MAGA ZINE 2017
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HOLA!
B I E N V E N I D O – O R W E L C O M E – TO T H E F I R S T EDITION OF OUR VISIT MEXICO MAGA ZINE, SHOWCASING A SELECTION OF THIS INSPIRING C O U N T R Y ' S F I N E S T D E S T I N AT I O N S, ALL IN ONE PL ACE.
From incredible culture to cultivating tequila, there are some spots on the Mexico map that we’re really excited to show you. When people think of the country, they think of vibrant food, breathtaking landscapes and friendly locals – and they’re exactly right. In a country of such diversity, we want to show you the very best bits. So we’re bringing out Visit Mexico magazine twice a year to illustrate our way of life, natural landscapes and spellbinding ancient heritage. In this issue, we’ll walk you through bustling food markets in the south-west state of Oaxaca, take a stroll around the ancient ruins of Teotihuacán, and find out exactly why the Sea of Cortez is referred to as "the
world’s aquarium". We’ve even rustled up our favourite mole recipe – an ancient Mexican sauce that will take Sunday night’s dinner to a whole new level. And to round everything off, we have a special feature on the globally renowned indigenous Huichol Art. I’ve been working for the Mexico Tourism Board for more than five years, and our country’s biodiversity still surprises and delights me. Mexico is home to 10 per cent of the world’s species and is the fourth most diverse country in the world – something that makes it immediately worth visiting for everyone. Finding something that’s perfect for you is easy because there’s so much to see, do, smell and taste. Whether it’s a family adventure, romantic
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getaway, or much needed holiday with friends, there’s something for everyone. Being a Mexican, I can confidently say this wonderful country is truly like no other. So read on to see some of the gems that Mexico has to offer. Keep an eye out for the next issue, and if you’re planning a trip to this magical place, head to www.visitmexico.com.
Vicente Salas Director of Mexico Tourism Board for UK, Ireland, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Finland, Portugal, South Africa, Russia
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CONTENTS W E L C O M E TO M E X I C O, T H E V I B R A N T L A N D O F S U N S H I N E , C O LO U R A N D C U LT U R E . I N T H I S I S S U E W E LO O K I N TO S O M E O F T H E A C T I V I T I E S YO U C A N E N J OY, E V E N T S YO U C A N AT T E N D, C I T I E S YO U C A N V I S I T A N D C U LT U R E YO U C A N E X P E R I E N C E . E N J OY R E A D I N G.
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GASTRONOMY
A R T & C U LT U R E
LO S C A B O S
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ADVENTURE & SPORT
SUN & SEA
MAGICAL TO W N S
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EVENTS
T R AV E L PA R T N E R S
AT A G L A N C E
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OAXACA T H E S TAT E O F O A X A C A , I N T H E S O U T H - W E S T O F M E X I C O, H A S E V E R Y I N G R E D I E N T TO S AT I S F Y E V E N T H E M O S T D E M A N D I N G V I S I TO R .
It has a tropical climate, miles of all but untouched coastline, perfect sandy beaches with some of the country’s best surfing swells and spectacular scenery across forest-clad mountains. There is also a thriving, cultural capital – Oaxaca City – which has long attracted artists and artisans to its beautiful melange of narrow streets, courtyards, plazas and Baroque architecture. But for all that, Oaxaca’s recent
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reputation has blossomed overwhelmingly because of other special ingredients – those put to work in the region’s kitchens. It has become the epicentre of a spectacular gastronomic boom, with foodies from across the world now flocking to the region to sample food that draws on the finest traditions of Mexican cooking, with unique and sumptuous twists. Oaxaca has restaurants and street
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food markets that stand comparison with anywhere in the world, and rarely can visitors feel so much a part of the scene and so close to the source. Oaxaca is known as the “land of the seven moles” after its famous tangy sauces. But that is a vast simplification of how diverse the food is here. Particularly in Oaxaca City, it feels as though the whole town is either cooking or eating: it is a unified celebration of flavour.
Paisaje en Hierve el agua, Hierve el Agua, Oaxaca
The sheer range of food, and places to eat it, is what really distinguishes Oaxaca from all other destinations. There are high-end fine-dining restaurants across the city and state, serving thrilling interpretations of traditional dishes alongside innovative new recipes. But the hole-in-thewall eateries and market stalls also serve outstanding rustic fare. At the more formal end, Pitiona restaurant, yards from the Church of Santo Domingo de Guzmán and its museum, focuses its cooking on apparently simple dishes – soups, salads, sandwiches, with locally sourced ingredients – but pushing them all in surprising directions. Its head chef, José Manuel Baños, picked up a trick or two as a former employee at the legendary elBulli restaurant in Catalonia. Meanwhile Criollo, which is housed in what seems to be an unremarkable, unmarked colonial mansion away from the city centre, is where esteemed chef Enrique Olvera, a darling of the New York culinary scene,
plies his trade in his native Mexico. It has no sign outside, nor even a website to entice people in. But pilgrims to Olvera’s dining room include food critics, who have been persuaded away from Manhattan and Mayfair for a trip to the south of Mexico. Although almost all restaurants in Oaxaca are affordable in comparison with what you would pay for a similar standard of cooking in Europe or the United States, mouth-watering food can also be found on the streets for staggeringly low prices. Exploring the markets of Oaxaca is a snacker’s delight – and rewards experimentation as you dive in to discover the exhilaratingly vast breadth of local cuisine. The Mercado 20 de Noviembre has been described as the culinary heart of Oaxaca. It occupies an entire city block and attracts locals, tourists, office workers and students alike to its endless array of stalls. Most are family run enterprises, serving meats, fish and vegetables, all seasoned and cooked to your specific tastes. There
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are more than 500 edible herbs grown across Oaxaca state and seemingly all of them are blended in the air above the market. It is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and one need never run out of new dishes to try. However, it is not the only option for street food in Oaxaca. El Pochote opened for the first time in 2003 and has since become another landmark in downtown Oaxaca. This market is focused specifically on organic produce, welcoming vendors who make a special commitment to serving locally sourced, seasonal fare. Often the food is sold by the families who grow or cultivate it, including rich coffee harvested from the surrounding mountains. As ever, the sights, smells and sounds that mingle throughout are unmistakeable. Further afield, restaurants such as Pascale or Almoraduz in the coastal town of Puerto Escondido share the same commitment to bright and original cooking, but have the added advantage of being only a short walk
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to the ocean. The fish here is some of the freshest and tastiest in Mexico. Much of Oxacan street food centres on the corn tortilla, including tlayuda, which are sometimes known as the “Oxacan pizza” and combine many of the flavours familiar to fans of Mexican cooking. A flat tortilla is smeared with refried beans, then topped with meats, tomato and avocado. Enfrijoladas, on the other hand, also comprise tortilla, beans and avocado, but this time the beans are stewed with avocado leaves, and the tortilla is rolled before being served with onion and topped with cheese. Memelas (or memelitas) are a breakfast favourite: a slightly thicker cornflour base is again piled with beans,
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cheese, egg and meats. Tetelas are folded, triangular parcels stuffed with similarly tasty ingredients. There can be little doubt when someone is cooking barbacoa: the smells of a whole sheep being slowcooked over an open fire fill the surrounding air and leave a deeply flavoured, rich meat, which is then shredded and served with coriander and onions. Adventurous gastronomes should also not leave Oaxaca without having tasted chapulines. They might sound a little like potato chips when you eat them – they are crisp and covered in salt – but chapulines are actually fried grasshoppers. With a squeeze of lime and garlic, they are yet another outstanding snack from the region.
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Oaxaca also has its own take on the traditional tamale. Tamales Oaxaqueños replace the corn husks of the more common variety with banana leaves, all wrapped around succulent meat and any number of distinctive mole sauces. Oh, and to drink? Of course, there’s tequila, but also why not try tejate, a frothy local speciality comprising maize flour and cocoa beans, among other ingredients, drunk in the region for centuries.
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Mole, Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco
MAGNIFICENT MOLE M A R Y S O L A LVA R A D O, O W N E R O F T H E A C C L A I M E D M E S T I ZO R E S TA U R A N T & T E Q U I L A B A R I N LO N D O N , G I V E S H E R E X P E R T TA K E O N T H E U LT I M AT E M E X I C A N F O O D.
When many people think of the food that best sums up Mexico, the first dish that comes to mind is mole. No, not the little half-blind rodent that causes havoc with people’s lawns, but the rich and sublime sauces called pronounced "moh-lay". Each town, city and region in Mexico has their own specific mole recipe, many having been proudly handed down from generation to generation. These recipes are the source of great pride and many will say that perhaps
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the first real fight between newlyweds is: "My mother’s mole is better than your mother’s mole!" Mole is a dish made for family and national celebrations and is a rich combination of herbs, spices, chilies, both fresh and dried, nuts and seeds. A combination that when made with love, creates a unique sauce that tantalises the taste buds like no other. Technically, all sauces can be classed as mole sauces, but most people consider the cold ones as sal-
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sas and only the hot ones as mole. The most ubiquitous mole is probably Mole Poblano (the one with chocolate) – a chicken dish covered in this delicious sauce. Try out the recipe on the opposite page and discover the true nature of Mexico is in its cuisine.
