Jewellery Focus November 2011 by Designed by Arthouse Publishing

Jewellery November 2011 www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk £5.95 ISSN 2046-7265

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Harmony preserving Omani Heritage

cha r mi ng el egance

Gold special issue: eye-catching gold jewellery designs for the new season XX David Lamb of the World Gold Council shares his thoughts on the changing market XX Comment and advice on profiting from the still-lucrative trade in scrap gold

CONTENTS

Jewellery

FOCUS

November 2011 GOLD SPECIAL Designer of the month

Louise Hoffman finds out about the ethos behind Joseph Lamsin Jewellery, in conversation with its founder, Matthew Harris

Good as gold

28 31

Hannah Scott talks to David Lamb of the World Gold Council about the new world for gold production and consumption, and the enduring art of the goldsmith

Focus on gold jewellery

37 34

Despite the inflated prices, gold jewellery continues to be a perfect complement for autumnal colours. Jon Chapple examines some of the latest collections

Gold never loses its shine

Gary Williams of Presman Mastermelt and other representatives of the gold industry ruminate upon the subject of rising gold prices, and the surge in scrap

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE Editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s letter

Roundup

The latest news from the industry

Janet Fitch

Following up on her leads from the recent jewellery shows, Janet highlights some spectacular collections that have recently been launched

Keith Fisher

Focusing on one particular watch retailer, Keith highlights some of the qualities that have helped it to succeed in a changing market

Alternative materials

With precious metal costs still rising, Laura Johnson speaks to some of the designers thinking outside of the budget box with their jewellery designs

Wonder woman

How do they do that?

A choice selection of the latest charm jewellery Louise Hoffman catches up with Harriet Kelsall, who has recently been presented with a coveted 2011 Specsavers everywoman in retail award Andy Left and Luke Abbey from the Birmingham Assay Office explain the skills and processes involved in making a hallmarking punch

Syreeta Tranfield

Ones to watch

Trends in timepieces

Autumn charm

Following another successful Bright Young Gems initiative, Syreeta discusses the benefits of working with new designers to improve retail offerings

Taking stock

Luxury giftware High-end gift stock inspiration for jewellers

Back to basics

Leonard Zell

Events

Industry data

Voice on the highstreet

Even the flashiest of ecommerce sites can fall down as a result of something as simple as a spelling mistake, says Mathias Duda of FACT-Finder.com Leonard highlights the benefits of calling customers in advance of special occasions such as Christmas

New offerings from the industry

Mark Lloyd of Mobeus, Hartlepool

EDITOR’S LETTER

Editor’s letter D uring the past few weeks the Jewellery Focus team has been celebrating the magazine’s new status as an official Supporter of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC). As a publication which strives to help those operating within the jewellery industry to achieve business success, and to cultivate a strong and healthy sector, flourishing with innovation, positivity and creativity, we view fair trading as a key target for ongoing improvement. After all, a house built on solid foundations is so much more stable – as the well-known Biblical parable reminds us. The question of ethics in the jewellery industry is, as we are all well aware, a minefield. There are so many aspects to take into account when considering change – the local culture, economy and customs of the country in question, for example, as Harry Levy of the London Diamond Bourse pointed out when I interviewed him for our ‘diamond special’ issue back in June. In addition, the global supply chain is so complex, that introducing a single set of enforceable standards is a task of epic proportions. Many organisations have tried and failed to reach this Holy Grail, but the point is that they made the effort, and that they made a difference and raised awareness along the way. One thing is for sure – this huge task requires a huge army, with carefully and sensitively considered tactics rather than the bulldozer variety. The more individuals who join the fight and play their part, however small, the more progress can be made, and the RJC is doing a wonderful job not only of campaigning for change, but as a recognised conduit through which these separate entities can join together. I hope that our support will help lead to a better trading environment in the future.

Jewellery FOCUS

Editor Louise Hoffman

louise@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Editorial Assistants Jon Chapple jon@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Naida Ally

naida@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Production Assistant Lewis Bowes copy@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Group Advertisement Manager Kelly Smith kelly@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Sales Executive Katie Thurgood

katie@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Accounts Maureen Scrivener

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Contributing writers: Andy Left • Gary Williams Hannah Scott • Janet Fitch Keith Fisher • Laura Johnson Leonard Zell • Luke Abbey Mathias Duda • Syreeta Tranfield Design Arthouse Publishing Solutions Ltd 01394 410 490 contact@arthousepublishing.co.uk

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This month’s cover features DEEMA

Deema is an exclusive and authentic jewellery design house based in Oman – the country’s first fine jewellery brand. The brand offers high-end fine jewellery that is designed to be tasteful, elegant and finely finished, in exclusive and limited editions. The collection includes rings, pendants, necklaces, earrings, bracelets and bangles in precious metals, incorporating an array of precious and semi-precious stones and pearls. The brand says that following the great success of its collections so far, it is now working on a new line for teens and little girls. Front cover imagery by Neilson Photography. Information: 0096 896 444 200 or shadya@deemacollection.com

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Harmony preserving Omani Heritage

www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk

char ming elegance

Gold special issue: eye-catching gold jewellery designs for the new season X David Lamb of the World Gold Council shares his thoughts on the changing market X Comment and advice on profiting from the still lucrative trade in scrap gold

The editor and publishers do not guarantee the accuracy of statements made by contributors or advertisers, or accept responsibility for any statement that they express in this publication. The opinion of the contributors may not necessarily be the opinion of the publishers. Articles are considered for publication on the basis that they are the author’s original work. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the permission of the publishers.

ROUNDUP

And briefly Rotary reports record sales Family-run watch manufacturer Rotary Watches has reported record sales for the first half of 2011, up 18 per cent year-on-year in Britain and a massive 66 per cent internationally. “Rotary sees that consumers are showing a preference for brands strongly identified with integrity and longevity,” said a statement from the company, “so that during difficult periods customers can have confidence in brands rooted in tradition and heritage. With the general economic climate in the doldrums, Rotary is proud to be bucking the trend both at home and overseas.”

Jewellery Focus becomes a Supporter of the Responsible Jewellery Council Jewellery November 2011

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£5.95

ISSN 2046-7265

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Jewellery Focus is proud to announce that it has become an official Supporter of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), aligning its commitment to transparent business endeavours with the RJC’s mission to advance ethical practices throughout the jewellery supply chain, from mine to retail. “We are delighted to announce Jewellery Focus as a Supporter of the RJC. Jewellery Focus joins institutions such as IDEX Online, Collection Pan-Arab Luxury Magazine, BASELWORLD, JCK Events, IJL, Brink’s Global Services, Compagnie Gold special issue: eye-catching gold jewellery designs for the new season Financière Richemont SA and ABN AMRO as valued RJC Supporters, as well as more than 330 companies and trade associations in the Council’s growing membership,” said Michael Rae, RJC’s chief executive officer. “Though applying ethical standards across the entire industry is a huge task, each time someone joins the fight we take a step towards making it a reality. I hope that we will see more progress during 2012, through determination, innovation and collaboration, but with sensitivity and careful consideration of the surrounding issues,” added Louise Hoffman, editor of Jewellery Focus. Harmony preserving Omani Heritage

char ming elegance

X David Lamb of the World Gold Council shares his thoughts on the changing market

Lady Gaga suing jewellery company Singer-songwriter Lady Gaga is suing an American jewellery company for attempting to use her name without permission. Excite Worldwide LLC, which had planned to market a range of items under the names ‘Lady Gaga’ and ‘Lady Gaga LG’, has already made applications to the United States Patent and Trademark Office in order to secure the trademarks. Although the applications are understood to have been rejected, Gaga – real name Stefani Germanotta – is seeking unspecified financial damages for “cashing in” on her fame.

CBI welcomes extension of unfair dismissal period The Confederation of British Industry (CBI) has welcomed the Government’s announcement that it will extend the qualifying period for unfair dismissal claims from one to two years. John Cridland, the CBI’s director-general, said: “Extending the qualifying period for unfair dismissal is a very positive step. We have been urging the Government to do everything it can to make it easier for firms to grow and create jobs, and this will give employers, especially smaller ones, more confidence to hire.”

Growth of 134 per cent for Hot Diamonds Hot Diamonds has experienced a hugely successful start to the autumn/winter season, with the launch of five new collections providing the platform for a 134 per cent increase in sales compared with September 2010. Managing director Sanford Simpson commented: “The initial reaction to our recent initiatives and newness has been overwhelmingly positive, and we will work hard to retain this momentum throughout the Christmas period and into spring/summer 2012.”

X Comment and advice on profiting from the still lucrative trade in scrap gold

BRC criticises minimum wage rise The increase of 2.5 per cent in the National Minimum Wage, which came into effect on the 1 October, is a disproportionate rise that makes it harder for retailers to maintain and create jobs in the current climate, according to the British Retail Consortium (BRC). The increase takes the adult minimum wage from £5.93 to £6.08 per hour. The BRC says it supports the principle of the minimum wage as a basic floor for decent pay, but had urged the Low Pay Commission (LPC) to recommend a lower rise, which it believed would have been “more in line with economic realities.” “Supporting jobs in the current climate is essential,” said BRC director-general Stephen Robertson. “Minimum wage increases inevitably push up salaries across the board and make it harder for companies to maintain and expand their workforces. “Retail employs nearly three million people, and a third of our staff are 25 or younger. Retailers are offering young people their first step on the career ladder and backing that up with training and development opportunities. In support of those efforts, we are asking that next year’s minimum wage rise is kept at 2.1 per cent or below.”

Harriet Kelsall named Woman of the Year in retail awards Harriet Kelsall, founder and managing director of bespoke jewellery company Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design, has been named Woman of the Year 2011 at the Specsavers everywoman in Retail Awards. At a ceremony held on the 14 September at London’s Savoy hotel, judges praised Harriet’s “vision, innovative approach and success,” and described her as “an outstanding role model who will inspire more women to choose a career in retail.” “The Woman of the Year Award recognises the woman who is a truly inspirational and visionary individual,” they added, “and Harriet Kelsall is an exceptional role model for the industry.” Harriet Kelsall (pictured, with Dame Mary Perkins) started her jewellery business in 1998, operating out of a spare bedroom. Just over 10 years later, she now employs nearly 30 staff and has an annual turnover of £1.5 million. Turn to page 26 to hear from Harriet herself.

ROUNDUP

Laings of Glasgow to open new flagship store by the end of 2011

Celebrity endorsement

Laings of Glasgow has acquired another retail unit within the heart of the city’s Argyll Arcade shopping centre, with a view to opening a new flagship store by the end of the year. The new unit sits beside the historic Scottish jeweller’s current store and boasts a prime corner location within Glasgow’s jewellery quarter. As part of a wider refurbishment programme, both stores will be combined into one 3,000-square foot jewellery emporium. “The expansion is a huge project, and we’re looking forward to introducing the new in-store watch boutiques for our luxury brands, Patek Philippe, Rolex, IWC and Cartier,” said Laings’ Wendy Laing. She added that she’s “confident” the store will attract new customers for the sixth-generation family business.

Three per cent rise in attendance at Scotland’s Autumn Trade Fair Scotland’s Autumn Trade Fair, held on the 18 and 19 September at the SECC in Glasgow, reported 1,540 visitors in a three per cent rise in attendance compared to last year’s event. The show – which featured a mixture of gifts, homeware, jewellery, fashion accessories, textiles and Christmas products – hosted over 130 exhibitors. Mark Saunders, from show organiser Springboard Events, said: “Most exhibitors reported that they took more orders than expected and were extremely happy with their results. “It is a tough environment with understandably lots of caution and little appetite for risk. However the right products, price and customer service still tick all the boxes, and those suppliers doing this continue to outperform the market.”

Retailers connect at Retail IT’s 10th birthday bash in London Some of the biggest names in British retail gathered at the Fashion and Textile Museum in London on the 15 September to toast Retail IT’s 10th birthday. Representatives from brands such as Anya Hindmarch, Between the Lines, East, and Long Tall Sally attended the event to hear talks from a variety of speakers and celebrate the company’s 10 years of providing retail management software to retailers across the United Kingdom. James Rodger, Retail IT’s managing director, said the company’s vision for the next 10 years is to share “the truly cross-channel capabilities of its products” and focus on its end-to-end offering, which now includes managed connectivity for retail and capabilities to provide “hardware, software, technical skills, bespoke development and payment processing.” Commenting on the event, he added: “This has just been a great success. We love our customers, and it’s always just great to catch up with everybody. They’re very loyal – some of them have been with us for our entire 10 years – and we wanted to thank them for that. We’re really looking forward to the next decade, which promises to be even more exciting than the first.”

Sarah Parish, Ortak Sarah Parish has been named as the new face of Ortak. The award-winning English actress, known for her roles in hit television programmes Mistresses, Cutting It and, most recently, Monroe, stars in the Orcadian jewellery brand’s latest marketing campaign, which was rolled out at stores and online at www.ortak.co.uk in September. The campaign shows Parish getting back to nature in the picturesque setting of the Suntrap Garden in Edinburgh, where she modelled Ortak’s nine new ranges for leading Scottish photographer Stephen Kearney. The campaign is split into three main themes – ‘Time to Play’, ‘Time to Shine’ and ‘Time to Explore’.

