Myanmore Magazine - No.24/ October 2018

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No. 24 /October 2018 It’s free!

magazine

DR MAUNG MAUNG THEIN:

REVIVING THE A MAN BEHIND SECRETARIAT THE SECRETARIAT




No.24 / October 2018

magazine Managing Director Andreas Sigurdsson Managing Editor Lorcan Lovett Junior Editor Min Ye Kyaw Photography Angel Ko Ko Thet Oo Maung Intern Jessica Liang Contributors Barry J Atkinson Duncan Hines Illustration Ben Hopkins Art & Production Kyaw Kyaw Tun Hein Htet Ryan Tan

14 What’s On 8 Cinema 10

Rangoon Rhythm 26 Tech Talk 30

MYANMORE Top 100 32

Printer For All Printing House

The Tea Shop 12

Sales & Advertising sales@myanmore.com 0977 900 3701 / 3702

Photography Portraits of Shan State 14 Features Wave Riders 16 Sri Ksetra and Its Five Players 18 Q&A Dr Maung Maung Thein 20 Eat & Drink Seeds Column/Ethnic recipe 22 PokĂŠ Bar Yangon 23 New openings 24

Publisher MYANMORE Magazine Pyit Thiri Thaw Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited Permit No. 01588

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Disclaimer No part of this publication can be reproduced or transmitted in any form without prior written permission from Myanmore. All details are deemed correct at the time of print. The editor, employees and contributors cannot be held responsible for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions that may occur. www.myanmore.com www.facebook.com/myanmore www.issuu.com/myanmore Follow us on Instagram and Viber.

About Myanmore Myanmore is a registered brand under Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited providing digital and print publishing as well as creative services. Myanmore is managing the leading online city guide www.myanmore.com and printed publications Weekly Guide, EnjoyIt, KnowIt. We also work closely with the team of DRIVE, the first and only premium car magazine in Myanmar. Recently, we have launched application Sarmal (for finding restaurant & bars in Myanmar). The mission is to provide great content and experiences for residents in Myanmar.


® What's on

Dining

world is upon us so book in for a spooky experience at Club Rizzoli to dance your troubles away. The Latin Dance class will be instructed Jay and Nora and costumes and strongly encouraged. No reservation needed. No entrance Fees. For more information contact 01 544 500.

Art & Stage

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Club Rizzoli At Chatrium - No.40, Natmauk Rd, Tamwe Township | From 7:30 pm

Hooked on Seafood 2nd November Seafood fans will delight in the latest culinary offering from Novotel. The Hooked on Seafood night sees guests let loose on three different counters; the Cold Bar, packed with Alaska king crabs, oysters and lobsters, the Chef’s Table, where you can sample something new, and the Fish Market, where you can try a wide range of fish straight from the sea. At only $37 per person with free flow soft drinks, coffee and tea or $45 with free flow wine, beer and cocktails, visit Hooked on Seafood on Friday 2nd November.

The TakeOver Yangon’s biggest hip-hop show is back in town with a star-studded roster of 19 performers during the Thadingyut festival. Yan Yan Chan, J-Me, G-Tone, Chan Aye Win, Jouk Jack, Kyaw Htut Swe, Ar-T, Sandi Myint Lwin, Lan Bar, Sophia, Lil-Z, Moe Htet, Youn Ni Ko, Bo Htet, Nay, Reload, Floke Rose will take over the night hosted by RUN YGN Entertainment. People’s Park - Pyay Rd, Ahlone Township | 6:00 pm - 12:00 am

Nightlife Novotel Yangon Max - 459, Pyay Rd, Kamaryut Township | 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm

Activities

Live Band - The Reasonabilists 13th October

Clash of Robots 28th October Get ready for the the first Inter University Robotic Competition created by West Yangon Technological University Science & Research Club, WYTU SRC. Showcasing the technical skills and creative genius of the students, enjoy a night of robot sumo and obstacle races.

