Mustang Magazine | Issue 23 by Mustang Magazine

W I ND OW FI X • AXLE I NSTA LL ISSUE 23 $595

SHELBY

FIRST & LAST WHAT IT WAS AND BECAME

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What’s under your skin?

ale

lco We

Competition

Importers Inc.

Our sides are square • Assembled in Ohio • Correct dimensions

Their sides are bent • Assembled overseas • One inch too high and one inch too short

Our Floors: • Level, Straight • Assembled in USA • Used in professional restoration shops • Built to order for your project - year & model specific • $1,900 to $2,800 for concours correct

Competitor’s floors: • Assembled overseas • Not exact year specific • 1.5 inches out of level • 1.5 inches out of square • $2,600-2,850

Complete Skeletons: • Built from our straight and square floors • Within 0.125 inches of factory spec • Nothing to hide • Sheetmetal available • Built to order Thoroughbred

International 6145 St. Rt. 446 Canfield, OH 44403 sales@thoroughbredgt.com (330) 533-0048 Industry Leading Fit & Finish

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Competitor’s skeletons: • Built from crooked assemblies • Cut, weld and grind your dream away • Sold with sheetmetal that hides deficiencies • No longer your only option Mustang®, the tri-bar taillights, fastback roofline and side scallop are registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company. Thoroughbred Int. is not associated with the Ford Motor Company. Sheetmetal attached by outside company.

ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

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ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

ISSUE 23 TABLE OF CONTENTS

AXLE INSTA LL WIND OW FIX •

$ 95 ISSUE 23 5

DEPARTMENTS

8 EDITORIAL

23 EVENTS

10 YOU GOTTA SEE THIS #1

24 NEW PARTS FOR CLASSICS

12 YOU GOTTA SEE THIS #2

26 MUSTANG NATION

16 MUSTANG NEWS

30 MARTI REPORT

18 AUCTION RESULTS 20 ONLINE FINDS

82 FIX MY MUSTANG

SHELBY

Ame T IT WAS And Bec FIRST & LAST WhA

ON THE COVER It started as a premium Mustang and ended as one, but defined differently. We begin our walk through the Shelby’s genesis with the ’65 GT350, while Jerry and Mavis Regynski’s ’70 GT500 represents the final chapter, at least for the classic era. Photography by Tom Shaw

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COVER STORY 38

SWAN-SONG SHELBY

Jerry and Mavis Regynski didn’t have to go far to find their rare Grabber Yellow GT500 — it came to them

FEATURES

LEGENDS SERIES #23

1970 Shelby GT500

32 1 965 GT350 — THE LEGEND BEGINS

Jim Wick’s original-recipe Shelby 46 BEAUTY BY THE BAY

Gene Giambona’s Bullitt Tribute ’68 coupe 64 SUPER COUPE

Bill Kulenkamp’s ’71 Special Value hardtop packs a powerful punch 86 F ROM THE ARCHIVES

Reprinting a seldom-seen salesman’s booklet. Pages 9 through 13. 96 LAST PAGE CULTURE

Plastic ponies

RESTORATION & MODIFICATION 54 NINE-INCH AXLE INSTALLATION

Give your old Mustang a swift kick in the rearend 72 SPOT-ON WINDOW ADJUSTMENT

Intimidated by befuddling windows that won’t work properly? Here’s how to achieve smooth window operation and great fitment

ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

E DITORIAL

Little things I love about the Mustang

THE LITTLE THINGS

mall things matter. They matter a lot. Baseball, says the old cliché, is a game of inches. An inning, a game, a season, can turn on one play. Chefs stress details like not only what spices to add, but when to add them. That seems like it might be too small to matter, but they explain that if you add certain spices too soon, they’ll burn. Discerning musicians can hear a note that’s flat by too little to register to a machine. Those are little things, but a surgeon will tell you there are no little things. At least he’d better. I remember little kindnesses done, like Mrs. Springer, the high school secretary who knew I skipped the day before and could have busted me but didn’t; like a sweetheart who gave up one of her two jackets for me (dummy me didn’t bring one) when a fall motorcycle ride turned unexpectedly cold after dark; like a cousin who applied a folk remedy to a painful bee sting. All these things happened decades ago, but I still remember them well and continue to appreciate them. When it comes to these old cars we so enjoy, the little things matter too. Little things, like say the spinner wheelcovers when the wheels are turned, can win your heart or drive you crazy, or like the impossible-to-stop whistle from the vent window that won’t seal. I don’t know why I value some of the things that I do about our Fords, but certain things, so small that you’d think they might be meaningless, actually pack a powerful pull. I dig the blue-green glow of the dash lights and how you can turn them up or

MUSTANGMAGAZINEONLINE.COM

by Tom Shaw

down with a twist of the light-switch knob. I like the tall numbers on the mid-1960s’ speedometers and how the bright orange needle looks against those numbers. Silly? Probably. But silly or not, they’re things I notice and like. Early Mustangs are loaded with those kinds of things. The 289 fender badge is a magnificent sculpture, especially the enhanced High Performance version with its checkerboard background. Then there’s the GT’s polished, louvered exhaust tips coming out of the chrome-trimmed valance cutouts. Oooo, man. There’s the way those fog lamps sit in the grille. And those fastback vents, inside and out, have fascinated me since I was a kid — the grilles, how the slider moves — just too cool. The sport steering wheel, with its three brushed spokes and wood rim, is a work of art. On the functional side, I love the feel of the warm air radiating up from under the dash when you kick on the heater on a cold night. I pay attention to sound too. When I lived near Air Force bases, I got to where I could identify the various airplanes by their sound. I still can. F4 Phantoms have a brutal roar. Turboprop C130s have a smooth, even whirr. C141 Starlifters, now out of service, have their own metallic note. And of course, there’s the unique and eerie whine of the giant C5A Galaxy. I’ve heard that Ford engineers go to great effort and expense to get that solid sound of the car door closing. That could only mean that the sound of a solid door closing sells cars. Ford starters have a certain sound,

the click of the solenoid, the starter drive gear on the flywheel ring. It makes its own sound, and it’s something I remember that I’ve filed under Vintage Memories. Without looking, I could hear six different engines starting and pick out the 289. Solid lifter engines have their own sound as well. Clicking, clacking, and whirring of the solid-lifter engine, especially on a cold engine, is probably considered junk noise to many. But to a motorhead who knows why it’s there and why lesser engines are quieter, it makes a statement. It speaks to me in a language that I understand. And as the car pulls away under heavy throttle and catches the next gear, there’s a wonderful, exquisite note from the tailpipes. It’s little stuff, but maybe there is no little stuff. Maybe it’s all big stuff, even the little stuff. If I still remember a small kindness 40 years later, I would submit that it wasn’t a small kindness after all. And that the little things we enjoy about these old Mustangs are just as important as the big things.

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Concours correct repro is exact in every way. Each contour, dimension and slot has been precisely recreated. Even the stamped part number is correct where required. Finished off with beautiful chrome plating. 67 Shelby, early two piece welded style, pair ..... 5255-8A $324.95 67 Shelby, late one piece stamped style, pair ..... 5255-8B $324.95 68 Shelby, pipe in pipe style, pair ..................... 5255-9A $374.95

CONCOURS WIPER HOSE KITS

For those who wish to achieve a higher level of detail with your concours car these wiper hoses are a must have. These hoses originally had ribbing on the side that is distinct when compared to the replacement smooth hose. These kits have been reproduced with the correct ribbing. 65-66 ..................... 17543-1B $24.95 67-68 ..................... 17543-2B $26.95 69-70 ..................... 17543-3B $21.50 71-73 ..................... 17543-4B $22.50

TIE ROD, 1965-66 260, 289

New reproductions feature correct forgings that utilize a correct style boot with metal ring and a smooth lower cover without a zerk fitting as required for concours judging. Outer, M/S, 2 reqd ... 3A130-4C $118.95 Inner, M/S, 2 reqd .... 3A131-2C $142.95 Outer LH, P/S .......... 3A130-3C $124.95 Outer RH, P/S.......... 3A130-4C $118.95 Inner, LH, P/S .......... 3A131-1C $142.95 Inner RH, P/S .......... 3A131-2C $142.95

Modern gauges mounted to a custom backing plate. “Units are sold without the dash bezel allowing the customer to add the bezel that matches the rest of their interior.” Black face/white numerals, 140 speedo W/o tach ................... 10848-8BA $560.95 w/8,000 rpm tach ...... 10848-8BB $710.95 White face/black numerals, 160 speedo W/o tach ................... 10848-8CA $560.95 W/10,000 rpm tach ... 10848-8CB $710.95 Black face/green numerals, 140 speedo W/o tach ................... 10848-8DA $560.95 W/8,000 rpm tach ..... 10848-8DB $710.95

Laser Cut! Perfect Woodgrain Detail! 69 Deluxe Woodgrain Wheel

A beautiful reproduction of the deluxe 3 spoke wheel. This wheel features excellent woodgrain detail and bright trim ring. It is ready to accept a new rim blow switch and center pad assembly (available separately) 69 ..................... 3600-6A $669.95

.95 34 Enough for two cars!

$ VALVE ASSY, DISTRIBUTOR VACCUM CONTROL

Nearly concours correct. This unit is exact in every way to the original except that it is missing the correct Ford logo. 68-73 200, 250, 289, 302, 351, 390, 428............... 12A091-8A $54.95

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SHAKER CUT OUT HOODS

Expanding on our line of hoods with precisely located laser cut shaker holes. These hoods are now available with the hood pin holes found on 69 Mach 1’s 69 Mach 1, OE tool......... 16612-4E $544.95 repro ............ 16612-4F $429.95

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THE IT COUPLE Never mind Hollywood romances. This couple is the kind we admire. Last issue, Bill Carpenter’s gorgeous ’69 Mach 1 was our cover and poster car. This issue, the Carpenters score again, this time with wife Sharon’s sweet ’66 coupe. Expertly photographed by Steve Widman in front of Mike Bertz’s polished P-51D, the potent pair is enough to quicken the heartbeat of any true-blue Mustanger.

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ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

YOU GOTTA SEE THIS

PRIMAL SHELBY Looking like a handsome movie star at the peak of his career, Phil and Linda Pickens’ ’65 Shelby GT350 strikes a fetching pose in the retro courtyard of the Route 46 restaurant complex near Orlando. Officially known as 5S151, it’s an early car with rear battery mount and was delivered from Shelby American with five (count ’em) Cragar GT wheels and Goodyear Speedway Blue Dot tires. Meticulously restored by Orlando Mustang, the sweet, matching-numbers ’65 won major medals in each of the three national shows in which it was entered: Silver at the 2012 MidAmerica Ford and Shelby Nationals in Tulsa, and Gold at the 2013 MCA shows in Mustang, Oklahoma, and Beaumont, Texas. Thus completes our thematic double play with early Mustangs featured in You Gotta See This 1 and 2. A thing of beauty is a joy forever: its loveliness increases; it will never pass into nothingness. — John Keats, English Romantic poet (1795 –1821) — photography by Tom Shaw

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ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

PUBLISHER CURT PATTERSON curt@pattersonpublishing.com EDITOR TOM SHAW tom@themustangmagazine.com MANAGING EDITOR BRANDON PATTERSON brandon@pattersonpublishing.com COPY EDITOR LAURA BURKE ART DIRECTOR PHILIP PIETRI GRAPHIC DESIGNER DANIEL BARCELO CIRCULATION DIRECTOR JASON JACOBS jason@pattersonpublishing.com MUSTANG NATION / EVENTS DIRECTOR JASON JACOBS jason@pattersonpublishing.com WEB MARKETING BRANDON PATTERSON brandon@pattersonpublishing.com ADVERTISING SALES TEAM CURT PATTERSON JASON JACOBS BRANDON PATTERSON OFFICE MANAGER DEB PATTERSON ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT BEATRIZ SALAZAR RUIZ COLUMNISTS KEVIN MARTI JEFF YERGOVICH CONTRIBUTORS NELSON CARDADEIRO BRIAN SHEPHARD JIM SMART PUBLISHED BY PATTERSON PUBLISHING Mustang Magazine is published bimonthly by Patterson Publishing, P.O. Box 41, Lakeland, FL 33802. Subscription Rates (bimonthly frequency): U.S. 6 issues; $20. Canada add $15 per year for postage. All other countries add $25 per year for postage. U.S. Funds only. Allow 4-6 weeks for new subscriptions. Send address change to Mustang Magazine, Customer Service, P.O. Box 41, Lakeland, Florida 33802. Customer Service (877) 279-3010. “Trust in the Lord with all your heart, and lean not on your own understanding. In all your ways acknowledge Him, and He will direct your paths.” -Proverbs 3:5-6

ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

N EWS

BOSS 302 IN THE WILD SIGHTING Our Field Agent Diego Rosenburg filed this report: I stopped by Wilmington, Delaware, to see some family friends before I continued onto D.C. I lived here until I was 16, so it’s “home” in some ways. I passed by this Mustang. A Boss is a major find, even though it’s not super rare. I figured I should ring the doorbell and see if I could take a few close-up pics. The gentleman of the house was very friendly and answered my questions, like, “Did I see a Vermillion interior? Do you have the Marti Report?” etc. The car had developed some deterioration from its outdoor storage, but the owner intends to one day right what’s wrong with it. The Vermillion interior was striking. The owner was previously not a fan of the interior, and had even bought a black interior kit to change the color, but it has grown on him and he will keep Vermillion. He said he’s resisted the temptation to put a Shaker on it, although he added Magnum 500s, which are an easy switch back to the original hubcaps.

