Rae 1 C. Rae Prax Rae English 1 5 May 2012
Blood Chocolate Bitter Truths
Rae 2
A
mericans love chocolate. Advertisers lead women to think it’s important for happiness and even sanity. Men are led to believe that chocolate is the
next best thing after diamonds as romantic gifts. Children from coast to coast love the sticky, melting flavors of chocolate from their cereals to morning hot cocoa, and from holiday celebrations to rewards for good behavior. Many of us are clueless about Spanish royalty keeping chocolate a secret for a century, or the Aztec’s deep conviction that chocolate is a god-send (well, we may have an inkling about that). Few know the dark secrets lurking behind the chocolate industry: the forced and illegal transportation of children from Mali and Burkina Faso to Ivory Coast to wield machetes that will harvest the precious pods. Few know about manufacturers’ profit-driven decisions that threaten farmers worldwide.
How do American consumers’ choices with chocolate impact the world? Thankfully, our love of chocolate leads to more
specific companies’ profit margins and maps of
than
curious
plantation production rates. Documentary films
valuable
helpfully reveal worldwide practices of both
Web-based
conventional and artisanal chocolatiers. Books
research helps answer this
have been written about the curious history of
aphrodisiacal investigators
mania;
have
many
unearthed
information.
question,
yielding
cacao. United States chocolate lovers can end
information
about
child slavery in the industry by boycotting certain
people’s
flavor
manufacturers and by purchasing FairTrade
preferences,
products.
Rae 3 People today love chocolate for its
one use” (ChocolateMonthClub.com). Chocolate
delicious flavor and luxury, but chocolate was not
was reserved for the elite, and they thought it so
always so sweet. Cocoa has long been considered
important that they were willing to ‘sacrifice’
an otherworldly delight. For example, “The Aztecs
other important items, like goblets, to enjoy it.
attributed the creation of the cocoa plant to their
Today most people enjoy sugar and milk in their
god Quetzalcoatl who, descended from heaven on
chocolate, however it began as a bitter or savory
a beam of a morning star carrying a cocoa tree
drink: “Since sugar was unknown to the Aztecs,
stolen
different spices were used to add flavor, even hot
from
paradise”
(ChocolateMonthClub.com). Chocolate was so
chili
peppers
magical, the Aztecs assumed it was divine, and a
(ChocolateMonthClub.com).
gift straight from the gods. As god-send, chocolate
explorers
held a special and sometimes sacred place in
wonderful cocoa bean to Europe, it began its
ancient Mesoamerican cultures. In fact, “The
journey to the sweet taste we know and love
drink was so prestigious that it was served in
today. Some think Cortez is responsible for the
golden goblets that were thrown away after only
change, saying, “Cortez postulated that if this
and
and
corn Once
conquistadors
meal” Spanish
brought
the
Figure 1 | "Where Cocoa Is Produced." NestleCocoaPlan.com. Societe Des Produits Nestle S.A. Web. 06 May 2012. <http://www.nestlecocoaplan.com/about-cocoa/where-cocoa-is-produced.aspx>.
Rae 4 bitter beverage were blended with sugar, it could become quite a delicacy. […] The results […] created a demand for the fruits of his Spanish plantations” (ChocolateMonthClub.com). After a hundred years, the Spanish shared their secret
Figure 2 | Standard cocoa process vs Acticoa cocoa process and flavanol loss
‘god-send,’ then demand, along with the industrial revolution, made chocolate a
banana leaves to ferment for days. During this
world-wide phenomenon.
time, the pods lose their bitter flavor, darken and
From tropical plantations to a foiled
wilt (ThinkQuest.org. Next, beans are sundried,
wrapper, cacao beans undergo a complex process
roasted and winnowed. Manufacturer’s factories
before
Cacao
remove the husk for animal feed; the inner nib
plantations can be found in tropical climates, and
can be crushed, heated again and ground to a
the trimmed trees are often found near rubber or
paste. Most often left untreated with alkali, the
banana or coconut trees to maximize shade for
paste then becomes cocoa powder. Through this
growing (ThinkQuest.org). Figure 1 shows that
process, the cacao loses much of its flavanols,
cacao is produced near the equator on several
“powerful antioxidants [that] protect body cells
continents. Ivory Coast and Ghana produce the
against the effect of free radicals, [which] free
bulk of the world’s cacao, while countries like
radicals accelerate the aging process and can
Brazil, Papua New Guinea and Colombia produce
negatively influence certain body functions”
much less. In about six months, the pods ripen.
