Jewellery Focus August 2012 by Designed by Arthouse Publishing

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IJL preview issue: What does this year’s event have in store for visitors? Ensuring the continued popularity of silver jewellery in the face of high prices

Men’s jewellery: the latest in everyday and statement piece designs

editor's letter

Jewellery Editor Louise Hoffman

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Jewellery Focus

Editor’s letter I t’s that time again! As well as coverage of the latest industry news, trends and products in Jewellery Focus this month, you will find eight pages dedicated to the hotly anticipated International Jewellery London (IJL) 2012 event, which is held from the 2 to 5 September. After another tough year, but with a steadily improving picture, those of you who are planning a visit to this year’s show are no doubt interested to see what it has in store, in terms of features, seminar advice and trend showcasing, and also in terms of attendance – by visitors and exhibitors alike. Well, if event director Sam Willoughby’s enthusiasm is anything to go by, then I think we are all in for a real treat! In my interview with her on page 38, she reveals some of the highlights of the 2012 show, and also tells of the pleasure she gains from seeing IJL exhibitors go from strength to strength each year. “Stuart Moore was on a shared stand last year and is now on the high profile Boulevard on his own stand, showcasing his inspirational designs, [and] designer Imogen Belfield has gone from an up-and-coming Bright Young Gem, to a KickStart designer. It’s fantastic for me as the event director to see careers blossoming for exhibitors, and to know we have played a crucial part in that,” she says. Indeed, this is a sentiment I share with Sam, as I have been in the happy position of witnessing past Designers of the Month reach new milestones and enjoy new successes in their work. A perfect example of this is designer Matthew Harris, of Joseph Lamsin Jewellery, whom I met at last year’s IJL and interviewed for the November issue of Jewellery Focus. Just last month his jewellery adorned the pages of the magazine once again (page 12), in the announcement of his selection for the Goldsmiths Best of British collection, along with fellow designers Alexis Dove, Bobby White (another previous Designer of the Month!), Cinderela B, Daisy Knights, Laura Gravestock, Sonya Bennett and Skulls & Orchids. Let’s hope we see many more new careers launched, and existing careers strengthened, at Earls Court next month. With best wishes for August,

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IJL preview issue: What does this year’s event have in store for visitors? Ensuring the continued popularity of silver jewellery in the face of high prices

Men’s jewellery: the latest in everyday and statement piece designs

August 2012

CONTENTS

Jewellery FOCUS

August 2012 FEATURES Strength in silver

Louise Hoffman speaks to designers and suppliers operating in the silver market, to find out how they are ensuring the continued popularity of their jewellery in the face of high prices

Market momentum

IJL 2012 preview

Focus on pearls

High-end ecommerce

A remarkable, recession-busting success story, the menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jewellery market continues to grow and diversify. Jon Chapple takes a look at some of the latest designs Whet your appetite for this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s International Jewellery London (IJL) event with an overview of the highlights, as described by event director Sam Willoughby and a selection of exhibitors

With pearls having been the perfect accessory for the Roaring Twenties fashion trend, suppliers and designers are now adding a touch of festive glamour to their ranges Jonathan Ross of FACT-Finder looks at the changing attitudes to online retailing in the luxury jewellery market, and the steps retailers can take to capitalise on this shift

REGULARS Roundup

The latest news from the industry

Face to a name

Michael Hoare

Get acquainted with new and existing industry representatives Michael provides an update on the NAG and BJA joint ethics committee, which has been formed with the aim of simplifying the concept of ethical trading for those in the jewellery sector

Designer of the month

Naida Ally speaks to jewellery designer Stephen Einhorn, who created some of the awe-inspiring pieces that appeared in the recent Snow White and the Huntsman film

A day at the Office

Selling

Taking stock

Industry data

Watch focus

Voice on the highstreet

Debbie Cotterill and Linda Long, samplers at the Birmingham Assay Office, outline the rigorous tests that they carry out to ensure the safety of fashion jewellery New offerings from the industry Trends in timepieces

Continuing his series on the demonstration stage of a sale, Brad Huisken explains how to promote the features of a product to create value in the eyes of the customer

Derek Telles, managing director, Master Goldsmiths

ROUNDUP

In brief Lord Henley praises the Gold Standard

The Minister for Crime Prevention and Antisocial Behaviour Reduction, Lord Henley, has praised the Code of Conduct for the Purchase of Second-hand Precious Metals & Jewellery, which has been created to help protect jewellers and members of the public when dealing with the face-toface purchase of scrap precious metals. The voluntary code was created as a result of a collaboration between the National Association of Goldsmiths (NAG), the British Jewellers’ Association (BJA), the National Pawnbrokers Association (NPA) and the Surrey Police. Lord Henley said: “This initiative will really help to reduce the chance of jewellers unwittingly buying or selling stolen goods, and provide greater confidence to people who want to sell items on to trusted dealers. It is a good example of what can be achieved when business and police work together to cut crime in the communities in which they operate.”

IJL KickStarter lands prize at Treasure

Up-and-coming jewellery designer Lestie Lee has won the ‘Designer of the Year’ award at the recent Treasure event. Lestie, who scooped the coveted prize just a year after setting up her label, will now showcase her award-winning handmade designs at International Jewellery London (IJL) as one of the show’s ‘KickStarters’. Lee’s collection is inspired by her upbringing in both Hong Kong and London. Having trained at Central Saint Martins, she has worked with some of the biggest names in fine gems such as Adler, Buccellati and Jimmy Choo Couture. “I always like jewellery that has a story behind it and something that can be admired, similar to a work of art,” she said.

Jewellery craft&design award winners announced

This year’s craft&design Selected Awards saw Jesa Marshall win Gold in the Jewellery and Precious Metal category, based on an online public vote. The jewellery designer and owner of the Flux ‘n’ Flame Jewellery school clinched the award with her dark fairytale and folklore inspired work. PR and marketing manager at the British Jewellers’ Association (BJA) Lindsey Straughton, who was the judge of the award, said: “I am pleased to have selected Jesa Marshall as this year’s Gold Award winner. She not only produces stunning work but imparts her knowledge through her craft skill courses and has recently set up a new design partnership business ‘Evermore’.” The Silver Award winners were Craig Stuart and Julia Thompson.

Sheffield Assay Office celebrates UKAS accreditation

Sheffield Analytical Services, a division of the Sheffield Assay Office, has been awarded a United Kingdom Accreditation Service (UKAS) certificate for the 30th year running – making it the longest established UKAS accredited assay laboratory in Britain. Having been analysing precious metals for almost 240 years, the Sheffield Assay Office has since diversified into many other areas, such as providing independent assays for bullion companies, analysing minerals and healthcare products, and offering a variety of analytical services for the environment. Sheffield assay master Ashley Carson said: “I would like to congratulate the team for their hard work and express my pride in an unblemished track record that now dates back well over a quarter of a century.”

August 2012

Success for Birmingham Assay Office at Made Me Awards

The Birmingham Assay Office has achieved the accolade of being placed ‘runner up’ in the first Best Midlands Brands Awards. The awards marked the culmination of the first Birmingham Made Me Design Expo, an integral part of IDEA Birmingham, which is a massive collaboration spearheaded by Birmingham City University. The Design Expo was intended for businesses in the Midlands to showcase the range of innovation and design in the region. The shortlist, which included AGA, Aston Martin, Cadbury, Codemasters, Jaguar, JCB, Marmite, Paul Smith, Poundland and the Royal Shakespeare Company, was put to a public vote, with AGA placed first, and Codemasters and the Birmingham Assay Office placed a close second. Commenting on the Birmingham Assay Office’s success, chief executive and assay master Michael Allchin said: “Innovation, independence and integrity are what we have always been about, and always will be. The Birmingham Assay Office has invested heavily in high tech equipment and the highly skilled experts to use it. We would not have survived for over two centuries without continual innovation and in the current difficult trading conditions it is more important than ever. We are delighted and honoured to have been recognised in this way.”

Becky Dockree scoops ‘Emerge’ Award at Treasure event Jewellery designer Becky Dockree has won the Weston Beamor ‘Emerge’ Award at this year’s Treasure show. The competition was open to all exhibitors from the Emerge Gallery – aimed at companies that have been in business for three years or less. Dockree will visit Weston Beamor’s production facility in Birmingham as part of her prize, where she will work alongside its CAD team to develop her design into a fullyfinished piece in platinum. Not only this, but Weston Beamor has elected to use her design as its entry into this year’s PGI ‘Platinum Trail’ at International Jewellery London (IJL). Dockree, a former student of Fine Art at London Guildhall University, makes sculptural jewellery, and it was her Angel Wing design that caught the eye of the competition’s judges. Head of CAD and rapid prototyping at Weston Beamor, Ed Hole, said: “Becky’s design is extremely distinctive and very much of the moment. It has a real rock chic charm, whilst also having appeal to a wider, more sophisticated audience. We believe it will look wonderful in platinum and should create a real stir on the Platinum Trail at IJL.” Becky Dockree added: “I am enormously excited to have won and am very much looking forward to visiting Birmingham and seeing the whole CAD and rapid prototyping process in action. I feel sure that it will be fascinating and illuminating. “It is also great news that my piece is to be made into platinum. It’s a metal that all new jewellery designers aspire to work in and this will be a great beginning for me.”

Jewellery FOCUS

Image: A ceramic-strapped Rado Hyperchrome Chronograph watch.

ROUNDUP

Celebrity endorsement

Ceramic straps are ones to watch

Research company GfK has reported that ceramic watch straps have increased in volume by 47.3 per cent this year to date. The percentage figure increase relates to the comparison between sales from January 2012 to May 2012 with sales from the same period in 2011. Ceramic ranges are seen as an accessible luxury and a growing number of mass-market brands are noting the trend and releasing their own collections. Value-wise, ceramic watch straps have failed to grow at the same rate as volume. The market increased 10.2 per cent whilst average prices declined at -25.2 per cent. The watches market overall has increased 1.6 per cent in value, driven by department stores, mail order house channels and multiple jewellers. Account manager at GfK Leanne Whittaker said: “Swiss high-end brands are driving strong value increase due to increasing prices but volumes are falling. It is going to be difficult for the industry to keep maintaining this value growth if units continue to decline. This is why features like ceramic and chronograph are important; to keep consumers excited in new products and interested in investing in a new watch.”

Allum and Sidaway scoops two awards Allum and Sidaway has picked up two awards at this year’s South Wilts Business of the Year Awards – Best Retailer and the first Blackmore Vale Business of the Year Award. The Blackmore Vale Business of the Year Award recognises a business’s potential to have a positive impact on the economy. Managing director Jason Allum said: “We are absolutely thrilled to receive these awards. We believe that we have reached a pinnacle of success through hard work, outstanding achievements, expansion of locations and an investment in designer jewellery collections. To be recognised by these awards in our 70th anniversary year is an accolade for our success.”

Responsible Jewellery Council to review its Code of Practices The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has announced it will revise its Code of Practices (COP), the standard against which all of its members must be able to prove independently verified conformance of responsible business practices to achieve certification. Companies who join RJC operate in an array of sectors, from mining to retail, and in a wide range of geographies. Any business in the gold, diamond or platinum group metals supply chain is allowed to join and seek certification against RJC’s COP. At least three public comment periods will be held regarding the COP’s review, the first of which is open until 10 September 2012. RJC is inviting input from all interested stakeholders and has published a paper that outlines the process, scope and timelines for the COP review. A summary of the COP review can be found at: www.responsiblejewellery.com/files/Public-Summary-forRJC-COP-Review-260612.pdf

Rebecca Adlington wears Charms UK

Olympic gold medallist Rebecca Adlington is pictured here wearing a Charms UK Candy Bling bracelet. Adlington won two gold medals at the Beijing Olympics in 2008, breaking the 800 metre freestyle world record in the process. Her heroics resulted in a swimming pool and bar in her hometown being renamed in her honour, as well as an OBE. At just 23 years old, the hopes of the nation will once again be on her shoulders during this summer’s London Games. The Candy Bling collection contains over 400 bracelets, necklaces and earrings in a variety of colours and designs.

Industry taskforce launched to boost town centre retailing The British Council of Shopping Centres (BCSC) has set up the Distressed Retail Property Taskforce, with the aim of addressing issues such as physical degeneration, falling footfall, reduced investment and associated social decline in towns and cities across the UK. Officials from government departments will observe the group, which is being led by private sector companies including the British Retail Consortium and British Property Federation. Director of Hark Asset Management and chairman of the taskforce, Mark Williams, said: “Falling capital values and squeezed income streams have meant that many shopping centres and town centre retail properties now have a value significantly less than the level of debt held against them. Given current economic conditions, lenders are unwilling, or unable, to offload these properties and write off the debt, or to loan out more money to improve them. The negative knock-on effect on the wider area is physical degeneration and social decline.” The taskforce aims to identify the scale of the problem and pinpoint specific shopping centres and towns affected. It will also attempt to find out and rectify the problems behind property lenders’ or administrators’ inability to invest in or sell on the retail property assets.

Jewellery FOCUS

August 2012

ROUNDUP

Diamond market

The beginning of June saw the JCK Las Vegas show exceed expectations and the USA lead the market with steady but price sensitive consumer demand. Polished prices remained steady, though the RapNet Diamond Index (RAPI) for one carat was down 0.6 per cent in May. Mid-June saw the diamond markets under increasing pressure as Indian liquidity dried up and rough prices were too high in relation to those of polished. Though the US market remained stable, demand wasn’t sufficient enough to warrant the elevated rough price levels. Christie’s New York sold $14.6 million (£9.3 million), with the 22.46 carat E, VS2 diamond selling for $1.9 million (£1.2 million). It was revealed that Botswana’s diamond exports for April were down 42 per cent, while America’s imports slumped 17 per cent in the same period. Blue Star Group and Arjav Diamonds founder Vasantlal Laxmichand Mehta passed away in Mumbai on 17 June at the age of 82. As the month progressed, concerns over a global recession resulted in quiet activity. India remained problematic and reported that polished and rough exports in May were down 44 per cent and 20 per cent respectively. The plummeting rupee and government policy were destroying Indian demand heading into July. Polished prices came under more pressure at the end of June following a poor supplier response to the Hong Kong show, while US consumer confidence fell to a five-month low. Chow Tai Fook’s FY 2012 revenue was up 61 per cent to $7.3 billion (£4.66 billion) with a 79 per cent rise in net income to $847 million (£540 million). Rockwell Diamonds 1Q revenue revealed a 24 per cent decrease to $5.9 million (£3.76 million) as prices reduced 42 per cent.