Mestizo Restaurant & Tequila Bar is located in London and Madrid. Go to www. mestizomx.com to found out more.
MOLE POBL ANO For the chicken: 1 large chicken cut up in pieces 8 cups of water 1 small onion cut up in pieces 3 garlic cloves Salt to taste For the Sauce: 6 mulato peppers 4 ancho peppers 6 pasilla peppers 1 tablespoon of reserved pepper seeds 6 whole cloves 1/2 teaspoon black peppercorn 1/4 teaspoon coriander seeds 1/4 teaspoon anis seeds 3/4 cup sesame seeds 3/4 inch of Mexican cinnamon stick 1/2 cup of raisins 1/2 cup unskinned almonds 1 corn tortilla 3 small slices of French bread 1/3 cup of raw pumpkin seeds 3 small roasted tomatoes 3 garlic gloves roasted 1 large ripe dark-skinned plantain, peeled, thickly sliced 1 tablet of Mexican drinking Chocolate (Ibarra Chocolate or Abuelita Brand). About 3.1 ounces. The reserved broth from the cooked chicken
METHOD: 1. Combine all ingredients in large pot. Bring to boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer for about 35 minutes. Transfer chicken to bowl; cover and chill. Strain and reserve broth in pot. 2. Cut the peppers using your kitchen scissors if possible to flatten them for an even toasting. 3. In a skillet toast the dry peppers a few at a time, on both sides, until the inside flesh turns tobacco brown. Place them in the bowl with the broth to soak. Keep toasting the rest of the peppers and placing them in the water. Soak them for about 30 minutes. Drain them and set aside in a bowl. 4. Meanwhile, toast separately the reserved peppers seeds, the coriander seeds, the anise seeds and sesame seeds. Set them aside to cool. 5. Grind as finely as possible the cloves, peppercorns, cinnamon, and all the toasted ingredients except the sesame seeds. 6. Reserve 2 tablespoons of the sesame seeds for serving the mole; grind the rest as finely as possible. After this step add this mixture of spices and seeds to the bowl with the peppers. Now, begin frying the following ingredients separately draining any excess fat after frying: the raisins until plump up, the almonds until well browned, the pumpkin seeds until they swell, the tortilla and bread until crisp.
7. Add plantain and sauté until golden, about 3 minutes. Fry the onions until golden brown and place in the bowl where all the fried and toasted ingredients were placed and now are ready to go into the blender. Crush the almonds, tortilla and bread roughly. 8. Put one cup of the chicken broth into the blender jar, the tomatoes and peeled garlic, and blend until smooth. Gradually add the spice mixture and blend well; then add another cup of broth and gradually blend the fried ingredients to a slightly texture paste. 9. In a large skillet over medium heat, reheat the sauce, scraping the bottom of the pan very often to avoid sticking. Season with salt. 10. Continue frying until the mixture is very thick, about 8 minutes, then add the chocolate, broken into small pieces with yet another cup of broth and continue cooking and scraping the bottom another 5 minutes. Add the remaining broth as needed to desired thickness and continue cooking for about 25 minutes. 11. Add cooked chicken to hot mole; simmer until chicken is heated through, about 10 minutes. To serve, place a piece of chicken on a warm plate. Spoon on plenty of the mole sauce; sprinkle with sesame seeds.
1/2 cup of oil or lard to fry the ingredients Salt to taste Mole, Zacatecas
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T E OT I H U ACAN THERE IS A BOLD CL AIM NESTLED IN THE NAME OF ONE OF MEXICO'S MOST VISITED A N D S I G N I F I C A N T A N C I E N T AT T R A C T I O N S – W E L C O M E TO ' T H E P L A C E W H E R E T H E G O D S W E R E C R E AT E D '.
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Images: Mexico Tourism Board: Photo/Ricardo Espinosa-reo
Anywhere else calling itself "the place where gods are created could be quickly written off as hyperbole. But one glimpse at the towering monuments that define Teotihuacan, located in the basin of Central Mexico about 50 kilometres (30 miles) northeast of the capital, can have a gobsmacked visitor believing anything. First settled in the second century BC, the area grew to become one of the most ambitious urban developments of the ancient world. In a frenzy of construction between the 1st and 7th centuries AD, Teotihuacan became one of the largest cities in the Americas, possibly home to as many as 200,000 people, with the spectacular Pyramids of the Sun and Moon, and the Temple of Quetzalcoatl as centrepieces. These extraordinary structures still exist in some form today, and are as imposing and impressive as ever. The Pyramid of the Sun sits on an area roughly 225 metres square – larger than a Manhattan city block – and rises 75 metres into the Mexican sky, with a volume of more than one million cubic metres. The Aztecs, who stumbled upon the mysteriously abandoned Teotihuacan in the 14th century and gave it its name, believed the gods created the sun itself in the giant pyramid they named after it. Visitors today can scale its summit
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and then cast their gaze over a remarkable feat of urban planning from more than 1,300 years ago.This was the central hub of all of Mesoamerica during its Golden Age. When UNESCO added the city on its World Heritage List in 1987, the organisation lauded “one of the most powerful cultural centres in Mesoamerica” whose “cultural and artistic influence extended throughout the region and beyond”. This reverence is not misplaced. Archaeologists have uncovered evidence of exceptionally sophisticated mathematical and engineering prowess in the architects of ancient Teotihuacan, as well as clear astronomical knowledge. The pyramids along the central thoroughfare, known as the Avenue of the Dead, are spaced in alignment with planets in the solar system, while the sun passes directly above the Pyramid of the Sun at noon on the spring equinox. It brings sun worshippers of the modern era to one of the most sacred sites of their Aztec brethren. Most people these days visit Teotihuacan on a day trip from Mexico City and should prepare for a full itinerary. Visitors can enter or climb many of the ancient structures located in the city, and learn the full history and significance from any
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number of experienced guides. At one end of the Avenue of the Dead lies La Ciudadela (the citadel), a sunken square that once acted as a meeting place and auditorium for thousands of worshippers and was the beating heart of the ancient city. Around it stood the houses of the city’s most prominent figures, and behind its altar looms the Quetzalcoatl temple, a completely intact pyramid to the so-called “feathered serpent”. On its façade are huge sculptures both of the eponymous deity and the rain god Tlaloc. The Avenue of the Dead is around one-and-a-half miles long and also features some unique examples of pre-Hispanic housing and art, as well as both the Sun and Moon pyramids. The latter, at the thoroughfare’s northern end, is slightly smaller than its counterpart but is built on higher ground to give the impression of being on the same level. The town museum, close to the Sun Pyramid and surrounded by a botanical garden, is also a must visit to ensure you do not leave this enchanting place without fully understanding how important it is.
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Artesania Huichol, Zacatecas
Mujer Huichol, Zacatecas
A BURST OF COLOUR T H E R E A R E F E W C O U N T R I E S I N T H E WO R L D W H O S E VERY NAME CONJURES SO VIBRANT AN IMAGE AS M E X I C O. I T S L A N D S C A P E S, I T S F O O D A N D, O F C O U R S E , I T S A R T A R E G LO B A L LY R E N O W N E D F O R T H E V I V I D N E S S O F T H E I R C O LO U R S.
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Even from within such a rich national palette, perhaps the most striking of all Mexican art originates from a relatively small group of people from the mountains of the Sierra Madre known as the Huichol. Huichol art has grown to be synonymous with Mexico – artefacts bearing the visually mesmerising patterns of the Huichol people are recognised and sought after across Latin America. They produce deep, deceptively complex arrangements of yellows, greens, blues, reds and black, turning commonplace shapes and items into superb visual feasts. Most remarkably, the patterns of Huichol art are usually rendered either through the use of beads or spun in yarn. Items are coated in a malleable mixture of beeswax and pine resin into which coloured beads or thread is then intricately and meticulously arranged. The most common artefact is the “nieli’ka”, which is a square or round tablet patterned on both sides. But the decoration also transforms bowls, masks and even reproduction animal skulls – the jaguar in particular – into exquisitely beautiful objects. The art is rich in symbolism and represents the deep spirituality of
a people who have maintained their traditional belief systems throughout centuries of upheaval in the country. Although Huichol art is now highly marketable, and in a large part finances the continued existence of a tribe that has been beset by hardship, it was not originally intended to be sold. Instead, the first artisans created their designs as votive offerings to their deities, at once celebrating and communicating with their four Gods: Corn, the Eagle, the Blue Deer and the Peyote cactus. The artwork, which has been described as “visual prayer”, is said to depict the deities’ visions, which are dictated to the artist via a “mara’akame”, the Huichol’s shaman. The patterns are often referred to as psychedelic and that stands to reason as peyote, which plays a central part in Huichol culture, has psychotropic properties and is used in rituals to contact the deity, who in turn describes the majestic visions. Some motifs occur regularly in Huichol art. Flowers are considered sacred in the culture and are used to heal the sick and bless hunters before departing in search of food. Eagles, turkeys, jaguars, scorpions, turtles and wolves are also all de-
Artesanias huicholes, Zacatecas
picted, along with the deer, which is among the most important animals to the Huichol. As can often be the case with small indigenous groups the world over, the Huichol have historically struggled to maintain their way of life as modernity encroaches. Work has grown scarce, cities have edged onto native territories, and even the use of pesticides on tobacco farms have caused health problems among the people long associated with the crop. But the art has remained consistent, and remarkably authentic. It has brought the Huichol recognition far wider than the mountainous area they occupy, mainly in the states of Jalisco and Nayarit. Some Huichol artists have had their work exhibited in the west and most galleries across Mexico display works in some ways indebted to the ancient pioneers of the Huichol. Even the Four Seasons hotel chain now proudly promotes the use of Huichol art in some of its designs for exclusive hotel suites. It is distinctive, brilliant and quintessentially Mexican.