(Chococru.com). As shown in Figure 2, the
Once they have developed a red color, workers
Acticoa process seeks to change this, keeping up
harvest them with machetes and place them in
to 80% of flavanols in their chocolate and cocoa
reaching
eager
consumers.
Rae 5 products. With Acticoa, chocolate lovers can enjoy healthy benefits as well as tasty chocolate. Whatever the process, final chocolate products are made from mixtures of the paste, powder, cocoa butter and roasted hazelnuts, sugar, vanilla or milk. Various combinations yield baking chocolate, white chocolate, dark chocolate and more. Although all chocolate manufacturers earn
lucrative
profits,
unlike
conventional
products, FairTrade chocolate relies on “farmers and workers who are justly compensated” (FairTradeUSA.org). For example, Ben & Jerry’s, whose flavors will all be FairTrade by 2013, made up to $500 million profit in 2008 (BenJerry.com). That same year, Hershey’s made $311 million in profits (Smith). Both kinds of chocolate make money. But Hershey’s owes its monstrous profits in part to the free labor of illegally trafficked child slaves forced to work on cacao plantations. As “The Dark Side of Chocolate” reveals, young children from Mali and Burkina Faso are smuggled across the border into Ivory Coast. They are paid little to nothing for their hard work, and the money saved means cheap cocoa
Rae 6 beans for manufacturers like Hershey’s. On the
said Katherine Tallmadge of the American
other hand, Ben & Jerry’s began using FairTrade
Dietetic
certified ingredients in 2005 and committed to
consumption has been linked to lower risks of
making a company-wide change, “converting up
strokes, improved blood circulation and reduced
to 121 different chunks and swirls, working
cancer risks (Rettner). Yet, chocolate cannot be
across eleven different ingredients such as cocoa,
called a panacea: “It's not anything major, but it's
banana, vanilla and other flavourings, fruits and
still an advantage, and even slight advantages can
nuts [and] working with Fair Trade cooperatives
make a difference for some people” (Rettner).
[…] of over 27,000 farmers” (BenJerry.com).
Dark chocolate is the richest in flavanols or
Distribution of profit makes the big difference.
flavanoids, the “antioxidants that are thought to
FairTrade products ensure that companies make
help protect cells against damage” and linked to
money and farmers earn a living wage. One
so many health benefits (Rettner). As a result,
mother in a cacao cooperative in Belize hopes,
chocophiles would be best off consuming small
“that all the children will go to school because of
amounts of dark chocolate minimally sweetened
the money we receive from growing cacao.
or processed. It’s easy to detect, since the
Currently we have 2 to 3 acres and are planting
antioxidants leave a bitter taste.
Association
(Rettner).
Chocolate
more” (GlobalExchange.org). Consumer pressure
Like changing chocolate consumption to
has successfully pushed Hershey’s in a more
focus on dark chocolate and maximum flavanoids,
ethical, direction, as well.
