Jewellery Focus July 2012

June2012 www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk £5.95 July 2012 www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk £5.95 ISSN ISSN2046-7265 2046-7265

FOCUS

Power and allure: A timeline of gold jewellery at Goldsmiths’ Hall Colourful and quirky collections to catch the eyes of young jewellery connoisseurs

Also inside: a preview of this month’s Harrogate Home & and Gift Gift 2012 2012 event event

editor's letter

Jewellery Editor Louise Hoffman

FOCUS

louise@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Editorial Assistants Naida Ally naida@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Callum Gildart

callum@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Deputy Production Editor Lewis Bowes copy@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Reporter Emily Northcott emily@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Group Advertisement Manager Kelly Smith kelly@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Deputy Group Advertisement Manager Julie-Ann Kwok julie@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Senior Sales Executive Michele Rogers michele@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Sales Executive Cally Harrison cally@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Accounts Maureen Scrivener accounts@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Customer Services 01206 767 797 customers@mulberrypublications.co.uk

Contributing writers:

Brad Huisken, David Wilding, Janet Fitch, Russell Clinton, Syreeta Tranfield

Design Arthouse Publishing Solutions contact@arthousepublishing.co.uk

In support of:

Jewellery Focus

Editor’s letter D

uring the past month I’ve had the opportunity to witness three very different aspects of the jewellery sector at first hand.

Firstly, at the press opening of the Goldsmiths’ Company’s ‘Gold: Power and Allure’ exhibition, I saw laid out in front of me a jewellery timeline, from the Bronze Age right through to the present day, which allowed me not only to appreciate the history of design, but also man’s love affair with gold throughout the ages (see pages 18 to 22 for more detail).

The concept of history and modernity existing alongside each other was then further demonstrated at my next appointment, at the newly opened Goldsmiths’ Centre in Clerkenwell. Consisting of a state-of-the-art, four-storey new build standing alongside a Grade II listed Victorian board school (which was also sympathetically restored during the site’s redevelopment), the Centre physically and symbolically unites the past and present.

Peter Taylor, the director of the Centre, showed me around the buildings, which are joined together by the glass-roofed reception area, pointing out such highlights as the renewable-energy-powered heating and lighting; the well-equipped conference and exhibition facilities; and the workshops that are beginning to welcome their first students and experienced craftspeople. I was even treated to a glimpse of some of the drawings that were being produced by jewellery designer and post-graduate student Mahtab Hanna.

Though it is not yet fully occupied, I detected a definite sense of anticipation, excitement and optimism for the future of jewellery design during my time at the Centre – no doubt partly derived from Peter’s passion for the venue and his role there. I hope to bring you more information on this inspiring development very soon.

Finally, the inaugural Jewellery Show London took place on 12 and 13 June and during my visit I was able to immerse myself in the business side of the jewellery sector, forging new relationships and discovering new designers and collections. When asking exhibitors and visitors about their opinions of this new event, feedback was overall very positive, and despite the relatively small space, Somerset House proved to be an inviting and friendly venue. I will be interested to hear more on this over the coming weeks.

I hope you enjoy the magazine and the month ahead.

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The editor and publishers do not guarantee the accuracy of statements made by contributors or advertisers, or accept responsibility for any statement that they express in this publication. The opinion of the contributors may not necessarily be the opinion of the publishers. Articles are considered for publication on the basis that they are the author’s original work. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the permission of the publishers.

Jewellery FOCUS

POLLY GASSTON

A series of ivy leaves interwoven with golden buttercups form Polly Gasston’s delicate and exquisite ‘Wreath’ – the result of a World Gold Council commission. Paying tribute to the English country garden and capturing the spirit of the quintessential English bride, the piece also embodies the spirit of the Olympic laurel and is a fitting tribute to the summer of the Olympic bride. The wreath was unveiled publicly for the first time at the ‘Gold: Power and Allure’ exhibition at Goldsmiths’ Hall. To read more, turn to page 20.

June 2012

www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk

£5.95

ISSN 2046-7265

FOCUS

Power and allure: A timeline of gold jewellery at Goldsmiths’ Hall Colourful and quirky collections to catch the eyes of young jewellery connoisseurs

Also inside: a preview of this month’s Harrogate Home and Gift 2012 event

Information: www.pollygasstongoldsmith.co.uk or www.goldinspirations.com

July 2012

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CONTENTS

Jewellery

© The Warden and Scholars of New College, Oxford/The Bridgeman Art Library

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July 2012 FEATURES Allure of the ages

18

Louise Hoffman reports back from an awe-inspiring visit to the ‘Gold: Power and Allure’ exhibition, currently being held at Goldsmiths’ Hall

Harrogate Home & Gift preview

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A sneak peek at this year’s Home & Gift show, which takes place from 15 to 18 July and is set to showcase the widest choice of products yet

Focus on children’s jewellery

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Naida Ally views the latest range of jewellery designs that are available as gifts or pocket-money-purchases for children and young teenagers

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Precious platinum

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Although platinum has not been as widely accessible as gold and silver due to its price, it continues to be a metal of aspiration, especially within the bridal market, as Louise Hoffman discovers

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REGULARS Roundup

The latest news from the industry

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A face to a name

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Janet Fitch

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Get acquainted with new and existing industry representatives With last month’s Jubilee flotilla still fresh in her mind, Janet presents some of her recent water- and sea-inspired jewellery discoveries for the coming season

Designers of the month

This month Louise Hoffman interviews the designers behind two World Gold Council commissioned sculptural jewellery pieces – Polly Gasston, Gary Wright and Sheila Teague

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A day at the Office

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Taking stock

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Selling

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Industry data

48

Voice on the highstreet

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In the next instalment of this fascinating series, precious metal melters David Wilding and Russell Clinton discuss the processes and challenges that face them on a daily basis New offerings from the industry

Watch focus

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Syreeta Tranfield

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Trends in timepieces This year’s BJA KickStarters have just been announced, and Syreeta gains an introduction to their latest collections and design inspiration

Brad Huisken moves onto the next stage of the selling process, explaining why establishing value is key to a successful sale

Ian Middleton, director, and Fiona Mawson, creative director/buyer, of Argenteus Jewellery Ltd

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And briefly Call to widen ‘conflict diamonds’ definition

Meeting on the final day of the 2012 World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) Congress in Vicenza, Italy, the General Assembly added its support to widen the definition of ‘conflict diamonds’ in the statutes of the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme. The resolution, passed by the supreme decision-making body of the CIBJO, read as follows: “The General Assembly of CIBJO adds its support to the World Diamond Council, which at its recent Plenary Session in Vicenza expressed its desire to conduct discussions to widen the ‘conflict diamonds’ definition in the core documents of the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) on the following basis: ‘diamond-related violence in rough diamond producing and trading areas’. Like the World Diamond Council, the General Assembly of CIBJO considers the proposal suggested in Vicenza by the Kimberley Process chair as a good basis for moving the discussion forward.”

British Library launches competition

The British Library has teamed up with Artquest to announce a competition that will see its winner receive a research residency at the Library. Applicants must be mid-career jewellers based in London with at least five years’ experience, and apply before 10am on 9 July. The winner will receive a £3,000 bursary to develop and potentially commercialise a new body of work inspired by materials from the British Library’s collections; access to the British Library collections and curators; and marketing support in relation to their residency.

Kath Libbert Jewellery Gallery celebrates

In celebration of the 16th anniversary of the Kath Libbert Jewellery Gallery’s move to Salts Mill, Kath Libbert Jewellery is launching a new exhibition entitled ‘Flourish’. Besides showcasing new jewellery, including a specially commissioned brooch of the gallery’s Salts Mill home, Flourish is hosting ‘FlourishRing’ – a competition in which 100 designers were invited to submit an exuberant celebratory ring to be judged by visitors to the gallery. The designer who receives the most votes will win £250.

Kath Libbert, the gallery’s founder and curator, said: “We are honoured that these celebrities of the jewellery world are all going to be taking part in FlourishRing along with many new creative talents. I can’t wait to see what they each come up with.” The exhibition runs from 12 July to 30 September.

JeDeCo to open flagship showroom

JeDeCo Jewellery Designers’ Collective opened its flagship showroom on the south bank of the Thames on 1 June.

Ten collections, from both established and emerging designer jewellers, were launched alongside JeDeCo’s new home.

Founder Cindy Dennis Mangan said: “JeDeCo is taking the exciting step into retail at a time when there is still some uncertainty in the marketplace. However, the reaction of jewellery lovers to our collections both at shows and online has always been incredibly strong, and we are confident that our showroom collaboration will become a one-stop destination for jewellery lovers, touring collectors, and stylists seeking unique jewels.”

July 2012

WB Group acquires Gecko Jewellery

WB The Creative Jewellery Group, the parent company of Domino, Weston Beamor and Advalorem brands, has announced the acquisition of Gecko Jewellery – something WB Group joint chairman Patrick Fuller puts down to “tremendous synergy” between the companies.

“We see the addition of Gecko to the WB Group as being a significant step towards being able to offer jewellery retailers throughout Europe a complete solution to their jewellery needs,” added Patrick (pictured).

“Gecko, like the WB Group, has built its business by providing great design, innovation and service and we believe there is tremendous synergy between our companies. Bringing them together will undoubtedly provide tremendous new opportunities for both businesses and their customers.”

Founders of Gecko Barry Bennett and Kate Carling, along with their fellow owner Mark Stimson, will remain with the business during its hand-over period. WB The Creative Jewellery Group does however intend for the company to continue trading as a separate entity with its current management and staff in place.

Andrew Morton, managing director of all the companies within WB The Creative Jewellery Group, will also become managing director of Gecko Jewellery.

Fairtrade and Fairmined gold arrives on the British high street

Two of Britain’s major high street jewellers have, for the first time, launched collections of Fairtrade and Fairmined gold bridal jewellery.

Ernest Jones and Beaverbrooks have become the first jewellers in the country to offer gold jewellery containing the Fairtrade and Fairmined dual stamp, which guarantees the gold has been responsibly sourced and certified to Fairtrade and Fairmined standards.

Victoria Waugh, business development manager at the Fairtrade Foundation, said: “Wedding rings made from Fairtrade and Fairmined gold are extra special. It means you know the gold was mined with care by small-scale artisanal miners, who received a fair price.”

Fairtrade and Fairmined gold is also being added to the collections of bespoke and independent jewellers, with Rachel Helen Designs and CRED Jewellery both launching ethical collections in May. “Couples are often looking for something different for their wedding ring, for such a significant event. I looked to create designs that tell a story, symbolising the ring’s future and past. I was inspired by the journey that CRED has gone on to source the gold and wanted the rings to signify that journey and the place which they came from. I found recurring patterns in clothing, landscape and nature,” said CRED designer, Annabel Panes.

High street sales grow during May

Retail sales volumes rose strongly in May compared to a year ago, but still fall below average for the time of year.

The CBI’s latest quarterly Distributive Trades Survey, conducted over the first two weeks of May, shows that 43 per cent of retailers reported an increase in their volume of sales compared to a year ago. Twenty-three per cent of those surveyed said they had seen a fall; resulting in a rounded balance of +21 per cent, which was broadly in line with forecasted expectations of 19 per cent.

The number of people employed in the retail sector increased on a year ago (12 per cent), for the first time since February 2003 (12 per cent), and in June retailers expect to continue recruiting more staff compared to a year ago (seven per cent).

Year-on-year price inflation remained strong at 54 per cent; a level that retailers expect will remain similar for June.

Jewellery FOCUS

ROUNDUP

Harriet Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery takes home Inspiring Hertfordshire Award 2012

Harriet Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery has triumphed yet again, this time at the glittering gala dinner at the Inspiring Hertfordshire Awards 2012.

The company, whose flagship design studio is based in rural Halls Green, won the Small to Medium Business of the Year award at the event, which was held at the Porsche Centre in Hatfield on Thursday 17 May. Harriet Kelsall, managing director of Harriet Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery, said: “Hertfordshire is the home of our business – we chose Hertfordshire as the location for our first premises in 2000, which remains our largest design studio – and so to win an award on home soil is a fantastic feeling.”

Tim Hutchings, chief executive of the Hertfordshire Chamber of Commerce and Industry, said: “Harriet Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery is a truly inspirational company, which within a very short period of time has become a national market leader in a growth area of bespoke jewellery, demonstrating outstanding qualities in all areas of its business.”

Celebrity endorsement

Image: Tim Alban and Harriet Kelsall.

Courtesy of Cocoon Photography.

EW Payne makes royal presentation

The Queen recently joined VIP clients of jeweller EW Payne at a lunch reception at the store to celebrate her visit to Bromley.

The Queen’s visit was made in preparation for the Diamond Jubilee, and resulted in Alastair Collier, MD of the family-owned jewellers, which was established in 1899, being invited to present a gift to Her Majesty on behalf of Bromley businesses.

A limited edition Halcyon Day carriage clock was chosen as the gift (number 60, in recognition of her 60-year reign), and Alastair’s second cousin, Alice Dyer (7), was on hand to help with the presentation.

Previous royal gift presentations for EW Payne include a limited edition goblet, given to HRH Prince Charles in 1977 by Alastair’s late father, Jim Collier, to commemorate the opening of the Churchill Theatre.

