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www.ymliverpool.com December " !# | FREE
ULTIMATE CHRISTMAS DINNE R RECIPES FROM
TOP CITY CHEFS
FOOD
A Fraiche start
SPOTLIGHT
A family affair
Marc Wilkinson on plans for his Michelin star restaurant Christmas & NYE attractions
Ince Blundell’s fascinating history |
Winter street style
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YML467 1-23.qxp_x 19/11/2018 16:11 Page 5
Issue
December Welcome to the December issue of YM Liverpool, packed with Christmas cheer and tips for the season. If you’re wondering how to tackle this year’s all important dinner or looking to brighten up your seasonal décor, help is at hand. Plus we highlight some of the top attractions to help you embrace the city’s festivities, and shine the spotlight on some worthy local causes if you’re planning to give a little during the season of good will. Meanwhile Marc Wilkinson takes time out from running his Michelin starred Wirral restaurant Fraiche to tell us about his culinary success, hopes for Liverpool’s restaurant scene and future plans. If that’s not enough, we delve into the family-focused history of Ince Blundell and our restaurant reviewer experiences a cocktail-filled trip to Carlisi. We’d like to take this opportunity to wish all of YM Liverpool’s readers and supporters a very happy Christmas, and we look forward to continuing to celebrate the Liverpool City Region with you in 2019.
INSIDE -4 The Interview Chef and restauranteur Marc Wilkinson on his Michelin star success at Fraiche.
.2 Dine Together Sit down for a meal in one of our chosen stunning dining rooms.
/- A Family Affair: Spotlight on Ince Blundell We delve into the history of the semi-rural suburb, and find out what it offers to residents today.
/1 Interiors Decorate your Christmas tree with the latest rainbow trend.
/2 The Ultimate Christmas Dinner Paul Askew, Ellis Barrie and Maray’s Jon Kelly guide you through a perfect festive feast.
0. Style Counsel Autumn/winter looks from around the city.
00 Restaurant Review Creative cocktails meet Italian authenticity at Carlisi.
NATASHA YOUNG Editor
01 Festive Family Fun
- ON LI N E -
Y M L I V E R P O O L . C O M YMLiverpool
FOLLOW
NYE2018
Make the most of the countdown to Christmas with our pick of attractions.
YMLiverpool
03
YM Liverpool’s guide
Inspiration for your night of celebrations to see in 2019.
ym_liverpool
EDITORIAL & DESIGN
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CONTENTS
E D I TOR’ S LE T T E R
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The Interview
For 11 years now chef Marc Wilkinson has been leading Merseyside’s restaurant scene, holding the area’s only Michelin star for his ‘shed’ Fraiche in Oxton.
INTERVIEW BY NATASHA YOUNG
8
YM Liverpool
As he prepares to end the restaurant’s chapter in the Wirral location, he talks to YM Liverpool about his motivation, inspiration, hopes for Liverpool’s food scene and forthcoming plans.
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PEOPLE
Tell us about your culinary background before you opened Fraiche: From [the age of] 15 I’ve been working in kitchens so it’s been a long old haul. I worked in a lot of hotels, such as the Chester Grosvenor, and I worked at The Grand and the Mirabelle Restaurant down south as well as Pennyhill Park which is another five-star hotel. I also worked in Canada for a year. What brought you back to the area to open Fraiche? It’s funny, when you leave you often say ‘I’m never coming back here, that’s it I’m gone!’ and then you end up back here. It was a combination of coming back to where family was and trying to achieve something in Merseyside because, at the time, no one had achieved anything culinary actually in Merseyside. We’d had great chefs from Merseyside going out of [the area], but no one had actually brought it back into Merseyside so I thought ‘there’s a mission for me’. Why did you choose Oxton in particular for Fraiche? Initially I couldn’t afford Liverpool. I looked there but rent, rates and running costs and looking at how you would survive didn’t look feasible. Unfortunately with this type of cooking and style, unless you’re really lucky it’s hard to make profit on it so I started looking further afield and Oxton hit the spot. Do you believe Fraiche’s location has played a part in its success? Initially it does because you have a captive market there. When you’ve got a lot of chimney pots around you it certainly helps. The more you become a destination restaurant, the more people pull towards you so it gets easier.
AWARD-WINNING DISHES Fraiche was recently awarded a Michelin star for the 11 th year. How challenging is it to retain it? Michelin has the reassurance that I’m always there so when they inspect they see me in the kitchen visit after visit. We all have bad days but your bad day has got to be at a certain level that never falls below Michelin star standard, which is hard.
What impact does that kind of accolade have on you as a chef in terms of pressure and the daily job? Initially it’s good for your ego - chefs love bling and shiny things! At the start you think ‘ooh yes, I’m a superstar’ and then the reality kicks in and everyone who comes through the door is expecting ‘wow’. The pressure starts to mount. Maybe it’s a double-edged sword because if you were to lose [the star] it’d be so detrimental to your business. Like with everything in life, if there’s bad news it travels so fast. Restaurants I know have lost a star and their businesses have been affected. Sometimes you have to be careful what you wish for. Fraiche still has the only star in Merseyside. What are your thoughts on that? I’m hoping Liverpool is going to achieve a Michelin star in the next year or two and that’ll be great for the city. I don’t want to be possessive like in ‘Lord of the Rings’ so that I am the only one, I’m not like that.
Was achieving a Michelin star always your goal? You can’t let it be your raison d’etre, it’s got to be a nice bonus. If you get too fixated on that you lose sight of what you’re doing and the vision of where you want to go. I’m quite stubborn so I still do the things I want to do and I don’t really listen to other people in that sense, which is why Fraiche is a bit nuts.
People talk about how the restaurant scene, particularly in Liverpool, is quickly changing. You must have seen a lot of change in the 11 years you’ve been achieving these accolades. Yeah it’s vibrant. You can eat better mid-market in Liverpool - whether it’s tapas, Asian or street food it’s definitely a lot better now. The top end is slower coming around but there are places with potential to achieve so let’s keep things crossed and get Liverpool on the map.