Promotion

24th October

The Reasonabilists are an up-andcoming Myanmar indie band whose music fuses many different elements and is influenced by the music of The Smiths and The National. Their upbeat and catchy riffs are combined with melancholic lyrics create a unique vibe that’s not to be missed – plus it’s free entry. Union Bar and Grill - 42 Strand Road, Left corner of the Myanmar Red Cross Building, Botahtaung Township | 8:00 pm - 10:00 pm

International Buffet Dinner October to December

Halloween Nights & DJ Party 27th October Join if you’re daring enough for a Halloween scare head to The Corriander Leaf Yangon. The night will be undertaken by DJ Leo, DJ Vili and DJ for M on the decks. For more details please contact 09 969684512. The Corriander Leaf Yangon - Building No 12, Yangon International Hotel Compound, Ahlone Rd, Ahlone Township | From 8:00 pm

Try the Pan Pacific International Buffet Dinner at Saan Restaurant for a new dining theme each night, ranging from an Autumn Ocean Harvest on Tuesdays to a BBQ and Carvery on Fridays. Guests can choose between a soft drinks special price of $29.99 per person, or add free-flow beer for an extra $3. For more information please contact 01 925 3810. Pan Pacific - Corner of Bogyoke Aung San Road and Shwedagon Pagoda Road, Pabedan Township | 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm

Aye Mya Thaw Da, PMP Khin Maung Sint, PMP Ernes Emirametov, PMP Latin Halloween Costume Party at Rizzoli 30th October The time of the year when spirits are allowed to visit our human

To become an internationally qualified Project Manager

MICT PARK - Hlaing University, Hlaing Township | 9:00 am - 5:00 pm

Myanmar Certified Training Centers Co Ltd is a Myanmar Registered Education Provider (REP) no 4548 with the Project Management Institute (PMI).

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MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

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Botahtaung Township, Yangon


Cinema Cinemas

Now Showing Venom Action, Horror, Sci-Fi Journalist Eddie Brock is trying to take down Carlton Drake, the notorious and brilliant founder of the Life Foundation. While investigating one of Drake’s experiments, Eddie’s body merges with the alien Venom — leaving him with superhuman strength and power. Twisted, dark and fueled by rage, Venom tries to control the new and dangerous abilities that Eddie finds so intoxicating. Cast: Tom Hardy, Michelle Williams, Woody Harrelson & more.

mastermind hacker. As a man with few skills and analogue methods, Johnny English must overcome the challenges of modern technology to make this mission a success.

First Man Biography, Drama, History The riveting story of NASA’s mission to land a man on the moon, focusing on Neil Armstrong and the years 1961-1969. A visceral, first-person account, based on the book by James R. Hansen, the movie will explore the sacrifices and the cost — on Armstrong and on the nation — of one

Cast: Emma Thompson, Olga Kurylenko, Rowan Atkinson & more.

Coming

of the most dangerous missions in history.

Final Score Action

Cast: Ryan Gosling, Claire Foy, Kyle Chandler, Pablo Schreiber & more.

After deadly terrorists abduct his niece at a soccer match, an ex-soldier with lethal fighting skills wages a oneman war to save her and prevent mass destruction.

Rampant Action, Adventure, Drama

Johnny English Strikes Again Action, Adventure, Comedy

Cast: Dave Bautista, Pierce Brosnan, Martyn Ford & more.

get one last shot at redemption before everything goes wrong.

The new adventure begins when a cyberattack reveals the identities of all active undercover agents in Britain, leaving Johnny English as the secret service’s last hope. Called out of retirement, English dives headfirst into action with the mission to find the

Bad Times at the El Royale Mystery, Thriller

Cast: Chris Hemsworth, Dakota Johnson, Jon Hamm. Cailee Spaeny & more.

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The action story of a hero named Yi Chung who fights against “Night Demons” to save the Joseon nation. Yi Chung is the son of the king and the greatest martial artist in the world. Although he is given to the Qing Empire as a political hostage, he returns home when his brother, the Crown Prince Yi Young, calls him back after many years. And it’s because of the nightmarish monsters plaguing the country that Yi Chung is tasked to destroy.

Seven strangers, each with a secret to bury, meet at a run-down hotel in Lake Tahoe in 1960s California. Over the course of a fateful night, they all MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

Cast: Hyun Bin, Lee Sun‑bin, Jang Dong‑gun, Seo Ji-hye & more. The Grinch Animation, Comedy, Family The Grinch hatches a scheme to ruin Christmas when the residents of Whoville plan their annual holiday celebration. Cast: Benedict Cumberbatch, Rashida Jones, Angela Lansbury & more.

