Jewellery Focus May 2012 by Designed by Arthouse Publishing

May 2012 www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk £5.95 ISSN 2046-7265

FOCUS

First impressions count: Interiors and displays to impress your customers Showcasing the latest in CAD/CAM software, services and intricate jewellery designs

Why more retailers should cater to the modern-day demand for body jewellery

May 2012

Jewellery FOCUS

CONTENTS

Jewellery FOCUS

May 2012 Inspiring interiors

Louise Hoffman takes a look at some of the shopfitting and display services that are available for those looking to refresh their stores this spring

Skin deep

Love them or loathe them, piercings are more popular than ever. So why are so few jewellers actively catering to the demand for body jewellery? Louise Hoffman investigates

Focus on friendship bracelets

Naida Ally explores the colourful world of friendship and ‘disco ball’ bracelets, which have attracted a celebrity following

Design focus

Naida Ally speaks to Lilian Lousky, designer at Tresor Paris

Computerised design

Michael Northcott discovers some of the latest examples of CAD/CAM technology, and jewellery designs that have been created by using the software

Going the extra mile

30 54

As a case study for best practice, Joe Walsh outlines the approach that Laings of Glasgow has taken in ensuring its customer service offering stands out from the crowd

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE Editor’s letter

Roundup 8 The latest news from the industry

Face to a name

Get acquainted with new and existing industry representatives

Janet Fitch

17 20

With her creative mind focused on texture, handfinishing and individuality, Janet presents us with a selection of recent jewellery discoveries

Watch focus

Trends in timepieces

Luxury jewellery

Taking stock

Syreeta Tranfield

A day at the Office

Aspirational jewellery designs Syreeta speaks to two representatives of men’s fashion, to get the lowdown on current trends and advice on how to sell to the male consumer

New offerings from the industry The Birmingham Assay Office kicks off a new series of articles, focusing on the many challenges that its staff members face each day, and how those challenges are overcome

Selling 48 Moving onwards through the circle of the sale, Brad Huisken turns his attention to the most important part of the process – assessment of customers’ needs

Industry data

Voice on the highstreet

Prices, figures and outlook Sabrina Burley, sales manager, CRED Jewellery

editor's letter

Editor’s letter I

t could just be because spring has arrived, bringing with it the change in outlook that sunny days, flowers in bloom and general frondescence can induce; but I detect a definite renewed optimism emanating from the industry. On a recent visit to a sun-drenched Hatton Garden, I enjoyed several positive meetings, and was also given a special tour of the new Holts Academy premises. Though I was informed that it was relatively quiet that day, the place was still a hive of activity, with students gathered around tutorial benches watching demonstrations, engaged in CAD/CAM training, or working on their latest creations. It was exciting to think that some of them may grace the pages of this very magazine in the future, having gained new skills and developed their own unique styles, thanks to Holts Academy tutors such as Arabel Lebrusan, whom I was finally able to meet face-to-face! I also spent time with designer Bobby White and his business partner George Neal, who were animated with enthusiasm about Bobby’s new collection – Star Cross’d Lovers (find out more in Jewellery Focus next month!). Their excitement was certainly infectious, and added to the positive sentiment I was left with at the end of a fruitful day. Many thanks also to Lindsey Straughton of the BJA for such excellent company! This month’s magazine therefore contains a wealth of ideas for those of you who are looking to blow the cobwebs away, and to spring clean your businesses – from new stock inspiration, including a selection of friendship bracelet designs; to suggestions for adding value to your customer service offering, courtesy of Laings of Glasgow; to shop interior and display inspiration. Here’s hoping that this new season is indeed signalling a new era – or at least a step towards it.

Jewellery FOCUS

Editor Louise Hoffman louise@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Editorial Assistant Naida Ally naida@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Design/Production Editor Tracy Jarvis tracy@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Deputy Production Editor Lewis Bowes copy@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Online Editor Michael Northcott michael@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Group Advertisement Manager Kelly Smith kelly@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Deputy Group Advertisement Manager Julie-Ann Kwok julie@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Senior Sales Executives Duncan Robinson duncan@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Michele Rogers michele@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Sales Executive Cally Harrison cally@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Accounts Maureen Scrivener accounts@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Customer Services 01206 767 797 customers@mulberrypublications.co.uk

Contributing writers:

Brad Huisken, Diana Donnelly, Janet Fitch, Joe Walsh, Syreeta Tranfield

In support of:

This month’s cover features JN Jewellery Ltd

JN Jewellery Ltd, a Hatton Garden based jewellery manufacturer and importer, is delighted to announce the publication of its new Silver Collection catalogue. The new catalogue will complement the JN Jewellery Gold Collection and the JN Jewellery Diamond Collection catalogues. “As you would expect from JN Jewellery, the service is fast, efficient and really friendly, with most orders dispatched the same day,” says the company. For a free copy of any of the catalogues please contact JN Jewellery using the details below, or collect a copy from the trade showroom (for security reasons please call in advance) at JN Jewellery Ltd, 27 Greville Street, London EC1N 8SU. Information: 0207 405 1842, sales@jnjewellery.com or fax 0800 008 6685

May 2012

Jewellery Focus ISSN 2046-7265 is published monthly by:

Mulberry Publications Ltd, Wellington House, Butt Road, Colchester CO3 3DA Tel: 01206 767 797 Fax: 01206 767 532 www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk

The editor and publishers do not guarantee the accuracy of statements made by contributors or advertisers, or accept responsibility for any statement that they express in this publication. The opinion of the contributors may not necessarily be the opinion of the publishers. Articles are considered for publication on the basis that they are the author’s original work. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the permission of the publishers.

Jewellery FOCUS

ROUNDUP

And briefly Franklyns’ jeweller pedals for pounds

Richard Franklyn of Franklyns Jewellers and Goldsmiths Ltd in Halifax, West Yorkshire, is taking part in a charity bike ride with Pedal for Pounds 3, in aid of the Huddersfield Town FC Keep It Up Campaign and the Yorkshire Air Ambulance. The ride will begin at Huish Park in Yeovil on Wednesday 2 May, with cyclists pedalling 260 miles back to Huddersfield in time for the final League 1 home fixture of the season against the Glovers on Saturday 5 May 2012. For every £1 raised through Keep It Up, 50 pence goes to the Yorkshire Air Ambulance and the other 50 pence goes to the Club’s Academy and local community projects. If you would like to donate please go to www.justgiving.com/ richard-franklyn

New London store for Tateossian boutique

Retailer Tateossian has opened its fifth standalone store in Chelsea Harbour, London. The outlet, in Imperial Wharf, will be known as the Workshop Boutique. CEO for Tateossian, Robert Tateossian, said: “This new store comes with a unique concept: it’s our first Tateossian Workshop Boutique where customers will be able to get custom-made pieces designed and also find exclusive one-off pieces only available at Imperial Wharf.” Tateossian jewellery is popular in celebrity circles, having been sported by David Furnish, Eva Herzigova, Naomi Campbell, Tracey Emin, Neve Campbell, Natasha Bedingfield, David Gandy, Jenson Button and Sophie Dahl.

New Designers show 2012

The cream of the crop of this year’s design graduates will unveil their talent at the New Designers show at the British Design Centre. The presentation is a two-part event introducing the very latest ideas and emerging trends across a host of design disciplines. Part one displays contemporary applied art – ceramics and glass, jewellery and metal work alongside directional textiles, fashions and home accessories. Fresh ideas for furniture and spatial design, including interiors and architecture, are juxtaposed with innovative product design in part two. Also taking place is One Year On, which features 50 designers and makers who have established their own business in the past year. Part one takes place from the 27 to 30 June, and Part two from the 4 to 7 July. Jewellery Focus readers are entitled to a saving of over 25 per cent on the price on the door – just quote ND120 when booking advance tickets via www.newdesigners.com or by calling 0844 848 0140.

Importer highlights pearl production crisis

Raw Pearls has highlighted a shortfall in Far East pearl production after recent storms and natural disasters. In a recent buying trip, the supplier discovered pearl farmers’ production capacity has suffered as a result of storms in the region and Japan’s 2010 Tohoku tsunami. Oyster production is essential before the culturing process which creates the pearls can begin, and production can require around three to five years of front-end investment. An industry insider said: “The result is a lack of confidence on behalf of the farmers, many of whom have reduced production or made investments elsewhere; property being a common option.”

May 2012

Four months to go for IJL 2012 Already 77 per cent booked with four months to go, International Jewellery London (IJL) has announced that Dinny Hall, whose fan base includes Kate Winslet, Alexa Chung and Samantha Cameron, will be exhibiting. Dinnie will join a line-up featuring a host of designers and brands, such as Amara Amara, Alexis Dove, Richard Hans Becker, Nada G, Daisy Knights, Sequel UK (Guess) and Bering Time Ltd. “There is so much excitement building ahead of the 2012 show, from exhibitors, the IJL team, and also retailers, buyers and IJL Diamond Club members. Our seminar programme is going to be better than ever, with a strong focus on quality content, featuring industry experts and top trend forecasters. IJL provides a platform for international jewellery and watch companies who are coming to exhibit and VIP international visitors will be hosted by the Diamond Club for the first time this year,” said event director Syreeta Tranfield. Brand new British designers will International Jewellery Show 2011 also be launched at the Earls Court event, taking place from 2 to 5 September, thanks to the popular KickStart and Bright Young Gem initiatives, which provide inspiration, brand new concepts and never-before-seen collections for buyers attending the show. Registration is now open for the 2012 show and there is also a chance to win an IJL VIP experience for two so you can visit in style. For information visit www.jewellerylondon.com/vip

GE Capital provides Brown & Newirth with finance package

GE Capital has announced that it will provide a £2.5 million financing facility to Hertfordshire-based Brown & Newirth, to support the company’s future growth plans. Following a management buyout in February, the company identified a “significant future growth potential.” GE Capital will provide a finance package worth £2.5 million, which will be used to provide working capital to allow the company to realise its growth plans. John Savage, regional director of GE Capital UK, commented: “We are delighted to be working with Brown & Newirth to support it in the next stage of its development. The working capital that we can provide will help the company achieve its true growth potential and reinforce its position as a leading British jewellery brand.” John Ball, sales director at Brown & Newirth, added: “To support our growth plans, we needed a partner who understood the potential of our business. GE Capital took the time to understand that potential and worked with us to find a solution that met all of our needs.” Established in 1967, Brown & Newirth is a designer, manufacturer and supplier of handmade wedding, engagement and eternity rings.

Jewellery FOCUS

ROUNDUP

Allum & Sidaway opens new flagship premises in Hampshire

Celebrity endorsement

Jewellery retailer Allum & Sidaway has announced the official opening of its new flagship store. The store in Ringwood, Hampshire, was launched on 16 March by the jeweller, which is a member of the National Association of Goldsmiths and the Company of Master Jewellers. The new location is just two doors down from its original premises on the High Street, and the move comes amid 70th anniversary celebrations. Allum & Sidaway said in a statement: “This distinctive new store offers an impressive array of the hottest brands, such as Pandora, Trollbeads, Thomas Sabo, Links of London, and a further area dedicated to luxury jewellery, diamonds and watch brands such as Mastercut Diamonds and Raymond Weil, with further exclusive brands in the pipeline. It also features an exquisite private viewing area.” The retailer’s managing director, Jason Allum, said: “We are incredibly excited about this new store and the new space it gives us. Our opening exceeded all expectations and we were overjoyed by the wonderful comments made by customers and visitors alike. “We look forward to welcoming many more new and existing customers to our new showroom. This store marks our expansion as a company and we hope it will be the pride of this unique county town.”

Lord Mayor launches prospectus for Jewellery Quarter BID

Birmingham’s Lord Mayor has helped to unveil a ‘treasured’ document for the Jewellery Quarter – the prospectus for the Jewellery Quarter Business Improvement District (JQ BID). The Jewellery Quarter Development Trust (JQDT), which is leading the BID in conjunction with Birmingham City Council, welcomed local business owners, stakeholders and council dignitaries to a launch event to mark the start of the ballot process. The JQ BID aims to attract investment, increase visitor numbers and encourage a more vibrant economy, while making the area a better place in which to work, invest and live. Around 550 local businesses are being asked to vote to support the initiative, which will see businesses with premises with a rateable value of £10,000 or above pay an extra annual levy of two per cent to fund additional investment for the benefit of the whole area. Over the past six months the JQDT has hosted a series of consultation meetings and a ‘drop-in day’ to enable business owners and potential levy payers to find out more. Dave Mahony, chair of the JQDT and managing director of PCPT Architects in Spencer Street, said: “We were delighted that the Lord Mayor, members of the City Council and local business owners attended the launch event to show their support for the BID. “If ever an area was tailor-made for a BID it is the Jewellery Quarter, with its unique blend of business and heritage, manufacturing, private investment and ownerships and its skilled, creative people who take great pride in the place. The JQDT is determined to succeed in getting a positive BID outcome for the area.” Following the launch event, which was hosted by University College Birmingham, the prospectus will now be distributed to all businesses in the Quarter with a rateable value of £10,000 or above. The ballot – managed and organised by an independent organisation, the Electoral Reform Society – started on 17 April for a duration Image: (Left to right) Dave Mahony, chair of the JQDT; the Lord Mayor of of five weeks. Birmingham, Anita Ward; and Cllr Tim Huxtable

Jewellery FOCUS

Paris Hilton spotted in Tresor Paris

Heiress Paris Hilton was spotted at Bondi Beach, Australia, sporting two signature Tresor Paris bracelets – Cannes and Triumph. Cannes consists of nine gold crystal spheres, hand finished with magnetite. Paris paired her gold crystal Cannes bracelet with the gold and white crystal Triumph bracelet, made of five white and four gold crystal spheres and held together with Tibetan cord.

