Gourmet Today Magazine December 2022

It’s no surprise that this time of year is one where we all may indulge a bit – or a lot – more than usual. So we welcome the month of Christmas festivities with arms wide open as we gear up for a holiday season filled with food, food and more food.

Few smells in the kitchen can evoke the feeling of Christmas like spices. Cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom and ginger are all synonymous to Christmas. Recipes can be transformed using the right spices, so now is the perfect time to stock up on these kitchen essentials. We take a closer look at how you can get the most out of spices during the festive season as Yesenia Consoli whips up four of her moutwatering sweet and savoury treats.

In fact, issue offer a wide range of recipes for everyone to cook up a storm this festive season.

With the big day right round the corner, Gourmet Today is set on taking some stress off your plate. With an irresistible festive spread by Yakof Debono, we’ve got your Christmas lunch sorted.

As 2022 draws to a close, the team at Gourmet Today would like to wish you a sweet and spicy holiday season. Whether you’re cooking, catering or exploring different eateries, it’s the season to eat, have fun and stop feeling bad about it.

Until next year!

Philippa

Wish List

Artisinal Gift Pack

All agri-products from Malta Sunripe are genuinely Maltese – made only from fresh, handpicked and locally grown produce originating from the village of Mġarr. All their products are handmade and 100% free from preservatives or additives, and free from GMOs.

Shanky’s Whip

This smooth and sweet black whisky liqueur is made in Co. Cavan, Ireland, blending quality Irish whiskey with cream and vanilla for a flavour as rich as it is easy.

Perfect for whiskey lovers or someone with a slight sweet tooth. So whether you’re looking for gifts for men, women, birthdays, or teachers, this beautiful bottle will line up nicely in anyone’s home and goes great with chocolate. Yum.

Gold Pastizzi

A humorous take on Malta’s favourite snack immortalised into a perfect little gift. Kane Cali’s pastizzi are made from carefully-selected (edible) pastizzi purchased from local pastizzerias. During the festive season, the classic snackk comes in gold.

A Sweet Christmas E-Book

A Sweet Christmas – This E-book is an instant downloadable file containing a collection of 15 indulgent desserts to share and enjoy during this festive season...by none other than our contributor Yesenia Consoli from Apron & Whisk. Get yours from apronandwhisk.

Village Street Mug

After one of her walks around her hometown of Rabat, Stephanie Borg, the artist, was inspired to draw this illustration inspired by the rows of typical Maltese doors and balconies that still adorn some of the streets. This ceramic mug is packaged in a wraparound board and tied together with a ribbon. ‘Village Street’ forms part of the artist’s collection.

Gluten-free panettone

A subtle hybrid of bread and cake, but light, airy and moist...this soft and gluten-free Christmas panettone is perfect for people with food allergies or great idea for an elegant, tasty gift. But no one will know it’s glutenfree!

Corn Snack

The ideal healthy snack! The perfect combination of sun-dried tomatoes and a wide range of carefully selected herbs. A light and pleasant taste in the form of crunchy corn kernels. A great subsitute

Quirky Ceramics

Functional, fun and quirky is a way to describe the designs Sofia and Matt come up with. If the form isn’t enough to get you hooked, the gorgeous colours will make you wonder if you should buy one in everyshape.

Isis Chardonnay

Isis has a brilliant, straw-yellow colour with a pale green rim; a fresh, complex bouquet of grapefruit and other exotic white fruits with gentle floral notes; and a well-structured, citrus taste with a long, pleasantly acidic, aftertaste. This wine may be served with grilled fish and seafood and white meats, such as chicken & rabbit.

For info about Meridiana Wine Estate’s full range of wines www.meridiana. com.mt or find them on Facebook.

Trade Enquiries: S Rausi Trading, Stadium Street, Gzirawww.srausi.com

Between 8th and 18th of December, 2022 we are transforming Salini Park into a magical, sustainable Christmas Village, where families can share the festive spirit, with lots of fun and scrumptious food, while discovering tips on how to make your Christmas celebrations sustainable and environment friendly.

Immerse yourself in the illuminated trail experience. Get in line to meet up with Santa Claus and enjoy the live entertainment and many other activities!

FOR MORE INFO christmasinthepark.mt

let’s talk

P hotos and recipes

By Yesenia Consoli apronandwhisk.com

In this edition of Gourmet, we visit Corinthia Hotel St George’s Bay to sample their famous afternoon tea — one of the great English traditions and a culinary treat enjoyed

Ginger chocolate scones

Makes 8

INGREDIENTS

250g plain flour

70g caster sugar

2 ½ tsp baking powder

125g cold and cubed butter

½ tsp salt

1 egg

120ml buttermilk + extra for brushing

1 tbsp ground ginger

80g dark chocolate chips

60g diced candied ginger

Optional: coarse sugar for topping

METHOD

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C or 390°F. Line a baking tray with parchment paper. Set aside.

2. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, salt, baking powder and ground ginger. Add the cubed cold butter, working with your fingertips combine to a crumbly mixture.

3. In a small bowl, combine the buttermilk and egg. Add this mixture to the flour mixture gently. Mix until there is no liquid. Add in the chocolate chips and the candied ginger. Knead until everything is evenly distributed.