changing business practices can also deliver
Chocolate can be good for the body, soul
slight advantages. The results are much less
and some romantic relationships, but consumer
bitter to swallow, though. Hershey’s committed
discoveries of its connection to unethical practices
to just such a change after a barrage of negative
often negatively impact sales. “More and more
attention in the press. CNN created a field storm
research is showing that [eating chocolate] is
with its documentary, “Chocolate’s Child Slavery”
really more beneficial than we ever imagined,”
as part of the Freedom Project. In addition, the
Rae 7 International Labor Rights Forum crafted a
Illegal trafficking and child slavery in
commercial designed to reveal Hershey’s “alleged
West Africa does not benefit conventional
use of child labor” at the 2012 Super Bowl
chocolate companies, the plantations or the
(Ariosto). Quickly thereafter, Hershey’s issued a
children. As covered in “The Dark Side of
statement about the company’s commitment of
Chocolate,”
$10 million in the next five years to “educate
plantations in West Africa can look forward to
West African cocoa farmers on improving their
machete cuts and resulting open wounds,
trade and combating child labor” (Ariosto). In
dislocation from their families, and depleted skill
particular, the Bliss brand will use 100%
sets, as they do not attend school. From the
Rainforest Alliance certified farm products.
“Raise the Bar Hershey” campaign to individual
Ultimately, conventional practices that rely on
blogs and university repots, Hershey’s has faced a
underpaid laborers must end.
litany of boycotts of its chocolate products.
children
trafficked
onto
cacao
All the children will go to school because of the money we receive from growing cacao. Currently we have 2 to 3 acres and are planting more
Rae 8 Activists have thoughtfully selected Hershey company.
According
to
Kellogg
School
Consumers
can
nudge
conventional
of
companies to end child slavery by boycotting
Management professor, Brayden King, “The best
chocolate made from slave labor. The Hershey
targets are companies with good reputations that
company has recently suffered a crisis of
are on the decline. Of course, activists don’t
reputation, related to underpaid labor. According
always have a choice. But if they can choose
to Reputation Communications, “Six hundred
among various companies, choose those with a
articles and one New York Times editorial” were
public image crisis. […] Have a plan to involve the
written to address the underpaid labor of a group
media from the very beginning.” Hershey’s is an
of college students. The students, culled from
ideal company to boycott, because it meets King’s
engineering,
medical
and
foreign
degree
criteria. programs, were funded by the United
spokesperson was swamped that week. Whatever
States State Department to work abroad for the
the reason, the Hershey company is open to
summer and build international experience. They
attack of its corporate image. With hundreds of
ended up in menial positions with Hershey’s, paid
media outlets commenting on the corporation,
sweat-shift “wages of $7.25 to $8.35” (Wilkinson).
Hershey’s also meets King’s criterion for media
The students launched a public campaign “heard
involvement. Since the company is currently
around the world,” and Hershey’s made minimal
suffering a crisis of identity, a large-scale
reply.
grown
campaign targeting Hershey’s to “Raise the Bar”
accustomed to large-scale activist campaigns
on its work with cacao plantations that rely on
denouncing their unethical practices. Perhaps the
child and slave labor would be successful at just
company was unfeeling about the students’
this moment.
Perhaps
summer
the
experience.
company
Perhaps
has
the
press
Opponents may argue that the best
that West African governments can and do
approach to ending unethical labor is to ensure
enforce laws prohibiting trafficking and profiting
Rae 9 from children. Certainly, this is the Hershey
Protocol, “a cocoa industry-wide agreement
opportunity for children. It's our hope that CNN will also include the perspectives of African cocoa farmers and government leaders who working to address these important issues every day (Protocol).
signed in 2001, […] written to put an end to
Indeed, the Protocol names “governments, global
forced child labor in chocolate by 2005 [with the]
industry, cocoa producers, organized labor, non-
deadline […] extended […] more than 10 years,”
governmental organizations and consumers” as
Hershey representatives tried to share the
responsible stakeholders for the “Elimination of
limelight with West African governments and
the Worst Forms of Child Labor.” Certainly, where
plantation
impressive profits are at stake, multi-lateral
company approach. In a response to CNN’s request for comment on the Harkin-Engel
owners
(“Chocolate
Industry
Responds”). Reducing the worst forms of child labor is critical and requires the involvement of communities, farmer organizations, industry and governments. No single entity or initiative can solve this problem. The Hershey Company has helped develop and lead all significant public and private programs related to the cocoa sector in West Africa for more than a decade. These initiatives include farming modernization, health, education, technology access and community well-being. Our goal is to increase farmer income, strengthe[n] families and provide greater
solutions with a diversity of stakeholders will be most effective. Yet of the stakeholders named, typical consumers are most likely to effect change. If Hershey and similar companies are going about “business as usual,” the most influential voice to change the status quo is holding the purse: chocolate lovers. United States Senators crafted the
Harkin-Engel
protocol.