May 2012

ROUNDUP

Diamond market

Early March saw diamond markets stable with good demand from the United States. The RapNet Diamond Index (RAPI) for one carat of polished diamond fell 1.8 per cent to 94.18 in February. ALROSA’s diamond sales were up 21 per cent to $694 million (£434 million) in January to February. Belgium’s polished exports in February were up four per cent to $1.4 billion (£0.87 million), while rough imports saw a rise of two per cent to $1.1 billion (£0.68 million). Mid-March saw a reasonable amount of activity at Baselworld. The January polished imports in the United States were down five per cent to $1.5 billion (£0.93 million), and polished exports were down seven per cent to $1.2 billion (£0.75 million). India’s polished trade fell in February, with exports down 54 per cent to $1.4 billion (£0.87 million) and imports down 80 per cent to $476 million (£298 million), while rough imports were up 21 per cent to $1.3 billion (£0.81 billion). US retail demand was reportedly stable. Tiffany & Co’s fourth quarter revenue was up by eight per cent to $1.2 billion (£0.75 billion), while net earnings were down by two per cent to $178 million (£111 million). Signet Jewelers’ fourth quarter revenue was up seven per cent to $1.4 billion (£0.87 billion), and net income up 49 per cent to $157 million (£98.3 million). Gem Diamonds’ 2011 revenue was up 49 per cent to $396 million (£248 million), with net profit up 235 per cent to $68 million (£42.5 million). The EU also extended sanctions on Zimbabwe’s Marange diamonds to February 2013, and the end of March saw polished markets quiet but prices strong. Source: Rapaport TradeWire

Images: Monnickendam Diamonds

May 2012

Domino wins third prize in bridal category at Platinum Design Awards

British fine jewellery manufacturer Domino has scooped third prize in the Bridal Jewellery (innovative design) category at the Platinum Design Awards competition, organised by Platinum Guild International (PGI) and taking place at Baselworld 2012. Nearly 30 manufacturers exhibiting at Baselworld took part in the competition, which was judged by a panel of 50 international journalists visiting the show. Just three of the entrants were from the UK, and Domino was the only British firm to win a prize, for its ‘Flow’ collection in platinum and diamonds. Managing director of Domino, Andrew Morton, said: “We are absolutely delighted to have been recognised in such an illustrious award. Our platinum bridal ranges are an important part of our business and it is good to have acknowledgement that our designs are among the most innovative in Europe. It is a great tribute to our in-house design and production teams,” he said.

NAG calls for action on Portas Review

In advance of the spring deadline for the Government’s response to Mary Portas’s proposals, the NAG convened a forum to discuss the ramifications of the report and to approve its adoption. The event, held at the newly opened Goldsmiths’ Centre in Clerkenwell, was addressed by three industry experts who gave their perspectives on Portas’s 28-point plan. Tracing the decline of the high street, Mike McGraw of Development Initiatives commended many of the proposed remedial actions, including Business Improvement Districts (BIDS) and business mentoring schemes; Chris Wade, chief executive of Action for Market Towns, viewed the report in the broader context of town centre regeneration, commending the ‘town centre first’ proposals; and, putting a practical slant on the implementation process, Jayant Raniga of Pure Jewels described the achievements of the Green Street Association, while calling particularly for a review of the ‘Use Class’ system relating to betting shops and other operators. All three welcomed the concept of Town Teams to establish high street brand values, but feared the Government’s bidding competition for 12 towns to share a million pound development pot was little more than a distraction from the serious proposals in Mary Portas’s report. NAG chief executive Michael Hoare related his own ‘wish list’, which contained “a restoration of the link between business rates and local services; a fair and transparent planning regime; and meaningful power in the hands of local government.” Furthermore, “a robust ‘town centre first’ planning policy is to be welcomed, because, as it stands, about 80 per cent of future development is planned for out-of-town developments. Business rates are one of the biggest barriers to business entry and growth on the high street, and therefore the Portas proposals are to be applauded; but the challenge will be for government and councils to find suitable funding models. Similarly, more free parking is a laudable aim, with plugging the gap in council finances the potential stumbling block!” Summing up contributions from the 50 or so delegates present, NAG chairman Nicholas Major reflected that it would be “shameful to waste the energy building around high street regeneration,” and urged the Government not to take the easy option and dismiss Portas’s more radical suggestions out of hand.

Jeweller to auction bespoke ring

A Reading jewellery designer has produced a bespoke diamond ring, which will be auctioned to raise money for children displaced and orphaned by Japan’s 2011 Tohoku tsunami. The piece, named the Diamond Tsunami Ring, is made from palladium and a range of coloured diamonds. The jeweller, Paul Draper, created the design from scratch, and enlisted the help of others in the trade to complete the project. He said: “One doesn’t have to look far these days to see how inventive people have become with their money-raising activities and it’s left me thinking that maybe I could do and give more if I only changed my tack and put in some effort.” The inscription on the inside of the ring reads ‘Tohoku Earthquake and Tsunami – 14.46 (JST) Fri 11th March 2011’. The ring will be sold via eBay’s Special Auction, on a date yet to be confirmed.

Jewellery FOCUS

May 2012

ROUNDUP

And briefly Retailers welcome minimum wage increase

The British Retail Consortium (BRC) recently welcomed the 1.8 per cent increase in the adult National Minimum Wage. However, it speculates that freezing the youth rate will make only a marginal difference to the retail sector. Reacting to the announcement, BRC director general Stephen Robertson said: “The Government has made a thoroughly wise decision. As the largest private sector employer, retail recognises its vital role in providing much-needed employment. Over 98 per cent of people working for our members are paid more than the minimum wage, but this is the right move in the current economic conditions. This sensible increase shows appropriate restraint at a time of falling inflation and rising unemployment. One-point-eight per cent is within the limits the BRC’s evidence showed would allow retailers to create and maintain jobs. Any larger increase would have piled extra pressure on retailers at a time of weak customer demand.”

Motorbikes for motor neurone disease

Simon Cupitt, who runs Cupitt Jewellers in Bromsgrove, was dealt a blow at the end of last year when he was diagnosed with motor neurone disease (MND) – a rare group of neurological disorders that affects the cells that control voluntary muscle activity including speaking, walking, breathing, swallowing and general movement of the body. Last month, Simon and a group of close friends embarked on a trip that was one of Simon’s life goals: to undertake a charity motorbike ride from John O’Groats to Land’s End. BMW pledged its support by providing Simon’s bike, which assisted him with the five-day journey, from the 21 to 26 of March. The team as a whole aimed to raise money for the Motor Neurone Disease Association and for Simon’s family, to help them equip themselves to adapt to Simon’s ever changing needs. To donate to the Motor Neurone Disease Association, visit Simon’s JustGiving page at www.justgiving.com/SimonCupitt-transUK

WGC unveils draft of ConflictFree Gold Standard

The World Gold Council (WGC) recently unveiled an ‘exposure draft’ for its Conflict-Free Gold Standard, nine months after a first draft was published for scrutiny. The new standard, which is currently in ‘exposure draft’ form, aims to ensure that gold produced under its guidelines does not fuel armed conflict, fund armed groups or contribute to human rights abuses. The standard has been developed in close collaboration with WGC members, who have approved and agreed the exposure draft and are committed to implementing the final standard once available. In a statement, the Council said: “This reinforces our members’ commitment to the development of a truly sustainable gold mining industry.”

Amendment Please note that the images which appeared in the RJC interview last month on pages 16 and 17 should have been credited to Paul Hartley Studios.

May 2012

Research findings confirm positivity in the bridal sector

Research carried out by award-winning contemporary British jeweller Nicholas James has revealed that consumer confidence in purchasing the right engagement ring has not been affected by the recession. The survey, carried out earlier this year among a mixture of men and women, found that a significant 78 per cent would spend upwards of £2,000 on the right ring (with 20 per cent of these happy to spend over £4,000). Interestingly, this correlated with the sums spent by couples who had already purchased the ring. Sixty-seven per cent of those also admitted to having exceeded their initial budget, echoing the findings of comparative studies in confirming that some romantic couples are willing to increase their budget once they start shopping around, rather than compromise. “This is in stark contrast to other research which shows that overall wedding spend has dropped in the last three years (figures vary but are as high as 25 per cent),” reported Nicholas James. While economising might be popular for some purchases, the couples interviewed were largely adamant that they wouldn’t be willing to do this for the engagement ring. A tiny seven per cent said they would be willing, and for the remainder, there were a variety of solutions: almost a quarter were willing to extend the engagement period; 19 per cent would use their credit card; and an impressive 37 per cent would economise on living costs. Nick Fitch, the creative force behind Nicholas James in Hatton Garden, commented: “We commissioned this research to confirm what I suspected – that consumers view the engagement (and wedding rings) as both important lifelong purchases and financial investments. Customers coming to my store are also more educated than ever before about the quality of stones and the importance of metal choice.”

W Hamond collaborates with English Heritage

British jeweller W Hamond has announced that it has teamed up with English Heritage to supply British-made, hand-crafted Whitby Jet jewellery to its customers. The collection of Whitby Jet and sterling silver is available on the English Heritage website shop and is also in gift shops at Whitby Abbey and Queen Victoria’s country retreat, the Isle of Wight’s Osborne House. In a statement, CW Sellors, presenting W Hamond’s range, said the patriotic values of English Heritage are “very much echoed in W Hamond’s ethics, working with British products right here in the UK to promote and educate the fantastic legacy found around us.” English Heritage’s buyer, Stella Barritt, said: “CW Sellors… is still designing and manufacturing in the UK, which is becoming increasingly rare these days. The fact that they use indigenous British gemstones with great craftsmanship is a winning combination.” “It was vital that we hand selected the pieces which appeal to English Heritage’s customer base, and we are currently working on other projects with them to progress this relationship further,” added W Hamond’s sales manager, Andrew Mills.

Antwerp Diamond Academy to be launched this month The Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC) is to launch its first Antwerp Diamond Academy, a series of workshops and seminars, on 6 May, with businessman Sir Richard Branson as guest of honour. The study sessions will be organised by the AWDC for diamond industry members on a regular basis, and the topics are determined by the specific needs of the industry (such as international trade, compliance, finance, and sales). The first edition will look at innovation. “These academies are targeted directly at the Antwerp diamond companies,” the AWDC said in a statement. “Our goal is to provide them with hands-on knowledge and tools to enhance their position in an increasingly competitive business. “During an interactive panel discussion, Richard Branson will share his very own recipe for success with the audience,” the AWDC added.

Jewellery FOCUS

May 2012

ROUNDUP

Celebrity endorsement

Cara Delavigne wears Daisy Jewellery Model and actress Cara Delavigne was spotted in Daisy jewellery twice in the space of a fortnight – at both the premiere of A Dangerous Method, and also at a charity dinner during Paris Fashion Week. Her bracelet of choice was the 24 carat gold vermeil Throat Chakra, which “balances the elements of communication, resonance and creativity,” as described by Maya Claughton, creative director of Daisy Jewellery.

Lapponia Jewelry chooses recycled gold

Finnish jewellery brand Lapponia Jewelry has redesigned its supply chain to guarantee the use of 100 per cent recycled gold in its jewellery production. Together with its sister company Kalevala Jewelry, the company ran a two-year project to investigate ethical alternatives for sourcing gold. The firm settled on recycled gold as being the most ethical and ecologically sustainable alternative to mining. In response to the new strategic direction, Lapponia’s gold supplier has developed its quality management system and now claims that all gold raw material delivered to Lapponia Jewelry is recycled. Helsinki, where Lapponia Jewelry is based, has been chosen as the World Design Capital for 2012 in recognition of its design and handcraft heritage. The firm said in a statement: “As the next responsible step – and for the added benefit of consumers – Lapponia Jewelry will, in April 2012, adopt the GIA [Gemological Institute of America] standards for communicating and verifying the value of the diamonds used in each piece of Lapponia diamond jewellery according to the highest international standards.”

Tatty Devine launches new app

British brand Tatty Devine has launched its first digital shopping app for smartphones and tablets, offering customers on-the-move access to its online store, news and information about its London-based shops. “This is a really exciting development for us. We have such a large online community and Twitter fan base that we wanted to give them instant access to the latest designs, sales and news,” commented co-founder Rosie Wolfenden. Users of the app will have a variety of shopping privileges, including access to sample sales and the ability to browse its jewellery collections. They will also be able to locate its stores. The launch, which was timed to coincide with the launch of the brand’s new Seahorse collection, also includes a feature in which users can design their own Perspex name necklace, which is one of the brand’s most iconic designs.

De Beers chairman honoured by WDC

And briefly London to Paris bike ride to raise money for Cornerstone

Cornerstone, the recently launched silver collection by UK designer Paul Spurgeon and South African born Nqobile Nkosi, has announced that its London to Paris bike ride will take place between 15 and 19 August. The jewellery brand, launched at the Jewellery Show in February, has been generating support from the jewellery industry and the bike ride is intended to raise further funds for the project. Everyone is invited to take part, whether by participating in the bike ride itself or by making a donation to the event. The proceeds from Cornerstone, which is being sold in both the UK and South Africa, will go towards helping Nkosi and his expanding team in Soweto and Makapanstad in South Africa to support themselves and others by making and selling jewellery. The Jewellery Show London has also named Cornerstone as its social enterprise partner for the event.

May 2012

Nicky Oppenheimer, chairman of the De Beers Group, will be honoured at the Gala Dinner of the World Diamond Council (WDC) on 14 May, during its eighth annual meeting in Vicenza, Italy, “in recognition of his considerable contribution to the industry’s effort to eradicate the trade in conflict diamonds.” Eli Izhakoff, president of the WDC, said: “It is difficult to imagine where we would be today were it not for the role played by Nicky Oppenheimer and De Beers, right from the very birth of our organisation. “Not only was he among the first industry leaders who understood and appreciated the implications of the conflict diamond trade, and consequently sounded the rallying cry, but over the years he has been one of our most important and enthusiastic supporters, and has participated in numerous WDC meetings. He was a staunch advocate of the Kimberley Process from the beginning.”

