MYANMORE Magazine - No.13/ November 2017

No. 13 /November 2017 It’s free!

magazine

THE TRAVEL EDITION

No. 13 / November 2017

magazine Managing Director Andreas Sigurdsson Editor Natty Tangmeesang Copy Editor Lorcan Lovett Contributors Brittney Tun Iris Alonso James Fable Malti Lahiri Marcus Sigurdsson San Zar Ni Bo Susan Bailey Su Su Maung Cover Photo Ye Myat Tun, YMT Productions

22 What’s On 8 Cinema 12 New Openings 14 Briefings 16

Art & Production Kyaw Kyaw Tun Hein Htet

Travel A walk to remember: The Yangon Heritage Trust 20 Top ancient sites in Bagan 22 Bagans's dreamy riverside sunset 26

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The road to Tedim 28 Small villages and big buddha: A Myint and Bodhi Tataung 32 Mrauk U: Intrepid travel in an ancient kingdom 36 Time to visit Hsipaw 40

Publisher MYANMORE Magazine Pyit Thiri Thaw Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited Permit No. 01588 Printer Myanmar Consolidated Media Ltd. MCM Printing (00876) Sales & Advertising sales@myanmore.com 0977 900 3701 / 3702

Advertorial The human quality & human capital 44 Horoscope 46 Promotions, Card Deals & Tickets 48

About Myanmore Myanmore is a registered brand under Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited providing digital and print publishing as well as creative services. Myanmore is managing the leading online city guide www.myanmore.com and printed publications Weekly Guide, EnjoyIt, KnowIt. We also work closely with the team of DRIVE, the first and only premium car magazine in Myanmar. Recently, we have launched applications such as MYANMORE (lifestyle app) and Sarmal (app for finding restaurant & bars in Myanmar). The mission is to provide great content and experiences for residents in Myanmar.

Disclaimer No part of this publication can be reproduced or transmitted in any form without prior written permission from Myanmore. All details are deemed correct at the time of print. The editor, employees and contributors cannot be held responsible for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions that may occur. www.myanmore.com www.facebook.com/myanmore www.issuu.com/myanmore Follow us on Instagram and Viber.

What's on

Art & Stage

supporting local DJ artists : DJ BeBe, ROXA and OU J will be there at the event. You can get ticket at www. ticket.myanmore.com The ONE Entertainment Park - Paw San Hmwe Street, ThinGanGyun Township, Yangon

Art & Stage

artists.This "B2M" concert is dedicated to this Legends. They are proudly announced yours B2M Music Festival are coming on November 18th 2017.

This November B2M festival is the only and the last exclusive concert of all B2Mlovers and named as " Back to Millennium : the last chapter". Don't Miss it. Ticket Prices are 70000, 50000, 30000, 25000, 10000 Kyats.

nar-cum-workshop "The Art of Selling Yourself!" | RSVP : 09 250 142 570.

Adapt ASEAN Academy - Sakura House, Yangon Road, Kamayut Township, Yangon

Education

Thuwunnabhumi Event Park - Thanthumar Road, Between Shwe & Myanma Gongyaung housing, ThinGanGyun Township, Yangon

Waterzonic Festival 2017 11th November 2017 | 6:00 PM - 11:30 PM

Waterzonic is one of the biggest EDM music festivals in Thailand and it is being brought to Yangon for Thingyan Festival celebration. For the first time in Myanmar, Brave Entertainment proudly presents KNIFE PARTY as Headliner, TUJAMO and ZANON for Waterzonic Myanmar 2017. As a

Sports

Back To Millennium: the last chapter Concert 18th November 2017 | 6:00 PM - 11:00 PM

After 2 anniversaries of 1000 years,Myanmar music industry's ultimately changed, updated with many

Yangon 100PLUS Active Run 2017

Women in Business & Leadership Development Gala + Conference

19th November 2017 | 5:00 AM - 11:00 AM

24th November 2017 | 6:00 PM - 10:30 PM

The Yangon 100PLUS Active Run marathon will be held on Sunday, 19 November 2017, with the flag off point at Thuwanna Stadium. The marathon categories are 10km and 3.5km. Ticket price for participants for 10km and 3.5km categories - 8,000 Kyats. Ticket sales period - 12 October 2017 to 5 November 2017. Race Pace Collection - 16, 17 & 18, November at Thuwanna Stadium.

AustCham Myanmar and MWEA cordially invite you to the Opening Gala Dinner of the second Women in Business & Leadership Development Forum. Join them for a unique evening to hear from truly inspiring and influential leading women and men in business from both Australia and Myanmar.Your ticket will help support Myanmar women attend, learn and be inspired at the Women in Business and Leadership Development Conference which will take place the following day.

TICKETS : $80 USD per person, including entry, a three course meal and free flow Australian wines and Carlsberg beer. | RSVP : 09961120111.

Thuwunna Stadium - ThinGanGyun Township, Yangon

Education

The Art Of Selling Yourself

Rose Garden Hotel - 171, Upper Pansodan Street, Yangon

13th November 2017 | 10:00 AM - 3:00 PM

Tough luck getting a job? Feeling a lack of confidence about the job application process? Or is there a dream job you really want to apply, but don't think you are ready for? Navigating the tough business landscape today can be challenging for someone with not much experience, and that's why we are here to help you with our semi-

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MYANMORE magazine #13 November 2017

Cinema

CINEMA

Coming This Month

metahumans to stand against this newly awakened threat. But despite the formation of this unprecedented league of heroes--Batman, Wonder Woman, Aquaman, Cyborg and The Flash--it may already be too late to save the planet from an assault of catastrophic proportions.

THOR: RAGNAROK Action & Adventure, Drama, Science Fiction & Fantasy

Casts: Gal Gadot, Henry Cavill, Jason Momoa, Amy Adams, Ben Affleck, Ezra Miller and more.

In Marvel Studios' "Thor: Ragnarok," Thor is imprisoned on the other side of the universe without his mighty hammer and finds himself in a race against time to get back to Asgard to stop Ragnarok--the destruction of his homeworld and the end of Asgardian civilization--at the hands of an all-powerful new threat, the ruthless Hela. But first he must survive a deadly gladiatorial contest that pits him against his former ally and fellow Avenger--the Incredible Hulk!

JIGSAW Drama, Horror

Casts: Chris Hemsworth, Tom Hiddleston, Mark Ruffalo, Cate Blanchett, Anthony Hopkins, Benedict Cumberbatch

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JUSTICE LEAGUE Action & Adventure, Drama, Science Fiction & Fantasy Fueled by his restored faith in humanity and inspired by Superman's selfless act, Bruce Wayne enlists the help of his newfound ally, Diana Prince, to face an even greater enemy. Together, Batman and Wonder Woman work quickly to find and recruit a team of

gift of life? Or is this a trap set by a killer with designs of their own?

Casts: Matt Passmore, Callum Keith Rennie, ClĂŠ Bennett, Hannah Emily Anderson, Laura Vandervoort , Mandela Van Peebles and more.

DEATH WISH Action & Adventure, Drama Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Pictures presents director Eli Roth's re-imagining of the classic 1974 revenge thriller Death Wish. Dr. Paul Kersey (Bruce Willis) is a surgeon who only sees the

Thirteen years ago on Halloween weekend--SAW and the character of JIGSAW introduced the world to a new face of horror. For seven straight years "If it's Halloween it must be SAW" was a holiday tradition. Lionsgate and Twisted Pictures proudly present JIGSAW! After a series of murders bearing all the markings of the Jigsaw killer, law enforcement find themselves chasing the ghost of a man dead for over a decade and embroiled in a new game that's only just begun.

Is John Kramer back from the dead to remind the world to be grateful for the MYANMORE magazine #13 November 2017

aftermath of Chicago violence when it is rushed into his ER - until his wife (Elisabeth Shue) and college-age daughter (Camila Morrone) are viciously attacked in their suburban home. With the police overloaded with crimes, Paul, burning for revenge, hunts his family's assailants to deliver justice. As the anonymous slayings of criminals grabs the media's attention, the city wonders if this deadly vigilante is a guardian angel or a grim reaper.

Fury and fate collide in the intense, action-thriller Death Wish.

based on the true story of the Granite Mountain Hotshots, is the heroic story of one unit of local firefighters that through hope, determination, sacrifice, and the drive to protect families, communities, and our country become one of the most elite firefighting teams in the country. As most of us run from danger, they run toward it-they watch over our lives, our homes, everything we hold dear, as they forge a unique brotherhood that comes into focus with one fateful fire.

ONLY THE BRAVE Action & Adventure, Drama

Casts: Josh Brolin, Miles Teller, Jennifer Connelly, Jeff Bridges, James Badge Dale, Taylor Kitsch and more.

All men are created equal... then, a few become firefighters. Only the Brave, MYANMORE magazine #13 November 2017

COCO Animation, Adventure, Comedy Coco is a 2017 American 3D computer-animated musical fantasy adventure film. Based on an original idea

by Lee Unkrich. The story follows a 12-year-old boy named Miguel who sets off a chain of events relating to a century-old mystery, leading to an extraordinary family reunion. Aspiring musician Miguel teams up with charming trickster Hector on an extraordinary journey through the Land of the Dead.