4. On a lightly floured surface, drop the dough and shape with your hands into a disc of about 20 cm. With a sharp knife, cut into 8 triangles. Place the scones on the prepared baking tray.

5. Brush the scones with some buttermilk and sprinkle with coarse sugar.

6. Bake the scones for about 20-25 minutes until they are nicely golden brown.

7. Let cool slightly before serving. Top with your favourite cream and jam!

Ginger is a flowering plant that is closely related to turmeric and cardamom. The ginger root is well-known for its medicinal properties and therefore used as a natural remedy. The plant was originally used in Chinese traditional medicine to ‘hamronise the stomach’. From fighting infections to decreasing cholesterol, it’s clear that adding ginger root to your diet could have a powerful effect on health.

How to use leftover ginger:

- Make syrup. Ginger root makes a wonderful syrup, with a punchy flavour that works really well in cocktails, soft drinks and even smoothies.

- Freeze it. Whole ginger root freezes well, and is actually easier to peel and grate when frozen beforehand.

- Infuse it.

- Pickled ginger.

Cinnamon lamb sausage rolls

Makes 24

INGREDIENTS

For the puff pastry

350g plain flour

230g cubed cold butter

1 teaspoon salt

75 ml cold water

For the lamb filling

1 tbsp olive oil

1 red onion finely chopped

2 minced garlic cloves

500g lamb mince

1 egg

1 tsp salt

A small handful of chopped mint leaves

2 tsp cinnamon

1 tsp dried chilli flakes

50g breadcrumbs

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon Sesame and nigella seeds

For the egg wash

1 egg

1 tbsp water

METHOD

Puff pastry

Cinnamon comes from the inner bark of a small evergreen tree; the bark is peeled and laid in the sun to dry, where it curls into rolls known as cinnamon sticks. Cinnamon has a pleasant flavour and warm smell, making it popular in cooking, especially in sweet bakes and curries.

In the kitchen:

-Cinnamon sticks typically give a milder flavour and are added to liquid recipes with slow cooking times, to allow the spice to infuse. The stick is removed and discarded after cooking.

-Ground cinnamon is stirred into dry mixtures, recipes that cook more quickly, or those that require a stronger flavour.

Assembly

1. In a large bowl mix together the flour and salt.

2. Add the cubed cold butter and work it into the flour. You can either use a pastry cutter or work with your hands. If you’re using your hands, you have to work fast so as not to melt the butter. Rub in all the butter in the flour until you have a coarse mixture with small pebbles of butter. This process can also be done in a food processor.

3. Slowly start adding a tablespoon at a time of cold water, while forming a smooth dough. Your dough might require less or more water.

Lamb filling

1. In a skillet fry the onion together with the garlic for a few minutes until fragrant. Let cool completely.

2. In a bowl, combine all the ingredients. Set aside in the fridge until ready to use.

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C or 390°F. Line a baking tray with parchment paper. Set aside.

2. Divide the dough into two pieces; work with one piece at a time. On a floured surface, open the dough to a large rectangle about 5mm thickness. Cut lengthwise down the middle.

3. Divide the filling into 4. Place the filling down the middle of the cut rectangle shaped dough. Brush the edges with the egg wash. Fold and roll the dough to form a long sausage roll, pinch and close the seam tightly. Place the large roll with the seam facing down, and cut the sausage rolls about 5/6 cm each.

4. Place the sausage rolls on the lined baking tray, brush with the egg wash and on top sprinkle a mix of sesame and nigella seeds.

5. Bake for about 20 minutes, until they have a nice golden brown colour and the filling is cooked. If making larger sausage rolls, they will take longer to cook. Cool slightly before serving.

Pumpkin, ricotta and nutmeg ravioli

INGREDIENTS

For the egg pasta dough

400g 00 flour

4 eggs

For the filling 400g pumpkin 300g ricotta

1 tsp grated nutmeg

½ tsp salt

1 tbsp olive oil 100g grated parmesan cheese

METHOD

Egg Pasta Dough

For the sage butter sauce 1/4 cup sage 100g butter

1. Place the flour on your working surface, make a well in the middle and add the eggs. With a fork start mixing the eggs with the flour from the inside to the outside gently.

2. Once the dough starts to take shape, with clean hands, knead the dough until the dough is smooth. This process shall take about 20 minutes.

3. Cover the dough with cling film and let it rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes.

Ravioli filling

Nutmeg is a spice made from the seed of the nutmeg tree (Myristica fragrant), a native Indonesian evergreen tree that is the source of two popular spices: nutmeg and mace.

In the kitchen: Nutmeg is essential to bechamel sauce and also goes well with baked or stewed fruit, custards, eggnog, punches, curries, sauces (particularly onion-based and milk sauces), pasta, and vegetables (especially spinach).

One whole nutmeg grated yields 2 to 3 teaspoons of ground nutmeg.

1. Pre-heat the oven to 200°C or 390°F. On a baking sheet, drizzle the pumpkin with olive oil. Roast for about 30 minutes until the pumpkin is fork tender.

2. Blend the roasted pumpkin together with ricotta, parmesan cheese, nutmeg and salt. It should be a dense mixture and not too liquid.