MUSTANG PINBALL If you’ve played the silver ball, this new Mustang pinball table from Stern should get you revved up. At last, a big-league pinball with the Mustang theme. Honoring both the modern and the classics, the table has lots of lights, color, and action, like pop bumpers, lights, ramps, drop targets, spinning targets, and shift targets. There’s plenty to do too, like unlock hidden cars, earn Ford Racing parts, “race” in eight different modes, including drag, drifting, road race, rallies, and the ever-popular police pursuit. Here’s how Stern describes the pinball: “Ready your engines and celebrate 50 years of Mustang. The Mustang pinball machine, exclusive to Ford, drops players into the driver’s seat of one of the hottest cars on the strip. Narrated by professional racing driver Tanner Foust, this machine sets the tone for a fast-paced, white-knuckle game. The game comes equipped with top-of-the-line features including artwork by famed Ford GT car artist and designer Camilo Pardo and the ultimate soundtrack from Sony Music featuring five decades of hits.” If this looks like what your Mustang-man-cave has been missing, Stern will hook you up. Three versions are offered: Pro Premium LE

MSRP $5,395 MSRP $7,495 MSRP $8,495

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More Info: Stern Pinball (708) 345-7700 www.sternpinball.com

EXPANDED MARTI REPORTS FOR ’67-’07 FORDS You likely already know that Marti Auto Works, the Ford licensee to the entire Ford Motor Company’s complete database, has provided owners of ’67-’93 Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles with comprehensive information, including complete door data plate information, optional equipment, important order and build dates, what dealer originally delivered the vehicle, and on what day it was sold. Now, owners of ’94-’07 Fords, Lincolns, and Mercurys can get the same comprehensive information when they send their vehicle’s VIN to Marti Auto Works. “We have found through the years that the Marti Reports document and authenticate a person’s vehicle as well as providing interesting information about their prized position,” Kevin Marti stated. “Ford owners are fortunate that Ford Motor Company is not just interested in selling new cars. They take an active interest in all of their vehicle owners by making this available. No other automotive manufacturer does this.” Marti Auto Works also provides high-quality restoration products, including door data plates, window stickers, fan belts and radiator hoses, stripe kits, spark plug wires, and battery cables. More Info: www.martiauto.com

EASTWOOD EXPANDS 2K SPRAY LINEUP WITH ENGINE PAINTS Last issue, we brought you a story (an exclusive, we’d like to humbly add) on Eastwood Company’s new 2K spray paints — the cans with the catalyst right in the can. Well, the good folks at Eastwood wasted no time in following up on that release by adding another line of 2K paints for engines and engine parts. “Available in popular OEM colors and universal colors, Eastwood’s 2K AeroSpray Engine Paints feature twocomponent (2K) catalyzed ceramic paints in an aerosol can that resist temperatures up to 650F,” Eastwood said in a written statement, otherwise known as a press release. As we discovered in last issue’s product evaluation, the stuff is easy to use and very hard once dry. The 2K paints cost more (a can ranges from $20 to $30 depending on color), but not nearly as much as a cup gun, filters, compressor, mixing and cleaning supplies, hoses, and exhaust fans.

Our friends at R & A Motorsports in Lee’s Summit, Missouri, have a new website with a new feature — cars for sale. The new home page has a nice look with car-guy appeal, and the Cars for Sale section has some interesting offers too, like a ’64½ convertible barn-find project that was offered for $5,500 and is now marked sold. You’ll also find Shelbys; early fastbacks; a truck-car hauler trailer package; a stolen-car notice; and an extra-clean, low-mile ’85 Mercury ASC McLaren. Worth visiting and bookmarking we’d say. More Info: R&A Motorsports 25110 E. 97th St.  Lee’s Summit, MO 64086 (816) 246-9094 www.r-amotorsports.com

More Info: The Eastwood Company (800) 343-9353 www.eastwood.com

E ASTWOOD’ S NE W T WO- STAGE AEROSOL PAINTS ISSUE 22 $595

ULTIMATE MUSTANGS

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NEW R&A MOTORSPORTS WEBSITE WITH CARS FOR SALE

ISSUE #22 ERRORS We received the following responses about Issue 22. From J.T. Allen, regarding the ’71 Mach 1 on page 84: “Performance of the vehicle reported as coming from Car and Driver May 1966. Rod Serling would be proud!” Roger that, J.T. Obviously Car and Driver’s May 1966 Issue would have nothing on a ’71 model no matter how good their spy photographers. The May ’66 line was erroneously carried over in our specifications chart from a previous use. Actual ET for that car was 13.8 @ 104, from Motor Trend 1-71. We accept that correction but can’t resist pointing out that the car was a Boss 351, not a Mach 1. Reader Jim Woods also wrote to comment on our cover car: “Lovely car and very nice photography but... slats? spoilers? Hurst shifter? These items are common on ’69 Mach 1s these days, but for you to say this car has ‘no options added...except those it originally came with’ is misleading to your readership. I am OK with people restoring a car as they please, but this article promotes the idea that these features were available on a ’69 Mustang, which is just not the case.” We agree with Jim that those additions should have been more clearly pointed out. Thanks to both for their attention to detail. Our email: tom@themustangmagazine.com.

7/23/14 3:29 PM

ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

AUCTION RESULTS

GOING ONCE, GOING TWICE… LOT

YEAR

MODEL

ENGINE/TRANS (CODE)

COLOR

HIGH BID

SALE

FROM

F23

1965

Coupe

289 / auto

Rangoon Red

$26,000

Yes

Mecum Auctions

1080

1965

Coupe

289 / 4-speed

Poppy Red

$25,300

Yes

Auctions America

2047

1965

Coupe

289 / 4-speed

Rangoon Red

$17,600

Yes

Auctions America

196

1965

Coupe

200 / auto

Wimbledon White

$21,450

Yes

Mecum Auctions

134

1965

Fastback

289 / 3-speed

orange

$33,000

Yes

Barrett-Jackson

4037

1965

Fastback

289 / 4-speed

Wimbledon White

$29,700

Yes

Auctions America

429

1965

GT350

427 / 5-speed

silver

$156,200

Yes

Barrett-Jackson

F25

1966

Convertible

347 / auto

red

$28,500

Yes

Mecum Auctions

36.1

1966

Convertible

200 / auto

Candyapple Red

$18,150

Yes

Barrett-Jackson

677

1967

Fastback

428 / 4-speed

white

$35,200

Yes

Barrett-Jackson

1968

Convertible

289 / auto

Gulfstream Aqua

$26,950

Yes

Barrett-Jackson

680

1968

Coupe

289 / 4-speed

Bright Gold

$18,700

Yes

Barrett-Jackson

S119

1968

GT350

302-4V / 4-speed

Acapulco Blue

$90,000

Yes

Mecum Auctions

428

1968

GT500

428 / 4-speed

silver

$165,000

Yes

Barrett-Jackson

W142

1969

Fastback

302 / manual

Viper Blue

$25,000

Yes

Mecum Auctions

S196

1969

Mach 1

428CJ / auto

Coral Blue

$47,000

Yes

Mecum Auctions

4094

1969

Mach 1

428CJ / 4-speed

Black Jade

$49,500

Yes

Auctions America

2120

1969

Mach 1

428SCJ / 4-speed

Indian Fire Red

$59,950

Yes

Auctions America

363

1970

GT350

351 / auto

Wimbledon White

$88,000

Yes

Barrett-Jackson

2109

1970

Boss 302

302 / manual

green

$44,000

Yes

Auctions America

124

1970

Mach 1

351 / auto

Grabber Yellow

$62,150

Yes

Barrett-Jackson

370

1970

Fastback

428 / auto

silver

$58,300

Yes

Barrett-Jackson

4053

1971

Mach 1

429 SCJ / auto

Med. Yellow Gold

$40,150

Yes

Auctions America

4046

1973

Convertible

302 / auto

Avocado Green

$24,200

Yes

Auctions America

’69 MACH 1 - SOLD – $31,000

This ’69 Mach 1 has been updated with a new fuel-injected 392ci stroker engine and electronic A40D automatic transmission. It has a 9-inch Positraction rearend, power steering, factory air conditioning, and aircraft insulation under the carpet. Additional updates include a remote start and keyless entry. Auto Meter gauges and Torque Thrust wheels round out the package. Mecum Auctions – Dallas, TX 2014 – Lot S42

’71 CONVERTIBLE - SOLD – $23,100

This ’71 convertible resided in the same family for nearly the last 40 years. Recently restored, it’s powered by its original H-code 351ci V8 backed by an automatic transmission. It also has power steering, power brakes, air conditioning, power top, mag wheels, bucket seats, AM/FM radio, car cover, convertible boot, and spare tire. Documented by a Deluxe Marti Report. Barrett-Jackson – Palm Beach, FL 2014 – Lot 31

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’70 BOSS 302 SOLD – $53,000

Along with its 302 V8 engine and four-speed transmission, this ’70 Boss 302 also sports Magnum 500 wheels, blackout treatments, factory Shaker hood, console with Hurst T-handle shifter, power steering, and power front disc brakes. According to the Marti Report, it’s reportedly one of 165 units built with Pastel Blue paint and black interior. Mecum Auctions – Dallas, TX 2014 – Lot S129

’68 SHELBY GT500KR SOLD – $138,600

’65 CONVERTIBLE SOLD – $44,000

’73 GRANDE SOLD – $5,500

This ’68 Shelby GT500KR (for “King of the Road”) has the factory-equipped 428SCJ engine and four-speed transmission. It was reportedly restored using NOS parts for 98 percent of the job. The only known reproduction parts on it are the wheels and tires, hoses, battery and cables, trunk mat, and the plug wires. All Shelby tags are stated to be the originals. According to the Shelby American Registry, the car was drag raced in Pure Stock during 1970-1971.

Equipped with the A-code 289 V8 engine and four-speed transmission, this ’65 convertible retains the original Caspian Blue paint color with white soft-top and parchment interior. It also has air conditioning, upgraded radio, power convertible top, power steering, Rally Pac gauges, luggage rack, full-length center console, and Visibility Group. The car has reportedly always been garage kept in climate-controlled storage.