Artesania, Nayarit
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LOS CABOS T H E S T U N N I N G, C R A G G Y B A J A C A L I F O R N I A P E N I N S U L A D A N G L E S F O R A R O U N D 1,0 0 0 M I L E S I N TO T H E PA C I F I C O C E A N I N N O R T H - W E S T M E X I C O. B U T W H E N I T E V E N T UA L LY E N D S, I T D O E S S O I N T H E MU N I C I PA L I T Y O F LO S C A B O S, O N E O F M E X I C O ' S F I N E S T U P S C A L E H O L I D AY D E S T I N AT I O N S.
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If the Baja California Peninsula itself is defined by its extraordinary diversity of landscape – vast deserts, soaring mountain ranges, remote islands and sun-drenched beaches – it is wonderfully condensed into the region at its tip. This is where the Sea of Cortez – dubbed “the world’s aquarium” by Jacques Cousteau – meets the Pacific Ocean and where the best of all the aspects of Mexico converge. The Rough Guide describes Los Cabos as “easily the most exclusive parcel of land in Baja California” and its close proximity to Cabo Pulmo, La Paz and Todos Santos make it the perfect spot for a multi-destination holiday. La Paz, the state capital, is only a two-hour drive north from Los Cabos and is known as the main gateway to the Sea of Cortez. Here, visitors will find some of the most beautiful beaches and islands in the area, many of which are Unesco Heritage sites. The two main towns in Los Cabos are San José del Cabo and the slightly larger Cabo San Lucas. Both combine Mexico’s generations-old charms, with high-end accommodation and entertainment options. San José del Cabo’s historical old town remains intact, while Cabo San Lucas retains the atmosphere of the tiny fishing village it was until tourism options were expanded in the late 20th century. Now, it is also a hub of nightlife, with
a host of exceptional restaurants, bars and clubs. The 20-mile (32km) corridor between them is also home to a number of exclusive resort hotels, golf clubs and spas. All offer a luxurious base from which to begin a vast array of leisure pursuits. But without question the magnificent ocean is the dominant presence, surrounding three sides of Los Cabos and providing sustenance to the region’s population for centuries. Visitors can join fishing excursions out onto the water, seeking black and blue marlin, dorado or yellowfin tuna, among others, depending on season. This is one of the most biologically diverse stretches of water on the planet, and you can also strap on a snorkel or scuba gear to glimpse a peerless underwater kingdom. Cousteau, the most respected underwater explorer of all time, should know – and numerous companies offer boat hire or organised tours to help you tread in his flipper-steps. Even more magnificent are the five species of whales that are frequent visitors to the waters around Los Cabos, particularly in the winter months. Whale watching tours are readily accessible, with some companies offering a guarantee of sightings, so great are the numbers in which the creatures patrol the waters. In addition to the humpback, grey, fin, sperm
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and blue whales, visitors can often also glimpse several types of dolphin, orcas, sea turtles, sea lions, jacks and hammerhead, whale or mako sharks. There are also tours from Cabo San Lucas that take in the magnificent “El Arco”, the limestone arch, also known as “Land’s End”, that marks the point the Sea of Cortez and Pacific Ocean meet. It provides one of the most popular and spectacular photo opportunities in the Americas, much to the bemusement of the sea lions who congregate beneath it. You can also take in this wonderful scenery from the air in a microlight aircraft or while parasailing. No matter how you view it, it is breathtaking. Inland Los Cabos also offers a dizzying array of activities, from camel rides to zip-line tours; bungee jumps to ATV expeditions. There is a thriving art and culture scene across the municipality, with music, comedy and visual arts festivals. The area's rich history has yielded more than 200 archaeological sites have been discovered along the Los Cabos peninsula in which there are extraordinary ancient cave paintings, revealing intimate details of the lives of the ancient societies who colonised the region up to 8,000 years ago.
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T H E G R E AT B E YO N D I F YO U T H I N K M E X I C O I S B E A U T I F U L O N T H E S U R FA C E , YO U S H O U L D S E E W H AT I T I S H I D I N G B E N E AT H I T S S E A S.
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Parque Acuatico Xcaret, Riviera Maya, Quintana Roo
From the moment man first started venturing beneath the ocean, the extraordinary waters around Mexico have proved an irresistible draw. The country is considered one of the most diverse and attractive destinations in the world for diving and – in the words of Scuba Diving Magazine – “offers as many variations on diving as there are types of salsa”. There are almost as many seascapes surrounding Mexico as there are landscapes in the country, from the Pacific Ocean lapping against the west coast and along all sides of the Baja California peninsula, to the vast coastline along the Gulf of Mexico
and the magnificent beaches that skirt the Caribbean Sea. Some of the world’s great underwater mammals make their home in waters surrounding Mexico, while majestic, untouched coral reefs support a dazzling array of marine life.The whole of the Yucatan Peninsula conceals beneath its surface a vast network of underwater caves, accessible by plunging into water-filled sinkholes – Mexico’s iconic “cenotes”. Jungle exploration can quickly become underwater adventure and a photographer’s paradise. Divers heading to the country have one key decision to take at the outset of their adventure: to head to the west
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coast of the country and the Pacific Ocean, or east towards the Caribbean. Although there’s plenty of appeal in each destination – and invariably exceptions to the rules – by and large Pacific diving offers a more challenging experience, in slightly cooler, more choppy and open waters, populated by white sharks, whales and manta rays. Meanwhile the Caribbean often appeals to the more resort-oriented diver. The area is characterised by its idyllic, crystal clear waters and island charms, where divers can explore vibrant reefs, caves and cenotes by day and then discuss the day’s feats in bars and restaurants by night.
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Snorkel en Parque Xel-ha, Riviera Maya, Quintana Roo
Parque acuatico Xcaret, Riviera Maya, Quintana Roo
The best way to explore the diving sites of the Pacific is often via “liveaboard” boat trips: divers sleep any number of nights on a well-appointed ship with the water never more than a few yards away. Options here include the volcanic archipelago collectively known as Socorro, after its largest island, which provides a habitat for at least seven types of shark. The sheer number of different species in the area has led Socorro to be dubbed Mexico’s Galapagos – although your best chance at coming face-to-face with one of the world’s most notorious predators is to head north, to the island of Guadalupe. Here, divers can be lowered in cages to get intimate with the great white shark. Closer to the shore, the Sea of Cortez is another highly desirable Pacific diving site. Slightly more sheltered by the Baja California peninsula to the west and the mainland to the east, there are plenty of small islands scattered around supporting numerous bird species, as well as sea lions, whales and sharks. Waters tend to be slightly warmer here and there are diving options year-round. Just off of the eastern edge of the Yucatan Peninsula, close to Playa del Carmen, the island of Cozumel provides a luxurious base from which to plunge into the depths of the
the longest underwater cave systems in the world can be found in this area of Mexico, deep beneath the dense jungle above. This great variety of dive sites support visitors of all ages and experience. Veteran divers can sign up immediately for some of the most demanding and rewarding dives of their lives, but Mexico is also a fine place to reach for a snorkel for the first time. There are numerous schools across the country affiliated with the sport’s authorised training organisations, who run classes for children as young as eight. Instructors are multilingual and take classes in shallow lagoons and swimming pools, allowing new divers to gain the skills, confidence and certification they need to head out on highly fulfilling adventures. After that, the only barrier is your own imagination – and how many things you want to tick off on your bucket list in one trip.
Caribbean. Known as the “Island of Swallows”, Cozumel grew vastly in prominence after the great underwater explorer Jacques Cousteau declared it one of his favourite diving sites in the world. Cozumel sits amid the enormous Great Maya Reef, the second-largest reef system in the world, which has been a thriving, complex ecosystem for thousands of years. The reef supports turtles and sharks, as well as at least 500 fish species and numerous types of coral over its 1,500 square miles (3,884 sq/km). The water here is warm and immaculately clear: temperatures average 25C/77F in the winter and 29C/85F in summer, with visibility up to 100 feet. (30.5m). Divers can explore caverns and fissures, such as the Punta Sur Reef and around the Palancar Garden, and examine vast underwater “walls”, around which prowl an extraordinary variety of marine life. Nowhere on the Yucatan Peninsula is too far from a cenote; one of the sinkholes formed 8,000 years ago during the last ice age which are now a diver’s gateway into a magnificent subterranean world. Some underwater caverns can be narrow and dark, but there are also a dizzying array of breathtaking locations to discover, revealing spectacular formations of stalactites and stalagmites. Some of
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DIVING: COZUMEL T H E V I B R A N T U N D E R WAT E R WO R L D O F C OZ UM E L M A K E S I T O N E O F T H E P L A N E T ' S M O S T P O P U L A R D I V E D E S T I N AT I O N S.