3. Store in the fridge until ready to use.

Assembling the ravioli

1. Dust some semolina/flour on a sheet pan or two, and leave it on the side. Divide the dough into four equal parts. Work with one part at a time and leave the rest covered with the cling film. If you have a pasta machine this will make your job easier, however, no worries a simple rolling pin will be enough.

2. Roll the dough into about 0.2 cm thin. Dollop a teaspoon of the pumpkin and ricotta filling on the pasta dough, leaving a 2 finger space between each one. Brush the edges with water and lay on top another rolled sheet of pasta dough. Close tightly around the filling and carefully, pressing out any extra air, create a seal around the filling. Cut the ravioli into squares.

3. Place the ravioli on the semolina/flour covered sheet pan and leave some space between one another, so that they don’t stick together. Keep repeating these steps until all of your dough and filling are finished.

4. Cook the ravioli in boiling seasoned water, and cook until the ravioli float to the top, after approximately 5 minutes.

Sage brown butter sauce

1. In a medium saucepan on low-medium heat, melt the butter and let is cook for about 5 minutes while continuously stirring.

2. Add the sage leaves and let it cook until the butter starts to brown slightly and you have a rich nutty aroma.

3. Add the ravioli to the sauce, mix well, and let it cook for about 1 minute.

4. Serve the ravioli immediately. Enjoy!

Orange Cardamom Twist Doughnuts

Makes

16

METHOD The orange cardamon sugar

1. In a large bowl, mix the sugar, ground cardamom and orange zest. Set aside until needed. (store in fridge).

The twist doughnuts

1. In a mixer bowl, activate the yeast by adding the yeast, milk and sugar. Let rest for 5 minutes until foamy.

2. To the yeast mixture, add the eggs, flour and salt. With a hook attachment, knead the dough for about 3 minutes, until a soft dough starts taking shape

3. Gently add the cubed butter one piece at a time until all the butter is incorporated. Let the dough knead for about 10 minutes. Dough should result in an elastic consistency.

4. Place the dough in a bowl, cover and put it in a warm place until it doubles in size, for about 1 hour.

5. Line a large baking tray with parchment paper. Set aside.

6. Once the dough is doubled in size, transfer it to a lightly floured surface. Cut the dough into 16 equal pieces.

7. Take one piece of dough and roll it out into a long strip, about 20cm long. Then, simultaneously with your hands at each end of the strip, roll the dough in opposite directions. Lift the twisted strip up from the working surface, in a U-shape, and let it turn on itself. Pinch the ends together and tuck under each other.

8. Place the dough onto the prepared baking tray and repeat with the remaining dough. Leave some space between each doughnut. Once ready, cover the baking tray and let them rest for 30 minutes.

9. Fill a large pot with vegetable oil. Pour enough oil so that the doughnuts have enough space to cook. Heat the oil to about 170°C/340°F.

10. Gently add the doughnuts to the hot oil and let them cook for about 2-4 minutes on each side, until both sides have a nice golden colour. Transfer the cooked doughnuts to a plate lined with paper towels so that it will dry out any excess oil. Fry in batches if necessary.

Cardamom is a spice made from the seed pods of various plants in the ginger family. Cardamom pods are spindle-shaped and have a triangular cross-section.

In the kitchen: You can use powdered cardamom added directly to recipes that call for ground cardamom, but you will get more flavor by starting with the pods. Toast green cardamom pods in a dry skillet for a few minutes. Let them cool for a minute and then remove the seeds from the pods. Save the pods to use for adding to coffee or tea for flavour.

On the farm: Local Potatoes

Words by Emily Francis

I want to talk about my love for Maltese potatoes, specifically. They are, hand on heart, the best I have ever tasted! Once we were turned onto the local potatoes, we have never looked back. My family and I make sure to find the bag with the St John’s Cross on it, which lets us know that those grown right down the road, are the most beautiful and pure potatoes we can get.

The potatoes are still covered in dirt and need to be washed by using water and/or water with a drop of dish soap. That was something I learned from a class

I took at a cooking academy here on the island. I believe this might be due to restaurant policy as there are different sets of cleaning standards between home cooking and restaurant preparations. Due to the fact that the root vegetables come right out of the dirt, it can be necessary to wash not just with water, but with actual dish soap. In the States, we just rinse off with water or used a vinegar-based fruit and vegetable spray. I had never been advised to use dish soap on our foods to clean them.

The dish soap and laundry soaps are totally different brands here in

Malta, as the EU has different bans on some of the chemicals that US companies tend to use. The soaps here are less harsh and not as pungent with regards to the scents or even the colouring they use. Basically, everything here seems to be truer to its natural form. The difference is incredible. Dr Oz, a prominent heart surgeon hailing from Turkey but living in New York City, has a talk show where he discusses various health aspects. He did an episode once, several years ago, about how in America, the regular potato goes through a process of bleaching several times before it winds up in the bag at your local grocery. The amount of toxins coming from those vegetables is hideous. From

that day on, I bought organic potatoes and resisted buying them if they didn’t have them in stock.

Now jump over to Malta, where the potatoes are grown locally. Malta has a total ban on GMO foods that are grown locally in Malta. This means that anything planted and harvested here on the local soil has not been sprayed with the chemicals that are known to cause cancer such as glyphosate.

