Gourmet Today April 2022

ISSUE 63 • APRIL 2022

AJ

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AJ

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Editor’s Note Strawberries! Fava beans! Peas! There’s a lot to love about spring, and seasonal produce is definitely up there. Each year as January turns to February and February turns to March, we start eagerly pulling out some of our favorite recipes in anticipation of warmer weather and the seasonal ingredients that come with it.

With Easter round the corner, it’s time to start thinking about all our favourite Easter foods, too. In this issue, Chef Alain James Grech has got us all covered with an impressive three course meal to serve on Easter Sunday.

We delve deeper into Easter traditions, and from a sweet potato casserole in the USA to a seafood stir fry in the Philippines, we take a look at Easter lunches around the world.

We all love a figolla or two, and maybe even a bite of kwarezimal, but do we know the history behind them? Where did Malta’s favourite treats come from? Rebecca Mallia Bugeja goes back in time and tells all, even throwing in her very own recipes of both.

Whether you’re looking for a main course, a dessert, or an appetiser, you’re bound to find a new recipe you love. Read on for what we’ll be making at home this spring.

Philippa

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Contents April 22

Warm Octopus Salad at Le Bistro

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Rabbit Belly Mille-Feuille

Managing Editor: Saviour Balzan Editor: Philippa Zammit pzammit@mediatoday.com.mt Design: Philippa Zammit Photography: James Bianchi Head of sales: Adriana Farrugia afarrugia@mediatoday.com.mt

Published by:

Vjal ir-Riħan, San Ġwann SGN 9016 Malta Tel: +356 2138 2741 Fax: +356 2138 1992 www.maltatoday.com.mt Printed at: Print It Printing Services

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Cover: Chef Alain James Grech’s Local Easter Feast Photo image by Aleksandar Lazarević

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Cooking with Almonds

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Restaurant Review: Henry J Beans

Chef Alain James Grech’s Local Easter Feast

Traditional Easter Foods from Around the World

Restaurant Review: Le Bistro

Yakof Debono’s Almond Recipes

Local Easter Sweets

Food on the Go: Top Five Food Trucks

The Vegan Corner

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Wish List LEFFE BLONDE BEER

MALTA TILE PATTERN MUG

Leffe Blonde is an authentic blond abbey beer with a slight hint of bitterness to it.

It is delicate but characteristic, Leffe Blonde is the tasting beer par excellence: it gives an extra touch of flavor to simple dishes and lightly accompanies your fried foods. The strong malty aroma of Leffe Blonde reveals a sweet bitterness in perfect harmony with notes of vanilla and clove.

This ceramic mug collection was inspired by the artist’s fascination with old Maltese tiles. Each mug is packaged in a custom-designed cardboard gift box that features the different tile patterns in the series.

This collection complements the mugs, coasters and placemats in the Tile Collage Collection as well as the apron.

For colour preservation it is advised to hand wash only with care and not to use the dishwasher. Get yours from stephanieborg.com

A PLANT-BASED MALTESE KITCHEN

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Whether you are vegan, vegetarian or simply interested in cutting down on your consumption of meat, eggs and dairy – ‘A Plant Based Maltese Kitchen’

by Daniel Pisani offers a seasonal variety of delicious and easy to follow plantbased recipes influenced by the rich culinary history of the Maltese islands. The book is available at several book stores as well as at marrowhealth.com

ACAI BOWLS Healthy fast-food, anyone? Not everyone has time to eat in a way that’s both healthy and energetic. Oakberry’s mission is to deliver a tasty, natural and nutritious experience, fast. The açaí pulp, which accounts for only about 15% of the fruit, is a natural antioxidant that neutralises free radicals. It is also rich in minerals like potassium and calcium, vitamin E, healthy fatty acids like omega 6 and 9, and proteins. Pick and choose additional ingredients such as fresh frut and granola. Oakberry outlets are located in Sliema and Paceville.

CAST IRON COOKWARE Lava makes their dutch ovens with three layers of beautiful porcelain enamel outside and a special chef preferred, black matte finish inside. The enamels are bonded into premium cast iron that is fired twice for maximum beauty, durability, and cooking performance.

Only the best cookware in the world is made this way.

Cast iron cookware is suitable for all types of cooking techniques. Heat spreads equally across the entire cooking surface providing the perfect cooking

environment for meals that require long cooking periods over medium heat such as stews or recipes calling for olive oil. Meats cooked in cast iron have a grill taste while vegetables cooked in cast iron have a roasted flavour.

Steam generated in your Lava cast iron cookware

CERAMIC WROUGHT IRON COASTERS These elegant wrought iron patterns are inspired from the beauty of Maltese facades, decorated with detailed artisan wrought iron works. Enhance your kitchen and tableware with these coasters.

Each ceramic tile coaster comes with a cork base to protect your surfaces. You can choose from the other patterns: Ħanina, Qalbiena, Twajba or Felħana. Get yours from stephanieborg.com

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Orders for Home Deliveries via www.srausi.com

ISIS CHARDONNAY Isis has a brilliant, strawyellow colour with a pale green rim; a fresh, complex bouquet of grapefruit and other exotic white fruits with gentle floral notes; and a well-structured, citrus taste with a long, pleasantly acidic, aftertaste. This wine may be served with grilled fish and seafood and white meats, such as chicken & rabbit. For info about Meridiana Wine Estate’s full range of wines www. meridiana.com.mt or find them on Facebook.

Trade Enquiries: S Rausi Trading, Stadium Street, Gzira - www.srausi.com

RICE COOKER Create a whole range of tasty rice dishes for the family with the Progress Rice Cooker. A generous 1.8L capacity and 700 W power, teamed with cook and keep warm functions makes this device a great addition to any kitchen.