Images: Monnickendam Diamonds

August 2012

ROX announces new £1 million boutique Scottish jewellery brand ROX has announced it is to invest £1 million to open its first Edinburgh boutique, creating 12 new jobs. ROX, founded by entrepreneurs Grant Mitchell and Kyron Keogh in 2002, currently has four stores across Glasgow and Edinburgh. Located in Edinburgh’s redeveloped Assembly Rooms, ROX’s fifth boutique will be a 2,500 square foot jewellery and watch destination complete with a Moet sponsored champagne bar. Award-winning interior designer Graven Images has been commissioned to lead the boutique’s fit, and work will begin on-site in September with the new boutique expected to be open in time for Christmas towards the end of October. One of the key features of the boutique will be its exclusive ‘Thrill Room’ private shopping lounge. The Thrill Room will be invite only and double up as a private consultation space, design studio and event space. Managing director of ROX Kyron Keogh said: “We have been looking for a great space in Edinburgh for quite some time now and we are really excited to be opening in the Assembly Rooms. Graven Images has come up with a cutting edge yet classic design that will offer a new customer shopping experience in the city.” ROX has won numerous awards in its first decade and was named Retailer of the Year at the Scottish Fashion Awards in 2011.

Edinburgh Assay Office helps SMEs create online retail presence Edinburgh Assay Office has launched a new ecommerce tool that allows independent jewellers to create a secure website in minutes. Designed specifically to meet the needs of small- to medium-sized enterprises (SMEs), the new ecommerce package has been developed in collaboration with Powa to help independents to capitalise on the growing online retail market. Assay master and chief executive Scott Walter said: “Growth in online jewellery sales now outperforms traditional retail sales growth by a considerable margin. Consumers in the UK spent £7.9 billion online in the last five weeks of 2011. Unfortunately the significant upfront costs of creating a secure ecommerce-enabled website means that smaller, independent jewellers captured only a fraction of those sales. “The Assay Powa platform provides all of the tools necessary to create your own website really quickly and easily, with no expert technical knowledge required and minimal upfront costs. The package includes domain name registration and email addresses; a website wizard to help create a fully customisable website in minutes; and a website hosting service.” The template also includes built-in search engine optimisation (SEO) tools and the ability to integrate with existing sites, blogs, social media feeds, direct mailing and stock inventory systems. This announcement comes hot on the heels of last month’s launch of the Edinburgh Assay Office’s ‘Assay Assured’ scheme – the first online consumer assurance scheme for the jewellery industry, allowing online jewellery retailers to prove they are accredited and working to a strict code of conduct centred around compliance with the Hallmarking Act.

Jewellery FOCUS

August 2012

ROUNDUP

Celebrity endorsement

Jorg Gray sponsors Alastair Rushforth

Premium watch company Jorg Gray has partnered with race driver Alastair Rushforth to assist in Alastair’s team’s development. National account manager for Jorg Gray, Nick Underwood, said of the venture: “The parallels between motor sport and watches are clear: precision, excitement and passion. “At Jorg Gray our key phrase is ‘define your time’ [and] we feel Alastair is the very personification of that phrase in his determination to make his mark on the world of motorsport.” Alastair is the lead driver and team principle for Alastair Rushforth Motorsport, which runs two MG ZR 160s and two MG Rover Metros. Alastair remarked: “I am really pleased to welcome such a premium watch brand as Jorg Gray to the team and look forward to working with them throughout 2012.”

In brief Batul Loomans visits Fable Trading

Founder of the Buddha to Buddha jewellery brand Batul Loomans visited the Bristol headquarters of UK distributor Fable Trading on 20 June. Dutch entrepreneur Loomans held a meditation session (for which he is renowned) with all of the staff in the office during his visit. He was inspired to create the company following a conversation session known as ‘Buddha to Buddha’ during a meditation holiday in India in 1997. “The pieces we create are designed to be timeless and appeal to all ages,” he said. “We believe in working hard but also having fun, and that ethos is expressed in the jewellery.” Director of Fable Trading Richard Morfoot remarked: “It was inspirational to share Batul’s outlook on life and hear about the creation of Buddha to Buddha.”

August 2012

RJC and Solidaridad unite for better gold-mining practices

The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) and Solidaridad have announced they will collaborate to ensure better practices throughout the gold supply chain. Solidaridad’s pilot project, which the collaboration is based upon, uses RJC’s Codes of Practice and Chain-of-Custody standard as tools for improving practices at industrial gold mines. Additionally, the collaboration aims to develop case studies, stakeholder presentations and evaluations that can strengthen the uptake and impact of the RJC’s standards. Focused on sustainable trade, non-profit organisation Solidaridad wants to use its project to test an innovative approach for decreasing the risks and increasing the benefits of industrial gold mining for both people and the environment. Using the RJC’s Codes of Practice, Solidaridad will provide guidance to the companies on setting targets related to the implementation of the RJC standards. Training and capacitybuilding will include topics such as human rights, community engagement, conflict resolution and environmental management. Companies’ engagement in meaningful community development is high on the list of priorities for Solidaridad. This entails, for example, supporting economically disadvantaged artisanal and small-scale miners in nearby communities to build fairer, safer livelihoods through training and technology transfer. RJC and Solidaridad will work together to share the outcomes of the project and use the lessons learned to strengthen the RJC system. The RJC’s Standards Committee will subsequently commence a review of the Codes of Practice, drawing on feedback and implementation experience. RJC director Fiona Solomon said: “RJC is pleased to collaborate with Solidaridad on our shared goals of advancing responsible practices in the gold supply chain. Solidaridad has been engaging with RJC in its standards development for several years and has made important contributions in the areas of responsible sourcing and mining standards. “The pilot project will take RJC’s standards to the small to medium scale industrial gold mining sector and help grow new approaches to responsible sourcing with these enterprises. “The jewellery supply chain as a whole benefits from pro-active multi-stakeholder efforts such as these and we look forward to working alongside all involved.” International co-ordinator for Solidaridad’s ‘Gold Programme’, Jennifer Horning, added: “We are excited about our new pilot project and look forward to working together with RJC and the companies that take part, including front-runner Minera Yanaquihua, to put the system to work and share the lessons learned with others.”

gpstudio teams up with Theo Fennell to create boutique concept store Retail design consultant gpstudio is to work with jeweller Theo Fennell to create a boutique store in Burlington Arcade. Dubbed a ‘micro-concept’, the one-off store will occupy a two-floor space which the designer will use for story-telling. gpstudio will create an environment where one-off pieces will be shown and the story behind each design can be demonstrated. Anything that inspired the work along with quotations, letters and book extracts will be shown alongside the jewellery, allowing Fennell to show how he creates his pieces, from inspiration to completion. Founder of gpstudio Gregor Jackson said: “The space that Theo has taken may have been, shall we say, compact, but that makes the design challenges it created even greater. We wanted to use the store to tell Theo’s story and to create a concept space that would take customers inside his mind.” Theo Fennell added: “As a designer I find working with likeminded people who share my vision vital to the approach that I take to retail spaces. Every piece we sell is something I have created, so our spaces are always a partnership.”

Image: Artist’s impression of the boutique.

Jewellery FOCUS

August 2012

ROUNDUP

Crown

jewel

TOWIE Twitter picture crashes Bobby White’s website A photo tweeted by Sam Faires from The Only Way is Essex (TOWIE) caused the Bobby White website to crash as hundreds of fans attempted to view it. Bobby was at Sam and Billie Faires’ boutique ‘Minnies’ to deliver the new True Love Pendants he had made for them, when the photo was taken and shared on Twitter by Sam. The website was inundated with people browsing and shopping the collection online and as a result it crashed for over three hours. Bobby said of the incident: “It shows you the power of social media and how important it is in today’s business world. It was only a picture – there were no links to my website – but people wanted to view and buy the True Love necklace Billie and Sam were wearing.” Thanks to the photo, the brand made more online sales in a single day than ever before, despite the three hour crash, and it has now moved to a more powerful server to handle the higher levels of traffic on the website.

Alfred Terry’s brilliant-cut diamond ring

The Alfred Terry crown jewel for autumn 2012 is a sophisticated round, brilliant-cut diamond ring. It forms part of the 1909 Origins Collection – a prestigious set of rings with meticulously crafted mounts – which is launching at IJL. The collection is described as celebrating the company’s long-standing British heritage, while honouring the importance and beauty of the mount. Handcrafted in the UK by Alfred Terry’s master model-maker, the ring gives a classic design a modern twist. Alison Smith, product development manager, sees it as a showpiece of the company’s design expertise. “The shank of the ring is beautifully rounded to give a reflective appearance from all viewpoints. The setting exposes the diamond to the best angles of light, and the visible culet below the gallery gives the ring a very feminine touch.” Available in platinum and 18 carat gold with H SI and G VSquality certified diamonds, the ring can be ordered from mid-August 2012. Information: www.alfredterry.com

August 2012

Birmingham wins Touchstone Award Birmingham City Council has become the winner of the Touchstone Award presented by the British Hallmarking Council, at the TSI annual Consumer Affairs and Trading Standards Conference and Exhibition in Manchester, in recognition of its innovative initiative in relation to hallmarking. The UK has one of the most rigorous hallmarking regimes, and with precious metal prices at an all-time high, the British Hallmarking Council is keen to encourage Trading Standards authorities to continue to enforce the legislation. The winning entry featured an exercise managed by Trading Standards officer Gary Singh, who has developed a long-term enforcement project targeting the Asian jewellery community in Birmingham where un-hallmarked and un-carated goods are frequently found. In 2011 a campaign targeted 21 Asian jewellers and 19 others. In total, 12 of the Asian jewellers were found to have non-compliant products and 104 articles worth £50,000 were seized. British Hallmarking Council member Robert Grice said: “Birmingham’s entry was first class. It detailed a wellplanned, long-term exercise, which is being regularly monitored to measure its success.” The award was presented by chair of the British Hallmarking Council’s Education and Enforcement Committee Mike Drewry and was received on behalf of Birmingham City Council by its head of trading standards Sajeela Naseer.

Jewellery FOCUS

August 2012

ROUNDUP

In brief Goldsmiths’ Company gives awards at New Designers 2012

The Goldsmiths’ Company recently gave two awards for excellence in jewellery and silver at New Designers 2012, as well as sponsoring the Jewellery and Precious Metalwork Zone at the event for the ninth consecutive year. To win these Goldsmiths’ Company awards, pieces have to show superlative design, originality and sales potential. Lorna Watson, creative director of Astley Clarke and awards judge, said: “There was a really strong show this year, with an encouraging mix of creativity, craftsmanship and commerciality, and Mairi Johnstone of Duncan & Jordanstone College of Art & Design was singled out for the Jewellery Award because of her ability to demonstrate a sense of whimsy and playfulness in tandem with strong making skills.”

Bremont opens Mayfair boutique

Bremont opened its first stand-alone store located on South Audley Street in London’s Mayfair area on 25 June. The boutique, which is set amongst other brands such as Purdey and Marc Jacobs, will showcase the Bremont collections as well as encompassing the heritage of the brand. Co-founder of Bremont Giles English said: “As a British company we felt we needed a showcase to promote ourselves to visitors from all around the world. The boutiqe will be more than a traditional watch store. There will be an explorers’ club based from there, a considerable watch library and it will also be the only place in the world to see unique items like the Bremont B-1 Marine Clock.”

Georg Jensen launches Fusion Ring Builder

Augmented retail specialist Holition has created an application for the launch of Georg Jensen’s Fusion Ring Builder. Developed by Holition’s partner, John Miles, the online tool allows users to activate a range of functions – such as selecting metal colour, the number of diamonds and the size of the diamonds – simply by a hand gesture, and thus allowing them to create their own unique ring. Chief executive officer of Holition Jonathan Chippindale said: “Holition’s collaboration with Georg Jensen provides a new way for luxury retailers to link the online/offline shopping experience and for consumers to interact with a product instore.” The Fusion Ring Designer allows users to ‘stack’ their own unique mix and personal style from a possible 4,000 combinations using up to four individual rings.

RJC certifies Rio Tinto

The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has announced that Rio Tinto has become the first mining group to achieve RJC certification. Headquartered in the UK and a Founder Member of the Council, Rio Tinto has attained certification following an independent audit. The certification covers its diamond mines in Canada, western Australia and Zimbabwe, as well as Kennecott Utah Copper (KUC), which produces gold and silver used in the jewellery industry. However the Bunder diamond project in India and Oyu Tolgoi in Mongolia have not been included within the audit because they are not yet in commercial production and don’t supply the jewellery industry. Rio Tinto has committed to the RJC that both projects are being developed in accordance with responsible ethical, social and environmental practices, which are themselves aligned with the RJC’s Code of Practice.

August 2012

Beaverbrooks’ top 10 Trollbeads sellers visit Fable Trading Beaverbrooks’ top 10 Trollbeads sellers recently visited Fable Trading’s Bristol HQ as part of a prize for their efforts in selling the jewellery. The 10 winners took part in a six-week competition launched by Fable Trading, the UK’s sole distributor of Trollbeads, to find the top salespeople from all 64 Beaverbrooks stores across the country. Working on a ‘points for prizes’ basis, the Beaverbrooks staff members with the highest number of points at the end of the competition period were invited to redeem them at Fable Trading’s offices by trading them in for Trollbeads. Overall winner Paula Handrea, of Beaverbrooks’ Cribbs Causeway store, was awarded a weekend for two in Copenhagen, the home of Trollbeads. Six of the winners were from the Cribbs Causeway store, with the four other winners visiting from Beaverbrooks in Norwich, Milton Keynes, Cardiff and Aberdeen.

Ring owned by Jane Austen sells for £152,000 at auction A ring owned by the famous novelist Jane Austen has been sold at auction for £152,450. The ring, which is set with a cabochon blue stone, sold for more than five times its original £30,000 estimate at a Sotheby’s auction on 10 July. In total eight bidders battled for the ring that was on sale for the first time; having remained in Jane Austen’s family for nearly 200 years. The winner was an anonymous private collector who bid via telephone. Sotheby’s manuscripts specialist Dr Gabriel Heaton remarked: “Jane Austen’s simple and modest ring is a wonderfully intimate and evocative possession. “The price achieved on 10 July, and the huge level of interest it has generated, is a remarkable testament to the author’s enduring appeal and her place at the heart of our literary and cultural heritage.” © Sotheby’s

Dates for your diary... 2 – 59September10

Autumn Fair International NEC, 16 Birmingham 17 www.autumnfair.com

2 – 5 September

International London 30 Jewellery 31 Earls Court 2, London

www.jewellerylondon.com

1214 – 1813 September 14

Fashion Week 19London Somerset 20 House, London

www.londonfashionweek.co.uk

13 – 14 October

J’adore Jewellery Fair 5 3 and Silversmithing 4 Putteridge Bury House, Putteridge, near Luton

www.romorexhibitions.co.uk/jadore_october.html

Jewellery FOCUS

August 2012

face to a name

Three minute

interview

Face to a name Get acquainted with new and existing industry representatives

New beginnings for XMC International

Graham Stock,

managing director of Lily & Lotty Describe yourself in three words Intuitive, diligent, stylish.