Cinemas in Yangon Mingalar Sanpya Cineplex 09 260 887 035 — 36, 01 230 3 165 Mingalar Cineplex (Gamone Pwint) 09 779 054 671 — 73 Mingalar Cinema 2(Dagon Centre (II) 09 732 54 091 — 92 Nay Pyi Daw 01 251 277, 01 251 288 Shae Saung Cinema 01 252 113, 01 388 034 Thamada Cinema 01 246 962, 01 246 963 Thwin 01 372 594, 01 388 033 Mingalar 01 243057

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Tea Shop

THE TEA SHOP

Illustration by Ben Hopkins Myanmar’s Got Talent This year’s Myanmar’s Got Talent winners were the Junior Creative dance crew, who highlight child abuse and discrimination on the stage with their very own shadow dance act. The group of 10 shaked the audience and judges with their choreography and creative moves which pointed out the current situation in Myanmar. News of their accomplishment and talent has spread across the country.

MasterChef Myanmar American cooking show MasterChef has come to Myanmar. People are already talking about the program, which has 17 participants and three judges; U Ye Htut Win, the founder of Sharky’s Myanmar, Daw Phyu Phyu Tin, co-founder and managing director of Monsoon Restaurant, and Michel Louis Meca, French executive chef of five star hotels. Catch the show every Sunday from 7pm onwards. Check the challenges on facebook.com/ MasterChefMM

Park, Thuwanna. The categories are hatchback, compact sedan, mid-size sedan, prestige sedan, mpv, crossover, compact suv, mid-size suv, prestige compact suv, prestige suv, pick up, luxury car, budget car, car of the year (jury’s choice) and car of the year (people’s choice).

travel bloggers came up with a plan to post on social media beautiful photographs of the country with the hashtags #Myanmarissafe #Myanmarisbeautiful #SaveMyanmar.

#Myanmarissafe Tourist numbers to Myanmar have dropped since the latest Rakhine crisis, with hotels, restaurants and other hospitality businesses feeling the squeeze. In an effort to boost the industry, the tourism board and

Currency Slide The Myanmar kyat rose to 1,600 for $1 at the end of the month, but then fell to 1,560 kyats on October 1 according to the Central Bank of Myanmar. Experts predict the currency will continue to weaken against the dollar.

Myanmar Car of the Year 2018 MCOTY Myanmar Car of the Year 2018 is back with 12 car brands and 50 vehicles in the competition list. With three international and five local judges, the test drives will be held on October 11-12 at The ONE Entertainment

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MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

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Photography

Villages are generally located on mountain slopes and consist of wood and bamboo stilt houses. Pan Lea village is small, with only 23 dwellings. It is estimated that around 3,000 Ann remain today. Their subsistence supply of rice is grown in the valley, at the foothill of the escarpment. The Palaung, who mainly live in the Kalaw area of Shan State, were originally part of the Mon-Khmer culture. Palaung traditional costumes feature vibrant, saturated colors. The married women wear cane rings around their waists to indicate marital status. Most Palaung embrace their traditional way of life and live in long houses uniquely designed and constructed in their own style. Many Palaung families live together communally in 100-foot long houses.

as far south as Keng Tung. It is thought the Palaung migrated to Myanmar before the Shan, who came from China during the 12th Century. The Palaung consists of several smaller sub-cultures including the Rumai Palaung, the Riang-Lang, the Golden Palaung and the Silver Palaung, each with their own dialect. The Palaung live in remote villages together with other ethnic tribes. Over the years, they have steadily assimilated through intermarriage. Since there are no Palaung traditions forbidding inter-tribal marriages, Palaung-Shan marriages are particularly common. Barry J Atkinson is a member of the Australian Society of Travel Writers. He spends much of his time enjoying adventures on Myanmar’s waterways. To embark on one, visit irrawaddyvoyages.com.

The various Palaung groups of Myanmar live in Shan State. Some are located in the northwestern corner around Tawngpeng, while others live

PORTRAITS OF SHAN STATE The mountains of Shan State, near the borders with Laos, Thailand and China, are home to several hill tribes including the Wa, Wa Ann, Palaung, Akhu, Akha, Lisu, Lahu, Loi, Ann and the Pa O. Travel writer Barry J Atkinson of river cruise operator Irrawaddy Voyages journeys to the region to meet and photograph two of the groups.

