midmorning, take a hike in the mountains with a yoga instructor in the afternoon and then chill out surrounded by 15 tons of salt in the evening?

For centuries, the Cherokee Indians considered nearby Hot Springs, just 40 minutes from Asheville, a healing place. Asheville’s renown as a wellness destination grew in the 1870s, when publicity about its climate and fresh mountain air began to draw people seeking treatment of tuberculosis and other respiratory diseases.

In 1871, the country’s first sanitarium, The Villa, was established in what is now the Kenilworth neighborhood. With the arrival of the railroad in 1880, thousands of health-seekers flocked to the city. Boardinghouses catered to visitors who reclined on sleeping porches to take “the cure.” Doctors at the beginning of the 20th century proclaimed the Asheville plateau as the great sanitarium of the eastern United States, helping to establish the town as a health care mecca.

Today, the local health care industry continues to thrive, having posted 14% growth in jobs between 2010-15, according to U.S. Bureau of Labor statistics. In 2019, health services ranked as the second-largest job creator, surpassed only by manufacturing.

WNC is also home to an impressive variety of services, whether you come to attune your galactic Earth coordinates

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Photo Courtesy of the LoveShinePlay Festival

@loveshineplay

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WELLNESS with the synchronicities of your soul signature, to breathe the “clean” mountain air (unless it’s a Code Yellow Day), to undergo any number of alternative medical treatments offered in Asheville or to take advantage of our ever-expanding conventional, awardwinning medical infrastructure.

A wide variety of acupuncture and massage styles are available from local practitioners. For a more far-out experience, try the sensory deprivation tank at Still Point Wellness. Yoga is available at traditional walk-in classes, in a hot room, or offered aerial-style or as part of a hiking tour. In addition to health centers like the YMCA, YWCA and the Jewish Community Center, we’re also home to a thriving CrossFit community, a rowhouse, and several spin studios, among other boutique fitness destinations.

If your wellness interests transcend the traditional, then consider your chakras — we have an abundance of reiki healers and holistic practitioners. There’s also forest bathing with the Om Sanctuary, psychic readings at Raven and Crone or sound therapy from Skinny Beats. Or find your cannabidiniol fix — CBD, that is — at a multitude of dispensaries, grocery stores and boutiques. In 2019, our readers selected Franny’s Farmacy as the best place to buy CBD oil, with Carolina Hemp Co. and Clover CBD snagging second and third, respectively.

WELLNESS ADVENTURES The mountains — their sheer age, solitude, silence and vistas — offer their healing energies and perspectives. In town, healing propensities and modalities abound. Whether you want a simple pick-me-up, an entree into an entirely new way of being or simply an hour of silence, there is something for you. We offer a sampling on page 60…

@thefrannytacy Photo courtesy of Franny’s Farm

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Local Matters

Sign up for Xpress’ free weekly e-newsletter at mountainx.com/ newsletters Fresh to your inbox every Wednesday morning!

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WELLNESS YOGA

SOMETHING DIFFERENT

• Asheville Community Yoga • Asheville Yoga Center • Hot Yoga Asheville • Namaste in Nature (for something different: hiking and yoga in one experience) BOOKS & SUPPLIES • Alchemy • Raven and Crone • Herbiary DAY SPAS • Grove Park Inn Spa • Sensibilities Day Spa • Shoji Spa • Spa Theology • Hot Springs Resort & Spa

FIND OUT

What’s Happening

• Still Point Wellness • Asheville Salt Cave • Earth Majick • Om Sanctuary • Skinny Beats FOOD, HERBS, CBD • French Broad Food Co-op • West Village Market • Franny’s Farmacy SCHOOLS, CLINICS • Daoist Traditions College • Asheville School of Massage MEDITATION • Urban Dharma • Inner Light Journeys • Asheville Insight Meditation • Basilica of St. Lawrence

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Kid Central Splasheville!

Photo courtesy of City of Asheville

Congratulations, you’ve made it to Asheville — with the kids! With these tips below, you’ll have a bevy of ideas up your sleeve to keep everyone engaged and entertained for your entire stay.

THE GREAT OUTDOORS There are plenty of opportunities to get the kids outside and have some fun — whether they’re the adventurous sort or take a more mellow approach to outdoor activities.

