Jewellery Focus August 2010

Jewellery Focus

Jewellery August 2010 www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk £4.95

FOCUS

August 2010

Browse some of the innovative products and services that await you at IJL 2010 XX Patrick Fuller discusses his concerns and hopes for the future of the jewellery sector XX The properties and value of amber, and a selection of the latest jewellery designs

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CONTENTS

Jewellery FOCUS

August 2010 46

FEATURES

30

26

Conscious fashion

26

Rebecca Hoh discovers a decidedly less fickle fashion jewellery market, with consumers now demanding better quality, ethically considered, inspirational designs

The Fuller factor

30

Louise Hoffman catches up with Patrick Fuller to hear about his respected role within the jewellery industry, and his hopes and concerns for its future

Focus on amber

40 40

A jewellery material of choice throughout the ages, amber has been taken into the 21st century by designers around the globe. Sam Guiry takes a look at some of the collections now available

IJL preview

46

Prepare for your visit to International Jewellery London with this special preview of innovative and creative designs and valuable services that will be exhibited this year

REGULARS 20

Editor’s letter

12

Roundup

14

Janet Fitch

20

The latest news from the industry This month Janet brings us a variety of jewellery sector triumphs that have impressed her over the summer, from innovation in design to visual feasts in retail

Keith Fisher

36

Keith recounts the tale of a new recruit’s first experiences of working in jewellery retail, and the story behind a well-known highstreet name

90

44

Leonard Zell

62

Gems of a colour

66

Working with…

72

As IJL approaches, Syreeta Tranfield discusses a few of the highlights of this year’s show seminar programme

Going the extra mile will increase your jewellery sales and win your customers’ loyalty, says Leonard Zell In the second of this bi-monthly series, Gem-A’s Lorne Stather suggests some simple techniques to identify red stones and looks at the range of stones available on the market

Ones to watch

24

The Birmingham Assay Office’s senior valuer Phil Withington provides technical advice and discussion on the subject of amber

Michael Hoare

35

Taking stock

76

Events

80

Industry data

82

Voice on the highstreet

90

Trends in timepieces

66

22

Syreeta Tranfield

How realistic is it for the average retailer to source and track gold and gemstones from mine to market, asks Michael?

Designer of the month

With her jewellery quickly snapped up by several major art institutions, Justyna Niewiara is now gaining an international reputation with her lua lua brand

36

New offerings from the industry

Andrew and Debbie Marshall of Head and Hart, Maidstone

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EDITOR’S LETTER

Editor’s letter W

elcome to 2010’s special International Jewellery London preview issue! Inside you can have a sneak peek at many of the products and services that will be on show at the event, along with the stand numbers of the exhibitors, so that you can begin to plan your visit (page 46).

I am especially looking forward to wandering the aisles of the Design Gallery – sure to be an assembly of imaginationcapturing talent. Indeed, several of our past (and probably future!) Designers of the Month will be exhibiting there, and no doubt eager to welcome you at their stands.

On page 44, event manager Syreeta Tranfield also provides a run down of some of the free-to-attend seminars that are available to visitors, with highlights including Stephen Webster’s male jewellery market discussion, and the Great Debate, in partnership with the Birmingham Assay Office. NAG chief executive and Jewellery Focus columnist Michael Hoare will also be giving a presentation on the Wednesday, which will provide an update on the SaferGems initiative.

Creative design and quality manufacturing are of course at the heart of the event, which showcases the best of the British jewellery industry as well as the international industry. I caught up with Patrick Fuller, chairman of the WB Group (also exhibiting at IJL), to find out more about his long-held and pivotal role within the sector, and the importance he places upon the UK skills base (page 30).

And if you would like to view more of the eye-catching collections keeping the industry buoyant, you can find fashion jewellery and amber inspiration on pages 26 and 40 respectively.

Also helpful for your visit to this and other trade shows is the next in the Gems of a Colour series by Lorne Stather, Gem-A’s director of education. With a focus on red stones for August’s instalment, Lorne suggests some simple techniques that can be utilised at the counter to identify the different varieties of red stones (page 66).

For more information about IJL, look out for our September issue, which will include a full show guide as well as many more product highlights. And in the meantime, I hope you have a successful and enjoyable month!

Jewellery FOCUS

Editor

Louise Hoffman

louise@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Editorial Assistants Sam Guiry

sam@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

James Broomhead

james@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Production Editor Matt Bower

copy@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Group Advertisement Manager Kelly Smith

kelly@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Senior Sales Executive Russell Collins

russell@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Sales Executive Katie Thurgood

katie@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Accounts

Tina Pitcher

accounts@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Customer Services 01206 767 797

customers@mulberrypublications.co.uk

Contributing writers:

Janet Fitch • Keith Fisher Leonard Zell • Lorne Stather Michael Hoare • Rebecca Hoh Syreeta Tranfield

Design

Arthouse Publishing Solutions Ltd contact@arthousepublishing.co.uk

In support of:

Jewellery Focus

is published monthly by:

This month’s cover features GECKO

Gecko describes its Elements Silver range as having evolved into one of the most comprehensive collections of silver jewellery on the market. The new 2010-2011 launch demonstrates the company’s trademark creativity with fresh and modern styles as designed by the in-house team, as well as classic best selling pieces. Collections and Trinkets bring a new edge to the range with granulated coins, delicate flowers and nostalgic charms layered on extra long chains with hints of colour from crystals and two-tone finishes. These designs offer a range of options for mixing, layering or stacking.

Meanwhile the Pearl and Crystal ranges, popular for their contemporary classic themes, have been expanded with new colours and shapes for a more glamorous statement. New POS is also available.

Information: 01376 532 000 or sales@geckojewellery.com

Mulberry Publications Ltd

Mulberry Publications Ltd, Wellington House, Butt Road, Colchester CO3 3DA Tel: 01206 767 797 Fax: 01206 767 532 www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk

The editor and publishers do not guarantee the accuracy of statements made by contributors or advertisers, or accept responsibility for any statement that they express in this publication.

The opinion of the contributors may not necessarily be the opinion of the publishers. Articles are considered for publication on the basis that they are the author’s original work. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the permission of the publishers.

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ROUNDUP AND BRIEFLY WJCEF considers corporate responsibility The World Jewellery Confederation Education Foundation (WJCEF) launched its first ever Executive Course in Corporate Social Responsibility in Antwerp in June.

President of the World Jewellery Federation (CIBJO) and WJCEF Gaetano Cavalieri said the aim of the course was to ensure “the jewellery business acts proactively to bring about sustainable economic and social development in the countries in which we operate.” Participants came from all over the world including the US, UK, Switzerland, India and Canada and there was high praise for the levels of interactivity and engagement.

Man convicted for his part in the UK’s biggest jewellery heist A policeman’s son has been convicted for holding up a Mayfair store at gunpoint and stealing over £40 million of diamonds.

Aman Kassaye, 25, was found guilty of conspiracy to rob, kidnapping and possession of a firearm at Woolwich Crown Court.

Kassaye forced the staff at Graff Diamonds in Mayfair to hand over 43 pieces of jewellery including necklaces, earrings and watches. One of the items taken was valued at £3.5 million alone and so far none of the stolen jewellery has been recovered.

The police believe the raiders were stealing to order, with one officer remarking: “They knew exactly what they were looking for and we suspect they already [had] a market for the jewels.”

Another man – Thomas Thomas of East Finchley – has since been found guilty of conspiracy to rob and two further defendants have been cleared of the charge. The jury is currently considering charges on the three other defendants.

Bulova takes on new staff members Bulova UK Limited has appointed two new account managers – Roberta Foreman who will be dealing with the Midlands and the south, and Kyle Wilson who will be focusing on northern England and Scotland. Their primary responsibility will be to establish and develop the network of quality retail outlets that stock the Bulova and Bulova Accutron product ranges. General manager Gordon Dickens said: “These two new appointments demonstrate Bulova’s firm commitment to the UK market.”

The end for the Elgar note Retailers need no longer accept the £20 note depicting a portrait of Sir Edward Elgar. The Bank of England withdrew the notes at the end of June. Holders who may still have these notes will be allowed for several months to use them for deposit to customer accounts and for other customer transactions. The Bank of England advises that agreeing to exchange these notes is at the discretion of the individual institution.

They will always exchange any old notes and these can be presented either in person or by post to their premises in Threadneedle Street, London. Further details can be obtained from www.bankofengland.co.uk

‘Saviour’ of Swiss watchmaking dies The watch industry has lost one of its greatest entrepreneurs with the death of Nicolas Hayek, founder and chairman of the Swatch Group. He passed away due to heart failure aged 82, while working at the company.

Hayek has been widely credited as the saviour of the Swiss watch industry, having founded Swatch in 1985. At this time Japanese giants Seiko and Quartz were flooding the market with cheaper and more popular designs making the Swiss-produced mechanical, analogue timepieces look tired and outdated.

Today the brand has achieved iconic status and its chairman, fondly called ‘Mr Swatch’, has helped the company become the world’s biggest watchmaker, expecting to record sales of more than six billion Swiss francs (£3.7 billion) this year.

Chief executive officer Johann Rupert said: “Our industry has lost one of its champions, respected by everyone who dealt with him; a man of honour, gravitas and great personal charm.”

Diamonds are forever Over the last 20 years the price of five carats of diamonds has overtaken gold bullion, leading investors to consider it to be a long-term and secure investment.

Global demand for diamonds has surged, especially in China, and some of the greatest varieties and best prices can be sourced from reputable and secure sites on the internet.

In some instances savings of 40 to 60 per cent can be made compared to the high street. Traditional commissions or margins for diamond dealers, importers, wholesalers and retail jewellers are eliminated.

New technology for Tiffany & Co Tiffany & Co is taking its celebrated diamonds direct to the customer via an iPhone and iPod Touch application.

The ‘Engagement Ring Finder’ app was introduced as a result of growing customer demand for greater flexibility when shopping. The unique ring sizer lets users find their size by placing a ring directly on the screen. Customers can also browse the collection according to shape, setting, metal and design. Favourites can be saved and shared with family and friends via email, Facebook and Twitter.

New face of Faith Jewellery revealed Urban songstress Mz Bratt will promote Faith Jewellery, a leading jeweller for culturally-inspired fashion-wear in the UK. The company has signed the music artist as the face of the new range of classic and contemporary unisex timepieces from Christian Audigier.

The rising young star has collaborated with a host of R&B chart artists, including Tinchy Stryder, Taio Cruz, Sadie Ama and Grammy nominated US star Jazmine Sullivan, and the company feels she is the perfect choice to front Faith’s eclectic mix of tattooed-motif watch-wear from the legendary French designer.

Founder and CEO of Faith Jewellery David Fenton said: “Jewellery is all about making a positive statement, and Christian Audigier’s watch-wear, combined with the prowess of Mz Bratt, typifies everything that the fashion industry stands for in terms of promoting creativity and flair through art.”

Faith believes the new deal will enable the company to broaden its reach into a number of new territories in time for the autumn and winter seasons.

ROUNDUP

Awards for Britain’s emerging design talent New Designers 2010 marked its 25th anniversary this year and the event remains as fresh and inspiring now as when it was first launched in 1985.

Its aim is to propel the best of the country’s creative talent into the limelight and it continues to stand as testament to the flair of Britain’s young designers.

Designer Elizabeth Humble won the jewellery award with her range called ‘The Fragile Landscape’, which explores the delicate balance between man and the environment and includes brooches, rings and necklaces.

Judging the awards were Astley Clarke creative director Lorna Watson, silversmith Mary Ann Simmons, Goldsmiths’ director of technology and training Peter Taylor and his assistant Karin Paynter.

The Prime Warden of the Goldsmiths’ Company, Michael Galsworthy, presented Elizabeth with a prize of £1,500, made up of a cheque of £1,000 plus precious metal to the value of £500. In addition, this year’s jewellery award includes a mentoring programme with the highly esteemed and successful online jewellery boutique Astley Clarke.

Elizabeth said: “I am totally overwhelmed to receive the award and feel hugely honoured.

I am really looking forward to working with the design team at Astley Clarke as it will be the most amazing platform to help me launch myself into the jewellery world.”

Celebrities make time matter British celebrities have united to highlight the plight of refugees around the world with the Make your Time Matter campaign.

Jade Jagger, Emily Mortimer, Jo Wood, Sadie Frost and Jemima French of Frost French have all teamed up with watch brand Obaku Harmony by Ingersoll to create their own unique watch dial design. For every watch sold, US$20 will be donated to Refugees United.

The charity helps the 15 million refugees worldwide who have lost contact with their families either through war, disaster or displacement. Large numbers of refugees are facing an overwhelming task trying to track family members down as many live in extreme poverty and have no legal status. Refugees United provides a web-based secure family search engine that anonymously reconnects missing loved ones.

The watches take their name from a branch of Zen philosophy that looks for a sense of calm – free from all superfluous detail. This is then combined with Scandinavian minimalist design traditions to create a simple and elegant timepiece.

Jewellery designer launches new recycling initiative Online jewellery boutique Lumoi.com has launched a new recycling scheme in conjunction with London Jewellery Week.

Company founder Louise Hall wants to stop the large amounts of broken and unwanted jewellery ending up in landfill sites and is incorporating these recycled items into her own designs. She came up with the idea after re-working the broken pieces of jewellery that her friends and family members owned.

As a company that prides itself on ethical principles, she is hoping others will follow her pioneering lead. She said: “I understand many designers work with recycled materials but to the best of my knowledge, no one is offering a recycling service.”

Beaded jewellery of any kind can be recycled, as can loose or broken chains, pendants, necklaces, bracelets, earrings and brooches. However, for hygiene reasons the company won’t take any pieces that have been inserted into the skin such as nose or ear studs.

Recycled items can be sent to Lumoi and in return a voucher will be sent to the donor to spend on the range of jewellery on the company’s website.

AND BRIEFLY High street sales drop for a second month Recent figures from the CBI show that June was a bad month for retailers with sales falling for a second consecutive month.

More than 34 per cent of retailers surveyed did report a rise in sales during the first two weeks of June, but 39 per cent reported a drop. Retailers are hoping that sales will strengthen next month following the end of the World Cup.

Swatch appoints new chairwoman Following the sad news that Swatch’s founder Nicolas Hayek had died, his daughter Nayla Hayek has now succeeded him as chair of the board of directors.

She has been on the board of the Swatch Group since 1995 and was promoted to vice chair in May earlier this year. The unanimous decision was made at a meeting on 30 June, and it is hoped that the new chairwoman can boost Swatch’s profits.

Top Drawer returns Top Drawer, held from 12 to 14 September 2010, will once again bring together an inspirational showcase of over 700 carefully selected British and international suppliers in the Grand Hall at London’s Olympia.

