2016 YEAR : 01 VOL. 01 JA N.
“I’am a worker; I’m not a famous surfer. I know how to win heats and I know I have the skill”.
2015 WORLD SURF LEAGUE CHAMPION
ADRIANO DE SOUZA
JUST ADD WAT E R
SHOP BILLABONG SURF CAPSULE
U S . B I L L A B O N G . C O M
BIGWAVE'S staff is the youngest in all of surf media and its energy is reflected in every image, word and edit. We live the life we celebrate and practice what we preach. Our passports are full. Our stories are rich. We’re dripping wet from the last session and our phones are buzzing with evening plans. Combine that joie de vivre with our unparalleled access to surfing’s superstars and it’s easy to see why we tell the stories you want to hear. Maybe they come from a trip to uncharted waves, the latest WCT event or in a profile of surfing’s next superstar. Maybe they’re conveyed in a magazine article, an online flipbook or a full-length movie. It doesn’t matter. The voice, the message and the fun remain the same. BIGWAVE MAGAZINE - FOREVER YOUNG.
The BEST SURFER of the week
JULIAN COREY
EDITOR: Andrea’s Fernadez DRAFTING: Joseph Ascanio DESIGNER: Marcos Villamizar PROGRAMMING COORDINATOR: Boris Orjuela
SCHEDULING ASSISTANT: Brayan Camargo EDITORIAL BOARD: Eduardo Stigol SUBSCRIPTION: ISSUU PRINTING: MQI C.A
ADVERTISING SALES: Romina Guerra (571) 317 4941 PUBLISHER: ID DARIAS WEBSITE: www.bigwave.com
CONTENTS HIGHLIGHTS 4
CHRIS GARDEN
8
SURFING: BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARD
10
ADRIANO DE SOUZA
WHERE’S THE POINT 11
14
BIG SURF AOTEAROA
16
ISLAND STYLE
PICK YOUR BOARD 18
FIVE THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN ORDERING YOUR NEXT BOARD
SURF ART 23
KIMI WERNER
26
LET’S MAKE MUSIC
POSTERS 14
28
KELLY SLATER
32
MEN BEHIND
THE MAG
INTERVIEW BY CORY SCOTT | PHOTOS BY CHRIS GARDEN
A column to give a Little love back to the unsung heroes that put this mag together
“I first met Chris Garden in the early 2000’s while shooting on assignment in the deep south. I was still immersed in the medium of film and had to wait weeks till I saw my shots, so when Chris pulled out his digital camera, snapping away with instant gratification I was slightly jealous. He scrolled though a few recent images on his screen that simply blew my mind. At the time quality was far off that required for
publication, but the waves, lineups and composition of his shots were faultless and they were the kind of waves that many only see in their dreams. Chris had taken the digital revolution by the horns and in the coming year as technology grew, so did Chris’s skills behind the lens, to a point that to open an email from him has me excited as to what new angle, spot, or mind blowing wave will open up on my screen.”
- Cory Scoott, Editor of New Zealand Surfing Magazine. HIGH HTS 05
How did you get into photography? I’ve been taking photos most of my life but being a typically poor teenager of the film era, I could never afford to take as many photos as I would like. Around 2003 however, digital cameras started coming onto the scene, and I was quick to jump on board. Around this time, a few of my mates that I used to go on surf trips with moved away, so I often found myself cruising the coast solo, looking for waves and taking more and more photos. I started getting a few good shots, so saved up my pennies and invested in some decent gear. The rest is history.
Shooting surf is obviously a passion of yours. What else do you shoot? I love shooting landscapes, though never seem to be able to find the time to get
amongst it. I travel a fair bit too, so enjoy capturing the amazing scenes and people along the way. The last couple of years I’ve been getting into shooting weddings. Never thought I’d do it but surprisingly It’s heaps of fun. Lots of pressure, and the day is often intense, but it’s rewarding and I get to meet lots of interesting people who are having an epic day.