Credits: Rotten Tomatoes & IMDB

Cinemas in Yangon Mingalar Sanpya Cineplex 09 260 887 035 — 36, 01 230 3 165 Mingalar Cineplex (Gamone Pwint) 09 779 054 671 — 73 Mingalar Cinema 2(Dagon Centre (II) 09 732 54 091 — 92 Nay Pyi Daw 01 251 277, 01 251 288 Shae Saung Cinema 01 252 113, 01 388 034 Thamada Cinema 01 246 962, 01 246 963 Thwin 01 372 594, 01 388 033 Mingalar 01 243057

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New Openings

New Openings This Month Gandamar Garden BBQ & Hotpot Buffet • Asian Though a new entrant to the hotpot scene in Yangon, Gandamar Garden BBQ & Hotpot Buffet has already become one of the fav hotpot and bbq restaurant in town. With an endless amount of side dishes and great customer service, this is a must visit place.

Gandamar Street, Kabaraye Pagoda Road, Bahan Tsp 09 44894 9039 11 am - 10 pm

Pin Bar • Bar Yangon's nightlife scene just got better. Pin Bar offers another nice hangout place with some really well made cocktails.

89, Yay Kyaw Street, Pazundaung Tsp 09 45527 1991 11 am - 11 pm

Find out more in sarmal.com.mm

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The Plant House Café • Asian The Idea of Plant House is to escape the rat race or provide soul therapy in urban life .

A Place for Book Lovers , Home Gardeners, CoffeeGeeks and Foodies . The space may be small but it’s a lot of meaning for those looking for peace of mind.

33 Nyaung Tone Street , San Chaung Tsp 09 798 883355 10 am - 7 pm

Misfit Roof Cafe • Asian A Cafe poised to challenge conventional tastes. With the weather going cooler, do enjoy the outdoor area with some good food. Event hosting, delivery & catering services are also available here.

3rd Floor, Shwe Gon Plaza, Shwe Gon Daing, Bahan Tsp 09 252 255 770 10 am - 10 pm

My's Pizza • Western Pizza lovers!! Here is another pizza eatery to add to your go to list. It is a little bit far from downtown but you can get all the western food in one place. Try it.

11C Kyauk Kone Road, Yankin Tsp 09 799066661 9 am - 11 pm

MYANMORE magazine #13 November 2017

Mr.Chan Music & Bar • Bar & Grill The new place to chill in town with cool ambient light, fairly priced food and beverages.

Plus unplugged music.

Wai Za Yan Tar Road, Thingankyun Tsp

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Briefings

ADVENTURE IN THE HILLS: KALAW HALF MARATHON 2017

By Susan Bailey

On 10 December hundreds of runners will head to the hills around Kalaw in Shan State, crossing trails normally used by farmers and ox carts. The 2nd annual Myworld Kalaw Half Marathon promises to be bigger and better than its inaugural event.

The 2017 event will include a 12-kilometer run as well as a half marathon, both races starting and finishing at Kalaw Heritage Hotel. After a short distance the sidewalk gives way to trails, with the longer race tackling one long uphill climb to a spectacular viewpoint.

The event’s founder, Marlo Perry, came up with the idea for a trail race while based in Kalaw for work. Her free time was spent running in the hills, discovering amazing trails in the process. “I am sure I surprised a few locals as I came hurtling along buffalo tracks in a florescent running t-shirt and massive smile,” she recalls. Marlo called a few friends from Yangon’s running community to come join her on a run and thus the Kalaw Half Marathon was born!

Although only in its second year, the event is expecting over 400 participants in December, a 50 percent increase from last year. Recruitment firm Myworld is the event’s title sponsor and Kalaw Heritage Hotel has been another key supporter, lending their land as a start/finish point and offering discounted room rates for runners. Just as importantly, there has been strong support from the Kalaw community and places like Kalaw Hill Lodge which happily agreed to let the race pass through their expansive property.

Based on the positive reviews and feedback from last year’s participants and the uptick in registration for this year, it seems the Kalaw Half

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YANGON – HONG KONG UP TO 11 FLIGHTS PER WEEK ON CATHAY DRAGON Cathay Pacific’s regional carrier Cathay Dragon will be increasing the frequency of its services between Hong Kong and Yangon from 29 October 2017, from 7 to 11 flights per week.

Marathon is here to stay. Marlo is hopeful that her vision comes true that the “Kalaw Trail Run will become a permanent fixture on the regional running calendar. This will be great for the Kalaw community and for running enthusiasts.”

For those coming to the marathon, or just visiting on holiday, here is a glimpse of what’s new in Kalaw.

Dining Gone are the days when you were limited to Shan and Nepalese food in Kalaw. Now there are dining options aplenty, especially for runners who need to fuel up the night before the race! Red House Bar & Restaurant is the top pick for hungry travelers.

Located in a restored colonial building that is painted (you guessed it!) red, the Italian-Myanmar run restaurant features real Italian pastas and wood-fired pizzas and a satisfying bar menu of draft beer, wine and cocktails. Also serving pizza, New Simple Life Café is another new dining option located on the outskirts of town with a lovely terrace for al fresco dining. The oddly-named Picasso is Kalaw’s latest- and perhaps only- Mexican restaurant with delicious fajitas and other south-of-theborder delights. Last but certainly

not least, Sprouting Seeds Café & Bakery serves amazing coffees and homemade cakes, the perfect indulgence for those with a sweet tooth (or those who have finished running a marathon).

Sleeping Kalaw, like most tourist towns in Myanmar, has seen a huge increase in the number of hotel rooms in recent years. New guesthouses have been built and several old properties have been renovated and converted into hotels. The best of the lot is Kalaw Heritage, one of the marathon’s title sponsors. The property’s colonial buildings date back to 1901 and the rooms pay homage to the buildings heritage without sacrificing the comforts of the modern world.

Add to that superb service, top-notch food and serene surroundings and Kalaw Heritage guarantees a memorable stay. If that stretches your budget a bit too far, the friendly Railroad Hotel is a cheap and cheerful option near the train station.

For more information: Event Information: http://www. runmyanmar.com/kalaw/ Kalaw Heritage Hotel: https://www. kalawheritagehotel.com/ Railroad Hotel: https://www.facebook.com/RailRoadHotel/

The new flights, which will be operated by the Airbus A321, will complement Cathay Pacific’s existing daily service to Yangon, meaning the airline will build on its position as the carrier providing more non-stop flights to Myanmar from Hong Kong than any other carrier.

The new flights will operate on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. Departure from Hong Kong is at 2.25pm, arriving Yangon at 4.20pm; the flight then departs Yangon at 5.20pm and arrival in Hong Kong is at 9.45pm. Flying time is 2.45 hours.

Cathay Pacific Country Manager Myanmar Nicholas Bury explained that the popularity of the route, which commenced five years ago, was pivotal in the decision.

“This customer support has encouraged us to increase frequency on the route, which will provide even greater convenience and gives our customers another reason for choosing Cathay Pacific. Our customers will benefit from more options and greater flexibility through our network expansion and increased frequencies,” said Bury.

MYANMORE magazine #13 November 2017

MYANMORE magazine #13 November 2017

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Travel

THE TRAVEL EDITION

By Myanmore

W

hen the government began introducing political reforms in 2011, Myanmar suddenly emerged as one of the world’s hottest new destinations.

Many foreigners took the news of the country “opening up” as an invitation to experience its diverse cultures, pristine beaches, and ancient temples. Government figures show visitor arrivals rocketing from 1.6 million in 2012 to 4.6 million in 2015.

But in 2016 the Ministry of Hotels and Tourism reported a drop of 38 per cent from the previous year, with the number of foreign tourists at 2.9 million. This time, however, the government had excluded day-trippers with border passes and business travelers from the figure.

The ministry has a target of 5 million visitors for 2017, perhaps emboldened by a 23 percent increase in tourist arrivals from April to July, compared to the same period last year – a total of 1.06 million visitors over the first four months of the 2017-18 fiscal year.

Yet since then, an issue profoundly more serious than counting visitors has shaken Myanmar. The situation in northern Rakhine State since August 25, together with international media coverage, has led to Tourist operators facing widespread cancelations – some boycotting the country, and others worried about safety.

Those based in Myanmar will know the violence has mostly been contained to one remote township near the Bangladesh border and poses no threat to tourists. Not only is Myanmar a famously safe country to travel, tourism also sustains many local communities.

Tourists contributed US$4.6 billion to the economy in 2016, according to the World Tourism Council’s Travel and Tourism Economic Impact 2017 Myanmar report. The number represents 6.6 percent of Myanmar’s GDP and was forecast to rise by 3.8 percent in 2017.

The report also noted that travel and tourism investment was expected to rise from $100 million in 2016 by 8.8

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MYANMORE magazine #13 November 2017

percent in 2017. Crucially, the industry accounted for 5.7 percent of employment (1,662,000 jobs) in 2016, according to the report – a number forecast to fall to 1,647,000 in 2017 but increase to 2,387,000 in 2027.