In preparation for one of the most crucial periods for retailers, Top Drawer showcases the latest product launches, cutting edge designs and must-have products for the Christmas season. Advice is also on offer, through a comprehensive seminar programme with a speaker line-up of successful entrepreneurs and industry experts. For more information visit www.topdrawer.co.uk

Rise in the purchase of luxury items Wealthy Londoners are spending on luxury goods and services from top of the range cars to valuable pieces of art. Stonehage’s Affluent Luxury Living Index (SALLI) has shown that prices of luxury goods and services in the country’s capital are increasing at a cautious rate, indicating a recovery from the recession. Luxury consumables such as fine wines and caviar have risen by 24.1 per cent and investments in the ‘passion’ category, which includes cars, luxury clothing and jewellery showed a significant increase of five per cent.

Leicestershire’s jewellers get Smart security Jewellery shops in Leicester that have been hit by a series of robberies are to be given Smartwater by the police. Six reported raids in the Belgrave Road area in a year have prompted police to help improve security.

The installation of the Smartwater spray systems means intruders will be doused with a fine mist that can later forensically link them to any crime committed. Additional measures include extra police patrols and the installation of pavement bollards, as one of the raids saw the thieves drive a van through the front of a shop. Area commander for Leicestershire Police Ch Supt Rob Nixon said: “I wanted to meet personally with the owners of the businesses to reassure them that police in the city are taking these incidents very seriously and are doing all we can to trace those responsible.”

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ROUNDUP AND BRIEFLY Glass filled rubies swamping sector AnchorCert, the UK diamond and gemstone certification service, has reported an alarming rise in the number of glass filled rubies which have been bought in good faith as natural and untreated. Senior gemmologist Anu Manchanda explains: “This type of treatment has been around for a few years now, but we seem to have suddenly seen an unusually high number.”

In their natural form these stones are poor quality, dirty corundum which are subjected to bleaching to remove dark patches of colour and filled with molten coloured glass.

Turn to page 66 for more information.

Marange rough diamonds The president of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) Avi Paz has issued a stern warning to the jewellery industry, saying that diamonds should not be purchased from the Marange diamond fields in Zimbabwe until approved by the Kimberley Process. This troubled region has seen widespread abuses of human rights and Paz cautions that “the integrity of the global diamond industry and trade must be protected and its products must remain untainted.” He also called upon governments and members of the diamond industry to work together towards a solution to the Marange issue.

High-end designer launches budget range Jewellery designer to the rich and famous Theo Fennell, whose pieces can command up to £250,000 each, has launched a range of budget jewellery to boost sales and appeal to a broader market. The company will introduce a range of silver jewellery to the British and Asian markets to widen its appeal. Prices will start at £75 and chief executive Barbara Snoad explained the reason for the decision: “It’s a question of realising that in a recession people get more discerning. They don’t just buy because it’s got someone’s name on it.”

Pure bliss for lovers of high fashion August is the diary date for the UK’s leading fashion trade event for contemporary and directional womenswear, young fashion and accessories. Pure London takes place biannually, and will be staged from 1 August 2010. Attending the event can clearly be beneficial to business with past events showing that 71 per cent of visitors come to Pure to meet suppliers and 68 per cent of all visitors have direct purchasing power. The event offers a range of inspirational brands, daily catwalk displays, trend presentations and business seminars.

Sizeable diamond causes a stir at AnchorCert An unusual pear-shaped diamond weighing over 12 carats has sparked much interest at the AnchorCert Independent Diamond and Gemstone Laboratory. The diamond, which was set in a ring flanked by two 50 point stones, was brought into the company for valuation by its owner who had inherited it from his grandmother. The ring went under the hammer at Birmingham auction house Fellows & Sons selling for £87,000 plus buyer’s premium, which brought the purchase price to over £100,000.

Josef Koppmann opens sleek new flagship London store Josef Koppmann has recently unveiled a new shop at the Oxo Tower Wharf in London, incorporating a sleek modern design.

Up until now his range of jewellery was sold at Harvey Nichols in Knightsbridge, the Gallery Electrum in South Molton and Orro in Glasgow’s Merchant City. The jewellery will still be available there but customers can now visit the retail unit and workshop on the first floor of the Oxo Tower.

There are only a limited number of units available in this exclusive complex and after a strict selection process Josef ’s design proposal was considered to fit in with the existing mix of high quality design studios, galleries and restaurants.

The premises have been completely refurbished to Josef ’s exact specifications, with the white matt walls, white porcelain floor tiles and soft halogen lighting giving a feel of light, space and tranquillity. The addition of a workbench in the room allows potential and existing clients to see how each piece is carefully hand crafted.

National Association of Goldsmiths announces new chairman The National Association of Goldsmiths has appointed jeweller Nicholas Major as its new chairman.

Nicholas, who is co-owner of Major Jewellers in East Grinstead, replaces Frank Wood as the Association’s chairman for the next two years.

Nicholas Major has been an active member of the NAG for 45 years, while running the family firm set up by his grandfather in 1903, and maintains the traditional principle of good service and values. He said it was an honour to be elected as chairman and praised the NAG for the support it has offered the jewellery industry over the past 116 years and for its standards of education and professionalism.

The new chairman formally took over the role at the Association’s AGM on Monday at the prestigious Wentworth golf club, and used the auspicious surroundings to pay tribute to the NAG’s successes in the past year.

“If it is a caddie’s job to support, inform and educate the golfer on the course ahead, then the jeweller’s caddie must surely be the NAG,” explained the new chairman. “The NAG has kept its members out of the rough and on the fairway, by making sure they are informed.”

Argento seeking new jewellery designers through competition One of the UK’s and Ireland’s foremost fashion empires has launched a competition to find new creative talent.

The 2010 Argento Jewellery Design Competition aims to provide a platform for the wealth of gifted young designers in the UK, showcasing their imagination and skills.

Awards will be made in two categories – costume jewellery and silver – and entrants should design a piece or collection which exudes originality; is made of high quality materials; and has not been entered into previous competitions or sold in any retail outlets. Entries need only be drawings or renderings and should include a description of the design and the materials used.

The winner of the competition will receive a £1,000 cash prize and their design will be manufactured and sold across the UK and Ireland in over 30 Argento stores as part of the company’s new spring/summer collections for 2011.

All designs should be submitted to the company by 1 August 2010 and the competition is open to anyone who has an interest in jewellery design.

Further details are available at www.argento.co.uk

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ROUNDUP AND BRIEFLY So Jewellery strengthens partnership with retailers As part of its commitment to ensure customers receive the best possible service, So Jewellery is strengthening its partnership with its retailers with a change to its terms and conditions. A revised European ruling states that a supplier is able to require quality standards for the use of internet sites as well as shops. Suppliers may also require that retailers have one or more bricks and mortar shops before engaging in online distribution. The company believes this approach to online sales will enable retailers to offer their customers the best possible choice and service.

Debutante wins prize at trade show Jessica Jewellery Design is taking part in International Jewellery London for the first time this year and has been awarded the IJL editor’s choice prize in the category of technical excellence. Jessica’s contemporary acrylic designs are inspired by views that surround her and the awardwinning collection was entitled Alliums, a floral circular range launched earlier this year. She was thrilled by the award, saying that it was “great to receive recognition for all the hard work and a great boost for contemporary jewellery.”

Boutique jewellers are a girl’s best friend A boutique diamond and jewellery studio in London has come up with an innovative way of attracting customers. Star Jewellers in Hatton Garden is hosting a series of ‘Rocks and Chocs’ evenings that combine diamonds, luxury handmade chocolates and champagne. The exclusive events for approximately 12 guests provide a relaxed environment to learn about buying diamonds, whether for weddings or an indulgent treat.

High-end brands welcoming the web Companies specialising in luxury goods have been reluctant to sell on the internet fearing they will lose their prestige and exclusivity. Analysts at Reuters Global Luxury Summit have revealed that attitudes are changing, with many shoppers prepared to buy even the most expensive items online. Chief executive of Oscar del la Renta, Alexander Bolen, said: “I have been shocked at the sort of business we have done online.” A recent report by market research company Vision Critical showed that 88 per cent of consumers shopped online in the last 12 months, and with internet shopping showing a steady increase year-on-year it seems that sellers of high-end goods would be well advised to embrace e-commerce.

BaselWorld rewarded for anticounterfeiting work More used to handing out awards, BaselWorld has been honoured by the Global Anti-Counterfeiting Group (GACG) for its fight against product piracy and the protection of intellectual property. The GACG Award 2010 named the ‘Trophée de l’Authentique’ was presented in Paris and recognises the steps the world watch and jewellery show has taken to stop the circulation of counterfeit products.

Ethical jewellery under the spotlight One of the hottest topics under discussion at London Jewellery Week was ethical jewellery, and it appears the industry is embracing the idea that creativity and high quality design need not be sacrificed when making responsible, sustainable jewellery.

A highlight of LJW was the ESSENCE Ethical Jewellery Pavilion, the UK’s first collective showcase for ethical jewellery design. The event was hosted by CRED, Europe’s leading supplier of fair trade jewellery, and the company’s director Christian Cheesman summed up the ethos behind ESSENCE, saying that it was driven by the need to know that “people are being given the chance to own jewellery that is traceable and delivers social and environmental benefits to producing communities.”

The issue of sourcing materials responsibly will become all the more important later in the year with the introduction of the Fair Trade standard for gold. The certification scheme will initially be launched in the UK and then rolled out to other countries across the world with the aim of capturing five per cent of the gold jewellery market over a 15 year period.

Bespoke design to be showcased at the Goldsmiths’ Fair For two weeks in autumn London is set to shine with the staging of the annual Goldsmiths’ Fair, now considered to be the most important and prestigious event of its kind in Europe.

The fair showcases the best in bespoke jewellery design, revealing the skills of the industry’s finest craftsmen and giving them an opportunity to talk to the public about their inspiration and techniques.

This year’s show includes the work of silversmiths such as Tina Engell and Roslyn Millar who have adopted a skill favoured by Renaissance jewellers using a cuttlebone to cast their jewellery. At the other end of the spectrum, Tom Rucker’s breathtaking designs employ cutting edge technology as he uses advanced laser welding to manipulate platinum to produce an intricate molecular lace-like effect.

There will be 90 exhibitors at the Goldsmiths’ Hall in London over the two weeks, and the Fair starts on Monday 27 September running until Sunday 10 October (closed Monday 4 October for change over). Admission is by catalogue purchased on the door and further details can be found at www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk

Hiho succeeds in raising huge sums for Help for Heroes charity Somerset-based jewellery company Hiho has raised over £7,700 for Help for Heroes by selling its specially designed range of bracelets, necklaces and earrings.

The Heroes collection has proved a big hit with customers both online and in store, with 20 per cent of all proceeds from sales donated to the charity.

Managing director of Hiho Andrew Ransford explained that the idea came about following news of the death of British bomb disposal expert Olaf Schmid.

Hiho’s relationship with Help for Heroes runs much deeper than just donating a percentage from the jewellery sales, as Andrew explained: “Many of us here at Hiho have military connections and it’s something we all feel very strongly about.”

In addition to the Heroes jewellery range, staff at the company have also taken part in a Dragon Boat race at Sherbourne Castle and completed a sponsored cycle ride from London to Paris. This brings the total raised

by Hiho for Help for Heroes to in excess of £10,000, and there seems to be no stopping the staff, who have plans already in the pipeline for the next fundraising venture.

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TRENDS

Selected

successes

This month Janet Fitch brings us a variety of jewellery sector triumphs that have impressed her over the summer, from innovation in design to visual feasts in retail

T

his column seems to be a midsummer miscellany – a random selection of what I’ve been doing this summer; a report on the jewellery that has caught my eye; and a mini round up of three shops that I’ve just discovered that embody the concept of innovative retailing.

New to the fine jewellery scene, Celia Weinstock founded her company, Lyme Fine Jewellery, in 2009 after Oxford University and then studying Jewellery Design at the Gemmological Institute of America. The company is named after her maternal home, Lyme Park in Cheshire, which was the scene for Darcy and Elizabeth’s meeting in Pride and Prejudice, and flavours her collections with quality and glamour. The new autumn collection echoes 50s and 60s elegance – key looks on the catwalk for winter. There’s an enchanting yellow diamond, white diamond and onyx ring – a 1920s-inspired design recreating the Art Deco fashion for carving hard stones with decorative diamond motifs – and delicate brown diamond and grey pearl earrings, representing blossoming flowers. ( www.lymefinejewellery.com)

At New Designers 2010, a must see for the pick of the bunch of new graduate talent, there is also a section devoted to those who are ‘one year on’ from their degrees, as well as ‘where are they now?’ following up designers who graduated a few years ago. There I met again Karen Dell’Armi, whose work has gone from strength to strength, with an impressive list of stockists for collections such as Serenity, which is inspired by Buddhist singing bowls; and Perseverance, all cut from sheet silver, domed into bowls and then oxidised.  (www.dellarmi.co.uk) I’ve been watching Mary Queen of Shops on television, and after visiting one of her transformations – a now lovely interiors shop in Kingston (37 Old London Road) – I thought I should tell you about three jewellery stores that I’ve discovered, which have a strong style and niche of their own.

Westwood Rocks (featured in the March issue of Jewellery Focus, Voice on the Highstreet section), was founded in 2000 by Lauren Westwood, then aged 18. It now has five shops in Cambridge, Farnham, Godalming, Guildford and Wimbledon, London. They are feminine, bright and modern, as is the website, and the handmade gemstone and pearl jewellery is bang on trend and affordable – a marketing success indeed.  (www.westwoodrocks.com)

TRENDS

Wolf and Badger was launched in February 2010 in Notting Hill by art gallerist Samir Ceric and handbag designer Zoe Knight, showcasing the best design talent in many fields including fashion, interiors, lighting and jewellery. Designers rent a dedicated unit in the store for a modest sum a week, including support services and advice on all aspects of retailing. The store design in cool black and white is chic and visually stimulating, and the pioneering concept is breaking new ground.  Jewellery designer Milena Kovanovic, who was also at New Designers, shows her delicate creations here, which combine glass blowing with skilful electroforming that allows silver to grow on the surface of the glass.  (www.wolfandbadger.com, www.milenakovanovic.com)

Julia Cook, a jewellery designer for 20 years and whose work I have long admired, lives and works in Hackney, east London, and has just opened her own shop there – Branch.

It has a vintage feel with old wood panelling, antique frames made into light filled cabinets, and downstairs a cosy workshop and seating area for customers to relax and discuss bespoke pieces. As a mother of three, she’s ingeniously designed a low table cabinet filled with crystals and fossils at pocket money prices to divert accompanying children, and the walls are hung with paintings by local artists and photographers. The shop stocks her own jewellery, which combines precious metals with unusual gems, and techniques like forging and beating gold with hammers to twist, curve and flatten it. Branch also has work by goldsmith Sam Salmons, and some fun and funky non-precious ranges by Frilly by Lily and Galibardy.  (www.branchonthepark.co.uk)

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WATCH THIS SPACE

A retail

success story

Keith Fisher recounts the tale of a new recruit’s first experiences of working in jewellery retail, and the story behind a well-known high street name

I

t is always nice when someone very close to you decides to embark on a career in the world of jewellery. It is also immensely satisfying when that someone – 19-year-old Maddie – has overcome terrible trauma to make a go of her life.