What do you look for when shooting surf or any subject for that matter? Perfection. In terms of surf that means hollow. I’venever been interested in shooting fat waves… the bigger and slabbier the better! Also try to give waves a context, using foreground and background not only to frame the wave but also to tell a bit of a story. Broadly speaking, I guess I often find myself looking for strong compositions, bold colors and unique angles.
You spend a lot of time shooting from the water in a region that is renowned not only for its frigid waters, but also big fish of the biting kind. Have you had any close calls, or run ins? Yeah, I guess there’s probably a few big biteys lurking around down here. I’ve seen a couple from land but, fortunately, no close call in the water… that I know of. To be honest though, I hardly ever give them a thought. When you’re swimming around at a bombie a kilometer offshore, it’s not going to do any good thinking about sharks who are having an epic day.
Water shooting lends itself to putting you in some dangerous situation. Have you had any near death experiences chasing the perfect shot?
luckily down here the wave quality usually makes up for what the lighting lacks.
Aside from getting cut up on reefs and stuck in nasty currents, I’ve been fairly lucky shooting in the water, touch wood. That said, there have been plenty of hairy moments. Shooting in the water often gives me far more rush than riding waves ever did.
Who inspires you?
What inspires you to head out each day, with the challenge of creating something, sometimes in less than inspiring weather conditions? The search for perfection I guess, both in terms of finding perfect waves and taking great photos. Every photo I’ve ever taken I can pick apart and find ways that it could be better. That’s what’s kept me so obsessed with surf photography – there’s always a better wave that will break, and deep south definitely has its added challenges, and if I waited around for good light to coincide with good waves, my camera would sit in its bag most of the time. Down here you hava to make the most of whatever the weather throws at you. Regardless of the conditions, there’s always an opportunity for a good shot, and
Actually, I try not to spend too much time looking at other people’s photos. I’m really keen to let my style develop on its own, and try not to be influenced too much by other photographers. That said, there are a lot of photographers whose work I really like, and too many to single out just a few. In life, people who inspire me are those who are out marking the most of every opportunity and enjoying what they do. Nothing is more depressing to me than people who seem stuck in a situation that doesn’t work for them. There’s absolutely no reason why anyone shouldn’t be doing something they enjoy the majority of the time, and it’s never too late to make a change.
To check out more of Chris’s work go to www.chrisgarden.com HIGHLIGHTS 07
S U R F I N G BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARD WORDS AND PHOTO BY WAXSURFCO
Surfers are typically a green lot but surfboard manufacture can be a toxic business. Surfer and AUT product desing graduate Michael Grobelny has designed a strong, lightweight and eco-friendly wooden surfboard that eliminates the use of polyurethane foam, fiberglass and poluester resin. Inspired by the Hawaiians who invented surfing with solid wooden surfboards, Gobelny research had a variety with solid wooden surfboards, Grobelny research had a variety of timber looking for something strong, light and sustainable. He settled on paulownia, a fast-growing, locally available wood that is becoming popular
in surfboard construction. In AUT’s product design workshop, Grobelny had use of a CNC (computer numerical controlled) router, which he used to shape the overall form of the surfboard and remove excess material to create an internal honeycomb structure. This buoyant body was then sealed with a bamboo veneer deck before being coated with a biodegradable varnish. The resulting board, weighing 3.3 kilograms and high performance qualities obtained by synthetic short boards. To ensure a longer life span than lighwight synthetic boards, Grobelny chose natural materials with a high resilience. “The robust nature of the bamboo veneer provided a great natural alternative to sein and fiberglass. Both bamboo and paulownia are
extremely fast growing, making them ideal for sustainably designed products, as they are more easily sourced from a sustainably managed natural plantation.” Gobelny’s wooden surfboard is now a finalist in the IDEA International design awards competition, run by the industrial Designers Society of America.