“Our team here at EW Payne was absolutely delighted to be chosen to personally present Her Majesty with a gift on this very special occasion. Our store was selected on behalf of Bromley – such an honour among so many other incredibly successful businesses in this part of the country,” said Alastair.

Stars sparkle in Carat* at the BAFTAs

At last month’s Arqiva BAFTA TV Awards, Carat* was once again the jewellery brand of choice for most of the stars.

Dazzling on the red carpet in a variety of styles and a myriad of stone colours, celebrities included Kierston Waering, Jenny Agutter, Lucy Jo Hudson, Dame Kelly Holmes, Melissa George and Katherine Kelly (pictured).

The most notable choices were statement chandelier earrings in white and yellow diamonds, emerald and sapphire colour stones, although ruby and garnet colour stones also proved very popular this year.

Jewellery FOCUS

July 2012

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Diamond market

The start of May saw reports that polished prices were stable in April, with the RAPI for one carat down 0.2 per cent amid a low trading volume, whilst pressure for higher polished prices was said to be due to high rough prices as opposed to an improving consumer demand.

During mid-May, concerns regarding the Indian government’s actions created a threat to diamond market liquidity and price stability.

The rupee fell to a record low of 54.6 per dollar. Elsewhere in the world, diamond markets were relatively cautious ahead of Las Vegas shows, as the European crisis fuelled uncertainty. Gold jewellery demand was up 14 per cent to $28.3 billion (£18.4 billion), but volume was down six per cent to 519.8 tons in the first quarter as Indian demand slumped and China’s grew. Richemont’s FY jewellery sales were up 32 per cent to $5.9 billion (£3.8 billion). Christie’s Geneva jewels sold $110.2 million (£71.7 million), with 87 per cent sold by lot. Sotheby’s Geneva jewels sold $108.4 million (£70.5 million), with 94 per cent sold by lot, and the infamous Beau Sancy reaching $9.7 million (£6.3 million).

The Gemological Institute of America reported that CVD synthetic diamonds were being traded without disclosure, and advised buyers to require Natural Untreated Diamonds be included on all invoices.

Images: Monnickendam Diamonds

July 2012

Designer to cycle across Cuba for cancer charity challenge

Designer jeweller Amanda Cox is getting on her bike and taking part in the third Women V Cancer challenge, to raise money to fight against breast, ovarian and cervical cancers.

Amanda is part of a group of women tackling the challenge, and will join a team of cyclists riding through Cuba to support the work of three charities: Breast Cancer Care, Jo’s Cervical Cancer Trust and Ovarian Cancer Action. A donation will also be made to support cancer care in Cuba.

“These cancers are close to a lot of people’s hearts. Most people know somebody who has been or who may well be affected by one of them. We’ve all got mothers, daughters, sisters and friends. It could affect any one of us at any time,” she said.

Amanda will be cycling from 21 to 29 October 2013, travelling around 400 kilometres over five days – both on and off road – and experiencing rural Cuba away from the usual tourist trails.

Amanda added: “I took up cycling to take part in the first Women V Cancer challenge in February this year, cycling 400 kilometres through the Rift Valley in Kenya. It wasn’t easy – tarmac full of large potholes, extremely hilly and temperatures reaching the mid 30s. A lot of the women cyclists were themselves cancer survivors and incredibly inspirational. This challenge raised £1.6 million for the cancer charities, and we donated clothing, games, writing and drawing equipment to several schools along our route; the smiles this bought about were heart-warming.”

As well as training hard, Amanda needs to raise a minimum of £2,900 to support the work of the Women V Cancer charities, and is asking companies to help her reach that target. She is paying her own costs so a donation goes directly to the charities. To pledge your support for Amanda, either post your sponsorship made payable to Women V Cancer, to Amanda Cox Jewellery, PO Box 68, Hebden Bridge, HX7 7WB, or telephone her on 01422 842 446. Alternatively, you can make an online donation at: www.justgiving.com/amanda-cyclecuba For further information about Women V Cancer visit www.actionforcharity.co.uk or telephone Action for Charity on 0845 408 2698 or 01590 677 854.

Edinburgh Assay Office to launch online consumer assurance scheme

Edinburgh Assay Office has launched the jewellery industry’s first consumer online assurance scheme – Assay Assured.

Sales of fake and counterfeit jewellery have risen innumerably over the last five years, with one leading UK jewellery brand claiming to have successfully removed £200 million of fake jewellery in just 12 months.

Retailers already signed up to Assay Assured include Links of London, Ortak, Monica Vinader and Clogau Gold.

Assay Assured’s launch means that for the first time online jewellery retailers, from big brands to independents, can prove they are accredited. The hallmark is the oldest form of consumer protection and, now it has gone digital, online retailers can show their customers that they adhere to a strict code of conduct centred around compliance with the Hallmarking Act, and are backed by the Edinburgh Assay Office.

According to IMRG figures, UK online retail sales rose to £5.8 billion in March 2012, however trust issues mean that shoppers are far more likely to buy with ‘big names’ rather than independent or auction sites.

Scott Walter, CEO of Edinburgh Assay Office, explained: “UK hallmarks have provided consumer protection for hundreds of years by guaranteeing the precious metal content in a piece of jewellery. Today online shoppers have no way of checking whether a piece of jewellery is hallmarked or not. Assay Assured is a digital solution to an ancient problem and we believe it will provide the protection consumers look for online. The issue of fake and counterfeit jewellery online is plaguing the industry and honest retailers are suffering because online sales often circumvent existing regulation and consumer protection.”

Assay Assured will carry out an audit of online retailers’ websites before accrediting them. Members of the scheme will need to pay an annual fee for administration of the scheme, starting at £125 (dependent on the estimated average number of monthly online transactions).

Jewellery FOCUS

Jewellery FOCUS

July 2012

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Celebrity endorsement

Andy Murray: the new face of Rado

The world number four and the British number one tennis player Andy Murray has signed a contract with Swiss watch brand Rado to be its latest ambassador.

The Rado D-Star 200 Collection, which is also the official tournament watch of the Aegon Championships at the Queen’s Club, is teaming up with Murray for the 2012 spring/ summer season.

Rado CEO Matthias Breschan said that “Rado admires [Murray’s] true talent and perfectionism – and at the same time can identify totally with his ‘racquet rebel’ side.”

Murray, who has 22 ATP titles and was the first British teenager to reach the top 100 in over 30 years, is seen as a perfect candidate for Rado, which says that breakthroughs and world records punctuate its history.

“I’m really excited about joining the Rado team. The brand is all about edgy style and performance, and timing, precision and accuracy are vitally important for me, whether that relates to fitness drills, measuring my performance or striking a tennis ball,” said Murray.

And briefly Laing the Jeweller opens watch gallery Laing the Jeweller, Scotland’s oldest family jeweller, launched an extended luxury watch gallery on 2 June. Located on Frederick Street in Edinburgh, the store houses watch collections from Omega, Chopard and Longines in bespoke interior surroundings. Michael Laing OBE, managing director of Laing the Jeweller, commented: “Sales of high quality watches remain buoyant. As a result we decided [to] expand our current watch gallery offering and are delighted to launch our unique watch gallery.”

July 2012

Tendence to celebrate young jewellery designer success Image: Messe Franfurt Exhibition GmbH/Pietro Sutera

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International consumer goods fair Tendence will this year celebrate the 11th anniversary of the ‘Talents’ scheme, which gives young jewellery designers the chance to showcase their work to an audience at a series of events.

Lasting from 24 to 28 August, and with an anticipated trade visitor attendance of more than 50,000, Frankfurt’s Tendence provides an order and trend barometer for the second half of the year.

This year’s fair will see 40 young designers from 11 countries participate in the ‘Talents’ show, with 19 of the newcomers presenting their jewellery and personal accessories designs in the ‘Giving’ section of the hall.

In celebration of the initiative’s anniversary, there will be a special ‘10 + 1 Talents’ show, presenting the most successful designers to have emerged from the promotional programme over the years.

Additionally, there will be a book containing the stories of more than 60 former ‘Talents’ to accompany the ‘10 + 1 Talents’ show, tracking the development of the designers from their first appearance at the fair to the present day.

Nicolette Naumann, vice president of Ambiente/Tendence, commented: “Year in, year out, I am delighted by the wealth of ideas and creativity demonstrated by the young designers.

This year, too, they will be showing a host of fascinating innovations in many different styles; sometimes they mix traditional with modern elements [and] sometimes they present new techniques or re-interpret ancient handicraft skills.”

For more information about Tendence, visit www.tendence.messefrankfurt.com

BJA launches Diamond Jubilee brooch competition

In celebration of the Diamond Jubilee, the British Jewellers’ Association (BJA) has launched a competition to create a commemorative diamond brooch for the Queen.

Designs will be inspired by Her Majesty’s 60 year (and counting) reign and encompass the elegance, grace and empathy of the Queen’s tenure, within a fine-jewellery brooch.

Members of the BJA have pledged and donated materials, including a selection of natural diamonds and a diamond that incorporates the colours of four national flowers – red, yellow, green and lilac – to create a ‘pot’ from which the winning brooch can be manufactured.

Speaking about the competition, the BJA’s marketing manager Lindsey Straughton said: “The idea is that the manufacture, mounting, setting and polishing is all undertaken by BJA member firms that are willing to put their skills to use and give their time to fashion this unique item.

“The brooch is to be made primarily in platinum and Lonmin has generously pledged up to 60 grams. Other mines across the British Isles are giving some small quantity of rare English, Welsh, Scottish and Irish gold, which may also be incorporated into the design.”

The Queen will be gifted with the brooch after it has been displayed at a BJA event at the House of Commons in November. Shortlisted designs will be shown and voted on via the BJA website and the BJA stand during International Jewellery London in September, and the winner will be announced at lunchtime on the last day of the show.

Successful launch for Heresy Jewellery Design

Heresy Jewellery Design’s launch event took place on 16 May at the Avon Gorge Hotel in Bristol, and was attended by Silent Witness star Emilia Fox, among other guests.

Heresy, founded by certified gemmologist and creative Matthew Morrell, offers a fresh approach to commissioning and customising fine jewellery for a discerning clientele, aiming to cultivate trust by bridging the ‘information gap’ and producing Image: Emilia Fox with Matthew fine jewellery with a ‘wow factor’.

Morrell, managing director of Heresy.

Guests from local business, arts, the media and the local retail community were able to listen to an explanation of the story behind the business, delivered

by Matthew himself, as well as a short presentation about fineness and inclusions in coloured gemstones.

Matthew was also able to announce that Heresy Jewels is licensed to design and propose fine jewellery fabricated with Fairtrade and Fairmined gold bearing the Fairtrade Foundation’s stamp.

Jewellery FOCUS

Jewellery FOCUS

July 2012

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ROUNDUP

And briefly byBiehl jewellery supports Alice’s Escapes

byBiehl’s ‘sunshine’ pod will be the signature piece of charity jewellery in its collection to support the Alice’s Escapes charity. Alice’s Escapes is a volunteerrun charity set up by 16-year-old cancer sufferer Alice Pyne, which aims to raise money to provide free holidays to families with seriously ill children. Last June Alice started a blog that detailed her own personal ‘bucket list’. One year and many bucket list experiences later, Alice’s website has had almost four million visits that have resulted in generous donations of gifts, experiences and money to help both Alice and her charity. Inspired by Alice’s fundraising efforts and bravery, byBiehl decided to designate its sunshine pod as a piece of charity jewellery – the proceeds from which will go directly to the Alice’s Escapes charity. byBiehl is working closely with the Pyne family and is actively encouraging jewellers throughout the country to place an Alice’s Escapes collection pot in-store.

New skills academy for creative sector

A new investment has been announced to extend the National Skills Academy Creative & Cultural to benefit the jewellery sector. The new academy will build on its existing track record to create career opportunities for aspiring young people in the jewellery sector and help the industry prosper in the current economic climate.

The initiative is led by Creative & Cultural Skills and other partners including the Goldsmiths’ Company, Holt’s Academy and the British Jewellers’ Association. Minister for Further Education, Skills and Lifelong Learning John Hayes said: “It is businesses themselves that are best-placed to identify the skills they need to drive growth. This investment is very good news for the creative industries and will help them to overcome the skills gaps that stand in the way of them meeting their full potential.”

International Palladium Board and Lara Bohinc partnership

The International Palladium Board has announced luxury jewellery designer Lara Bohinc as its latest partner for 2012.

Two Lara Bohinc palladium ranges will launch this month: the Palladium Fine Jewellery Collection and the Palladium Collision Collection. “Palladium has empowered me to design a bold and luxurious collection,” said Lara Bohinc.

“The lattice formation provides strength while allowing for the illumination of the pearls. I have thoroughly enjoyed the challenge of working with an unexplored and pioneering new metal; one that has broadened the potential for my future collections.” Brad Mills, chairman of International Palladium Board, added: “Lara Bohinc has intelligently interpreted palladium and its unique properties. We are proud to unveil Lara as our fine jewellery partner and her outstanding designs are sure to inspire the jewellery world to consider palladium as the contemporary precious metal of the future.”