Measuring 27.60 x 27.70 x 24 cm this cooker has a removable non-stick rice bowl for effortless cleaning and storage.

Complete with a tempered glass lid, make up to 10 cups of fluffy rice for the whole family thanks to the included measuring cup and spatula. Get yours from Petrolea.

ANNA G. MAGNET Alessi introduced refrigerator magnets, having wonderful colours, shapes and features, perfect craftsmanship and also reminding you of Alessi’s most popular playful products. This Anna G. magnet is a clear reference to the iconic Anna G. corkscrew designed by Alessandro Mendini. Get yours from Petrolea.

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CHARCUTERIE OLIVE WOOD BOARD This premium quality olive wood charcuterie board has been hand painted and handcrafted in Malta. The beautiful grain of olive wood follows the tortuous way the trees grow. It is hard wearing and with a little care will last a lifetime.

Added to this it has natural antibacterial properties. There is nothing to beat a really good, thick, wooden board and there is no better wood to use than olive wood. Present on this sleek, warm wood a selection of bread, cheese, antipasti, and tapas. The shape of this board is also both practical to hold thanks to the handle and simple enough to let the natural beauty of the wood shine. The organic look of this board and the great size is perfect for displaying your bespoke design in your home as well as adding a touch of class to your decor. Get yours from bonnymia. com

HOMEMADE KOMBUCHA Who says healthy stuff can’t taste good? All natural, homemade kombucha by The Good Witch is a delicious probiotic goodness. Made from fermented tea leaves steeped in water and sugar, this traditional Chinese drink will boost your metabolism and strengthen your immune system.

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CALL ON 2798 8357 OR SEND AN EMAIL TO SPA@VILLAGEHOTELMALTA.COM TO BENEFIT FROM THIS OFFER! |

A taste of America in St.Julian’s We m a ke o u r w ay to He n r y J B e a n s , a f u n - p a cke d a l l - A m e r i c a n bar and grill offering a casual dining experience in a relaxed atmosphere

Wo rd s b y Ph i l i p p a Z a m m i t

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t’s Saturday. I usually spend half the morning sipping green tea in bed, nibbling on biscuits and getting crumbs all over the place. I’m contemplating hitting the shops… when my mobile beeps.

‘Meet for lunch in an hour?’ It’s Amy, and lunch in an hour sounds far more fun than chaos and queues. But where to eat when in need of some weekend sustenance?

The quest for the perfect eatery continued until we found ourselves at one of those places that everyone seems to know and love. Wait for it… Henry J Beans (but let’s just call him Hank), the funky American bar and grill in the heart of St Julian’s. In fact, this space was actually a family favourite 8

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when I was younger. I tend to remember drinking diet coke and stuffing my face with BBQ ribs. In the intervening years, not much has changed except maybe the diet coke. Let’s swap that with a Moscow Mule.

In an equally large and impressive location overlooking St George’s Bay, this place offers anything American that comes to mind. With cosy booths down the sides, wooden high tables and stools and memorabilia everywhere such as retro coca cola and beer signs, it really is a throwback to the 1950’s.

There’s a large terrace outside if the weather’s good, and guess what? The sun was bright, the sun was shining, so we couldn’t help but opt for a table outdoors.

Space comes at a premium in Malta so any restaurant that encourages you to get a little bit of air in your lungs is a plus in my books.

extra mushroom and vegan cheese. This plant-based option, though a complete contrast from my order, was (almost) as impressive.

Once terrace-seated, we chose a couple of cocktails from the extensive menu while deciding what to eat. We set our eyes on the neighbouring table’s HJB combo platter, and even though its size scared us a little, we took the plunge, accepted the challenge and devoured this American party from start to finish.

After lunch, unable to move, to still wanting to satisfy our sweet tooth, we got our hands on Hank’s special salted caramel tiramisu to share.

The voodoo chicken wings were tangy and delicious (Hank does not play when it comes to chicken wings), the chicken pieces tender but crunchy and the extra large onion rings were extra crispy. Garlic bread and tortilla chips were thrown in for good measure because what’s a combo platter without tortilla chips and garlic bread? Not a combo platter.

It’s time for the main course and I decided to go for Hank’s classic, the Rackin’ Ribs smothered in Hank’s secret BBQ sauce. I’ve had them a couple of years back so I had high hopes, and what can I say, these ribs lived up to them: flavoursome, juicy and tender to the teeth.

Amy opted for the lamb kofta burger, another highlight on the menu and one that we’d consider writing a song about.

And I say ‘we’ because sharing is caring. What we loved about it is the tanginess from the creamy yogurt that helped balance the rich lamb flavour. Simply superb.

Whilst the menu is predominated by meaty options, it’s truly massive with many more options to choose from. There’s even a section for the plant-based eaters, and in fact, one of our vegetable friends went for the vegan burger with

The lesson here: do not eat for at least four hours (more if you can manage it – I can’t) before stepping foot inside Henry J Beans because there’s no way you’re getting out of here anything other than food-baby full.

Side note: If this is too much food for you, or if you’re counting calories and have enough will power (which we certainly did not), they also serve salads. The American Chef ’s salad is served with bacon, mushrooms, chicken breast and Applewood cheese. Good(ish) on the diet and still totally satisfying.

Most places either feel like bars (where you can also maybe eat) or restaurants (where you can also maybe drink). Hanks, is that rare, perfect middle ground. So whether you’re after an evening of overindulging with family, watching the game on the big screen or simply there for their Happy Hour (and a half ), this trendy American bar and grill goes the whole hog.

There are lots of ways to do Hanks, but the greater point we’re trying to make is: just go. Like, now. Or tomorrow at the very latest... you’ve got from noon till midnight.