Maddie’s mum Maria (and my wonderful friend) died of cancer not so long ago, and I know first hand of the desperation she and her brother Harry experienced at such an awful time in their lives. That they were able to withstand such tragedy and carry on is a tremendous tribute to them both.

Maddie has chosen the perfect path in the infancy of her potential career. She is training with H Samuel in Dorset. For those who have lead a sheltered life, H Samuel is the massmarket jewellery chain operating in the United Kingdom and the Republic of Ireland. And with over 400 retail outlets to its name the firm can

justifiably claim to be the UK’s number one jewellery store.

Yes, Maddie is in good hands. Because if there is one thing I love about H Samuel, it is the expert way they train their staff. Each and every time I have popped in to one of the shops I have always been impressed by the way the salespeople treat you – never pushy, always charming, always helpful, always knowledgeable and most importantly (to me anyway!) always uniformed and smart. Indeed the learned Leonard Zell, my esteemed fellow columnist in this magazine and guru of the sales technique, would be suitably impressed.

But let us listen to Maddie. She told me: “I am really enjoying it. First you are taught the basics, such as how to open watches, fit new batteries and straps etc. And I am learning all about gold from the Samuel’s internet site at work, plus a host of other things.

WATCH THIS SPACE

“My manageress is Marion and she is so helpful all the time. My confidence was quite low when I first joined but Marion has taught me certain skills in how to deal with people, how to approach people and which paths to do down.”

H Samuel sells everything from jewellery to diamonds and collectables to gifts, as well, of course, as my beloved watches! Reliable names such as Rotary, Accurist, Guess, Diesel, Citizen, DKNY, Sekonda, Ben Sherman, Fossil, Seiko and Oasis provide an abundance of styles and designs which are all so massively affordable and which provide the very DNA of the company’s creed: you don’t need to pay a fortune for something stylish.

And that is something that I endorse wholeheartedly. I always recommend to people that if you haven’t got a great wad of cash to play with and you want something reliable and presentable then you cannot go wrong with stores such as H Samuel, especially in terms of guarantee and after-sales.

Maddie adds: “Our watches are very popular, in particular the Citizen Eco-Drive, which is solar powered and so does not need a battery.

We sell a lot of them.”

If, like I was, you are keen to know what the ‘H’ stands for in H Samuel, I shall tell you. It stands for Harriet! The story began in 1862 when Harriet Samuel (nee Wolfe) took over her father-in-law Moses Samuel’s clock-making and silversmith business in Liverpool. Harriet moved the business to Manchester’s Market Street and ran a mail order side.

The very first H Samuel retail store opened in Preston in 1890, closely followed by branches in Rochdale and throughout Lancashire. To accommodate a burgeoning business the company moved on to larger headquarters in Birmingham in 1912. After the second world war, Harriet’s grandsons Gilbert and Robert took over as chairman and vice chairman.

Then, after the brothers’ deaths in the late 1970s, Robert’s son took over as chairman, which maintains the family link to this day.

The H Samuel chain is now part of the Signet Group, which also owns the Ernest Jones and Leslie Davis high-street jewellery stores in the UK. In addition, Signet Group owns Sterling, the largest speciality jewellery retailer in America.

History lesson over, it is back to Maddie and she has a confession to make: “I am sorry Keith because I know you love your watches, but I am more of a jewellery person myself. I am learning all the time though. Promise!”

Reminding us of the huge benefits of working in jewellery retail, and the importance of continuing to attract new recruits to the industry, she adds: “What I love about the job is that it is very sociable. You meet different people every day. I like that very much.”

Maddie – your mum would be proud of you.

“What I love about the job is that it is very sociable.

You meet different people every day. I like that very much.”

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NEW TIMEPIECES

The new Hoop-La collection from D&G is available in a palette of four summer colours: mint, strawberry, lilac and ocean blue. Hoop-La is a range of watches that feature a simple yet stylish design; using the case lugs as the starting point of the iconic D&G lettering, the logo appears to flow seamlessly from strap through to dial.

The Classima Executives XL Chronograph and Complete Calendar is a highlight of the new Classima Executives Collection from Baume & Mercier. The traditionally and opulently finished piece features a silver-coloured dial, and a high-end mechanical self-winding movement driving a complete calendar (date with central pointer in 18-carat red gold, day and month through a window at 12 o’clock, moon phase at 6 o’clock) and 24 hour indicator at 9 o’clock.

Information: 0207 312 6885 or www.baume-et-mercier.com RRP: £2,995

Information: 01628 770 988 RRP: £99

Ones

to watch

RIST has recently arrived in the UK and is making “one hell of a splash” on the fashion scene. The RIST range is available in a spectrum of colours, fitting in with the trends seen on high-fashion catwalks in collections by designers including Matthew Williamson, Peter Pilotto and Gucci.

Information: 07515 758 938 or info@rist-watch.com RRP: From £49

It’s “time for the ladies,” says Swiss designer a.b.art, with its latest collection of styles. Top of the crop going into autumn is the E 109 (pictured) – a denim blue watch. The blue face can be teamed with a soft blue leather strap or the new metallic ones. Meanwhile the slim fitting I Series also has a silver look strap. a.b.art will also be exhibiting its 100-plus collection for men and women at IJL, stand G48.

Information: 01422 317 539 or www.abart-uk.com RRP: £170 (E 109 – denim strap)

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26

FASHION JEWELLERY

Conscious

fashion

Orelia

R Rebecca Hoh discovers a decidedly less fickle fashion jewellery market, with consumers now demanding better quality, ethically considered, and inspirational designs

ecent Fashion Weeks in Milan, Paris and London were bursting with tribal prints, ethnic styling and laid back bohemian designs, where loose layers flowed and soft, earthy coloured fabrics fluttered.

As this filters down to the Topshops and H&Ms of the high street, the fashion-led jewellery is also following with current trends, showing necklaces worn long and dangling low and earrings following a similar concept, moving on from the simple round hoops of recent years.

Gold is experiencing a comeback, in line with the tribal feel, but also in burnished and dulled out tones, with the simultaneous trend of all things with an aged or vintage look. These pieces worn as fashion statements or ‘costume’ jewellery are also becoming oversized, with a necklace being the main focal point of an outfit. These large pieces are decorative and intricate, with fringing and beading a common addition.

So who are the movers and shakers in the world of fashion jewellery; who and what should you be stocking in your store; and what do they think the current trends in costume accessories are?

One such company is Orelia, which as well as having its own standalone shops sells wholesale and has recently secured a concession in Topshop – you don’t get more fashion conscious than that! Orelia has also graced the fashion pages of Glamour, Heat, OK! and Elle and is definitely leading the gold colour revival: “We have done very little silver in our SS10 collection,” says Hester Cann, buyer at Orelia. “Gold

FASHION JEWELLERY

Alexandra Simpson

Galibardy

is definitely what people are buying into at the moment. It has to be the right sort of gold though – our jewellery has a very vintage inspired look, so we use soft or worn gold, not bright, trashy gold.” Cann also says there is a rise in cute, small charms and pendants: “With these you can layer them up on your wrist or neck and in gold this looks especially good with a tan and the floaty soft summer and autumn clothing style and colours around at the moment.” Popular motifs for Orelia’s charms are birds, with the single swallow charm necklace its number one bestseller.

Coutts New Jeweller of the Year 2009 Alexandra Simpson is also a name to watch. She agrees that motifs provided by the natural world are a big hit, and for her it is butterflies in particular. Simpson works in 18-carat gold and silver to create tiny butterflies with engraved messages and poems as well as sculptured flowers, all of which were chosen to illustrate the daily trends talk at this year’s German International Jewellery Fair under the ‘delicate and floral’ section.

Favourites of style and shopping mags Look and Cosmopolitan, Galibardy also looks to animal shapes for its trinket necklaces and rings, and also works in brushed and tarnished brass for that aged look. As well as smaller pieces, large jewellery objects and cocktail rings are also big sellers for Galibardy, something the company puts down to the infamous and ubiquitous credit crunch. “There is definitely a current trend for oversized statement pieces at present and has been for a number of seasons now. In a time where everyone is more aware of their spending, people want to be able to change the look of an outfit just by adding some great jewellery. We’ve recently introduced some diamante encrusted necklaces and oversized rings to the range to tap into this trend and add instant glamour, but with an urban edge.” This can be seen with the Buffalo ring in brass and Tiger Ring in gold, which has been seen adorning the fingers of fashionistas such as Fearne Cotton, Peaches Geldof and Lindsey Lohan.

“In a time where everyone is more aware of their spending, people want to be able to change the look of an outfit just by adding some great jewellery” Many other jewellery designers with fashion on their mind agree on the effect that the recession is having on the fashion conscious, as well as pieces that reuse items or have a lasting, ‘make-do and mend’ or sustainable appeal. “I think the most interesting trend in the jewellery scene is the current ethical and ecologically-aware approach to jewellery,” says David Mills, marketing manager for the Goldsmiths’ Company, which is involved in the organising and choosing of exhibitors



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28

FASHION JEWELLERY

at London Jewellery Week. “The high street jewellery consumer is increasingly demanding these options and jewellers are becoming more committed to sourcing materials and managing their businesses in a way that is socially, environmentally and culturally responsible, without sacrificing design quality. I expect this impulse to grow with consumers and in turn those creating and stocking the jewellery.” Mills sites Choo Yilin and CRED Jewellery as makers who create beautiful statement pieces, which adhere to the principles of fair trade.

The buyers at Orelia agree, stating: “People are tiring of purchasing pieces that are more trash than flash and are looking for items that will last, that can be combined with other items in the wardrobe and do not date to rapidly.

This means perhaps spending a little more on something interesting and maybe unusual, that can make an outfit more special.”

Choo Yilin

“People are tiring of purchasing pieces that are more trash than flash and are looking for items that will last, that can be combined with other items in the wardrobe and do not date to rapidly” Jessica de Lotz, another regular darling of Grazia, Vogue’s blog and the weekend fashion supplements, incorporates vintage and found decorative pieces into her work alongside the sustainable ethos of something with a little more quality, craftsmanship and individuality.

Her 22 carat rose and yellow gold pendants, bangles and cufflinks feature lace, feathers, braids and fringing. “Creating stunning pieces by recycling, reassembling or being thrifty in some way is now perceived as a valued art in the current and recent economic climate,” says de Lotz. “For designers and makers and their consumers there is a greater appreciation of the home spun look.” This has also sparked nostalgic and memorial motifs, for example antique looking pieces like pocket watches, teapots and birdcages, seen all over the high street and also carefully crafted by de Lotz, with collections such ‘The Love Story 1946’, which features Victorian wax seal pendants in matt silver or rose gold. Her latest venture, ‘Jewellery for Life’, epitomises this idea too, creating crests and monograms with her designer brother, referencing the idea of family history and heritage.

So perhaps the world of trend-orientated jewellery has become that little bit less fickle in recent years. On a quest to look for high fashion, you may find gold, but not trashy gold; delicate and intricate pieces with an ethnic edge; motifs that reference antiquities and the natural world; and you may just find something rather down to earth, with a conscience and built to last.

Jessica de Lotz

Supplier listing Alexandra Simpson: www.alexandrasimpson.com • Choo Yilin: www.chooyilin.com CRED Jewellery: www.credjewellery.com • Galibardy: www.galibardy.co.uk Jessica de Lotz: www.jessicadelotz.wordpress.com • Orelia: www.orelia.co.uk

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7/16/2010 9:32:36 AM

30

SET IN STONE

The Fuller factor An active member of the jewellery industry for 30 years, Patrick Fuller has been responsible for many major developments within the sector.

Louise Hoffman catches up with him to discover his hopes and concerns for the future

When did you enter the jewellery industry and what led you to choose the career?

I joined the jewellery industry in 1980 rather by default. I was working in the paint and wallpaper industry at the time and was under pressure to change jobs and move to London, which I didn’t want to do, so I joined my wife in her second-generation family business and have never looked back. The fact that I was an outsider with retail experience was helpful because I could take a fresh look at what was then a very traditional industry and not particularly susceptible to new ideas, and find new ways of approaching old problems.

You have held many high-profile positions within the sector – can you tell us a little about these?

Over the years I have held a number of honorary positions at the British Jewellers’ Association (BJA), the BJGF Federation, the National Association of Goldsmiths, Emagold and the Birmingham Assay Office.

Which have you enjoyed the most and why?

I’ve enjoyed them all and the different sets of challenges they have brought with them. I am particularly proud of being able to help install a professional management structure within the BJA back in the 1990s, and of taking a group of UK producers into Emagold (the European Manufacturers Association), which was a considerable force at the time. Bringing these firms into Europe in this way certainly helped to raise the credibility of British-made 18 carat gold jewellery, and also raised awareness of the metal

among UK consumers. At the Birmingham Assay Office there have also been plenty of developments with the introduction of off-site sub-offices and the creation of new laboratory services. In all cases I’ve tried to bring about positive change and to identify opportunities for the organisations to grow and move forward.

How have you seen the industry change since you first became involved?

The industry has altered dramatically. I think the first major change came with the emergence of the Ratner empire and the profound effect that his ‘cheaper than a prawn sandwich’ approach to retailing nine carat gold jewellery had on both the independent retailer and the manufacturing trade. This was probably the first time that jewellery had been purchased in such volume and made it easy for UK retailers to go overseas to source nine-carat products. It also woke up the independent jewellers who realised that they needed to move upmarket and offer a different service and different product if they were to compete.

Other big changes have been a huge increase in the popularity of platinum and 18 carat gold products. The UK was very much a nine-carat market when my jewellery career began. Also, the increase in the self-purchase of jewellery by women, which was also almost unknown 20 years ago. The huge advances in CAD/ CAM and rapid prototyping technologies can’t be underestimated either. These have had an enormous impact by dramatically increasing the range of products that can be made and the speed at which they can be produced.

SET IN STONE

Has it changed for the better or the worse?

I believe the industry has generally changed for the better and we are definitely seeing more high quality jewellery being produced with much more choice of platinum and 18 carat designs. A downside for me is that things are now a little too focused on diamonds. When I first started there was more variety with a number of small businesses specialising in exquisite pearl and coloured-stone ranges of jewellery. You rarely see these now and I regret their passing.

What do you believe is the most significant issue affecting the jewellery sector today?

How can this be overcome?

I think the most significant issue facing the industry is the explosion in the many different retail outlets that now sell jewellery. Dedicated jewellery retailers are competing with the internet, the TV, shopping channels, the supermarkets, boutiques – in fact just about everyone is a jewellery retailer now! This is a serious challenge for independent jewellers, but it is not insurmountable.

