Jewellery Focus June 2011

Jewellery June 2011 www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk £4.95 ISSN 2046-7265

FOCUS

Diamond special issue: jewellery designs of varying price points to achieve shopfloor sparkle XX How to reduce crime risk by improving the security of your store at little or no cost XX Also inside: tips for targeting the complex yet lucrative teenage consumer market

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CONTENTS

Jewellery June 2011

FOCUS

DIAMOND SPECIAL Keith Fisher

16

They may not be to everyone’s taste, but the market for men’s diamond watches is burgeoning, says Keith

Added sparkle

20

A selection of stunning diamond designs at a variety of price points to add a touch of glamour to your display cabinets

Buying-power

24

32

Louise Hoffman speaks with Gerard Keane, diamond buyer for Keanes Jewellers in Ireland, to hear about his work, his business and his market predictions

Finishing touches

30

26

Looking for loose diamonds to create your fine jewellery designs? Here you will find a few companies that can help

20

Set in stone

26

28

Newly-elected London Diamond Bourse president Harry Levy shares his thoughts on his career and the diamond industry with Louise Hoffman

How do they do that?

30

Anu Manchanda, AnchorCert senior gemmologist, discusses the processes involved in transforming a rough diamond into a polished diamond

Fairtrade phenomena

24 32

Louise Hoffman catches up with CRED Foundation founder Greg Valerio to hear about a new project on the Fairtrade horizon

Sam Willoughby

34

This month Sam speaks to trade representatives to find out the secrets to success in selling fine jewellery such as diamonds

20

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE Editor’s letter Roundup

6 8

The latest news from the industry

Janet Fitch

Evocative of the hot summer sun and golden sandy beaches, gold is a material and colour of choice this season, as Janet demonstrates

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18

Treasured mementos

36

Rebecca Hoh finds out why commemorative and memento mori inspired jewellery is a perfect stock choice in the current market

Michael Hoare

42

With their popularity continuing into the summer season, stacking rings offer huge benefits for customers and retailers alike, discovers Jon Chapple Laura Johnson speaks to five jewellery suppliers who are catering to the demanding and complex, yet lucrative and exciting teenage market

40

Turning his attention to the Government’s Red Tape Challenge, Michael comments on the battle to save the hallmark

Louise Hoffman catches up with Nicola Bond, having been introduced to her Saudi Arabian souk and sunset inspired jewellery at this year’s Spring Fair

New offerings from the industry

50

52

This month, Leonard explains the logic and reasoning behind add-on sales, to dispel some common misconceptions

48

50

The four Cs of security

54

Data

56

Events

58

Voice on the highstreet

66

Metropolitan Police crime prevention co-ordinator Mark Beale examines some of the key areas in which jewellers can improve their security, often for little or no cost

44

Designer of the month

Taking stock

Leonard Zell

Youth culture 44

Ones to watch

Trends in timepieces

Focus on stack rings

Steven Cooper of Aurora Jewellery, Orkney

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EDITOR’S LETTER

Editor’s letter W

hile the jewellery market is, of course, troubled by the economic climate, and the emphasis has been firmly placed upon making products more affordable for the consumer by minimising use of gold and, now, silver, one must not forget that there is still a place for luxury.

Financial situations will vary from customer to customer, as indeed they always have, but even your average customer – grappling with budget cuts, tax rises and salary freezes – will be looking for an occasional, well-deserved treat. Not only this, but the wedding and engagement ring sector has proven itself to operate more or less independently of the rest of the market, with couples still determined to mark their union with platinum, palladium, gold and diamonds, as well as bespoke, personalised designs.

This month, therefore, Jewellery Focus takes diamonds as its main subject matter, presenting a selection of the latest diamond jewellery designs across a range of price points to help you add a touch of glamour to your display cabinet shelves, while also keeping your target consumer in mind (page 20). If it is loose diamonds you are seeking, you will find details of several suppliers on page 26.

In keeping with this theme, I caught up with three key figures in the jewellery sector – each involved in a different aspect of the diamond industry: Harry Levy – now London Diamond Bourse president – took some time out of his busy schedule to discuss his career and views (page 28); Gerard Keane, of prestigious family firm Keanes Jewellers, explained more about his retail business and the essential qualities of a successful diamond buyer (page 24); and last but not least, Greg Valerio of the CRED Foundation updated me on the latest news from the Fairtrade camp (page 32).

You will also find advice for the selling of fine jewellery such as diamonds – courtesy of Martin Rapaport and Nathalie Kabiri, among others – in Sam Willoughby’s column on page 34; a behind-the-scenes look at the transformation of a rough diamond into a finished, polished stone (page 30); and a host of other, non-diamond-related features in the pages that follow.

I hope you enjoy the magazine and the month ahead.

This month’s cover features CHAMILIA

Chamilia is one of the fastest growing personalised accessory brands in the world, creating innovative jewellery for women with an eye for fashion. The constantly evolving Chamilia collection includes bracelets, necklaces and earrings designed to complement the handcrafted .925 sterling silver, 14 carat gold, Swarovski crystal, coloured stone and Italian Murano glass beads. This month’s Jewellery Focus cover features jewellery from Chamilia’s new Spring Collection 2011. The company says the collection features “beads with dazzling sparkle, feminine springtime floral colours and glowing Murano gold,” and includes the new Floral Collection, the Handbag Bead Collection, and new designs featuring Murano glass and Swarovski elements. Chamilia is sold through chain and independent jewellery retailers and boutiques in the US, UK, Europe, Canada, Australia and the Caribbean. Please contact the company to find out more about its collection and retailer programmes.

Information: 0844 811 2142, chamiliauk@chamilia.com or www.chamilia.com

Jewellery FOCUS

Editor Louise Hoffman

louise@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Editorial Assistant Jon Chapple jon@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Production Assistant Lewis Bowes copy@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Group Advertisement Manager Kelly Smith kelly@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Senior Sales Executive Katharine Opyrchal katharine@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Accounts Maureen Scrivener

accounts@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Customer Services 01206 767 797

customers@mulberrypublications.co.uk

Contributing writers: Anu Manchanda • Janet Fitch Keith Fisher • Laura Johnson Leonard Zell • Mark Beale Michael Hoare • Rebecca Hoh Sam Willoughby

Design Arthouse Publishing Solutions Ltd 01394 410 490 contact@arthousepublishing.co.uk

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Jewellery Focus

ISSN 2046-7265 is published monthly by:

Mulberry Publications Ltd, Wellington House, Butt Road, Colchester CO3 3DA Tel: 01206 767 797 Fax: 01206 767 532 www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk

The editor and publishers do not guarantee the accuracy of statements made by contributors or advertisers, or accept responsibility for any statement that they express in this publication.

The opinion of the contributors may not necessarily be the opinion of the publishers. Articles are considered for publication on the basis that they are the author’s original work. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the permission of the publishers.

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ROUNDUP

And briefly Indian diamond industry set for 100 per cent growth The Indian diamond industry, long hailed as one of the next big players in worldwide jewellery markets, is set to grow by 100 per cent over the next two years, industry experts are predicting. Insiders believe that an increase in demand for diamonds, both domestically and from China, the US and UAE, means India is seeing a boost in value of its polished gemstones.

Chandrakant Sanghavi, regional director of India’s Gems and Jewellery Export Promotion Council, confirmed that there has been a “phenomenal growth” in the state’s diamond sector following 2008’s global recession.

Hallmarking down again in April The total number of units hallmarked in April fell, year-on-year, by 34.2 per cent, according to data released last month

by Britain’s four assay offices. Overall, all precious metal categories showed a decline, including sterling silver.

Gary Williams joins Mastermelt Gary Williams, the vice chairman of the British Jewellers’ Association and former director of Brown & Newirth, has announced his return to the mainstream trade, as director of sales and marketing with precious metal reclamation company Mastermelt Ltd. “I was on the verge of going back into manufacturing, but decided that this opportunity was simply too good to miss,” he said.

Jewellery Showcase to celebrate London glassblowing To celebrate this month’s London Jewellery Week, Peter Layton’s London Glassblowing studio and gallery is to stage an exhibition spotlighting Britain’s leading designers of glass jewellery. The Jewellery Showcase will feature handmade pieces by a range of designer-makers, including Julie Fountain, Amanda Muddimer, Gill Rogers and Rachel Elliot.

Business stays loyal to watches Recent speculation that mobile phones are replacing watches as the preferred way of telling the time is disputed by British bosses, according to a study released by WatchShop.com and TheLadders.co.uk. The survey revealed that, despite the onslaught of technology, 56 per cent of executives still use a watch to tell the time in meetings, while 69 per cent say that they prefer a watch to a mobile device to set their daily routine by. Additionally, 88 per cent of senior managers believe it is unprofessional to have a mobile in meetings.

Kim Poor working with lost Burle-Marx gems A Belgravia-based Brazilian artist and jewellery designer is launching a collection created from the very last stones that once belonged to legendary designer and gemmologist Haroldo Burle-Marx. The gems – which yield a rainbow of colours, including iridescent aquamarines, rich purples and deep citrines – were passed on by Burle-Marx’s granddaughter to Kim Poor, who has created the Burle-Marx collection from them. Poor commented that it was “a privilege to work with such exceptional raw materials.”

LDB board appoints new president and vice president The London Diamond Bourse (LDB) has announced that, following the death of its president Freddy Hager on the 7 April, the LDB council of management has been reformed and a new president and vice president appointed.

Harry Levy, who had served several terms as vice president under Mr Hager in the past, said he was “sad, but honoured” to replace the president until the next elections at the bourse, due to take place in spring of 2012.

“Freddy was first of all a friend, and losing a good friend is very difficult,” said Levy. “The council and I will do our best to uphold Freddy’s high standards.”

World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) president Avi Paz also welcomed the LDB appointment, wishing Harry Levy well in his new position: “Harry also succeeds Freddy on the WFDB’s executive committee, and we wish him best of luck in his new responsibilities.”

Menachem E Prager will take up the role of vice president.

Swiss watch brands under threat?

The future of a number of mid-market Swiss-made watch brands may be under threat if repeated calls for tighter regulations on the number of non-Swiss components allowed are successful, a report by Bloomberg has suggested.

The financial services company cited the example of official Swiss Railways watchmaker Mondaine, whose co-owner Ronnie Bernheim has claimed may have to shut a £7 million, two-year-old factory if claims from larger rivals that its watches simply “aren’t Swiss enough” were to become enshrined in law.

Since 1971, Swiss watchmakers have been allowed to use non-Swiss components for less than 50 per cent of the value of their watches’ movements. However, in 2007 the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry – which includes companies such Swatch Group and Richemont – asked the Swiss government to add higher requirements on the use of Swiss components in the value of the entire timepiece, with the government proposing a new minimum of 60 per cent. JeanDaniel Pasche, the head of the group, said a final decision could be made next year.

Bernheim added that the proposed rule changes would threaten jobs at producers of less expensive Swiss watches. Swiss-made watches were the country’s fastest-growing exports last year, and make up “one of the few manufacturing industries that have resisted a full shift of production to Asia,” according to Bloomberg.

“This law would be cutting the industry into two,” Bernheim continued in an interview in Basel. “The volume business will be killed, except for the big companies. Our foreign competitors are laughing.”

No strong recovery for some time yet, industry experts warn The UK economy will continue to make headway in 2011, but growth will be patchy and slow, according to the Confederation of British Industry’s (CBI) latest economic forecast.

Despite a squeeze on household income, and public spending cuts, the CBI expects this year’s GDP growth rate to be 1.7 per cent – marginally lower than the previous forecast of 1.8 per cent. Growth of 2.2 per cent is expected in 2012; down slightly from February’s forecast of 2.3 per cent.

Stronger net exports are expected to make an important contribution to the UK economy both this year and next, while business investment is also expected to help drive economic growth. Survey evidence shows historically strong investment intentions, with growth of 8.8 per cent in 2011 and 8.7 per cent in 2012 forecast.

“Although there are a number of risks to the UK’s economic outlook, we continue to expect that the recovery will make further headway this year and next, but the pace will be sluggish,” said John Cridland, the CBI’s director general. “The economy is battling headwinds of squeezed household budgets, weak wage growth, high inflation and necessary public spending cuts. Concerns also remain over the volatility of oil prices, and the impact of the earthquake in Japan on UK supply chains.

“But there are some brighter spots in the forecast. Global economic conditions remain upbeat, and we expect to see a stronger performance by UK exporters. Business investment will also make a firm contribution to growth in 2011 and 2012. But the rebalancing of the economy is going to take time to feed through, and domestically it may not feel like much of a recovery for some time yet.”

Roundup

Celebrity endorsement

Birmingham Assay Office seeks new Jewellery Quarter premises The Birmingham Assay Office has reported that it is seeking a new site in the city’s famous Jewellery Quarter, in order to “fully develop [its] potential in the 21st century.”

After nearly 135 years in its current home in Newhall Street, the wardens of the Assay Office have made the decision to leave the current Grade-II-listed Victorian premises and find a larger, more suitable site elsewhere, citing a future secured by a recent surge in support for keeping hallmarking regulations as they are.

“The Government is currently questioning the need for hallmarking as part of its ‘Red Tape Challenge’,” said the Assay Office’s chairman, Kay Alexander, “and so far, the response has been an emphatic ‘keep it’; reinforcing our view that the British public and trade still respect and value the worth of statutory hallmarking, as it protects both the consumer and the honest trader.

“The Birmingham Assay Office believes it has a long and solid future supporting the jewellery trade, both in the Birmingham Jewellery Quarter and throughout the world. As guardians of the Assay Office, we have a responsibility to ensure its continued commercial viability in order for it to survive and continue to protect the consumer and support the trade.

“Our objective is that, by 2013, we will be ready to face the next 100 years in a new building that is cleaner, greener, more accessible to everyone, and which fully reflects our heritage, our status and our ambition.”

Jessica Alba, Piaget Building on the success of its previous celebrity collaborations, Swiss jeweller Piaget has appointed Sin City actress Jessica Alba as an ambassador for its Possession collection.