Often people complain that Myanmar is too expensive – that foreigners cushion steeper prices, low standards pervade accommodation and poor infrastructure hampers travel.

The government is making moves to address some of these concerns. Water buses have been introduced to counter Yangon’s notorious traffic and work is being carried out on a new airport on the outskirts of the city, set to be become the country’s key international gateway, with an initial capacity of 12 million passengers a year.

Tint Thwin, director general of the Directorate of Hotels and Tourism, said in an interview with Thailand-based daily The Nation in September that the tourism ministry has transformed some border gates into international entry gates and would allow more airplanes to fly direct.

He also hinted the ministry would allow foreigners to stay with locals, which would open the door to home stays. On the other end of the spectrum, there has been a surge in high-end hotel investments.

the trading headquarters of the Steel Brothers, one of the biggest British trading firms in Burma.

French AccorHotels Group plans to open a Pullman Hotel in Yangon in early 2018, with another earmarked for Mandalay.

The group also aims to open an MGallery chain at one of the country’s best-known attractions, Inle Lake, and an Ibis Styles hotel in northern Shan State’s Muse, a trading hub near the China border, within the next two years. Novotel Inle Lake Myat Min will soon open a sister property near the lake, as well.

Whether this will help the tourism ministry achieve its target of 7.5 million visitors by 2020 remains to be seen. But in the meantime, MYANMORE’s special travel edition reminds readers of the incredible allure of this country – both in wellknown attractions and lesser-known places.

We set off on a heritage walk in Yangon, dive into outdoor swimming in Mon State, explore relics of Shan royalty in Hsipaw and take readers into the heart of rural Bagan. Of course, Myanmar would not be Myanmar without some true adventures, so join us also in the mountainous villages of Chin State, the ancient Rakhine kingdom of Mrauk-U and the giant Buddhas of Sagaing Region. Plus we give you a rundown of Bagan’s best temples, top packing tips, and much more. Don’t forget the sunscreen!

In September, Korea’s largest hotel chain Lotte opened a 15-storey hotel with 343 rooms and 315 serviced apartments next to Yangon’s Inya Lake.

GCP Hospitality - owner of the famous Strand Hotel in downtown Yangon – launched in the city this year Hotel G, a lifestyle-concept hotel that has already seen success in Bangkok, Hong Kong and Singapore.

Singapore-based hotel and property giant Pan Pacific Hotels Group opened its first Myanmar branch next to Bogyoke Aung San Market.

Yangon Excelsior Hotel, a five star hotel renovation project of a heritage building in downtown Yangon, also plans to open this year. The four-storey building was previously

MYANMORE magazine #13 November 2017

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Travel Walking Tour

Secretariat Office Photos by Ethan

YANGON

A WALK TO REMEMBER: THE YANGON HERITAGE TRUST

By Malti Lahiri

T

he Yangon Heritage Trust (YHT), strategically located on Strand Street, offers tourists and history buffs with two routes down Yangon’s memory lane.

Route A covers the legal district, Sule Pagoda and Bogyoke Market,

Lawkanat building

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while Route B takes us down the commercial and administrative past.

Each walk is about 2.5 hours long, guided by witty and knowledgeable tour guides.

The YHT provides two time slots for the heritage walks; a personal recommendation would be the morning walk - fairly pleasant with a sneak-peek into Yangon’s morning ritual state.

A building on Pansodan Rd. MYANMORE magazine #13 November 2017

Just getting down the YHT office, the tour guide first gives you a glimpse of Yangon’s port - hardly a glimpse with the warehouses blocking the view of the dockyard - which is now one of the world’s largest. YHT aims to push legislative drives to get rid of the warehouses and re-beautify the view. The YHT office boasts a variety of archaic photographs, tiles and ruins from historic buildings in Yangon.

While walking along Bank Street, the tour guide brings to our notice the transformation of the buildings from the early 1900s to the present banks.

Although the Yangon Stock Exchange building stands strong, only a few companies trade, making it one of the least trading stock markets in the world!

Entering the vast expanse of Mahabandoola Park, we get to see quite a few historic sites; even where the very first department store in Myanmar – once the largest is Asia - had previously existed.

YHT walking tour group

The park overlooks the courts and City Hall where people would historically gather to protest against military rule. Then passing the majestic Sule Pagoda, built around 2,500 years ago, we walk towards the Musmeah Yeshua Synagogue; the only Jewish religious site in Myanmar. This synagogue carries two turors, which translates into “written bibles.” Initially the synagogue bore 128 turors. The turors must be handwritten with no mistakes; a single mistake made implies that the writer must begin once again from scratch - pity the one who makes an error on the final page!

Down the road, we’re permitted to enter into a Sunni mosque built by an Iranian architect in 1914. Originally a wooden building, the mosque is now in marble for restoration and maintenance purposes. Finally, the route leads up to the famous Bogyoke Aung San Market, also known as Scott Market, after the Municipal Commissioner at the time - Gavin Scott.

The tour guides leaves you to decide if you want to wander about the bustle of the local market or welcome the modern era by visiting Junction City, the mall next door.

Shia mosque

A very informative heritage walk, the tour surprises you with facts unknown and relics hidden from the typical traveler. A must-do activity on your checklist, the YHT promises you a well-polished glimpse into Yangon’s history and fascinating past.

Yangon Heritage Trust Walking Tour Tours are on Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday. Both routes are available in the morning (9am) and afternoon (4pm/3pm in December and January). Price US$30/person.

Book the tour: http://www.yangonheritagetrust.org/tours Address: 22-24 Pansodan Street, Kyauktada Township, Yangon 11182 Phone: 01 240 544 Email: info@yangonheritagetrust.org

Musmeah Yeshua Synagogue MYANMORE magazine #13 November 2017

Former Irrawaddy Flotilla Company building

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Travel

BAGAN

TOP ANCIENT SITES IN BAGAN

By Brittney Tun Photos by Ye Myat Tun, YMT Productions

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T

he first time I went to Bagan, I begged my husband to drop me off among the ruins and pick me up a month later. He laughed at my whim and I pouted like a baby on the flight back to Chicago. The experience fortified my decision to make Myanmar my home and, a short time later, I was leaving Chicago for good.

The only thing that could have heightened that first experience would have been knowing more about what I was looking at. There is a saying in Myanmar that one cannot point his finger in any direction without pointing to a pagoda. More than 2,000 temples endured an onslaught of earthquakes and the invasion of Kublai Khan’s Mongol army, and still a handful of sites have continued to garner praise through the ages.

Four relic pagodas commissioned by King Anawrahta, founder of the Pagan Empire, are linked to the supernatural.

It is said that if one prays for a single wish in each by noon, that wish will be granted. The pilgrimage to the “Wishing Pagodas” should begin in the wee hours of the morning, as the temples are spread out over neighboring villages, across the Ayeyarwady, and up mountains. The Shwe Zigon Pagoda sits in neighboring Nyaung-U, Lawkananda Pagoda rests near the bank of the Ayeyarwady River, Tuyin Taung lies near the highway between Kyaukpadaung and Nyaung-U, and Tant Kyi Taung Temple is perched across the river atop a mountain in Pakokku Township.

Late last year, I was asked by an old friend to look after a well-travelled colleague who was making a pitstop in Myanmar while on business. Though decidedly nonreligious, he was at a crisis point in his life. A loved one, who’d been battling with severe drug addiction and mental illness for years, had gone AWOL from his military post and homelessly wandered thousands of miles from home. My husband mentioned the Wishing Pagodas, where the gentleman went with an open mind. Two weeks later, that loved one appeared after more than a year on the run and has been clean since.

Not all pagodas in Bagan give off feel-good vibes. Several temples have a rather grim air about them. Consider the Ananda Temple: to uphold the uniqueness of its design, King Kyansittha executed the eight monks who had conjured up its plan during a meditative state.

MYANMORE magazine #13 November 2017

When you slide your hand across the Dhammayangyi Temple walls, take a moment to appreciate the fine seams between the mortar-less brickwork of Bagan’s largest pagoda. King Narathu, a particularly bloodthirsty fellow, mandated that it fit together so tightly that even a pin couldn’t pass between

the bricks. The punishment for laying an offending piece was death.

Manuha Temple, built by its namesake, the captive king from Thaton, expresses the suffocated feelings of the defeated royal while he was obliged to live out his life under King Anawrahta’s

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Travel

watchful eye. A massive Buddha awkwardly looms over the main hall, a vision so telling that pilgrims from Thaton still weep for their last monarch while visiting.

A photo album of Bagan is not complete without a snapshot of the sunset over the Myinkaba plain from atop Shwesandaw Pagoda. If rubbing shoulders with other sweaty tourists and evading hawkers isn’t what you fancy, you could also view an equally scenic sunrise and sunset at the lesser-known Lawkaoushaung Temple that sits to the west.

Touted as the oldest site in Bagan, Bupaya Pagoda, with its breathtaking view of the swollen Ayeyarwady and muted mountains beyond, is a charming pagoda so named because of its gourd-like shape. During the golden hour, you can take dizzying photos of the bulbous pagoda reflecting the sunbeams over the river and boats below.