Clarification

As jeweller Christine Sadler has quite rightly pointed out to us in relation to Michael Hoare’s ‘Going for gold’ article, which appeared in last month’s Jewellery Focus, scrap gold dealers in Scotland are in fact already required to hold a licence issued by their local authority, in accordance with the Metal Dealer Licensing under the Civic Government (Scotland) Act 1982.

July 2012

Goldsmiths launches Best of British collection

To celebrate the best of all things British, Goldsmiths jewellers has launched an initiative that celebrates the finest home grown jewellery design talent.

Best of British is a limited edition collection that will feature design pieces from numerous British independent designers such as Alexis Dove, Bobby White, Cinderela B, Daisy Knights, Laura Gravestock, Joseph Lamsin, Sonya Bennett and Skulls & Orchids.

Goldsmiths states that the collection takes “inspiration from childhood memories, nature and wildlife, and the quintessentially British rock ‘n’ roll scene,” to pay “patriotic homage to the country, as well as embracing the international design influences of its handpicked designers.”

Birmingham Jewellery Quarter celebrates its successful BID

The Birmingham Jewellery Quarter’s business community approved proposals for its own Business Improvement District (BID) on Friday 25 May, after a large number of people voted in favour of the initiative.

A BID is defined as a precise geographical area in which businesses invest collectively in local improvements and additional services.

Over 600 local businesses were asked to vote to support the initiative, which will see companies with premises with a rateable value of £10,000 and above pay an annual levy to fund additional investment for the benefit of the whole area.

The BID received an encouraging 45 per cent turnout of voters, with 80 per cent of those businesses voting ‘yes’. It is estimated that the BID levy will bring in an estimated £2 million over its five-year lifespan and could be expected to lever in a similar amount from other resources.

The Birmingham Jewellery Quarter BID was promoted by the Jewellery Quarter Development Trust (JQDT), in partnership with Birmingham City Council, and chaired by David Mahony, managing director of PCPT Architects in Spencer Street, Birmingham.

David said: “This is very positive for businesses in the Quarter. With the establishment of the BID, we will now be able to deliver a whole range of enhancements to the area that will improve the experience of those who work and visit here and also unlock the Jewellery Quarter’s ability to attract more investment, employment and visitors.

“The resounding result in favour also demonstrates that businesses understand the real difference that a BID can make to an area.”

The Jewellery Quarter BID, which officially begins life in October 2012, will now be governed by business levy payers and supported by a full time BID manager, who will be appointed shortly.

The aim of the BID is to help improve the Quarter, providing a welcoming environment for visitors, clean and safer streets, improving marketing to increase footfall and inward investment, and improving connectivity to the city centre.

Dates for your diary...

24 – 28 August

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2 – 5 September

Tendence 2012 Fair and Exhibition Centre Frankfurt, Germany

www.tendence.messefrankfurt.com

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Autumn Fair International NEC, Birmingham www.autumnfair.com

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International Jewellery London Earls Court 2, London

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London Fashion Week Somerset House London

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J’adore Jewellery and Silversmithing Fair Putteridge Bury House Putteridge, near Luton www.romorexhibitions.co.uk/jadore_october.html

Jewellery FOCUS

Letter to the Editor

Dear Editor, Insurance companies seem to be seeking to put an end to indepen dent jewellers in Britain. I say this as a jeweller/mounter who qualified in 1975 and subsequently opened my own business in 1984. I currently emp loy six people, four of whom are highly skilled craftspeople capable of mak ing virtually anything by hand in pre cious metal. The high price of raw materials has led to a huge drop in our offthe-peg sales, but on the plus side we have never had more commissions.

Having been in business in the sam e location for over 25 years I hav ea very large customer base. Many of these customers come from loya l families who have regularly celebrated imp ortant events with specially commis sioned items of jewellery. However I am increasingly annoyed when my cust omers visit me to help them make a clai m for an item. Too frequently they are informed by their insurers that only specified jewellers can be used to replace their valuables – this is des pite the fact that I can re-make them exactly as the originals!

In the last month I have given five estimates for items I originally manufactured, only to be informe d by my customers that the insurer s insist they find a replacement on the high street. In one case an insurer told my customer to get a copy of her orig inal order to prove its existence, despite the fact that she had an independent valuation and photographs. It took half a day of ploughing through old reco rds to find her original commission (from 2005), which I then photocopied and sent to her insurer, only to be told we are “not on their list of approved jewellers”. What kind of message does this give to our customer?

During my career I have made item s for the Queen and members of the royal family as well as many pro minent public commissions, but app arently I am not ‘qualified’ to re-make a hand-carved gold pendant to rep lace the original one which I made. Ofte n this original piece was made foll owing several consultations, calling the customer back at every stage to mak e sure it met with his or her approval. We take great pride in everything we make and for us each piece is special. If our customers have taken out ade quate insurance surely they should be able to ‘replace’ lost or stolen item s likefor-like, or is this no longer a lega l probability?

What will happen when there are no jewellers left to make anythin g in this country? The amount of money gen erated by insurance companies is too often being used to finance foreign com petition.

I’d love to know what other jewelle rs think about this.

Michael King

Jewellery FOCUS

July 2012

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face to a name

Three minute

interview

Face to a name Get acquainted with new and existing industry representatives

The Goldsmiths’ Company welcomes a new prime warden

Peter Breddal, owner and MD at Nina Breddal Ltd Describe yourself in three words Danish, British, Chilean.

When did you join the company and what attracted you to the role?

In 1973 – our family business was pioneering the importation of Danish products to the UK.

What does your typical day involve?

There’s no such thing as a typical day! But one third of my time is spent on design; one third on customer service; and one third on management.

Which aspects of your job do you most enjoy and why?

Sales – many of our customers have become personal friends.

What is your proudest achievement?

The continuity of a profitable business for 39 years.

What is the best advice you’ve been given in life or work?

My father Poul Breddal told me that raising your game just a little bit will pay great dividends. He was right.

What can your company do for its customers?

Our trade website, www.ninabreddal.com, is a customer resource of over 2,000 designs.

We have manufacturing workshops in the UK and offer a personal service on which customers can depend.

July 2012

The Goldsmiths’ Company, one of the Twelve Great Livery Companies of the City of London, has a new prime warden – Lord Sutherland of Houndwood.

Lord Sutherland (71) is one of the country’s pre-eminent philosophers of religion and has enjoyed a long and distinguished career in academia. In recognition of his commitment to education, he received a Knighthood in 1994 and was subsequently invested with the Order of the Thistle in 2003.

Lord Sutherland joined the Goldsmiths’ Company in 1987, was elected to the Livery in 1991 and to the Court of Assistants in 2000, and has been a long-serving member of the Company’s Education Committee.

Lord Sutherland said: “I am looking forward to my year as prime warden. We live in challenging times, which makes the Company’s educational and charitable initiatives even more pertinent. In addition, the Company’s commitment and responsibility towards its trade and industry remain at its core, as has been demonstrated by the considerable investment in the new Goldsmiths’ Centre, which was officially opened in April. While demanding, this is nonetheless an exciting time to be prime warden of such an august and proactive Company.”

Image: Lord Sutherland of Houndwood, prime warden of the Goldsmiths’ Company. By Julia Skupny.

Designer Marc Ross joins ROX

ROX the jeweller has announced the appointment of top Scottish fashion designer Marc Ross as its creative director.

Marc, who trained with Vivienne Westwood and has designed for stars including Cheryl Cole and Jessie J, joins the award-winning brand in a new position, which will see him take responsibility for all creative aspects of the business ranging from branding and visual concepts to the design and development of the ROX Silver collection.

He has also designed a new bespoke uniform for ROX’s 60 sales consultants – a feminine dress which has a strong focus on silhouette and a structured neckline designed so that staff can model necklaces for customers.

“The decision to join ROX ultimately grew from having the pleasure of hosting an event with Design Collective Scotland, where we showcased our S/S12 collections in the Thrill Room of the Argyll Arcade store earlier this year. After collaborating with ROX and seeing how fashion focused the brand is and how committed it is to supporting Scottish talent, I was very impressed with the brand ethos,” Marc explained.

MD of ROX, Kyron Keogh, added: “When we met Marc we were impressed by his artistic vision, and attention to detail. [His] talents transfer incredibly well into the jewellery industry and we believe that he has the potential to create collections as beautiful and diverse as talented jewellery artisans like Shaun Leane and Theo Fennell.”

Jewellery FOCUS

Jewellery FOCUS

July 2012

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TRENDS

Making a splash This month Janet Fitch presents some of her recent water- and sea-inspired jewellery discoveries for the coming season

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ewellery and ornament in all its forms certainly took pride of place in June, kick-started by the Jubilee, and followed by events in and around the Jewellery Show; the degree shows; and the season’s highlights – racing at Ascot, tennis at Wimbledon, and rowing at the Henley Regatta.

The latter, combined with memories of the very wet flotilla, brings me to the subject of water-inspired jewellery, especially pearls – always loved, but now enjoying a renaissance, with a modern and organic feel, enhanced by unusual colours and inventive new designs.

The doyenne of pearls for me is Chrissie Douglas, who is the designer and instigator of Coleman Douglas Pearls, based in Knightsbridge, London. Pearls are her passion and she is a leading authority in the field. Since the early 1990s she has established a name for quality alongside a reputation for cutting edge collections that challenge the outdated ‘twinset and pearls’ image.

Her designs blend high quality pearls, including Tahitian and South Sea pearls, with semi-precious stones, and even leather and felt,

Coleman Douglas Pearls

to produce four ranges – Couture, Bridal, Chelsea and Fine Jewellery. To these she has just added Pearls and Men, a collection that challenges the notion that pearls are only for women, mixing lustrous pearls with metal and leather in practical and wearable designs for men.

The A/W 2012 range – Colour?

What Colour? – is divided into Nude, Gothic, Vintage Glam and Regal Classic collections, all in fresh and eyecatching colourways. The new Perfect Pearls range is at budget prices and looks perfect for the young. (www.pearls.co.uk) Frogpearl is a Swedish company, founded last year by a former dancer, Felicia Sobocki, and specialising in ethically sourced AA certified cultured freshwater pearl jewellery. To create a contemporary look, irregular pearls are used, and necklaces are opera (90 centimetres) or rope (130 centimetres) length, instead of the classic princess length. The current collection – the Blue Summer Collection – is now available in the UK, as is the Ethical Berry Pearl Collection, recently seen on Crown Princess Victoria of Sweden. (www.frogpearl.com)

Frogpearl

July 2012

Jewellery FOCUS

TRENDS

Sian Bostwick

Pearls of the Orient Mother and daughter team Vanessa and Sacha Wells started their company around a decade ago, using cultured freshwater pearls from China, working with suppliers there and in Thailand on design and quality standards.

Although it is a small family business, they have an extensive and affordable range, with pearls in a wide range of colours, mixed with semi-precious gemstones. In future they plan to introduce a selection of high-end South Sea, Tahitian and sea pearl jewellery. (www.pearlsoftheorient.co.uk) Mandana Oskoui’s designs show a striking and unusual way with pearls.

Her Monochrome Classic freshwater pearl necklace features 10 millimetre baroque pearls individually knotted onto a chunky rutile clasp of oxidised sterling silver set with a round faceted white topaz. The clasp is cleverly designed to be worn at the back, asymmetrically at the side, or as a focal point at the front. (www.mandanaoskoui.com) On a nautical theme, Sian Bostwick’s Nautilus range, inspired by Jules Verne’s classic tale, 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, was launched at Treasure at Somerset House in June.

The necklace, bracelet, ring and drop earrings, in deep blue anodised titanium set in black oxidised silver, symbolise the hidden world of the Nautilus ship. (www.sianbostwick.co.uk) Johnny Mirpuri’s graceful earrings are in sterling silver and faceted marquise black onyx. Each varying length of chain is oxidised in graduated sections to create a monochrome but sparkling cascade effect that gives the earrings their name – Aguaceros, meaning heavy showers in Spanish. (www.mirpurijewellery.com) New Designers is always a fascinating opportunity to spot new talent. The ‘One Year On’ area is especially fruitful, and of the ones to watch I like the Lost Words and With Love collections of Nicola Crawford.

Inspired by an antique shop find of a World War Two letter, and by old, illegible postcards ending in ‘love’ or ‘x’, the jewellery “conveys the permanence of a handwritten letter that can be held in the hand and treasured.” (New Designers Part One is held from 27 to 30 June 2012, while Part Two is held from 4 to 7 July, www.newdesigners.com)

Johnny Mirpuri

Nicola Crawford, New Designers

Mandana Oskoui Jewellery FOCUS

July 2012

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Gold exhibition

Allure of the ages

A visit to the ‘Gold: Power and Allure’ exhibition at Goldsmiths’ Hall proved to be a morning extremely well spent for Louise Hoffman…

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escribed by the Goldsmiths’ Company as the most ambitious exhibition it has held at Goldsmiths’ Hall to date, ‘Gold: Power and Allure’ brings together a fascinating array of gold objects from across the ages (2500 BC to present) and around Britain, demonstrating the immense value that has been placed upon the metal by mankind ever since its discovery, as well as its wide range of applications.