How do you describe your food and what do you believe has been the key to your success at Fraiche? Slogging my guts out most of the time! Consistency is key and I’m always there so, food-wise, Fraiche has always been consistent. The consistency of me being there has kept a steady course through the years. It’s passion as well – wanting to improve and put a better plate of food out day after day. I always think if you aim above where your rating is at then, at the very least, your rating will be safe.
What made you want to work in a kitchen, and were there any chefs who inspired you? It was a financially driven motivation, purely – I just wanted a bike and I couldn’t get one unless I went out and earned it. I just wanted a shiny thing - I’m obsessed with shiny things you see, things don’t change! I’ve got a stove that’s a shiny thing now and I polish it every night. It was purely for money then I watched a TV programme called ‘Take Six Chefs’ and that totally blew me away. It opened a door to a world I’d never seen before.
MARC WILKINSON’S BOOK: ‘ONE MAN AND HIS SHED – A REFLECTION OF FRAICHE’ IS DUE OUT IN THE NEW YEAR; FRAICHE IN OXTON WILL CLOSE ON 89 DECEMBER; FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT WWW;RESTAURANTFRAICHE;COM;
Do you mean in terms of the creativity that could be involved? Yeah, and how cool these chefs were. I just thought it was mundane, peeling potatoes and carrots and making roast potatoes, and it was just about functioning - a means to an end to get money. Then all of a sudden I was like ‘oh my!’ and I upgraded where I worked, started buying the books and progressed on. Now I’ve got my own shed with a shiny thing in the kitchen. Where do you get the inspiration for your dishes? I like art and architecture. Sometimes a dish can be visually captivated and initiated from a painting, which sounds a bit up my own bottom but it does happen. I take a picture of a picture and then I work on an ingredient. Or sometimes there’s an influx of an ingredient and you have to work with it. Say you’re gardening and you’ve got courgette flowers coming out of your ears, your inspiration has got to be ‘what am I going to do with these courgette flowers?’ so then you work on the dish that way. You have to look at different angles to conceive a dish and not just pick up a cookery book and say ‘oh yeah I’ll copy that’ which is easy. You’ve got your own cookery book on the way. Can you tell us about it? It’s cheap therapy, as I’ve worked out! It’s about opening the restaurant, running the restaurant and then, in December, closing the restaurant so it’s that journey interspersed with recipes and dishes from over the years. How have you chosen the recipes for it? A couple are popular with regulars and a couple are for personal reasons. There’s a dessert called ‘Fallen Leaves’ which is purely inspired from my father. I used to be my father’s carer and the last walk we had was through Royden Park. I asked him to help me pick some leaves because I was doing an autumn display on the bar with fallen leaves and acorns. The week after that he passed away so the dish I came up with was ‘Fallen Leaves’ and that’s quite important to me, so that’s in the book. When is the book likely to come out? In the new year, and it’s all on me now. We’ve got a good photographer on board and a good chap doing copywrite to convert my waffle into English so it’ll be nice. Hopefully it’ll give me some closure as well with the restaurant. So when the restaurant closes in December, is that it? That’s it for Fraiche [in Oxton], yeah, but Fraiche will move. Fraiche is not dead, just the building. Have you got somewhere else lined up? We’re in talks and I can’t say anything. No contracts are signed but I’m looking at something. What are your ambitions and goals as a chef and restauranteur now? New horizons. It’ll be 15 years [of Fraiche] this December so no time like the present. I think I’ve proved enough there so I am looking at a new challenge. YM Liverpool
9
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STEWART MILNE HOMES / C U R AT E D BY N ATA S H A YO U N G
DIN E together
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YML467 1-23.qxp_x 19/11/2018 16:11 Page 17
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YM Liverpool 17
M YML467 1-23.qxp_x 19/11/2018 16:11 Page 18
MSB unveils new brand as it celebrates 30 years in business ADVERTORIAL
This month Liverpool law firm, MSB, unveils a new look, having undergone an extensive brand-refresh. The brand update coincides with its 30th anniversary in business and follows a series of changes at the firm, particularly within the senior management team. Emma Carey, who took up the mantle of managing partner in March, says the rebrand signifies the beginning of a new era for MSB, whilst commemorating its roots and celebrating its growth. She explained: “I am lucky to have started my legal career at MSB and have grown with the firm over the last 20 years. I am incredibly proud to have played a part in its journey, from humble beginnings in a former pet shop on Rice Lane, to operating three offices across the city. “I am forever grateful for the support, encouragement and opportunities afforded to me by our former managing partner, Paul Bibby, and only hope that I can inspire young lawyers at MSB in the same way he has
inspired me. “Huge credit should go to Sean Sexton, the founding partner of MSB who remains a senior partner and head of our crime team. Sean's work on some of the country's most highprofile criminal cases has rightly earned him a strong reputation within the city’s legal profession and beyond, and has played a key role in our story so far. “We have grown from a three-partner to 13partner firm, and the commitment, loyalty and ambition of all of those partners – and indeed our entire team – will be pivotal to our continued growth. “This rebrand is not about changing who we are or where we have been, it is about defining who we are now and where we are headed. “It is about establishing a new vision, setting new goals and aspirations, looking to the future and moving forward purposefully and positively – but with the same core values and commitment to excellence still an integral part of our DNA. “We started life in 1988 with a small team of
For more information visit msbsolicitors.co.uk or call 0151 281 9040.
dedicated professionals. Now, as we unveil our new brand, the energy, drive and dynamism of those early days is imbued within an MSB ‘family’ that now numbers more than 120 people. “The process for the rebrand has been an entirely collaborative process, driven by the fantastic team at Agent Marketing but involving the entire team here at MSB. “When Agent asked our team to offer their honest thoughts about this business, I was overwhelmed with the response. The process revealed a huge sense of pride and a deep well of affection for the way we do things at MSB. “That response has been skilfully encapsulated by Agent and has been used to create powerful vision that will help propel us forward for the next 30 years.” MSB is commemorating its 30th year in business with a month of planned activity throughout November.