Dates for your diary... 12 – 13 June

The Jewellery Show Somerset House, London www.thejewelleryshowlondon.com

15 – 17 June

Holborn: Cockpit Arts Summer Open Studios 2012 Cockpit Yard, Northington St, London www.cockpitarts.com

30– 24 June31 22

Deptford: Cockpit Arts Summer Open Studios 2012 18-22 Creekside, London

www.cockpitarts.com

27 – 30 June

3 2 – 5 September

New Designers 2012: Part 1 Business Design Centre, Islington www.newdesigners.com

2 – 5 September

Autumn Fair International NEC, Birmingham www.autumnfair.com

International Jewellery London Earls Court 2, London www.jewellerylondon.com

Jewellery FOCUS

May 2012

Jewellery FOCUS

face to a name

Face to a name Get acquainted with new and existing industry representatives

John Lunn to become new MD of Lunn’s in Northern Ireland

Lunn’s has appointed John Lunn as its new managing director, the third generation of the family to take on the leadership of the business since its foundation in 1954. The former managing director, Peter Lunn, becomes executive chairman of the board, and John’s sister, Suzanne Lunn, becomes marketing director. John Lunn, 30, is a graduate in Business and Spanish from Sheffield University and has spent his career in the jewellery business, having worked as an intern for Cartier in Madrid and for two years as a junior specialist and cataloguer in the Christie’s fine jewellery department in London, as well as having played many roles within Lunn’s. John is also a graduate of the Gemological Institute of America in Carlsbad, California. He said: “It is a privilege and an honour to take on the leadership of this great company and I’m looking forward to moving Lunn’s ahead in a progressive and innovative way. I know that I have the support and combined experience of the entire team to assist me and, whilst the trading environment is difficult at the moment, I’m confident we have the products and the relationships that will continue to drive the business forward for generations to come.”

Beaverbrooks’ new CEO sets out his vision for the future

Jewellery and watch retailer Beaverbrooks has announced the appointment of a new chief executive officer, to take the brand forward into a new era of customer service. Daniel Brown, former operations director at 64-store Beaverbrooks, and a fourthgeneration member of the Beaverbrooks family, has taken over as CEO, while thirdgeneration family member Mark Adlestone has now moved from managing director to the position of chairman. Previous chairman Andrew Brown remains as a director, as does Mark’s father, Gerald. Daniel has now begun to set out an ambitious vision to turn Beaverbrooks into one of the country’s most compelling retail experiences for consumers. “We’re now going through the biggest cultural change we’ve seen yet for our business and our brand. We want to completely change consumers’ experience of shopping at Beaverbrooks,” he explained. “Our target is simple: by 2020, we will have created a world-class shopping experience, which is not just about shopping there and then, but about the contact after that and an on-going story where Beaverbrooks becomes part of our customers’ lives.”

Gemvision Europe makes further staff announcements

Gary Baines (pictured), managing director of Gemvision Europe, is to join parent company North America based DTC Sightholder Stuller as executive director of product design and development. The company says that the move will enable Gemvision to provide continuous development of its innovative technology and customised digital solutions for the UK jewellery industry. Gemvision formed a strategic partnership with Stuller in 2009, with the aim of enhancing customisation tools for retail jewellers. The partnership produced CounterSketch Studio, a 3D jewellery design platform that allows retailers to work together with customers to design their own uniquely personalised jewellery. The new structure within Gemvision Europe’s UK operation sees Graham Dicks move up to sales manager at its Leeds base. He takes charge of its eight-strong team, having joined the company three years ago after 10 years in jewellery retailing and 20 years in sales and marketing for major UK manufacturers. Meanwhile, Norman Matthews take greater responsibility under his role as Gemvision Europe manager of finance and administration.

Jewellery FOCUS

May 2012

face to a name

Three minute

interview

Ted Pilecki,

owner of Mode360 Ltd Describe yourself in three words

Creative, modern and open-minded.

Tell us about your company...

My company’s aim is to offer customers the highest quality photographic solutions to profitable product promotion and presentation online. Mode360° brand provides highly professional quality pack shots and 360 degree product presentations at a reasonably low cost. The beauty of Mode360° machines is that product images and rotations can be simply uploaded to websites, allowing customers to view a product from every single angle before buying.

How did the company come to be established?

I started Mode360 last year. I came across the machines while researching options for my 20-year-old jewellery business, the Amber Centre. When I saw a gap in the market to provide high quality photography without using any extra professional services, I knew it was time to set up the company.

What does your typical day involve?

Every day is different, as I get involved in all aspects of the business. I have a very talented and hardworking team of people supporting the company, which means that every day brings fantastic new ideas.

Which aspects of your job do you most enjoy and why?

I most enjoy researching new ways to invest in the business and in the development of my staff, as by constantly raising standards across the board, I am able to provide the most professional experience to the customers.

What is your proudest achievement?

That I have been the one to bring such revolutionary machines to market here in the UK.

What is the best advice you’ve been given in life or work?

The best advice I’ve been given is: never give up.

May 2012

Change in leadership for Chopard

After over 12 years of close collaboration, and having reached the age of 65, managing director Chris Proffitt has decided to take his retirement at the end of this year. “The Scheufele family is proud to have employed him as representative of Chopard in the UK and sincerely thanks him for his precious contribution. We wish Mr Proffitt the greatest happiness and good health for the future,” said a statement from the company. Jean Baptiste Maillard (pictured), who joined the company’s London office in 2007, has also been announced as his successor. “Mr Maillard has acquired a broad and solid knowledge of our brand and industry. We are delighted that he has accepted the challenge of driving our business forward as managing director of the company as of 1 January 2013.”

CARAT* appoints new wholesale director for the UK

Luxury fashion jewellery company CARAT* is expanding its UK office and has appointed Asal Rahmani as the new UK wholesale director. Asal has over 14 years of experience in the jewellery industry, both within retail and wholesale, having worked for the likes of Thomas Sabo UK, Beaverbrooks, Goldsmiths and the Swatch Group. “CARAT* has been a company that I have eagerly watched grow here in the UK, and I am delighted to now be part of this dynamic team. My new role will be focused on creating and increasing the wholesale opportunities for the brand across the UK,” she said. Founder Scott Thompson added: “We are delighted that our stores and concessions across the UK are going from strength to strength. We see further growth potential for CARAT* through expanding our current wholesale offering. With Asal’s experience and through her recent appointment, we are looking positively to CARAT*’s growth during 2012 and beyond.” Asal Ramhani can be reached on 07534 018 236 or asal@carat.co

Domino welcomes new European sales manager

Domino has announced the appointment of Laurent Nicollier as its sales manager for Europe, with a view to him growing the company’s sales not simply in his homeland of France, but throughout the continent. Laurent has over 12 years’ fine jewellery experience, having worked for a couple of large French businesses. In his most recent position he was responsible for the company’s strategic business unit, operating mainly in Europe and Japan. “We are delighted to welcome Laurent to Domino. He has a strong understanding of the industry and has particular expertise in design, sales and marketing. He also has excellent contacts with European retailers. We are confident that Laurent’s expertise will help us to grow further what is already an expanding market for us,” said Domino’s managing director, Andrew Morton.

Jewellery FOCUS

Advertisement Feature

TRENDS

Art & craft This month, Janet Fitch’s thoughts are on texture, hand-finishing and individuality, as she makes more new jewellery discoveries

part from a Bank Holiday, a spot of maypole dancing if you’re that way inclined, and the Eurovision Song Contest, May seems to be the lull before the frenzy of June and the Jubilee celebrations. That gives me the chance to elaborate on my comment last month that craft is a strong fashion theme for the seasons to come, and this interest in texture – with embroidery, crochet and hand finish – has spread to jewellery too. At the recent shows, I have seen several outstanding collections of textile jewellery, which use or combine fabrics with traditional elements of jewellery. Eleanor Bolton graduated from the Royal College of Art in 2010, and since then has developed her technique of hand-stitched coils of marine cotton rope, which form the basis of statement necklaces and bangles. Her A/W 2012 pieces are soft and tactile, but sophisticated, and introduce gold- and silver-plated elements, with black rope. (www.eleanorbolton.com) Ayala Bar is a leading costume jewellery designer in Israel. The company, founded in 1990, exports to selected retail outlets, art galleries and museum stores in the USA, Canada, Europe and the Far East. The collections – Classic, Hip, Radiance and Tulipa – blend a rich mix of ingredients such as metals, glass beads, mineral stones, crystal rhinestones and fabrics, to create intricate and exotic necklaces, earrings and bracelets that are colourful, decorative and very individual. (www.ayalabar.com)

Ayala Bar

Collect 'Wear again, again' by Lin Cheung, 2011, metal and textile. Courtesy Galerie Sofie Lachaert

Eleanor Bolton May 2012

David Watkins, Leaf Wheel 5 (Dependent Leaves) pin, gold, 8cm in diameter. Courtesy of Contemporary Applied Arts

Jewellery FOCUS

TRENDS

Nichols & Co

This jewellery is a best seller at Nichols & Co, a charming and quirky lifestyle shop, with two floors of fashion, jewellery, and “anything else we love” in Chester’s historic rows. So says Jean, a designer and fashion lecturer who set up the original business with Ronnie in 2002, selling homeware and vintage furniture and objets d’art – Ronnie’s passion. Both have extensive retail experience, as does Julie, a jeweller and silversmith, and Zahra, a stylist and textile artist, who joined the team in 2008 to complete Nichols & Co as it currently stands. “Our customers are all ages, but all eschew the homogenised high street. We are a destination shop with a loyal and repeat customer base, whether they are local and drop in frequently as they know we have different stock coming in regularly, or those who only visit Chester once a year, and come to us to get their fix. We have really positive feedback from customers from London and visitors from outside the UK who are delighted to find a varied collection of fashion jewellery and clothes,” Jean enthuses. “In the last few years jewellery and accessories have really taken over. We have a strong understanding of catwalkdriven trends, but also a house style driven by our own personal and individual tastes. Women looking to complete an outfit they already own can have excellent one-to-one service, whether they are spending £200 or £20. Ayala Bar

jewellery sells to people who fall in love with a piece – they tend to be drawn to colour and textiles rather than passing trends.” (www.nicholstyle.co.uk) This year the Crafts Council’s prestigious show, Collect, with around 31 international galleries represented, returns to the Saatchi Gallery in Chelsea, London, from 11 to 14 May. It’s well worth a trip, especially for the wealth of unusual jewellery there, including the work of Italian master craftsman Giovanni Corvaja, shown by Clare Beck at Adrian Sassoon; jewellery by Olympic medal designer David Watkins at Contemporary Applied Arts; and Paralympic medal designer Lin Cheung at Galerie Sofie Lachaert. (www.collect2012.org.uk) Of the many lovely new collections I’ve seen I can’t end without sharing a glimpse of Stephen Webster’s Forget me Knot collection – at first glance a very fresh, feminine look for a man whose brand motto is ‘beauty and danger’, but on closer inspection reveals tiny barbed, diamond-set studs and cascades of diamond razor ribbons. Set in 18 carat white and yellow gold, earrings, cocktail rings, statement cuffs and necklaces feature white and black diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, garnets and colourful Crystal Haze stones – an inspired design, impeccably crafted. (www.stephenwebster.com)

Stephen Webster

Giovanni Corvaja, bracelet, 2010, enamel and gold, 3cm by 12cm. Courtesy of Clare Beck at Adrian Sassoon

Jewellery FOCUS

May 2012

WATCH FOCUS

With over 90 new customers a month in over 15 countries worldwide, the Bering brand, last year still a newcomer, has achieved impressive sales in Amsterdam, Berlin, Copenhagen, London, Stockholm, Toronto and Helsinki. “Bering’s success can be attributed not only to its modest design and fantastic price-performance ratio, but also the use of high quality materials such as high tech ceramic and sapphire glass. Also, Bering’s in-store presentation comes complete with modern packaging and elegant point of sale materials.” This year, the brand has released a selection of new models in the Ceramic Link series. Information: www.beringtime.com RRP: £169

Watch focus “Functionality meets iconic design” in the new Chronograph Evo model by Mondaine. Designed with a 40-millimetre case, the model incorporates a chronograph and date, and is available with a white or black dial. The styles are evidence of ‘classic’ Swiss quality, and are accompanied by a two-year warranty and backed by the Mondaine International Service Network (MISO). Mondaine Watch Ltd is the creator of the Official Swiss Railways Watch collection, licensed by the Swiss Railways SBB and launched just over 20 years ago, representing the consumers’ version of the Swiss Railways Clock. In Switzerland, 3,000 of these famous Swiss clocks have indicated the precise time at all Swiss train stations for more than 60 years. Information: 0116 234 4656 (Burton McCall Ltd) or www.mondaine.com RRP: £325

Swatch has unveiled a new collaboration with artist Lorenzo Petrantoni, whose work is known for “combining a distinct graphic sensibility with an illustrative flourish.” As part of the Graphic Designers Collection from Swatch, Lorenzo Petrantoni has presented five different designs. He explains: “The old and the new come together; past and present, united in a unique project. This collection of five watches is the offspring of this perfect union. They were designed with decorations, characters, letters and symbols that date back to the 19th century, and the idea was to give life to characters and objects from our past once more, making them modern and aesthetically beautiful by using them for a young and stylish brand. For me it has been a fascinating, surprising and original project.” Information: 0845 296 2448 RRP: £44.50

May 2012

Festina has incorporated new women’s models into its Ceramic collection. Its remodeled, three-handed F16588 blends indices of roman numerals with zircons, and features an independent second hand and a small sub-dial at 6 o’clock. The multi-function F16587 model (pictured) also has a zircon-encrusted bezel. “With these new Ceramic collection models, [we have] achieved a perfect combination of distinction, innovation and design,” says Festina. Information: 0207 405 5523 or www.uniquejewelry.co.uk RRP: £169 to £189

Jewellery FOCUS

Shopfitting and display

Inspiring interiors

Nicholas Interiors

Louise Hoffman takes a look at some of the shopfitting and display services that are available for those looking to refresh their stores this spring

s has become apparent in recent times, and especially as a result of the recession, setting yourself apart from the competition is the key to success. Product offering, customer service, diversification, branding, ecommerce and added value services are all excellent routes to explore in achieving this, but one must also not underestimate the power of first impressions. Yes, we are all taught as children never to judge a book by its cover; but if we’re honest, I think few of us ever manage to fully adhere to this piece of wisdom – perhaps because our impressions are so often proved correct! And this is especially evident in the retail environment – the presentation of a shop interior or window can have a range of powerful effects, from drawing customers in, to literally repelling them. The latter does not always come as a result of an ill-conceived or unkempt display or layout either – it can just as easily be caused by intimidation. Ultimately, it is all about accurately representing the content, ethos, and target audience of your

May 2012

store, but keeping the door wide open for everyone.