When you were at school, what did you want to be and why? A professional footballer – I achieved an apprenticeship at Norwich FC, but sadly no further.

How did you get to be where you are today?

Fate, risk-taking, attention to detail, and the ability to plate-spin. My business is multi-faceted: expanding the Lily & Lotty brand; acting as a consultant to well-known brands within the jewellery industry to advise on all aspects of sourcing products, packaging and displays; and guest presenting for Clogau Gold on QVC all keep me extremely busy, but the key is to learn and grow from every project.

Which aspects of your job do you most enjoy and why?

The constant variety; travelling the world and experiencing new cultures; and never knowing what tomorrow will bring.

What is your proudest achievement?

The launch of my own brand ‘Lily & Lotty’ and our opening launch at IJL in 2011. My wife and I created the niche collection with instantly recognisable branding, featuring our three beautiful daughters – a real family effort.

What is the best advice you’ve been given in life or work?

“Assumption is the mother of all f--- ups.” Having dealt with the Far East for many years I have to acknowledge these were sage words from a former mentor.

What is your next goal in life?

To take the Lily & Lotty brand to the next level by increasing our retail stockists from 50 to 150; and to exhibit in Hong Kong and launch into the Asian market.

August 2012

XMC International Ltd is now rebranding to River Mounts Jewellery, marking a turning point for the ever-growing company. Manoj Parmar, design and operations manager at River Mounts Jewellery, is one of the new additions to the company, bringing with him 17 years of experience within the jewellery trade. Having graduated from the School of Jewellery in Birmingham, he went on to work in many different fields within the jewellery industry, from designing and manufacturing, to sales and customer service. “I feel that the rebranding of the company will bring positive new changes and opportunities for River Mounts Jewellery. The launch of the catalogue at IJL and the website in the near future will help us grow further within the jewellery market,” he said. Director Elizabeth Metalinou added: “I am very pleased to announce the appointment of Manoj Parmar as design and operations manager. I am confident that with his experience and knowledge of the industry, Manoj is well placed to contribute to the continued growth of the company.”

Elizabeth Galton joins Aurum Holdings Aurum Holdings, which includes Goldsmiths, Mappin & Webb and Watches of Switzerland brands within its portfolio, has appointed Elizabeth Galton as a director to the trading board. Elizabeth joins with immediate effect as director of design, creative and product development for jewellery, utilising her creative talent and wealth of experience. At her previous role as creative director for Links of London, she was credited with successfully modernising the brand and product design direction, while steering the company through a significant stage of growth and design evolution. “With our continual drive and focus on our strategic plan, the next step on our journey requires significant design influence in our product ranges to enable our brands to be differentiated and have a distinct style, which will inspire our customers. Elizabeth will… significantly support us in our vision for the future,” said chief executive officer Justin Stead.

Jewellery FOCUS

face to a name

Gemfields appoints new comms manager

New team heralds change at Weston Beamor Weston Beamor, the Birmingham-based casting house and rapid-prototyping service, has changed its management team and employed a further member of staff. The appointments herald a programme of investment and expansion for the company, which is part of the WB Creative Jewellery Group. Glen Day (pictured above right), who has 27 years’ experience in the jewellery industry, and was previously production manager at the firm’s sister company Domino, has been promoted to become business manager with overall responsibility for the day-to-day management of the company. Ed Hole (pictured above left), who was previously working as a CAD designer within Weston Beamor, has been promoted to become head of CAD and rapid prototyping, and is tasked with further developing the range of jewellery production services offered by the company. Ed’s previous position in the five-strong CAD design team has been filled by Sarah Phillips (pictured far right), who has joined the company from the Hatton Garden retailer Beverley Hills Group, where she previously created bespoke CAD designs for customers.

Coloured gemstone producer Gemfields has appointed Pia Tonna as corporate communications and PR manager. Pia’s career has been focused in the luxury goods industry, having previously worked in communication roles for the Chanel Corporation, Paul Smith and her own company, Piatonna. Pia’s role will be to manage corporate communications in London and the countries in which Gemfields operates (Zambia, Mozambique and Madagascar) with the aim of generating demand and educating the trade and consumers on rare coloured gemstones. She will report to Anna Haber, director of global marketing.

NAG appoints Pravin Pattni as chairman The National Association of Goldsmiths (NAG) recently announced the inauguration of its new chairman, Pravin Pattni. Pattni, owner of Minar Jewellers, will take the position after two years shadowing Nicholas Major as vice chairman. As Major steps down from the role, Pattni will take the reins in moving the association forward over the next two years. Starting his jewellery business in England in 1974, having previously taken over his father’s business in Kenya, Pattni went on to pass his FGA and DGA in 1982/3 and expanded into the diamond business. He joined the NAG in 1998, first becoming a council member and then joining the board. He served on the Valuations Committee and then became the vice chairman of the board of directors. Pattni is also the deputy chair of the Tooting Business Network. NAG CEO and Jewellery Focus columnist Michael Hoare commented: “I’ve had the great pleasure of working with Pravin over the last few years; a man as good at business as he is kind and modest.”

Jewellery FOCUS

August 2012

Silver

Strength in silver

Despite the high prices, silver remains a metal of choice for the jewellery-buying public, but that’s not to say that the goal posts haven’t moved for designers and suppliers. Louise Hoffman finds out what they are doing to ensure that silver remains accessible to everyone

e may not have seen any rapid growth in recent months, but the price of silver remains high, with hallmarking figures consequently in the red. By the same token, however, silver jewellery collections still abound on the high street, and the metal continues to attract consumers seeking relatively affordable pieces, both for gifts and for self-purchase. Indeed, I am introduced to new silver designs on an almost daily basis in my role as editor of Jewellery Focus. To the onlooker, the prevalence of silver on the high street can seem to contradict the reports of high raw material prices and falling hallmarking figures. So how is the current situation really affecting those designers, manufacturers and suppliers who are at the coalface of the industry? I spoke to some of them to find out their views and details on their latest silver collections. Timothy Vann, managing director of Espree, told me that he has seen silver hold its ground, despite the rising prices: “As the price of gold has dramatically increased in recent years, and with no signs of this declining in the near future, the popularity of silver has soared as the metal of choice for today’s jewellery buyer. This precious metal is accessible and affordable, allowing everyone to own a little piece of luxury, which makes it more important than ever for retailers to have a silver offering. “We have also noticed that it’s not just pricing that has a bearing on sales – design and strong brand image have become predominating factors. Uncomplicated styles commonly seen in the last 10 years are no longer sought after, with customers expecting intricacy and originality in silver products,” he adds. In view of this, Espree has worked to ensure that its collections keep up with demand. Expanding on its existing silver collections, which also incorporate materials such as rose gold, diamond and pink sapphire, the company has recently launched its Fresh Water Pearl range, showcasing delicate designs and integrating naturally coloured freshwater pearls, cubic zirconia and amethyst. “Everyone should be entitled to beautiful jewellery and our balance of fair pricing, high quality materials and unique yet timeless design means that this is certainly achievable,” says Timothy. London-based Mexican Angelica Fuentes of Sandia Silver (IJL stand A89) is pleased that her new designs for 2012 are selling well. “2011 was a difficult year for retailers and designers like me. Sales were slow and the price of silver kept going up. But this year everybody seems much more optimistic and my new designs are being well received. “I decided to keep working with sterling silver because I like to offer my customers a lasting quality that I don’t see in other materials,” she explains, “so I challenged myself to be creative, designing and finding new pieces using less silver but keeping the quality feel that customers expect from Sandia Silver.” The company’s ‘Jewellery from the Heart’ range now includes simple silver bangles with an interlocking hammered or polished heart, as well as current best sellers like the ‘heart on a ring’. Angelica has also expanded her range of earrings to include different shapes and textures, and therefore to appeal to different tastes.

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August 2012

Espree

Sandia Silver

Jewellery FOCUS

Silver

Alice Stewart Image: Ali Lomas Photography

Jewellery FOCUS

August 2012

Silver

Jesa Marshall, designer of the Jesa brand (IJL stand D44), concedes that the rising price of silver has pushed the metal further towards the luxury end of the market, but says that it is simply a case of thinking outside the box in order to keep silver jewellery accessible for everyone. “We had to take the increased cost into account when designing our new Firebird range, but we have found that our tactic of creating some really nice, higher-end statement pieces in silver, alongside the more affordable, everyday pieces, has really paid off. Our customers have been happy to accommodate the increased cost if they are receiving a more luxurious or dramatic piece of jewellery. “I think when budgets are tight, those considering spending their money on a luxury piece are looking for something especially unique and good quality. But I also believe most customers understand that all metals are subject to increased costs, and they are simply viewing silver as a more precious commodity now, which is no bad thing,” she adds. Zoe Urmacher, sales director of distributor Fable Trading (IJL stand F100), also recognises the fluctuating prices: “For Trollbeads, our price is set by the Trollbeads head office in Denmark. Although we do our best to keep our UK retail pricing as stable and consistent as possible, we are not always able to absorb all of the price increases imposed, and therefore we sometimes have to increase our retail prices slightly. The Trollbeads silver bead designs remain very popular, however. “Consumers are looking for good value for money and products with longevity, and silver remains very popular. The Buddha to Buddha range fits well with this, as the brand’s silver jewellery is fashionable but timeless, with an appeal across all ages for both men and women.” Founded by Dutch fashion entrepreneur Batul Loomans and available from Fable Trading, Buddha to Buddha celebrates a philosophy of living consciously and embracing life. The contemporary collection, which was launched in the UK earlier this year at Spring Fair, includes over 200 different styles of bracelets, rings, earrings and necklaces, all individually handcrafted by Balinese artisans in Balinese silver and featuring signature Buddha to Buddha patented locks and branding. Selected pieces also feature semi-precious stones and leather.

Jesa

“Consumers are looking for good value for money and products with longevity, and silver remains very popular”

Fable Trading

Creative design

2012 has already seen some masterpieces of silver jewellery design launched to the market, especially over the summer trade show period, and with the Christmas sales season on the horizon many more are sure to be unveiled over the next few months, and at the International Jewellery London (IJL) and Autumn Fair events. Since launching at the beginning of 2011 with 50 pieces, Lily & Lotty (IJL stand E79) has grown exponentially and now boasts 85 lines in its collection, some of which will be launching at IJL this year. The brand has also introduced a children’s collection, which comes in bold coral packaging. All of the pieces in the silver collection feature a diamond accent. In a highly competitive marketplace, Lily & Lotty continues to work to grow its customer base: “We are finding that retailers love our distinctive branding and our signature turquoise packaging complete with pouch, ribbon-tied box and carrier bag, and the silver polishing cloth really enhances a gift purchase,” says the company. “Silver continues to be the metal of choice for many people buying jewellery and we find the public do have an increased awareness of the rise in the value of silver as a precious metal, but our designs appeal to a wide-ranging age group and over the last year we have gained some very loyal customers.”

Lily & Lotty

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August 2012

Jewellery FOCUS

August 2012

Silver

“I believe most customers understand that all metals are subject to increased costs, and they are simply viewing silver as a more precious commodity now, which is no bad thing” Also bringing an injection of artistic design to the British jewellery market is Joi D’Art (IJL stand B81), the well established Spanish brand. Dedicated to exceptional design and craftmanship, with a particular emphasis on textured silver and artistic fired enamel produced in its own specialised workshops in Catalonia, the brand offers original designer jewellery with full POS and marketing support. For its Autor collections, named designers create their own original collections for each season. “We believe this is a formula which will work well for British jewellers who are looking for something beyond basic silver,” says Anna Pirie. “As silver has increasingly become the metal of choice for jewellers over the last few years, now is a great time to bring design and interest into their silver ranges and help their shops stand out from the crowd.” Curteis (IJL stand H141) has now introduced its retailer ‘chain packages’. Featuring best-selling pendant chains, curbs, spigas and traces, available in sterling silver, the package contains a total of 60 chains in lengths of 16 inches and 18 inches, made up with a fitting, as well as a free, personalised chain display block and POS unit. The company’s sterling silver bangles are also proving popular, with designs ranging from the simple and classic, to the bold and contemporary. These can be worn singly or in combinations to achieve the desired look. “On trend and with price points to suit all consumer budgets – we recommend some of these be kept in stock!” it says. Alice Stewart’s new Fable Collection comprises intricate designs inspired by nature and fables. She uses traditional craft techniques, and a mixture of soft satin and high shine finishes to give the sterling silver and 18 carat gold plate a two-tone effect. “I use sterling silver because it makes high-quality jewellery that is durable; pieces that are to be worn and treasured for years,” she explains. Finally, Surrey-based jewellery designer Tatyana Becker offers a range of jewellery in silver. Born in Zambia, she is still influenced by African art and ancient designs, but her present collection is far more influenced by the beauty of the British countryside and our busy towns and cities. The pieces are etched, textured, pierced, forged and formed individually, and wearers can in many cases choose the components and alter pieces according to their mood and the day’s requirements – work or play; understated or flamboyant.