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When Jacques Cousteau first visited Cozumel in 1962, it didn’t take long for him to declare it one of the most spectacular scuba diving areas in the world. Since that time, the island has gained an international reputation as one of the planet's premier diving destinations, attracting thousands of divers and snorkelers to its underwater panorama. Cozumel was rated as one of the top five dive destinations in the Caribbean based on value, visibility and advanced diving. Readers also rated it among the top 10 dive destinations for its marine life, exceptional wall diving and advanced diving. Dive operators and hotels also placed high on lists for Most Popular Land Based Dive Operators and Most Popular Dive Resorts. Home of the largest reef system in the Western Hemisphere, Cozumel is ringed by more than 40 dive sites teeming with tropical fish and a kaleidoscope of multi-coloured coral reefs. The exceptionally clear aquamarine waters are virtually transparent, providing divers with up to 200 feet (61m)
of visibility. Contributing to the island’s allure is the bathtub-like water temperature, which ranges from 77F to 82F (25C-28C) year-round. Topside, the island is embraced by an average temperature of 76F (24.4C). Cozumel’s coral reefs are sprinkled with limestone caves, tunnels, and rare trees of black coral. More than 30 reefs, ranging in depth from 15 to 90 feet (14.5m-27.5m) , team with marine flora and fauna – moray eels, sea turtles, nurse sharks, giant anemone, great groupers, queen angel, hermit crab, parrotfish, giant sponges, cactus coral, gorgonian fans, multicolored globes of brain coral, and the “Splendid Toad Fish”, endemic to the area. The island offers a plethora of underwater adventures. Divers can explore great mounds of coral “bolones” at Chankanaab Park, face off with great grouper and moray eels atTormentos or plunge 120 feet (36.5m) into the brilliant green abyss of San Francisco. But the most famous dive site is the magnificent mountain of coral known as Palancar. Monstrous heads of coral climb to a height of 80 feet (24m),
crowned with red gorgonian fans and enormous yellow sponges. Internal fissures create dramatic passages between the masses of coral, which plummet abruptly into the depths below. Known as the drift-diving capital of the world, Cozumel’s constant southto-north water current allows divers to jump from the boat, explore the dive site while adrift with the current, and ascend to find the boat waiting at the surface. An offshore current of about 2 to 4 knots runs northward throughout the year and forms the beginning of the Gulf Stream. Although the current poses very little risk, divers are urged to use support boats when diving farther from shore. For those divers venturing into the coral canyons, knowledgeable Cozumel guides add a margin of safety and can help pinpoint otherwise hard-to-find diving sites. There are more than 50 certified dive operators on the island and most hotels also have on-site dive operators for the convenience of guests.
Photo by Yibran Aragon
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TEE IT UP With spectacular landscapes across the country – from rugged coastline to mountain vistas, wide open plains and dense jungle – it is little wonder Mexico has become one of the most popular destinations in the world to play golf. There are more than 160 courses in the country, designed by the top names in the business, all finding distinctive ways to utilise Mexico’s rich natural treasures. The premier courses present a challenge as tough as anywhere on the international circuit, but high-end resorts welcome golfers of all abilities to sample their unique appeal.
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FOUR SEASONS P U N TA M I TA There’s no mistaking the stand-out attraction of Four Seasons – Punta Mita Golf complex. It is home to the only course in the world to have a green that covers the whole of a natural island in the middle of the ocean. At hole 3B of the Jack Nicklaus-designed Pacifico Course, dubbed the “Tail of the Whale”, your tee shot is aimed over the ocean towards a craggy outcrop on which sits the green. It is a spectacular highlight on a course of superlative beauty. Both the Pacifico Course and its sis-
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ter Bahia Course sit on the Punta Mita peninsula, beneath the Sierra Madre Mountains and with views over either the Pacific Ocean or Banderas Bay. R I V I E R A M AYA BAHIA PRINCIPE There are 27 holes at the Riviera Maya Golf Club in Bahia Principe, near Cancun, each of them set against the breathtaking backdrop of the Mayan jungle. Only a short distance from the ancient Mayan ruins, the 18-hole championship course and its ninehole executive neighbour, sit in perfect harmony with the tropical forest
and a deep limestone quarry. Robert Trent Jones II skilfully integrated natural lakes and cenotes into his course design, in particular beware the gaping, spectacular crater to the left of the sixth green. You will never see that ball again. D I A M A N T E C A BO SA N LU C A S There are few better uses of 1.5 miles (2.4km) of Pacific beachfront than the golf resort Diamante Cabo San Lucas. The site of the aptly named Dunes Course was likened by its designer, Davis Love III, to the famed St Andrews links. But while the course’s undulating dunes bear some resemblance to the Home of Golf, the beautiful weather and white sand are distinctly Mexican. Ranked Mexico’s #1 course by Golf Digest magazine, the Dunes Course boasts spectacular views over the ocean throughout. Tiger Woods designed the neighbouring El Cardonal course, modelling it after the finest courses of Southern California.
“Regardless of your handicap, there are going to be different ways to play every hole,” Woods said of the course that weaves across dunes, through indigenous mature vegetation and around the area’s natural creeks. M AYA KO BA R E S O RT The PGA Tour only stops once in Mexico and it comes to rest at the Greg Norman-designed El Cameléon course in Quintana Roo on the Yucatán Peninsula. Serviced by two of the finest highend resort hotels in the country, the course is also among the Mexico’s most spectacular, taking golfers from jungle to ocean in a seamless journey. Borrowing its name from one of the species of reptiles that sometimes stroll on to the course, El Cameléon is also noted for its inventive integration of the area’s distinctive vegetation and natural cenotes. You might notice one of these water pools in the middle of the first fairway, though hopefully not when your ball plops into it.
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Q U I V I R A G O L F C LU B One of Jack Nicklaus’s modern masterpieces, the Quivira Golf Club in Cabo San Lucas is among the most dramatic courses in the country. Perched on the narrow cliff tops overlooking the Pacific Ocean, poor drives here plunge off the sheer edges into the deep blue below.The course’s topography is exceptionally varied as it winds its way from high cliffs down to the sandy dunes. Golfers can take refuge and sustenance at the Oasis restaurant near to the course’s mid-point, then reward themselves for completing the challenge at a highly rated steakhouse in the thatched clubhouse.
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RIVIERA M AYA T H E R E I S N O M Y S T E R Y TO T H E M A G N E T I C A P P E A L O F T H E AW E S O M E R I V I E R A M AYA I N T H E S TAT E O F Q U I N TA N A R O O – I T ' S T H E S T U N N I N G S U N , S E A A N D S A N D.
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Riviera Maya is a peerless paradise for anyone who is seeking all the most appealing aspects of a beachside holiday – without any of the drawbacks. The weather is rarely anything but perfect; the beaches are long and wide, the sand is white and clean. Meanwhile the water is warm and crystal clear – and has majestic treasures hidden beneath, waiting to be discovered. There are palm trees with hammocks strung between them.There are lagoons, golf courses and spas – and some of the country’s most luxurious accommodation in which to base yourself as you explore. The whole area is family friendly, so visitors of all ages can indulge in a wide variety of activities, or simply sit back and relax in one of Mexico’s most stunning oases. The Riviera Maya stretches from the town of Puerto Morelos in the north to the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve in the south, a strip of coastline that once featured nothing more than a smattering of small fishing villages and miles of untouched beach.
Thankfully the serene atmosphere of the region has been retained even as the secret has gradually escaped. It is an ecotourism destination, with all the local resorts making commitments to preserving the region’s exceptional natural gifts. The Riviera Maya supports a particular ecosystem and is home to some especially delicate animal species, both on land and in the water. Many of them can be observed by simply grabbing your snorkel and hopping on a boat. This is one of the best areas in the whole of Latin America for underwater exploration. Not far off the coast of the Riviera Maya lies the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef, the largest in the Northern Hemisphere, and supports more than 500 species of fish and shark, at least 100 corals, plus both loggerhead and green turtle. There are diving centres along the coast, as well as on the nearby island of Cozumel, equipped with everything you need to take the plunge.