ROUNDUP

Diamond market

‘Decent demand’ at Hong Kong show but markets still cautious Late September and early October witnessed slow trading in polished diamonds, a weak rough market and buyers asking for deep discounts – with cashstrapped Indian suppliers obliging – as economic uncertainty fuelled caution in the diamond markets. Trading at the Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair was reportedly better than expected, with a “decent demand” from China. Elsewhere, Petra Diamonds took over the Finsch mine, De Beers signed a 10-year deal with Botswana, and Moshe Mosbacher resigned as president of New York’s Diamond Dealers Club following reports of financial irregularities. Polished exports and rough imports from and to Belgium in September rose 30 per cent to $1.6 billion (£1.04 billion) and 61 per cent to $1 billion (£648 million), respectively. Japan’s August polished imports also saw an increase of 39 per cent to $64 million (£41.5 million), while American retail sales stalled as consumers cut spending amid growing economic turmoil. Source: Rapaport TradeWire

Independent jeweller expansion in Norwich city centre Independent jeweller Winsor Bishop has recently opened the doors to its newly extended store at 39 London Street in Norwich. As well as doubling the size of its premises, Winsor Bishop is hoping to appeal to a broader customer base by introducing a range of stylish, more affordable jewellery brands to its extensive collection, including Hoxton, Missoma and East Anglia’s largest Links of London in-store showroom. A series of boutique areas have also been created for high-end brands including Patek Philippe, Panerai, Hublot and Breitling, which are exclusive to Winsor Bishop in East Anglia. Managing director Sophie Fulford said of the opening: “We listened to what our customers wanted, but also to what the public in Norwich wanted in terms of a luxury shopping experience. We’ve taken all of that into account, and our newly extended store has been received with such a positive response – more than we could have hoped for!”

Sally Hoban joins the BAO team The Birmingham Assay Office has announced the appointment of Sally Hoban to the new role of heritage and training officer. Hoban’s duties will be two-fold, bringing together aspects of the history and heritage of the Assay Office with a key strand of its future development, to provide a “high-quality education and training service for the jewellery trade and members of the public.” Hoban has over 20 years’ experience in the British antiques trade and is a specialist in the history of design, with an in-depth knowledge of jewellery and silver, particularly historical pieces from the Arts and Crafts movement. She is the author of the book Miller’s Collecting Modern Design, a regular contributor to the local, national and international press, and the chairwoman of the Heritage Committee of Birmingham Civic Society. “The Birmingham Assay Office has an existing and popular portfolio of specialist training courses aimed at professional jewellers and retailers, including an introduction to hallmarking and understanding diamonds,” she commented. “However, there is much potential for us to expand our current training provision. We are planning on launching a new heritage and education blog shortly with a view to sharing some of the treasures from our collection with a wider audience and providing up-to-date news on our current and future educational and training opportunities.”

Ball raises £50,000 for Retail Trust Leading lights in northern retail convened in Manchester on the 22 September for the Retail Trust Great Northern Ball, raising a massive £50,000 for the retail charity. The Point at Lancashire County Cricket Club hosted high-profile guests from across the sector, and attendees dined on a three-course meal before being treated to Vegas-style cabaret entertainment and a silent auction that raised over £10,000. Nigel J L Rothband, chief executive officer of Retail Trust, commented: “The Great Northern Ball is the first Retail Trust event to take place since the recent rioting, which highlighted the real need for our charity. Money raised tonight will help people in retail get access to counselling, emergency hardship grants and critical incident support. Funds raised will, of course, also benefit our retirement estates in Liverpool and Salford.” Meanwhile Iain Mackenzie, general manager of Harvey Nichols and chairman of the Northern Events Committee, added: “I was struck by the variety of attendees at the event. In these current financially uncertain times, it is important that all industries support one another economically and show support for good causes like Retail Trust.”

ROUNDUP

And briefly Unseasonable heat prompts high street slump The sunny weather in late September and early October may have given ice cream sellers an unexpected boost, but the unseasonal heat also hit the high street hard. That’s the message from BDO LLP, whose latest High Street Sales Tracker report revealed that total retail sales dropped by four per cent on a like-for-like basis in September – the steepest fall in demand since February 2009. Don Williams, national head of retail and wholesale at BDO LLP, said the combination of unseasonal weather, economic gloom and lack of promotions had been something of a “perfect storm” for the high street and fashion retailers in particular.

So Jewellery appoints three sales agents So Jewellery has announced the appointment of three new agents to look after existing and prospective customers in the north east of England, north west of England and Republic of Ireland. Heather Wilson, Brian Barlow and Kieran Scully join So Jewellery with a “wealth of experience in the jewellery trade,” having worked with a range of fine silver brands including Trollbeads, Silverado and Button & Co. Marketing director Emma Finney said: “We are confident that our stockists will benefit significantly from our agents’ contribution and look forward to working with them to support the continued success of So Jewellery throughout the UK and Ireland.”

RJC certification for KP Sanghvi HK The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has announced that Hong Kong-based diamond cutting and polishing company KP Sanghvi HK Limited has achieved full certification by meeting the “ethical, human rights, social and environmental standards” established by its member certification system. RJC CEO Michael Rae said the Council was “delighted to congratulate KP Sanghvi HK Limited on its certification.”

Monica Vinader charity bracelets Last month, Monica Vinader launched her Breakthrough Fiji bracelets, designed to support the Breakthrough Breast Cancer charity, which will receive 15 per cent from each sale. Available in silver or 18 carat yellow and rose gold vermeil, each bracelet features pink plaited ties, the colour commonly synonymous with breast cancer awareness.

Sym Jewellery presented with Country Brides supplier award Sym Jewellery has scooped the coveted ‘Jewellery Supplier of the Year’ accolade at the Country Brides Wedding Awards 2011. The Lancashire-based company saw off competition from other local and nationally-known suppliers to be presented with its award by the magazine’s publisher, Duane Thornborough, at a ceremony held at Mere Golf and Country Club. Sym was recognised for its “personal approach, attention to detail, quality of gemstones and overall craftsmanship.” Thornborough said: “The awards were based on nominations received from brides and bridegrooms across the north west, and Sym Jewellery are deserving and outright winners in this category. The competition was fierce, but having read the testimonials we received from each nominee, it is clear to see that it is the team and the products and ethical approach they take that captures the attention of couples looking to purchase wedding rings and accessories.”

Franck Muller showcase success The Franck Muller group recently held its second World Presentation of Haute Horlogerie (WPHH) & Jewellery event, which took place at Monaco’s Grimaldi Forum from the 29 September to the 2 October 2011. The event showcased the Franck Muller Group’s nine brands – Franck Muller, Franck Muller Jewellery, Pierre Kunz, ECW, Rodolphe, Barthelay, Backes & Strauss, Martin Braun, Pierre Michel Golay and Smalto Timepieces – and its four partners – Cvstos, Carlo Illario, Joaillier Privé and Valmont. Over the course of the three-day event, visitors were shown the new models presented by the 14 exhibiting brands, including Franck Muller’s selfwinding Lady Tourbillon, its Infinity Ronde timepiece and its collection of watches set with baguette-cut diamonds. The new iPhone application was also officially unveiled, which enables users to peruse the collection and locate stockists. The application will soon be available for free download from the Apple Store.

Forevermark launches pioneering 3D virtual try-on application De Beers’ Forevermark diamond brand has launched the first 3D virtual try-on for pendants and earrings, in partnership with creative agency AKQA and digital reality expert Holition. By using a webcam and the designated Forevermark cut-outs, the My Forevermark Fitting application allows customers to view themselves wearing a selection of Forevermark diamond rings, pendants and earrings in 3D. When activated, the pieces move and sparkle in real time, offering wearers a unique preview of the pieces in the comfort of their own homes. Jonathan Chippindale, CEO of Holition, explained: “Not only are users able to see real time light move throughout the Forevermark diamond, they are additionally able to imagine the way in which the unique articulated design will flow with their movement; a true reflection of the actual item of jewellery, which comes to life when worn.” The application is available for download on the Forevermark website.

TRENDS

Designs of excellence Following up on her leads from the recent jewellery shows, Janet Fitch highlights some spectacular collections that have recently been launched

t’s the November issue already, and the first of this month is the designated day for the Christmas lights in London’s Oxford Street to be switched on, hopefully precipitating a frenzy of shopping over the next couple of months. If the opening weeks of Westfield in Stratford are anything to go by, there is no shortage of eager would-be shoppers, and there is certainly no shortage of alluring jewellery to tempt buyers – I’ve been distilling my notes and impressions of all the recent shows, and there’s a lot to enthuse about. I was privileged to see an exclusive exhibition at Asia House to celebrate the exquisite jewellery of Carnet, Hong Kong, designed by Michelle Ong. Her jewellery is unforgettable – as Carol Woolton, jewellery editor of Vogue points out: “I’ve photographed Carnet’s Organdie diamond necklace on the long, slender neck of the model Lily Cole when only a diamond choker as light and fluid as a handstitched piece of Burano lace would do.”

There are jade carvings, vibrant flowers, butterflies and ruby dragons, shimmering rose-cut diamonds and softly moving chandelier earrings, with cascades of precious gems, all contemporary but timeless, and revealing her extraordinary ability to turn metals and priceless gems into something that ripples and flows like fabric. (www.carnetjewellery.com) Nearer to home, the award winning Sarah Ho, who this year added to her accolades with the Houlden Designer of Excellence Award, has created a new couture collection – Aurora, named after the Roman goddess of the dawn – which she designed in Thailand, inspired by the early morning sun over clear blue waters. She uses the highest quality pear-shaped stones, all from the beryl family – pink morganite, blue aquamarine, green goshenite and yellow heliodor – framed with brilliant-cut white diamonds with pink and yellow sapphire accents. To complement the jewellery, she has created a delicate silk chiffon scarf that mirrors the colours of the stones. (www.shojewellery.com)

Carnet

Sarah Ho

TRENDS

Alexander Davis Alexander Davis, whose career I’ve been following keenly, has added another Design Innovation Award to his portfolio with his Quark Super brooch. Its shape is based on deflection patterns produced in particle accelerators like the large Hadron Collider, and echoes the Big Bang itself, with coloured gemstones hurtling from a central point. The brooch is in platinum and 18 carat yellow gold, with 22 carat precious tanzanite, diamonds and sapphires. (www.alexanderdavisjewellery.com) Alexander has also been busy collaborating with Amber Atherton of cutting edge online boutique My Flash Trash, to create a limited edition collection called Typhoon Palace, inspired by the architecture and jungles of Indonesia, and the romance of India. Made of sterling silver, 18 carat rose gold and rhodium plate, set with amethyst, topaz and citrine, monkey necklaces and earcuffs, and the striking Temple ring are some of the pieces in this individual and stylish collection. (www.myflashtrash.com)

My Flash Trash

Dower and Hall

Amid the gorgeous colours to be found in jewellery this season, and in next year’s ranges, it is refreshing to see something in black. My favourite party jewellery is the Bewitched collection from Dower and Hall, with long necklaces, fashionable chokers and layered bracelets in sparkling black spinel adorned with gleaming dove grey freshwater pearls, perfect for teaming with a little black dress. (www.dowerandhall.com) Visitors to the British Museum’s Renaissance Jewellery Galleries from the end of this month will be able to see a fascinating display of men’s Renaissance jewellery, alongside a display of modern men’s jewellery, specially created for this exhibition by jewellers who are continuing their studies at Bishopsland Educational Trust. Bishopsland is a postgraduate training workshop, based in Oxfordshire, which takes young graduates from UK universities, and provides an outstanding one-year training to enable them to set up their own workshops. The exhibition, curated by Natasha Awais-Dean, highlights the fascinating distinction between men’s jewellery today compared with Renaissance times, when it was bling on bling, piling on the rubies, pearls, coral and amber. (www.bishopsland.org.uk)

Bishopsland Educational Trust

Watch this space

Best practice This month Keith Fisher uses one particular watch retailer as a case study for maximising customer service and ecommerce potential

he very learned Leonard Zell, my distinguished fellow columnist in this magazine, would be the first to tell you that one of the keywords in business is ‘feedback’. Not just the positive – which we all love to hear – but also the negative, which is critically important too, because it is hoped that we learn from our mistakes to make sure certain things never happen again. I talk to ‘watch people’ most days of the week. They come in all shapes and sizes; many are simply enthusiastic, and some are fanatical (like me!). However, with all of these thousands of watch-based conversations, I have not heard a single bad word against one particular emerging force in the world of watches: online retailer, the Watch Hut. So, for those who lead a sheltered life, let me give you some background information. The Watch Hut was launched in November 2005, offering branded watches at highly competitive prices. It is the internet arm of T H Baker & Co Ltd, a chain of jewellers established in 1888 by Thomas Henry Baker. The long and stable trading history and continued personal involvement of