Joi D’Art

Curteis

Alice Stewart

Tatyana Becker

Supplier listing

Alice Stewart: 0121 745 4186 or www.alicestewartjewellery.com Fable Trading: 0117 377 4214 or info@fabletrading.co.uk Curteis: 0800 195 6771 or www.curteis.com Espree: 0121 355 2111 or www.espree-jewellery.co.uk Jesa: 01258 881 690 or www.jesamarshall.co.uk Joi D’Art: 0208 275 1600 or annagee@supanet.com Lily & Lotty: 01752 492 750 or www.lilyandlotty.com Sandia Silver: 07940 817 771 or angelica@sandia-silver.co.uk Tatyana Becker: www.tatyanabecker.co.uk

August 2012

Jewellery FOCUS

August 2012

Jewellery FOCUS

August 2012

Men’s jewellery

Chris Hawkins

Market momentum ‘M A remarkable, recession-busting success story, the men’s jewellery market continues to grow and diversify. Jon Chapple takes a look at some of the latest designs

Skulls and Or chids

August 2012

ewellery’, ‘mangles’, ‘mancessories’, ‘mengagement’ rings – whether you choose to adopt the latest buzz words or not, men’s jewellery cannot be ignored. During a period of time in which most of the world has been suffering austerity, the market for masculine adornment has expanded at a rapid rate. In fact, one report suggests that it has been responsible for twothirds of the growth in the US jewellery market between 2008 and 2010. Just as in the US, jewellery for men continues to be one of the most exciting growth prospects for UK retailers. And jewellery designers are responding accordingly, embracing traditional notions of masculinity and shunning effeminate designs; ostentatious ‘bling’; and conventional labels, such as ‘bracelet’, which is now often replaced with ‘wristwear’ or the aforementioned ‘mangles’ – currently the most in-demand item of jewellery for men. Leather is most definitely in, as is rope and cord; stainless steel and silver; dark, neutral colours; and

Fred Bennett

a chunky, minimalistic aesthetic, often drawing on a military influence. One company reacting to this changing status quo is Gecko, which will launch the latest collection of silver, stainless steel and silver-plated men’s jewellery by its Fred Bennett (IJL stand E31) brand this month. Its selection of in-demand casualwear includes stainless steel necklaces and chunky leather bracelets in a range of new colours; while the brand’s increasingly popular silver-plated range now includes new designs featuring Swarovski Elements. “Fred Bennett’s latest range of men’s jewellery has been injected with a dynamic mix of new materials, textures and traditional designs,” says Gecko,

Jewellery FOCUS

Men’s jewellery

Midhaven

Simon Carter

“offering a stimulating range of wearable and current designs to complement every lifestyle at any budget.” Interestingly, the men’s jewellery boom between 2008 and 2010 was fuelled almost solely by men buying jewellery for themselves rather than receiving it as a gift – “it’s not wives buying jewellery for their husbands,” Unity Marketing founder Pam Danziger told Time magazine in 2010, “it’s men buying it because they like a piece.” This makes wives or partners taking the first steps towards accessorising their men a key demographic to keep an eye on in the near future. Skulls and Orchids (IJL stand D18) was founded in September 2011 by Steven Dennis, a British designer and goldsmith who specialises in using traditional tools to hand-carve his pieces in sterling silver. “I launched Skulls and Orchids with a desire to create images that would tell a story,” says Steven, who has over 20 years’ experience creating jewellery from his studio workshop in Eastbourne and describes his work as a marriage of “contemporary rock/gothic with retro, urban jewellery.”

Jewellery FOCUS

fascination with a much maligned and misunderstood predator,” Chris says. Toby Bateman, buying director at online menswear shop Mr Porter, recently told GQ that bracelet sales doubled in the six months from October 2011 to March 2012, and that they are now regularly seen adorning the wrists of London Fashion Week’s “more forwardthinking, front-row attendees.” This will please Midhaven Ltd Steven’s pieces have a rugged, gritty (IJL stand F81), which is offering over edge, and he says he enjoys the fact 100 designs for men in its Tribal Steel that his jewellery “walks on the dark range of leather bracelets. Available side, acknowledging life’s knocks along in five sizes and in over 10 colours, the way.” He is currently celebrating each item comes in a stylish, branded his greatest success so far – being hessian pouch. Free point-of-sale is also featured amongst top designers in offered for orders of over £200. New to Goldsmiths’ ‘Best of British’ campaign the collection is a selection of stainless and featuring in its flagship stores. steel bracelets and cufflinks. “I believe men will always gravitate Midhaven says it is so confident towards quality, good design and the range will sell well and offers real originality, buying jewellery that value for money, that it is offering reflects their own individuality and an exchange back-up, allowing the taste,” says men’s jewellery designer customer to “experiment without Chris Hawkins (IJL stand D31), who risk.” For more details, jewellers describes his latest work as capturing should contact Alison Hargreaves or and distilling the “lethal elegance of Allison Smethurst. nature.” Chris’s collections focus on New for autumn/winter 2012 natural themes, often with a macabre from accessories designer Simon twist, and see talons, bones and Carter are coloured woven leather thorns undulate with flowing lines bracelets featuring wing motif and complex curves to form bold but findings and chunky branded clasps; wearable jewellery. necklaces with onyx and tiger’s eye Pictured at the beginning of this tusk pendants, gunmetal wing and article is Chris’s shark anchor designs and jaw pendant on a platinum-plated titanium chain, from sugar skulls; and the Mako collection, semi-precious bead which is also available bracelets in tiger’s in on-trend leather; eye, onyx, sodalite and to the right and snowflake is the vertebrae obsidian, with a bracelet in silver single skull, cross with interlocking or shield bead links. “The shark jaw in gunmetal or s n i Chris Hawk pendant reflects our platinum plate.

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August 2012

Men’s jewellery

Unique Jew elry Simon describes the collection as having a “gothic rock feel,” but says it “embodies the quirky eccentricity” of the brand. Each piece of jewellery is supplied in Simon Carter’s recognisable cinnamon branded packaging. Specialising in modern, design-led jewellery, Unique Jewelry (IJL stand E121) is in particular known for its successful men’s collection. “Braided leather, in combination with stainless steel elements and special clasps, is masculine and trendy and very popular at the moment,” the company states. “Our designs are urban, young and contemporary, and crafted to the highest quality at affordable prices.” But for all this talk of male accessories and mangles, there will always be a market for the traditional cufflink, and seventh-generation family business Deakin & Francis (IJL stand C79) – based in Birmingham’s

August 2012

famous Jewellery Quarter – has had it covered since 1786. As the company says, “cufflinks are extraordinary; unlike any other accessory, they can truly reflect the personality and the mood of the wearer. They can whisper of wealth; trumpet tradition; reflect loves; cock a snook at it all; or make you laugh.” In honour of Britain’s summer of sport, James and Henry Deakin have produced a range of creative sporting cufflinks, which includes tennis racquets, golf bags, basketballs and a pair of retro racing cars with moving wheels.

rancis Deakin & F

Information

Chris Hawkins Jewellery: 01273 554 632 or chris@chrishawkinsjewellery.com Deakin & Francis: 0121 236 7751 or www.deakinandfrancis.co.uk Fred Bennett: 01376 532 000 or sales@geckojewellery.com Midhaven: 01299 851 513, info@midhaven.co.uk or www.midhavensilver.com Simon Carter: 0208 683 4475, sales@simoncarter.net or www.simoncarter.net Skulls and Orchids: 01323 724 625, info@somjewellery.com or www.skullsandorchids.com Unique Jewelry: 0207 405 5523 or sales@uniquejewelry.co.uk

Jewellery FOCUS

August 2012

COMMENT

Borrow your road map? Michael Hoare provides an update on the NAG and BJA joint ethics committee, which aims to simplify the concept of ethical trading for the jewellery sector

here is no doubt that consumer tastes are changing, influenced by new products, technological developments, economic circumstances, and latterly concerns for the environment. This has not happened overnight; environmental activists have been working for more than 30 years to raise awareness of the ecosystems on which we all rely. Along with environmental concerns, we have also grown aware of the price sometimes paid by the people who bring us the things we take for granted; the end result being that consumers’ relationships with the goods they buy are far more complex than ever before, and there has been an inexorable rise in the number of people who want to buy ethically.

Consumers’ relationships with the goods they buy are far more complex than ever before The last decade has seen considerable change in the jewellery sector. Many more miners, raw material processors, designers and jewellers want to act responsibly and ethically, and with due respect for the planet and the people that populate it. In that time there has also been a flourishing of ethical initiatives touching on all levels and segments of the sector. However, the supply chain is very complex, with a proliferation of companies and individuals playing their part in bringing products to market. The result is a complex web of sometimes complementary, sometimes conflicting, and often overlapping schemes, each with their own priorities, timescales, and ultimate objectives. And of course the world does not stand still – conflicts, politics, shifting allegiances and many other factors are continually reshaping the world in which we live. Take the attempts to revise the Kimberley Process in the light of developments in Zimbabwe as an example. This matrix is not easy to navigate, and that is why the British Jewellers’ Association (BJA) joined forces with the National Association of Goldsmiths (NAG) in 2010 to support access to ethical supply chains and chain-of-custody objectives for their members. The launch of Fairtrade gold alone heralded a surge in demand from jewellers who were eager to embrace ethical values throughout their supply chain. However, many found themselves in a quandary as to how to integrate a fully traceable or credible system for selecting suppliers and for giving assurances to consumers. Realising that many small businesses are faced with substantial challenges when trying to break down the components of their supply chains and assess ethical credentials, the BJA and NAG committed to take the lead for UK jewellery manufacturers and retailers, forming a joint ethics committee to consider the issues. Both associations have connections with the Responsible Jewellery Council

August 2012

(RJC) and CIBJO and are mindful of their contribution to the debate; but, acting in the best interests of their respective members, want to assess the feasibility of a system of auditable standards covering mining, metals, diamonds, gemstones, manufacturing and retailing, tackling each field and calling on experts for an open and frank information exchange in order to define a robust system for the UK jewellery industry. Vivien Johnston, founder of ethical jewellery brand Fifi Bijoux, was appointed to steer the project, whilst Greg Valerio, winner of the Observer Ethical Campaigner Award for his work to bring Fairtrade gold to market, also pledged his support for the definition of the standards. To establish our ground rules, our first meeting included a no-holds-barred discussion with the WWF, Global Witness, PACT and Earthworks, which set out the challenges they’ve met on the ground, gave examples of conditions in artisanal small scale mining, and shared experience from other sectors such as agriculture and cotton farming, where chainof-custody traceability standards have been successfully established. All parties agreed it was a hugely informative and interesting session, and subsequent meetings have been equally revealing. Focusing first on the subject of gold, our discussions included contributions from an expert group representing banks, bullion traders and refiners, as well as the UK manufacturing industry, and referenced recent developments including OECD Due Diligence; the Dodd-Frank Act; the London Bullion Market Association’s Responsible Gold Guidance and Conflict Gold; World Gold Council Chain of Custody draft standards; the RJC Chain of Custody; and Fairtrade for ASM. Meetings on diamonds have included representations by Godfrey Marange, chief of the Marange Clan, and an intercessionary meeting was bolstered by the presence of CIBJO president Gaetano Cavalieri, who backed our efforts to bring clarity to the ethical debate.

The British market has an opportunity to lead on transparency and ethical issues Our research shows that the British market has an opportunity to lead on transparency and ethical issues, and by engaging in frank and fearless discussions between all parties it is well placed to advance ahead of the compulsory and regulatory measures that look most likely to affect supply chains in coming months. As you can imagine, progress in tackling such an immense subject is inevitably slow. But we are ready to share our initial findings, and will be doing so during the forthcoming International Jewellery London (IJL) show. Our ‘gold report’ will follow shortly thereafter – so watch this space!

Jewellery FOCUS

MANUFACTURER OF DIAMOND & COLOURED STONE JEWELLERY IN 18K GOLD & PLATINUM

VISIT US AT IJL ON STAND G49 Jewellery FOCUS

Web: www.greenspark.co.uk Telephone: +44(0)161 436 6600 Fax: +44(0)161 283 2621 Email: gems@greenspark.co.uk August 2012

Designer

Ethics, epics and ingenuity Having established his jewellery design business in 1995, Stephen Einhorn has become well known for his focus on good craftsmanship, and the awe-inspiring pieces he has created for such Hollywood blockbusters as the recent Snow White and the Huntsman. Naida Ally finds out more about his enthralling design style August 2012â&#x20AC;&#x2030;

Jewellery FOCUS

Designer

What set you on the path to jewellery design?

The first things I made were my nail hooks and stools; skull and crossbones taps; one piece spiral corkscrew; birdcage feeder; and four men’s signet rings. The interior pieces got a lot of attention from the press, but when it came to sales the rings led the way. Then a friend of mine introduced me to the buyers at Paul Smith and they ended up placing an order for 300 rings. This created a buzz and sparked industry interest in me, and as a result I ended up designing and making jewellery collections for leading designers and luxury brands including Dunhill, Dexter Wong, and Japanese brands A Bathing Ape and Takeo Kikuchi.

Your jewellery featured quite prominently in Tim Burton’s Dark Shadows, as well as Snow White and the Huntsman and the television series True Blood. How did you get noticed by Hollywood?

Thanks to industry contacts built up over many years through model making and running my own business. I know quite a few people after all this time… My background in model making for adverts and film also works in my favour. The costume designers and property masters know that I understand the pressures that go along with working in these industries and on large-scale, big-budget projects, and that definitely makes me a more attractive proposition when they’re commissioning jewellery designs. Also, I have a lot of experience working with unusual materials, which is a big plus for film work.

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Can you tell us about the pieces you made for Ravenna the evil queen (played by Charlize Theron) in the Snow White film?

I loved making the pieces for Snow White and the Huntsman, and it was great working with the very talented, award-winning costume designer Colleen Atwood. The medieval necklace looked truly regal; like something you would see in the V&A costume collection. We were extremely pleased with the overall quality and finer details of the finished piece. For my brief for the Stag Beetle collar, Colleen gave me a picture of a medieval dress and a box of dead stag beetles! She wanted a collar made out of bugs; a malevolent and dark design that reflected the evil queen’s character, but was also quite subtle. In the wider shots it wouldn’t be obvious what it was made from – only when the camera moves in closer would you notice that the striking collar was made entirely of insects. I was extremely proud of my final design (see overleaf); a spectacular piece consisting of over 150 beetles, which really reflects the skill of the craftsmen we have working in our London workshops.

What do you enjoy most about your job?

I enjoy working with the people I employ – after all, we have to see each other every day. They are a great bunch of people and work really hard for the company. I love designing the most, and I also take great pleasure in working out manufacturing problems. In another life I would have been an engineer or inventor – I love problem solving.

How would you describe your latest collection? Is there a particular theme running through it? “I’m from the generation that was involved in punk and I think the music and the street culture of that movement really changed everything for me”

Jewellery FOCUS

Designing and sculpting the stag beetles for the collar led me to look at other types of beetles and insects as sources of inspiration. The collection I’m currently working on is my Insecta collection, based on stag beetles. I was drawn to the vast variations in colour and the intricate details of these creatures. They are beautiful and a bit scary at the same time. The really big ones are formidable; they have a dark and glamorous appeal to them. I’m enjoying the design process immensely.

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Designer

How do you achieve that ‘edginess’ in your designs?

Well, I’m not sure, are my designs edgy? I suppose it must be the fact that I make what a like – I’m not tied down to fashion in any way, and instead I just make what I think is interesting. I love using traditional techniques but I’m not enamoured of repeating designs that have gone before. I like new, modern, and interesting designs. I like to pay as much attention to the back of a piece – a catch, or the shape of the inside of a ring – as I do to the parts you can see. Every detail is carefully considered; for instance, I have one design, the Thames River ring, which has a compass engraved inside it. We also have a reputation for the highest levels of craftsmanship, which runs through the entire range of my work – from my silver charms through to my fine jewellery and bespoke designs. This is extremely important to me. I think that design is important in every aspect of our lives and it annoys me that some things we use every day are designed beautifully, whilst an awful lot of other things aren’t. Why we can design the London Tube map in such an innovative, clever, and graphic way, which is admired all around the world, and then forget about the importance and functionality of road signs, street furniture and objects that we look at and use every day is beyond me.