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he Ann people are shy, reclusive and happily nestled atop a low-lying escarpment near Keng Tung township. Historically they are tribal hunters and their religious beliefs are towards animism;

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worshiping spirit-animals, plants and the elements. The chief is responsible for daily decisions and arbitrations, while the shaman, who is highly revered within

animist villages, is responsible for communicating with the spirits of “friendly ancestors.” The group is famously known as the “black teeth tribe” due to their

devotion to chewing betel-nut. Their dark reddened gums and apparently decayed teeth are also exaggerated by the wearing of a black lipstick, made from the bark of a charred tree.

MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

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Feature

WAVE RIDERS A milestone in the history of Myanmar surfing

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and Resort. “This program is part of the plan to rise a proper surf team, especially now that surfing is going to be an Olympic sport.”

Grasping a red marker, Csiga Balazs, 44, a sun drenched Hungarian who has spent decades surfing the world’s beaches, wrote the names of some dozen local teenagers, four Japanese men, an American and a Briton. Then four of the teenagers grabbed surfboards and dashed into the Bay of Bengal. Myanmar’s first surfing championship had begun.

Myanmar currently has no national surf team, but it does have the seedling of a surf culture growing about a seven-hour’s drive from Yangon in Ngwe Saung, where a consistent two-to-four-foot swell occurs throughout the monsoon season. The plan is to capitalize on these beginner-friendly waves in order to form a national team comprising local youth, many of whom have only recently learned how to swim under the tutelage of the club.

“This is just the beginning,” said Balazs, resident water sports instructor at the sprawling Ngwe Saung Yacht Club

“I would like to represent Myanmar in surfing one day,” said Aung Zaw Lin, 14, who trains every day after school.

t was a typical morning at Ngwe Saung beach. Fishermen hawked sea urchins, tourists snapped selfies, and boats circled a lush outcrop near the shore, all underneath a beating sun. And then came the white board.

Like the other boys, he is taught how to care for the surfboards and keep the beach clean. Their parents, who work as vendors, fishermen, laborers, and painters, shrug at the concept of surfing, while some of the boys knew it from movies. “I didn’t know what it was but it looked really cool,” said Aung Zaw Lin.

director of the yacht club and resort. During the construction of the resort in 2012 he would “use whatever we had, like windsurfing boards” to catch waves.

Balazs also teaches them spear fishing and water sports, and the club gives the teenagers a small monthly salary. “It’s natural they pick up surfing and love it and it keeps growing and growing,” said Balazs, who has worked at the club for two years.

“It’s natural they pick up surfing and love it and it keeps growing and growing.”

Possibly the first person to surf Ngwe Saung beach was Phone Kyaw Moe Myint, 33, a two-time Southeast Asian Games sailing gold medalist and the

He is requesting the government recognize his Surf Association of

Csiga Balazs

The top three surfers in the Myanmar men’s heat celebrate their achievement. (July Niko)

Myanmar (SAM), which he hopes will become an International Surf Association member and so compete against other countries. Tantalizingly, host of the 2019 SEA Games Philippines has proposed the inclusion of surfing as a sport, though that, as well as the debut of surfing at the 2020 Tokyo Summer Olympics, may be too soon for Myanmar. The most ready candidates for a national team are 18-year-old twins Aung Min Naing and Aung Min Paing who the club sent to Bali in order to elevate their surfing game. Their hard work showed on competition day as both made the Myanmar men’s finals—Aung Min Paing took home the trophy. As the twins work at the resort, guests need only venture from the infinity pool down to the beachfront to get a lesson from them. In the afternoon, the surfers huddled around the white board to see who had won the junior championship— Aung Zaw Lin, who was thrust upon the shoulders of his friends. Competing in the open heat was Tomy Tanaka, 44, who works for a logistics company in Yangon. A regular visitor to the beach, he said, “Beautiful water, good waves. This is better than any other beach in Myanmar for surfing.”

Surfers ride the waves at Ngwe Saung beach. (Csiga Balazs)

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MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

Aung Zaw Lin’s friends thrust him into the air after he wins the junior final. (July Niko)

Tanaka, however, was not to win his heat’s trophy—a wooden carving of a surfer. That accolade went to Joshua Hughes, 30, a Yangon resident who’s originally from British surfing haven Devon. “I’m more happy the event took place and the kids got involved,” he said. Hughes gave the club a boost in July with a donation

of seven surfboards, previously used as decorative pieces for downtown Yangon watering hole Bar Bondi until it closed. “Myanmar has a huge unexplored coastline,” he added. “There are definitely some really good surf sports that no one has ever been to.”

