Myanmore Magazine - No.23/September 2018 by MYANMORE

No. 23 /September 2018 It’s free!

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BUSINESS HACK

MEET THE YOUNG ENTREPRENEURS BLAZING TRAILS IN MYANMAR’S INDUSTRIES

No.23 / September 2018

magazine Managing Director Andreas Sigurdsson Managing Editor Lorcan Lovett Cover Julian Ray Photography Angel Ko Ko Thet Oo Maung Picture Man Staff Writer Min Ye Kyaw Intern Grace Tun Jessica Liang Contributors Loren Lee Chiesi Susan Bailey Lou De Bruycker

26 Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s On 8 Cinema 10 The Tea Shop 12

Illustration Ben Hopkins

My Place 29 New openings 30 Rangoon Rhythm 32 Tech Talk 34

Green Column / Mixologist Column 35 Best Spots For Wine Drinking 36 Myanmore card deals 40

Cover Bold Business 14 Photography Our Old Doors 18

Sales & Advertising sales@myanmore.com 0977 900 3701 / 3702

Q&A Mon Halsey 24

Eat & Drink Chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Column/Ethnic recipe 28

Publisher MYANMORE Magazine Pyit Thiri Thaw Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited Permit No. 01588 Printer For All Printing House

Features A Cut Above 20 Best Rooftop Bars in Mandalay 22 More Than Just Bread 38

Travel Tourism for a Better Myanmar 26

Art & Production Kyaw Kyaw Tun Hein Htet Ryan Tan

About Myanmore Myanmore is a registered brand under Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited providing digital and print publishing as well as creative services. Myanmore is managing the leading online city guide www.myanmore.com and printed publications Weekly Guide, EnjoyIt, KnowIt. We also work closely with the team of DRIVE, the first and only premium car magazine in Myanmar. Recently, we have launched application Sarmal (for finding restaurant & bars in Myanmar). The mission is to provide great content and experiences for residents in Myanmar.

Disclaimer No part of this publication can be reproduced or transmitted in any form without prior written permission from Myanmore. All details are deemed correct at the time of print. The editor, employees and contributors cannot be held responsible for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions that may occur. www.myanmore.com www.facebook.com/myanmore www.issuu.com/myanmore Follow us on Instagram and Viber.

What's on

EXPLORE OVER 2000+ RESTAURANTS, CAFES AND BARS

members: US$95 USD / 130,000 kyats.

Educational

British Chamber of Commerce Myanmar Office - Junction City Tower, Pabedan Township, Yangon | 8:30 am - 4:00 pm

We Are Connected (EDM Festival) 15th September

Legal & Compliance training 15th & 22nd September A Myanmar-France two-day collaboration that explains legal obligations on the establishment of a new business and other information on the Employment Law, personal income, payroll, tax, accounting, and more. To join contact 01 523 700.

Electro dance music party with Alan Walker, Cash Cash, Sander Van Doom and other DJs. Tickets cost between 25,000-70,000 kyats. Contact 09 9600 90078. Thuwunnabhumi Event Park - Thanthumar Road, Between Shwe Ingyin Housing & Chanthar Gon, ThinganGyun Township, Yangon | 4:00 pm - 12:00 am

CCI France Myanmar - Parkside One Building, No.271-273, Bagayar St, Sanchaung Township, Yangon | 9:00 am - 4:00 pm

Friday Night Wine Down Vo.9 at Sky Bistro

Bollywood Night & Neon Lights

21st September

22nd September

It’s that time of the month again. TGIF “WINE DOWN” night at Sky Bistro. Enjoy FREE FLOW delicious wine, cheese, cold cuts, chemical-free veggies & fruits and more, with the beautiful night view of Yangon City from the 20th floor of Sakura Tower. For Tickets please contact to 01 255277 (Sky Bistro restaurant).

A little bit of fun to lighten up those dreary raining nights. Put a spring in your step and a neon on your bum and come join us @ The Corriander Leaf Ahlone. For more details contact to 09969684512.

Find restaurants nearby, by type or check what other people recommend -------

The Corriander Leaf Yangon - Building No 12, Yangon International Hotel Compound, Dagon Township, Yangon | From 8:00 pm

Check out the Collections, a specially curated list for various occasions

Invasion (EDM Festival)

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15th September

Music for Myanmar 2018 at Chatrium 14th September “A Starry Night” is a sparkling evening of music, entertainment and fine dining to raise funds for disadvantaged deaf and orphaned children. For the fourth consecutive year they are putting their hearts into this musical evening which will star two exciting Irish concert artists, the trumpeter Niall O’Sullivan and the singer Shóna Henneberry and special Myanmar guest stars Chit Kaung and Eaint Chit. For more information contact 01544500. Chatrium Royal Lake Hotel - No.40, Nat Maut Rd, Tamwe Township, Yangon | From 6:30 pm

I N M FOOD YA N A M A PP R

Nightlife

Thiripyitsaya Sky Bistro - Hitachi Tower(Sakura Tower) 21st floor, Corner of Bogyoke Road and Sule Pagoda Rd, Kyauktada Township, Yangon | 6:00 pm - 9:00 pm

Art & Stage

NO.

Electro dance music will invade the ONE entertainment Park with a line up of Rn-D, Skellism, Wasted Penguinz, Warface, Salvatore GanaccI, Mashd N Kutcher and local DJs. Tickets cost between 25,000-70,000 kyats and are available on the door or at a list of bars including Harry’s Bar, Brave Bar, and AREA 51.

Book a table or share your experience with a review and have chance to win prizes and discounts.

The One Entertainment - Paw San Mhyay Street, ThinganGyun Township, Yangon | 4:00 pm - 12:00 am

Business

BritCham Operational Excellence: Essential Skills for Managers 25th September This workshop focuses on the soft skills side of management working with people, getting the most from the people on your team and leading them in the most effective way. Members: US$65 USD / 90,000kyats, non-

www.sarmal.com.mm MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

Cinema Cinemas

Now Showing Mile 22 Action, Adventure, Crime CIA operative James Silva leads a small but lethal paramilitary team on an urgent and dangerous mission. They must transport a foreign intelligence asset from an American embassy in Southeast Asia to an airfield for extraction—a distance of 22 miles. Silva and the soldiers soon find themselves in a race against time as the city’s military, police and street gangs close in to reclaim the asset. Stars: Mark Wahlberg, Lauren Cohan, Iko Uwais & more. Satyamev Jayate Action, Crime, Thriller There are about 200,000 policemen in Mumbai, tasked with the safety of this enormous city, and a majority of them don’t necessarily have the “cleanest” of reputations. When four such police inspectors are burnt alive in a series of merciless killings, the

entire police force is rocked with terror. The media is looking for answers. The public is on the fence over these killings. These crimes reflect upon Vir, a bold, calculating, and unapologetic vigilante.

adopted teenage brother are forced to go on the run with a weapon of mysterious origin as their only protection.

Casts: John Abraham, Manoj Bajpayee, Aisha Sharma & more.

The Nun Horror, Mystery, Thriller

Stars: Carrie Coon, James Franco, Zoë Kravitz & more.

When a young nun at a cloistered abbey in Romania takes her own life,

Coming Soon A.X.L Adventure, Sci-Fi A.X.L. is a top-secret, robotic dog that has advanced artificial intelligence created by the military. After an experiment gone wrong, A.X.L. is discovered hiding in the desert by Alex, a kindhearted outsider who finds a way to connect with the robot. The two soon develop a special friendship based on trust, loyalty and compassion. Helping Miles gain confidence, A.X.L. goes to any length to protect his new companion, including facing off against the scientists who want their creation back.

Stars: Becky G, Alex Neustaedter, Patricia De Leon, Thomas Jane, Dominic Rains & more. KIN Action, Sci-Fi Chased by a vengeful criminal, the feds and a gang of otherworldly soldiers, a recently released ex-con and his MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

a priest with a haunted past and a novitiate on the threshold of her final vows are sent by the Vatican to investigate. Together, they uncover the order’s unholy secret. Risking not only their lives but their faith and their very souls, they confront a malevolent force in the form of a demonic nun. Stars: Bonnie Aarons, Taissa Farmiga, Jonny Coyne & more. The Predator Action, Adventure, Horror From the outer reaches of space to the smalltown streets of suburbia, the hunt comes home. The universe’s most lethal hunters are stronger, smarter and deadlier than ever before, having genetically upgraded themselves with DNA MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

from other species. When a boy accidentally triggers their return to Earth, only a ragtag crew of ex-soldiers and a disgruntled science teacher can prevent the end of the human race. Stars: Yvonne Strahovski, Olivia Munn, Jacob Tremblay & more. Smallfoot Animation, Adventure, Comedy A Yeti named Migo stirs up his community when he discovers something that he didn’t know existed—a human. Stars: Zendaya, Channing Tatum, James Corden & more.