To create the latest imagery for the Possession line, Piaget commissioned acclaimed photographer Patrick Demarchelier, stylists Brad Goreski and Renato Campora and make-up artist Lauren Andersen, who produced a range of shots and an interactive behind-thescenes video of Alba modelling different items from the collection. The brand has promoted the campaign via its official website and Facebook page.

Gorenski described Alba as “modern, young, cool and beautiful,” and declared: “I think Jessica’s the perfect face of Piaget.”

Catherine sparkles in Robinson Pelham and Cartier jewellery

Cpl Dylan Browne / MoD

Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Cambridge wowed crowds at her April wedding to Prince William of Wales with jewellery from Cartier and Robinson Pelham.

The former Kate Middleton, who married the second in line to the throne on the 29 April, wore a 1936 diamond Cartier tiara lent to her by HM the Queen and a pair of handmade diamond earrings designed especially by Robinson Pelham Jewellers for the occasion.

Commissioned by the Duchess’s parents, Michael and Carole Middleton, and given to their daughter as a wedding present, the earrings are diamond-set stylised oak leaves, with a pear-shaped diamond-set drop and pavé-set diamond acorn suspended in the centre, and take inspiration from the Middleton family’s coat of arms. The company also created a pair of earrings for the maid of honour, Pippa Middleton.

A spokesman for Robinson Pelham said: “We are greatly honoured to have been asked to design and make the jewels for the Middleton family and are delighted to be part of such an exciting and historic occasion. All of us at Robinson Pelham wish their Royal Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge all the happiness for their future lives together.”

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ROUNDUP

Laing the Jeweller enters sixth generation with new director Laing the Jeweller, known as Scotland’s oldest family jeweller, has announced the appointment of Richard Laing as a director – the sixth generation of Laing to head the family business.

Richard’s career with Laing began at the age of 16, when he worked in the Edinburgh Frederick Street store during school holidays.

Learning the foundations of the business, he went on to study retail management, the Professional Jewellers’ Management Diploma and an IGI diamond grading course in Antwerp, before working as a graduate trainee for Lunn’s the Jeweller in Belfast. He joined Laing the Jeweller full time in 2008.

“I’m incredibly proud of the 170-year Laing legacy and excited about taking on a strategic role within the business,” commented Richard.

“I will still be a familiar face on the shopfloor to ensure the best service for our customers, but will be additionally focusing on developing the business for today’s market.”

Michael Laing, managing director, added: “To have a sixth generation of the family take forward the business is a fantastic feeling. The Laing brand in Edinburgh remains strong, and I’m looking forward to seeing Richard take it from strength to strength.”

First details revealed for summer New Designers 2011 event Graduate design showcase New Designers, now in its 26th year, has announced a selection of dates for 2011’s shows.

The popular two-part summer event, which sees some 3,500 new designers come together to present their work at north London’s Business Design Centre, will take place from the 29 June to the 2 July (part one) and from the 6 to the 9 July (part two). In addition, this year’s show boasts a set of new opening times the organisers hope will encourage even more design professionals and members of the public to attend. More details can be found on the website, the address for which is shown below.

It has also been confirmed that Stephen Webster will open part one of the show, and will be presenting a number of awards at the VIP preview evening on the opening night.

Readers of Jewellery Focus are eligible to purchase tickets for just £8.50 (plus £1.50 booking fee), instead of the standard £14 on the door. To take advantage of this special offer, please quote ‘ND63’ when booking in advance by calling 0844 848 0140 or visiting www.newdesigners.com Julia Burness

Janice Zethraeus

Shawish displays “world’s first diamond ring” The 14 April saw London’s fashionable Il Bottaccio venue host The World’s First Diamond Ring; an in-depth animation that charts Geneva-based designer Shawish’s creation of a ring composed entirely of a finished diamond, with the band carved directly into the stone.

The invitation-only event hosted a mix of representatives from London’s fashion and jewellery industries, and the worlds of film, music, television and banking, and a number of attendees from Geneva. Commencing at 7pm with a champagne reception, partygoers also enjoyed canapés, a performing bejewelled acrobat and a speech from compère Geoff Cotton, who explained the diamond’s background.

“A ring made entirely of a faceted diamond has always seemed like a fantasy; it seemed impossible,” said founder Mohamed Shawesh. “So we decided to embark on the adventure of creating it. To create the perfect diamond ring is the epitome of art.”

The evening saw two Shawish bracelets sold at auction, of which 100 per cent of the takings are going to the Libya Foundation for Development.

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ROUNDUP

And briefly BHF-BSSA becomes bira The BHF-BSSA Group, the trade association for independent retailers, has taken on a new name – the British Independent Retailers Association (bira). The new identity was adopted at the Association’s annual general meeting at Lingfield on the 4 May. Welcoming the clearer identity provided by the new name, communications director Michael Weedon commented: “bira is all about communicating. When we speak for independents with government and with the media we will have a simple name and a clear identity. This will help us fulfil our stated aim of being the voice of independent retailers.” CEO Alan Hawkins added: “bira heralds an important new force in the world of independents… bira is here to stay!”

Ulysse Nardin appoints new president and CEO An extraordinary general meeting of Swiss watchmaker Ulysse Nardin has elected Chai Schnyder to become the new president of its board of directors and Patrik P Hoffmann as chief executive officer. The appointments follow the death of incumbent president and CEO Rolf W Schnyder in April. “Thanks to the innovative energy of the company, and in harmony with the intentions of the visionary Rolf W Schnyder and his tireless pioneering spirit, we stand by the strategy of independence,” said Patrik P Hoffmann.

RJC certification for Signet The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has announced Signet Jewelers Limited as a newly-certified member, confirming that the retail jeweller has met the “ethical, human rights, social and environmental standards as established by the RJC’s member certification system.” Ernest Jones, Leslie Davis and H Samuel stores are all part of the Signet portfolio.

RJC chief executive Michael Rae said: “Signet’s certification across its US and UK retail stores will send a strong message that responsible business practices are a necessity for today’s businesses. The RJC warmly congratulates the Signet team on this outstanding effort.”

Insolvencies threaten recovery The latest figures released by the Government’s Insolvency Service agency have revealed a massive 70 per cent increase in wholesale and retail insolvencies in the first quarter of 2011, as compared to Q2 2010. Barry Knight, head of retail at finance and business advisor Grant Thornton UK LLP, commented: “The sector would have largely expected a rise in insolvencies, but the 70 per cent increase on the last quarter will have come as a surprise and is worse than most commentators predicted.” He also warned of the importance of seeking advice when a retailer runs into difficulties, and of “relevant procedures [being] put into place sooner rather than later to avoid administration.”

“Strong trading” at the BCTF Harrogate was bathed in beautiful spring sunshine at this year’s British Craft Trade Fair (BCTF), and organiser Margaret Bunn reported good trading for the show’s 500-plus exhibitors and 150-plus jewellery exhibitors, with over 40 per cent having confirmed their stands for 2012 by the conclusion of the show, which took place from the 3 to the 5 April.

Although attendance was slightly down from the 2010 fair at 4,207, Bunn still praised a “great atmosphere” over the show’s three days and expressed optimism that visitor numbers would recover in 2012. The fair saw a number of designer-makers awarded for excellence in their respective fields, including Anna Calvert as best newcomer and See Sun Yung with the BJA Award for Excellence in Jewellery.

“Although our attendance was slightly less this year – the first time that buyer numbers have been affected by the past three-year recession – the overall attendance was strong, and many buyers attended over all three days of the fair,” said Bunn.

Dates for the next BCTF have been confirmed as the 15 to 17 April 2012.

AIJV awards first senior member certification to Berkshire valuer May saw the Association of Independent Jewellery Valuers (AIJV) present membership certifications to members attending the conference of the Scottish Gemmological Association.

Members present included one valuer from England, one from Scotland and two from the US. Shirley D Mitchell DGA FIRV collected the ‘senior member’ certification on behalf of her Windsor-based jewellery valuation practice. The first such certification given by the AIJV, it is awarded to any member collecting sufficient member status points during the Association’s fiscal year. Points are awarded to members for publicising their own business and those of other members, the AIJV and the profession as a whole, while additional points are awarded for practical assistance given to fellow AIJV members.

“I joined the AIJV because I believe in complete transparency and I am dedicated to providing the best service to my clients and delivering what they need,” commented Mitchell, in response to her certification. “This promotion to senior member confirms that I made the correct decision.”

The other UK valuer to receive member certification was e-Valuate of Edinburgh.

Sashani transforms shop thanks to NSA for Retail workshop A Sevenoaks jeweller has transformed his business using ideas learnt from a National Skills Academy (NSA) for Retail workshop.

Philip Cown, owner of Sashani, attended a ‘Marketing for more customers’ master class at the Learning Shop in Bluewater – one of seven such retail skills shops inspired by television guru Mary Portas – and has begun to implement ideas inspired by the event throughout his shop.

He recently organised a ‘champagne and sparkle’ event, where shoppers were invited to a special drinks reception, and is offering local visual merchandising students from the Learning Shop the opportunity to practise in his shop window. A 21-year-old student from Old Bexley created Sashani’s innovative new candy-themed window display, after being inspired by a range of the shop’s jewellery.

Cown said: “The turnout was fantastic. We put one diamond worth £1,000 at the bottom of a champagne flute and cubic zirconia in the others. There were lots of opportunities to talk to the customers as people got their gems valued to see if they had the diamond.”

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TRENDS

Golden glow Evocative of the hot summer sun and golden sandy beaches, as well as flattering sun-kissed skin, gold is a material and colour of choice for many designers this season, as Janet Fitch demonstrates

E

veryone agrees that this year is flying by, and so far it’s been hectic with a constant stream of global news.

There’s no shortage of news and events in the jewellery world either, and it’s always hard to decide what to include and what leave out, but summer is here so let’s celebrate it, with a mix of romance, summer gold and vibrant colour. Gold is especially flattering to the skin in summer, and these three collections highlight all this season’s trends.

Beazie Roberts was a publicist to stars like Daniel Craig and Heidi Klum, and over the last six years has created bespoke jewellery (learning the craft at Benjamin Warwick in Hatton Garden) worn by private clients like Rihanna, Alexa Chung and Elle McPherson. In 2010 she introduced her first collection, and in September this year is launching her

Beazie Roberts

Rachel Galley new prêt-a-porter collection, BZ, in 18 carat yellow, pink and white gold, or black and white rhodium-plated, set with black sapphires. Her detailed 18 carat gold pineapple pendant is the perfect summer jewel, hand-carved and set with two carats of yellow sapphires. (www.beazieroberts.com) Rachel Galley will unveil her luxurious 18 carat goldplated silver lattice Enkai Sun range, inspired by her trip to Tanzania, the birthplace of Masai jewellery, this month at London Jewellery Week. The fashion-forward tribal influenced collection captures the spirit of summer, but tribal is set to be a continuing theme this winter as well. (www.rachelgalley.com) Dower & Hall’s new 22 carat gold vermeil designs were created “for luxury buyers looking for a more accessible price point without compromising on quality or style,” as Diane Hall explains. Orchids and sculpted roses, adorned with semi-precious gemstones, hand-carved spiral hoops and a shimmering gold cuff make up the collection, with retail prices from £60. (www.dowerandhall.com)

Dower & Hall

TRENDS

St Erasmus Summer is the time for romantic weddings and everyone wants theirs to be special, which is where individuality of design is so important. St Erasmus, the jewellery brand made famous when Michelle Obama first wore it at the White House, launched its first bridal collection at the upmarket international bridal design show, White Gallery London, at the end of May. The distinctive and feminine jewellery uses traditional artisan production in New Delhi – Zari thread crochet, using a fine metallic gold/silver wire thread embellished with Swarovski crystal and beading to create opulent and decorative pieces. (www.st-erasmus.com) Craft Central in Clerkenwell, London, is holding its first wedding-themed show, with hand-crafted accessories and gifts for weddings, including work by 16 individual jewellery designers. These include Angela Fung who will exhibit her wedding collection for brides, bridegrooms and bridesmaids, including her unusual gold spin ring, with a diamond that spins in its setting. (www.angelafung.net; Craft Central Gets Hitched from 23 to 25 June www.craftcentral.org.uk)

Angela Fung

Pulse is always a stimulating show, and a source of new and innovative gifts. Nick Bartley, who abandoned a highflying banking career to found his successful jewellery business, Lucas Jack, plans to launch two new brands there this month, one of which is Nico London – a range of fashionable designer jewellery made from antique silver and bronze. Long necklaces, many multi-layered, make a dramatic statement with matching earrings and bracelets.

With its own-branded packaging and point of sale, it is ideal for gift and fashion boutiques, galleries and department stores. Meanwhile, Punch London is fresh and funky fashion jewellery in brightly coloured resins, with 22 carat goldplated detail. Bold bangles, worn singly or layered, are vibrant and attention-grabbing. It can be seen on stands U30 and Q45 at Pulse, Earls Court, London from 5 to 7 June. (www.lucasjack.com; www.pulse-london.com)

Lucas Jack

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Watch this space

The bling factor They may not be to everyone’s taste, but the market for men’s diamond watches is burgeoning, says Keith Fisher

“A

kiss on the hand may be so continental... but diamonds are a girl’s best friend!” I have been humming and singing Marilyn Monroe’s timeless classic from the 50s Hollywood classic Gentleman Prefer Blondes ever since the editor of this magazine emailed me to say that the theme this month is diamonds.

The simple reality is that diamonds in the world of watches are now the ‘in’ thing with A-list celebrities. And it is the men who are leading the way! Oh yes – every giant Swiss watch manufacturer now produces a plethora of styles embracing diamonds.

If I was to tell you that not so long ago just wearing a watch on the wrist was considered effeminate, I wonder what the Victorians would have thought of men wearing diamonds on their watches; the mind boggles!

But the trend has split watch dealers, certainly in this country. One who wishes to remain anonymous tells me: “I think it is the most ridiculous so-called development in watches I can ever recall.” Wow! Anon plies his trade in London and is an expert dealer but he is not happy. “What is a watch for? To tell the time.

Complications are fantastic to enhance the look of a watch on a man’s wrist, but diamonds all over the place? No thank you.