But for now, surfers in Myanmar have Ngwe Saung. The sport has officially arrived in the country and it is the passion of the teenagers of this sleepy fishing village who will ensure surfing is here to stay.

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Feature

SRI KSETRA AND ITS FIVE PLAYERS

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Sampan Travel visits the ancient kingdom of Sri Ksetra on the banks of the Ayeyarwady River. Photos by Belinda Lawson.

dorned above the sign at the Red Dragon Hotel in Pyay are three musicians, a dancer, and a squat clown poised gaily. They are the talisman to the ancient Pyu city of Sri Ksetra, or Thayekhittya, Myanmar’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site. The musicians and the clown were unearthed in the 1960s and are evidence of the genesis of Myanmar music, sourced from the oldest civilization known to have lived in this corner of the world. And yet, scant space in Myanmar marketing material is given to these musicians, nor their ancient city. Rise and Fall Visiting Sri Ksetra today one must first travel to Pyay. Set on the banks of the Ayeyarwady, Pyay was an important trading hub

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during the Bagan era, later occupied by the Mon before Alaungpaya rose to power as the head of the Konbaung Dynasty in 1752. Pyay then boomed under the British as an important transit point (known as Prome) for goods running up and down the country. Stretching over five by five square miles, five miles east of Pyay is Sri Ksetra, a Sanskrit name meaning “Fabulous City” or “Field of Glory.” Some legends claim it was built by the mad King Duttabaung, along with an army of ogres and other supernatural beings in BC 443. Other international scholarship states that the city did not come into full fruition until the 5th Century AD, at its zenith until the 9th Century. The Chinese described the Pyu as peaceful people who loved life and hated killing, to the extent that they

would not wear silk as it involved causing injury to the silkworm. This did not prepare the Pyu well for the marauding Nanchao who rode down from modern China in the 9th Century, sacked Sri Ksetra, captured 3,000 prisoners, and threw the rest into the flames of their burning city before returning north to their own capital, Yunna-fu. Visiting Today Today, due to the lack of shelter or services at the site, we don’t recommend you attempt to explore on foot. Bicycles are not permitted, but cars are. Tuk-tuks are usually available to hire upon arrival, as are— occasionally—motorbike taxis and oxen.

King Duttabaung. The first of these you will come across when driving along the main road toward the site from Pyay.

At the center of the site are the foundations of a large brick building thought to be the palace. Further on from this is the Rahanta Gate and next to it the Rahanta Cave Temple within with are eight Buddha Images looking back toward the city. The Five Players A short walk from the Rahanta Gate is the site museum where visitors can view replicates of the Five Players of Thayekhittya: a flautist, a drummer, a dancer, cymbal player, and a clown, each less than 11 inches in size.

This is Payagyi, one of the oldest stupas in Myanmar. Its primitive design is a world away from the more elegant form of those that were constructed during the Bagan Empire. The second great stupa is Payamar, just inside the entrance to the main site, and similar to Payagyi in style but sprouting tuffs of turf. Bawbawgyi Paya, the third great stupa, is the most impressive construction on the site. A 50-yard cylindrical stupa with a golden hti at the top; one of the oldest Buddhist monuments in Myanmar, and indeed in Southeast Asia.

“...accidentally the dwarf old clown only three inches in height, rather weak and poor in art value, was struck by the window frame and fell down to the floor and left behind. No doubt, if a human being, he would surely feel terribly sad to have parted with his dear ones.” So wrote the Mon scholar and author Dr Nai Pan Hla who was at the forefront of the quest to find

the four missing musicians—the “most striking, the most impressive, the most precious art treasures so far excavated in the long span of Myanmar history!” Believing that the artifacts would have been bought by a collector ignorant of their status as stolen national treasures, articles were written and with ardent yearning entreaties were dispatched across the globe. The cause was taken up by senior-editors at the National Geographic Magazine and even First Lady Nancy Reagan. In Autumn 1983 a multi-millionaire by the name of Robert H Ellsworth, of Fifth Avenue New York came forward to announce that the players were in his possession (he had reportedly paid half a million dollars for them) and in Autumn that year he traveled to Myanmar to return the artifacts to the Archeology Department in a grand ceremony. The story attracted worldwide attention and helped reignite the debate of national treasures being returned to their home country. Indeed, that same month the United Nations General Assembly voted on the resolution for the “Return of