HIGHLIGHTS 09
ADRIANO DE SOUZA 2015 WORLD SURF LEAGUE CHAMPION
This year has been a wild one. It was a year filled with ups, downs, unexpected turns and, at some points, chilling adversity. But ADS isn’t used to cake walks
HIGHLIGHTS 11
He’s devoted his entire life to getting where he is now, and his head-downand-handle attitude leading up to Pipeline was nothing less than respectable. He knows that the coattails of innate talent weren’t his ride to the Title that he’s been chasing for ten years now – but that chase has finally come to an end. And as Adriano stands atop the podium at Pipeline, in front of a crowd full of friends, fans, and peers, he can hoist that cup high above his head with the satisfaction of knowing that he’s earned every bit of its glory. Day after day. Heat after heat. Nobody has ever worked harder. The efforts throughout the year of fellow contenders Mick Fanning, Gabriel Medina, Filipe Toledo, Julian Wilson and Owen Wright are all noteworthy catalysts of the back and forth battle that led to De Souza’s win, and the 2015 WSL season will be remembered as one of the most entertaining yet. He’s just beaten Mason Ho in the semi of the Billabong Pipe Masters… If Adriano lost to Mason he would have lost the title to Mick by a mere 450 points, but he maintained the pressure and used his years of experience to hold his nerve in a low scoring heat. He’s become the second Brazilian to win the title after years of being a danger man. He faces the other Brazilian world title holder, Gabriel Medina, in the final shortly. The pressure was on Adriano de Souza. With a victory against the Hawaiian, “Mineirinho” would clinch a maiden WSL title. But the Brazilian wanted it so much that he ended up stealing the heat from Ho’s fins, in a neurotic low-scoring affair. Adriano de Souza is the 2015 World Surf League champion. He dedicated his win to his brother who purchased his first surfboard for him for seven dollars and his friend the late Ricardo dos Santos. “It’s an incredible feeling and so special in dedication to my good friend Ricardo dos Santos. About midway through the year I thought Mick deserved the world title more than me. I wanted to hug Mick’s mum, but I was scared because we were in a world title race; The day of my life arrived. I need to have a break and get back there again. When I lost in Portugal, I was so sad. Jamie [O’Brien] helped me here, and I want to dedicate this to my brother as well, who bought me my first surfboard for seven dollars and now I’m on top of the world. I thank God. I feel blessed, and I will carry the soul of Ricardo here on Earth.” an emotional Adriano de Souza told in tears.
HIGHLIGHTS 13
BIG SURF AOTEAROA New Zealand’s premier big wave arena, Papatowai, awakes after going into hibernation With the mastservice calling a rising 8m SW sell for Foveaux Strait only two days from the event, this swell and storm was lining up to be a once in a lifetime opportunity to surf some of the biggest waves ever ridden in NZ waters. Papatowai has for years been regarded as New Zealand’s very own Mavericks (One of the world’s biggest waves in Northern California) providing surfers with the opportunity to paddle into waves exceeding the ultimate ride from top to bottom as the swell focuses on what surfers refer to as “The Bowl” jacking up to a steep vertical drop where the surfer must have 100% commitment to turn their 9ft+ surfboard around and paddle with all their power and speed to catch the wave. In recent years the introduction of personal water craft (PWC) of Jet Ski’s has allowed surfers to skip the drop and already be riding the wave strapped in on a much shorter surfboard as the wave hit’s The Bowl allowing the surfer a greater opportunity to get inside the wave on take-off, getting barreled or maneuvering on the face of the wave with sharper turns. The introduction of Jet Skis has also made what is a very high risk sport a much safer option with no surfer having ever died tow surfing due to the PDF’s or life jackets worn, no leg rope required and powerful safety machine (PWC) ready to pick up any surfer in danger. In comparison paddle surfers are