Since all of the exhibits have been loaned from distinguished institutions and private collections, it is the first time that such an extraordinary group of objects has been brought together, and in fact many have rarely been seen in public before.

“Gold: Power and Allure presents the opportunity of a lifetime. The challenge has been to draw together the many strands that make a single precious metal so special and central to human society,” explains historian and curator of the exhibition, Dr Helen Clifford.

“With the focus on Britain it has been possible to assemble a story that goes far back into geological time, and forward to the most cutting edge gold-working, where this country excels.

“It reveals a story of the continuity of man’s fascination with gold, from the Bronze Age to modern City finance, via a breathtaking range of more than 4,000 years of work. In essence it is a story of global connections and one where the familiar is transmuted into the iconic, via the power of gold.”

In addition to such captivating objects as swords, crowns, snuff boxes and medallions, the 400-plus-piece exhibition includes many pieces of jewellery, both ancient and modern.

One exciting example of early gold work is a magnificent lunula dating from 2000 to 1500 BC (pictured), which was found in Northern Ireland on land then owned by the Worshipful Company of Drapers in circa 1845/6. These distinctive early Bronze Age crescent moon shaped pieces were hammered out of gold and thought to have been made to adorn the necks of tribal chieftans.

Less than 200 gold lunulae are known and it is possible they were all the work of a handful of experts. Three of them from different sources are on display at Goldsmiths’ Hall, along with a range of gold torcs (neck ornaments) from Ipswich

July 2012

and the great hoards at Snettisham, Newark and Stirling, which reveal the skills of the later Bronze Age and early Iron Age goldsmiths. The latter, discovered in 2009 in a field in Stirlingshire, is described as one of the most important hoards found in Scotland and is of international importance.

For the Medieval period, higher-end objects are exceptionally rare; many were made for the church and were subsequently destroyed or lost during the Reformation.

The exhibition presents a cluster of intimate and exquisite examples of medieval cabochon set gold brooches, such as the mid-14th-century ‘M’ brooch from New College Oxford, which caught my eye as a particularly awe-inspiring example, and the now famous Middleham Jewel, which was discovered by a metal detector near Middleham Castle in North Yorkshire in 1985. It hit the headlines when it sold for an outstanding £1.3 million at Sotheby’s in London. The 15th century gold lozenge shaped pendant is engraved with biblical scenes and set with a large sapphire, and has been generously loaned by the Yorkshire Museum.

Moving into the present day, the Goldsmiths’ Hall’s glass cabinets boasted jewellery masterpieces by Catherine Martin, who weaves gold thread into intricate jewellery using the Japanese Kumihimo technique, and Andrew Lamb, an award-winning Scottish goldsmith who exploits the extreme ductility of gold by entwining lengths of very fine 18 carat gold wire, creating jewellery which shimmers and ripples as it moves when worn on the body (both pictured opposite).

For me, however, the star of the show was surely Kevin Coates’ ‘The Touch of Midas’ brooch, which he created specifically for this exhibition (pictured opposite sitting on its stand), and I was lucky enough to speak to him in person and find out more about the piece (captured on camera by the Goldsmiths’ photographer in the image above!). Made of 18 carat yellow and white gold, silver, opal, and an ancient glass fragment, the piece features a crescent of piqué gold dots that spell the brooch’s title in the tactile language of Braille. Below this, and beneath a night sky evoked by the inlaid fragment of glass, which predates even the first telling of the tale of King Midas, lies the sleeping golden form of the king’s daughter.

Also displayed was his ‘Il Penseroso’ neckpiece, created in 20 carat gold, purple-black opal, amber and ebony, which was inspired by the first lines of Handel’s L’Allegro, il Penseroso

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The Middleham Jewel © Courtesy of the York Museums Trust Il Penseroso neckpiece, Kevin Coates

‘M’ Brooch © Courtesy of the Warden and Scholars of New College, Oxford/The Bridgeman Art Library

Necklace, Catherine Martin Brooch, Andrew Lamb ed il Moderato, a work, with words by Milton and Jennens, which explores the polarities of human nature, and suggests that a third way of reconciling opposites is possible, which Kevin himself interpreted as ‘love’. It is this love which is celebrated in the jewel, as it was also given to his wife as a birthday gift; their figures hollow cast in 20 carat gold.

I hope to bring you more on the story behind Kevin’s work, and further examples of his captivating designs, in a future issue.

And finally, no ‘Gold: Power and Allure’ write-up would be complete without mentioning the wonderful sculptural works by Polly Gasston and Wright & Teague, which were specially commissioned by the exhibition’s sponsor, the World Gold Council.

Speaking of the finished pieces, entitled Wreath and Pleiades, managing director of jewellery and marketing at the Council, David Lamb, said: “Newly designed, these sculptural works are both circular in form, but here the visual similarity ends. The graphic, linear, architectural contours of Pleiades by Wright & Teague provide a dramatic contrast to Wreath, the romantically organic, natural piece from Gasston. We are reaching a point where gold jewellery is no longer simply worn; it is now so highly valued that it has been elevated to the status of gold couture – a beautiful and deeply personal investment to be both admired and appreciated.”

To find out more about the visions that led to the creation of these pieces, I spoke to the designers themselves – turn the page to find out more!

‘Gold: Power and Allure’ is free to attend and runs until Saturday 28 July (Monday to Saturday, 10am to 5pm) at Goldsmiths’ Hall, Foster Lane, London EC2V 6BN. For more information visit

The Touch of Midas brooch on stand, Kevin Coates

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Designer

Crowning glory Displayed in all their glorious splendour at the opening of the ‘Gold: Power and Allure’ exhibition were two sculptural pieces specially commissioned by the World Gold Council. Louise Hoffman speaks with the jewellery designers behind these creations – Polly Gasston, Gary Wright and Sheila Teague July 2012

Jewellery FOCUS

Designer

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Polly Gasston – Wreath What is your background in jewellery design?

Since I was a little girl I have designed jewellery, but I received my formal training at the Sir John Cass College – as it was known then – from 1968 to 1972. In my college years I was greatly influenced by the likes of Peter Carl Faberge and more recently Dorrie Nossiter. Then I had a long time away from the bench, and when I came back to it in 2007 I found that my influences had changed. My primary influences are now Hellenistic Greece and the early Roman Empire, owing to the extensive travelling I have done, and my work has evolved to reflect this new interest.

What is the story behind your exhibition piece, entitled Wreath?

I have always wanted a reason to make a wreath like those popular in Greece prior to the time of Alexander the Great, and my sponsorship by the World Gold Council enabled me at last, in this Olympic year, to fulfil this dream.

In conducting research for the project, I looked at as many of the ancient wreaths as I could find that have been passed down to us, in order to get a feel for their design and construction. Then I decided that, although Olympic wreaths were traditionally made with laurel leaves, I would make my wreath more modern by using different foliage and incorporating flowers, which was seldom done.

Can you tell us more about the final piece?

The wreath literally grew as I worked with it; I hadn’t clearly imagined the finished effects of either the ivy leaves or the shiny buttercups, or how they would look together.

Interestingly I feel that, now it is finished, the ivy leaves are a very male representative and the buttercups very female, which makes it an all-encompassing tribute to modern-day accomplishments – particularly Olympic accomplishments.

For which reasons do you enjoy working with gold?

For me it is the perfect medium: malleable, ductile, timeless and untarnishable; and 22 carat gold, which is my chosen alloy, represents everything that is positive to me.

The Greeks used to think gold was a dense concentration of sunshine and water, and in their own way I think they were right.

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“Although Olympic wreaths were traditionally made with laurel leaves, [I decided] I would make my wreath more modern by using different foliage and incorporating flowe rs”

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July 2012

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Designer

Wright & Teague – Pleiades What are your backgrounds in jewellery design?

We met and studied at Central Saint Martins in London from 1972 to 1975 and have been creating jewellery together since then.

Which piece from the exhibition were you inspired by and why?

The exhibition features entirely British-made gold artefacts, including the earliest known piece found in the British Isles – a lunula from the Bronze Age dated 2000 to 1500 BC. This piece is made using techniques similar to those that we have used in the making of our piece entitled Pleiades, continuing a narrative that is jewellery and craftwork in general.

How did you apply this inspiration during the creative development of Pleiades?

The neckpiece was designed to reflect this original piece, using the same lightness of materials and relationship to the body, and therefore continuing the thread from the Bronze Age to the current day with the Wright & Teague piece.

While utilising traditional goldsmithing techniques, this collar is intended to be resolutely contemporary in both approach and impact.

“ We endeavour to create a finish on gold that has the feeling of ancient gold, which has been newly discovered/ excavated”

Can you tell us more about the final piece?

The piece is intended to make an historical connection with the history of goldsmithing in Britain. It consists of seven collars representing the Pleiades – the seven sisters of the constellation of Taurus; astronomy that was known to people in the Bronze Age. The collars are designed to be worn or exhibited singly or together; their striking silhouette taking reference from an Elizabethan ruff. The collars themselves are based on the idea of a leaf wrapped around the body, reflective of ancient man’s desire to decorate and celebrate with available materials. Poetry from the quintessential British poet Wordsworth is engraved onto each collar, expressing the idea of care of nature as essential; a sentiment that is topical.

For which reasons do you enjoy working with gold?

There is a deeply ingrained historical and romantic association with gold that transcends its purely fiscal value.

In our jewellery, metal is the main material with gems as an accent. We absolutely love gold, for its malleability, variety of colour and its ability to translate our design. We endeavour to create a finish on gold that has the feeling of ancient gold, which has been newly discovered/excavated, and tell the story not only of its design but of the ore itself that has lain hidden for millennia.

For more information, please visit www.goldinspirations.com

July 2012

Jewellery FOCUS

Jewellery FOCUS

July 2012

A Wardle & Co Jewellery Casting & Manufacturing Established over 50 years in the Birmingham Jewellery Quarter • Casting in all precious and base metal alloys • All scale/sizes of casting undertaken • Master Pattern and Design work • Specialist pattern and casting advice • Bespoke/individual pieces a speciality An individual service tailored to our customers needs 51 Albion Street, Birmingham, B1 3EA Email info@awardle.co.uk Website www.awardle.co.uk Tel 0121 236 2733

July 2012

Jewellery FOCUS

Harrogate Home & Gift

Gifts galore

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he 51st edition of Home & Gift returns to Harrogate from 15 to 18 July 2012, with over 1,000 exhibitors and a plethora of new product launches.

This year sees the introduction of a new look logo for the event, rebranded with a design to “better reflect Home & Gift’s offering and show the evolution of the event over the past 50 years.” The new branding has been rolled out across all marketing materials, which have been distributed over the past few months in the run up to the show.

Other new additions to the show this year include the Greetings & Stationery Gallery – a brand new hall within the Harrogate International Centre, which features over 100 exhibitors – and the Boutique section, which is a platform for suppliers of uniquely crafted jewellery and fashion designs to meet retailers. Visitors will be able to view original, one-off jewellery and fashion pieces from new-to-market and established designers such as Kutuu, My Walit, By-lin, Dominique Bag Company, Braintree Hemp, Midhaven, Orelia, Breil, Ingenious Jewellery, Katie Mullally and many more.

The event is organised into four core categories: Gift, Home, Greetings & Stationery, and Jewellery & Fashion.

Already secured for the Jewellery & Fashion zone are Adele Marie, Banyan Jewellery, Carrie Elspeth, Exotic Silver, Hazel Atkinson, Jules Jules, Midhaven, Paradise Jewellery, Thammarat Trading and Vizati, to name but a few.

Hazel Atkinson will be exhibiting for the first time this year. She explains: “I tried a couple of other shows last

Jewellery FOCUS

This year, the organisers of Harrogate Home & Gift aim to showcase the widest choice of products ever seen at the event, providing plenty of opportunities to place orders for Christmas

year but wanted something different. I like Harrogate as a place – it’s a nice place to spend four days, and also you get a lot more Scottish and northern buyers. After all, not everything happens in London!”

Ken Daniels, director at Thammarat Trading Ltd, will be returning for a second year. He says: “Harrogate proved to be good for us in 2011 and we were happy with the footfall, so we’re returning again this year.”

Meanwhile, this will be Paradise Jewellery’s third consecutive year exhibiting. “We picked up some good follow-ons last year,” explains office manager Sue Taylor, “plus, it’s a nice venue and a nice place to visit.”

Independent research conducted by DKH in July 2011 showed that 81 per cent of visiting retailers place orders before leaving the show, with 73 per cent of buyers making purchases specifically for the Christmas period. Show director Joanna Bush says: “The Home & Gift team has been working hard to present retailers with the widest choice of products ever seen at the show.

With an extended design-led offering, plus growth in our Intro North section of 30 per cent, the introduction of Boutique and our brand new Greetings & Stationery Gallery in Hall H, we’re certain retailers will be able to get the most from their time at the show and stock up on unique products that will give their store a real point of difference on the high street this Christmas.”

For more information, please visit www.homeandgift.co.uk

July 2012

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Harrogate Home & Gift

®®Banyan Jewellery is looking forward to showing customers its very successful 2012 range at the Home & Gift fair in Harrogate.

