MUMS WARDROBE
RUCHED JERSEY ZEBRA LONG SLEEVE TOP
BLACK AND WHITE STRIPED RUCHED JERSEY LONG SLEEVE TOP SIZE 12 MADE FROM BAMBOO VISCOSE FABRIC AND OFF-CUT SWEATSHIRT RIBBED FABRIC FROM A FAST FASHION SUPPLIER
BLACK AND WHITE STRIPED RUCHED MIDI SKIRT SIZE 12 OFF-CUT SWEATSHIRT FLEECE AND RIBBED FABRIC FROM A FAST FASHION SUPPLIER
CONTENTS DESIGNER: KAITLYN STOCKPORT
MUMS WARDROBE
SIGNED:
DESCRIPTION:
DATE: 10.03.18
STUDENT NO: DEADLINE:
RUCHED JERSEY ZEBRA LONG SLEEVE TOP
14017486 06.04.18
12
SIZE: COLLECTION: PROJECT:
SEASON:
AW18
TRUE COLOURS
TARGET PRICE: £26
FINAL COLLECTION
STYLE NO: TJ18001
BRAND IDENTITY
1
COMPETITOR CHART (MARKET LEVEL)
2
MARKET ANALYSIS
3
CUSTOMER PROFILE
4
DESIGN ROOM SPEC
5
DESIGN ROOM SPEC (TECHNICAL)
6
CUTTING ROOM SPEC
7
PRODUCTION ROOM SPEC
8
LAYPLAN
9
BILL OF MATERIALS
10
MEASUREMENTS
11
SIZE CHART/ GRADE RULE
12
LABELLING
13
SAMPLING PROCESS
14-16
SKIRT LAYPLAN/CUTTING SPEC
17
TOILE FITTING EVALUATION
18
CRITICAL PATH
19
FINAL GARMENT
20
BRAND IDENTITY DESIGNER: KAITLYN STOCKPORT
MUMS WARDROBE
SIGNED:
DESCRIPTION:
DATE: 10.03.18
STUDENT NO: DEADLINE:
RUCHED JERSEY ZEBRA LONG SLEEVE TOP
14017486 06.04.18
12
SIZE: COLLECTION: PROJECT:
SEASON:
AW18
TRUE COLOURS
TARGET PRICE: £26
FINAL COLLECTION
STYLE NO: TJ18001
First envisioned in 2012 by Kaitlyn Stockport, Who spent her days re-styling her Mums old clothes into something new. She aspires to create Mums Wardrobe. A conscious fashion brand dedicated to producing well designed wearable garments; which are made by using sustainable & ethical fabrics, often inspired by Vintage garments. By creating Mums Wardrobe, she hopes to further develop incorporating better practices in sustainable design and manufacturing in order to make commercial styles fashionable at a fraction of the environmental impact of conventional fashion & hopefully inspire others to do so too. Making the world a better place one stitch at a time.
1
COMPETITOR CHART DESIGNER: KAITLYN STOCKPORT
MUMS WARDROBE
SIGNED:
DESCRIPTION:
DATE: 10.03.18
STUDENT NO: DEADLINE:
14017486 06.04.18
RUCHED JERSEY ZEBRA LONG SLEEVE TOP
12
SIZE: COLLECTION: PROJECT:
SEASON:
AW18
TRUE COLOURS
TARGET PRICE: £26
FINAL COLLECTION
STYLE NO: TJ18001
(MARKET LEVEL) HIGH END
£
HIGHSTREET BUT NICHE BRAND
£££ JOIN LIFE
HIGH STREET 2
MARKET ANALYSIS DESIGNER: KAITLYN STOCKPORT
MUMS WARDROBE
SIGNED:
DESCRIPTION:
DATE: 10.03.18
STUDENT NO: DEADLINE:
RUCHED JERSEY ZEBRA LONG SLEEVE TOP
14017486 06.04.18
12
SIZE: COLLECTION: PROJECT:
SEASON:
AW18
TRUE COLOURS
TARGET PRICE: £26
FINAL COLLECTION
STYLE NO: TJ18001
MUMS WARDROBE AIMS TO PRICE THE RUCHED BAMBOO VISCOSE JERSEY ZEBRA STRIPED RUCHED LONG SLEEVE TOP AT AROUND £26-£34 RRP. IT IS CLEAR AFTER MARKET RESEARCH THAT THERE IS NOT CURRENTLY MANY/ANY SUSTAINABLE HIGH STREET LEVEL BRANDS TO COMPARE MUMS WARDROBE WITH. REMADE TOP REWORKED OFF CUTS REMADE IN ENGLAND FABRIC: MIX VINTAGE FIBRES PRICE: £24 SIZE: S/M
DRAPED TOP USING MAINLY NATURAL ECO FRIENDLY FABRIC FABRIC: Viscose 94%; Elastane 6% PRICE: £24.99 SIZE: 6-18
THIS IS WHY MUMS WARDROBE FEELS THERE IS A GAP IN THE MARKET FOR ECO FASHION TO EMMERGE.
GATHERED LONG SLEEVE TOP HIGH END PARTLY SUSTAINABLE BRAND FABRIC: 100% Viscose PRICE: £*** UNKNOWN SIZE: 6-14
LEOPARD BOMBER JACKET NOT PART OF ECO COLLECTION* BUT ASOS HAS ECO ELEMENTS FABRIC: 100% Polyester PRICE: £22 SIZE: 4-18
GRATEFUL PRINT DRAPE TOP RED HIGH END PARTLY SUSTAINABLE BRAND FABRIC: JERSEY UNKNOWN PRICE: £210 SIZE: XS-3XL
3
CUSTOMER PROFILE DESIGNER: KAITLYN STOCKPORT
MUMS WARDROBE
SIGNED:
DESCRIPTION:
DATE: 10.03.18
STUDENT NO: DEADLINE:
RUCHED JERSEY ZEBRA LONG SLEEVE TOP
14017486 06.04.18
12
SIZE: COLLECTION: PROJECT:
SEASON:
AW18
TRUE COLOURS
TARGET PRICE: £26
FINAL COLLECTION
STYLE NO: TJ18001
INSPIRED BY THE “CONFETTI CROWD” A GROUP OF 4 ECO CONSCIOUS, COLOURFUL BLOGGERS.
