EUROPE’S ON
Fly from Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport to Germany and beyond.
THE HORIZON.
Uplands Foundation Phase meet the head of department
Claudia McCarthy, Head of the Foundation phase, exudes the caring and gentle persona that has made Uplands Preparatory School famous since 1928. An integral part of the school’s staff, she talks to us about her dreams for the school and love for all things Uplands.
Hailing from Johannesburg, Claudia enjoyed traditional schooling at St Katherine’s, Kingsmead and later completed her tertiary education at the University of Witwatersrand. She was referred to the school by the legendary Frances Hyson, who recognised that special quality in Claudia and lost no time in facilitating an interview.
Her eight years at the school have been filled with wonderful successes and achievements. “The foundation years form the basis of academic progress and allow three years for a child to absorb and master the basics,” she explains. “This is part of the reason I love teaching these age groups so much. At Uplands, our philosophy is to promote fun-based learning, which slowly allows the children to build their self-esteem successfully before ensuring all the foundations are in place.”
The relaxed and nurturing introduction to Grade 1 introduces the children to sports, cultural programmes, and academic concepts. Thinking skills and Inquiry-Based learning are at the centre of all teaching in the Foundation Phase. Claudia is truly a team player; she regards relationships as the basis of the Uplands journey, for the parents, staff and children equally. Her open door and effortless, approachable leadership style allows every parent and child to be heard.
Claudia is married to the School’s very own Ryan McCarthy, who has been integral to the Preparatory school’s sporting department for many years. Theirs was a love match based on shared values and true passion for making a difference in the Uplands community. She speaks of the highlights of the school calendar as the sporting events, adventure days, and excursions to the Kruger. The introduction of lessons in conservation resonates deeply with her, where skills are taught during grades 1 and 2 and, by grade 3 become a part of the curriculum. The Foundation Phase’s major production, which is such a popular event for parents, grandparents and indeed the whole Uplands family, is one of her favourite events.
The link to the bush and wildlife is quite understandable, considering Claudia’s hospitality background working within luxury safari lodges in some private game reserves. Her unassuming and warm character shines brightly and draws everyone around her to embrace the Uplands story. Claudia McCarthy is a living advertisement for Uplands, the epitome of grace and charm.
|admissions@uplands.co.za, www.uplands.co.za
“The foundation years form the basis of academic progress and allow three years for a child to absorb and master the basics.”
Welcome to our final edition of 2022
My memories of road trips include stopping at designated picnic stops on the side of the road and my dad braaiing up a roadside breakfast of all breakfasts on a disposable aluminium braai. When we got older (and cooler), these were replaced by Wimpy brekkies – still a firm family favourite. We mastered the art of ‘I Spy’, and there was always ice cream for the first person who saw the sea.
Everyone has a travel story, and I hope you create new stories, adventures and memories as you visit all the places in our annual Retreat guide. Places to sleep, eat, visit and play, all in the Lowveld. And Muse is the
perfect travel accessory – discover Michelin-star SA chefs, why SA brandy is world-best, go road-tripping in the Swartland, embark on a Plett/Knysna migration, be wowed by some epic photography and architecture or find some excellent reads.
‘Tis also the season for celebrations. As Christmas trees surround us and those damn Boney M or Michael Bublé lyrics haunt us as we hum along, it’s quite clear that the holidays are upon us. And thank goodness, as most of us breathe a collective sigh of relief in anticipation of long, lazy days ahead.
Whether you are staying local or going further afield, we wish you a wonderful festive season and a great New Year. Happy travels and adventures. NM
Jack Kerouac, On the Road
Editor: Nicky McArthur, 076 952 7761, nicky@macmediagroup.co.za Sales: Audrey Ford Duimelaar, 072 726 4660, audrey@macmediagroup.co.za, musemagazine@macmediagroup.co.za Journalists: Carrie Hampton, Mart-Marie du Toit, Clifford Roberts, Trevor Crighton Editing: Anne Schauffer Digital: MPDPS Design: Creative Union Cover Image: Kris Rossouw Publisher: MacMedia
A luxurious seafront retreat for your next family holiday
Conveniently situated on the Kwa-Zulu Natal South Coast, the six-sleeper, Penthouse at Stirling, makes for an idyllic and memorable summer holiday.
Walk along the blue flag beach, fish, swim, surf, relax on the beach or at the pool and spot whales and dolphins from the comfort of the penthouse balcony.
Find out more and book at www.penthouse-at-stirling.co.za
“Nothing behind me, everything ahead of me, as is ever so on the road”
DESIGN YOUR OWN STORY
#STORYTELLING x WEYLANDTS
DESIGN YOUR OWN STORY
#STORYTELLING x WEYLANDTS
Weylandts is more than just furniture. It is home to stories that are crafted, reimagined and shared. Our storytelling reflects on the environments that shape us: people who inspire us, places where we belong and pieces we live with, layered with memories.
Chris Weylandt’s story starts with an iconic chair. Where does yours begin?
Weylandts is more than just furniture. It is home to stories that are crafted, reimagined and shared. Our storytelling reflects on the environments that shape us: people who inspire us, places where we belong and pieces we live with, layered with memories.
Chris Weylandt’s story starts with an iconic chair. Where does yours begin?
A sculptural feast in a Garden Route beach house & discover a new Lowveld design duo
INVESTMENT OPPORTUNITY
In the heart of Mbombela’s fastest-growing precinct, surrounded by indigenous nature, Green Valley Estate gives buyers and investors a fantastic opportunity to invest in a “green” and modern estate. With “green” building techniques and amenities, such as our centralised bulk gas system, our estate prioritises the contemporary approach to eco-friendly living with the urban convenience of being within the Riverside Precinct – an ideal investment opportunity for all.
Green Valley Estate will offer seven-unit options, starting with one bedroom / one bathroom to three bedrooms / two bathrooms. Each unit will be fitted with modern quality features and fittings as standard, with the option of additional extras to customise to suit your dream. Part of the estate will be dedicated to running and
educational, indigenous plant walking trails, secluded braai spots, a fitness park, a jungle gym, and a few bird hides near a new irrigation dam where all nature lovers can appreciate the beautiful place we call home. A swimming pool, clubhouse and communal braai area will be added during Phase 2 of the development.
Professional architect Gerhard Jooste has been designing buildings in Mbombela since 1996. His considerable design experience in the sectors of estate, luxury residential, commercial, hospitality, and townhouse complexes, means he brings a wealth of knowledge and skills to the design of Green Valley Estate.
Our favourite beauty, style, tech, décor, homeware, wellness and kid’s stuff.
The VAS Wood Diffuser is a Japanese creation handcrafted from the Hinoki cypress tree, which gives you a natural oil diffuser. Drop your favourite essential oil onto the wood and it will be absorbed immediately and diffuse the aroma for around six hours. Shop byvorda.com
This Mesh Door Cabinet is our perfect drinks cabinet for holiday festivities. G&T anyone? Shop ecofurnituredesign.com
need it’s a
First designed in 1953, the Tripod Floor Lamp boasts clean minimalism, simple lines and curved chic. R23 127, shop cremadesign.com
High Tea with Elephants is a safari shop and interiors studio located in the Lowveld hub town of Hoedspruit. The studio offers a variety of services from interior design and industry procurement to setting and maintaining operational standards. The team is made up of industry professionals with over 50 years of combined experience, but at the heart of it, they are avid bush lovers with a passion for African design and love for our beautiful continent. Design philosophy = Celebrating African design through the art of safari. “We believe in creating beautiful, timeless spaces in unexpected wild places.” Pop in – Shop 22, Kamogelo Tourism Centre Hoedspruit, Limpopo. info@highteawithelephants.com
HOT OR NOT?
The rustic style is all about creating textures that add interest and highlight your space’s raw, natural beauty. If you’re wondering whether modern and rustic work well together, look no further than Cielo’s contemporary furniture pairings to see that opposites attract. The elegant Portman Cruz dining set is the epitome of modern rustic, filling your home with warmth and authenticity while adding industrial undertones to create the quintessential look of this year. Cielo.co.za, IG@cielo_lifestyle, FB@CieloLifestyle
food is medicine
with Dr Rav
Dr, everyone does it!”
If you are someone who drinks, on average, 1 to 2 units of alcohol per day (or 7 to 14 units of alcohol per week) – then what could I say, in my capacity as a healthspan-focused Functional Medicine doctor, to make you think about that?