In terms of how it can be overcome, personally I don’t believe that the British consumer is nearly as conservative as jewellery retailers think they are, and I believe that they need to be offered more choice and the opportunity to buy contemporary lifestyle jewellery for a range of different occasions.

Retailers should be looking to offer their customers a bit more excitement and innovation and a few less ‘safe’ products in what they stock.

As chairman of the highly successful UK jewellery manufacturer WB Group, how important is it that our manufacturing sector is kept alive, and how do you think this can be achieved in the face of rising production and labour costs?

It is vitally important to keep the UK’s skill base alive and I see no grounds to give up on it. To survive those manufacturers who remain have had to become more creative and imaginative in how they attract and service their customers, and British producers can offer ‘just in time’ deliveries and a flexibility that their overseas competitors simply can’t match. But if you are going to succeed you have to invest heavily in design and manufacturing as well as in normal business services: nobody can do it on reputation and history alone.



“It is vitally important to keep the UK’s skill base alive and I see no grounds to give up on it”

31

32

SET IN STONE

“I believe the industry has generally changed for the better and we are definitely seeing more high quality jewellery being produced”

Where do you see the UK jewellery sector in the grand, global scheme of things?

The global scheme of things is changing very fast and the UK is undoubtedly not as important as it once was in the pecking order.

As the Far Eastern economies and India rise I fear it will drop further down the scale. That said, this is still a major market and there are real opportunities for businesses that can differentiate themselves in terms of design, marketing and display.

What are your hopes for the future of the industry?

My hopes for the future are overwhelmingly positive. We have many talented young designers and not quite so many serious craftspeople

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coming through, as well as manufacturers such as ourselves succeeding in this country. I firmly believe that if we put quality high on the agenda there are still great opportunities for jewellers and jewellery producers.

Finally, any last words of wisdom for our readers?

My advice, whatever area you are in, would be to look out for points of differentiation and don’t be frightened of finding innovative and different ways to attract the consumer.

There are plenty of niche markets still available so decide who your customers are and then really go for it using all the modern technologies and new communication technologies at your disposal.

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COMMENT

Did they jump, or were they pushed?

Ethical considerations are increasingly vital in the jewellery industry, but can the chainof-custody be made simpler for the average retailer? Michael Hoare comments

T

he decade has witnessed a worldwide shift in the ethical responsibilities of supply chain partners. We are familiar with the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) labels on furniture and wood products in the DIY shop, and Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) standards that apply to the fish on our dinner plates. Legislation is about to plug a £700 million loophole for illegally logged hardwood.

Now it’s the turn of the jewellery industry to reevaluate its supply chain responsibilities.

Starting with the wake-up call of ‘Blood Diamonds’ in the late 90s, the last 10 years have seen a flood of initiatives targeting the jewellery sector with calls to embrace social and environmental responsibility for its supply chain.

Initiatives like the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), Fairtrade Gold, Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM), No Dirty Gold, CAFOD’s Unearth Justice Campaign and others have left the average jeweller feeling increasingly under siege. How to understand and respond to the complicated world of ethical and responsible jewellery? What is ethical anyway? The mass of information; the complexities of the argument; the press speculation and conjecture; and the pressure from NGOs to do the right thing! No wonder jewellers are suffering from information overload, and a severe case of indigestion.

Even supposing we know what’s ethical, and we want to do the right thing, how do we start?

That’s the dilemma that faces many jewellers today. And the pressure is undoubtedly greatest on SMEs that don’t have the resources to go it alone. Sourcing and tracking gold and gemstones from mine to shopfloor like Wal-Mart might be easy for the big boys, but what do I do as a small jeweller, at the mercy of my suppliers, to ensure my stock is clean and ethically sound?

What’s the difference between ethical/responsible sourcing; traceability and product tracking; or supply chain management stewardship? How do I ensure provenance? The terminology alone is enough to induce a migraine!

Many jewellers must be thinking: ‘Wouldn’t it be simpler if someone came up with a scheme I could buy in to that ensured products were clean, and I could point my customers to a logo that shows I only buy from reputable sources?’

Of course, anyone familiar with the complexity of the supply chain that brings even the simplest of jewellery products to our shops knows the enormity of that task. But it is a concept that is being mulled over by the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC). The question being asked is, what is the feasibility of developing a standard and process for independent, third party certification of chain-of-custody systems in the jewellery supply chain?

The challenges are immense. Even setting aside technical constraints, cost, scalability and political and legal concerns, the size of the task may still be too great. However chain-of-custody systems are not without precedent, and such diverse commodities as GMO soybeans, paper pulp, renewable electricity, and fish are already monitored from source to end user. Whichever model is chosen, the outcome must be robust, cost effective, auditable, not anti-competitive, and above all else, clear and transparent. A tall order indeed!

Consultations are already underway and the RJC is encouraging stakeholders to share their views, so I have been asking around, gathering opinions, and keeping my ear to the ground.

Hardly scientific, I know, but so far reactions range from complete indifference, through resigned acceptance to enthusiastic support, and I have also encountered those who think it’s another conspiracy by the ‘interfering classes’.

Are we as a trade capable of the conceptual leap or paradigm shift that will bring such an ambitious scheme to fruition? We are one of the world’s biggest consumers of Fairtrade goods – even outstripping the Americans in the range of lines available to us – so there is no shortage of consumers looking for credible assurances about the products they buy. But can we shrug off our usual cynicism and make this a goer?

Will the trade embrace change, or are attitudes too entrenched? Can we do this voluntarily, without legislation? I think the jury is still out, what’s your verdict?

Email me at feedback@jewellers-online.org

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DESIGNER

The art

of design

With her jewellery quickly snapped up by several major art institutions, Justyna Niewiara is now gaining an international reputation with her lua lua brand What led you to become a jewellery designer?

I had wanted to design jewellery for a very long time, but I only pursued it when I started living in London — almost 10 years ago now. My original background in art history was a perfect match as it gave me a different approach to making jewellery compared to other designers. I enrolled on a jewellery course at the Morley College and that is where all began, but not straight away. When I began the course I wanted to fulfill my wish and passion for the jewellery, but I didn’t yet know that in a few years this would turn into a proper business. The opportunity presented itself and I took the challenge.

How and when did lua lua come to be established?

I established lua lua in 2005 when I launched my first collection – Boogie Woogie. At that time I was still working for the Lisson Gallery in London and jewellery was my dream. Now that my dream has come true I am working on it full-time.

What were your original aims and aspirations for the brand?

I had an idea and I wanted to do it – this was my aim. I believed in my designs and I wanted them to circulate and not only be seen and worn by my friends but by other people too. Tate Modern in London accepted my work very quickly and this helped my confidence and the aspirations for the brand to grow. I believe in big aspirations and a modest approach.

How does it feel to see these initial ideas not only coming to fruition, but also achieving huge success?

It is a very rewarding feeling – each success whether a small or a big one is a major achievement. It makes me feel happy and satisfied to see my jewellery in galleries, museums, newspapers, magazines, and being used by stylists, but sometimes I still cannot believe it all – that this has happened! It is a long process but once it starts there is no looking back as you need to keep up with the pace and keep designing, surprising and evolving the designs.

I understand you have received commissions from several art institutions – such as the aforementioned Tate Modern – can you tell us more about these?

I have experienced an unbelievable coincidence – my jewellery was at one time in three different museums in London simultaneously. Tate Modern has commissioned lua lua to design a special collection of jewellery for the exhibition ‘Rodchenko & Popova: Defining Constructivism’. I have

DESIGNER

always loved the constructivist understanding of form and colour, so I was very happy when the Tate invited me to design a collection. I had a look at the works that were going to be in the exhibition and came up with some designs that I felt had an affinity with the constructivist aesthetic.

At the same time the Barbican Art Gallery approached me as they wanted to show a selection of my designs in conjunction with their show, ‘Le Corbusier – The Art of Architecture’. Finally, the Royal Academy of Arts commissioned me to design a beautiful bluish pendant for their Kuniyoshi exhibition. After that I designed another collection of jewellery for the exhibition: ‘Van Doesburg and the International Avant-Garde: Constructing a New World’ at the Tate Modern.

Turning to the jewellery designs themselves, what are you main creative inspirations?

I have always been very inspired by the art of the Aztecs and the ancient Egyptians, and more recently by artists from the 20th and 21st century.

There is an almost timeless element to the language of geometric forms and colour that transcends the centuries. These two elements combined with the perspex give the lua lua designs a distinct modern feel.

When I have an idea and I start working on a collection, the name is somehow communicated to me through the shapes, form and overall design of the jewellery. I always try to achieve a coherent sense of unity both in terms of concept and design within each collection. The naming of each collection often comes about through a direct response to the forms or ideas that I have explored through each individual piece that also exists in the collection as a whole. Some of my recent collections have been in response to art, fashion, music, and even chemistry and physics.

Which materials do you most enjoy working with, and why?

In the process of experimenting and learning how to design jewellery, I got attracted to perspex and silver as I feel that they are the perfect medium to reflect my ideas and designs. I love the combination of these materials as it offers the possibility of creating a timeless elegance with a contemporary twist. The reflectivity of the silver is stunning next to colourful perspex, creating a harmonious fusion. The materials themselves can be difficult to work with when I am making some of my more complicated designs, but overall I love working with them.

I still do work occasionally with other materials, which I value for the purity and beauty of their colours, like brass or copper. I am always researching other materials that can help me to develop my ideas further and cross the boundaries of jewellery.

What is your target audience and how to you ensure that this market is reached?

The jewellery through its minimal aesthetic and timeless elegance appeals to many people. It is very well received by the museum shops worldwide, as well as galleries and fashion boutiques. I am constantly approaching and researching new outlets. I am also starting to reach the most rewarding stage for the designer, when the process starts working the other way around and through reputation and presence in the jewellery and design world I am getting enquiries about stocking my designs.

Are you currently working on any new collections?

I am always working on new ideas for the collections, and it can take some time for the idea to finalise in my mind and for me to complete the sketches required so the design is ready to be made into a piece of jewellery. I like working simultaneously on a few different designs as they are linked to each other. I am in fact finalising my next collection so keep and eye out for it!

Finally, what are your long-term hopes for the future of lua lua?

The lua lua brand is growing organically and is expanding step by step. In the beginning I mainly sold my jewellery in London and the UK but now I am starting to sell in Europe, the USA and Japan. I am trying to build an awareness of the brand and in the near future I would like to collaborate with fashion designers to design a collection of jewellery for them.

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40

AMBER JEWELLERY

1 2

1

FOCUS ON

amber jewellery

A jewellery material of choice throughout the ages, amber has been successfully taken into the 21st century by designers around the globe. Sam Guiry takes a look at some of the collections now available

3

S

ince Neolithic times amber has been prized for its decorative properties and was one of the original jewellery materials to be used by our ancestors. The ancient Greek author Nicias said amber was “the essence of the setting sun solidified by the sea and cast up on the shore.”

Today amber is still highly prized, with jewellery designers finding it an extremely versatile material to work with. It can easily be cut and carved into a variety of beautiful shapes and is extremely lightweight to wear. It is also proving popular with the jewellery buying public, with the emergence of exciting designers experimenting with edgy avant-garde styles.

Goldmajor was the first company to market amber in the UK as well as supplying a large international customer base. Managing director Bob Rontaler explains that for a while amber did have old-fashioned connotations. “It wasn’t that popular – it used to have a granny feel to it,” he says. The company has

since established a reputation for finding bright young designers who understand current fashion trends, and the search to find the talent to breathe life into the designs has taken the company to Poland.

The crafting of amber is big business in eastern Europe, and the Polish city of Gdansk has been at the heart of this trade since medieval times. There are rich deposits of amber in the Dominican Republic and Mexico but by far the greatest concentration is in the Baltic States, accounting for over 80 per cent of the world’s resources.

Polish craftsmen are renowned for their creative skills and since the fall of Communism in 1989 they are now able to give free reign to their talents.

Most of the world’s amber jewellery is made there, and companies look to the country’s designers to create innovative collections that break the mould of stereotypical amber designs.

Goldmajor has been a force in the jewellery trade for over 25 years, both leading and directing trends with

AMBER JEWELLERY

3 3

4

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its extensive and diverse variety of collections. From the classic cognac colour and the warm orange tones, to the unusual mix of milky yellow opaque and forest green, the variety of choice in the company’s jewellery is certainly impressive.

Teaming amber with other semiprecious stones, such as turquoise, moonstone and jet intensifies the choice for the customer and also reveals the sheer scope and versatility of the material.

Lapponia Jewelry also aims to revolutionise the conservative approach to amber jewellery, crafting collections that combine artistic flair and sculptural shapes. Many of the company’s jewellery designers are experienced in other creative disciplines, and this includes Poul Havgaard who has been with Lapponia for almost 40 years. He worked as a blacksmith and painter and today designs jewellery for the company at his workshop in Denmark.

An essential principle of Havgaard’s work is “to create tension by letting two interesting forms collide.” His favourite material is silver and he has combined this with amber to come up with some striking designs. Two of a Kind, Midsummer and Dawn are among his latest collections, highlighting the beauty of these

materials and creating a stark contrast between the warmth of the amber and the cold of the silver.

Havgaard enjoys working with amber, saying that it can easily be found washed up on the beaches of his home country. He particularly favours transparent amber that can be cut into form, and explains that he takes his inspiration from “the Art Nouveau period, or the golden age of art in Europe at the beginning of the last century, a period which was so lavish and luxurious, filled with love, joy and interest in life.”

Companies place great value on Baltic amber, partly because of its rich depth and tone. Founder of Mayanna Roman Czajkowski has been involved in the trade in Baltic amber since the early 1990s and has developed a reputation for sourcing large statement pieces and interesting stones.

The company has become a leading supplier of the finest quality amber jewellery, and features a large range of interesting and saleable designs with each piece of amber individually chosen for the colour, clarity and quality of inclusions. The company also has an extensive range of smaller everyday designs and can meet almost any amber enquiry received. The gold or silver setting is of high handcrafted quality and this is combined with

service tailored to the individual customer’s needs.

Amber has universal appeal, as Sarah Morfoot of Trollbeads explains: “People love the different shades of amber; it is easy to wear, chic, sophisticated, pretty with silver and amazing teamed with 18 carat gold.

Our amber beads are very popular with men too and look great on leather bracelets and necklaces.”

Not everyone will want ready-made jewellery, and for those who like to create their own statement piece Trollbeads offers totally natural amber beads, which are all individually handcrafted with precision and care.

Each bead is completely unique, featuring subtle natural variations and intricate faceting.

Individual amber beads are available from Trollbeads in gorgeous shades, from Alabaster and Honey Dew to Maple Syrup and Caramel Sunset. A 12 bead amber kit features a whole spectrum of striking amber colours, and of course each bead is authentic and individually marked with the Trollbeads brand.