4
DESIGN ROOM SPEC DESIGNER: KAITLYN STOCKPORT
MUMS WARDROBE
SIGNED:
DESCRIPTION:
DATE: 10.03.18
STUDENT NO: DEADLINE:
14017486 06.04.18
RUCHED JERSEY ZEBRA LONG SLEEVE TOP
12
SIZE: COLLECTION: PROJECT:
SEASON:
AW18
TRUE COLOURS
TARGET PRICE: £26
FINAL COLLECTION
STYLE NO: TJ18001
WOMENSWEAR BLACK AND WHITE RUCHED JERSEY LONG SLEEVE TOP WITH RIBBED CUFFS AND COLLAR, MAIN BLACK AND WHITE PANELS - 180GSM 95% BAMBOO VISCOSE, 5% ELASTHANE JERSEY AND BLACK RIBBED COLLAR & CUFFS UNPICKED FROM DONATED OFF-CUTS FROM A FAST FASHION SUPPLIER. JOINED TOGETHER PANELS FRONT BACK AND SLEEVES WITH SHIRRING ELASTIC TO CREATE RUCHING. NARROW BYTE OVERLOCKED FRILLED HEM. LABELLING PRINTED ONTO REMNANT FABRIC. THE RUCH TOP IS INSPIRED BY ZEBRA PRINT - A TIMELESS PRINT WHICH OFTEN COMES IN AND OUT OF THE FASHION TREND LIFECYCLE. THIS TOP MAKES A BOLD STATEMENT AND REPRESENTS HOW SUSTAINABLE ECO FRIENDLY CLOTHING CAN STILL BE FUN AND FASHIONABLE AND STANDS OUT FROM THE CROWD OF FAST FASHION CONSUMERS.
DESIGN DETAIL NOTES FABRIC MAIN:
95% Bamboo Viscose 5% Elasthane
SPOOL THREAD:
BAMBOO VISCOSE JERSEY BLACK AND WHITE WHITE SHIRRING ELASTIC
OTHER FABRIC: DONATED OFFCUT RIBBED TRIMS
THREAD: WHITE 120
COLOUR:
FASTENING:
BLACK AND WHITE
BLACK NYLON OPEN END REVERSIBLE ZIPPER
5
DESIGN ROOM SPEC TECH DESIGNER: KAITLYN STOCKPORT
MUMS WARDROBE
SIGNED:
DESCRIPTION:
DATE: 10.03.18
STUDENT NO: DEADLINE:
RUCHED JERSEY ZEBRA LONG SLEEVE TOP
14017486 06.04.18
12
SIZE: COLLECTION: PROJECT:
SEASON:
AW18
TRUE COLOURS
TARGET PRICE: £26
FINAL COLLECTION
STYLE NO: TJ18001
FRONT = F WHITE = W FOLLOWED BY SLEEVE = S BLACK = B PATTERN PIECE BACK = B NUMBERS
RIBBED COLLAR
BW1
FW1
BB1
FW3
FB3 FW4
FB4
FW5 BABY OVERLOCK HEM IN WHITE 120***
BB2
SW
1
FB2
SB
FW2
BW2
SW1
FB1
BW3
2
BB3
SB
2
BW4
BB4
SW
3
BW5
SB3
SW
4
SB4
SW5
RIBBED CUFFS
BABY OVERLOCK HEM IN WHITE 120*** WHITE AND BLACK PIECES TO BE JOINED TOGETHER WITH ELASTICATED SPOOLING
BABY OVERLOCK SEAM JOINS INSIDE WHITE 120***
6
CUTTING ROOM SPEC DESIGNER: KAITLYN STOCKPORT
MUMS WARDROBE
SIGNED:
DESCRIPTION:
DATE: 10.03.18
STUDENT NO:
14017486
DEADLINE:
06.04.18
RUCHED JERSEY ZEBRA LONG SLEEVE TOP
FRONT = F WHITE = W FOLLOWED BY SLEEVE = S BLACK = B PATTERN PIECE BACK = B NUMBERS
12
SIZE: COLLECTION: PROJECT:
CUFF 1
SEASON:
AW18
TRUE COLOURS
TARGET PRICE: £26
FINAL COLLECTION
STYLE NO: TJ18001
COLLAR FOR RUCH TOP
6CM (12CM UNFOLDED)
100CM
CUFF 2
RED= OFFCUTS
WAISTBAND FOR RUCH SKIRT
RIBBED SWEATSHIRT FABRIC UNPICKED FROM SWEATSHIRT DONATED OFFCUTS SWEATSHIRT MAIN FABRIC USED FOR RUCHED SKIRT.