“Let me say here and now that I am not an old fuddy duddy. I have a young, modern family with teenage children and they keep me up to date with all the latest trends and fashions, which I embrace in my professional life. But diamonds? I will never get used to them on the wrist of a man.”

Pretty strong stuff. So perhaps it is best to let him continue – not that I had much choice!

“I gave up when Franck Muller started producing watches with diamonds – that was it for me. He was the new kid on the block a few years ago, introducing lovely tonneau-shaped cases with giant Arabic numerals.

So refreshing; so different. Then he got into diamonds.

And look at Rolex – the world’s most identifiable watch manufacturer – they have gone diamond crazy!

“I blame Elton John, who years ago commissioned Chopard to produce him a watch loaded with gems. Then they all followed suit – David Beckham in particular. Once he got excited with diamond-encrusted watches then the floodgates just opened. He is a role model.”

Anon then looked at me straight in the eyes and said: “Keith... is it me? Tell the truth.” Ok. It is you. You asked for it, pal. Personal preference is one thing – that is your choice – but the proof of any pudding is in the demand, and diamonds

Personal preference is one thing, but the proof of any pudding is in the demand, and diamonds have become a man’s best friend, particularly on wristwatches

Watch this space

Faux diamonds? Why not? Why be snobbish about such things?

We are not all millionaires have become a man’s best friend, particularly on wristwatches. FACT. And why not? We members of the testosteronecharged species do not really have many opportunities to wear jewellery unless it is on our wrists. Just listen to young Sam, a 28-year-old property developer who is a friend of a friend. If you could see his 18 carat gold Rolex Day-Date littered with diamonds I think anybody would change their mind. It is a work of art; it is simply stunning and my only regret is that I wish I could afford one!

I specifically asked him to wear it for me recently as part of my research into this article and it took my breath away. When he first showed it off I honestly thought that the sun had just come out. And if only you could have seen the admiring glances he got and which I witnessed!

Sam told me: “It is not just about being flash or anything like that.” I can certainly vouch for that. He is a smashing, unassuming young man. “I am just taking advantage of trend.

Perhaps I am lucky and that I can afford such luxury. But I am not going to apologise for being able to afford something which I love.” Quite right, Sam. Let us not forget either that ‘bling’ is part of our culture and there are so many affordable, cheap-as-chips articles on the market catering for all budgets. Faux diamonds?

Why not? Why be snobbish about such things? We are not all millionaires.

But one thing is absolutely paramount: as every watch dealer will tell you, there is now a burgeoning demand for diamond men’s watches, and it will not go away. Give my great friend Anon time – I’ll work on him! But at least he’s made a great talking point.

And Louise, can I please stop humming that tune now?

Thank God for that.

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NEW TIMEPIECES

The Magnum Filicudi, designed by Alessandro Baldieri, is a limited edition, Type 316L stainless steel timepiece with Miyota automatic quartz movements, Italian leather and canvas strap, double deployant clasp and twoyear warranty. Available in green or red.

Information: 0844 911 1853 or info@since1853ltd.co.uk RRP: £375

The manual-winding AMW11 (ArminManualWinding 11) watch from Armin Strom incorporates the famous watch craftsman’s tradition of movement refinement and gives it a modern interpretation. The partly open dial reveals the inner workings of the movement, while the hour and minute hands are not centrally positioned, but slightly off-centre horizontally. The designer’s objective was to create “an exclusive watch with a manufacturer calibre at an extraordinary price”. It is available in four different models, corresponding to the four elements: water, air, earth and fire.

The Perrelet Diamond Flower Ceramic, unveiled earlier this year, has seen a successful launch. Its ceramic case, in either mysterious black or immaculate white, is overlaid with an elegant bezel that is either diamond-set or engraved with the initial ‘P’, and its Double Rotor, made into a lotus flower, in passing brushes against diamondset petals strewn sparingly over the face of the dial. With a choice of ceramic bracelet or black or white structured rubber strap, the Diamond Flower Ceramic is perfect for the woman who wishes to stand out from the crowd.

Information: 0041 32 343 33 44 or www.arminstrom.com RRP: £6,965 (Earth and Water models; prices may vary from time-to-time based on rate of exchange)

Information: 01604 497 595

Ones

RRP: £6,150

to watch Ingersoll and the Walt Disney Company have reunited to launch a range of watches – the Mickey Mouse 30s collection, which pays tribute to the original Mickey Mouse character watches launched in 1933. The collection retains the look of the original watches, and comprises two wristwatches – one with a bracelet wristband and the other with a leather strap – and two pocket watches, which are available in either a gold retro or silver retro finish. Each watch comes in a special 1930s gift pack and has a unique production number on its case back, giving each piece its own identity.

Information: 0208 208 1833 or www.ingersoll-watches.co.uk RRP: £260 (pocket watches)

When you need premium mounts there’s only one name to remember

Premium Mounts from Treasure House are some of the finest mounts you can buy. We only use high detail castings with extra finishing, using premium white alloys to give you the quality you want at affordable prices. Most styles are available in 9ct and 18ct white gold

or yellow gold, and platinum.

All of this is combined with the large stocks held by Treasure House and our next day delivery promise.

Call us now for a copy of our Mounts, Weddings Bands and Findings brochure on 020 7400 0000.

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How to sell: Visit our head office and one of our experts will value your watch, or call 020 8731 2566 and request a pre-paid special delivery watch pack insured to the value of £10,000. Alternatively you can visit www.bqwatches.com. We will call you with an offer, once accepted we will send your payment immediately. If you decline our offer we will return your goods by Royal Mail special delivery free of charge.

As a retailer you can log in and receive many benefits including exclusive access to trade prices, exclusive offers and important updates. For more information about buying or selling a luxury watch visit our new website or call our 24 hour advice line.

BQW 136 Burnt Oak Broadway, Edgware, Middlesex HA8 0BB T: 020 8731 2566 info@bqwatches.com

Added Despite the economy, there is still a huge demand for fine jewellery, and here is a selection of stunning diamond designs at a variety of price points to add glamour to your display cabinets

sparkle

Diamonds

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Exclusively designed by the Gecko design team for the Elements gold range, this vintage-inspired black and white diamond collection, comprised of pendant and earrings, is suited to all occasions.

The elegant designs reflect the classic monochrome trend, and a miligrain edge surrounding sparkling pave diamonds gives an antique-like quality to the designs.

Information: 01376 532 000 or sales@geckojewellery.com

Diamond by Appointment has launched the latest addition to its Platinum Bridal Collection – the ‘Valentia’. This collection takes its inspiration from the vintage era – a style of glamour, sparkle, detail and fine design – but with a modern edge. The design team developed and fashioned the settings to complement the brightness and beauty of the central diamond. Curved galleries and ‘open’ omega settings are part and parcel of the look. The secret to the Valentia collection is the use of specialised engraving tools while viewed through a microscope. The technique used has been coined ‘passion set’ and ensures the exact amount of metal to safely secure each stone, with traditional stringing techniques employed to raise the bar further.

Information: 028 9024 0339 or info@diamondbyappointment.com

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Murder She Wrote by Stephen Webster is the tale of the femme fatale and the English country house. Full of deceit, revenge and jealousy, this 2011 collection of fine jewellery lays blood on the croquet lawn with emeralds, rubies, sapphires and of course those most shadowy of characters, black diamonds.

Information: 0845 539 1840 or www.stephenwebster.com

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The Paradise collection from Hot Diamonds celebrates nature-inspired floral motifs. Crafted from sterling silver and finished with a sparkling diamond, this much-loved collection makes a perfect summer gift, or self-treat.

Information: 0118 975 3331 or sales@hdgroup.com

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Diamonds

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Specialising in eternity rings, Eternity Range has been producing handmade pieces for over 10 years to a high standard, using high quality G/VS diamonds and fine coloured gemstones. The company’s portfolio contains over 90 different styles, many of which are in stock and can be delivered next day. To complement the range, Eternity Range offers a bespoke design service to accommodate specific customer requests, with a delivery time of just two to three weeks from request through to completion, and a one-year manufacturer’s guarantee on all items. The company strives to provide a reliable, experienced and friendly customer service. The complete collection is available to view online, where you can also register to view prices and to receive the monthly newsletter.

Alternatively one of the team will be happy to visit you in the comfort of your own premises.

Information: 0207 831 8573 or www.eternityrange.co.uk

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Villamarts Ltd, Hatton Garden’s premier loose diamond wholesaler and jewellery manufacturer, is able to offer a wide range of British designed and made, fine quality diamond engagement ring and wedding band sets. The Choices collection offers engagement ring mounts made in ideal proportion, designed to present the engagement diamond in its best light and to allow partnership with a perfectly fitting wedding band. The range offers choices of diamond settings, including microclaw and pave settings.

Information: 0207 417 0260, ron@villamarts.co.uk or www.villamarts.co.uk

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Sheldon Bloomfield has an extensive range of diamond jewellery set in 18 carat gold, including pave set jewellery (as pictured). G colour VS clarity stones are used in a large array of designs that can be viewed by appointment (contact details below).

The company is also renowned for its range of coloured stone jewellery featuring fine rubies, sapphires and emeralds, as well as unusual gemset jewellery using rubellites, topaz, kunzites and aquamarine.

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Domino’s Rosabella and Sienna diamond jewellery collections are supported by full colour catalogues, and the former boasts its own branded display materials and boxes.

Pictured here are two rings from the Sienna range – the ring on the left is set with GVS outer diamonds and the retailers’ own choice of 7x5, 8x6, 9x7 or 10x8 oval centre stones, meaning that it is available at a range of carat weights from 0.41 to 0.62, and in either 18 carat white gold or platinum; while the ring on the right is set with GVS centre stone and outer diamonds, 0.50 carat central stone and melee weight 0.27 carat. This design can also be supplied with a 0.5 carat or one carat centre stone. The Rosabella collection of finished diamond jewellery can be seen in the full page image at the start of this feature, which depicts an 18 carat white gold suite of earrings, pendant and bracelet all set with HSI diamonds.

Information: 0121 236 4772, info@dominojewellery.com or www.dominojewellery.com

Information: 0113 243 0100 or www.sheldonbloomfield.com

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Captivated by the brief and delicate beauty of the Maybell, Shaun Leane has created a new fine jewellery collection that celebrates the purity and elegance of this woodland flower. Executed in white gold, graceful racemes gently bow with diamond-set flowers.

These highly detailed bells are balanced by the simplicity of line and fluid curves that have become the house’s signature.

Information: 0207 405 4773 or info@shaunleane.com

Sapphires and Diamonds

Exquisite Jewellery by

Sheldon Bloomf ield 0113 243 0100 www.sheldonbloomf ield.com heidi @ sheldonbloomf ield.co.uk

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Interview

Buying-power Gerard Keane is diamond buyer for the prestigious family firm Keanes Jewellers in Ireland. He speaks to Louise Hoffman about his work, his business and his market predictions Keanes Jewellers has built a reputation for itself as an awardwinning, long-established jeweller. What would you say have been the keys to your success?

Keanes is a family company in business for over 60 years and the wealth of experience that has been handed down from generation to generation sets us apart. Our number one priority is caring for our customers, and because of this we have attracted a loyal customer base with generations of the same family coming back again and again.

We constantly improve our premises both inside and out, at times with a large investment, and this keeps us attractive to passing trade and helps us display our products in the best possible light.

Finally, our willingness to be adventurous with our stock and try new brands, trying to always cater to our customers.

As diamond buyer, how have you, contributed to the growth of the business?

Focusing on the quality of both the diamond and the setting is extremely important to us. Our creed has always been to strike the perfect balance between getting the keenest deal on cost while not reducing the quality. In addition to analysis of sales, regular staff discussion has proved very helpful in

determining our customers’ wishes and where our priorities should be.

What are the most essential qualities in a successful jewellery buyer?

To always look at all offerings available and not refuse anything without doing so, otherwise you may miss out on a brand and will regret it later. Don’t let cost dictate the decision alone; fashion and style are also very important factors, and it can be all too easy to get hung up on basic cost values.

Which factors should be taken into account when choosing stock this year, especially in terms of diamond jewellery?

In Ireland silver is a very dominant force in jewellery and in diamond wedding and engagement rings white metal, especially platinum, leads the way. Obviously white metal lends itself to any diamond jewellery. We feel the less extravagant pieces will be popular this year, so style will play a key part in the choice of diamond jewellery. It may be that the royal wedding, at which the bride wore beautiful diamond earrings, will help to promote sales of drop diamond earrings.

Interview

How are you catering to the economic climate?

We seek value-for-money services from our suppliers and a much better return from our marketing and advertising budget. There are deals to be done as everyone sharpens their pencils in this difficult time. We also attempt to structure staff rotas more effectively to improve coverage of the hours we are open.

Are consumers changing their habits when choosing wedding and engagement rings?

Yes! Diamond wedding rings are very strong and are becoming the norm, and engagement rings with finely-set diamond shoulders are increasingly popular. We find people are choosing their wedding rings earlier now and we keep them safe for collection just before the wedding. Rings with neater designs are also increasingly popular, with less and less people interested in ‘bling’.

Finally, do you have any particular consumer trend predictions for 2011?

Brands are becoming more important in the market. It is essential to look at the multiplicity of brands on offer to us, hopefully selecting the winners. The trends that have taken place over the last 20 years in terms of product such as earrings, pendants, dress rings etc, certainly are not as strong as the brand. It seems to be the dominant factor now. At the same time we ensure not to neglect the fact that the strongest brand we have is ‘Keanes’.

Images: (facing page) Gerard Keane (left) and fellow director Pat Keane (right), (this page) Keanes, Cork

Courtesy Of Mirium Rowe

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Diamonds

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Monnickendam Diamonds, one of the oldest and largest sellers of polished diamonds in the UK, and once a sightholder (1929 to 2003), says that it now benefits from an enhanced flexibility when purchasing rough competitively, selecting precisely to its own requirements and in strict adherence to the Kimberley Process and all UN resolutions.