First, I’d say I’m not here to judge. There have been times in my life when my average has been similar, and my thought process was, “This is what we humans do, right?”
Second, I’d own up and say that I have used alcohol to take the edge off before (I remember that glass of wine in the evenings in the months after my father’s death…). I’m human too.
Third, I would share that I’ve taken a deep dive into the science over the last two years, and I’ve come to understand that alcohol is far worse than I perceived it to be. It’s a poison (fact!) and chronic alcohol intake, even low intake, leads to neurodegeneration.
Given my own ignorance for most of my life, it’s not surprising that I am finding the following in my medical practice: Most chronic drinkers (7 – 14 units of alcohol per week) aren’t connecting their overall feeling of increased stress and anxiety with their alcohol intake. Here’s how I explain the science: Alcohol interferes with a person’s stress resilience. Baseline cortisol (stress hormone) becomes elevated, and more stress and anxiety are felt in between drinking. Typically, a person chases this feeling away by reaching for a drink at the end of the day to “wind down”.
Can you see the cycle?
When the culture is so strong AND we’re in a cycle, it’s not easy to make changes. I tell my patients this: Be clear on why you want to make the change and then ask yourself what support and information you need.
With summer comes sweat and breakouts. Lamelle Clarity Mask is a earth clay mask that targets all ages’ main causes of acne. R380, lamelle.co.za
Keep stress at bay with Young Living’s Stress Away® Essential Oil Roll-On. The soothing blend of vanilla, lime, and other essential oils is the perfect on-the-go natural stressbuster solution. Available from pharmacies and wellness shops.
Kiko Vitals is a new SA female-focused hormone balance brand. In essence, if your gut is unhealthy, you’ll likely suffer from mood swings, anxiety, lack of concentration and depression. Try Kiko Vitals Debloat + Gut Glow – targets a bloated tummy, aids absorption and ensures microbiome health. Plus, we love that it’s vegan, gluten-free and GMO-free, with 100% recyclable packaging. Shop kikovitals.com
”But
Baocare’s Radiance is a great new skincare addition. Made from baobab & jojoba oil, pomegranate, vitamin E, ylang-ylang, rosemary and lavender, it smoothes, softens and plumps. Completely natural, just spray directly onto skin. From R49 (10ml), shop Baocare.co.za, Faithful-to-nature.co.za, Takealot.com and Van Heerdens Pharmacy.
We have to introduce you to Burt’s Bees. These products are so lovely, we can’t even choose a favourite. It could be the mango lip balm, the pretty tinted lip balms, or maybe the Almond and Milk Hand Cream, a little pot of delectableness. Find out for yourself – shop burtsbees.com
Elixir Fusion is another local-islekker product containing active plant-based ingredients and essential oils. And they make special products for men – try Daily Defence for Men – a light vegetable-based day cream with SPF, which also smells delish. R230, shop elixirfusion.co.za
Transformational
To get a life-changing smile of exceptional quality, it’s all about choosing a dentist that follows the 5 Smile Makeover standards of excellence. Every industry has standards; Dr Cobus Verster believes it should be the same for Smile Makeovers. Especially since we are a certified DSD (Digital Smile Design) clinic, only the second one in SA! Don’t confuse a Smile Makeover with a Hollywood smile, rather see it as a confident and natural looking smile. A truly great Smile Makeover looks great; is long lasting; functions well and makes you feel confident.
5 Standards for a Smile Makeover
1. Digitization – (Better quality information) Every treatment starts with gathering your dental information with advanced technology down to the last detail.
2. 3D Facial Design – (Harmonising smiles with faces) We design your smile in 3D and in harmony with your facial features to create a naturally balanced custom-made smile design.
3. Digital Treatment Planning – (Better decision making) We work with DSD experts from Madrid to make the best decisions to deliver the highest standards of treatment to you.
4. Trial Smile – (YOU test and approve) Because we really want to understand what you desire – see, feel and approve your smile design before any treatment begins.
5. Guided Digital Dentistry – (Your customised treatment) Using specialised digitally printing tools, we deliver your custom-made treatment with precision, so you get the results you approved. These standards reflect our commitment to you at Transformational Dentistry, so you can feel confident in your decision to get a life-changing smile. Book your appointment now.
FB@Transformational Dentistry
IG@transformationaldentistry
So where can you get the best quality
ADIDAS has joined forces with SA fashion designer Thebe Magugu with a collection of training, yoga, and lifestyle garments inspired by Africa with a gorgeous bird of Paradise print. Shop adidas.co.za
You may have spotted Muse on the go in the new range of Case Closed covers. We just adore them. Besides being uber pretty, they are reusable, keep your suitcase and contents protected, are light and resilient, are environmentally friendlier than plastic wraps and very importantly, make finding your bag on that airport carousal very easy. Choose from a variety of fabulous colours and designs and different fits. From R199, shop caseclosed.co.za
read it’s a great new books for kids
There’s much excitement as the new Wimpy Kid has just come out! Diper Overlode – Greg and Rodrick hit the road with Greg’s teenage brother’s band – Loded Diper, so anything is possible. R170, Penguin Random House.
SpaceBoy by David Walliams has also just landed. A UFO crash-lands in Ruth’s cornfield. She dashes off to help, but what will she find? R255, Jonathan Ball Publishers.
A cool new read for kids is The Crystal Chronicles. There are three books, which follow the adventures of Jack and sister Lily. Powerful crystals, crocodile-invested rivers, magical forests, space travel, mutant hyenas, and underwater adventures will have kids begging for more. R170, Penguin Random House.
muse best book quote
Where the Crawdads Sing by Delia Owens: Re-released to coincide with the movie; if you missed it, grab a copy today. A heartbreakingly beautiful story about a young girl who lives alone in the marshes of the deep south and becomes the suspect in a murder. It is pure prose and evokes such strong imagery it will have you thinking about it long after the last page. R220, Jonathan Ball Publishers
The Bay by Allie Reynolds: This is Point Break meets Blue Crush and brings the much-loved sport of surfing to the fore. The bay is a special surf spot discovered by a group of young friends who want to keep it a secret. But when people start going missing – the question must be raised. Is it worth dying for? R355, Jonathan Ball Publishers.
Who’s Lying Now? by Susan Lewis: Everyone’s favourite detective Andee Lawrence is back in Kesterley-on-Sea to investigate the disappearance of an award-winning publisher in town for lockdown. You will love the characters, even the bad ones, in this easy-toread mystery. R330, Jonathan Ball Publishers.
Two Nights in Lisbon by Chris Pavone: We finished this book in two days. It is slow to start but give it a chance because it will drag you in and keep you under as you live with Ariel Price through five torturous days. Ariel’s husband goes missing in Lisbon. With questions flying from police, the embassy, and hotel security – she quickly realises she didn’t know him at all. Suspenseful till the very end. R345, Jonathan Ball Publishers.
thrillercentral
there is some good in this world and it’s worth fighting for.
J.R.R. Tolkien – The Two Towers
chicklit
Skip To The End by Molly James: Every now and again, it’s lovely to indulge in some fab chick lit, and this is perfect. Amy and all the females in her family are blessed or cursed with a particular vision; as soon as they kiss someone, they know in intimate detail how the relationship will end, which is not conducive to finding The One. Nevertheless, it will make you laugh and cry simultaneously. A joyful ride. R355, Jonathan Ball Publishers.
An Island Wedding by Jenny Colgan: Three couples. One outlandish wedding. Can everyone get their happy ending? In true Colgan style, a heartwarming tale of love and friendship and brimming with humour. R355, Jonathan Ball Publishers.
Christmas Treats by Guillaume Marinette: 50 charming, sweet recipes. From fir tree cupcakes and jam shortbread bauble biscuits good enough for the tree to Saint Nicks’ walking sticks and honey reindeer biscuits, so much fun and deliciousness
between these pages. R225, Jonathan Ball Publishers.
Sisters of the Circus by Laila Manack: Twin sisters Kahina and Noor are kidnapped at the age of four and sold to a circus. Now 21, they dream of escaping their life as trapeze artists and the abusive circus ring leader, but at what cost? R290, Penguin Random House.
recipetime
stockingfillers
The Challenge, Danielle Steele: Pan Macmillan
Dreamland, Nicholas Sparks: Jonathan Ball Publishers.
The Bourne Sacrifice, Robert Ludlum: Jonathan Ball Publishers.
Fairy Tale, Stephen King: Penguin Random House Next in Line, Jeffrey Archer: Jonathan Ball Publishers.