Oh, and in case you require any more motivation to pay our friend Hank a visit, dining here at any time of the day entitles you to a free parking ticket!

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A local Easter Feast

BY CHEF ALAIN JAMES GRECH

Photography: Aleksandar Lazarević

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RABBIT BELLY MILLE-FEUILLE Serves 6 starters

INGREDIENTS 1kg rabbit belly 2 sprigs thyme, chopped 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 sprig rosemary, chopped 200g fresh peas 200g fresh fava beans 5 mint leaves, chopped 1 tbsp chardonnay vinegarp 2 cloves Maltese garlic

METHOD The rabbit belly 1.

Mix the bellies with garlic, rosemary, thyme and seasoning and layer on a roasting tray.Cover with foil and bake for 3 hours @130 deg. Press overnight in refrigerator and cut in separate portions.

The garlic chips 1.

Slice garlic thinly and boil and refresh in cold water for 8 times. Drain and fry in vegetable oil @140 deg until crispy and golden. Drain and season with salt.

The fava bean and pea salad 1.

Blance the fava beans and peas in boiling water for 20 seconds, season with salt and pepper and add the chopped mint and Chardonnay vinegar.

Warm up the bellies, dress with the salad and garlic chips, peashoots and some nice flowers.

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PAN ROASTED LAMB RUMP Serves 6 INGREDIENTS 6 pcs lamb rump 50g butter 2 springs thyme 2 sprigs rosemary 1 clove garlic 12 pc baby carrots 3 medium size onions 2 leeks 500g new potatoes Butter Olive oil Salt and pepper

Bok Choy

METHOD 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

Clean the lamb rump from the skin and extra fat.

Pan fry on the side of the fat untill golden brown, flip and add the garlic and herbs. Add butter and baste, roast @180 deg for 15 minutes and set to rest.

For the baby carrots, peel and poach in water, butter and little lit of sugar, then season with salt and pepper and cook until soft.

Cut the onions in half and sear on the flesh until brown. Add butter and herbs and roast until soft. Once cooked, chill and slice in quarters and re heat before serving.

For the leeks, cut in desired chunky pieces and fry in the pan untill soft.

Before serving, heat up all components, wilt the bok choy and assemble the dish.

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Snacking

Many people think that snacks are unhealthy additions to their eating pattern and that snacking leads to weight gain.

The key to whether snacking is good or bad depends on the quality of snacks a person seeks, and how much of them one eats. If one chooses carefully and plans ahead, snacks can be a healthy part of the diet.

Snacks provide energy for ones activities through the day and they can provide valuable nutrients such as vitamins, minerals, protein, and fibre. An important attribute of snacking is that, it might decrease cravings and halt overeating at the next meal by preventing a person from becoming too hungry. On the other hand, some snack foods (even ones which might claim to be healthy) can be a source of extra fat, sugar, and salt. Therefore,

understanding food labels will aid in choosing carefully and taking control of portion sizes.

Snacks should be chosen from different food groups such as fruit, vegetables, milk, and dairy products. A key to healthy eating is to consume a variety of nutritious food. One way to achieve this is to consume different snacks from various food groups throughout the week. Many of these foods are minimally processed foods which are great for snacking at home or on the go and will help you reach the recommended portions per day, for example, two to three fruit servings and three to five vegetable! With just a little forward planning, it is easy to make your snacks a healthy and valuable part of your diet.

Superintendence of Public Health

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LOCAL STRAWBERRY TART Makes 10 INGREDIENTS For the pastry 550g white flour 200g butter 120g icing sugar 2 eggs For the crème diplomat Custard 200ml cream 100g sugar 80g flour 1 vanilla pod 5 egg yolks 80g butter cut in cubes 300ml cream for whipping

METHOD The pastry 1.

2.

Mix the butter and flour in a food processor, add icing sugar and eggs and form a dough.

Rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes and then prepare tartlets. Rest in the mould for a further 30 minutes in the refrigerator and bake @180 deg untill golden brown.

The crème diplomat 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

Bloil the cream and vanilla In a bowl whisk the egg yolks, sugar and flour.

Add hot vanilla cream to egg mixture and mix well.

Transfare to clean stainless steel pot and heat slowly while whisking untill tick.

Remove from heat and whisk in the butter. Place in a clean bowl and cover the top of the custard with a baking paper or stretch and seal to prevent a tick layer on the top. Place in fridge untill cold.

Whisk the cream untill soft peeks are formed and fold into the cold custard.

Place mix in piping bag.

Pipe the diplomat cream on the tarts, garnish with fresh strawberries and strawberry jelly and enjoy.

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Traditional Easter foods from around the world Wo rd s b y E m i l y Fr a n c i s

Honey Baked Ham in America

T

he Easter meal is a huge event for Christians around the world. As diverse as every culture is, so is the traditional Easter meal.

There is always an abundance of side dishes and let’s not forget the many incredible desserts that pair with each culture to go with the main meat or seafood of course. For the purpose of this article, we will stick to the traditional meat dish served on Easter Sunday from countries around the world.

I am compiling a list of the main meats served in different Christian countries based on the friends I have met here on the island. This is not according to professional chefs, but instead from the women and men who prepare the Easter meals for their families.

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I will begin with the United States because that is where I’m from and what I know best. For us, it might be seafood up until that Sunday meal, but on Easter Sunday, it’s honeybaked ham all the way. And not your homemade honey-baked ham, but instead, there is a place to go pick up your signature ham known as The Honey Baked Ham Company with locations all over the country for such a special occasion. You can identify this signature ham anywhere even without seeing it in its signature golden wrapping to hold in all the juices before it’s served. It comes with a coating about a quarter of an inch thick of crunchy brown sugar, maple syrup sweetness that encases that spiralised ham. The ham comes pre-sliced and ready to serve. This meat and anything else people like to serve, make it feel like an Easter Sunday meal.

