Myanmore Magazine - No.36/October 2019 by MYANMORE

No. 36 /October 2019 Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s free!

magazine MORE THAN A MASTERCHEF YE HTUT WIN

Q&A WITH NIKKI BARLTROP RANGOON RHYTHM: THE PEACIST BEYOND INLE LAKE: CONNECTING 3 LAKES ON FOOT MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

PROJECT MANAGEMENT FOR SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT CERTIFICATION (PM4SD)

MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

No. 36 /October 2019

magazine Managing Director Andreas Sigurdsson

Editor

Min Ye Kyaw

Cover Photo

Gerhard Joren

Photography

Min Ye Kyaw Khiri Travel Susan Bailey Zwe Wint Htet

Contributors

Christian Gilbert Edwin Briels Min Pyae Sone Susan Bailey Tom Sanders

Illustration

Ben Hopkins

14 Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s On 8 Cinema 10

Interns

T Nang Seng Myat

Art & Production Zin Wai Lin Phyo Thu Kyaw

Publisher

MYANMORE Magazine Pyit Thiri Thaw Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited Permit No. 01588

The Teashop 12 Cover Story

Printer

Ye Htut Win: More than a MasterChef 14

Shwe Naing Ngan Press Permit No. 00296/00371

Feature

Sales & Advertising

Charlotte Barjou 18 Last days of Queen Supayalat 20 Franck Muller and Art & J Myanmar Exclusive Sale 34

Travel

Beyond Inle Lake: connecting 3 lakes on foot 22 Unique holiday getaways 24 Aureum Palace Hotels & Resorts, Bagan: 26

sales@myanmore.com 0977 900 3701 / 3702

Disclaimer Sponsored

YOMA Car Share 30

Arts 32

Q&A

Rangoon Rhythm 33

Nikki Barltrop 28

Eat & Drink New openings 31

Tech Talk 35

About Myanmore Myanmore is a registered brand under Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited providing digital and print publishing as well as creative services. Myanmore is managing the leading online city guide www.myanmore.com and printed publications Weekly Guide, EnjoyIt, KnowIt. We also work closely with the team of DRIVE, the first and only premium car magazine in Myanmar. Recently, we have launched application Sarmal (for finding restaurant & bars in Myanmar). The mission is to provide great content and experiences for residents in Myanmar.

No part of this publication can be reproduced or transmitted in any form without prior written permission from Myanmore. All details are deemed correct at the time of print. The editor, employees and contributors cannot be held responsible for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions that may occur.

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MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

What's on Mushroom & Truffle Creations at The Strand Restaurant 18th and 19th October

The champignons of France make an exciting ingredient for Chefs around the world to work with. For two nights only, on 18th & 19th October, join Executive Chef Patrick Périé on a journey through the mushrooms and truffles of France in a five-course menu at The Strand Restaurant, sure to tantalise the palates. From October, Executive Chef Partrick Perie introduces his new menus, including 4 and 5 course degustation menus. Highlights included French inspired dishes from the region of Provence including Provencal style pork pate with spinach, and marinated artichokes. The Strand Restaurant will be open from Monday to Saturday.

SAX N SUN Pool Party

19th October The first pool party of the season will be hosted at Novotel Yangon Max Pool with tremendous DJ lineups on Saturday October 19th, 2019. DJ beats will be followed by the groove of the Saxophone that will enhance your moment. Price will be 25 USD net per person, inclusive of 100 pipers cocktail, aperol spritz, Myanmar beer, Wine on Free Flow. For reservations, please call 09-444088886. Novotel Yangon Max - No.459, Pyay Road, Kamaryut Township, Yangon | 2 pm - 10 pm

The Biggest festival for food and beer, which is organized by Myanmar Beer.

Theatre Show: Decameron

Soul of Sardinia Chaine des Rotisseur Charity Gala Dinner 19th October

Pullman Yangon Centrepoint - No.65, Corner Of Sule Pagoda Rd And Merchant St, Kyauktada Tsp, Yangon | 6:30 pm - 10 pm

25th and 26th October

Thuwunnabhumi Event Park - Thanthumar Road, Between Shwe Ingyin Housing & Chanthar Gongyaung housing, Thingangyun Township, Yangon | 4 pm - 12 am

The Strand Restaurant - No.92, Strand Road, Kyauktada Township, Yangon | 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm

Join a unique Charity Gala Dinner dedicated to Sardinia, a beautiful Italian Region, where the splendor of landscapes is combined with the flavors of a great cuisine. Traditional “canto a tenore”, music and dances will accompany you during this journey into Sardinia. Dress code is smart casual with Ribbons for members and price is 120 USD for members of La Chaine des Rotisseurs and 150 USD for Non members and Guests.

Myanfest 2019

Side of the Notes Art Exhibition 22nd to 26th October

Lokanat Gallery will host the 8th solo Art Exhibition of OKZ, Ohn Khine Zin, on 22nd to 26th of October. Lokanat Galleries - No.62, Corner of Merchant street and Pansodan Street, Kyauktada Township, Yangon | 10 am - 5 pm

26th October Three actors - Marco Luly, Sabrina Candeloro Zuber and Roger Jenkins - will reinterpret in a contemporary way some of the tales taken from Boccaccio’s Decameron, a famous Italian masterpiece written in the XIV century which has inspired European modern prose literature and which is still capable nowadays to amuse people making them reflect on some common problems in our societies. The performance will be in English and based on interaction with the public. Suggested for children above 10 years old. FREE OF CHARGE. No prior registration is needed. Come with family and friends. The Strand Hotel - No.92, Strand Road, Kyauktada Township, Yangon | 7 pm - 8:30 pm

Jazz Night at Sarkies Bar Every Wednesday

Rainbow IV, a jazz band in Myanmar that is a collaboration of over 20 years between four friends who have been inspired by the sultry tunes of famous musicians including Miles Davis, Duke Ellington, Herbie Hancock and Frank Sinatra. Meet Phoe Kalae on the Guitar, Kyi Maung on the Clarinet, Pho Khwar on the Piano and Ye Lin Moe on the Drums, who will be playing every Wednesday evening at Sarkies Bar from 7pm to 10pm. On the evening, enjoy $5 Imported Beers, $6 Select Cocktails and Select Wine by Glass. For reservations, please call (95) 1 243 377~79. Sarkies Bar - No.92, Strand Road, Kyauktada Township, Yangon | 7:00 pm - 10:00 pm

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Promotions THE RITZ Restaurant’s SPECIAL OFFER for CHILDREN Come and explore The RITZ YANGON’s Unique Promotion for CHILDREN: under-12s can enjoy the SPECIAL CHILDREN MENU Without Charges The Ritz Yangon - No.61,University Avenue Rd, Bahan Tsp | 11 am - 11 pm

Organic Chaloris Beef at Babett Yangon From farm-to-fork, organic Charolais beef will be freshly imported directly from local farmers of the Auvergne region of France, and will be exclusively available at Babett Eatery & Bar, throughout October and November. Babett will be serving two cuts of the well-known Charolais beef, prime rib and rib-eye: La Côte d Bœuf Charolaise, the holy grail of this French beef is a 600-gram prime rib, dry-aged for 45 days and L’Entrecôte de Bœuf Charolaise, a tasty 350-gram rib-eye with succulent flavours in every bite. To savour the flavours of the French Organic Charolais beef, Babett will offer a selection of French red wine to pair, starting from MMK 10,000 per glass. Babett - No.5, Alan Pya Pagoda Road, Dagon Township, Yangon | 7 am - 12 am

Saturday Wine Night: 10% off for all Wine!! at Ember “No wine left behind”, the fascinating promotion has arrived for all wine addicts! Tomorrow is Sunday, so you can get high on life as much as you want on Saturday night. For all those who want to spend their Saturday night with good wine, Ember’s promotion is suitable for you. In that night, you can grab any wine with 10% off. We suggest you not to miss that chance! Ember Restaurant - Corner of Kabar Aye Pagoda Road and Kan Bae Road, Yankin Township, Yangon | 6 pm - 9 pm

Luis de Camões Discovery Menu at the Strand Cafe This October, discover a Portuguese 3-course menu for just $19++, brought to you by Executive Chef Patrick Périé and created in thought of Luis Vaz de Camões, Portugal’s greatest poet, born in 1524, he was expelled from Portugal because he fell in love with Dona Catarina de Ataide, another aristocrat and favourite of the king. The menu includes Portuguese Tomato Soup served with poached egg, and croutons, Pico Island Rump steak with cabbage and sweet potatoes and Pastei de Nata, a traditional Portuguese custard tart sprinkled with cinnamon sugar. Available until the end of October 2019. For reservations, please call (95) 1 243 377~79 The Strand cafe - No.92, Strand Road, Kyauktada Township, Yangon

MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

Cinema

Now Showing Joker

Crime, Drama, Thriller

“Joker” centers around the iconic arch nemesis and is an original, standalone fictional story not seen before on the big screen. Phillips’ exploration of Arthur Fleck, who is indelibly portrayed by Joaquin Phoenix, is of a man struggling to find his way in Gotham’s fractured society. A clown-for-hire by day, he aspires to be a stand-up comic at night... but finds the joke always seems to be on him. Caught in a cyclical existence between apathy and cruelty, Arthur makes one bad decision that brings about a chain reaction of escalating events in this gritty character study. Casts: Joaquin Phoenix, Robert De Niro, Zazie Beetz, Frances Conroy, Marc Maron and more.