Time for change?

The spring season has the unique ability to kick-start us into action, especially when it comes to sprucing up our homes and gardens – and stores! The brighter weather and extra hours of daylight are not only motivational, they also serve to highlight areas that the duster has missed or that need a lick of paint. Meanwhile, the sense of optimism that is induced in us should always be utilised to good effect! If you’ve taken a long, hard look at your retail premises – both window and shopfloor – and realised that it’s time for a change, then there are several companies available to help you. Just Brothers & Co of London has been established for over 40 years and is one of the most well known suppliers of display boxes in the UK, as well as operating in export markets as far flung as America, Europe and Australia. The company supplies a comprehensive range of products for all markets, offering everything from

Just Bros less expensive cardboard and plastic boxes to high-class leatherette and leather cases. There is also an extensive range of wooden boxes in a number of different shapes and sizes. These are available in a natural, light wood colour, and a highly polished mahogany shade, and both colours are, in many cases, available off-the-shelf. Just Brothers’ range encompasses traditional boxes, as well as modern, bespoke and trendier designs, with custom-made packaging being the company’s speciality. “Our sales team, which operates throughout the UK and

Jewellery FOCUS

Shopfitting and display

Southern Gem

in parts of Europe, has many years of experience working with customers to produce boxes to their own particular specifications,” it says. Display materials, which are available in modern PU and acrylic, are available off-the-shelf, while velvet displays can be obtained within a few weeks of ordering. The company has also recently introduced hand-made displays, which can be covered in striking colours of Bengaline fabric – as pictured. “This facility gives customers the flexibility to change their displays easily and also allows them to add to

Jewellery FOCUS

existing displays, giving a whole new look to windows at a relatively low cost,” Just Brothers adds. Southern Gem Displays is a UK designer and manufacturer of jewellery display, cabinets and fit-out windows for the jewellery trade. The Kent-based business was established over 14 years ago and has expanded rapidly, now distributing to prominent retailers throughout the British Isles and beyond via mail order and its online store. It provides hand-made window displays using a wide range of materials, fabrics and colours, to customer specification, and for both multiples and independent jewellers. “Our aim is to ensure the highest quality and unique distinction to each customer. To enable us to accomplish this we have our own in-house design and production team who specialise in design, fabric covering, carpentry/ wood machining and spray finishing, providing a large selection of wood, fabric, coloured and lacquered finishes,” the company explains. “Our design team will be happy to discuss your needs and provide the benefit of our extensive knowledge of stylish contemporary designs, which give a unique distinction to each customer – all with that important personal touch. “Whether your store requires a totally new look or a few items for a new range,

we can accommodate your needs. If you are looking for an outstanding range of designs and excellent quality products at affordable prices, and for a friendly, efficient service, then order direct from Southern Gem Displays,” the company enthuses. “The retail world is changing and the jewellery industry is no exception,” cautions Nicholas Interiors. “With the tough economic climate we have found retailers have to move forward with their approach to sales and marketing. Competition is increasing and branded products are playing a larger role within stores. This has led to numerous jewellery stores losing their identity and individuality.” The company is addressing this problem by way of a complete service, including design, manufacture, installation and visual merchandising. “With our wealth of experience within the jewellery industry we can offer cutting edge technology alongside traditional craftsmanship. Our in-house workshop can produce bespoke cabinets, display cases and shop windows designed to individual requirements.” In a market that Nicholas Interiors recognises is constantly moving, the company seeks to embrace change and revolutionary new products. “We have recently completed our first fully LED-lit store. This is eco-friendly, reduces carbon footprint, and has the benefit of lower

May 2012



Shopfitting and display

running costs, yet manages jewellery retailers and to the to enhance all jewellery jewellery brands themselves,” displays, without the heat and the company elaborates. discolouration that can occur “For example, our range with conventional lighting. of beautifully made display “Nicholas Interiors is also cabinets is a regular feature at the forefront of technology at trade shows, as well as at with respect to individual a host of exclusive, private computerised cabinet locking exhibitions. They are available systems. These have digital for hire as well as to buy, and a locks to suit customer needs, new addition to the range later and improve security within this summer promises to be a stores, also eliminating the use real showstopper.” of keys.” But it’s not just cabinets that In addition, the company are gaining Visionary Displays offers bespoke, quality rental a fast-growing reputation; display showcases for use at the company says that its full exhibitions, store events and brand-turnkey facility is a fairs UK-wide. powerful tool for customers Watts Design has launched to leverage greater market a new modular range of share, through considered, Watts Design display cabinets that are researched, strategic and portable and easy to install. professional brand design. Supplier listing Available in natural walnut “The potential of this Just Brothers & Co: 0208 880 2505 or or oak, white or painted to offering is far reaching,” it Nicholas Interiors: 0151 924 1352 or match any corporate colours, continues, “and now means Pearce Displays: 01484 605 458 or the MINO display tank that everything from a window Southern Gem Displays: 0800328 6073 or includes two LED spotlights display through to full interior Visionary Displays: 07931 799 806 or Watts Design: 01598 710 215 or and is lockable. “Measuring brand and design can be approximately one metre sourced from a single point of wide, by 550 millimetres deep, by one individually, or large quantities can contact at Visionary Displays.” metre high, these stylish display tanks be accommodated. Free dressing, props, seasonal and beautifully offset stunning jewellery Finally, Visionary Displays is headed collection-led displays, plus visual displays. Simply unwrap, put in place up by Bridget Moore, who has taken the merchandising, are all included in and plug in!” says the company. model of a traditional display company Visionary Displays’ service. “This is an The MINO range can be ordered and, in her own inimitable way, shaken offering which, alongside our trusted now, directly from the new Watts things up a little. “Such are the skill sets partner-suppliers, means that we are website (address listed above) for quick within Visionary Displays, that we can the first choice for some of our very well dispatch. The cabinets can be bought offer pretty much everything, to both known high street brands.”

Visionary Displays

May 2012

Jewellery FOCUS

May 2012

Advertisement feature

A beautifully crafted business

hen you commission a shop-fit or installation from Watts Design, you know that you will receive a truly personal service and high quality craftsmanship. But did you know that it is the founders of this flourishing business who still put in the hours of loving care for every project? Watts Design has grown from humble beginnings – the garage at the home of brothers John and Mike Watts. Both are City & Guilds qualified carpenters and joiners, studying their craft at North Devon College, and serving apprenticeships at a local building firm back in the early 1980s. It was in 1990 that they decided to spread their wings and build their own business, and now they employ one of their previous co-workers. If you ask either of the brothers what is so special about carpentry, you will see a light in their eyes as they tell you how wonderful it is to work with a piece of wood. “Every piece of wood is unique,” says Mike. “The grain, the colours and patterns are endless and make it a joy to work with.” “There is a deep-rooted urge to work with something natural and make something beautiful from it,” adds John. “In a way, it’s giving the wood an extended life, by turning it into something useful and attractive that will stand the test of time for many years to come.” Situated on the fringes of the Exmoor National Park, the Watts Design purpose-built workshop is in the ideal environment to both inspire and complement the creative and original work of the brothers. The company has continued to grow, with an ethos of customer satisfaction and building strong relationships. Even now, some of Watts Design’s very first customers from 20 years ago are still coming back for more. “We believe that a sense of humour and enthusiasm are paramount, ensuring that each client’s project is a pleasant experience – one that will stay with them long after we have moved out,” says Mike. “In-house we’re fortunate to have a very loyal and well qualified team of craftsmen, and it is our aim to provide our clients with a user friendly solution that looks fantastic, on time

May 2012

Watts Design founders John and Mike Watts outline the many services that they can offer to jewellery retailers, and the passion they have for their work

and within budget.” Asking John about the way in which their business works with its clients, he says: “Clients know what they would like and they know what they don’t like! We can take that initial starting point and show them what could work in their space – not only concentrating on the finished visual concept from the outside, but also taking into consideration all of the working elements involved in their working day. “Working very closely with them and their aspirations, we will create a project bespoke to every client’s business, that really showcases their stunning jewellery. After all, the aim is to show off their diamonds and not our cabinets! “Using our design and craftsman skills we work through a process, beginning with design drawings, and providing layout plans with initial ideas. Then we can present a 3D version should the client wish to discuss it with other team members, as not everyone can read plans easily and it’s great to see how it’s going to look in reality. “Over the years we have built up a trustworthy and competent group of tradesmen, who we bring into the working project. Mike and I are always

the main contacts on site, so decisions can be dealt with fast to keep the whole project moving quickly. “We also think about our clients’ potential new customers looking in from the outside – we need them to stop, look and think: ‘Wow, I really want to go inside.’ We suggest that clients take some time to consider whether their shop front is working for them. With our qualified joinery craftsmen we have replaced numerous complete shop fronts and the finished scheme certainly increased footfall.” But there is more to Watts Design than this. The company has just launched a range of modular units and display cases that can be purchased direct from its new website – www.wattsdesign.co.uk. It can also make bespoke display cabinets, and has been developing its glass bonding techniques to combine this practical, modern look with the natural timber. Often using a low iron glass – which has less green colour on the edges and is toughened, varying in thickness dependant on application – there is no end to the shapes, sizes and designs that Watts Design can create. For more information about the Watts Design service, please call 01598 710 215 or visit

Jewellery FOCUS

Body jewellery

ou can’t fail to notice the growing number of people who are pushing the boundaries beyond traditional ear lobe piercing, to embrace a new culture of body embellishment. Along with the ‘popularising’ of tattoos – which are now very visibly sported not only by enthusiasts, but by a large cross section of UK society – piercings of all kinds have become increasingly desirable. I spoke to Dickie Smith, piercer at Cosmic Tattoo in Colchester, to get the lowdown on the situation. He confirmed that the number of people going under the needle has, indeed, risen: “Over the past few years, piercings have become more acceptable, and not as scary as people used to think. They have also become more mainstream as celebrities have been getting them done, and people often take inspiration from celebrities. Also, reality shows such as Miami Ink and LA Ink have raised the profile of body modification. “Micro dermals have become more popular as normal ear piercings have become more common, with people looking for new ways to express themselves. But the most common piercings are still tragus, top of ear, navel and tongue,” he added. It stands to reason that the more piercings are made, the more jewellery is required – even more so if people are looking for ways to express their own individual personality and sense of style, as Dickie points out. So why aren’t more jewellers exploring this growing market? Beaujangles, established in 1986, is a fashion jewellery and accessories shop located in the historical Lanes area of Norwich. In 1999 the decision was made to begin stocking body jewellery, and, 12 years on, the product now consistently outsells silver jewellery at the store. Nicola Payne, who led this diversification at the tender age of 19, and has now returned to the business to design and maintain its website, explains that the venture started small, with stock limited to simple surgical steel ball closure rings sold mainly for belly buttons and eyebrows. Then, “as popularity increased, more became available for the navel, such as jewelled banana bells; and tongue piercing also became very popular, so we started stocking and selling more fancy jewelled balls and the like,” she continues. “At that time only a very simple range was available, all of which was manufactured in Britain and was quite expensive to buy. For example, the retail price of a surgical steel jewelled banana bell back then was £29.95, compared to a current retail price of just £3.” Over the ensuing few years, the popularity of body piercing soared, especially in the 16 to 21 age bracket, and consequently the number of suppliers and variety of products increased. “Titanium, although more expensive than surgical steel, became more widely available, both because it is hypoallergenic and because of the fancy colours that it can come in,” Nicola explains. “Tragus and lip piercings were next to become extremely popular, as well as different parts of the ear and female nipple piercing, but the ‘craze’ that has been building and building over the past few years is ear-stretching. We easily sell well over 100 acrylic expanders every week. Customers start small and then buy bigger and bigger ones in steps until they get to the size of hole they want – usually about

From the outside looking in, it’s easy to perceive the body jewellery sector as a members-only club – and an intimidating one at that

May 2012

Skin

deep

Love them or loathe them, piercings are more popular than ever. So why are so few jewellers actively catering to the demand for body jewellery? Louise Hoffman investigates

8 or 10mm. We then stock and sell hundreds of tunnels and plugs in many different styles, and in materials such as surgical steel, acrylic, PTFE, and natural stones and materials such as wood, horn and bone, as well as silicon, gold and black titanium and even cubic zirconia. Our largest tunnel size currently in stock is 50mm.” I asked Nicola for her thoughts on the accessibility of the body jewellery market, and she was firmly of the opinion that the product is not easy to sell without some background knowledge. “The reason we have been so successful at selling the body jewellery is that we have staff with a keen understanding of the way it all works, and we have built up our knowledge as the popularity has increased. Body jewellery can be bought in many different sizes, thicknesses, lengths and materials, and customers often have no idea about what they need for their piercing or about the complexity of the sizing.” This need for specialist knowledge is not necessarily a barrier to the market – for those who already have an understanding of body jewellery, and those who are interested in learning about it, the doors are wide open – however, it is clearly a major hurdle. Not only this, but from the outside looking in, it’s easy to perceive the body jewellery sector as a members-only club – and an intimidating one at that. Indeed, it is this recognition which formed the inspiration behind Karma Se7en, a company which has its roots in both the mainstream body piercing market and the traditional jewellery market, thanks to the combined experience of owners Mark Evans and Jacqui Joiner. Having run a series of body piercing studios in London and Hertfordshire from the early 90s, the duo found themselves well placed to launch a brand new concept to the market, uniting two distanced ends of the jewellery sector spectrum. Mark explains: “Body jewellery has often been overlooked by high street jewellers due to the unfamiliar materials used and the range of sizes needed or deemed to be needed. Also, it may have been seen as a short-lived fashion or fad, or worn only by the ‘alternative’ fringe. But they now realise that it is part of an ongoing trend and that most 16- to 38-yearolds who walk into their shop have one piercing or another, especially around the ears, where it is now not only the ear lobes that are commonly pierced.”