This ’73 Grande was built with the optional 351 two-barrel engine with an automatic transmission. It features a padded vinyl roof, matching blue cloth and vinyl bucket seats, pushbutton AM/FM radio, power windows, power steering, power brakes, remote mirror, and air conditioning.

Barrett-Jackson Palm Beach, FL 2014 – Lot 73

photo: Teddy Pieper, 2014 Auctions America

Auctions American Auburn Fall 2014 – Lot 5093

Auctions America Auburn Fall – Lot 4038

photo: Teddy Pieper, 2014 Auctions America

SOURCES

AUCTIONS AMERICA BARRETT-JACKSON GOODING & CO. MECUM AUCTIONS RM AUCTIONS RUSSO AND STEELE SILVER AUCTIONS

(260) 927-9797 (480) 663-6255 (310) 899-1960 (815) 568-8888 (519) 352-4575 (602) 252-2697 (800) 255-4485

WWW.AUCTIONSAMERICA.COM WWW.BARRETT-JACKSON.COM WWW.GOODINGCO.COM WWW.MECUM.COM WWW.RMAUCTIONS.COM WWW.RUSSOANDSTEELE.COM WWW.SILVERAUCTIONS.COM ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

ONLINE FINDS

DEALS FROM THE WEB ’65 COUPE FOR SALE – $14,850

The seller says this vintage Mustang coupe has been “restored as original,” including the 289 2V engine and C4 “green dot” automatic transmission. The car has dual exhaust, engine dressup kit, and Visibility Group. While the interior has original seats, everything else is new. Chrome is original. The color, Silversmoke Gray, was only available on ’64-1/2 and ’65 models. See it on www.mustangclassifieds.com/mustang-7416.html.

’72 MACH 1 FOR SALE – $24,000

This ’72 Mach 1 runs a Cleveland motor with automatic transmission. It has been featured in two music videos, an independent feature film, one global parts catalog, and has won several car-show awards. The car is mostly original and is driven a few times each week. The seller say he’s the third owner, and the vehicle has remained in Oxnard, California, its entire life. Offered on http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/4654574319.html

’69 MACH 1 FOR SALE – $49,900

Benza Motors says it will rebuild this ’69 Mach 1’s original factory R-code engine and four-speed transmission, along with anything else needed to make it driveable, for the price listed. The rest of the car will remain original and unrestored. Documented by an Elite Marti Report to be a one of one car. For more info, go to www.benzamotors.com.

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Prices Prices are subject Prices are subject Prices toarechange subject Prices are to change subject without are to Prices change subject without toare notice. change subject without to notice. change without tonotice. change without notice. without notice. notice.

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CALENDAR EVENTS OCTOBER 10.18 VIRGINIA BEACH, VA FORDTOBERFEST www.sevmc.org

11.1 KENNESAW, GA TOYS FOR TOTS-MUSTANG AND ALL-FORD SHOW www.garmc.net

10.18 FLORENCE, SC 2ND ANNUAL MUSTANG AND ALL-FORD SHOW www.escmustangclub.com

11.2 PUNTA GORDA, FL 13TH ANNUAL MUSTANG & FORD FUN IN THE SUN AT FISHERMEN’S VILLAGE wwwmustangclub92.tripod.com

10.18-19 CLINTON, TN 25TH ANNUAL MUSTANG AND ALL-FORD SHOW AND PONY RIDE www.tnvalleymustangclub.org

11.8 ENNIS, TX FUN FORD WEEKEND AT TEXAS MOTORPLEX www.funfordweekend.com

10.25 SAN LUIS OBISPO, CA PONIES, SNAKES, AND AMERICAN MUSCLE www.slo-stangs.org 10.25 MESA, AZ 35TH ANNIVERSARY: RETURN OF THE GREAT PUMPKIN www.copperstatemustangclub.com 10.26 LITITZ, PA MCCP COVERED BRIDGE CRUISE www.mjcol3.wix.com/bridge-cruise-home 10.26 SAN ANTONIO, TX 33RD ANNUAL SAMC CHARITY OPEN CAR SHOW www.samustang.com2014_carshow.htm NOVEMBER

11.8 LAWRENCEVILLE, GA ANNUAL FALL PONY ROUNDUP www.negeorgiamustangclub.org 11.9 MISSION, TX 22ND ANNUAL MUSTANG ROUNDUP www.stmc.ws 11.15 PORTSMOUTH, VA ANNUAL VIRGINIAN PILOT JOY FUND CAR SHOW www.mustangcluboftidewater.com

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11.23 SARASOTA, FL 23RD ANNUAL PONIES UNDER THE PALMS MUSTANG AND FORD SHOW www.mustangclubofwestcentralflorida.org

100’s of Applications Available Custom Built to Your Specific Needs All New–Not Refurbished Proudly Made in the

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ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

N EW PARTS

NEW BOSS NINE ENGINE KITS Jon Kaase’s new Boss Nine kits are created for use on common Ford 429-460 big-blocks. Included are their semi-hemi cylinder heads with accompanying pistons, pins, and rings as well as pushrods, shaft-mounted rockers, and induction system. Simple assembly with conventional parts. Jon Kaase Racing Engines (770) 307-0241 www.jonkaaseracingengines.com

THE SYSTEM Custom Autosound’s “The System” solves the age-old problem of where to put speakers in classics, customs, and street rods. Keep the integrity of your vehicle intact and still enjoy quality sound like in a new car. Included in The System are two satellite speakers and a subwoofer (active or passive). Custom Autosound (800) 497-0797 www.customautosound.com

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T-5, T56 BILLET SHIFT LEVER AND SHIFT KNOB California Pony Cars offers a billet shift lever and five-speed shift knob for the Tremec BorgWarner customer. This lever and knob feature a race-inspired look while giving your car’s interior a clean, smooth look. California Pony Cars (888) 225-7669 www.calponycars.com

BOLT-ON SUSPENSION SYSTEM Available from Summit Racing is the Hotchkis Stage 1 total vehicle system. It’s a complete bolt-on system that gives your car a comfortable ride and more aggressive look. Front coil springs lower the front 0.5 inch (’65-’66) and 1 inch (’67-’70), and the rear leaf springs lower the rear 1.5 inches (’65-’66) and 1.4 inches (’67-’70). No welding or cutting required. Summit Racing (800) 230-3030 www.summitracing.com

ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

T RAVEL

MUSTANG

Rocky Mountain Edition

1 BITTERROOT CLASSIC Missoula, MT May

2 TREASURE STATE MUSTANG CLUB SHOW

Denver, CO (720) 865-3500

DEVIL’S TOWER Devil’s Tower, WY

12 DEVIL’S TOWER

Great Falls, MT June

Devil’s Tower, WY (307) 467-5283

3 ROCKY MOUNTAIN MUSTANG ROUNDUP

13 FORT LARAMIE HISTORIC SITE

Steamboat, CO June

Fort Laramie, WY (307) 837-2221

4 TREASURE VALLEY MUSTANG AND FORD SHOW

14 GATES OF THE MOUNTAINS

20 RED ROCKS PARK AND AMPHITHEATRE

Nampa, ID June

Helena, MT (406) 458-5241

Morrison, CO (303) 295-4444

Yellowstone National Park, WY (307) 344-7381

5 MUSTANGS WITH ALTITUDE NATIONAL SHOW

15 GLACIER NATIONAL PARK

21 ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK

27 BIG HOSS BBQ

Loveland, CO July

6 HORSEFEATHERS CAR SHOW Greeley, CO August

ATTRACTIONS

11 DENVER BOTANIC GARDENS

West Glacier, MT (406) 888-7800

16 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK Jackson, WY (307) 732-0629

7 BALANCED ROCK

17 KIT CARSON COUNTY HISTORIC CAROUSEL

Buhl, ID (208) 736-2350

Burlington, CO (719) 348-5562

Estes Park, CO (970) 586-1206

22 ROYAL GORGE BRIDGE AND PARK Canon City, CO (888) 333-5597

23 SHELBY AMERICAN COLLECTION Boulder, CO (303) 516-9565

26 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK

RESTAURANTS

ANNUAL EVENTS

NATION

A DIRECTORY FOR MUSTANGERS, BY MUSTANGERS Welcome to Mustang Magazine’s regional directory of the Mustang world, which includes parts vendors, restoration and mechanical shops, shows and events, great diners and restaurants, roadside attractions, races, drive-ins, and just plain old neat things.

Denver, CO (720) 855-3061

28 BLUE’S BBQ Billings, MT (406) 245-2583

29 BUNNERY BAKERY & RESTAURANT Jackson Hole, WY (307) 733-5474

30 BUSY BEE LUNCH

24 TELLURIDE GONDOLA

Buffalo, WY (307) 684-7544

Cortez, CO (970) 529-4465

Telluride, CO (888) 353-5473

31 CANDEL’S BY-WAY CAFE

Boise, ID (208) 345-8330

19 MUSEUM OF THE ROCKIES

25 THOUSAND SPRINGS STATE PARK

10 CUSSLER MUSEUM

Bozeman, MT (406) 994-2251

Hagerman, ID (208) 837-4505

8 BEAR LAKE STATE PARK St. Charles, ID (208) 945-2565

9 BOISE ART MUSEUM

18 MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK

Arvada, CO (303) 420-2795

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Stanford, MT (406) 566-2992

32 DONN’S HILLTOP KODIAK GRILL Boise, ID (208) 338-8859

2 1

MONTANA

14 44

12 26 47 4 9 32 48 40 33 42

IDAHO

38 16 29

WYOMING 25

7 8 13

3 MUSEUM OF THE ROCKIES Bozeman, MT

21 5 6 23 50 49 10 46 41 20 11 27 34 45

COLORADO 36 39 22 24 18

ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

T RAVEL

Source Code

CM14

‘65-70 Shelby Mustang ‘65-73 Mustang

‘74-04 Mustang

TELLURIDE GONDOLA Telluride, CO (top) BUNNERY BAKERY & RESTAURANT Jackson Hole, WY (bottom)

33 DONNIE MACK’S TRAILER PARK CUISINE

43 WOLFER’S DINER Havre, MT (406) 265-2111

‘67-73 Cougar

FREE

Ground on orders oSvhipping *Oversize &er $300*. Truck Freight item

s excluded.

Get Social!!! Check us out on , , & !!! Two locations to serve you! Connecticut 440 Adams Street • Manchester 06042 Local: 860-647-1965 Fax: 860-649-1260 Georgia

2505 Newpoint Pkwy • Lawrenceville 30043 Local: 770-446-1965 Fax: 770-446-3055

34 THE FORT RESTAURANT Morrison, CO (303) 697-4771

35 GRANDPA’S SOUTHERN BBQ Idaho Falls, ID (208) 522-1890

36 KING’S CHEF DINER Colorado Springs, CO (719) 634-9135

37 LUXURY DINER Cheyenne, WY (307) 638-8971

38 NORA’S FISH CREEK INN Wilson, WY (307) 733-8288

39 NORTH END DINER Colorado Springs, CO (719) 442-1833

40 RICK’S PRESS ROOM Meridian, ID (208) 288-0558

41 SMOKIN’ YARDS BBQ Idaho Springs, CO (303) 567-9273

42 WESTSIDE DRIVE-IN Mustangs Unlimited is an independently owned and operated company and is not affiliated or associated with Ford Motor Company.