As Goldmajor explains: “Over the last few years the amber market has grown in leaps and bounds. At one time the market used to be just for connoisseurs and collectors. Now there are no more barriers.”

1) Goldmajor: 0208 579 0588 • 2) Lapponia: 07836 607 238 • 3) Mayanna: 01494 524 124 • 4) Trollbeads: 0117 377 4214

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44

OPINION

Sneak preview For our special IJL preview issue, Syreeta Tranfield discusses a few of the highlights of this year’s show seminar programme

W

e know that buyers and retailers make a visit to IJL to source products from forward-thinking new designers, and to see collections being launched by leading names and brands, but this isn’t all they come for. They also come to hear real industry knowledge and the latest information on trends. Our highly acclaimed seminar programme just gets better each year, and we have announced the line-up for 2010 ahead of the event in September.

For the first time, we will be holding Boulevard Bar seminars in the buzzy central area of the show, featuring keynote speakers – and we are thrilled that Stephen Webster will be speaking on the Monday of the show. He will be sharing his knowledge about the changing trends in men’s jewellery in a seminar entitled ‘The evolution of men and their jewellery – from medallions on a bed of hair to a full chest wax and rosaries’.

Stephen Webster identified why he will be focusing on this topic: “There has been a huge growth in the men’s jewellery sector, which for us has been led primarily by the department stores. Men are more comfortable shopping in the men’s department of a store rather than a jewellery store, which may seem like more of a female shopping environment or a place to purchase a gift for one’s wife or girlfriend. Equally, in the last 10 years men have become used to picking jewellery from a collection rather than just seeing a random selection of cufflinks grouped together.

“Our men’s collections make up a substantial part of the business and probably 90 per cent of our men’s sales are self purchase. Men have started feeling much more comfortable wearing jewellery, so I feel it is my obligation to challenge our clients to expect more from the jewellery they wear.”

Lively debates will also be held in the Boulevard Bar area, such as the Great Debate, in partnership with the Birmingham Assay Office. These sessions aim to stimulate debate, provoke thought, share ideas and prompt action in relation to the ethical issues that confront consumers and the trade. Topics being discussed include ethical sourcing; what the jewellery industry can do to improve the lives of miners and their communities; and how to implement RJC (Responsible Jewellery Council) independent audits.

We invite successful retailers to speak at IJL as we believe that sharing knowledge is an effective way of making progress across the sector. This year Liz Olver, design director at Annoushka, will be speaking at the show for the first time. She commented: “As I lectured on jewellery design

at Central Saint Martins for many years, and now work with Annoushka with a number of young designers, I have always considered the IJL show to be one of the most important dates on the calendar for discovering the industry’s best emerging talent.”

I asked Liz what she will be discussing at the show, and female self-purchasing is very much a focus for her: “I will be talking about the changing face of jewellery and how one of the main reasons Annoushka decided to launch a new fine jewellery collection was to bridge the gap between the classic fine jewellers and the high street, and design jewellery to be worn by women every day. Women are increasingly financially independent and as such we find more and more women buying jewellery for themselves, but the classic jewellers still seem to be targeting the men who buy the jewellery for high days and holidays. Annoushka jewellery is designed by women for women to enjoy every day.”

Liz will also be talking about their concept of a ‘jewellery wardrobe’: “We want to encourage women to style their jewellery as they do with clothes, building a collection of everyday basics like diamond studs and pearls, and more dramatic statement pieces, resulting in a collection which expresses their own style and individuality.”

This year we have several leading trends forecasting agencies coming to the show – TJF, Trendstop, Global Color Research and, for the first time, Stylesight, whose European trend director, Sandrine Maggiani, will be speaking. I asked Sandrine for her views on the role that London plays in the fashion and jewellery industry: “London is simply the theatre of effusive creativity and diversity. The new generation of fashion professionals look to London fashion for its dynamism and impetuous sense of panache. Didn’t renowned British designer, Giles Deacon, say: ‘The London environment encourages adventure, playfulness and independence’? The city remains influential in the international scene because of its ability to decipher and ‘up-cycle’ trends, and to evolve and constantly renew aesthetic codes, all gathered from attitudes and cultural fusions. This provides the perfect interface between technology and craft, all of which are keystones of the future of the fashion industry.”

In total, there are four seminar streams running at the show, and the full list is on the IJL website: www.jewellerylondon.com/seminars. All of the seminars are complimentary, and a little expert advice really can make all the difference to your business.

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46

IJL PREVIEW

Creative

inspiration

This year’s IJL, held from 5 to 8 September, will once again celebrate the most talented, innovative British and international jewellery designers, wholesalers and manufacturers, who will unveil their latest creative collections. Read on to preview some of the designs and services that will be on show

IJL PREVIEW

47

lry 5C Jewe Ag Silver

Apsara

Aagaard

Apple Display

In the Match Your Colour collection, 5C Jewelry combines different colours of gold with natural colour diamonds. By mixing and matching the colours and jewels one can create breathtaking combinations for any occasion. Meanwhile, 5C’s diamond engagement and wedding rings range keeps expanding, with favourite classics always in demand. Free POS material will also be available at IJL. Information: 0032 3231 0453 or mail@5c-group.com Stand G78

Contemporary brand Ag Silver will launch its eclectic Autumn/Winter collection at IJL. This witty collection combines detailing, design and seasonal influences like stars, cobwebs and snowflakes in an eye-catching range. Additions to Ag’s best-selling Filigree collection include the detailed marquise set pictured, comprising matching pendant and statement drop earrings. These elegant designs are available in either plain polished silver or silver with 18 carat gold finish.

Information: 01603 631 314 or www.agsilver.co.uk

Argenta

A’Ora

Apsara will be displaying a collection of unheated rubies and sapphires in a variety of colours and shades.

Rubies, bright red with good clarity, from the recently discovered deposits in Niassa Province, Mozambique, will be available in one and two carat sizes. There will also be a selection of different coloured sapphires, both heated and unheated.

Information: 01737 358 071 or www.apsara.co.uk Stand J59

Stand C14 Wonderful lighting, different nuances, organic shapes and at the same time dramatic and courageous; this is the wonderful winter universe of Danish company Aagaard, which is behind well-known brands Lovelinks, Petite and BLOG in the UK. Deeply embedded with Danish values, you find a jewellery brand with a strong focus on craftmanship and a unique preference for loving, caring details.

Apple Display and Shopfitting recently completed the design, manufacture and installation of Bijou.

The new jewellery, gift, card and coffee shop in Elgin, Moray, consists of a range of black and white gloss contemporary cabinets, islands and counters on the ground floor, with cabinets, slat wall and an impressive modern servery area in the gourmet coffee shop on the first floor.

Information: 0045 63 21 37 17 or mt@byaagaard.com

Information: 0161 335 0660 or www.appledisplay.co.uk

Stand F11

Stand C110

Bijouterie is launching the Lotus Collection at the IJL show. Gemstone sets are in 18 carat rose gold vermeil – 925 sterling silver plated in 18 carat gold – allowing consumers to enjoy the rich hue of gold without prohibitive prices. Argenta A’Ora is also the sole distributor for muchpublished sustainable luxury designer Choo Yilin, whose design philosophy of organic asymmetry is a celebration of life in all its imperfect beauty.

Her collections also communicate important cultural, social and environmental messages while using ethically-sourced materials.

Information: 0208 866 2831 or asheila@argentaaora.co.uk Stand D68

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50

IJL PREVIEW

Bien

aspini ovanni R i G e i r e Argent

Chamilia

Bellezza

Carrie Elspeth Charms U K Argenterie Giovanni Raspini nestles in Tuscany, in the heart of Valdi Chiana, between Arezzo and Siena, and is made up of creative craftsmen who have manufactured nothing but silverware and jewellery since 1972.

All products are carefully hand-tooled one by one. They are conceived, designed, shaped, chiselled, polished to perfection and packaged in-house giving each piece a unique personality.

Desire is the fresh, new collection from Bien symbolising love, eternity and adoration. This beautiful jewellery suite has been specifically designed in three different weights, 0.33 carat, 0.50 carat and 0.75 carat to hit a range of price points. Affordable and attractive, the company adds that the collection is “a winning combination sure to get tills ringing this Christmas!”

A sponsor of this year’s show, Chamilia will unveil its newest collection of earrings and necklaces at IJL. Taking its design inspiration from listening to women, the new earrings offer a new twist on the classic hoop.

Two graceful infinity symbol designs hold beads that can be interchanged to personalise and express any mood or moment. The necklace collection also offers versatility for adding beads.

Information: 07884 002 312 or marliesarmstrong@aol.com

Information: 01707 255 000 or www.bnrings.com

Information: 0844 811 2142 or www.chamilia.com

Stand F78

Stand G51

Stand E111 and F111

Mancini’s Bellezza rings have caused huge excitement since their launch earlier this year – the mixture of old-time glamour and up to date modernity is satisfying the customer who is looking for that something different. The use of luxurious semi-precious stones and gems creates a decadent piece that exudes individuality, and strikes a chord with many a retailer.

Opulence is Carrie Elspeth’s exclusive limited edition collection: a sophisticated and luxurious range of affordable designs of bespoke and extravagant beads, crystals and sterling silver. Borne out of a desire for complete freedom of creative expression, the Opulence collection is added to twice a year. “If you’re looking for designer jewellery which is playful, elegant, eye-catching and affordable, then look no further than this Welsh handmade collection,” says Carrie.

Set to catch retailers’ eyes this year is the brand new Arm Candy Bangles collection from Charms UK. This new autumn collection consists of 50 different styles of lightweight silver bangles set with a variety of stones including blue topaz, ruby, amethyst, turquoise and many more. The competitive prices include a display stand and a choice of packaging.

Information: 0191 214 7074 or sales@mancinijewellery.com Stand E131

Information: 01446 771 271 or www.carrieelspeth.com Stand A37

Information: 0117 9683 979 or sales@charmsonline.co.uk Stand F121

IJL PREVIEW

51

locks terson C David Pe

Domino

Elran

Paul Cos tello

e

Eleni Kandarakis Delcam

Solid brass quality carriage clocks are making a comeback, and David Peterson Clocks (formally Weiss Clocks) from Reading is firmly at the forefront of the industry having been a supplier to the trade for over 45 years. Each clock is carefully timed and checked for accuracy and quality.

Customers’ own names and/or logos can be applied to dials.

Information: 0118 947 1405 or www.dpclocks.co.uk Stand D79

‘Flow’ is a new range of diamond set jewellery from Domino, featuring rings, wedding bands, earrings and pendants. The collection is made up of design-led suites suitable for bridal wear, a special gift, or as a right hand ring. Inspired by natural themes like running water, Flow is a contemporary range with subtle detail. A brochure supports the collection and all designs are available in platinum and 18 carat gold alloys with HSi diamonds.

With extensive experience in the creation of fine silver and gold jewellery products, Elran has put together an exquisite new collection of contemporary handmade jewellery designs incorporating high quality silver and nine carat gold set with semi-precious stones.

Information: 0870 224 4866 or www.avivsilver.co.uk Stand A69

Information: 0121 236 4772 or www.dominojewellery.com Stand G111

At this year’s IJL show, Delcam will be demonstrating its latest range of jewellery design and manufacturing solutions for the industry, while company representatives can explain the CAD or CAD/CAM software and the RP bureau services. “Delcam’s biggest advantage is that it is more manufacture based than some of the other companies in this market, so beneath the surface of the products there is more substance. I’ve also found Delcam’s customer service over the years to be very consistent,” says Rob Girling from Delcam customer Selini, which created the design pictured.

Information: 0121 766 5544 or www.delcam.com Stand E110

Eleni Kandarakis is a family business specialising in handmade jewellery for over 35 years. With a portfolio ranging from antique style to white gold jewellery, the company aims to offer a design to suit every style. Attention to detail and quality guarantees that each individual piece lives up to clients’ expectations. There is also the unique freedom of bespoke services – the opportunity to realise everyone’s personal dream design.

Information: 0030 210 777 5203 or gkanda_el@hotmail.com

Paul Costelloe is one of the most established names in British and Irish fashion. With a strong sense of style and relentless desire to create beautiful designs, Paul has been head of a successful label for over 25 years.

From simple forms to the avantgarde, the Paul Costelloe collection encompasses pieces that catch the eye rather than scream for attention.

Information: 0845 300 7762 or www.paulcostelloejewellery.com Stand C121

Stand J70

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54

IJL PREVIEW

Gecko esign Erfurt-D

Gift Time Greenspa

rk

Eternity Range

Gemvision

Exhibiting for the second time at IJL, German company Erfurt-Design will show a wide range of exquisite silver jewellery with semi-precious stones – a unique combination of high-quality stones and manufacturing available to view. Designer Peter Erfurt chooses the stones personally for the individually designed pieces. “My intention as a designer is to create plain silver settings giving my selected stones the utmost possibility to show their beauty,” he says.

Information: 0049 4297 1216 or www.erfurt-design.de

Gecko will be showing all of its successful ranges at IJL. The company expects the leather and beaded collections with granulation, oxidisation and cubic zirconia of the Fred Bennett range of men’s designs to be a particular highlight. Also available for preview are the 250-plus original, trend-led designs in the new Elements Silver 2011 collection.

Information: 01376 532 000 or sales@geckojewellery.com Stand F31

Gift Time Products has a range of traditional style alarm clocks – with a twist! Instead of the double bell alarm ‘ringing’, the clocks feature a realistic sound of the animal depicted on the clock face. The eight different models each come in a display gift box (complete with accessible ‘test’ button on the back) and with three batteries.

Information: 0118 947 1405 or www.gift-time-products.co.uk Stand D79

Stand E88 Eternity Range returns this year to showcase its complete collection from innovative new styles to classic favourites. Of particular note is a range of stacking rings using colourful gemstones. Other designs use rub-over set brilliant cuts, French cut channel set and the popular dot dash eternity rings. All new designs are available using G-VS quality diamonds in 18 carat yellow, white or rose gold and platinum.

Information: 0207 831 8573 or www.eternityrange.co.uk Stand H88

Gemvision’s revolutionary CounterSketch Studio will celebrate its official UK launch at the IJL show.

Representing an entirely new way for retailers to offer bespoke design experiences in-store, CounterSketch Studio simplifies the process to four easy steps, from search through the huge virtual jewellery range; developing the design (with instant budget estimate); to ordering and delivering the hallmarked piece within 14 days.