Another lesser-known temple that I love is on the same road as the Bagan Hotel, south of the statuesque Gawdawpalin Temple, which is, in my opinion, the most conventionally beautiful pagoda in Bagan. The little pagoda nearby is on the smaller side, but you can climb all the way up in solitude and take effortless photos of the Gawdawpalin towering over canopies of green tamarind. But, no matter your choice, rest assured that you will not be disappointed.

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MYANMORE magazine #13 November 2017

MYANMORE magazine #13 November 2017

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Travel

Photo of Bagan Thiripyitsaya Sanctuary Resort

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MYANMORE magazine #13 November 2017

BAGAN'S DREAMY RIVERSIDE SUNSET

By Iris Alonso

T

raveling to a new place for a short time, I am always worried that I would not be able to cover enough ground or see everything I “must see.” All my worries disappeared when we entered Thiripyitsaya Sanctuary Resort. At the entrance, you’ll already see a few small temples in the compound itself—a sample of what Bagan offers in multitude. Walk a bit further past that, and you’ll find a breathtaking view of the Ayeyarwady River, their key feature and your new favorite sunset spot.

There are many hotels that provide a river view, but only Thiripyitsaya gives you history and luxury at a reasonable price. Thiripyitsaya is one of the original resorts in Bagan, and has become a household name among locals. It was used as the government’s guesthouse and, after being renovated in 1996, was used as a setting for old films and probably everyone’s vacation dreams.

The resort aged well thanks to its excellent quality management. The general manager does daily rounds every morning to check every brick and bush and has a service staff of 180 to maintain standards, and the results show. They have a landscape that could rival Maymyo Botanical Garden. It’s the perfect backdrop for private dinners, wedding photo shoots, and romantic proposals, all of which can be arranged by special request.

rise boat trip across the river towards Tant Kyi Taung Pagoda - one of the four wish-fulfilling pagodas housing the Buddha’s sacred tooth relics. Locals believe that if one can visit these four pagodas (including Law Ka Nanda, Tu Yin Taung, and Shwe Zee Gon Zedi) before 12 noon, you can make a wish.

Staying at the Thiripytisaya Sanctuary Resort was already a wish fulfilled. “Thiri” means peace, and it definitely lives up to its name.

With its rich culture, top-notch luxury, and picturesque landscape, your trip can also live up to the term “vacation.”

Excluding the Sakura Inn, there are three types of rooms: Deluxe Garden View Bungalow, Deluxe River View Bungalow, and the most luxurious, Premier River View Suites.

The deluxe rooms come with basic amenities, hot/cold showers, free wifi, and work area, with a bonus pair of lounge chairs at your own private terrace.

The price ranges from US$200-450, but savvy travelers could find online booking promos that could drop rates to as low as 50 percent.

The best time of the year is December to February when the flowers are in full bloom (bonus tip: good and safe weather for hot air balloons too). At Thiripyitsaya, you’re not only paying for a place to sleep, but an all-around Bagan experience.

People go to Bagan for the famous sunrise/ sunset view, but the real must-do is the sun-

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Travel

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MYANMORE magazine #13 November 2017

CHIN

THE ROAD TO

TEDIM

By James Fable

Tedim, the largest town in Chin State, sits roughly 2,000 meters up in the sublime Letha Taung mountains and is as beautiful as it is remote. Its devout Christian community, unusually reserved residents and peaceful atmosphere ensure an engaging experience for those determined – or, in our case, foolish – enough to venture there; visitors may even forget they’re in Myanmar.

Tedim is best accessed from Kalay in Sagaing Region via a winding mountain road that will take your breath away in more ways than one. It’s certainly worth visiting; the only question is when.

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Kalay to Tedim Almost every tourist comes to Tedim from Kalay (also known as Kalaymyo - “myo” means ‘town’ or ‘city’), near the Chin border. Buses to Tedim leave between 6-7.30am and arrive around 11am. Tickets cost 8,000 kyats and should be booked a day in advance.

Relentless rain was forecast for Tedim, but we headed for the looming misty mountains anyway. As we passed out of Kalay, pagodas gradually gave way to churches. Twenty minutes in, the bus stopped by a pair of Christian grave stones on the roadside. “Amen,” and the journey continued: higher into the mountains, the views getting better every minute. Christian rock played over the stereo – “Jesus! Jesus!

Come on and save us!” – and the 10-month-old baby in front of us was changed into a cute woolly hat, jumper and trousers.

Halfway up, things started to go downhill (metaphorically, of course). The road became bumpy and narrowed; tarmac was replaced by sludgy mud.

We were regularly thrown from our

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seats and I could hardly bare to look at the 12 inches of earth protecting us from the precipice.

“Asin-pyi-la?” asked the mother of the baby.

“Asin-ma-pyi-bu,” I answered. “I’m scared.”

The lady shrieked with laughter, but my fear was not unfounded. As we ripped round corners and through thick mud, the mini bus wobbled, bounced and tilted. The further we went the more limited our conversation topics became. Eventually, they boiled down to just two: mountains and dying.

Then the inevitable happened: stuck in the mud, right beside the cliff edge.

The driver revved the engine, wheels span and the bus bounced horribly, but we went nowhere. The second attempt brought more of the same, but again no luck. The driver reversed once more to give it a third try. This time it was full throttle: the wheels slipped, mud splattered every window, and the bus struggled over toward

the edge – somehow it had pulled through. Everyone exhaled heavily, and we gave the driver a relieved round of applause. The road began to improve, cue for the music to come back on. Finally, we could relax. Jesus had returned: we were saved, though we would have to make the same journey, but downhill, in two days’ time.

Tedim It turned out that we had been right to distrust the weather forecast: blue skies were common, showers only occasional, and the temperature was easily above 16 degrees Celsius. We stayed in Ciimnuai Guesthouse, which sits beside the clock tower and is run by a welcoming family. For 10,000 kyats each, we got clean beds and use of the shared bathroom; rumor has it that the owners can even secure their guests hot water. A tasteful wooden common room with superb mountain views tops everything off nicely.

The name “Tedim” describes a mountain pool: “te” means “bright” or “shine” and “dim” means “twinkling” or “sparkling” in Tedim (also known as

Zomi, Zou or Chin), a Kukish language which uses the Latin alphabet. Tedim town is essentially a single main street with smaller ones branching off it. The houses are largely colorful, the roads hardly stained with betel (we only saw a few people chewing) and the Christian locals far shyer than Buddhist Burmans; it’s the only place in Myanmar where my smiles and “Mingalabar”-s have been regularly returned with cold stares. When we learnt the Tedim greeting – “Dam maw” – they warmed to us a little but not considerably.

Perhaps the reason for their reticence was their religion (at least, we couldn’t come up with any other explanation).

The residents’ faith was palpable; churches were ubiquitous – Baptist, Evangelist, Catholic, Seventh-day Adventist and other denominations. Children praised god loudly every morning from 5-7am and every evening from 7pm onwards. Believers invited us into their local churches, and one guy even asked if we would come to his home to pray for him and his family.

Another monotheistic religion, Pau Cin Hau, also has its home in Tedim.

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Founded eponymously in the early 20th century, its followers worship a god called Paisan and live in various parts of north-western Myanmar.

The nearby Siangsawn Model Village, a community built in 2006, houses a mirrored showpiece structure, whose infinitely reflecting images supposedly represent what Pau Cin Hau sees from the heavens.

A teacher carrying a live chicken in a plastic bag invited us into a different village, one a little north of Tedim.

Naturally, we followed. An old lady with terrible teeth led us round, and a sweet family treated us to a rice soup containing animal innards, a hot cup of milk and a local alcoholic beverage made from sweetcorn. At the end, one of the guys tried to give me a 1,000 kyats – Burmese hospitality at its most benevolent – but I couldn’t take half a day’s wages from him.

Photos by James Fable

Afterward, we headed to the teacher’s school, where we were told that the children had never seen foreigners before. When we arrived, the kids were working on the school grounds – slicing grass with machetes, moving stones, playing football, the usual – a ritual they repeat every Friday. At first they ran away from us, terrified by these oddly dressed, white giants, but with some juggling and funny voices they soon found their laughs – a few even dared to shake our hands.

Visiting this village was an enriching experience, and we were stunned at how much more open its residents were than Tedim’s.

Back to Kalay...

Buses to Kalay also leave between 6-7.30am, but the downhill journey only costs 7,000 kyats. No buses on the Sabbath; make sure to book in advance.

It rained heavily the night before we were due to leave, and the morning was misty. Dreading what the road would be like, we got in the mini bus and set off. Five minutes in, first incident: a bus ahead of us had got stuck in the mud. It took our driver six attempts to pass the same bog, and then he tried with the other bus. No luck.

We rounded the next corner and pulled up to collect more passengers, when one of the young Burmese guys

sitting in front of us suddenly clambered out the window and ran off down the road. What had happened?

At first I thought nothing – at least, that’s the impression the traffic cop calmly smoking a cheroot gave me – but my eyes were not deceiving me. A truck carrying boxes of soft drinks had capsized.

We drove over and got out to have a look. Fortunately, it hadn’t fallen over

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the edge and no one had been hurt.