Sweet potato casserole usually sits beside that honeybaked ham on the table along with rolls as the main three parts of the Easter meal. Then it becomes more according to family tradition what sides are added.

In Italy, lamb is the meat of choice to grace the Easter table. Depending on the part of Italy, the lamb dishes differ, but lamb remains the central offering. For example, in Rome crispy lamb ribs tend to be the main meat dish known in Italian is Abbacchio a Scottadito.

This is usually served together with artichokes, potatoes and rosemary in the same dish. In Northern Italy, the lamb is prepared with egg and cheese sauces in its dish.

In Greece, Easter is considered the most important holiday celebration. Lamb is the main dish of any Greek Easter table. Most prefer to roast a lamb on a spit.

Others who don’t like to see the whole animal will serve roast lamb from the oven instead. Lamb is a signature Easter meal dish for the Greeks. It is usually in a large pan served with roasted potatoes in the same baking sheet. The lamb on a spit is a significant part of the festivities for many Greeks.

In Brazil, Easter dinner sticks to the seafood menu and serves salt cod as their typical offering. In Portuguese this salt cod is known as Bacalhau. The cod may be served in a bowl with hard-boiled eggs, olives and olive oil or butter as the liquid.

In Spain, they too like to serve cured cod. They serve it with apple, fennel and marjoram as a salad and rack of lamb as the main course meat. The lamb can be served with fennel, anchovies, Spanish olive oil and olives in one serving tray as the Easter dish. Their side dishes might include egg and chorizo migas along with vegetables such as peas or asparagus.

In the Philippines, they too serve a seafood dish as the primary Easter meal offering. But they don’t stick to just

Salted cod served in Brasil

one seafood dish or even one single pork dish as the main dishes. Seafood Salpicao is squid served with shrimp along with vegetables such as broccoli, carrots, onions and peppers. Buttered seafood is a shrimp and crab dish cooked with butter and topped with simple lemon slices.

Another seafood dish called Inihaw Na Bangus where the whole fish is grilled. Pork tenderloin also tends to make an appearance beside the fish as well as well as fried pork.

When it comes to the Philippines, big meals with friends and family are how it’s done. It’s never just one main meat dish served on the table, especially for such a celebration as the Easter meal.

Seafood Salficao served in Philippines

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EMILY’S AMERICAN STYLE SWEET POTATO CASSEROLE INGREDIENTS

METHOD

4 cups sweet potatoes cubed and cooked to fork tender 1/2 cup sugar 2 eggs large 1/2 tsp salt 4 tbs butter soft 1/2 cup milk (or cream if you want to make it more decadent) 1/2 tsp vanilla extract 1/4 tsp nutmeg 1/4 tsp cinnamon

1.

2.

3.

For the topping 1/2 cup packed brown sugar 1/3 cup all purpose flour 3 tbs butter soft 1/2 cup chopped pecans Topping: either 10 ounces mini marshmallows to line in rows on top or Brown sugar and pecan topping: Ingredients: www.gourmettoday.recipes 1/220 cup packed brown sugar

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

Pre heat oven to 165 C Cook sweet potatoes until fork tender.

Mix in a large bowl: sweet potatoes, sugar, eggs, butter, milk/cream, vanilla, cinnamon and nutmeg.

Pour into a greased baking dish In a medium bowl, mix flour and brown sugar.

Add butter until the mixture becomes coarse.

Add pecans to the mixture and then spread the mixture over the sweet potatoes.

Bake 30 minutes until the top is brown.

FILIPINO STYLE SEAFOOD SALPICAO INGREDIENTS 1/4 kilo shrimp, cleaned 1/4 squid, cut into rings 1/2 mussels, steamed and removed from shells(optional) 1 onion, chopped 6 cloves garlic, minced 1 thumb-sized ginger, chopped 3 stalks onion leeks, sliced diagonally 2 tablespoons coriander, chopped 1 bell pepper, sliced 80 grams pieces snow peas, trimmed 100 grams young corn, halves 100g shiitake mushrooms, sliced 4 tbs oyster sauce 1/2 cup water 3 tbs vegetable oil salt and pepper to taste

METHOD 1. In a wok, heat oil then saute ginger, garlic and onion.

2. Add young corn, mushroom then stir fry for 3 minutes.

3. Pour water and bring to boil then add seafood and simmer for 3 minutes.

4. Add oyster sauce, salt and pepper according to taste.

5. Add snow peas, onion leeks, coriander and bell pepper then cook for another 3 minutes.

6. Transfer to serving plate then garnish with remaining coriander.

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An awe-inspiring Mediterranean eatery in St Julian’s With its welcoming ambience, Le Bistro is the place to be for an unforgettable experience, unbelievably great food, and first-rate service

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Wo r d s b y Te r r e n c e M i f s u d

s winter comes to an end and Spring makes its way to our doorstep, the opportunity to visit

different yet equally spectacular eateries is always the first thing that comes to mind. We received the lovely invitation to dine at Le Bistro at the Radisson Blu Resort St Julian’s on a fine Wednesday evening, a perfect way to soothe our midweek cravings and alleviate our stress from the busy week we were facing. Upon entering the restaurant, we were instantaneously greeted by the amiable and well-rounded staff.

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We made our way to our table and the talented food and beverage executive who greeted us was extremely diligent and answered all of our pertinent questions. My guest and I ordered the finest local white wine the restaurant could offer and we were complimented with fresh warm bread, served with olive oil and vinegar all the way from the sister island of Gozo. The bread was also accompanied with Gozitan kunserva, as well as unsalted butter with fresh herbs. While this may sound hyperbolic, I have to express the immense euphoric feeling we were experiencing whilst indulging in that

divine bread… so soft and flavourful!