The intrepid may be intrigued by our nearby zip line courses: In town, Adventure Center of Asheville offers fun for younger kids (ages 4-10) through adults, while Navitat Canopy Adventures in nearby Barnardsville offers tours that are likely more appropriate for older kids and teens (along with adults) who meet the weight requirements.

Asheville boasts three climbing gyms with indoor and outdoor options: Climbmax in downtown, the Smoky Mountain Adventure Center in West Asheville and Riveter in Fletcher.

If you have a skateboarder in tow, you may want to check out the Food Lion Skatepark, a public outdoor skate park near downtown, or the privately owned RAD Skatepark, an indoor spot in the River Arts District.

Every part of town has playgrounds, though some spots offer more elaborate structures than others: • North Asheville’s Jones Park • West Asheville’s Carrier Park • Arden’s Jake Rusher Park • In the Black Mountain area, Montreat’s Robert Lake Park If the kids are hankering for a round of mini-golf, the Asheville area has you covered, too, with three outdoor venues to choose from: Lakeview Putt and Play, Play Staytion and Tropical Gardens Mini Golf.

In the warmer months, water fun can include dashing through the fountains at Splasheville downtown or a dip in the area’s public pools. (More info on playgrounds and pools can be found on the Asheville Parks and Recreation and Buncombe County Recreation Services websites.)

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For some in-town and nearby hikes, check out: • The N.C. Arboretum • the Botanical Gardens at Asheville • the Beaver Lake Bird Sanctuary • the Blue Ridge Parkway’s Asheville Visitor Center TRACK Trail (milepost 384) FIELD GUIDE TO ASHEVILLE

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KIDS All these places offer manageable trails for families. The TRACK Trail is part of the Kids in Parks program (kidsinparks.com), which includes info, maps and incentives to get children excited about outdoor recreation.

You can also combine a nature stroll with some up-close encounters with wild animals native to our region at the WNC Nature Center, a multiyear winner of best Daytrip for Kids, as voted by Mountain Xpress readers.

Depending on the season, your children also may be able to visit a local farm, pick berries or apples at a U-pick establishment or challenge their sense of direction at a local corn maze.

FUN AND GAMES The Asheville area also has plenty of indoor options for fun as well, including two trampoline parks in the South Asheville area (Launch and Sky Zone), two bowling alleys in East and West Asheville (AMF Star Lanes and Sky Lanes), indoor play centers (Asheville’s Fun Depot and Mountain Play Lodge, both in South Asheville), pinball at the Asheville Pinball Museum and the state’s first board game café, Well Played, both downtown.

Kids who get jazzed about science will likely be interested in the Asheville Museum of Science downtown, a regular winner of best Museum for Kids as voted by Mountain Xpress readers.

Meanwhile, art lovers might enjoy the hands-on activities offered at the newly reopened Asheville Art Museum or a paint-your-own pottery session at local studios Claying Around or Fired Up! Creative Lounge.

If you’re looking for some adults-only time in the evenings, many local organizations host regular parents’ nights out at settings ranging from gyms to martial arts studios and more.

Then, too, this being Beer City USA, you might want to bring your kids along to a family-friendly brewery (which may include outdoor space and lawn games).

In fact, the options for family fun are so numerous that you just might have to start planning your next trip.

Smoky Mountain Adventure Center Photo courtesy of Climbmax

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Community Spotlights

West Asheville

Reminiscent of how downtown Asheville felt 15 years ago and evoking the notion that this would be a cool place to live, visitors will enjoy discovering the neighborhood’s funky shops and tasty delights down the length of Haywood Road.

Photo by 180 Degree Photography

@overasheville

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COMMUNITY SPOTLIGHTS Montford

Three hundred acres of stately homes and lovely streets to enjoy beneath a shady tree canopy — just a stroll north of downtown.

Biltmore Village

If your favorite park were also a historic shopping district where even quick-service restaurants have Tudor style architecture, you’d be right at home in this southern outpost of Asheville’s central business district.

Biltmore Park Town Square

A hop, skip and a jump from the airport, this upscale planned village is on target for those seeking a walkable shopping experience with a local flair, away from the crowds of downtown.

