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SPRING 2012 IS THE SEASON OF THE PERSONALITY. THE VISIONARY AND SOUL BEHIND A LABEL – THEIR UNTOLD STORIES AND THEIR DREAMS WOVEN INTO FANTASY RICH FABRICS AND COLOURS. FROM MIUICCIA (PRADA) TO MARC (JACOBS) TO THE UNFLAPPABLE AND GREAT KARL (LAGERFELD) – THIS SEASON WE SEE THE TRUE SPIRITS OF THESE DIVINE FASHION BEINGS AND THEIR OWN INDIVIDUALITY IMPRINTED ON THE CATWALKS. DOLCE & GABBANA: Domenico Dolce and Stefano
BY MARLENE NAICKER
Gabbana delight us with boundless female sensuality that is Sophia Loren, Italian summers in the ‘50s and La Dolce Vita in their Spring/Summer 2012. Sashaying models in fifties-inspired corseted dresses and swimsuits all printed in a vibrant cornucopia of market stall vegetable prints – to fluttery 3D lace skirts and curve hugging bejewelled dresses – hitting on the three keynote trends of the season: 3-D Lace, jewelled embroidery and vibrant, bold colourings!
RUNWAY UPDATE
SS 2012
CHANEL: Like Ariel’s inspired aquatic water wonderland – we are transported by Chanel to a more grown-up version of the little Mermaid. From gleaming white stingrays, to sea horses adrift on sandy sea beds... the models could be forgiven for resembling magical deep-sea sirens - drenched in pearls, waffle textured organzas, tweed knits and a palette of soft, muted pinks and blues. And what would Karl be – without emulating one of the key looks of the season: Pleated Skirts – using an elaborate pleating and draping technique that transformed organza and seaweed motif into wearable skirts.
Simply sublime. Simply Chanel. *- $ ?6CJ6GN '%&'
OSCAR DE LA RENTA: Nobody captures the soul of everyday woman as
well as Oscar. The seasonal mood is optimistic, exuberant and you see that in his pre-Raphaelite model lookalikes and the pungent colours of yellows, lime green, indigo blues and reds. Add two-thirds of coloured spice, Sissi of Austria taffeta ball gowns, silk tweed cardigans and cocktail frocks shimmied with tassels, to create the 2012 insouciant luxe that is Oscar!
WOW MOMENTS TO WATCH OUT FOR IN
2012
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BALMAIN: The Parisian house known for its rock-chic
sexiness, evolved by upcoming new talent, Olivier Rousteing, who might just surprise with a voice of his own in coming years. Emulating the couture heritage of Balmain during the Oscar de la Renta reign, he has unleashed rich, detailed embroidery in coppers and bronzes in every piece, from white jeans to chambray shirts. RODARTE: Taking inspiration from famous
artworks took centre-stage with the Mulleavy sisters. From the sun-kissed sunflower filled Provencal fields of Vincent van Gogh to Mediterranean skies lit by a full moon and galaxies away â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the prints embossed in fragile tulle ruffles and buoyant skirts and bodices â&#x20AC;&#x201C; enchanted with its sunny disposition and fail-proof optimism.
JACINTH BLUES:
Cool, demure, soft, radiant, the Jacinth blueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s composing soothing melodies like little brooks, gaining speed towards deep azure indigo blues, reminding us of long summery evenings â&#x20AC;&#x201C; stranded on deserted islands â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with only the calm of the tide ebbing and flowing for company.
COLOUR PALETTE
S/S 2012
LIME GREEN:
Add a dash of summery green foliage, a splice of yellow lime â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with just a hint of gold to create the summery, bright and effervescent lime green. Seen on cocktail dresses from Oscar to Muldooneys lime green nubuckinspired accessories.
BURNT ORANGE:
From cinnamon spice to tangerine â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the orange gets a makeover â&#x20AC;&#x201C; for vibrancy and pungency. Indigo Blue, Copper & Bronze, Rifle Green and Shangri grey mists â&#x20AC;&#x201C; are all this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s key influencers and runner ups!
?6CJ6GN '%&' $ *.
2012
FASHION
TRENDS BOTTEGA VENETA
PRADA
AQUILANO_RIMONDI
PETER SOM
PLEATS: Yes Please. Muiccia led the way and we all
followed. Pleats made its way into skirt, dresses and pants. VERSACE
ERDEM
PRINTS, PRINTS & MORE PRINTS : Striking and strict
in all shapes and forms. Digitally manipulated flora to abstract blooms – prints emblazoned razor sharp blouses and skirts.
VERSACE JIL SANDER
BALENCIAGA
FENDI RALPH LAUREN
SKIRTS : Nothing screams ladylike elegance
like a tailored skirt and killer heels. 2012 is the return of the skirt! Combined in muted pastels and chiffon layers. +% $ ?6CJ6GN '%&'
LOUIS VUITTON
KEEP IT SHORT: The sporty shorts – has been revamped into elegant, tailored short-suits, creating a wonderful and easy flow from chic daywear into ladylike night elegance. Textures are sumptuous, fabrics rich and decadent.
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PRADA
DOLCE & GABBANA
MULDOONEYS MABEL
EMBELLISHMENTS: The most talked about trend this season â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from shoes to bags. Swarovski coloured gems, to crystals and gold studs â&#x20AC;&#x201C; dampening out the start contrast of the winter blacks and greys of last season.
CHRISTOPHER KANE
DOLCE & GABBANA
TRENDS
VERSACE
LADYLIKE PASTELS: LONG EARRINGS:
BALMAIN
This is reworked into accessories, creating a muted colour palette from the vibrancy of the runway catwalk
PUCCI NINARICCI
JIL SANDER
MICHAEL KORS
PRADA
MARC JACOBS
ARMANI
YVES SAINT LAUREN
BOTTEGA-VENETA
These are still dazzling the catwalk this spring! From Marni to Dolce & Gabbana.
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
2012
ACCESSORY
MARNI
BELTS: They are back! With feminine
shapes, worn high and low on the waist! We love Balmainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s embellished versions...
THE HAT: Polished, highly original and appeared to be as natural as possible â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and not at all as just a last minute addition for styling effect.
Marlene Naicker is Founder and Creative Director of Muldooneys â&#x20AC;&#x201C; London. The brand Muldooneys is renowned for its luxury leather accessories, notably handbags, designed for sophisticated, independent, fashion concious women. ?6CJ6GN '%&' $ +&