We had a hard time choosing our starter and main course as everything seemed delicious and appetising. After much evaluation, for starters, I opted for the fresh garganelli with truffle oil and wild boar, grated ricotta salata and fresh herbs. My guest opted for something more eye-catching; the warm octopus salad, served with carrots, yuzu and fennel marinated with orange. The tangy flavours of the yuzu and fennel immersed with the rich flavours of the octopus were simply incredible. One cannot mention fantastic starters without going back to the garganelli wild boar ragout to highlight the multifaceted flavours of the dish. This particular dish was my personal favourite as apart from being a pasta lover, I have a thing for different meats and wild boar is now something off my bucket list!

After those coveted starters, we gradually moved on to the main course. My guest and I opted for two mains to share; the baby chicken with polenta, baby corn, and fresh herbs, as well as the braised beef cheeks, which were accompanied with oyster mushrooms, fresh herbs, pumpkin puree and port jus. The braised beef was slow-cooked for approximately eight hours so you can imagine just how juicy and flavourful they were. Both main courses were served with fresh local seasonal potatoes and vegetables to share. As we continued to dig in, the silence between my guest and I signified that the food left us metaphorically and literally, speechless.

What made the baby chicken taste so tender was the fact that it was sous vide cooked, a process where food is cooked in temperature-controlled water, where it is sealed in an airtight vacuum bag. Despite the generous amount that towered both of our dishes, we still managed to clean our plates.

We felt full to the brim but who are we to leave the restaurant without trying out their picturesque desserts? The first dessert we dug into was the rosehip cheesecake, embellished with ginger biscuits and rhubarb sorbet on the side. Then we turned to the warm-plum crumble, served with finger-licking cinnamon ice-cream on top and port sabayon. Everything from the ice-cream, to the fluffy base, and the flaky crust was a total hit!

I’m sure all this talk food talk has made you crave a finedining experience. Well, I came to bare some good news, as Le Bistro is open from 18:00 to 22:00 from Monday to Friday and from 18:00 till 22:30 on Saturdays and from the 10th April also available for Sunday lunch and dinner. Parking is included.

With its welcoming ambience, Le Bistro is the place to be for an unforgettable experience, unbelievably great food, and first-rate service.

I know you’re intrigued! Treat yourself and your loved ones to a scrumptious dinner at Le Bistro in St Julian’s.

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RECIPES & PHOTOGRAPHY

BY YAKOF DEBONO 24

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STUFFED BAKED ARTICHOKES WITH ALMOND SAUCE Serves 4 INGREDIENTS For the artichokes 8 artichokes Juice of 1 lemon 150ml white wine For the stuffing 5 tbsp breadcrumbs 3 garlic cloves 8 anchovy fillets in oil 2 tbsp fresh mint, finely chopped 2 tbsp fresh parsley, finely chopped Zest of 1 lemon Extra-virgin olive oil 3 tbsp grated pecorino cheese or parmesan Salt & pepper

For the almond sauce 1 small onion, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 3 anchovies, chopped 100g ground almonds 250ml chicken stock 4 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp vinegar 1 tbsp sugar Juice of 1 lemon Pepper 2 tbsp capers

METHOD 1. Squeeze the lemon into a large bowl and mix with some water. To prepare the artichokes, trim the stalk down to 3cm, peeling some layers off the woody section. Remove plenty of the outer leaves until almost all that is left is the base. Expose the outer edge of the artichoke base with a knife, cutting off any remaining leaf sections around the base as you do so.

2. Slice the artichokes in half and scrape out those strings with a teaspoon. Put the halved artichokes in the lemon water until ready to use to prevent browning.

3. In a dry frying pan, toast the breadcrumbs for about 1 minute. Transfer to a plate. Do not wash the frying pan because you will need it for the sauce.

4. Chop the garlic together with the anchovies. In a bowl, stir the chopped garlic and anchovies together with the herbs, lemon zest, toasted breadcrumbs, 5 tablespoons olive oil, and cheese until well combined. Season with salt and pepper.

5. Preheat the oven to 160ºC or Gas Mark 3. Fill the artichoke halves with the stuffing mixture. Place all the stuffed artichokes, filled side up, in a baking dish. Pour the wine all around them and add 300ml of water and drizzle with plenty of olive oil. Cover with foil and seal properly. Bake for 40 minutes.

6. In the meantime make the almond sauce. Fry the onion until golden and add the garlic. Add the anchovies and allow them to melt; then add the almonds, pour in the stock, and simmer for 15 minutes until thick. Beat in the oil, vinegar, sugar, lemon, salt, and pepper. Remove from the heat and add the capers.

7. Serve the artichokes with more olive oil and the almond sauce on top. Eat with bread or some boiled potatoes.

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HUMMUS CRUSTED CHICKEN WITH ALMOND DUKKAH Serves 4

METHOD

INGREDIENTS For the chicken

For the almond dukkah

4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts Salt and pepper 1 cup good-quality hummus (plus extra) 1 tbsp olive oil (plus extra) 2 lemons 1 tsp sumac or paprika

120g blanched almonds 2 tbsp sesame seeds 2 tbsp coriander seeds 2 tbsp cumin seeds ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp pepper

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

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For the almond dukkah, preheat the oven to 160ºC. Put the almonds in a foil dish and the seeds into another foil dish. Leave the seeds to roast for 4 minutes and the almonds for 10 minutes. Allow the nuts and seeds to cool and leave the oven on.

Place the roasted almonds, seeds, salt, and pepper in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until they are coarsely chopped. Make sure not to over chop them as the mixture can become a paste. You need this mixture to be crumbly. Transfer the dukkah to a bowl and set aside.