Coming

Family redefines what it means to be a good neighbor.

Gemini Man

Casts: Oscar Isaac, Charlize Theron, Chloë Grace Moretz, Finn Wolfhard, Nick Kroll and more.

Action, Drama, Sci-Fi

Gemini Man is an innovative action-thriller starring Will Smith as Henry Brogan, an elite assassin, who is suddenly targeted and pursued by a mysterious young operative that seemingly can predict his every move. Casts: Will Smith, Mary Elizabeth Winstead, Clive Owen, Benedict Wong, Theodora Miranne, Linda Emond

The Addams Family

Animation, Comedy, Family

Get ready to snap your fingers! The first family of Halloween, the Addams Family, is back on the big screen in the first animated comedy about the kookiest family on the block. Funny, outlandish, and completely iconic, the Addams

Maleficent: Mistress of Evil Adventure, Family, Fantasy

Maleficent and her goddaughter Aurora begin to question the complex family ties that bind them as they are pulled in different directions by impending nuptials, unexpected allies, and dark new forces at play. Casts: Angelina Jolie, Elle Fanning, Michelle Pfeiffer, Chiwetel Ejiofor, Ed Skrein

Terminator: Dark Fate Action, Adventure, Sci-Fi

When Skynet sends a powerful new Terminator from the future in order to terminate Dani Ramos, a hybrid cyborg human and her

friends, Sarah Connor teams up with the original T-800 Terminator to fight the new threat and save the future once and for all. Casts: Linda Hamilton, Arnold Schwarzenegger, Mackenzie Davis, Natalia Reyes, Gabriel Luna

Two Worlds (Burmese) Family Drama

Thu Thu and her mother Eain Dray lives separately from the father, Kyaw Htet. When Grandma’s birthday arrives and both Thu Thu and Eain Dray are welldressed for the birthday party, Eain Dray is assigned with a new task all of a sudden. So, she asked Kyaw Htwt to come and pick up Thu Thu. The long journey is not heartwarming as Thu Thu misunderstands her father being clumsy at handling things and when they it comes to travel together. Casts: Naing Naing, May Kabyar, May Myint Moh, Pyae Pyae & more.

MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

Papawadi (Burmese) ---

All women have own beautiful facial features but, in these days, some have undergone facial surgeries- having a common reason which is lacking self-confidence. Glancing at the most gorgeous queen at her university, a university student decided to transform her face completely. Being the most beautiful woman among the people can offer one a temporary satisfaction; will it remain as true happiness for a lifetime? Casts: Phway Phway, Moe Hay Ko, Tun Tun, ALinn Yaung & more.

Now & Ever (Burmese) Romance, Mystery

Cinemas in Yangon

The love bond sparkles when the beautiful woman first met a very loving and gentle man comes into her life. He is the only dependable man her father has chosen with request to assist her daughter’s both mental and physical conditions. The two get very close and finally decided to make commitment for each other. Normally, it takes one to sacrifice all the love, courage and support for lasting marriage as he/she makes a vow.

Casts: Zenn Kyi, Paing Phyoe Thu & more.

Check out more updates on myanmore.com/cinema.

MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

THE TEA SHOP Illustration by Ben Hopkins

Educational App Launched ‘A Kwint A Yay’, has in collaboration with Danish Ambassador John Nielsen, Dagon and East Yangon Universities successfully launched the first application focused on Human Rights for the public society. The purpose of the app is to enable people of all ages in Myanmar to learn more about human rights and its importance for Myanmar society. ‘A Khwint A Yay’ is also officially approved to assist legal professionals, politicians, lecturers at universities and government officials regarding human rights reforms.

Treasure-Trade is back The trading business with China has been affected since July 15th when the fighting in Northern Shan state broke-out in the small town areas and along the highway routes that pass through Muse, Kutkai

and Lashio. It is recorded that 30,000 sacks of rice and 10,000 packs of sugar are imported each day from China. Traders are anxious about the business whenever attacks occur. Fortunately, the trade which is estimated around 4.5 billion US dollars, continues on for the benefits of both countries.

Seismometers now, safety tomorrow On August 31st, a terrible earthquake hit three small towns: Khin Oo, Yay Oo and Shwe Bo, destroying ancient Pagodas and old religious buildings, houses and a few school buildings. This tragic happening led the Coordinating Committee for Earthquake Prediction to investigate the surrounding areas of the affected towns in cooperation with seismologists and geologists from Nanyang Polytechnic University (Singapore), Yangon University, Mandalay University and Monywa University. Soon afterwards, the second Head Minister of CCEP, Dr

MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

Myo Thant officially announced implementation of 20 seismometers all along from Khin Oo town till Sitt Gaing borders to prevent worse damage in the future and to record the frequency of earthquakes

Student loan Request but the answer is? Students studying in the universities of Rakhine Division recently made a request to establish a department for the purpose of offering student loans to both undergraduate and graduate students. The Ministry of Education of course gave the reply that â&#x20AC;&#x153;Student Loans should be undertaken by approved Financial institutions as they are the legal organizations to assist the request, approve and provide all the necessities according to the Federal Laws.â&#x20AC;?

MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

Flood causes Loss This year, the monsoon once again caused bad flooding and among the badly affected are farms. The heavy rain flooded their fields and led many to sell their farm animals like cows and pigs and left them with nothing. Thus, as a special request, two villagers demand the authorities of the Ministry of Farming and Agriculture to help the families with all required crop species, equipment for farming and provide a wide range of fruit and species. In response to the victims, the authorities confirmed the support to meet all the essentials as demanded.

Cover Story

Photo by Gerhard Joren.

MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

YE HTUT WIN: MORE THAN A MASTERCHEF Words by Tom Sanders. Photos by Gerhard Joren. Two hours after meeting Mr Sharky in the restaurant that shares his name, I find myself nose deep in a barrel of half fermented fish guts. Behind me, the man himself moves from shelf to shelf, snatching down jars of wheat grain and honey like a Burmese Willie Wonka, waxing lyrical about the fermentation processes that set his restaurant chain apart from the rest. An hour earlier, we had been discussing the coming environmental crisis, ethnic tensions in Myanmar, and his plans for a future political career, but right now there is only one topic: the many uses of fermented fish guts. Obsession has always been his defining characteristic. Mr Sharky’s biography is a matter of public record. Sharky, whose real name is U Ye Htut Win, was born into a wealthy Myanmar family. The son of a diplomat, he lived the life of a global citizen, living in Israel and England, Sri Lanka and Italy. It was this international upbringing that gifted him both his love of food and his cosmopolitan approach to life, and he grows nostalgic as he reminisces about the Israeli falafels and English puddings that defined his childhood. He was to make his fortune in Switzerland, running cocktail bars and nightclub The Underground. It was here that he earned his nickname; a testament to his focus, drive and head for business, and where he eventually amassed enough money to return to his homeland, with his wife and daughter in tow. Now, he spends ten months of the year in Myanmar, where he is the owner of the Sharky’s restaurant chain and one of the judges on the Burmese Masterchef. The rise of the Sharky’s restaurant chain is another well-worn yarn: the smuggled ingredients from Thailand, the obsessive experimentation with agriculture

MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

to allow the production of fleur de sel and buffalo cheeses, the efforts to recreate western cuisine on the hearts of the steamy tropics that evoke nothing so much as Herzog’s Fitzcarraldo, and even Daw Aung San Suu Kyi’s demands for Sharky’s goat cheese during her stint in house arrest. It’s a compelling fable, and today Sharky’s is a household name, with branches in Yangon, Bagan and Ngapoli. But what’s next for Mr Sharky? Sharks, after all, face a stark choice: keep moving, or die. How does one man go from world traveller to nightclub manager, restaurateur, to aspiring politician? The answer is simple - obsession. To Mr Sharky, the business of restaurant owning is fractal, composed of infinitely deep parts, each of which deserves obsessive attention. And today, his mind is not on his chain of restaurants, but on his country, its politics and its future. “Let’s not talk about Sharky’s” he exclaims. Instead, we begin our conversation with his recent role as a celebrity judge on Masterchef Myanmar. Here, Mr Sharky saw an opportunity to use the national stage as a pulpit for his personal values - hygiene, respect for food, and stewardship. In a country where government institutions and schools often fail to adequately educate the public on such matters, he stands firm that even “entertainment” shows can become sources of knowledge for the public. He decided to wear only longyi while on television, consciously demonstrating the beauty and quality of Myanmar fabric, and his criticism of the food is tempered with an agricultural and ecological awareness. A sticking point for him seems to be Myanmar’s cuisine’s lowly place in the global food hierarchy. While other cuisines (like Thai and Vietnamese) have had their moments in the sun, Burmese cuisine has not - yet. But

he speaks with utter confidence: “The next wave in Asian food will be Myanmar food. It comes in cycles, like fashion. Every country will have its time.” For him, Masterchef is part of a personal quest to find the next superstar, the Burmese chef who will bring the food to the world, vindicating his personal passion for the cuisine of his homeland. Asked what he thinks of Burma’s present day relationship to food, he wrinkles his nose. “Bad! The quality is decreasing! We are on the same diet but the lifestyles have not changed. Children from rural areas have moved to urban. Instead of walking and taking the bike, they play with mobile phones. So you can see them getting unhealthy. Myanmar is one of the highest consumers of edible oil in the world.” I ask him if he believes that bad, lazy or inferior food is an insult to the innate value of natural resources, and his answer was immediate - “Yes! We have lost the connection between man and meat. The moment you cook something, you take the life from it.”

All this is tied to a deeply ecological conception of food value. To him, the food, the land, the country are one and the same. “One day we will all go back to the land,’’ he intones. It’s this that explains the link between his culinary background and his aspirations towards politics. To him, Sharky’s is Myanmar - the food that he serves a demonstration of the quality of his home soil. Food, and how we produce and grow it, is therefore inseparable from values, ethics and national pride. The only moment in the interview when his anger breaks through is when he speaks of Bagan, and seeing plastic bags and used condoms (“I’m sorry to use such language!”) on the floor of the historic Buddhist capital. His politics are deeply linked to his understanding of agriculture food, water, scarce resources and self-sufficiency. “I’m not interested in the tomato. I am interested in the tomato skin. How to use the rind of a lemon - taking food waste … trash food. Even in a poor country like Myanmar we waste a lot.”

Photo by Gerhard Joren.

He also sees problems for the global hegemony in the near future - such as mass migration from climate-affected countries like Bangladesh, where he spent three years of his life. In his view, “food will be the weapon of the future - something that technology can not recreate.” Breadbasket countries like Myanmar, he believes, will become critical as global overpopulation causes a decline in access to food and freshwater. It’s this urgency, he explains, that has caused his

increased interest in politics - a role which he sees not as a bid for power, but a sort of civic duty to his home country, a change to use his wisdom and accumulated knowledge to benefit his country. I ask when he expects his transition into politics to take place, expecting a nebulous answer. Instead, he speaks confidently - in the next year, perhaps. In a time when political leaders increasingly come from backgrounds such as reality TV, Mr Sharky’s recog-

nizable face and track record of success may yet catapult him to political victory.

are not the hunted. We want to survive. It’s in our DNA. One does one’s part. We have to try.”

As our conversation windows down, we reflect on the many challenges facing Myanmar and the world over the next twenty years. Disease, starvation, drought, and ethnic tension. I ask him if he is an optimist in the face of this future of uncertainty. He pauses for a long second. “One does one’s part,’’ he replies. “Human beings are hunters. We

For a moment, he stares past me, past his bustling army of staff, and past the tables of smiling customers, into the middle distance. But then his eyes light up, and he turns back to me with a beaming smile. “Come! I have to show you our wheat!” This shark is still swimming, and this man is not finished with Myanmar yet.

MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

Feature

Ye Htut Win and Charlotte Barjou (Photo by Gerhard Joren). MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

SIMPLICITY AND COMFORT: CHARLOTTE BARJOU From light minimalist button-up shirts to intricately designed wedding gowns, this fashion house is turning heads for Yangonites tired of the same old t-shirts and blouses. Min Pyae Sone meets Charlotte Barjou, her brand and its founder. Back in 2014, Charlotte decided to leave her hometown, Paris, to settle in Yangon with the dream of establishing her own brand and designs. The name itself is a brand of simplicity and comfort. Starting from daily dresses to wedding gowns. Setting her own very first atelier in her own apartment, it then transformed into a fancy showroom in Sanchaung. Today Charlotte is thrilled to welcome you in her shop on Myay Nu street n.23. The atelier is also located there so you can see the backstage. Having travelled across Myanmar, Charlotte had the chance

MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

to discover the outstanding local fabrics and know-how as well as the different traditional outfits of the country. After having done so, she fell in love with the country, the people, the beauty of the landscapes as well as the diversity of the regions - you could say this was one of the factors that made her stay. During her travels, Charlotte conducted research on fabrics in the weaving villages of the different states. She was stunned by the creativity of the beautiful patterns made from just mere fabric. The incredible combinations of the colours, textiles, and patterns were so inspiring that she found a beautiful way to integrate local fabrics in modern designs. Local production is key for the Charlotte Barjou brand. A wide part of textiles and fabrics used in her collections come from Myanmar - something Charlotte vouches for. The collections epitomize

Charlotte’s adventure and a love story with Myanmar culture. Her time in Paris was a bit of a contrast to Yangon’s more laid back atmosphere. In her recollection of the metropolitan city, she describes it as a very nice place to find inspirations, with the beauty of the Haussmannien architecture, the opera and theatres - the costumes were most fascinating to her, the classical concert at The Philharmonie, the people in the streets, the museums with regular art exhibitions with her favourites: Van Gogh and Giacometti. While these artists do not influence her work directly, they provide a certain zealousness and compactness to her personality which in turn defines her work. Very sensitive to sustainability and women empowerment, she thanks an amazing woman whom she had learnt a lot from. “I think she really transmitted something

onto me,” Charlotte said discussing the relationship with her teacher. This was her first introduction to fashion and making clothes and Charlotte is very grateful for this heritage. This lady has been a pattern maker at Chanel Haute Couture for 20 years and trained Charlotte on techniques, precision, beauty and the utmost importance of quality. Charlotte can be reached at www.charlottebarjou.com, cb@charlottebarjou.com or 09254318676. A fashion expert is coming to Yangon in November and Charlotte is organizing a pattern-making workshop for 1 week! From Monday 4th to Friday 8th of November. You can register at this number: +95 9972993060.

Feature

DID YOU KNOW THAT QUEEN SUPAYALAT SPENT HER FINAL DAYS IN YANGON? Words & photos by Christian Gilberti The last Queen of Burma - court portrait of Queen Supayalat by an unknown French photographer.

In the 94 years since her death, Supayalat, the last Queen of Burma, has never quite been able to live down the image of the “domineering” wife and “vicious” courtesan.

drunkard (no matter that as a devout Buddhist he never touched a drop in his life), naively driving him into a futile war with Britain - a far technologically-superior Western power.

But who was the real Supayalat? And was she that straight-forward?

But the realities of court politics in late-Konbaung Burma were far more complex than that. The Second Anglo-Burmese War (18523) had left the kingdom deeply unstable and when King Mindon died in 1878, a succession crisis quickly emerged. Twelve years earlier, two of the King’s sons had rebelled against the crown prince, killing him. The sons fled into exile, but it was common knowledge that they were planning to one day return with the help of the British and ministers at the court to claim back the Lion Throne.