This event matches Banyan to its customer more accurately than most others, and although only its third time exhibiting, Banyan feels at home in Harrogate. Its range of silver jewellery is described as “unique and eclectic”, and “each piece boasts design credentials which defy their very competitive price point.” Says Banyan: “Retailers are finding our range is selling strongly in the current economic climate, as customers look for individuality in their jewellery purchases and are shying away from heavily branded alternatives. Banyan continues to grow from strength to strength; proof that recession isn’t inevitable for the savvy buyer.”

Visit the stand to see how its fresh view on silver jewellery can work for your business.

Information: 01626 853 384, enquiries@banyanjewellery.co.uk or www.banyanjewellery.co.uk Stand: QS 13

­­Paradise Jewellery is introducing Natura – “intricate, superbly crafted designs, inspired by and reflecting nature.” The designs consist of combinations of matt and polished silver, silver with 18 carat gold, and matt gold vermeil. Paradise Jewellery has chosen finely faceted semi-precious stones, including the more unusual aquamarine and iolite, with many designs “reminiscent of historic opulence”. The comapny adds: “These timeless pieces are a refreshing alternative to branded ranges and a worthy addition to any jewellery collection.”

Information: 0117 377 4280 or www.paradisejewellery.net Stand: C 9

±±Midhaven will be showing its largest range of Tribal Steel yet, with the collection of real leather friendship bracelets now over 150 styles strong. “For Harrogate we have new lines and colours, plus a selection of XXL size bracelets, and many new all-stainless-steel styles will also be on view for the first time. All orders still carry the 90-day exchange policy, which means you can explore your market and maximise your sales at no risk,” says Midhaven.

Information: 01299 851 513, info@midhaven.co.uk or www.midhavensilver.com Stand: EJ 118

¯¯Thammarat Trading Ltd is a family-run manufacturer and wholesaler specialising in silver and marcasite jewellery. Based in the south east of England, the company has been operating for over 20 years. “We pride ourselves on supplying quality jewellery at great prices along with excellent customer service,” it says.

Information: 01702 525 530, info@thamtrading.co.uk or www.thamtrading.co.uk Stand: QS 19

July 2012

Jewellery FOCUS

Harrogate Home & Gift

­­Exotic Silver is exhibiting at the Harrogate Home & Gift Show for the first time, where it will be launching its latest collections of Celtic, shamballa and silver jewellery. “Our new shamballa crystal jewellery range has 18 colours mixed through bracelets, necklaces, pendants, earrings and rings,” says the company, which can also offer an exclusive ‘kids’ petite range’ in shamballa jewellery. Meanwhile, the silver jewellery collection consists of stoneset cubic zirconia stones in white and many colours. Visit the stand to view the latest three catalogues containing all of the current jewellery collections.

Information: 028 7035 4862, 028 7032 7851 or exoticsilver@hotmail.com Stand: EJ 56

®®An established jewellery designer working exclusively in anodised aluminium, Hazel Atkinson has selected Harrogate Home & Gift to launch new colours for autumn/winter. Developing a theme of tumbling leaves in glowing golden hews, powerful purples and rich reds, Hazel’s new lines evoke the mellow fruitfulness of the coming season. Light, durable and competitively priced, Hazel’s unique British handmade jewellery has proved to be a “winner with hundreds of independent retailers, galleries and gift shops at home and abroad.” A complimentary ring will be given with every order placed at the show.

Information: 0115 958 6183 or www.hazelatkinsonjewellery.co.uk Stand: QS 70

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July 2012

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Kids and teens

Focus on

children’s jewellery

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Naida Ally views the latest range of jewellery designs that are available as gifts or pocket-money-purchases for children and young teenagers

“A

s the purchasing power of young people exhibits continued growth, marketeers, manufacturers and advertisers have become increasingly interested in devising effective methods of reaching the young person’s market,” explain Barrie Gunter and Adrian Furnham in the book Children as Consumers: A Psychological Analysis of the Young People’s Market. They were not the first to examine the area and are not the last either – as Herbert Hoover, the 31st president of the United States famously said, “children are our most valuable resource” – and the potential of children as consumers is something that has been explored by many in the retail sector.

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In recent years, the jewellery industry has re-imagined its approach to the market. Kit Heath, for instance, started offering children’s jewellery five years ago. Chief executive Jeff Lancaster described a “strong growth” that had “continued from the first launch here in the UK.” And while children’s jewellery has long been in existence, there has been a progression in terms of what is on offer in response to demand. Jeff adds: “Classic christening jewellery remains popular, but there is movement towards jewellery with colour and personality, sometimes reflecting the adult women’s market.”

Jane Nead, of Jane’s Jewellery and Bead Bar, took the leap to designing jewellery for children and teenagers

relatively recently, alongside a City & Guilds course in jewellery design and being a part-time PR consultant. She explains: “I have two teenage girls and I don’t think the choice is that great for them, which is why I started making jewellery for them and their friends in the first place. I struggled to find quality jewellery (ie gold and sterling silver) that was affordable and actually relevant to children and teenagers.

“When designing for children, I think you have to consider their fickle nature. Children, and especially teenagers, are very likely to follow trends and fashions – certainly most of my 15-year-old daughters’ friends do – and this means that what’s ‘in’ now, may not be in a few months’, or even

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1 weeks’ time. So you either have to go with the trends and offer disposable jewellery – low price and on-trend – on the basis that it will probably be discarded for the next big thing, or you have to try and offer something that is generally liked or has timeless appeal, such as charm bracelets and name necklaces, but add your own twist that makes it relevant to the age group you’re targeting.

“For this reason I have two distinct lines – the first is a fun, affordable range of beaded jewellery that children and teenagers can buy with their spending money. The second line features name necklaces in sterling silver. Above all, you have to know and understand your market (and having two daughters makes this a great deal easier). Once you start selling it’s easy to work out what’s proving to be particularly popular, and it’s not always what you might expect! I am also finding that children, especially teenagers, love having something bespoke just as much as adults do; it just has to be affordable for them.

Last night, for example, my friend’s

Jewellery FOCUS

11-year-old daughter came over and chose a bracelet for herself and five others for friends who have birthdays coming up. She spent a long time choosing the right colours and types of bead for each friend and then chose a clasp for each and a colour for the spacer beads. She was so excited that she could buy them such a personal present each and they all fell within her mum’s present budget. She paid for her own bracelet out of her pocket money and loved the fact that she could design it herself.”

Whilst it’s one thing to harness the right product and price, there is still the issue of marketing to reach maximum clientele. Vicky Leyshon, head of design at Gecko Jewellery, comments: “As with the designs, the marketing has to appeal to both children and the people buying it.

For our marketing we created a strong brand identity with bright, fun colours

that we use in the packaging and point of sale displays and any other marketing materials, which make a strong, colourful statement.”

Jane agrees: “In terms of marketing the products, I think you have to aim at both the children and the adults. I use Facebook to post my new designs and provide pictures of all of the beads that are available. People can then order something that is already made and featured on the page or they can contact me and order their own creation. A lot of orders come via my daughters from friends at school – the best form of marketing is having them wear the jewellery, as it is then seen by their friends. I’ve also had a lot of orders from mums who need to buy presents, so I do think it is worth marketing to adults as well.”

Offering a collection of sterling silver children’s jewellery, Curteis Limited’s ranges are designed with “cute and colourful” charms for the younger child, or charm necklaces with birthstone features for the more on-trend teenager.

This collection includes ID bracelet designs, enamelled charm bracelets and bangles with matching pendant

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Kids and teens

and earring sets, charm pendants with Swarovski crystal beads and sterling silver heart pendants and bracelets with birthstone features. This jewellery range provides a distinctive collection suitable for children of any age and on any occasion. In addition, Cuteis, which is based in the UK, offers a lifetime manufacturing defect guarantee and an exclusive no minimum order service on many of its products.

Another range with offerings in the children’s jewellery market is Gecko’s D for Diamond, which is celebrating its 10th birthday by revamping its packaging, point of sale displays and branding imagery. “The new look is a little more sophisticated, but without losing the child-like charm of the original branding,” says Gecko’s Barry Bennett. The new look was unveiled earlier this year at the Jewellery Show.

“We’ve presented the new concept to some of D for Diamond’s top stockists and they loved it! We are really looking forward to showing it to all of our customers,” he adds.

Introduced at the Harrogate Home & Gift show last year, Kali Ma Designs’ range of Ruby B. children’s jewellery is described as a “fun and funky range, ideal for children from three years of age through to teens.” The range includes items with vibrantly coloured enamel party polka dots, hearts and strawberries; precision-cut sterling silver animal charms; alphabet and number charms; and a sparkly assortment of Austrian crystal studs and charms for little divas (and little monsters!). Each individual piece is packaged with its own branded Ruby B. bag and organza pouch.

“Children’s jewellery is becoming a well-established, yet ever-expanding market area where customers are looking for something a little different whilst preserving a competitive price. These stunning little pieces are available with a complete set of branded point of sale displays, presenting a very marketable and unique assortment to the retailer,” says Emma Perkins, managing director at Kali Ma Designs.

Announcing the recent launch of its silver/rhodium-coated and diamond collection for girls is Lily & Lotty. Each item from the collection is packaged in a luxury satin pouch, inside a ribbon-tied gift box. The collection includes pretty hearts, butterflies and stars, with each piece being hand-set with a real

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diamond accent. “These are the perfect gift for bridesmaids, christenings, birthdays and other special days,” says the company. Window displays are available to retailers free of charge with the opening order.

Paradise Jewellery’s children’s range includes crystal bracelets in a variety of colours, which come with a selection of silver charms – featuring kittens, ponies, puppies and more – that are detachable and can also be worn as pendants. “Little Wishes is an ideal gift to commemorate special occasions such as a new baby, a christening and birthdays. Presented in a lovely jewellery box decorated with butterflies, youngsters can treasure their Little Wishes and also add to their collection of charms,” says Paradise.

Nomination, the family-run Italian jewellery brand, has several collections suited to children, many of which are based on its bestselling Composable Link Bracelet. These include Kiki (enamel and stainless steel characters); Fantasia (colourful enamel Alice in Wonderland and Peter Pan links); Hello Kitty links; and the core Composable collection (with over 3,000 different links). Children can customise the number of links on the bracelet based on their wrist size, and can simply add additional links as they grow, which means that the bracelet grows with them.

“The Composable collection has always been popular among younger Nomination fans who like to spell out their name or feature sporting symbols and animals,” explains the company.

“The main difference with jewellery aimed at children is that it tends to be brighter and more colourful than collections aimed at adults.”

Nomination’s collections are made by hand in its workshops just outside Florence. The Composable collection is made using surgical quality stainless steel, which is hypoallergenic and does not tarnish. As far as the links are concerned, the 18 carat gold details are handmade and their sterling silver is rhodium-plated to prevent tarnishing. “Nomination designs jewellery that will out-last trends and fads and is passionate about creating high quality jewellery that will be treasured forever,” it adds.

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Curteis: 0800 195 6771 Gecko: 01376 532 3000 Kali Ma Designs: 01803 872 555 Lily & Lotty: 01752 492 750 Paradise Jewellery: 0117 377 4280 Nomination: 00800 2607 2007 Jane’s Jewellery and Bead Bar: 07931 134 925

July 2012

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WATCH FOCUS

Tissot was recently entrusted with the official timekeeping of the world’s premier motorcycle racing championship in its 13th consecutive year, and to mark the event, launched new watches dedicated to the sport. The Tissot T-Race MotoGP Limited Edition 2012 watches are available in two versions: quartz (pictured) and automatic. Both models display a dynamic black based strap with a yellow aerodynamic T-line that “races around the wrist,” with colours and a design inspired by MotoGP machines.

Information: 0845 296 2446 or www.tissot.ch RRP: £530 (automatic) or £650 (quartz)

Watch focus Swatch recently released its collection of 10 Lady Originals watches. The 2012 range offers a contrast to the stylish pastel hues used in last year’s collection, with colours this time around revealing an emphasis on eye-popping brights, as well as several other classic darker shades including pink, green, yellow, blue, orange, red, mint, purple, dark blue and black.

Information: 0845 296 2448 RRP: £32

All about “self-expression through colour,” the Vibe Collection was exclusively created by Appleson Agencies Ltd. The kaleidoscopic range of colourful products includes the innovative Vibe-Watches, which are fully-interchangeable. John Appleson explains: “The unisex interchangeable watches are available in both large and small sizes, generating an unbelievable 25 million different design combinations, and have been an absolute revelation with retailers reporting a fantastic consumer response and very strong sales.” Full retailer displays and in-store point of sale material support the ranges.

“There is no doubt that the Vibe stand at Harrogate will be colourful and definitely worth a visit,” adds John.

Information: 0113 294 1269 or john.appleson@ntlworld.com RRP: From £30 Home & Gift stand: DP1-55A

July 2012

Festina was recently named the Tour of Britain’s Official Timekeeper, as well as being the Official Timekeeper of the Halfords Tour Series and the Tour Ride mass participation events. For over 40 years, Festina has maintained a strong link with cycling. Tour of Britain commercial manager Alastair Grant commented: “We welcome Festina to the Tour of Britain and are delighted to have this prestigious brand associated with the tour events going forward.”