In fact, it was all fun and games for the locals – though it was over an hour before a digger arrived to clear the road and upright the truck.

a journey we ever plan to repeat. My advice: go to Tedim, a beautiful and fascinating unique town in Myanmar – but, unless you wish to dance with death, don’t risk it in the rainy season.

It’s often just a fine line that divides humor and tragedy; on this occasion, that line was the narrow strip of mud separating the overturned truck from the precipice. We made it down with a few more close calls, but it wasn’t

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Travel

SMALL VILLAGES AND BIG BUDDHA: A MYINT AND BODHI TATAUNG

By James Fable

M

onywa, the capital of Sagaing Region, usually serves as a mere stopping point for tourists traveling between Bagan and Mandalay, but it’s worth lingering in the city to see some nearby attractions.

One of these is the ancient A Myint, a charming riverside village dotted with 336 Bagan-style stupas, and another is Bodhi Tataung, a picturesque hill

A Myint

Bago’s tribute ‘gift’ to Anawratha. To reach this delightful town, you’ll need to arrange a private taxi from Monywa or hire a motorbike – you can do the latter for 10,000 kyats from the Shwe Taung Tarn Hotel.

on, riddled with potholes and bounding with dirt moguls. Take the longer – but quicker – route round: follow the main road to Chaung-U, then take a right onto the bumpy, but asphalted, country lane leading to A Myint.

A Myint sits on the edge of the Chindwin River, 24 kilometers south of Monywa, and is supposedly the site of an 11th century love scandal involving King Anawrahta, his foremost general and Princess Manisanda, the king of

I opted for the motorbike, planning to head first to A Myint and then to Bodhi Tataung on my way back. It was a good plan, but don’t take the direct road from Monywa to A Myint, as I did: it’s easily the worst road I’ve ever ridden

Unsurprisingly, I was the only tourist there, and as such I was warmly welcomed by the village community. An old lady with a scratchy voice forcefed me tealeaf salad at an alms collection, and many locals invited me into their homes for tea and broken conversation. Aimless wandering along the dusty roads between wooden houses is highly recommended. If you stumble into someone’s garden, don’t worry: they’ll probably be pleased to see you – expect giggles and an embarrassed chorus of “mingalabar”!

home to the world’s second largest Buddha. Together, A Myint and Boddhi Tataung make for an excellent day trip from Monywa.

On my journey round, I saw children doing high jump, men playing tway – a gambling game which involves casting small seashells into a bowl and seeing which way up they land – and novice monks playing the rural favorite, Hitthe-Pile-of-Rocks-With-a-Flip-flop. A visit to the river won’t go amiss either; under clear skies, the riverside setting is quite attractive. Locals are currently working on expanding the port.

The main attraction of A Myint is its historical stone stupas, a few of which contain beautiful, original murals.

The central stupa complex surrounds a small teak monastery, but wander round the village and you’ll find stunning pagodas scattered all over.

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MYANMORE magazine #13 November 2017

MYANMORE magazine #13 November 2017

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The pagodas date back to the Inwa, or Ava, period, which began in the 14th century; though most are now dilapidated and sprouting vegetation, they’re still a delight to behold. The restoration techniques used in Bagan may be controversial, but A Myint appears to make no effort whatsoever to preserve its ancient heritage: locals litter in and around the pagodas, and livestock has taken over others.

My stroll round was accompanied by frequent loud bangs. Eventually, I became curious and so ventured to their source. It was two novice monks and two young boys in a new pagoda complex. None were older than eight; all were playing with firecrackers. The monks came over to ask for money, and then one of their friends threw a

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firecracker toward us. The monks fled, and there was a deafening bang! But the firecracker hadn’t exploded: one of the monks had smashed his head against a metal pole.

then replaced the blood-drenched tissues. The injured monk’s face was an awkward mix of embarrassment and concern; when I applied the plaster, it became one of ashamed relief.

The boys began laughing as blood gushed from the monk’s shaven head and onto his bare feet. I dropped everything and handed him some tissues. His friends continued to light explosives, and the other monk began brushing down my bag because the ground had made it dusty. (Traditionally in Myanmar, you don’t leave belongings on the floor. Whenever I do, somebody picks them up and puts them on a chair. Nevertheless, I was shocked that the young monk prioritized cleaning my bag over helping his friend). I told him not to bother, and

“Leq-s’aun! Leq-s’aun!” cried the other monk, and he gave me a firecracker the size of my index finger as a thankyou gift. I offered the patched-up monk some water and suggested he sit down. But he didn’t want water, and he certainly didn’t want to sit down: he wanted to light more firecrackers.

Bodhi Tataung Karma high, I rode onto Bodhi Tataung. Situated 18 kilometers east of Monywa and 10 kilometers off the Monywa road, it’s the perfect place to

stop on your way back from A Myint.

Its name means “1,000 Buddha,” and its hilltop setting affords wonderful views. The grounds are dominated by Lay Kyun Sakkya, the 130-meter high standing Buddha built in 2008, but the compound also houses one of the world’s largest reclining Buddha (95 meters long), and construction is underway to create an enormous seated Buddha. The place is simply abundant with Buddha – some of which you can even climb on or enter – and entry is gratis.

The main road into the site passes Thanboddhay Paya, an impressive gilded pagoda guarded by two commanding white elephants (3,000 kyats admission). Drive on toward the biggest Buddha, and you’ll see some-

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thing that might also be a first for you: a Buddha lying flat on his back with a roof over his face – a form of sunglasses, perhaps? Even more curiously, you can climb on this Buddha, though his legs were strewn with smashed beer bottles when I scaled it.

Further up sits Aung Setkya Paya – whose upper rim, accessed via an inner passageway, offers photogenic, panoramic vistas – and on from this reclines a big golden Buddha, which has an entrance so that visitors can view its decorated innards. But these won’t blow you away – wait to get inside Lay Kyun Sakkya. This giant standing Buddha is the master of Bodhi Tataung and a popular pilgrimage spot for locals. Best of all, you can

climb up it – well, 27 of its 33 total inner floors – and marvel at the gruesome murals contained within: giants stewing humans in a gigantic pot; people being cast from mountains onto burning stakes – condemnation scenes depressed Renaissance artists would have rated. Infernal images only occupy the first few floors, though. As you near Buddha’s head, ascending the steep, interminable stairways, images of enlightenment become the norm – coincidence? Decide for yourself. Sadly, deep-set windows caked in grime deny any opportunities for good views. Doors close at 5pm.

The tall guy wasn’t my favorite Buddha, however. I found the seated Buddha under construction more

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fascinating, and there was something oddly satisfying about being greeted by someone sitting in a Buddha’s elbow. Currently, the seated Buddha is covered in bamboo scaffolding and capped with a red crane – an outfit it is likely to be wearing for a while.

To reach it, take the right fork at the earlier crossroads (instead of going straight up toward the standing Buddha). Behind its back, you might see an entirely female workforce chopping up stones soon to be part of the structure.

Myanmar. A Myint has all the quirks and charm of rural life, combined with a rich history and spectacular stupas; Bodhi Tataung is a fabulous scene of towering Buddha atop a hill that offers excellent views, simple but stunning.

Navigation is easy, so find yourself a ride in Monywa and get going – a rewarding day out awaits you.

Heading off the beaten track can often be a hassle that goes unrewarded, but visiting A Myint and Bodhi Tataung was easily one of the better trips to lesser-known places that I’ve made in

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Travel

MRAUK U: INTREPID TRAVEL IN AN ANCIENT KINGDOM

By Susan Bailey

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MYANMORE magazine #13 November 2017

Green fields and clear skies in Mrauk U MYANMORE magazine #13 November 2017

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Travel

Cycling in the countryside

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HOW TO GET THERE

O

n paper, Mrauk U seems to be the dream destination for intrepid travelers. Ancient temples untouched by time, miles of verdant rice terraces and rolling hills to explore, an epic journey to reach and few, if any, tourists. On more than one occasion I have reached one of these ‘dream destinations’ and been left scratching my head, wondering if I had perhaps hopped off at the wrong bus station.

But on a recent trip to Mrauk U I was pleasantly surprised to find the former Rakhine capital lives up to the hype. For three blissful days my travel companion and I rode bikes through spectacular countryside villages, explored evocative historic temples and cruised languid waterways with little more than the occasional cow or monk getting in my way.

The number of visitors are likely to be even lower now since the outbreak of violence between militants and the Myanmar Army in northern Rakhine State and the unfolding humanitarian crisis. However, travel industry figures have reported that Mrauk U has been unaffected by the conflict, which erupted roughly 90 kilometers west near the Bangladesh border.

Getting There We flew from Yangon to Rakhine capital Sittwe. Knowing that we would arrive late in the day, we opted for a private car transfer to Mrauk U rather than the longer boat journey.

The drive was beautiful and surprisingly pleasant. Although not entirely smooth, the road has improved dramatically in recent years and we reached Mrauk U in just over three hours, as the sun was setting.

Exploring Mrauk U’s Temples The next day, armed with a basic map provided by our hotel, we set off to explore the temples. The northern group of temples, the largest collection of monuments, is located just off the town’s main road so it is easy to reach on foot from most hotels. We spent the morning walking from site to site, stopping to enter some monuments and admiring others from afar.