regarded as the ultimate watermen with the commitment and courage required to face such massive walls of water a special talent only held by a small number of athletes all around the world. Sunday proved to be a day for both paddle surfers and tow surfers with one of the biggest swells ridden over the last few years’ peaking through the morning at a solid 30-40ft+ on the face of the wave with offshore winds keeping the faces relatively clean and perfect for both disciplines. A small handful of Dunedin and Christchurd big wave surfers were joined by ex-National Champ Motu mataa, Miles Ratima and Doug Young who travelled down from the North Island the day before the swell to surf one of the biggest swells to hit the spot in years. Having already won the biggest paddle in award in the Oakley ASL. Australasian Big Wave awards a record 2 times at Papatowai, New Zealand’s Doug Young was also one of the first surfers to pioneer the break, paddle surfing it every time it got big from the turn of the century. “I have never in all my years of surf forecasting seen the Mestservice call an 8m swell in Foveaux Strait! Sure I have seen it that big over in Milford, but I knew that this was something special and had to drop everything to be on the spot,” he said. Taranaki surfing royalty Motu Mataa had not been back to Papatowai since the last Rex Von Huban Big wave event in 2003 and was towed into one of the biggest
waves ridden on the day, measuring in at well over 40Ft on the face. “I have surfed al around the world at some of the best spots with some of the best surfers but that one wave was the biggest and best ride I have ever had in my bro’s! it has re-ignited a fire inside me to paddle surf big waves and chase down the biggest waves the world has to offer” said Motu.
“That wave has put me into a new realm of life! The feeling was like nothing else and all I want to do now is spend the rest of my life trying to get waves as big if not bigger than that wave” exclaimed Jono. Young 20 year old Christchurch surfer Jono Lockhart (aka J Diggly), now residing in Dunedin, paddle surfed into the biggest wave of the day on “Big Red” a backup board owned by a small syndicate of big wave chargers. The wave measured in at around 40ft on the face and along with Motu’s wave has been entered into the 2012 Oakley ASL Big Wave Awards. With the Big Wave season coming to an end in the Southern Hernisphere, New Zealand has once again solidified itself as a true big wave nation with genuine big wave surfers ready to commit to the biggest wave the ocean can throw at our coastlines.
WHERE’S THE POINT 15
ISLAND STYLE Norfolk Island is a Small island in the Pacific Ocean located between Australia, New Zealand and New Caledonia What is it about island living that sets a pace of life that is two parts relaxation, two parts lifestyle and one-part work? We were fortunate to visit Norfolk Island recently and this tittle South Pacific Rock impressed us.
and 15 body boarders on the rock, so they’re very welcoming to newcomers in the water. it feels a lot like surfing in Dunedin, but without the bootless.
It reminded us a lot of Dunedin’s lifestyle. When we weren’t dining on fresh seafood (trumpeter is like blue cod up there). Kayaking, exploring the national park, skin diving or mountain biking we were surfing across coral reefs and in beautiful rocky bays. We also met some amazing down-to-earth locals.
We arrived home in time to catch filmmaker Damon Meade, of LongWhiteCloud. TV, shooting Maz Quin, Bobby Hansen, Luke Cederman, Matt Scorringe and a few locals at St Killda for an upcoming release. Making a surf film is a real challenge that requires the waves, wind, surfers and filmmaker to all perfom at their best… in the same moment. I think I will stick to stills for now. Hopefully more swell on the way for everyone-maybe even a puff from the north.