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Jewellery FOCUS

Body jewellery

Images: Karma Se7en

Body jewellery

“Most 16- to 38-year-olds who walk into [a jewellery] shop have one piercing or another, especially around the ears, where it is now not only the ear lobes that are commonly pierced”

Karma Se7en’s mission is to bridge the gap between the worlds of traditional body jewellery and traditional fine jewellery, to provide jewellers with a brand new product that sits comfortably within their existing business model, yet allows them to tap in to this expanding market. “We have brought body jewellery to the high street by making sure that the materials used fit perfectly with the ranges that jewellers are already selling, and with suitable packaging and POS,” Mark affirms. “We offer consumers jewellery made from precious and semi-precious materials, including gemstones and diamonds, rather than the surgical steel and titanium that is traditionally used in body jewellery.” Another major point of difference is that the company uses BioFlex for the stems of the jewellery, rather than the aforementioned titanium or surgical steel, or indeed precious metals. “BioFlex is a revolutionary, metal-free material that is completely hypo-allergenic,” Mark explains. “It is also comfortable, soft, flexible and lightweight, and offers exceptional value for money, because all unseen gold and silver is eliminated.” A selection of UK-manufactured, gemstone-set, nine carat gold heads and silver heads are then available to fit onto the BioFlex stems, while the nose stud range is available with either a BioFlex stem or a gold stem.

Concentrating on the most popular piercings, like the upper ears and tragus, the Karma Se7en product range currently consists of over 500 lines and is divided into four collections: K7 Gemstones, K7 Silver, K7 Gold and K7 Diamonds. “There is a range of jewellery for all types of jewellers, from high end specialist jewellers to high street jewellers,” Mark enthuses. “The collections allow a lot of flexibility, because if for example a retailer only sells diamonds, then they can take the K7 Diamonds range only. The four ranges also carry different price points, to cater to the specific target audiences of the stores. In this way, the Karma Se7en brand can fit into all types of shops.” As Beaujangles can attest, body jewellery is big business these days. “In fact, we are currently in the process of downsizing our silver ranges (mainly due to the increased prices) and extending our body jewellery ranges to take over most of our first floor. We started selling over the internet in 2009, and body jewellery items have been the most popular purchases by far,” says Nicola. “Body jewellery has always been a high repeat product and is generally changed and brought as often as earrings and other jewellery,” Mark confirms. “The intricate ear piercings are now a modern extension of the ear lobe piercing, and being able to offer customers jewellery that is specially designed for their piercings has opened up a whole new market for jewellers. “What we have developed is a range of jewellery that sells through, has good margins, attracts word-of-mouth sales and, more importantly, repeat sales, with very little effort required on the part of the jeweller, because these customers are already walking into their shops or browsing the windows for traditional pieces of jewellery. “With the current economic climate and the high price of gold, high street jewellers are looking to attract new customers and offer new products. The jewellery industry needs to diversify and evolve and we are proud to be a part of the change,” he concludes.

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LuxurY

Luxury jewellery Armin Strom  At £27,830, the One Week Fire from Switzerland’s Armin Strom is surely a classy alternative to more heavily promoted European brands. With an old-school touch, the watch is a manual mechanical wind-up piece with a seven-day power reserve and off-centre time display on the face. The case and bezel is 18 carat rose gold, and the crown wheels are visible as well as boasting a sapphire crystal and case back. The strap is made from alligator horn-back leather with an 18 carat rose gold clasp. This edition is limited to 100 pieces. www.arminstrom.com

 Piaget

Piaget’s Limelight Garden Party Necklace is a “sumptuous set in which the rose reigns supreme,” combining brilliant diamonds and rich blue sapphires in a cascade of sparkle, elegance and delicacy. With a mass of stones adorning the five tassles which drape onto the neck, this piece has incredible panache. The 36 pear-shaped blue sapphires are approximately 26.39 carats, while the 201 brilliant-cut diamonds weigh in at 29.20 carats. The roses are made of chalcedony, and all stones are set in 18 carat white gold. RRP: POA www.piaget.com

 Patek Philippe Watchmaker Patek Philippe has created the Ladies Nautilus, a white gold beauty set with 46 diamonds of around 0.73 carats. With a ‘sweep’ seconds hand, silvery white dial, applied gold hour markers with luminescent coating and a case diameter of 32 millimetres, this bright yet petite watch is as dazzling as it is well-crafted. The workings contain 80 parts, are 2.5 millimetres high, and are based on quartz movement with date. To cap it all, this masterpiece is waterproof to a depth of 60 metres – outstanding for such a high-end dress piece. RRP: £31,180 www.patek.com

May 2012

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May 2012

Focus on

friendship bracelets 1

riendship bracelets have been prevalent in the industry for some time, and as we approach mid2012, their popularity shows no sign of waning. While sources suggest that friendship bracelets didn’t make their way into the mainstream until the 1970s, they are thought to have been invented by Native Americans in Central and South America. According to tradition, the bracelets were made from colourful cord materials and woven, plaited or knotted, to be placed onto the wrist of a friend. The bracelet was then not to be removed until it was fully worn and fell off by itself. A wish was also to be made when first putting on the bracelet, which was supposed to come true when the bracelet fell off. Perhaps the now hugely popular cord and crystal ‘disco ball’ bracelets are also derived from this concept? This style of bracelet has proved a huge success, with both the general public and celebrities such as athletes, musicians and television personalities. Indeed, it is undoubtedly their celebrity following that has encouraged such impressive sales of the bracelets. Consumers and retailers alike seem to agree on one thing – that this relatively simple design has taken the industry by storm. As George from Sterlinx London Ltd explains, “the crystal bracelets are so

May 2012

Naida Ally explores the colourful world of friendship and ‘disco ball’ bracelets, which have attracted a celebrity following

popular simply because they are so elegant. After all, who doesn't like a bit of bling?” Meanwhile, Bob Adams of Charms UK adds: “These bracelets have a huge celebrity following and the price point is great too.” Commenting on friendship bracelets, Barry Bennett, director of Gecko, points out: “Friendship bracelets were one of the strongest trends that emerged last year and they have proven their staying power again in this year’s catwalks.” Whichever of the two styles you prefer, it seems that both have the potential to bring in returning clientele, and so here we present a selection of designs to choose from. Sterlinx London has launched two charity bracelets, crafted by its designers

– one in aid of wounded soldiers and the other in aid of cancer research related charities. Twenty-five per cent of the proceeds will be donated to the causes. Having just launched the Union Jack products in time for the Jubilee and the Olympics, Sterlinx also has earrings and pendants all set in sterling silver, along with a range of nine crystalthreaded bracelets, made using genuine crystals. The company has also included the ‘three-tone’ bracelets in this range. All of the products are available for immediate delivery, from huge stocks. For more information, contact the Sterlinx London sales team. The leather friendship bracelets by Kutuu feature symbols, messages and phrases that are inspiring and

3 Jewellery FOCUS

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sentimental. Bestsellers include the ‘a heart for love’ and ‘live, love, laugh’, while the newest piece in the collection features a ‘touch wood’ silver charm and small disc of walnut. Available in six different colours and complete with packaging, the bracelets have proved hugely popular for Kutuu. All of the designs are made in the UK and carefully assembled by hand in North Wales. The leather friendship bracelets have co-ordinating pieces for each. Tribal Steel by Midhaven Ltd is a range of over 200 leather and stainless steel bracelets for men, women and youngsters, including many unisex styles, available in over 15 colours. Whether you are looking for simple masculine styles, charm bracelets that

Jewellery FOCUS

convert to necklets, or a red, white and blue look, you will find it in this extensive range. Choose individual styles from the brochures or order a selection based on your preferences. Spend £200 and get a free point of sale as well as branded hessian pouches. “Our bracelets are high quality natural leather with clean, modern, stainless steel lines. Our customers say our range is a breath of fresh air after the last few years of the fussy, inexplicably high-priced charm bracelet trend,” says Alison Hargreaves. Charms UK’s new collection of Candy Bling bracelets launched this April. “Perfect for the new season,” the bracelets are the latest must-have accessory from the company. The

Candy Bling collection includes over 100 bracelets and necklaces created in sterling silver with cz, crystal, pearl, hematite and different colours of silk cord. The bracelets are available in a variety of colours and styles, and can be worn stacked or individually. Also available is the Olympic and Jubilee range, which picks up on this season’s trends. Contact Charms UK to request a brochure or place an order. “These bracelets are all the rage on the high street,” says World of Charms, the brand behind the Bulle d’Amour bracelet, which has been seen on the wrists of many a celebrity. “The simplicity of the Bulle d’Amour bracelet is what makes it such a great item to wear for any occasion. The look is unlike anything else you have ever seen before and it is guaranteed to add sleekness and style to your wardrobe.” Having just launched a new flyer for the shops, World of Charms says it has seen sales “driven through the roof.” Lucet Mundi says that it ensures and promotes everlasting alliances with its “exquisite line of quality friendship power bead bracelets.” Paying attention to the finest details in craftsmanship, and bang on trend, the Lucet Mundi brand is now highly sought-after. “Many celebrities and noted personalities have elected us as their brand of choice. We

May 2012

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Focus on

guarantee your satisfaction and pride ourselves on our reputation for the strongest quality control in the industry. So jump onto the bandwagon and purchase a selection of our exclusive handmade Tibetan cord bracelets, adorned with lustrous Czech crystals. Our Olympic and Flower Summer collections are due to hit the shelves shortly, so keep your eyes peeled!” says the company. “Our continuous additions of unique and appealing styles have made us the ideal choice for all discerning jewellery stores and boutiques. Our existing retailers have given rave reviews from delighted customers and are constantly praising our customer service. The combination of top notch quality, originality, constant fresh designs and

classy presentation has ensured that we are found in the best jewellers and boutiques on the high street. With our ever-expanding customer base, we can now be found in virtually any large shopping centre, including Goldsmiths.” Gecko’s Fiorelli Silver presents a stylish friendship bracelet featuring two rows of rhodium-plated silver beads interwoven on lavender cord. The soft colour and detailing make it a simple yet elegant nod to the friendship bracelet trend, perfect for wearing alone or layered with statement timepieces or this season’s colourful wrist wear. “At Gecko, we love the fact that with friendship bracelets we get to play with a range of materials like silk cord and leather, implementing new looks with

May 2012

innovative techniques that include age-old crafts like weaving, plaiting and knotting,” says Barry Bennett. For younger girls, friendship bracelets are perfect playful accessories, with Gecko’s D for diamond Strawberry bracelet featuring a diamond-set strawberry on a soft pink cord. Tresor Paris, based in the Hatton Garden quarter in London, specialises in creating crystal and natural stone jewellery. “Tresor Paris fits the description of both high fashion and high quality, and has already seen remarkable results with an impressive celebrity clientele,” explains the company. “Using only the finest materials, the brand combines couture style with Boho-chic designs, and the result is something quite unique – a variety of bracelets, necklaces, earrings and rings for women, men and children.” Over the last year, the brand has built a vast collection, not forgetting the bespoke and limited addition ranges such as the X-Factor; a Union Jack collection for this special year; and designs in aid of worthy charities such as Breast Cancer Care and Children with Aids, for which it worked alongside Yasmin Le Bon. “‘The Original’ continues to go from strength to strength!” Tresor Paris adds. Established over 20 years ago, UKbased Spoke 925 supplies jewellery

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May 2012

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retailers throughout the world with sterling silver ranges. Its silk and silver friendship bracelets, finished to your exact specification, are designed, manufactured and delivered directly to you. Whatever your store requires, Spoke 925 says it will advise and supply to meet your sales demands. From classic pieces

May 2012

to trend-led ranges, all are available to enhance your in-store offering. Spoke 925’s large in-house range is available to order online (www.spoke925.com), and with the facilities to produce bespoke ranges, the company says it “has to be on your favourite supplier list for all of your sterling silver jewellery.”

1) Sterlinx: 01902 421 320 or 07971 544 914 2) Kutuu: 01352 756 797 3) Midhaven: 01299 851 513 4) Charms UK: 0117 968 3979 5) World of Charms: 0871 900 1899 6) Lucet Mundi: 0208 211 7286 7) Gecko: 01376 532 000 8) Tresor Paris: 0203 355 4030 9) Spoke 925: 0141 339 2540

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DESIGN FOCUS

Design

focus

Naida Ally speaks to Lilian Lousky, designer at Tresor Paris What’s new for the autumn/winter 2012 collection?

We’ve got the Bellatrix Collection, the Atara Collection and we’ve also got some more of the Venus Collection.

What is the inspiration behind the new pieces?

My family background, but also most of my recent inspiration has been the clientele. I’ve been to many retail stores where they sell our product and seen the excitement on people’s faces when they try on pieces and actually see the product.

How do you see the brand evolving in the future?

Well, I hope it will be more global. We’ve started selling in Australia, Canada and the USA – so it is going in the right direction, and we hope that we keep going in this way.

And how about design-wise? What direction do you think you’ll be taking?

We try different things all of the time, but everyone seems to love what we’re doing now, so I think we’re going to stick with that for a while because it is something that is really pleasing everyone. At the moment I think sparkle is definitely the keyword.