Cinemas in Yangon Mingalar Sanpya Cineplex 09 260 887 035 — 36, 01 230 3 165 Mingalar Cineplex (Gamone Pwint) 09 779 054 671 — 73 Mingalar Cinema 2(Dagon Centre (II) 09 732 54 091 — 92 Nay Pyi Daw 01 251 277, 01 251 288 Shae Saung Cinema 01 252 113, 01 388 034 Thamada Cinema 01 246 962, 01 246 963 Thwin 01 372 594, 01 388 033 Mingalar 01 243057

Tea Shop

THE TEA SHOP Illustration by Ben Hopkins MYANMORE Travel Awards For the past five years MYANMORE has promoted the best of travel in Myanmar. From the most thrilling experiences to the most original and lavish hotels, our travel features have taken readers to destinations known and unknown. Now we will officially reward and celebrate excellence across all areas of the tourism industry with the MYANMORE Travel Awards. Read October’s special travel edition and visit myanmore.com for more.

No More Notifications Facebook, or “Myanmar’s internet,” made an unprecedented move on August 27 when it removed several accounts of Myanmar’s top military officials. The social media giant banned Myanmar Army chief Min Aung Hlaing, 17 other accounts of top generals and 52 pages followed by almost 12 million people to prevent the spread of “hate and misinformation” after reviewing the content. Facebook also said it removed dozens of accounts for engaging in a campaign that “used seemingly independent news and opinion pages to covertly push the messages of the Myanmar military,”

reported Reuters. Facebook’s action came hours after a damning United Nations report on the military’s campaign in Rakhine State. The report said the commander-inchief of Myanmar’s armed forces and five generals should be prosecuted for orchestrating the gravest crimes under international law.

Ghost Ship It could have been the opening to a legendary sea tale: a huge rusty container vessel floating aimlessly toward the Myanmar coast…and completely empty. But the mystery of the “ghost ship”

was quickly solved. Once the ship ran aground near Yangon, Myanmar navy personnel boarded it and suspected it had been towed by another ship after two cables were found at its head. They later found a tugboat, called Independence, about 80 kilometers (50 miles) off Myanmar’s coast, according to the BBC. After questioning the 13 Indonesian crew members on board, they learned that the tugboat had been towing the vessel since 13 August, and intended to take it to a factory in Bangladesh that would dismantle and salvage the ship. However, the crew abandoned the ship after being caught up in bad weather.

Yadanagu Festival The goddess of Myanmar’s volcanic wonder Mount Popa will be honoured at an annual celebration south of Mandalay in Yadanagu village from Monday, September 3, to Sunday, September 9. The Yadanagu nat (spirit) festival recognizes the mother of two brothers serving an 11th century Bagan king who were executed. They also became nats and are celebrated in the raucous Taung Pyone Spirit Festival which took place in August. Boats are rowed to the festival sight and visitors can expect to see spirit mediums dancing to traditional music

MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

while accepting offerings of alcohol and cigarettes on behalf of the nat.

perhaps elevating their films to the international stage. Tickets cost 500 kyats per screening.

Showtime for Wathann Local talent will showcase short films and documentaries at the eighth Wathann Film Festival from Wednesday, September 5, to Monday, September 10. More than 70 films including some from international filmmakers will be screened at Waziya Cinema and Goethe Institute. Awards include best film, best documentary, and new vision, though complementing that is an opportunity for budding directors to make an impact here,

Night of Violence

Social media users have been comparing Mandalay to Batman’s foreboding Gotham City after a series of robberies. News outlet The Irrawaddy reported that one student was killed and another man injured in separate incidents in Mandalay Region on the same night in August. Ko Nay Min Htet, 19, was riding pillion on his friend’s motorbike when three

MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

men knocked him off and attacked them. Ko Nay Min Htet was stabbed to death and his friend was injured. Locals from Kyaukse Township told The Irrawaddy such murders are rare in the town and expressed worry about their children going out at night. In a separate incident on the same night, in Mandalay’s Maha Aung Myay Township, a man’s throat was slashed and his motorcycle robbed.

EDM Mania

We Are Connected promises to “automatically connect” ravers with the thumping beats of Alan Walker, Cash Cash, Sandar Van Doom, and other unfamiliar names. Tickets cost between 25,000-70,000 kyats and the event takes place at Yangon’s Thuwunna Bhumi Event Park from 4pm-12am. The other party— Invasion—takes place at the same time but in The ONE Entertainment Park. Revelers are promised international DJs on a “massive Combat Spaceship Stage.”

EDM [electronic dance music] fans are in for a treat this month with the launch of two one-night festivals— both on September 15.

Feature

BOLD BUSINESS

A new generation of entrepreneurs are boosting Myanmar’s stunted economy.

mid a series of state reforms seven years ago, the future of Myanmar’s economy had a gilded shine—some even posited it as “Asia’s next tiger.”

more foreign investment. The imminent Myanmar Sustainable Development Plan has a 12-point economic plan too, touted as a panacea for the economic woes.

Though the glint has somewhat dulled, the economy is performing well, with GDP growth of 6.4 percent in 2017 and 6.8 percent growth expected in 2018. But business leaders feel this progress is not reflected on the ground, where industries are besieged by a string of problems.

But arguably the most efficacious force for business is the quickthinking entrepreneur who turns an external problem into an opportunity. In Myanmar, where a 2014 census recorded more than half the population as under 30, these entrepreneurs are young and bold. We interviewed award-winning sisters from the tech industry, a prominent restaurateur, and an innovative tour operator on how they are thriving in a tough environment.

Tourist numbers are dropping because of the crisis in Rakhine State, investors are worried about the reputational risk of operating in Myanmar, and impatience is festering over the sluggish pace of reforms. In addition, the depreciation of the kyat to US dollar and government inadequacies of delivering basic services to the public are fuel for what the International Crisis Group’s latest report described as “strong perceptions of economic malaise in the country.” Buoyant measures are taking place, such as a new companies law that allows foreigners to invest up to 35 percent in local companies, a development expected to attract

Connecting the Dots Honey Mya Win, 26, was a telecom engineer for Huawei when her sister told her about a business solution hackathon. Shwe Yee Mya Win, 24, has always been the techier of the two, while Honey has the vision. After 48 hours of working and sleeping at their desk, the sisters won the competition and were elevated into Yangon’s tech hub Phandeeyar, where from September 2016-March 2017 they developed freelancing platform Chate Sat, or “connect” in Burmese.