Raise the oven temperature to 230ºC or Gas Mark 8. Prepare a large baking tray and grease with some olive oil or cooking spray.

Using kitchen paper, pat dry the chicken breasts and season generously with salt and pepper. Slice one of the lemons into 4 thick wheels and place onto the baking dish.

Lay the chicken breasts on the lemon wheels in the prepared baking dish. Cover each chicken breast with a layer of hummus so that the entire breast is covered.

Squeeze the juice of the remaining lemon all over the chicken and sprinkle with sumac or paprika (or both). Bake for 25-30 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through.

Serve each chicken breast on a bed of hummus and sprinkle the almond dukkah all over. Serve immediately.

PUMPKIN SOUP WITH ORZO & AMARETTI BISCUITS Serves 6

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

0.8-1 kg pumpkin 500ml water 2 chicken/vegetable stockpots/ cubes 150g orzo pasta 500ml full-fat milk 3 tbsp Greek yoghurt 1 tsp Ras el Hanout Salt and pepper Ground cinnamon Grated Parmesan 6 crunchy amaretti biscuits

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2.

3.

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Peel and deseed the pumpkin. Cut into medium-sized cubes and put in a large pan with the water and stockpots/cubes.

Bring to the boil the simmer, covered, over low heat for 20 mins or until soft.

At the same time, boil some water in a smaller pan and cook the orzo for 10 minutes until al dente, and drain quickly.

When the pumpkin is cooked, drain and blend to a puree using a hand blender. Add the milk, Greek yoghurt, and Ras el Hanout and bring to a simmer, taking care not to over boil.

Season with salt and pepper.

Just before serving, bring the pumpkin soup to a simmer and add the boiled orzo. Serve with a pinch of cinnamon, grated cheese and crumbled amaretti biscuits.

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KWAREŻIMAL BROWNIES Serves 8-10 INGREDIENTS 4 tbsp butter, melted 130g dark chocolate (good for cooking) 3.5 tbsp cocoa powder 2 eggs 1 cup sugar 2 tbsp carob syrup (or add 2 tbsp more sugar) 1 tsp vanilla essence 2 tsp almond essence 3 tsp orange-blossom water 1 tsp each cinnamon, aniseed, cardamom and dried thyme Grated zests of 1 orange and 1 lemon 1 tsp sea salt flakes ¾ cup tahini 1/2 cup ground almonds 50g crushed hazelnuts/almonds Drizzle of honey METHOD 1.

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3.

4.

5.

6.

RED WINE RISOTTO WITH FENNEL & ALMONDS Serves 4-6

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

1 bulb fennel, roughly chopped 1 onion, roughly chopped 1 tbsp olive oil 3 tbsp butter 1 tsp honey 3 cloves of garlic, grated 150g almonds, toasted in a frying pan; 2 cups arborio rice 1.5 cups dry red wine 2 tsp fennel seeds 2 tbsp fresh rosemary leaves (or 1 tbsp dried) 1 tbsp dried thyme 4 cups (950ml) vegetable stock 100g Parmesan cheese, grated Pinch of salt and black pepper.

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Preheat the oven to gas mark 4/180°C/160°C. Grease an 8-inch square pan and line it with two pieces of foil (one across and one along). Brush the foil with some butter.

In a small pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Once melted, remove from the heat, and add the chopped dark chocolate and the cocoa powder. Mix well.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk the eggs, tahini, sugar, carob syrup (or 2 tbsp more sugar), vanilla essence, almond essence, cinnamon, aniseed, cardamom, thyme, orangeblossom water, citrus zests, and salt. Stir in the ground almonds into the moist ingredients.

Reserve half of the tahini batter in separate bowl for later.

Stir in the melted chocolate mixture into the remaining tahini batter and stir well until very well combined. Pour this batter into the foil-lined dish and spread evenly.

Using a tablespoon, spoon some reserved tahini batter on top and with the tip of a knife, swirl the tahini batter into the chocolate batter.

Place the dish in the middle shelf of the oven and bake for 30 minutes or until the edges are set but still looking moist.

Cool for another 30 minutes in the dish and remove from the pan by lifting the foil edges. Cool them for an additional hour (very very important) and then slice them into equal slabs. Drizzle some honey on top and crushed hazelnuts/ almonds..

In a large casserole pan, heat 2 tbsp butter and 1 tbsp olive oil over medium heat.

Wait until the butter is completely melted and then add the chopped fennel and onion. Cook the vegetables for 5 minutes.

To the fennel and onion, add a pinch of salt and 1 tsp of honey. Turn the heat up to high and cook the vegetables for a further 10 minutes, stirring frequently until the onion becomes tanned and opaque.

In the meantime, simmer the vegetable stock in a separate pan.

To the fennel and onion, add the toasted almonds, grated garlic, arborio rice, fennel seeds, rosemary, thyme, and black pepper. Cook the rice for 3 minutes until the rice is translucent around the edges. Add the red wine, stirring frequently until fully absorbed (takes about 4 minutes).

When the red wine is fully absorbed, reduce the heat to low and add 3-4 ladles of vegetable broth. Allow this to simmer for 10 minutes, stirring every 3 minutes or so until the liquid is absorbed. Stir in another ladle of broth and wait for it to be fully absorbed by the rice. Repeat this 3 times or until the rice is cooked al dente.

Remove the risotto from the heat. Stir in the remaining 1 tbsp of butter and the grated Parmesan cheese. Pour yourself a large glass of red wine and serve the risotto warm.

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The history behind traditional Easter desserts Wo rd s a n d re c i p e s b y R eb e cc a M a l l i a B u ge j a

E

aster brings with it not only a time of religious reflection for Catholic believers, but also a myriad of sweet delicacies that date back hundreds of years.