Upper: Photo by Cindy Kunst • Middle: Photo by Morito Suzuki mo_suzuki Lower: Photo by 180 Degree Photography @overasheville

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COMMUNITY SPOTLIGHTS Weaverville

Just north of Asheville, you’ll find this quiet mountain town, with local crafters, quality eats and drinks and friendly charm lining its old-timey downtown main street.

Black mountain

For travelers headed back east, Black Mountain is a must stop, known for its thriving downtown, choice shops and restaurants, as well its breathtaking setting at the foot of the Black Mountains.

River Arts District

Asheville’s RAD aims to pack about as many artists imaginable into an area small enough to walk around in, and you won’t have to leave for lunch, dinner or a great beer.

Upper, Lower: Photos by Cindy Kunst Middle: Photo by 180 Degree Photography @overasheville

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Experience the natural wisdom of these kind and intuitive animals.

Horses are masters at being in the present moment, grounding us in the here and now. What do you want to experience? What do you want to change?

How would you like to grow?

• Rejuvenate and renew?

• Learn more about your personal communication style?

• Enhance your intention, power and focus?

• Improve your relationship skills with co-workers, family and others?

• Connect with yourself and the natural environment at a different, instinctive level?

• Experience Yoga and/or Meditation with horses?

Call or Text 828-206-3057 or email info@HorseSenseOtc.com to schedule.

www.HorseSenseOtc.com

M O U N TA I N X P R E S S

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Rainbow Connections

Taking pride in diversity

Photo by James Patton, courtesy of Blue Ridge Pride Center

It’s official: Asheville is LGTBQIA-friendly — • ...and has been for years. Back in 2010, Asheville was ranked by The Advocate as one of America’s top 15 gayest cities. “With its thriving art scene and adorable homes, Asheville is a prime example of the new gay South,” The Advocate opined.

• The city was ranked one of the 20 best places for LGBTQ retirement in 2019 by senioradvice.com.

• In 2013, Buncombe County Register of Deeds Drew Reisinger made national news by accepting gay marriage applications, despite North Carolina’s constitutional ban on gay marriage. The ban was later overturned, in 2014, by a U.S. District Court decision. The day of the court decision, same-sex couples in Asheville became among the first in the state to wed.

• In 2015, Asheville Mayor Esther Manheimer penned an open invitation, welcoming LGBTQ visitors.

• Buncombe County voters elected their first openly lesbian county commissioner in 2016, Jasmine Beach-Ferrara.

• In another milestone, openly lesbian Tammy Hooper became Asheville’s first female police chief, serving from 2015-19.

• Asheville City Council unanimously voted in 2016 to call for the repeal of North Carolina’s controversial “bathroom bill,” HB2.

“Asheville is different in that there is no ‘gayborhood,’ or a gay mecca,” Jerry Conner, a longtime Ashevillean who operates GayAshevilleNC.com, told livability.com. “We’ve really always been very diverse and open, and a gay environment even back in the [nineteen-]thirties.”

In 2019, the North Carolina Room at Pack Memorial Library hosted an LGBTQ history pop-up that featured archival material from its collection, including photographs and written documents, telling the story of the city’s queer community from 1972-2002. The North Carolina Room has an extensive archival website and is open to the public, Tuesday-Saturday.

Currently, UNC Asheville English professor Amanda Wray, in partnership with Blue Ridge Pride Center, is creating Western North Carolina’s first LGBTQ oral history archive. Interviews will be stored at UNC Asheville Ramsey Library’s Special Collections.

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RAINBOW CONNECTIONS ENTERTAINING OPTIONS: • O’Henry’s The oldest gay bar in North Carolina, established 1976; drag show every Friday at midnight

ORGANIZATIONS AND WEBSITES OF INTEREST: • The Campaign for Southern Equality is headquartered in Asheville

• The Underground Industrial dance bar in the back of O.Henry’s

• Blue Ridge Pride Center Oral History Project and Community Partner Fund

• Grove House Entertainment Complex With three venues: Club Eleven, Scandals, Boiler Room

• LGBTQ Elder Advocates of Western North Carolina Gay men’s book club, LGBTQ social lunch, community calendar & directory

• The Grey Eagle Hosts Youth OUTright’s monthly drag brunches • Banks Ave Bar Regular queer-friendly drag shows • Alley Cat Social Club Occasional queer events • Odditorium Occasional drag shows • The Crow and Quill Sundays are a Drag! variety show

• YouthOUTright.org Youth advocacy and leadership for lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, questioning/queer, intersex, asexual and allied (LGBTQIA+) youth • Gayashevillenc.com Directory of social groups, book clubs, theater groups, health-related groups, athletic groups, youth organizations, elder groups, spiritual groups.