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FOOD
SPONSORED
The party season is upon us! Whether you’re hoping to cook up something different for your Christmas and New Year gatherings or you’re already looking ahead to Chinese New Year, we bring you a recipe fit for a celebratory feast.
A plate to celebrate I
mpress your guests by serving up Geleshan Chicken – with instructions courtesy of Kwok Cheung, the head chef at Jin Restaurant in the Crown Plaza hotel at Liverpool John Lennon Airport. Kwok leads the Liverpool team in giving traditional Chinese dishes a modern twist, keeping authenticity at the heart of the menu as they collaborate with Jin’s sister restaurants in Beijing and Hong Kong.
IN G RED IE N T S • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
G eles ha n Ch ic ken
(PER SERVING)
200g chicken b re ast 200ml vegeta b le o il 40g mixed p e p p e rs 40g white on io n 40g celer y 40g car rot 40g leek Quar ter of o ne w h is ke d e g g Potato starc h Soy sauce 10g Szechua n p e p p e rco r n s 10g dr ied bi rd ’s eye c hillies Half a tsp ch illi p owd er Pinch of salt Pinch of gro u nd p e p p e rco r n s Pinch of sugar Sesame seed s 5ml r ice wine Dash of red c hilli o il Fresh cor iand e r
M E THOD Slice the chicken breast thinly and marinate in potato starch, soy sauce and the whisked egg. Set aside.
Slice all vegetables into bite-size stir fry pieces.
Heat a wok with vegetable oil to a blue haze and quickly cook the chicken until cooked through. Then drain off the oil and wash the wok.
Return the wok to the heat and stir fry the vegetables. Add the Szechuan peppercorns, dried chillies, chilli powder, salt, sugar and ground peppercorns. Add the chicken back to the pan and sprinkle with sesame seeds, before finally splashing on the rice wine and plating up the dish. Finish with red chilli oil and coriander.
TO EXP LORE MORE OF JI N R E STAU RAN T ’ S MO DE R N AU T H E N T I C CH I N E S E CU I S I N E VI S I T W W W J I N- RE STAU RA N T COM O R CA L L YM Liverpool 19
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WO R D S BY L AW R E N C E S AU N D E R S
F A M I L Y
A F F A I R :
SPOTLIGHT on
INCE BLUNDELL
Step back in time with YM Liverpool as we delve deep into the past of a historic Sefton village and discover the remarkable story of how a wealthy family transformed one part of the Liverpool City Region forever. 20 YM Liverpool
ead north out of Liverpool, take a right at Crosby, then a left at Thornton, and you’ll arrive in the tiny semi-rural village of Ince Blundell. The ancient parish, possibly Sefton’s oldest settlement, was originally known simply as Ince – a derivative of the Celtic word ‘Hinne’ meaning ‘island in the marsh’. The arrival of a rich Catholic family, the Blundells, as the dominant landowner in the early 12th Century, would give this area a much grander reputation. In the 14th Century, in order to distinguish it from the Ince near Wigan and the Ince in Cheshire, John Blundell added his surname to the village’s title.
H
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Fast-forward to 1720 and it was one Robert Blundell who decided to build a grand mansion for the family – a building which still stands today as the centerpiece of a sprawling estate in the village. Designed by respected local architect Henry Sephton, Ince Blundell Hall (pictured) was completed in 1750 and boasts a ninebay brick front with giant columns and pilasters similar to that of Buckingham Palace. Under threat of prosecution for recusancy (the state of Roman Catholics who refused to attend Anglican services at the time), Robert retired to Liverpool in 1761, upon which time the estate passed into the possession of his eldest son, Henry Blundell. Henry, an avid art collector, extended the main house with offices and began developing the surrounding grounds with a stable block, greenhouses and a kitchen garden. He also oversaw the construction of a wall around the estate’s perimeter, as well as the landscaping of the park, which included a lake. Inspired by his neighbour and eminent antiquarian Charles Townley, Henry embarked on a series of Grand Tours of Europe, chiefly in Italy, bringing home ancient Roman and Greek marble statues as the ultimate souvenirs. As his collection expanded he naturally wanted somewhere to show it off and after a time his greenhouses just wouldn't suffice. So, in around 1790–92 he had the Italian-inspired Garden Temple built to the south west of the main hall to house part of his rich collection of statuary, paintings, sarcophagi, vases, bronzes and other objects of interest. This was followed in approximately 1802-05 with the construction of a more notable building, the Pantheon, based on the iconic Roman temple. When Henry died in 1810 the estate and art collection passed to his only son, Charles Blundell. Charles, like his father, was a keen collector - chiefly of drawings and books. Upon his death in 1837, with no direct male heirs the Ince Blundell estate transferred to his distant cousin Thomas Weld of Lulworth. Thomas extensively restored the hall and added a chapel which is known today as the Church of the Holy Family. It is still used as a Roman Catholic parish church. However as the 1960s approached, the hall and surrounding estate fell into a poor state of disrepair and in 1959 it was sold to the Canonesses of St. Augustine of the Mercy of Jesus. The sisters proceeded to adapt the Grade II*-listed hall for use as a nursing home for the elderly and retired priests. In the same year Colonel Sir Joesph William Weld gifted the estate’s extensive catalogue of statues to National Museums Liverpool. Although the collection has been in the museums’ possession for almost 60 years, it has never been put on display in its entirety. The majority of the works, including the Roman pieces, are under antiquities at World Museum, whilst the 18th Century items can be viewed in the Walker Art Gallery’s sculpture gallery. Charles Blundell of Ince Blundell Hall
Advice from chartered accountants and property tax experts
0151 228 8977
David Glover
Wrong name on the deeds? Q. My husband and I have just sold our buy-to-let property. We bought this many years ago in my name only, as it was easier for just me to get a mortgage at that time, although the deposit money came from our joint savings. We have just sold it achieving a substantial gain. I am a higher rate tax payer but my husband has only a small income and no other gains for this tax year. I have just realised that for Capital Gains Tax purposes, it would have been much better to have had the property registered in joint names – is there anything we can do? A. Firstly, the legally shown owner of an asset is not necessarily the beneficial owner. It is beneficial ownership (not legal ownership) that counts when looking at calculating a Capital Gains Tax liability. Secondly, to reduce the expected tax bill, you will need to be able to argue that the buy-to-let property was jointly beneficially owned, irrespective of what the Title Register or deeds may show. The tax office generally assumes that if one spouse paid for an asset and is shown as the sole legal owner then, unless there is evidence to the contrary, they are also considered to be the beneficial owner. However, HMRC have confirmed that they will take a number of factors into consideration when determining the true beneficial ownership of an asset such as this property. These can include: • Who received the rental income and was it paid into a joint account and enjoyed by both of you? • Legal title, i.e. whose name is on the Title Documents or deeds? • Who provided the funds to purchase the property – can you demonstrate that the deposit came from a joint savings account? • Receipt of sale proceeds on disposal – What happened to these and were they paid into a joint account or divided equally between you? None of these factors should be considered in isolation, and each case must be considered on its own merits. Obviously it will help to be able to support the facts. HMRC may also look at other background information. So if you and your husband hold all other assets jointly, then this could also be a helpful factor in demonstrating joint ownership and, whether a reduced tax bill is appropriate. Keeping good records and getting hold of clear evidence is extremely important, particularly in cases where beneficial ownership is unclear.