Monnickendam will supply a full range of round and fancyshaped polished diamonds, to your specific request, from extensive stocks held in London, with additional services including cutting clients’ rough diamonds (valid Kimberley Process Certificate required); re-cutting and remodelling of polished diamonds; repair work; and trimming work.

Information: 0207 242 2333 or www.monnickendam.co.uk

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Hatton Garden-based Villamarts Ltd is a premier loose diamond wholesaler and jewellery manufacturer. The company says that its focus is on competitive prices and excellent service, and that its friendly staff members are available to assist with any enquiries. Villamarts has a large available stock of loose certified diamonds that can be viewed online, and interested retailers can also visit the showroom to view the company’s range of diamond jewellery, including diamond-set wedding bands, engagement rings, diamond studs and line bracelets for all price ranges.

Information: 0207 417 0260, ron@villamarts.co.uk or www.villamarts.co.uk

Finishing touches Looking for loose diamonds to create your fine jewellery designs? Here are a few companies that can help…

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Slade & Kempton has recently announced that it has entered into an agreement with the sole Canadian DTC Sightholder to be the main distributor in the UK, Eire and Channel Islands for Canadian round- and princess-cut diamonds, guaranteed to be “ethical and conflict-free.” Each individual diamond is laser marked with a unique identification number certified by the Canadian government and has been meticulously tracked from mine through the manufacturing phases. A designated website allows the consumer to trace the diamonds’ provenance online.

Slade & Kempton will initially promote ethical stones set in solitaire rings, pendants and earrings, accompanied by a Canadian Diamond Government Certificate and GIA laboratory certificate.

Special display trays and promotional materials will be available to assist jewellers for maximum exposure.

With 40 years of experience in diamond manufacturing and trading, Shrenikstar offers a wide range of polished diamonds in all shapes and colours.

The company specialises in 0.005pts up to 15 carats in qualities from IF to PQ3 in all colours from D to Z. Natural fancy colours are also offered, both with and without certificates. GIA, HRD and IGI certificates are additionally available, mainly in sizes from 0.30pts up to 15 carats.

Information: sales@slade-kempton.com

Information: 0032 3233 5916 or info@shrenikstar.com

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eternityrange the original specialists

Eternity rings in over 90 styles. Outstanding quality and service.

Two to three weeks delivery for special orders.

5 Hatton Place, London, EC1N 8RU

t: 0207 831 8573

w: www.eternityrange.co.uk

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Interview

Set in stone Recently elected as president of the London Diamond Bourse, following the sad loss of Freddy Hager, Harry Levy is a key figure in the diamond industry. Taking a few minutes out of his busy schedule, he speaks to Louise Hoffman for this diamond special issue Since entering the gemstone trade, you have contributed to its development and success in many ways. Can you outline the roles and responsibilities you have taken on to date?

I have been involved with the gemstone trade for over 40 years now. I entered it as a gemstone dealer and very soon got involved with trade organisations. I was then elected to the board of the British Jewellers’ Association (BJA), started and chaired a Stone Dealers’ Section, and eventually became the chairman of the BJA several years ago.

I was also elected to the board of the London Diamond Bourse (LDB), serving for a number of years as vice president, and now as the president. And I am officer for the International Diamond Council (IDC).

In addition I have served on numerous local committees, including the Gemmological Association, and I was sent to represent the UK at CIBJO meetings early in the 1980s.

I have since then acted as chairman/president of many commissions, and also worked on the board of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) for many years.

I have been recently nominated to head an EU commission to determine terminology for the diamond industry.

What have been the biggest industry issues you have faced during your career?

Trying to modernise CIBJO thinking, and involvement with the Kimberley Process (KP).

And what have been your proudest achievements?

I think revising the CIBJO diamond book, and working amicably with the main jewellery sectors internationally to better our industry and promote the UK.

Which issue is currently dominating the gemstone/diamond industry?

With gemstones it is how to handle treated stones, and with diamonds it is problems with the KP.

How is the IDC currently working to address this issue?

As I am not the chairman of the International Diamond Council, it is difficult for me to answer this, but generally it is to achieve harmony with other groups interested in promoting diamond sales.

What are your thoughts on fair trading in the diamond industry?

This is a difficult issue for me in that, having been to the many producing countries, I see problems in trying

to impress western norms and standards on developing countries. For example, trying to stop child labour in India would mean that the main income producer in an extended family can no longer generate an income. If there was an infrastructure to accommodate such children it would all be well, but there are inadequate schools, clubs and other social organisations to look after them and they end up roaming the streets with no work and nothing to do.

“I see problems in trying to impress western norms and standards on developing countries”

Trying to obtain ‘fair’ wages for workers again runs into problems, which are not seen by many in the west. As can be seen in the recent Arab awakening, the demand is not for religion or political power, but rather for work and the dignity it brings. If western countries had to pay similar wages to those that they pay in the home countries, they would not go abroad to produce their wares.

Often the spin we have seen for fair trading does not see a holistic picture, and in the short term can do more harm than good.

A positive example can be seen in Botswana, where the government put money from the diamond industry into building roads, hospitals and schools. If you merely stop giving work to a factory in the Far East or Africa because they do not have western working conditions, it does not help that workforce.

Finally, what are your predictions in terms of consumer demand for diamond jewellery for 2011/12?

The demand for jewellery of all types has not slackened.

Methods of distribution are changing, with moves away from the traditional jewellery shop, to TV sales, internet sales and mail order.

Also, production of jewellery is moving to the Far East, Turkey and Africa. Eastern Europe will probably become a producing area too. All this is taking the business of jewellery production, and its offshoots, away from the main consumer countries.

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How do they do that?

Transforming rough diamonds

The process of transforming an unattractive rough diamond into a glittering polished diamond is known as manufacturing, and the skill and finesse with which this is done can make a major difference to the appearance of the final gemstone.

Anu Manchanda, senior gemmologist at AnchorCert, explains the basic processes

D

iamond is the hardest known substance with a hardness of 10 on the Mohs Scale of Hardness. In spite of this it can be cut and polished due to the phenomenon of differential hardness – ie the hardness differs slightly with different directions in certain gem materials. However, a diamond can only be cut by another diamond.

Manufacturing of diamond goes through four basic stages: 1. Designing and marking 2. Dividing 3. Shaping 4. Faceting and polishing

Designing and marking

Designing is a crucial step in diamond manufacturing. During this stage the size and relative value of the cut stones that the rough will produce are determined. The designer must consider the carat weight, shape, colour, clarity and crystal direction when deciding where to mark the diamond rough for sawing or cleaving. Incorrectly marking a diamond by a fraction of a millimetre can make a difference of thousands of pounds in some cases. In addition, if a designer attempts to cleave a diamond in the wrong position, the diamond could shatter and become worthless.

Historically, the cleaving process relied entirely upon human skill and judgement, but now the process is assisted by computer software using a laser mapping technique. This helps a designer to decide where

How do they do that?

to mark a diamond by indicating different options of yield. When the designer has made a judgement, he or she draws a thin black line in Indian ink or permanent marker to show where the diamond needs to be sawed or cleaved.

Some stones are suitable to go straight for polishing; these stones are called ‘makeable’.

Dividing

The diamond can be divided by the following methods: • Cleaving: This process is not very common today but historically many important diamonds were divided by this process. For cleaving a diamond a small kerf (notch) is ground on the face of the diamond where marked by the designer, a steel blade is then placed in the kerf and a sharp tap is given with a short, heavy iron bar, splitting the crystal along the desired cleavage plane.

• Sawing: The diamond to be sawed is cemented to a dop (the equivalent of a jig to hold the diamond) which is inserted into the sawing machine and a counter dop is placed against it. The sawing is done by a phosphor-bronze disc, which is connected to a motor. The disc is coated with diamond powder as only diamond can cut a diamond.

Approximately three per cent of the diamond’s weight is lost during sawing.

• Laser sawing: This is common practice in the 21st century. Many diamonds with distorted growth, such as graining or twinning, are virtually impossible to cut by conventional means because of the changes in cleavage and sawing planes they contain. The laser saw has major benefits in the situations where the material has included crystals of diamond along the plane selected for sawing. The laser saw has also created the opportunity to produce many new fancy shapes that are now on the market – horse’s head, oil wells, stars, butterflies and initials being a few examples.

Shaping

Bruting forms the basic face-up outline of a round diamond to prepare it for faceting.

During the bruting phase the diamond being bruted is spun on a rotating lathe while another diamond is forced against it, gradually forming the rounded outline. Essentially, one diamond is used to shape the other. The amount of pressure required is carefully controlled by the bruter as lack of care can cause small fractures called ‘bearding’ and may affect the clarity of the finished diamond.

Modern bruting is the process whereby two diamonds are set onto spinning axles turning in opposite directions, which are then set to grind against each other to shape each diamond into a round shape. This can also be known as girdling. The direction of rotation changes constantly, with one diamond moving backward and forward. This process is carefully controlled electronically as well as by a supervisor.

Faceting and polishing

Polishing is the final stage of the cutting process, giving the diamond its finished proportions.

Three main pieces of equipment are required to facet and finish a diamond: • Scaife: A cast iron disc mounted on a bench.

It rotates at approximately 2,500 revolutions per minute.

• Dop: A dop holds the diamond and enables it to be placed on the running scaife.

• Tang: The tang holds the dop.

The first and perhaps most crucial polishing stage is blocking. This step lays the foundation for the potential of the diamond’s performance when it comes to handling light, because it establishes the diamond’s basic symmetry. For a round brilliant diamond the person known as the cross worker gives a pre-form to the diamond by polishing the first 18 facets: the table, four corners and bezel at the crown and then four corners and four pavilion facets and a culet, if any, on the pavilion. The remaining 40 facets are added by someone in the aptly named role of ‘brillianteer’, as 24 on the crown and 16 on the pavilion. It is this stage that will determine how much brilliance and fire a diamond displays. Minor inconsistencies in symmetry and proportions can make the difference between a stunning diamond and a dull, lifeless stone.

Despite new technology being harnessed and developed, the final outcome is still very dependent upon human intervention and judgement. As we all know, every rough diamond is unique, according to how nature created it. Human skill can enhance or detract from the finished, polished diamond adding a further twist to its individuality.

Focus on the expert Anu Manchanda MSc, GG, DGA, FGA, P J Dip, FNAG Pearl Graduate (GIA) Anu Manchanda holds a Masters degree (MSc) in Geology from India; an FGA, DGA from the School of Jewellery, Birmingham; and the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma (PJ Dip) with distinction from the National Association of Goldsmiths. She is also a Fellow of the National Association of Goldsmiths (FNAG) and a Pearl Graduate of the Gemological Institute of America. She is recipient of the Christie’s Prize for Gemmology (2004).

This is a trade prize awarded to the best candidate of the year who derives his or her income from activities essentially connected with the jewellery trade.

Anu tutors for the Gemmological Association of Great Britain’s Correspondence course students for both the Diamond Diploma and Gemmology Diploma courses (DGA & FGA).

As an AnchorCert senior gemmologist, Anu is responsible for accuracy and for new initiatives in the diamond grading and gem testing laboratory.

The Birmingham Assay Office was founded in 1773 to provide a hallmarking facility to the rapidly expanding local silver trade. Over 235 years it has become established as the largest UK assay office. During the past decade the Assay Office has expanded its services further, far beyond its statutory assaying and hallmarking duties, and offers independent expert opinion on every aspect of the precious metal, jewellery and gemstone trade. For more information visit

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32

Interview

Fairtrade phenomena Louise Hoffman catches up with CRED Foundation founder Greg Valerio to hear about developments since the launch of Fairtrade Fairmined gold, and a new project that is on the horizon So, how has the feedback and take-up been since the launch of Fairtrade Fairmined gold?

The feedback has been great. I have been genuinely surprised at how broadly the UK jewellery trade has embraced this idea. There is now a waiting list to become a licence holder for Fairtrade (FT) gold, and there remains a huge challenge to keep up with demand as this is far greater than the current sources are able to supply. However this was always going to be a long haul project, so it is better to build small and steady and sustainably than to rush to meet the initial demand only to find it implodes later. There are at least another three co-ops registering to get certified as I write this, so by the end of the year we will be looking at a good amount of gold in the system.

What is your next aim in terms of Fairtrade certification?

Clearly the need to build supply in the Fairtrade gold market is critical, so I am looking at a community interest company aimed at developing capacity across the continent of Africa. There is just as big a hunger from small-scale mining communities to become Fairtrade certified as there is from jewellers wanting to be a part of the ethical jewellery evolution. Also I am beginning to look at the need for a certified gemstone and diamond. The gap in the diamond and gemstone industry is huge, with the issues of transparency and traceability even bigger now than they ever have been. Africa alone has in excess of 1.5 million alluvial diamond miners with no replicable certifiable process in place for them. This leaves them open to exploitation by corrupt governments and unscrupulous employers, among others.

“ The cur rent luxury communication around diamonds is out of step with where the future consumer is moving”

Many organisations have and are seeking to improve the ethics of the diamond industry, seeing varying degrees of success. How would the Fairtrade diamond certification concept differ from previous and existing processes?

Firstly I see a Fairtrade diamond achieving what I believe no other scheme in the diamond world has done; namely making a direct connection with the public. Consumers deserve the right for full traceability and transparency over any product they buy in a jewellery store. As I have said before it is a systemic failure in our industry that we cannot give the consumer this basic reality. So an FT diamond would be fully traceable and transparent from mine to retail.

Secondly, it would be exclusively from the small-scale miners, addressing all injustices in a way that the consumer can relate to. There would have to be a public standard delivered through a genuine multi-stakeholder process that includes the miners themselves. Fairtrade works on a minimum price and premium being paid for a product to stop economic exploitation and deliver on the social and environmental expectations that the public have of any Fairtrade product.

Do you have a projected time frame for the project?

Not yet – we are still identifying locations to start a few pilot projects, but so far the miners that I have talked to are very keen to get going. So hopefully quite soon!

Finally, how do you foresee such a product benefiting jewellers and retailers?