100CM
100CM
FB1
FW2 FW3
FB2
FW4
FB3
FB4
FW5 BW1
BB1
BW2
160CM
160CM
BB2
BW3
BB3
BW4
BB4
BW5
SW1
SW1
SW2
SW2
SW3
SW3
SW4
SW4
SW5
SW5
SB1
SB1
SB2
SB2
SB3
SB3
SB4
SB4
FABRIC UTILISATION: APPROX 70% WASTE: APPROX 30%
NOT TO SCALE*
WHITE BAMBOO FABRIC BLACK BAMBOO FABRIC 1M OF WHITE FABRIC AND 1M OF BLACK FABRIC WITH 160CM WIDTH THE MOST EFFICIENT WAY TO UTILISE THE FABRIC WAS TO FOLD IN HALF WHERE THE DOTTED LINES ARE AND CUT ON THE FOLD WHERE THE GRAINLINE MARKS ARE ON THE PATTERNS. IT WAS EASIER TO CUT THE PIECES IN ORDER HOWEVER THERE COULD POSSIBLY BE VARIOUS CHANGES TO THE PLACEMENT OF THE PATTERNS TO BEST UTILISE THE FABRIC FURTHER. IN PRODUCTION THERE WOULD BE MORE THAN ONE PATTERN FOR 1 GARMENT THEREFORE MORE PATTERN PIECES COULD BE ‘TETRISED’ MEANING FITTED TOGETHER FILLING IN THE SPARE SPACES, THE OFF CUTS FROM PRODUCTION COULD BE USED FOR ANOTHER GARMENT AS THE DESIGNER TRIED TO ENSURE THERE WOULD NOT BE MANY SMALL SCRAPS, LUCKILY THE FABRIC IS MADE FROM 95% NATURAL FIBRES THEREFORE ANY SCRAPS UNUSED COULD BE COMPOSTED AND DECOMPOSE FAR QUCIKER THAN SYNTHETIC FABRICS, INITIALLY THE OFF-CUTS WOULD BE DONATED TO COMPANIES LIKE FABSCRAP IN NYC OR RECYCLED INTO NEW FABRIC... 7
PRODUCTION ROOM SPEC DESIGNER: KAITLYN STOCKPORT
MUMS WARDROBE
SIGNED:
DESCRIPTION:
DATE: 10.03.18
STUDENT NO: DEADLINE:
06.04.18
RUCHED JERSEY ZEBRA LONG SLEEVE TOP
TS - TOP STITCH OPERATIONS
JOINING THE FRONT PIECES
FB1 TO FW2 TO FB2 TO FW3 TO FB3 TO FW4 TO FB4 TO FW5
JOINING THE SLEEVE PIECES JOIN THE SLEEVE UNDER ARMS TOGETHER
JOINING THE SEAMS JOIN THE FRONT AND BACK SHOULDERS TOGETHER JOIN THE FRONT AND BACK SIDES TOGETHER JOIN THE SLEEVE TO ARMHOLE ON THE ROUND
FINISHINGS
BAG OUT THE RIB COLLAR PIECE
ATTACH THE RIBBED COLLAR TO NECKLINE BAG OUT CUFF PIECES ATTACH CUFFS TO ENDS OF SLEEVES BABY OVERLOCK THE HEM OF THE FRONT AND BACK BABY OVERLOCK NEATEN JOINED SEAMS
PROJECT:
1CM 1CM 1CM
N/A 12-15PCM N/A 12-15PCM N/A 12-15PCM
90 90 90
LS 301
120 120
1CM 1CM
N/A 12-15PCM N/A 12-15PCM
90 90
LS 301 4T OL
120 120
1CM 1CM
N/A 12-15PCM 3MM
90
4T OL 4T OL 4T OL
120 120 120
1CM 3MM 1CM 3MM 1CM 3MM
LS 301 4T OL LS 301 4T OL
120 120 120 120 120 120 N/A
1CM 1CM 1CM 1CM N/A 1CM N/A
LS 301
JOINING THE BACK PIECES
SW1 TO SB1 TO SW2 TO SB2 TO SW3 TO SB3 TO SW4 TO SB4 TO SW5
COLLECTION:
120 120 120
JOIN BW1 TO BB1 (JOIN FROM NOTCH TO NOTCH) LS 301 BB1 TO BW2 TO BB2 TO BW3 TO BB3 TO BW4 TO BB4 TO BW5
12
SIZE:
UNION SPECIAL THREAD
UNION SPECIAL THREAD
IRON
N/A 12-15PCM 3MM N/A 12-15PCM 3MM 3MM 3MM N/A
SEASON:
AW18
TRUE COLOURS
TARGET PRICE: £26
FINAL COLLECTION
STYLE NO: TJ18001
TRIM STITCH MACHINE THREAD SEAM OFF PER CM NEEDLE
JOIN THE PIECES TOGETHER START WITH FW1 LS 301 FW1 TO FB1 (JOIN FROM NOTCH TO NOTCH) LS 301
STEAM FINISH
14017486
COMMENTS JOIN TOGETHER WITH ELASTIC SPOOL**
FOLLOW THE NOTCHES MAKE SURE ELASTIC SPOOL IS LEFT LONGER SO IT DOES NOT COME OUT/UNDONE
JOIN TOGETHER WITH ELASTIC SPOOL**
X2 SLEEVES APPLY TO BOTH INSERT CAREWASH LABEL INTO SIDE SEAM ON THE INSIDE
90 90
THE RIB JOIN TO ONE OF THE SHOULDER SEAMS* INSERT FOLDED IN HALF MAIN LABEL TO CENTRE BACK OF NECKLINE ON THE INSIDE
PLEASE USE WHITE 120 THREADS* DO NOT CATCH THE ELASTIC*
8
LAYPLAN DESIGNER: KAITLYN STOCKPORT
MUMS WARDROBE
SIGNED:
DESCRIPTION:
DATE: 10.03.18
STUDENT NO:
14017486
DEADLINE:
06.04.18
RUCHED JERSEY ZEBRA LONG SLEEVE TOP
12
SIZE: COLLECTION: PROJECT:
AW18
SEASON:
TRUE COLOURS
TARGET PRICE: £26
FINAL COLLECTION
STYLE NO: TJ18001
COLLAR FOR RUCH TOP FRONT PIECES*
SW1
FW1
SW1
FB1 SB1
FW2
SB1
SW2
FB2
SW2
SB2
FW3
SB2
SW3
FB3
SW3
SB3
FB4
FW4
SB3
SW4
FW5
SW4
SB4
BACK PIECES*
SB4
SW5 CUFF 1 SLEEVE PIECES*
BW1
BB1
SW5 CUFF 2 SLEEVE PIECES*
BW2
BB2 BW3
BB3 BW4
BB4 BW5
THE CUTTING OUT LAYPLAN CAN BE SEEN ON PAGE 7 ON THE CUTTING ROOM SPEC INFORMATION. THIS PAGE SHOWS HOW THE PATTERN PIECES ARE LAYED OUT READY TO BE JOINED TOGETHER, AS SEEN FROM WHAT INITIALLY LOOKS LIKE LOTS OF PIECES OF PATTERNS ONCE LAYED OUT TOGETHER THE SLEEVE, FRONT BODICE AND BACK BODICE BECOME CLEARER IN TO SHAPE. THE PATTERNS WERE EACH EXTENDED BY 10CM IN ORDER FOR THEM TO BE RUCHED BACK DOWN TO ORIGINAL SIZE*.