“We try to find a problem worth solving and then we build websites and apps for that.” Chate Sat co-founder Honey Mya Win

Shwe Yee Mya Win (left) and Honey Mya Win (right) developed their start-up Chate Sat at tech hub Phandeeyar. (Julian Ray) MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

Feature

“We try to find a problem worth solving and then we build websites and apps for that,” says Honey in their downtown headquarters, a small complex of beige rooms and whiteboards displaying freshly scribbled strategies. “We don’t have any business background and in those six months we learned a lot from our mentors about management, finance, everything about business.” The pair had already established website and app builder Technoholic but a struggle to find freelancers along with the unfair percentages freelancers get from projects sparked the idea for Chate Sat, which connects developers, translators, and freelancers from other industries straight to the employer. Within a year of leaving Phandeeyar the sisters were listed in Forbes 30 Under 30 Asia and had secured sixfigure funding from Singapore-based Vulpes Investment Management Ltd, Theta Capital, and a Myanmarbased angel investor. With fellow Phandeeyar start-ups as its first clients, the 10-strong team of Chate Sat has grown to have 14,000 freelancers and 2,400 clients, about 80 percent of whom are local and the rest from Thailand, Singapore, Malaysia and the US. Clients still include start-ups, but also range to corporations such as Ooredoo, Ogilvy, and Grab.

fledgling talent with clients. Its process of collecting freelancer payments from clients and delivering them once the job is done is also reassuring to all parties. One of the platform’s main goals is to encourage Myanmar Internet users that there’s a digital world outside of Facebook—and Chate Sat is in it. By the end of this year it will hopefully expand its freelancer base to Naypyitaw, Taunggyi, and Mandalay and land more freelancer projects from neighboring countries. “We have lots of plans to grow,” says Honey. “With this economy, our plans are a little delayed, but we will get there.” Reaching New Markets When the humanitarian crisis in Rakhine State greatly escalated in August, 2017, tourism entrepreneur Min Thant Htut, 28, knew it would damage his industry. “People started saying ‘don’t travel to Myanmar, it’s not ethical,’” he says. His Yangon-based tour operator Pro Niti

has since endured a 20-percent drop in customers, mostly from his main markets of the US and UK. His response was to shift his market, he explains. “Most amazingly, now we are getting customers from Ukraine and Lithuania.” To tap into the Eastern European market, Min studied research from the Dutch government’s Centre for the Promotion of Imports (CPI) and then used digital advertising and search engine optimization (SEO) to ensure his company would appear in the web search results of prospective visitors from that region. This year he will introduce travel articles on his website and expand his firm’s itinerary to include Myanmar’s coastal south as well as trekking destinations such as Pindaya, Kengtung, and Chin State. Though he is back to working 12-hour days, seven days per week, “like when I started the company,” his diligence should keep his 10-strong team busy.

“When you say you’re an ‘entrepreneur’ it means you are the guy who has to fix the problem,” he says. “You have to struggle and hustle everyday.” Born in Bago Region, Min’s first taste of the tourism and hospitality industry was as a bellboy for a midrange Yangon hotel. He enrolled on a tourism management diploma and then trained as a tour guide while answering foreigners’ Myanmar questions on travel forums and writing an English-language blog. “Our country was opening up and people were ready to come in,” he says, and after making a name for himself as a guide, he launched Pro Niti in 2013. “Pro” is short for professionalism and “Niti” is Pali for ethical, he explained: Pro Niti focuses on “price, peace of mind travel, and experience.” Min also co-founded tourism and management institute Trust through which he teaches his hard-earned knowledge.

Htet Myet Oo returned to Myanmar in 2012 after graduating from university in the UK. (Myanmore)

Although the local start-up scene is thriving, this year has seen a drop in investment, explained Honey, adding that most businesses are feeling the squeeze. “We are too,” she says. “We offer these freelancers so that businesses can grow, but right now people aren’t thinking about growth.”

Sitting in the high-end teashop’s upstairs Toddy Bar, Htet mulls over his company’s current position: employee numbers have doubled every year for the past four years; he estimates them to swell from 200 to 300 by August, 2019, with the team also running five Asian fast-food Mr Wok outlets Mr Wok and two Myanmar food Buthee outlets. Plans to open a food court and expand to international school canteens are in full swing.

Adapting to Change

Four years ago Htet would have welcomed the progress, but one year ago he would have expected to be in an even stronger spot. “I wish we had expanded a little quicker, but you are not always in control of that.”

Despite being only 28, Htet Myet Oo is a veteran of Yangon’s food and beverage industry. The restaurateur, who along with his partner Isabella Sway Tin won the MYANMORE Awards KBZ Entrepreneur of the Year 2018, co-founded Rangoon Tea House (RTH) in late 2014 and has since established a fiefdom of eateries around Yangon.

Businesses are currently focused on survival, she said, which is also an opportunity: firms with dwindling budgets for digital marketing will save money using freelancers rather than big agencies. “It’s one way of solving these problems,” adds Honey. Chate Sat helps its clients according to their budget, while on the platform some improvements have been implemented: online tests show clients the level of a freelancer’s skills and the start-up is tapping into the pool of universities to connect

Aside from the Rakhine crisis, other problems unsurprising for a country that had been isolated for decades have stymied his business, including poor infrastructure, expensive domestic flights, and overpriced and underwhelming accommodation. But Min’s optimism still shines through and he is “still positive on tourism,” adding, “There are lots of opportunities and things to do in Myanmar.”

“We have gone past a point of worrying about paying salaries and things like that,” he says. “Our next worry is building a sustainable business.”

Min Thant Htut is expanding his tourism business to new markets. (Supplied)

MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

Focusing on what you can control makes the most sense to Htet, who said blaming the economy is “so easy” for people. “You won’t find anyone working for us who thinks the economy has anything to do with how well or badly we are doing,” he says. But Htet admits “a little dip in the way people are perceiving their money and value” is complicating the path for new brands. “Even though it hasn’t

MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

“You won’t find anyone working for us who thinks the economy has anything to do with how well or badly we are doing.” Rangoon Tea House co-founder Htet Myet Oo affected my businesses completely, I can still see a difference in the way consumers spend money.” People believe a flaccid economy means redundancies, high inflation, and no disposable income, he said, but really “a bad economy is one where people do not know what to do with their money”—how much to spend or whether to just save.

Sentiments were different when a freshly graduated Htet returned from the UK to Myanmar in December, 2012, a time of stirring possibilities for the country. That optimism reached euphoria on the National League for Democracy’s landslide electoral victory in 2015, but “euphoria doesn’t last very long,” says Htet. “Like anything in life, after the peak you have a little down.” Business owners then faced “an instant reality check” when the economy failed to match the jubilant mood. RTH Group continued to track customer trends, adapting its menus and introducing new products—the latest is fried chicken at Mr Wok. It is testing new recipes on the youngest portion of their market with Buthee at the International School of Myanmar canteen and will bring noodle soup, Shan food, Mr Wok and Buthee to a North Dagon food court this month, reaching a wider Yangon audience. “We want to take calculated risks and grow a business, even in the toughest of times,” adds Htet.

Photography

t was about a decade ago, in the Yangon drizzle, that Julian Ray came upon a beautiful blue door. He stabilized his camera on a pile of sandbags, but the shot wasn’t quite right. A few days later he returned for another attempt, only to find the door had been torn down. A wake up call, if the photographer needed one: this morsel of Myanmar’s heritage— the weathered gateway—must be recorded. Eight hundred doors later and Julian is showcasing his project titled Our Old Doors at Trish Gallery. About 30 photographs have been selected, and many others will be included in a planned coffee-table book. Sundrenched teak panels in Bagan, tired hinges in Chinatown, and even the two-century old entrance to storied Mingun Pagoda get a look in. The composition, colors and textures of each door evokes a portal to another time, a fantasy bolstered by the juxtaposition of modern developments mushrooming around Myanmar’s cities. “We have a lot of modernization coming in Myanmar and in a simple way [the photographs] represent the rich art, culture, and wealth of the country,” said Julian. The intersection of time and weather has

Photographer Julian Ray has been based in Myanmarfor seven years. (Supplied)

created a “capricious nature that very unintentionally has turned into a still life,” said Julian of the doors, adding,

As stunning as they are, the doors can easily be lumped in with prosaic sights on a stroll and therefore go unappreciated. Julian dodges this pitfall with what he describes as “zen street walking,” an ultra conscious way to track not only the movements of the body but the sights that it passes. By focusing on an object as commonplace as a door, he encourages people to become more mindful of Myanmar’s hidden gems.

OUR OLD DOORS A new exhibition shines light on a ubiquitous but overlooked presence in Myanmar.

Trish Gallery owner Patricia Pun hosts the exhibition until October 31. (Julian Ray)

MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

“A lot are just phenomenal, just works of art unto themselves.”

MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

Yangon is strewn with everyday antiques that on closer inspection reveal glimpses of its industrious past. Once gone, these will be hard to replace, like throwing away old torn jeans for some shop-fresh ‘distressed

denim.’ A small example is a peeled turquoise door oozing with character that on Julian’s second visit had been given a neat purple finish. In this sense, the photographer, who has lived in Myanmar full-time since 2011, sees his project partly as a reflection on the race to modernize. His doors have stories and are “like children,” he explains. “I value each for who they are and their quirks.” Visitors to the exhibition can enjoy and buy the photographs during its run. Our Old Doors shows in Trish Gallery on Min Kyaung Street in Dagon Township from September 29-October 31. The gallery opens from TuesdaySunday, 9am-5pm. Visit trishgallery.com.