The Pride, Tony Park: Pan Macmillan Desk Yoga Deck: Jonathan Ball Publishers.
OPEN SEASON
The front of the house sports 180-degree views of the bay, but it faces east and the prevailing southeasterly wind can make outdoor living uncomfortable. The solution? Dividing the facade into two: a veranda sits alongside a spacious indoor viewing area enclosed by a contemporary bay window.
Built over three cleverly stepped levels, this holiday home on South Africa’s pristine Garden Route combines sculptural architecture with simple, pared-back interiors.
tThe dwelling responds to its location superbly well: it is situated in Buffelsbaai (Buffalo Bay), a tiny holiday village on the coast of South Africa’s beautiful Garden Route. Surrounded by a conservation park, with its shoreline a marine protection area, the wide curve of the bay hugs a pristine beach that is a major attraction during the summer months, when this tiny enclave – there are just 200 or so houses, on small stands –swells enormously in population size as holidaymakers converge on the area.
The typical building style here is a version of American clapboard. This new home, however, does something very different. Both client and architect Guillaume Pienaar, know the area intimately. The client had spent many holidays in the original house over many years and knew exactly what they wanted from their new home. “And I have spent time at this beach surfing since childhood – I love this street,” Guillaume explains.
“The plot has an east-west axis with the beach views on the eastern side at the front, which means that outdoor living was often an unpleasant windswept experience, and the client was looking for solutions to this problem,” says Guillaume, adding that they nevertheless wanted as many spaces as possible in the house to have a view of the ocean. Finally, the brief included five en suite bedrooms, a sizeable garageworkshop-storage area required to house vehicles and trailers, and solar power storage equipment.
In designing this holiday home on a narrow, sea-facing plot, architect Guillaume Pienaar employed stepped levels to give the structure a sculptural aspect, against the milkwood forest.
At the centre of the house is a courtyard atrium, which allows light and air into its internal spaces, and allows its occupants to keep all the interior doors open, day and night. This protected outdoor space is also much-used on windy days during the summer months.
“To fulfil this multidimensional brief on the narrow site,” says Guillaume, “scale was of the utmost importance from day one to prevent the building from seeming out of proportion in its modest locale.” Also, key was his sense of the necessary connection between the sea and the indigenous milkwood forest directly behind the plot. It was essential, Guillaume felt, to “push the house as far back from the street into the indigenous milkwood forest and the sloped site as possible.” He adds that following the build, “A collaboration with a local horticulturalist allowed us to plant further coastal thicket plants and milkwoods, with the aim of re-establishing the vegetation around the house, and between it and the public realm.” In essence, the house will gradually disappear into the rejuvenated natural forest.
Additionally, to keep the scale of the home under control, given its beach-village context, the building has a minimum of 2400mm ceiling height throughout, with roof parapet walls omitted and stepped massing used to mimic the site’s natural topography. The facade is raised above the garaging, immediately generating a level of privacy from the public beach and is split between a patio area and a large, angled bay window. This picture window “allows for a 180-degree view of the shoreline from right inside the house,” says Guillaume. “It creates a very successful space internally that is perfect for use all year round and in every kind of weather.”
With public spaces at the front and degrees of privacy and silence increasing towards the rear, plus a large garage and storage space tucked underneath the living area, the house is built over three levels and is noteworthy for its sculptural and striking detailing.
At the home’s centre is an internal courtyard atrium, which allows its occupants to keep all the interior doors open (day and night), enabling the building to naturally ventilate. The courtyard space is also beneficial on days when the wind from the sea is particularly strong. Throughout all the interiors, a restricted materials and colour palette results in a marvellously pared-back aesthetic and keeps seaside maintenance to a minimum. “I love leaving building materials as close to their original state as possible,” says Guillaume. “We used offshutter concrete to create a textured feel and allow the owner the least amount of maintenance on the building,
The top-floor bedroom is simple but offers spectacular views and leads out onto a spacious roof deck.
1&2) The dining table was designed by Guillaume to suit the space and be able to accommodate all 10 occupants of the house. Constructed from hardwood with a Fenix NTM top, the table is surrounded by lightweight APC chairs by Jasper Morrison for Vitra (vitra.com), and the entire dining suite can easily be moved, so can be used in a number of places around the home.
while the warmth of the wood used for doors and windows is an ideal contrast.”
Likewise, the interior-design choices have been kept resolutely minimal and practical while meeting the requirements of holiday comfort. Custom-designed decor elements such as the built-in lounge seating; a round table created especially for card games or puzzle building; and a 10-seater dining table – combine with items that are either effectively fixed in place or easily moveable, as best suits their function and situation.
The lighting design is another strong point. Explains Guillaume, “I prefer to limit the use of expensive imported lighting – you can use an everyday fitting, but design around it to give it a bit more substance.” For example, he asked the building contractor to use curved plastic salad bowls to create the concrete formwork for simple round glass wall lights: the resulting smooth, reflective, integrated concrete indentations in the walls might house very basic fittings, but the lights as a whole have a luxe, contemporary feel.
Combining a resolute commitment to architecture that respects its context with clever detailing and minimalist interiors, this house already has the air of a building that will become a landmark of the area. Its overall form is, as Guillaume says, rather reminiscent “of an old Land-Rover: very rugged and ‘boxy’, but functional”. And just as in that classic piece of design, here, the air of honest practicality is overlaid with a simple and genuine charm.
5&10) Due to the very linear nature of the indoor living space, built-in lounge seating was the obvious choice, and was designed by Guillaume, to allow for afternoon naps and reading. He also designed the round table especially for card games, puzzle building and so on. The table is illuminated by an ultra-simple pendant light fitting from Hoi P’loy (hoiploy.com), and the wooden spindle-backed J77 chair is by Folke Pålsson for HAY (hay.dk).
6) Very much in keeping with the pared-back and marine-inspired feel of the house is the front gate, which fastens with a simple loop of rope.
7) “I love that you can ‘sculpt’ with wood by using timber frames and panels of various thicknesses,” says Guillaume. This custom-designed screen at the rear of the house filters natural light into the wide passageway.
8) The bathrooms are also a study in elegant minimalism, with mosaic tiles covering walls and floors combined with pared-back tapware and accessories.
9) The sea-facing veranda at the front of the house is the ideal spot from which to enjoy panoramic beach views on wind-free days. Guillaume designed the weather-proof concrete outdoor chairs to be permanent fixtures, eliminating the need for carrying outdoor furniture in and out of the house.
11) At the centre of the house is a courtyard atrium.
12&14) Designated as Guillaume’s own favourite space in the house is the bay window area on the facade, which he describes as “an intimate space for summer and winter use”. Perfect for rainy days, drinking morning coffee, quiet time and reading. It is furnished with locally manufactured timber lounge chairs by Fechters (fechters.co.za).
13) The marine-inspired timber and rope balustrading had to be installed by Guillaume himself over many days as he wasn’t able to find a contractor to perfectly execute his design.
PLAYING WITH EARTH
Harem Living is the design team behind many of the beautiful lodges and private homes you see draped across glossy coffee table books. Its namesake and creator, Harem is originally from the Lowveld but has had love affairs with Lamu island, Kenya and further afield. During lockdown, the gentle artist, who was named after his grandfather (and once wished his parents had given him a regular name), found himself back in the bush working on a client’s holiday home.
It’s here he met local Jack Fillery, owner of the lodge Tomjachu Bush Retreat. Jack also has a passion for the design and curation of beautiful spaces. The two found themselves on the same project and quickly realised that they made an excellent team.
It is an interesting dynamic. The quiet gypsy with a passion for East Africa and the English ex-pat who has made the South African bush his home. The two are
hcomfortable together, like they have known each other for years. Bound together by a working friendship.
“It’s interesting for us to work together because Harem is a lone rider and I have been working autonomously on the farm for many years. Before that, I was a freelance photographer. So, I don’t like answering to anyone. But now we are working together, figuring out our roles in this partnership.”
“We call each other boss,” interjects Harem, which sets them both off laughing. “We just clicked! We make good wingmen for each other.”
Two men from more different backgrounds you couldn’t find. Still, with a shared passion for design and beautiful spaces, collaboration was a must. The two now work together under the label, Harem Living, creating exquisite interior environments. But what really excites them
is the recent integration of ceramics into their already artistically proficient world.
“I was introduced to Antjie Newton a few years ago and regularly attend her pottery classes,” explains Jack. “When Harem and I found ourselves with a pause in-between projects, he asked me to bring him some clay.”