As with all things tax, it does make sense to take appropriate professional advice.
375 Eaton Road, West Derby, Liverpool L12 2AH Please note that this article is not intended to give specific technical or financial advice and it should not be construed as doing so. It is designed only to alert readers to some of the issues. It is not intended to give exhaustive coverage of any topic. Professional advice should always be sought before action is either taken or refrained from as a result of information contained herein.
Photo: Flickr.com / User: silver-novice
YM Liverpool 21
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The Grade II-listed Village Cross on Lady Green Lane
I n c e B l u n d e l l t o d a y
SAMPLE HOUSE PRIC ES Currently on the market... £225k - Two-bedroom cottage £420k - Three-bedroom barn
Colette Birch, clerk of Ince Blundell Parish Council, says the village is a good place to live with “lovely walks and great countryside as well as being close to Southport for the seaside and Liverpool for a fabulous city”. According to Colette, who has been a local for the last three decades, the Blundell family of Lulworth Cove in Dorset still owns property in the village. For any commoners interested in owning their own slice of this historic parish, there are a few housing options available to you. As you might expect, the housing market in Ince Blundell isn’t exactly what you'd describe as bustling. In fact, according to Rightmove, two properties are all that’s been sold in the area since January. Despite this, at the time of going to press, a spacious two-bedroom cottage on Carr House Lane is available for £225,000 with a south-facing rear garden offering glorious views over nearby farmlands. Meanwhile a three-bedroom converted barn on Hall Lane is looking for offers over £420,000. The detached property benefits from solid oak wood flooring and exposed brickwork beams throughout, as well as a double garage and immaculately kept driveway with electric gates.
“Close to Southport for the seaside and Liverpool for a fabulous city.” Photo: Wikimedia Commons / User: Rept0n1x / CC-BY-SA-2.0
A CURATOR’S PERSPECTIVE YM Liverpool spoke to Dr. Chrissy Partheni, curator of classical antiquities at World Museum, to find out more about the Blundell treasures the largest collection of classical sculpture in Britain outside of the British Museum. Q: How important is the Blundell collection to the museum?
Q: Are there any particularly significant or rare pieces in the collection?
“It’s amazing that the collection is on our doorstep here in Liverpool. “It’s fascinating because it tells the story of British 18th Century collecting practices, the importance of the Grand Tour and classical education for the wealthy and elite. “The statues are of such great value and are comparable to similar pieces in internationally known museums such as the Vatican and the Louvre. “It’s also important that Henry Blundell’s collection remains in its entirety in a national museum outside London and not dispersed among different private collectors and institutions.”
“Which pieces are rare or important can be a bit of an ambivalent question; what is important and rare for scholars may not be necessarily what visitors would appreciate. “The over life-size statues of gods such as Jupiter and Mars are breathtaking. In the case of Jupiter it is amazing how such a massive piece was preserved over centuries without major repairs or even of how they were brought back to Britain. “Statues of deities such as the Ince Athena, Apollo the Lizard Killer (Sauroktonos) and Venus the Euploia are also unique because of their references to Greek art and the ways Roman artists extensively copied and enriched the Ancient Greek traditions.”
22 YM Liverpool
@Natio
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YM Liverpool 23
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HOME
Rainbow indented bauble £8, John Lewis
Set of nine rainbow baubles £10, Paperchase
Sunnylife Christmas bauble £7, Utility Design Comet, set of two multi-coloured ziz zag baubles £12, Habitat
Set of four pom pom baubles £14, Next
Compiled by Tilly Hamilton
A CHRISTMAS Brighten up the festive décor this year. Set of ten pom poms by Li)lenestbox £30, notonthehighstreet
Multibox of 32 rainbow baubles £25, John Lewis
Set of six multi-coloured crackers £20, Habitat
STOCKISTS( habitat.co.uk johnlewis.com next.co.uk paperchase.com notonthehighstreet.com utilitydesign.co.uk YM Liverpool 25
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THE ULTIMATE
CHRISTMAS DINNER YM Liverpool has enlisted some of the city’s top chefs to serve up recipes for three fabulously festive courses which are sure to wow your guests.
Seared king scallop with black pudding and romanesco cous cous by Paul Askew
Aside from being chef patron of critically acclaimed restaurant The Art School, award-winning Paul Askew has released a book ‘Onwards and Upwards’ - and shared his culinary expertise on TV shows including ‘Celebrity Masterchef ’. Now he’s passing on winter cooking wisdom to YM Liverpool, with a starter that’ll set the tone for a spectacular Christmas feast.