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MustangMagazine_third_#25.indd 1

5/14/14 11:45:10 AM

Boise, ID (208) 345-2816

44 AL & BUZZ ROSE’S WRECKING YARD Helena, MT (406) 458-5524

45 COLORADO MUSTANG SPECIALISTS Aurora, CO (877) 687-8864

MUSTANG RESTORATION SHOPS

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Boise, ID (208) 384-9008

46 AMERICAN STANG Brighton, CO (303) 521-8030

47 BRUCE COUTURE’S MODERN DRIVELINE Caldwell, ID (208) 453-9800

48 CAR CONCEPTS Nampa, ID (208) 442-6335

49 ED’S CLASSIC MUSTANGS Arvada, CO (303) 420-2886

50 MUSTANG RANCH Golden, CO (303) 931-5412

ADVANCED MUSTANGOLOGY

THE MARTI REPORT

by Kevin Marti

THE END

Note the difference in the “American” and “Automotive” company names for these tags, illustrating the split between Ford and Shelby.

he words hurt. Much more so than a barefoot walk in the Texas sun. Carroll Hall Shelby had just heard his doctor tell him he couldn’t race anymore. That ol’ ticker would do him in if he kept charging through those turns. A problem he had lived with since he was seven was now biting him. He couldn’t believe the words he was hearing. It was the end. Such a promising career. In 1956, at the age of 33, he was named Sports Illustrated’s Driver of the Year. That recognition would be repeated the next year. He continued racing both sides of the pond, leading up to the win at Le Mans in 1959, only the second American driver to accomplish such a feat. Now he was sidelined. Whatever you think of Texans, you have to admit they have tenacity (read that: stubbornness). Once he got his wits about him, Ol’ Shel was not about to be done in. Racking his brain, he remembered how well a particular car, the AC Bristol, fared while racing at Le Mans. That would be the embryo for a new beginning. But don’t get ahead of me now, because it’s not 1962 yet. Carroll hooked up with a couple of Texas (dare I write it) Chevy dealers, and they scraped up three ’59 Corvettes. If he couldn’t be a driver, he could run a race team. Having shipped the ’Vettes to Italy, the bodies were modified by Carrozzeria Scaglietti. Ferrarilike, but not Ferraris, they were ready to take on Enzo’s troupe. All seemed well with the Bow Tie guys. They liked what they saw.

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Except it was 1960 and General Motors had just banned itself from racing. Carroll had reached the end. Relationships can be messy things. And a guy like Carroll never liked getting too cozy in bed with someone else. Seems you have to surrender a little of yourself to get along with another. But his desire to be in the race world being stronger than his desire to be completely in charge of his own destiny led him to knock on the Blue Oval’s door. And they gladly opened that door. The marriage of an English car body and Ford engine produced great results, leading to Ford wanting to make more out of what Carroll had called, “the secretary’s car.” Lee Iacocca believed the mantra, “Win on Sunday, Sell on Monday.” (GM did too, despite officially not racing). The teaming of the Ford Mustang with Carroll Shelby’s reputation seemed like a good relationship. The year 1965 saw production of the Shelby GT350 along with race versions that were soon seen on race tracks throughout the United States. Carroll and Lee viewed the production figures released at the end of the model year differently. Carroll didn’t care about the numbers; Lee thought they needed to be a lot bigger. Big ego had to give way to more powerful ego. Ford wanted things, like a back seat for the Shelby. Carroll didn’t. In went a back seat, among other changes that Ford wanted to make the car a little more “secretary” and a little less “racer” for the ’66 model year. It was the beginning of the

end. Sales quadrupled much to the delight of Mr. Iacocca and much to the chagrin of Mr. Shelby. Building that many cars took much more time, leaving Carroll with less time to do what he wanted. He was not interested in managing an assembly line. By the end of the ’66 model year, production had become very inefficient due, in part, to lack of supervision. So Ford sent an engineer over to “fix” things. This created more strain. When the ’68 model year began, Ford decided they were going to create their own “street racers.” Already on the drawing boards were plans for a “Mach 1” although at the time it was known in Ford design circles by the less-inspiring name “Super GT.” Their interest in the man from Texas was waning. The man from Texas would have used more profane language to describe his interest in them. This led to Ford taking over production of the Shelby “in house.” The legal framework was created for two companies. One was to be known as Shelby American and the other as Shelby Automotive. The former would be owned by Carroll and the latter by Ford. The evidence of this transition is plainly seen on ’68 Shelby tags under the hood. Around serial number 2000, the changeover was complete. Now Carroll would just show up for filming of an occasional commercial. The end was in sight. By 1969, Ford had introduced the now (well-named) Mach 1 along with the Boss 302 and the Boss 429. Interest in the Shelby

name waned, reflected in a drop in sales for the first time. In fact, sales were so slow that so-called ’70 Shelbys were really left-over ’69s with a few updates to make them “legal” for 1970 sales. When I use the term “legal,” I do so with a smirk. All ’70 vehicles were supposed to have locking steering columns (Shelbys didn’t) and a vehicle certification label with the month of manufacture clearly shown (again, Shelbys didn’t). In fact, though the United States government had codified wording that was to be on all ’70 models, Ford “modified” the wording so as to not betray to a potential customer that they were really buying a car that might have been made a year ago! As an aside, the last ’70 Shelby sold did not sell until March 14, 1972, nearly three years after it was manufactured. Special inventory holding areas had to be set up to sell these Shelbys. A year after the last Shelby was produced, over seven percent of them were still unsold — a very poor rate. So it is with life. Many times it seems the end is upon us. For the failed chicken farmer from Texas, numerous events hit him like a brick wall. But that bigger-than-life character known as Carroll Hall Shelby looked beyond. And even when one of the biggest dismissals came to him, he looked ahead. Because it was not the end...

The ’70 Shelby door data plate. Note the lack of a month of manufacture, a Federal requirement for ’70 cars.

1965-1970 SHELBY AMERICAN/AUTOMOTIVE PRODUCTION YEAR

COUPE

CONVERTIBLE

FASTBACK

TOTAL

1965

562

1966

2,374

2,378

1967

3,223

3,250

1968

1,324

3,126

4,451

1969

384

1,982

2,366

1970

147

641

788

Marti Auto Works produces The Marti Report and is licensed by Ford Motor Company with all of their ’67-later production records. This information is available as various reports. Marti Auto Works also has original invoices for millions of Shelbys and Mustangs. Visit www.martiauto.com or call (623) 935-2558 for more info. Email Kevin at kevin@martiauto.com. Not all emails will receive a response.

ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

THE LEGEND BEGINS Jim Wick’s original-recipe Shelby • story and photography by Tom Shaw

MUSTANGMAGAZINEONLINE.COM

s if the original Mustang wasn’t already a smashing success, Ford had, in a matter of months, added the GT, High-Performance 289, and fastback. But another very powerful version of the Mustang was about to arrive, adding an electrifying jolt to Mustang’s already incredible presence. The growing list of models and extensive option list meant that you could tailor-make the Mustang of your dreams in thousands of possible combinations. Even so, there remained a slice of the market that Ford wanted to reach — the dedicated high-performance aficionado. NASCAR was coming on strong, dragstrips were popping up across the country and drawing record crowds, and the Indianapolis 500 was a huge event with a prominence hard to imagine today. Road racing was what Ford saw in the Mustang’s future, and while other Ford models were being prepared for the other types of racing, it was time to create a special road-racing Mustang. Ford didn’t turn to a customizer or a restyler or an average hot rodder who could deliver mostly image. They turned to a race-car driver and a race-car builder, and a world-class success at both. Carroll Shelby introduced his signature hybrid, the Ford-powered Cobra, in 1962. It quickly displaced the arch-rival Corvettes and became the car to beat on circuits like Riverside, Sebring, and Bridgehampton. Thirteen months after its first race, the Cobra won its first SCCA national championship. A month later, the Cobra won a USRR championship.

ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

In August 1964, Ford approached Shelby about working his magic on the new Mustang. In September, the first cars were under construction at Shelby’s Los Angeles facility. They got the thumbs-up for SCCA B-production competition in December, and in January 1965, the official debut took place, appropriately enough, at Riverside International Raceway. The racy new model was dubbed the GT350. Other than the gas cap and the Shelby ID plate on the inner fender, you didn’t find the word “Mustang.” It was a “G.T.350.” The shape and the running-horse emblem in the grille made the unmistakable connection as a Mustang, but its identity as a revved-up racer was equally clear. Despite having to prepare 100 cars by January 1, 1965, to qualify for SCCA racing, the GT350 was simply but significantly modified in ways that mattered. Starting with mostly complete fastbacks built at the San Jose plant with black interiors, solid white bodies, and the High-Performance 271hp 289,

MUSTANGMAGAZINEONLINE.COM

Shelby reworked the chassis and suspension, adding extended-length Pitman and idler arms to quicken the steering, a big one-inch front antisway bar, and Koni shocks at all four corners. Front control arms were removed and relocated one inch lower to keep the tire’s contact patch better seated on the pavement during heavy cornering. The rearend was a shortened nine-incher with a Detroit Locker differential, 3.89:1 gears, and trailing arm radius rods. Brakes were heavily upgraded, with 11.3inch Kelsey-Hayes discs front and oversized station-wagon drums rear. The unit body was strengthened with the export bar tying the spring towers to the firewall and a Monte Carlo bar crossing between spring towers. Shelby also used a fiberglass hood to cut weight. The cars were shipped from the San Jose plant without hoods. The 289 High Performance engine received improvements on all fronts. The modest Autolite carb was replaced with a center-pivot, 715-cfm Holley four-barrel atop an aluminum

high-rise, and the exhaust was improved with tube headers, glasspack mufflers, and simple side-dump tailpipes. Shelby also added a 6.5-quart cast-aluminum oil pan and matching valve covers. The interior wasn’t forgotten either, getting a big, easy-to-read tach and oil-pressure gauge right in the middle of the dashpad. The tack swept to 8000 rpm, but redline, if you chose to be led by it, was at 6500 rpm. Strapped into your seat with extra-wide racer seat belts, you steered the beast with a large-diameter, wood-rimmed steering wheel. The rear seat was also removed on the ’65s, but like the original Thunderbirds, four-seats were in the immediate future. Together, the many mods turned the Mustang into something far beyond “sporty.” “There’s just no feeling like driving a ’65 GT350,” says Jim Wicks, long-time owner of this extraordinary example. “Because of the reworked suspension, looking out over those stripes, going gown a winding road, and listening to the Jerry Titus symphony bouncing off the trees, there’s just nothing like it.”

1965 SHELBY GT350 SPECIFICATIONS PRODUCTION ’65 SHELBY GT350 MSRP GT350 BODY STYLE

“... GOING GOWN A WINDING ROAD, AND LISTENING TO THE JERRY TITUS SYMPHONY ... THERE’S JUST NOTHING LIKE IT.”

562 (525 street versions, 37 R-models) $4,547 Shelby American ID plate on inner fender two-door fastback only

DIMENSIONS (INCHES)

WHEELBASE 108.0 OVERALL LENGTH 181.6 OVERALL WIDTH 68.2 HEIGHT 55 TRACK, FRONT/REAR 57.0/57.0 CURB WEIGHT (LBS) 2,800

PERFORMANCE*

0-60 QUARTER-MILE

6.8 seconds 14.7 @ 90 mph

* Car Life, March 1965

ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

MUSTANGMAGAZINEONLINE.COM

Jim, who founded the Mid-America Shelby Meet, has heard Carroll Shelby tell the tale many times that the ’65 was his favorite because he built it to his liking, with no interference from Ford accountants who would later insist on tampering with his recipe to an ever-greater degree. Jim agrees that it’s the purest, most functionally capable of all the Shelbys. This one holds a special place with Jim. An acquaintance had spotted the car in a stroke of luck, driving by a house with the garage door up, and seeing it sitting there. The guy talked to the people living in the house, and learned that it was owned by their son who bought it in San Diego in 1968 when he got out of the Navy and drove it back home to Ohio. But it never got driven much, and the son had lost interest in it, leaving it with his dad for quite a few years. The acquaintance wound up working out a deal to buy it, then told Jim the good news. Jim had a ’65 of his own at the time, but it needed a lot of work and was nothing like this one. “I told him that if it ever came up for sale, I’d like to have it,” Jim says. It didn’t happen right away, but a few years later the phone rang. The car was going to be sold. Unfortunately, the timing was bad. Jim had his money tied up in a different Shelby, but another friend had extended a similar offer to Jim, saying that if he ever decided to sell his Shelby, please let him know. Wouldn’t you know that that guy also had a car that would have to be sold to raise his money? Well, the planets aligned, and within 48 hours, three cars had been sold, everybody got what they wanted, and Jim became the ’65’s new owner. Showing only 51,000 miles, the GT350 is a direct link back to Shelby’s Los Angeles operations, where a handful of immensely talented men built a handful of extremely talented cars. Nobody’s modified anything for better or worse. It’s just the way it was built, other than some paint touchups. Jim, who knows a thing or two about Shelbys, says that this one is the pick of the litter. “I’ve been in and out of a lot of cars, but I couldn’t be happier.” Hey, that’s what it’s all about, right?