9
BILL OF MATERIALS DESIGNER: KAITLYN STOCKPORT
MUMS WARDROBE
SIGNED:
DESCRIPTION:
DATE: 10.03.18
STUDENT NO: DEADLINE:
14017486 06.04.18
RUCHED JERSEY ZEBRA LONG SLEEVE TOP
SUPPLIER
FABRIC TRIM COMPONENT
COLOUR
12
SIZE: COLLECTION: PROJECT:
SEASON:
AW18
TRUE COLOURS
TARGET PRICE: £26
FINAL COLLECTION
STYLE NO: TJ18001
DESCRIPTION
PRICE
JERSEY BAMBOO WHITE AND BLACK BAMBOO JERSEY STRETCH FABRIC SMOOTH/SOFT TEXTURE 95% BAMBOO VISCOSE, 5% ELASTHANE WEIGHT: 180GSM WIDTH: 160CM
1M WHITE = £9.95 1M BLACK = £9.95
BLACK & WHITE
BLACK
BLACK RIBBED SWEATSHIRT JERSEY OFFCUTS DONATED OFFCUT WASTE MATERIAL FROM FAST FASHION SUPPLIER 100% POLYESTER UNPICKED FROM SWEATSHIRT MAIN FABRIC AND RE-USED FOR TRIMS OF RUCHED TOP COLLAR AND CUFFS WHITE SHIRRING ELASTIC FOR THE SPOOL CASE WEIGHT: APPROXIMATELY 400 GRAMS THREAD DIAMETER: APPROX 0.75 MM
(DONATED) £0
£0.04 PER METRE USED: APPROX* 17.89M (18M) = £1.44
WHITE 100% POLYESTER WHITE 120 COLOUR 800 THREAD
WHITE
(FOR FUTURE FURTHER IMPROVEMENT IN UTILISING SUSTAINABLE RESOURCES MUMS WARDROBE WOULD SOURCE RECYCLED RESPUN THREADS ONCE SUCH PRODUCT HAS COME AVAILABLE OR ORGANIC COTTON THREADS)
WHITE
REMNANT USED OFFCUT FABRIC COTTON FROM THE SUBLIMATION PRINTER USED FOR PRINTING THE LABELS AND THEN FINISHED THE EDGES WITH THE ULTRASONIC WELDER IN THE INNOVATION ZONE FOR A CLEAN EDGE IN FUTURE MUMS WARDROBE WOULD PRINT THEIR LABELS ONTO RECYCLED POLYESTER FABRIC MADE FROM OCEAN WASTE PLASTIC
RRP:
£26
TOTAL:
£0.20
(DONATED)
£0
£21.54
£24 FOR THE SKIRT
10
MEASUREMENTS DESIGNER: KAITLYN STOCKPORT
MUMS WARDROBE
SIGNED:
DESCRIPTION:
DATE: 10.03.18
STUDENT NO:
14017486
DEADLINE:
06.04.18
RUCHED JERSEY ZEBRA LONG SLEEVE TOP
12
SIZE: COLLECTION: PROJECT:
SEASON:
AW18
TRUE COLOURS
TARGET PRICE: £26
FINAL COLLECTION
STYLE NO: TJ18001
PATTERN AND RIBBED PIECE WAS CUT TO 70CM (INC 1CM SA AT EACH SIDE TO BAG OUT TOGETHER) THEREFORE THE COLLAR MUST HAVE STRETCHED WHEN CONSTRUCTING COLLAR CIRC 73cm
COLLAR DEPTH 5CM
SHOULDER TO NP 14CM
ARMHOLE CIRC 48CM
X FRONT 43CM
X BACK 41CM
UNDERARM BODY CIRC 83CM
SLEEVE LENGTH 58CM
SIDE SEAM CF LENGTH 21CM 37CM
CB LENGTH 40CM
HEM CIRC 75CM
HTM: (OTR = ON THE ROUND)
CUFF CIRC 18CM
X FRONT
13CM DOWN FROM NECK POINT ACROSS
X BACK
13CM DOWN FROM NECK POINT ACROSS
UNDERARM BODY CIRC
FROM UNDERARM POINTS OTR
COLLAR CIRC
FROM WHERE RIB COLLAR JOINS TO FABRIC OTR
CUFF CIRC
END OF CUFF CIRCUMFERENCE OTR
HEM CIRC
MEASURE FLAT DO STRETCH THE FRILL
COLLAR/CUFF DEPTH
TOP TO BOTTOM OF TRIM
ARMHOLE CIRC
FROM ARMHOLE UNDERPOINT OTR
CF LENGTH
TOP (WHERE COLLAR ENDS) TO HEM OF CF
CB LENGTH
TOP TO END (NOT INC COLLAR)
SLEEVE LENGTH
SLEEVE CENTRE POINT TO HEM (NOT INC CUFF)
SHOULDER TO NP
ARMHOLE CP TO SNP
CUFF DEPTH 5CM
TOL: +/- = 1CM 11
SIZE CHART/ GRADE RULE DESIGNER: KAITLYN STOCKPORT
MUMS WARDROBE
SIGNED:
DESCRIPTION:
DATE: 10.03.18
STUDENT NO: DEADLINE:
14017486 06.04.18
RUCHED JERSEY ZEBRA LONG SLEEVE TOP
12
SIZE: COLLECTION: PROJECT:
SEASON:
AW18
TRUE COLOURS
TARGET PRICE: £26
FINAL COLLECTION
STYLE NO: TJ18001
GRADE RULE MEASURING POINTS X FRONT
SIZE 6 37CM