Harem was in love with it from day one. “I have been a career artist for 32 years, mostly using oil on canvas, but I was hooked when I first started playing with clay.”
Immediately Harem and Jack created a studio space that keeps expanding. Here they could sculpt, build, coil and throw to their heart’s content. And the result? Magic.
Their creations are unique explorations of the natural world, from fauna and flora to people, organic, wild and free from censorship.
“I was literally catapulted from playing with my first bag of clay into having a studio. It was getting too messy; we needed more space. And then, of course, we needed a kiln!” smiles Harem.
Jack laughs. “We made all this stuff and had nowhere to fire it. Antje stepped in and gifted us her old kiln. She has been amazing and incredibly generous with her time and knowledge.”
Harem and Jack share the space, sometimes working together – ‘a grand collusion’, they call it, sharing the narrative, or sometimes independently of each other
“We just clicked! We make good wingmen for each other.”Jack and Harem inside their growing studio.
and at different times. “We like to create unique things, once-off works of art for the spaces we help to create,” says Jack. “Clay is so physical, yet it can express your mood immediately. It’s an amazing product to harness. You have fun creating something out of nothing, and the end product always surprises.”
Ceramics is a popular art form in SA, and the Lowveld is full of ceramic stalwarts. “These pioneers, if you will, have always supported us. Right now, SA and the world are experiencing a resurgence of ceramics. More artists are trying it and breaking the mould of traditional ceramic making,” explains Harem. “But we don’t call ourselves ceramic artists; we are sculptors. We don’t want to pigeonhole ourselves.”
“It is amazing to work with the raw earth. But there are also no guarantees with clay,” shrugs Jack. “Anything can go wrong in the kiln. And sometimes it goes wrong, and that’s 20-30 hours of work down the drain. But when it does come right, it is amazing.”
“We want to create in all different mediums. Right now, it’s clay, but we are full of ideas for mixed mediums. Who knows where it will go. It has exploded. We have to kiln up!”
Discover Harem Living objets d’art at The Trov in Joburg, OKHA in Cape Town.
Fantastic feast items to light up your life
How cool is the Vagnbys Northern Light LED Light Carafe? The 900ml carafe is made of frosted glass and has an LED light that creates a magical atmosphere inside and out. Shop yuppiechef.com
win
ABSOLUTELY delicious. Staying sober has never tasted this good. Shop musgravespirits.com
Try for yourself! Send your name, address & number to musemagazine@macmediagroup.co.za and put ‘Inspirit’ in the subject box. Don’t forget to follow @musemagazines. Closing date 31 January 2023. Ts&Cs apply.
Designer camping? The Folding Kettle for travel comes in a flat-pack design that, when open, expands its volume to stand vertically and holds 1,2litres. c60design.com
Don’t get hangry! Keep Grumpy Snacks in your bag at all times, and keep grumpy hungry pangs at bay. The Grumpy Snacks range provides healthy alternatives to satisfy your snacking cravings. Shop faithful-to-nature.co.za
Everyone’s favourite White River coffee takeaway spot, Bushbucks, now has its own range of cups, and you want one! WIN a Travel Mug, a selection of homemade Morofresh Sauces and Unna Coffee 1kg valued at R700. Send your name, address & number to musemagazine@macmediagroup.co.za and put ‘Morofresh’ in subject box. Follow @musemagazinesa. Closing date 31 January 2023. Ts&Cs apply. Shop www.morofresh.co.za
SA BRANDY TRUMPS ALL
South Africa’s world-class local brandies deserve more attention within our own borders. And as the party season approaches, we take a closer look at these award-winning tipples.
Words Trevor CrightonSouth Africa has many global success stories – think athletes like the Springboks, Banyana Banyana, Chad le Clos, Caster Semenya and Wayde van Niekerk; our actors and performers – ‘onse Charlize’ and Trevor Noah – and our innovative products, like the CAT scan machine and the Kreepy Krawly. All of these are icons of our country that are lauded not just by our own proud people but recognised as leaders by millions more around the world.
South African brandy deserves the same recognition, particularly in our own country. However, while global audiences continue to recognise the superiority of South African brandy over similar products from other countries – including France’s Cognac – the spirit receives nowhere near the same plaudits within our borders.
Best in class
“Our brandies can stand proudly against any brandy in the world,” says SA Brandy Foundation Director Christelle Reade-Jahn.
s“For the last 350 years, we have produced wonderful brandies and continue to use the best quality base wine – mostly sourced from Chenin Blanc and Colombard. Our double-distillation in copper pots ensures a smooth spirit that is then matured for between three and 30 years in French oak barrels. Our brandy masters are world-class and have been winning global awards for the past 20 years,” she says.
“Where we are falling short is that the South African public has not been sufficiently educated in the difference between potstill brandy – to be consumed neat like malt whisky – vs blended brandy, which has been designed to enjoy with a mixer or in a cocktail”.
The SA Brandy Foundation is on a mission to change that – and is slowly making inroads.
Awards for everyone
This year the International Spirits Challenge (ISC) named KWV Brandy’s Héritage XO as ‘Best Cognac’ and awarded KWV 15
the trophy for ‘Best Brandy’ –while KWV itself was named ‘Best Producer’ overall. In addition, Van Ryn’s 20-year-old potstill brandy was awarded ‘World’s Best Wine Brandy’ at the 2022 World Brandy Awards.
This is no fluke – South African brandies are known to dominate global awards – Van Rhyn’s 15-YearOld has been awarded the Best Brandy trophy in international competitions nine times in the last decade, and it is the fourth time KWV Brandy has taken the highest award at the event.
In this year’s Veritas Wine & Spirit Awards, Van Ryn’s was named ‘Best Brandy’ – the first time for a South African potstill since the inception of the Trophy Spirits Show. And at the Michelangelo International Wine & Spirit Awards, the Top Scoring Spirit Trophy went to Joseph Barry XO.
Breaking it down for you Cognac is seen as a luxury beverage in SA – but Cognac and South African brandy are made precisely
the same way. Base wine from grapes is double-distilled in copper pot stills and then matured for a minimum of three years in oak casks before blending. The only difference is that, in the case of Cognac, every single part of the process must be completed in the Cognac region of France – in much the same way that Champagne is protected by the Madrid system under a treaty signed in 1891. That’s why the KWV Héritage XO was named Best Cognac – similar process, but simply better than what the eponymous region was able to produce for judging this year.
What are we drinking?
South Africa produces three types of brandy: potstill, blended and vintage.
To be called potstill, 100% of the brandy must have been produced from a copper pot still. Potstill brandies must have at least 38% alcohol by volume (ABV), although most export versions are at 40%.
Blended brandies consist of a
mix of potstill brandies and a neutral grape spirit and is made at a strength of 96.4%. They are intended for mixers – think brandy & coke!
Vintage brandies must consist of at least 30-80% potstill brandies and a maximum of 70% grape spirit, both of which have been aged at least eight years. Local regulations now also recognise ‘estate brandies’, which are entirely produced by small producers on the estate.
Helping hand
Brandy contributes significantly to the South African economy by being part of the massive value chain that wine contributes to the GDP. “Five litres of wine are used in distilling every one litre of brandy,” explains Reade-Jahn. “The brandy industry is part of the greater wine value chain – contributing about R2 billion, but also supporting the workers in that greater wine value chain.” So support the local economy – drink more South African brandy. You’ll be glad you did.
Know your brandy better now? Or still don’t know a pot still from a potluck – you are in luck – WIN a bottle of Van Ryn 12-Year-Old Single Potstill Brandy worth R540 – according to its accolades it is officially the best brandy in the world. Or win a bottle of Sydney Back Special Release 15-Year-Old worth R900.
winTo enter, send your contact details to musemagazine@ macmediagroup.co.za and put ‘Brandy’ in the subject box. Closing date is 31 January 2023. Ts&Cs apply.
A HARVEST IN OUR BACKYARD
Vendange comes to the Lowveld
The first Vendange store was opened in 2011 in the 44 Stanley precinct in Johannesburg. Now there are stores at Design Quarter, BluBird and The Firs in Rosebank, as well as Plett, Knysna, Hermanus, Franschhoek, and Table Bay.
Richard Davis has bought his chic style and homeware offering to White River. We chat with him about this exciting new venture and get some festive shopping tips.
What does Vendange mean?
Vendange is a French word meaning the beginning of the harvest festival that celebrates the grape harvest. Our initial range of boards were made from recycled wine barrels – hence the French name.