After lunch, we hired bikes for the princely sum of 2,000 kyats and headed to the southern and eastern groups. What started as a pleasant ride soon turned into a more challenging adventure than desired. Recent rains had left the countryside’s sealed roads pock-marked with massive potholes and the dirt roads converted to mud pits. Due to our erratic riding, and occasional falls, we attracted a lot of attention from the local villagers and generous offers to help us along the way. Our effort was rewarded as we discovered more stunning, and empty, temples.

Mrauk U Sittwe

Biking Mrauk U Based on the recommendation of a friend, we arranged a tour with Mrauk U Cycling for our second day in town.

Ko Bee, our guide and the owner of the company, greeted us at our hotel after breakfast. Alongside him were brand new 24-speed mountain bikes, a welcomed change from the previous day’s rusty single-speed bikes. As we pedaled off into the countryside, I chatted to Ko Bee about his business and view of tourism. “I was tired of classic tours and just showing our guests pagodas and Chin villages.

Mrauk U and its surroundings are beautiful and unspoiled, so I developed biking routes that let visitors see the landscapes and experience local life in the countryside,” he said.

Our half-day tour with Ko Bee was excellent. We covered about 30 kilometers on flat roads, some sealed while others were packed dirt tracks.

There were plenty of stops along the way to take photos and to explore villages where, it seemed, we were the first foreigners to visit. The highlight was a village filled with betel nut plantations. As luck should have it, we arrived just as the seasonal harvest was beginning. Despite seeing betel nut on sale everywhere in Myanmar and having seen the scrawny tall trees that produce the eponymous nut, I had never given much thought to how they were harvested. The process involves climbing to the top of one tree then using a special technique to make it sway and bend toward other trees.

When in close reach, the betel picker takes a precise swipe at the tree with his scythe and the nuts drop to the

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Yangon

Yangon to Sittwe 50 min Sittwe to Myauk U 2hr 51 min

ground. The skill and apparent danger makes Bagan’s toddy climbers look like amateurs.

We returned to Mrauk U by long tail boat, cruising past many more betel plantations and enjoying the cool breeze. Then pedaled a short distance to our hotel just as the sky darkened for an afternoon shower.

The Journey Home The next day we made our way back to Yangon, opting for the slow public ferry to Sittwe at 7am followed by a flight. The five-hour journey did not disappoint, even after a weekend filled with ‘wow’ experiences. Great, unobstructed views of the Kaladan River, a pleasant breeze and plenty of space to move around made it a thoroughly enjoyable journey. And we arrived on time, leaving us enough time for lunch in Sittwe before catching our return flight.

Why Visit Mrauk U Now? An estimated 6-8,000 foreign visitors visited in 2016, a number that is set to be even lower this year. While Bagan has seen steady growth - reaching around 350,000 visitors last year - arrivals to Mrauk U have dropped. Sadly, the ongoing Rohingya crisis has taken its toll on tourism, as well as devastating the lives of hundreds of thousands, of course.

No violence has been reported in the town. For some, now may be the best time to visit. In 2020 a new airport is scheduled to open a short drive from the archeological zone, greatly reducing travel time. In that same year, it is possible that Unesco will grant World Heritage status to Mrauk U, a distinction that will certainly increase the number of visitors.

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Travel

HSIPAW

TIME TO VISIT HSIPAW

Modern Myanmar

“Lost in time” is a phrase habitually used in attempts to express the essence of Myanmar. Compared to its neighbors, Myanmar appears a purer, simpler, more rural and traditional corner of Asia; Buddhist monks continue to shuffle in slow procession down roads each morning, almost all food is bought from markets and street vendors and longyis (the Burmese sarong) are worn by most of the population most of the time.

And yet, development is occurring apace, meaning that today’s Myanmar is in flux between the stagnation perpetuated by the former military junta and the stuttering teething pains of its tenuous curve towards democracy. In downtown Yangon one will pass the crumbling colonial grandeur of the British empire interspersed with a multitude of mobile phone shops and fried chicken outlets. Cheap motorbikes from China splutter past oxen and carts and Camel Cigarettes are sold next to sticky quids of betel nut.

Hsipaw Village - Photo by Boris le Montagner

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recounts her time living in the valley of Hsipaw as a Shan Princess, bearing two daughters, becoming fluent in both Shan and Burmese language, and endearing herself to the people of the region. However this paradisiacal time was short lived. Sao Kya Seng disappeared in the military coup of 1962, reportedly abducted and killed by the Burmese military, the Tatmadaw.

Hsipaw East Haw - Photo by Bertie Alexander

The Hsipaw Palace and the region at large fell into decrepitude during the junta years. In the 1970s the travel writer Paul Theroux traveled to Burma to take the train across the Gokteik Viaduct in the hope of reaching Hsipaw. Attempting to board the train in Pyin Oo Lwin, he was regarded with suspicion by the authorities - the young sergeant doubted that Theroux could be a real tourist because he had no camera. The writer was eventually allowed to board the train, sat squarely among a troop of watchful soldiers in “dented helmets and hand-medown uniforms” conjuring a “grizzled, courageous look you see in embattled legionnaires.”

Hsipaw Today

Hsipaw - Sampan Travel - Photo by Harry Carr Ellison

Hsipaw in Time Back in the junta days, tourists travelling in Myanmar were limited to a whirlwind seven day tour of the ‘Grand Four’ of Yangon, Bagan, Mandalay, and Inle Lake. In addition to the beauty and cultural interests of these sites, the Grand Four remain the dominant destinations to visit in the country because of the sites’ prevalence of hotels and transport channels in and out, and a lack of innovation in the tourism sector.

Even as recently as 2015, it was arduous or expensive (often both) to reach the most exciting parts of Myanmar.

However the rapid construction of roads and tourism infrastructure

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has made many more areas easily accessible.

One such place is Hsipaw in northern Shan State. Once the home of Shan royalty, Hsipaw is the namesake of Burma’s last king, Thibaw. The Shan states were formerly tributary states to the Imperial Court of the Burmese Konbaung Dynasty (1752-1885). The young nobility of Shan - named the “Lords of the Sunset” - were traditionally brought up with the Burmese princes in the courts of Amarapura, Ava and Mandalay, while many of their sisters were married into Burmese royalty.

The close relationship between the Bamar and Shan rulers was torn apart

in the 1880s. After the annexation of Burma by the British, the young sunset lords found themselves growing into their long trousers not as guests at the Konbaung palaces but as students at places such as Eton and Harrow. As part of the British policy of divide and rule, while the Burmese were largely stripped of all rank and authority, the Shan princes were granted much autonomy during colonial times, keeping their titles and palaces.

In 1947, a year before the British left what was then Burma, Sao Kya Seng became the last prince of Hsipaw. In 1949 he enrolled at a college in Colorado where he was to meet his future wife, the Austrian Inge Sargent. In her memoir Twilight Over Burma, Sargent

Almost half a century later this journey from Pyin Oo Lwin over the viaduct to Hsipaw is one of the most popular routes for intrepid travel in Myanmar. One boards the lolloping train at about 8.30am in the morning (an ‘Upper Class’ ticket costing roughly US$2), passing paddy fields and villagers washing with, as Theroux wrote, a “spirited soapy violence.” As one approaches Hsipaw the landscape turns European save for the farmers in their conical hats surrounded by playing children “purpling in the sunset.”

The town is quickly becoming a popular alternative to the much trawled Kalaw-Inle Lake trekking route. At Hsipaw, hiking up into the hills of the Paluang tea farmers does not offer the lake vistas of southern Shan State, but instead presents an altogether more jungle-esque experience. The tracks are smaller, the incline steeper, and the villagers one comes across that much less accustomed to traipsing backpackers. Whereas around Inle local

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Hsipaw Village Boys - Photo by Boris le Montagner

children have become adept at asking for handouts in a variety of different languages, those in the Hsipaw hills expose their inexperience in such matters by waving ‘bye-bye’ when they see foreigners, mistaking the phrase for a welcoming salutation.

Additional pleasures to be found in hiking around Hsipaw are the chance to spot Myanmar’s elusive black giant squirrel, and pauses for breath on cliffside shacks, fortifying flagging spirits with the local rice whiskey.

The town of Hsipaw itself also has much to offer the discerning traveller, especially those with a penchant for history. The palace or ‘haw’ where Sao Kya Seng and Inge Sargent lived is now occupied by the late prince’s elderly

nephew Donald and his wife Fearn. At 3 p.m. on most days an excitable crowd of people from Myanmar and a smattering of tourists clutching Sargent’s book gather outside the gates and are admitted into the grounds of the East Haw. The garden is surprisingly unkempt but this adds to the “lost in time” atmosphere, as does the empty swimming pool set forlornly among tangles of shrubbery, creeper, and clumps of red earth.

Into the front living room first Burmese and then foreigners are admitted. They sit about on poufs and small chairs listening as either Donald or Fern tell the story of the town’s last king (Inge and her two daughters fled to Austria after the disappearance of her husband, and now live in the Unit-

Additional pleasures to be found in hiking around Hsipaw are the chance to spot Myanmar’s elusive black giant squirrel, and pauses for breath on cliffside shacks, fortifying flagging spirits with the local rice whiskey.