If we dig a little deeper we find that the stereotype of the conniving queen emerges largely as a remnant of a colonial smear-campaign to discredit the Burmese monarchy in the lead-up to the British conquest of Upper Burma in 1885. The contemporary press painted the Queen as a scheming “shrew” who controlled her husband King Thibaw, a weak monarch and a

In this context, Supayalat’s mother, Hsinbyumashin, had secured Thibaw’s coronation by ordering the massacre of hundreds of princes in 1879. Having come to power on the back of so much bloodshed, Thibaw and Supayalat naturally trusted no one, and ruthlessly maintained their hold on the throne. When a British ultimatum finally came in 1885, they feared agreeing to peace with the British because it would likely mean the end for them and their family. So instead, they prepared for war... The Affair When the pair were crowned in 1879, Supayalat was only nineteen and already deeply in love with the shy, bookish Thibaw.

As a girl she had disguised herself in men’s clothes in order to pursue her teenage crush, the Thahgaya Prince, into a forbidden part of Mandalay Palace. But when she could not find Thahgaya, she asked Thibaw where he was, and, when he would not tell her, she smacked him on the head. She never found her beloved, but, from that day on, the future-King was smitten. Thibaw made his love known, and the princess reciprocated, writing passionate love letters and even running away to visit him in his private apartments. Her mother Hsinbyumashin was scandalized, but she recognized the potential of such a match. It was her eldest daughter, Supayagyi, however, that Hsinbyumash-

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in intended to marry off to the young prince. Supayalat, however, was not prepared to share her love with her sister and she broke considerably with court custom when she insisted that Thibaw take her as his one and only wife. Deeply in love, the King agreed, shocking the royal establishment. The night of the coronation of the two queens, the King did not sleep in the chief Queen’s apartments, but in his own with Supayalat. It was clear to everyone in court who the real Queen was. But the reign of King Thibaw and Queen Supayalat was not to last. When the British marched into Mandalay Palace in 1885, having quickly defeated the Burmese forces, they sent the royal family into exile in a small town in India called Ratnagiri, a backwater far from Burma. Thibaw would never see his native land again. The Exile and Return In exile, Supayalat kept largely to herself, writing long letters to the viceroy in Calcutta, pleading for a larger allowance, the return of her stolen jewels, and to be allowed to return home. When her beloved Thibaw died in 1916, an elderly Supayalat was finally allowed back to Burma, not to Mandalay Palace, but to Rangoon, the colonial metropolis that had grown up in her absence. Despite the best efforts of the British, however, the memory of the monarchy refused to die. In Rangoon, Supayalat was called upon by many curious visitors, European and Burmese alike. She and her family occupied a bun-

galow at 23 Churchill Road (now Komin Kochin Rd.), located on a hill with a view of the Shwedagon Pagoda, which she so revered. Living under house arrest, Supayalat nevertheless continued to maintain all the age-old customs of the Burmese court. The Queen sat above her guests and the servants slid back and forth around the room on their stomachs. It was in Burma that she finally found peace. She took to wearing white, “for remorse,” she said, and being deeply religious, she made offerings to the monks every day. Evidently, she was trying to grapple with the weight of past sins. A Burmese reporter from the Bandoola Journal interviewed her in September, 1924. At one point during the interview, she asked him abruptly: “Is it true that people believe I killed the princes?” referring to the massacre of 1879. When he responded in the affirmative, she replied firmly: “I didn’t kill the princes. I was a child when I was installed on the throne.” One who waited on her was Thakin Kodaw Hmaing, a founder of the nationalist Dobama Asiayone (We Burmans Association), a great supporter of the Queen, and a close friend. The very thing which the British government had hoped to avoid began to happen - the fledgling Burmese nationalist movement rallied around the Queen. Queen Supayalat would die on

Supayalat’s tomb (right) and Mindon’s tomb (left) in Mandalay.

Nov. 24, 1925, of a heart attack at the age of sixty-five. Surprisingly, the British government paid for the funeral. The colonial author and civil servant Maurice Collis stood by the roadside that day and watched “what was likely to be the last royal procession in Burma.” He found it ironic that the British governor would attend the Queen’s funeral, when the British had branded her a “capricious tyrant.” Nevertheless, Collis recognized that Supayalat had, in death, become a symbol of the struggle for Burmese independence from the British.

Her tomb still stands today among the Kandawmin Garden Mausolea on the Shwedagon Pagoda Road. It is in the traditional style, similar to that of her father-in-law King Mindon. It has always been the goal of the surviving members of the Burmese royal family to relocate the tombs of the King and Queen to Mandalay. But for the moment, Supayalat’s remains sit alongside some of the most famous of her people: ex-Secretary General of the U.N., U Thant, her beloved Thakin Kodaw Hmaing, and Aung San Suu Kyi’s mother, Daw Khin Kyi, in the shadow of the Shwedagon Pagoda, a position she would doubtless have enjoyed.

The mansion in Ratnagiri where the royal family lived in exile 1885-1919. MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

Travel

Phayataung village on Samkar Lake.

BEYOND INLE LAKE:

CONNECTING 3 LAKES ON FOOT

One of the perks of working in travel is the research to discover new areas and find out what to see and do there. For years, I have been fascinated by the 2 lakes beyond Inle Lake: Samkar Lake and Pekon Lake as these areas were certainly off limits for travellers until a few years ago. On my trips from Loikaw to Inle Lake, I have been passing these lakes by motor boat and I have been visiting Lisu tribe villages on treks from Loikaw to Pekon Lake but I never actually took enough time to go slowly and pass the area on foot. Hence, I was eager to take this opportunity in the middle of September, escape the Yangon weather, enjoy the sun and blue skies in Southern Shan state and come up with a new route. What to bring & what to expect.

Scenary on the trekking way.

A trekking holiday is always a good way to get out of the daily routine of city life, do some exercise, somehow have time to think things over. Without constant influxes from your messengers, WhatsApp, internet or the world news, it’s just you and nature! It takes a day to get into the rhythm of waking up, having breakfast, walk for 2-3 hours, get surprised by a home cooked lunch, walk another 2-3 hours, have a sundowner, relax, enjoy dinner and go to bed early. Unlike hut to hut trekking in Switzerland or New Zealand, trekking in Myanmar is actually a bit more of a “holiday”: your food is prepared by the guide, your bed is made, and there is no need to carry your heavy luggage as it will be waiting for you at your next lodge. Trekking during the Myanmar green season is probably one of the most rewarding periods as the green fields are mesmerizing; do bring a raincoat for the odd shower you might get. Trekking from October onwards in Shan state means you need to bring a sweater for the cool evenings. Besides that, bring good walking shoes, a pair for flip-flops for the “après-trekking”, enough cotton t-shirts, shorts, a hat, sunglasses, and plenty of sunscreen. During the 4 days, I walked about 70 km, each day about an average of 4-5 hours which was very enjoyable and easy to do for anybody with a normal fitness. MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

The scenery of the three lakes: Inle, Samkar, and Pekon Lake During my trekking, I decided to alternate between the east bank of the lake and the west bank. Some parts were high in the mountains with beautiful views of the lake while others parts were passing through lakeside villages. The landscape was very diverse and ranged from plantations and paddy fields to pristine forest including protected community forest as well as bamboo forest, corn fields, and rocky parts of wild land. The route in Inle Lake area took me passing by several traditional Pa O villages, views of the floating gardens and the numerous boats zigzagging over the lake, and some fine forest. The next day walking towards Samkar Lake lead me for a few hours through bamboo forests meeting with bamboo worm hunters. We continued by boat through the channel connecting Inle Lake with Samkar Lake and walked uphill to a traditional Pa O village where few foreigners have been before. From there, the view on Samkar Lake is stunning as the surroundings of the lake seem somehow greener than Inle. Arriving from the backside to the Tar Kaung pagoda was truly spectacular and the lack of souvenir stalls was refreshing. Further onto Samkar Lake, the feel and atmosphere of the lake side villages is very much traditional and friendly. We arrived at the very special Phayartaung monastery (for a further understanding of this place, I suggest the following reading: Children of the revolution from Feroze Dada), had a good Shan meal and continue to walk to our end-destination: Pekon lake which is the biggest of the three lakes. Boats were used to traverse parts of each lake, those were very enjoyable rides as it gives you a good impression of life on the lake as well.

Inle Lake View (Photo: Ken Spence).

Tar Kaung Pagoda.