I had the great privilege of visiting a local potato farmer at his farm, in the limits of Safi, , called Karwija Farm. His name is Paul Zammit and he is a farmer with the Jansen-Dongen company. They provide potatoes to Malta’s national airline, Air Malta, as well as to the Netherlands. {4} He has been one of their farmers for over ten years. Paul comes from a family of farmers and has been harvesting his own potatoes since the age of 13. It is a true family business. I wanted to see the potatoes in its original form still under the ground.

I had heard that you basically uncover them like an Easter Egg hunt. I wanted to witness the process from start to cart.

Paul is one of the kindest and most lovely people I have ever met. He exemplifies everything I love about the Maltese. He welcomed us with open arms and took great pride in showing us the potatoes they grow, as well as the records of being a Certified “Global Gap” farm. This means that, amongst others, the demands for security of the food and the environmental demands are being taken into account at the desired level. {5} Paul also showed us the paperwork on having both the soil tested as well as the water for quality and health.

In order to plant the potatoes, they ‘seed the potatoes’ by cutting them into quarters to sprout and then, they are planted into the soil. Paul took me to the garden to see the rows of potatoes and I have to say, I have never seen a potato field before! Though it was in rows and lines of slight mounds of soil with dried leaves and roots atop, never would I have realised from this sight that potatoes are what was growing beneath the surface! Forever now, I will be able to

recognise a potato field after he taught me what to look for.

First, Paul showed us that what looked like dried soil. In reality, what he was showing us were the roots from the ground, which showed that the potatoes are now ripe and ready to be dug out. This is known as the tuber. “A tuber is the thickened part of a stem that grows underground. It has buds capable of producing a new plant by vegetative propagation. A tuber stores a large amount of edible starch which is used as food. Hence, the edible part of the potato is the stem.” {6}

The branches and roots were no longer attached to the potatoes anymore and had dried up in the sun. They sat atop of the soil alerting us to the potatoes that were still buried beneath. Under the bunches of dried roots, hide little jewels of beautiful and perfect potatoes.

Paul put on his potato gloves and began to dig with his hands, pulling out jewel after jewel of the potatoes. They were so clean, even coming right from the soil. It was unbelievable! This is exactly how they package them into the bags to be washed at home. He said his potatoes didn’t need to be washed with dish soap and simply could be rinsed off with water if we planned to eat the skin, or peel away the skin and the potatoes did not require any washing, though usually they rinse them in water once they have been peeled. Somehow, I managed to find the farm with the cleanest, purest and most delicious potatoes. The love inside these potatoes is evident. Paul Zammit is a lifelong farmer, learning the trade from his father and his grandfather. He is passing these skills down to his own family and the farm remains tightly run by family only.

To celebrate the harvest, each member of the family gets to dig out their own potatoes to prepare for that night’s feast. They set up tables and a large oven outside, where they cook the potatoes with meat. Adding some local Maltese wine to the mix, they have a big celebration of thanks and good blessings and celebrate the good fortune of the year’s crop.

festive menu

P hotos and recipes

By Yakof Debono

pumpkin soup

INGREDIENTS

0.8-1 kg pumpkin or butternut squash

500ml water

2 chicken/vegetable stockpots/ cubes;

150g orzo pasta

500ml full-fat milk

3 tbsp Greek yoghurt

1tsp Ras el Hanout

Salt and pepper

Ground cinnamon Grated Parmesan 6 crunchy amaretti biscuits

METHOD

1. Peel and deseed the pumpkin or butternut squash. Cut into medium-sized cubes and put in a large pan with the water and stockpots or cubes. Bring to the boil the simmer, covered, over low heat for 20 minutes or until the pumpkin is soft.

2. At the same time, boil some water in a smaller pan and cook the orzo for 10 minutes until al dente, and drain quickly.

3. When the pumpkin is cooked, drain and blend to a puree using a hand blender. Then add the milk, Greek yoghurt, and Ras el Hanout and bring to a simmer, taking care not to over boil. Season with salt and pepper.

4. Just before serving, bring the pumpkin soup to a simmer and add the boiled orzo. Serve with a pinch of cinnamon, grated cheese and crumbled amaretti biscuits.

INGREDIENTS

750ml red wine

Spice mix (6 cloves; 1 cinnamon stick; 6 coriander seeds; pinch of nutmeg; ½ tsp allspice)

4 clementine (or oranges), cut into wheels

2 tbsp dark muscovado sugar

2 tsp Sunripe harissa paste

3 tbsp miso paste (or 6 tbsp dark soy sauce)

1 tbsp mustard

1 tbsp honey

12 chicken thighs/legs, bone-in, with skin

2 tbsp olive oil

2 onions, roughly chopped 6 garlic cloves, minced

2 tbsp flour

150g dried cranberries

300ml chicken stock

METHOD

1. Put the wine, spice mix, half of the clementine wheels, and sugar in a saucepan. Bring this to the boil and let it bubble for 12 minutes, until it reduces. Remove from the heat and strain the liquid through a sieve to remove the residual spices. To the strained wine, add the harissa, miso, mustard, and honey. Set aside. Preheat the oven to 200ºC or Gas Mark 6.