What influenced you creatively in the early stages of your career?

“For me, being ethical is a way of life… it concerns the way you behave towards others as well as working conditions and materials that you use”

I’m from the generation that was involved in punk and I think the music and the street culture of that movement really changed everything for me. We suddenly realised it was possible to do anything – for anyone to have a go. I think Americans would call this a ‘can do’ attitude, which was not the normal way that anyone thought about doing anything in 70s Britain. That’s what punk indirectly did for us.

What inspires you now?

The natural world is one of my greatest sources of inspiration, as well as British engineering and design. London – the creative and culturally rich city I live in – has also been a constant source of inspiration; there are loads of artists, designers and architects etc whom I admire, such as the architect Thomas Heatherwick, and of course the inimitable Sir Jonathan Paul Ive.

What is your stance on the issue of ethics in jewellery? Is it a concept that plays a part in your creations?

Most definitely – right from the beginning we have tried to be as socially, environmentally and ethically responsible as possible, from our packaging, which has always been made of either recycled or recyclable materials (our current packaging took us two years to develop; it took ages to find the right manufacturer), to where we source our stones from and how we treat our staff.

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Designer

“In my own small way I wanted to bring British craftsmanship back, and I’m proud that the success of my company is based on that”

Last year we became one of the few businesses in the UK who were given the licence to be able to sell Fairtrade and Fairmined gold. After trying to be as ethically sound as we could for the last 17 years, it was finally possible for us to use a certifiable, Fairtrade and Fairmined dual stamp – this has been a brilliant part of our story. For me though, being ethical is a way of life, not just simply buying Fairtrade products. Ethics concerns the way you behave towards others as well as working conditions and materials that you use. I find this is yet another bandwagon that a lot of companies have jumped on, but in the long run, it’s got to be better for all of us, hasn’t it?

How has your relationship with the materials you use changed over the years? Which materials do you most enjoy working with? I am always looking for new and interesting materials to use; materials that you wouldn’t necessarily think of when you think of jewellery design. I enjoy the process of working out how to adapt them and make them work. For instance the Thames oak that I use in one of my collections was particularly hard to stabilise, and I spent a lot of time working on and developing a unique impregnation and sealing technique to protect and waterproof this beautiful and rare material – after all, it had been buried in silt for 2,000 years, and it needed to be protected in order to be used. We have also utilised granite and concrete, which are beautiful when polished. At the moment I’m enjoying working with traditional and natural coloured yellow gold, favouring it over rose and white gold, but this could change at any moment…

It would have been a lot easier and cheaper for me to outsource the manufacture of my designs to another country. However it was really important to me that we manufacture in Britain and employ people in this country. Having lived through the Thatcher years I had watched our strong manufacturing base being decimated. We tried to outsource some of our work due to the sheer volume of orders we were designing and making for other luxury brands, but we just couldn’t get the quality and price we needed. So, rather than compromise and have to use overseas manufacturers, we took the decision to stop wholesaling our jewellery, and to concentrate solely on our own brand and retail it ourselves. Britain used to have a strong tradition and reputation for manufacturing and design all around the world, and it’s a tragedy that this is not being nurtured. In my own small way I wanted to bring British craftsmanship back, and I’m proud that the success of my company is based on that. The fact that we’ve been going for 17 years and that we keep on growing and doing more and more exciting work is my idea of success.

What are your long-term career goals?

We would like to open more shops and workshops in cities abroad. I’d love a space in New York. Also, we’re finding more of our customers are coming from places like China, Japan, Brazil, India and Russia, so we’re looking to expand our online presence in these countries. We have a lot of international customers and the end goal is to have a fully translated version of our online shop for our key overseas markets, but obviously this takes time! We want to expand but in a considered way, and not in a way that would compromise the goals I had when I started my label, which were and continue to be, creating handmade, innovative jewellery and unique designs, whilst offering a level of personalised service that other, more corporate brands can’t equal.

Do you have any new ideas or designs in the pipeline?

I’m currently working on a collection that is inspired by flight, and I’m looking at making a collection using acrylic and large hollow metal shapes to create a really bold and colourful look.

What has made you feel successful as a jewellery designer?

I felt successful when I was able to open my London shop and workshops; support my family on the proceeds of the company; and be in a position to pay fair and proper wages to the people who work for me.

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IJL 2012 preview

Forward thinking

Sam Willoughby, event director for International Jewellery London (IJL), tells Louise Hoffman about this year’s line-up, which seeks to put visitors in a strong position for the ensuing year

In planning for IJL 2012, where has your journey taken you?

The IJL team is so excited about the 2012 show. We’ve met some outstanding new designers recently, as we were on the judging panels for the KickStart and Bright Young Gems initiatives; F Hinds’ High Street By Design Award; the Goldsmiths’ Craftsmanship and Design Awards; and the Design Innovation Awards, earlier in the year. It’s such a great opportunity to see the designers of the future. In the case of Bright Young Gems, the designers are put forward by some of the best fashion and jewellery experts in the country, who have tipped them for real success as outstanding jewellery stars of the future. With KickStart, the project attracted over 50 high quality entries this year – the best to date. We also recently held a special event at the new Goldsmiths’ Centre to unveil the KickStart designers for 2012. I think the Centre is visionary, combining the heritage and tradition of the trade with a stylish look, and it is also a fantastic venue for the industry to hold meetings and network throughout the year. I am particularly pleased that we’re hosting an impressive 129 new exhibitors at the show this year, and it’s been inspiring to see some of our existing exhibitors grow. Stuart Moore was on a shared stand last year and is now on the high profile Boulevard on his own stand, showcasing his inspirational designs. Designer Imogen Belfield has gone from an up-and-coming Bright Young Gem, to a KickStart designer, as her career goes from strength to strength; and Claire English, who won a trend award last year on the KickStart stand, is back exhibiting with her own stand

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too. It’s fantastic for me as the event director to see careers blossoming for exhibitors, and to know we have played a crucial part in that.

Thinking back to the conversations you have had with the trade during this time, what has been the general sentiment in regard to sector performance over the past year?

Let’s be honest, these are tough times. But the feeling I get, not only from the exhibitors I speak to, but also the Diamond Club retailers and Advisory Board members, is fairly positive. Sales seem to be on the up for the majority and, while there are always expectations, it seems accurate to say everyone is cautiously optimistic. It is definitely those retailers that are more forward thinking in terms of product choice, as well as how they market themselves – whether through social media, their own launch events or their celebrity associations – that seem to be doing the best. It’s also interesting to see that the watch sector is showing signs of economic growth. I was recently talking to Jonathan Hedges from GfK, who is one of our keynote seminar speakers at this year’s show, and he told me that the organisation’s research shows department stores and mail order houses, for example, have increased their market share of watches by 1.4 percentage points in the last 12 months. Furthermore, there are now over 400 brands currently selling in the UK, and despite a sharp decline in volume sales, there is a continuing increase in the average selling prices – all of which is encouraging, especially as each year we attract an increasing number of watch brands to the show.

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IJL 2012 preview

Sam Willoughby

Did any of these conversations lead directly to improvements to the IJL line-up or structure for 2012?

Quite often the IJL team will hear very valuable information or success stories and arrange seminars based on these, as a way of sharing the knowledge with visitors. We also do a lot of research to find out which seminars were the most useful, so we can make sure the speakers and topics are spot on. In addition, we carry out considerable research on the show generally, to make certain that a visit to IJL really lives up to its promise and delivers a unique experience which cannot be found at other shows in the UK. We change or add new show highlights every year based on feedback and this guarantees to keep the show fresh and exciting – a commitment which both exhibitors and visitors tell us continues to ensure that IJL is a ‘must attend’ event within the jewellery calendar.

Can you whet our appetites with more detail on the show highlights?

There are so many – where do I start! All of the new designers and brands are set to be a real highlight for a lot of buyers. A good example of this is Dinny Hall, whose fans include Kate Winslet and Alexa Chung. She is coming to the show to exhibit for the very first time. I know lots of established designers and brands are also launching exciting new collections and the line-up is amazing this year, especially on the fine jewellery side, with the Boulevard studded with star brands and suppliers such as Richard Hans Becker, Heinz Mayer and Fei Liu. And in the Designer Brands area, Sarah Jordan will be featuring her new 25th Anniversary Collection – a very special collection of dynamic silver jewellery, reflecting her favourite themes of nature, the sea and rolling landscapes. We are also introducing a watch trail around the show, so it’s easy to identify watch brands or jewellery companies with watch lines – brands and companies include Storm, Since 1853, Festina and, new this year, the very contemporary Danish watch brand, Bering. There’s going to be a celebration of metals too, with the Platinum Experience, hosted by Platinum Guild International, showcasing the unique heritage of the metal

using some incredible interactive technology. A new Platinum Trail will also reveal the best in platinum jewellery design and production, and the International Palladium Board will be presenting a seminar on the future of palladium, as well as hosting a lounge area on the show floor. The seminar programme provides a huge draw, especially for visitors. There is a rich array of different speakers this year, ranging from the not-to-be-missed leading trend forecaster, Stylesight, speaking on upcoming trends; to Jayant Raniga, PureJewels’s brand manager, and his industry panel’s fascinating debate on ‘Brand or Retailer’; and Claire Rayner, the Retail Champion, sharing her top insights.

What are your recommendations for new visitors?

If you haven’t already registered, obtain your free badge by visiting www.jewellerylondon.com/register – if you leave it until the show there is a £25 fee! You will then receive your IJL badge in the post and a copy of IJL’s Essential Guide, which features the latest news and the lowdown on all of the highlights featuring at the show. Once you have arrived at IJL, it’s a good idea to walk around the show, absorbing the atmosphere and getting ideas about trends. The show is clearly laid out to streamline the experience, so you can head to the areas you’re most interested in – a couple of examples are the Diamonds and Loose Gems area, or the Design Gallery and Designer Brands (don’t miss the Bright Young Gems and KickStart stands there!). There is so much to see at IJL, but it’s also a fantastic networking opportunity. You can catch up with friends and meet contacts, either on their stands, in the Boulevard Bar or at IJL’s new networking space on the forecourt, ‘Central Café’ and at the Design Gallery Bar. There is also a multitude of evening events happening during the week of IJL, such as the DIA Awards. I would also definitely recommend that you take a look at the seminar programme as you can hear information and ideas that can genuinely keep you ahead of your competitors and strengthen your business further – and it’s completely free!

IJL 2012 preview

Established Spanish brand Joi D’Art combines original collections from designers with the benefit of high-quality brand support, packaging and POS. All of the brand’s jewellery is produced in its workshops near Barcelona, with new designer collections released every season. Information: 0208 275 1600 or annagee@supanet.com IJL stand: B81

¯¯The National Association of Goldsmiths (NAG) has been advancing, serving and protecting the needs of retail jewellers since 1894. NAG’s benefits package includes training, a free legal helpline, security, SaferGems alerts, and international representation. Information: 0207 613 4445 or nag@jewellers-online.org IJL stand: i109 ¯¯Mishca Jewels will use IJL 2012 as the launch platform for unveiling its Metamorphoses collection. The collection, which includes bold and unique sterling silver and gold vermeil designs set with white topaz and citrine gemstones, showcases the brand’s new signature statement pieces. Pieces in the collection are inspired by ancient myths of transformation and named for mythical figures, such as nymphs. The pictured ‘Syrinx’ earrings are sterling silver set with white topaz gemstones. Information: 0207 193 1995, info@mishca.co.uk or www.mishca.co.uk IJL stand: A51

Exhibitor highlights

±±Treasure House will be showcasing its new Premium Weds range of wedding rings for the first time. The range is complemented by a wide selection of diamond-set wedding rings and diamond-set jewellery. Also featured at the event will be Treasure House’s Premium Mounts range of high-calibre mounts in platinum and 18 carat gold. The company offers a next day delivery promise. Information: 0207 400 0000 or sales@thgold.com IJL stand: i50

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IJL 2012 preview

Nexus Pearls carries an impressive range of all types of pearls, jewellery and clasps, including freshwater, Akoya, Tahitian and South Sea pearls. The company’s new nine carat gold, 18 carat gold and silver ranges ensure that a variety of price points can be offered. Nexus Pearls can also provide a comprehensive range of services, from repairs and rethreading to an approbation service. Information: 0121 554 9999, sales@nexuspearls.co.uk or www.nexuspearls.co.uk IJL stand: H61

®®Thammarat Trading Ltd is a family-run manufacturer and wholesaler that specialises in silver and marcasite jewellery. Operating from the south east of England for over 20 years, Thammarat prides itself on supplying quality jewellery at affordable prices with excellent customer service. Information: 01702 525 530, info@thamtrading.co.uk or www.thamtrading.co.uk IJL stand: E75

¯¯Mode360s have been described as “must-have” devices for both established and new online sellers who wish to attract new customers and boost sales performance. The innovative brand allows an easy creation of standard pack shots, 360° and full 3D animations of products. Mode360s are simple to operate and compatible with Mac and Windows. The range offers the ultimate solution to photographing products such as jewellery and watches because of its ability to present the products in 360° or 3D. You can instantly produce high-quality 360° animations of objects, both small and large, by using the Photo Composer mini studio or through an integration of Twister and Combo models. The turntable – used on its own or connected to a multi-purpose shadowless chamber – allows the user to generate pictures of products in a full rotation around their axes. The creation of professional 360° product presentations in Flash or Java Script/HTML5 files can be achieved within minutes. Information: 0207 935 4468, office@mode360.co.uk or www.mode360.co.uk IJL stand: C109

®®Showcasing at IJL for the first time, Banyan is keen to share its popular 2012 range with customers old and new. Banyan states that its combination of design, originality and affordability has proved a massive success, and that this, and a dedication to providing customers with the highest standards of products and service, has led to the company expanding and diversifying its customer base. Information: 01626 853 384, enquiries@banyanjewellery.co.uk or www.banyanjewellery.co.uk IJL stand: E108 ¯¯Marcia Lanyon anticipates its IJL stand to be busy as usual, thanks to its eye-catching stock of stones, beads and pearls. Opals, tanzanites, agates and pearls will be on display, with staff on hand and ready to help find whatever it is you are looking for. Information: 0207 602 2446, sales@marcialanyon.com or www.marcialanyon.com IJL stand: J51

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IJL 2012 preview

¯¯“We live in interesting and challenging times,” says Marcus McCallum. Despite this he believes that the market and demand for quality stones is as strong as ever, with bold colours especially popular, and an emphasis on quality rather than size. “Sapphires are in good demand, with an increasing interest in fancy colours, and tourmalines and aquamarines are also continuing to prove good sellers.” Information: 0207 405 2169 IJL stand: J31 ®®Bullion Bond/Precious Waste Recovery Ltd (PWR) has specialised in the processing of precious metal scrap and workshop waste for over 20 years, and has a buying desk, as well as a private dealing room in Chesham, Buckinghamshire. Customers are able to visit the company workshop to witness their scrap being processed. Information: 01494 372 051, tony@bullionbond.co.uk or ian@bullionbond.co.uk