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This area also boasts the longest underground river system in the world, accessible via natural sinkholes known as “cenotes”. Divers can visit dramatic underwater landscapes of caverns and caves, viewing spectacular stalactites and stalagmites – an adventure like few others in the world. There are too many beaches to count in Riviera Maya, from the five bays of Akumal (meaning “the Place of Turtles”) to the extraordinary Tulum beach, over which peer the 13th-century Mayan ruins. A wooden staircase leads down from the citadel to the beach and the turquoise sea. It is never too difficult to find a kayak to rent, or a boat tour to join all the way along the coastline. Visitors can strap on water skis or hop on a paddle-board or windsurf. You can also view the entire beauty of the area while parasailing high above the ocean. The largest city on the Riviera Maya, Playa del Carmen, has grown from a tiny village sustained by the fishing in-
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dustry to become one of Mexico’s most fashionable tourism hubs. By day, it is a thriving beachside resort, with ample sandy shores on which to relax and soak up the sun. By night, there are a multitude of high-quality restaurants, bars and nightclubs to explore; holidaymakers from across Europe and North America mingle in well-appointed hotels and apartment complexes. It is possible to do yoga on the beach at dawn, eat brunch in a beachside cafe, then spend an afternoon exploring the wondrous depths of the Caribbean, before returning to dry land to begin eating, drinking and partying. The only question is when – or perhaps whether – to sleep. But if you must put your head down, there are a host of the finest options to choose from. The five-star Banyan Tree, for example, is set among fresh-
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water lagoons and mangroves, with its own golf course, and guests can stay in a variety of villas surrounded by their own private swimming pool. Similarly, some of the suites at the Mandarin Oriental are set around “art courtyards” featuring installations by local artists. Hummingbirds buzz through the surrounding vegetation; while lagoons and cenotes are incorporated into the hotel designs. Other options include any number of cabanas all the way along the Riviera Maya, with doors that open on to the beach. At dawn, you can watch the pelicans going about their early-morning fishing. At night, the stars shine with amazing brightness in the pitch-black sky, glinting off your cocktail glass. If they ever tire of the beaches, children will love the Xplor or AktunChen Adventure Parks, or any of the zip-lines that offer an adrenaline rush
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in the forest canopy. Parents – or any couples on a romantic break – can pamper themselves at the area’s many wellness retreats, where treatments often make use of the same organic, indigenous ingredients once so sacred to the Mayans. Everything that is most spectacular about Riviera Maya comes together in Sian Ka’an, which became a designated biosphere resort in 1986 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site soon after. You can snorkel along the barrier reef, explore the Mayan ruins, venture into the wetlands and maybe even glimpse sight of a crocodile, then take a bird-watching tour at sunset. And whatever you choose to do, you’re never more than a few yards from a beach, a hammock and perfect relaxation.
Set on the stunning white beaches of the Riviera Maya, the UNICO 20°87° Hotel Riviera Maya is an adults-only, all-inclusive hotel that immerses guests in the culture of the region. Rather than relying on tradition and heritage, UNICO 20°87° embraces contemporary culture and connect guests to the real version of México, as it is today. The hotel staff embody the brand’s muse, “The Proud Local,” allowing guests to experience different regions from a true local’s perspective. With exteriors designed by Artigas and interiors conceptualized by AvroKo, UNICO 20°87° Hotel Riviera Maya features 448 guestrooms with predominately ocean-views, boasting semi-private swim-up pool and double hydro spa tub options, and an in-room mini bar stocked for guest preference. Signature guest experiences include art for purchase from local artisans both in-room and throughout the property, and the Esencia Beauty Bar, where guests select their own personalized in-room amenities made with local ingredients. Food and beverage offerings foster a sense of regional celebration. The Executive Mixologist infuses local flavours and ingredients to craft spe-
cialty cocktails throughout the hotel, and the annual rotating chef restaurant concept has a focus on emerging talent and flavours. Embracing a more local approach, UNICO 20°87° offers all guests a unique “Host” for their stay, replacing the traditional butler service. From arriving in a custom-scented lobby where guests are introduced to the UNICO 20°87° Experience App – which features information on each week’s activities – to gastronomy and libation mixology, every touch point and interaction has been crafted and curated with an extraordinary list of unique features and options. Equal parts international outpost and local getaway, UNICO 20°87° fully immerses its guests through exclusively developed private excursions, such as exploring the region’s lesser known alcoves with native hosts and dining at local tastemakers’ preferred restaurants and bars. On property, culturally inspired activities include cooking classes taught by renowned regional chefs and impromptu popup programming, from mezcal tastings to Art Attack competitions and acoustic sunset jams.
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H OT E L FAC I L I T I E S Rooms: 448 Restaurants: five globally-infused gourmet restaurants and six bars and lounges, including a cigar lounge and two swim up bars. Pool: three expansive pools each offering a unique experience, Spa: 18 luxe cabanas, hydrotherapy facilities with a plunge pool and Hammam, beauty salon and barbershop equipped with a cocktail cart offering whiskey and beer, as well as steam and sauna room. Gym: The Esencia Wellness Center features a state-of-the-art fitness facility boasting specialty classes, a visiting instructor program and personal training sessions Golf: Yes Events: experiential meetings and weddings, featuring a ballroom, two breakout rooms and outdoor event space. G E N E R A L I N F O R M AT I O N Telephone: +52 984 875 7700 Address: Manzana 22 Carretera Federal 307 Km 260, 77710 Solidaridad Quintana Roo, Mexico Website: www.unicohotelrivieramaya.com
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PUERTO VA L L A R T A I F YO U WA N T A WA R M - W E AT H E R B R E A K T H AT O U T S H I N E S T H E OT H E R S T H E N L E T LO O S E A N D H AV E T H E T I M E O F YO U R L I F E I N T H E J E W E L O F T H E PA C I F I C C O A S T.
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Puerto Vallarta sits at the centre of the exquisite Banderas Bay, officially listed as one of the most beautiful in the world. Located in the state of Jalisco, the bay shelters numerous diverse ecosystems, including tropical lagoons, rainforests, mangroves, pristine beaches, reefs, waterfalls and spectacular mountains. The town at its centre was founded in the mid-19th century and is now home to around 300,000 people. It comprises several distinctive regions, each with its own specific charms. El Centro (Downtown) combines the quaint cobblestone streets of a historic centre with the lively nightlife of a modern metropolis, while across the town’s famous boardwalk (Malecón) lies Puerto Vallarta’s main, sumptuous beach. The South Shore offers another flavour entirely and is the point where the Sierra Madre mountains meet the ocean. It is characterised by tiny, secluded coves and beaches, some only accessible by boat.
Meanwhile, you can find high-end boutique hotels, condos and spas, plus an 18-hole golf course, in the area named after, and surrounding, the exclusive Marina Vallarta. In short, Puerto Vallarta offers everything one could hope for in a city, beachside or rural retreat. For most visitors, the plan is simple: soak up the sun and let your stress slip away along 40 miles (64km) of shimmering shoreline. In addition to the breathtaking beaches, Puerto Vallarta’s diverse terrain ranges from river beds and rugged mountains to arid flatlands and lush tropical vegetation, which shelters hundreds of species of wildlife, such as the ocelot, the jaguar and the iguana. Pacific bottlenose dolphins and spotted dolphins are a common sight in the area’s waters, and the town is home to one of the best education and research facilities about the mammals in the region. Humpback whales are also often seen at Banderas Bay, while the Puerto Vallarta Sea Turtle
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Conservation Program aims to help preserve one of the world’s vulnerable species: the olive ridley marine turtle, which lays its eggs on the area’s beaches. Visitors can go scuba diving to get up close and personal with the whales, sea lions, turtles, manta rays and tropical fish. But if you would rather stay dry, why not hitch a safari tour or drive your own off-road vehicle through the thick jungles of the Sierra Madre? Or for gravity defying thrills, you can strap into the longest zip line in Mexico and reach speeds of up to 62mph (100 kmh). The ride takes you high into the forest canopy. The daytime temperature here is between 26C-32C (80F-90F) yearround and even the showers during the rainy season tend to arrive only in late afternoon, cooling the air for your evening explorations. Indulge in the mouth-watering flavours and aromas of Puerto Vallarta’s world-class restaurants, which take
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full advantage of local ingredients, traditional Mexican recipes and top-rated chefs. Down by the beach, you can sample traditional “pescado embarazado”, fish pulled fresh from the ocean, marinated in lime and then roasted over coals, before being served with traditional huichol salsa. Or try “birria”, a spicy meat dish eaten with tortilla, or “pozole”, a delicious pork or chicken broth. Each May, Puerto Vallarta hosts Restaurant Week: the region’s flagship festival of gastronomic excellence, showcasing Mexico’s distinctive cuisine – from the mellow flavours of Oaxaca to the Mediterranean-inspired fare from Veracruz. Restaurants typically have plenty of outdoor seating, in courtyards, gardens and rooftop terraces, for you to enjoy the sights and sounds of Puerto Vallarta long past dusk. Well-known for the preservation of its Mexican traditions, the city presents an authentic vibe on every street. In the 19th century, it was a mining town called “Las Peñas” and today it
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is home to artists and culture vultures from around the world, who have been inspired by the mix of romance and the beauty of the town and its people. The vibrant artistic scene is reflected in more than 30 art galleries showcasing work by local, national and international artists, and well as cultural festivals year round. There is also a wide array of public art located around the town, particularly lining the Malecón. These pieces include the nine-foot sculpture The Boy on the Seahorse, by Rafael Zamarripa Castañeda, which was installed in 1976 and is now among Puerto Vallarta’s most popular landmarks. Puerto Vallarta is indisputably a warm and welcoming holiday destination and has been ranked as one of the top 10 LGBT honeymoon destinations in the world, thanks to a host of accommodation options, attractions and activities specifically tailored for the LGBT community. In 2014, Puerto Vallarta became the first destination in Mexico to take part in the World Pride celebrations
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and it remains at the forefront of the campaign to remove discrimination from the tourism industry. Throughout the past 180 years, Puerto Vallarta has grown from a tiny harbour town used predominantly by boats carrying salt for the use in nearby silver mines, to a hub for fisherman seeking the rich variety of treasures from the bay to an exclusive hangout of the Hollywood rich and famous. It is now a bewitching resort town, at once a charming tangle of whitewalled houses, wrought-iron balconies and red-tiled roofs, and the home of high-end luxury hotels and restaurants, and pulsing nightclubs.