35CM UNDERARM BODY CIRC 77CM COLLAR CIRC 73CM CUFF CIRC 18CM HEM CIRC 75CM COLLAR/CUFF/HEM DEPTH 5CM ARMHOLE CIRC 48CM CF LENGTH 37CM CB LENGTH 40CM SLEEVE LENGTH 58CM SHOULDER TO SNP 14CM SIDE SEAM 21CM X BACK
SIZE 8
39CM -6CM 37CM -6CM 79CM N/A 73CM N/A 18CM N/A 75CM N/A 5CM N/A 48CM N/A 37CM N/A 40CM N/A 58CM N/A 14CM N/A 21CM -6CM
SIZE 10
41CM -4CM 39CM -4CM 81CM N/A 73CM N/A 18CM N/A 75CM N/A 5CM N/A 48CM N/A 37CM N/A 40CM N/A 58CM N/A 14CM N/A 21CM -4CM
THE VERTICAL LENGTHS AND TRIM DEPTHS DO NOT CHANGE BETWEEN SIZING* PLEASE NOTE THAT THE MEASUREMENTS WERE FROM THE FINAL TOP. THE COLLAR CIRC IS TOO BIG AND IF THEY WERE TO BE RE-MADE THE CIRC MEASUREMENT WOULD BE CORRECTED TO: COLLAR: 62CM* AND THE DEPTH REDUSED TO 4CM TO AVOID IT RIPPLING (NOT SITTING FLAT AROUND THE NECK) NO CHANGE TO GRADE SIZES*
-2CM -2CM -2CM N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
ORIGINAL
SIZE 12 43CM 41CM 83CM 73CM 18CM 75CM 5CM 48CM 37CM 40CM 58CM 14CM 21CM
SIZE 14 45CM 43CM 85CM 73CM 18CM 75CM 5CM 48CM 37CM 40CM 58CM 14CM 21CM
+2CM +2CM +2CM N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
FROM ALVAFORM ALVANON SIZE 12 MANNEQUIN (2008) SEE PREVIOUS PAGE OF MEASUREMENT POINTS
12
LABELLING DESIGNER: KAITLYN STOCKPORT
MUMS WARDROBE
SIGNED:
DESCRIPTION:
DATE: 10.03.18
STUDENT NO: DEADLINE:
RUCHED JERSEY ZEBRA LONG SLEEVE TOP
14017486 06.04.18
12
SIZE: COLLECTION: PROJECT:
AW18
SEASON:
TRUE COLOURS
TARGET PRICE: £26
FINAL COLLECTION
STYLE NO: TJ18001
SIZE
UK 12 LOW MACHINE WASH
SIZE
UK 12 DESIGNED BY KAITLYN STOCKPORT
THE LABELS WERE ORIGINALLY PRINTED ON THE WHITE SPACES FROM THE LINING BOMBER JACKET PRINT HOWEVER DUE TO THE TEXTURE OF THE FABRIC & SCALE OF THE TEXT THE SMALLER TEXT WAS UNREADABLE. THE NEW LABELS WERE PRINTED ONTO REMNANT COTTON FROM MFI’S SUBLIMATION PRINTER, AGAIN THE TEXT WAS SLIGHTLY TOO SMALL THIS BLURRED A LITTLE - BUT DUE TO TIME RESTRICTIONS IT COULD NOT BE RE-PRINTED/RE-SCALED A LITTLE LARGER - IN FUTURE MUMS WARDROBE WOULD GET THE LABELS PRINTED ONTO RECYCLED FABRIC MADE FROM PLASTIC OCEAN WASTE.
MEDIUM TUMBLE DRY
DONATE TO CHARITY WHEN NO LONGER NEEDED
MADE IN THE UK
BAMBOO FABRIC: 95% BAMBOO VISCOSE 5% ELASTHANE
100% WOVEN ORGANIC IN KERALA CERTIFIED INDIA BAMBOO VISCOSE
RIBBED TRIMS:
ON THE LABEL IT CLEARLY INDICATES THE BRAND LOGO AND SIZE FOLLOWED BY THE DESIGNER OF THE COLLECTION. IN FUTURE MUMS WARDROBE WOULD ALSO LIKE TO INSERT A SPACE FOR MADE BY: ............... AND A SPACE FOR THE PERSON WHO MADE THE GARMENT TO WRITE THEIR NAME. MUMS WARDROBE IS INSPIRED BY THE FASHION REVOLUTION AND VALUES THE ‘WHO MADE MY CLOTHES’ STATEMENT IN ETHICAL FASHION AND SUSTAINABLE FASHION COMBINED. THIS RUCHED TOP WAS MADE BY SAMPLE MACHINIST BARBARA AT THE MFI.
DONATED OFFCUTS SUPPLIER WASTE
THE OTHER LABEL DISPLAYS THE LOGO, SIZE AND CARE/WASH INFORMATION. IT SAYS 30 DEGREE LOW WASH (IF NECESSARY). MEDIUM TUMBLE DRY (IF NECESSARY BUT MIGHT BE BETTER TO HANG DRY NATURALLY). IRON IF NEEDED AND DONATE TO CHARITY WHEN NO LONGER WANTED/NEEDED. MADE IN THE UK. THE OTHER SIDE SHOWS THE FABRIC COMPOSITIONS: 100% ORGANIC CERTIFIED BAMBOO VISCOSE WOVEN IN KERALA INDIA & RIBBED TRIMS: DONATED OFFCUTS FROM FAST FASHION SUPPLIER WASTE.