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ed States.) Those who have read Inge’s book would be aware that Sao Kya Seng and his brother, Donald’s father, had a fraught relationship (his brother being the elder and therefore supposedly the rightful heir to the palace), and when the story related at the East Haw differs from that in Inge’s book, the intrigue is further ramped up.

With the sun beginning to set, after leaving the East Haw one can traipse further up Hsipaw’s main road to Little Bagan, a peppering of ancient pagodas in a similar style to their more famous mid-country brethren. Though there is nothing to rival Bagan, the sight of a flowering tree sprouting out of one of these pagodas is worth seeking out. Nearby is Mrs Popcorn’s Garden, where an elderly Shan lady cooks up local dishes and also those of Mexico and Israel, taught to her by cuisiniers traveling through Hsipaw.

A Time to Visit Hsipaw And yet, as with all the best places, there are more layers to peel back; always more to discover.

An interesting time to visit Hsipaw is over the Thadingyut festival in October, for at this time one can witness a great contradiction of Myanmar: it’s ingrained, almost prudish, conserva-

tism in contrast with its love of revelry and festivity.

Thadingyut Festival of Lights is celebrated countrywide. The Mahamuni Pagoda in Hsipaw becomes an array of candles in the evening while ladies dressed in brown robes sit on the floor of the pagoda and chant sonorously. Three days later comes the pagoda festival where the men and boys take to the streets to escort bamboo towers of “special things” to Mahamuni. All are dressed up, many having applied face paint and thick eye-liner; EDM and K-Pop boom out from ghetto-blasters as the procession writhes and twirls with abandon, novice monks weaving in and out firing toy pistols into the sky.

With the odd ladyboy sauntering down the parade, and Vengaboys and other Western hits from the ‘90s slipping into the largely Asian playlist, one may come to the conclusion, as one young buck put it when passing through in 1889, that this country is not so much stuck in time, but timeless.

This article was written by Sampan Travel, a boutique-green tour operator based in Yangon, creating tailor-made journeys through Myanmar.

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Advertorial

THE HUMAN QUALITY IN HUMAN CAPITAL: WHY WORKPLACE MENTAL HEALTH IS A CORE VALUE FOR YOUR ORGANIZATION

By Su Su Maung, M.A., LMFT, DCC, EAS-C, Citta Consultancy

Image by Tommy Simoncini

H

uman resource is unique. Other geo-physical resources, such as forestry, gemstones, oil, and livestock, diminish over use. Some of these physical resources could be replenished with the right investment and development. However, each of them on its own has fixed consumption capacity. Human resource differs in this regard, because humans have the ability to create. More impor-

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tantly, we have the ability to learn and improve our creativity in the form of productivity. With the right cultivation of these abilities, human resource is well placed to increase in our capacities over time.

According to UNFPA reports, there are an estimated 55 million people in Myanmar in 2017. The 2014 census in Myanmar found that 47 percent of the population are working in some form of employment. Seventeen percent of

those who are working are employed in private organizations. Though the level of skilled labor and qualified staff may vary depending on the industry, Myanmar, in general, has a large pool of human resources for organizations and companies that operate in the country. With the large pool of human resource, how can organizations and businesses make the best out of their human capacities? In other words, how do we build human capital within our human resources? With this ques-

tion, it is crucial to be mindful about the human aspect of human capital, because it is within this human-ness, or the humanity, that we will find the answer.

When we are looking into the human quality, we have to consider human psychology and socio-cultural contexts. This is where learning happens and creativity occurs. Human creativity is the resource for industry-leading characteristics, such as

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inventive problem-solving, production efficiency, marketing, and innovation in all aspects of work flow and supply chain processes. In a country like Myanmar, where resource hacking has been common for decades due to limited physical and financial resources affected by the closed nature of its economy during the past five decades, creativity is ripe for picking among its large pool of human resource. Myanmar people’s capacity for resource hacking is explored in the 2016 TEDx Inya Lake talk by Yan Naung Oak on “Why Myanmar is a nation of hackers”.

However, as with any harvest, one must know how to cultivate and how to pick the right “fruit for labor.” More importantly, one must invest in the careful nurturing of these “fruits for labor.”

Though much of popular belief is that people with mental illnesses tend to have great creativity, one aspect of human creativity is that those who are experiencing mental health problems are limited with their ability to be productive. Judith Herman, in her book Trauma and Recovery, describes how trauma traps a person in disconnection and disintegration, without a coherent story. A coherent, integrated narrative is important in problem-solving. Finding connections between diverse and seemingly unrelated perspectives to create a new and creative solution or product is an important part of design thinking, a skill in innovation that has been recognized and developed into a model by the Stanford University d. school. The Ministry of Health and Sports national demographic and health surveys in 2015 and 2016 reported that 74 percent of children in Myanmar have

What are your organizational values you want that are to be reflected in your staff? Who are your human resources – what are their cultures and languages, and what are their personal and social needs?

experienced psychological aggression by their parents, 43 percent of children experienced physical aggression by parents, and 21 percent of married women have experienced domestic violence. An abundance of studies in various countries have linked trauma to development of mental health problems. wIn order to fully utilize the human capital, especially in the socio-cultural context of Myanmar workforce, one must consider mental health as a core value of human resource in the organization. Abraham Maslow’s hierarchy of needs places self-actualization abilities, such as creativity, as a result of having achieved psychological, social, and safety needs. It is not only trauma that impacts mental health. Work stress can also have significant effects on mental health. If there is little or no attention given to the stress level at workplaces, work stress can become epidemic. Work stress can come from various factors, such as interpersonal conflicts with colleagues, work shifts and work-life balance problems, lack of personal career growth, and work overload.

MYANMORE magazine #13 November 2017

Though various psychosocial and wellness programs can address prevention of mental health problems, mental health is a specialized field that requires qualified professionals and standards of care to address the nuances of humanity and psychosocial afflictions. If mental health is a core value for the human resource of any organization, then it is only due diligence to ensure that the wellness programs for the employees are provided in consultation with professionals trained not only in mental health, but also in the employee-employer dynamics and workplace environment. Employee Assistance Programs (EAPs) are created to address these very specific needs of human resource in organizations. As with the uniqueness and nuances of each individual and his/her socio-cultural groups, EAPs should be able to accommodate for the socio-cultural and psychological needs of the employees they will be serving.

human resource are as follows: What are your organizational values you want that are to be reflected in your staff? Who are your human resources – what are their cultures and languages, and what are their personal and social needs? What are the inherent stressors within your production or work flow processes? How can you ensure easy access to care, efficiency of care provision, and effectiveness of care services so that you are making full use of the investment into your human capital? There are many more considerations, but these will give a good headstart into sowing the seeds to grow the human capacities in your workforce and develop your human capital.

Citta Consultancy is a psychological consulting firm set up with the intention to shift paradigms for the heart/mind of individuals and organizations by providing wellness programs, training and consultation. Our website is at http:// www.cittaconsultancy.com.

Some of the questions helpful in thinking about developing wellness programs or incorporating EAPs to support the mental health of your

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Horoscope

HOROSCOPE San Zar Ni Bo, San Zar Ni Bo, a former political prisoner-turnedfortuneteller, is a highly respected name in Myanmar. He’s known for his palm reading technique, birthdate and naming. His well-known prediction, before the November 2015 elections, was that against all odds, Aung San Suu Kyi would assume a leading position in the government. Read on to find out what he says is in store for the month of November.

Sunday

Tuesday

It seems to be positive in every field. A long period of emotional disturbances will be ended and joint ventures will prove beneficial. Money matters can be discussed systematically and successfully, while matters in which others are unwilling can be carried out successfully. Social welfare is foreseen. You must take care of your health. You can overcome rivals and difficulties. Profits can be expected from previous investments, and achievements owing to industry, but former diseases will return due to a careless way of living.

This day has directions for good fortune and improvements in life.

Ideas and aims should be systematically carried out. Personal efficiency must be applied in realizing aims and objectives. Using opportunities methodically will see desires reached. This is a suitable period to talk about money matters and old loans within the family. Blocked courses will reopen.

Direct dealings with foreigners will be lead to successful business. Slight danger from dishonest peeople may occur.

Lucky Colors: Red, Blue, Gray Lucky Numbers: 0,5,8,7

Lucky Colors: Red,Pink,Dark,Blue Lucky Numbers: 9, 1,5,4

Rahul

Friday

(Wednesday night before dawn on Thursday) Age-old rights and money will unexpectedly be had in this period.

News from other nationalities will be advantageous. Success in business will be seen, contacting with far off lands. Family members will see change in land and house, the old being sold and the new bought. You may hear news from those who are abroad. Changes in land, car, and house among family members are foreseen. Matters concerning a change of places will run well.

There will be emotional upsets at the hands of others. Extra work will have to be done. Interest will waver. There will be worries and anxieties. Money will come in and go out. It does not stay with you.

Good opportunities will knock on your door. Quarrels with intimate friends and tiredness dealing with accounts will occur. Things will eventually run well.