For the Romanesco Cous Cous INGREDIENTS ' • A third of a head of romanesco (or cauliflower) • Half a lemon, squeezed • 20g chopped chives
• Splash of good fresh stock • Bok choi shoots for garnish • Knob of bu8er
METH OD' In the food processor, add the third of the romanesco and blitz to a chunky breadcrumb consistency. Add a squeeze of lemon juice and the chopped chives, and season to taste. Mix together and place in the fridge until ready to use. Using the remainder of the romanesco, blanch the florettes in boiling salted water for two minutes. Remove, placing directly into iced water to stop the cooking process. Drain the florettes on kitchen cloth to rid of any excess water. Cut lengthways down each florette to create a flat surface When all elements are ready to be plated, add the florettes to a hot cast iron pan with a splash of oil to char the surface. Finish with a knob of butter and use to garnish the final dish.
For the Puree INGREDIENTS ' • Splash of vegetable oil • Knob of bu8er • 120g golden raisins • One banana shallot, peeled and finely diced
• • • • •
METH OD' Pre-soak the raisins in the dessert wine and white wine vinegar for 30 minutes. In a large pan sweat off the shallots and garlic on a medium heat, using the vegetable oil and a knob of butter.
Add to the pan the soaked raisins and bring to the boil. Simmer for two to three minutes until the raisins are soft, and then blend them down to a puree using a hand blender. Season to taste.
26 YM Liverpool
One clove of peeled garlic 50ml dessert wine 10ml white wine vinegar Sea salt flakes Ground white pepper to taste
For the Scallops and Black Pudding I N G R E DI E N TS ' • Splash of oil • Four diver-caught king scallops in the shell (ask your fishmonger to prepare them if you prefer) • One Granny Smith apple
• Four pieces of black pudding cut into scallop-sized rounds • Squeeze of lemon juice • Sea salt flakes • Quality fish seasoning • Knob of bu8er
M E T H O D' To prepare the scallops in the shell, remove the medallion from the shell. Remove the roe and the frill, ensuring all the membranes are removed. At this stage, place the medallions onto a blue jay-cloth to draw out moisture content before cooking. This is extremely important to ensure the perfect cooking of your scallop, and frozen or tubs of scallops should not be used for this reason. Using a cast iron heavy bottomed frying pan, heat on a high temperature to almost smoking but not burning. Using a splash of oil, add the scallops to the pan. Season the scallop on the presentation side using sea salt flakes. This would be the side that was connected to the flat part of
the shell, not connected to the foot of the scallop where the rounded part of the shell is. On the foot of the scallop sprinkle a little of the fish seasoning. At the same time as cooking the scallops, add the black pudding to the pan. Sear the scallops for a minute until they are golden brown, before carefully turning them over and adding a knob of butter. Turn the black pudding at the same time. Cook for another 30 seconds to a minute, maximum, to ensure your perfect scallop is of a translucent colour through the centre. Don’t overcook the scallop. When they’re cooked, remove them from the pan and place onto a cloth to rid of any excess grease. Cut the Granny Smith apple into sticks, with a squeeze of lemon over the top to avoid discolouring.
To assemble the plate... lay the romanseco cous cous, golden raised puree and scallops as shown in the photograph. The Granny Smith apple sticks are used to finish the final plate adding acidity and balance to the final dish along with the crisp earthy flavour of the baby Bok choi shoots. Finish with a drizzle of the fresh stock.
xmas dinner.qxp_x 23/11/2018 12:13 Page 2
food
The perfect turkey Photo: Celynnen Photography
by Ellis Barrie
From competing in the BBC’s 2018 ‘Great British Menu’ series to announcing a new Barrie Bros restaurant for Royal Albert Dock in 2019, it’s been a busy time for Liverpool’s own Ellis Barrie. The chef, who also runs Anglesey’s Marram Grass restaurant with his brother Liam and has plans for a cookery school, still found the time to rustle up this ultimate guide for cooking your Christmas Day turkey:
Making the stuffing ingredienTs : • 300g pancetta, diced and pan fried until golden • 700g sausage meat from the butchers • Large onion, sliced and caramelised • 50g sage • 30g rosemary • 30g thyme • 250g of chopped dates • 100g chopped apricots
Preparing the Bird
• • • • • • • • • •
30g chopped garlic 50g chopped parsley Zest and juice of two oranges 700g fresh bread crumbs 30ml olive oil 10g ground ginger 30g nutmeg 100g honey Salt Pepper
MeThod: Blend the ingredients together apart from the sausage meat and the bread crumbs, then fold the blended ingredients with the bread crumbs and sausage meat.
Pick your bird sensibly. I recommend a medium-sized bird so that the breast doesn’t dry out while the leg finishes cooking, as with a bigger bird. Brine your bird for 12-24 hours - this helps to keep the bird moist during cooking. T h e B r i n e r eC i P e i s as fo l lows : - One part salt to five parts water – then take a cloth and clean the make enough to immerse the inside of your turkey. whole bird in liquid. - Put the turkey into a snug, deep - Bring the salt and water to a high pot and pour the cool brine all temperature on the stove to over, immersing the bird. dissolve salt – don’t boil or simmer! - Refrigerate for 12-24 hours. - Add aromats to flavour your - Remove the turkey from the brine turkey (e.g. juniper, rosemary, and dry thoroughly with a cloth. thyme, cinnamon, all spice, sage, - For a crisp skin, allow the turkey garlic and citrus fruit peels) and to air dry in the fridge for a leave to cool. further 24 hours with a loose - Remove the giblets from the bird cover over it.
Cooking the Bird When you’re ready to cook the bird, pre-heat the oven to 175°C. Run your fingers between the skin of the turkey, separating it from the meat, but make sure it remains attached to the carcass. Make a butter with 50g of chopped sage, the zest of two oranges, 500g of butter and two garlic cloves by blending it all together in a food processor. Massage the butter all around the bird in between the skin and flesh. Cover the bottom of a deep roast oven tray with rough cut celery, carrots, garlic and onions. Fill the cavity of the bird with your stuffing mix and sit it on top of your vegetable base. Cover with tin foil and add to the oven. For every 500g of bird weight, cook for 20 minutes.