SAN MIGUEL E V E R Y T R AV E L L E R W H O H A S S E T F O OT H E R E O V E R T H E PA S T 5 0 0 Y E A R S H A S F O U N D T H E M S E LV E S H E L D C A P T I V E BY T H E S A M E WO N D R O U S S P E L L . I T I S S O B E A U T I F U L , YO U M AY W I S H N E V E R TO L E AV E .
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The enchantment with San Miguel de Allende begins en route. The jewel at the heart of the Bajío region is first glimpsed from the road across the Mexican heartlands. It sits 6,200 feet (1,890m) above sea level, on the side of a hill gazing across the Laja River and the open expanses of ranches and orchards – patches of green, fed by spring water, that dapple the surrounding desert. Once through the fortifications and into the city limits, San Miguel de Allende reveals itself as a perfectly balanced combination of authentic colonial architecture and Mexican heritage, complemented by a rare, modern, luxurious vibrancy. It's a place that has been recognised by both UNESCO and the high-end lifestyle magazines. It is a national monument, magical town and one of the most captivating destinations in the country. Founded in 1541 at the height of central Mexico’s silver-mining boom, San Miguel de Allende grew from
a small village – now the El Chorro neighbourhood – into a magnificent showcase for the excellence of the Baroque and neoclassical architects of the 18th and 19th centuries. Thanks in no small part to a local hero of the rebellion named Ignacio Allende, San Miguel became the first municipality in Mexico to be declared independent from Spanish rule, and it assumed Allende’s name in his honour. Even after the town fell on hard times for some of the subsequent century, the whole of San Miguel de Allende was declared a national monument in 1926. It meant that when artists and beatniks began rediscovering the town during the mid-20th century, they found an oasis of untouched delights. Awash in the never-ending sunlight of the plains, and with a climate described as “eternal spring”, San Miguel de Allende’s popularity quickly spread across the world. When UNESCO added San Miguel
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de Allende to its list of cultural heritage in 2008, it described a “melting pot where Spaniards, Creoles and Amerindians exchanged cultural influences”, adding the city “constitutes an exceptional example of the interchange of human values”. It is beautifully preserved, yet buzzing with life and in 2016 was listed as “No 1 City in Mexico and Central and South America” by Travel + Leisure magazine. Conde Nast Traveler noted its “great atmosphere, excellent restaurants, culture and ambiance galore” after readers voted San Miguel de Allende the best city in the world. Of its 160,000-strong population, some 12 per cent are expats, enticed to remain permanently in San Miguel de Allende by an enduring elegance and extraordinarily high quality of life. Numerous artistic and gastronomic festivals take place in the city year-round, while new restaurants and hotels regularly open their doors, bringing a perennial freshness to the narrow, cobblestone lanes.
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Like all thriving municipalities, San Miguel de Allende revolves around a central square and an iconic place of worship. The former is the Jardin Principal – a garden of laurel trees, fountains, benches and bandstands that somehow manages to be both tranquil and bustling. Residents and visitors share lazy conversation and local delicacies bought from traders’ stalls, all to the soundtrack of mariachi music. Standing tall along the southern edge of this timeless scene is the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, the town’s most significant building and among Mexico’s most spectacular gothic monuments. Originally built in the 16th century, the church’s façade was dramatically recast and extended in 1880 by the self-taught stonemason Zeferino Gutierrez, who modelled it partly on European neo-gothic cathedrals and partly from his own vivid imagination. During daylight hours, the delicate arches, friezes and finials, hewn from pink sandstone, strike a dazzling contrast to the blue sky overhead. After dark, visitors can sit in rooftop bars and restaurants and gaze across the
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garden onto the illuminated façade. Spreading out from the town’s centre, San Miguel de Allende’s narrow streets offer a wealth of further treasures. The former mansions of the town’s early inhabitants now house museums, galleries or boutique hotels, while there remain a number of traditional market-places and tiny stores, selling fresh produce and local handicrafts. Highlights include the Museo Historico de San Miguel de Allende, the city’s historical museum, which occupies the house in which the fabled Allende was born. Meanwhile the Instituto Allende, whose charming complex of courtyards, patios and gardens was originally the home of an 18th-century nobleman, became a convent and then an internationally renowned art school in the 1950s. Similarly, the public library, which occupies a splendid 18th-century building north of the Jardin Principal, is a central hub of culture in the city. Every Sunday, a tour leaves the library to offer an exclusive glimpse inside a number private homes, returning to a tranquil courtyard café.
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Many of the town’s colonial-style lodgings are now hotels or are available for private rental, offering the highest levels of opulence without sacrificing any authenticity. Eating options range from traditional, hearty fare sold by street vendors to chic signature restaurants of some of Latin America’s most celebrated chefs. The UNESCO inscription of San Miguel de Allende also includes the 250-year-old Sanctuary of Atotonilco, a spectacular Baroque church about eight miles (13km) from the town centre. Dubbed the Sistine Chapel of Mexico for its extravagant artistic delights – its walls and ceilings are almost entirely covered in outstanding frescos and paintings – Atotonilco is also surrounded by thermal springs. Visitors can wonder at the beauties they have witnessed while bathing in mineral-rich hot water.
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Campo de Agave en Tequila, Tequila
TEQUILA N O R T H - W E S T O F G UA D A L A J A R A , I N T H E VA L L E Y O F A D O R M A N T V O L C A N O, T H E R E L I E S A VA S T P L A N TAT I O N O F S P I K Y- L E AV E D P L A N T S N A M E D B L U E A G AV E W I T H A V E R Y FA M I L I A R - S O U N D I N G TO W N AT I T S C E N T R E .
Perhaps many would-be visitors to Mexico don’t even know the town of around 30,000 people exists, nor how significant a part those blue agave plants have played in their lives. But as soon as a name is attached, none will miss the significance. Tequila. For around 500 years, ever since local farmers first extracted the sugars
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from the succulent “piña” that lies at the heart of the agave plant, the town ofTequila has been known for the drink that bears its name. While westerners may associate tequila with salt and lime and a hole in their memory, authentic tequila is a delicious delicacy, embraced by the Spanish conquistadors of the 16th century and refined to
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perfection over the ensuing centuries. The world’s leading tequila brands all have their distilleries in the region – indeed, only tequila produced in this area can legally carry the name. UNESCO listed the agave landscape and ancient industrial facilities of Tequila on its World Heritage List in 2006, recognising all aspects of the
Caminata por campos de agave, Tequila, Jalisco
drink's production, from the work of the early cultivators who shaped the fields for agriculture, to the more industrialised refineries of the past 300 years. Twenty authentic tequila production plants from the 18th century remain to this day and are part of the UNESCO inscription. No visitor to Tequila can leave without exploring the rich history of the drink’s production, nor without sampling the product – and there is ample opportunity to do both. In the town’s Plaza Principal, the National Tequila Museum offers a solid overview of the region’s unique standing in world drinking culture, while many visitors will also drop in on La Rojeña distillery, which claims to be the oldest in the Americas. Daily tours at La Rojeña guide visitors through every step of the process that transforms the pulpy starch at the centre of the agave “pineapples” into the clear, distinctive drink. After seeing the brick ovens where the agave is cooked, then the copper stills
and wooden barrels in which the tequila acquires its unique flavour, visitors can head to the expert tasting rooms, and a bar staffed by experienced cocktail waiters. You can then retire to the courtyard to sit and soak up the sun, margarita in hand. La Rojeña is only one stop on the unique “Tequila Trail” that snakes all the way through tequila country, taking visitors to several other distilleries where similar processes can be observed first hand. And there’s actually no need to wait until arriving to the town to sip your first drink: the “Tequila Express” train runs from Guadalajara to the Tequila Herradura distillery in Amatitán, and passengers are serenaded by mariachi bands as they get their taste of the region’s delicacy. A nine-and-a-half hour round trip includes a tour of the distillery and dinner, plus stunning views across the agave plantations. Similarly, the plush José Cuervo Express, which runs in and out of
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Tequila itself, entertains passengers in wood-panelled train carriages fitted out as historical bars. Waiters are always on hand to keep guests well refreshed. If these experiences feel too refined, fear not. Visitors are also able to take horse-back tours out into the agave plantations and to meet the “jimadors” who still harvest the agave plants by hand. As the horses pause to take on water, you can take on tequila and toast the artisans whose centuries-old work brought it to your glass. The town of Tequila itself is a charming stopping point on any tour of the country. Founded in 1530, it maintains much of its original ambiance and was named one of Mexico’s 111 “Magical Towns” in 2003, recognising a place that has retained its natural beauty, cultural richness and historical relevance to the country. The religious centrepiece of the town is the beautiful Santiago Apostol Parish church, built in the 17th century,
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but still welcoming worshippers and visitors to its services and festivals throughout the year. Visitors can also experience five generations of life in and around Tequila at the Museum Los Abuelos (the Grandparents Museum), housed in a family dwelling at the centre of the town. The town is never so alive as during its Tequila festivals, which take place every March and November. The various distillers all pour into the town centre with samples of their finest tequila, while the streets are filled with revelry day and night. Artists and musicians display their skills in specially arranged demonstrations and in November a Tequila queen is crowned during the festivities and celebrated with fireworks displays. There are numerous places to eat and to stay year round both in Tequila and around the Jalisco region, with options to suit all tastes and budgets. Diners can peer over the agave plantations and the volcano from the Sky Bar at the Hotel Solar de las Animas, for example, or focus more intently on their food and drink in the subterranean La Taberna Del Cofrade. Because of its small size, especially in comparison with the number of visitors it welcomes every year, Tequila puts special focus on geo-tourism, meaning it works in harmony with the region’s natural heritage and culture. Each and every visitor will experience exactly how the town functions and why it remains such a vibrant home of Mexico’s national drink.