Information: 0207 405 5523 or sales@uniquejewelry.co.uk RRP: From £235 for rubber strap, or £285 for steel strap

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Industry

Commercial success This year’s KickStarters have just been announced, and Syreeta Tranfield gains an introduction to their latest collections and design inspiration

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ith retailers wanting to find out about the best new designers as they launch, each year the BJA runs the KickStart programme in association with IJL, to identify the talent of the future. There is a real excitement about this initiative, as the designers are of such a high standard and destined for excellent retailing careers. The 2012 line-up has literally just been announced so I looked into what is set to make these particular designers so commercially successful.

Imogen Belfield

Imogen creates fine jewellery in gold, silver, porcelain and gemstones. Her covetable pieces have already won the attention of celebrities, including Uma Thurman, Cindy Crawford and Jessie J! Imogen told me: “My jewellery is very much a British brand and British made. I utilise the amazing craftsmanship the UK has to offer, as well as sourcing many of the stones I use from the Natural History Museum.

I think the key to commercial success is being able to design innovative, forward-thinking designs for show – whether it’s for the catwalk or for editorial press shoots – and then creating a collection derivative of these statement pieces, with a commercial edge, whether it’s in the price point, design, material or size. It is crucial to be a reliable supplier for your clients and stockists. A good motto is ‘under promise and over deliver’.”

Mandana Oskoui

Graduating from Kensington and Chelsea College with a first class triple grade distinction and award for outstanding work, Mandana’s creations are inspired by the diverse formations, sequences and architectures found in minerals and rocks.

July 2012

Speaking about commercial success, Mandana said: “To be one of only a few selected for this prestigious show is a real honour. I ensure each item of jewellery I design and fabricate adheres to the highest levels of craftsmanship and design. My jewellery will not go out of fashion after a season or two and I think that is the reason it is so popular; all age groups can wear it, they are items that can be handed down through generations, and as a result they are easy and appealing pieces to purchase.

“Commercial success in jewellery is the end result of a number of design and business factors working together in harmony. For example, from a design point of view, a unique design concept and wearability are vital. From a business point of view, the jewellery needs to be affordable to the majority while at the same time offering a good profit margin to the designer/retailer.

Factors such as reviewing precious metals and gemstone prices as well as making costs are vital. Promotion and ease of production are also important factors, as is offering a bespoke service.”

Clarice Price Thomas

Clarice designs jewellery which combines her interests in machinery, movements, mechanisms and antiques, with an elegant design philosophy.

Her debut collection, Time, has been heavily inspired by the unseen inside clocks and watches. Her innovative style is sure to be key to her success.

Clarice Price Thomas

Imogen Belfield

Mandana Oskoui

Flavie Michou

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Industry

Quarter Angel

Prior to establishing Quarter Angel, Jessica Neil worked in some of London’s best open spaces, and the outdoors influences all of her pieces. The Skyline collection is inspired by the magnificent views of London seen from Hampstead Heath. Silver is photoetched, with oxidised detail creating a striking contrast with the matt silver. Pieces are also made in Perspex, where etching of this lightweight, tactile material is very effective at showing the intricate design details – the results are very unique. Quarter Angel’s new collection, with its mixed metals, sparkly stones and feathers, is an exciting departure from the neat, clean lines of the Skyline collection.

Ros Millar

Quarter Angel

Ros Millar De Anna Kiernan Lestie Lee

Ros designs and makes her own pieces, for example her organically inspired gold and silver cuttlebone cast jewellery. Her latest collection focuses mainly on black oxidised and rose-gold-plated silver stacking rings and neckpieces. The Black & Rose Growth Collection has been described as having a “glamorously gothic twist and a luxe edge.” She will also launch a new collection, Meteor, at the show.

De Anna Kiernan Annaloucah Fine Jewellery Lestie Lee Myia Bonner

Flavie Michou

At 15, Flavie attended the prestigious Boule school. She developed her skills in designing at workshops, making pieces for brands like Tiffany, Chanel and Cartier to name a few.

She has now left Paris to come to London. “I am confident in the jewellery that I produce, keen to get my new collections noticed, and have always been passionate about making jewellery that is both contemporary and unique,” comments Flavie.

Lestie specialises in sterling silver, gold vermeil with semi-precious and precious stones, and all of her pieces are handmade in London.

Her instinctive relationship with natural materials is unique. I spoke to Lestie about her work: “I believe that the point of difference in my designs is a culmination of my multicultural heritage; my rather unconventional sense of aesthetics and design; my passion for blending clean lines with functionality; and the outstanding natural beauty of precious stones.”

Myia Bonner

A recent graduate from Middlesex University, Myia’s delicate yet bold collections explore her interest in the traditions of diamonds. Myia re-interprets the most coveted stone and re-designs each cut to create her signature facet design.

Bermuda-born jeweller De Anna trained as a goldsmith from the age of 17, prior to studying architecture at Central Saint Martins. Influenced by the clean lines of modernist architecture and the elegance that the female form has to offer, the jewellery embodies a minimalist aesthetic with a focus on subtly framing the body. The signature free form lines and undulating surfaces create a bold look, drawing on the natural contours of the body, including a broad range of statement pieces.

Annaloucah Fine Jewellery

Working in Fairtrade and recycled precious materials, London-based designer goldsmith Annaloucah creates luxurious fine jewellery. She has participated in numerous high profile brand collaborations, and is now making her collections available to trade for the first time as she takes her brand in an exciting new direction.

I’m sure all of these designers are names we will come to hear often in the industry, judging by the commercial success of previous KickStarters.

For more information about International Jewellery London, please visit

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Platinum

Jeweller Solutions

Precious platinum

Main image: Johnson Matthey

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Although platinum has not been as widely accessible as gold and silver due to its price, it continues to be a metal of aspiration, especially within the bridal market, as Louise Hoffman discovers July 2012 

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Platinum

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ohnson Matthey’s recently released Platinum 2012 report revealed that gross platinum jewellery demand rose by two per cent in 2011, to 2.48 million ounces.

The precious metal has also showed resilience in terms of UK hallmarking figures – whilst the assay offices recorded falls of -29.4 per cent for silver and -24.1 per cent for gold in 2011, platinum remained at -10.3, and this year it has led the way in demonstrating some healthy ‘plus’ figures.

The growth in demand in 2011 was driven mainly by the Chinese jewellery trade, with the country’s demand reaching 1.68 million ounces; but European purchasing was also significant, remaining solid at 175,000 ounces.

While the report quite rightly highlighted the low consumer confidence in many parts of Europe, resulting in a decrease in spending on jewellery items, it seems that the bridal jewellery sector saved the day, and lower prices in the fourth quarter encouraged some consumers to ‘trade up’ from white gold to platinum for wedding and engagement rings.

For the average consumer, platinum is usually considered a marriage metal; its relatively high price places it on a pedestal – a goal to be reached – and perhaps makes it a more accurate reflection of such a special and valuable union.

But there are those who are determined to boost the metal’s reputation, desirability and accessibility on a much wider scale. Platinum Guild International (PGI), for example, is an organisation that was established in 1975 to “inspire a passion for platinum that ensures it is the precious jewellery of choice.” Its mission is to create, expand and strengthen consumer and trade markets, nurturing and promoting the desire for platinum jewellery, and providing information,

practical help and expertise to turn that desire into a sale.

I ask PGI’s UK manager Ruth Donaldson why she and her organisation feel so passionately about platinum, and she replies: “We feel it has a real emotional resonance with the UK bridal consumer, and if you look back into platinum’s heritage, it was really the first fine white jewellery to redefine how jewellery was being designed and what it was being worn for, and so everything that has come since is still trying to be ‘like platinum’. So we’re very proud of the metal we represent.”

“If you look back into platinum’s heritage, it was really the first fine white jewellery to redefine how jewellery was being designed and what it was being worn for”

When discussing non-bridal platinum jewellery, Ruth points to the increasing polarisation of the jewellery market as a key issue: “If you look at the top end of the market, Cartier’s high jewellery collections are still all platinum, ditto Harry Winston; a lot of Bulgari’s new white metal ranges; and the high-end collection that Shaun Leane has just launched with Asprey, so it’s still there.

But these days you’ve got some people picking up jewellery at the supermarket, and at the other extreme you’ve got people who have always invested a lot in jewellery and who are still demanding the best. This is the challenge for retailers: to price it in a way that’s going to be appealing to the customers, particularly when there is so much competition – a platinum cocktail ring is not just competing against a white gold or silver cocktail ring; it could be competing against a Prada handbag or an iPad or even a holiday!”

At the same time, however, the recent lower prices, as noted in the Johnson Matthey report, are proving hugely attractive to the consumer. “Right now there’s a massive price opportunity, which is allowing consumers to access something that is genuinely rare and therefore genuinely precious, and for which the value will continue to climb,” says Ruth.

“If you’re looking to sell a white metal, this is the best opportunity that retailers have had in Brian Fulton a long while.”

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Supplying demand

Equally as passionate about the potential of platinum is designer and craftsman Brian Fulton, who established his company in 1990 to offer a fully comprehensive service to those seeking the luxury and durability of platinum in their own unique style.

“We use traditional skills and temper them with the latest technology to deliver a complete, cutting edge service, offering bespoke computer aided design and modelling, combined with in-house casting to deliver that individual edge,” Brian adds.

In terms of collections, Brian’s ‘Fresh’ is a progressive and innovative range of gem-set fine jewellery, which he says “encapsulates all that platinum symbolises with sophistication and innovation.” Designed and created in the Lake District, the range includes diamond rings in platinum, as well as palladium and 18 carat gold, which are complemented by plain or diamondset wedding bands, and dress rings, pendants and earrings. Meanwhile, the newly launched ‘Mountmaker’ range of mounts can be tailored to individual requirements on request.

XMC International Ltd is a specialist manufacturer of finished mounts, and its platinum range of semi-set and plain mounts provides the customer with a variety of design choices.

Different styles of semi-set mounts with various head shapes cater for all types of stones, including round, square, oval and emerald shaped stones, and XMC also has a large range of semi-set designs made specifically for fancy-cut stones, including pear, marquise and heart shaped stones.

“To accompany our vast range of mounts, we also provide diamond-set wedding and eternity rings in various shapes and sizes to match; as well as a large variety of earrings, pendants and bracelets to complement our existing designs,” the company adds.

When it comes to servicing and repair, Jeweller Solutions has been offering its platinum solutions service to the trade for eight years now, and is proud to be considered one of the top jewellery repair houses in the UK. “The platinum solutions service is a dedicated service for retailers, buying groups and workshops throughout the UK and Europe, providing the highest standards of platinum alterations and servicing, quickly and reliably,” the company explains.

“This dedicated service allows our retail clients to sell platinum items, knowing that there is someone in the background able to support them as

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Platinum

and when necessary. It also enables our workshop clients to offer a more rounded service to both retail and private clients.”

This year, Jeweller Solutions will also be exhibiting at IJL for the first time.

“It’s been a long time coming, but this way we get to meet lots of our valued customers and have the opportunity to meet new ones. We’re really looking forward to it,” says managing director Mark Dynes.

The future

Moving forward, the future looks bright for platinum. Johnson Matthey is confident of a successful 2012, with Jyoti Trivedi telling me: “We anticipate that platinum jewellery demand in Europe will remain robust this year. The number of UK-made platinum jewellery pieces hallmarked at the various national assay offices increased by almost four per cent year-on-year in the first quarter of 2012. This compares with a three per cent fall in gold jewellery hallmarking in the same period.

“Platinum remains a popular choice for wedding and engagement rings,

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and the recent price premium of gold over platinum has encouraged consumers to continue to trade up to platinum in some cases, for a smaller price differential than usual.”

Ruth Donaldson agrees: “It’s a really fantastic opportunity in the UK right now for platinum to increase its dominance in the bridal jewellery market, and for retailers to actually take back more of their share of the wedding budget.

“There is still hunger for high quality, and at the moment in this economy, the pound that lasts longest is the pound that is most valued – and what is more enduring than a platinum ring?”

XMC International Information

“In this economy, the pound that lasts longest is the pound that is most valued – and wh at is more enduring than a platinum ring?”

Brian Fulton: 01768 779 798, www.freshjewellery.co.uk or www.mountmaker.co.uk Jeweller Solutions: 0845 299 6022, platinum@jewellersolutions.co.uk or www.jewellersolutions.co.uk Johnson Matthey: www.platinum.matthey.com Platinum Guild International: www.platinumguild.co.uk XMC International Ltd: 0121 523 1028 or info@xmcworld.com

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A day at the Office

Melting

David Wilding and Russell Clinton discuss the processes and challenges that face them on a daily basis in the furnace room at the Birmingham Assay Office’s Laboratory

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avid Wilding and Russell Clinton are two expert melters, working in the furnace room of the Laboratory. They have both worked in the Jewellery Quarter in similar roles all their lives, and between them have 65 years of experience.

While the Laboratory boasts some of the most up-to-date induction furnaces, which can heat up rapidly using the lowest possible amount of energy, the procedures that the melters are following are centuries old.