Information: 0113 389 9710 or www.gemvision.com Stand C101

Greenspark Ltd manufactures quality precious and semi-precious stones, and specialises in diamonds, emeralds and tanzanites. Stocks in diamonds range from 0.01 carat to 5.00 carats, with a selection of fine makes of certificated diamonds by GIA, HRD and IGI available. Greenspark has also recently added a range of diamond jewellery, transforming the company into a ‘one-stop shop’. The collection will be displayed at IJL. Information: 0161 436 6600 or gems@greenspark.co.uk Stand J74

IJL PREVIEW

55

Kali Ma

Mancini

onds Hot Diam

Marcia L anyon

Malcolm Morris MelanO

Hot Diamonds charms are collectable storytellers, each one lovingly crafted from sterling silver and set with a signature diamond. For autumn/winter there are new pendants and bracelets that showcase charms in a unique and stylish way. There are also additions to the ‘Glamourpuss’ charm category, celebrating style icons such as sassy ankle boots, stratospheric stiletto heels and Dirty Mojitos.

Kali Ma is introducing its special new range of inscribed silver jewellery, themed with ‘happiness’, ‘love’ and ‘mind, body, soul’, at IJL this year.

Also available in the collection are 10 silver satinised pendants inscribed with phases including ‘Hugs to brighten ur day’ and ‘Courage to know yourself ’ – perfect gifts for those in need of encouragement and support, or simply to make a loved one smile.

Information: 0118 975 4231 or www.hotdiamonds.com

Information: 01803 872 555 or enquiries@kalimadesigns.com

Stand G130

Stand F30

MelanO’s 925 sterling silver and stainless steel collections offer customers the ability to create their own piece based on individual tastes. The ‘cateye’ range features an innovative ball – available in a range of colours, with zirconia and real stones available – that can be pushed in to pieces throughout the range of rings, pendants, earrings and bracelets.

Malcolm Morris is showing again this year at IJL, and his designs have been selected for the Design Impact Award. “It means a lot to me winning this award as I think I make jewellery with impact that makes a design statement, not just for now but jewellery that is just as wearable in the long-term,” says Malcolm.

Information: 0031 45 567 09 17 or info@hvtrends.eu Stand E99

Information: 0208 521 4984 or malcolm@malcolm-morris.com Stand D18

With Mancini’s natural stone bracelets and charm range having quickly gained recognition, no time has been wasted developing the collection with autumnal inspired pieces. The new additions will be launched at IJL, continuing the stylish, individual range.

Information: 0191 214 7074 or sales@mancinijewellery.com Stand E131

Marcia of Marcia Lanyon Ltd hand-picks her range of freshwater pearls, stones and beads, and now also sources the shaped pearls, rough crystals and elegant facets that are a crucial element of upcoming trends.

Whether you are looking for sparkling sapphires, chunky dyed quartzite, a calibrated facet or a totally unique cabochon, Marcia Lanyon Ltd is ready to help.

Information: 0207 602 2446 or sales@marcialanyon.com Stand J11

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58

IJL PREVIEW

Peace of Mind

Midhaven Mayanna

Nexus Pearls McCourt’s Jewellery

Jo for G irls

Mayanna is known for handmade, one-off, designer amber jewellery, and has a core range in which designs are constantly being updated and modernised. At IJL 2010 Mayanna is excited to be able to show off its range of new designs, which include large statement pieces of fine quality with interesting stones.

Information: 01494 524 124 or www.mayanna.com Stand C81

Midhaven’s Lavish range is flourishing in time for Christmas with three new additional Lavish ranges.

Heavy handmade pendants, earrings and rings; a range of high quality contemporary collarettes and bracelets in polished or satin finish; and silver and rose gold pendant and earring sets are all available. The ranges come with handmade silk boxes and POS. Information: 01299 851 513 or www.midhavensilver.com Stand H17

Mixed metals add tactile warmth to Peace of Mind’s (PoM) Live in Harmony collection, while the signature range – Bolder – features stone combinations and silver work.

Along with new designs, the company is also launching a new stone-based range this autumn. “It’s my favourite time of year,” says PoM designer Chris Holden.

“The colours and textures of the changing season are a real inspiration to me. Ushering out the summer and bringing in the warm sensual feel of autumn is something I really love.”

Information: 01225 777 749 or www.pom925.com Stand F48

Renowned for the quality of its stones and special designs, McCourt’s Jewellery has been supplying fine jewellery to the wholesale industry since 1979. Its offering is constantly being updated in line with different trends.

Information: 01670 788 989 or www.mccourtsjewellery.co.uk Stand H68

Eighteen carat gold, diamonds, Tahitian and South Sea pearls combine in exquisite lines, backed by a complete range of pearl strand necklaces from Nexus Pearls. The company says classic looks are very much in this year, and fine quality Akoya pearl necklaces and diamond set jewellery are in high demand.

Tahitian pearl necklaces and long layered lengths are also selling well, with mixed colours and lengths being popular trends.

Information: 0121 554 9999 or sales@nexuspearls.co.uk Stand I78

With thoughts now turning to the Christmas sales period, Jo for Girls is introducing ‘Christmassy’ charm beads to complement the range shortlisted for Gift of the Year. Chilly snowmen, cheery robins and glowing Christmas trees are all made of sterling silver with enamel and gold plate. The company has also been awarded Certificate of Achievement for Children’s Fashion Designer of the Year by Insight magazine.

Information: 01887 820 760 or sales@perthshirejewellery.co.uk Stand E139

IJL PREVIEW

59

Tezer Design ilver Sandia S

SilveRado

Sphere of Life

Stack Ring Co

Thai Des ign

Distributors Ltd Sandia Silver has seen many different trends come and go over the past few years, but what hasn’t changed is the popularity of fine handmade jewellery. The company’s collection – Autumn-Winter Jewellery from the Heart – will be showing for the first time at IJL 2010, and includes smooth and polished silver hearts, balls and asymmetrical shapes on necklaces, rings and earrings.

Flower stack rings with handcrafted detail and gemstones from the Frost collection are the latest new launch from SilveRado. The company’s IJL stand will host the rest of the Frost collection, as well as the sister ranges of Earth and Fire.

Information: 0208 275 1600 or annagee@supanet.com

Tezer Design will be exhibiting pendants, earrings (pierced or clip), necklaces (long or short), bracelets and rings, all available in sterling silver, gold plate or 14 carat gold in a “must see” range.

Information: 07774 928 045 (UK sales) or www.tezer-design.de Stand G98

Stand C70

Information: 0207 228 9414 or www.sandia-silver.co.uk Stand A61

You can create your own individual, personalised piece of jewellery with Stack Ring Co by Silver Willow from a “magical” range of interchangeable stack rings. Each ring is made from 925 sterling silver and plated with rhodium. A variety of shapes and sizes of faceted gems, enamel flowers and love hearts add impact to designs, while designer textured bands act as spacers, adding height and depth.

Information: 01823 698 898 or www.silver-willow.com Stand F28

Sphere of Life will be stepping up its game in preparation for IJL, launching new collections such as Sphere of Life Cute, which aims to attract younger consumers.

Meanwhile, for a more luxurious gift, the Sphere of Life Diamonds collection will launch from September. IJL will also see the unveiling of new design themes, with dozens of new designs added to the ever-growing collection.

The well known manufacturing company Thai Design Distributors Ltd will be showing its new in-house lines at IJL. The lines will include silver earrings, pendants, bangles, men’s and kid’s jewellery, all available with or without stones. Priding itself on quality, quick delivery and customer service, the company also provides an exclusive production service to customers with their own design brand or collection.

Information: 0845 241 0420 or www.sphereoflife.co.uk

Information: 0208 903 0233

Stand G90

Stand: E81

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IJL PREVIEW

lery ne Jewel Tivon Fi

Vizati

Trollbeads

Giorgio Martello Treasure House Jolie Be ads

Already well known for coloured gemstone jewellery, with the new Seduction diamond collection Tivon Fine Jewellery is looking for more than just colour. Created in collaboration with an Italian designer, the collection uses 18 carat rose gold with white diamonds in a contemporary style inspired by flowing movements and sensual curves for luxury feel.

Information: 0208 624 6880 or www.tivonjewels.com Stand i21

Featuring exciting charms and beads, the Silver & Co collection from Treasure House will be on show at IJL at Earls Court. Visit the company’s stand to see its latest designs, together with display units that will help sell even more of the collection’s pieces.

Information: 0207 400 0000 or sales@thgold.com Stand A129

Trollbeads will be displaying its new Autumn Collection at IJL. Details of the collection are being closely guarded but all the latest designs will be displayed together with stunning images from its dramatic new ‘Noir’ advertising campaign. The latest Trollbeads creative earring hooks – a new concept by the designers – will also be displayed at the show, and don’t miss the return of one of the best loved Trollbeads – back by popular demand!

White Satin – the ever-popular range of designer sterling silver jewellery by Vizati – has been extended to include more opals and tanzanites, among the diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, other stones and pearls.

Matching opal pendants, earrings and adjustable rings provide splashes of colour at reasonable prices. Vizati also has some very substantial show pieces for the Christmas shop window to stop passers-by in their tracks!

Information: 0117 377 4214 or info@fabletrading.co.uk

Information: 01323 485 605 or sales@vizati.com

Stand F80

Stand D61

Lucky Charms by Giorgio Martello is a clip-on charm collection with over 1,000 different designs to create and combines individual bracelets and necklaces according to personal style and mood. Using rhodium plated sterling silver 925, the range is crafted to a high quality and at an affordable price. The retailers benefit from effective POS displays, packaging and leaflets.

With the popularity of silver beads in the UK continuing to grow beyond all expectations, and the choice of bead ranges widening, retailers demand high quality silver beads for discriminating customers. Jolie Beads is Europe’s fastest growing new range of silver beads, which are designed with versatility so they can be worn with most other bead systems.

Information: 0207 405 5523 or www.uniquejewelry.co.uk Stand E101

Information: 01481 701 577 or vjgems@cwgsy.net Stand E99

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SELLING

62

Giving good service Going the extra mile will increase your jewellery sales and win your customers’ loyalty, says Leonard Zell

I

hear it all the time from jewellers: “We specialise in giving our customers good service”; “Service is our speciality”; “We train our salespeople to give good service”; and so on.

When I ask those jewellers to tell me which services they provide their customers, they say things like: “Service is being courteous to customers, fulfilling their needs and sometimes offering coffee or champagne.” I ask them if there are any more and they may bring up free gift-wrapping.

What these jewellers thought were services were merely courtesies that any store should give their customers. This is the definition of service: when you exceed your customer’s expectations. None of those exceeded their expectations – they met their expectations, but did not exceed them.

These are four services that you can start in your stores that will exceed your customers’ expectations:

Personalise your sales

Jewellery is the most personal and sentimental of all gifts.

Why remain anonymous? Be personal and introduce yourself and get to know your customers. This service is rarely done in any jewellery store.

Voluntarily clean your customer’s jewellery

Yes, I know what you are going to say – that you already do this. You may think you do, but you wait until a customer asks you. It is only service when you volunteer it. In my 30 years of training jewellers and being in their stores for a full day, I have rarely heard a salesperson volunteer to clean their customer’s jewellery. The sales that can be created for new diamond settings and replacement of chipped stones etc are sales you never would have made before.

Call your customers

Jewellers do this sporadically, but seldom on a continuous basis. Most men wait until the last minute to get something for their wife and even then have no idea what they should buy. If they received a call at least a month before an occasion from one of your salespeople with a suggestion of a diamond bracelet or a pair of earrings, think how relieved he would be! What a great surprise because he never expected your call. This is the most powerful of all sales techniques and the one that shows your customers you really care. It is also a great way for salespeople to more than double their sales and see their customer list grow each year.

Your gift-wrapping

Take a look at it. Is it the same gift-wrapping you have used for years? Does it have a wow factor? Would your customers say: “I have never seen gift-wrapping so beautiful!” Is it so outstanding that your customers got an extra hug and came back again and again just to get your gift-wrapping?

Is it so distinctive that it can be spotted immediately under a Christmas tree? If it gets those positive reactions your customers will buy jewellery from you they could have easily purchased at other stores, but they wanted your giftwrapping. Think of the customers who heard about this from their friends and came in and bought from you instead of your competitors.

The result of these simple steps will be increased sales that you never expected! These are the reasons why: • Word of mouth advertising: This the most powerful of all advertising because it spreads fast and your store becomes the topic of exceptional experiences. Customers love to recommend a store and a salesperson they said had exceeded their expectations.

• Repeat customers: You have raised your standards so high that your customers will want to come back to your store.

They know they won’t get that service and attention at any other jeweller, or retail store.

• Staff motivation: Customers will come back asking for a salesperson by their name, which is a big compliment and raises a salesperson’s esteem. If your salespeople are on commission, they will greatly increase their income.

• Recession proof: When there is a dip in the economy there are still many customers who have the money to buy jewellery, they are just more discerning about where they spend it. If you follow those four principles of service and exceed your customers’ expectations, you will be their jeweller. They will also tell their friends that you should be their jeweller too.

• Profit increase: Except for the finer gift-wrapping, none of the four services require an extra expense. Think how much you would have to advertise to get those increased sales!

• Elimination of competition: You will have raised your selling standards so high it will be obvious to customers who have bought from other jewellers. With your outstanding service they will always be your customers.

When you put those four services to good use, you will have increased sales you had never expected, and better yet, you will have customers forever.

Leonard Zell is scheduling jewellery sales seminars for individual jewellers in the UK in September and October. To find out more about his successful sales seminars, go to his website, www.zellit.com. You may also call Leonard in the US on 001 503 412 9521 anytime after 5pm UK time, or email him at zellit@aol.com For further information on the techniques in this article and the keys to increasing your sales, take advantage of Leonard’s best-selling 180-page sales manual of proven jewellery selling techniques. And for the perfect complement, order “Leonard Zell Live” – a full day’s sales training seminars recorded live on three CDs. You may order from his website, www.zellit.com

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FINE QUALITY – ENDURING VALUE

2/6/10 07:38:34 7/16/2010 9:59:29 AM

66

RED STONES

Gems of a

colour

Red is the colour of passion and love, but with the problems facing the ruby market today what other red stones could you recommend to your customers? Gem-A’s director of education, Lorne Stather, suggests some simple techniques to identify red stones and looks at the range of stones available

R

ed is such a vibrant colour, and with its appeal across so many different cultures it is always a good seller. Yet red is also the sign of danger, and with the influx of glass treated rubies currently flooding the market the need for caution is very much a necessity.

So what is wrong with these treated rubies?

Why should the trade be concerned? The answer is simple: consumer confidence. As money gets tighter for many of the buying public here in the UK we need to both encourage and reinforce a positive image.

These treated rubies provide a cheap source of nice looking red stones, but the downside is the durability problems that accompany them.

The appearance of these stones can be altered very easily by heat, solvents and standard jewellery cleaning techniques such as ultrasonic, steam cleaners and pickling solutions. There have also been reports of customers paying over-inflated prices for such stones, only to be very disappointed when they have obtained independent valuations on them.