How did it all begin?
We started a wholesale business manufacturing these boards. We had them in several stores but found the process frustrating. But then, we were offered an opportunity to open our own store; the rest is history.
What’s on offer?
We stock a wide range of baskets, glassware, ceramics, boards, aprons, scatter cushions and general gifting. We have almost 3500 items listed, so if you need a special wedding, birthday or Christmas gift, pop in. We stock many things under the R500 range, as well as ideas for special occasions.
Are you green?
Definitely. All of our cheese boards are made from recycled wood, sourced from local wineries.
What makes Vendange stand out?
We have a diverse range, and where possible, we get exclusive rights for items. We also have private label ranges made for us – for example, our magnums of olive oil. Our apron range is also exclusive and will be a great seller for tourists as they are lightweight and easily packed.
Why White River?
We have been toying with the idea for a while; we’ve had a lot of success in non-traditional shopping centres like Casterbridge. White River has seen a massive increase in lifestyle and security estates, and many people have
semigrated to this region. Casterbridge is also great for people stopping en route to Kruger.
Can you shop online?
Our online shop has taken off, and customers get free delivery if the purchase is over R500 – www.vendange. co.za. We also run discounted promos on Instagram; follow us @VendangeRSA.
Your favourite brands?
I love the Luigi Bormioli glassware range – our giant 800ml set of 4 gin and tonic glasses is a popular seller and ideal for sipping a cool GnT around the pool this summer. The Sagaform range was one of our first items – look out for the 2-litre wine decanter with wooden stopper. Finally, we have a huge demand for the Laguiole cutlery range manufactured in France.
Xmas is around the corner – top 5 gift ideas from Vendange?
1) Barrel lid cheese board 2) Breazies swim shorts
3) Sabrage sword 4) Apron 5) Webber braai book
A popular item?
Rope door stops – we have four different styles. The mini one is only R199.95, so it is affordable.
Budget recommendation?
Our 12-bottle wine crates, R499.95 per crate. They stack easily, so you can build them as your wine collection grows.
Splurge recommendation?
Our XXXL oval champagne and wine tub made from pewter is one of my favourites, R8999.95 – they are made just outside New Delhi in India in a town called Moradabad.
What does every Xmas table need?
A celebration with family, friends and loved ones. Crank up the music, open the best wine and bubbles you can find and celebrate being together.
|Casterbridge Lifestyle Centre, vendange.co.za, |IG@VendangeRSA
DISHING UP STARS
Three South-African chefs, three Michelin-starred restaurants. We rounded up the talented trio making us proud from their kitchens abroad.
Michelin stars have become the stuff of legend, a cloak-and-dagger sort of pursuit with secret agents roaming the globe in search of exceptional taste sensations and chefs being called up in the middle of service to congratulate them on becoming part of the elite few that hold a star or two or, for the most phenomenal of them all, three.
Established in France in the 1900s by the Michelin tyre company, the Michelin Guide is a series of guidebooks encouraging people to travel. A one-star rating denotes that it boasts “high-quality cooking” and is “worth a stop” a two-star listing stands for “excellent cooking, worth a detour”, and the highest rating, three stars, “exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey”.
The Michelin Guide doesn’t operate in South Africa, so chefs who set their sights on the sparkly stars leave home soil to set up shop elsewhere in the hopes of being recognised by the mighty guide. So when Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen received his first Michelin star in 2016 for Restaurant JAN in Nice, France, South Africans could not be prouder. He was the first South African chef to earn a Michelin star. Then Jean Delport from Restaurant Interlude in West Sussex, England, and Conor Toomey from Condita in Edinburgh, Scotland, followed in his footsteps.
Earning a Michelin star takes effort, grit and stamina. Keeping one might be one of the most dedicated passions of a lifetime. It’s no easy feat, and we’ve written down their ramblings whilst they told us just how much fun they are having in their kitchens, what they love about South Africa and all their thoughts in between.
I attended Zevenwacht’s former culinary academy and the Stellenbosch Academy of Design and Photography, where I specialised in photography. Food and photography have been a dual passion of mine since I can remember. I also learnt a lot through hands-on experience working in kitchens, which is why I’m so passionate about offering internship opportunities at my restaurants now.
I was working as a chef on yachts off the Mediterranean coast when one of the families I cooked for said I should open a restaurant. The idea was always in the back of my mind anyway, but one day when we were anchored in Nice, I went for a walk through the Old Port neighbourhood and saw a sign in an abandoned motorcycle repair shop window that read Restaurant Possible in French. The rest is history.
I was absolutely blown away by the news when receiving the first Michelin star. At that point, Restaurant JAN was not even three
years old, so it was a wonderful surprise. My French wasn’t that good at the time. I got a call from someone at the Michelin Guide in the middle of service. All I could hear was “congratulations”, “Michelin star”, and “come to Paris for the ceremony”. I don’t remember what I said except, “Oui, oui, oui.” South Africa is still home, and I’m lucky to have more than one home. My family and some of my closest friends are still based in South Africa. I also have teams in both Cape Town and the Kalahari.
If I could take back only one food item from South Africa to France in the future, it would be buchu and suurvygies.
I’ve got a soft spot for Paternoster. I don’t have much time on my hands, so the short trip from Cape Town works well for me. The West Coast is just magic. And, of course, the Kalahari, home of Klein JAN. This is where I absolutely let go and explore my creativity.
Sustainability is a huge passion of mine. It means adapting your mindset to look at your daily life and see all the little changes and positive steps you can make for the
better. Small changes and efforts add up over time. At the restaurants, we are passionate about ensuring our ingredients and produce are sustainably sourced and that our practices are as sustainable as possible. For example, at Klein JAN, we constructed an underground root cellar for our fresh ingredients; at Restaurant JAN, we launched the JAN garden, where we can grow and maintain our sustainable produce. It’s all about provenance. The more you know about where your ingredients come from, the better.
I feel strongly that following your passions in life is the best way to get on the right path. I’m lucky I figured mine out when I was young, and I encourage everyone else to try and do the same. It’s never too late to follow your dreams.
I can always taste the difference if someone hasn’t used fresh and authentic ingredients. They are the building blocks of any dish, so don’t compromise on the authentic quality of your ingredients if you can.
I’ve recently been embracing a more plant-based and flexitarian lifestyle, so I always have a variety of grains, nuts, legumes, coconut oil (and coconut milk) and some good vegetable stock around. They’re great starting blocks to build around in the kitchen. I also always keep fresh farm eggs, and then naturally, you can always find some Mrs Balls Chutney and atchar from South Africa in my fridge.
I draw inspiration from many places, but visiting the markets and local vendors in Nice can be a huge help for Restaurant JAN, while Klein JAN is inspired by the amazing natural surroundings and Kalahari atmosphere. If I could invite three people to dinner, I’d ask my late dad, ouma and oupa to experience Klein JAN. They motivated and
encouraged me so much to do this project but never lived to experience the opening.
I find calmness in cleaning my copper pots. And, of course, spending time with my beautiful King Charles Cavalier Spaniel Elizabeth. Follow her on Instagram@elizabethinthefrenchriviera.
My go-to midnight snack? I’m a
sucker for ice cream.
We’re about to launch my new TV series, JAN RSVP, on VIA and Showmax, and JAN the Journal Volume 10 will be hitting shelves by December! We are in our fifth year of publishing this beautiful magazine slash coffee table book. As for what’s next? You’ll just have to wait and see. |janonline.com
My wife and I came over to the UK as a team to open up Interlude, but even though my mom is from the UK originally, our families are still in SA. Home for me is the Bloubergstrand, Table View area. I worked in the Winelands, and my wife grew up in Paarl. We still have strong ties to South Africa, and the country draws on my heartstrings.
My earliest food memory is from when I was about five or six. My dad used to grow veggies in the garden, and I remember sitting there shelling peas and eating them raw from the stalks. They were amazing, and I can still taste them today. But no one in my family was a chef or really cooked, so chef training – I also trained at Zevenwacht – was a totally new experience for me – I had no background whatsoever!
We got our Michelin star for the 2019 guide, which was a surprise as we only opened Restaurant Interlude at the end of 2018. I didn’t expect us to get it in the first year; it was something we were working towards – it was why we moved to the United Kingdom, so it was a huge surprise.
Growing up in South Africa, Michelin was always a pinnacle for me, but not a dream you could attain in our country – but you could aspire to it.