Advertising is something that should be given real consideration, even, and maybe especially, during these economically troubled times

Watch this space

The growth of online retailing is clearly a phenomenon that is here to stay and there is something to be said for the reduced overheads on offer with ecommerce

the founder’s family has underpinned the businesses’ recent online growth. Indeed, the company – now run by the fifth generation of the family – has seen steady growth in its 113-year history, and has established 19 retail outlets spread throughout the Midlands and southern England. One advantage for the firm is that as a founder member of the Company of Master Jewellers, it is able to exercise bulk discounts and gain preferential rates from many manufacturers. The company has a policy of holding all items that it offers for sale in stock. This means it can offer high levels of customer service in comparison to its competitors. It is also a longstanding authorised UK stockist for all of the brands it stocks, including the premium lines of Tissot, Omega, TAG Heuer and Emporio Armani. Customers can rest assured they will be getting an authentic product with the full manufacturer’s guarantee, supported by the company’s own after-sales service. There is also a full ‘no hassle’ refund policy if for any reason the customer is unhappy with the purchase within 30 days of delivery. There are many features of the website which are of benefit to potential customers and which are worth considering if you are in the process of introducing or enhancing your own site. ‘In stock’ means just that – the watch is in stock and ready for dispatch. There is also same-day dispatch on all orders, with special delivery offered free to all customers making purchases

of more than £60. The company offers a range of secure online payment options including Amazon checkout, which provides customers with the option to pay for their goods using the well-recognised Amazon shopping site. The growth of online retailing is clearly a phenomenon that is here to stay and there is something to be said for the reduced overheads on offer with ecommerce. It restores the competitive advantage to smaller businesses by offering an added route to market and allows companies to have a national reach without an expensive presence on every high street. The Watch Hut is not frightened of spending money to build its brand either – advertising is something that should be given real consideration, even, and maybe especially, during these economically troubled times. Indeed, in preparation for the Christmas sales season, the company has launched a concerted TV advertising campaign with advertising appearing on targeted Freeview channels in the UK. So, good luck to all the team at the Watch Hut this festive season, and into 2012!

NEW TIMEPIECES

The MK2 Circuit from Storm is dubbed the ultimate geek chic gadget. With a futuristic design and green LED time display, at the press of a button the special edition MK2 Circuit displays the time – with lights on the left representing hours, and lights on the right donating minutes. With a date function and water resistance to 50 metres, the MK2 Circuit is a “techie’s dream”. Information: 0207 874 6900 or info@stormwatches.com RRP: £139.99

The new 45mm F-35 Lightning II Flight Calculation Chronograph from Luminox features a stainless steel case and precise and reliable 13-jewel Ronda quartz movement. Its standout feature is a 1/10-second indication, which takes the form of a semi-circular counter with bi-colour propeller hand that reads against a two-colour scale at the bottom of the dial. A sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating protects the dial, and the caseback depicts the F-35 Lightning II aircraft and the Lockheed Martin logo. Information: 0116 234 4656 or info@bml-watches.com RRP: £765 (with black leather strap) or £899 (with bracelet)

Calvin Klein says the intersecting design of its feminine ck Enlace watch evokes grace and sophistication. The timepiece is offered in both small and medium sizes, each closed with a jewellery buckle, while its intertwined bangle, available in polished stainless steel or PVD gold, is described as “perfect for the stylish and confident woman.” Polished hour and minute hands smoothly rotate around a black, silver or PVD gold dial crowned with a ck Calvin Klein logo at 12 o’clock, and water resistance is offered up to three bar. Information: 0845 296 2447 RRP: £225 to £290

Ones

to watch

With the Zürich Weltzeit, NOMOS Glashütte brings a surprise – a watch “that tells you at a glance what time it is… almost everywhere.” Made possible by a 24-hour disc integrated in the timepiece’s calibre, at the press of a button any foreign timezone can be made to appear in the 12 o’clock position. The company says that the watch took “two years of development, 23 completely new precision parts and umpteen design hours.” Information: +49 350 534 040 or nomos@glashuette.com RRP: £3,228 (prices may vary from time-to-time based on the rate of exchange)

Creativity

Alternative materials With precious metal costs still rising, Laura Johnson speaks to some of the designers thinking outside of the budget box and industry traditions with their jewellery designs

luctuating, inflated precious metal prices have led to a massive shift in the jewellery-buying habits of the public, with the carat-, authenticity- and rarity-driven end of the market now more or less out of reach for the average consumer. Therefore, under pressure to find eye-catching collections that appeal to cash-strapped customers, we have seen retailers across the UK opening their minds (and doors) to collections where gold, silver, palladium or platinum content isn’t the centrepiece of the designs. Untrained in traditional jewellery making methods and freed from the restrictions of working with precious metals, three emerging brands reveal how they’re using alternative materials to challenge the traditions of the industry, many of which are now outdated in a changing and increasingly challenging world.

Kate Hamilton-Hunter

Winning the hearts of the ethically conscious consumer

There’s something endearingly familiar about Kate Hamilton-Hunter’s jewellery. It’s just initially hard to put your finger on exactly what it is. And then suddenly it clicks. Made from everything from vintage tobacco containers to beautiful floral biscuit and toffee tins, every piece of jewellery has its own story, having previously been treasured in a different form. “A lot of retailers say it’s the story that helps to sell my jewellery,” Kate says. “People can’t get their heads around the fact that the piece of jewellery they’re looking at is made from an old biscuit tin. That’s what they find fascinating about my work.” With a background in textile design, Kate brings her eye for patterns and print to her jewellery making. Now supplying over 400 stockists, her jewellery appeals to today’s ethically-aware consumer. “As well as the jewellery itself, our packaging is all recycled and our ethos is very green across the whole company,” says the environmentally conscious designer. “Also every item is UK-made at my studio in North Wales. The British element is another reason people are buying it.” It’s not just a flattering glow of a clear conscience her jewellery offers. “The recycling element is fantastic, but with the recycled tin, you also get all these lovely old colours and flowers that you just could not reproduce,” she adds. “When I get a vintage biscuit tin and cut it into a piece of jewellery, there’s no other way you can get that type of design onto jewellery, even with enamelling.” Sold in attractive presentation boxes and with prices starting from £20 for earrings and £22 for a necklace, every item is perfectly positioned to appeal to the gift market – as well as her growing fan base of collectors.

“A lot of retailers say it’s the story that helps to sell my jewellery”

Creativity

Materials that capture a moment

GWYDR

When you think of stained glass, you automatically picture the breathtaking windows of some of the world’s most significant religious buildings. You definitely don’t associate it with jewellery. Yet GWYDR is using the juxtaposition of the bold colours and delicate nuances of stained glass with free-running solder to create a surprisingly wearable jewellery collection. “I have yet to come across anybody making jewellery the way I do, and certainly not to the same standard and quality,” says Leanne Bunce, lead designer and maker for the brand. A stained glass artist by trade, Leanne’s passion for her medium is clear. “With solder I can cut any shape of glass I want,” she says. “I never use a template. Everything is cut by eye and rounded by hand. Every shape is made in the moment. Every piece is different down to how the metalwork looks. For example, the temperature of the room can affect the appearance of a piece.” It’s the characteristics of the solder as much as the glass itself that give GWYDR jewellery its character. “Although the solder looks like silver, we’re not trying to simulate silver,” she explains. “There’s an intrinsic beauty in itself in the nature of the tin and silver solder.” With prices ranging from £60 to £180, GWYDR offers retailers the opportunity to sell entirely one-off pieces of wearable art with an affordable price tag. “Stained glass is such an ancient medium; we’ve been making glass for thousands of years and I’m really surprised people aren’t using it in jewellery very much at all,” Leanne says. “I’m thrilled as well, because it means we’re being innovative and different in what we’re producing.”

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Creativity

Judith Brown

“I liked the idea of recycling buttons that were hoarded away by careful grandmothers in the times of ‘make do and mend’”

A modern twist on ‘make do and mend’

“Textiles and stitching have always been part of my life,” says jewellery designer-maker Judith Brown. The quirky nature of her jewellery, which is made from haberdashery items, has been strongly influenced by her background in textiles. “Once I discovered that fine wire was available in a wide variety of colours, this was a door into a new way of working for me,” she explains. “I started stitching with wire rather than thread and without fabric, making the intricacy of the stitch the focus of my pieces.” Behind her designs is also a strong sense of nostalgia for a time when everybody knew how to make things for themselves. It’s this respect for frugality that seems apt in today’s economic climate. “I had my nana’s button tin from the early 20th century,” she remembers. “I liked the idea of recycling buttons that were hoarded away by careful grandmothers in the times of ‘make do and mend’ and making them into something elegant and wearable.” Experimenting with these buttons to create the earrings, bracelets and necklaces in her Vintage Collection opened her up to the possibility of using other haberdashery items. “I went on to develop my Vintage Noir range, made with old hooks and eyes and press studs, mostly from the 1930s to 1980s,” she says. “At first I was unsure about using these functional, almost industrial-looking hooks, eyes and press studs,” she admits. “But the final effect is elegant, with feminine pieces reminiscent of Victorian or Edwardian jewellery.” Strangely, it’s not the unusual items in her jewellery that catch your eye; it’s the designs themselves. “Customers seem to love the fact that in many of my pieces it’s not always immediately obvious that they’re made with vintage haberdashery, which is a great talking point for the wearer or gift giver.” Information

Kate Hamilton-Hunter: GWYDR: Judith Brown:

Charms

Autumn

charm

Chamilia has launched two new collections for autumn/winter 2011: Swarovski and Cabaret. The Cabaret Collection is inspired by the Montmartre district of Paris where the culture of cabaret began. Combining sterling with opulent colours, the Cabaret Collection is described by Chamilia as “bringing the best of artistic influences from the past to the present.” The Swarovski Collection includes 31 designs in sterling silver, with crystal Swarovski elements in a spectrum of colours. The designs are “effortlessly classic, feminine and elegant, inspired by all the latest colour trends.”

An update on the charm trend for the new season

Charms UK has a range of over 350 clip-on charms made in sterling silver featuring Murano glass, enamel, coloured cz, crystal and gold plate. The complete collection also includes a wide choice of styles of charm bracelets and necklaces along with matching earrings, bangles and pendants. Information: 0117 968 3979

Information: 0844 811 2142 or chamiliauk@chamilia.com

Continuing to develop its huge collection of “distinctive, innovative, individually hand-crafted bead designs,” Trollbeads has added a number of designs to its Autumn 2011 collection. Silver Whorl is described as a “classic piece, which really stands out for its intricacy of design,” and is also available in 18 carat gold. In a combination of silver and gold, Maternity, depicting a mother and baby, and Paternity, featuring a father and child, are “celebrations of family love and the gift of children.” Meanwhile, the Italian Murano glass beads, available in deep purples, corals and emeralds, showcase “the fine lampworking skills characteristic of Trollbeads.” These beads are perfect for autumn into winter, with shimmering ‘goldstone’ and ‘blue goldstone’ adding a seasonal sparkle. Information: 0117 377 4214 or www.trollbeads.co.uk

Since the launch of Sterlinx beads and charms, Magnetic Jewellers has become one of the leading suppliers of these products, offering pieces in silver and non-silver, cubic zirconia and glass, among other materials. Information: 07971 544 914 or sales@magneticjewellers.com

Interview

Wonder woman Louise Hoffman catches up with Harriet Kelsall, who has recently been presented with a coveted 2011 Specsavers everywoman in Retail award

Interview

Congratulations on winning ‘Woman of the Year’ at the recent Specsavers everywoman in Retail Awards! Can you attempt to put into words what this achievement means to you?

I was utterly flabbergasted when I won – especially next to such brilliant candidates from such well-known and successful companies. I feel the win was about our whole team (who are also thrilled!) and not just me, as our team are just as passionate about our bespoke jewellery company as I am! We’ve had an amazing year; in February we were chosen as one of the very first jewellers to be allowed to work in certificated Fairtrade gold, and then opened our newly refitted Cambridge shop – with a new concept selling proper ‘clean-sheet’ bespoke jewellery on the high street. This summer we had a lot of industry recognition, and then to receive this everywoman award was an incredible honour and the pinnacle of our success to date! It has given me much more confidence to keep following my instincts and not to be afraid to blaze a new trail. I am also now more determined to drive the business, which I started from scratch, up to a whole new level.

Did you receive any feedback from the judges about your work?

The judges said some lovely things about me – especially that I was an inspiration to others. I don’t really think of myself as inspiring so that was a lovely compliment.

Where is your new trophy residing?

The trophy – an amazing handmade glass shopping-bag-shaped trophy with beautiful glass barley-sugar twist handles – is in our entrance hall at our Halls Green studio. As it happens, our own company colour is a very similar shade to the everywoman purple!