While
it
was
successfully signed by myriad actors, it has not been enacted with any vigor. Rather, bureaucratic inefficiency and the stronghold of money strangled any real change. In fact, the Protocol was the second draft of a bill passed by the House of Representatives in 2001, “but before the bill
Rae 10 got to the Senate, the chocolate industry successfully convinced lawmakers that instead, they would develop a voluntary agreement to work toward elimination of child labor in the cocoa industry” (“Broken Hearts”). The Senate accepted a different version after lobbying by chocolate manufacturers; governmental agencies and chocolate manufacturers are worried about profits,
and
Maybin is thoughtful to include UK consumer
reputations before unknown children in West
opinion in her article on reactions to the press
Africa. Consumers can hardly worry about such a
release. Availability of familiar brands and ethical
‘damage’ to their reputation by ending their
support of international farmers rank high in
purchases of chocolate that supports child
consumer concerns. In the United States, a
slavery. With clearer motivations, American
consumer boycott focused on the same tenets
consumers are better poised to influence change.
could turn our best-selling brands, like Reeses,
This held true in the United Kingdom, when Kit
Almond Joy, Kit Kat (both Hershey’s and Nestlé
Kat
2009
are licensed to sell the brand) and even Ice
announcement that UK’s Kit Kat bars would
Breakers, from just delicious snacks to symbols of
become FairTrade. To explain its decision, Nestlé
ethical eating.
noted
national
lovers
economy-building
Research shows that the majority of people in the UK back a better deal for farmers and workers around the world and believe companies should support community development when dealing with developing 1 countries . Consumers say one of the main barriers to purchasing Fairtrade products is availability and also that they would like their favourite brands to be Fairtrade. Kit Kat is the UK’s bestselling chocolate biscuit bar (Maybin).
celebrated
Nestlé’s
Rae 11 Works Cited Ariosto, David. "Hershey Pledges $10 Million to Improve West African Cocoa Farming, Fight Child Labor." The CNN Freedom Project: Ending Modern-Day Slavery. Cable News Network, Turner Broadcasting System, 31 Jan. 2012. Web. 06 May 2012. <http://thecnnfreedomproject.blogs.cnn.com/2012/01/31/hersheypledges-10-million-to-improve-west-african-cocoa-farming-fight-child-labor/>. "Chocolate Industry Responds." The CNN Freedom Project: Ending Modern-Day Slavery. Cable News Network, Turner Broadcasting System, 17 Jan. 2012. Web. 06 May 2012. <http://thecnnfreedomproject.blogs.cnn.com/2012/01/17/chocolate-industry-response/>. The Freedom Project is largely a public relations front by CNN to “join the fight against modern slavery.” The news network claims to dedicate its truth-seeking journalists to the cause, and certainly many voices contribute pieces and articles. In “Hershey Pledges,” Ariosto seeks to update CNN Freedom Project followers about a Hershey company press release claiming the company will pursue fairer trade with farmers and cooperatives in a partnership with the Rainforest Alliance. The article focuses on naming organizations dedicated to fighting slavery worldwide, including CNN. Ariosto uses input from many different sources, from Hershey's CEO to Rainforest Alliance executive director. Rainforest Alliance farmers or co-op members are not consulted for this piece. “Broken Hearts: A Review of Industry Efforts to Eliminate Child Labor in the Cocoa Industry." LaborRights.org. International Labor Rights Forum, 25 Jan. 2010. Web. 7 May 2012. <http://www.laborrights.org/sites/default/files/publications-and-resources/BrokenHearts2010.pdf>. International Labor Rights Forum (ILRF) released “Broken Hearts” to update a past report questioning the success of the Harkin-Engel Protocol. ILRF argues that chocolate companies have exerted force to interrupt initiatives meant to end child labor and child slavery; “As a result, the problem of child labor continues nine years after the industry committed to end these abuses.” The report chronicles the formation of various working groups, committees and organizations designed to implement the Harkin-Engel Protocol, accusations of conflict-of-interest, and chocolate manufacturers’ support of the most lenient bodies. Listed sources are conspicuously dependent on companies ILRF seems to support. Hershey Company is not a source, for example. "Chocolate History Timeline." ChocolateMonthClub.com. The Gourmet Chocolate of the Month Club. Web. 06 May 2012. <http://www.chocolatemonthclub.com/chocolatehistory.htm>. The Club is designed for chocolate lovers to join a community, get resources and develop background information. The history page underscores the club's overall message, that chocolate is a delicacy, enjoyed by millions and worth adoration. The history presented is thorough, yet it does not offer information on chocolate's current dark side: child slavery. "Fair Trade Cocoa Cooperatives." GlobalExchange.org. Global Exchange. Web. 06 May 2012. <http://www.globalexchange.org/fairtrade/cocoa/cooperatives>.