The benefits are enormous to everyone. The consumer gets to see where their money is going and who is benefiting from their luxury purchase, and it is a huge value-add to any emotional purchase. The current luxury communication around diamonds is out of step with where the future consumer is moving. People want openness and honesty and to see real benefits. For jewellers it will become a product they can trust as they will have all the quality they expect in a fully graded diamond (4 Cs) with the added audited knowledge that there has been no exploitation or dodgy dealings in the chain of custody. The feedback I get from jewellers is that they are desperate for more ethical quality to hit the market, and a Fairtrade diamond can achieve just that. For more information do please contact me via www.gregvalerio.com

34

Industry

Retailing rocks Sam Willoughby speaks to trade representatives to find out the secrets to success in selling fine jewellery such as diamonds

W

hen consumers make purchases at fine jewellery price point – in particular diamonds – they are likely to be more savvy and cautious, taking careful consideration before they buy, so it’s essential to think about the retail experience.

Martin Rapaport, chairman of the Rapaport Group, will be speaking at IJL about the diamond industry, and when we spoke ahead of the show about the topic, he made the point that diamond prices are rising due to the strong demand from consumers in developing countries (India, China etc). “Due to the international effect, diamond prices are increasing and this is set to continue, so retailers really need to think about their merchandise now. It’s a similar story for gold, but the changes will be more pronounced with diamonds,” he says.

Some jewellers are already stocking diamonds in a contemporary way. Kabiri is one such retailer, and its aim is to introduce fresh, new jewellery designers to its discerning customers. “These days diamond retailing is less about the size and how many carats and more about the overall design of the piece – this is why selecting good designers is essential,” Nathalie Kabiri informed me. “Smaller diamonds are being used, particularly in figurative pieces – it’s less about the actual stones as the diamonds are being used to accent the piece instead. I think design is more the focus than ever before.”

Nathalie pointed out that this trend doesn’t just apply to diamond jewellery, as there is a broader trend for smaller jewellery at the moment. “It’s less showy; more tasteful. This means that when it comes to small diamonds, they need to have good clarity. A good setting is also just as important in a small piece of jewellery.”

As well as getting your stock spot on, the customer experience can really set you apart from competitors.

I always recommend staff training and improving staff knowledge, and at Kabiri, staff members are given stone training with the GIA (Gemological Institute of America), which covers sapphire and emeralds etc as well as diamonds. Designers often send documentation and info too, which can help to sell their work, as can designer visits to meet the staff.

Consumers are also savvier than ever before due to the internet, but there can be conflicting information online, so building trust is vital for retailers in-store. Bev Hori, GIA vice president of education and chief learning officer, agrees:

“From being well informed on the four Cs of diamonds, to the detection of the latest treatments, synthetics and gem material, it is imperative that jewellers arm themselves and their staff with education, gemmological skills and professional credentials, such as a graduate gemologist (GG) or accredited jewelry professional (AJP) from GIA. This knowledge and these credentials help communicate trust and credibility to consumers.”

Diamonds are an emotional purchase, so consider the full retail experience beyond providing the best knowledge.

Insight with Passion is a business transformation and rejuvenation partnership that is preparing a seminar for IJL entitled ‘Retail theatre’, which will cover exactly this. Think about how you present your products – lifestyle arrangements can bring products to life; lighting and colour can really show off a diamond. And think about the overall atmosphere too, in terms of how you can make the customer feel. “With costs on the rise and consumer confidence at an all-time low, it falls to the retailer to provide a customer experience that thrills and excites. By introducing retail theatre to their shopfloors, retailers will find an increase in footfall, profitability and, most importantly, customer loyalty,” states Kate Hardcastle, founding partner of Insight with Passion.

Martin Rapaport adds that retailers will definitely make changes, going high or low, and thinking about how they interact with customers is essential. There are retailers that will be able to maintain or build a high-end diamond brand – the Tiffanys and Bulgaris of the industry – selling excellent quality pieces to be bought as an investment. Shopping in these places is seen as a very emotional experience thanks to the atmosphere. In fact, these iconic companies have managed to build up such brand awareness that the impact goes beyond the shopfloor – there is something truly special about owning the jewellery purely because of the brand. Exceeding customer expectation with knowledge, experience and credibility will support the sale of the special, emotional and so very desirable diamond purchase.

Right: Nathalie Kabiri

Sam Willoughby is event director for International Jewellery London (IJL).

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36

Personalisation

Treasured

mementos

Gisele Ganne

With personalised jewellery continuing to prove popular with consumers looking to separate themselves from the crowd, Rebecca Hoh discovers why commemorative and memento-mori-inspired jewellery is a perfect stock choice

Gisele Ganne

‘M

emento mori’ means ‘remember you will die’, and is of course by definition a morbid thought, but it was an important part of Victorian and Georgian life resulting in many beautiful art and craft pieces that were created to remind us not only of our mortality, but to celebrate and commemorate life and its significant events.

One such concept was memento mori jewellery, which seems to be enjoying a renaissance again, with a trend for trinkets, pendants, rings and charms that feature flowers resembling forget-me-nots, hearts, crosses, ivy leaves, cameo silhouettes and crosses – all common symbols of the style – as well as more macabre icons such as skulls and coffins.

“Mourning or memorial jewellery has been worn for centuries, especially during the Victorian era where funerals and events attached to immortalising and remembering the dead were of much importance,” explains London-based jewellery designer Gisele Ganne, who creates amazing pieces inspired by memento mori ideas. One ring is even made of a real bird’s skull, which has been electroformed (a special technique which recovers the bird skull in metal) and then gold plated. Other objects are skulls with antlers, birds in flight and mourning flowers, showing life and death mixed together – all part of the same cycle. Another section of her range actually takes the idea a step further and commemorates dead relationships – entitled the Divorce collection. “Today, 42 per cent of marriages finish by divorce in the UK,” Ganne cheerily explains. “The jewellery illustrates this sort of mourning; all the decorative elements

Personalisation

Eclectic Eccentricity

Waxing Poetic

Jeremy Hoye

symbolise subverted symbols of union and marriage to show the inevitability of the breakup, but also to show that from these ashes may raise a new life.”

Norwich-based online company Eclectic Eccentricity also bases a lot of its designs around memento-style pieces. One piece is actually called Memento and has been worn by stylish singer Eliza Doolittle. It is a necklace loaded with symbolic trinkets – an old skeleton key, a buttermilk rose, a vintage 1950s Czech glass stone, and a raw brass swooping swallow.

“We like to combine vintage finds that have history with newly discovered treasures,” says Lucy at the company. “In keeping with the ‘kooky’ theme behind Eclectic Eccentricity each piece has a little story and we like to think that each piece’s future owner will add to the tales of these items and weave a brand new story.” An idea that is proving very successful, the company’s jewellery is being stocked in many outlets and the team is supplying a number of retail line items for wholesale and designs exclusive to wholesale.

Another innovative memento-style jeweller, with designs available as wholesale, is Brighton’s Jeremy Hoye, who offers many customisable pieces to commemorate a loved one or moment. The 18 carat gold Russian Doll necklace is the most striking example of this – a two centimetre tall Russian doll charm embellished with rubies and black, pink and white diamonds, which opens to reveal a hidden scroll so the owner can engrave it with her own message. Jeremy’s 2011 line also includes a sacred heart ring, with a scroll as a part of its design, again for engraving.

Waxing Poetic creates personalised jewellery for men and women, all reminiscent of the memento mori style, such as winged hearts, crosses and monogram charms, to commemorate not only deaths but love, the birth of a child, graduation or other important events, in brass and sterling silver.

“People will always have a story to tell and our personal jewellery is made to resonate with the customer” “People will always have a story to tell and our personal jewellery is made to resonate with the customer,” says Waxing Poetic’s CEO and creative director Patti Pagliei Simpson. “It allows each individual to keep those special people, moments, or memories even closer. The Waxing Poetic aesthetic, combining a modern approach with the Victorian and Georgian tradition, represents that connection between heritage and personality which makes personal jewellery so popular.”

She believes that this makes these great items for retailers to stock because the appeal of personal jewellery remains constant. “No matter what is going on in the world, people are always searching for those special pieces that define them. It is timely without trying to be trendy and is created with the human experience in mind.”

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Personalisation

Jessica de Lotz

Little Black Brooch

Cloud 8

Of course one of the most recognised symbols of this era is the cameo – a silhouette of a loved one, living or dead, to be worn as a brooch to keep them close to you.

One designer who is producing a beautiful and updated version of this is Little Black Brooch, with founder Vanessa Kellas drawing inspiration from her fascination with her grandma’s cameo piece.

“I find that the brooch is still considered to be quite an old fashioned piece of jewellery,” explains Kellas, “so I needed to bring a new twist to an old idea.” This can be seen in all her brightly coloured items, but her most popular brooch by far – Dawn of the Dead – demonstrates the concept perfectly.

“At first glance we see a regular Victorian cameo; a plain silhouette of a girl. But on closer inspection, you see Dawn is actually a beautiful skeleton with long flowing hair. The amount of people who do a double take when they see her is wonderful, and that is what I hope to achieve with most of my pieces.” Little Black Brooch can supply to smaller jewellery retailers and boutiques.

Jessica de Lotz is another jewellery maker whose work centres on heritage, remembrance and marking events in one’s life. “Jewellery that commemorates a special event, relationship or moment in time is a very good description of my work and that means wearing pieces that capture your own history and create your own legacy,” says de Lotz, who makes personalised A-Z hand-stamped wax seals and single symbol wax seal jewellery, which can be pendants, charms or brooches. She and her graphic designer brother, Benny, have also launched a bespoke service called Jeweller for Life, inviting clients to submit personal histories and/or their family heritage, in order for a one-off personal monogram and crest to be designed and incorporated into wearable fine jewellery pieces. Shown above are some of the commission pieces and one of their Victorian valentine’s crests. They

have even designed a royal wedding range with a Will and Kate crest, also pictured.

“Cheap and disposable jewellery is so accessible but at the end of the day, anyone can wear it and none of it individualises you,” adds de Lotz, on the subject of why the memento mori theme has current popularity. “However, something that is designed personally for you (and at a reasonable price) is a treasure to behold and one to keep close to you forever and ever as it represents you.”

“Cheap and disposable jewellery is so accessible but at the end of the day, anyone can wear it and none of it individualises you” And perhaps for those looking for just a couple of bespoke, fun pieces, Cloud 8 jewellery hand-made by Claudia Stebler in Zurich takes the idea of jewellery which commemorates truly personal moments in our lives to the extreme. There are a number of pieces, but my absolute favourite is Bury Your X – a brooch made of porcelain bones, which serves to help you forget former lovers. On the back is space on the silver pin in order to engrave the number of persons you want to erase from your heart. Very memento mori, but with a cheeky sense of 2011 humour.

Supplier listing

Cloud 8: www.cloud8.ch Eclectic Eccentricity: www.eclecticeccentricity.bigcartel.com Gisele Ganne: www.giseleganne.com Jeremy Hoye: www.jeremy-hoye.com Jessica de Lotz: www.jessicadelotz.co.uk Little Black Brooch: www.littleblackbrooch.bigcartel.com Waxing Poetic: www.waxingpoetic.com

40

Comment

Scrapheap challenge Michael Hoare comments on the battle to save the hallmark, which is under scrutiny as part of the Government’s bid to cut red tape

F

or a few days at the end of April I swore that if I received another email entitled ‘Save the hallmark’ I would scream. Not that I bear the hallmark any ill will – quite the contrary – but we were suffering from a surfeit of success. Having co-operated with several other organisations to raise awareness of the implied threat to this great institution posed by the Government’s war on regulation, my inbox was being assailed by others keen to spread the word too.

In April, for those still in the dark, the UK Government launched a drive to reduce regulation under the banner of the ‘Red Tape Challenge’. The idea is that every few weeks they publish all regulations affecting one specific sector or industry, and the electorate respond by giving their views on ‘what’s working and what’s not, what can be simplified and what can be scrapped’. Based on that feedback, the Government promises to ‘start getting rid of unnecessary red tape’.

Laudable you might think, and certainly no surprise to anyone who attended the NAG’s pre-election meeting, where pretty much the only thing all three candidates could agree on was the evils of over-regulation, where promises of ‘one in, one out’ measures and ‘sunset clauses’ were made.

Anyway, the coalition wasted no time in polishing its populist credentials, and what I have come to know as the Scrapheap Challenge was born.

The first challenge was the retail sector, with electors asked to give their views on eight sets of retail regulations from ‘restricted goods’ to ‘trading with the enemy’. A lot of heat having been justifiably generated by threats to sweep away hallmarking, it was equally important that jewellers comment on ‘Sunday trading’ and ‘weights and measures’. The collective views of the representative bodies could so easily be dismissed with the classic Mandy Rice-Davies response of, “they would say that, wouldn’t they!” that the consumer’s view was also very important.

Even given a tidal wave of negative comment, can any sensible government really conside r abolishing hallmarking?

But public opinion can be fickle! Sometimes, in a spirit of revenge against bureaucracy, or to get even with petty lawmakers, we can make some strange judgment calls. One man’s meat is also another man’s poison, so while most people profess abhorrence of unnecessary legislation, what we really mean is we’re against limits on ourselves, but the other chap should be kept firmly in place by more punitive

measures. And then, there is the dramatic effect that a vociferous minority can have on this kind of vox pop! So there is always an outside chance that the public demand an end to hallmarking, and then we will all be losers!

But, even given a tidal wave of negative comment, can any sensible government really consider abolishing hallmarking?

The current laws define one of the oldest examples of consumer protection in the UK, and while not in itself justification for continued existence, it has proved over time to be a cost effective way of protecting both the public and the jewellery trade from dishonesty. It also represents continuity and heritage, and is a proof of provenance. Perhaps more importantly it can also drive economic activity and one only has to look at the sales boost that the application of a hallmark gave to palladium to recognise the reassurance that it gives to buyers. Furthermore, this tried and tested form of consumer protection comes at absolutely no cost to the taxpayer; adds not one civil servant to the roster; and simplifies the work of an already overstretched Trading Standards inspectorate. So, nearly everyone’s a winner!