Which factors, tangible or otherwise, do you think have helped you to become Woman of the Year?

I think it is probably because we have always been different from other jewellers and have always done things in a non-traditional way. When I started the business back in 1998, I had already established my jewellery website two years before most people had even heard of the internet. Also, when we started, the only way to get custom-made jewellery was to either go somewhere really posh and expensive, or to go to a ‘bloke with a bench’ who could make what you wanted,

but rarely had much design flare and couldn’t really advise you on what suited you or would work for your lifestyle. I think we were the first to use the term ‘bespoke jewellery’ (my grandmother was a tailor, so we stole the term from that industry!). I remember being worried that the term sounded a bit pretentious, or that my American customers wouldn’t understand it (as it isn’t a US word), but I guess it must be the right term as now everybody uses it. Anyway, I started designing and making proper bespoke jewellery with proper design education behind me and great craftsmanship, and strove to bring affordable, clean-sheet, bespoke design to a mass audience; not just assembling cast parts and not only working on CAD – we can work any way that is right for the customer, be that hand forging or whatever. I think our presence on the internet was a bit scary, and I always knew that people could very easily see and try to copy what we do. But that is just inevitable in business and if you hide your ideas and designs from people in fear, you are only really inhibiting your own success anyway. I am very passionate about proper designers working in bespoke jewellery, and am working hard to encourage others. For example I am currently working on a design competition which we are holding at UCA (University for Creative Arts) in October. This is the first bespoke jewellery design competition and our brief will take the form of an actress being a ‘customer’ and describing their bespoke brief via a YouTube clip. I’m also collaborating with Doug Richard (ex Dragons’ Den) on the School for Creative Startups, and I’ve recently been working on some entrepreneurship competitions for the Peter Jones Academy to inspire their students too.

And how has the accolade spurred you on in terms of plans for your business and for your own personal growth as a business owner?

This award has given me even more energy than ever! I still have to keep pinching myself to really believe the success and recognition that we have had from within the jewellery industry; this award from everywoman, being such a well-known national retail award, is just incredible. It makes me think that we need to be more confident about our way forward, and that kind of confidence is such a powerful thing in terms of making things happen. We need to continue to be the UK’s leading bespoke jewellery design

company and continue forging the way, and I have loads of new ideas all the time! We are working on some technical improvements at the moment, which is exciting, and we do hope to open more stores soon. I have also been very proud to have been involved in the launch of Fairtrade gold, and have been having some interesting conversations about that and about ethical issues. I want to find some time to work further in that important area as I am starting to see a way that I may be able to improve things. We have also just had our RJC audit, which has been a big deal for us. The RJC has defined a list of standards that we can hold our businesses up against to see if we are doing our best to behave as a responsible company, and this can only be a good thing. Fingers crossed we will pass – we hope to hear within the next two weeks. For the first 12 years of running my business I worked very hard but in quite an introverted way, and this year I raised my head and found that we are doing really well. It feels like suddenly others have noticed what we have done too, so now is the time to see what I can do to raise our profile further. I want to continue to inspire and help young designers and young entrepreneurs too. I am very proud to have been part of a big change in the industry over the last 13 years or so but we have a lot further to go. I want to see if I can somehow get involved in bringing designers into ordinary, tired high street stores. We have such brilliant designers coming out of our UK colleges all the time, so let’s team them up with good retailers and create something more interesting for our customers! I’d love it if somebody asked me to help with a TV show turning around a high street jewellers or something like that – but that is probably just a pipe dream! I’m not quite sure if I will get all that done this year – but I’ll do my best to make a start!

Gold Special

Call of the ocean Firstly, can you tell us a bit about your background – have you always been interested in design? And what led you to choose jewellery making as your career path?

As far back as I can remember I loved drawing and making things. I have been told I always had a pen or pencil in my hand as soon as I could hold one! Throughout school I took as many of the creative and practical subjects as possible, and while sitting my final exams I was told of a job being advertised to work at a local jewellery company. I spent four years there working as a jewellery design technician and gained a great overview of the business, before leaving to study graphic design at the Falmouth College of Arts. But during the second year of the course I came to realise that this was not the subject for me, so I used what was left of my student loan to set up my own jewellery workshop. At first I took on bespoke work for friends and family, teaching myself techniques as I went along, before establishing Joseph Lamsin Jewellery in 2005 with sponsorship from the Prince’s Trust.

How have your life experiences shaped your design style?

Having lived in Cornwall all of my life in and around the fishing village of Newlyn, I grew up with the beach as my playground. The coastal environment and the lifestyle it brings formed my outlook on life, influencing what I perceive as beautiful and how I measure success, among many other things. When I decided to set up my own jewellery brand I wanted to express these feelings through the jewellery, in the hope that other people could connect with the emotion behind it. I researched and experimented with a number of different jewellery-making techniques before settling on cuttlefish casting for my first collection, which would communicate my life experiences through both the appearance and creation of the jewellery.

What are the primary influences and inspirations behind your current collections?

The recently-launched collections Newlyn, Marazion and Sennen are named after coastal places that have influenced

Following a brief introduction to Joseph Lamsin Jewellery at IJL, Louise Hoffman finds out more about the brand’s ethos in conversation with its founder, Matthew Harris

and inspired me throughout my life. Each item from these collections has been shaped and textured by seawater, to reflect how the sea is continually shaping and transforming the Cornish coastline around me. I have been fortunate enough to have never been far from the sea, and I even have a view of it from my workbench! From a very early age I can recall staring out at the sea and being amazed by its everchanging state; how rough it could be one day and how calm it could be the next. This is a view I have never taken for granted, and I find it equally as awe-inspiring today as I did when I was a child.

Can you tell us more about your innovative seawater technique? How long did it take to fully develop?

Newlyn, Marazion and Sennen jewellery collections have been made by pouring molten silver into seawater, shaping and texturing the metal as it solidifies. I had been experimenting with water casting for many years as a way of dispensing excess metal from the cuttlefish casting process, and would select the interesting shapes to make items of jewellery for friends and family. These proved very popular, so I started to explore how casting into different substances would change the appearance of the metal, which was when I tried seawater casting. The seawater resulted in more undulating surfaces and pronounced textures with instant visual appeal, and created a direct link with the coastal environment. I then repeated the process hundreds of times to get the desired shapes for the designs I had in mind, before having rubber moulds made for reproduction.

Gold Special

Did you deliberately set out to create a brand new concept, or was it more of a light bulb moment?

Water casting is an ancient technique that has been around for hundreds of years that I have simply adapted to achieve the desired effect, while keeping it true to my brand values. If it were not for the cuttlefish casting I probably wouldn’t have done any water casting, so you could say I stumbled across it!

You exhibited at the IJL show recently. How did visitors respond to your jewellery designs?

The overall response to my jewellery was excellent and far exceeded my expectations in terms of the amount of orders taken from new and existing customers. Visitors were at first drawn to my stand by the jewellery submersed in tanks of bubbling water, and were fascinated to learn of the direct link with the sea. On closer inspection the organic natural beauty of the products in both sterling silver and 18 carat gold vermeil captured the buyers’ imaginations, and the equally attractive price points were very well received. I have already rebooked my stand for IJL 2012, and am very much looking forward to returning for my third year.

“Each item has been shaped and textured by seawater, to reflect how the sea is continually shaping and transforming the Cornish coastline around me”

Are you working on any new collections or additions to existing ones?

I am always thinking of future collections and additions to existing ones, usually with too many ideas at any one time! I am hoping to exhibit at Spring Fair as part of the Jewellery Show in February, and if so will be showing any new items there. I am also looking to introduce a new men’s jewellery range in the near future, with a very distinctive style created using pebbles and sand from the beach. All future products will be added to the recently revamped josephlamsin.com website as soon as they are available!

Finally, what are your long-term goals for your brand?

I would like Joseph Lamsin Jewellery to be recognised both nationally and internationally as a forward-thinking and exciting jewellery brand. I aim to supply a wide range of retail outlets, from the quirky independents to the well-known department stores, and hope to always emphasise and communicate the brand ethos with the desired audience. The jewellery collections produced will include an extensive range of designs for women and men, covering an array of price points from the affordable to the high-end. These will have grown and developed with the ever-shifting consumer preferences, while staying true to the company’s core values. I hope to always challenge myself in terms of creation and to continue to be excited about current and future collections.

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Gold special

Good as gold Hannah Scott talks to David Lamb, managing director of jewellery at the World Gold Council, about the new world for gold production and consumption, soaring gold prices and the enduring art of the goldsmith

avid Lamb has been managing director of jewellery for the World Gold Council for just over a year. In this time he has witnessed the tail end of the recession and the effect it has had on the world gold market as well as the development of new trends in the production and consumption of gold. He is well placed to observe the importance of jewellery in the wider market, having spent four years as chief strategy officer for De Beers. In his current role he observes the changes and trends of the gold market and how this affects goldsmiths and jewellers alike. David describes the current key trends of the gold sector in the light of the global recession: “I would say we are living in extraordinary times at the moment, and a key part of my job is to underline the importance of ‘world’ in World Gold Council. I want to understand where potential lies globally and ensure we are able to identify the importance of emerging markets. “Our key priorities are the two markets that we believe not just to be the most significant

markets today but also to be the engine of future growth in gold: India and China. The magnitude of those markets is immense – the Indian market consumed around 657 tonnes of gold in 2010; an increase in volume year-onyear of 39.5 per cent, and the Chinese market grew 20.5 per cent in volume last year with a consumption of 452 tonnes.” The emerging markets of India and China provide a huge focus for the gold sector. David explains how Indian gold consumption mirrors the shift in global purchasing power in light of the recession: “We are currently seeing a re-evaluation of where gold sits in the financial architecture, and from a consumer perspective gold is a window onto economic change, as the axis of power shifts towards India and China. Our research suggests that Indian women hold in jewellery form in homes and security lockers around 18,000 tonnes of gold today. By way of comparison, US national gold reserves are around 8,600 tonnes. So there is enormous wealth and purchasing power in the hands of

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“ The cur rent higher prices of gold, along with many other commodities, have meant that consumers are re-evaluating what they spend their money on around the worl d”

Gold special

“ We must keep hold of that valued proposition of precious things, and the skill and the understanding of the high street jeweller must be recognised and celebrated”

everyday Indian women with regard to gold. The way India’s economy is developing means the potential to buy further gold is only going to increase. Gold, as well as being financially attractive in the short term, has a deep-rooted cultural significance in India, so we’re very confident about demand projections there.” David goes on to describe another shift in the gold market: “As well as the move eastwards geographically, we are also seeing a move upwards in financial terms. The current higher prices of gold, along with many other commodities, have meant that consumers are re-evaluating what they spend their money on around the world. In the long term that is actually a fantastic position for jewellery to be in because consumers are gravitating towards items that are more important and create more value in their lives, and that is what jewellery is about – fewer, better things that last for longer and give enduring pleasure. “We need to re-define what preciousness means and I really think that this is at the core of what jewellery is all about: the difference between things that last and things that don’t; the importance of craftsmanship and the value proposition. Gold, in particular, is based on a story of intrinsic value; one that dates back many years.” When asked to elaborate, David tells the beguiling history of the gold ring as an ‘enduring symbol of love’: “The first diamond engagement ring was given in the 15th century, but 2,000 years before that the first gold commitment ring was exchanged. This shows how far back the heritage of gold dates and for us that message is a priority that we would like to see the trade sell through to its consumers, irrespective of price levels.” Indeed, gold as a fundamental symbol of love is a story David and the World Gold Council want emphasised. “In tough times the bridal category is disproportionately

important for jewellers and it’s essential that we can redefine gold as a fundamental component of bridal jewellery,” David explains. “One of our most important goals right now is to extend and enhance the importance of gold in the bridal market, upholding the notion of gold as the ideal setting metal for an engagement ring.” As well as financial pressures, the gold sector is also under pressure to establish a system of ethical gold, which can reassure consumers that it has been mined responsibly. Fairtrade and Fairmined certified gold could well be the future of gold supply, but as David points out, it is still in its fledgling years: “We live in a world where the prominence of everything you buy as a consumer matters. The gold industry is now addressing how to eliminate the issue of conflict gold. Above and beyond that, the Fairtrade promise restores greater wealth and prosperity to artisanal mining. “Of course Fairtrade and Fairmined is a fantastic movement and the work they’re doing is great. However I would like to see more awareness of the fact that Fairtrade’s own figures indicate a maximum short-term production capacity of 10 tonnes. Last year the world consumed 2,107 tonnes of gold jewellery. So this is something that even at its full capacity offers a fairly restricted solution, but we expect to see it develop in the years to come.” As a final thought, David describes his outlook for the gold sector: “Despite tough economic conditions, jewellery has a valuable story to tell. Jewellers sell a product which is so valuable in every sense of the word: emotionally, financially and in terms of craftsmanship. My advice is that in what are clearly going to be troubled economic times in this country and others, we must keep hold of that valued proposition of precious things, and the skill and the understanding of the high street jeweller must be recognised and celebrated.”