I opened a restaurant with Penny Streeter, OBE, in Somerset West, Cape Town and one day, she asked if I wanted to move to the United Kingdom. I said of course, and we literally packed up that restaurant and opened it here. When I was in Cape Town, I couldn’t really cook precisely what I wanted to cook and do the menu in the style I wanted.
But here, we have the perfect setting and 240 acres of gardens to play around in for ingredients. You couldn’t ask for a better setup.
In my heart, I’ve always wanted a Michelin star. But we’ve had to create something for what we did here and what I wanted to cook.
It was pretty surreal receiving the star, and looking back, there were some clues. An inspector came and gave me his card at the end of a meal at Interlude and said we should chat. He came back the following day to hear our story and plans for the restaurant. So I knew we were on the radar. He came about four months after we opened, and we weren’t ready. We were nowhere near the level that we are now! We might not have been ready, but it was a blessing in disguise for a new
restaurant – putting us on the map.
At Restaurant Interlude, there is no menu given when you sit down. Our surprise tasting menu varies in season and can range from 18 to 22 courses. And every dish is curated around the gardens. Each course will have something specific from the estate – harvested, foraged, collected from the chickens, deer from the estate, honey from our bees, and everything has a bit of a story to it. You receive a little card with details of where the items on your plate can be found within Leonardslee gardens, and at the end of the night, you receive a map of the gardens so you can take a walk to the exact spots where the ingredients originated. The idea is to bring the gardens to life on the plate – it’s more of a dining experience, not just dinner.
My cooking style is classical French and English, with our South African influences and heritage coming through strongly. I still have such a passion for the flavours from home, so I bring that in quite a lot.
My food philosophy is constantly adapting. I like to work with local produce as much as possible. Sustainability is important, and I love knowing the exact source of dairy, eggs, meat, etc. So I guess my goal is for the ingredients to be as sustainable, local, and true to the source as possible.
I like bold and authentic flavours and keeping it minimal on the plate. I don’t like to overwork it. Making the produce shine rather than overloading it with extra stuff is what we do best here.
We interpret food fads and trends to suit our restaurant style. But we
have to stay current, so we’ll try to take pieces of a new trend, and if it works for us, we’ll adapt it to our style, not just follow it blindly.
Our immediate goal now is to earn two Michelin stars. So gearing up and pushing out for that is now a priority. We’re nearly there with the food and the service – we’ve worked really hard! We’ve also now got a team from South Africa. I run the kitchen, my wife runs the front of house, and we now have a solid South African core. For us, continuity is essential. I need people that are going to stay here for 2-3 years that I can work with and grow together.
The gardens, restaurant and house function together and should be experienced together. That is the best way. And who knows, maybe an inspector is on his way again soon!
|leonardsleegardens.co.uk
I have always been around food –my mom and uncle were chefs. My grandfather owned a hotel in the United Kingdom, where I spent a lot of time when we lived there when I was in primary school.
I initially studied IT after school because I refused to become a chef, but ultimately it was inevitable that I would be drawn back in. My mother predicted this!
I moved from the United Kingdom back to Durban, where I attended the International Hotel School based out of the Royal Hotel. I hated it, but I did have an amazing lecturer, Helen Mcmiles. She got me extra work at Aubergine under Jason Black and later his brother Chris Black. I am indebted to them all for helping me push through.
Back in the United Kingdom, I worked at The Brasserie at Pennyhill Park for two years before moving to the fine dining restaurant Latymer under chef Michael Wignall who had just started. It was undoubtedly the biggest influence on how I look
at and think about food. In the first six months, we earned our first Michelin star. After five years, the restaurant had earned two Michelin stars.
I met Mark Slaney, who told me about the idea for Condita. I was sold! We spent months looking for the right space and found it in Salisbury Place on an unassuming side street in residential Edinburgh. After one month of refurbishment and menu design, we opened! Six months later – Boom! I am in a room with some of the top chefs in the country, feeling like a little schoolboy. We had our first Michelin star. It was the most surreal and almost out-of-place experience. I was trembling, going up to receive the star. I nearly tripped up the step onto the stage. It really only sank in a few days later when I realised I was one of only three South Africans to get one. Two of us on the same day. Amazing!
At Condita, I feature biltong from various animals throughout the year and use it to season some of the dishes. Although I think I eat more than I use. Also, my guys love
it when we do vetkoek and curried mince for staff dinner.
I still have most of my family in South Africa, and I don’t think it is possible ever to shed the ties to the country – it is in our blood. It is home, but home of a different time, home of amazing memories but probably not as a home I will live in again.
I have strong feelings about sustainability. I think it is just about being responsible for everything around you. For example, we don’t use tablecloths to save water and chemicals. We have a pesticide-free garden, and our meat comes from small-yield farms. Our dairy comes from a farm where the calves stay with the mother – an ethical dairy.
I struggle to explain my inspiration behind the dishes we serve. It just sort of happens. I don’t really focus on a dish. Instead, I think, “Ahhh, pigeon would be nice,” and then just let it ferment in my brain until it returns to me. Also, the decor of our restaurant changes each season and is never repeated.
My pantry staples are mushrooms, dried or fresh, good smoked paprika, good white wine and vinegar, and I have loads of pickled and fermented stuff always knocking about.
I would invite my grandfathers and my dad to dinner if I could. I would do a simple starter, oysters, probably. My grandfather, who grew up in India, would do one of his excellent curries, my other grandfather, any one of his amazing puddings, and my dad – the wine and whiskey.
The Highlands of Scotland are incredibly stunning, and also some of the beaches have white sands and blue water like the Caribbean, but a bit colder. And as for South Africa, it’s easy – the bush – that smell in the morning. That I miss.
Sprawling wheatfields and vineyards are trademark Cape Swartland. So too, the quaint farmstay hideaways, rustic wineries and proudly independent locals.
Words & photos Clifford Roberts
TRIPPING ON SWARTLAND
iIt was something winemaker Hanneke Botha said that hit the proverbial nail on the head for me. It summed up the essence of this place.
She’d intended to describe someone, not somewhere. And I was trying to get a sense of this fascinating region, home to towns like Riebeek Kasteel, Malmesbury, Piketberg and Koringberg, some 40 minutes north east of Cape Town.
We were in the cellar at Kalmoesfontein, tasting wine from the tanks, or rather my wife and I were. A pregnant Hanneke merely sniffed and spat. I asked about her boss’s future plans, she simply said, “Adi is nooit helder en duidelik oor wat gaan gebeur… [Adi is never clear and specific about what is going to happen…]”.
That’s Adi Badenhorst, who some might describe as the ringleader of punk winemaking.
In that instant, nose deep in a glass of milky Chenin, I knew the relief that Eskom boss Andre de Ruyter must feel when the lights flicker on. The Swartland has serious wine cred, but alongside it (and maybe even as a result), the region has a fringe of irreverent, unpredictable winemaking that imbues every experience of the area.
I mean, who calls a wine The Pink Moustache or El Bandito?
They do, in the Swartland.
Kalmoesfontein (and the AA Badenhorst Family Wines brand) is a poster child for this vibe, situated at the end of a gravel road into the back of beyond. The old werf that overlooks a kloof in the Paardeberg massif is awash with farm animals (all named), including Adi’s private “parrot hotel”. A herb garden is dotted with signs with plant names, among them one for Acorus calamus – the water-loving reed that gave the farm its name and which is used as an ingredient of its Caperitif vermouth. While we check in, I glimpse the farm office, a kind of museum of curiosities that’s filled with stuffed animals, artefacts in glass cases, bottles with foreign labels and a small library.
Rooms to let have been created in an assortment of buildings. Ours, a former dairy, has been revamped as a blend of farm nostalgia modcon. An old stable door opens into a chic space dressed in natural fabrics and textures. Adi’s wife Cornelia is a décor stylist by trade, and it shows.
The guestbook is dense with information and a map of the farm. Overnighters with bikes can ride its
All roads lead to rejuvenation.
gravel roads; for walkers, these extend onto a trail into the Paardeberg. Those with fishing rods and bathers are welcome to use the dams, while the farm ponies can be saddled up for kiddie rides.
Wine tastings can be doubled up with bookings to the staff buffet lunch, and Kalmoesfontein becomes a hive during its Thursday pizza evenings.