I have no idea what that outcome of the popular vote will be, but more than 5,500 people had already taken the trouble to express a view (mostly favourable) by the time I added my own 10 penny worth. Another 2,600 people had made some equally pithy comments about Sunday and Christmas opening hours, mostly along the lines of the detrimental effect on the family life of shop staff and ancillary workers in jobs like parking, waste disposal, road maintenance and transport services; the extra burden put upon town centre infrastructure by greater use, increased lighting, more security and policing, not to mention traffic congestion and therefore air pollution; and the resultant costs borne by the taxpayer. Both hallmarking and Sunday trading are emotive issues, but weights and measures are less likely to raise the blood pressure, unless you hold strong views on imperial versus metric, and not unexpectedly the level of comment from the 96 who had responded so far was somewhat more esoteric!

So what will be the outcome? By the time you read this, the votes will be in, ministers will be consulting more widely, and civil servants will be building their cases for and against change. No doubt some legislation will be trimmed, yet more will be written to take its place, and hopefully we’ll be satisfied with the outcome. As a result of their efforts, the Scrapheap Challenge contestants get a bizarre malfunctioning contraption constructed from a pile of assorted junk. What will we get for ours?

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14:46:48

Stacking the odds

42

1

2

stack rings

Focus on

A perfect way for customers to express individuality through jewellery, stacking rings are still hot property this summer. Jon Chapple looks at some of the options available to stock in the coming months

I

nterchangeable, customisable jewellery remains in vogue during 2011, and stacking rings are very much leading the charge. Available as pieces of fashion jewellery and in the form of wedding and engagement bands, stacking rings worn in sets offer the customer an unparalleled degree of choice and self-expression in how they choose to wear their jewellery.

Stacking rings made a strong impact during spring’s show season, during which a number of prominent designers took the opportunity to

launch new stackable collections.

Stocking such rings is also a boon for the retailer, as, by their very nature, they tend to encourage multiple sales – another reason why jumping on the stacking bandwagon could be a shrewd move this summer.

“Stacking rings offer many different combinations, allowing your customers to tailor their jewellery according to their mood or style,” confirms Silver & Co. “They also bring added sales for you, as women tend to buy more than one ring at a time.” More information

3

about the collection of stacking rings available from Silver & Co by Treasure House, all of which have next-day delivery, is available on the company’s new website, www.silverandco.co “We have had great success with our stacking ring collection since its launch in November 2010,” says ECS Silver Ltd, whose rhodium-plated Siena stacking ring range comes in a variety of colours, including pink, amethyst, violet, blue, champagne, peridot, olive green, smoky quartz, black and white.

Each colour is available in a variety of

Stacking the odds

43

5

4

styles – from a simple rub-over setting to offset marquise settings – and a range of freshwater pearl and spacing rings complete the series. “The Siena collections offer keen pricing structures and margins. Our new website, launching at the end of May, will showcase some of the highlights,” the company adds, continuing: “In keeping with our commitment to retailers, full brand support and POS are available.”

Balagan’s designers are looking forward to springtime with their new Tower Ring collection, which features

14 different colours and styles of rings to mix and match. Made from sterling silver, with a 14 carat (one micron) gold-plated finish on some pieces, the Tower Ring collection is an eyecatching but delicate range that can be customised to suit moods, outfits or the season, giving the wearer a light, bright and easy-to-wear fashion pick-me-up.

Prices include exclusive point of sale and packaging materials.

For the summer season, the Stack Ring Co, by Silver Willow, has added to two of its existing rhodium-plated 92.5 sterling silver ranges, and is also excited to be launching a brand new collection of nine carat gold stack rings.

The Prima range has been enhanced by a new vintage collection of designs, which contrast big, sparkling cubic zirconia in many shapes and sizes with pretty, intricate surrounds influenced by the galaxy; while the Freedom range is transformed into ‘vintage chic’, allowing wearers to step backwards into their chosen era via the faceted cubic ziconia, enamel flowers and love hearts and funky, textured bands.

Meanwhile, the new gold collection sees quirky textures with polished, brushed and matt finishes, complemented by dazzling diamonds, glistening rubies and sparkling sapphires; a combination the company says is “sure to be any girl’s best friend”.

With its new Silverings stackable ring collection, Zoppini states that

6

it is celebrating every person who wishes to express their individuality through jewellery. Made in Italy, the trendy Silverings range, distributed

by Charisma Jewellery, features silver rings with Swarovski Elements, making them an elegant and beautiful addition to any collection. “Offering an endless choice in how the rings are arranged, the Silverings collection makes adapting one’s jewellery to a lifestyle stylishly easy,” states the company. “Simply add or subtract rings to move from special occasion to everyday glamour.”

“Stack rings have become very popular in recent years, particularly with women who are looking for rings that complement their existing jewellery or want to create their own design by combining different pieces together,” comments Fable Trading, sole UK and Republic of Ireland distributor for Trollbeads, which this year celebrates its 35th anniversary.

The majority of Trollbeads’ rings can be worn as stacking rings, creating an individual look unique to the wearer.

1) Balagan: 0845 260 0925 • 2) ECS Silver: 00 353 861 703 619 3) Silver & Co: 0207 400 0000 • 4) Stack Ring Co: 01823 698 898 5) Trollbeads: 0117 377 4214 • 6) Zoppini: 0117 959 4439

44

Teen jewellery

Youth culture Laura Johnson speaks to five jewellery suppliers who are catering to the demanding and complex, yet lucrative and exciting teenage market

Teen jewellery

T The Silvery

Nova Silver

hey’re an exceptionally discerning customer group; notoriously difficult to please, extremely style conscious and accustomed to throwing almighty strops if things aren’t quite to their taste. Yes – teenagers are the latest jewellery buyers the savvy retailers and designers are eagerly trying to woo.

Our teenage years are characterised by discovering and expressing our individuality. In these years we develop our adult personality, and one of the key ways we seek to express this is in how we dress. From gothic-inspired teen rebellions to sugar-coated pop princesses – whatever the style influence, jewellery enables teenagers to put a personal stamp on an outfit and stand out from the crowd. And it appears the jewellery industry has awakened to the massive buying potential of this attention-seeking customer group.

From the rise of quirky brands specifically catering for the more extravagant, fashion-led tastes of this youthful market, to specially created sub-brands from more well known jewellery houses, everyone is looking for ways to get the much craved-for nod of approval from this jewellery-loving audience. But designing for this age group is a delicate balancing act.

“Teenagers are walking a fine line between wanting to express their individuality and wanting to show which ‘tribe’ they belong to and gain approval of their peers,” says Jules Asch of The Silvery. “Our designs appeal to the teenage market because they’re different and quirky without being too challenging and risking derision from their peers for being too weird or unfashionable.”

The Silvery takes real organic items and covers them in layers of pure silver using the process of electroforming, creating pieces that are simple but truly unique. How they are then displayed adds further individuality.

“Our black rubber nitrile chokers have been very popular because of their cool, surfer style, which also appeals to the more alternative teens,” Asch explains. “They [teenagers] also like our big chunky pendants worn low on long lengths of black cord as they are real statement pieces, while girly girls love our delicate tiny shell jewellery, especially the charm bracelets, because they are so pretty. And the feathers are popular gifts between sisters and friends because of the angel connotations.”

The gift market makes this customer group particularly lucrative – something brands working with pricier precious materials are alert to. “The 18 to 21 year old market is a big market, especially because people are buying special things for people to keep for a very long time,” says Simon Millership of Nova Silver.

Landmark birthdays are occasions to invest in pieces with longevity and value, rather than obscurity. Nova Silver’s Kitten range appeals directly to this sentimental market by using semi-precious and precious metals and incorporating current day trends (such as 1950s and bohemia) into their designs with subtlety. This creates classic pieces that can be worn with pride now, but will still have a nostalgic sense of charm for the receiver later on in their adult life.

Other designers, however, prefer to appeal to the highly fickle nature of teenage buyers. Adam Rowe and Tiina Hakala’s titiMadam collection is targeted at the more outlandish tastes of older teens. They’ve carefully aligned their prices to appeal directly to this fast fashion crowd. “Keeping our prices down allows teenagers to add our products to their outfits without breaking the bank,” says Rowe.

By working with more accessible materials such as acrylics, wood, steel and brass, the Finnish-British design duo inject a serious amount of colour and imagination into their designs.

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45

46

Teen jewellery

“We keep our product range fun and interesting,” Rowe adds. “We’re always changing and adapting – a huge range of colours and products means there is always something new keeping the teens interested. Our core collection with acrylic animals is always the most popular and with over 2,000 possible options, it means people can really get something to suit them and their personality.”

Surprisingly, there seems to be a distinct lack of pretention in the teenage market’s tastes. “We try and make everything fun and interesting – everything has a sense of humour to it,” adds Rowe. “Our number one seller of all time is Bambi as a pendant. What can I say; it’s Bambi and everyone loves Bambi.”

“ Teenagers are walking a fine line between wanting to exp ress their individuality and wanting to show which ‘tribe’ they belong to and gain approval of their peers” From the clouds and flowers in Nova Silver’s designs, to titiMadam’s sausage dog pendant, teen jewellery seems to be all about not taking jewellery, or yourself, too seriously. Even the bigger brands are adapting their designs and infusing some of this youthful spirit into their signature styles.

High-end jewellery company Chamilia recently launched its Miss Chamilia collection, adding designs featuring animals, flowers, purses, stars, symbols and an exclusive Disney Collection to its already wide range of hand-crafted beads. The build-your-own ethos that has made the adult Chamilia range so successful, easily translates into an appealing package for the fashion curious and pernickety age eight to fourteen year old market. Miss Chamilia simply allows the young customer to choose and add to the beads in their personal collection, becoming their own designer.

“Young girls love to accessorise,” says Melissa Wilson, marketing director at Chamilia. “We wanted to develop a brand and range that could be personalised so that each individual can show their individual style.” The results are one-off pieces that perfectly mirror the young wearer’s personal taste, style and interests as they gradually find their fashion feet. “Personalisation is huge,” Wilson adds. “These young girls want to make a statement about who they are and what they like. They each get a bracelet, but the individual beads tell a story about them.”

Sticking with the charm theme, Jo for Girls has found that teenagers are especially drawn to its smaller beads, as they are much more affordable yet just as attractive to the eye. “We have taken our most popular jewellery designs and made them into charm beads, which are worn on the neck as well as the wrist,” says company director Linda Lambert. Meanwhile, the Jo for Girls Forever Friends collection offers another option to younger teens who want to treasure their jewellery with their best friend, with split pendants and split charm beads.

Teenagers are a shrewd bunch; they know what they like and are unconvinced by imitation. They want something that reflects their individuality, and that demands your imagination. Simply jumping on the bandwagon and following the crowd will get you nowhere. As a customer group with a particularly low tolerance for crowd pleasers, jewellery designers and retailers need to work hard to earn this group’s respect.

titiMadam

Chamilia

Jo for Girls

Supplier listing: Chamilia: www.chamilia.com/uk • Jo for Girls: sales@perthshirejewellery.co.uk • Nova Silver: www.novasilver.co.uk The Silvery: www.thesilvery.co.uk • titiMadam: www.titimadam.com

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11:

48

DESIGNER

Sunsets and raindrops With designs inspired by Saudi Arabian souks, volcanic islands and glowing sunsets, Nicola Bond is offering women a new refined yet casual look through her jewellery, under the brand name Designed By Bond. Louise Hoffman finds out more What led you to become a jewellery designer?

I have a fine art degree and have always been creative – at a very young age I could be found turning my parents’ lounge into a theatre; making fancy-dress costumes; and painting a mural across my school’s music wing (not on a whim, you understand – they did ask me to do so!). After graduating I continued my exploration of colour and shape when I trained at the International Glass Centre in Brierley Hill. Even when I took a side step into the business world as a change management consultant I spent my spare time sketching and, well, just making things.

Just dabbling wasn’t enough for me, though; I always hoped to make a living out of creating and design. When a serious skiing accident left me housebound for some months, I re-evaluated my career direction; I knew that from then on I wanted to work for myself, making a creative living. I soon came to realise that I had a strong leaning towards design, with my old passion for colour and form resurfacing, but it was after completing a life-changing short course at Central Saint Martins that I realised jewellery making was the road I had to take.

I have since been through a process of skills and design development, gaining as much knowledge and business development as I can across the board by way of self-learning, workshops and working in a boutique shop selling jewellery.

I understand you draw your inspiration from many exotic sources.

Can you tell us more?

I was born in South Africa, and spent my childhood in Saudi Arabia and my teenage formative years on a small volcanic island near the equator called Ascension Island, so exotic influences have been with me from an early age.

It is only now, as a jeweller, when I think back to my childhood that I realise the influence that living in Riyadh had.

We would explore the colourful and fragrant souks, delving into Aladdin-like caves full of gold jewellery and gemstones; spend our weekends picnicking in the Bondu, picking desert diamonds; and I’d watch my mum, festooned in gold jewellery and gemstones, cleaning the house – all normal stuff for an eight year old... or so I thought!

Ascension gave me a passion for contrasting colour and shapes, as I lived among dramatic volcanic vistas with fine golden beaches. But it is my fine art training that gave me my inspirational eye that tends to pare things down two dimensionally, focusing in on a subject to the core elements so that a Medina sunset experienced one evening while on holiday becomes a sweep of colour. Being strongly influenced by such artists as Joseph Albers I explore the ‘interaction of colour’ experienced on my travels and the world I live in, whether a Marrakech medina or a wet, wintery, cobbled street in Sussex. My sources aren’t always exotic; they come from my life, where I have been and where I am.

Is there a specific design concept behind your brand?

As well as ensuring that all the designs fit our ‘exquisitely casual’ strapline, it is the evocative sweeps of colour and flowing form that inform the design concepts that drive the brand.

Living in hot countries nourished my love of water, as we spent our days either by the pool or in the sea. So it is only natural that I am really taken with the raindrop shape, which sprang to life out of my original logo sketches – a form that is as appealing to touch as it is to view.