Feature

A CUT ABOVE Loren Lee Chiesi visits manly grooming mecca Burman Barbershop.

“Every man deserves to feel confident about the way he looks.” Burman Barbershop co-owner Jeremy Kyaw

here’s a new competitor in Yangon gaining a lot of attention in the self-care market. While facials, hair washes, manicures, and massages have dominated the personal wellness industry, the founders of the Burman Barbershop noticed there was a critical demographic absent in the market: gentlemen. Located in Yangon downtown on Bogalayzay Street, the new barbershop opened in June and offers men what women have had the joy of experiencing for a long time: an indulgent grooming experience, delivered in a setting that harks back to a Mad Men era of classic style and masculine sophistication. Jeremy Kyaw, one of four owners of the establishment, was inspired to bring the barbershop experience he had living in Singapore and the USA back to his hometown. “In Yangon, there is no place like a classic barbershop where men can come get a good shave, a fresh haircut, and leave feeling confident, enabled, and stylish,” says Kyaw. The ambience of Burman Barbershop is understated and up-market, like walking into a Ralph Lauren advertisement. With its leather sofas, rattan furniture, sleek gold, black, and white décor, and Sinatra crooning from the sound system, the shop resembles an upscale heritage hotel, complete with a wooden bar where customers are offered complimentary glasses of liquor with their styling service. None of these intricate details is by accident. “We wanted to create an environment where men could go to relax, be themselves, have discussions about politics, their lives, their interests, and business,” explains

Kyaw. “Getting a shave or a haircut is only one part of the barbershop experience.” Burman Barbershop employs a team of crackerjack barbers, many with over seven years of training in the grooming business. Service prices range from 11,000-50,000 kyats. Their signature service is the Burman Deluxe. For this two-hour package experience, the client first receives a hot towel facial to clean the style and open the pores, followed by a head and neck rub to release tension in the upper body. Afterward, the barber does a hot shave or beard trimming and then a custom haircut to suit each client’s unique face shape and features. Kyaw says that fades are the most requested haircut at the moment, but notes, “Our barbers give the customers a style that is timeless and flattering. We are not so interested in following trends. We want our customers to be able to look at picture of themselves in five years and think, ‘Yes, I looked good.’”

The barbershop operates in a colonial-era building in downtown Yangon. (Supplied)

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Burman Barbers plan to offer more free haircuts to underserved street laborers. (Angel Ko Ko)

From Kyaw’s vantage point, Burman Barbershop is much more than just a place to get a haircut; he sees it as a kind of community center where fathers and sons create traditions of grooming together, strangers become friends over conversations between barber stools, groomsman get wedding ready, and gentleman enjoy being pampered and taking care of themselves. “Our business is not about just giving our customers a good hair day,” says Kyaw. “We know that a good haircut can change how

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to see yourself and how other people perceive you. When you know you look good, it changes how you show up in the world.” Kyaw and his partners are very committed to the belief that a good haircut can transform a person’s confidence and how they are viewed in society, so much so that they’ve decided to take their shears to the streets. On August 6, a small crew of Burman Barbers offered free haircuts to underserved street laborers. The

results were swift and sure, as the men beamed with pride after their seeing their smoothly shorn faces and stylish cuts reflected in a mirror. “Every man deserves to feel confident about the way he looks,” adds Kyaw. “You can’t put a price on that feeling.” Check out video of Burman Barbers giving free haircuts to underserved street laborers at Myanmore.com.

Feature

Apex Bar Mandalay’s highest rooftop bar is perched on the 12th floor of the Apex Hotel and is currently THE place to go for sunset selfies… and drinks. The focus is on beer and whiskey, but they also offer cocktails and a huge menu of tasty Asian and Western dishes. Apex is split over two levels, comfortable tables for dining and some bar-style seating along the perimeter for those who wish to enjoy the view. The lower level has a live band every night and a small covered area to retreat to in case of the odd rain storm. Casual, breezy and open until 1am, Apex is a great place to start the evening or to wrap up a night out on the town. 35th Street between 58th x 59th streets; Open: 5pm-1am; Large bottle of Myanmar Beer (660ml): 3,000 kyats Sky Bar at Brolly One of Mandalay’s mainstay cafes— Brolly—closed in 2017 much to the chagrin of its regular patrons. But the owners have brought the crowds

back, building a hotel and rooftop bar in the original location. Sky Bar is smaller than its competitors but offers great views of Mandalay Hill, the moat and the Shan mountains. Popular with the 20-something crowd, the bar features lots of colorful shots (3,000 kyats), sweet cocktails by the bottle (25,000 kyats) and Shisha (20,000 kyats). The well-priced food menu runs the gamut from beef steak to fried rice. Another plus for Sky Bar is that its indoor air-conditioned area has huge glass windows, meaning you can enjoy the view even if it is raining.

on the western edge of the bar for best viewing. The beers are cold and the bartenders mix up a good range of cocktails, although the rum sours stand out. Perhaps due to its location on the edge of town, the bar is rarely busy and normally hotel guests are the only customers. But it is worth your time to venture to Ayarwaddy River View Hotel for a sunset drink—the views can’t be beat!

22nd Street Between 65th x 66th streets, Open 11am-11pm; Large draft Tiger beer 3,000 kyats

Special Mentions

Sky Bar at Ayarwaddy River View Hotel

The spartan concrete floor and banquet-style tables get a zero for atmosphere but the bar wins big points for its views. Thanks to its location and elevation, you can enjoy a cocktail with the Shan hills as a backdrop to the east and Mandalay Hill to the west.

Strand Road between 22nd x 23rd streets; Large bottle of Myanmar Beer (660ml): 3,000 kyats

Ostello Bello Hostel The legendary Ostello Bello Hostel’s bar is, well, just that: a hostel bar. It just happens to be on the roof which means guests can enjoy a gentle breeze and nice views while competing in quiz night, singing karaoke, mingling with backpackers and eventually partaking in the inevitable drunken antics that happen at a hostel. 28th street The Hangover Sky Bar

Ayarwaddy River View Hotel is located on Strand Road at the edge of the Ayeyarwady River and its 6th floor is home to Sky Bar, a large open-air dining and drinking venue. Although the decoration is stark, the breezy bar is ideal for watching sunset over the river. Get their early and grab a table

Eastern Palace Hotel

The 9th floor Hangover Sky Bar has view of both the Irrawaddy River and Mandalay Hill, making it a great place for photos. The prices are reasonable but, sadly, the loud club-like music detracts from what is otherwise a nice, breezy place to have a sundowner. Hotel Yi, Corner of 22nd and 86th streets

19th Street Between 57th x 58th streets

Welcome to Mandalay’s first and only Irish bar. (Ned Kelly)

BEST ROOFTOP BARS IN MANDALAY Like their swanky Yangon counterparts, Mandalay rooftop bars are attracting locals and foreigners from sunset until the late hours of the evening. But unlike the Yangon scene, the venues are laid back and, up to now, affordable, with drinks priced similar to other casual watering holes around town. Susan Bailey rounds up the best of them. Ned Kelly Situated on top of a funky 37-bed hotel, Ned Kelly is Mandalay’s first and only Irish bar. True to form, it has a solid selection of booze (yes, it has Guinness!), a meat-heavy menu and a convivial vibe with friendly staff. Thankfully they have forgone the usual Irish bar formula in terms of style! The open-air rooftop has a high sloping tent covering, making it airy and light compared to the dark cave-like pubs

from the Emerald Isle. Ned Kelly has two pool tables in its air-conditioned side room and a foosball table, all free of charge for guests. If you prefer watching sports to playing them, fear not—the pub shows all major events on its huge screen. 28th Street between 74th x 75th streets; Open: 4pm-12am; Pint of Tiger Draft: 3,000 kyats A view from Sky Bar at Brolly. (Facebook)

The music stage at Apex Bar. (Supplied) MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

Q&A

pieces of monk robes. I gave it to him after we were married, so it has a lot of sentimental value. Q What kind of challenges do you face in pursuing this career? When creating installation art, I need a workforce. I have to collect a lot of trash and materials such as tree branches to make my art pieces, and that’s difficult to do on my own. I had to collect 1,500 plastic bottles for my last exhibition while also choosing the right shapes and sizes, so I need help from others in that aspect. Have your family and surroundings always been supportive of your work? No. [Laughs] They always get mad whenever I bring a pile of trash into the house for my art. My home is probably cluttered with my artwork, especially before exhibitions. But they do appreciate what I do. As for when I was younger, I don’t think my family really noticed my interest in art, and probably didn’t think I’d have a career in it or become this successful. Q What kind of plans do you have for the nearby future?