Shop, Drink, Get Married

496 Haywood Rd, Asheville NC

V in tage shop Music V enue/ W edding Ch a pel M O U N TA I N X P R E S S

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ivals FesANDtEXPOS LEAF Downtown @leaf_global_arts

Photo by Jefferson Ellison, courtesy of

LEAF Global Arts

No matter what month you get here, you can take part in Asheville’s eclectic spirit of celebration. Below is a sampling of what to expect each month.

For a complete look at what’s happening when you’re here, consult Mountain Xpress’ online calendar of events at avlcalendar. com, the area’s most comprehensive guide to what’s going on in Asheville — from town hall to music hall.

JANUARY • Big Band Swing Dance Weekend Omni Grove Park Inn

• Asheville Fringe Arts Festival Downtown Asheville

• Asheville Restaurant Week Asheville area

• Ginseng Gathering & Auction Warren Wilson College

FEBRUARY • Asheville Designer Toy Expo Highland Brewing Co.

• Annual Cajun Cook-off Salvage Station

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• Arts & Crafts Conference Omni Grove Park Inn

• Asheville Mardis Gras Downtown Asheville

• Bluegrass First Class Festival Crowne Plaza Resort

MARCH

• Southern Conference Basketball Tournament Harrah’s Cherokee Center, downtown Asheville

• Organic Growers Conference Mars Hill University

• Celebrate Zelda (Fitzgerald) Various locations

• Asheville Amadeus Festival Downtown Asheville

Food & Beer Events, Parades, Craft Fairs, and more!

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FESTIVALS, EXPOS Asheville Mardi Gras

Photo by Jennifer Bennett

@jenbenmedia

APRIL • Weaverville Art Safari Studio Tour Weaverville area

• Asheville Wordfest Downtown Asheville

• Asheville Orchid Festival N.C. Arboretum

• Carolina Cheese Fest Highland Brewing Co.

• Mini Maker Faire

Kimmel Arena, UNCA

MAY

• Asheville Bread Festival New Belgium Brewing

• Waynesville Ramp Festival American Legion Field

• Mountain Acoustics Luthier Invitational Burnsville Town Center

• LEAF Spring Festival Black Mountain

• Asheville Beer Week Various locations

• Fiber Weekend Folk Art Center

• paint your own pottery • mosaics • glass fusing • pottery wheels • canvas painting the best place for kids to make art walk-ins welcome 1378 Hendersonville Rd., Suite D • Asheville, NC 277-0042 www.clayingaround.com M O U N TA I N X P R E S S