In the ‘90s surf artist: Mark Sutherland created a cartoon character called Gonad Man who lived a notorious life of surfing, women and adventure. He when to live on an island to surf perfect waves (among the other activities he developed a cult following for) for the rest of his days. It was every surfer’s utopian dream. Well, I think we met the real-life version on Norfolk Island. Checking the surf at the reed one morning we met the inspiring Brett Bargaining – or Bergs as he is known. Younger surfer’s described him as “the Kelly Slater of Norfolk Island” – he certainly knew how to surf a wave in the pocket and his bottom turns were a mirror image of Tom C Carroll’s. Power surfing certainly isn’t forgotten on this island. Bergs is a builder on Norfolk Island and drops tools at the first hint of the right wind grooming an open ocean swell at one of the many world-class waves that break around the island. And he’s a master of them all. There are only about 15 surfers
See you at the beach…
WHERE’S THE POINT 17
FIVE THING TO CONSIDER WHEN ORDERING YOUR NEXT BOARD WORDS BY AARON CARRERA / PHOTO BY ANGELA ROCCO
We’re always looking for our next magic board, but let’s face it, experimenting Isn’t cheap. To increase the odds of picking up a stick that you’ll actually love, we reached out to several board manufactures for their advice on finding the unique combination elements that will suit your surfing.
Find the right foam and stringer The species of wood in a stringer and the layup of the stringer will change the strength and stiffness of your board. There are many options available to shapers to get their desired characteristics to suit the shape and construction. “The foam type, density, and flexural properties will affect both the feeling under your feet, as well as the feeling compressional strength and how well it supports the load of your laminate. If your foam that is more rigid will hold up against compressions and support the load of the laminate, but if it is too rigid or dense it will feel hard and dead under your feet, which is the easiest way to tell. Choosing the right foam to work with
construction of your laminate will result in a board that is durable, and feels great when you ride it” –Hayden Cox, contructor of Hayden Shapes.
Notice the difference in tail design “The average surfer probably doesn’t have the experience base to understand surfboards – they just want a board that looks cool or different, or that they think will work well. But what they don’t understand is how the tall can affect the board’s performance. In the end, it’s all relative to the experience level of the surfer. A pro may have several boards in their quiver with the same shape, but all with different tail designs, round tail, squash tail, diamond tail, with each one designed for slightly different conditions. Less experienced surfers may not feel these subtle differences, but will feel the more exaggerated differences and tend to accept the shape of certain models as they are offered up. Example: “a short, wide board with a very square tail will ride much differently than the same one with a rounded squash. The average surfer will accept
what is offered up in the store as a particular model. A more experienced surfer will say, ‘Please make me one, but let’s reduce the tail area a little and add some curve to the cutline through the fin area.’ Hoping it will ride a little better and have smoother transitions through turns without giving up too much of the tail area their looking for.”- Rusty Preisendorfer, Rusty Surfboards.
Know the advantages of a longer and thicker board “We make 14-year-old Kanoa Igarashi a bigger-than-average board for his size each time he goes through a growth spurt. I asked that he ride a longer and slightly thicker board at least once or twice a week to continue developing his rail and power surfing. It’s so easy to get caught up in riding a board that’s shorter and technically suited for the most highperformance surfing that you see kids forgetting to use their rail. We wanted to make sure this never happens to Kanoa or the other kids on our team. Having him ride bigger boards just keeps him focused on developing all aspects of
his surfing and doesn’t let him forget the importance of power surfing in a wellrounded repertoire. A prime example is 18-year-old Conner Coffin. Throughout his youth, Conner came into the factory and borrowed Dane Reynolds’ old boards, which at the time were a good half a foot too big as well as too thick for him. He would just ride them on good days at Rincon, and today you can really see the benefits of this in his style.” –Travis Lee, Team Manager
Understand surfboard volume “Until the CAD programs (Surfboard design software) became wellestablished, it was next to impossible to measure volume on boards. Now that most all CAD programs tell us the numerical volume, we can track it as a tool at our disposal for well over a decade, but I didn’t start tracking it until 4 to 5 years ago. Since 2010, we have strived to write the volume as one for our dimensions on every board we make. Once a surfer has a board with the volume written on it, then he can start to learn how much he feels he needs. It almost need to be universally written on all boards, by all makers, just like
width or thickness. However, the tricky thing is now that we have opened the door for this, it causes issues and some confusion. A customer will often request a model for their standard dimensions, as well as the amount of volume they want. The two will often clash, and you must now customize the file. Example: “Someone orders a 6’0” x 18.50” x 2.25” Driver model, then tosses out the 25.5 litres of volume. I have to open the master file and change the dimensions to what he requests: 26.50 litres… what do I do? The only way to do it without changing the three major dimensions (length, width, and thickness) is to adjust the foil and rail shape. Tjem I would need to taper the deck and rails and/or possibly narrow the nose-to-tail foil and/or outline – just to shave off a full litre of volume. It’s a big can of worms.” – Matt Biolos, …Lost Surfboards.