2. Warm the oil in an ovenproof casserole pan over high heat. Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper and fry until the skin is golden. Add the onions, garlic, and fry for another 5 minutes.

3. Stir in the flour and cook for another 1 minute. Add the reduced mulled wine mixture, the chicken stock, and the remaining clementine wheels. Bring to a boil, then cover with a lid and cook for 1 hour in the preheated oven or until the sauce turns into a gravy. (Alternatively, you can do this in a large dish covered with 2 layers of foil).

4. Uncover the casserole pan, stir in the cranberries, and put back into the oven for further 30 minutes, uncovered.

5. Remove the clementine, taste for seasoning, and serve immediately with mashed potatoes or polenta. Or just bread, frankly. Or double carb it. infused oil and vinegar from the pan.

One-pot mulled wine braised chicken

Stuffed turkey breast

Turkey Breast stuffed with Maltese Sausage, Figs and Cranberries

INGREDIENTS

For the stuffing

80g dried cranberries

80g dried figs

120ml Marsala

1 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

¼ tsp ground cloves

½ tsp cinnamon

½ tsp ground allspice

2 tsp fresh chopped sage

1 kg Maltese sausage meat

2 eggs

80g Parmesan cheese, grated 60g breadcrumbs.

METHOD

For the breast

5kg double breast turkey jointbutterflied, boned and skin on 4 bunches red grapes

8 bacon rashers

4 tbsp butter

Crushed black pepper

Fresh sage leaves

Cooking string

1. In a small saucepan, put the cranberries, figs, and marsala. Bring to the boil, then take off the heat and set aside.

2. Warm the oil in a large frying pan or casserole and fry the onion for 1 minute. Add the spices and sage, turning them in the onions.

3. Remove the sausage meat from its casing, add to the pan and break it up with a wooden spoon. Mix and cook the sausage meat for about 5 minutes. Turn off the heat.

4. Turn the contents of the pan into a large bowl and mix in the steeped dried fruits together with the residual Marsala. Leave this to cool completely (this can be done 2 days before).

5. Preheat the oven to 200ºC or Gas Mark 6. Lay the grape bunches in a large roasting tin.

6. To the cooled sausage mixture, add the eggs, cheese and breadcrumbs, and pepper. Mix well with your hands.

7. Lay the butterflied joint out in front of you. Spread the stuffing all over the turkey breast’s surface and onto the wings. Make sure not to go right up to the edge as it can seep out during cooking.

8. Fold and roll one “flap” over the other to close the joint, and then sit the joint on the grapes in the large tin. Seal the joint with string at the edges and the centre. Smear the skin with the butter.

9. Roast the joint for 2-2 ½ hours (if using a chicken thermometer, it should be 75ºC in the centre). Halfway through the cooking, remove the joint from the oven and lay over the bacon rashers. Return to the oven.

10. Lift the joint out onto a chopping board and leave to rest for 30 minutes. Slice the joint into wheels and adorn your platter with the soggy grapes and some sage leaves.

Christmas Cake with Chocolate, Dates and Figs

INGREDIENTS

For the cake

350g dates, pitted & chopped

250g golden raisins

100g dried cranberries

100g dried figs

175g soft butter

175g dark muscovado sugar

225g/175ml honey

125ml hazelnut or coffee liqueur Juice and zest of 2 oranges

1 tsp mixed spice

2 tbsp cocoa powder

150g walnuts, chopped

METHOD

100g pistachios, chopped 3 eggs, beaten 150g plain strong OO flour

75g ground almonds ½ tsp baking powder ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda.

For decoration

Prune or raspberry or apricot or strawberry jam

Dried figs Mixed nuts

1. Preheat the oven to 150ºC or Gas Mark 2.

2. Prepare a 20cm x 9cm deep, round, loosebottomed cake tin. Cut out 2 circles of baking paper, and 2 very long rectangles that will fit along the sides of the tin and rise above it like a top hat. Snip the longest edges of the rectangles at approx. 2cm intervals, as if making a frill.

3. Grease the tin, lay one paper circle on the bottom and get one of your long pieces and fit it down one side, with the frilly edge along the bottom, then press down that edge so it sits flat on the circle and holds its place. Press the paper well into the sides and repeat with the second rectangular piece. Place the second circle on top of the 2 pressed-down frilly edges, to hold the pieces around the edge in place.

4. Put the dried fruits, butter, sugar, honey, liqueur, orange juice, zest, spice and cocoa into a large pan. Bring to the boil, stirring frequently. Simmer for 10 minutes, take off the heat, add the nuts, and leave to cool for 30 minutes.

5. Add the beaten eggs, flour, ground almonds, baking powder and bicarbonate of soda. Stir everything well with a wooden spoon.

6. Pour the batter into the cake tin and bake for 1 ¾ - 2 hours, by which time the top of the cake should be firm and shiny.

7. Put the cake tin on a cooling rack and leave it to cool completely. Once cool, take it out of the tin and brush the surface with the jam. Decorate with the chopped nuts and dried fruit. Store in a cool dry place.