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FESTIVALS, EXPOS

Anything That Floats Parade Photo courtesy of RiverLink

JUNE

• Carolina Bonsai Expo N.C. Arboretum

• VeganFest

Pack Square Park

• Hola Asheville Celebration Pack Square Park

• ASAP Farm Tour Various local farms

• Old-Fashioned Picnic on the Lawn

Smith-McDowell House Museum

JULY

• Big Crafty

Pack Square Park

• Folkmoot International Dance & Culture Festival Waynesville

• Mountain Dance and Folk Festival UNC Asheville

• Fungi Fest

Warren Wilson College, Swannanoa

• Come to Leicester Studio Tour Leicester area

SEPTEMBER

• N.C. Mountain State Fair Ag Center, Fletcher

• Chow Chow Asheville Food Festival Downtown Asheville

• RADfest

The Grey Eagle

• Asheville Van Life Rally Fletcher

• Shindig on the Green

• Tour de Fat

• Southern Highland Craft Guild Fair

• Blue Ridge Pride

Pack Square Park

Harrah’s Cherokee Center, downtown Asheville

• LoveShinePlay Festival (formerly Asheville Yoga Festival) Downtown Asheville

• Anything That Floats Parade River Arts District

AUGUST

New Belgium Brewery Pack Square Park

• Goombay

Downtown Asheville

OCTOBER

• Asheville Oktoberfest Downtown Asheville

• Bascom Lamar Lunsford Festival Mars Hill University

• Cherokee World Games

• WNC Garlic Fest

• East End Valley Street Community Heritage Festival

• LEAF Fall Festival

• LEAF Downtown

• Ciderfest

Cherokee Tribal Fairgrounds

Martin Luther King Jr. Park Pack Square Park

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Black Mountain

• Hard Lox Jewish Festival Downtown Asheville Carrier Park

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CONTINUED

Community Heritage Festival

Photo courtesy of the East

• Southern Highland Craft Guild Fair Harrah’s Cherokee Center, downtown Asheville

NOVEMBER • Asheville Holiday Parade Downtown Asheville

• Weaverville Art Safari Studio Tour Weaverville area

rhood Association

End/Valley Street Neighbo

DECEMBER • Festival of Lights

Lake Julian Park and Marina

• Christmas at Connemara Carl Sandburg Home NHS

• The Big Crafty

Harrah’s Cherokee Center, downtown Asheville

The Venue

• Biltmore House (Christmas tree, Candlelight Evenings and festivities)

Asheville Outlets

• Lindy Focus

• Taste of Asheville • Food Truck & Craft Beer Festival • River Arts District Studio Stroll River Arts District

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Crowne Plaza Resort

• Victorian Christmas Smith-McDowell House

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Julian Price

visionary fixer-upper M A K IN G

Asheville

Photo by Meg MacLeod

Hands-on philanthropy means getting on your knees sometimes.

Not long after Julian Price arrived in Asheville in 1989, he began championing the goal of transforming downtown into a livable community and a vibrant business district — at a time when almost no one lived downtown and many commercial buildings were vacant or boarded up.

In the 12 years before Julian died in 2001, no task seemed too large or too small for him. When he saw downtown’s sidewalk benches, which he’d helped pay for, in disrepair, he didn’t wait for city workers to fix them. When the Self-Help Credit Union — known for its social justice agenda — wasn’t willing to expand from Raleigh to Asheville, Julian lured it here by buying it an abandoned eight-story building, the Public Service Building on Wall Street, in which it could operate.

When virtually no one was willing to invest in downtown’s (often historic) buildings to jump-start businesses or create apartments and condos, he founded his own company, Public Interest Projects, to get the job done.

When Julian couldn’t find a vegetarian restaurant downtown, he approached two young entrepreneurs who were operating a lunch counter and offered to back them in their next venture. The result: Laughing Seed, which still serves delicious meat-free lunches and dinners on Wall Street to this day.

When Julian found someone hard at work on a locally focused dream, he typically asked if he could help. Asheville’s weekly newspaper, Mountain Xpress — which publishes this guide — was one such beneficiary.

Other Asheville landmarks and signature businesses launched by or given a hand up by Julian Price include: The Orange Peel, the Grove Arcade, Pack Place, the Historic Preservation Society, Salsa’s and Zambra’s restaurants. By the time he died, Julian had invested or donated more than $15 million in downtown businesses and projects.

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CREATIVE. COLLABORATIVE. CLASSICAL. PURCHASE TICKETS ONLINE, BY PHONE OR IN PERSON

Asheville Symphony Office

27 College Place, Suite 100 AVL • 828.254.7046

Ashevillesymphony.org

@asheville.symphony M O U N TA I N X P R E S S

@avlsymphony

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Food

THE MULTITUDINOUS JOYS OF EATING …

IN ASHEVILLE Photo by Pat Barcas

Whether you eat to live or live to eat, Asheville is a city like no other when it comes to food and drink. Sure, it delivers the goods with a smorgasbord of nationally acclaimed restaurants, a thriving community of growers and makers and the secondhighest number of craft breweries per capita in the nation. But Asheville also takes things up a notch, leveraging its quirky and creative culture to make dining and imbibing an adventure. This is the city for: BIRD’S-EYE VIEWS Fancy imbibing a craft cocktail or local brew against a panoramic view of the Western North Carolina mountains? Make your way to one of Asheville’s numerous rooftop bars, offering everything from mojitos at Hemingway’s Cuba atop the downtown Cambria Hotel to beer under the stars at East Asheville’s Highland Brewing Co. EVENT HORIZONS Asheville celebrates its food and drink throughout the year with a constantly changing roster of events, including food truck roundups, burger battles, mac ’n’ cheese challenges, cocktail competitions, fermentation festivals and a host of others.