What do you enjoy most about being a designer and being in the industry?

I’ve always been creative and I love making new things, but I especially enjoy it when people comment on it – it’s really nice to hear people say: “Oh that’s nice, is it new?”

Jewellery FOCUS

May 2012

Industry

Ear to the ground Syreeta Tranfield speaks to two representatives of men’s fashion, to get the lowdown on current trends and sales tactics

ore so than ever, there seems to be a lot of variety in the jewellery that men wear, to suit their individual styles and outfits – from a classic, smart look; to a trendy style; or a sporty weekend appearance; and sometimes a combination of two looks, such as a classic and professional-looking watch with a sporty edge. I spoke to a men’s trends blogger and a leading designer to gain their perspectives on current men’s jewellery and trends.

The blogger

Global trends are now easily accessible at the touch of a button, and Maketh the Man is a popular blog – a “gentleman’s fashion blog, showcasing men’s accessories and jewellery.” I spoke to the man behind the blog, Callum Watt (pictured below), who is presenting a seminar at IJL this year…

How has the concept of men’s jewellery changed in recent years?

Throughout history, men have always been adorned with many different

types of wonderful jewellery pieces, from Egyptian necklaces, to East End gangster rings. These statement pieces are a continued trend for men, as they often see jewellery as a show of money, power or simply individualism. However, with major high street stores making cheaper costume jewellery much more accessible, and with the de-genderisation of jewellery, the options on offer are greater. As a result, I believe that men’s jewellery is much more popular now than ever, and men are becoming braver in their choices. On top of this, the internet has opened up so many more purchasing options than were previously available.

What are some of the current key men’s jewellery trends?

Statement pieces will always be strong, but instead of the typical gold or silver bracelet, beautiful hand-made leather straps, ebony beaded bracelets, and colourful cords are replacing them. Often wrist jewellery is worn with a watch, so something simple that won’t

detract from the timepiece is usually the preference.

What trends do you think will be big for men’s jewellery in 2013?

The continued trend of the modern day dandy lends itself to new jewellery pieces. Tie-pins, men’s brooches, and short chains worn underneath a bow-tie are all strong looks. However, a more playful side with cheaper materials including bronze, brass, resin and perspex is also starting to come through.

Do you have any ideas for retailers in terms of how they can present men’s jewellery?

The psychology of a man must not be forgotten. We want to believe that we have made a conscious decision to buy jewellery ourselves, without it being forced upon us. Retailers need to understand this, and be clever with their merchandising. They need to inspire men with their clothing and jewellery choices. Showing us how to put together an outfit, with a focus on how to create our own individual style with jewellery would help this.

The designer

Tomasz Donocik launched at IJL in 2006 as a Bright Young Gem – many will remember his stunning mannequin display. He has gone from strength to strength to become a leading a designer, creating inspirational pieces for men, which are trend-setting in themselves (opposite).

How do you think the concept of men’s jewellery has changed in recent years?

I think men have started to wear more and more jewellery. Major jewellery

“We want to believe that we have made a conscious decision to buy jewellery ourselves, without it being forced upon us”

May 2012

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Industry

brands have many products that are available for men – from high-end brands such as Stephen Webster, whose men’s jewellery has a soul and rock ‘n’ roll attitude, to the mass market brands such as Thomas Sabo. I think it is now a mix of fine jewellery with easy-to-wear jewellery that attracts men.

What can we expect to see from your work in terms of trends?

My men’s jewellery has influences from military uniforms, architecture and more reptile-esque textures and patterns.

What do you think works well in terms of retailing men’s jewellery?

When selling men’s jewellery I personally believe one needs to sell the image and attitude of the man who’s going to buy and wear the pieces. Retail stores do this in a variety of ways: fashion stores have their mannequin dressed and accessorised

accordingly; concept stores have a sort of wardrobe for the ultimate outfit laid out; and fine jewellery stores tend to sell watches alongside their complementary jewels. Looking at the broad range of men’s jewellery being created

by current designers, there are plenty of options for retailers to stock collections that will appeal to their customer base, whether it be men looking for fresh ideas for themselves, or women buying gifts for the men in their lives.

For more information about International Jewellery London, please visit

Jewellery FOCUS

May 2012

TAKING STOCK

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Times are challenging, and like most other companies, Mayanna has had to take stock and work out how to confront that challenge in 2012. The company believes that now, as ever, Britain is open to beautiful jewellery at realistic prices. Roman of Mayanna says: “With our new range of amber jewellery, worked with gold or with silver, we have positioned ourselves in the amber market where we are convinced that we have the best quality and the best designs, and where we work hard at providing an excellent service. In this way we will serve our customers to mutual advantage.” Information: 01494 524 124 or anna@mayanna.com

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Takin Taking

stock

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Amanda Cox’s popular Lily Collection is perfect for brides to be. The 28-piece collection is available in silver or gold with a choice of white, peacock, pink or silver-grey pearls. There are rings, earrings, bangles and bracelets to choose from, as well as more unusual pieces such as a tiara and hairpins, and cufflinks and tie tacks for men. Information: 01422 842 446 or www.amandacoxjewellery.co.uk

May 2012

Adding a revenue stream like pawnbroking can be daunting. Kathy Lyons and Ken Vaughan say that they provide “confident consultancy support for secured lending.” Believing the UK pawnbroking market remains under-served and that further opportunities exist for jewellers to fill the lending gap left by high street banks, both Kathy and Ken provide experience, knowledge and expertise, with over 30 years’ experience in both sectors. “KV Consultancy has already provided training, support and guidance to independent and multiple jewellers, helping to develop the service to suit clients’ own unique businesses and ensuring that the legal and operational elements are in place, without taking focus from the main business. It can provide owners or directors with an overview of the industry, answering those difficult questions, and can provide a wide range of training and support services tailored to your business. All enquiries are welcome.” Information: 07976 645 425 or kvtc.kenv@sky.com

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Jonathan Lynne has been manufacturing classic and period style jewellery since 1984. The collection includes rings, earrings and pendants, which are all set with diamonds and quality coloured stones, available in 9, 14 and 18 carat yellow, white and rose gold, as well as platinum. The company is continually adding to its ranges and each new piece is carefully designed to faithfully reproduce the quality fineness and low setting of antique jewellery, with the use of Frenchcut stones, delicate pavé and millgraining. Visit the company’s website for more details. Information: 01935 426 791 or www.jonathanlynne.co.uk

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TAKING STOCK

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North-London-based Alfred Terry has been part of the leading mine-to-retail Gitanjali Group since October 2011, and is embarking on a 12-month programme of events to evolve its products and improve its offering to customers. To commemorate the festivities of 2012, it is starting with the Alfred Terry Jubilee Collection, based around four themes – couture, pearls, storyteller diamonds and celebrate. The 200-piece collection features an entirely new selection of rings, neckwear and earrings, featuring diamonds of HSI quality. The range includes crafted classic styles, as well as attention-grabbing contemporary pieces. Nick Kasler of Alfred Terry says: “The Alfred Terry Jubilee Collection allows the wearer to select a piece that is personal to them, while feeling part of the collective celebration of this momentous year. Watch out for more developments in 2012.” Information: 0208 446 9020

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“Choose 360 degree to stay ahead of the competition!” says Mode360 Ltd, whose machines are revolutionary solutions to product photography and 360 degree image animation. Designed for all retailers who constantly strive to find a modern way to promote their products and improve online sales performance, the machines are compact in size, reliable and easily utilised in the privacy of your own office, accompanied by guaranteed full technical support and three years of warranty. Information: 0207 935 4468, office@mode360.co.uk or www.mode360.co.uk

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Based in Essex, Goldline Design has been repairing and re-springing watch links, watch bracelets and bangles since 1988. The company also makes and fits handmade watch clasps and ladders in sterling silver; nine carat yellow and white gold; 18 carat yellow and white gold; and platinum. Single links can be made and fitted to most bracelets, and the company can offer many other services, including complete refurbishment of watch cases and bracelets; polishing and re-rhodium; bracelet removal and fitting of strap lugs. Nine or 18 carat buckles can also be supplied and fitted. Information: 01702 543 100 or tcawston15@gmail.com

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The “jewellery innovation of the decade” is soon to be launched by Pursuit Software. Described as “a breakthrough that has the power to change jewellery retailing as you know it,” the software will create a whole new shopping experience for the customer. “This state-ofthe-art technology will leave you in no doubt that Pursuit is the system to take your business to a whole new level, increasing not only your sales but also your level of customer retention,” says the company. The launch takes place on 30 April at the Hilton Hotel, London Stansted. In order to secure a place, please contact the Pursuit marketing team. Information: 01603 263 800 or marketing@pursuit.co.uk

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XMC International Ltd is a specialist manufacturer of finished mounts in 18 carat gold and platinum. Its extensive range of semiset and plain mounts caters for a large variety of stone sizes, to suit individual preferences. Additionally, it provides a large collection of eternity rings in different widths and stone sizes. The ever-growing range now includes a wide variety of earrings and pendants to complement XMC’s existing designs. “For a friendly and helpful service, contact the phone number below,” says the company. Information: 0121 523 1028

Jewellery FOCUS

May 2012

A day at the Office

Bonded gold

In a new series contributed by the Birmingham Assay Office, its experts talk about the challenges which face them on a daily basis, and which require all of their knowledge and experience to resolve

iana Donnelly has been an assayer since 1997. Initially, Diana was trained to assess fineness by touch acid testing, prior to scraping off minute samples for assaying (testing) using the traditional methods of cupellation for gold or titration for silver. However, as imports of finished jewellery increased and domestic production of articles sent to the Assay Office in an unfinished state diminished in the late 1990s and early 2000s, the Birmingham Assay Office invested in and retrained its assayers in newly developed X-ray fluorescence technology (XRF). Assaying by XRF usually requires no scraping of the articles but still delivers an accurate fineness when carried out by a skilled operator with a sophisticated machine and all of the necessary standards. Diana is part of a team of assayers who are crucial to the hallmarking

May 2012

process, as it is their job to ensure that the precious metal is of the fineness declared by the supplier. Once the hallmark is applied, the Assay Office itself has guaranteed that fineness and is responsible for any error, so any mistakes are very costly. The assayers’ time is included in the hallmarking fee, so it is important that they can reach the correct conclusion quickly and efficiently. Many items submitted for hallmarking are straightforward and only require assessment by one operator. However, the high price of gold has seen the introduction of new concepts in precious metal jewellery that have suddenly made assaying much more complicated and fraught with problems. Diana explains: “We are quite used to seeing gold-plated silver, which is generally a sterling silver core with a thin plating of nine carat gold. That

is relatively easy to identify as the XRF reads straight through the gold plating to the silver. However, we are sometimes faced with silver items, plated with a higher purity such as 18 carat gold, which can skew the result and therefore they require a much more detailed level of analysis. This also applies to products with a sterling silver core, plated with a fine silver plating. We always have to be sure we assess the silver content of the product under the fine silver plating correctly so that the appropriate hallmark is applied. “The most recent big challenge is the trend for ‘bonded gold’, which has been developed for the US market. This has really made us think! It is normally gold laid on top of silver, but may also have a base metal core. The gold layer is much thicker than in gold-plated, or rolled gold items – usually around 10 per cent of the thickness, making it more difficult to detect the metal underneath. “Diamond-cut bonded gold merchandise is easily detected, as the silver surface is exposed to the naked eye as a result of the diamond cutting process. But that’s not always the case. All we can usually see is the outer gold layer, so we have to assay

Jewellery FOCUS

A day at the Office FOCUS ON THE EXPERT

these items very carefully to determine exactly what is underneath. Bonded gold differs from rolled gold in so far as the two layers of precious metal are actually metallurgically bonded together due to the heat and pressure used during the bonding process. Apart from that, this is a similar product to rolled gold, where the outer layer is rolled onto the silver but the two metals remain entirely separate. Most bonded gold items require a tiny surface area to be removed in order for the XRF instrument to accurately read the sterling silver content below. The surface area affected is not visible. “We also need to assess the outer gold layer to identify what fineness it is. This is usually done by touch acid testing, confirmed by XRF, before we explore to see what is underneath. The article cannot legally be described as bonded gold if the fineness falls below the lowest acceptable gold standard in the UK, ie 375 parts per thousand (ppt) or nine carat.” Once the assayers have determined the precious metal content, the article is passed through for hallmarking. There has been a lot of discussion as to how such products should be hallmarked, as bonded gold is not specifically mentioned in the Hallmarking Act of

1973, although rolled gold and plated gold are. There is a tendency for manufacturers in other countries with less rigorous hallmarking systems than the UK to apply 9K marks to indicate the outer coating is nine carat, but this is very misleading to the consumer. After legal consideration by the Trading Standards authorities and the British Hallmarking Council, guidance was issued in early April 2012 that the same rules must apply for bonded gold as already exist for rolled and gold plated items. Bonded gold on sterling silver items is therefore marked with a full sterling silver hallmark, but with no reference to the fineness of the gold. Bonded gold on base metal cannot carry a UK hallmark. A gold fineness mark (not hallmark) is allowed if it is immediately preceded or followed by the words ‘bonded gold’, ‘rolled gold’ or ‘gold plated’. For example, an article with a silver hallmark (or 925 stamp on underweight articles) can be marked as follows: 925 & 18ct bonded gold/ rolled gold/gold plated. Without this additional information neither the retailer nor the consumer, nor indeed the experienced assayer, can tell by eye whether the item is bonded, rolled or plated, or what the core metal is.

Diana Donnelly

Diana has in-depth specialist skills and 15 years of experience in sampling, touch acid testing, XRF operation and hallmarking. The expertise of the assay team is crucial to the hallmarking operation, and as trainer for the department Diana is responsible for training staff and ensuring that her colleagues are aware of any changes and difficult alloys or products to look out for, bonded gold being a prime example. She also carries out regular checks to ensure all XRF machines are providing consistent and accurate results.