It is believed that kwarezimal were introduced in Malta during the reign of the Knights Hospitallers of St. John. They are traditionally baked during Lent and thus one can only find them in the Maltese culinary calendar at this particular time of year. In fact, the name Kwareżimal is derived from the Italian word ‘Quaresima ’which means Lent, and refers to the 40 days of sacrifice associated with the period.

In medieval times, sugar was not restricted during Lent like it usually is nowadays, because it was considered to be a type of ‘spice’ due to its medicinal properties. Back then, it was meat and animal products that were not allowed during this religious period, thus making Kwarezimal naturally vegan and dairy free. These chewy biscuits, packed with loads of flavour are made using ground almonds, oranges, lemons, cocoa and spices - all natural products available at the time.

My recipe uses oats to increase dietary fibre so as to give a healthy twist to this delicious morsel. It also uses 100g less sugar than recommended, thus why it is best to use molasses or dark brown sugar as they increase the flavour and allow for such a reduction to be made. Traditionally chopped almonds are used for the top decoration but personally, I prefer pistacchios as they give a pop of colour and flavour as well as that added crunch.They are quick and easy to make, and can actually be enjoyed any time of year!

Then there is the local favourite, the figolla, which has evolved over the years to become an eleborate art form.

One needs only to walk down a street full of cafes or even enter a small corner shop to be greeted with adverts and

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colourful displays of ‘figolli’. From famous local chefs to home cooks, ‘figolli’ dominate everyone’s social media, homes and shop displays during this time.

The word ‘figolli’ comes from the Sicilian word ‘figurina’.

The earliest documented references of this Easter pastry date back to the second-half of the 18th Century. They were traditionally made during the Holy Week to be gifted to family and friends on Easter Sunday.

The shapes were usually common Christian symbols like fish, baskets, lambs or a cross, however, they evolved to become more commercial, such as cartoon figures, mermaids, cats and various other animals. It is thought that the fish symbolised Jesus Christ, and baskets symbolised fertility. Icing is usually the go-to choice for decoration, with a colourful foil-wrapped egg stuck in the middle, however chocolate is also a popular option nowadays.

In many Maltese families, baking ‘figolli’ is a tradition that brings together at least two to three generations a few days before Easter Sunday, and collaborative baking and decorating ensues amidst boisterous camaraderie. Although there is a basic traditional recipe for the figolla, anyone is free to add their signature to it, and family recipes are usually passed down from one generation to the next.

Personally, I am all for the traditional version with a healthy twist, covered in chocolate and a handful of colourful vermicelli.

What’s the healthy twist? Simple, with the addition of wholemeal flour and oats, the pastry is higher in fibre and thus helps to prevent your blood sugar level from spiking suddenly. Grinding almonds with their skin on also further contributes to the fibre content, whilst adding a stronger earthier and nuttier flavour to the filling.

Photo by Chris Mallia

KWAREŻIMAL INGREDIENTS

For decorations Icing, or white / milk / dark chocolate or even a mixture Food colouring Small foil-wrapped eggs

METHOD

100g plain flour (gluten free if needed) 100g ground oats (gluten free if needed) 200g ground almonds 100g molasses or dark sugar 2 tablespoons dark cocoa powder 1 tsp ground nutmeg 1 tsp ground cloves ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon (increase to 1 tsp if desired) 1 tbs natural vanilla extract Zest of 1 lemon Zest of 1 orange Juice of 1 orange 1 tbs orange blossom water (ilma zahar) 60ml water, approximately Honey and chopped nuts for

1. Preheat the oven to 180oC. 2. Mix all the dry ingredients together.

3. Add the orange blossom water, vanilla extract and juice.

Slowly start to add the water until a soft dough forms.

4. Shape the biscuits into flat logs, roughly 4cm by 10cm and around 2cm thick.

5. Place on a baking tray lined with baking paper and bake for around 25 minutes.

6. Once removed from the oven leave to cool for around an hour and then drizzle with honey and chopped nuts.

METHOD

For the pastry 1.

120g oats flour 200g wholemeal flour 480g self-raising flour 340g block margarine 340g sugar 2.

Zest of 1 lemon 3 eggs 1 tsp natural vanilla essence or ½ tsp synthetic vanilla essence Water For the almond filling 400g almonds (finely ground) 400g sugar ¼ tsp almond essence 2 egg whites Water

INGREDIENTS

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Mix the flour and margarine together. In a mixer, or using your fingertips, rub the margarine into the flour until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs.

Add the sugar, zest, vanilla and eggs and bind together. If needed add water until a dough forms. Lightly knead on a surface free from flour and refrigerate the dough for at least an hour.

Mix the almonds, sugar, essence and egg whites until a paste forms.

If the mixture is too dry add some water until the desired consistency is reached. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. * Preheat the oven at 180°C. Knead the dough lightly on a flour surface, and open the dough until it is around 4mm thick. Cut into the desired shape freehand or using a mould.

Cover the dough shape with almond paste, around 1cm thick.

Cover the base and almond paste with another layer of pastry (also approx 4mm thick).

Bake at 180°C for 20 minutes.

Leave to cool (overnight if possible) and then decorate with chocolate, icing, or both.