The jewels of Sri Ksetra are three giant stupas (of an original nine), built by MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

The originals were stolen in the middle of the night from the museum at Hmawza in March 1967, just weeks after they had been discovered:

MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

Historical Art Objects,” adopted by a vote of 120 to 0. The Sri Ksetra Musicians are today in safe custody at the National Museum in Naypyitaw. Where to next? The case provoked a spike in interest in Sri Ksetra, yet it was not to last. Visitors to Myanmar today — understandably—make a beeline for Bagan, while the more adventurous might make it as far as Mrauk U. Admittedly, Sri Ksetra is not as aesthetically remarkable as either, and should not take priority in a visitor’s first two-week trip to Myanmar. But to curious expats and locals, the ancient Pyu city warrants a place on the bucket list, as do the Five Players in Naypyitaw. Sampan Travel’s Ancient Empires journeys facilitates such a visit, also incorporating Beikthano (“City of Vishnu”) another Pyu city, and Bago, the site of the ancient Mon city of Hanthawaddy. The journey concludes at Bagan. Naturally.

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Q&A

It is very important historically. It is living evidence of Myanmar’s political struggles for independence. It will be the main historical attraction in Yangon.

largest economy in the world, because of their people and government. They have good policy and vision. Q As part of the new Companies Law, foreigners were officially allowed to trade in the YSX. How has that gone?

DR MAUNG MAUNG THEIN Duncan Hines meets the man breathing new life into the Secretariat.

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he sprawling downtown complex whose symbolization of colonial rule in Burma was shattered when the nation’s first flag was raised in its grounds in 1948 is undergoing a major renovation. Dr Maung Maung Thein is the chairman overseeing the project, one of the many hats he has worn over his decades in Myanmar’s private and public sectors. Starting his career in the law department of Yangon University, Dr Maung Maung Thein then served in the state shipping line and housing

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authority. A lawyer by training, he is the executive chairman of ZICO Law Myanmar, but some of his most notable achievements have been at the forefront of modernizing Myanmar’s financial sector. He has been a main proponent of liberalizing Myanmar’s insurance market and credits himself as the driving force behind the Yangon Stock Exchange (YSX), which began trading in March, 2016. He served as Myanmar’s deputy finance minster from 2012-2015, a time of political and economic reforms in the country.

More recently he has begun working with Myanmar’s first arbitration court. Dr Maung Maung Thein, who has a PhD in international economic law, sat down with MYANMORE to discuss plans for the Secretariat, the economy, tourism and more.

development of our capital market. It is an achievement aimed by many previous governments but they couldn’t deliver it. Within a short time I could deliver it.

Q What do you consider your greatest achievement?

Q Trading volumes for the five listed companies on the YSX have sunk since June. What’s your current assessment of the YSX?

My favorite achievements are the stock exchange and [my work in] insurance. I don’t know the greatest, but my heart lies in those two subjects. YSX is the very first step to the

During my time it was very successful. When one of the first companies was listed, people were queuing from 5am to buy stocks. But it’s [performance] is because of two things. The first is MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

Under the new Companies Law foreigners can buy up to 35 percent [in local companies]. In the meantime it will not have a big effect on the YSX. Foreigners will not buy shares for the listed companies on the YSX. Because of the current situation of the YSX they will go to buy shares straight from the companies not listed and become solid equity partners. Even so, they are waiting and seeing. trust; you have to trust to buy stocks, trust in the market, in the regulator. The second is the economy. If the economy will not grow, people will not buy stocks. Trust and the economy are the reason for the failure of the stock exchange. Stock markets always have ups and downs, but for Myanmar the down time is a long way now. Myanmar has huge potential for economic development; the only thing is how to make it happen and that is people. We need a person or government to implement his or her vision and then the economy and stock exchange and other [sectors] will grow. Even in countries not favorable for geographical development, if their government is good they become prosperous. Look at Japan, Germany; they started from the ashes of the Second World War. Now they are doing very well. Japan has the second MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

Q Have any foreigners traded on the YSX? Not yet. The YSX has not yet come up with special regulations for that. Q How does the management of the economy differ now compared to when you were deputy finance minister? I believe that regardless of the situation, if a man has a will, intellect and experience, he can overcome any situation. Likewise, a country led by experienced and well-versed people can overcome any situation. I got this believe from studying other countries such as Japan, Germany, Taiwan, South Korea, and Singapore. The main thing is that you have to choose the right people and that you don’t need to rely on power brokers.