Pomegranate and Lemon Tart

To assemble

INGREDIENTS

For the pomegranate and lemon curd

2 lemons, zest and juice 100g caster sugar 50g butter 2 eggs, beaten 3-4 tbsp pomegranate molasses

METHOD

1 circular sheet of puff pastry Seeds from 1 large pomegranate (or 2 smaller ones) 2 tbsp icing sugar Rinds of 1 lemon

For the blind baking 1 packet of rice

1. Preheat the oven to 220°C or Gas Mark 7. Transfer the puff pastry sheet with its parchment layer onto a baking tray. Fold the edge of the pastry to create a casing. Line the inner part of the pastry with baking paper and fill with the uncooked rice for the blind baking process. Bake the crust for 15 minutes, then remove the baking paper and rice, and bake for another 5 minutes. Take out and allow to cool completely.

2. To make the curd, put the lemon zest, juice, sugar and butter in a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water. Stir occasionally until the butter has melted. Then, using a small whisk or fork, stir in the beaten egg. Keep gently whisking the mixture over the heat for around 10 minutes until thickened like custard. Stir in the pomegranate molasses and allow to cool.

3. To assemble the tart, fill the cooked pastry shell with the pomegranate and lemon curd. Scatter over the pomegranate seeds to cover the entire curd-filled tart. Dust the top with the icing sugar and scatter the lemon rinds. Serve with vanilla ice-cream.

Gourmet Today sits with:

D arryl Grima

Darryl Grima has been a vegetarian for 36 years and now a vegan activist. He is the host of popular TVM programme Għand il-Vegan, founder of Veggy Malta, organiser of Malta Meet Free Week and lifelong environmental activist currently President of BirdLife Malta.

What was your motivation to become vegan? Was it for health reasons, animal rights, or climate change?

I became vegetarian when I was 18; 36 years ago. Whilst by the age of 18 I was already active in environmental organisations, the main push came mainly from animal rights issues. From a young age, even though I went from the start at a Catholic school, I could never understand why we were told that animals didn’t have a soul and therefore wouldn’t go to heaven. That’s something I couldn’t understand or accept. Why was my pet dog different to me?

Additionally, a friend of mine had taken the plunge to vegetarianism, so the moral discussion was already taking place in a group of friends. Along with these factors already pushing me, there was a final push that came from an unlikely source. Hunters. During public discussions with hunters used the excuse that if I eat chicken then that entitled them to kill birds (for food). So, I stopped eating meat!

product means that no products from animal origin have been used in it. But there are so many different labels for ethical and sustainable products like fair trade, rainforest alliance, cruelty free and so on. The mistake is not realising that all these are all interconnected. Should I wear a clothing item that is free from animal products, yet it was produced using child labour or from textiles grown in unsustainable plantations in the Amazon?

healthiest and longest living communities and are called blue zone diets.

“

Obviously, one might state that this sets the bar even higher. That’s true. Which is also why I agree with a recent concept called the reducetarian concept. This too breaks down the imaginary walls between vegans, vegetarians, omnivores etcetera. The relatively new concept puts

Personally, the benefits are not health focused. It’s the fact that my choices do not harm other animals and that they are having a lower impact on the environment that matters. Veganism and the choices I make are a form of activism. And whilst some will argue that one individual will not make a difference, every vegan makes an impact. Calculate how many animal lives I have saved over the 36 years that I have been meat free. Vegan calculators work on the assumption that one animal (even if small) is killed every day. That would mean that to date I have save over 13,000 animals. Now add with that the environmental benefits in lower carbon footprint. Veganism is a direct form of animal and environmental and social activism.

What are your top three lessons from this journey?

How long have you been vegan? At the time, was this a fairly revolutionary thing to do?

Going vegan happened gradually and naturally. I went vegetarian at 18 and soon after I tried going vegan, yet, I didn’t manage back then. Being vegan wasn’t as easy as it is today. Just to give one example, plant-based milk didn’t taste as good as it does today, and neither was there the diversity there is today. Over the years new products started coming in the market and that greatly helped me in reducing my consumption of animal products like milk and cheese.

What is your philosophy on veganism?

Over the years I believe I have taken a more holistic view of veganism, which some also call ethical veganism. Many believe that veganism is just about the food you eat, or rather, don’t eat. It is far more than that. You correctly said the word philosophy. I believe veganism rests on three main pillars, being animal justice, environmental justice, social justice along with human health.

Unfortunately, we tend to departmentalise and label things. So, a vegan label on a

us all under one umbrella; reducetarians. Everybody can be a reducetarian, if they try to reduce the consumption of animal products. This puts an omnivore, a flexitarian and a vegan all together on the same journey. Yet I extend this same concept to not just animal products, but to other labels that encompass environmental justice and social justice. Let’s reduce the impact on the environment, on human slavery, on inequality, on animals etcetera as much as possible with our purchases and choices.

What are, for you, the main benefits of adopting a plant-based diet? What about the not so positive aspects? Some might argue about the health benefits of veganism and there are many who promote them. In line with blue zone diets that advocate a 95 to 100% plant-based diet. These are the diets of the

I advise whoever is interested in taking this journey to take it step by step. Don’t try to go vegan cold “beetroot”. Take it in gradual steps. You correctly described it as a journey. There is no state of vegan perfection. If you falter it’s okay. Tomorrow you’ll do better. I believe that the key to success is by understanding veganism. Read and watch documentaries. You need to develop an understanding. That knowledge needs to be the base.