¯¯Yorkshire-based Pearce Displays has been helping independent and multiple chain jewellers display their products for over 32 years. From loose displays to a complete shop design and fit, everything is produced in-house by Pearce’s team of skilled craftsmen. To celebrate the company’s continued success, Pearce Displays is giving Jewellery Focus readers the chance to win a Kindle by scanning the QR code on their advert in this issue (see page 37). Information: 01484 605 458 or www.pearcedisplays.co.uk IJL stand: E168

IJL stand: C161

Thai Design Distributors continues to expand its in-house jewellery collections ready for this year’s IJL show. With over 40 years’ experience in the jewellery trade, the manufacturer supplies to wholesalers, retailers and exclusively to jewellery designers who have their own brand name. Thai Design says its “quick delivery, superb production quality and efficient customer service ensures the stability and growth of this family business.” Information: 0208 903 0233 or info@thaidesignuk.com IJL stand: E99

®®XMC International Ltd, which offers an extensive range of semiset and plain finished mounts in 18 carat gold and platinum, is rebranding to River Mounts Jewellery. The company states it will “continue to provide and deliver the same level of service and dedication in manufacturing.” Information: 0121 523 1028 IJL stand: H101

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IJL 2012 preview

¯¯ED Erfurt-Design manufactures high-class silver jewellery with semi-precious stones. The collection, available to view in the online catalogue, is divided into three sections: ED Unique – unique silver ring and pendant designs for carefully selected stones in top manufacturing; ED Classic – a collection of standard designs of rings, pendants and earrings regularly in stock; and ED Funtasya – a colourful collection of combination pendants, stacking rings and matching earrings for individual creations. Information: www.erfurt-design.de IJL stand: E120

¯¯Festina watches has released a new collection to coincide with its 20th anniversary as the official timekeeper of the Tour de France. The new edition Chrono Bike collection – the Tour de France’s official watch – is a series of men’s chronographs inspired by the world of top-level competitive cycling. Information: 0207 405 5523, sales@uniquejewelry.co.uk or www.festina.com IJL stand: E129

With Christmas closer than some would like to admit, Pearls of the Orient has added a four-stand white cultured freshwater pearl necklace, featuring a diamante clasp set in sterling silver to its collection. The company offers an extensive range of affordably priced jewellery with an array of designs suitable for jewellers, gift shops and fashion boutiques. Information: 01483 205 820, pearls@pearlsoftheorient.co.uk or www.pearlsoftheorient.co.uk IJL stand: E59

Tezer is a collection of silver jewellery designed for the discerning woman looking for something a little bit different. Sema Sezen has been designing jewellery for women like herself for over 20 years, creating “timeless pieces but always with a female touch,” and with inspiration drawn from nature. Tezer has also now extended a 14 carat goldplated range that contains necklaces, bracelets, earrings, pendants and rings. Information: 07774 928 045 (Sharon Acton) IJL stand: G118

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IJL 2012 preview

¯¯Sunshine Exim has been supplying hand-made, gem-set jewellery for over 20 years. The company has an enthusiastic team of experienced and motivated people, who create traditional and contemporary pieces. Bespoke pieces of jewellery can also be made using customers’ own gemstones and diamonds. Sunshine Exim says it “satisfies all clients well with credible quality, competitive prices and exceptional customer service.” Information: 0207 242 9299, sunshine@dircon.co.uk or www.sunshineexim.com IJL stand: L19

®®Adding to its now iconic ranges in order to provide fans with a brand new trend, Tresor Paris will be launching its first ever watch collection at this year’s IJL. Adding a splash of colour to the wrist, the watches come in a range of 13 bold and bright colours. Information: www.tresorparis.com IJL stands: E39 and i39

¯¯This year at IJL, R M Shah Ltd will be displaying its new collection of finest colour aquamarines and gem quality Zambian faceted and cabochon emeralds, as well as some very attractive, newly acquired old cut and fancy yellow diamonds. Precious stone beads have always been one of the firm’s strongest areas, and a selection of rare unheated Burmese ruby and sapphire bead necklaces and fine tumbled emerald beads will be on display for the first time. “We are very excited about exhibiting this year, but with so many beautiful and interesting gems available we are not going to be able to fit everything in the windows, so we encourage visitors to ask if they don’t see what they are looking for,” says the company. Information: 0207 405 2162 IJL stand: J101

Hockley Mint is an established British jewellery supplier that serves retail accounts both at home and abroad. The company is one of Europe’s largest manufacturing jewellers and produces mounts, wedding rings and bespoke items. Hockley Mint has invested heavily in technology and people to ensure a continuation of high standards of service and quality. Information: 0121 242 0042 or www.hockleymint.co.uk IJL stand: H118

The sole UK distributor of Trollbeads charm jewellery and Buddha to Buddha Balinese silver jewellery, Fable Trading will present both brands at IJL 2012. Trollbeads’ autumn collection will be on display for the first time, alongside the ‘People’s Bead 2012’. Buddha to Buddha pieces exhibited include the hand-crafted, bold silver collection of bracelets, rings, earrings and necklaces. Information: 0117 377 4214 or info@fabletrading.co.uk IJL stand: F100

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Jewellery FOCUS

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IJL 2012 preview

¯¯Gemvision Europe will unveil its brand new CounterSketch Version 3 studio design software at IJL 2012. CounterSketch gives jewellery retailers with little or no custom design experience the chance to use jewellery design software to create production-ready pieces. Live demonstrations of the product, showcasing its functionality and software, will be on-going at Gemvision’s IJL stand. Information: 0113 389 9710, gveurope@gemvision.com or www.gemvision.com IJL stand: H149

®®Hanalex’s range consists of all gold jewellery; its popular silver range KisSilver; and ‘Glamour’ – its gold-on-silver jewellery range. Over 160 new lines were added in June and July, providing customers with all the latest designs and trends. Hanalex’s national sales force aims to deliver full customer satisfaction and service, and is available six days a week. Information: 01270 872 395 or sales@hanalex.co.uk IJL stand: i124

Wholesale supplier Samuel Jones Pearls has an extensive range of hand-selected freshwater pearls, cultured pearls, Tahitian and South Sea pearls. Using in-house designers, the company also produces collections of nine carat and 18 carat jewellery. In addition, Samuel Jones offers individual pearls and re-stringing services, and can create bespoke pieces of jewellery. Information: 01386 41430, sales@sjpearls.co.uk or www.sjpearls.co.uk IJL stand: i60

®®Sheldon Bloomfield is exhibiting at IJL once again this year and is taking the opportunity to launch its new large cocktail diamond rings using FVS diamonds. Besides the new rings, the company will showcase over 250 new designs, featuring coloured stone jewellery, and including many one-off pieces designed by Sheldon himself. Information: 0113 243 0100 or heidi@sheldonbloomfield.co.uk IJL stand: i10

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Pearls

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Focus on

pearls

ne of the most talked-about trends on the spring/summer 2012 catwalks was a revival of the iconic Jazz Age fashions of the ‘Roaring Twenties’, partly inspired by Baz Luhrmann’s upcoming new film adaption of The Great Gatsby for which Ralph Lauren created the costumes. As Shawna Roberts of Overstock.com says, “ladies attending lawn parties will need long pearl necklaces to accessorise the flowery prints and lightweight silks that define this revival, and over-the-top opulence will be right at home at a Roaring Twenties dance party. Ornate pearl bracelets with sparkling gemstone clasps also fit into this style, as do dazzling pearl and diamond earrings.” Other trends tipped for big things in the latter half of 2012 are colourful variants – such as South Sea, Tahitian and metallic pearls – and the rise of large, imperfect, organic shapes, perfect for baroque-styled

Jewellery FOCUS

The Roaring Twenties are back – and they’re dripping with pearls. Jon Chapple finds out how retailers can capitalise on 2012’s return to the Jazz Age earrings and pendants. Pearls are also traditionally associated as a birthstone with the month of June, meaning retailers can capitalise on their seasonal value too. Established in 1916 as the first company in western Europe to import and sell Japanese cultured pearls, Samuel Jones Pearls specialises in providing “the highest quality pearl products in classic and contemporary designs, at very competitive prices.” The company says it regularly searches the world to find its pearls, and every one is handselected by an owner with over 30 years of industry experience. Samuel Jones has an extensive range of fine quality South Sea, Tahitian, cultured and freshwater pearls, as well as an ever-changing range of nine- and 18-carat jewellery. It can supply individual pearls, restring existing rows or create bespoke pieces for its customers using in-house designers, and also provides a competitive

stringing service with the ability to deliver a 24-hour return service. “Our expert knowledge and experience means that we are very comfortable with advising our customers and are always happy to help. Our commitment to customer service is driven by our quest to continually provide the very best service available,” the company adds. Nexus Pearls says it has observed an increase in demand for both certificated jewellery and higher quality Japanese Akoya cultured pearls over the last few years, and has responded with a new collection of ‘Hanadama’ Akoya pearls. These special certified collections offer top-quality cultured pearls, all individually certified by the independent Japanese Pearl Science Laboratory, and come complete with unique certificates and presentation cases, helping to boost both retailer and customer confidence in the quality of the product. The new collections sit alongside an extensive range of high quality Akoya cultured pearls, clasps and other jewellery and freshwater, South Sea and Tahitian pearls in necklaces, jewellery and loose.

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August 2012

Pearls

La10 – its name a play on the Iron Age La Tène culture, noted for its Celtic art – is a joint venture by brother and sister Philip Hynd and Jennifer Robson. A recent graduate of the Glasgow School of Art, Philip draws his design influence from the rich heritage of architecture, floral decoration of the 19th century and linear, geometric forms of modernism. Pictured are La10’s Open Pearl ring and Pearl Dome pendant, both with vintage Akoya pearl and etched floral pattern, and available in sterling silver or with ruthenium plating and supplied in a quality presentation box. Following what Pearls of the Orient describes as a “summer of celebration” and with the festive season soon to be upon us, the Haslemere-based brand has added a four-strand white cultured freshwater pearl necklace with diamante clasp set in sterling silver to its collection. The company offers an extensive range of affordably-priced freshwater pearl jewellery in an array of designs suitable for jewellers, gift shops and fashion boutiques.

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Lido Collection says that its pearl jewellery bridges the gap between high fashion and classic design. Lido’s design ethos is to always use the highest quality pearls and combine unusual shapes, natural and dyed 5 colours and other materials to offer designs that will appeal to all ages and budgets. New from Lido Collection this season is a comprehensive collection of bridal jewellery, including delicate single rows and pendants, statement necklaces and multi-row collars with crystals, plus a number of on-trend, vintage-inspired pieces. In addition, the company’s best-selling seven-strand illusion necklace is now available in 23 colours with matching bracelet and stud or drop earrings.

1) 2) 3) 4) 5)

La10: 01355 244 493 (IJL stand C19) Lido Collection: 01245 360 949 (IJL stand C119) Nexus Pearls: 0121 554 9999 (IJL stand H61) Pearls of the Orient: 01483 205 820 (IJL stand E59) Samuel Jones Pearls: 01386 41430 (IJL stand i60)

Jewellery FOCUS

August 2012

A day at the Office

Sampling Fashion jewellery is subjected to rigorous testing under law, to ensure it does not contain any harmful elements, or harmful levels of certain elements. Samplers Debbie Cotterill and Linda Long outline the processes involved

ollow the faint trail of sparkles and sequins from the car park into the Birmingham Assay Office, and it will lead you to the Laboratory, and the benches of Linda Long and Debbie Cotterill, two expert samplers. Dubbed the ‘disco divas’ because they are constantly covered in glitter, these two ladies spend their days painstakingly removing layers of paint, metallic coating, glue and glitter from articles submitted for testing. Their benches are heaped with fashion jewellery, watches, hairbands, disco boppers and many other accessories, sporting a rainbow of colours and sparkling with imitation gemstones and sequins. Children’s articles are particularly prevalent, as they are the most heavily regulated. These items are submitted for testing by BS:EN 71-3 to ensure compliance with the existing Toy Safety Regulations and new EU Toy Directive, specifically the migration of toxic elements, which include lead, cadmium, mercury and arsenic among others. Other items are to be tested for compliance with the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) Directive in respect of cadmium, and

August 2012

the forthcoming restriction on lead, which will be introduced in 2013. Cadmium is widely used in the jewellery industry, despite having long been recognised as a toxin and a known carcinogen, harmful when ingested or inhaled. Concerns have been accelerated by a recent trend for Far East manufacturers to substitute cadmium for lead, which is now tightly restricted in many countries. Increasing focus on consumer and employee health and safety has resulted in measures to restrict the use of cadmium. The EU extended the restrictions of the REACH Directive to include cadmium, and this has been enforceable since December 2011. For jewellery, the regulation restricts cadmium content to 0.01 per cent (100mg/kg) by weight of the metal, and this applies to “metal beads and other metal jewellery components, metal parts of jewellery and imitation jewellery articles and hair accessories (ie bracelets, necklaces, rings, piercing jewellery, wristwatches, wrist-wear, hair accessories, brooches, cufflinks).” Lead will also be included in the scope of the REACH Directive, due to its toxicity. Regular ingestion of even

small quantities can result in severe and irreversible neuro-behavioural and neuro-developmental effects. Children are particularly susceptible while their central nervous system is still developing and their tendency to ‘mouth’ or suck things makes them particularly vulnerable. Annex 63 of REACH will restrict the concentration of lead to 0.05 per cent by weight. This will apply to any individual part of jewellery and imitation jewellery articles and hair accessories, including bracelets, necklaces, rings, piercing jewellery, wristwatches, wrist-wear, brooches and cufflinks. Companies and individuals at all stages of the supply chain will clearly have to respond to the regulation’s requirements by ensuring that their products are compliant, hence the influx of work for the ‘disco divas’. The methods for cadmium and lead testing under REACH require every component to be tested individually. This does not just refer to each bead or charm, but also to each separate layer of paint and varnish. BS:EN 71-3 testing for the migration of toxic elements under the Toy Directive is

Jewellery FOCUS

A day at the Office FOCUS ON THE EXPERTS

even more rigorous, demanding that every single separate colour, thread and speck of glue be separated. This requires concentration, expert handling of the ‘pinky’ used for scraping, and sometimes quite a lot of pressure. Debbie and Linda have had to re-focus a lifetime of expertise to take on this role. Originally working in the Sampling department of the Birmingham Assay Office, they undertook three years of rigorous training to ensure they could use touch acids to check the fineness of gold, silver and platinum prior to sampling, and then dextrously remove tiny samples for assay. Such samples had to be taken from an unobtrusive place, with a minute amount removed from several pieces to obtain a sufficient amount for testing by cupellation. The advent of X-ray fluorescence assaying for hallmarking significantly reduced the need to scrape samples, and Debbie and Linda are now wielding their pinkies in a very different way. For EN 71-3 in particular, every scrap of coating must be removed, and their softly, softly approach has been replaced with a rigorous stripping down. This is truly destructive testing,

but it still requires huge care, expertise and understanding of the construction of the item. Debbie says: “No two items are the same. Everything we pick up is different and you have to know what you are doing. Many of the costume jewellery articles we get that look like metal are in fact plastic, and you need to make sure you have discovered all of the layers.” But it is not about brute force; Linda shows a set of lightweight, glittery, Indian-style bangles. She needs to remove every different colour, plus the ‘gemstones’ and the glitter; but press too hard on the flimsy metal and the pinky will carve straight through, ruining the sample. The samples obtained are sometimes tiny and every scrap has to be carefully collected together for weighing. Herbie Sisodia, another long-term employee of the Assay Office, focuses on weighing. A sample may be as small as 10 milligrams and the careful separation of components and their accurate weighing to three decimal points are crucial to the remainder of the process. Patience, precision, accuracy and, most of all, experience are vital.