Where to stay & what to eat For any trekking in Myanmar, I would certainly advise you to go with a good guide and if you really want to relax and enjoy the trip, make sure to book a trekking that includes good regional food (not just fried rice) and all transport to and from the start till the end (itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not much fun finishing a trek and still having to walk on a tarred road towards your hotel). My trekking from Nyaung Shwe to Loikaw took 4 days with overnights at comfortable lodges with private bathroom and one local home stay at the beginning. I LOVE to try local food and often avoid meat and greasy curries so during this trip I ate the local Pa O vegetarian food which was very tasty. Traditionally, the Pa O only eat meat on the day they come back from the 5-day rotating market. I had a lot of salads, bamboo shoots (trust me; when they are fresh they are very different from the Yangon taste) and Shan noodles or rice. Lunches were either home cooked or prepared in biodegradable boxes made of banana leaves. Staying at the Little Lodge in Samkar was one of the highlights as well as the luxury Loikaw Lodge at the end of the trip. If you have more than 4 nights, then I would suggest to stay an extra day in Loikaw and visit the different tribes including the longneck women in the area. Edwin Briels is MD of Khiri Travel Myanmar and has been working for over 15 years in travel in Myanmar and will share his experiences travelling in Myanmar in a monthly column. Khiri Travel 01 375 577, edwin@khiri.com, khiri.com

Phayartaung Monastery. MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

Pa O Villages.

Travel

Luxury Camping on the Irrawaddy.

UNIQUE HOLIDAY GETAWAYS Words & photos by Susan Bailey

ong public holidays are coming up! Traveling to the beautiful destinations in Myanmar is amazing; you can see beautiful landscapes, ancient temples in Bagan, or mountain routes in Shan State. But if you are bored with the usual getaways to Inle Lake, the beach or Bangkok, here is a list of a selection of alternative holiday getaways both inbound and outbound for intrepid travelers.

Pindaya landscape.

MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

Go Glamping and Dolphin Spotting in Mandalay

Irrawaddy Dolphin spotting.

October is one of the best months to spot the endangered Irrawaddy dolphins that live in the waters north of Mandalay. Arrive off the overnight bus in Mandalay and join Living Irrawaddy Dolphin Project on their private boat. Cruise north of Mandalay, and stop in the fishing villages along the way. Spend the night in a luxury tent on the banks of the Irrawaddy River and enjoy home cooked meals at the nearby village. The next morning, get up early and return to the water with fishermen to try and see the dolphins then travel down river, stop at more beautiful rural villages to get in touch with locals. You’ll arrive back in time to catch the overnight bus to Yangon but why not stay another day and treat yourself to an indulgent massage at Mandalay Hill Resort’s spa which has a 50% discount promotion though the end of the year! These 2 Day -1 Night trips start at 185 USD/ person. Contact info@livingirrawaddy.com for more information.

Discover Cambodia on Two Wheels Hit the road on a guided motorbike adventure through the rugged countryside of Cambodia. The team at JustRide has designed a special ‘Wild Wild West’ adventure for the Thadingyut holiday. Fly in to Siem Reap on Friday afternoon, gathering for a trip briefing and dinner with the crew. Then ride out of town the next day, passing through Battambang and Pailin as well as miles of beautiful countryside before returning to Siem Reap on Monday. The four-day, 720 km ride comes in at 884 USD per person including tour leader, motorbike rental, 3 nights accommodation and all meals. Daily flights from Yangon to Siem Reap are available on Bangkok Airways, via Bangkok. For more information, email dean@justride.asia.

Sunset on the bikes in Cambodia. Beyond Bagan: Salay & Popa

Tranquil Salay near Bagan.

Just an hour drive from Bagan, with fabulous accommodation options, Salay and Popa are great destinations for a weekend getaway. Arrive in Bagan in the morning and book a car and driver to head to Popa Mountain Resort, overlooking the famed nat shrine at Taung Kalat. Pop into Ma Paw Paw’s house nearby for a delicious homecooked lunch (reservations required) then go for a trek up to the crater rim or relax by the spring-fed pool. After a relaxing evening at the resort, drive down to Salay, on the banks of the Irrawaddy River. Visit Yokesone Monastery and old colonial buildings, enjoy your lunch at the Instagram-worthy Salay House restaurant then check in to the Salay River View Inn for the evening. Make your way back to Bagan on the third day, perhaps stopping at Bagan House to pick up some beautiful lacquerware on the way, then catch the late afternoon flight to Yangon. Email go@myanmarpuretravel.com for details.

Tea, Trekking and Tranquility in Pindaya If you want to relax and chill in the Shan highlands during Thadingyut, skip Kalaw and head to Pindaya instead. This small town is just a one hour drive from the Heho airport and has far fewer tourists despite the beautiful natural surroundings. Book a room at the tranquil Cottage House Pindaya for your stay and you won’t be disappointed the hospitality provided by the owner, Mya, and her team is second to none! Drop your bags off and take a short walk to Aung, a small workshop making handmade paper and umbrellas, then climb the stairs to famous Pindaya Caves to marvel at the 8000+ Buddha statues placed in the limestone caverns. For dinner, try fresh, healthy dishes at Cottage House or walk to the nearby Wah Te for local organic dishes. The next day, head to the hills on a trek – opt for a one day walk to explore Danu villages, tea plantations and more, or go for a two-day adventure with overnight in a village monastery. The views are stunning, the food prepared on the way is delicious and being away from the ‘modern world’ is always a great way to spend a day (although you will have mobile coverage most of the way!). Returning to Pindaya from the trek, have a well-deserved shower then head to the edges of Pone Taloke Lake for a cold beer to wrap up the day. To arrange a stay at trek in Pindaya, contact myamandalay@gmail.com. MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

Travel

AUREUM PALACE HOTELS & RESORTS, BAGAN: AN OASIS TO ENDORSE YOUR STAY This post contains sponsored contents and all the pictures were taken by the writer. With a total of 114 rooms, Aureum Palace is well-established as one of the largest luxury hotels & resorts in Myanmar. First opened in 2003, the hotel has achieved regular titles of international hospitality awards, including the prestigious World Luxury Hotel Award, the TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence, Travellers’ Choice Awards, and the ASEAN Green Hotel Award. Pros: With an outdoor swimming pool, the hotel is modern with spacious rooms, splendid food and many scenic views. Cons: It was crowded for its own good and far from most attractions. As our bus stopped at the Bus Station, we were forced to take off by the bus attendant and met the crazy taxi drivers, waiting for us to send to our hotel in Bagan. My colleague told me to wait for the ferry that the bus station provides is cheaper, but I couldn’t wait being hungry for my breakfast so we took a taxi with 6,000 kyats to our destination. A few minutes passed, through temples and some traffic point, we were delivered to Aureum Palace Hotels & Resorts, under Htoo Hospitality. Although this is not our first time to Bagan, yet our very first time at Aureum, the luxury boutique collection of Htoo Hospitality. In this review, Booking, Location, Check-in, Room, Food and Beverage, Amenities, Service and Overall Impression will be included. Booking: Rates at Aureum Palace start from US$ 75 a night at Deluxe Double for Myanmar citizens and FRC card holders and it can really, really high up to US$ 799 at Island Villa.