Whilst I welcome all those who take a vegan lifestyle, I would state that those who switch to a vegan lifestyle just because of health reasons are not fully understanding what it really is about. It’s like being lactose intolerant and rather than drinking plant-based milks, you drink lactose free cow milk or take a lactase pill. Going vegan for health is a good starting point, yet let it be the start of your journey to better understand what veganism is all about. Here are the three pointers; take it at your own pace, it’s ok to mistake, just put it behind you and move on, and get more informed.

There are quite a few misconceptions regarding plant-based nutrition, like The idea that we cannot get enough nutrients from fruits and vegetables alone. What

With veganism we can sustainably feed all 8 billion people, eradicate hunger and at the same time, return large areas of land back to nature.”

can someone do to ensure that they are getting what their body needs by eating plant-based foods?

This always make me laugh especially in a country that has a gold medal in obesity. As I mentioned earlier there are areas in the world that have the highest levels of longevity. People in blue zones eat large number of seasonal vegetables and they dry the surplus for off-season.

Let’s turn the tables. Who should be more concerned about the food they eat, is it a vegan or someone eating fried chicken, burgers, sausages and red meat? The UN has linked processed meats and red meat to cancer in humans. On the other hand, we usually read about how various vegetables reduce the risks of cancer. Obviously, it’s important to ensure that one has a balanced diet. One of the interesting side benefits from going vegan is that many people become more aware of the food they eat and what they are eating and should eat. Having said this, I think it’s always good to go to a nutritionist for guidance especially at the start.

As someone who’s been vegan for so long, what kind of change have you seen in the movement? Do you feel youngsters and consumers today are more conscious of their eating habits and how it affects the planet?

The movement has grown a lot, especially over the past few years. I recently unearthed some of the old magazines I used to receive from the Vegetarian Society of Malta. They led the movement back then and I have total respect for the hard work they did. Today things are different and evolving quite rapidly. I can see the difference even in the 5 years I have been organising Malta Meat Free Week. Individual perception and acceptance of going meat free and vegan has changed even in these five years. Awareness on animal and environmental issues and the impact of meat and dairy has greatly increased and this is translating into change. Is it enough? It never is, but yes consumers are more aware and that is the first step. The next step is to link this increased sense of awareness into change. It’s happening and it isn’t just youths. For Malta Meat Free Week we see that the highest pick-up

for the challenge is between the 30-40 bracket.

What about restaurants – where do you feel most welcome?

I think more and more restaurants are realising that they need to have vegan options on the menu. There still needs to be a degree of evolution here. I believe that a minimum of 25% of the menu should be vegan. This is because a vegan plate is more inclusive so there is no loss in have a number of vegan options. A greater emphasis in restaurants should be given to seasonal local vegetables. It helps support local farmers and from a food cost perspective it probably is more viable for the restaurant as well.

Whilst there are a number of places that offer good vegan options, one cannot not mention ‘Balance Bowl’ in Gzira, a 100% vegan restaurant.

What would be the best answer to give to all people criticising your diet and lifestyle choice?

I think I’ve heard them all by now. Like those that tell me, that they are vegan as they eat cows that eat grass, or those that re-write the Genesis to state that God made animals to be eaten by humans. How do you describe a person that is standing in front of a recycling bin and throws an empty bottle on the floor? Now make the parallel!

Which diet and lifestyle respects our planet and the biodiversity and animals on it and people and their heath as well, as much as a vegan lifestyle?

Furthermore, many today talk against human slavery which unfortunately still exists. Every animal bred for food suffers. Not knowing or ignoring the suffering doesn’t change the fact. How can I enjoy a plate of food made from suffering and torture? Why should I kill another life when I can probably live a healthier life eating a plant-based diet? Speciesism exists just like racism, sexism and so forth.

Speciesism results in the belief that we as humans have the right to use nonhuman animals for food, clothing blood sports, experimentation, classifying

some animals as invasive and others as livestock (inventory that is alive). It breaks the Golden Rule, which is the ethic of reciprocity in most religions. This is the principle of treating others (not just humans) as one wants to be treated.

For our readers who find cooking to be intimidating, what would you recommend to get them more comfortable in their plant-based kitchens?

Well as a starter watch ‘Ghand il-Vegan’ or log on to veggymalta.com and try out the vegan recipes on Gourmet Today. But yes, there are so many cooking shows and sites; both local and international. We are truly spoilt for choice.

What do you think the future holds for veganism?

I would like to state that the future is vegan. I would add that the future needs to be vegan as we have reached 8 billion people in November. With veganism we can sustainably feed all 8 billion people, eradicate hunger and at the same time return large areas of land back to nature. The path to solving climate change cannot be done with diet change.

This might seem a long shot yet 20% of 16- to 24-year-olds in the UK are following a vegetarian or vegan diet. The most encouraging thing is that growth of veganism over the past years has been exponential. So yes, the future look bright for veganism.

You’re well-known for your show Għand il-Vegan. What can we look forward to this season?