13
SAMPLING PROCESS DESIGNER: KAITLYN STOCKPORT
MUMS WARDROBE
SIGNED:
DESCRIPTION:
DATE: 10.03.18
STUDENT NO: DEADLINE:
RUCHED JERSEY ZEBRA LONG SLEEVE TOP
14017486 06.04.18
12
SIZE: COLLECTION: PROJECT:
SEASON:
AW18
TRUE COLOURS
TARGET PRICE: £26
FINAL COLLECTION
STYLE NO: TJ18001
THE FIRST INITIAL SAMPLE PATTERN SAMPLE WAS DRAWN ONTO A LARGE PIECE OF PATTERN PAPER TO RESEMBLE ZEBRA STRIPES THEY WERE THEN CUT OUT AND TOILED USING 2 DIFFERENT TYPES OF JERSEY STRETCH FABRICS (OFFCUTS/SAMPLE LENGTHS/REMNANTS FROM RESOURCE CENTRE AT THE MANCHESTER FASHION INSTITUTE). THE PIECES WERE JOINED TOGETHER USING SHIRRING ELASTIC/SPOOLING ELASTIC (THIN ELASTIC THAT IS USED LIKE THREAD AROUND THE SPOOL). THE ELASTICATED PIECES THAT WERE JOINED TOGETHER THEN CUT OUT INTO A PATTERN PIECE SHAPE AND JOINED WITH A BASIC SLEEVE AND BACK PIECE STRETCH BLOCKS. THE OUTCOME IN THE DESIGNERS OPINION WAS NOT AESTHETICALLY PLEASING AND THEREFORE NEEDED REFINING SMALLER AND SHAPED AROUND THE BODY AND APPLYING THE SAME SHIRRING/RUCHING TECHNIQUE TO BOTH THE SLEEVES AND THE BACK PIECES AS ADVISED BY TUTORS AT THE INITIAL FITTING SESSION.
14
SAMPLING PROCESS DESIGNER: KAITLYN STOCKPORT
MUMS WARDROBE
SIGNED:
DESCRIPTION:
DATE: 10.03.18
STUDENT NO: DEADLINE:
RUCHED JERSEY ZEBRA LONG SLEEVE TOP
14017486 06.04.18
12
SIZE: COLLECTION: PROJECT:
SEASON:
AW18
TRUE COLOURS
TARGET PRICE: £26
FINAL COLLECTION
STYLE NO: TJ18001
IN ORDER TO CREATE THE CORRECT SIZE THE ZEBRA PIECES WERE CUT AND DRAWN TO SCALE ON A BODICE BLOCK AND THEN RUCHED WITH THE SHIRRING ELASTIC. HOWEVER ONCE PINNED TO THE MANNEQUIN THE RUCHED PIECES STRETCHED FLAT, ONCE THE DESIGNER UNDERSTOOD HOW MUCH NEEDED TO BE RUCHED FROM A BASIC BLOCK PATTERN TO GET IT TO NOT STRETCH OUT THE RUCHING WHEN WORN ON THE MANNEQUIN/BODY THE PATTERN TOILE WILL BE CORRECT. IT WAS CONCLUDED THAT EXTENDING THE PATTERNS BY 10CM SHOULD ENABLE THE BODICE TO FIT THE MANNEQUIN WITHOUT OUT STRETCHING THE RUCHING. TO ENSURE THIS, A FURTHER THIRD TOILE WAS CREATED WITH THE SAME EXTENSION OF 10CM APPLIED TO BOTH THE SLEEVE PATTERNS AND THE BACK PATTERN PIECE. THE PIECES WERE CUT ON THE FOLD. DURING THE SECOND FITTINGS IT WAS DECIDED THAT A RIBBED NECK COLLAR WILL BE ADDED ALONG WITH A CUFF AND SO THE BOTTOM PIECE OF THE SLEEVE (SEE RED OUTLINE BELOW) WAS ALTERED SO THAT IT WOULD BE INSERTED INTO THE CUFF. TO FINISH THE HEM NARROW BYTE OVERLOCKING WILL BE DONE TO AVOID FRAYING/ROLLING.
CUT ON FOLD FRONT PIECE*
FRONT INCREASE BY 10CM*
SLEEVE PIECE*
THRID FINAL TOILE*
15
SAMPLING PROCESS DESIGNER: KAITLYN STOCKPORT
MUMS WARDROBE
SIGNED:
DESCRIPTION:
DATE: 10.03.18
STUDENT NO: DEADLINE:
14017486 06.04.18
RUCHED JERSEY ZEBRA LONG SLEEVE TOP (& SKIRT)
12
SIZE: COLLECTION: PROJECT:
TRUE COLOURS
FINAL COLLECTION
SEASON:
AW18
TARGET PRICE: £26 STYLE NO:
TJ18001 SJ18001
AFTER DEVELOPMENT ON THE STAND WITH THE FIRST TOILE TOP WORN AS A SKIRT & AFTER SOURCING SOME BLACK & WHITE DONATED OFFCUT SWEATSHIRT MATERIAL FROM A FAST FASHION SUPPLIER A SKIRT WITH A SIMILAR AESTHETIC TO THE TOP WAS DEVELOPED. UTILISING THE SWEATSHIRT PIECES THERE WAS A LIMIT TO THE WIDTH OF THE PIECES CUT ON THE FOLD (AS THE SWEAT SHIRT MATERIAL WAS SEAMLESS (ON THE ROUND) SO FABRIC UTILISATION WAS CONSIDERED (AS SEEN IN SOME IMAGES ABOVE OUTLINED IN RED). THE SKIRT PIECES WAS EXTENDED BY 10CM FROM A SKIRT BLOCK FOR THE ELASTIC TO CREATE THE RUCHING EFFECT. THE PIECES WERE JOINED TOGETHER USING NORMAL 120 THREAD (NOT SHIRRING ELASTIC SPOOL AS IT WOULD NOT HAVE WORKED WITH THE HEAVIER SWEATSHIRT FABRIC, ALTERNATIVELY ELASTIC (0.5CM WIDTH) WAS USED TO RUCH THE PIECES DOWN AND PRESSED TO INCREASE SHRINKAGE FOR A TIGHTER RUCHED EFFECT TO MATCH THE TOP AND ALSO FINISHED WITH NARROW BYTE OVERLOCKING. THE SKIRT HOWEVER, IS THE DESIGNERS LEAST FAVOURITE PIECE IN THE COLLECTION. AS TO IMPROVE IT WOULD HAVE BEEN PREFERRED IF THE PIECE LOOKED LESS LIKE NEAT STRIPES & MORE ZEBRA ESQUE.