We chose a Jasmine Lake View Villa Double which cost us US$ 113 per night. Although there isn’t points reward to cover your stay, you can put the promo code if you have one and you can check your room details here and book your selection at www.htoohospitality.com. Our booking included the following extras: daily breakfast for two people, access to the swimming pool and gym, complimentary Wi-Fi, buggy transportation inside the hotel, welcome fruits inside the room and a complimentary ticket each to Nan Myint Tower known as the Bagan Viewing Tower. Location: As I mentioned, Aureum Palace is located at a far distance from most attractions like famous temples, lacquerwares, museums and eateries. But it’s a prime location for those who would love to spend the quality time, means exclusive and luxurious, with family and loved ones. But if you’re a budget traveler and expected to spend at lowest cost, this isn’t your place. Despite its distance from the attractions, which I meant was only if you take an E-bike for transportation, you could rent a car or I recommend you to take your own from the start if you are considering to stay here. As part of the hotel area, Nan Myint Tower is the perfect place to enjoy the sunset. My favorite part was the amazing view from the pool where you can see the ancient temples across the lake. Check-in: After a few minutes drive from the bus station, we were ready to experience the scenic views of Aureum Palace and enjoy our trip. And when we pulled off, we were amazed by the large-scaled

MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

structure of the hotel and its huge and beautiful entrance. With small pounds set step by step as the stairs took us to the lobby area, the open-air was just as nice featuring colossal teak poles as high as its roof. Inside the lobby, we were offered to sit in the waiting area where you can scout traditional sculptures, instruments and jewelry and souvenirs for sale. Since we arrived a bit earlier than the check-in time, the staff profusely apologized for being unable and another friendly staff approached with fresh lemonades and scented cold towels to make us relax while our room is being prepared. We strolled around the pool area and hence we prepared the transportation for the rest of the day to turn on our VACAY MODE. Room: Our room 504, a Jasmine Lake View Villa, was really nice. Once we stepped in, the black teak door with Burmese relief sculptures – Nats/Spirits holding some flowers – on it, caught my eye at first sight. It was a huge room once you went inside -- two single beds on the right and a small settee table on the left with a big TV and teak finished acacia wood double Sofa and club chair set -- and waiting on the table was a plate of welcome fruits. What surprised me was the bathroom which is the same size as the bedroom and drawing room with a jacuzzi bathtub and shower area separately and of course, the toilet. Though there wasn’t much drawer space in the bedroom, there was a large dresser in the bathroom with plenty of drawers and counter space. In the morning, I’d love to sit at the small balcony outside with a cup of coffee and a book with to enjoy the scenic lake view and temples across us. And with a bottle of red wine at night – why not? Oh.. one more. I’d see the stars through the transparent glass window above our bathtub, of course, with a glass of red wine again. Food & Beverage: Everything I tried at the hotel was fresh and good. We started our morning with the complimentary breakfast buffet served at the grandeur Xanadu restaurant. The buffet features a range of international classics and Burmeses -- Mohinga, salads, pancakes, croissants, bacon and sausages, Chinese fried rice and vermicelli -paired with juices, hot beverages and a wide options of dairy products. There were multiple buffet counters featuring fresh fruits and vegetables, cheeses, parfaits, juices and smoothies, donut-and-bread bar, cooked dishes like bacon and sausages and a few Asian selections. I primarily enjoyed the create-your-own omelet bar with plenty of ingredients to add on.

Amenities: Pools - Upon your arrival to the hotel, from where the check-in counter, you can see the huge pool area on the edge of hotel facing towards to ancient temples across the lake. It was beautiful and truly an instagrammable spot! There is another pool on the other side where the rest of the rooms are, with the relaxing chairs and small palm trees covering up the shades. Gym - The gym is located next to the pool at the basement. You can start your day at the gym first, then refill your tummy at Xanadu restaurant just opposite to it. Spa - The Aureum Nature Spa, inside the replica of an eleventh century temple, is a combination of natural light, earthy colors and textures – a deeply soothing oasis. Bagan Viewing Tower - Upon your arrival, the reception will give you free one time access to this Viewing Tower, which is the only place in Bagan that you can watch the sunset and sunrise now. Most of the temples’ top grounds are closed because of the massive earthquake in 2016. Service: All the staff members I’ve met here are friendly and everyone has worn a pleasant smile, especially the gardeners. The hotel’s supervisor on duty was also incredibly friendly and apologetic when we were waiting for the room at the reception on arrival. Mostly I remembered, the guy at the omelet bar while we were having breakfast was super nice and cooked everything we’ve asked him to. And the hotel offers its own tour packages for those who have not planned any activities. The electric bikes can be grabbed from the hotel at $5 for 4 hrs or $10 for 8 hrs. Overall: To be condensed, Aureum Palace is a beautiful place with friendly staff, scenic views, good food and service. Expect being a far distance from most attractions, I would return to Aureum Palace for one more relaxing vacation! And yes, luxurious. Aureum Palace Hotels & Resorts: Near Bagan Viewing Tower, Min Nanthu Village, Nyaung Oo, Mandalay Division, Myanmar Tel: 09 896502 964 Email: sales@htoohospitality.com.mm Web: https://www.aureumpalacehotelandresortbagan.com

For dinner, we ate outside while visiting the temples.

MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

Expat Corner

Q&A:

NIKKI BARLTROP

MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

Nikki Barltrop, Chief Operating Officer of 57 Below and its caravans; Gekko, Parami Pizza and 57 Below Catering as well as working alongside Pun & Projects at Port Autonomy, has spent a lot of time in supporting and promoting sustainability and environmental awareness in Myanmar such as the Straws Suck campaign, Thant Myanmar, Farm-to-Table initiatives and many more. She has been claimed as an ambassador of Myanmar’s F&B industry by her peers for her honest food reviews about restaurants, and is committed to developing her teams, and most importantly, helping them to grow, and succeed together. She often invites guest bartenders and chefs from overseas to do “Pop Ups” here in Myanmar, and hosts events to endorse the lead in the game. This year, Nikki won the Special Contribution to Excellence award 2019 by Myanmore Awards for her dedication towards the promotion and development of excellence within the organisation and beyond. Verily, Nikki is a nice, lovely and friendly lady. Min Ye Kyaw runs into her at Port Autonomy to discuss her passion, journey towards the future and plans ahead. What is your background? I was what you might call an “Expat Brat” and I lived overseas before I was a teenager. My family moved back to the UK where I studied and worked until the recession hit in 2009. I’d just come back from an amazing trip to Burning Man and the idea of getting back into the daily London grind wasn’t appealing at all, so when I was made redundant I took it as a sign that I needed a change of scenery, and I took a role revamping and reopening a couple of prestigious F&B projects in Beirut. What motivated you to get into F&B? My mum is one of the most hospitable people you could meet and not to mention, an amazing cook. When I was growing up she used to throw these big, extravagant dinner parties which I longed to be involved in. I started working as a waitress when I was a teenager for some extra cash to help fund my travels, and although I ended up studying something else at university, I knew that hospitality was where my heart was. Tell us about your career path. How did you end up in Myanmar? I was managing gastropubs and high street restaurants in London from the age of 21 and realised that I had a lot more to learn, so I applied for a job with Gordon Ramsay, whom I spent four years working for. This in turn led to a job managing a high profile private members club in London, and subsequently into 5 star hotels across the Middle East and Southeast Asia. I visited Yangon on holiday, and when a friend

posted on Facebook that his friend was looking for someone to head up his restaurant operations here, I leapt at the chance. What is the most challenging part of your job? I love my job, no two days are the same, which is great as I get bored very easily. There are a lot of variables that all come into play which can be frustrating sometimes, but then the same things that drive me nuts are often the same things I love, with the exception of the non-stop power cuts! What is the key to developing a good team? Hiring the right people and looking after your team. I am so lucky to work with some incredibly talented people. I’m sure I am not the easiest person to work at times, but I think they know me well enough by now to know how much I value them and what a great job they do. I trust, and support them, and try to ensure that we give them the tools to grow and develop with us. Whilst I am always sad when people leave us, nothing makes me happier than to see them go onto achieving great things and I hope they know I am always there to support however possible. Can you explain the Straws Suck (Zero Plastic) campaign? Whilst plastic pollution is a global issue, I live in Myanmar and its impossible not to notice its impact here. Straws, for the most part, are totally unnecessary and are just so wasteful. I did the maths and calculated how many straws we would save from going

into the bin over a year and was shocked. The great thing about Yangon is that it is quite a small scene and it is possible to make an impact, however small, with a campaign like this. I’m keen to do some more work with Thant Myanmar, and try to spread the message to the broader Yangon restaurant and tea shop community. We would love to get the Myanmar restaurant association on board to help with this as there is a lot of work to be done, not just on straws, but single use plastics as a whole.

our operations and work alongside Pun & Projects to bring Port Autonomy back and make it a success. We are always looking for opportunities for growth, especially the Parami brand as I think there is still a huge potential there. We are also back at Wonderfruit in Thailand again this year, and this time we have the main stage which will be even crazier than ever. It is so great seeing so many people from the Yangon community in the fields, I can’t wait to do it all over again!

What did you think about winning the Myanmore special award for contribution to excellence?

Have you thought about leaving Myanmar?