From left to right: Linda Long, Debbie Cotterill, Herbie Sisodia

Jewellery FOCUS

Debbie Cotterill and Linda Long

Debbie Cotterill and Linda Long have worked as samplers at the Birmingham Assay Office for 25 years and 23 years respectively. Their initial three-year training period provided a comprehensive grounding in sampling and touch acid testing, and their 20 years’ experience since then has turned them into the experts they are today.

The Birmingham Assay Office was founded in 1773 to provide a hallmarking facility to the rapidly expanding local silver trade. Over nearly 240 years it has become established as the largest UK assay office. During the past decade it has expanded its services further, far beyond its statutory assaying and hallmarking duties, and offers independent expert opinion and training on every aspect of the precious metal, jewellery and gemstone trade.

August 2012

TAKING STOCK

¬¬

European Diamond Reports (EDR) of Hatton Garden has launched a second generation, full-size Diamond Report, with a new cover design as well as enhanced security and tamperproof features. “In the last five years European Diamond Reports has established itself on its reputation and ability to grade diamonds with a passion and commitment to the local jewellery industry, and our customers. We are also the only diamond grading lab to offer customers a sameday turnaround, on all diamond and jewellery reports,” says managing director Avi BenEzra. Information: 0207 404 6094 or www.diamond-reports.com

Takin Taking

stock

Karma Jewellery describes its design inspirations as having come from “travel and customs, fashion and trends.” The range is diverse and distinctive, from old-style curiosities to head-turning statement pieces. The ‘Stardust’ collection, for example, offers military polished pieces, while the ‘Majestic Collection’ celebrates royal style. Other key collections include ‘Geometric Grandeur’, ‘High Society’ and ‘Something Old, Something New’. Information: 028 9047 3483, enquiries@karma-jewellery.com or www.karma-jewellery.com

Norman Collins’ book and workshop manual The Ultimate Guide to Lost Wax Casting is the product of a lifelong ambition and 60-year career. Having recently retired, Norman wanted to share his experience to give casters, new and old, a useful and informative guide to the process he has developed and mastered over the past six decades. The book gives an informative insight into the lost wax casting process, including origins, development and uses both throughout history and in the present day. Information: 01935 422 022, norman.collins@lost-wax-casting.com or www.lost-wax-casting.com

¬¬

CARAT* has launched a new collection of bracelets to represent its young and edgy side. The Chelsea Bracelet collection is inspired by the ‘Chelsea girls’ of New York and London, featuring a variety of pop culture symbols. Made of sterling silver with platinum vermeil and 18 carat yellow gold vermeil, the motifs include stars, hearts, lips, flip flops and more. Information: www.carat.co

August 2012

Jewellery FOCUS

TAKING STOCK

±±

Bowjangles (Midlands Ltd) offers highly competitive rates for precious metals, diamonds, luxury watches and international currencies. The company says that “all deals, from £1 to £100,000, are treated with the same care and attention to detail,” and it strives to provide great customer satisfaction by operating transparently with every deal made. Information: 0121 554 8917 (Jonathan)

¯¯

An expert in jewellery industry security, Associated Security Solutions is offering Jewellery Focus readers a free security audit. The company is a jewellery insurance approved supplier comprised of a team of experienced safe engineers and locksmiths, and has been established for 75 years. It can supply, deliver and install a full range of security solutions such as safes, locks and access control systems. Managing director Stephen Turner says: “Thanks to our extensive knowledge and experience of working with the jewellery industry, we can advise and provide bespoke solutions to ensure jewellery businesses have an appropriate and robust system for protecting their staff, customers and stock from the threat of crime.” Information: 0800 163 212 or info@associated-security.co.uk

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Designer Hazel Atkinson has added new colours to her successful, hand-crafted Natural Selection range. The colour way entitled ‘Seed Pod’ (pictured) is made up of a bold floral print on a purple background, whilst ‘Breeze’ has an autumnal theme of floating leaves. The range is made from hand-painted anodised aluminium, making the products tough and durable but also light and wearable. Information: www.hazelatkinsonjewellery.co.uk

Goldline Design has been repairing and re-springing watch links, watch bracelets and bangles since 1988. Based in Essex, the company also makes and fits handmade watch clasps and ladders in sterling silver; nine carat yellow and white gold; 18 carat yellow and white gold; and platinum. Single links can be made and fitted to most bracelets, and the company offers other services including complete refurbishment of watch cases and bracelets; polishing and re-rhodium; bracelet removal; and fitting of strap lugs. Nine or 18 carat buckles can also be supplied and fitted. Information: 01702 543 100 (Terry) or tcawston15@gmail.com

Jewellery FOCUS

August 2012

Jewellery FOCUS

Online retailing

High-end ecommerce Jonathan Ross, business development director at FACT-Finder, looks at the changing attitudes to online retailing in the luxury jewellery market, and the steps retailers can take to capitalise on this shift

espite the sales potential offered by the online channel, it has taken many years for the luxury sector as a whole to shake off its attachment to high-quality advertising in traditional channels. In fact, many still view the internet as ‘not for them’. However, a recent study by McKinsey and Altagamma, the Italian association of luxury brands, appears to finally dispel the idea that online shopping is the preserve of discounted brands and shoppers looking to pick up a bargain. As far as the luxury category was concerned, there was always a nagging suspicion that shoppers needed to experience a tactile relationship with their potential purchases in a way that could never be achieved online. The McKinsey study surveyed more than 300 luxury brands, 700 websites and more than 2.5 million online comments, including those on social media platforms. Digital sales are expected to reach about £12 billion in the luxury market by 2016, but the survey also found that use of the internet by consumers for research and price comparison meant that about 15 per cent of total sales in the luxury goods industry are directly generated by digital media. As much as a fifth of store sales (a market worth in the region of £27 billion) is said to be directly influenced by the online experience. As attitudes within the industry have begun to evolve, high-end jewellery brands have started to explore the potential of more sophisticated websites, user-friendly shopping apps and well produced video content, as well as daring to embrace social media platforms. This change in attitude is definitely a step in the right direction, however for larger jewellery retailers stocking a range of items from different brands this poses the problem of reflecting those brands in their own stores. There are three key areas that retailers need to focus on to ensure they deliver the online experience that consumers expect from high-end jewellery brands:

1: The website

This might sound like an obvious place to start, but luxury brands enjoy a certain degree of freedom that other commercial brands lack. Customers come to a particular brand site because they are looking for luxury, and not because a brand returned highest in Google search results. Once they get there, they should experience the



Jewellery FOCUS

August 2012

Online retailing

If som eone searching for Bulgari or Cartier items is presented with a fully branded page rather than just a list of individual products, they are likely to build a stronger bond with your shop

same sense of luxury that the brand would like to identify within a physical store. This means that user experience is key, with intuitive navigation and elegant execution being top priorities. For the larger retailers, the best way to reflect these experiences across their site for individual brands is through the use of branded landing pages. Using landing pages can act as a key trigger for converting site visitors to customers by underlining that the person searching has come to the right products or offers, and they can also carry prominent calls to action to directly drive sales. With customers being presented with so many options these days in online shops, and with the web making it so much easier to check other sites and compare them, creating the best possible experience for your customers is essential. Landing pages can be an important tool in this process, for example if someone searching for Bulgari or Cartier items is presented with a fully branded page rather than just a list of individual products, they are likely to build a stronger bond with your shop as they will perceive that it is catering much more to their needs, and this can also engender a greater sense of trust.

2: Service

Closely linked to the idea of a luxury user experience, comes service. Again, this might seem like an obvious statement, but when it comes to ecommerce it is the small details that can elevate the customer experience. Luxury often implies ‘unapproachable’, which is a problem when it comes to ecommerce. Shoppers need to be able to feel they can contact you easily if they have any issues with an order. Simple checks can be added in the online purchasing process to help customers ensure they receive the product they are expecting.

3: Embrace multi-channel and make informed commerce decisions

Luxury brand retailers can leverage return on investment through a multichannel approach. Pulling in data from bricks and mortar retail sites and measuring online click values can help sort online searches effectively. Customer reviews, and even a brand blog to drive traffic to key products should also be considered. But this then raises the issue of effective handling of the levels of data that come with these channels. One of the hot topics across the internet is ‘big data’ – which refers to exactly this. It is particularly relevant for retailers who may carry a range of products from different suppliers and sell to different countries, where they need to make sure that everything from sizing, finish or design through to different product attributes is consistent across all brands. Up until now most retailers – particularly those working in the luxury sector – have gone through this process manually. Every time a new catalogue comes in they have to proof it and input the data, which is an incredibly resource-hungry process. However, developments in data handling technology now mean that this process can be automated. This not only makes it less resource heavy but also means different attributes can be found and therefore different merchandising opportunities uncovered. While many retailers are too small to worry about big data, it is still an incredibly powerful tool to help drive informed commerce decisions – from getting the right products recommended to customers, to incorporating data from bricks and mortar stores in order to account for preferences and buying trends. One of the key reasons that retailers report low conversion from recommendations is because the data isn’t correct, which means that too many sites are showing products that have small similarities but not products that are most relevant. Improve data quality and you improve recommendations, and this means increased conversion. Broadly speaking, the rules for luxury ecommerce are the same as those for more everyday products, but if special attention is paid to the user experience and customer approval rates, luxury jewellery brand retailers will be well placed to take full advantage of the exciting growth in the online retail sector. FACT-Finder’s intelligent on-site search and navigation solution is used worldwide in 24 languages across 26 countries and in more than 1,000 shops. Fifty-one of the top100 online retailers in Germany have integrated FACT-Finder’s error-tolerant product search into their ecommerce sites, increasing their sales by 10 to 33 per cent in the process. For more information please visit

August 2012

Jewellery FOCUS

August 2012

WATCH FOCUS

Combining a utilitarian feel with an authentic vintage finish, Fossil’s Dress Leather Watch (model DE5009) incorporates Vintage Bronze, which is specially crafted to retain its patina over time. “We’re excited to introduce Vintage Bronze, a brand new watch material developed just for us. We added a genuine leather strap with tonal stitching to perfectly complement our most vintage style yet,” the brand explains. Also available is the Nate Leather Watch (model JR1369), with rose accents, a black dial, and a rich leather strap. Information: 0844 412 3276 or www.fossil.co.uk RRP: £125 (model DE5009) or £145 (model JR1369)

Watch focus Guess launched its watch collection, Guess Watches, in 1983 with a line of men’s and women’s fashion timepieces. Consistent with the Guess image, the watches evolve to suit contemporary trends. This ‘Sparkler’ Guess ladies watch features a polished silver case with stones around the bezel, glossy white multi-functional dial and a navy silicone stray with G stone feature. Information: 01604 678 940 RRP: £129

First launched in 1985 in Italy, the Hip Hop brand was one of the biggest success stories in the history of the Binda Group. Just over 25 years later, Hip Hop is back on the scene, and this summer launches a range of watches for those who enjoy wild nights. By day they feature translucent straps and muted dials, however when the lights go out, the collection comes alive. The watches are available in both a 32 and 40 millimetre size. Information: 01628 770 988 RRP: £24.99

August 2012

Jewellery FOCUS

SELLING

Features and benefits This month, Brad Huisken continues his series on the demonstration stage of a sale, this time explaining how to promote the features of a product to create value in the eyes of the customer

he primary strategy to create value in your products is ‘features, benefits, and agreement’, or FBAs. First, we need to define what features and benefits actually mean in relationship to the demonstration, and then learn how to gain our customers’ agreement. The definition of ‘feature’ is: something important or outstanding that the manufacturer, provider or seller has included with, eliminated from, or made available in the product or service. Or, in other words, what the product has. Every piece of jewellery has numerous features. Let’s look at some examples: Diamond ring Each of the 4 Cs (cut, colour, clarity, carat); six-prong head; comfort fit band; 14 carat gold; channel set; platinum; side stones.

Watch Two-tone band; white face; water resistant; quartz movement; kinetic; sapphire crystal; second hand; day and date.

Earrings Solid gold post; push-on backs; screw-off backs; four- to six-prong setting; the 4 Cs; large table of the diamonds.

There may be dozens of features that each piece of jewellery may or may not have. The confusion doesn’t come in determining what the features of our products are, but rather in finding out which specific features are important to the individual prospect. The definition of a ‘benefit’ is: what the feature will do for, or give to, the prospect. We need to understand that prospects don’t buy features. What they do buy is the benefit of the feature and what it will do for them. We all want our purchases to do something for us, don’t we? This is the reason that we need to discover not only what the customers’ needs are, but also why they need the item. Some examples of benefits are: Diamond ring Watch Feature Six-prong head Two-tone band Benefit Will make your diamond very secure.

Will be versatile to wear with dress and casual.

Earrings Screw-off backs Unlikely to fall out.

Here you see that the importance of presenting your features and benefits based on the needs assessment is monumental. All too often in selling situations, the only reason the prospect buys

August 2012

is because their wants and needs accidentally match with what the salesperson likes about the product. The definition of an ‘agreement question’ is: a question that is asked to gain agreement (a ‘yes’ answer) on the feature and benefit. Applying this to the previous scenarios, examples of agreement questions could be as follows: Watch Two-tone band Benefit Will be versatile to wear with dress and casual. Agreement Security is As you an important mentioned, consideration, versatility is isn’t it? important, isn’t it? Feature

Diamond ring Six-prong head Will make your diamond very secure.

Earrings Screw-off backs Unlikely to fall out.

Knowing you won’t lose your earrings is comforting, don’t you think?