Gold special

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gold A jewellery

Focus on

Gold jewellery exudes a warmth which perfectly complements the rich hues of autumn. Jon Chapple takes a look at what’s new to stock for 2011

mid the persisting economic doom and gloom and the associated soaring price of gold, mankind’s historic favourite metal has, in recent months, been playing second fiddle to other metals in the popularity stakes. However, while silver may be fine for the summer, when it comes to complementing and co-ordinating jewellery with the rich, autumnal hues of this time of year, surely nothing can hold a candle to gold. The richness of the colours in Baltic amber have made it an appealing material for use in jewellery manufacture for thousands of years, and Mayanna specialises in bringing the best examples of these colours to the United Kingdom. Mayanna supplies the British market with a vast selection of amber jewellery set in both silver and gold, but – as the company says – “without a doubt, amber set in gold really is something very special.” The Harmony collection, which reflects the history of the Gulf region and its maritime heritage, was one of the ranges introduced by Deema at International Jewellery London. Featuring wooden parts representing old ships; flourishes signifying the seas and oceans that connected the region with the rest of the world; and stones symbolising “the wealth gained from these voyages,” the Harmony range is manufactured using silver 925 with rhodium and yellow gold plating, with amethyst, white topaz, citrine and garnet. Deema says that during the designing stage it takes the state of the world economy into account and offers valuefor-money statement jewellery that’s wearable in different ways; for example, as a complete choker, a choker without a pendant, a pendant as a long chain or as a brooch.

Gold special

New from Curteis Ltd is a collection of nine-carat yellow gold hollow bangles, available in a plain round or oval style and with a choice of two attractive designs. These hollow gold bangles offer affordable nine-carat gold jewellery with a no minimum order service and next-day delivery on many products. A maker of traditional, die-stamped rings manufactured to the highest standard, Dexter has turned 40 years’ experience of quality and precision to the manufacture of classic signet rings. Four classic shapes produced from exclusive dies in an assortment of head sizes are available in an extensive choice of precious metals, made up to order and ready for immediate dispatch. Baird & Co reports that its gold patterned bands (available in every carat and colour) are still proving hugely popular this autumn, with increasing sales showing no sign of slowing. “The newest diamond-set designs from the Bianco range have proven a hit with customers,” says the company, “as well as our established classic and contemporary styles from both the Bianco and Renoir collections; all of which can be seen in our free catalogue available now.” Please call Baird & Co for details and sample sets. Finally, inspired by the richness of the colours of autumn, Tezer has introduced a new collection of gold-plated jewellery, including the necklace pictured (right), which can be worn long or short, with matching earrings available. To view the full Tezer collection – including a range in sterling silver – contact the company’s British sales agent, Sharon Acton. 1) Baird & Co: 0207 474 7444 • 2) Curteis: 0800 195 6771 3) Deema: shadya@deemacollection.com • 4) Dexter: 01580 241 680 5) Mayanna: 01494 524 124 • 6) Tezer: 07774 928 045

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Gold special

Gold never loses its shine Gary Williams, BJA vice chairman and head of the Jewellery Division at the Presman Mastermelt group of companies, ruminates upon the subject of rising gold prices, and the surge in scrap

hile we figuratively spend our lives seeking the pot of gold at the rainbow’s end, the question is, why are we so fascinated with this illustrious and precious metal, and how do we ensure that we don’t get ripped off? Through the ages, and especially during times of economic unrest, gold has been the investment of choice. As the saying goes, nothing is ever as good as gold; a phrase derived from the introduction of paper money, which promised to pay the bearer on demand a sum of gold, to the value of the note. Gold was deemed ‘good’ because it was the genuine article of currency and had intrinsic worth, unlike the monetary note being exchanged. Amazingly, early civilizations recognised that the yellow nuggets (‘tears of the sun’), although at that time of no ‘monetary’ value, were objects of desire and therefore could and would confirm status. Artisans found that this shiny metal was not only malleable, but it did not tarnish or corrode. It could be finely worked to decorate and adorn, or formed to create beautiful objects and religious icons such as the biblical Golden Calf. Golden plates, cups and vessels became the possessions of the rich and powerful and were highly coveted. As personal adornment was the simplest way of conveying wealth and position, so began the jewellery trade.

The first use of gold as money was around 700 BC, when the merchants of Lydia (Turkey) produced standardised gold coins to help improve trading. The idea took off faster than the iPad, and the wealth of Lydia soon grew to legendary status, so much so that even today we speak of the ultra-wealthy as being as ‘rich as Croesus’ (the last king of Lydia). Many of today’s jewellery retailers owe their recent successes – and for some, their very existence – to the unprecedented rising gold price. This has taken ‘we buy gold’ to a whole new level. Largely due to the high profile exposés of a few unscrupulous ‘by post’ traders, TV and radio adverts for ‘cash for gold’ have now disappeared, leaving the trusted high street jeweller better placed to benefit from the public’s desire to crystallise their windfall. Fortunately, there continues to be a stream of old, broken and unwanted items of gold jewellery still being sold for scrap in shops across the UK. Obviously, while times are tough, many people are using the money to pay for necessities, while others are looking to treat themselves – sometimes with new pieces of jewellery! Switched-on retailers generally understand that cash for scrap is in fact a sales opportunity. Reflecting the worldwide return to gold as an investment, in recent weeks the price of gold has in fact been

higher than the price of platinum – traditionally a more expensive and far rarer precious metal. In addition to the numerous trade visitors selling scrap at the counter at Presman’s each day, we frequently receive up to 300 parcels in the post, which have been sent by jewellers and pawnbrokers across the UK. Both in the post and over the counter, it is not unusual to find items which have been wrongly bought by naive staff. Make no mistake – trust no one! Many of these ‘fabricated fakes’ have been specifically manufactured to deceive. The most common articles are usually base metal or plated items with genuine, fully-hallmarked ‘ends’, which have been deliberately put together to satisfy the cursory glance of the unsuspecting retailer. Items with hallmarks actually cast into them are quite common, as well as the masses of fake sovereigns and other gold coins being offered for sale. “Most retailers are careful about buying in scrap but there are far too many who still don’t test the metal they are buying, and mistake a stamped ‘750’ mark as a sign of a full British hallmark. They certainly won’t be happy giving hundreds of pounds for a necklace or bracelet, which then turns out to be gold plated or even base metal. In fact, as the price of gold goes up, so does the amount of fakes we see,” explains Howard Weiner, MD at Presman’s. Today, with the meteoric rise of the gold price and its rollercoaster fluctuations, it is impossible to know whether to buy or sell. But one thing’s for certain – our love affair with gold is not cooling one bit. If you would like more information on buying scrap, email Gary Williams at

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Gold special

Following on from Gary’s discussion of the scrap gold market, we open the floor for others in the industry to share their views and stories “Scrap jewellery is sold either as ‘live’ scrap, based on the weight of the item and the hallmark, or on a ‘melt and assay’ basis, where the scrap is melted and sold based on the after melt weight and the assay taken from the melt. “Live scrap tends to be for smaller quantities, typically 200 to 500 grams gross, and sold for cash. However, at busy times a lot of traders run out of cash, making sales difficult. For melt and assay, which usually yields higher returns for amounts over 500 grams gross, there has to be a certain amount of trust of the processor. Is the after melt weight correct? Has the assay been independently verified? Losing a couple of grams or a decimal place off the assay could be costly to the seller. “Baird & Co has been purchasing and refining jewellery scrap for over 30 years and is now the UK’s largest refiner of gold. Scrap is either purchased ‘live’ at our Hatton Garden office, or purchased after melt and assay at our head office and refinery in east London. We also operate the ‘Baird Service’ in conjunction with the London Assay Office and the Birmingham Assay Office, where scrap can be sent to be melted and assayed by the Assay Office, and Baird purchases the out turn as per the assay report. “2011 has continued to be a busy year, with Baird purchasing over 26 tonnes of gold scrap in the first six months of the year.” Tony Dobra, director of Baird & Co Ltd. Information: 0207 474 1000, sales@goldline.co.uk or www.goldline.co.uk

“Strict codes of practice are the greatest responsibility for companies dealing in this industry. Too many fellow traders are victims of crime and we must work together to highlight and eliminate any outlets where this supply of metal is being delivered. This can be done through the enforcement of traceable sources, whether dealing with the public (requesting legitimate ID) or with traders (making sure they have the right credentials, such as HVD licence, VAT number, trading address etc). MLR regulations/guidelines are published on the HMRC website. “Bowjangles (Midlands) Ltd has gained a large market share through its customer-focused approach, securing an international customer base including organisations like the NHS. Bowjangles buys all precious metals in live and bar form, and the terms and conditions of sale are negotiable with the directors, who are always on hand and oversee every purchase. “We want the customer to trust the Bowjangles name, and believe that when you use us you will see the strength of our name, hence why our market share continues to grow and others dwindle.”

director of

Aaron Sheldon, Bowjangles (Midlands) Ltd.

Information: 0121 556 6868 or www.bowjanglesmidlands.co.uk

“Bullion Bond provides jewellers and jewellery workshops with a fully comprehensive precious metal recovery service. Fully trained and experienced technicians are able to process all kinds of workshop waste, lemel, sweeps, buffing waste and live scrap. Bullion Bond also has a buying desk, where customers can sell their live scrap in private rooms. Secure private parking is also provided. “Situated conveniently between London and Birmingham, Bullion Bond provides a stress-free alternative for selling scrap.” Tony Bond, director of Bullion Bond. Information: 01494 372 051 or tony@bullionbond.co.uk “In recent years, with the phenomenal increase in the price of gold, the scrap gold industry has blossomed and people have cashed in their gold for excellent prices. Both the trade and the public have benefitted from the gold boom. Unfortunately it has also given rise to a lot of rogue traders who have taken advantage of public ignorance and have got away with paying them up to 20 or 30 per cent of the actual value of the gold. “We at the Bullion Store take pride in the fact that we are one of UK’s leading scrap gold buyers and we offer the best rates in the country. We offer 97.5 per cent of spot price to trade based on quantities, and 96 per cent to the general public. We have even been featured on BBC West Midlands in its Scrap Gold Special as part of its awareness campaign against the bogus cash for gold companies. We are well equipped with XRF machines, which are fast and accurate and will give you the best value for your gold.” Rohan Somisetti, Bullion Store.

marketing manager at the

Information: 0121 236 1111 or www.bullionstore.co.uk “The Bullion Room is an international specialist processor and recycler of scrap metal from trade sources. Dealing in approximately £1 billion of precious metals annually, the Bullion Room is firmly one of the world’s largest precious metal dealers, and our clients include independent jewellers, large pawnbroking chains and international institutions. “The Bullion Room strives to ensure that all of our clients, large or small, benefit from our excellent business and payment terms, and experience our high levels of personal service.” Eamon Gaughan, Bullion Room.

managing director of the

Information: 0121 515 5999 or info@thebullionroom.com

How do they do that?

Making a hallmarking punch

Andy Left and Luke Abbey from the Birmingham Assay Office explain the art of making a hallmarking punch

How do they do that?

he practice of hallmarking dates back 700 years in the UK. It is widely understood that the small row of characters stamped onto each precious metal article carries a wealth of information for those who know how to crack the code. But interpreting the hallmark is only possible if the small marks are intelligible, and this depends on a well made punch and a well struck mark, of an appropriate depth. Although laser marking has been an option since 2000, the majority of hallmarks are still struck using a traditional punch. The basic principles of creating a punch with which to strike a good, clear hallmark have not changed over the last seven centuries. A suitable metal ‘blank’ must be fashioned, with a distinct tip, suitable to carry the required impression. This may be just one of the hallmarking symbols or all of them in one combination punch. The exact shape of the blank will depend upon whether the punch is to be used by hand or in a press, and will also be influenced by the type of article it is intended to mark. While most punches are a straight rod or bar, ‘cranked’ punches designed specifically for marking inside rings are also common. The composition of the steel alloy from which the punch is made will vary according to the preferences of the maker and its intended use. However it must be soft enough to accept an engraving or other kind of impression and to be shaped and finished by chisel or file. It must also have the capacity to harden significantly when heated to between 600°C and 800°C, to make it sufficiently tough to strike a clear mark without undue pressure, which could damage the article being marked. Once the appropriate blank has been obtained, the characters comprising the hallmark are applied to its tip using a variety of techniques, which have varied through the ages. The punch is then subjected to intense heat treatment. As soon as the punch reaches the requisite temperature it will be ‘quenched’ by plunging it into either water or oil. The dramatic drop in temperature causes the alloy to harden, creating a durable punch which can be used time and time again without losing its precision. In the early days of hallmarking, punches were made by engraving or chiselling into the blank and using a file to remove the excess

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Interpreting the hallmark is only possible if the small marks are intelligible, and this depends on a well made punch and a well struck mark, of an appropriate depth

How do they do that?