The Birmingham Assay Office was founded in 1773 to provide a hallmarking facility to the rapidly expanding local silver trade. Over nearly 240 years it has become established as the largest UK assay office. During the past decade it has expanded its services further, far beyond its statutory assaying and hallmarking duties, and offers independent expert opinion and training on every aspect of the precious metal, jewellery and gemstone trade.

Definitions Gold plated: An article coated with

a thin layer of gold, usually by electroplating. The gold must have a fineness of at least 375ppt and is usually around 175 microns thick.

Rolled gold: A sheet of gold of at

least 375ppt standard sweated or soldered to a sheet or bar of silver or base metal. The proportion of gold alloy to the weight of the entire article is usually less than five per cent.

Bonded gold: A sheet of gold of a

standard not lower than 375ppt brazed to a sheet or bar of silver or base metal, the whole being compressed down together with a resulting thickness of around 10 per cent gold alloy. Heat and pressure form a uniform metallurgical bond.

Jewellery FOCUS

May 2012

SELLING

The needs assessment Moving onwards through the circle of the sale, Brad Huisken turns his attention to the most important part of the process – assessment of customers’ needs

he ‘needs assessment’ process is the single most crucial step in the selling process; but it is also the most frequently missed step. Over the next couple of articles, we will discuss in detail the strategies and techniques within the needs assessment stage. The majority of salespeople seem to be very demonstration driven – by that I mean that they are quick to start demonstrating the merchandise. The average salesperson thinks that all of the action is in the presentation step; whereas the true sales professional realises that the needs assessment step is the key to the entire sales presentation. During a well-planned and implemented needs assessment, the sales pro will learn all of the information needed to make the sale; add on appropriate items; discover if a bump-up is appropriate; and reveal whether there is an emotional reason behind the purchase. In addition you will also continue to build the trust that your prospects have in you and your company. We can all agree that the primary reason that people buy jewellery is to satisfy some emotional need. Jewellery is purchased to show love, commitment, adornment, prestige, status, self-fulfillment, and

Du r i n g a w el l -p l an n ed a nd i m p l e m e nted n eed s a s s e s s m e n t , th e sa l es p ro w i l l l e a rn al l o f th e i n f o rm a ti o n n eed ed to m a ke th e sa l e May 2012

a multitude of other emotion-based reasons. Yet sales presentations are frequently based on the reasons that the salesperson believes are important to the customer, and all too often the assumptions made are totally incorrect.

There are four goals of the needs assessment step. They are: 1. To discover what your prospect needs. 2. To discover why they need it. 3. To discover the add-on items they will need. 4. To continue building trust. All of these goals are vitally important to the selling process, however one of the above goals is far more important than the other three, and it is somewhat unique to the jewellery industry. Take a minute to look at the goals and think which one is the most important. Most people will guess that developing trust is the most important of the goals. Whilst I agree that trust is essential in selling jewellery, the most important goal is discovering ‘why’ the customer is buying jewellery. If you can discover the emotional reason behind the jewellery purchase, and then share in the emotional excitement, I know that accomplishing all of the other goals will become easier. For example, should you discover that the jewellery is being purchased to celebrate an anniversary or birthday, and you can share in how they are celebrating, then the trust will come easier and all of the other information required will fall into place. The quality of the information you are able to discover and the personal relationship formed through focusing

on the emotional reason that the jewellery is being purchased will make it easier to work out ‘what’ the customer needs; potential ‘add-on’ items may be revealed more readily; and the ‘trust’ will definitely be easier to establish. I have said it before and I will re-emphasise it again: when people come into a jewellery store, they are not necessarily looking for jewellery – they are looking for a place and a person to buy the jewellery from! Through sharing in the emotional journey you will let the customer know that you are that person, and your store is that place. While mystery shopping at a jewellery store for a client, I was given a sales presentation that was far too typical; not only for jewellery stores but also for retail stores in general. I told the salesperson that I was looking for a diamond pendant, and he immediately proceeded to show me the merchandise, saying: “Terrific, let me show you what we have.” Pulling out a pendant from the display case, he looked at the price tag and said: “I have this one, which is $2,500. What do you think?” I replied that it was not really what I had in mind, so he put the pendant back, and pulled out another, less expensive one, repeating the same spiel. At that point I said: “No, that is not what I had in mind either, so I think I’ll look around a little bit.” Never once did the salesperson ask me what I had in mind, what the occasion was, who I was shopping for, or what was important in selecting a pendant. He made a total assumption of what I was looking for, and then assumed that the price on the first one must have been too high. Had the

Jewellery FOCUS

SELLING

salesperson asked what was important for me in selecting a diamond pendant, I would have told him that my wife had a 1.5-carat pendant that had been passed down through five generations of her family and that the chain had broken on it and she lost it. She was just heartbroken and I was looking to replace that pendant. So, would the likelihood of making a sale have dramatically increased through asking a couple of questions? There is no doubt! This salesperson chose to let the merchandise drive the presentation, when he should have let the customer drive the presentation through his use of questions, which would ultimately have allowed him to make more sales, of a higher quality. Several articles ago we discussed the process of communication. Through the needs assessment step

it is essential that you respond to the answers the customer gives to the questions you have asked. Again, let me emphasise that your discussions have to be conversational rather than interrogational. Responding to the answers will let the customer know that they were heard; will force you as the salesperson to listen; and will therefore give you all of the ammunition you need.

The following equation is one that every professional salesperson must live by: NA=A/DA or Needs assessment = answers, so demonstrate those answers! There is nothing more important than your prospects’ wants, needs, dreams and concerns. If you can

meet these in your demonstration, I guarantee that more prospects will be saying: “I’ll take it.” Granted, some presentations may need to be more technical than emotional, but let the customer dictate the angle – all customers are different and all sales presentations should be different as well. Top performing salespeople rely on quality questions, and their ability to communicate and tailor each and every sales presentation to the specific issues of the customer, in order to make the sale.

Top perf orming salespeople rely o n qu alit y qu est ions

Author, trainer, consultant and speaker Brad Huisken is president of IAS Training and authored the books and . He developed the PMSA Relationship Selling Program, the PSMC Professional Sales Management Course, the Mystery Shoppers Kit, the Employee Handbook and Policy & Procedures Manual, and the Weekly Sales Training Meeting series, along with aptitude tests and proficiency exams for new hires, current sales staff and sales managers, and the new Weekly Internet Sales Training Series. In addition, he publishes a free weekly newsletter called Sales Insight. For a free subscription or more information, contact IAS Training on 001 800 248 7703, or

Jewellery FOCUS

May 2012

CAD/CAM

Weston Beamor

Computerised design Michael Northcott discovers some of the latest developments in CAD/CAM software and services, and how they can help designers and retailers to cater to customers’ needs

omputer aided design (CAD) has become central in commercial jewellery production in recent years. As the cost of equipment has come down and business owners have become savvier in terms of making use of the technology, the scope for bespoke design has grown. On the other side of the process – computer aided manufacture – the capacity for producing specialist and highly complex designs is no longer the reserve of high-end producers. CAD and CAM have revolutionised the jewellery industry, allowing smaller manufacturers to spring up and demonstrate creativity to rival that of the market’s more established players. This month, Jewellery Focus looks at

May 2012

PP Manufactur ing some of the companies providing CAD and CAM equipment and software, as well as a few of the jewellery designers who are using it to make their innovative designs. Of course, all CAD/CAM processes must begin with a software package capable of rendering the digital designs, and hardware which can produce prototypes. Software developer Gemvision Europe recently announced the latest upgrades to its Matrix 7 and CounterSketch Studio 2.6 software packages. Citing a growing trend in personalised jewellery, Gemvision says Matrix 7 “improves on traditional CAD functionality, giving designers more freedom to create the type

of complex organic design shapes, which are generally only created by hand.” When linked with Gemvision’s Revo 540 Milling system or any other prototyping system, the company’s software can produce wax models of designs quickly and economically. The newest version of CounterSketch Studio – 2.6 – comes with more than 2,500 base models, which designers can modify. The company stresses that the controls available to the customer in the software mean there is an “infinite” number of possible designs and ways to customise. When a piece is fully conceptualised and the design process complete, Gemvision’s partner Stuller can produce the piece with a turnaround of just 14 days

Jewellery FOCUS

CAD/CAM

Gemvisio

Weston B eamor or less, making the process efficient and seamless, especially for the more demanding customer. Also important to Gemvision’s CAD/ CAM process is the ability to provide live pricing throughout the design stage, meaning customers can keep a tight grip on their budget and see exactly how far it will stretch in terms of the complexity of the design. Sales manager for Gemvision Europe, Graham Dicks, says: “The profile of customers looking to buy, say, engagement rings, is very different today. They are increasingly technology savvy, with online purchasing being second nature. They expect to browse cutting edge websites for buying ideas and look for computer screens they can interact with in-store. “Successful retailers will be the ones who adapt to this new generation of potential customers and embrace new technology. Matrix and CounterSketch give retailers that opportunity – with CounterSketch, any member of staff can use the software to work with their customers to create a truly unique and personalised piece, which can be delivered in just a couple of weeks.” One early adopter of CAD/CAM processes was PP Manufacturing, a company which prides itself on

Jewellery FOCUS

being able to offer the whole range of services, “from concept to completion.” Operating out of its Hatton Garden premises, the company says that thanks to CAD/CAM it is now able to lean on the capabilities of the technology and “help with projects that have been problematic in the past.” The business has been using CAD and CAM for a number of years, and emphasises that it embraced the technology early to get ahead of the game. In the CAD stage, PP Manufacturing produces photo-realistic renders of jewellery designs for the customer to approve, including anything from an engagement ring to a complex bespoke design for an individual project undertaken by the retailer. Following approval of the design, the company will offer clients wax milling and printing to provide wax replicas of the commission, all performed in the workshop. Using a Revo Mill and a SOLIDSCAPE T66, which prints the wax, the company can produce semihollow items, fancy back holes in rings and many other unique features that

a particular project may require at the prototype stage. “This gives us the best turnaround times possible as we have complete control over the whole process and do not have to rely on outsourcing work,” the company explains. “Using CAD/ CAM provides us with greater freedom to design pieces the way they were meant to be, allowing us to cut the time and cost of manufacturing jewellery the traditional way, and giving the customer what they truly want.” Traditional precious metal casting house Weston Beamor was founded in 1947. The company continues to offer its customers casting across gold alloys, platinum, palladium and silver, but since 2001 it has also been using CAD design and ‘rapid prototyping’. While offering a CAD/CAM design service for customers who “need a piece making that can’t be bought off the shelf, and making use of its own CAD experts, the company also provides a rapid prototyping service for customers who have their own CAD software and may have designed their own pieces. The rapid prototyping service at Weston Beamor is unique as far as the UK market is concerned, as it is the only jewellery company in the UK to own a 3D Systems Viper Stereolithography (SLA) rapid prototyping machine. As Weston Beamor explains, the system works by exposing a UV light sensitive resin to an accurately positioned solid-state UV laser beam. Wherever the laser beam touches the resin, the material is instantly changed from a liquid into a solid. By solidifying successive layers of material, parts are manufactured. The system uses a layer thickness of 25 microns (0.025 millimetres). The models can then be used to produce silicon moulds, meaning customers can get multiple copies of the same piece from a single prototype. This reduces costs dramatically for retailers who might discover a bespoke design is actually very popular; once a mould is produced it is possible to re-order the pattern any time in the future without having to produce an expensive new prototype and mould. As software and prototyping tools become more accessible, the service available to retailers and, ultimately, customers is ever-improving.

Supplier listing Gemvision Europe: 0113 389 9710 or www.gemvision.com PP Manufacturing: 0207 404 3331 or www.ppmanufacturing.co.uk Weston Beamor: 0121 678 4131 or rp@westonbeamor.co.uk

May 2012

CAD/CAM

� Cad-Man provides computer aided services to jewellery retailers, manufacturers and designer-makers alike. The company will supply CAD files as well as a full manufacturing service, which even includes the supply of stones if required. While Cad-Man’s main focus is producing one-off pieces for clients, it is also growing its online presence dramatically. Cad-Man owner Theo Ioannou says that the company is becoming better known as a supplier of high quality, downloadable ‘stl’ jewellery files, a growing collection of which can be found on its website. Information: 0207 430 1317 or www.cad-man.co.uk

 Mouse Jeweller creates its own unique designs using a mixture of the latest in next-generation CAD and traditional artistry. Designs combine “sculptural and natural form, including the much-loved Art Nouveau style with a fantastical twist.” As well as creating its own range, Mouse Jeweller offers a design and digitising service, “bridging the gap between the sketch pad, the computer and the work bench.” The company also produces designs from scratch, emphasising that it does not have to rely on pre-made designs.