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SKIRT LAYPLAN/CUTTING SPEC DESIGNER: KAITLYN STOCKPORT
MUMS WARDROBE
SIGNED:
DESCRIPTION:
DATE: 10.03.18
STUDENT NO: DEADLINE:
14017486 06.04.18
RUCHED JERSEY ZEBRA LONG SLEEVE TOP (& SKIRT)
12
SIZE: COLLECTION: PROJECT:
SEASON:
AW18
TRUE COLOURS
TARGET PRICE: £26
FINAL COLLECTION
TJ18001 STYLE NO: SJ18001
WAISTBAND
FW1
FW1
BW1
FB1
BB1
FW2
BW2
FB2
BB2
FW3
BW3
FB3
BB3
FW4
BW4
FB4
BB4
FW5
BW5
FB5
BB5
FW6
BW6
FB6
BB6
BW1
THE PATTERN PIECES FROM THE SKIRT WERE PINNED ONTO THE OFFCUT SWEATSHIRT FLEECE FABRIC IN WHITE & BLACK, THE RIBBED HEM FIRST NEEDED TO BE UNPICKED SO THE MAIN FABRIC LIED FLAT, THE PIECES WERE THEN CUT ON THE FOLD. 5 WHITE SWEATSHIRT OFF-CUTS WERE USED AND 6 BLACK, THE BLACK RIBBED LEFTOVER UNPICKED PIECES WERE USED FOR 1 - THE WAISTBAND FOR THE SKIRT, 2 - THE COLLAR FOR THE RUCH TOP AND ONE CUFF 3- THE OTHER CUFF FOR THE RUCH TOP AND X2 CUFFS FOR THE BOMBER JACKET, 4 - THE COLLAR FOR THE BOMBER JACKET AND CUFFS FOR THE OFF-CUT BARDOT DRESS 5 FOR THE HEM OF THE JACKET & 6 - FOR THE COLLAR OF THE OFF-CUT BARDOT DRESS (NO TECH PACK FOR THE EXTRA DRESS). WHITE REMNANTS X2 PIECES OF THE SLEEVE FOR THE OFF-CUT BARDOT DRESS, ANY BLACK OR WHITE REMNANTS OF THE SWEATSHIRT FLEECE FABRIC WERE RECYCLED, OR LARGER PIECES GIVEN TO RESOURCES FOR FASHION STUDENTS TO SAMPLE WITH.
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TOILE FITTING EVALUATION DESIGNER: KAITLYN STOCKPORT
MUMS WARDROBE
SIGNED:
DESCRIPTION:
DATE: 10.03.18
STUDENT NO: DEADLINE:
RUCHED JERSEY ZEBRA LONG SLEEVE TOP
14017486 06.04.18
12
SIZE: COLLECTION: PROJECT:
SEASON:
AW18
TRUE COLOURS
TARGET PRICE: £26
FINAL COLLECTION
STYLE NO: TJ18001
FIT AMMENDMENTS FROM THE RESULTS OF FITTING: EXTEND BACK HEM PIECE SO THAT IT DOES NOT STICK UP. ADD CUFF TO SLEEVES (X2 SLEEVES FOR FINAL GARMENT*) MAKE COLLAR BIGGER WIDTH*. NARROW BYTE OVERLOCK IN WHITE THREAD TO NEATEN REMOVE LAST PIECE OF SLEEVE AND REPLACE WITH CUFF*. OVERALL DESIGNER SEES THIS PIECE AS A CREATIVE APPROACH TO PATTERN AND THUS CREATING A UNIQUE DESIGN WHICH IS STILL COMMERCIAL BUT INNOVATIVE. TO FURTHER IMPROVE MUMS WARDROBE WOULD HAVE MADE THIS INTO A DETACHABLE PIECE SO IT COULD BE A DRESS/TOP/SLEEVELESS ETC. AND WOULD ALSO EXPERIMENT WITH PRINT DESIGNS FOR A COLOUR VERSION IF A SUITABLE ECO STRETCH FABRIC COULD BE SOURCED.
18
CRITICAL PATH DESIGNER: KAITLYN STOCKPORT
MUMS WARDROBE
SIGNED:
DESCRIPTION:
08/01/18 15/01/18
DATE: 10.03.18
STUDENT NO: DEADLINE:
RUCHED JERSEY ZEBRA LONG SLEEVE TOP
14017486 06.04.18
12
SIZE: COLLECTION: PROJECT:
SEASON:
AW18
TRUE COLOURS
TARGET PRICE: £26
FINAL COLLECTION
STYLE NO: TJ18001
(TERM BEGINS) BEGIN DEVELOPING DESIGN IDEAS FOR NEGOTIATED PROJECT (FINAL COLLECTION)... RESEARCH INTO CONCEPT SUSTAINABLE DESIGNING. SAMPLE SOME DESIGN IDEAS CONTINUE DESIGNING AND FABRIC SOURCING.