Along with the numerous simulants, composites and synthetic rubies readily available on the market, these glass-filled rubies have created a minefield of potential problems for the uneducated buyer to fall into. This does not do the jewellery industry any favours in an already strained market. However, there has been a great deal written about rubies in the gem and jewellery press over the last year; from identification tips and debates relating to the correct terminology for the treatments, to the issues surrounding valuation and durability.

Despite these problems, ruby is still a desirable and beautiful stone, well deserving its place among the ‘big four’ (the others being sapphire, emerald and diamond). But, of course, there are other red gemstones.

Garnet and diamond ring © Hirsch London

Left (from top): A step-cut ruby and some uncut glass-treated rubies.

Images © Gem-A

There are many pink stones available on the market, but only a limited number of natural transparent red stones that are commercially viable. After ruby, the strongest contenders for the red stone crown would have to be spinel, garnet or tourmaline. In many ways spinel is the most obvious choice; in the past the popularity of this stone has been limited by the quantity of good, red coloured material being mined, but with the new and very attractive stones coming out of Tanzania a ready source of material is now available. Garnet also provides a wide range of hues and red tones, from the purer red colours seen in chrome pyrope garnets to the more brownish or purplish red hues of almandine garnet. Pink to red tourmaline, often referred to as rubellite in the trade, typically shows pinky tones but can also have a rich red colour that can compete with ruby itself.

Above (from top): spinel, almandine garnet, pyrope garnet, images © Gem-A; rubellite courtesy of John Dyer & Co, photograph by Linda Dyer.

RED STONES

One of the quickest ways to separate red stones from each other is the hand-held spectroscope. This handy little tool can be used on both loose and mounted stones, but a bit of practice is necessary before you can become proficient in its use. There are two types of spectroscope – the prism and diffraction grating – but in this article we will just concentrate on the patterns produced by the latter.

This spectroscope produces a linear scale and works by splitting white light into its spectral colours, so that when white light is observed all the colours of the spectrum are seen. When the light being transmitted through a gemstone is seen through a spectroscope it is sometimes possible to observe the individual absorption of specific parts of this rainbow of colours. It is this absorption of light that creates the colour Stone

we see in the gemstone and, even though to the eye stones may appear to be of a very similar colour, they can produce different patterns under this testing tool.

Not all red gems produce an individual pattern that is distinctive, but this does not reduce the use of the spectroscope. If you want to learn more about the use of handheld equipment Gem-A offers a range of courses, including an introduction to practical gemmology, which will be running on 26 October 2010 at Gem-A’s London headquarters.

Other testing techniques that can be used to help identify red stones are the Chelsea Colour Filter (CCF) and the dichroscope, both of which were covered in the first Gems of a Colour article, published in the June 2010 issue of Jewellery Focus.

View through the spectroscope

Almandinepyrope garnet

Typical effects seen using a dichroscope

View through CCF

No difference in colour seen

Dark greyish to dark red

No difference in colour seen

Often dark red

Two colours may be seen: red / orangered

Red to very bright red

No difference in colour seen

Red to very bright red

Two colours may be seen: pink / deep red

Dull red

Three dark bands are typically seen in the bluegreen, mid-green and yellow. Note that this pattern can be seen not only for almandine garnet but also for other garnet varieties.

Red glass

Red glass can produce various spectra depending on how it is coloured. For example some stones show a single dark band in the green, while others may show a total absorption (ie a broad dark band) of colours other than red.

Note: synthetic ruby can produce the same spectrum.

Ruby

A broad dark band over the yellow and green portion of the spectrum and fine lines in the middle of the blue as well as lines in the red.

Red spinel

A wide band over the green portion of the spectrum is seen but its width and darkness may vary. Fine lines are often seen in the red (the position of the centre band is often less wide and does not cover as much of the yellow compared to the spectrum of ruby).

Red tourmaline

Not all red tourmalines have a noticeable spectrum but some may show a greying out over the green portion and lines in the blue.



67

68

RED STONES

Hand held spectroscope

Image seen through a spectroscope when looking at white light

Stone under test

Pen-torch producing white light (Note: not all LED torches produce a suitable white for use with a spectroscope)

Range of spectroscopes available from Gem-A Instruments

To find out more about red stones and to look at a wide range of samples, why not go along to Gem-A’s September trade evening. This is to be held at Gem-A’s London headquarters near Hatton Garden on 7 September at 6.15pm (free to Gem-A members, £5 non-members).

This evening has been scheduled to coincide with the International Jewellery London (IJL) fair being held at Earls Court 2, so why not make a day of it and visit Gem-A at stand J50 to find out about general courses and bespoke training to suit your company needs.

For more details go to www.gem-a.com or call 0207 404 3334.

Now that we have looked at how these materials may be identified, let us consider their care and caution: Gemstone

Durability

General care

Workshop care

Comments

Garnet

Hardness – 6½ - 7½ Toughness – Good Stability – Good

Usually very durable.

Avoid: • heat • thermal shock as abrupt changes of temperature may cause fracturing • steam cleaners • the jewellers’ torch Note: Gentle boiling only

Garnet topped doublets are sometimes found in older jewellery as replacement stones.

Glass, red

Hardness – 5-5½ Toughness – Fair to good Stability – Good

Glass is brittle so avoid knocks.

Avoid: • heat • thermal shock

This artificial material can be created in any colour and shade.

Ruby

Hardness –9 Toughness – Excellent Stability – Very good

Safe to use in jewellery dips. Usually very durable except for glass treated stones.

Avoid: • coating with borax before applying heat as it may eat into the corundum • polishing diffused or coated stones • using any chemical cleaners or pickles with glass treated or dyed stones

There are many treatments that can have an impact on durability, including glass-filling. Synthetic ruby is also readily available and has similar properties to natural stone.

Spinel

Hardness –8 Toughness – Good to excellent Stability – Very good

Safe to use in jewellery dips. Usually very durable.

Caution when using ultrasonic and steam cleaners.

Spinel may be heattreated but this does not impact on its durability.

Tourmaline (red tourmaline is also called rubellite)

Hardness – 7 to 7½ Toughness – Good Stability – Very good

Attracts dust readily so needs frequent cleaning.

Avoid: • ultrasonic and steam cleaners Note: Caution is advised when using heat as colour may alter and fractures could worsen.

Some red tourmaline is irradiated but there is also a lot of natural material available; this treatment does not impact on durability.

NB: Please be aware that the above information is a general guide only and each individual stone should be checked for any problems that may be unique to that stone.

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72

WORKING WITH...

Amber

The gleaming yellow gold hue of amber is one of nature’s wonders and one which has been sought after and admired for centuries. The Birmingham Assay Office’s senior valuer Phil Withington provides technical advice

A

mber lends itself perfectly to jewellery, being available in large pieces in a wide variety of stunning colours and tones.

There is evidence of amber being used in jewellery, amulets and pendants as early as 12,000 BC, and it was extremely popular in Roman times. Indeed it is alleged that the Romans would pay as much for an amber amulet as for a healthy slave.

In the 21st century amber still has wide appeal and is much loved by jewellery designers and jewellery wearers. Phil Withington, senior valuer of the SafeGuard Jewellery and Watch Valuation Service at the Birmingham Assay Office, explores some of the characteristics of amber.

Phil explains: “Amber is not a gemstone as such but is essentially fossilised resin. This resin was secreted from trees millions of years ago as their natural defence against damage. Over

time the trees fell and were carried down river to the ocean where they became covered in sediment and the resin hardened into amber.

It is therefore common for amber to contain ‘inclusions’ such as insects, grit, bark, moss and other natural impurities. Most amber originates from the Baltic coast of Russia, however there are some rare varieties from the Dominican Republic. Amber specimens may occasionally be found on European coasts, washed up after storms having been transported by nature over millions of years.”

The ‘feel good’ factor

Amber has long been believed to have powerful healing properties, and research carried out in 1886 and subsequently substantiated in the 20th century shows that indeed this could be the case. When warmed by the skin, amber releases succinic acid, which has natural analgesic, antibiotic and anti-inflammatory properties.

Amber necklaces were worn in the Middle Ages to ward off the plague and are worn by babies even now to help soothe teething pain and inflammation, while amber smoke is used in modern day aromatherapy.

WORKING WITH...

Identifying amber

Images courtesy of Goldmajor

Inevitably with such a sought after material, there are imitations and there are many pieces of so-called ‘amber’ which are not the natural material they purport to be. Simulants could be completely artificial such as glass or plastic, or they could be reconstituted amber, known as amberoid. Currently the most likely substitute is copal, another natural resin but one with different properties which has to be treated in order to achieve the beauty of natural amber.

As a jeweller, and particularly a valuer, it is obviously important to be aware of the properties of the substance in order to identify it properly.

Verifying that an item is real amber can be difficult as the definitive tests are all destructive, which is obviously not a good option when working on a valuation. Expert inspection of the piece is the first priority and then there are some tests that can be carried out on unobtrusive areas of the piece.

• Amber is naturally soft and warm to the touch, as opposed to cold hard plastic surfaces, and is easily scratched, as it is only two to three on the hardness scale.

• When touched with a very hot needle, amber melts slowly and gives off sooty flames, while copal reacts much more quickly and emits a resinous odour.

• Put some drops of alcohol, ether or nail varnish remover on the surface of the stone and wait until it evaporates. If the surface

doesn’t become sticky and alcohol evaporates easily without leaving any spots on it, then the amber is real. If the surface sticks to your fingers and you see your fingerprints left on it, then this amber is definitely fake.

• Amber produces static electricity when rubbed vigorously with a soft cloth – enough to attract fine pieces of paper.

• Under ultraviolet light, amber demonstrates fluorescence, glowing blue or yellow, while copal shows white.

• When placed in a strong saltwater solution, amber will float, unlike its simulants.

• Strange as it seems, there is a taste test for amber. Wash, rinse and dry the piece carefully and then lick! Amber should leave no after taste whereas plastics will have a chemical residue.

Valuing amber

The value of the piece will depend very much on the quality of the amber. Here colour is a major factor.

The intensity of the hue is very important, as strong vivid colours are considered more attractive and therefore more valuable. A rich reddish orange to yellow with very few inclusions and high transparency will command the highest prices, while pale, light colours with many inclusions and high opacity will be much less valuable. Unusual inclusions such as whole insects add to the provenance and unique quality of the piece and will increase the value accordingly.

FOCUS ON THE EXPERT Phil Withington IRV, RJ Val Dip, FNAG After over 20 years working in jewellery retail and as a jeweller, Phil has been valuing for SafeGuard for over 10 years. As senior valuer he not only values up to 50 items a day himself, but also handles customer queries and lends his expertise and advice to the rest of the team when they are confronted with a particularly difficult or unusual item. Phil carries out in-store event days around the country, as do all SafeGuard valuers, and enjoys the challenge of having to value an item, and explain all its intricacies while the customer looks on.

The Birmingham Assay Office was founded in 1773 to provide a hallmarking facility to the rapidly expanding local silver trade. Over 235 years it has become established as the largest UK assay office.

During the past decade the Assay Office has expanded its services further, far beyond its statutory assaying and hallmarking duties, and offers independent expert opinion on every aspect of the precious metal, jewellery and gemstone trade. SafeGuard, the independent valuation service for jewellery watches and silverware, is a subsidiary of the Birmingham Assay Office.

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76

TAKING STOCK

¯¯ Patterned wedding bands are increasingly popular

nowadays, replacing the plain band with multiple textures, colours and diamonds. Offering rings of every metal or combination of metals, as well as a bespoke service, Baird & Co works to fulfil this demand. The company’s ever popular Bianco and Renoir collections offer a variety of styles, with the added benefit of quick turnaround with all the manufacturing and hand finishing carried out under one London roof.

Information: 0207 474 7444 or www.bianco-rings.com

­­

Taking Taking stock ¬¬

These busts can be used in a small group or the larger size as a centrepiece for that stand-out item. Manufacturing at its factory in Kent, Southern Gem Displays Ltd says that it can supply lower volumes at more competitive prices than Far Eastern companies. The firm also works with clients, producing bespoke ranges to their own design and colour.

Information: 0800 328 6073 or www.jewellerydisplays.com

Moissanite UK is already enjoying repeat sales from independent retailers, and is only looking to expand in the sector. A brand leader with mail order and TV shopping networks, Moissanite UK has reported sales more than doubling over the last 12 months, investing in a second milling machine to cope with the increase in demand for bespoke jewellery pieces.

Information: 0845 644 0495 or www.moissanite.co.uk

TAKING STOCK

Fatlip, supplier of contemporary costume ­­

±±

Paradise Jewellery’s stunning Swarovski Crystal Collection is in luscious colour mixes and brilliant white. Set in sterling silver, the collection comprises sophisticated necklaces, matching pendants and earrings, rings and ‘in vogue’ bracelets with detachable charms – perfect for parties or personal pampering.

Information: 0117 377 4280 or www.paradisejewellery.net

jewellery, is launching many lines at Autumn Fair (stand L53, hall 4), including updates to the popular Amarella Collection and bold, funky acrylic and resin jewellery. All the pieces that will be on show are in stock to dispatch straight after the Fair. Fatlip adds that it “offers great margin potential and the perfect solution for a stunning Christmas range.”

Information: 01905 612 955 or www.fatlip.biz

¬¬

Tingle London is delighted with the response to its quality charm range. Every piece is finished to a high standard with attention to detail. All stockists are supported with free POS displays and all items are sold with beautifully designed packaging. Tingle London designers are continually working on new styles ahead of launching new bracelet, pendant and earring collections this summer.

Information: 0207 405 7587 or www.tinglelondon.com

­­

The modern trend for sales of small jewellery products, forming the components of a composite fashion item, can cause queues at a jewellery point of sale. Clarity & Success now offers a mobile scanner to allow staff to go with customers anywhere in the store and scan any number of items, connecting, via USB, to a POS PC. This makes the sale very fast – a matter of seconds. Once connected, the scanned products are seen in the till screen, and the mobile scanner is automatically emptied of data and is free for the next customer.