1965 SHELBY GT350 SPECIFICATIONS ENGINE

TYPE 90° OHV V8 BLOCK Cast-iron, two-bolt main bearing caps BORE X STROKE 4.00 x 2.87 inches DISPLACEMENT 289 cubic inches HORSEPOWER @ RPM 306 @ 6000 TORQUE @ RPM 329 @ 4200 FIRING ORDER 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 RECOMMENDED FUEL Premium COMPRESSION RATIO 10.5:1 CRANKSHAFT Cast iron PISTONS Cast aluminum CONNECTING RODS SAE 1041 forged steel OIL PAN Cobra 6-1/2 quart INTAKE MANIFOLD High-rise aluminum dual-plane CARBURETION Holley 715-cfm four-barrel w/center-pivot floats CAMSHAFT Mechanical, 324/324° duration, .477/.477-inch lift HEADS Standard K-code cast-iron VALVE SIZE, INTAKE/EXHAUST 1.77/1.45 inches IGNITION Dual-point distributor, centrifugal advance only EXHAUST MANIFOLDS Cyclone Tri-Y headers EXHAUST SYSTEM Dual, glasspacks, side-exit

DRIVETRAIN

CLUTCH 10.5 inches TRANSMISSION BorgWarner aluminum case T-10 close-ratio four-speed AXLE Ford 9-inch, 3.89:1 Detroit Locker

SUSPENSION

FRONT SUSPENSION Relocated upper A-arms, 1-inch antisway bar, Koni shock absorbers REAR SUSPENSION Live axle, leaf springs, trailing arm radius rods, Koni shock absorbers BRAKES, FRONT Kelsey-Hayes 11.3-inch vented discs BRAKES, REAR Fairlane station-wagon drums, w/metallic shoes WHEELS Steel, 15x5.5-inches, Cragar GTs optional TIRES 7.75x15 Goodyear Blue Dot, 130-mph rated STEERING 19:1 manual, quick-ratio Pitman/idler arms

INTERIOR

Shelby wood-rimmed steering wheel, 3-inch racing seat belts, center instrument pod for oil pressure/large-face 0-8000 tach

SWAN SONG

SHELBY

JERRY AND MAVIS REGYNSKI DIDN’T HAVE TO GO FAR TO FIND THEIR RARE GRABBER YELLOW GT500 — IT CAME TO THEM story and photography by Tom Shaw

ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

eople knew that Jerry Regynski was the guy to see about old Shelbys. He and his wife, Mavis, were well known as operators of Telstar Motors in Mitchell, South Dakota. Jerry, an industrious and prolific restorer of Mustangs and Shelbys, had completed hundreds of restorations and assembled a very impressive collection of Shelbys that had been gaining national attention. Their reputation grew. As it did, they became known as buyers of Mustangs and Shelbys. Just such a deal showed up on their doorstep in the early 1990s. On a trailer was a ’70 GT500 fastback looking weary. The owners wanted to sell it on the spot. Jerry sized it up. It looked used, but he’s an old pro at looking past the dirt and debris and seeing a diamond in the rough. This car was from western Nebraska, and the good news was that it was complete.

MUSTANGMAGAZINEONLINE.COM

That was a big checkmark for the plus column. Looking closer, Jerry saw that the car was arrow straight. It had never been in a collision and had no rust. Even better, the GT500 had its original interior, engine, and Top-Loader four-speed transmission. Hey, this deal was starting to look pretty good. Jerry liked what he saw and moved on to the negotiation phase. The owners were motivated, having brought the car all the way to Mitchell, South Dakota, so they didn’t play hard-to-get. The deal was struck, and the trailer was unloaded. Jerry had just bought what would prove to be a very rare Shelby, one of one produced with the option list. Kevin Marti’s research shows 470 GT500s for 1970, of which 380 were fastbacks. Just 11 were Grabber Yellow. This one got the standard GT500 driveline, a 428 Cobra Jet

engine, and four-speed transmission with the optional 3.50 Traction-Lok rear axle. Jerry gave it the best possible treatment he could during the restoration. “With a Shelby of that caliber, you don’t skimp on anything,” he says. His restored ’70 shows the high style of the last generation of Shelbys, and features abound that distinguish it from the Mustang on which it was based. Up front is an extended grille opening with its own grille and bright trim. Fog lights — a Shelby tradition — are inboard from the turn signals. A front chin spoiler and side scoops forward of the front wheels are Shelby styling, as is the multiscooped fiberglass hood with integrated locking pins and twin stripes, a ’70-only feature. A bold, reflectorized side stripe runs front to back. Shelby five-spoke wheels with Cobra caps,

ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

Kar Kraft Brighton, 1969

1969 SHELBY UPDATE As the market slowed, and the window of opportunity for Shelby’s incredible partnership with Ford closed, the plug was pulled on Shelby production. The Mach 1, Boss 302, and Boss 429 would become the premium performance Mustangs. For the unsold cars in the production pipeline and in the dealer system, an update was needed. They got three changes: twin black stripes on the hood and a spoiler added to the front valance. ID plates were also added, with a “0” for the first character instead of a “9,” denoting the model as a ’70. Kar Kraft in Brighton, Michigan, home of the Boss 429, did the changeovers on unsold cars, while those already in dealer inventory were done by the dealers. If you look real close at this vintage aerial photo, you can see the fresh hood stripes on the 83 or so cars in the south lot of the Kar Kraft plant (which still stands in Brighton and looks largely the same), along with a bunch of ’70 Boss 429s and Shelbys awaiting their update. There are also seven transporter trucks loading Shelbys for their ride to the dealership … and into history.

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aluminum centers, and chrome rims add to the looks. Working aft, we’ve got the 428 Cobra Jet fender badges, dual color-keyed racing mirrors, rear quarter scoops and rear radio mast, C-pillar Cobra badge, and the extensive rear panel restyle with the sequential taillights and center exhaust outlet. And is it just us, or do all those Shelby goodies look particularly good wrapped in Grabber Yellow? After this, the Shelby Mustang program went dormant, closing the books on an electrifying six-year run of high-impact, premium Mustangs. Had the Shelby program survived into 1971, it’s anybody’s guess what the new models would’ve looked like. But it’s almost merciful that they went away when they did. Can you imagine a Mustang II GT350 without so much as a V8? Maybe it would have been so underpowered that it couldn’t have blown its nose. Or maybe Shelby would have seen to it that any car with his brand on it had enough horsepower to keep the customer happy. He might have even led us out of the doldrums of that de-powered, emissions-tastic, smoggerriffic period. As much as Jerry likes this GT500, he’s willing to sell. As part of his restoration business, he does a lot of buying and selling, so the Shelby is available if it’s calling your name (see source box for contact info). The rest of us can just admire the car. For style, color, and Cobra Jet power, there’s a lot to like. It may have been the last Shelby, but it was pure, powerful, and undiluted Shelby.

KEVIN MARTI’S RESEARCH SHOWS 470 GT500S FOR 1970, OF WHICH 380 WERE FASTBACKS. JUST 11 WERE GRABBER YELLOW.

SOURCE Telstar Motors | 1300 - 1400 S. Kimball St., Mitchell, SD 57301 | (605) 996-6550 | www.telstarmotors.com

ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

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LEGENDS SERIES #23

1970 SHELBY GT500

OWNERS: JERRY AND MAVIS REGYNSKI TELSTAR MUSTANG AND SHELBY RESTORATIONS MITCHELL, SOUTH DAKOTA photography by Tom Shaw

ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

BEAUTY BY THE BAY Gene Giambona’s Bullitt Tribute ’68 coupe story and photography by Nelson Cardadeiro

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othing in cinematic history compares to the Highland Green ’68 Mustang fastback tearing up the streets of San Francisco in the movie Bullitt. Nearly half a century later, the green pony car is still an untouchable icon. Steve McQueen was a mega-star in the 1960s and had a lot of control in the movies he appeared in. In Bullitt, Ford was the official car provider. McQueen wanted the Mustang to match the cool, but worn, grizzled look of his character, Lt. Frank Bullitt. The Mustang wouldn’t be a perfect car. It was a little banged up from being parked in the city. All the badges were removed, and various chrome pieces were painted black or body color. Fifteen-inch American Racing Torq-Thrust D mags were then installed and complemented its sinister look. McQueen even went as far to have the stock steering wheel swapped out for a ’67 Shelby piece wrapped in leather. Its stripped-down look has been duplicated thousands of times over. Even Ford Motor Company in 2001 and 2008 took inspiration from McQueen’s Mustang and offered limited-edition Bullitt models. Born and raised in San Francisco, Gene Giambona came along a couple years after the film, but Bullitt is near and dear to his heart. Gene is very familiar with the movie’s historical spots. In fact, his first car, which he still owns, is a white J-code ’68 GT fastback.

ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

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In April 2006, Gene came across this ’68 coupe being sold on eBay. It was in San Jose, and at the time he worked in the South Bay, so he checked it out. Just two blocks into his test drive, the green coupe overheated. The seller was dismayed, saying the motor was recently rebuilt. Gene went home and decided to make an offer. The seller cancelled the auction and sold Gene the car. Gene then stored the car at a friend’s shop for two years, deciding what route to take on the restoration. Originally he planned for it to stay stock like his fastback, but that changed once he started to disassemble it. He discovered the head gasket had been installed backwards, and he found some other issues. His friend Mike Braun suggested that Gene purchase a stroker kit, as the cost to rebuild the existing motor stock would be roughly the same. At the same time, Gene’s wife, JoAnna, thought installing a five-speed transmission would make for a cool ride. Now with more performance-oriented items being talked about, Gene decided that a Trans-Am racing theme would be the route to take with his coupe. But with the C-code coupe being an original Highland Green car with Nugget Gold interior, he began to think the Bullitt look applied to

his notchback might be the way to go. South Bay Kustoms in Gilroy, California, spent nine months massaging the body to perfection before spraying the Highland Green hue to the shell. Gene had Val’s Upholstery handle the interior color change to black in the stock style. A leather-wrapped Grant steering wheel takes the place of the highly sought after and expensive Shelby wheel from McQueen’s ride. Buddy Mike rebuilt the 289 into a serious 347 dynamo. SPBM aluminum Strike Force heads with 2.02-inch intake and 1.60-inch exhaust valves work with an Erson cam to fill those combustion chambers. Up top is a Professional Products aluminum Typhoon intake manifold with a Holley 650-cfm carb. A Pertonix trigger lights the fires via an MSD ignition box, cleverly hidden behind the glovebox. Exhaust is via Tri-Y headers with 2-1/2-inch pipes up to the MagnaFlow stainless mufflers and 2-1/4-inch pipes after for clearance over the axle. An X-pipe was also added to give it a raspy sound, and exhaust tips from an ’01 Bullitt Mustang finish it off. Stock ’85 Mustang GT valve covers were polished to a high shine. A Summit spunaluminum air cleaner rests above the carb, secured by an actual 12-gauge shotgun shell that Gene modified. The engine was then hooked up with the T-5 transmission

ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

Gene says the car’s stance is what gets the most compliments. “I’d actually like it to be lower, but in the real world, living in San Francisco, that’s not really feasible.”