Paisaje en Jalisco, Tequila, Jalisco
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EVENTS 2017
Tijuana, Baja California
15 - 18 Nov 2017
Identified as one of the best gastro-touristic events in Mexico, you will find our country’s best chefs as well as some very well known international chefs at this event in Baja California.
Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco
Cozumel, Quintana Roo
BA JA C U L I N A RY FEST
19 Oct - 5 Nov 2017 Mérida, Yucatán Outlines the value of the Mayas as a living culture. The festival is live in Merida, Kanasin, Motul, Tekax and Progreso. facebook.com/FICMAYA
MEXICAN DESIGN O P E N 2 017 19 - 23 Oct 2017 Mexico City The festival is dedicated to celebrate all aspects of design and bring them closer to society. As this is its third year, the festival is now consolidated as the best design event in Mexico. abiertodediseno.mx
MORELIA I N T E R N AT I O N A L F I L M F E S T I VA L 20 - 29 Oct 2017 Morelia, Michoacán This is a unique meeting point for film-making artists, the people of Michoacan and the international film industry. moreliafilmfest.com
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I RO N M A N COZUMEL
27 - 30 Oct 2017
I N T E R N AT I O N A L FISHING TO U R N A M E N T
I N T E R N AT I O N A L F E S T I VA L O F M AYA N C U LT U R E
www.bajaculinaryfest.com
MEXICO F1 GRAND PRIX 29 Oct 2017 Mexico City Everybody is ready for what has been voted the Best Formula 1 GP in the past 2 years. www.mexicogp.mx
LO S C A BO S I N T E R N AT I O N A L F I L M F E S T I VA L 8 - 12 Nov 2017 Los Cabos, Baja California Sur A very exciting opportunity for the film industry community from Mexico USA and Canada. cabosfilmfestival.com/en/ home/
Make sure you get the biggest fish in this wonderful competition. The categories are: Marlin, Sail Fish, Tuna, Dorado. Catch & Release.
26 Nov 2017
The Mexican Caribbean will receive thousands of athletes and spectators from all over the world for this high endurance competition! www.ironmancozumel.com
www.fishvallarta.com
R I V I E R A M AYA JA Z Z F E S T I VA L
N O C H E D E LO S RÁ BA N O S 23 Dec 2017
30 Nov - 2 Dec 2017
Oaxaca, Oaxaca
Playa del Carmen, Quintana Roo
One of the best places to see the Mexican Christmas scene, filled with flowers and horticulturists at their best. This is considered one of the most important festivals after Guelaguetza.
The best voices, musicians and shows on Jazz get together in this wonderful festival. All with the beautiful Caribbean backdrop. jazzfestival2017.com
MEXICAN WINE F E S T I VA L 25 - 26 Nov 2017 Guadalajara, Jalisco Wine makers from all of Mexico will get together at Jalisco’s capital in order for you to get to know the best wine. fevino.mx
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PA S TO R E L A S ( N AT I V I T Y P L AYS ) December 2017 Tepotzotlán, Estado de México Make sure you attend the traditional “Pastorelas”, with over 50 years of tradition with 10 top names perform the main roles.
2018 B P M F E S T I VA L January (2nd week) 2018
V E R AC RU Z C A R N I VA L
I N T E R N AT I O N A L F I L M F E S T I VA L
S P R I N G E Q U I N OX Teotihuacán, Estado de México
Playa del Carmen, Quintana Roo
February 2018
9 - 16 March 2018
Veracruz, Veracruz
This event is for those electronic music lovers. It will host over 200 of the best DJs in the world.
The oldest carnival in Mexico celebrates 90 years and has prepared a very special surprise.
Guadalajara, Jalisco
thebpmfestival.com
www.carnavalveracruz.com.mx
One of the most important festivals for promotion, appreciation and distribution of the film arts in Mexico.
March 2018
An event where everyone wears white clothes with red scarves or handkerchiefs (paliacates). If you’re looking for Energy, this is your place.
www.ficg.mx
F I E S TA G R A N D E January 2018 Chiapa de Corzo, Chiapas Every year, along with colours, voices and tradition, the traditional “Parachicos” dance is presented. Considered one of the most important festivities in the region.
SAY U L I TA F E S T I VA L 31 Jan - 4 Feb 2018
THE MEXICAN OPEN (TENNIS) 26 Feb - 3 March 2018 Acapulco, Guerrero The most important tennis tournament in Mexico. This year it celebrates 20 years and it will host some of the best players in the world. www.abiertomexicanodetenis. com/es/
Sayulita, Nayarit The so called hippie chic town will party for four days with music, cinema, food and the traditional surf competition. www.festivalsayulita.com
Z O N A M AC O 7 - 11 Feb 2018 Mexico City Considered one of the most important Contemporary Art exhibitions in Latin America.
BA N D E R A S BAY R E GAT TA
S P R I N G E Q U I N OX C U M B R E TA J Í N
March 2018
18 - 21 March 2018
Chichen Itzá, Yucatán
Papantla, Veracruz This festival celebrates the rebirth of the Totonaca culture, and the archaeological richness of the Sacred City “El Tajín”.
With the reflection of the Sun, you will see the Mayan snake coming down the Chichen Itza Pyramid, as the culture originally planned.
www.cumbretajin.com
V I V E L AT I N O F E S T I VA L
MEXICO CIT Y H I S TO R I C C E N T R E F E S T I VA L March 2018
17 - 18 March 2018
Mexico City
20 - 24 March 2018
Mexico City
Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco
This year, this Music Iberoamerican festival celebrates its 18th anniversary, and it will host great rock bands as well as other alternative music styles.
This year, it’s Latin America’s and Mexico City’s most important cultural celebration, with its 30th anniversary. Over 200 events with music, dance, theatre, visual arts and gastronomy.
The best regatta in Puerto Vallarta, one of our most important tourism destinations in the Pacific coast of Mexico.
www.vivelatino.com.mx
festival.org.mx
www.banderasbayregatta.com
zsonamaco.com
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T R AV E L PA R T N E R S A M S TA R D M C
A LTA M E X
www.amstardmc.com +52 (998) 881 9590/87/66
www.altamex.mx +52 (55) 5255 5929
Cancun, Riviera Maya, Cozumel, Puerto Vallarta. Los Cabos, Ixtapa, Huatulco, México DF, Acapulco and Mazatlán.
All regions.
Full service DMC that arranges everything from A to Z for any Group, Incentive and Convention. Transportation, meeting and incentives, group events, optional excursions, hospitality service, assistance in contracting hotels and in site inpections.
Transportation, Accommodations, Activities, Circuits, Meetings / Conventions.
D E S T I N AT I O N M E X I C O www.destination-mexico.com +52 (777) 316 4622 All regions.
I V I D E S T I N AT I O N M A N AG E M E N T www.ividmc.com +52 (998) 287 1700 Cancun, Riviera Maya, Puerto Vallarta, Riviera Nayarit, Los Cabos, Mexico City. A/V & Multimedia Equipment, Accommodations, Archaeological Sightseeing Tours, Out-of-the-box Theme Parties & Events, Philanthropic Projects, Pre & Post Tours, Registration Materials & Assistance, Skilled, Multilingual Communication Abilities, Transportation.
Incentive trips, airport/hotel transfer, special events, hospitality tables, dining in offsite venues, specialized tours, community, Elath programs, FIT, activities.
JAG UA R T R AV E L S O LU T I O N S , D M C www.jaguardmc.com +52 (998) 214 4454 +52 (998) 898 8020 Office +521 (998) 214 4454 Cel Cancun & Mayan Riviera, Merida & Cozumel.
SAT M E X I C O www.satmexico.com +52 (55) 3689 7600
Hotel Selection, Ground transportation, Dine Around, Tours and excursions, AV, Theme Nights, Décor, Event Production, Customs Broker, Golf, Give-aways.
Cancun y Riviera Maya. Program Planning and Design, Hotel Site Research, Investigation and Selection for any Budget, On-Site Program Operation, Group Activities, Customized ground transportation, Archeological tours, Echo-adventure activities, Water sports, Dine-around, Theme events, Team building activities, Spouse programs, Registration & hospitality staff.
I N T E R N AT I O N A L I N C E N T I V E T R AV E L www.iitdmc.com.mx +52 (998) 884 7880 Cancun, Riviera Maya, Puerto Vallarta, Los Cabos. Facilities for Congress and Conventions, Incentive Programs, Assistance with contracting hotels, Deluxe ground transportation services, Charity Projects, Team buildings, Multilingual staff, Customized activities, Theme events.