On my first morning, I grab a coffee and stroll the werf. It’s barely eight o’clock, and the grounds are abuzz. A forklift negotiates huge vats in the cellar. In a nearby field, a team is engaged among vine rows. A small army busies itself in the kitchen with cleaning and cooking. There’s a wedding here over the weekend, apparently. In the yard, turkeys googlygook among themselves, ignoring a haughty patrol of geese. The sound of birds is everywhere, even when I head down the road – deeper into the Siebritskloof – to Waterval farm, where Jasper Wickens makes his wines.
The werf here, too, is surrounded by trees and that same mellowness. Birds are a central theme to Jasper’s Swerwer brand of wines; swallows on the wine label are a link to his former life as a travelling winemaker. Having married Franziska Shreiber in 2016, he moved to the farm that has been in her family for three generations.
Like Adi, where Jasper spent 10 years making wine, the Swerwer cellar has a large Italian coffee machine and a collection of vinyl. We taste wine and chat to John Lee Hooker’s Free Beer and Chicken. Sitting there in the cellar, it’s not hard to see the appeal of the Swartland and to begin to understand what a group of winemakers under the banner of Swartland Independent Producers seek to preserve.
A no-frills charm is echoed in a love of the forerunning farmers, wholesome living and old vineyards.
Winemaker Martin Lamprecht, owner of Marras Wine, says he takes his style from what he saw during harvests in France. “The French were laid back and left things to happen whenever they happened. They lived the lifestyle of wine whereas South Africa is more about the work of wine.”
He tells his story over a fantastic dry hanepoot and bistro-fare in the restaurant adjoining his winery that he opened mid-way between Riebeek Kasteel and West in December. The cheery umbrellas and outside tables of the place, usually visible from the main road, are packed away today because of threatening
Going country doesn’t mean giving up on style and Kalmoesfontein accommodation has it in spades.
rain clouds. So instead, a few diners like us share the warm interiors for lunch.
Marras is Martin’s nickname and one he liked for the title of his eatery and brand because it sounded friendly and casual.
He’s always thought there’s too much snobbery and “over-analysis” around wine. Still, it didn’t stop one customer arriving one day wanting to taste what she pronounced with a French accent as the Marrah L’Oh Troh, which turned out to be the Marras Los Tros (loose berry) Chenin Blanc.
Equally fitting to the Swartland reputation for the unusual is Billy Hughes, an Argentinian engineer who moved to SA in the 1990s and established Nativo by Hughes Family Wines. The winery is distinctly nontraditional, a comment Billy responds to in a silky, Spanish-tinged accent with, “We can do it the usual way, but what do we learn?”
He meets us at the tasting room – an earthen building whose walls are erected by ramming lightlywatered soil into a shuttered mould. Appearing to float overhead, the roof deflects direct sunlight and rain, ensuring a consistent temperature year-round.
The cellar is merely a suggestion from a distance, a mound. But, as we get closer, I see the descending ramp to its cavern-like entrance. “The design is a lesson in using what you have and exploits earth coupling – a connection with the earth – and thermal mass – the ability to maintain a stable, cool climate,” says Billy. “There is no power and only one small generator, which is all we need.”
It takes minutes of silence as we take the construction of buried shipping containers all in. All the winemaking tools are here, too, including stainless steel and egg-shaped tanks and barrels and a press Billy designed and constructed himself. Unsurprisingly, organic and biodynamic principles are applied to the farm and wines.
It was by chance that Billy bought land here, but ideal. Today, he’s a member of the Swartland Independent Producers. “The great thing is that they are all very young guys. They have detached from what they were supposed to be doing, are welltravelled, innovative and spunky. And they are very generous with their information,” he says.
Back at Kalmoesfontein, we reflect on the full day, sharing the warmth of a roaring fire with farm hound Appelliefie, a Bouvier-Great Dane cross. Indeed, the Swartland had surprised us once again.
out’nabout
For excellent views, beer, wine and food – Kloovenburg Eight Feet Village is new and sits atop the Bothmanskloof Pass near Riebeek Kasteel. eightfeet.co.za
For MTB riders – Called the Kasteelberg & Village Bike Trail, there’s a gravel route around the base of the mountain linking the towns of Riebeek Kasteel and Riebeek West. kasteel-valley.com/cycling.html
For hikers – A 2km trail, scaling some 600m in elevation to the top of the Kasteelberg, starts at Pulpit Rock winery. pulpitrock.co.za/riebeek-valley-hiking-trail/ For wine-seekers – Two good places to start an exploration of the local wines is swartlandwineandolives.co.za, which also promotes the region’s olive producers, and swartlandindependent.co.za
For birders – There is a host of well-supported birding routes in the region. riebeek-valley.com/birding-route.html
Leave the phone in the room and just look up.
BEACH BREAK
Do December hols differently in Plett & Knysna
Words Carrie HamptontThe urge to travel south or east from Mpumalanga, Gauteng and Cape Town to the Garden Route coast in December can be likened to that of Tanzania’s great wildebeest migration. In both cases, instinct kicks in, propelling each towards the bliss they seek.
I, too, have this impulse for the good life of sun, sea and sand, with Plettenberg Bay and Knysna my favourite des-res destinations. My friend Rosie always hires a villa but has taken to spending the last week of each holiday in a hotel. She claims her right to “down tools,” absolving herself of planning, cooking and entertaining.
Two favourites hotels of the moment are The Bungalow Plett, part of the Raw Africa boutique collection, a literal stone’s throw from Plettenberg Bay’s main beach; and Knysna’s Turbine Hotel and Spa on the water’s edge of Thesen Island.
With curiosity peaked and knowing Rosie’s high standards for pleasure and comfort, I went to see what appealed to her about these two very different hotels and what to do differently in their vicinity.
Plettenberg Bay
Lit by neon and dressed in turquoise, The Bungalow boutique hotel embraces a laid-back beachy feel – how could it not – with Plett’s powder white beach mere metres from the entrance. Choose a room at the front or a
family apartment right at the top, where sea-view terraces bring on the desired state of mind. The plunge pool may be disappointingly small, but the Indian Ocean right opposite is infinitely large. The hotel is at the other end of Central Beach to Beacon Isle – standing sentinel on a rock in the ocean – and where all the marine excursion booking offices are found.
I plucked up the courage to swim with seals with Offshore Adventures. Not so confident in deep water, my apprehension was palpable. Still, my fear dissipated the moment I plunged my masked and snorkelled head into the water and stared into big round eyes. The seals were checking me out and turning somersaults all around me. Half an hour of their playful frolicking left me childishly exhilarated, and the boat’s high-speed beach landing increased the adrenaline. I was on a high all day.
Like seals, I prefer my fish raw, and the Bungalow’s sushi quickly became my favourite go-to meal, accompanied by an icy lime Margherita. They suggested I drink my next cocktail at their big sister hotel Sky Villa, at the top of the hill behind Old Nick Shopping Village. Down-to-earth General Manager of Raw Africa hotel group Paul Duverge has ensured that the 5-star Sky Villa is accessible to locals, with an unpretentious, affordable menu, pensioner’s specials and movie nights. And,
surprisingly, it’s a rock concert venue too! Ard Matthews of Just Ginger fame walked by before playing his sunset gig that very night, as have other big names like Mathew Mole and Arno Carstens. Even without the entertainment, Sky Villa is entrancing for sea views stretching from Keurbooms river mouth all the way to the Robberg peninsula. When tired of looking at the vista, do a Rosie and sit by the vast blue pool with pink drink in hand.
I need a bit more activity, so I’d arranged to go on the Kalander Kloof Fynbos walk in Nature’s Valley, guided by a conservation scientist from the non-profit Nature’s Valley Trust. It enlightens outdoor enthusiasts and school groups by explaining their cutting-edge conservation work and ecological research while wandering through protected areas full of indigenous species. The Knysna turaco suitably made several flashy appearances.
The most rewarding bird experience in Plett for families is Birds of Eden in The Crags. With a vision that only comes with a touch of madness, the owners of Monkeyland – the world’s first free-roaming multispecies primate sanctuary – created another first with the largest free-flight aviary for rescued birds. These two special sanctuaries are next to each other, and nearby is Jukani Wildlife Sanctuary, giving forever homes to rescued big cats. Together they form SAASA – The South African Animal Sanctuary Alliance – whose high ethical principles raise them above less honourable outfits.
Knysna
Steam-punk décor doesn’t come more genuine than The Turbine Hotel on Thesen Island in Knysna. Paying homage to its industrial roots as a power station, huge furnaces and brightly painted pipes determine the layout of rooms and provide some unusual eating spaces. The transformation from function to art inspires exhibitions of artworks for sale around the hotel, regularly refreshed by Knysna Fine Art Gallery and affording some great selfie moments.