Know the appropriate dimensions for a certain model “A common mistake surfer will make is that they’ll order a small-wave board or a smaller, shorter, and wider board
and expect it to work in all conditions. Surfboards are a lot like golf clubs. Each board has a place in your quiver, and if you utilize a three or four board quiver then you can effectively surf any type of condition. By understanding the purpose and the sizing of board, you’re going to end up with a much better result. If you buy a board and it’s not the right sizing for your ability, or for your weight, you end up not utilizing all the elements of the board and what it’s intended to do. Example: “You’ll have a guy that has been riding a 6’2” x 18 ¼ x 2 3/8” highperformance short board with a narrow nose and narrow tail, hoping it will last him 10 years. He goes into a shop and says. ‘I want to try one of those White Diamonds (Roberts’ shorter and wider model). ‘He then goes to the rack and picks up a 6’2” and says, “Man this thing feels really big! How come it’s so big?” The reason is, because he should have been looking for a 5’8” or a 5’9”, due to this size and what he’s accustomed to riding.” – Robert Weiner PICK YOUR BOARD 19
SURF ART
KIMI WERNER
BL ANK SHOE CANVASES
Follow Kimi Werner’s hand as she begins drawing on a white canvas
BY CASH LAMBERT | PHOTO: KEOKI
A medley of fish and other sea creatures (specifically, octopus) that frequently end up on her dinner table. The outdoors and its aforementioned beauty has been more that both work and play for the Hawai’I native who has quite a shimmering resume winner of the National Spearfishing Championships in 2008, an induction into the Hawai’i Freediving Hall of Fame five years later, and even serving as Patagonia’s Provisions Ambassador, along with a heap of other sponsorships for the amount of time she’s dedicated towards conservation efforts. Holding onto a great white shark’s dorsal fin should fit under ‘experience’, right? “My parents always taught to never take more than you need, and to always take care of the land and the ocean, because it’s what will take care of you, “Kimi says with her soft but direct voice. “It wasn’t until I was getting back into diving as an adult that I started thinking of as being environmentally conscious.” Thus, art organically developed as a way to vent the sights and scars she’d seen. “My love for art came from my love for nature and that’s what keeps me inspired to paint,” Kimi says “I don’t always think about why I react the way I do or why I do what I do in the water. It’s instinctual. That’s how I feel when I’m painting. I just put a color down and know that color I’m going to go for next and if I actually try and think about it, that interrupts the process.” Although many of the blank canvases she’s been recently drawing on are made to hang on the wall of art galleries, others are in the shape of pairs of white Vans shoes. Vans, known for its frequent work with sustainability measures, partnered with the conservationist for a campaign “playing off the idea of ‘treading lightly’”. According to Kimi “The idea for an art show came … that I could paint the shoes and we could collaborate.” But the event, taking place on December 5 at the North Shore Community Land Trust Benefit for the Country and backed by Vans, isn’t Kimi’s first involvement with donating her art. Last year, the philanthropist sold 10 pays of painted Vans shoes with proceeds split between two non-profit organizations. Sustainable Coastlines and Malama Pupukea Waimea. SURF ART 23
“I found out that Jack actually said he’d match the profit,” Kimi says with a laugh “That was a total coincidence.” And at last year’s North Shore Community Land Trust Benefit for the Country, she donated yet another pair of painted shoes as well a painting to the silent auction. “The painting was a collaboration that was framed by Ben Wilkinson,a pro surfer here on the North Shore who is very environmentally conscious,” the artist says. “He made a beautiful frame out of reclaimed wood that he found. That painting ended up selling to John Florence, for $750. +And the donated pair of shoes were won by Pete Johnson, Jack’s brother.” This year, she’s donating all of the winnings from her hand drawn and painted 15 pairs of shoes to the North Shore Community Land Trust. “I thought it was the best idea, since the two pieces the year before were big bids for them,” Kimi Werner says. “They stand behind what I do: they’re not just for the perseveration on the North Shore. Nothing makes me more proud than to see local community taking an issue into its own hands and going for it. What will she be painting? “Mainly ocean art and all of my passions: fish, coral, octopus and underwater seascapes. I think it’s really important when choosing something to purpose that you are authentically passionate about it. For me, it’s the ocean. The reef. All the animals that live in it.