FIGOLLI www.gourmettoday.recipes 33

Food on the Go

Five Food Trucks Around the Island b y Te r r e n c e M i f s u d

Food trucks were primarily appealing to factory workers on their way to work, as they grab a cheap bland coffee, a sugar coated ring donut, and plastic-wrapped sandwiches. Nowadays, mobile eateries h a v e e l e v a t e d t h e i r g a m e t r e m e n d o u s l y, p r o d u c i n g s u c c u l e n t d i s h e s , r a n g i n g f ro m g o u r m e t b u rg e r s a n d f re s h l y c a u g h t s e a f o o d t o f i n g e rlicking dessert and smoothies

CHUBBZ BURGER BAR Situated in the city of Naxxar, Chubbz Burger Bar is the epitome of fresh juicy burgers and other fingerlicking food. This eatery also offers curbside pickup, the possibility to order from beforehand so you can skip the queue and head back to the comfort of your own home. Chubbz promises customers an elated experience 34

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with their in-house minced beef, locally baked burger buns, fresh herbs, and home-made sauces. What makes Chubbz stand out from other similar mobile eateries is that the burgers are cooked on a griddle plate, only seasoned with sea salt and black pepper so not to take away from the flavours crammed in the meats itself.

EAT

FUEL & CO

If you’re a lover of American-style food, smoked meats, and delicious barbecue dishes, EAT may be the right mobile eatery for you. It operates from two main locations, Mosta and Pembroke, offering customers a range of chunky and exquisite meats, from the Philly cheese steak, to the popular smoked beef brisket. Simply a must-try.

The mission of this food truck is to energise customers and offer nutritious yet delicious food options. The restaurant is located in the heart of Mosta, while their newly established mobile eatery is based at the Sliema Ferries, serving acai bowls, wraps, salads, brunch options, guilt-free delicacies, and all kinds of shakes.

Their menu also caters for vegetarians and vegans.

BANH MI

KREPREE

For authentic and homemade Asian Street Food, particularly Vietnamese, this is the place to go.

Great food aside, the owners of this food truck that is located in Santa Venera also promise to keep a ‘healthy and environmentally conscious mind’ when preparing these dishes, making use of local and fresh produce. This venture is run by Chef Jeremy Borg Tran and his wife Emily, becoming the first street food of this kind in Malta, back when they opened in summer of 2018.

Who can say no to mouth-watering crepes, luscious shakes, and other sides and bites? Krepree initially started their culinary journey from a homey parlour in Bugibba. As they branched out to a couple of food trucks around the island from Sliema all the way to Qormi and Mosta, the original pancake parlour strives to maintain their reputation by making their iconic sweet and savoury crepes with fresh and top-quality ingredients.

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the

veg

corn RECIPES & PHOTOGRAPHY

BY DANIEL PISANI FROM @LIFEOFMARROW 36

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an

er

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BROAD BEAN HUMMUS INGREDIENTS 400g broad beans (peeled) 2 tbsp tahini 1 tsp cumin 2 fresh garlic ends Juice of half a lemon 5 tbsp olive oil Salt to taste

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METHOD 1.

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5.

Start by sauteing the garlic in a pan.

Toss the broad beans and cook on low heat until soft (approx. 20min) Let the beans cool down for a few minutes before placing them in your food processor together with the rest of the ingredients.

Blend to achieve a smooth consistency.

Add the broad bean hummus to a wrap together with some roast veg, couscous and lettuce or simply use as a dip!

METHOD 1. Start by chopping the figs and the dates.

2. Place all the soaking mixture ingredients in an airtight container for at least 24 hours. This step allows the dried fruit to soak up the spices, alcohol and orange water and intensifies the flavour of the final result. You may also leave the mixture for longer but make sure to add more alcohol daily as this acts as a preservative.

3. Line a tin with a layer of aluminium foil and a layer of parchment paper on top of it.

4. In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients.

5. Tip the mixture into the prepared tin, pushing it METHOD down and levelling the top.

6. nuts Place the cake ontothe 1.

Start by toasting the pine then allow them coollowest shelf of the oven preheated to 140º C and bake for 2 hours or until down. toothpick, 2.

Chop the fresh garlic finelyaand sauté for ainserted couple of into the centre of the cake, comes out clean. minutes with olive oil.

FRESH GARLIC PESTO INGREDIENTS 400g fresh garlic cleaned and with most of the green part 100g pine nuts 4 tbsp nutritional yeast (or favourite cheese replacement) Half a cup of olive oil Juice of one lemon 10 sundried tomatoes Salt and pepper to taste

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4.

5.

Allow the garlic to cool down before placing all the ingredients in a food processor.

Blend to form a sauce – adding water if needed.

Add to your favourite pasta with some chopped sundried tomatoes and fresh garlic ends.

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SWISS CHARD TART INGREDIENTS 800g rainbow chard 400ml plant-based crème (I used a cashew based one) 5 tbsp nutritional yeast 1 tsp herbs de’ province 400g plain tofu (or ricotta) 300g common mushrooms 2 onions 3 fresh garlic ends Juice of half a lemon Salt and pepper to taste For the pastry 500 g white flour 250 ml water 5 tbsp olive oil ½ tsp sea salt

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The pastry

METHOD 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

Start by finely chopping the rainbow chard, mushrooms, onion and garlic Sauté the onion and garlic in some oil Toss the mushrooms followed by the chard and sauté until they have wilted Crumble the tofu into ricotta like pieces and toss in the pan Add all the remaining ingredients, the crème, nutritional yeast, herbs, lemon juice, salt and pepper Stir continuously for around 30 minutes Let the mixture cool down

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In a mixing bowl, sift the flour and salt.

With a wooden spoon, mix in the olive oil.

Slowly and gently, add the water whilst mixing the dough with the spoon.

Once combined – allow the dough to rest for around an hour – covered with a damp cloth.

Sprinkle some flour on your work surface and roll out enough dough to line the base of your tart or pie dish Cook the tart in a preheated oven at 200 ⁰C for 45-60 minutes

An Authentic Italian Experience

www.donroyalerestaurant.com

AJ

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Ix-Xatt ta’ San Gorg, San Giljan Contact Number: +356 79527007

AJ

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