Information: 01785 255 557 or www.clarity-success.com

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EVENTS AND AUCTIONS

Events 1 – 3 August Pure London Olympia, London

www.purelondon.com

8 – 10 August JCK Toronto Metro Toronto Convention Centre – North Building Toronto, Canada www.jcktoronto.ca

22 – 25 August The Autumn Gift & Home Show RDS Simmonscourt, Dublin www.autumngiftfair.com

5 – 8 September International Jewellery London Earls Court 2 London www.jewellerylondon.com

5 – 8 September Autumn Fair International 2010 NEC, Birmingham www.autumnfair.com

12 – 14 September Top Drawer Autumn/Winter Olympia, London www.topdrawer.co.uk

27 – 31 August Tendence Frankfurt, Germany

12 – 14 September London Gift Fair 2010 Olympia London

3 – 6 September Eclat de Mode by Bijorhca Porte de Versailles, Paris

19 – 20 September Scottish Autumn Trade Fair Glasgow SECC

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Spring Fair

80

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www.scotlandtradefairs.co.uk

23 – 29 September Origin: The London Craft Fair Old Spitalfields Market London E1

1 – 2 October Artisan Warwickshire Exhibition Centre Leamington Spa

24 – 25 September Fashion & Gift Fair Yorkshire Event Centre Harrogate North Yorkshire

3 – 5 October Boutique by Chic Ricoh Arena Coventry

www.originuk.org

www.ukgrandsales.co.uk

27 September – 3 October and 5 October – 10 October Goldsmiths’ Fair 2010 Goldsmiths’ Hall London www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk

www.artisanshow.co.uk

www.boutique-by-chic.com

22 – 24 October International Jewellery and Watch Show Abu Dhabi Abu Dhabi National Exhibition Centre Abu Dhabi www.jws.ae

Auction dates 11 August Biddle & Webb Pawnbroker’s auction of unredeemed pledges Birmingham

11 September P F Windibank Antique jewellery Dorking Surrey

19 August Fellows & Sons Secondhand jewellery and watches Birmingham

21 September Capes Dunn Auctioneers Jewellery and watches Manchester

www.dnfa.com

22 September Bonhams Fine jewellery New Bond Street London

www.christies.com

14 October Fellows & Sons Antique and modern jewellery Birmingham

12 November Wellers Auctioneers Silver, jewellery and watches Chertsey Surrey

1 October Biddle & Webb Silver and jewellery Birmingham

15 October Wellers Auctioneers Pawnbroker’s unredeemed jewellery Chertsey, Surrey

23 November A F Brock & Company Antique, vintage and modern jewellery Stockport

www.biddleandwebb.com

www.fellows.co.uk

24 August A F Brock & Company Antique, vintage and modern jewellery Stockport www.afbrock.co.uk

7 September Campbells Auctions Watches, clocks and jewellery Worthing www.campbellsauctions.co.uk

www.windibank.co.uk

www.capesdunn.com

www.bonhams.com

www.biddleandwebb.com

6 October Dreweatts Fine silver jewellery and watches Donnington Priory Donnington, Newbury 6 October Christie’s Jewels at South Kensington London

www.fellows.co.uk

www.wellersauctions.com

26 October Bearnes, Hampton & Littlewood Antiques & collectibles including silver and jewellery Honiton Devon www.bhandl.co.uk

www.wellersauctions.com

www.afbrock.co.uk

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82

INDUSTRY DATA

PRICES • FIGURES • OUTLOOK Metal prices

May 10

June 10

July 10

Sterling silver (£/Kg)

371.19 369.78 354.30

Change

June 09

June 10

Variance

%

999 958 925 800

1,096 613 737,851 9 739,569

602 1,836 654,295 0 656,733

-494 1,223 -83,556 -9 -82,836

-45.1 199.5 -11.3 -100.0 -11.2

999 990 916 750 585 375

23 0 32,366 114,345 10,755 423,656 581,145

59 2 29,385 93,820 33,568 259,501 416,335

36 2 -2,981 -20,525 22,813 -164,155 -164,810

156.5 100.0 -9.2 -18.0 212.1 -38.7 -28.4

0 23,275 27 0 23,302

50 22,465 12 1 22,528

50 -810 -15 1 -774

100.0 -3.5 -55.6 100.0 -3.3

0 0 0 0 1,344,016

250 15,150 22 15,422 1,111,018

250 15,150 22 15,422 -232,998

100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 -17.3

- 4%

Gold (£/g)

26.07

26.95

25.64

- 2%

Palladium (£/g)

11.27

9.85

9.45

- 4%

Platinum (£/g)

36.46

33.87

32.26

- 5%

Rhodium (£/g)

61.17

56.03

52.28

- 7%

Iridium (£/g)

13.26

15.77

15.34

- 3%

Ruthenium (£/g)

5.26

5.37

4.60

- 14%

Scrap metal prices

May 10

June 10

July 10

Change

Sterling silver scrap (£/kg)

348.52 347.19 332.66

Silver

Gold

- 4%

9ct Gold scrap (£/g)

9.43

9.75

9.28

- 5%

14ct Gold scrap (£/g)

14.72

15.21

14.48

- 5%

18ct Gold scrap (£/g)

18.87

19.50

18.56

- 5%

22ct Gold scrap (£/g)

23.05

23.82

22.67

- 5%

Platinum (£/g)

29.44

27.35

26.05

- 5%

Data supplied courtesy of Cookson Precious Metals. www.cooksongold.com All prices shown on this page enjoy indicative status only. Jewellery Focus and Cookson Precious Metals accepts no responsibility for their accuracy or for any use to which they may be put

Diamond prices Weight

G/VVS

G/SI

J/VVS

J/SI

J/I1

0.05 Carat

1,503

977

1,165

883

714

0.10 Carat

1,752

1,134

1,546

1,014

739

0.25 Carat

2,915

1,723

2,335

1,530

1,079

0.50 Carat

6,772

3,114

3,989

2,491

2,180

0.75 Carat

7,967

4,960

5,355

3,758

3,157

1.00 Carat

14,422

7,682

9,150

6,233

4,059

The table above has been prepared by SafeGuard and is an average of the retail selling prices of round brilliant cut diamonds per carat including an average retail markup and VAT. There is no allowance for the mount but the prices have been taken from mounted goods prices. The table is also compared with International diamond prices for additional accuracy.

Compiled at 1st July 2010 / Dollar Exchange Rate 1.4902

Hallmark figures

Platinum 999 950 900 850 Palladium 999 950 500 Total

The quarter began positively with volumes of articles hallmarked by the four UK Assay Offices showing a seven per cent increase on April 2009. However, the economic uncertainty and general nervousness following the General Election in May has impacted on precious metal prices and consumer confidence, and in May the increase was down to 1.4 per cent. This was compounded in June with the distractions of the World Cup and summer weather impacting on retail footfall, resulting in hallmarking volumes falling 17 per cent against 2009. With gold at an average of £835 per oz during June it is not surprising that silver articles hallmarked vastly exceeded gold, with 1.9 million silver pieces (+5.3 per cent) hallmarked versus 1.2 million gold (-19 per cent). Overall total volumes for the quarter were 4.5 per cent down on 2009 at 3,218,274 articles, including 36,486 pieces of palladium, which continues to gain popularity.

DIRECTORY

83

DIRECTORY

To advertise in this section please call our sales team now on 01206 767797 AMBER JEWELLERY

ASSAYERS BULLION DEALERS

BARCODING LABELLING & PRINTING

BOXES, PADS & PACKAGING

BEADS

ANTIQUE REPRODUCTION

Untitled-1 1

To advertise here call 01206 767 79727/2/09

11:01:28

ASSAYERS BULLION DEALERS BOXES, PADS & PACKAGING

Want to advertise in the Directory?

Then call Jewellery Focus now on 01206 767 797

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7/15/2010 3:27:49 PM

84

DIRECTORY

BOXES, PADS & PACKAGING

CAD/CAM

CHARMS

CASTING

CLOCK DISTRIBUTORS

BUSINESS SOLUTIONS SOFTWARE CASTING Noble_ad.indd 1

7/8/10 5:35 PM

CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY

CASTINGS & FINDINGS

CHARMS

focusjewellery.com

T: 0121 745 2706 M: 07919 152136

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focus

7/15/2010 3:27:53 PM

onia Jewellery Ltd

DIRECTORY

CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY

DIAMONDS

DISPLAYS

85

ENGRAVERS

us metals, volume or one off’s. and claws in 9ct yellow/white w/white and platinum www.aconiajewelleryltd.co.uk

FINDINGS

COSTUME JEWELLERY

DIAMOND SETTINGS

ENAMELLERS

SHING

GEMSTONES

ENGRAVERS

Jewellery Focus 67

To advertise here call Jewellery Focus now on 01206 767 797

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7/15/2010 3:28:00 PM

86

DIRECTORY

GEMSTONES

GEMSTONES

HANDMADE JEWELLERY

CP2636 Jeweller (Dec 09):Jeweller (Dec 09) CP2636 Jeweller (Dec 09):Jeweller (Dec (Dec 09) 09):Jeweller 24/11/09 12:38 CP2636 Jeweller (Dec Page 09) 14 24/11/09

12:38

24/11/09

12:38

JEWELLERY EQUIPMENT

Page 14

Page 14

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS

JEWELLERS TOOLS

CP2636 Jeweller (Dec 09):Jeweller (Dec 09)

24/11/09

12:38

Page 14

JEWELLERY EQUIPMENT

Lacquer painting - Irritant

GOLD & SILVER JEWELLERY

Acid pickling - Corrosive Electroplating - Poisonous

JEWELLERY REAPIRS

The liabilities are serious if employers do not protect staff from toxic materials.

Our range of self install fume enclosures will improve conditions.

For our current catalogue call now on 020 7400 0000 www.treasurehouselimited.com

Balco

www.balco.co.uk tel. 0121 554 1026

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS

Want to advertise in the Directory?

Then call Jewellery Focus now on 01206 767 797

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DIRECTORY

JEWELLERY REPAIRS

JEWELLERY REPAIRS

PLATINUM, PEARLS, CULTURED CHAINS

87

PHOTOGRAPHY

PERSONALISED JEWELLERY PLATINUM SPECIALISTS

LUXURY GIFTS

PHOTOGRAPHY

PLATINUM, CHAINS

MASONIC JEWELLERY

POLISHING

PEARLS, CULTURED

To advertise here call Jewellery Focus now 01206 767 797

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7/15/2010 3:28:12 PM

DIRECTORY

88

SECURITY

RESTRINGING

SHOPFITTING

SILVER JEWELLERY

SHOPFITTING

TROPHIES & MEDALS

RING SIZE GAUGES

WATCH REPAIRS

F O R

R I N G S

T H A T

F I T

PACKED IN COLOUR INSTRUCTION ENVELOPES

“Can you afford to leave one out of your mailing?”

To advertise here call 01206 767 797

www.multisizers.com Tel 01481 253244 SCRAP PURCHASE

SILVER JEWELLERY

To advertise here call Jewellery Focus now on 01206 767 797

classaug10.indd 8

7/15/2010 3:28:17 PM

DIRECTORY/NOTICE BOARD/RECRUITMENT

WATCH REPAIRS

WEDDING RINGS

89

RECRUITMENT

Visual Merchandiser Midlands / North West England Trollbeads - the original established brand in the collectable jewellery concept with coverage throughout the UK and Ireland, with over 30 years of history.

We require a Visual Merchandiser to support existing and new retailers in providing merchandising support and in store staff product training.

The successful candidate will have merchandising experience, be well presented and be able to convey the Trollbeads brand message. The role will be part-time and on a self employed basis so the successful candidate needs to be a car owner and able to work on their own initiative. Full training will be given.

Please forward your CV to richard@fabletrading.co.uk or telephone 0117 377 4214

WATCHES

VM Ad July 2010.indd 1

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NOTICE BOARD

Want an ad but have no artwork?

Don’t panic! We can help.

At Jewellery Focus we have a free advert typesetting service.

So when you book an advert with us, our production department will get straight on the case.

Call our sales team now on 01206 767 797.

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7/15/2010 3:28:20 PM

90

YOUR VIEWS

Voice

onthe

highstreet

ANDREW and DEBBIE MARSHALL of Head and Hart, Maidstone So, Andrew, how did you get into the jewellery business?

My parents David and Jackie started their company Lumar Jewels in 1977 because they were both fed up working for other people and wanted to do their own thing. They created a loyal customer base because of who they were and how they treated people, and also good relationships with suppliers.

I joined the company in 1993 after spending 12 years working in totally different areas to retailing, and introduced computers and a stock control system instead of the stock book. We became a very dynamic team and worked well together, then I gradually took over more responsibility and this gave my parents the chance to retire and enjoy life.

You have recently opened a new shop in Maidstone, why this location?

We started to look at towns around Kent and every time we arrived in Maidstone we were impressed with how the town felt – vibrant with an exciting mix of people. The shop that we are fitting out now was vacant and in a really good spot with excellent footfall – we couldn’t believe our luck!

Being an independent is very difficult at times as it seems that landlords are only interested in multiples, which means the highstreet becomes boring and the same in every town.

We knew we wanted to be on the highstreet – as a family business we are all too aware of the strains of working Sundays and late nights and the other conditions imposed by shopping centres.

Did you have a lot of input in the design of the new shop?

We had a tremendous input in the design of the shop because we wanted to make the shop entirely different to anything in Maidstone. For this reason we took the bold step of using a Kent-based design company, Ordeso, run by Matt Lacey and Toby Kearns, that had not designed a jewellers before. A friend of ours, Mark Whitehouse, runs his own Kent-based marketing company – Seek a Second Opinion – and he also had a huge influence in how we have developed the company brand and identity.

What features of the shop do you think will appeal to customers?

We often look at the multiples or the more traditional jewellers and they are all made to look the same for corporate identity or because that is what a jewellers is supposed to look like, but in truth they all end up boring with light wood and glass galore. We have obviously got display cabinets and a counter but we have chosen materials to enhance the environment and create a luxurious atmosphere. A stone facade wall and a curved leather covered wall are just two features, with all the cabinets and counters bespoke-made and stylish stools available for customers to sit on.

What types of jewellery do you stock?

Stephen Webster, Shaun Leane and Becca Hulbert are designers that we show in their silver ranges, with Lucas Jack providing a vibrant costume jewellery collection; for watches we have Issey Miyake, Ice and BCBG Max Azria. We also stock personally selected diamond and gem set jewellery with some in nine carat and 18 carat gold alongside diamond solitaires, eternity and wedding rings. Chamilia is our chosen bead brand because we love the product for its quality but also because it tries to be different. As a company they are also very supportive and pleasant, something that we value in the customer-client relationship.

Do you have any favourite jewellery collections or designers?

We have only chosen those brands that we genuinely like because we feel that if you are passionate and excited by the jewellery you will pass this on to your customer. One of my personal favourites is Shaun Leane’s BlackThorn collection, which is darkly beautiful; but on the other hand I get a real buzz from Stephen Webster’s Jewels Verne collection and the impressive eye for detail alongside his use of different gemstones such as sugulite.

What are the main problems facing jewellery retailers today?

Staying different and appealing to others in your field, and to do this you have to adapt and do it quickly. We are creating a dramatic environment to showcase the very best in British design and as a family-run business we are doing this with the customer in mind. To remain in control of your own destiny is really quite special and we appreciate customers choose where they spend their money.

What’s the best advice you’ve been given during your career?

If you feel you’re taking a risk, remember that “out on a limb is where the fruit is.”

A fresh summer collection from

symbolising love, eternity and adoration.

This stunning Pendant, earring and ring set is available in 3 different weights 0.33ct, 0.50ct and 0.75ct For more information or to book an appointment visit www.bnrings.com or call our sales team on 01707 255000

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