Russell and David pride themselves on recovering the most possible precious metal from a melt and producing a bar that is smooth and free of air bubbles. Experience and instinct are everything and talking to them about melting is reminiscent of talking to an expert chef about how to create a perfect gourmet dish. Control of the temperature, careful addition of the right ingredients at the right time, and

July 2012

attending to the mixture throughout the process are all crucial.

As with all procedures at the Birmingham Assay Office, the first vital step to a melt is visual inspection by an expert. No two melts are the same and one melter will always take responsibility from start to finish, to ensure that he or she spots any peculiarities. The initial assessment will identify the level of non-precious metals present, including items that may contain pitch or iron, or sometimes even pennies to add to the weight of the product. This will determine the temperature at which the melt is initiated, the addition of the appropriate melting flux, and the percentage of precious metal contained in the melt, providing an important ‘sanity check’ when the bar is assayed. The melt is also checked for items that are likely to explode such as watch batteries and lighters, which are carefully removed.

The high price of silver over the past year has driven a significant increase in the number of silver melts and care must be taken to identify modern silver, which could contain cadmium, a dangerous element when vaporised.

Any suspect item would either be tested by XRF prior to melting, or a tiny sample would be tried first, with the melter carefully watching for the tell tale thick yellow fumes which immediately appear. If cadmium is found to be present, the batch will be rejected, due to the potential harm to human health.

Some batches of scrap are very ‘dirty’. This is not necessarily in the literal sense, although they may contain floor sweepings and other

Jewellery FOCUS

A day at the Office FOCUS ON THE EXPERTS

“People think we just stick it all in the pot and walk away, but it’s just not like that” residues from manufacturing; more commonly batches of scrap contain high quantities of non-precious materials such as stones and glass, or functional components such as springs and internal watch workings, which are more likely to be steel. In this case the melt may have to be run twice – sometimes three times – in order to fully separate the precious from the non-precious metal.

Once the batch has been assessed it is approved for melting. This takes place in a graphite pot. Pots are kept separate for different metals and finenesses to avoid any contamination, however small.

The content of the scrap determines the initial melting temperature. That which is ‘dirty’ or contains significant levels of iron will be melted initially at a lower temperature – around 950 degrees – to allow the melt to take place more slowly, and then the iron can be collected by skimming it off the surface. The non-precious metal elements, including stones and base metal, rise to the surface and the colour and consistency of the surface of the melt provides important information to the experienced melter.

Such melts will have melting fluxes added to achieve a cleaner result.

Fluxes assist the binding of the metals, absorb some of the unwanted elements and assist the flow, leaving both the bar and the melting ‘pot’ cleaner. Once the melt is considered homogeneous, a ‘dip’ sample is taken from the centre

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of the molten metal by drawing it up a glass tube. This is the most accurate method of sampling, as it takes a representative sample from the centre of the pot as opposed to drilling a piece from the finished bar.

When asked about adding fluxes and pouring the metal, David and Russell descend further into expert ‘chef ’ mode. They have already explained the dangers of producing “Swiss cheese”, referred to as very porous, if the temperature is raised too rapidly.

Now they gesture with their hands to describe the quantity of flux required, which depends on how the melt is behaving, and reiterate how important the control of temperature is.

Having achieved a homogeneous melt it is then necessary to increase the heat to achieve a ‘pouring’ temperature so that the molten metal can all be poured into the warm mould before it starts to solidify. This will vary according to the size of the melt and the elements it contains, so it is once again a matter of judgement. The induction furnace includes the technology to do this automatically, but Dave and Russell also use their own skill and judgement to achieve a smooth, homogeneous bar with the smallest amount of air bubbles.

Watching them pouring the melt, shimmering at a temperature well above 1,000˚C, it is easy to understand why they want to be in complete control. As Russell says, “people think we just stick it all in the pot and walk away, but it’s just not like that.”

Listening to the pride and obvious enthusiasm of these two experts it is very apparent how important the experience is to the quality of the melt, in terms of both recovery of precious metal and the quality of the bar.

David Wilding and Russell Clinton

David Wilding and Russell Clinton have worked in Hockley’s Jewellery Quarter for 36 and 28 years respectively. Their involvement in many different methods of refining and melting at international names such as Johnson Matthey and Cookson Precious Metals has given them a wealth of experience. Their longstanding working relationship has created a sense of team work where two heads are certainly better than one.

The Birmingham Assay Office was founded in 1773 to provide a hallmarking facility to the rapidly expanding local silver trade. Over nearly 240 years it has become established as the largest UK assay office. During the past decade it has expanded its services further, far beyond its statutory assaying and hallmarking duties, and offers independent expert opinion and training on every aspect of the precious metal, jewellery and gemstone trade.

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TAKING STOCK

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Curteis is introducing its new designer Filigree Orb Pendants, available in four designs and crafted in filigree.

Presented on an adjuster chain, each sterling silver orb is 3D in shape, with the choice of a flower, heart, star or teardrop design. “The new collection boasts style, quality and, as usual, has excellent, well-planned price points, making an ideal gift for any occasion,” says Curteis.

Information: www.curteis.com

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Karma Jewellery’s vintage-styled timepieces are some of the company’s best sellers. Designed to look like heirlooms, the timepieces have fully-functional clocks, and, as the company explains, “pressing the buttons to open the watches is a key part of their charm.”

Information: 028 9047 3483 or www.karma-jewellery.com

Takin Taking Based in Germany, Tezer ­­

specialises in sterling silver jewellery, with many pieces also available in gold plate. The company’s collection comprises necklaces, bracelets, pendants, earrings and rings.

Information: 07774 928 045 (Sharon Acton)

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Ian Dunford Ltd, the Leeds-based jewellery wholesaler and distributor, has launched its new 2012/13 catalogue. Over 3,600 lines feature in the catalogue – the most extensive the company has ever produced – and it includes many retailers’ traditional core products in both nine carat gold and silver, as well as a number of new lines. “The catalogue features the largest range of silver lockets, charms, bangles, crosses, St Christophers, earrings and pendants offered by any wholesaler in the UK and Ireland,” the company says. The Diamond Fascination Collection (pictured), a range of silver diamond jewellery new to the UK market, also launches in the catalogue.

Information: 0113 246 1656 or sales@iandunford.com

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TAKING STOCK

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CH Dahlinger offers a range of trays and cabinets to assist with the presentation of items of jewellery to the customer. From counter top rolls, to presentation trays, through to cabinets, most items can be tailored to show off stock in such a way as to complement existing colour schemes and furnishings. New for 2012 are two styles of cabinet in mid-wood with anthracite inserts that can sit alongside bespoke items. A catalogue is now available.

Information: 0049 7821 289 183, 01473 620 720 or info@dahlinger.com

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Charms UK is launching a new collection of Candy Bling bracelets for summer 2012. The Candy Bling collection comes in a variety of colours, picking up on this season’s trends, and includes over 400 bracelets, necklaces and earrings created in sterling silver with cz, crystal, pearl, hematite and silk cord.

Pictured is a tiger’s eye and crystal Candy Bling bracelet.

Information: 0117 968 3979

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“Presentation is key to retail success and nowhere more so than jewellery retail,” says Profile Interiors. “We are committed to delivering your vision for the finest display of products, with highly skilled craftsmen to produce and install furniture and fittings of the highest quality in a multitude of materials and finishes.” The company’s client list includes Links of London, Simon Carter’s upmarket accessories store in Mayfair, and Wentworth Golf Club, where it manufactured and fitted the trophy display cabinets, including the World Match Play Trophy cabinet. Profile is interested to hear from retailers, designers and architects to discuss any projects they can help turn into reality.

Information: 01237 471 711 or www.profileinteriors.com

¬¬

Sunshine Exim has been supplying fine jewellery to wholesalers, manufacturers and retailers for over 20 years. Over these years, the company has become known for making quality items that range from classical and contemporary designs to custom-made pieces of jewellery.

Sunshine Exim says its main aim is to continue supplying fine jewellery to its existing clientele while also entering into new long-term partnerships with wholesalers, manufacturers and retailers. A large selection of diamond eternity rings are available from stock and custom-made pieces can be supplied within three weeks after final approval.

Information: 0207 242 9299, sunshine@dircon.co.uk or www.sunshineexim.com

Jewellery FOCUS

July 2012

45

46

SELLING

The demonstration Brad Huisken moves on to the next stage of the selling process, explaining why establishing value is key to a successful sale

T

his month we will examine the process of showing and demonstrating merchandise.

The demonstration phase is your first opportunity to show your customer the features and benefits of the jewellery. During this phase, you will be presenting the jewellery to the customer using the knowledge you gained in the needs assessment step.

The goals of the demonstration stage are: 1. Establish value 2. Create desire for ownership 3. Have your prospects say: “I’ll take it.”

Va l u e , q ui te si mp l y, i s pe rc ep ti o n , an d e v e r y o n e h a s a d i fferen t pe rc e p ti o n o f val ue July 2012

In order to get your prospects to say “I’ll take it”, they must feel that your product is more valuable to them than the money they are using to pay for it. I would be willing to bet that 99 per cent of products that are bought and sold are initially perceived as too expensive by the prospects, and we must assume that everything is perceived as being too expensive until ‘value’ has been established.

Many salespeople don’t understand the true meaning of the word value.

Some believe that it is the price one has to pay in relation to the worth of the jewellery. However, this is only half of the answer – value, quite simply, is perception, and everyone has a different perception of value. The value that I hold for £100 is totally different from the value my youngest son has for the same £100. As salespeople, we must sell based on the customers’ perception of value; not ours.

In order for any sale to be completed, value has to be established.

Once value has been established, you will need to establish added value, which can translate to ‘desire for ownership’. Desire for ownership

is created throughout the entire demonstration process, and in the jewellery business is most likely to be based on the emotional reason that the customer is buying. Some buy jewellery to show love; others commitment, status, adornment, prestige or a number of other emotional reasons.

While trust is very important in the selling process, the primary reason that people buy is that they find value in the product. Trust is the added benefit necessary to create a repeat or referral customer. In many situations, people will trust the brand, the merchant, or the name recognition. However, without value, the chance of a sale being completed is slight. Look at any mass merchandise store in the country – the clients of these stores find value in the merchandise, and probably trust the retail company; however, I don’t necessarily believe that as prospects we trust the people in these stores enough to consider them our personal salespeople. For example, it is rare you will ever see the same salesperson on any two visits to a department store.

This is not the type of selling relationship that I am encouraging you to create. What I am suggesting is that you create a selling situation where the client will trust your integrity, and find value in your products based on that trust. In today’s retail environment, we can’t rely on the products to sell themselves. The reason most of our positions exist is that, as salespeople, our job is to convince our clients that buying our products is of value to them. Whether you sell financial services, business products or services, real estate, insurance, automobiles, furniture or home products, it is your job to create value in your prospects’ view of your products and services, and to sell those products and services. The only way we will successfully fulfill our

Jewellery FOCUS

SELLING

job responsibility is through creating and establishing value in our products through a successful demonstration.

It is during the demonstration when a salesperson should be at his or her best, yet I frequently see lazy, unenthusiastic, unmotivated demonstrations. I see demonstrations that are solely based on the technical aspects of the jewellery; salespeople giving benefit-based presentations; and just an overall weakness in the demonstrations. For example, I was recently shopping at a local furniture store. My wife and I walked in, were greeted with a “can I help you?” by the salesperson, to which I replied that we were looking for a sofa.

The total process of his initial contact, needs assessment, and demonstration took less than 10 seconds. He walked us over to the section of the store where the sofas were on display, and said:

“Here they are. Do you see anything that you like?” Do you think he said everything I needed to hear to spend over £1,500?

Years ago, I came across a podiatrist in the shoe business by the name of Dr William Rossi, who stated in his book: “If you give the shoes a reason for being, you will give your customers a reason for buying.” Think about this statement – it holds true with any product or service that is bought and sold on the planet.

This is what we will concentrate on during the demonstration phase, giving your customers a reason for buying: creating and establishing the value, based on the customers’ perception of value; establishing the desire of ownership; and getting our prospects to say those three magic words – “I’ll take it!”

“ If you give t he [ produ c t s] a reason f or being, you will give you r c u st omers a reason f or bu ying”

Author, trainer, consultant and speaker Brad Huisken is president of IAS Training and authored the books and . He developed the PMSA Relationship Selling Program, the PSMC Professional Sales Management Course, the Mystery Shoppers Kit, the Employee Handbook and Policy & Procedures Manual, and the Weekly Sales Training Meeting series, along with aptitude tests and proficiency exams for new hires, current sales staff and sales managers, and the new Weekly Internet Sales Training Series. In addition, he publishes a free weekly newsletter called Sales Insight. For a free subscription or more information, contact IAS Training on 001 800 248 7703, or

Jewellery FOCUS

July 2012

47

48

DATA

Prices • Figures • Outlook Retail sales volume: April 2012 In April 2012, all retail sales values increased by 0.4 per cent when compared with April 2011. This is the slowest rate of growth since January 2010 when sales values were also 0.4 per cent higher compared with a year ago. Sales volumes in April 2012 decreased by 1.1 per cent when compared with April 2011, which is the largest fall in growth since August 2011 when sales volumes fell by 1.2 per cent.