MEETING INCENTIVE E X P E RT S
G RU P O I N C E N T I VO S TERRAMAR DMC
Cancun-Riviera Maya, Los Cabos, Puerto Vallarta.
www.terramardestinations.com +52 (624) 142 9200
Transportation, Team Building, Excursions, Social Responsibility, Site Selection, Room gifts.
Los Cabos, Panamá. DMC, PCO, transportación, servicios terrestres, actividades, amenidades, servición de marketing e impresión.
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www.cancuncta.com +52 (998) 484 0010
www.miexperts.com +1 (312) 842 3600
All regions. Confences and convention, road shows, incentives, team,building, media production, online and on-site registratio, tours excursion, transportation, telemarketing, business travel.
C TA C A N C U N & R I V I E R A M AYA D M C
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T RO P I C A L I N C E N T I V E S G LO BA L E V E N T PA RT N E R www.tropicalincentives.com.mx +52 (998) 193 3940 +52 (998) 884 7545 Cancun, Riviera Maya, Puerto Vallarta, Riviera Nayarit, Los Cabos, Mexico City. Transportation,tours, excursions and activities, theme parties, shows and performances, exclusive venues, fun and motivation, graphic design, gifts, communication and audiovisual eqipment, support team, team buildings and community projects.
C O N D O R V E R D E T R AV E L www.condorverdetravel.com +52 (55) 5524 7317 +52 (55) 5524 7700 All regions. Analysis of Needs, Budget Analysis, Creativity, Planning, Site Inspections, Logistics, Marketing, Communication Management, Hotel Accommodations, Air & Ground Transport, VIP Management, Mobil Registrations and Web Services, Technical Supply, Food & Entertainment Management, Give Aways, On-Side Program, Team Building Activities, Foto & Video Service.
K E T Z A LTO U R www.ketzaltour.travel +52 (55) 5553 4242 All Regions. Hotels, Transportation, Guides, Tours, MeetingsRooms.
KO M E X TO U R S / G RU P O ROYA L E www.gruporoyale.com +52 (55) 5615 8741 Cancún/Riviera Maya, Cozumel, Mérida, Acapulco, Pto. Vallarta, Los Cabos, México, DF. Conventions, congresses: Transportation, Excursions, Events, Logistics.
VIAJES MEXICO C O N A M I S TA D www.viajesmeca.com +52 (55) 5203 4155 All Regions. Circuits, beaches, culture, Incentives.
M E X I C O TO U R I N G BUENOS DIAS MEXICO B U S I N E S S & T R AV E L www.buenos-dias-mexico.com +52 (442) 214 4106
www.mexicotouring.com.mx +52 (55) 5212 0441 Mexico and Guatemala. Venues, Hotels, Land Services, Logistic, Exhibition Centers.
www.incoravel.com.mx +52 (55) 5514 4300 ext 136 All Regions. Ground services, cultural Tours. Special groups.
O LY M P U S TO U R S / O LY M P U S I N C E N T I V E S www.olympus-tours.com +52 (998) 881 9030 Cancun, Riviera Maya, Cozumel, Los Cabos, Puerto Vallarta, Mexico City. Meet & greet, airport transfers, tours and excursions, accommodations, special events, gala dinners, giveaways.
A L I C O TO U R S www.alico.com.mx sales2@alico.com.mx +52 (55) 5575 1745 +52 (55) 5559 3580 +52 (55) 5575 7064
V I A J E S D E GA L A www.vdegalatours.com.mx www.skihouse.com.mx promo@vdegalatours.com.mx +52 (55) 5250 4201 Cuvier 101, Col. Anzures CP 11590
Queretaro Tailor-made individual travel for FITs and Business clients to nearly all parts and destinations of Mexico. We offer travel packages, organized tour modules, specialized tours, incentives, daytrips and rental car travel. The tours include the planning and organization of overnight stays, transfers & tours.
J U L I ATO U R S I N C OT R AV E L MÉXICO
Ciudad de México, MEXICO
M E XC E L L E N C E T R AV E L www.mexcellence.com.mx +52 (55) 5533 7223 All Regions. Transfers/Transportation, Accommodation, Venues, Events, Catering, Translations, add ons for leisure/culture etc., guides and more.
GO MEXICO G RO U P S & I N C E N T I V E S
E N C U E N T RO T www.congressandtours.com estelaflores@encuentro.com.mx +52 (55) 5096 7750 +52 (55) 5521 6422 Cel. +521 (55) 2859 5637 Bruno Traven 166 Jacarandas 702 Col. General Anaya Del. Benito Juárez C.P. 03340 Mexico City
+52 (55) 636 4386 All Regions. Personalized meet and greet, transportation, luggage handinling, venue selection, creative incentives, special programs, event coordination, theme parties, team-bulding, spouse programs, video photography services, gold and spa, original itineraries.
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AT A GLANCE CURRENCIES AND E XC H A N G E R AT E S
C L I M AT E A N D T I M E Z O N E S Summer and winter timetables
A I R P O RT S A N D E N T RY REQUIREMENTS
In Mexico, any tourist can obtain Mexican Pesos in the following places:
In Mexico there are three-time zones: The Northwest, Pacific and Center. Between the first and second there is an hour of difference and between the second and third is also an hour apart. From the first Sunday of April to the last Sunday of October, summer time is used in most of the country, which seeks to take advantage of the sunlight in the afternoon and save electricity. At this time, the clocks are delayed by one hour. Sonora is the only state in Mexico where the schedule change is NOT applicable.
- British/Schengen nationals must present a valid passport at the time of the intended date of entry to Mexico. - British/Schengen nationals wishing to travel to Mexico on holidays, are exempted of visa and can be allowed to stay in the country up to 180 days. - At the port of entry, the immigration authorities may request additional information such as main destination, hotel accommodation, return ticket, proof of financial means (international credit cards, debit cards or traveller’s cheques).
W E AT H E R
ht tp://serviciosconsulares.sre. gob.mx/images/stories/dgsc/pdf/ visasordinarios.pdf
Bureau de Change: you will usually find bureau de change offices at international airports throughout Mexico; you can identify them by the “change” announcement. You will need to show your passport to exchange the money. The exchange rate is usually shown as “buy”, which indicates how many Mexican Pesos you should receive for each British Pound or other European currency. Banks: not all banks provide the service of exchanges of Mexican Pesos and British Pounds or European currencies, some require you to have an account with them. Check in your hotel, so that you are told which is the nearest bank that serves tourists to exchange money. Here you will also need a valid passport to make the exchange. ATM: One of the most comfortable ways to buy Mexican Pesos is to use an ATM. You will often receive better exchange rates, although you will have to pay a commission for the service, as with most ATMs outside your banking network. Please do not accept help from people outside the bank. Credit Card: If you have a credit card, you will realize that this provides one of the best exchange rates. Although you will not receive Mexican Pesos directly, your monthly balance will reflect the exchange rate you received when shopping with your credit card.
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When planning your trip, we recommend you to know the weather of the state that you will visit, in order to pack the right clothes. Many travelers assume that the weather in Mexico is always warm; However, the reality is that it can vary greatly from one destination to another. The climate in Mexico is as varied as its orography: there are tropical forests, arid deserts, fertile valleys and snowy mountains. The coasts are usually hot throughout the year, although in some months it rains a lot. In Mexico City the climate is quite pleasant; neither too hot nor too cold. In the central plateau the climate is cool, as in the mountainous areas. In some northern states, such as Monterrey and Chihuahua, it is very hot in the summer season and extreme cold in the winter. Before traveling to the Mexican seaside, make sure it is not a hurricane season.
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N OT E : Visitors must obtain a landing card (FMM form) from the airline or at any port of entry in Mexico and complete this form with his/her individual information. The immigration officer will stamp the FMM card upon arrival. Please keep it in a safe place and do not lose it. You will be asked for this document at your departure from mexico The Mexican migratory authorities have the faculty to grant or deny the entry into Mexico if the visitor does not fully comply with the migratory regulations.
According to Mexican Immigration Law, British/Schengen nationals who are going to undertake the following Activities Non Remunerated in Mexico for less than six months are exempt of Visa: the beginning or execution of an investment project; to perform professional practices; filming; voluntary work; internship; to give technical or professional advice to public or private institutions; research projects; lectures; studies; attending conferences; business meetings; courses or training of staff; to perform an audit; repair or install machinery and software; to de-
P U B L I S H E D BY. . . This magazine is published by Pelusa Create. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form in whole or part without the written permission of the publisher. We would like to thank the following photographers: Yibran Aragon Nature
Photography, Visit Los Cabos, Ricardo Espinosa. Liability: while every care has been taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers can’t be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. Any artwork will be at owner’s risk.
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sign or start the operation of a plant agreed previously on contracts; or to give services agreed on transfer’s contracts of technology, patents or marks. Simply they must fill in a FMM migration form (landing card) obtained on the airplane or at the port of entry in Mexico and declare the purpose of their visit. When the visitor has been invited by a Mexican company/Institution to perform Lucrative Activities, the Mexican company/institution must request the work permit at the National Migration Institute in Mexico www.inm.gob.mx.
pelusacreate Email: info@pelusa.co.uk Telephone: 020 8123 9545 Publishing: Ben David ben@pelusa.co.uk Web: www.pelusacreate.co.uk
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