Rae 12 Global Exchange works internationally to secure human rights by changing rules – both written and unwritten – about profit, politics and human dignity. Their case study of the Toledo Cacao Growers Association (TCGA) is called “perfect example of how much Fair Trade makes a difference.” Global Exchange seeks to highlight positive effects of Fair Trade practices on participating farmers. The supporting company, Green & Blacks of the UK, is not heard in this source. King, Brayden. "Why Boycotts Succeed and Fail." Kellogg Insight. Northwestern University, Apr. 2009. Web. 06 May 2012. <http://insight.kellogg.northwestern.edu/index.php/Kellogg/article/why_boycotts_succeed_and_fail>. King explores the history of corporate boycotts, starting with successful actions in the United States Civil Rights Movement. King outlines the 'ingredients' of successful boycotts and offers final advice to activists and corporations. The source is mainly summative, and does not proffer enough specifics to investigate possible outcomes of ongoing boycotts. Maybin, Eileen. "Kit Kat Gives Cocoa Farmers in Cote D'Ivoire a Break." FairTrade.org.uk. The Fairtrade Foundation, 7 Dec. 2009. Web. 07 May 2012. <http://www.fairtrade.org.uk/press_office/press_releases_and_statements/december_2009/kit_kat_gives_ cocoa_farmers_in_cte_divoire_a_break.aspx>. FairTrade.org reviews the 2009 Nestlé press release announcing a switch to FairTrade cocoa for Kit Kat bars, the UK’s “best-selling chocolate biscuit bar.” Maybin speaks with Nestlé representatives, FairTrade activists and UK government officials for responses to the change. She also cites research identifying the preferences of a UK majority on chocolate and ethical practices. “Protocol for the Growing and Processing of Cocoa Beans and Their Derivative Products in a Manner That Complies with ILO Convention 182 Concerning the Prohibition and Immediate Action for the Elimination of the Worst Forms of Child Labor." CocoaInitiative.org. International Cocoa Initiative Foundation. Web. 6 May 2012. <http://www.cocoainitiative.org/images/stories/pdf/harkin%20engel%20protocol.pdf>. Adopted in Geneva, Switzerland in 1999, the Harkin-Engel Protocol was created to combat child labor in cocoa processing. Signed by high-profile politicians, chocolate manufacturers, international labor unions and non-profit organizations, the Protocol outlines a lofty objective and gathers appropriate signatories to the decision and articles for action. Notably missing is a direct link to the voices of the most vulnerable: poor cacao farmers, and the children most likely to be trafficked into the industry. Rettner, Rachel. "Sweet Science: The Health Benefits of Chocolate." LiveScience.com. 11 Feb. 2010. Web. 17 Mar. 2012. <http://www.livescience.com/6111-sweet-science-health-benefits-chocolate.html>. “Sweet Science” presents curious science readers with mostly benefits of eating chocolate. The article narrows recommendations to focus on which types of chocolate are most beneficial for health, and acknowledges that some research results linking chocolate consumption to reduced risk of stroke are uncorroborated. Rettner relies on one expert
Rae 13 voice from the American Dietetic Association and does not cite her sources, most notably the ‘various studies’ that support her claims about chocolate health benefits. Smith, Sharon. "Hershey's Profits Rise as Economy Slumps." The Patriot-News. PennLive, LLC, 27 Jan. 2009. Web. 06 May 2012. <http://www.pennlive.com/midstate/index.ssf/2009/01/hersheys_profits_rise_as_econo.html>. Smith's short article explains the idea that even with the economy dipping, many companies did well. Hershey's was a top performer with profits in the hundreds of millions of dollars. Hershey's success is attributed to a