Store price inflation slowed to 1.7 per cent, which is its lowest rate since November 2009. The Consumer Prices Index slowed to three per cent in April, from 3.5 per cent in March. Two of the main drivers for the year-on-year decrease in sales volumes came from the predominantly food sector and predominantly automotive fuel sector.

In the four-week period of April 2012, the total non-seasonallyadjusted value of spending in the retail sector was an estimated £25.9 billion, compared to £32.6 billion in the five weeks of March 2012 and £26.1 billion in the four-week period of April 2011. The average weekly non-seasonally-adjusted value of spending in the retail sector was estimated to be £6.5 billion. The predominantly non-food store sales volumes in April 2012 rose by 0.8 per cent compared with the same time in 2011, while the value of sales increased by 0.2 per cent. Average prices showed deflation of 0.4 per cent in the year to April 2012, as opposed to 0.5 per cent price inflation in the year to March 2012.

The estimated average weekly sales in April 2012 were £2.6 billion, and of this, 7.3 per cent of sales (£190.6 million) were made via the internet.

Internet sales are now estimated to account for 8.5 per cent of all retail sales values, excluding automotive fuel. The average weekly value of internet sales in April 2012 (non-seasonallyadjusted) is estimated to be £489 million, up from £485.4 million in March 2012. All non-food sales account for 41.4 per cent of Source: ONS internet retailing.

Metal Prices £/Unit

Apr 12

May 12

Jun 12

% Change

Sterling Silver £/Kg

597.50

549.69

549.76

No Change

Gold £/g

33.32

32.35

33.27

Plus 3%

Palladium £/g

13.05

12.92

12.87

No Change

Platinum £/g

32.68

30.43

30.04

Minus 1%

Rhodium £/g

28.14

27.61

26.02

Minus 6%

Iridium £/g

22.01

21.65

22.58

Minus 4%

Ruthenium £/g

2.35

2.30

2.40

Minus 4%

Scrap Metal £/Unit

Apr 11

May 12

Jun 12

% Change

Sterling Silver Scrap £/Kg

561.00

516.11

516.18

No Change

9ct Gold Scrap £/g

12.06

11.71

12.04

Plus 3%

14ct Gold Scrap £/g

18.81

18.26

18.78

Plus 3%

18ct Gold Scrap £/g

24.11

23.41

24.08

Plus 3%

22ct Gold Scrap £/g

29.45

28.60

29.40

Plus 3%

Platinum (95%) Scrap £/g

26.39

24.57

24.26

Minus 1%

Data supplied courtesy of Cookson Precious Metals. www.cooksongold.com All prices shown on this page enjoy indicative status only. Jewellery Focus and Cookson Precious Metals accepts no responsibility for their accuracy or for any use to which they may be put

Diamond prices Weight

G/VVS

G/SI

J/VVS

J/SI

J/I1

0.05 Carat

1,821

1,002

1,257

911

801

0.10 Carat

1,748

1,116

1,686

999

749

0.25 Carat

2,825

1,561

2,361

1,327

905

0.50 Carat

7,696

3,471

4,904

3,018

2,565

0.75 Carat

9,470

5,682

6,192

4,225

3,351

1.00 Carat

16,718

8,851

11,151

7,165

4,636

The table above has been prepared by SafeGuard and is an average of the retail selling prices of round brilliant cut diamonds per carat including an average retail markup and VAT. There is no allowance for the mount but the prices have been taken from mounted goods prices. The table is also compared with International diamond prices for additional accuracy.

Compiled at 1st June 2012 / Dollar Exchange Rate 1.5375

July 2012

Jewellery FOCUS

DATA

Hallmark figures - May 2012 Month May 11 Month May 12

Variance

%

Silver 999 958 925 800

1,453 508 410,706 3 412,670

2,038 1,675 369,270 5 372,988

585 1,167 -41,436 2 -39,682

40.3 229.7 -10.1 66.7 -9.6

23 2 27,487 64,641 3,396 197,793 293,342

54 19 38,186 78,904 4,657 260,464 382,284

31 17 10,699 14,263 1,261 62,671 88,942

134.8 850 38.9 22.1 37.1 31.7 30.3

15 19,254 7 3 19,279

1 23,192 5 17 23,215

-14 3,938 -2 14 3,936

-93.3 20.5 -28.6 466.7 20.4

11,237 1,495 12,732

133 11,627 3,860 15,620

133 390 2,365 2,888

100 3.5 158.2 22.7

738,023

794,107

56,084

7.6

Gold 999 990 916 750 585 375 Platinum 999 950 900 850 Palladium 999 950 500

Total

The hallmarking statistics for May 2012 show an improved picture, with the total number of units hallmarked by the four UK assay offices up 7.6 per cent compared to May 2011.

The total number of gold items hallmarked was up 30 per cent – a stark contrast to the negative numbers that have become commonplace over the last few years. Silver articles hallmarked in the month were down by 9.6 per cent, but both platinum and palladium hallmarking numbers showed positive increases compared to the previous year, with platinum up 20.4 per cent and palladium up 22.7 per cent.

Source: Birmingham Assay Office

Jewellery FOCUS

July 2012

49

July 2012

Jewellery FOCUS

Directory

AMBER JEWELLERY

ASSAYERS BULLION DEALERS

BESPOKE DESIGN SERVICES

BOXES, PADS & PACKAGING

BOXES, PADS & PACKAGING

ASSAYERS BULLION DEALERS

CAD/CAM BARCODING, LABELLING & PRINTING

BOXES, PADS & PACKAGING

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July 2012

51

Directory

52

CASTING

CASTINGS & FINDINGS

CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY

DIAMONDS

DIAMONDS

CHARMS

CLOCK DISTRIBUTORS

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DIAMOND & JEWELLERY CERTIFICATE

DIAMOND SETTINGS

DISPLAY CABINETS & COUNTERS

DIAMOND SETTINGS

ENAMELLERS

ENGRAVERS

DIAMOND MOUNTS

DIAMOND SETTINGS

GEMSTONES

ENGRAVERS

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Directory

54

GEMSTONES

Jeweller (Dec 09):Jeweller (Dec 09)

12:38 ler (Dec Page 09) 14 24/11/09

12:38

CP2636 Jeweller (Dec 09):Jeweller (Dec 09)

GEMSTONES

24/11/09

12:38

GEMSTONES

JEWELLERY EQUIPMENT

Page 14

Page 14

24/11/09

12:38

Page 14

JEWELLERS TOOLS

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS

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JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS

JEWELLERY REPAIRS

PHOTOGRAPHIC EQUIPMENT

55

RING SIZE GAUGES

F O R

R I N G S

T H A T

F I T

PACKED IN COLOUR INSTRUCTION ENVELOPES

“Can you afford to leave one out of your mailing?” www.multisizers.com Tel 01481 253244 SCRAP PURCHASE PEARLS, CULTURED JEWELLERY POLISHERS

PHOTOGRAPHY

SECURITY

JEWELLERY REPAIRS

RESTRINGING

PERSONALISED JEWELLERY

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Directory

SHOPFITTING

SIGNET RINGS

WATCH REPAIRS

WEDDING RINGS

Repair Services SILVER JEWELLERY

Is your Rolex watch bracelet stretched and worn?

bqw rolex specialist

At BQ Watches we can make it look brand NEW

We now specialise in the repair and refurbishment of Gold Rolex Watch Bracelets

Call now for a FREE Quotation

020 8731 2566 www.bqwatches.com

NOTICEBOARD WEDDING RINGS TROPHIES & MEDALS

RECRUITMENT

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01206 767 797 July 2012 

Jewellery FOCUS

Your Views

Voice

onthe

highstreet

Ian Middleton, director,

and FIONA MAWSON, creative director/buyer, Argenteus Jewellery Ltd How did you get into the jewellery business?

We started selling jewellery at Greenwich and Camden Markets as a way to get some extra money after finishing college. It was hard work but a really good learning curve.

Our suppliers were often bemused as we’d only take silvercoloured costume jewellery and not buy gold, which was the most popular at that time. Our first venture into sterling silver was a £1,000 order with Andea in Portobello Road.

We came out of the showroom carrying it all in a brown plastic bag!

Argenteus has two branches – one in Covent Garden and one in Oxford. How long have they both been in business?

Oxford was the very first store and started in 1994, and we’ve been at Covent Garden for 11 years now. Our first Oxford store was 80 square feet – tiny, but we packed a lot of jewellery into it! Both locations have changed quite a lot over the years.

Since you first opened, what changes have you witnessed in the independent jewellery sector?

There weren’t many people selling silver jewellery on the high street when we opened our first store. You’d have to go to craft markets to see interesting designs, which of course was the background we had come from. But around 10 years ago everyone jumped on the bandwagon – from major supermarkets to the local petrol station. None of them did it very well in the early years; few of them could offer advice or additional services such as repairs or commissions as we have always done. Things have improved in recent years and there are many more specialists now, which seem to have got the right idea.

Recently, the rising silver price has meant that quite a few independent stores have reduced their silver ranges and moved more towards costume jewellery, whereas the larger multiples have moved towards more silver. We offer a small range of costume jewellery just to provide the price differential for our customers, but our main focus is still on our own innovative yet wearable pieces, as well as supporting a large range of British designers. I think there are too many jewellers these days who just rely on selling branded products and not enough who create their own style and offers.

Jewellery FOCUS

What is the price range of the items you sell?

Our prices range from £10 up to £500 as it’s the style we offer and not the price. We’ve had people buying a cheap pair of earrings to match an expensive necklace because they look good together. You don’t have to spend a lot to get a fantastic handmade piece of jewellery.

What is selling well at the moment?

We’ve recently seen a rise in sales of earrings of all shapes, sizes and budgets, which has been great. In the past these have been less popular as gifts due to the fact that they can’t be returned, but it seems this is less of a problem for people now. Our own branded ranges are also holding up very well, which is extremely encouraging for us. Providing the marketing support for your own collections is hard work but it pays off in the end.

Your website offers a ‘personal shopper’ feature.

What does this entail?

We sell a lot of jewellery for anniversaries, leaving presents and special occasions, and often people don’t know where to start to look. People gravitate to what they like, which sometimes isn’t a good start as everyone has different tastes.

Our personal shopper is for the people who need advice as to what is popular with a specific age group, and also which trends in colour are coming through. It’s transferring the interaction we have with our shop customers to the website, for customers who feel they would like our help.

It operates using a set of questions that customers answer to give us a starting point for suggestions about ranges or designs that might fit the bill for them. It also gives us the opportunity to suggest items that we may not yet have on the website, or perhaps even open a dialogue about them



July 2012

57

58

Your Views

commissioning a piece to be specially made by us or one of our designers.

Online shopping can be a bit of a detached experience, which can make it difficult to build a proper relationship with your customer. The personal shopper option is essentially a way of engaging with the online customer and letting them know there are real people behind our website who care about finding what they’re looking for and are generally available to help.

What, in your opinion, are the main problems faced by retailers today?

High fixed charges such as rents, rates and service charges are the most challenging elements of bricks and mortar retail today. There are some moves towards improvements in these areas but it’s painfully slow; meanwhile many good high street names are failing on an almost weekly basis. Parking in city centres is also a big issue and customers are thinking more carefully about planning shopping trips. Many of our customers are on a timed trip, which makes their shopping experience more fraught these days. They’re more likely to favour areas with free parking and easy local access.

Of course the internet is now also biting into the high street share of consumer spend to an ever-increasing degree.

It’s vital that all retailers pay attention to this aspect of their business. As the online and social media experience matures into one inter-connected channel, it’s simply not going to be enough to have a basic website, let alone no website at all. Online purchasing is not the only factor to consider – we find many customers look online first and then visit a store to complete the purchase. The internet is fast becoming the first point of call for customers and it’s going to become a dominant force in retail in the coming years, especially for smaller retailers where fixed costs are driving them away from real high street stores.

If you started all over again, what would you do differently?

We’d hesitate about going into shopping centres. Although the big malls were fantastic at first, with an eclectic mix of shops of all shapes and sizes, they all very soon seemed to tire of the smaller individual chains like us and squeezed them out in favour of the big brands with deep pockets.

Our business plan has always been to build long-term customer relationships and offer something new and inspirational. While many large malls say this is what they value, in reality it usually comes down to who will pay the highest rents. We look to establish stores that build long-term

July 2012

customer relationships whilst introducing new customers to our brand, and you can’t do that when the landlords are constantly moving the goalposts.

Many shopping centres these days seem to be full of the same stores, which is great if that is what you’re after, but if you’re looking for something out of the ordinary you generally won’t find it.

Do you have any plans in the pipeline for Argenteus?

We’ve just re-launched our website and we’re putting a lot of effort into that at the moment. In the current climate, we’ve become somewhat averse to the idea of opening any new high street stores, although we’re always open to the idea if a really attractive deal was to be on offer. We’re also considering the idea of introducing our ranges into department stores on a concession basis. We think the synergy between our more mainstream own-label ranges and an eclectic and individual selection of UK designer collections under our curation is something that would work well in those environments.

Jewellery FOCUS

Jewellery FOCUS

July 2012