Remove the tin foil for the last 40 minutes of cooking and crank the heat up to 185°C At this point, add two cups of water into the roasting tray. This will add steam into the oven to help crisp the skin and will also deglaze the roasting juices, allowing you to make a nice gravy at the end of the roast. Once you’ve cooked the turkey for the correct time remove it from the oven, add a bit more water to the roasting tray and deglaze the tray. Allow the bird to rest for a good 40 minutes before carving – this will allow it to maintain the moisture while carving. Remove the carrots and celery and discard, blend the juices and onions and add a little flour to thicken the gravy.
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FOOD
‘The Spicing on the Cake’ by Jon Kelly
Maray has become a firm favourite on Liverpool’s food and drink scene with its eateries on Bold Street and Allerton Road. Fresh from a mention in the 2019 Good Food Guide, the restaurant’s Allerton head chef, Jon Kelly, has crafted this special festive dessert for our readers – a classic Christmas pudding with a special Maray twist.
For the Ras El Hanout Cream
For the Pomegranate Syrup
INGRE DIENTS ' • One tsp of ras el hanout spice mix (available in most international grocery shops) • 150ml double cream • 150ml milk • 50g sugar • Two egg yolks ME TH OD' Add the sugar to the egg yolks and whisk until pale and thick. Put the cream and milk into a medium saucepan with the tsp of ras el hanout spice, and heat until just below boiling. Slowly pour the hot cream and milk onto the eggs and sugar, whisking as you go. Sieve the custard into a clean pan and set it over a very low heat. Stir the custard constantly with a wooden spoon, paying special attention to the corners of the pan, until it is steaming and has thickened slightly. The custard is ready when you can draw a clear line through it on the back of the wooden spoon. This can take up to 10 minutes.
I NG RED I ENTS ' • Half a litre of pomegranate juice • 50g caster sugar • 50ml lemon juice M ET HOD ' Bring the pomegranate juice, sugar and lemon juice to a simmer in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Once the sugar has dissolved, reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the juice has reduced to 350ml. Allow to cool.
For the Apricot Vinegar
• • • •
I NG RED I ENTS ' 500g dried apricots 250ml white wine vinegar 50g sugar 100ml water
M ET HOD ' Place the ingredients in a saucepan and simmer for 10 minutes. Blitz then pass through a sieve.
For the Pudding I N G R E DI E N TS ' • 300g good quality mincemeat • 140g fine shred orange marmalade • 200g molasses • Four tbsp treacle • Three eggs, beaten • Four tbsp whisky • 200g self-raising flour
• 100g bu8er, frozen and coarsely grated • Pomegranate (for garnish) • Almonds (for garnish) • Pistachios (for garnish) • Suma (for garnish) • Mint (for garnish)
ME T H O D' Butter and line the base of a 1.5-litre pudding basin with greaseproof paper. In a large bowl stir the ingredients together, adding them one at a time in the order they are listed, until everything is completely mixed. Tip the pudding mix into the basin and cover with a circle of greaseproof paper. Place in the oven at 180°C for 45 minutes. Leave to stand for five minutes, then turn out and serve with the ras el hanout cream, pomegranate syrup and apricot vinegar. Garnish with pomegranate, almonds, pistachios, sumac and mint.
SPREAD THE CHEER ‘Tis the season of good will and if you’re looking to give a little this year there are plenty of ways to help those in need around Liverpool. We’ve rounded up some of the causes and Christmas campaigns looking for donations of essential foods to extra festive treats: As always the MYA (Merseyside Youth Association) Food Bank is seeking donations of non-perishable food items as well as toiletries, and has also launched a Christmas collection in the run-up to the festive season. It’ll be preparing food packages to see its young service users (under 25) through while the MYA is closed for Christmas from 20 December. Anyone wishing to donate items can leave goods in the reception of the Hanover Street 28 YM Liverpool
base between 9am and 5pm from Monday to Friday prior to the final pre-Christmas food bank on Wednesday 19 December. Liverpool’s homelessness and housing charity, The Whitechapel Centre is once again preparing to cook up Christmas Day and Boxing Day lunches and is looking for donations to help. Non-perishable foods, bottled water and cordial as well as festive treats such as mince pies are required, however homemade meals and cakes can’t be accepted. Decorations and gifts can also be given to support the initiative, with useful items listed at www.whitechapelcentre.co.uk/donate-goods. The last day for Christmas food donations is 21 December. The Micah Liverpool Food Bank, set up by Liverpool Cathedral, Liverpool Metropolitan
Cathedral and St Bride’s Church, is hoping for a December increase in food donations to cater for the rise in demand. Non-perishable items can be dropped off at Liverpool Cathedral’s donation point, and the organisation is also looking for special festive contributions. Donating selection boxes will help Micah Liverpool with its plan to give one to every child and every adult using the food bank in the week leading up to Christmas, whilst toy donations will enable children to also receive a gift. The Trussell Trust operates a number of food banks around the Liverpool City Region, including the North Liverpool Food Bank and the South Liverpool Food Bank. For more information on your nearest centre and how to donate, visit www.trusselltrust.org.
YML467 24-48.qxp_x 19/11/2018 17:38 Page 29
Steeple View STEEPLE VIEW W l LITHERLAND D l L21 8NG
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YML467 24-48.qxp_x 19/11/2018 17:38 Page 30
Thinking about cosmetic surgeryy? There’s still time before C Christmas Spire One Penny Lane Clinic offfers a range of surgiccal and non-surgical cosmetic procedures. Cosmetic surgery can do wonders for the way you look l and feel about yourself and whe en thinking about having cosmetic surgery you will have a lot of que estions. Att Spire One Pen nny Lane Clinic }eup Tpqt Jecqu`tAtXec {X`` IN with your chosen n Consultant Cosmetic or Plasttic Surgeon, who will be with h you throughout yourr journey.. They will be therre to answer all your question ns and see you through your reccovery.. Procedures include: • Breast enlargement • Breast up liftt • Brow liftt • Eye bag removal • Face liftt • Nose re-shape • Tummy tuck
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YML467 24-48.qxp_x 19/11/2018 17:38 Page 31
Style C O U N S E L View more photos @ ym_liverpool
STYLE
YM Liverpool has tracked down some of the most stylish autumn/winter looks around the city. LE STREET STYLE ET STYLE STREET STY E R T S E L Y T S T E E R T S STREET STYLE
Karen
spotted in Liverpool ONE Where is your outfit from? The coat and trousers are from Tesco, the jumper is from New Look, the shoes are from Office and the bag is by Betty Jackson. Who is your style inspiration? I love layering at this time of year and I always wear trousers, never jeans. I love trousers! What is your favourite shop? River Island.