thoughtful marketing plan, with product pushes tied to the summer Olympics and the year's bestselling film, "The Dark Knight." The article ignores the company's use of underpaid and slave labor, which certainly also affects profit margins. "Social and Environmental Assessment Report 2008." Ben & Jerry's. 2009. Web. 06 May 2012. <http://www.benjerry.com/company/sear/2008/index.cfm>. The Social and Environmental Assessment Report (SEAR) released on Ben & Jerry's for the year 2008 offers an overview of company successes, developments and changes. While the company releases the report, it is externally audited, and the auditor, LeBlanc & Associates, LLC, believed that "the Selected Data [...] is fairly presented, in all material respects." The SEAR provides an excellent overview of the company's perspective and goals for social good. It is designed to convince consumers to support future company objectives, and does not explore any company mistakes - or the failure to meet past goals. "The Dark Side of Chocolate (2010)." FilmsForAction.org. Films For Action, 29 Apr. 2011. Web. 06 May 2012. <http://www.filmsforaction.org/Watch/The_Dark_Side_of_Chocolate_2010/>. "A team of journalists investigate how human trafficking and child labor in the Ivory Coast fuels the worldwide chocolate industry. The crew interview both proponents and opponents of these alleged practices, and use hidden camera techniques to delve into the gritty world of cocoa plantations." The film presents large corporations, such as Hershey's and Monsanto, as well as Ivory Coast political officials as distrustful, and uses second party mediators to represent the companies. "How Chocolate Is Made." ThinkQuest.org. Oracle Foundation. Web. 06 May 2012. <http://library.thinkquest.org/J0110012/made/made.htm>. ThinkQuest is an Oracle Foundation resource for students and by students. Each page of the website is the product of a winning student submission. “How Chocolate is Made” gives detailed information about the process of making chocolate. It is written as if the reader is interested in possibly making chocolate products of her own. The article does not comment on negative or positive social, environmental or economic effects of the process. "What Is Fair Trade? Quality Products. Improving Lives. Protecting the Planet." What Is Fair Trade? Fair Trade USA, 2010. Web. 06 May 2012. <http://fairtradeusa.org/what-is-fair-trade>. FairTrade USA shares the FairTrade philosophy and purpose. The company is responsible for most FairTrade certification in the United States, and has a vested interest in presenting
Rae 14 their business model as one of the most socially-responsible. The site offers great resources for finding FairTrade certified products, as well as joining a community of people who care about this kind of product. It offers businesses information on how to become certified. International farmers' voices are missing; the site does not explain what a farmer in a FairTrade contract receives. Wilkinson, Shannon M. "Hershey's Reputation Crisis." Reputation-Communications.com. Reputation Communications, 20 Aug. 2011. Web. 06 May 2012. <http://www.reputationcommunications.com/blog/2011/08/20/hershey%E2%80%99s-reputation-crisis/>. Wilkinson’s blog, “Reputation Issues,” is an extension of her company focused on maintenance of corporate, political and high-profile reputations. She writes about Hershey company to establish a profile of their dwindling reputation due to a recent media firestorm. She simultaneously demonstrates her ability to strategize with useful resources in brand management. Likely due to her interest in the possibility of being hired by Hershey, she focuses on what it will take to revive the company’s profile, and does not present a judgment on the accusations.