If you rely on power brokers, they will cheat you. You have to select people with a proven track record. The power broker is just telling you a very good thing about the person he is broking. So I think most of the problems of the present rest on that thing: wrong people, wrong place. Q You played a role in establishing special economic zones in Dawei and Kyaukphyu. How are these projects progressing? They have started again from the very beginning, back to square one. Q How about the latest project you’re involved in, the Secretariat. What will it look like when the project is complete?

Cultural Heritage, which has 51 percent, and Zazzle, which has 49 percent. Q Why will it be such an important visitor attraction? It is very important historically. It is living evidence of Myanmar’s political struggles for independence. It will be the main historical attraction in Yangon. Q A cocktail of problems have been plaguing Myanmar’s tourism industry, with the largest being the Rakhine crisis and how it is impacting the country’s image. As the dry season starts, should Myanmar’s tourism industry be worried?

The physical appearance will be the same. According to the plan, there will be a Martyrs’ Museum and Parliament Museum. And then another part of the Secretariat will become offices, and a cultural building will be a showpiece for the cultures of our indigenous people. Then there’s a hall for public utilities such as seminars, meetings, where you can book for weddings and all that. It will be open probably next year, April or May. I think it will be 40 percent museums, and the rest will be a cultural and office complex. And there will be a beautiful park where people come to relax.

Myanmar’s tourism industry should worry about that, but [the Rakhine crisis] will be settled one day. This is not a permanent problem. It might be a temporary problem. But even so, Western tourists are very fearful of that crisis. They think that Myanmar is an unstable country, but Asian tourists, especially Chinese people, don’t think the way Western tourists think. They are still coming. I think the problem has affected our tourism industry. It affects everything. We have to find ways to attract other tourists. I think our tourist industry should launch a massive campaign to counter the very bad image.

Q What companies are behind the renovation?

This interview has been edited for clarity and brevity.

The project was granted to Anorma Art group composing of Myanmar

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Seeds Column | Ethnic recipe c recipe

New Opening

MORE THAN A RESTAURANT

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hen we were creating the concept of SEEDS we were still working at the five-star Banjaran Hotspring Retreat in Ipoh, a magical place nestled in the green lush rainforest and caves of Malaysia. After being engaged for so many years in the high-end fine dining business and hotel management, we felt like setting up a new contemporary restaurant in Myanmar for the young generation. The idea was definitely to point away from the heavy colonial past and to focus on the future in terms of architecture, interior, ambiance and lifestyle. Luckily we found this beautiful plot of land— reminiscent of a semi-island—on the shore of Inya Lake. We transformed the existing house entirely and used as much as we could of local materials and suppliers. SEEDS is a kind of passion project for us. Having been awarded and rewarded from top to toe in the past,

we wish to give back at our stage of life. We realized ideas which we have appreciated from our customers, such as our Birdnest-Dining-Pavilion, a bamboo weaving located within a tree, or a floating pavilion over the lake with its own private jetty. SEEDS is offering diners a green, clean and relaxing environment and therefore a contrast to the busy city of Yangon. To dine here is an experience. We produce each and every ingredient fresh, from bread to pastry items, and homemade. As we have an open kitchen there are no secrets and guests can even dine at the Chef’s Table and watch our team at work. We just cook what we like ourselves, combining European techniques with Asian flavors. Sometimes we also serve Mediterranean inspired dishes especially with a Spanish, Italian or French twist. We only hire local people. Some come back from abroad, some are

very young and at the beginning of their career. Our team is the core strength of SEEDS. We also provide lots of activities not directly related to hospitality, especially in supporting sports and arts, from yoga to running, dress creating, dancing and many more. We are both very artistic people, love all types of creative work and practice a lot of sports to balance our life—therefore we do not only share our profound professional knowledge but also our passion and love for life. This is the key essence of our strongly branded logo, the SEED OF LIFE symbol, which stands for inspiration, creativity and development.

We also take care of our environment—every diner contributes US$1 into our foundation, which we use to build schools.