Focus on the expertS

[Registration] plates… chronicle the tens of thousands of famous and unknown jewellers, goldsmiths and silversmiths who have registered at the Office over the past 235 years

Andy Left

Andy heads up the punchroom and also the tool room, which makes the dies and jigs required to support articles while they are being hallmarked. Andy is qualified in mechanical production and CNC engineering, welding, jewellery manufacturing and computer aided design (CAD). He has 25 years’ experience at the Birmingham Assay Office.

Luke Abbey

Luke undertook a modern apprenticeship in engineering following his BTEC in Mechanical Engineering and both engineers have undergone extensive in-house training in relation to the new laser equipment

metal to create the appropriate surround shape. Over the centuries technology has improved, and by the second half of the 20th century punch makers were commonly using a pantograph – utilising a technique based on creating a mould for the punch and then cutting away the unwanted metal to create the hallmark. These machines had the benefit that the moulds could be scaled up or down in size to create different sized punches from the same initial mould. In the 21st century most punches are made with the use of CAD/CAM software to create the impression of the mark, and either a computer numerical control (CNC) or laser machine to transfer the image to the tip of the punch. The Birmingham Assay Office invested in its own punch-making facility in 1996, initially using CNC. The punch engineers start by creating a two dimensional image using CAD/ CAM software, and the operating programme in the CNC translates this into a 3D specification, which also includes the depth of the mark. Once the programme is ready to run, the punch makers have to grind special ‘cutters’ to cut in the mark. The hallmark itself has to be very precise, now sometimes being as small as 0.25 millimetres, and the tip of a cutter is finer than a human hair. Once the cutters are ready the engineer has to carefully set up the machine. Cutting

a punch can take anything from 30 minutes to half a day, and has to be closely supervised as the cutters are very fragile and may break during the process, requiring urgent remedial action. Cutters will only last for one use and then have to be discarded and the whole process started again. The CNC process is still in wide use and creates high-quality punches, but obviously has its downsides due to the fragility of the cutters. As technology has moved on, the Birmingham Assay Office has upgraded its equipment and is now making the most of its punches using a state-of-the-art laser machine. The same preparation and finishing of the punches is still required, but the impression of the mark can be much more reliably applied. As with all specialist equipment the new kit has taken some time to pioneer and develop. Andy Left and Luke Abbey pride themselves on supplying their colleagues in hallmarking with high-quality, sharply-cut punches, in order to deliver a clear intelligible hallmark. They have both undertaken days of specific training and developed new expertise in order to maximise the benefits of the new technology. Both engineers are now extremely confident in the results from the laser machine, which has also speeded the process up and made it more reliable and less labour intensive.

How do they do that?

Andy says: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Having our own punch-making facility is a great advantage to our customers as we can create new, high-quality punches very rapidly. If a punch should become too worn or be damaged we can replace it immediately, preventing any unnecessary delays to hallmarking.â&#x20AC;? Once the punches have been made, a unique reference code is stamped into them. Whatever the punch carries, be it just the initials of the sponsor mark or the full hallmark, the punch will be used to strike one mark onto the appropriate registration plate. Such plates have been kept by the Birmingham Assay Office since it opened in 1773 and they chronicle the tens of thousands of famous and unknown jewellers, goldsmiths and silversmiths who have registered at the Office over the past 235 years. If the authenticity of a mark should ever be questioned it is referenced against the plate to try to establish whether it is genuine or not.

The Birmingham Assay Office was founded in 1773 to provide a hallmarking facility to the rapidly expanding local silver trade. Over 235 years it has become established as the largest UK assay office. During the past decade the Assay Office has expanded its services further, far beyond its statutory assaying and hallmarking duties, and offers independent expert opinion on every aspect of the precious metal, jewellery and gemstone trade. For more information visit

Industry

Bright Young Gems Syreeta Tranfield, event co-director of IJL, discovers how working with new designers and stocking their jewellery can benefit both parties

he Bright Young Gems have been unveiled – five of the best new designers in the industry. This IJL initiative gives retailers an insight into new talent, with the designers tipped for success by a panel of leading editors from the Daily Telegraph, the Financial Times, Glamour magazine and Wallpaper magazine. Many of the Bright Young Gems designers go on to achieve marked success in the industry, such as the now established Tomasz Donocik (Bright Young Gem in 2006) and Daisy Knights (Bright Young Gem in 2009).

the collection individual and the stands complement the jewellery really well.” Also, it’s worth remembering that just because a designer is new to the industry, it doesn’t mean they can’t be handson and provide ideas: “I certainly prefer being involved in the presentation, always keeping in mind that the retailers know their spaces like no one else, and ideally we come up with something that works for everyone. I prefer simple and elegant ways to display my jewellery, showing attention to the details,” notes Fernando Jorge.

This year’s line up

The Bright Young Gems’ jewellery

Fernando Jorge, Lauren Colover, Imogen Belfield, Hattie Rickards and Euan McWhirter are the 2011 Bright Young Gems. As new designers, they have original ideas, and they really benefitted from a commercial platform: “Running a start-up jewellery business is very challenging, and being selected was a catalyst in this process. In a matter of days I got to showcase my work to important retailers, journalists and suppliers with whom I hope to establish effective business relationships,” Fernando Jorge stated.

Investing in new designers

Initiatives such as Bright Young Gems are definitely helpful for new designers. However, why is it a benefit to retailers to invest in these designers? It’s a useful way of keeping stock fresh and customers interested, and Euan McWhirter believes UK retailers are in a good position to try new things: “It’s important to value new British designers; there’s such a wealth of talent and innovation here and we need to support that. British consumers are a brave bunch and often take risks.” New British designers, by their very nature, represent the progression of jewellery design. As such they provide an effective means for retailers to distinguish themselves from any competition that does not choose to stock and promote new brands trying to break into the industry. “Such designers should appeal to retailers, as small scale operations tend to mean the pieces of jewellery are unique, and often the underlying themes of the collection are not yet heavily present within the market, which makes stocking new designers’ work the perfect way to keeping shops looking fresh and on-trend for customers,” explains Lauren Colover.

Showcasing new designers in-store

Many designers and brands, new and established, have fixed ideas about how their work could be showcased in-store to maximise its potential. Entering a business relationship with a new designer is the ideal time for retailers to talk about how the designer envisages his or her work being sold. Imogen Belfield explains: “With some of my stockists, such as Harrods, I am involved with which stands I use to display my collections. I think this is really important, as it makes

New designers provide you with innovative jewellery – something original. For example, Hattie Rickard’s 18 carat Fairtrade gold jewellery with rotating bands and spinning barrels of precious stones are so original. It’s not just about the actual jewellery, it’s also about trends, as new designers are often on-trend, and even trendsetting, in their approach. A key trend for 2012 is geometry and broken surfaces, and angular shapes with blocked-out colour achieved through vibrant gemstones, and Hattie’s jewellery will reflect this trend in her current and new collection called GEO, launching this November. The other Bright Young Gems are also hitting the trend nail on the head in their own ways – take Fernando Jorge, who notes the increasing interest towards jewellery with traditional values and precious materials. Despite the price of gold and diamonds being very high, and the difficult economic climate, people are still looking for great jewellery design that endures the seasonal shifts. Fernando therefore strives to do this with his work.

The best time to invest in new designers

There’s no time like the present! A whole host of new designers are on the scene alongside the Bright Young Gems, ready to discuss optimum timings and their upcoming plans. PureJewels’ Platinum Heritage collection, organised by PureJewels, provides a good opportunity for new, talented designers. The company calls for entries from British designers and sends a design brief to a selected designer, requesting design ideas and themes. A single couture piece is then produced in collaboration, inspired by the brand’s cultural journey – the journey from India to England via Africa. These pieces are then unveiled amid great fanfare. The project is developing into longer term collaborations. “We are passionate about supporting and investing in British design talent. As a British brand with a rich cultural heritage and journey we feel that the UK’s strength globally is in its creativity and we have harnessed this very successfully in the collaborations that we have,” brand manager Jayant Raniga told me. This shows that there are also original ways for retailers and brands to work with new designers, to mutual benefit.

Advertisement feature

Attention to detail Established in the historic city of York in 1970, RM Weare & Company Ltd has grown to become one of Britain’s most prominent and respected suppliers of high quality diamonds and gemstones

he company was founded by Richard Weare, whose interest in gemstones began during time spent in Africa, where he was based for part of his 20-year career as a British Army officer. As the business flourished, Richard became a well-known figure in the jewellery trade, respected for his integrity, dedication to customers, old school approach to business, and military ‘can do’ attitude – along with a dash of charm and eccentricity! By the time Richard passed away in 2004 his business had expanded to employ 11 longserving staff members, whom he viewed very much as family, prompting him to take the uncommon step of leaving the business to his employees. This ensured every member of staff had a stake in the business, and consequently a collective and individual incentive to work hard for the business and its customers. RM Weare supplies diamonds and the whole spectrum of commercially-used gemstones in a range of grades where possible, from the cheap and cheerful to the finest available. Anything the company doesn’t have, it will try to source on customer request. Diamond stock includes all the common shapes with certificated stones,

as well as old cuts, eight-cuts, rose cuts, and fancy colours at competitive prices. Gemstone cutting, testing and valuation services are available too. RM Weare buyers source their diamonds and gemstones in the major cutting and trading centres of the world and each stone stocked – whether it be a diamond or a coloured gemstone – has been individually selected with great attention given to quality of polish, clarity, colour and proportions. The team is made up of qualified gemmologists; Antwerp-trained and registered diamond graders; bench-trained jewellers; a qualified valuer; and a graduate geologist. Above all the staff members are friendly and approachable and nothing is too much trouble! Same day turnaround is standard on phone orders and for jewellery posted for stone matching and replacement. There’s no minimum order, and the company supplies everything from one-off stones for students to volume orders for some of the country’s biggest names in jewellery manufacture. The company prides itself on a ‘can do’ approach to enquiries and will always endeavour to track down anything unusual or difficult to find. Indeed, attention to customer service is the quality that has firmly established RM Weare as one of the most trusted and respected suppliers to the jewellery trade. RM Weare & Co Ltd, PO Box 9, York YO30 4QW Tel 01904 693933 • Fax 01904 693303 Email: gemstones@rmweare.com Web: www.rmweare.com

Taking stock

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Leading gemstone supplier Marcia Lanyon says it’s ready to “help you make a real statement with your next collection,” as its new stock has just arrived. There is a vast range of beads, pearls and stones available to choose from, all buzzing with bright, strong colours for the new season, from delicate carved flowers and hearts for spring to chunky beads in striking aquamarine, magnesite or coral. Call or visit the company’s friendly west London office for more details. Information: 0207 602 2446 or sales@marcialanyon.com

Takin Taking

stock

Bulatti says this collar set with a Swarovski crystal and matching adjustable ring is completely on-trend with this season’s appetite for statement jewellery. The collar and ring are part of the new winter collection, which features over 200 designs from the Dutch designer. Every piece in Bulatti’s range is designed and manufactured in-house in its factory in the Netherlands, which ensures the jewellery is unique and highly collectable. Every design is available in bronze or old silver and is delivered with luxury packaging, guarantee certificates and Swarovski labels. For more information, please contact Lorraine Thomas. Information: 01245 360 949, lorraine@bulatti.co.uk or www.bulatti.co.uk

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Bold, bright colours are very much of the moment, and Domino says its recently-launched Sassolini collection (‘little stones’ in Italian) is right on trend. Using warm, 18-carat yellow gold and a mixture of cabochon and cushion-cut stones in a range of sizes, the Sassolini range is jewellery that is “as fashionable as it is fun.” Also available are matching pendants and rings in a rainbow of shades. The range, which is available from stock, is complemented by an attractive, free, point-of-sale sign. Information: 0121 236 4772 or info@dominojewellery.com

Taking stock

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Following the successful launch of the Ruby B children’s range in July this year, Kali Ma has introduced a number of new lines for Christmas. “The enamel sets seem to have been the most popular, with some lines selling out much quicker than we could restock them!” says Emma Perkins, Kali Ma managing director. “The bright colours are what retailers are looking to stock for children, so we have expanded in that direction.” The new collection has enamel daisies, dragonflies, butterflies and cupcakes in pendant, stud earring and adjustable-size ring sets, and there are also affordable cord and silver bracelets featuring various motifs in a range of colours. Information: 01803 872 555 or www.kalimadesigns.com

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Peter Andre is the latest celebrity to be spotted wearing a Lucet Mundi stardust bracelet. The singer co-ordinated the bracelet with two power bead lava bracelets for an appearance at Ghost the Musical. With new power bead colours of vibrant orange, deep purple and sassy black just added to the collection, a Lucet Mundi bracelet makes a great Christmas gift for him or for her. Wear them alone or stack them together for that extra bit of Christmas sparkle and shine. Information: 0844 736 5707 or www.lucetmundi.com