mindset, they have a bottom line, what they can get out of places and out of a community. They’re not thinking about how to give back and how to leave a place even better. The fact that Vans is willing to collaborate with such an issue in Hawai’i … that’s what they all should do It’s setting a great example.” Which according to Kimi, is not only what she believes in, but it’s also what the entire concept of ‘tread lightly’ is built on. “It’s important to live an examined life. What Vans is doing is a perfect example of that, if they’re going to come to Hawai’i and have the Triple Crown, then they’re going to have to look at what they can do for this local community to not just minimize the footprint but to actively give back and leave something better than when they got here, whether it’s working with the community, children or culture.” And not just working with them, but understanding the local heart and determining which tasks and projects the community senses is of utmost importance, according to Kimi. ‘That’s what (Vans is) doing and that’s something that everyone should be able to do,’ she says’ And because of their commitment to sustainability and their great help to the North Shore Community Land Trust, I’m hoping it’ll set the example for anyone.’
At the core of the conservation movement during the Vans Triple Crown is the company behind the entire event, and for Kimi, that equates to invaluable progress. “Just having a set influential, mainstream yet core company become a platform to bring awareness to these things and give back to community sets a great example. A lot of corporation don’t have the same SURF ART 24
LET’S MAKE MUSIC BY BLAKE LEFKOE | PHOTOS: TONY HEFF
Joe Green, owner of Surf n Sea and Haleiwa Ukuleles, grew up in Jacksonville, Florida. When the craftsman wasn’t surfing, he worked as a carpenter and occasionally, a mechanic In 1977 Joe’s buddy, Rozo – who had traded in life on the east coast for the epic waves on Oahu – called him up and told him to get on a plane Joe had just been laid off from a construction job of seven years, and the two-hundred-dollar-a-month room offer in Rozo’s house on the North Shore was too good of a deal to pass up. The carpenter moved to Hawai’i that same year. Fox six months, he surfed his brains out while collecting unemployment, but before long, the surfer became a married business owns with a growing family. Joe has accomplished a lot in the last four decades of living on the island, not the least of which is following his newest passion for playing and building ukuleles. In addition to being a carpenter, surfer and mechanic, Joe is also an avid musician. “I’ve been playing music a long time; harmonica since I was twelve-years-old and singing since the early ‘70s and I’ve been in at least a dozen bands here on the North Shore.” About twelve years ago, this musician began playing the ukulele. He heard Brother Iz’s rendition of “Somewhere Over the Rainbow” and thought. “I really want to play this song. “So he bought his first ukulele from North Shore local, Dr Diltcher, and began taking Lessons. Joe fell in love with the instrument immediately. For as long s the musician could remember, there had always been original songs floating around in his head, but never had
a good instrument to compose on until he started playing the uke. “It really made my songwriting take off by just picking up this instrument. I learned five or six chords and it was like a revelation. I must have written 40 songs at this point. I’ve only recorded one CD, but I’m currently working on my second.” This songwriter had been playing the ukulele for five years when a lifeguard friend gifted him one. The young man told him he was getting rid of all his old ukuleles because he was going to learn how to make them himself. Joe was intrigued, “Hey, I want to do that!” Not long after speaking to the lifeguard, the craftsman hooked up with luthier Leif Anderson and began building the instruments. “The ukulele thing came really naturally because I’m good with my hands. The ukuleles that Dr Diltcher builds are very, very well done, he’s amazing with his hands, very delicate. Being a carpenter I’m good with wood, but I didn’t know how to do the finer touches.” Being a lifelong woodworker helped Joe pick up the art quickly and before long, he was going above and beyond, doing things others were not. One of the most original features found on these customs ukuleles are the floral, Polynesian designs that the artist carves into them. The idea originated when the woodworker began creating instruments for the winners of the Reef Hawaiian Pro. It all started in 2010, when the Reed Contest Director bought one of Joe’s custom ukuleles to use as the prize in that year’s contest. Joel Parkison won it.