DESIGNER

Images: Portland Studio, Sandgate, Kent

“The pieces develop by intuitively letting the interaction of the materials dictate the finished form” My designs combine these colour fusions with my trademark raindrops, and the pieces develop by intuitively letting the interaction of the materials dictate the finished form, creating elegant, evocative jewellery for the discerning woman looking for something different. It is important that each of my pieces is handmade here in the UK, so I source from suppliers that I have a personal relationship with and I like to do the same with the outlets that stock my jewellery.

Which techniques do you adopt when producing your jewellery?

My designs tend to drive the techniques I use. As well as traditional silver-smithing techniques, I carve shapes from wax, or pierce and manipulate sheet silver, to cast into silver centrepieces. I combine these cast pieces with strings of beads that look like they burst straight out from the silver. Making sure that the fixings are secure yet hidden is paramount to the look and feel of these pieces. I also work with hot kiln enamels. So far I use them in a small collection of men’s cufflinks, making bold pools of contrasting colour, though this could well extend into other ranges.

Do you have any favourite materials and stones?

I love working with semi-precious beads for their colour and hue. Size and shape is important; I search for small, even stones to create sweeps of colour, so that the eye focuses on the layers of colours rather than the individual form of the stone. I am also really enjoying the challenge of learning and exploring lost wax cast techniques, sculpting 3D shapes out of wax. And the fine artist in me loves to enamel, creating pools of colour framed within a silver border.

Did you enjoy the experience of launching your collections at February’s Spring Fair?

Very much... even though it nearly finished me off physically!

It was an invaluable and unforgettable experience launching

at such a big show. I received a lot of incredibly positive feedback and support from visitors, and the camaraderie among the jewellers there was fantastic, helping me enter into the business with feelings of affirmation and positivity.

Are you working on any new design ideas at present?

Absolutely! I am expanding the ‘Addo’ range and silver ‘Drop’ designs, which can be mixed and matched with many of the pieces across the Medina and Rye ranges. I am also working on a small collection of brooches and looking to bring more colour and texture into the silver pieces, by way of enamelling and oxidisation. It is also my intention to develop my men’s jewellery range to include bangles and pendants.

What are the next steps for your business?

It’s really exciting right now – my jewellery will be on show at Treasure during London Jewellery Week, from the 9 to 12 June, and in the Design Gallery at International Jewellery London (IJL) from the 4 to 7 September. My immediate focus is, therefore, working hard on preparing for these prestigious shows.

I am also chatting with the Creative Quarter in Folkestone, hoping to get more involved in the local creative community with teaching and collaborative projects ready for the Summer Art Triennial in Folkestone. Working on my own in my studio has highlighted the need for a network of like-minded individuals, not necessary working in the same industry but all in a creative field, to come together collaboratively. With this in mind I would like to set up a South Kent forum.

Starting a business, especially in this day and age, is a huge financial undertaking, so really the next steps are to get more sales and get my name known out there as a British brand of elegance and excellence.

49

50

TAKING STOCK

±±

Pearls are hot right now, and as June’s birthstone, Ag Silver’s new range of freshwater pearls are not to be missed.

Available in natural white, pink and grey, along with a variety of fun summer shades, the pearls are not only perfect for bridal jewellery but also great to team up with the latest summer fashions. Look out for the teal blue set (pictured), which includes a 120 centimetre knotted pearl necklace with silver clasp, along with matching drop earrings and bracelet.

Also available in petrol blue and raspberry red.

Information: 01603 631 314 or www.agsilver.co.uk

Takin Taking

stock

±±

KM Jewellery Ltd is proud to launch its longawaited Svane & Lührs It bracelet in the UK. A collaboration with Claus Svane and creative designer Pia Lührs from Denmark, the brand joins Mancini, Bellezza rings and children’s range Little Angels to become the latest addition to the KM Jewellery collection. The It bracelet, made of soft lambskin leather, allows any male or female to be creative and personal by choosing their favourite colour of wrap-around leather and choice of semiprecious stone and 925 silver charms.

Information: 0191 214 7074 or sales@km-jewellery.com

¬¬

This year, Malcolm Morris has been invited to take part in the Treasure exhibition, which will be held at Victoria House in Holborn from the 9 to the 12 June. Malcolm is exhibiting designs from his three collections – Apple Blossom, Magma and Oyster – and a selection of his contemporary diamond rings. His past customers have included HRH the Duchess of Gloucester, Joan Collins and Dawn French, as well as Gwyneth Paltrow, for whom he created tiaras for the film Shakespeare in Love.

Information: 0208 521 4984 or www.malcolm-morris.com

TAKING STOCK

­­

Delcam, an international computer-aided design and manufacturing (CADCAM) software company has launched its latest jewellery software, ArtCAM JewelSmith 2011, in both 32-bit and 64-bit applications. With ArtCAM’s 64-bit version, jewellers using a 64-bit operating system such as Windows can now increase the speed at which they work, as well as work with larger, more memory-intensive files. Grant Bailey from Artifacturing stated: “I feel like it’s bringing my hardware resources to bear. Calculations appear much faster, and it loaded a 250MB file in three seconds!” Image courtesy of ArtCAM, customer Miriam Rowe.

Information: 0121 683 1000 or www.artcamjewelsmith.com

¬¬

Tresor Paris’s collection is continuously expanding with exciting new designs and combinations. It has recently introduced new necklaces in 26- to 32-inch sizes and a variety of new anklets to the range. All orders for the Tresor Paris range will be dispatched for next-day delivery.

Information: 0207 831 6170 or sales@hanronjewellery.com

­­

In the heart of Scandinavia, where the northernmost tip of the Danish peninsula known as Jutland bends to the east and breaks the surging waters of the Kattegat and Skagerak, lies a small and picturesque fishing village. Its name is Skagen; and it is here that Skagen Designs found its name. Textured seashells are the inspiration behind the unique and contemporary steel mesh designs of the Charlotte collection, named after Skagen’s owner, Charlotte Jorst. The company describes the collection as having “shimmering class… featuring the spectacular symbol of the Skagen clashing seas.”

Information: 0121 779 8180 or www.skagen.com

­­

Hanalex Ltd is the sole distributor of a brand new range called Glamour. With the price of gold at an all-time high, the Glamour collection – which consists of bonded and alternate gold and silver jewellery – is the perfect solution, as the prices sit between gold and silver. To launch the Glamour range, Hanalex has put together a promotional package where all items come with free presentation boxes and a free matching display stand.

To celebrate its successful launch in January, Hanalex is also offering a free display stand and free presentation boxes on promotional offers of Kiss Silver products.

Information: 01270 872 395

51

Selling

52

Aren’t you forgetting something?

Leonard Zell explains the logic and reasoning behind add-on sales, to dispel some common myths

I

n my 30 years of training these are the reasons I have found for why salespeople do not try add-on sales. Do any of them sound familiar?

• It’s pushy – way too aggressive.

• It makes me look greedy.

• My customers will tell me if they are ready to buy more.

• I was lucky to close that sale. Why would I want to jeopardise it?

• I know my customers and I know when I can do that.

• What if I lose the first sale and that customer forever?

I hear these objections all the time from salespeople in the UK as well as the US. My replies are as follows: It’s pushy – way too aggressive – Aren’t you prejudging your customer? Maybe it was a stretch for him, but when he saw the diamond bracelet with the diamond ring he could envisage the reception he could get from his wife. His buying emotions just went off the chart.

It makes me look greedy – Like many salespeople, you are selling from your own pocket book. £5,000 or even £10,000 may be more money than you have ever thought of spending on jewellery. How can he afford it? Well, how do you know he can’t afford it?

My customers will tell me if they are ready to buy more – If you wait for your customers to tell you when they are ready to buy more, you will be waiting a long, long time. The truth is you are concerned that you may have reached too far.

No salesperson likes to be rejected, but remember your customers are in the mood to buy and the more they buy the happier they are.

I was lucky to close that sale. Why would I want to jeopardise it? – I hear this from salespeople who take from 45 minutes to two hours to close a sale. They feel awkward to try another sale after that length of time and cannot wait for their customers to leave with their single purchase. I have found that when salespeople take that amount of time they rarely try add-on sales. They have to learn how to speed up their sales.

I know my customers and I know when I can do that – I am glad you think you do because you are indeed blessed. You have either clairvoyance or X-ray eyes into their wallet. I often hear salespeople bragging about how well they know their customers. If that is you or one of your staff members, then why haven’t you or they noticed that over the years those customers’ finances may have improved by either a better

job or an inheritance? If you think your customers tell you everything then you believe in the tooth fairy.

What if I lose the first sale and that customer forever? – If that is cemented in your mind then you will never try add-on sales and that will be costly. Depending on the sales volume of your store that could cost well over £100,000 to £500,000 in lost sales! It is that fear of rejection again and the main reason that add-on sales in the US and the UK average a paltry five per cent of total sales. Think of the potential if you and your salespeople could overcome this fear!

The problem is not the customer; the customer is never the problem. How can they be when they come into your store in a mood to buy? Are you in the mood to sell? Maybe before the first sale, but what about after that, when your customers are still in a buying mood?

Instead of thinking of yourself, start thinking what is on your customer’s mind after she has selected that diamond ring you showed to her. In fact she doesn’t want to take it off her hand – she cannot wait to take it home and show it to her friends and you haven’t even completed the payment process yet. Of course she is in a buying mood – why should you fear rejection?

If you are a lady who just committed to buy a cocktail dress after you saw yourself in a three-way mirror, what is on your mind? I have asked that question for 30 years in all my classes and I get a resounding: “The shoes and handbag.”

When I ask the men: “What was on your mind after you committed to your favourite car after a trial drive?” there are many answers, such as surround sound radio, chrome wheels, custom floor mats, and an upgrade to leather seats. They get the idea that if they were that motivated to buy, surely their customers are too?

This shows why salespeople need not fear any rejection.

They need to know the logic and good reasoning behind any sales technique before they add it to their selling skills. If you point it out to them like I did, that is what motivates them.

For more information on closing add-on sales and to increase your sales, order Leonard’s best-selling 180-page sales manual on proven jewellery selling techniques.

And for the perfect complement, order – a full day’s sales training seminar recorded live on three CDs. You may order from his web page, , and also download his sales articles. Leonard will be scheduling seminars for jewellers in the UK for June and July. For details of his programme go to his website and click on ‘Testimonials’ and you will hear videos and read emails of jewellers in the UK who have benefitted from Leonard’s sales training. You may email Leonard at or call him on 001 503 412 9521.

Retail crime

The four Cs of security

The Metropolitan Police Flying Squad is responsible for the investigation of all robberies against jewellery premises in the Metropolitan Police District, as well as playing a much wider role, working with the industry to reduce incidents of robbery and to identify best practice for reducing that risk. Crime prevention co-ordinator Mark Beale examines some of the key areas in which jewellers can improve their security, in many cases for little or no cost

T

o value a diamond you use the four Cs; the cut, colour, clarity and carat weight must all be taken into consideration to give an accurate valuation. If any of the Cs are missing the valuation is inaccurate and not complete. Security is similarly comprised of a number of different elements to ensure a safe and secure environment for you, your staff and customers. Like the four Cs for valuation of a diamond, the four Cs for security all need to be present.

Customer focus

The first C in the security arena is Customer focus and this has the benefit of improving not only security, but potentially sales as well. Many offenders seek out premises where they are able to offend with the least risk of being caught. They look for venues where staff are not as attentive as they could be, where their actions are overlooked or ignored by staff, and where they are left to browse without assistance. Greeting all customers as they enter your premises is an excellent start, next is ensuring that anyone

Image: Kriss Szkurlatowski

54

Retail crime

who you are not happy with receives that extra attention.

A question such as: “Are you looking for anything in particular?” or a simple: “Can I help you?” can be enough to discourage the would-be offender.

The next C is for Compliance. Almost all jewellers have set procedures in place for opening and closing, showing expensive items and accessing safes and other secure areas.

Unfortunately, on many occasions following a robbery it is clear that these procedures have not been adhered to by staff members. The time and effort taken to identify risks and introduce measures to reduce those risks is only effective if all staff comply with the procedures at all times.

This raises a number of questions: are your procedures regularly reviewed? Are the measures you have in place still relevant and effective? Have staff been trained or informed of procedures? Are the procedures enforced? If the answer is yes to all these questions your security regime will be more robust and can help to reduce the risk.

Communication is key

The third C relates to CCTV and other physical security measures, which are only effective if they are working and correctly used. CCTV is considered by many to be an important security measure, capturing imagery of offenders and the incident, but who is CCTV for? In many cases CCTV plays two important roles: the first is as an early warning system for staff in back room areas who are able to see a monitor, and the second role is in assisting police to identify and arrest offenders. The positioning of cameras can have a significant impact on the ability of police to identify offenders. Many cameras are placed at ceiling height looking down on the premises, which makes identification difficult. Ideally one or two cameras should be lower down at head height to give a good head and shoulders image of all persons entering the premises. Other cameras should cover vulnerable areas including high value or desirable stock and safes or other secure storage areas. All cameras should be fixed to cover the identified areas.

All security equipment should be regularly maintained and used for the purpose for which it is designed. Safes should be locked at all times. If airlocks are installed the inner door should not be wedged open. CCTV should record at 25 frames per second and all images should be retained for 31 days. CCTV equipment should be checked daily to ensure cameras are facing the right way and that recording is taking place. These simple measures should ensure that you are seen as a much tougher target, and if a robbery does occur you may reduce the loss and assist police in identifying offenders quickly.

The final C is for communication and training. These are key areas for all staff. Ensure staff members are aware of the current risk and what action to take if they are suspicious of a person, vehicle or other event or if a robbery occurs. Keep a log and record details of any suspicious persons or vehicles, and the date and time of each incident – this will assist police in any subsequent investigation. What is suspicious? In short, if you think it is suspicious, it is suspicious.

Contact your local police Safer Neighbourhood Team (SNT) and ask what crime is like locally; are they aware of any robberies or other offences targeting jewellers in the area? Try to encourage the SNT to visit on a regular basis so that you are kept up to date with changing crime trends and patterns. This communication will better enable you to ensure that you have the most relevant security measures in place and you and your staff are aware of the risks you face locally.