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Building on the success of its popular Crystal Pearl range, So Jewellery has announced the launch of the Orb Collection. Available in three colours – ivory white, smoky black and Tahitian green – the simple, elegant and contemporary silver earrings and pendants are available to order immediately. “The Orb Collection is an exciting new addition to our popular pearl collections,” says Jon Tompkins, product development director. “The classic simplicity of each pearl combines with the contemporary silver sphere to strike a perfect balance between modern-day elegance and timeless appeal: the core design principles that run throughout our collections.” Information: 0208 892 7000 or www.sojewellery.co.uk

Midhaven Ltd has added over 300 new lines to its website, including a very competitive plain silver range with immediate delivery. “Like it or loathe it, this little creature is selling very well,” the company says of its Meerkat design (pictured). See the new range on the website or call Alison or Allison using the number below. Information: 01299 851 513, info@midhavensilver.com or www.midhavensilver.com

Cross

Designed to reflect the latest autumn/winter trends, Cross’s Year of the Dragon collection is a range of special edition pens that the company says exudes “innovation, quality and style.” Decorated with a 23-carat gold dragon design, the collection represents good fortune and celebrates the 2012 Year of the Dragon. The Year of the Dragon range is available in ball point, rolling ball and fountain pen with solid 18-carat gold nib, and comes with a lifetime mechanical guarantee. Each pen is presented in a luxurious gift box with removable display cradle. Information: 01582 422 793 or www.cross-pens.eu RRP: £200 to £300

Bvlgari

The Bvlgari Silver and Precious Gifts collection features “a diverse and complete range of items and gift ideas,” including cufflinks, key holders, money clips, tie bars, tuxedo studs and writing instruments, in gold and rhodium-plated sterling silver, combined with celluloid, cotton resin, enamel inserts, and diamond and semi-precious stone details. Pictured is the Bvlgari Bvlgari money clip in sterling silver with black onyx. Information: 0207 314 9314, troy.birt@bulgari.com or www.bulgari.com RRP: £250

Luxury Montblanc

giftware

Monblanc was founded in 1906 by an engineer from Berlin, a stationery trader from Hamburg and a banker from the same city with a view to manufacturing quality fountain pens. The company introduced its first pen, the Rouge et Noir, in 1909, and has since diversified into timepieces, jewellery and leather. The latest offerings from its jewellery line are these round cufflinks in red gold with floating Montblanc diamonds. Information: 0207 629 5883 or www.montblanc.com RRP: £2,800

Business

Back to basics

While jewellery retailers may have invested thousands of pounds in building their ecommerce sites and driving people to them, the difference between a sale and a missed opportunity can be down to something as simple as a spelling mistake. Mathias Duda of FACT-Finder.com explains how improving search and navigation on your site can be key to converting your customers

arketing today is all about getting closer to your customers, understanding what they want and being able to make your brand seem as relevant to them and their lifestyles as you can. Setting up your own online store can be the perfect vehicle for you to do this, by allowing you to find out more about your audience and to present your products in the most appropriate way for your customer. However, while ecommerce may be exploding, so is the competition for customers – particularly within the jewellery sector, where a lot of people will be looking to buy online to save money on what is often a high-priced product. With the growing number of online shops combined with the ease with which people can compare between stores online and switch their purchases, consumers can be fickle and unforgiving when it comes to choosing their online stores. If your site takes too long to load or if your products are difficult to locate then the chances are you’ll not only lose a sale, but also a customer, no matter how good your designs are. Furthermore, with the average basket value being quite high, it is important that online shops offer the best possible usability and customer experience. Often customers buying from these stores are much more demanding, so making sure you provide your visitors with the best possible brand experience and the most direct route to what they want is crucial. While most retailers now understand the importance of search engine optimisation (SEO) to drive people to their site, they are only just starting to understand the impact that

search and navigation within the site can have on conversion rates and, ultimately, sales. Our research among the 1,000-plus European retailers we work with at FACT-Finder shows that etailers are losing at least 20 per cent in this area due to failed searches; specifically through typos and spelling variations. Of the search queries we handle, 30 to 40 per cent are spelled differently to the product listings. In one week, for example, we found over 80 different misspellings of the word Birkenstock – for a retailer selling shoes, this is powerful information. For jewellery retailers, even the word ‘jewellery’ itself can cause customers problems. While some retailers may have a manual system in place to capture the majority of common spelling errors, whereby they have to update some form of dictionary to ensure the relevant results are delivered, this can be very labour intensive. Fortunately, search utilities are now becoming available that use a type of ‘fuzzy logic’ to capture these types of spelling errors. These add ‘longtail’ functionality, whereby provided a misspelling is similar enough to the entries in the database the search will still return the correct product. By looking at the longtail list of search queries around ‘jewellery’ products across our clients we measured 65 different search terms and search variations in one week. It is also now possible to use ‘thesaurus’ style entries, which for example would translate terms such as ‘ice’ or ‘bling’ to ‘diamonds’ on your website, effectively adapting to common language. Search relevance is another key area that can cause problems for site visitors. All products, or related products,

Business

If your site takes too long to load or if your products are difficult to locate then the chances are you’ll not only lose a sale, but also a customer must turn up within the first two pages of any search result; ideally the first page. Just 22 per cent of people performing site searches look beyond page one of any search result. Furthermore, the criteria for presenting these results – such as by popularity, by age of product or by frequency of purchase – can not only help deliver relevant results, but also take the consumer in a certain direction. Again any on-site search functions should also be able to learn from consumer searching behaviour and reflect this in real time as products become more popular. However, the reality is that any search can only be as good as the structure of the data provided by the retailer or service provider. Structured product information is needed to provide dynamic filters (faceted navigation) within your site’s search and navigation to allow users to search on key attributes such as ‘material’, ‘designer’, ‘categories’, ‘ring size’ and ‘price’. Though there can also be other less obvious filters such as ‘carat’ and even ‘country of manufacture’, which jewellery retailers need to include to help lead customers to just the right products. Again, according to our own research, these types of filters are accessed by around 50 per cent of searchers, and predominantly by people going through the navigation rather than the search box. And this is a crucial point to remember: not everyone uses search, so having easy-tofollow navigation is equally important. A lack of coherent navigation was rated as one of the main barriers to purchase in a recent survey undertaken by FACT-Finder. Indeed, many leading online retailers now use dynamic, attribute-driven navigation, which allows filtering on multiple options rather than just going top-down.

And these should generate results ranked in the same way as a search function, taking into account stock, margin, revenue and, most importantly, which items customers do buy and which they don’t. For anyone looking for good examples of best practice with regard to search and navigation in the jewellery market, www.glamira.co.uk and the German site www.christ.de are good places to start, both using excellent faceted navigation to help consumers find what they want as quickly as possible. It is a harsh reality in today’s online market that an unforgiving internal search engine and unsympathetic navigation will mean that products may become difficult to find, which will result in lost sales – and lost customers. Fortunately, there are systems on the market that take these requirements into account, producing more reliable product location, and retailers need to ensure they are investing in this area if they want to succeed. The lesson is really very simple: if customers can’t see it, they can’t buy it.

Mathias Duda is head of UK operations at

Selling

Do you call your customers? Leonard Zell highlights the benefits of calling customers in advance of special occasions such as Christmas

If your salespeople d o n’t call their customers a nd another j e weller does, t h en that will p ro b ably be the l a st time you w i ll see those customers

hroughout my 30 years of conducting sales training, I have asked thousands of salespeople whether they call their customers, and these are some of the answers I get: • It’s too pushy • I don’t like to get rejected • How do I know they will come in? • I don’t like salespeople calling me, why should I call my customers? • I call some of my customers – the ones I am more comfortable calling • What if he does come in and I don’t remember his name? I may have left out a few, but you get the idea. They find every excuse in the book not to call their customers. Those salespeople expect their customers to come into their store as if they are obligated to do so. Then they complain that traffic is slow and blame it on the economy. Does any of this make sense? Of course not, and this is why: • It is before the Christmas season when as much as one third of your business is conducted. Most of your male customers wait until the last week and sometimes the last day because they have no idea what to get their wives. If you don’t have your salespeople call their customers, then why will they think to come in? • If your salespeople don’t call their customers and another jeweller does, then that will probably be the last time you will see those customers. That should be enough reasoning for you to read further, because calling your customers is the most powerful of all sales techniques. No other technique approaches it for increasing sales. Those salespeople who I have trained how to create a customer list and call their customers achieve more than double the sales of those who do not. This is how to get started:

• Create a meaningful list of customers, including their mobile numbers and the jewellery they have purchased. • Stand up when calling because you will get better voice projection than if you are sitting down. • Smile before you dial and be sure to keep smiling during the entire conversation – if you don’t, you will sound defensive, uncertain and, even worse, apologetic. • Do not ask how they are doing today. It is meaningless and they wonder why you are asking them anyway. Be honest and tell him why you are calling. If you sold them correctly, they will expect your call as explained in the next paragraph. To accomplish all of this it is necessary that you have made a friend of your customer when you sold him. You should have personalised the sale by introducing yourself and remember his name, using it selectively throughout the sale. You will not have much success if you sold to him anonymously, because he will wonder who you are when you call. By making a friend of him you will gain his trust and he will be very receptive when you tell him you are sure to have something exciting to show him before his next occasion, or if it is now, before Christmas. You can also say you will call him a few weeks before so he doesn’t have to wait until the last minute. Then remind him that every piece of jewellery he has given his wife has a memory and so will this one. Now you have made a real friend. You have won his trust and he knows that the earlier he selects a gift for his wife, the more it means to her. When he comes into your store, you will remember his name because you used it during the sale and he will be very impressed. He is already 90 per cent sold because by remembering his name when he came in, you greeted him like a friend instead of a customer – a customer you will have forever.

You will find further details on the techniques in this article in Leonard’s 180-page sales manual of proven jewellery selling techniques. And for the perfect complement, order – a full day’s sales training seminars recorded live on three CDs. You may order them both from his website,

Events and auctions

Events

29 – 31 October Jewelers International Showcase Caesars Palace Las Vegas, Nevada, USA

18 – 20 November Desire Jewellery and Silversmithing Fair Guildhall Winchester Winchester

9 – 11 December Mumbai Jewellery and Gem Fair Bombay Exhibition Centre Bombay India

14 – 16 January 2012 Jewelers International Showcase Miami Beach Convention Center Miami, Florida, USA

7 November Gold and Silver Investment Summit Royal Garden Hotel, London

22 – 26 November Jewellery Arabia Bahrain International Exhibition and Convention Centre Manama, Bahrain

10 – 11 December Luxury Asia Resorts World Sentosa Singapore

15 – 17 January 2012 Top Drawer – Spring/Summer Earls Court London

2 – 5 December China International Gold, Jewellery and Gem Fair Shanghai World Expo Theme Pavilion, Shanghai, China

6 – 9 January 2012 Malaysia International Jewellery Fair – Spring Edition Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre Kuala Lumpur Malaysia

16 – 20 January 2012 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie Genève Palexpo Geneva Switzerland

3 – 11 December VICENZANTIQUARIA Fiera di Vicenza Vicenza, Italy

11 – 14 January 2012 International Jewellery Tokyo Tokyo Big Sight Tokyo, Japan

17 – 19 January 2012 EUROGUSS Exhibition Centre Nuremberg Nuremberg, Germany

www.jisshow.com

www.goldsilversummit.co.uk

10 – 13 November Dubai International Jewellery Week Dubai International Convention and Exhibition Centre Dubai, United Arab Emirates www.jewelleryshow.com

16 – 19 November Jeweller Expo KyivExpoPlaza Kiev, Ukraine www.jewellerexpo.kiev.ua

www.desirefair.com

www.jewelleryarabia.com

www.jewellerynetasia.com/en/fairs.html

www.vicenzafiera.it

www.jewelleryfair.in

www.myluxuryexpo.com

www.elite.com.my

www.ijt.jp

Auction dates

27 October Woolley & Wallis Jewellery Salisbury

www.woolleyandwallis.co.uk

28 October Wellers Auctioneers Pawnbroker and secondhand jewellery Chertsey, Surrey www.wellersauctions.com

4 November Thomson Roddick & Medcalf Antique jewellery and silver Carlisle www.thomsonroddick.com

5 November Bonhams Jewellery Knightsbridge, London www.bonhams.com

2 November McTear’s Auctioneers Fine jewellery, watches and coins Glasgow

5 November Kent Auction Galleries Ltd Victorian and later effects, including jewellery, silver and coins Folkestone, Kent