It was a huge surprise and I was really touched and honoured to win it. I was so excited that Puia (our bar manager at Gekko) had won something that I didn’t hear them call out my name, so I was shocked when my name came up on the screen. So many people had lovely things to say to me about it and it was all quite embarrassing to be honest, but it was a really fun night and I was very flattered to be honoured by my peers this way. What are your thoughts on the F&B scene here? The change in the F&B scene from when I arrived 3.5 years ago is huge. You have any number of events to attend on any given day of the week. I love the increasing creativity and talent coming onto the scene and just wish I had more time to check everything out! What is your vision for 57 below - any upcoming plans? 2019 was a year to consolidate

I love Myanmar, it really is my home. There is a great energy here and I can’t imagine living anywhere else for now. I am lucky to have a Yangon “family” in my team, not to mention a great group of friends, so I don’t have plans to leave anytime soon. What are your hobbies? I love travelling and have been lucky to be able to visit some incredible places, both here in Myanmar as well as overseas over the past few years. I am also an avid reader and have bought pretty much every English language book (and a few French ones) from the lovely book seller outside of Gekko. I especially like reading books that are set here in Myanmar or written by Burmese authors. Oh, and eating and drinking of course - I think I’m pretty much at Olympic skill level for that now! I especially enjoy trying regional, traditional Myanmar dishes - its just so diverse and I’m always learning new flavour combinations and being introduced to new ingredients or cooking techniques. Find Nikki, usually, at Port Autonomy on Strand Road.

MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

Sponsored

YOMA CAR SHARE: A NEW ERA OF MOBILITY The Future of Mobility has already arrived in Myanmar. It was not many years ago that the taxi’s lacked interior and aircon, you had to lift your feet from the floor while your car passed through the monsoon floods on the streets as water sippered in through the holes made by erosion. In just a few years, after the arrival of new telecom networks, we all have smartphones and apps. Nowadays, if you need transportation the options are plentiful with several taxi apps. But what if you want to drive yourself but not own a car and the extra hassle it entails? To use a car when you need it and just pay for the usage. This is the future of mobility that is being made available in modern cities across the globe.

Imagine you live in Star City. Just pick up a car for the day and return it when done with your errand. Or if going to Naypyitaw, reserve a car of your taste in your phone and just walk up to it at the airport. Car is opened from your app and you have the freedom to enjoy the wide roads of Naypyitaw all on your own to a lower cost and with a nicer car than what you can rent with a driver. MYANMORE has spent the last month testing Yoma Car Share and we have done just this. We have used it for going on oneway trips from Star City to Pun Hlaing. Using it in Naypyitaw for a visit and all around Yangon for several days. Everything managed through the mobile app and even gasoline is included. Yoma Car Share launched in 2018 and offers cars for either

a short drive or long-term. You just reserve, drive, and return. There’s no cost to sign up, and no monthly fee. You don’t need to worry about insurance and parking. You can leave the car at any of the Yoma Car Share designated parking spots across the country. The fee range from K1,600 to K16,000 per hour and K85 per kilometre depending on the type of car, rental period and the distance. There are different types of cars such as compact, economy, full-size, SUV, pickup, van and even trucks. Our choices were first the Suzuki Ciaz for a short trip and then the Ford Everest for the longer rental and travel. Fuelling the cars was a breeze with three different chains in partnership and never any issues.

How to get started?

You can register either as a corporate or a private person using credit card. Submit your details at Yoma Car Share on www.yomacarshare.com Once account approved you receive a Yoma Car Share membership card with username and password. Reserve a car online or in the mobile app, select vehicle of your preference and pick-up location & time. Pick-up the car by just tapping the member card card on the windscreen sensor to unlock the doors. Return At the end of the reservation to the nearest Yoma Car Share station, tap the card on the sensor for the last time to lock the door and end the rental.

MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

Eat & Drink

What’s new in Yangon? The Glass Yangon

HAPA Coffee & Cocktail

The Glass is an all-season rooftop bar with the option for dining. With good mixology and a mood-setting ambiance – especially when it has a glass roof to fit the name.

A bar with a new concept where everything is “pay as you feel” opened in Yangon’s Downtown. Serving cold brew coffee in the day and cocktails in the evening. The twist is: they don’t have a menu or prices.

Address: 18B, Kyaik Waing Pagoda Road, Mayangone Township, Yangon Tel: 09 895 714178 Hours: 5 pm – 12 am

Address: 494 Merchant Road, Kyauktada Township, Yangon Tel: 09 961 658877 Hours: 8 am – 10 pm

Locale Café Central

Oink & KO’s

Locale is a healthy food and lifestyle café, specialized in modern Eastmeet-West fusion cuisine, using only fresh and sustainably sourced products. Meals at Locale are light with influences from both western and eastern cuisine which are evident in some of their specialties like the Mexican Beef Wrap or the Greek Power Bowl. The Central Boulevard, Shop 8/9, No. 7/A-8/A Kabar Aye Pagoda Road, Yankin Township, Yangon Tel: 01 470 0017 Hours: 8 am – 10 pm

Oink and Ko’s is a specialty korean bbq restaurant wide a variety pork menu choices. From intestines to juicy belly cuts, Oink and Ko’s delivers other korean selections as well. Address: N0.41, 2nd Street, (8) Block, South Okkalapa Township, Yangon Tel: 09 950 789022 Hours: 4 pm – 9 pm (Tue to Fri), 2 pm – 9 pm (Sat & Sun)

Llaollao Myanmar Llaollao is a leading Spanish frozen a cup of yogurt pleasure without feeling guilty about calories with a wide array of toppings and sauces to choose from! Address: Myanmar Plaza, Level 3, Unit K301, Kabar Aye Pagoda Road, Bahan Township, Yangon,Tel: 09 777 777816 Hours: 10:30 am – 9 pm

Check more updates on myanmore.com/new-openings.

MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

Arts

QUESTIONING CONFORMITY:

ARAYA KOMAI

Araya Komai is a non-binary visual artist, assistant manager at Myanm/ art, queer advocate of Fijian and American ethnicity, currently based in Yangon for 11 months. Min Pyae Sone sits down with Araya to discuss their different forms of art, and potential contributions to Yangon’s growing contemporary scene. In society, where the implications of conformity run rampant, we’re encouraged to be different and stray away from the pack. We live in a time where art can be made, interpreted, and perceived by people all color, gender, race or religion. So where does ‘being queer’ and ‘queer art’ fit, especially in Myanmar’s rather backward culture? For Araya, as someone who operates without a specific guideline, their art is experimental, especially in their cutting-edge videos. Remarkably, these videos may seem meaningless; maybe even primitive. I believe it takes an open mind to understand what they’re really trying to put through the viewer’s mind. Speaking through their work, as if these videos

were mediums for a generous, much grander perspective. During our conversation inside an empty hall, with a few curious passersby staring either at my excessively hairy arms or Araya’s nose ring, Araya elaborated on their childhood and how having a Fijian father and a Caucasian mother pretty much allowed their to experience, and later overcome the prejudice shown towards their and their family. Araya also comments on the beauty standards that exist in Myanmar, most of which are overwhelmingly discriminatory, having spoken about the bias upon people who either are brown or have curly hair. Their Non-Binary Bodies series portrays solitude and unconditional loneliness. The focal point lands on the subject which is usually surrounded by columns and columns of smiling faces – symbolism among the ignorant. The pattern embedded with the faces communicate a sense of balance, harmony, and contrast. Araya uses thick bold lines to express their feelings towards misogyny

and as someone who is the living embodiment of different experiences, they have executed it well. She has also traced their feet, in one of their paintings, to represent a part of their and capture a sense of belonging onto the canvas. The Non-Binary Bodies collection provokes a sense breaking away from a social collective and to question one’s beliefs despite criticism. “It was like me…like I was in this piece. It represents my soul, and then from that, I just created what was around it – which was basically society and a bunch of faces facing one direction. So I would describe my art as pockets of me but not a hundred percent me.” Araya also partakes in other projects such as experimental photography and videography. The videos are simple, but with a lot of complex thoughts put into it. In their 54 second short, Horizontal Sounds, Araya documents a running water, an approaching figure and binaural recordings that stimulates “horizontal movements of mass/elements in

both audio and visual contexts,” as mentioned in their video explanation. The video itself imitates and expresses a sense of someone or something moving towards you but at the same time, never reaching its destination. Araya is also heavily motivated and inspired by their brother, who does music and experimental soundscapes and goes by the name, Sinepainter. He, having introduced music altering software, has steered Araya to start experimenting in videos – which they are very thankful for. Araya is also open to the idea of assimilating Myanmar elements into their own work in a way that wouldn’t disrespect or butcher the art. With admiration, I can only look forward to their future pieces and see how maturity and experience can shape an artist. Araya can be inquired at their website, arayakomai.weebly.com.

MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

Music

RANGOON RHYTHM:

THE PEACIST

Tom Sanders meets The Peacists in Salween, a downtown cafe nestled in the salubrious Urban Asia Centre. I’m expecting a full band, but two people show up - Aung and Nyan, the singer/vocalist and bassist of the band. Friendly and affable, the two chat easily with me and Min, our translator, treating the interview with enthusiasm and a light touch, often lapsing into smiles and laughter as they recount the story of their origin and hopes for the future.

The Peacists started as so many bands did, jamming casually in high school, until their mutual interest made them decide to take it seriously and start recording. Although they began as a trio, one of their members, guitarist Nay Lynn Htet, left to go abroad. Now, they borrow a guitarist from indie-adjacent band The Reasonabilists, allowing them to perform live despite their diminished capacity. This cheerful inter-band collaboration is a sign of the close-knit community that defines the indie rock scene in Yangon - a loose collection of about ten bands, all of whom, The Peacists assure me, are good friends. The scene isn’t big enough for tensions, schisms and drama, and overall, everyone just kind of gets along. It’s a relief, as a lot of the Yangon indie music is so positive in its message that it would have been rather depressing to learn that the scene was driven apart by infighting, drama and random acts of mutilation. As the members of The Peacists

MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

explain, their lyrical concerns are free love, peace, and antiwar sentiment, and an upbeat positivity underpins their lyrics, aesthetic and musical stylings. Influenced by Britpop, Coldplay and Burmese rock and pop 80s songs, the band see themselves as very different from the standard musical fare, a sense of being apart from the crowd that has stayed with them since their ostracized college days. Recently, The Peacists played a charity event for victims of the flood off the Mon River - they were the only indie band there, a sensation they have gotten used to over the years. I ask the Peacists how they feel about the current Yangon scene, dominated by EDM, hip-hop, trap and rock. The two are affable and honest, steering away from controversy. “We knew this wave of EDM music was going to happen. We don’t have any strong feelings against it. But to be clear, we don’t like it” they reply with a smile. Fair enough. Their new album, Journey to the Stars, is emblematic of their

positive outlook, and of their fierce emphasis on independence and self sufficiency. The Peacists are keen to emphasize the etymology of the term “indie”. “It’s not a style of music. It’s a concept. Freedom of thoughts, of songs, and lyrics, no string controlling you. That’s what indie is really about.” It’s the most worked up I see them get over the interview, and its clear that this freedom of expression and independence has real value to them - not surprising considered the history of censorship and oppression that these utopian, anti war sentiments have endured under the junta. That being said, the Peacist’s music conforms to what you might expect from a traditional indie band - pushing bass, jangly reverb-soaked guitars, and catchy choruses, albeit sung in Burmese. This sound is epitomized A Lin Say, done in collaboration with General Tiger Gun, a slice of shimmery indie with synth brass and a breathy vocal melody that evokes classic indie aesthetics, warm but with a tinge of the wistful. The new Peacists album, Journey to the Stars will be there

most ambitious project yet, and the first album starring their new lineup. The Peacists also have a talented designer onboard, Madnest, an underground fashion brand that is responsible for the look of their album, artwork and overall aesthetic - further evidence of cheerful collaboration and a swelling underground scene. As Myanmar music diversified and promulgates new genres, the indie scene has remained solid and productive, quietly producing good music under the traditional auspices and aesthetics of indie rock. Fans of indie could do much worse. The Peacists are: Aung Chan Min - Vocals and Guitar, Paing Lynn Aung - Lead Guitar, Nyan Yel Wynn - Bass Guitar, Paing Thet Hein - Keyboards and Htut Myat - Live Drums. You can hear the Peacists at thepeacists.mm on Facebook or on Spotify and Soundcloud. Madnest can be found at m.me/madnestclothing.

MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

Iphone 11 Pro (Apple)

Apple Watch Series 5

Technology is no longer just a technology due to the stunning Iphone 11 Pro. Display features outstands itself with triple cameras on the back body that is set to function multiple actions. Telephoto lens with a longer focal length, a magnified image, Wide lens and UltraWide for zooming in live videos. Sound particles bouncing all around the corners -- the Iphone 11 Pro possessed a lively spatial audio. Steve calls it ‘Pro’ for the battery life (A13 Bionic chip) that lasts long for 5 hours with entire frame preventing itself from nail-scratches, spilt-on or accident hits by tiny objects inside the bag or wherever it goes. Selfie-lovers will get addicted to the power of capturing slow-motions of the face. Enhance your performance and explore the benefits of Iphone 11 the ‘PRO’. Cost: US$ 599 (64 GB) US$ 749 (256 GB) US$ 949 (512 GB)

The exactness of the time is a must and inside Series 5, you can check out for dials, GPS trackers even when you are all alone in the open data-loss area. Need no worry at all, the Series 5 is tracked by the giant satellites floating above. What’s more, days without subway cards was a dream but now differs, so scan the Series 5 for once and you’d get ‘Pass’ for a new journey ahead. Take out your airpods to make a great non-stop access to 50 million song tracks. The Series 5 will become a best friend that functions as an ECG scanner. Nervousness for pulses be gone, heads up for Series 5. Cost: From US$ 399 (Space Gray Aluminium Case with Sport Band) From US$ 699 (Gold Stainless Steel Case with Sport Loop) From US$ 399 (Gold Aluminium Case with Sport Loop) From US$ 799 (Space Black Stainless Steel Case with Leather Loop) From US$ 799 (Gold Stainless Steel Case with Modern Buckle) MI Mural TV 65-inches- authentic wallpaper MI has just introduced a tricky Wallpaper alike flat-screen TV with just 13.9mm thickness. This MI Mural TV has its power supply and as officially informed by the company, the screen and the host are connected through a newly designed MI Port line that has 30 cables inside including high-power supply of 400 W and highresolution video signal wire supporting 18 Gbps HD quality signal. Next, it has access joint to both 4G and 5G Wifi connectivity with multifunctional HDMI ports and USB ports. Its uniqueness is the Soundbar to enjoy the lively cinematic experience in the living room. A dream of having everyone’s eyes fixed on TV is now said to be “Mission Completed!” The MI mural TV possessed a feature that enables one to perform slideshows of personal photos where you could access the files through the TV cable. Price: MI Wallpaper TV 65” with Sound Bar - 1,558,000 kyats

Available in stock at: Win Mobile World (Main Branch)No. (48), Shan Kone Street, Myaenigone, Sanchaung Tsp, Yangon. 09 785 222 888, 09 443 222 888 MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019

TECH TALK Application Google Keep Travel and Local

Looking for an application that ensures your progress in productivity? Google Keep is now on Google Play platform- reviewed by more than 840,000 google users via online as one of the best productive applications that enables one to perform daily tasks with specific information being recorded with more options to insert pictures, drawings and saved photos. A stunning feature is that Keep does transcriptions for one’s thoughts being dictated. Notes can be categorized according to labels - making notes at ease. “Ok Google” can be a great pen-pal for Keep as it can be processed after voice commands are being functionalized. Myanmar Mobile App Mobile Technology

Myanmar Mobile App is the most trendy application in Myanmar, mostly Yangonites. Users can find detailed information about the most recent mobile phones on sales with the reviews for the launched mobiles. Other categories like News, Latest Trends in Technology, games reviews and other media hot news can be streamed via online through the app. So, Myanmar Mobile App is the right toolkit to store in your mobile. Check out for more latest trends in Play store- explore the TECH world and switch up your routine pace. iTranslate Translator and Dictionary Productivity & Educational Not just a simple Translator, iTranslate includes Thesaurus for over 100 languages and dialect switching modes. Being the top-rated translation app, iTranslate is updated with Dark Mode feature meeting users’ demands. One could think this app is processed via online but, it offers offline translation mode in over 40 languages and noticeably the explanation of tenses arranged in every language. The PRO feature of the app is the Lens that thoroughly scan all the printed information in the menus and signs, etc. Trusted by millions, and quoted “never encounter a language barrier” by Time.com, iTranslate’d make your journey around the world possible at the best mood. Wherever you are, iTranslate broadens your network.

MYANMORE magazine #36 October 2019