The collaborative approach works

The Flying Squad is responsible for working with a number of other sectors and has identified methods that work for reducing the risk of robbery. A major sector is the bookmaking industry. Working in collaboration with the bookmakers and the Association of British Bookmakers and other partners, a robust set of security standards to address robbery was produced. These standards, known as the Safe Bet Alliance, have been adopted by the larger bookmakers and many independents. The standards were developed with the industry to ensure that they were achievable, realistic and cost effective. The majority of bookmakers had implemented the standards in the early part of 2010 and the end of year figures for 2010 to 2011 have revealed a 46 per cent reduction in offences targeting bookmakers.

Work is currently being undertaken with the jewellery sector, including major retailers, trade associations and other partners, to introduce a similar standard for jewellers.

It is hoped that the document – The Jeweller’s Personal Safety and Security Guide for Robbery – will be widely available and accessible to all in the very near future. The document provides more detailed information on the points discussed here and additional information relevant to jewellery security. This guide will be available from a number of sources, including the Metropolitan Police website: www.met.police.uk

Conclusions

Robbery is a traumatic offence that affects people in many different ways, and the cost of this type of offence can have a significant impact on your business. In some instances businesses have ceased trading following an attack. The financial loss, increased insurance premiums and loss of trade following a raid all impact on the business. The four Cs of security can reduce these risks. Keeping it simple and initially focusing on Customer focus, Compliance, CCTV and Communication will have little financial implication and could improve your security considerably.

55

56

INDUSTRY DATA

Prices • Figures • Outlook Retail sales volume: March 2011 The volume of retail sales during March increased by 1.3 per cent compared to March 2010, while the value increased by 4.5 per cent over the same period. The largest contributions to this change came from other non-food stores (an increase of 8.2 per cent) and, predictably, non-store retailing (which increased 13.1 per cent). Other increases also came from motor fuel and department stores.

Over the same period, non-seasonally-adjusted retail sales volume decreased by 0.1 per cent, dominated by a decrease of 1.2 per cent for large retailers.

However, there was good news for small retailers, whose same volume increased by 3.9 per cent.

All stores, with the exception of household goods stores, experienced increases in the value of retail sales, while, year-on-year, prices across all stores are estimated to have risen by 3.4 per cent.

Over the period covering February to March 2011, retail sales volume increased by 0.2 per cent. The value of retail sales from the same period increased by 0.1 per cent.

Source: ONS

Metal prices

Mar 11

Apr 11

May 11

Change

Sterling silver (£/Kg)

644.61

718.64

687.87

Minus 4%

Gold (£/g)

28.26

28.68

29.64

Plus 3%

Palladium (£/g)

15.81

15.55

14.40

Minus 7%

Platinum (£/g)

35.69

35.43

35.31

No Change

Rhodium (£/g)

48.10

47.14

43.27

Minus 8%

Iridium (£/g)

21.42

20.84

20.62

Minus 1%

Ruthenium (£/g)

3.58

3.57

3.53

Minus 1%

Scrap metal prices

Mar 11

Apr 11

May 11

Change

Sterling silver scrap (£/kg)

605.24

674.74

645.85

Minus 4%

9ct Gold scrap (£/g)

10.23

10.38

10.73

Plus 3%

14ct Gold scrap (£/g)

15.96

16.19

16.73

Plus 3%

18ct Gold scrap (£/g)

20.46

20.76

21.45

Plus 3%

22ct Gold scrap (£/g)

24.98

25.35

26.20

Plus 3%

Platinum (95%) scrap (£/g)

28.82

28.61

28.51

No Change

Data supplied courtesy of Cookson Precious Metals. www.cooksongold.com All prices shown on this page enjoy indicative status only. Jewellery Focus and Cookson Precious Metals accepts no responsibility for their accuracy or for any use to which they may be put

Diamond prices

Mar

May

Jul

Sep

Nov

2010 Seasonally adjusted figures

Jan

Mar

2011

Weight

G/VVS

G/SI

J/VVS

J/SI

J/I1

0.05 Carat

1,614

934

1,172

849

748

0.10 Carat

1,584

1,041

1,573

932

699

0.25 Carat

2,636

1,456

2,203

1,238

845

0.50 Carat

6,335

2,956

3,871

2,534

2,112

0.75 Carat

7,611

4,757

5,012

3,534

2,854

1.00 Carat

14,089

7,470

9,584

6,160

3,932

The table above has been prepared by SafeGuard and is an average of the retail selling prices of round brilliant cut diamonds per carat including an average retail markup and VAT. There is no allowance for the mount but the prices have been taken from mounted goods prices. The table is also compared with International diamond prices for additional accuracy.

Compiled at 3rd May 2011 /Dollar Exchange Rate 1.6481

INDUSTRY DATA

Hallmark figures April 10

April 11

Variance

%

541

1,738

1,197

221.3

Silver 999 958

379

403

24

6.3

925

594,986

378,876

-216,110

-36.3

800

1

4

3

300.0

595,907

381,021

-214,886

-36.1

25

26

1

4.0

Gold 999 990

2

6

4

200.0

916

28,083

28,119

36

0.1

750

81,421

61,639

-19,782

-24.3

585

11,632

4,968

-6,664

-57.3

261,783

160,923

-100,860

-38.5

382,946

255,681

-127,265

-33.2

375

Platinum 999

95

0

-95

-100.0

950

22,888

20,994

-1,894

-8.3

900

89

12

-77

-86.5

850

1

5

4

400.0

23,073

21,011

-2,062

-8.9

2

2

100.0

8,794

-2,556

-22.5

Palladium 999 950 500

11,350 4 11,354

Total

1,013,280

3

-1

-25.0

8,799

-2,555

-22.5

666,512

-346,768

-34.2

The April hallmarking figures show a further decline in the total number of units hallmarked by the four UK assay offices, down 34.2 per cent against the same month last year overall. All categories of metal are in decline including sterling silver, which is 36 per cent down – hardly surprising given the on-going and significant increases in the price of silver, which rose by nearly 25 per cent from £23.45 on the 1 April to a record £29.26 on 28 April, dropping slightly in the first few days of May. That said, silver still represents 57 per cent of the total number of articles hallmarked in the UK.

57

58

EVENTS and auctions

Events 2 – 6 June Swiss Watch by JCK Four Seasons Hotel & Mandalay Bay Las Vegas, Nevada, US

10 – 13 June ZAK Jewels Expo Vivanta by Taj Connemara Madras India

www.jcklasvegasshow.com/ en/Swiss-Watch-by-JCK/

www.zakjewelsexpo.com

3 – 6 June JCK Las Vegas Mandalay Bay Hotel and Convention Center Las Vegas, Nevada, US www.jcklasvegasshow.com

18 – 20 June Treasures Guangzhou Guangzhou Jinhan Exhibition Centre Canton, China www.jewellerynetasia. com/en/fairs.html

23 – 26 June June Hong Kong Jewellery and Gem Fair Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre Hong Kong www.jewellerynetasia. com/en/fairs.html

29 June – 2 July & 6 – 9 July New Designers Business Design Centre London www.newdesigners.com

4 – 6 June NICHE: The Show Planet Hollywood Resort and Casino, Celebrity Ballroom Las Vegas, Nevada, US www.nichetheshow.com

5 – 7 June Pulse Earls Court London www.pulse-london.com

6 – 12 June London Jewellery Week Events across London www.londonjewelleryweek.co.uk

5 – 6 July Jovella Tel-Aviv Fairgrounds Tel-Aviv, Israel

24 – 26 July JA New York Summer Show Javits Convention Center New York City, New York, US

www.stier.co.il/english/ fairs/jovella/info.htm

www.ja-newyork.com/ jany/jany-summer

7 – 10 July Malaysia International Jewellery Fair KL Convention Centre Kuala Lumpur, Malaya

27 – 31 July Singapore International Jewellery Show Marina Bay Sands Singapore

www.elite.com.my

www.sijs.com.sg

9 – 11 July Hyderabad Jewellery, Pearl and Gem Fair HITEX Exhibition Centre Hyderabad, India

7 – 9 August JCK Toronto Metro Toronto Convention Centre Toronto, Canada

www.jewelleryfair.in

www.jcktoronto.ca

17 – 20 July Home and Gift Show Harrogate International Centre Harrogate

7 – 9 August Pure London & Pure Spirit Olympia Grand Hall London

www.homeandgift.co.uk

www.purelondon.com

22 – 24 July Times Glamour Hotel J W Marriott North Bombay, India

25 – 28 August Copenhagen Jewellery Fair Bella Center Copenhagen, Denmark

www.timesglamour.com

www.cphjf.dk

Pulse

Auction dates 2 June Fellows & Sons Second-hand jewellery and watches Birmingham www.fellows.co.uk

4 June Kent Auction Galleries Ltd Antiques and fine arts, including jewellery, silver and coins Folkestone Kent www.kentauctiongalleriesltd.co.uk

4 June P F Windibank Antique jewellery, silver, watches and clocks Dorking, Surrey www.windibank.co.uk

6 June Fellows & Sons Costume, silver jewellery and novelties Birmingham www.fellows.co.uk

8 June Bonhams Jewellery Edinburgh

www.bonhams.com

8 June Christie’s Important jewels King Street London

14 June Dreweatts 1759 Jewellery, silver, watches and coins Bristol

24 June Wellers Auctioneers Pawnbroker and secondhand jewellery Chertsey, Surrey

www.dnfa.com

www.wellersauctions.com

14 June Bonhams Jewellery Oxford

2 July Kent Auction Galleries Ltd Victorian and later effects, including jewellery, silver and coins Folkestone, Kent

www.christies.com

www.bonhams.com

9 June Fellows & Sons Second-hand jewellery and watches Birmingham

15 June Bonhams Jewellery Knightsbridge London

www.fellows.co.uk

www.bonhams.com

10 June Wellers Auctioneers Jewellery, watches, silver and clocks Chertsey Surrey

18 June Kent Auction Galleries Ltd Victorian and later effects, including jewellery, silver and coins Folkestone Kent

www.wellersauctions.com

7 June Fellows & Sons Second-hand jewellery and watches Birmingham

14 June Campbells Jewellery, silver, clocks and watches Worthing West Sussex

www.fellows.co.uk

www.campbellsauctions.co.uk

www.kentauctiongalleriesltd.co.uk

5 July Capes Dunn Antique jewellery, silver, watches, wares and coins Manchester www.capesdunn.com

8 July Wellers Auctioneers Jewellery, watches, silver and clocks Chertsey, Surrey

www.kentauctiongalleriesltd.co.uk

www.wellersauctions.com

23 June Fellows & Sons Second-hand jewellery and watches Birmingham

9 July P F Windibank Antique jewellery, silver, watches and clocks Dorking, Surrey

www.fellows.co.uk

www.windibank.co.uk

13 July Bonhams Jewellery Knightsbridge, London www.bonhams.com

14 July Fellows & Sons Antique and modern jewellery Birmingham www.fellows.co.uk

18 July Fellows & Sons Wrist- and pocket-watches Birmingham www.fellows.co.uk

23 July Kent Auction Galleries Ltd Victorian and later effects, including jewellery, silver and coins Folkestone, Kent www.kentauctiongalleriesltd.co.uk

Directory

59

DIRECTORY

To advertise in this section please call our sales team now on 01206 767797 AMBER JEWELLERY

ASSAYERS BULLION DEALERS

BARCODING, LABELLING & PRINTING

BEADS

ANTIQUE Jewellery Enthusiasts

BOXES, PADS & PACKAGING

Untitled-1 1

ASSAYERS BULLION DEALERS

27/2/09 11:0

BOXES, PADS & PACKAGING

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Your views

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Steven Cooper of Aurora Jewellery, Orkney Could you tell us a bit about yourself? How did you come to found Aurora?

I am a native Orcadian, brought up on a farm.

I left school and went to study engineering in Aberdeen. I very quickly realised it was not for me and returned to Orkney, where I got a job with a local jeweller. During my 10 years there I worked on all aspects of jewellery production, including making master patterns.

All Aurora jewellery is crafted in the islands of Orkney, and your work seems heavily shaped by the history and culture of Scotland. What are your main design influences?

The design influences come from many areas.

Orkney is a very inspirational place with a wealth of historical sites, nature and beautiful scenery. Our countryside workshop overlooks Scapa Flow – many visitors question how we get any work done with such breath-taking views!

How many other designers do you have working for you?

We have two designers – Emma Thomson and Teresa Shearer. Both are Orkney girls and both have their own unique styles.

You have three shops throughout Scotland – do they all stock the same items, or is each specialised?

We have a small shop at the workshop, which sells the Aurora collections; a retail shop in Kirkwall (the main town in Orkney); and a retail shop in Thurso (the most northerly town on the UK mainland). As well as the Aurora collections, we sell a large range of quality giftware in our two retail shops.

What are your best-selling collections?

All our current ranges sell well, as we tend to discontinue ones that are less popular. This helps us keep a more manageable collection.

Obviously there are ones which outsell others – ranges such as Lyradale, Fea, Folk Heart, Poise and Crest are very strong.

Aurora has an online store – have you found that this has improved business? Is it essential for a 21st century jeweller to be online?

As yet, it is not an essential part of our business, but it is an important part. Obviously, as more people shop online then it is something that you have to cater for.

Do you have any favourite collections or designers?

My favourite collections are the ones that sell best!

What do you enjoy most about your job?

I enjoy all aspects of my job. I get great satisfaction from making jewellery and receiving compliments for doing so. I have a great team of staff, which makes the day-to-day running of the business a pleasure.

Finally, what are your plans for the future?

To continue making jewellery, using traditional methods, in our Orkney workshop.

26 – 30. 8. 2011

Time for business – time for trends Make a strong start – at the most important international consumer goods trade fair for the home and gift sectors in the second half of the year.

Take advantage of outstanding sales opportunities for the autumn, winter and Christmas seasons and obtain an early preview of the latest product ideas and trends for the coming spring.

For further details and tickets visit: www.tendence.messefrankfurt.com info@uk.messefrankfurt.com Tel. + 44 (0) 17 84 41 59 50