3 November Bonhams Jewellery Knightsbridge, London

8 November Bonhams Jewellery Oxford

4 November Bonhams Jewellery Oxford

11 November Jacobs & Hunt Silver and jewellery Petersfield, Hampshire

www.mctears.co.uk

www.bonhams.com

www.kentauctiongalleriesltd.co.uk

www.bonhams.com

www.jacobsandhunt.com

11 November Wellers Auctioneers Jewellery, watches, silver and oriental Chertsey, Surrey www.wellersauctions.com

16 November Christie’s Jewels and watches South Kensington, London www.christies.com

19 November Wellers Auctioneers Watches and contemporary and antique jewellery Guildford, Surrey www.wellersauctions.com

22 November A F Brock & Company Limited Jewellery, watches and silverware Hazel Grove, Stockport Cheshire www.afbrock.co.uk

www.jisshow.com

www.topdrawer.co.uk

www.sihh.org

www.euroguss.de

26 November Kent Auction Galleries Ltd Victorian and later effects, including jewellery, silver and coins Folkestone Kent www.kentauctiongalleriesltd.co.uk

29 November Capes Dunn Antique jewellery, silver, watches, wares and coins Manchester www.capesdunn.com

29 November Christie’s Important jewels King Street, London www.christies.com

30 November Bonhams Jewellery Knightsbridge, London www.bonhams.com

24 November Thomson Roddick & Medcalf Antique jewellery and silver Edinburgh

30 November Lyon & Turnbull Fine jewellery and silver Edinburgh

25 November Wellers Auctioneers Pawnbroker and secondhand jewellery Chertsey, Surrey

2 December Thomson Roddick & Medcalf Antique jewellery and silver Carlisle

www.thomsonroddick.com

www.wellersauctions.com

26 November P F Windibank Antique jewellery Dorking, Surrey www.windibank.co.uk

Image: Eclat de Mode

www.lyonandturnbull.com

www.thomsonroddick.com

6 December Bearnes Hampton & Littlewood Antiques and collectables, including silver and jewellery Honiton, Devon www.bhandl.co.uk

18 – 20 January 2012 London Asia Expo Olympia, London www.asiaexpolondon.com

20 – 23 January 2012 Eclat de Mode Pavillon Porte de Versailles Paris, France www.bijorhca.com

22 – 24 January 2012 Scotland’s Trade Fair Spring The SECC, Glasgow www.scotlandstradefairs.co.uk

29 – 31 January 2012 Printor Eurexpo, Lyons, France www.printor.fr

7 December Bonhams Jewellery Edinburgh

www.bonhams.com

8 December Bonhams Fine jewellery New Bond Street, London www.bonhams.com

9 December Wellers Auctioneers Jewellery, watches, silver and plate Chertsey, Surrey www.wellersauctions.com

10 December Kent Auction Galleries Ltd Victorian and later effects, including jewellery, silver and coins Folkestone, Kent www.kentauctiongalleriesltd.co.uk

13 December Campbells Jewellery, silver, clocks and watches Worthing, West Sussex www.campbellsauctions.co.uk

13 December Dreweatts 1759 Jewellery, silver, watches and coins Bristol www.dnfa.com

14 December Bonhams Jewellery Knightsbridge, London www.bonhams.com

Jewellery November 2011

www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk

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Industry Data

Prices • Figures • Outlook Retail sales volume: August 2011 August 2011 saw flat growth with a mixed picture across retail sectors. Compared to August 2010, there was no growth in the volume of sales, although the value increased by 4.7 per cent. Month-on-month, the volume of retail sales decreased by 0.2 per cent and saw no change in value. Year-on-year, the greatest upward pressure came from non-store retailing, which increased by 13.7 per cent. Downward pressure came from predominantly nonfood stores, which decreased by 1.2 per cent driven by decreases in the household goods and other stores sectors. Approximately £25.4 billion was spent on retail goods in August 2011, up from £24.3 billion in August 2010.

Source: ONS

Metal prices

Aug 11

Sep 11

Oct 11

Sterling silver (£/Kg)

722.02

770.05

596.71 Minus 23%

Gold (£/g)

33.16

37.09

34.17

Minus 8%

Palladium (£/g)

15.29

15.04

12.28

Minus 18%

Platinum (£/g)

34.60

36.93

31.05

Minus 16%

Rhodium (£/g)

37.94

37.86

33.78

Minus 11%

Iridium (£/g)

20.76

21.50

22.61

Plus 5%

Ruthenium (£/g)

3.50

3.43

3.23

Minus 6%

Scrap metal prices

Aug 11

Sep 11

Oct 11

Change

Sterling silver scrap (£/kg)

677.92

723.02

560.26 Minus 23%

9ct Gold scrap (£/g)

12.00

13.42

12.36

Minus 8%

14ct Gold scrap (£/g)

18.72

20.94

19.29

Minus 8%

18ct Gold scrap (£/g)

24.00

26.84

24.73

Minus 8%

22ct Gold scrap (£/g)

29.31

32.79

30.20

Minus 8%

Platinum (95%) scrap (£/g)

27.94

29.82

25.07

Minus 16%

Change

Data supplied courtesy of Cookson Precious Metals. www.cooksongold.com All prices shown on this page enjoy indicative status only. Jewellery Focus and Cookson Precious Metals accepts no responsibility for their accuracy or for any use to which they may be put

Diamond prices

Aug

Oct

2010

Dec

Feb

Apr

Seasonally adjusted figures

2011

Jun

Aug

Weight

G/VVS

G/SI

J/VVS

J/SI

J/I1

0.05 Carat

1,531

991

1,243

901

793

0.10 Carat

1,499

1,104

1,668

988

741

0.25 Carat

2,286

1,544

2,336

1,313

896

0.50 Carat

7,837

3,583

4,852

3,135

2,687

0.75 Carat

9,441

5,765

6,126

4,324

3,459

1.00 Carat

16,678

8,895

11,206

7,227

4,726

The table above has been prepared by SafeGuard and is an average of the retail selling prices of round brilliant cut diamonds per carat including an average retail markup and VAT. There is no allowance for the mount but the prices have been taken from mounted goods prices. The table is also compared with International diamond prices for additional accuracy. Compiled at 3rd October 2011 /Dollar Exchange Rate 1.5541

Industry Data

Hallmark figures - Sept 2011

Hallmark figures - Q3 2011

Sep 10

Sep 11

Variance

1,220 1,009 845,314 230 847,773

949 114 503,559 2 504,624

-271 -895 -341,755 -228 -343,149

-22.2 -88.7 -40.4 -99.1 -40.5

35 1 28,338 92,010 27,638 361,264 509,286

61 1 25,792 77,314 6,557 299,543 409,268

26 0 -2,546 -14,696 -21,081 -61,721 -100,018

74.3 0.0 -9.0 -16.0 -76.3 -17.1 -19.6

0 25,493 6 1 25,500

7 21,698 28 0 21,733

7 -3,795 22 -1 -3,767

100.0 -14.9 366.7 -100.0 -14.8

5 5,895 10 5,910

0 7,334 502 7,836

-5 1,439 492 1,926

-100.0 24.4 4,920.0 32.6

1,388,469

943,461

-445,008

-32.1

Sep 11

Variance

2,674 2,850 2,193,212 317 2,199,053

4,329 821 1,505,389 34 1,510,573

1,655 -2,029 -687,823 -283 -688,480

61.9 -71.2 -31.4 -89.3 -31.3

89 17 85,734 270,251 68,735 924,483 1,349,309

180 2 78,532 232,466 23,406 806,927 1,141,513

91 -15 -7,202 -37,785 -45,329 -117,556 -207,796

102.2 -88.2 -8.4 -14.0 -65.9 -12.7 -15.4

13 69,336 19 13 69,381

22 61,439 45 3 61,509

9 -7,897 26 -10 -7,872

69.2 -11.4 136.8 -76.9 -11.3

14 22,008 13 22,035

0 23,240 1,931 25,171

-14 1,232 1,918 3,136

-100.0 5.6 14753.8 14.2

3,639,778

2,738,766

-901,012

-24.8

Silver

Silver 999 958 925 800

999 958 925 800 Gold

Gold 999 990 916 750 585 375

999 990 916 750 585 375 Platinum

Platinum 999 950 900 850 Palladium 999 950 500

Total

Sep 10

999 950 900 850 Palladium 999 950 500

Total

With the highest precious metal prices ever recorded, it continues to be unsurprising that the number of articles of jewellery being sold is still falling. Overall the hallmarking numbers were down by 32.1 per cent in the month of September, and down 24.8 per cent for the quarter. Silver has been hit particularly hard because of the steep rise in price seen since the beginning of this year. One bright spot is the continuing growth of palladium jewellery, but this might be at the expense of some platinum sales. Source: Birmingham Assay Office

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O & C.,

CASTING

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ROEDER HOUSE, VALE ROAD LONDON N4 1QA EMAIL: info@justbros.co.uk WEB: www.justbros.co.uk Tel: 020 8880 2505 - Fax: 020 8802 0062

ONE OF THE WORLD’S LEADING PACKAGING STOCKISTS PRESENTATION CASES BOXES POUCHES WINDOW DISPLAY BESPOKE PACKAGING SUNDRIES TICKETS ARCHCROWN TAGS CARRIER BAGS LIGHTWEIGHT STOCK TRAYS CAD/CAM

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GEMSTONES

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JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS

RM Weare

JEWELLERY POLISHERS

& Company Ltd.

Britain’s Premier Gemstone Source

P.O.Box 9, York, YO30 4QW, ENGLAND Tel: 01904 693933 - Fax: 01904 693303 Web: www.rmweare.com E-Mail: gemstones@rmweare.com

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Repair Services Is your Rolex watch bracelet stretched and worn?

rolex specialist

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We now specialise in the repair and refurbishment of Gold Rolex Watch Bracelets

Call now for a FREE Quotation

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Full shop refurbishment service Unique hardwood points of sale Fabulous lighting Bespoke display cabinets Watts Design, Barnstaple, Devon EX31 4EN Tel: 0844 5611932 or 01598 710215 Email: info@wattsdesign.co.uk www.wattsdesign.co.uk SIGNET RINGS

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Your Views

Voice

onthe

highstreet

Mark Lloyd of Mobeus, Hartlepool How did you first get into the trade?

I found a job listing for a goldsmith’s apprentice at the Jobcentre while I was at sixth form doing A level CDT and art, and – even though I had never heard of a goldsmith – it looked interesting, so I went for the interview and was offered the job. That began a five-year, one-on-one apprenticeship.

Could you tell us a bit about the services Mobeus offers?

Mobeus specialises in commission work, particularly wedding rings and engagement rings, jewellery restoration and remodelling and all aspects of everyday repairs. However, over the years we have also made all kinds of interesting pieces, including a full-size replica of a rose to fit on a vase made in silver, and an automated silver water lily. The latter was produced in collaboration with a local school and is now on permanent display in the Bowes Museum. With both of these items we also made films showing the process involved, which can be viewed on our website.

You started out as a repair workshop but diversified into retail – why did you choose to go down this route?

A combination of reasons – as a workshop, one does all kinds of delicate work on sentimental items of jewellery, and most retailers’ only concern is getting their goods back within three days for as little money as they can get the job done for. A lot of the time when I did the rounds collecting work, I was expected to be a consultant for free; giving advice to staff on what repair packets should say and trying to educate them so they understood what types of jobs they were handling. I could see that the public generally would respond well to a goldsmith with his own shop, wherein they would be confident someone who knew what they were talking about was doing the job and nothing was sent away. My first shop started out as a repair centre called the Gold Workshop in tiny rented premises. Over four years, I slowly built up a few cabinets selling jewellery until I bought much larger premises and changed the name to Mobeus.

Who works alongside you?

Dave has been with me 13 years and I have trained him as a goldsmith – he now runs my workshop. Then there’s Ann, who has been with me 10 years and is the shop manager; Nick, who operates the 3D software for the engraving machine; and Ian, who runs our database.

What’s selling well at the moment? Are you noticing any clear buying trends?

We sell wedding rings and engagement rings, and that business is growing due to our reputation and exhibiting at wedding fairs. General gold sales are very slow unless it is from the pre-loved cabinet, which is now our top-selling cabinet; especially for refurbished rings. Silver has, over the last few years, become a good seller, partly due to better designs and partly because of the surge in popularity of white gold, which has now become too expensive.

What do you enjoy most about your job?

The single most enjoyable thing for me is completing a job, whether it’s a commission or a simple repair, and seeing the joy in someone’s eyes when I have made exactly what they wanted or repaired a sentimental piece of jewellery. Sometimes even just cleaning a piece of jewellery gets genuine praise and I think that is hard to beat for job satisfaction.

What are the biggest challenges shops like yours face on a day-to-day basis?

The workshop within the retail shop is good and bad – it is great to be able to be at the bench and let customers see you working, but when one has a job that requires focus and attention it can be difficult and often results in after-hours work to keep to deadlines.

What are your plans for the future?

Shaped wedding rings have become our main business, as we have developed a technique that allows customers to have a silver sample to try first, which we can then have cast in platinum, palladium or gold. We now have customers and other jewellers sending us engagement rings due to recommendations. I also intend to build up my portfolio of videos on YouTube. Our videos have just passed 250,000 views, proving that people are interested in seeing what happens in a goldsmith’s workshop, and have already resulted in work from other jewellers and customers from around the country.