The artist has plans for another exhibition after the rainy season. (Picture Man)

MON HALSEY

Transforming waste into art has been the niche of Mon Halsey, 39, for years. She has held five solo exhibitions featuring her artwork and also hosts a program on MITV about recycled arts and crafts. The artist and writer talked with Grace Tun about her approach to art and use of recycled materials. Q Tell me about your background. I didn’t have a background related to art. But ever since I was young, I liked creating things. I would cut paper and make toys at home. When I grew a bit older, I gave handmade objects as gifts to my friends. Another thing was that I wanted to decorate my own home, but paintings and sculptures were very expensive to buy, so I created things of my own to make my home beautiful. When my friends came over and saw the art, they suggested I hold an exhibition, and without realizing

it, I had entered the artistic field. So I didn’t have any kind of education in art, but it’s something I enjoy and I gradually made more time for it. Q Why did you start your career as an artist? Producing art is my hobby, and I wanted to pursue it as a career. Of course, everyone has hobbies, but if you choose to be serious about it and pursue it with determination, you can make a career out of it. Art is my passion, and I’m not going to give up

on it. But I’m not sure if I can describe it as a career because I don’t gain any profit from it. I do get back the money I invested into my exhibitions, so there’s no loss, but there’s no profit either. There are times though, when I get money for decorating events such as weddings. Even then, it’s only something I do for acquaintances rather than a business. Q Your art often encompasses recycled materials. Why do you do this? And what are your thoughts about the waste and pollution

situation in Myanmar? Recycling is such an important process, especially in a country like Myanmar which isn’t rich or developed yet. You might remember the fire at the garbage dump not too long ago; the burning plastic could be smelt throughout the city. That garbage dump contains everyone’s trash, including mine and yours. I researched about how I can recycle this trash rather than throw it away. Take plastic toys, for instance. One of my artworks features plastic toy

MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

soldiers, and gives a message about the effects of war. If lots of these had been thrown away, they would have made the land unfertile for more than a hundred years. But by using them this way, I can give a message to the audience and help the environment at the same time. I want people to know that the trash they throw away can be turned into beautiful pieces of art which doesn’t cause harm to the environment. You can even make handmade gifts for your friends using recycled materials. If you are willing to try, you can make beautiful things out of trash. Q How often do you produce art? I don’t have a fixed schedule for when to finish a piece of art. I create when I feel inspired so I don’t force myself to follow a schedule. When I have upcoming exhibitions, however, it’s a different matter. I work tirelessly day

and night, without even resting. But for now, I’m taking a break. And it’s the rainy season so I can’t do anything either; the paper mâché won’t dry and it’s difficult to go outside and collect trash. Q Can you describe a typical day of work in your studio? Well, let me describe a typical day before my exhibitions. Before each exhibition, I always keep a file containing my plan and layout for the show. I decide on the show’s theme, and brainstorm ideas for artwork related to that theme. Usually my theme is centered around recycling trash, so I decide what kind of items I need for that theme, and collect trash accordingly. During those times, I keep track of the things I need to get done for the exhibition. I also write descriptions on each piece of artwork, including information on how long

MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

it took to create the piece and how I created it. Q Where do you get your inspiration? I get inspiration when I go outside. I look around and think about what sorts of things I can make with the material around me. I also look at websites…there’s this artist I really admire from China. Her work isn’t centered on recycled materials but I get lots of ideas from her installation work. I look at these and try to make similar things with recycled materials. Could you describe and explain a favorite piece of your art? It’s difficult to say because I like almost all of my artwork [laughs], but if I had to choose, it’s a painting I made for my husband, Ron. It’s a form of mixed media art that I made using photocopied pictures of a Buddha statue which I enlarged, along with

I’m currently thinking of plans for another exhibition featuring recycled crafts, but I can’t start working on it until the rainy season is over. Q What’s one of the most important things you’ve learnt from your experience? I don’t think I have received that important of a moral or lesson from my experience so far. But I do have a message that I want to give to the public whenever I create artwork: to reduce, reuse and recycle, and know that that the trash you throw away can be turned into something more useful. What advice would you give to young people who want to become artists? Just pursue your hobby. If you have something you are crazy about, you should definitely hold on to it. If you genuinely have an interest in art, don’t give it up, and make time for it. If you do that, then there’s no reason why you shouldn’t succeed in art, or basically anything you want to be.

Travel

TOURISM FOR A BETTER MYANMAR

A fisherman casts out his net to the Irrawaddy River. (Living Irrawaddy Dolphin Project)

their mahouts (elephant caretakers). Green Hill Valley is home to eight elephants, along with 10 mahouts and more than 60 family members of the mahouts, who receive accommodation, food and education.

‘Responsible tourism’ is a term that is widely misused, especially in Southeast Asia. Thankfully Myanmar is home to a handful of great projects that truly fit the definition of responsible tourism. They are not only interesting for visitors but also provide direct benefit to the environment and community. These conservation centers are true labors of love, developed and run by passionate individuals who have invested the time and money to ensure long-term sustainability. Susan Bailey recommends some of the best responsible tourism projects in Myanmar. Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp Elephant camps have a bad reputation in the tourism world, with overworked elephants subjected to riding and circus-like tricks. Green Hill Valley is the antithesis of this. Founded by Tin Maw and Htun Wynn, the couple created the center to raise awareness about elephant welfare and poaching as well as promote environmental conservation. The full-day experience for visitors includes nature walks, planting a seedling in their reforestation project, making paper from elephant dung and, of course, plenty of time with the elephants and

Planning a visit: Green Hill Valley is located around 40 kilometers west of Kalaw. Advance bookings are required and the tour lasts a full day, including lunch. Prices start at US$90 per person. Email: ghv.elephant@gmail. com Minzontaung Wildlife Sanctuary Burmese Star Tortoises were, until recently, on the brink of extinction. The beautiful pattern on their shells has made them a prize for exotic pet collectors, fetching up to US$5,000 on the black market. But thanks to the team at Minzontaung Wildlife Sanctuary, the tortoise’s population is making a comeback. Since it’s founding in the mid-2000s, the center, in partnership with the Myanmar Government and World Conservation Society, has bred more than 10,000 star tortoises and released nearly 1,000 back into the wild. Last year, a visitor’s center was added with excellent information about the tortoises and the center along with an educational initiative for local villagers. Planning a visit: Minzontaung is a great stop between Bagan and Mandalay, located in Natogyi which is around half way between the two cities. They do not have guides on site so advance bookings are required. Allow 30 minutes to visit the main sanctuary and information center; an extra hour is suggested to track tortoises in the wild with a forest ranger. Packages including transport from Bagan to Mandalay can be made through Khiri Travel: travel. myanmar@khiri.com. Living Irrawaddy Dolphin Project Myanmar’s Irrawaddy dolphins have a special place in the hearts and

Mahouts with their elephants. (Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp) MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

minds of many locals. These gentle blunt nosed creatures famously join in ‘cooperative fishing,’ working alongside net-casting fishermen to increase their catch. Yet over the years their population has dwindled, dipping below 60 in the early 2000s. In 2005, the World Conservation Society and the Myanmar Department of Fishers established a protected area just north of Mandalay to reduce threats to the species and educate local residents. Today the population is believed to be 74-80 dolphins, a slow but impressive improvement. The Living Irrawaddy Dolphin project aims to keep this momentum going by incentivizing the villagers through ecotourism and ongoing education. The one- to three-day boat trips benefit seven riverside communities, home to more than 50 families. The locals provide transport, meals, help with accommodation and lead interactive experiences such as cooperative fishing, forest walks and more. Of course, they hope you will spot the elusive dolphins during the trip but if not, you will at least walk away with a greater appreciation of the Irrawaddy and its fragile ecosystem. Planning a visit: Tours run from late September through May. One-day visits are possible, but it is strongly recommended to join an overnight trip to get a deeper understanding of the dolphins and the fishing communities in the area. The evening is spent in a comfortable cabin or in a luxury tent on the river’s edge. Packages include guide, community excursions (which directly benefit the locals), boat hire and meals. Two-day trips cost US$165 per person with discounts available for locals and special groups. Contact info@burmadolphins.com for more information. More on sustainable tourism next month in Myanmore’s special travel edition. Visit Myanmore.com.

MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

Burmese Star Tortoises. (Minzontaung Wildlife Sanctuary)

Irrawaddy dolphins. (Living Irrawaddy Dolphin Project)

New Opening

Chef’s Column | Ethnic recipe c recipe

BRING OUT THE BARBECUE

MY PLACE Myanmar’s first LGBT cafe

Our Sunday Roasts conclude this month after a strong run, writes Chef Orng. Since my time in the UK I’ve been making roasts, and even though we’re a French restaurant, I had to squeeze them in here. Some British customers who’ve been living in Myanmar for years said it was the best roast they’d had in this country! Maybe it’s because of the care we take when roasting the meat, ensuring it’s ‘melt in the mouth’ quality. Or our sauces for each meat: juice from the beef, apricot and white wine for the chicken, a bit of apple with the pork.

ust like I saw in the UK, my team waits until after Sunday service before throwing everything what’s left in the kitchen together and jumping in for a big feast. They all love it. We all managed to raise 150,000 kyats for the Mon Education Trust because of the Sunday Roast we held on World Humanitarian Day. As the

dry season returns, we will look at replacing the roasts with barbecues. One slightly nagging thing about the past few months has been the number of ‘no shows’—when someone books a table but doesn’t show up. On Fridays and Saturdays this can be pretty bad, as we have to turn down

In a progressive trend, LGBT-themed bars and cafes have popped up around Southeast Asia over the years—and now Myanmar has its very own, writes Min Ye Kyaw.

Orng Kitchen Green Acres Residence Compound, 1 U Sein Maung Lane, Kone Myint Yeik That Street, (Off Highland Avenue) 7 miles, Mayangone Township 09771195020 12pm-3pm / 6pm–10pm (Closed Monday)

Chef Orng at work. (Leo Jackson)

customers because of limited space. Plus our food is fresh and prepared on the same day. Check out our homemade bread! But unfortunately this means bread gets thrown away and staff are told to head home if customers do not show up. Calling a few hours in advance to cancel is always appreciated!

TRADITIONAL FISH AND TOMATO CURRY

rom the herby fare of the north to the fresh and spicy seafood along the western coastline, Myanmar has an endless choice of tasty ethnic cuisine. To try your hand at cooking a classic, Padonmar Restaurant offers the following recipe. Ingredients (for two people) Yellow Tail Fish - 240 grams Onion - 160 grams Ginger - 0.8 grams Garlic - 1 piece Turmeric powder - half teaspoon Fish sauce - 2 teaspoons Dried chili powder - half tablespoon Tomato - 2 pieces Cooking oil - 2 tablespoons Salt - 1 teaspoon

Instructions - Remove the skin and knead the fish with salt to taste and turmeric powder and ginger. - Add thoroughly diced garlic, fish sauce and keep for 20 minutes. - Heat the oil and cook the ginger, garlic, diced and crushed onions, and fry for one and half minute until fragrant. Add some chili powder, crushed tomatoes and the fish sauce and cook for two minutes. - When the ingredients become gravy, add the kneaded fish, some water, cover and cook for 10 minutes.When the fish is cooked, add few slices of tomatoes, stir for five minutes and then it’s ready to eat.

y Place café in Yangon’s Tamwe Township has steadily become a hub for the city’s LGBT community since it opened about one month ago. LGBT people are often discriminated against in Myanmar and can even be targeted under state law, meaning the café is a safe and welcoming spot for many. Portraits of LGBT celebrities such as Sam Smith, Kristen Stewart, and Ellen DeGeneres are hung on the walls alongside quotes from industry leaders such as Tim Cook and Giorgio Armani.

Couple Khine Hnin Wai (left) and JD (right) run the cafe. (Thet Oo Maung)

The menu is Thai-orientated with salads, soups, noodles and barbecue for about 3,000 kyats per dish. Mandalay-based Coffee Win beverages are available, as are a range of cocktails and mocktails at the cage’s mini bar. Half of the café’s profits go to the Khine Hnin Wai Foundation, a charity that supports orphanages, flood victims, and other good causes. Actress Khine Hnin Wai established the charity in 2014 and runs the café alongside her partner Junior Dennis, or Mg JD, who is transsexual.

Add the onion gravy and oil soaked tea leaves into the pot along with the prepared chicken pieces and stir vigorously.

If the chicken pieces are cooked tenderly, the chicken with tea leaves curry is ready to serve.

MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

“There are no laws to protect LGBT people in Myanmar,” said Mg JD. “I am supporting our rainbow community in my own way to achieve what we want in Myanmar.” Customers at My Place can also buy accessories such as shirts, rainbow

flags and key chains, towels, and purses. The café has leaflets with helpful information and the staff are at hand to answer any questions. Plus, they also manage events such as birthday parties and make their own signature cakes.

MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

Address: 28 Dagon Thiri Street, Ground Floor, Tamwe Township Contact: 09250274324 , 09420124618 Hours: 9am to 9pm

New Openings

What’s new this month? Fire & Ice

ONYX Moss Garden Restaurant

• Bar A two-floored bar with the interior of a grungy club and the kitchen of a top Indian restaurant, Fire and Ice opened aims to cement its name as a lunch time and afterhours joint. In its dimly lit bowels are barrels for tables and spirit bottles for lampshades, while springing from the concrete floor are red-bricked pillars holding an elevated seating area. A team of talented chefs with decades of experience cooking in Southeast Asia work in an open kitchen near the back entrance.

• Western

Asia Seafood & Hotpot Restaurant • Asian fusion Asia Seafood is a jackpot for seafood lovers on a budget. They guarantee fresh seafood at the most reasonable price. Choose any three kinds of seafood dishes out of their 90 offerings for just 10,000 kyats. Address: 162 Baho Road, between Mau Pin Street and Nyaung Tone Street, Sanchaung Township Contact: 09 9614 3473 Opens 10am to 10pm

Address: G-61, Ground floor, Urban Asia Center, Mahabandoola Road, corner of 48th Street, Botahtaung Township Contact: 09 9773 222814 Opens 11am to 11pm

Known for its good wine and grilled entrées, ONYX Wine Tree Restaurant has opened a second branch called Moss Garden Restaurant on Pyay Road and it has the same convivial atmosphere as its sister restaurant. Address: 148 Pyay Road, corner of A1 Street and Pyay Road, 8 1/2 mile, Mayangone Township Contact: 09 2541 58167 Opens 11am to 11pm

La La Lah Grill & Pot • Chinese Whether you’re a big eater and like to pick on small portions, La La Lah Grill & Pot has the answer with its buffet and set menu. You can choose your own sauce and they also have a variety of grilled meats. Address: 25/9 Yadanar Road, Thingangyun Township Contact: 09 44190 6358 Opens 10am to 10pm

Old Skool • Bar Tucked away at the corner of Shin Saw Pu Road and Pyay Road, Old Skool has a vintage atmosphere with its wall paintings of Yangon circa 1980-1995. Offering beers and drinks, enjoy the Asian fusion dishes along with Western menu while catching some live music. Address: .86B Shin Saw Pu Road, Sanchaung Township Contact: 09 799 991619 Opens 3pm to 3am

Find out more at sarmal.com.m

MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

Music

JIMMY JACOBS Min Ye Kyaw sits down with a key performer in Myanmar’s next generation of hip hop artists.

oung Myanmar people call it “old school” now, but in the mid 1990s and 2000s the pioneering beats of Myo Kyawt Myaing and hip hop group Acid were fresh, exciting and rebellious. Though Acid’s first album (and Myanmar’s first ever hip hop album) Beginning is still much-loved 18 years after its release, the game has moved on and a new hip hop generation has arrived. One of its flag-bearers is Soe Aung Kyaw, 27, also known as Jimmy Jacobs. “Even though our country is running a little late in other areas, it is not running late in music,” he says. “We followed the international trends, but the audience was left behind, so there’s a little concern about what we do now and what the audience wants.” Soe Aung Kyaw comes from a creative family that includes a guitarist brother of band Romance House and a sister who is a director of photography. He began making hip hip in 2007 with his group BMC who released their debut album Moe Hte Lay Hte (In the Rain) in 2008. After a brief spell with rap collective Homie, he teamed up with his best friend, rapped Luffie, and their music producer to create Swag Music Entertainment (SME) in December, 2009. With over 200 shows in the rearview, Soe Aung Kyaw reflects that his original impetus for making music came from an inability to discuss his feelings with others. Hip hop, he says, was the best way to express them.