Chow Chow, which debuted September 2019, is Asheville’s newest annual extravaganza, featuring a mix of big-name chefs (José Andrés and Vivian Howard were among the 2019 stars), local talent and Appalachian flavors.

For the dish on WNC’s

independent restaurants, craft breweries, cideries, distilleries and more

GUIDE

pick up a free copy of the Mountain Xpress Eats & Drinks Guide.

2019 –202

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Photo by Johnny Autry, Courtesy of Benne on Eagle

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BEST OUTDOOR MUSIC VENUE

MUSIC - FOOD - FUN

466 RIVERSIDE DRIVE, ASHEVILLE, NC

Retail Wine Shop & Wine Bar

Perfect for after work, before dinner, or when you just need a shopping break in Historic Biltmore Village Bottle sales • Wines by the glass • Wine tastings Private events • Gift certificates

5 All Souls Crescent (828) 552-3905 • ashevillewinesalon.com *Parking located behind the store

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THE HOP

Ice Cream Café #1 ICE CREAM 2nd Place Frozen Treats Other Than Ice Cream 3rd Place Locally-Made CBD Treats THE HOP • 640 Merrimon Ave THE HOP WEST • 721 Haywood Rd BLACK MOUNTAIN • 114 Cherry St

TheHopIceCreamCafe.com

THIS IS HOW IT’S DONE.

(828) 398-6200 • ruthschris.com 26 All Souls Crescent, AVL M O U N TA I N X P R E S S

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FOOD OFFBEAT PERSPECTIVES From an upscale, wood-fired dinner in a riverfront shipping container to sandwiches and milkshakes in a tucked-away library of more than 600 board games, Asheville prides itself on offering captivatingly unconventional dining experiences.

HIT THE TRAIL In Asheville, being an aficionado of food or drink doesn’t always mean bellying up to a table or bar. The city is the jumpingoff point for exploring the area’s vibrant and innovative farming community and multitude of craft industries: The Farm Heritage Trail, WNC Cheese Trail and WNC Wine Trail are just a few options for active outings that connect visitors to local makers and products.

Photo by Thomas Calder

We are Asheville’s neighborhood restaurant in the historic Chestnut Hill area, between Downtown and the Grove Park Inn.

94 Charlotte St 828-505-2849 boneandbrothasheville.com

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SCRATCH MADE DELICIOUSNESS 491 Sardis Rd, Asheville 828-633-6868 sandhillkitchen.com Mon-Wed 7am-3pm Thurs-Fri 7am-8pm Saturday 8am-8pm

FIELD GUIDE TO ASHEVILLE

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Looking for delicious scratch made food nearby?

Look no further than Asheville Sandwich Company!

Voted “Best of WNC” for 4 years • Local Favorite • Food Delivery • Trail Boxes Located on historic Haywood Road in West Asheville 794 Haywood Rd, Asheville, NC 28806 * 828-505-8070

AshevilleSandwichCompany.com

M O U N TA I N X P R E S S

@ avlsandwichcompany

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BEER Cider, Distilled Beverages

Adventures From Micro To Macro

Photo by Katy Luquire courtesy of Urban Orchard Cider

@urbanorchardciderco

The Asheville beer industry receives plenty of attention on a national scale, to the point that you may feel a bit daunted by the challenge of navigating the scene once you’re here. With nearly 30 breweries within city limits — and a handful of them operating multiple taprooms — visitors looking to get the most out of their trip should consider trying one of the following approaches: MAXIMIZE YOUR TIME Downtown Asheville sports six breweries within a few blocks of each other, and you’ll find 10 more in the highly lauded South Slope brewing district just a few blocks away. And while the five breweries in West Asheville aren’t quite as close to one another, the neighborhood sights seen while walking between them are fine consolation prizes.