Għand il-Vegan evolved from last year to this year. Last year we had a different format where we would speak about the various issues behind and related to veganism. This year we wanted to create a different viewer experience. We still have a guest cooking a vegan dish, yet this year we are inviting different personalities from media, sports, acting and singers to come on the show after doing a one-week vegan challenge.

The result, I believe, is good and most guests didn’t find it too hard to go vegan for a week…. including Philippa, the editor of the magazine.

P hotos and recipes

By Daniel Pisani marrowhealth.com

Kale and orzo soup

Serves 4 INGREDIENTS

Spelt salad 200g orzo pasta (risoni) 150g chopped and washed kale (remove stems)

1 can of chopped tomatoes

1 tbsp ground sumac

1.5 tsp nigella seeds

1 cinnamon stick 2 leeks 3 cloves garlic

Salt to taste

METHOD

1. Start by finely chopping the leeks and garlic.

2. In a small ramekin combine the sumac, nigella seeds & cinnamon stick.

3. In a wide pan, heat some olive oil and cook the leeks for a couple of minutes.

4. Toss the garlic and the spices stir once again for not more than 2 minutes before tossing the chopped tomatoes (keep the can).

5. Stir for a couple more minutes until the sauce has thickened, then toss the orzo and stir.

6. Fill the tomato can twice with water and bring to a boil then immediately bring to a simmer, when the pasta orzo is al dente, toss the kale and cook for just a few more minutes before serving.

7. Top with some crumbled feta, vegan feta or local dried cheeselet.

Root 81 Wins Best Restaurant In Malta Award

La The Definitive(ly) Good Guide to Restaurants Awards

Ceremony held its annual awards ceremony on 5 December at The Xara Lodge, where Malta’s top 40 restaurants were announced amongst other awards.

The awards celebrated the outstanding achievement of Malta and Gozo’s top rated restaurants as voted in an online survey by 3557 diners who dined out on average one to two times a week; equivalent to a total of 277,446 dining experiences in a year.

Root 81, a lavish eatery on Saqajja Hill, Rabat, was awarded the Top Overall Restaurant Award. The Top 40 Award winning restaurants were taken from the highest rated restaurants, taking into account their overall rating, the number of people rating, comments and other data from the survey.

The top 40 restaurants winning award plates in order from most highly rated were:

Root 81

The Golden Fork

The Phoenix Risette

The Aft Galley

Grotto Tavern Al Sale

Ta’ Tona Maggie’s Rebekah’s Susurrus Da Luigi Noni

L’Orangerie Bistro Step 15 Beppe’s Onda Blu Venus Barbajean Ristorante La Vela Galea’s Kitchen Surf N Turf Il-Hnejja Tal-Familja Under Grain La Vida Meraki Wine & Dine de Mondion MUŻA Palazzo Preca LOA

Fernando Gastrotheque

Ta’ Frenc Tarragon The Sixth Leaf Il-Bitha Ion at the Harbour Bahia Hammett’s Mestizo Dinner in the Sky

Additional Awards in different categories were made:

Best Food – Venus

Best Ambience – LOA Restaurant Most Dedicated to Supporting Local & Best Local Wine List – de Mondion and Country Terrace respectively

Best Restaurant in Gozo – Al Sale

The Best Chef Award – Jean Pierre Dingli of Barbajean Best Business Entertainment – Caviar & Bull

Best Newcomer – The Aft Galley

Most Children-Friendly Restaurant – Don Royale

Best Maltese Restaurant –Diar il-Bniet

Most Romantic Restaurant –Barbajean

Best Value for Money Restaurant – Il-Kartell

Favourite Café – Busy Bee

The Definitive(ly) Good Guide to Restaurants in association with Vini e Capricci by Abraham’s Wine Awards were as follows:

The People’s Choice Wine List (taken from the results of the surveys) – Barbajean .

Best Overall Wine List: Fernandos Gastrotheque

Best Presented Wine List: Barbajean

Best Wine by the glass selection: Hammett’s Mestizo. Best Fine Wine List: Tarragon

Best Short Wine List: Barbajean

Best Port Wine List: Country Terrace

For a list of all the awards, visit www.restaurantsmalta. com

Lobster

With avocado cream, cherry tomatoes, orange-flavoured crumble, hot chilli pepper and mint

Ingredients

3 frown lobster 2 avocado 200 gr of cherry tomatoes 150 gr of bread 1/2 orange Hot chilli pepper to taste mint to taste

Extra-virgin olive oil

Preparation

1 Defrost the lobster leaving it at room temperature and remove the flesh from the body and the claws

2 Peel the avocado and remove the seed; dice half and put the other half to one side

3 Chop the tomatoes 4 Mix up the avocado, the chopped tomatoes and the spicy paprika and obtain a cream

For the orange-flavoured crumble:

1 Crumble the bread and squeeze the half orange over it

2 Heat a drizzle of oil in a pan, add the bread and orange juice little by little, and remove when the bread is crispy

Presentation

Place the cream and the diced cubes on the plate. Cut the lobster tail lengthways and place it on the cream. Lightly cover the lobster and the empty part of the plate with the crumble. Finally, garnish with the mint.