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that Gene’s wife requested. Mike went with a Heim-joint clutch linkage for smoother shifts. Power gets to the pavement via an 8-inch differential with a 3.55:1 Traction-Lok. Handling is far better than Lt. Bullitt’s ride. The coupe got a Shelby drop and GT springs with a 3/4-inch cut to the coils. Up front is a big one-inch sway bar with Grab-A-Trak reverse-eye leaf springs to the rear. Doetsch adjustable shocks were mounted on all four corners to smooth out those infamous San Francisco hills. BFGoodrich Comp tires are mounted on 15x7 American Racing Torque Thrust D rims that Gene modified by painting the centers a dark charcoal metallic. The fronts have been milled 1/4 inch on the backspace for clearance. Another ode to the Trans-Am series are the long-style lug nuts. Completed in April 2010, the result was stunning. Gene even resurrected an old nickname “Pellitt” for his Bullitt-tribute coupe. Originally the name “Pellitt” was given by his old friends when he purchased his small-block fastback. Since it didn’t have the big FE motor like the Bullitt movie car, hence the “Pellitt” name. It seems more appropriate for the Highland Green coupe.

ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

The car has been very well received at the two shows Gene has attended. “I’m somewhat surprised,” he says. “It’s been better than I would have dreamed.” He says the car’s stance is what gets the most compliments. “I’d actually like it to be lower, but in the real world, living in San Francisco, that’s not really feasible.” A First-Place award in the ’67-’68 Coupe class at the Vintage Mustang Owner’s Association show in June 2010 and an Award of Excellence in the ’67’68 Coupe category at Mustangs Plus Spring Display in April 2011 are the first of what are surely many more honors to come. Besides Mike Braun, Gene wants to thank Eric Johnson, Dave Charney, and Vince Cardinale for their help, and of course his wife, JoAnna, who besides giving the idea of the five-speed swap, “put up with me and tolerated all those countless hours I spent working on the car.” So, if you’re ever sightseeing in San Francisco and you see the front end of a green Mustang coming over the crest of a hill, it’s not Steve McQueen but Gene, beautifying the streets of the City by the Bay in his Pellitt Mustang.

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ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

RESTORATION

NINE-INCH AXLE INSTALLATION Give your old Mustang a swift kick in the rearend by Brian Shephard and Tom Shaw

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ast issue, Mustang Magazine ran the exclusive introduction of Currie Enterprises’ new nine-inch reproduction axle. We showed in detail how meticulously their new axle is is built from scratch. This issue, we’re back with a step-by-step follow-up showing how that new nine-inch axle is installed. These steps will work with any other axle too, so if you’ve got an axle job coming up, who better to walk you through the steps than the pros at Currie? We’re working on a ’66 Mustang here, but the process doesn’t change much, if any, through the years. All classic Mustangs were leaf-spring cars. Naturally, the job starts with the car supported safely on jack stands. If you’re unsure what you’re doing on this step, stop, or get qualified help.

Remove the wheels and brake drums.

Around the backside of the backing plate, remove the brake line connection with a 3/8-inch tubing wrench. This is another fastener that can be stubborn. With all the grease on it, a standard box wrench is likely to slip and round off the flare nut. A tubing wrench, made specifically for this job, grips the flare nut on all corners. If the nut is already damaged to the point where a tubing wrench will not fit, Vise-Grips have never been known to fail.

With a 9/16-inch socket, remove four axle retaining nuts on each side. You can get to them through the hole in the axle face.

We’ll be reusing the brake junction block and vent, so they get a good cleaning with a wire brush to bust the massive accumulation of mega-crud. Take your time. Use compressed air, cleaners, bristle brushes, whatever it takes, but get this part clean before you proceed. Dirt in brake lines is a very bad thing.

Slide both axles out of the rearend. The axles may stick in the housing, as they’ve been in there a long time. A slide hammer may be necessary to break them loose. Don’t waste your time prying with claw hammers and screwdrivers.

Remove the vent hose from the housing vent — or the remains of the hose, in our case.

RESTORATION 7

Remove the vent, preferably with a six-point 9/16inch socket or six-point boxed end of a wrench. Like everything else on the axle, this bolt will probably be hard to break loose, and six points are less inclined to slip than 12.

With a 9/16-inch deep socket, remove the nuts from the bottom of the shocks at the spring plates. We’ll use all the hardware and bushings again, so hang on to them.

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Once the junction block is free, remove the brake lines from the junction block using an adjustable wrench to hold the block, and a 3/8-inch tubing wrench on the flare nut.

Remove the big U-bolts with a 3/4-inch deep socket. You’ll probably need more than light hand tools here, like a power impact driver or a long breaker bar.

Remove the brake backing plates from the housing. Don’t touch the shoes with greasy hands, not even a little. We’re not doing a brake job, so all the brake shoes and springs can stay on. The backing plates will hang by the emergency-brake cable.

Use a 1/2-inch wrench to remove the U-joint U-bolts. We slid a big, honkin’ screwdriver through the driveshaft to keep it from spinning with the wrench. Be sure to hold the loose U-joint caps onto the U-joint as you pull it free from the rearend or you’ll have roller bearings all over the floor. A piece of tape around the caps will keep them from falling off. Drop the disconnected driveshaft down, free of the rearend. The driveshaft can stay in the car.

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RESTORATION 13

With the driveshaft disconnected, the rearend is now loose in the vehicle, and it’s heavy. Make sure to adequately support it during the next step — dropping the back end of the leaf springs.

Drop the springs far enough to open up plenty of clearance so you can pull the old rearend rearward and out the car.

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A 9/16-inch wrench will remove the shackle side plate nuts. Remove both the upper and lower.

Thoroughly clean the rearend alignment pins (top of the spring center bolt) in the center of the springs. Inspect the springs for broken leaves and clamps. Repair or replace as needed. If you’re going to repaint the springs, now is the time.

With a bit of upward pressure on the springs, the shackles can be slid off of the spring and frame. The springs stay mounted up front. We’ll reuse all this hardware too, so hang onto it.

With the exception of the backing plates that are still hanging by the E-brake cable, here are all the parts we’ll reuse. They get a good cleaning, and fresh paint, if you’re so inclined.

Inspect the axle bearings on the axle to check for wear. There should be noticeable resistance when turning the bearing, and they should be completely smooth and quiet when turning. If they are questionable at all, replace them now.

We hot-tanked our axles to get all the grime off, then, just to be cautious, we had them put in a lathe and rotated to check for straightness with a dial indicator. Given the age of the parts, this isn’t a bad idea even if you’re not having problems.

Inspect the axle splines for wear too. They’re old, so they’ll have some wear and “shine” on the splines. Look for damage like cracks, breakage, or dramatic steps in the wear area to the nonwear area.

After the axles passed the straightness test, we checked the axle-bearing journal with a micrometer to ensure that its diameter was between 1.3786 and 1.3792 inches.

Replacing the wheel bearings is a job for a shop. They’ll need to be pressed on and off. Needless to say, use only the best bearings you can buy, like U.S.A.-made Timken.

After ascertaining that our axles were in good shape and could be used again, we blasted them for a deep clean, and polished the bearing and seal surfaces with a Scotch-Brite pad.

ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

RESTORATION 25

Slide the reconditioned bearing retainer plates and new bearings onto the axle.

Here we go with reassembly. Roll the new rearend up under the car. Check out those clean and painted backing plates and leaf springs.

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Red Loctite is applied to the bearing journals; then the bearings are pressed on.

Push the leaf springs back up into place, and reinstall the shackles, shackle plates, and nuts.

Here is the new Currie replica housing back from the powdercoater. The new “N” case third member is installed, replacing the original, light-duty eight-inch. This is an original V8 car, but at some point a third member from a six-cylinder — distinguished by no vertical ribs and a lone single rib across the top of the case — was swapped into this car.

Set the rearend down so that it indexes on the pins on the tops of the springs, but do not remove your support system from under the rearend just yet.

Drive the new axle seals into the housing ends until they bottom out at the stop inside the housing end.

Insert the T-bolts back through the housing ends and backing plates, and let the backing plates rest there while the axles are installed. Grease the splines, and gently slide the axles in through the axle seals.

Reinstall the bottom spring plates, U-bolts, and U-bolt nuts, and align the shocks back into their holes. Tighten the U-bolts to the factory spec (check your shop manual), making sure to snug them up evenly from front to back. Then tighten the shock nuts. They’re mounted in rubber, so don’t overtighten.

Install the four T-bolt nuts behind the axle faces, and then tighten the nuts to spec, in this case that’s 35 ft-lb. Put the brake drums back on. We’re almost done.

Our car had a six-cylinder driveshaft in it with a conversion U-joint. To install the nine-inch rearend, we had to install a new conversion joint to adapt the small driveshaft to the larger yoke. This would be a good time to replace the entire driveshaft to a heavierduty piece. New U-joint U-bolts are also required for the larger yoke.

Mount the factory brake block back onto the housing, and reaffix it with the vent and hose, just as it was originally. We replaced the brake lines with new reproductions. Thread the lines together, but do not tighten until all the connections are made. Tubing connections can be temperamental.

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R P ESTORATION 37

Once everything is threaded together, tighten all the connections.

Install 9-Plus or other high-quality 85W/140-weight gear oil and appropriate traction fluid if equipped with Equa-Lock or Traction-Lok. Maximum unit capacity is three quarts. Most importantly: do not use any form of synthetic oil.

BREAK-IN It’s best to heat cycle the gears for break-in purposes before driving. Here’s how Currie does it. With the rearend still in the air, start the vehicle, put it in gear, let the rearend operate for approximately 10 minutes to get the rearend up to full operating temperature, then shut off the car and let the rearend completely cool. Next, take the car for a drive for 10 minutes or so to again heat cycle the rearend, this time under load. Park the car and let it cool again. After that, break-in is complete. If you have equipped the new rearend with a clutch-type traction lock, drive it in tight circles to the right and then to the left, and then in tight figure-eights to force the posi additive into the posi clutch discs. If you get any posi clutch chatter after doing this, repeat this process.

SOURCE: CURRIE ENTERPRISES 382 N. Smith Avenue, Corona, CA 92880 (714) 528-6957 • www.currieenterprises.com

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Bleed the brakes, put the wheels back on and torque to spec, and you’re done.

ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

Bill Kulenkamp’s ’71 Special Value hardtop packs a powerful punch

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story and photography by Tom Shaw

ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

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ne of the things we really like here at Mustang Magazine is finding the quirks and oddballs of the Mustang world and bringing them to you. We can almost feel the eyebrows raising. Bill Kulenkamp likes his oddballs too. He’s known for his ’71 Torino 500 Brougham that has a factoryinstalled 429 Cobra Jet engine, which would surely qualify him for the Ford Oddball Hall of Fame if there was such a thing. Bill has raced the high-powered, high-style Torino at the Pure Stock Drags for quite a few years now. So many in fact, that he’s retired it. That left an opening. Bill needed something he could drive and enjoy, and race at the Pure Stock Drags. He liked that 429 engine family and was looking for something that would go a little faster than the big Torino, which he eventually worked down to an impressive 14.14 elapsed time, especially considering the Torino’s, uh, manly 4,192-pound size. Bill kicked around the possibilities and began looking for a Mustang. But not just any Mustang. He wanted to go a different route from the loaded, luxury Torino, so the Mustang he had in mind would be a minimal model, at least as far as gingerbread was concerned. Seekers find, as the Good Book teaches, and it was true in Bill’s case. Trolling for treasure on eBay, he came across a car that caught his attention — a rougharound-the-edges ’71 coupe. The auction progressed, and Bill decided he liked what he saw. As the clock wound down to the sale’s final moments, Bill assumed the role of eBay sniper — a deep breath to clear his head, crack the knuckles and limber up the bidding finger, and an intense focus. OK, eBay, bring it.