TOUR THE MAJOR PLAYERS Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. in nearby Mills River and New Belgium Brewing Co. in Asheville’s River Arts District are warranted destinations for beer tourists from across the country.

Once you’ve locked down your vacation dates, go ahead and reserve your spots for a free tour at these nationally distributed breweries’ East Coast facilities. They fill up fast.

GO ROGUE

Not into crowds? Interested in brews that are all but unavailable at downtown bars and taprooms? Weaverville, Fairview and Black Mountain are all short drives away and feature their own distinct brewing scenes. If you want to see what the true microbreweries are up to, enlist a designated driver or ride-share service and go the extra mile — 9-to-16 miles per outing, to be precise. It’s well worth the effort.

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BEER, CIDER, DISTILLED BEVERAGES INVESTIGATE LOCAL SPIRITS Distilling is a craft intrinsic to Appalachian culture, and modern Asheville honors that heritage with a flourishing artisan spirits industry. From classic moonshine to small-batch gin, vodka and whiskeys — and even a locally sourced fernet — local distillery tasting rooms offer a broad range of experiences.

Though long hampered by North Carolina’s outmoded liquor laws, recent legislation has enabled many local artisans to expand their businesses to include full cocktail bars.

SIP THE CIDERS Whether due to personal health or a desire to try something new, odds are good that not everyone in your crew will want to stick solely to beer. Fortunately, neighboring Henderson County is an apple-growing paradise, and the dedication by area beveragemakers to utilize local ingredients has resulted in a robust cider industry. Offerings range from downtown cidery taprooms to at least one cider option at practically every Asheville brewery — including a few house-made varieties by brewers who’ve embraced the fruit.

VISIT A BOTTLE SHOP Asheville is home to several well-curated stores where you can stock up on your favorite beverages from the weekend and try out intriguing new options. Best of all, you can sip on a pint while browsing — and, if you get home and want some more, most of the businesses will be happy to mail you additional bottles and cans.

Photo by Luke Van Hine

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Hot Sauce Company

West Asheville Neighborhood Lounge Local Drafts & Cocktails

Capture the Flavor, Spread the Heat ™

Across from the Greenway at Carrier Park 219 Amboy Road Asheville, NC 28806

Small batch • Hand made • Flavor first, heat second Vegan • Gluten Free • Low Sodium • No Added Sugar

found in Over 100 of the Best Restaurants & Stores in Asheville

Daidala Ciders is located in the Cotton Mill Studios in Asheville's River Arts District. Enjoy everything from barrel aged to fruit-forward ciders in their taproom which is shared with local artist, Andy Herod. Together they've created a cozy atmosphere in an eclectic space tucked between the railroad tracks and the French Broad River.

122 Riverside Dr Studio A, Asheville, NC 28801 (828) 417-7800

daidalaciders.com

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Come in & experience

25 years

of Coffee Crafting

Have you tried Bean Werks Coffee?

We are not only just about coffee Bulk Tea • Coffee & Tea Equipment • Service 753 Haywood Road, Asheville, NC 28806

828-254-7766 • Beanwerks.com

Downtow

Eclectic Me Patio • 13 T 110” Proje Shuffl Open 7 Day

Downtown on the Park Large Eclectic Menu • Full Bar • Parkside Patio Over 30 Beers on Tap (many local and regional brews 13 TV’s (including 110” big screen) • Event Space Open 7 Days 11am - Late Night

LIVE MUSIC... never

out our event venu LIVE MUSIC... Check never a cover

THE CENTURY RO

Check out our event wwwvenue, .thecenturyroom.co

THE CENTURY ROOM

20 www S. Spruce St. • (828) 225.6944 • PACK .thecenturyroom .com 20 S. Spruce St. • (828) 225.6944 • PACKSTAVERN.COM 90

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Seasonal cuisine, creative cocktails, and diverse wine list for all occasions 715 Haywood Rd, West Asheville 828-785-1761 Jargonrestaurant.com

Dinner Nightly

Tattooing. Piercing.

Henna.