David
spotted on Derby Square Where is your outfit from? The coat is by Ben Sherman, the scarf is from Debenhams, the jumper is from Primark, jeans are from Next, the boots are from Superdry and the glasses are from Specsavers.
Glenys
spotted on School Lane Where is your outfit from? My Coat is from the Kathy Gittins store in Welshpool, the jumper is from Crea Concept, the skirt is from Ivan Grundahl, the bag is from TK Maxx and the boots are DMs – I love Dr. Martens boots!
Who is your style inspiration? Definitely David Bowie, I'm listening to him right now.
Who is your style inspiration? No one really. I used to make my own clothes and I borrow ideas from here and there but I like what I like, really.
What is your favourite shop? Next.
What is your favourite shop? I love Nichols & Co in Chester. YM Liverpool 31
YML467 24-48.qxp_x 19/11/2018 17:38 Page 32
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FOOD
“Mouths were agape as we sliced open the burrata to release a heavenly river of soft cheese and thickened cream... bellissimo.”
Restaurant Review By Lawrence Saunders |
Cocktails/light bites |
Us Liverpudlians are pretty well catered for when it comes to quality Italian restaurants. There’s Amalia, San Carlo and Italian Club Fish in the city centre, or the fabulous Cucina Di Vincenzo out in the suburbs. But what about an authentic Italian café bar which serves food all day? Do we need one? A pair of Sicilian siblings certainly thought so. Stylish Dale Street venue Carlisi is the brainchild of former long-time Il Forno manager Alessio Carlisi, which he runs alongside his brother Federico. Alessio looks after the food whilst his kin administers an extensive drinks offering created with knowledge acquired at city cocktail bar Be At One. Carlisi’s varied food menu covers everything from coffee and cocktails to breakfasts and bruschetta. My wife and I visited on a Friday evening with designs on sampling a handful of drinks and a medley of light bites. Upon entry, Alessio greeted us with a broad smile and stern handshake at the bar before seeing us through to our table on the quieter side of the venue. As we glanced at the menus for the first time, the attentive host started us off with a glass of refreshing Prosecco Bio each (£23.95 a bottle). With bubbles still popping on palettes, we made our first foray into the lengthy cocktail list – each plumping for The Martinez (£6.95) after advice from an exuberant Federico. G’Vine Gin, sweet vermouth, dry vermouth, luxardo maraschino liqueur and Angostura bitters made up this aperitif and despite the presence of ‘mother’s ruin’, which I usually avoid like the plague, it was actually very pleasant. We paired our cocktails with two creations from the Bruschetta Bar - Bruschetta Bufalina and Bruschetta Veggie (both £4.50).
£££ |
Carlisi
92-94 Dale Street, Liverpool L2 5TF |
The former, as the name suggests, combined buffalo mozzarella with cherry tomatoes, basil and extra virgin olive oil on toasted sourdough bread. The latter topped another artisan slice with sundried tomato, mixed peppers, mushrooms, soft creamy cheese and balsamic vinegar. Carlisi’s bread comes direct from Bridgewater Street’s fêted Baltic Bakehouse, whilst its fresh ingredients are imported from Italy. The benefit of using local and authentic produce was writ large with our first two dishes. The unassuming assortment of boss bread and sumptuous cheese with quality dressings and crisp vegetables conjured pleasant memories for my wife and I of Italian summer holidays gone by. In between bites Alessio made one of numerous visits to our table (as he did to other patrons) displaying an attentiveness which, thanks to his affable and genuine nature, did not once edge towards overbearing. Our next nibble was a particular highlight; Grana Padano and Miele (£2.95) - Grana Padano cheese and honey served with more sourdough. The Grana Padano, slightly sweeter than fellow Italian hard cheese Parmigiano-Reggiano, bathed in honey was a gastronomic revelation. Whilst I delighted in the latest dish Federico arrived with my next cocktail, We Love You (£7.95). All his own work, I can see this passionately christened creation of passion fruit puree, Passoa liqueur, raspberry vodka and orgeat syrup topped with rose lemonade, becoming a big favourite. Our assault on Alessio’s Aperitivo Menu continued with Insalata Golosa (£5.95) - a heaving ball of mozzarella-esque burrata cheese served with a mixed leaf salad, sliced bresaola beef and cherry tomatoes.
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Mouths were agape as we sliced open the burrata to release a heavenly river of soft cheese and thickened cream… bellissimo. By this point my partner had quite sensibly decided to call it quits drinks-wise. I on the other hand, possibly (definitely) foolishly, had not. Refreshing blonde beer Menabrea (£3.80) may have managed to do the inconceivable and supplant Birra Moretti as my go-to Italian lager. A classic selection of cured meats and cheeses (£7.95 per person) served with bread sticks and salad would be the evening’s concluding dish. The trio of bold semi-soft and hard cheeses accompanied a generous assortment of magnificent preserved delicacies from across Italy. Sadly there was to be no dessert as a party of four in the corner nabbed the final three cannoli, but I can confirm the dainty creamfilled pastries looked exquisite as Federico whisked them past our table. In an honorable attempt to ease my pain, Federico produced a stunning off-menu Affogato cocktail made with ice cream, rum, coffee espresso and amaretto which went a long way to satisfying my sugar craving. Half-climbing, half-falling into our Uber, I was in no doubt Alessio had accomplished his vision of bringing an authentic Italian bar to Liverpool which offers the best of his homeland’s famous food, drink and hospitality. Head along and say ciao.