I would have thought it was a bit too funky for Rosie until I saw my gorgeous room overlooking the water channels and exclusive water’s edge homes of the everso-smart Thesen Island development. High heels impede walking the gangplank down to the Turbine’s Water Club jetty to board a lagoon sunset cruise, so opt for flatties! Oysters and champagne for adults and crumbed and marinated platters for the family keep everyone happy.
Wanting to do the Circles in the Forest walk in the Goudveld section of Garden Route National Park, I packed walking shoes, but a pair of tekkies will suffice, and a Wild Card or small fee gives access. Sue Swain, the founder of BioWise, themes her guided walks here on
out’nabout
Plett
The Bungalow Plett and Sky Villa –rawafricaboutiquecollection.co.za
Offshore Adventures – offshore adventures.co.za
Nature’s Valley Trust – naturesvalleytrust.co.za
SAASA: Birds of Eden, Monkeyland, Jukani Wildlife Sanctuary – saasa.org.za
Ocean safaris – Plett-tourism.co.za/activity/ocean-safaris
Ocean Blue Adventures – oceanadventures.co.za
Knysna
The Turbine Hotel – turbinehotel.co.za
Knysna Fine Art Gallery – fine arts.co.za
BioWise – biowise.org.za
East Head Café – eastheadcafe.co.za
Nutrilicious Kitchen – nutriliciouskitchen.co.za
Garden Route National Park – sanparks.org
biomimicry, commonly associated with copying shape, form or processes from nature for better design and technology; like how the Japanese bullet train replicated the shape of a kingfisher’s beak to stop the sonic boom. But Sue’s walks serve a greater purpose of reconnecting with, learning from, and emulating nature. So she offers two options; a walk focused on the magical hidden life of the forest and another more spiritual journey of sensory bathing, mindful breathing and re-discovering a sense of self.
In this newfound state of mindfulness, drive to the top of Knysna Heads to view the expansive views with a new sense of awe. Only daring or experienced yachtsmen brave the treacherous passage from the sea into Knysna lagoon through the narrow gap between steep-sided cliffs. Witness all the moods of this choppy strait in comfort from the popular East Head Café, whose tables perch on the rocky sea edge. Unfortunately, they don’t take bookings, so take your chances, or go early or late.
You need to book ahead for a very different food experience that will make your whole family healthier and wiser. Dr Geraldine’s interactive cooking workshops in various Knysna venues, or even your own kitchen, are based on her Nutrilicious way of eating a plant-based diet, free of refined foods. Integrating her background as an advanced nutrition mentor, doctor of homoeopathy and qualified chef, she creates dishes so delicious that you quickly become inspired to forge a new and healthier relationship with food.
Her book Nutrilicious Kitchen – The Heart & Art of Nutrition is sold out in hard copy but available in an online edition.
There’s so much more to Plett and Knysna than is possible to explore in a short visit, but Rosie’s indulgent philosophy of a hotel stay to polish off a Garden Route holiday migration has real merit. Add excursions in nature, a dash of adventure and some self-discovery into the mix, and it’s my new ideal way to handle the school break in style.
Sky VillaINTO THE PHOTOGRAPH
Krisjan Rossouw’s
Kris spoke to us in his Zen-white De Waterkant cottage, dotted with African artefacts, powerful statement pieces and a vast artist proof of his own favourite photograph from his Dark Paradise series that launched his career.
Dark Paradise was his debut solo exhibition in Cape Town’s Castle of Good Hope in 2013. “I didn’t see myself as an artist then. I just knew I had to create,” grins Kris. Being a heritage building, it was dimly lit by antique chandeliers, and he wasn’t allowed to hang anything on the walls. “My photographs had to be suspended from rafters, and they swung in the breeze. It was surreal,” Kris recalls.
Kris reveals that Patricia Laloyo from Uganda was his muse for Dark Paradise, photographed in the damp basement of his Sea Point cottage where water seepage from
ka natural stream created patterns on the walls, lit by one fluorescent tube. “It was the first time I realised how beautifully light reflects on dark skin.” Non-traditional photographic lighting has become a key signature of Kris’ stylistic approach, where the background becomes the colour, and the model almost becomes a silhouette.
Draping his subjects with foliage has also become a successful signature look. The poetic play of botanical accents in the Dark Paradise series has made it so sought after that only smaller-sized limitededition prints are still available.
He gained international exposure after being invited to exhibit in Hamburg, followed by a solo exhibition in The Gallery at Grande Provence in Franschhoek, which continue to favour his work.
The show entitled we never
dreamt of seas explores identity in the context of slavery. The connection between the sea and people being taken from their countries, referencing the silent triumph of each subject; a wistful study of self-expression amidst the metaphor of broken, lost, and discarded things. Kris honours each model as an active collaborator in the process. Each photograph in this sequence is named after the model. Adam was plucked into his moment of fame from the Grande Provence waiting staff. “We work together to find that brief moment of truth in the image,” Kris explains.
Exhibitions come and go, but Marble Restaurant in Rosebank, Johannesburg, collaborated with four South African artists to permanently incorporate art into their interiors. Rossouw’s life-sized photographs translate Marble’s story
intriguing African portraiture art photographs keep popping up on Instagram, restaurant interiors and décor shoots, so we sought him out to hear the inspiration behind his sculptural images.Words Carrie Hampton Photos Kris Rossouw
of fire, smoke, organic beauty and sophistication. “They loved the turquoise green effect my lighting produced, matching the tiles by ceramicist Mervyn Gers.” Marble’s interior decorator commented, “His artworks are a pivotal storyteller. They stand out and offer patrons something to talk about.”
Kris uses models from all over Africa, and the Caribbean, and the main model in Tropika is Tanya Nzonzimbu from Republic of Congo. “I couldn’t take a bad photo of that girl! She walked into the room, grabbed a beer from the fridge and said in her silky French accent, “I’m ready!” The backdrop is a water-damaged concreted wall with limestone discolouration that emulates waves coming into shore. “The nicest pictures I’ve taken have been in derelict spaces.”
Tropika, inspired by the exotic islands off the east coast of Africa,
was a collaboration with French furniture brand Roche Bobois, which partners with renowned designers and global fashion houses. Kris had artworks in the Roche Bobois Cape Town and Johannesburg showrooms, then came the offer to show in their Mauritius gallery. “I love tropical islands,” Kris admits and sought out exotic plants, especially for these images. Kris remembers the opening night, “My partner didn’t let me have a drink until the opening was over, but everyone wanted a one-on-one walk-through, so I did laps of the gallery until midnight!”
The most recent series Kris worked on, called Culture Club, was his interpretation of blurring the lines between black and white. He decided to make a fictional rainbow nation adorning models with initiation clay lit with different colours. “The images are powerful, graphic and potentially
confrontational because some of the models are looking straight at you.”
Kris explains that he had no formal art or photographic training; perhaps that’s where his genius lies. He’s not constrained by how it’s supposed to be done. Instead, his creativity knows no boundaries.
Kris is of Huguenot descent with a Dutch twist to the spelling of his surname Rossouw but was born a child of Africa. “Africa is part of who I am. I want to push the themes of Africa into a more positive, proud and beautiful way.”
Kris Rossouw’s next body of work will launch in the Deepest Darkest Gallery on the ground floor of his home in De Waterkant, Cape Town. But first, Kris and his partner are taking a well-earned holiday; where else but the tropical island of Mauritius?
| krisjanrossouw.com
| IG@krisrossouw
Opening this December, Qwabi Private Game Reserve by Newmark is situated in the Bushveld district of the Waterberg and is set in one of only two UNESCO-declared savanna biospheres in Africa.
This is Big-5 country and has a water-rich ecosystem teaming with plains game and birdlife. Named after the ‘African Wild Cat’ in Sesotho, Qwabi is an 11 000-hectare, malaria-free private reserve that will offer three luxury fivestar lodges, of which Letamo is the first to open.
Letamo is ideal for families seeking an immersive bush experience where children of all ages can learn whilst
oplaying, and parents can rest and rejuvenate. The lodge includes a kids’ club offering explorative adventures alongside a padel court and two swimming pools, one overlooking a waterhole. Letamo offers various dining options, from the elegant main restaurant to intimate dining spaces for couples, and a vibrant outdoor boma. A wellness spa boasts multiple treatment rooms and relaxation spaces, adding to the lodge’s appeal as a wilderness wellness retreat.