While I agree these FBAs sound a bit ridiculous written on paper, I guarantee that your prospects will love them, and react to them, when spoken. Again, the trick is to make your FBAs as customised and personally appealing to the prospect as possible. The only way this can happen is through a complete needs assessment. You may now be wondering how to word your FBAs. They should be worded as follows: “One of the nice things about this ____ is that it has ____ which means ____.” Or: “One of the great features about this ____ is ____ making it ____.” The reason to start your first FBA with: “One of the nice things…” or: “One of the great features…” or similar, is because these words imply that there are numerous nice or great things about your product. A complete FBA may sound something like the following: “One of the great things about this diamond ring is that the diamond is mounted in a six-prong head, which makes the diamond very secure, and as you mentioned security is important to you, true?”

Jewellery FOCUS

SELLING

“One of the great features about this watch is that it has a two-tone band, which makes it very versatile, and being able to wear it for both dress and casual was a consideration, wasn’t it?”

Crown

jewel

“Something you’ll love about these earrings is that they have a screw-off back, which means you won’t lose them anywhere near as easily as the other earrings you mentioned. Nice, aren’t they?” There is no exact answer as to how many FBAs you should give during your demonstration; it depends on the technical aspect, or possibly the price point, of your products. The real answer lies in how many FBAs it will take to create enough value in the mind of your prospects for them to be willing to exchange their money for your product. In some situations two or three FBAs would be plenty, while in other, higherpriced or more technical presentations, it may take five or six. If you need any more than this, give or take a couple, it is probably due to the lack of a complete needs assessment. Is it possible to sell something after demonstrating only one item? Sure – you have probably even sold a very expensive product or service on one demo. However, these occasions don’t occur very often, and in most cases you will have to demonstrate a variety of FBAs. The number of similar items you need to demonstrate depends on the specific product or service you sell, along with your ability to develop trust and value, and to pinpoint your customers’ exact needs and wants. If you feel you are not getting very good indicators from your prospects during your demonstration, it may be time to go back to the needs assessment. You should be able to see the answer in their eyes and tell from their body language once you have gathered enough information. Remember, the eyes are the windows to the soul – watch for the indicators during your demonstration. The professional will fine-tune this strategy to the point where he or she is giving FBAs on the more in-depth personal or emotional reasons why people buy their products, rather than purely on the superficial or technical features that average salespeople will draw from their prospects. After all, when selling jewellery, you are selling love and romance rather than simply gold and diamonds. A good example of selling based on personal needs comes from one particular salesman in the jewellery industry. When he is showing jewellery as a gift for a spouse he uses this agreement question: “How do you truly let your wife know you love her with a washing machine? This piece of jewellery will let her know how much she means to you, won’t it?” He has really fine-tuned his skills. Sharpen your skills by working on your features, benefits, and agreement questions; and always remember that selling is a circle of steps, which will lead your prospects to say “yes” – that is what you want to hear, isn’t it?

Judit B’s Stacked Rose Gold Rings

“Edgy, yet delicate; modern, yet timeless – I would consider my ‘crowning glory’ to be the Stacked Rose Gold Rings (pictured above). The square rings are a signature look for the JuditB brand, and rose gold is a huge trend right now, and very unusual. The stacked rings also feature beautiful pave-set stones, perfect for adding a touch of glamour whenever required.” – JuditB. Edgy and architectural, the square rings can be dressed up or down with small or large jewels, mixed metals and a variety of textures that represent different moods, whilst still maintaining an air of elegance. Also pictured (below) are Stacked Rings in yellow gold plated silver. Information: judit@juditb.com

Author, trainer, consultant and speaker Brad Huisken is president of IAS Training and authored the books and . He developed the PMSA Relationship Selling Program, the PSMC Professional Sales Management Course, the Mystery Shoppers Kit, the Employee Handbook and Policy & Procedures Manual, and the Weekly Sales Training Meeting series, along with aptitude tests and proficiency exams for new hires, current sales staff and sales managers, and the new Weekly Internet Sales Training Series. In addition, he publishes a free weekly newsletter called Sales Insight. For a free subscription or more information, contact IAS Training on 001 800 248 7703, or

Jewellery FOCUS

August 2012

DATA

Prices • Figures • Outlook Retail sales volume: May 2012 This May’s estimated all retail sales volumes index saw an increase of 2.4 per cent in comparison to May 2011, and an increase of 1.4 per cent compared with April 2012. The estimated all retail sales value index was up by 3.3 per cent compared with the same time last year, and increased by one per cent compared with last month. Store price inflation saw its lowest rate since October 2009 at 0.9 per cent. The Consumer Prices Index decreased to 2.8 per cent in May, which is its lowest rate since November 2009. Meanwhile, the estimated total non-seasonally-adjusted value of spending in the retail sector for May was £26.4 billion, compared with £26 billion last month, and £25.6 billion in May 2011. In May 2012 the average weekly non-seasonally-adjusted value of spending in the retail sector was estimated to be £6.6 billion. David Kern, chief economist at the British Chambers of Commerce, said: “This increase in sales proves that excessive pessimism over the state of the UK economy is unjustified. Falling inflation is clearly playing a role in reviving consumer demand.” Taking a closer look at the non-food ‘other stores’ category, sales volumes increased by 1.4 per cent in the year to May 2012, while sales values decreased by 0.6 per cent over the same period. Average prices are estimated to have fallen by 1.9 per cent in the year to May 2012, which is the largest fall since July 2009 (2.2 per cent). Non-seasonally-adjusted average weekly internet sales values in May 2012 were estimated to be £510.9 million – an increase of 21.6 per cent when compared with May 2011. Internet sales are now estimated to account for 8.8 per cent of all retail sales values, excluding automotive fuel. The year-on-year growth of all internet retailing in May stands at 21.6 per cent, with the all non-food category contributing 41.4 per cent of the sales. Source: ONS

Metal Prices £/Unit

May 12

Jun 12

Jul 12

% Change

Sterling Silver £/Kg

549.69

549.76

525.46

Minus 4%

Gold £/g

32.35

33.27

32.90

Minus 1%

Palladium £/g

12.92

12.87

12.06

Minus 6%

Platinum £/g

30.43

30.04

29.83

Minus 1%

Rhodium £/g

27.61

26.02

25.83

Minus 1%

Iridium £/g

21.65

22.58

22.41

Minus 1%

Ruthenium £/g

2.30

2.40

2.39

No Change

Scrap Metal £/Unit

May 11

Jun 12

Jul 12

% Change

Sterling Silver Scrap £/Kg

516.11

516.18

493.36

Minus 4%

9ct Gold Scrap £/g

11.71

12.04

11.90

Minus 1%

14ct Gold Scrap £/g

18.26

18.78

18.57

Minus 1%

18ct Gold Scrap £/g

23.41

24.08

23.81

Minus 1%

22ct Gold Scrap £/g

28.60

29.40

29.08

Minus 1%

Platinum (95%) Scrap £/g

24.57

24.26

24.17

No Change

Data supplied courtesy of Cookson Precious Metals. www.cooksongold.com All prices shown on this page enjoy indicative status only. Jewellery Focus and Cookson Precious Metals accepts no responsibility for their accuracy or for any use to which they may be put

Diamond prices Weight

G/VVS

G/SI

J/VVS

J/SI

J/I1

0.05 Carat

1,790

985

1,235

895

788

0.10 Carat

1,719

1,097

1,657

982

737

0.25 Carat

2,777

1,535

2,321

1,304

890

0.50 Carat

7,565

3,412

4,821

2,967

2,522

0.75 Carat

9,309

5,586

6,087

4,153

3,294

1.00 Carat

16,435

8,701

10,962

7,043

4,558

The table above has been prepared by SafeGuard and is an average of the retail selling prices of round brilliant cut diamonds per carat including an average retail markup and VAT. There is no allowance for the mount but the prices have been taken from mounted goods prices. The table is also compared with International diamond prices for additional accuracy. Compiled at 29th June 2012 / Dollar Exchange Rate 1.5640

August 2012

Jewellery FOCUS

DATA

Hallmark figures - June 2012

Hallmark figures - Q2

Jun 11

Jun 12

Variance

1,169 621 448,761 120 450,671

43,987 258 290,107 5 334,357

42,818 -363 -158,654 -115 -116,314

3,662.8 -58.5 -35.4 -95.8 -25.8

88 0 31,702 77,578 7,415 262,974 379,757

23 1 26,552 69,993 5,074 256,431 358,074

-65 1 -5,150 -7,585 -2,341 -6,543 -21,683

-73.9 100 -16.2 -9.8 -31.6 -2.5 -5.7

5 21,279 13 1 21,298

1 23,121 27 2 23,151

-4 1,842 14 1 1,853

-80 8.7 107.7 100 8.7

9,116 248 9,364

2 11,075 5,360 16,437

2 1,959 5,112 7,073

100 21.5 2,061.3 75.5

861,090

732,019

-129,071

-15

Silver

Variance

Silver 999 958 925 800

Gold

999 958 925 800

4,360 1,532 1,238,343 127 1,244,362

47,753 2,150 956,354 17 1,006,274

43,393 618 -281,989 -110 -238,088

995.3 40.3 -22.8 -86.6 -19.1

137 8 87,308 203,858 15,779 621,690 928,780

121 234 88,094 206,352 13,604 729,114 1,037,519

-16 226 786 2,494 -2,175 107,424 108,739

-11.7 2,825 0.9 1.2 -13.8 17.3 11.7

20 61,527 32 9 61,588

9 68,745 38 21 68,813

-11 7,218 6 12 7,225

-55 11.7 18.8 133.3 11.7

2 29,147 1,746 30,895

135 35,519 10,082 45,736

133 6,372 8,336 14,841

6,650 21.9 477.4 48

2,265,625

2,158,342

-107,283

-4.7

Gold 999 990 916 750 585 375

Platinum

999 990 916 750 585 375 Platinum

999 950 900 850 Palladium 999 950 500

Total

Quarter Jun 11 Quarter Jun 12

The total number of units hallmarked by the four UK assay offices was down 15 per cent in June 2012 compared to the same month in 2011. While gold articles fell by 5.7 per cent and silver articles were down 25.8 per cent, platinum and palladium were up 8.7 per cent and 75.5 per cent respectively. Source: Birmingham Assay Office

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999 950 900 850 Palladium 999 950 500

Total

Stay informed... Visit

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AMBER JEWELLERY

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Your Views

Voice

on the

highstreet

Derek Telles, managing director, Master Goldsmiths When did you establish Master Goldsmiths?

Master Goldsmiths was started in December 2011. Jewellery retail and repair is a competitive market with discerning quality and price conscious clients. Like any business we are facing challenging times, but the jewellery industry is very creative and vibrant, offering a stunning range of products, so we continue to focus on providing the fine products and services that our customers want, at prices they appreciate.

Which services do you offer?

Because Master Goldsmiths has an attractive retail shop in the centre of Tamworth, we are able to offer a beautiful range of jewellery and gift items for sale; but we also have the space and expertise to run jewellery and watch repair services. Our on-site goldsmiths and customer service staff have over 25 yearsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; experience in the trade. This allows us to maintain our strong reputation for swift, secure, high quality, value-for-money repair, restoration and design services. We offer while-you-wait, one-hour and same-day jewellery repair, plus watch battery replacement with a two-year guarantee and watch strap replacement or alteration. We also have a reputation for providing reliable, fast, friendly, expert services to both the trade and public, including engraving (inside or outside of rings) in most

metals; stringing; jewellery restyling; ring resizing; precious and semi-precious stone sourcing or setting; claw replacing; cleaning; polishing; plating; and pin and fastener replacement. If dexterity or swollen fingers are a problem, we can make rings or neck and wrist jewellery easier to fasten or wear using attractive and affordable techniques. Our watch repair services include glass or crown and stem replacement; case cleaning; or a full service on almost any make of watch. Most of our services are available with a free, no obligation estimate of cost and time.

Is Tamworth a good place to do business? Is there a lot of competition?

Tamworth is a medium-sized, attractive market town with popular street markets on Tuesday and Saturday. People are drawn into the town centre by these and the other businesses which trade either five, six or seven days a week. There are several quality independent and chain store jewellery retailers in Tamworth. This enables customers to access many major brands, as well as bespoke, vintage and unbranded jewellery. Master Goldsmiths does have the advantage of the aforementioned on-site goldsmiths, and being close to the jewellery quarter means we can access a wide range of high quality, specialist services at very competitive prices.

ď&#x192;&#x160;

Your Views

Do you have any developments in the pipeline?

We are looking at new ideas (outside the box) and will soon be launching a new gift range made in silver with birthstones for under £20 retail, which will make a great gift for all occasions. We may also offer it wholesale to the trade, but I can’t say any more at this stage. Currently we enjoy a thriving trade in jewellery repair, creation and watch repair, so we are very interested in expanding these services to the trade and general public. To assist existing or prospective trade clients we have produced a detailed PDF and paper price lists for jewellery and watch repairs. We also have a double-sided A5 flyer, which promotes our services on one side, and Infinity Studios – a local wedding, studio and portrait photographer – on the other.

Do you currently have an online presence?

Currently we are working on developing an ecommerce website, which will enable customers to purchase items from the shop or access jewellery and watch repair services online. What do you think are the biggest challenges facing retailers like yourself? The increase in ecommerce in general has enabled retail customers to research and purchase a vast range of products and services at very competitive prices, and in certain cases online retailers can undercut high street retailers. Customers are also attracted by the ease of shopping online. To a certain degree high street jewellers are also competing with supermarkets and fashion and department stores, especially in the fashion jewellery sector. Keeping up with current customer expectations and trends is vital. Design, fashion, popular culture and visual marketing

August 2012

are all extremely important now. We have to maintain and, if possible, improve our high levels of customer service in order to compete. The cost of running premises on the high street increases each year, making it harder to compete with the increasingly popular out-of-town retail areas, but high street jewellers are able to offer swift, expert, face-to-face, bespoke, helpful, pleasant services in an attractive environment.

What is the price range of items you sell? From £5 to £3,000.

What is selling well at the moment?

Clogau, Sekonda and Skagen are our bestselling brands. White gold and silver have increased in popularity for all types and styles of jewellery; and magnet bracelets, silver baby bangles and a wide variety of rings are selling well. But over three quarters of the revenue from our business comes from our repair, restoration and bespoke services.

What do you enjoy most about working in the jewellery industry?

All of the team members at Master Goldsmiths take great pleasure in fulfilling customers’ jewellery and gift requirements. Helping people to purchase the perfect item or have their treasured piece repaired or restored is very rewarding. Our experience, expertise and efficient approach have ensured that we have already become a trusted name in the area, with a reputation for courteous, professional service, which we are now extending to the whole of the UK.

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August 2012

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August 2012