Lucky Colors: Gold,Red,Amber Lucky Numbers: 3,6,9,8

Lucky Colors: Dark Gray, White, Red Lucky Numbers: 0,9,5,1

Monday

Wednesday

Thursday

Saturday

Improvement will be accompanied by a remarkable change. Foreigners will give advantages and good friends will give you a helping hand, though loss of personal belongings may occur. Be careful in lending money, as it will be difficult to get back. Also, beware of pickpockets. Matters concerning travels will go smoothly. Successive exceptional satisfactions will result from changes and moves.

Problems of close friends will have to be solved.

Family expenses will be greater than usual. The circle of friends will become wider and help to others can be made. Misunderstandings will have to be settled. Travelling, if planned, can be arranged in this period. Life will improve. Deal with matters without fear. Good ideas are stirring. Incoming money will not stay. You may be given good presents. Unusual but good skills will be developed, attracting the praise of seniors.

This is a very good month for those born on a Thursday. Efficiency can be shown so much that others will respect you. Emotional upsets seem to be at home due to others.

Rash actions must be avoided.

Patience and temperament must be controlled in doing things.

Gifts from abroad will arrive for the family. Aims will succeed. Improvement will be made despite bad intentions. Happiness will be enjoyed. Exceptional skills can be acquired.

Your helpful nature and genuine goodwill toward others will be answered this month. Money and business matters will be successful to your will. Slight ill health - particularly in the stomach - is foreseen. Auspicious deeds will have to be led. Pains in joints will occur. Improvement will be made for those in the educational field. Wealth will increase. People born on Monday or Tuesday will benefit.

Lucky Colors: White, Green, Gray Lucky Numbers: 2,4,8,9

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Lucky Colors: Green, Yellow, Silver Lucky Numbers: 5, 2,6,1

Lucky Colors: Yellow, Orange, Ivory Lucky Numbers: 0,8,4,2

Lucky Colors: Black, Dark Blue, Yellow Lucky Numbers: 2,4,6,8

MYANMORE magazine #13 November 2017

Card Deals | Tickets | Promotions

MYANMORE TICKETS https://ticket.myanmore.com

MYANMORE CARD Trending Deals Thai Linn - 20% off total bill No. 24, Ahthawka Street , Kyout Myoung, Termwae .

09421171313/09450027661/09253576346

Loi Sam Sip - 10% off total Bill.

- 15% off total Bill.(2 pm to 5 pm) No.31, Shin Saw Pu Road, Sanchaung Township 09965187259

TMT Hair Design - 30% off total bill Urban Asia Center, 1st floor ( Corner of Mahabandoola Rd. & 48th St. ) Botahtaung Township 09 459863429

Root - 10% off total bill Bo Myat Htun Road, corner of Maha Bandula Road, Botahtaung Township, Yangon 09 45669 6695

WATERZONIC MYANMAR 2017

with canapé complementing the wine and cheese.

Waterzonic is one of the biggest EDM music festivals in Thailand and it is being brought to Yangon for Thingyan Festival celebration. For the first time in Myanmar, Brave Entertainment proudly presents KNIFE PARTY, TUJAMO and ZANON as Headliner for Waterzonic Myanmar 2017. As a supporting local DJ artists : DJ BeBe, ROXA and OU J will be there at the event.

$24 nett per person inclusive of freeflow of wine and cheese.

You can get ticket here at our myanmore ticket website with limited discount.

Check here : www.ticket.myanmore. com

Melia’s award-winning Sunday Brunch has been upgraded with free-flow of two additional refreshing cocktails – Mojito and Sangria.

Get ready for the best of Asia and Europe, combined in a unique setting.

WINE, CHEESE AND GYPSY JAZZ

$48 net per person inclusive of freeflow sparkling wine, Mojito, Sangria, house wine, beer, soft drinks, chilled juice and water and $21 for the kids.

Please call 01 934 5000 for booking and further inquiries.

Foodfare Fusion Kitchen - 10% off total bill No.(102/104), Kyaik Kasan Road, Tamwe Township, Yangon 09 770 099638

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SUNDAY BRUNCH AT MELIÁ YANGON FOR EVERY SUNDAY

Chatrium Hotel Royal Lake Yangon has brought back the monthly wine tasting event at Lobby Lounge to get taste 4 Italian Wines and 6 Italian Cheeses

Take advantage of Myanmore Ticket limited prepaid discounted tickets available Monday to Friday prior to their Brunch to enjoy the best Brunch in town for $42.

MYANMORE magazine #13 November 2017

Dining

Seafood Night @ Spice Brasserie Restaurant

Every Wednesday, Friday & Saturday Freshness and quality of the seafood will have you a delightful evening dinner that you will never forget. Perfect blend of bbq fish, seafood on ice, seafood carpaccio, fish carving and many more. USD 39 nett per person including free flow of local draught beer, soft drinks Featuring: Seafood on ice - King Crabs, Crabs, Lobsters, Shellfish, King Prawns, Pink Prawns and many more.

For more information or reservation please call +95 1 250 388 (Ext:8122, 8121) PARKROYAL - 33, Alan Pya Phaya Road, Dagon Township, Yangon

Ocean Treasure Night Every Friday & Saturday Night

Famed for their extensive range of fresh, delicately prepared seafood dishes, their Friday & Saturday night buffet also allows guests to sample the delights of a number of specially devised house favorites, hosted in their expansive modern venue on the sparkling banks of Inya Lake.

-USD 39++ / person(inclusive of free flow soft drinks, Myanmar Premium Draught Beer, and Wine) -USD 32++ / person (inclusive of free flow soft drinks)

- Steamed Whole Grouper with Soya Sauce, Spring Onions and Ginger USD 6.00 nett per 100 grams. RSVP: 01 544 500.

Chatrium Hotel Royal Lake Yangon – 40, Nat Mauk Road, Tamwe Township, Yangon

Travel

Round Trip Air Ticket Promotion Festival of Lights is a unique festival of Myanmar. MNA Offer the Thadingyut Festival Promotion for round trip for Yangon - Singapore with USD 230 all in fare and Yangon - Bangkok with USD 120 all in fare. Sales Period at 21 Sep 2017 to 25 Nov 2017, Travel Period at 21 Sep 2017 to 30 Nov 2017. Ph:01 378 603 Myanmar National Airlines - No 104, Kanna Road, Kyauktada Township,Yangon

Special Promotion of airfare for round trip Yangon - Guang Zhou round trip with USD 305 (14 days ticket), USD 355 (30 days ticket) and USD 390 (30days ticket). Travel Period from 1st Oct to 31 Dec 2017, Promotion Period til 31st Dec 2017. For more info contact to 01 96670022 Ext: 452, 453, 454 and 01 9670022 Ext: 801 to 805.

Myanmar Airways International - No. 147, Room no. 301, Pyay Road 8 1/2 mile, 5 ward, Mayangone Township, Yangon.

LOTTE HOTELS - 82, Pyay Road, Sinphyushin Yeik Tha, Ward 11, Hlaing Township, Yangon

Live Seafood Delights at Tiger Hill Chinese Restaurant Start from 1st October

Indulge in a world of the freshest flavors from the sea at Tiger Hill Chinese Restaurant as Chef Chichtichoch presents an array of succulent temptations for a memorable feast of live seafood.

- Lobster and Seasonal Fruit Salad with Mayonnaise dressing USD 8.00 nett per 100 grams - Pan-fried Mantis Prawns with Chili and Garlic USD 8.00 net per 100 grams - Steamed Clams with Garlic USD 15.00 nett (5 pcs), USD 30.00 nett (10 pcs) MYANMORE magazine #13 November 2017

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Business Listing

Real Estate

Services

Pun Hlaing Leasing Department

Hintha Business Centres

Pun Hlaing Estate Avenue, Hlaing Tharyar Township 01 3687 777, 3684 246 punhlaingleasing@yomastrategic.com http://www.punhlaingestate.com

221, Sule Square, 10th Floor, Sule Pagoda Road, Pabedan Township 01 441 3410, 01 925 5124 www.hinthabusinesscentres.com

Star City Leasing Department

Mercure Hotels Yangon Kaba Aye

Building A1, Star City, Kyaik Khauk Pagoda Road, Thanlyin Township leasing@yomastrategic.com http://www.starcityyangon.com

17, Kaba Aye Pagoda Road, Yankin Township 951 650933 Ext:154, Fax: 951 650960 resvn@micasayangon.com www.accorhotels.com

Wellbeing

Oasis Spa at Pun Hlaing Estate Pun Hlaing Estate, Pun Hlaing Estate Avenue, Hlaing Tharyar Township 01 3687 660, 368 7662, 3684026 (ext. 1514) countryclub@spa-mm.com

Europcar Myanmar No.74, Lann Thit Road, Nant Thar Gone Ward, Insein Township 01-646 330, 09 964 722 884 www.europcar-myanmar.com

YPF Your Property Finder 459/A, Room703, New University Avenue Road, Bahan Township 01 8605255-56, 09 402617094 www.ypf.com.mm www.facebook.com/yourpropertyfinder