Jimmy Jacobs began making hip hop in 2007. (Soe Gyi Photography)

“Sometimes I write at home, but other times I’ll join friends and we’ll drive through the city, thinking of creative MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

lyrics. I’ve built a little studio at my home so I can work alone too.”

3) Eminem 4) Xo tour life by Lil Uzi Vert

A decade ago, when access to the internet was limited in Myanmar, he was handing out CDs and cassettes of his work at his shows. Money was tight but he kept going because he believed in his songs. To relax, he will listen to some of his own music, or his other favorite genre: lounge music. If he wasn’t a rapper, he would be a producer of that jazzy swing concoction, he jokes.

Dental student Kaung Pyae Sone, 24, from Sanchaung

Soe Aung Kyaw “accepts that EDM is taking over” the hip hop scene but emphasises that Myanmar hip hop lovers will never see the genre completely fade. “Every young adult likes hip hop,” he saus. “It’s freedom music and a good way to express your feelings.”

IT solutions worker Soe Pyae Phyo, 28, from Sanchaung 1) Acid 2) Eminem, Limp Bizkit, Fat Joe, Nelly, etc… I’ve listened to these rappers since I was a child. 3) Snoop Dogg 4) Apes**t by The Carters

His latest commercial album Hooligans or Iann Ta Yell in Burmese, released in September, 2017, and his other music can be listened to on his Facebook page as well as iTunes, JOOZ, and Soundcloud, under the name Jimmy Jacobs.

In the Charts Top Myanmar Albums

Beats on the Streets 1) Favorite hip hop artist or group in Myanmar 2) Why do you like hip hop? 3) Favorite international hip hop artist 4) Current favorite hip hop track

1) G Tone 2) I see hip hop as the best way of expressing yourself. That’s what I love most about it. And I respect the culture, fashion and how artists represent their communities and life. There are no other genres that hype me up and get me as motivated as hip hop. 3) Tyga 4) Taste by Tyga

Business student Sammy Lin, 22, from Thingangyun 1) Lil’ Z 2) Hip Hop expands my feelings in good ways. Usually the honest, harsh lyrics and the flow drive me insane up to the highest point.

MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

Top Worldwide Albums

Mar Irene Zin Mar Myint

Kamikaze Eminem

Amour The REASONABILISTS

Bloom Troye Sivan

Sate Nae Luu Wanted

Why Don’t We 8 Letters

Green Column / Mixologist Column

Apps

TECH TALK

THE FARM-TOFACE MOVEMENT

Our roundup of some of the best tech to enhance your life in Myanmar. WowBox

Telenor users can access lifestyle content and discounts as well as buy mobile date and internet packages in this app. Any in-app purchase builds points that can be exchanged for free data, while the app itself does not consume any data.

iOS 12 prepped for September launch The twelfth iOS will be released in September and promises to bring a variety of new features, including augmented virtual reality. A new app, Measure, allows you to use your iPhone’s camera to instantly measure the approximate dimensions of a real object. The News app will also feature AR content, allowing you to zoom in or view an object in 3D. Older devices like iPhone 6 Plus will also see significant performance improvements, with apps loading up to 40 percent faster, and sliding to take a photo becoming up to 70 percent faster.

My Ooredoo Virtual tours with Google

Similar to Telenor, Ooredoo Myanmar has its own app that you can use to keep track of your account balance, top up, buy data packages, and locate Ooredoo stores. In the app’s “Fun Zone” there’s a lot of tunes, videos and games that you can explore. iDiscover Yangon

Want to explore the ancient temples of Bagan without actually going there? Take a look at this app by Google and the nonprofit organization CyArk, which allows you to take virtual tours of over 1,200 international museums, as well as countless historical sites from all over the world. You can also find the same material on their website (artsandculture.google.com) so head over there now or download the app. It’s entirely free of charge!

hen Kokkoya Organic’s cofounder Sophia Aye asked me in May if Nourish wanted to be a vendor at the launch of their Yangon Farmer’s market, I dismissively replied “starting up in monsoon season is a terrible idea, no one is going to come.” As it turns out, no amount of torrential rain will deter Yangonites from an opportunity to get their hands on locally grown, chemicalfree produce. Last week, I was advised to arrive by 10am or expect to go home empty handed. Add in the flurry of pop-up dinners hosted at Kokkoya’s farm and other restaurants like Sharky’s, Union Bar and The Strand, it’s safe to say that the farm-to-table movement is gathering steam locally.

to-face is available in Yangon with The Skin District 9—a line of super fresh, small batch, 100 percent chemical free beauty products.

The basic principle of Farm to Table is simple: by sourcing from locally grown small-batch farmers, we get environmentally sustainable, fresher and higher-quality produce. This same principle is being applied to the world of beauty products in a new trend dubbed farm-toface: products made with fresh, natural, and source-traceable ingredients that are manufactured with sustainability and transparency in mind.

A personal favorite is the oatmeal mask which has anti-inflammatory properties and a deeply soothing effect. It also smells good enough to eat! Products range from face soap bars (no plastic!), fruit and sugar scrubs and masks, all reasonably priced from 6,000 to 30,000 kyats. Because shelf-life on the products are shorter to ensure freshness, The Skin District 9 mainly sells at markets around town, but starting this month you can sample their range of products with the new EDIBLE FACIAL at Bliss Beauty Bar.

Last month I covered the environmental damage and personal health risks of massproduced beauty products laden with chemicals and packaged in heaps of plastic. But there’s good news: farm-

You can now undo send in Gmail (Android)

For more information or to book the Edible Facial at Bliss Beauty Bar, visit yangonyogahouse.com/bliss-bar

Address: 36/38 Alan Pya Pagoda Road (Down a small spooky alley, opposite Park Royal Hotel) , Dagon Township Phone: 09 973 802714 Website: yangonyogahouse.com/ nourish Email: nourishyangon@gmail.com Opening hours: Mon-Thurs (10am-9pm), Fri-Sat (10am3pm), Sun (10am-7pm)

Download this app to reveal the hidden multicultural heritage of Yangon. iDiscover reveals heritage gems, popular spots, surprising sites and interesting background stories around the Secretariat, in the Indian quarter and in other interesting parts of town.

MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

For more about The Skin District 9, visit: facebook.com/theskindistrict9/

Jojo Yang is the co-founder of MYANMORE Green Award winner Nourish Café and Yangon Yoga House, where she is also the main yoga instructor.

This new feature on the Gmail app allows you to undo messages you’ve just sent. This feature was already included in the Inbox app, but it’s the first time for Gmail on both the app and the web version. This means no need to worry anymore whether you didn’t mean to send an email or want to correct your messages!

“I was inspired by Lush – I wanted to create products to deliver freshness to the skin using what is possible from our country. A lot of chemicals can cause irritation, while natural ingredients contain enzymes and antioxidants in pure form and are safest for the skin,” says founder May Moe Moe Aung, an aesthetic doctor trained in Thailand with, as you might expect, flawless skin. “We use locally produced ingredients like charcoal, coffee, spirulina and brown rice flour which have antiaging, whitening and hydrating effects and are completely safe.”

MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

TO YANGON’S BAR PEOPLE

n an effort to ensure that more voices in the bar community will be heard, it has been decided that this column should rotate, and I couldn’t agree more. I look forward to hearing what everyone else has to say, and to learning from their collected perspectives. I am so thankful to have been given the chance to have a voice in this amazing community, and I can’t wait to read what comes next! With thanks and admiration, there are a few things I wish to remind not only myself, but the entire bartending community of, before I go… - This city is full of strong players, who are growing wiser and stronger at their craft by the day. I hope for all of you working in the Yangon hospitality industry, that you are proud of what you do, and how you represent your city’s ability to welcome people, from both near and far, to feel at home and be entertained here. It is an important roll (though some are not yet understanding of that) so believe in your talents and the big things you are capable of, for yourselves and for your city. - Some of the big competitions are coming around, and more will come in the future. You can’t win them all… try anyway! You will learn by leaps and bounds through the process, and you will expand your network beyond Yangon. Remember that even the exposure of these competitions can quickly advance your career. With that being said, learn to take a loss with grace. Thank the brand that gave you the opportunity, thank the competitors that challenged you, thank the guests who cheered for you, congratulate the winner, and hold your head high into the next big comp. Never let a win go to your head, and never let a loss go to your heart. - Learn together. Regardless of where you work. Join together and share ideas. Inspire one another and support each other like a big family. You will go further together than you can on your own.

Thank you all for hearing me, and for allowing me to grow in this beautiful city. I invite you all to come around and share a drink with me at Union, and I’ll surely be around for a drink or two with you.

Cheers! MYANMORE Awards Winner and Spirits Ambassador of the Year 2018 Jen Queen is the bar manager for restaurant and bar group 57-BELOW, and mixes the cocktails at Union Bar and Grill.

#wine #bars #yangon Maximise Your Potential.

in Retail Banking today.

BEST SPOTS FOR WINE DRINKING

Yangon has a growing number of restaurants and bars serving international standard wine. Our team Min Ye Kyaw, Mathis Ayma, and Anabelle Ayma round up some of the best. The Warehouse

Le Cellier

This place has one of the largest selections of wine in the city. Offering over 800 tipples from 14 countries, The Warehouse staff have a passion for wine and are willing to give some honest advice.

Novotel Yangon Max’s signature restaurant and wine bar is located on the 14th floor of the hotel and boasts a stunning view of the Yangon skyline and Shwedagon Pagoda. You can simply walk through the wine cellar and choose form their extensive collection. Couple it with one of their filling appetizers, soups or salads.

Address: 150 Dhammazedi Road, Bahan Township Contact: 01 536 306 Hours: 9am to 9pm Ô’Thentic Crêperie & Wine Bar From the fresh, fruity and vivacious French rosé wine ideal for aperitif to the Italian wine bottled with aromas of pine and mint, Ô’Thentic has some great choices along with some delicious crêpes. Happy hour is from 4pm-8pm and includes a glass of wine, beer or a cocktail for US$2. Address: 45 Yaw Min Gyi Street, Dagon Township Contact: 09 44952 9557 Hours: 7am to 11pm Marco’s Cellar Nestled in a charming heritage building, newly established Marco’s Cellar is becoming a downtown go-to for wine lovers and connoisseurs. The owner from Singapore and his team describe their establishment as the first “No Frills” wine bar in Yangon that offers quality drinks and food at a reasonable price. With 84 varieties of wine from all around the world, Marco’s is also a full-service wine shop. Address: 499 Merchant Road, Kyauktada Township Contact: 09 789 499777 Hours: 11am to 11pm

Address: Novotel Yangon Max, 14th floor, 459 Pyay Road, Kamayut Township Contact: 09 251185973 Hours: 24 hrs Cellar Door Take a time out from Yangon in the plush and intimate setting of Cellar Door. Take a vinous tour of old and new world wines that have been paired with carefully selected dishes, perhaps while sitting outside on the picturesque balcony wrapped in ivy to catch an evening breeze while watching the sun set. Address: #15, 1st floor, Marketplace by City Mart, 69Pyay Road, 11 Ward, Hlaing Township Contact: 01 525 403 Ext 201 Hours: 11am to 11pm

Contact: 09 264 823 477 Hours: 7am to 11pm

Address: #65 Corner Of Sule Pagoda Road And Merchant Road, Pabedan Township Contact: 01 382 687 Hours: 24 hours

The Wine Bar by Le Planteur When it comes to wine, Le Planteur doesn’t need an introduction. Housing one of Myanmar’s best wine cellars since 1998, The Wine Bar offers a unique possibility to try 32 different wines by the glass, stored in the wine wall at optimal temperatures. You can purchase a “wine debit card” at the door to swipe it on the next occasion and enjoy your favorite drinks more easily.

Atlas Rooftop Bar and Lounge Sitting on top of Yangon’s Rooftop Scene is Atlas Rooftop Bar and Lounge a Place where guests can enjoy an impressive 360° degree view of Yangon including the city’s most famous landmark the Shwedagon Pagoda, and spectacular sunsets over the Yangon River. Boasting an impressive selection of 65 Wines including from unexpected countries such as Japan and Austria and partnering for two years with Champagne Taittinger, one of France’s best champagne houses, this bar is the place to be when you want to enjoy your wine in an outdoor setting.

Address: 80 University Avenue Road, Bahan Township Contact: 01 514 230 Hours: 6pm to 12am E’cucina at Pullman Yangon Centrepoint Pullman grabbed the attention of Yangonites with its Italian E’cucina wine cellar, where you can pair your drink with a choice of dishes chosen by Italian chef Nicolino and enjoy them in the heart of downtown.

Address: Pan Hlaing Street 84, Sanchaung Township Hours: 6pm to 11pm (Closed for monsoon, reopens in October)

Avenue Wine Bar & Bistro Established since February 2012, this place promotes the wine drinking culture with quality and affordable wines. Their selection comes from renowned wineries from all over the world, including France, Italy, Spain, Chile, Argentina, South Africa, USA, Australia and New Zealand.

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Feature

French NGO the European Institute of Cooperation and Development (IECD) is behind the project on Bo Sun Pat Street in Pabedan Township. (Photos by Angel Ko Ko)

MORE THAN JUST BREAD

Lou De Bruycker meets the team at a new bakery school helping disadvantaged teenagers.

rather gloomy staircase leads to a new bakery and pastry school in Yangon. Often sounding the way are a few students practising English phrases, and not far beyond them is a baker’s paradise. Glimmering stainless steel equipment and high-tech appliances crowd the kitchen, but what makes the French Bakery and Pastry School more unique is its commitment to teaching underprivileged teenagers. French NGO the European Institute of Cooperation and Development (IECD) is behind the project on Bo Sun Pat Street in Pabedan Township. The 17 students who come from across Myanmar started the 17-month course on August 6.

and ambitions. Out of 48 applications, 17 students were selected to participate, said project supervisor Shen Noon, 26. When the students had wrapped up their English lesson, they told Myanmore how excited they were to begin the program. “Bakery and pastry is very interesting to me,” beamed Aye Moe Myint, 19. “I’m very happy to be here!” Most of the students had never tried baking or even tasted a croissant before applying, but it did not take long to convert them to the pastries. “I want to be the best baker in the world,” one student declared.

IECD covers their food, rent, and school material costs, with the hope that when they graduate, employers will lap up the qualified bakers, who are reportedly in demand in Myanmar.

A typical day at the school will start with a practical or theory class in the morning followed by a life skills class— generally on culture or health—and then an English lesson. The second half of the program will help the students enter the job market.

IECD enlisted the help of NGOs that have connections with villages throughout the country to select potential students, who were then interviewed about their backgrounds

Project manager Claire Robaye, 28, said the school would sell open as a bakery to the public, selling “good quality and authentic French pastries… at a reasonable price.”

“But this will not happen before early 2019 since the students need to acquire a certain level of skill before commercialization,” she said, adding that the bakery will also sell to other businesses, including restaurants and hotels which “will hopefully hire some of our students in the future.” IECD conducts vocational training, employment, entrepreneurship, education and health in 14 countries. Its long courses and small groups are designed to focus on the individual.

school projects, while in Myanmar it provides assistance to the Yangon Bakehouse and the Inle Heritage Hospitality Vocational Training Centre. The funding partners of the bakery school in Yangon are LuxDevelopment, which is helping with the renovation of the building, the official French Development Agency (AFD), and the Ministry of Hotels and Tourism of Myanmar. Donors include Solidarity ACCOR, EXO Foundation, and Fondation Masalina.

In Vietnam it has two similar bakery MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018

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MYANMORE magazine #23 September 2018