’71 MUSTANG WEIGHT BY BODY STYLE, PRICING SPORTSROOF 3,030 lbs 3,180 lbs (Mach 1) 3,370 lbs (Boss 351)

CONVERTIBLE 3,200 lbs

HARDTOP 3,080 lbs

SUGGESTED RETAIL PRICING FROM THE FORD ARMCHAIR ESTIMATOR, THIRD EDITION, JUNE 1971

When the smoke cleared, Bill was the winner. “I purchased my Mustang in December 2007, winning the auction with one second left,” he says. Hey, that’s cutting it close. It was just before Christmas when he hooked up the trailer and drove from his Michigan hometown to a town just south of Nashville. “It was a complete, unmolested car,” Bill says. But its condition didn’t impress. It was a 302 two-barrel with the C4 automatic, red in color, with rust that would need to be dealt with. “I drove it into the trailer,” Bill tells, “but later when I pulled the gas tank, I don’t know how it ran — the gas looked like tobacco juice.” Back at his home base, it got the thumbs-down from the missus. “When I got it home, my wife asked, ‘What did you buy that piece of junk for?’” But don’t worry. Bill says that now that the car is done and looking good, she likes it. First order of business was pulling it apart. Bill got right to work removing the driveline and light-duty eight-inch axle. He then got busy stripping the red paint.

ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

So what’s the fastest factorybuilt Mustang? Well, that 13.54 ET says a lot...

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“I wanted to take it back to the original color which was Light Pewter Metallic.” Bring on that orbital sander. Bill was also aware that this humble coupe was holding an option package that is not widely known. “What intrigued me about the car was the Special Value Package that it came with from the factory,” he says. “This package is often referred to as ‘sport coupe.’” It was offered for three months in the spring of 1971 and, quoting from a period newspaper ad, the package included: • Unique grille/sports lamps • Color-keyed bumper • Color-keyed hood and fender moldings • NASA hood • Lower bodyside paint • Dual racing mirrors • Trim rings • E70 WSW tires • Boss tape stripe Base price with the package was $3,008.40.

“Base price of the Special Value Mustang hardtop with the 429 CJ or CJ-R engine was $3,037.40, which required E70 WSW tires,” Bill adds. The period newspaper ad shows a presumably discounted price of $2,624 for a Special Value hardtop with standard equipment only. With the exterior goodies, the package went a long way toward spiffing up the Mustang’s appearance. No mention was made of engines, so we suppose all options were available. Bill replaced the right-side inner fender which had rusted from battery overflow. The rear window frame needed repairs, and the trunk floors were replaced too, which Bill suspects were victims of the leaky rear window. As the car came back together, Bill found that the front urethane bumper would no longer fit, probably due to shrinkage. A chrome bumper was installed while a replacement

is readied. Bill set up the chassis for a new engine, a brawny 429 Cobra Jet. Dan Jensen, a top restorer and engine builder, built it to conform to the Pure Stock Drags’ strict rules. Before installation, it was dyno’d and produced a rompin’ 421.5 hp, over 50 more than the stock 370hp rating. At the 2012 Pure Stock Drags, Bill drove the silver ’Stang to a best ET of 13.74 at 100.99. Last year, he improved on that number by shaving off a full two-tenths, running a low ET of 13.54 at 102.92. That’s on 3.50:1 rear gears. Going up to 3.91 or 4.11 would get the Mustang off the line quicker and probably cut a few more tenths. The car has plenty of engine, and at 3,625 pounds wet with driver, there’s not a lot of extra weight to slow it down. So what’s the fastest factory-built Mustang? Well, that 13.54 ET says a lot, earning it a spot high up on the list of mightiest Mustangs and making it a truly super coupe.

R ESTORATION

Intimidated by befuddling windows that won’t work properly? Here’s how to achieve smooth window operation and great fitment

By Jim Smart

Few things stump us more than classic Mustang window fit and adjustment. However, window tuning doesn’t have to be hard if you understand how the darned thing works. By today’s engineering standards, classic Mustang windows are crude and have a lot of moving parts. With each generation, Mustang window mechanisms became simpler and easier to adjust. Classic Mustang window mechanisms get a bad rap for failure issues, but it isn’t always manufacturing shortcomings that make these old regulators fail — it’s improper adjustment and poor lubrication. Because three Mustang assembly plants produced these classics at a clip of 45 to 70 units an hour, depending on the plant and shift, they weren’t always properly adjusted from the factory. This means a lot of Mustangs rolled off the line with bad window adjustment, causing binding and regulator failure. Add to that accidents and shoddy body-shop repair, and you have a formula for failure. Make no mistake — classic Mustang window adjustment isn’t a nobrainer. It calls for patience and a very methodical step-by-step approach if you’re going to get it right. But believe it or not, your Mustang windows can function smoothly and predictably, given proper adjustment and lubrication. FIRST GENERATION ’65-’66 The most complex Mustang window mechanism is the first-generation ’65-’66 with a two-part mechanism — a primary and secondary regulator. The primary regulator contains the window-crank assembly. The secondary

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regulator is the part that multiplies mechanical advantage (torque) at the window glass. Secondary regulators almost never wear out. They take the primary regulator’s mechanical motion and multiply the torque to move your window glass up or down. It’s the primary regulators that have the tough job. They take the abuse of those frustrated operators who can’t get the window up or down. The exploded views “Door Window Diagram 1” and “Rear Window Diagram 1” show the internal parts and adjustments. To summarize, window adjustment involves two mechanical stops mid-door at the primary regulator, which control up and down limits. The top adjustment controls down limit and bottom adjustment controls top limit. There’s another stop in front at the window glass (F) that controls the glass “up” travel limit as well as glass angle. Vent window assembly and channel also have adjustments via two bolts (A), Allen screws and jam nuts (B and C). The aft window channel also has a stop (H), an Allen screw, which controls window “up” stop and angle. Two bolts at the door-to-B-pillar face (D) control channel positioning. To get all of these elements to work in harmony, adjustment begins with the door closed and windows down. Note: the door must be correctly adjusted to the body first because any movement of the door will also affect the window. Also, before you begin adjustment, generously lubricate the window rollers and tracks with white lithium grease and WD-40. You want slip-slidin’ window tracks for buttery-smooth operation. Run the windows up and down several times to distribute lube.

These illustrations show you the adjustment points for a ’65-’66 Mustang. The primary regulator gets the window crank action. The secondary regulator moves the window glass up and down. The secondary regulator multiplies primary regulator torque for easier operation.

REAR-WINDOW ADJUSTMENT With the door closed, slowly roll the quarter (rear) window up first with all adjustments loose, and ascertain adjustment to the body. The window’s leading edge should be parallel with the gap line between the door and quarter-panel. To achieve this adjustment, move the quarterwindow track assembly forward or back, up or down to get the closed window flush with perimeter weatherstripping. There should be no weatherstrip distortion with the window against outer lip. The window-glass frame should seat firmly against the weatherstrip but not crumple it. With the rear window in place, tighten the window frame first at the two top bolts. Next, secure the bottom “L” bracket bolts. Double check to make sure the window fits right and that it’s parallel with the door end gap. Run it up and down a couple of times to confirm fit. DOOR-WINDOW ADJUSTMENT As with the rear window, begin the doorwindow adjustment with all adjustments loose. With the door closed, slowly roll the window up until it seats against weatherstrip. The weatherstrip should not be distorted, and the window should be seated against the outer weatherstrip’s lip. Run the window down and up several times to center the window channels. Operation should be smooth and almost effortless. With the window up and seated against the weatherstrip, begin adjustment at the two regulator stops. Slide the bottom adjustment to where it contacts the regulator arm solidly and tighten. VENT-WINDOW ADJUSTMENT Once you’re confident the vent window is properly seated against the weatherstrip, tighten “A” bolts as well as “B” and “C” Allen screws and jam nuts. Carefully open the door and tighten the “H”, “D”, and “E” adjustments. Be prepared for disappointment because chances are good your windows will need more adjustment. With all adjustments tight, run the windows up and down a few times and check adjustment. Door- and quarter-windows should be parallel with a uniform 1/4-inch gap with windows up and door closed.

Here are the window-adjustment points on a typical ’65-’66 Mustang left-hand door. There are more on the door jamb area.

ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

R ESTORATION

2 Mid-photo are two window-regulator adjustment points. The upper adjustment controls the window-regulator bottom out limit. The lower adjustment controls the window-regulator top travel limit. The easiest way to remember this is “up-down” and “down-up”. These limits slide up and down (bolt loosened) to control regulator travel limit, which controls how high or low the window travels.

4 This is the forward-window stop adjustment (F), which controls window angle as it relates to both the vent- and rearquarter windows. Lower this stop to raise the window stop height, or raise the stop to lower the window stop height.

5 This is the window idler track (G), which is retained with two flange nuts. The idler track gives the window-regulator’s equalizer arm something to bear against, which gives the regulator mechanical advantage. The idler track is not adjustable in ’65-’66 models.

3 This is the right-hand door. On the left are two adjustments (B and C) made with both a 1/2-inch socket and an Allen wrench. These adjustments control the forward-window channel angle and vent window. The 1/2-inch jam nuts are loosened to free up the Allen-screw adjustment. Two bolts on top (A) secure the vent window. These bolts are loosened to adjust the vent-window angle. Keep in mind, the forward bolt threads into diecast metal that is easily stripped. The aft bolt screws into a steel nutplate.

MUSTANGMAGAZINEONLINE.COM

7 6 These are the primary regulator up and down stops. The top stop limits down travel. The bottom stop limits top travel. This is where window adjustment begins and ends. Do an initial adjustment here. Then, when you’ve made all of the other adjustments, adjust here again.

Rear quarter-window adjustment is simple with one adjustable bottom stop (arrow), as well as an “L” bracket that moves in and out to adjust window angle relative to the body and door window glass. The entire quarter-window assembly adjusts too, to get the window angle even with the door glass and body. The line between the quarter and door glass should be parallel with the line between the door and quarter-panel.

8 When you study a ’67-’68 door closely, changes are quite apparent, yet basics remain the same. The vent-window assembly (right) still uses three adjustment points, and two Allen set screws with jam nuts control channel angle. Two bolts topside control the vent-window angle relative to the body. The idler bracket (mid-door, left) is adjustable. On the far left is another Allen set screw and jam nut affair that controls rear channel angle. Both channels must be in perfect parallel for smooth window function.

Fewer parts and adjustments characterize the ’67-’68 Mustang window regulator. The basic principles of ’65-’66 adjustment carry forward for ’67-’68.

SECOND GENERATION ’67-’68 Mustang’s ’67 redesign wasn’t just about styling, but also simplicity and fewer parts. The new single regulator offered easier installation and adjustment. As in ’65-’66, vent-window assembly and adjustment is made with two bolts up top and two Allen screw adjustments (J, M, L, K, and DD) with jam nuts. The new window regulators do not have stops, which eliminates that adjustment. Where ’67’68 differs from ’65-’66 is the idler track, also known as the equalizer arm bracket. It’s adjustable for ’67-’68. The rear-window channel is adjusted at two points — from the passenger cabin with a single Allen set screw and jam nut (E and H) at the bottom, and at the top, two adjustment screws (A, D, and FF) to control channel angle. Fewer adjustments make window alignment easier. As in the ’65-’66, there’s a forward upper limit stop (F), which controls travel and angle.

9 The idler track is adjustable for ’67-’68 models.

R D ESTORATION

15 The window-top stop controls glass angle and travel limit.

10 The greatest cause of window-regulator failure is poor window alignment and the lack of lubrication. This is a low-mileage original ’68 Mustang with a binding driver’s window. Cause? Poor alignment from the factory — the cause of most window function issues. Both window channels must be in perfect parallel with each other or binding will occur. Binding causes extreme window-regulator stress and early failure.