32 N LEXINGTON AVE, ASHEVILLE NC 28801| 828-424-7316

BEST OF

WNC

B EST OF WN C

2019-2020

the Definitive

gu ide

AWARDS

GUIDE

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M O U N TA I N X P R E S S

Asheville’s Favorites People, Places , Goods & Se rvices

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New Belgium Brewing p. 87 Daidala Ciders p. 89 NC Glass Center p. 45 MustAsheville Bikes p. 29 ClimbMax Climbing at SMAC p. 27 6 Cascade Lounge p. 89

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1 ClimbMax Climbing p. 27 2 The Market Place Restaurant p. 85 3 Appalachia Guild of Healing Arts p. 61 4 Ten Thousand Villages p. 23 5 Awakening the Spirit p. 59 6 Spiritex p. 9 7 The Spice & Tea Exchange p. 36 8 Malaprop’s p. 55 9 Karen Donatelli Bakery & Cafe p. 99 10 The Lobster Trap p. 83 11 Papa Nick’s p. 4 12 Farm Burger p. 79 13 Lust and Lore Tattoo p. 91 14 Moonlight Makers p. 37

15 Dobra Tea p. 71 16 Bob Moog Foundation / Moogseum p. 44 17 VaVaVooom p. 38 18 Static Age Records p. 55 19 Mellow Mushroom p. 9 20 Shindig on the Green p. 47 21 Pack’s Tavern p. 90 22 Bellagio p. 25 23 Shanghai Dumpling House p. 78 24 Ashveville Holistic Realty p. 20 25 Zen Ink p. 77 26 Tracey Morgan Gallery p. 73 27 Carmen’s Healing Art Center p. 59 28 Asheville Symphony p. 77

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Asheville Brewers Supply p. 20 Bikes N‘ Brews p. 55 The Hop Ice Cream Cafe p. 83 Mountain Dance and Folk Festival p. 47 5 Elements Real Food p. 17 6 Bone & Broth p. 84 7 Salvage Station p. 82

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12 Grace Covenant Church p. 13 Vintage Kava p. 55 Navitat Canopy Adventures p. 29 Camp Hobbit Hill p. 65 Horse Sense of the Carolinas p. 69 Mt. Mitchell Crafts Fair p. 17 Wolf Ridge Ski Resort p. 28

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Claying Around p. 73 Lulu’s Consignment Boutique p. 32 Sylvan Sport p. 63 Sunrift Adventures p. 31

(Outlying Areas)

12 American Sound Truck p. 49 13 Sweeten Creek Antiques p. 35 14 Roots + Wings School of Art and Design p. 75 15 The Regeneration Station p. 39 16 Suraj Spa Salon p. 60

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1 Ebb & Flow p. 56 2 Asheville Sandwich Co. p. 85 3 Bean Werks p. 90 4 Jargon p. 91 5 Dobra Tea p. 71 6 The Littlest Birds p. 65 7 Free Body Massage p. 60 8 Fleetwood’s p. 71 9 Second Gear p. 31 10 Whist p. 23 11 Ambrose West p. 14

FIELD GUIDE TO ASHEVILLE

Asheville Custom eBikes p. 11 Adventure Center of Asheville p. 2 Cascade Lounge p. 89 ClimbMax Climbing at SMAC p. 27 Sand Hill Kitchen p. 84 Asheville Holistic Realty p. 20

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Batton Clay Works p. 75 Swannanoa/ Highland Brewing Co. p. 87 Black Mountain WNC Nature Center. p. 65 Cherry Tree Beads p. 35 Mans Ruin Tattoo & Milton’s Cuisine & Cocktails / Piercing p. 55 Monte Vista Hotel p. 78 Outlying Areas Black Mountain Recreation & Parks & Cafe p. 9 Klingspor’s Woodworking Shop p. 45

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A Great Town Deserves A Great Newspaper News Opinion Arts Events Food Wellness Beer Movies

Free every week!

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Bakery & Café 57 Haywood Street DOWNTOWN ASHEVILLE 828-225-5751 www.donatellicakedesigns.com M O U N TA I N X P R E S S

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Lunch • Dinner • Brunch on and offsite catering

Fresh Mex with a Twist of Asheville Historic Biltmore Village 10 Biltmore Plaza cantinabiltmore.com