LAWRENCE RECOMMENDS--The Grana Padano wit h h o n ey. View food photos @ ym_liverpool YM Liverpool 33
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CULTURE
Festive family fun Get out and about in Liverpool to enjoy the countdown to Christmas – there’s something for everyone.
SUPER-SIZED SANTA
Photo: Dave Jones
WHERE? Museum of Liverpool WHAT’S HAPPENING? Christmas 2018 marks the return of the famous Blackler’s giant Santa to the museum. The statue was formerly in the old Liverpool department store Blackler’s from 1957-1988, and only recently re-emerged in 2016 after being renovated and restored to its former glory. Scousers with fond memories of visiting the shop’s once famous Winter Wonderland Grotto will be reunited with the big man in red, which stands at just over five metres high. Meanwhile the model, which also previously made festive fundraising appearances around the city after the store’s closure, is sure to delight young visitors during the run up to Christmas. Photo: Mark McNulty
SEASON’S SCREENINGS
M o re tha n a grotto WHERE? Liverpool Town Hall WHEN? 1-24 December WHAT’S HAPPENING? The ‘Story Time with Santa’ sessions will see Mr Claus and his best elf ‘Buddy’ spreading Christmas joy amongst families at the city centre landmark. More than your traditional Christmas grotto, the set up includes stories and a song or two in front of a cosy log fire before every child has the chance to tell Father Christmas their festive wishes and receive a gift. Each bookable 45-minute session is only open to 30 children, with two adults per child able to attend free of charge, so snapping up a slot in advance is advised.
SETTINGS FOR A SING-A-LONG WHERE AND WHEN? Liverpool Cathedral on 5 December, and Liverpool Metropolitan Cathedral on 15 December. WHAT’S HAPPENING? There’s nothing quite like hearing Christmas music being sung live in a stunning setting, and this year both of the city’s majestic cathedrals have fabulous family celebrations lined up. Liverpool Cathedral’s ‘Christmas Spectacular’ promises festive favourites performed by more than 250 schoolchildren, a live band, dancers, choral trio ‘ROOTS’ and an appearance by Santa Claus himself. At the other end of Hope Street Liverpool Metropolitan Cathedral will stage its ‘Celebration of Christmas.’ The whole family can enjoy classic carols and traditional readings at the ticketed event, hosted by BBC Radio Merseyside’s Roger Phillips along with special guests.
WHERE? St George’s Hall WHEN? 19-23 December WHAT’S HAPPENING? Pop down to the pop-up Luna Winter Cinema at Liverpool’s iconic St George’s Hall, where a variety of Christmas films will be shown for children and adults alike. Sit back and enjoy popular movies like ‘Die Hard’ and ‘Love Actually’ to ‘Elf ’ and ‘Home Alone’ within the stunning Great Hall, where the Luna Bar will also be serving cinema staples such as popcorn to festive tipples including mulled wine. Book ahead to avoid disappointment. Step outside of the grand venue and you’ll also find Liverpool’s traditional Christmas market on St George’s Plateau from 16 November until 23 December, making it an ideal destination to soak up plenty of seasonal cheer.
Photo: 20th Century Fox
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NEW YEAR
NYE ! "
Y M L I V E R P O O L’ S G U I D E It’s the biggest night of the year, what have you got planned? Nothing? Well don’t worry because YM Liverpool has put together a trio of NYE options to suit a variety of tastes.
Bi g N i ght Ou t Liverpool is well known for being one of the country’s best nights out, but the city takes it to the next level when 31 December rolls around. This year OH ME OH MY isn’t letting us down with an evening of fluorescent fun at its BRING THE NEON event featuring glow in the dark make-up artists and live music from eight-piece New Orleans jazz brass band Hornography. Access to the Goodness Gracious roof garden (pictured) at midnight is on a first come first serve basis but the lucky ones who do make it to the top will be treated to a striking up-close view of Liverpool’s illustrious Royal Liver Building. We head across the river for our second recommendation and a venue a fair bit more rustic than Water Street’s West Africa House. Inspired by David Mancuso's New York loft parties, the Bonsai Hi Fi Sound System party at Claremont Farm in Wirral promises the ultimate get-together for audiophiles. Veteran Liverpool DJ Pooky will fire up his world-class sound system and spin a selection of rare vinyl pressings for a night of soul, funk, disco, reggae and everything in between.
or
PG Rated For many with young children, a heavy night out on the tiles won’t be possible on New Year’s Eve but that doesn't meant you can’t say hello to 2019 in style. The Liverpool International Horse Show is back once again at Echo Arena Liverpool and has a packed line-up of family entertainment planned for the final day of the year. The Shetland Pony ‘Grand National’ and a stunning equine acrobatic and pyrotechnic display will countdown to midnight before a spectacular fireworks show rings in 2019. Of course there’s no law that says you have to go out on the 31st and if you'd rather avoid decamping the whole clan there is still plenty of fun to be had at home. Why not gather the family on the couch to reflect on the past year’s highlights before making resolutions for the 12 months ahead or get everyone in the kitchen for your own ‘Bake Off ’ competition? If all that sounds too much like hard work then there’s always a bottle of sherry somewhere and one neighbour who will join hands for ‘Auld Lang Syne’.
Something a li#le different If the idea of piling into a sweltering nightclub, overpaying for drinks and waiting for your taxi home till the Twelfth Night doesn't appeal to you, here’s a more cultured plan for NYE 2018. Start at 4pm with a trip to Picturehouse at FACT on Wood Street for a screening of the Berliner Philharmoniker’s New Year’s Eve recital - beamed live from the German capital. Conducted by Daniel Barenboim it will feature four famous works by Maurice Ravel, concluding with ‘Boléro’ - best known for soundtracking Jayne Torvill and Christopher Dean’s perfect performance at the 1984 Winter Olympics. Keep your evening going with an after-show drink at French style café bar Petit Cafè Du Coin on nearby Berry Street. Specialising in wine, cocktails and cheese, this atmospheric venue earned a big thumbs-up from our reviewer earlier this year. YM Liverpool 37
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