WINDOW REGULATOR REPLACEMENT

This Allen set screw and jam nut adjustment controls aft window-channel alignment at the bottom by moving the channel in or out. Adjust it while running the window up and down. When window-glass travel becomes smoothest, you’ve got proper adjustment. What makes ’67-’68 different from ’65-’66 is an improved aft windowtrack design employing rollers instead of glassto-track.

16 California Mustang and many others offer everything needed to get your windows working properly again. This reproduction window regulator is a high-quality piece designed to outlast your Mustang’s original equipment. All you need to do during installation is give it proper adjustment along with plenty of white lithium grease for long life and smooth operation.

11 Aft window-channel adjustment involves removing the door-to-B-pillar grommet to access stop adjustment.

14 12 This external adjustment controls aft windowchannel alignment by moving in or out.

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Vent-window adjustment for ’67-’68 models is identical to ’65-’66 with Allen set screws and jam nuts. Bottom adjustment controls the channel angle. Top adjustment controls the vent-window assembly angle as it relates to the weatherstrip and body.

17 Window-regulator removal and replacement isn’t as hard as you might believe. Window glass needs to be secured so it won’t drop when you remove the regulator. Four 1/2-inch bolts secure the regulator. Once these bolts are removed, the regulator slides out of each track and through this opening.

ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

R D ESTORATION

18 We’ve found that many times you don’t need a new regulator, just some fresh lube and an adjustment. Bench-test the regulator before you toss it. If it operates smoothly, shaft side play is minimal, and the teeth don’t show excessive wear, you have a healthy regulator.

MUSTANGMAGAZINEONLINE.COM

19 We’re installing a new reproduction regulator from California Mustang, which will provide years of trouble-free service given proper adjustment and plenty of lubrication. Based on personal experience, we’ve found that white grease and WD-40 offers smooth operation and less window-regulator stress.

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R D ESTORATION

Thoroughly clean all tracks in the window mechanism using a strong detergent and brush. Get it all out. Now youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re ready to apply fresh, clean white grease to the tracks.

Feed the new regulator into the door the same way the old one came out. Easy does it. The door has sharp edges.

The new regulator attaches just like the old one. It might take some finesse to work it into all the tracks at all positions at the same time.

These fine-thread machine screws for the window track received a substantial amount of torque at the factory, which makes them challenging to remove. When itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time for installation, use a thread locker and a lot of torque for security.

Fasten the assembly back together and check for smooth, hitch-free movement. The final step is the alignment process outlined earlier.

SOURCES CALIFORNIA MUSTANG

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ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

R P ESTORATION

FIX MY MUSTANG

by Jeff Yergovich

PROBLEM? WE HAVE A SOLUTION Q

WHEEL DEAL

I have a set of vintage 15x7 Magnum 500 wheels that are in so-so condition. They’ve got curb rash, some rust, peeling chrome, scratches, and that type of wear, plus one has an out-of-round rim where it looks like someone might have hit a bad pothole or something. Is it better to spend the money to fix the originals, or buy a set of repros? The originals have the Ford part number stamped into the backside of the rim. What is that worth, and what do you think it might be worth down the road? Even if I buy the repros for my car, would it be worth restoring those original Magnums? Edwin Rose Lincoln, NE

It sounds to me like the wheels you have are pretty rough. Unless you’re restoring the car to thoroughbred division MCA, you’re money ahead to buy the repros, especially if you’re going to drive the car. The repro wheels are very nice and in all appearances have the correct look, less the Ford part numbers. Restoring your original wheels could add up to three times the cost of repros, and if a rim is damaged too badly for repair, it will get replaced anyway.

DON’T BLOW YOUR TOP

This year I’ll be replacing the top on my ’66 Mustang convertible. I’ve never had a convertible before, and this is my first top replacement. I want to do it right, even though I won’t be doing the job myself. What should I know before I get into this, and what are the common mistakes and pitfalls that happen when installing a new convertible top? Anything I should watch to make sure the shop isn’t taking shortcuts? What’s the best material? Any other jobs I should tackle as long as the top’s off? I’m a newbie, and I want to make sure my top gets installed right. Leaks lead to smell, mildew, and rusty floors. Yuck. Nathan Jaenie Branson, MO

Most Mustang suppliers use tops from EZ-ON Tops. The fit of these tops is very good, but in any top replacement, the quality of your finished top is all up to the installer. Pads under the top must be repaired or replaced properly for the top to look right. The top frame must work freely, and parts that show wear should be replaced at that time before the top skin is installed. Bow height is VERY important. That is the measurement from the back bow to the base of the convertible boot molding at the center of the back window. In 1966 your bow height is 20.5 inches. Pick a trim shop that has lots of experience with convertible tops, and your installation should be fine. Remember: it’s still a convertible. It will leak somewhere, often around the door glass which was typical even when the car was new.

I’M COMPRESSED

I need a new compressor for my air conditioner (’70 Mach 1), and I’m not sure if I want to go with the original type or a modern Sanden. It’s a tradeoff, and both ways have their advantages and disadvantages. The original is an energy hog that takes a big bite out of the horsepower to run. But it’s original looking, and I like that look a lot. Problem is, I find myself not running the air conditioner even when it’s getting hot out, because when I turn it on, you can feel the “thunk” through the whole car. The power loss makes it feel like I just tossed an anchor out of the trunk, and my gas mileage falls off too. The Sanden is a superior design. My A/C shop tells me it takes less than half the horsepower to run as the old original. It’s quiet; it’s efficient. But it also sits up high in the engine compartment where it’s impossible to ignore, and it’s silver and round, and just stands out to me from a visual standpoint. It’s screaming, “I’m not from around here.” What to do? Can you help me figure this out? If only I could put the Sanden inside the original. Charles Watterson Xenia, OH 82

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Make your decision based on what you’re doing with the car. If it’s a show car, go with the original. If it’s just a driver, do the Sanden so you can drive and enjoy.

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R P ESTORATION Q

CURRENT AFFAIR

I just wanted to pass along my experience in hopes that it will help other Mustangers and maybe save them some money. I have bought a lot of conventional lead-acid batteries, but never seemed to get much life out of them. They always conked out well before their warranty period ended. I learned to always save my receipts, and the seller honored the pro-rata warranty, so I got partial credit toward another. But as much as it was a money issue, I was always having to shell out money for another battery and never got the five years of dependable service from my five-year battery. It was also a hassle wondering if my car was going to start every time I shut it off. Four years ago, I bought a dry-cell battery. It cost more, but I’ve been wondering, did it really? I haven’t had to replace it, so maybe it hasn’t cost more, and even it if did, it has never failed to start my engine regardless of the weather, or if the engine was hot, or if I needed to crank on it a little more than normal. And it definitely has more reserve power that the lead-acid batteries. I’m the kind of guy who’s always shopped price carefully, and I’ve bought a lot of lead-acid batteries because they’re cheaper. But buying the dry cell has worked out very well for me in my Mustang, which does its share of sitting. I hope this helps others who may be experiencing the same frustration. Gene Matazofsky Arlington, TX

THEM’S THE BRAKES

What can be done about brakes that pull? I’ve got drums all the way around on my ’68 fastback, and it pulls pretty hard to the right when I stab the brakes. I’ve learned to anticipate it and correct to the left to hold it in the lane, but it still does a lot of dancing side to side when coming to a stop. Any idea what’s causing this or how to fix it? A. J. Galloway Mount Morris, IL

Dry-cell or gel-cell batteries are definitely the way to go. There are many brand names out there, and some of them can last over 10 years. For those of us who go the concours direction, we found that Antique Auto Battery now installs a drycell battery in their concours case. I learned this as I was talking with a representative from Energy Systems out of Warrensburg, Missouri, where the batteries are made. He advised me that his company made the dry-cell batteries to fit in the Antique Auto Battery case. They cost more, but in my opinion, are well worth it.

It sounds as if your front brakes need a total overhaul. After you’ve disassembled the brakes, check the wheel cylinders and the bore size of them. Make sure they are the same left and right. A larger bore size on one or the other can cause a pull when brakes are applied. Also, one of the more common things we find is that the front brake-hose flex line gets restricted from age and causes less fluid to get down to the wheel cylinder. I would replace old lines as a safety precaution. Make sure the brake shoes show even wear and that all adjusters are free and not frozen up. Brake drums can wear out and can only be turned so many times. Usually the maximum tolerance can be found in the service manual. Once you have checked all the above, adjust the shoes to have a very slight drag, and be sure it’s the same left and right. This should cure your problem. Enjoy the ride from there!

ASK THE EXPERT Jeff Yergovich, president of Lee’s Summit, Missouri-based R&A Motorsports, has restored national show-winning and record-breaking Shelbys and Mustangs since 1975. Find more at www.r-amotorsports.com. Need some help with your Mustang? Ask the expert. Email us at tom@themustangmagazine.com,or write us at Fix My Mustang, P.O. Box 41, Lakeland, FL 33802.

MUSTANGMAGAZINEONLINE.COM

FIGHT THE OXIDATION

I just pulled out my car’s distributor and gave it a do-it-yourself rebuild and refurb. I took it all apart and used the Eastwood Company Small Job Soda Blaster that I read about in your magazine a couple of years ago. It did a great job of removing all the grease and grime and dull look on the aluminum housing. But it’s been back in for about a year now, and I’m noticing some white blotches on it where it looks like oxidation is trying to get a foothold again. Do you know of a good clear or other treatment that will hold up for the long haul, survive the engine heat, and preserve the look of the natural aluminum without resorting to a paint? Armando Julius Petersburg, VA

It sounds like your car is sitting in a damp environment. We see this a lot on some cars we have out of Florida. Putting clear on the part will not solve the problem. Clean it good with aluminum wash, and coat it with Boeshield to help it last. There is NO long-term fix. It will be up to you to clean a couple of times a year. Just as you would care for the outside of your car, you must also do the same under the hood. Boeshield and Eagle One’s Aluminum Wash and Cleaner are some of the products we use.

ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

H ISTORY FROM THE ARCHIVES Reprinting Mustangâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s History Issued to help salesman understand the new Mustang, 1965 Mustang Key Selling Features was not distributed to the public. An obscure bit of vintage Ford literature today, Mustang Magazine is reprinting the complete booklet, a few pages at a time. The series began in Issue 15. These are pages 9 through 13.

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ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

H ISTORY

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ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

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LAST PAGE CULTURE

PLASTIC PONIES For the juvenile on his way to a real metal Mustang, there were plenty of plastic scale-model kits, pedal cars, and of course plastic toys like this trio. These “Cobras,” one green and one hot pink, date from 1969 and represent the wildly popular ’69 Mach 1, although portions of the car, such as the fenders, doors, and grille, look like they borrowed from ’65-’66 tooling. Even so, the Mach 1 comes with Redline tires, Cragar-esque mags, and cardboard packaging thick with period flavor. The boxes boast a dictionary of Ford buzz words: Cobra, Cobra Jet, Wide-Ovals, Air Foil, Hood Scoop, Red Side Walls, Cobra Jet Power. The bigger ’65 fastback, in similar packaging, plays up the wild-horse theme instead. “Yellow is the only color I’ve seen the big car in,” says collector Rick Radke. They were manufactured by the Processed Plastic Company in Montgomery, Illinois, which remained in business until a couple of years ago, and would have sold in discount stores like Woolworth’s, T G & Y, Grant’s, and K-Mart, probably retailing for around $1, according to Rick. The two Mach 1s carry item number #460, while the big yellow fastback is item #499. Rick says that today the cars by themselves are worth “in the $20-$50 range for just the car in decent shape.” But the packaging adds value. In good shape with their original packaging, Rick says that any of the three are valued at $100-$150.

MUSTANGMAGAZINEONLINE.COM

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ISSUE 23 MUSTANG MAGAZINE

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Some parts are not legal for sale or use in California with emission controlled vehicles. Prices subject to change. Mustangs Unlimited is an independently owned and operated company and is not affiliated or associated with Ford Motor Company.