Everyone involved was so stoked on it that the director asked the ukulele builder if he would make eight more for 2011. Joe thought that they would hold more significance if they were carved with a design related to the event. For the next four years, the prize maker engraved these beautiful, handcrafted instruments with elements of each year’s Triple Crown poster artwork. The finished results were not only exquisite works of art, but the carving actually improved the sound of the instruments. Another unique attribute of Joe’s ukuleles, both the ones that are for sale as well as those made for the contest, is what they are built out of. Instead of simply using the more traditional Koa and Mango hardwoods, Jose also uses Opuma, “A wood that not many people use, “Says Joe. “It grown all over the place here; people usually cut it down and throw it away, but it’s a very beautiful wood.”
when I’m not working on my ukuleles. I usually do that at night. My shop is at my house so it’s pretty convenient. I can slip down there and spend an hour, or all day It’s a Zen thing I can get in there and before I know it it’s one, two o’clock and my wife’s calling me asking if I’m ever coming to bed.” And when it comes to his wife, Joe is nothing but smiles. “My wife is the one that has kept me together all these years. There’s no way I could be where I am right now if it wasn’t for her. She’s one of the strongest individuals you’ll ever meet.” “Most of the material I’ve used to fix and repair Surf n Sea were scavenged from other buildings torn down on the North Shore. I’m always on the lookout for wood, either for my ukuleles of for repairs at Surf n Sea. The termites stay busy.” - Joe Green
Similarly, to how this forager uses scavenged wood to fix-up and rebuild the Surf n Sea building, he also incorporates used materials into the construction of his ukuleles. “I like to reuse wood if I possibly can and some of the older wood is much better than what you buy these days. The fret boards and bridges are all made from wood that we salvage from Surf n Sea.” Joe has also begun the distinctive trait of incorporating “an actual surfboard stringer style called a T-band … which looks and makes the uke’s neck stronger. It’s an older style of stringers. It’s usually balsa 3/4-inch with 1/8-inch redwood on either side of it. The older longboards have that kind of layout. It’s very strong, that’s why they did it, and works very well in the ukuleles.” The parallel between boards and ukuleles transcend the physical structures and applies to the actual act of surfing and playing music as well. There is a deep-seated connection between these two activities and this man who has dedicated much of his life to both, gives his take on the similarities. “You know what the relationship is? It’s the rush you get when you ride a wave. It’s the adrenaline. That’s the addicting part of it. Music is very much like that. Especially if you get on stage and have an audience that’s tuned into what you’re doing. That’s the biggest connection.” The extraordinary success of Surf n Sea has enabled this hard worker to spend most of his time doing what he love, going surfing, playing music and building ukuleles. “I try to get in the water everyday, mostly in the mornings and afternoons Rarely is there a day SURF ART 27
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