IT’S ALL IN THE DETAILS
BY MARLENE NAICKAR
Spring 2012 is here and as the blooms begin to awaken from their long slumber - so too do the catwalks, which come alive with robust colours, fabrics and textures - and it is clear this season, MORE is the new IN. From refined details in lace and flower embellishments, to high-waisted peplums, flower headpieces and swathes of textured organza, tulle and taffeta.
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
For me Giambattista Valli has scored top marks this season. It is hard to conceive that this is only his second couture collection. As he has amped up the old school glamour gigabyte factor with contemporary vava-voom dressing. His usage of flowing Grecian gowns, and cocktail dresses – swathed in organza, tulle and lace with embellishments – all blend in perfect harmony. From flower epaulets to cocktail dresses dense with beaded embellishments, to the scattering of hydrangea florets across fragile lace, chiffon and cloudy crinoline skirts. Hydrangeas – lush, abundant and intoxicating and Valli has used the spring bloom to full effect – in vibrant shades that emit a rush of warmth to the viewer. Headdresses to this seasons must-have shoulder-less boucli jackets, prettily encircled with tiny blossoms. His evening gowns embody chic romanticism – draped chiffon in organza and colours like biscuit porcelain immersed in tiny florets of little blooms all scattered to create a lavish spectacle. Black and white lace so reminiscent of Monica Belluci in the Dolce Vita 60s – is perfectly married with sleeveless black lacquered crocodile jackets-cut from skins sliced so fine that you could be forgiven for thinking they were mere prints. Valli played with our imaginings of all things fertile and spring, using robust colours, lily of the valley blossoms and hydrangeas to the call of the wild, with crocodile textures to create wearable but decidedly feminine clothes, that drape and create a heady, giddy romanticism. ,- $ B6G8= '%&'
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VALENTINO
Tailored, sleek and extraordinary hand-detailing encompassing floral bloomed prints, inspirations from the artist Paul Delvaux, looking towards the French queen Marie Antoinette and her pale gowns, to Deborah Turbeville and life was breathed into Valentine Couture 2012. The gifted duo Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli harnessed the full power of seam stressing and wooed us with the hand-detailing and relentlessly long hours spent on each garment. Total of 3050 hours of labour for some of the eye-catchers in his collection. It is this precision to detail and the endless hours spent to spin this magic that creates couture at its highest level.
CHANEL In the Blue; all 154 shades of this once innocuous colour, which symbolised Karlâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s showing for Spring Couture. The colour of air, the sky. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Most becoming colour. I am so bored with the red carpet - why not a blue carpet?â&#x20AC;? mused the outspoken Chanel Couturier...and he is right. Blue, the colour of his Burmese cat to the intensity of sapphires. Witty, simple but chic, cleverly constructed colour block dresses. Day dresses treated in Chanelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s statement tweeds, bisected with bands around the collar bone and pockets. The effortlessness of this collection is reminiscent of Coco Chanel herself; relaxed with her habitual gentle ease of stance. A little masculine at times and then pushing towards extreme femininity, by playing with embellishments from crystals and lurex in chic evening suits. Longer, slimmer silhouettes, ankle length coat dresses, narrow skirts all accentuating the proportions and the feminine form. B6G8= '%&' $ ,.
CHRISTIAN DIOR
In attempting to leave behind the John Galliano, fracas , the new, reserved creative director at the helm William Gayten chose to take a more serene, tried and tested route. Whilst it is clever in the sense that this season and for seasons to come it is all about that 50s glamour in pretty, feminine and elegant clothes, but with a modern 21st century tone. I cannot help but feel it had a little less of the spark than with Galliano, still the collection did justice
feminine form decorated with inverted tonal stitching adding to the detail:
VERSACE
Sliced, thin leather skins topped up with flowers on tops and skirts; Organza
towering on golden stairs in a collection that is neither modest
ruffles embellished with floral patterns; Tulle and lace in 18th century ball
nor reserved. Big, bold and emulating a Versace rock-goddess
gowns with a 21st century twist; Bold, robust purple hues, in clingy chiffon...
attitude. Silvery and gold filigree chiffon, with angular collar-
all adding to the heritage that has shaped this house. I go out on a limb and
bone detailing, to shorts and long sleeved jackets teamed with
wait with bated breath for his second couture collection as I feel he has yet
high boots, giving you a full â&#x20AC;&#x153;Captain Americaâ&#x20AC;? effect. This
to show us his full form.
was really a collection that was avant-garde and daring.
to the House of Dior, as mediocrity is one thing this house is not famed for. From the asymmetrical black and white day dresses, accentuating the sleek
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The return of the power woman. Think futuristic glamazons
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ARMANI
Always known for his wearability, he did not disappoint, in a collection that was constructed from geometric shapes and scales of all things reptilian. The whole collection was based on serpents, from textures and patterns, to colours poison green, teal and chartreuse. His day wear, essentially pencil skirts, had full frontal folds that added volume and gave a new twist to the peplum effect. Narrow pants, with crocodile textured jackets once again. And his evening gowns shed the final skin in his show with shiny, powerful and sleek gowns, with a serpentine allure.
Marlene Naicker - Founder/Creative Director Muldooneys. The brand Muldooneys is renowned for its luxury, discerning leather accessories â&#x20AC;&#x201C; notably handbags â&#x20AC;&#x201C; designed for the sophisticated, independent and fashion conscious woman. www.muldooneys.com. www.facebook.com/Muldooneys
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