CAD

showcase

Information: 01983 882 856, info@mousejeweller.co.uk or www.mousejeweller.co.uk

 Niagara Falls Castings (NFC) uses a range of software such as ArtCam JewelSmith and Rhino to create CAD models and has invested in state-of-the-art rapid prototyping equipment including two four-axis milling machines and a Solidscape T76+ wax printer. NFC can provide a complete service from initial design to casting, and models can be created from scratch using customers’ initial design sketches or drawings. The company also offers a competitive bureau service for customers with their own software who only require a wax to be built and cast, and it can provide advice to designers exploring the possible use of CAD/CAM in their projects. Information: 01926 496 258, sales@nf-castings.co.uk or www.nf-castings.co.uk

May 2012

Jewellery FOCUS

May 2012

Case study

Going the extra mile These days it is essential to offer added value in the retail environment, and Joe Walsh outlines the approach that Laings of Glasgow has taken in ensuring its customer service offering stands out from the crowd

n today’s uncertain economic environment, it is vital that the jewellery industry invests in the provision of added value services for its customers. Now more than ever, shoppers are looking for a good deal and want to know that they are getting value for their hard earned money. However, it is essential that the luxury jewellery and watch sector is not devalued by retailers selling cheap goods. Instead, the savvy jewellery retailer should look to offer customers a unique shopping experience through extra services, such as valuation days, insurance and interest-free credit agreements, along with a high level of customer engagement. Increasingly in this age of technology, jewellery shoppers

Stores should look to capitalise on their unique selling point, which trumps online shopping every time – superior customer service

May 2012

are looking to online retailers for their purchases. Of course, having an online presence is essential, but stores should look to capitalise on their unique selling point, which trumps online shopping every time – superior customer service. At Laings of Glasgow, we pride ourselves on offering every member of staff a high level of training to ensure their product knowledge is second to none. In both of our two stores within the Argyll Arcade in Glasgow we have dedicated, comfortable areas set aside for customers to sit down with a sales advisor and take time to look at the pieces they are interested in, whether it be an engagement ring or a Rolex watch, and to discuss their requirements. This one-to-one service and personal touch is something that cannot be achieved with online transactions. Laings of Glasgow is a long-standing symbol of quality in the city and has been trading for over 150 years. The business has a rich history and has been situated within the prestigious Argyll Arcade since the early 1970s. We are in a unique

Jewellery FOCUS

Case study

position to offer our customers the benefits of this wealth of experience in the industry, and we know that they appreciate the vast knowledge that has been passed down through the six generations of Laings directors. To give customers the best quality jewellery or watch buying experience possible, added value services are an essential tool in the retailer’s kit. The aim is to have customers walking out of the store with complete peace of mind, knowing they have purchased a quality product, received the very best customer service and have been offered a variety of added benefits. Laings of Glasgow offers customers product insurance on all items, providing cover in the event of theft or accidental damage. In addition, given the current economic climate, many of our customers like to take advantage of the interestfree credit service that we offer on selected pieces. Depending on the individual agreement, this could allow a buyer to ‘pay up’ their purchase across 12, 18 or 36 monthly instalments, or even make use of a ‘buy now, pay later’ agreement of up to 12 months. This could be the perfect solution for someone looking to propose to their partner, invest in a truly special gift or simply treat themselves. Of course, it is not as simple as walking into a store and buying the perfect piece of jewellery or watch. Most people require rings to be sized or watches to have links removed or added, and this is a service that the majority of shops offer to add value to the purchase. At Laings of Glasgow, we also have a bespoke watch repair service that has been certified by many of the large luxury brands, including Rolex and Cartier. This means that buyers can bring back their purchases for repair if they are still under warranty and be secure in the knowledge that their watches are in the very best expert hands. Once or twice a year, Laings of Glasgow also hosts valuation days to give our customers the opportunity to bring in watches or jewellery and discuss what level of insurance they require. We set aside a couple of days and bring in a qualified valuation expert from the Guild of Valuers to host the in-store event, and allow customers to book in time slots. This is not limited to pieces purchased at Laings of Glasgow, and we often find that customers take advantage of the opportunity to get older items valued, which have perhaps been in their family for some time. Our own in-house designer can also offer a unique opportunity for buyers – the chance to design their own piece of jewellery. Whether this is an engagement ring that is designed from scratch for a loved one, or a special item that the customer would like re-worked into another piece of jewellery, for example the stone of a cherished ring set into a necklace, there are a wealth of options that can be discussed with our designer.

The aim is to have customers walking out of the store knowing they have purchased a quality product, received the very best customer service and have been offered a variety of added benefits Communication is an essential element of any retail business, and Laings of Glasgow is always looking for new ways to connect with customers. We have set up a Facebook page and a Twitter profile to make sure that we are engaging with stakeholders on a regular basis, and to keep the Laings name at the front of people’s minds. Both communication channels are ideal for chatty, informal updates about the business, from in-store promotions and the arrival of new brands, to photos of celebrities wearing items that we sell and links to media articles about the business. In a technology-led world where people get their information through their laptops and smartphones, we think it is vital to have a presence on social media sites. In addition to social media, we also take full advantage of the more ‘traditional’ approaches to communicating with our customers, with newsletters, a regular magalogue (combined catalogue and magazine) and our website (www.laingsglasgow.com). The retail environment is changing and with more and more competition it is essential that jewellery and watch retailers seek to capitalise on their own unique selling points – be that added value offerings or superior customer service. At Laings of Glasgow, we know that our rich heritage and experience in the industry sets us apart from the competition, but we always strive to be the best we can be and explore new opportunities for growth and improvement.

Joe Walsh is a director at Laings of Glasgow, one of the city’s oldest family jewellers. Laings of Glasgow, which has two units within the Argyll Arcade, opened a brand new £1.5 million flagship store in November 2011. It also recently revived the renowned Robert Stewart brand by opening a third store, trading under the Robert Stewart name.

Jewellery FOCUS

May 2012

DATA

Prices • Figures • Outlook Retail sales volume: February 2012

Metal Prices £/Unit

Feb 12

Mar 12

Apr 12

% Change

The value of retail sales in February 2012 showed an increase 3.2 per cent higher than February 2011, whilst sales volumes in February 2012 increased by one per cent when compared with February 2011. Sales volumes were driven mostly by non-store retailing, predominantly food stores and non-specialised stores. February’s year-on-year implied price deflator rose to 2.4 per cent from 2.2 per cent in January 2012. During February, retailing sales volumes increased by one per cent compared with February 2011, and decreased by 0.8 per cent compared with January 2012. All retail sales values saw an increase of 3.2 per cent compared with February 2011 and decreased by 0.4 per cent compared with January 2012. Only the predominantly food store sector saw a sales value increase. While retail sales values have fallen in the latest month, the graph demonstrates that when comparing the levels of value and volume on all retail, the underlying longer term movement within the series is one of growth. In February 2012 an estimated £24.6 billion was spent in the retail sector on the whole, compared to £24.4 billion in January 2012 and £23.9 billion in February 2011. Sales volumes of predominantly non-food stores in February 2012 are unchanged from sales volumes in February 2011, while the value of sales increased by just 0.1 per cent. In February 2012 an estimated £9.4 billion was spent in the predominantly non-food store sector. Source: ONS

Sterling Silver £/Kg

634.18

640.30

597.50

Minus 7%

Gold £/g

35.24

34.47

33.32

Minus 3%

Palladium £/g

14.21

14.12

13.05

Minus 8%

Platinum £/g

33.21

33.64

32.68

Minus 3%

Rhodium £/g

30.81

31.11

28.14

Minus 10%

Iridium £/g

22.19

22.13

22.01

Minus 1%

Ruthenium £/g

2.56

2.65

2.35

Minus 11%

Scrap Metal £/Unit

Feb 11

Mar 12

Apr 12

% Change

Sterling Silver Scrap £/Kg

595.44

601.19

561

Minus 7%

9ct Gold Scrap £/g

12.75

12.47

12.06

Minus 3%

14ct Gold Scrap £/g

19.90

19.46

18.81

Minus 3%

18ct Gold Scrap £/g

25.51

24.95

24.11

Minus 3%

22ct Gold Scrap £/g

31.15

30.47

29.45

Minus 3%

Platinum (95%) Scrap £/g

26.81

27.16

26.39

Minus 3%

Data supplied courtesy of Cookson Precious Metals. www.cooksongold.com All prices shown on this page enjoy indicative status only. Jewellery Focus and Cookson Precious Metals accepts no responsibility for their accuracy or for any use to which they may be put

Diamond prices Weight

G/VVS

G/SI

J/VVS

J/SI

J/I1

0.05 Carat

1,745

960

1,204

873

768

0.10 Carat

1,675

1,069

1,616

957

718

0.25 Carat

2,708

1,496

2,263

1,272

868

0.50 Carat

7,375

3,326

4,700

2,892

2,458

0.75 Carat

9,076

5,445

5,934

4,049

3,211

1.00 Carat

16,022

8,482

10,687

6,867

4,443

The table above has been prepared by SafeGuard and is an average of the retail selling prices of round brilliant cut diamonds per carat including an average retail markup and VAT. There is no allowance for the mount but the prices have been taken from mounted goods prices. The table is also compared with International diamond prices for additional accuracy. Compiled at 2nd April 2012 /Dollar Exchange Rate 1.6043

May 2012

Jewellery FOCUS

DATA

Hallmark figures - Mar 2012 Month Mar 11 Month Mar 12

Hallmark figures - Quarter 1 2012

Variance

Silver

Variance

Silver 999 958 925 800

1,654 875 479,204 41 481,774

2,269 187 363,781 232 366,469

615 -688 -115,423 191 -115,305

37.2 -78.6 -24.1 465.9 -23.9

47 11 26,859 72,867 11,544 262,612 373,940

45 0 32,235 68,052 5,580 223,490 329,402

-2 -11 5,376 -4,815 -5,964 -39,122 -44,538

-4.3 -100 20 -6.6 -51.7 -14.9 -11.9

59 24,403 5 1 24,468

9 23,736 4 3 23,752

-50 -667 -1 2 -716

-84.7 -2.7 -20 200 -2.9

506 11,873 801 13,180

2 13,221 1,573 14,796

-504 1,348 772 1,616

-99.6 11.4 96.4 12.3

893,362

734,419

-158,943

-17.8

Gold

999 958 925 800

2,524 2,099 1,633,269 52 1,637,944

4,199 1,198 1,043,873 238 1,049,508

1,675 -901 -589,396 186 -588,436

66.4 -42.9 -36.1 357.7 -35.9

217 26 81,265 194,096 57,836 728,809 1,062,249

355 7 85,826 168,561 16,585 614,977 886,311

138 -19 4,561 -25,535 -41,251 -113,832 -175,938

63.6 -73.1 5.6 -13.2 -71.3 -15.6 -16.6

66 61,552 14 20 61,652

37 62,605 19 5 62,666

-29 1,053 5 -15 1,014

-43.9 1.7 35.7 -75 1.6

507 29,601 1,294 31,402

2 27,996 2,289 30,287

-505 -1,605 995 -1,115

-99.6 -5.4 76.9 -3.6

2,793,247

2,028,772

-764,475

-27.4

Gold 999 990 916 750 585 375

Platinum

999 990 916 750 585 375 Platinum

999 950 900 850 Palladium 999 950 500

Total

Quarter Mar 11 Quarter Mar 12

High precious metal prices and the squeeze on consumer spending once again contributed to the decline in the total number of units hallmarked across the four UK assay offices in the quarter ended 31 March 2012, with a total reduction of 27.4 per cent representing a drop of 764,475 units. Sterling silver bore the brunt of the decline â&#x20AC;&#x201C; down 35.9 per cent; a reduction of 588,436 units in the quarter. Gold articles fared better than silver with a reduction of 16.6 per cent, while platinum saw a small increase of 1.6 per cent and palladium was 3.6 per cent down. Source: Birmingham Assay Office

Jewellery FOCUS

999 950 900 850 Palladium 999 950 500

Total

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May 2012

Your Views

Voice

onthe

highstreet

Sabrina Burley,

sales manager, CRED Jewellery

CRED is a Fairtrade jeweller. Has this always been the case and how did the company start? CRED has been a pioneer in ethical jewellery since 1996, since we moved our focus from campaigning to creating a business model to support the transparent supply of gold. We sought out partnerships with the Oro Verde mine, working with them for many years developing standards which were then used as the basis for the Fairtrade and Fairmined mark for gold, launched in early 2011. We were the first European retailer to sell independently certified Fairtrade and Fairmined gold, and the first high street boutique to exclusively sell ethical jewellery. We continue to campaign for a similar mark for diamonds and precious stones, and are actively working towards Fairtrade gold in Africa.

What does being a Fairtrade jeweller actually entail?

It means that all of our customers have the assurance that the gold and stones are met by the highest ethical criteria.

Along with the ethical criteria, what does CRED look for in selecting designers to stock?

We look for designers who meet our ethical criteria; designs that meet the demand of our customer base; and products that represent good value for money.

You have a boutique in Chichester and a studio in London. How beneficial has it been to have both, and are there plans to open anywhere else? Both locations have been very beneficial to us. London has been a great central point for us to meet with our customers who travel from across the UK and overseas. We have exciting developments this year, but have no plans to open any further outlets at the moment.

Aside from jewellery retail, what other services do you offer?

As main importers of Fairtrade gold, we sell Fairtrade and Fairmined gold bullion into the marketplace. As a Company of Master Jewellers registered supplier, we also offer a wholesale service supplying Fairtrade wedding rings from CRED, enabling the development in the marketplace through independent jewellers. CRED is recognised as the pioneer of the ethical movement within the jewellery industry.

May 2012

What is your best selling piece or collection?

Our CRED wedding rings. Customers love the fact that they know the gold in their rings has been mined responsibly and that they get the certification mark on the inside of their rings as proof. Wedding rings are a symbol of love – and Fairtrade gold reinforces that. Consumers are becoming more aware that responsibly sourced material is a priority when they make a purchase.

How far would you say your online presence has helped the business? In the last 12 months we have completely re-vamped our website and improved our social networking sites. CRED customers love telling others about their rings, and Twitter and Facebook help them to share their photos and views. Our website enables customers to book appointments as well as buy directly and browse designs. We are currently getting visitors from over 109 different countries. Interestingly, after London, the next most interested cities are Wolverhampton and Bristol.

Where do you see CRED in 10 years?

To have been responsible for the transformation of the jewellery industry in the UK – to encourage responsible sourcing of all precious metals, gemstones and diamonds.

What do you enjoy most about working in the jewellery industry?

Apart from working with jewellery and diamonds – as they are of course a girl’s best friend! – it’s about knowing we have an impact on the lives of the people who supply our materials. In the 12 months since the launch of Fairtrade and Fairmined gold, one of our gold mines has received $75,000 (£47,107) in social premiums. This money has been put towards improved education, health, sanitation and general standards of living, in what was a very poor community. This social justice is a great cause and motivates us all here at CRED, knowing every day and every product sold is worthwhile and changing lives for good.

Jewellery FOCUS