22/01/18
DEVELOP PATTERNS FROM MAIN DESIGN IDEAS GATHERED AND BEGIN TO TOILE IDEAS (MADE DETACHABLE DUNGAREES X3/4 TRIES TO GET A GOOD FIT WHICH WAS STILL NOT HAPPY WITH SO DROPPED IDEA AND RUCHED OVERSIZED TOP TOILED X3 TIMES FOR DESIRED CORRECT FIT)
29/01/18
FIRST FITTING - DETACHABLE DUNGAREES WITH RUCHED TOP (DECIDED TO DROP THE DUNGAREES DUE TO SPENDING TOO LONG AND UNABLE TO PERFECT TOILE FIT).
05/02/18
DEVELOP SECOND OUTFIT/GARMENT WORK ON A PATTERN FOR REVERSIBLE BOMBER JACKET AND THEN TOILE UP WITH SAMPLES OF FABRIC (LASERETCHNG/EMBROIDERY AND PRINT IDEAS AND FABRIC SOURCING).
12/02/18
SECOND OUTFIT FITTING - WORK ON AMMENDING PATTERN/FURTHER SAMPLING OF POCKETS/ RUCHING SLEEVE ETC. DESIGN PATTERN FOR JACKET AND DEVELOP RUCHED TOP IDEA FOR IMPROVED FIT*
19/02/18
DEVELOP IDEAS FURTHER PATTERN WORK FOR THIRD OUTFIT (CROCHET TWO PIECE) SAMPLE AND MAKE GRANNY SQUARES (MADE X35 GRANNY SQUARES MYSELF) THEN OUTSOURCED TO A FRIEND OF THE FAMILY TO MAKE THE REST
26/02/18
IMPROVE FIT OF RUCHED TOP FOR FINAL FITTING WORK ON SKIRT PATTERN AND 6TH GARMENT (SWEAT DRESS).
05/03/18
FINAL FITTING (THIRD) CONFIRM FABRIC BASES & PRINT TEST SAMPLE GERBER UP PATTERN PIECES & SEND OFF TO BE PRINTED/ ORDER THE BAMBOO FABRIC.
12/03/18
CREATE TECH PACKS AND BEGIN FINAL LASER CUTTING AND EMBROIDERY AND CUT OUT PRINTED PIECE & PIN TO PATTERNS
19/03/18 26/03/18 02/04/18 09/04/18
TERM ENDS - HAND IN X2 GARMENTS TO BE MADE - BOMBER JACKET & RUCHED TOP WITH TECH PACKS FOR SAMPLE MACHINIST.
DEVELOP PATTERN FURTHER FOR THE RUCHED SKIRT AND WORK ON PATTERN FOR SWEAT DRESS, START JOINING CROCHET PIECES TOGETHER... RECIEVE ALL OF THE GRANNY SQUARE CROCHETS BEGIN JOINING TOGETHER RESERACH FOR SECOND DESIGN LIVE PROJECT AND CONTINUE WITH DESIGN WORK FROM NEGOTIATED (THINK OF 12 OUTFIT DESIGNS AND FINAL BOARDS). RECIEVED FINAL REVERSIBLE BOMBER JACKET COMPLETED. MAKE RUCHED SKIRT AND SWEAT DRESS. ADD TASSELS TO CROCHET. WAIT FOR RUCHED TOP TO BE MADE BY SAMPLE MACHINIST* 19
FINAL GARMENT DESIGNER: KAITLYN STOCKPORT
MUMS WARDROBE
SIGNED:
DESCRIPTION:
DATE: 10.03.18
STUDENT NO: DEADLINE:
RUCHED JERSEY ZEBRA LONG SLEEVE TOP
14017486 06.04.18
12
SIZE: COLLECTION: PROJECT:
SEASON:
AW18
TRUE COLOURS
TARGET PRICE: £26
FINAL COLLECTION
STYLE NO: TJ18001
THE FINAL GARMENT HAS A FEW FIT DISCREPANCIES COMPARED TO THE FINAL TOILE WHICH WERE MOST LIKELY DUE TO THE FINAL BAMBOO/VISCOSE JERSEY FABRICS BEING SLIGHTLY STRETCHIER THAN THE COTTON JERSEY USED TO TOILE WITH, THEREFORE THE NECKLINE INCREASED IN SIZE WHICH THUS DROPPED THE ARMHOLE LOWER & THE COLLAR WOULD NOT SIT FLAT BECAUSE DURING FITTINGS IT WAS ADVISED TO INCREASE THE DEPTH HOWEVER THIS MADE THE COLLAR NOT LYE FLAT SO THE GARMENT WAS RE-STYLED AS A BARDOT/OFF-SHOULDER NECKLINE (WHICH TURNED OUT TO BE A BLESSING IN DISGUISE AS IT LOOKED AESTHETICALLY PLEASING WITH THE REST OF THE COLLECTION FOR IT TO BE WORN LIKE THAT). DUE TO THE ARMHOLE DROPPING BECAUSE OF THE NECKLINE STRETCHING THIS THEN ALSO EFFECTED THE SLEEVES LENGTH AS IT BECAME MORE ELONGATED THAN EXPECTED LIKEWISE WITH THE COLLAR HOWEVER THIS AGAIN IMPROVED THE AESTHETIC AS ELONGATED SLEEVES HAVE BECOME A SOMEWHAT STYLE FEATURE IN MODERN FASHION & FROM A STYLING PERSPECTIVE LOOKED ‘COOL’ IN THE PHOTOSHOOT WHEN WORN EITHER DROPPED LONG OR RUCHED UP. IN FUTURE FIT AMMENDMENTS WOULD BE IMPROVED UPON AS IN INDUSTRY THIS WOULD BE CLASSED AS 1ST SAMPLE DUE TO IT BEING THE FIRST GARMENT MADE IN THE ‘REAL FABRIC’ AS INDUSTRY DO NOT TOILE THEY GO STRAIGHT INTO MAKING THE PROPOSED FINAL GARMENT AND THEN THE FIT AMMENDMENTS ARE MADE UNTIL A GOLD SEAL APPROVAL HAS BEEN CONFIRMED TO MAKE THE PRODUCTION GARMENTS.
20