Lucia and Felix Eppisser are the couple behind SEEDS, winner of the Restaurant of the Year at the Myanmore Awards 2018. Swiss born and classically trained Michelin star chef Felix Eppisser leads the kitchen team at the fine dining restaurant.

MYANMAR ETHNIC FOOD

F

ood is a basic necessity in life. Cuisines differ depending on place and surroundings. Every nationality and ethnicity has its own signature dishes. In Myanmar, the main food is rice and curry and so we try our best to bring all of the different Myanmar variations of this into one place. At Khine Khine Kyaw, we use only high quality ingredients, including our chilli powders, vegetables, fish, fish sauce and meat. For the customers’ convenience, we offer over 20 kinds of vegetables, six kinds of fish paste, and four desserts. Traditional Myanmar snacks are also available on the al carte menu.

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The biryani and butter rice are made by our experienced chefs. Our mission is to provide the best traditional Myanmar food with good quality, service, taste, hygiene and fair price. We always respect and welcome our customers’ feedback in order to improve. Currently we have six Khine Khine Kyaw branches in Yangon, two in Mandalay, and we’re also present in Kyaikhto, Pyin Oo Lwin, Pann Ta Naw, Magway, and Kyoe Pin Kouk. Kyaw Swe is the owner of MYANMORE Awards Myanmar food Restaurant of the Year.

MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

HAWAIIAN FOOD TREND HITS YANGON

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Poké (pronounced “POH-keh”), a Hawaiian staple of raw diced fish tossed with rice, vegetables, and sauces has come to Yangon, writes Min Ye Kyaw.

he healthy dish is not restricted to containing fish at the Poké Bar, which opened three weeks ago opposite the new Krispy Kreme at Bahan Township’s Time Link. The small, colorful joint fuses traditional and modern tastes in a menu that offers sets or ‘make-yourown’ Poké options. Owner Daniel Maung who lives in the US has eight sushi franchises in Chicago. He returned to his birthplace of Myanmar to bring Yangon its first Poké eatery, which using his graphic design skills he has decorated in fresh blue and animal stencils. MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

Poké bowls are available with chicken (5,500 kyats), shrimp (6,500 kyats), salmon (9,500 kyats), tuna (10,500 kyats) and tofu (4,500 kyats) along with various sauces such as citrus, spicy aioli, kimchi, volcano (spicier than spicy), sweet teriyaki, sesame ginger and wasabi. Plus the menu comes with a nutrition guide to calculate the calories, which are modest. Address: 108, Ground floor, Corner of Dhammazedi Road & Link Street, Time Links Shopping Mall, Bahan. Contact: 09 787 411789 Hours: 10am to 9pm

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New Openings

What’s new this month? Secret Bistro Bar

96 Bistro

• Bistro

• Bistro

A dimly lit place that offers shisha and a menu that includes fries, salads, soup, snacks and pasta.

Lit by hanging neon bulbs, this café has quickly become a hit with locals because of its food, served in large portions.

Yuki Japanese Restaurant

Address: 25(B), Sanchaung St., Sanchaung Tsp. Phone: 09 781 618346 Opening hours: 5pm - 2am

• Japanese

Address: No. 18,Room B/1,Bo Yar Nyunt St.,Yaw Min Gyi Ward,Dagon Tsp. Phone: 09695432969 Opening hours: 11am - 11pm

An authentic Japanese restaurant that serves an array of beautifully decorated sushi sets while you are seated on the sakura-patterned cushion, relaxing to traditional music. The prawn tempura, avocado roll and bento box are a must-try. The food is fresh and reasonably priced. Address: No.69, 11 Ward, 6.5 miles, Pyay Rd., Hlaing Tsp. Phone: 09 45582 0720 Opening hours: 10am - 10pm

RedDot BrewHouse MM • Bar RedDot BrewHouse MM is a Singapore franchise offering premium handcrafted beer and snacks in an ambient setting. The firm claims its award-winning beer can reduce insomnia due to its traditional way of brewing. Either way if you drink enough it’s lights out. Address: No. 61, Sayar San Rd., Bahan Tsp,. Phone: 09 263 333 668 Opening hours: 11am - 11pm

Working House Cafe • Fusion This café-cum-diner has a mainly Taiwanese menu with extra offerings of Japanese and Western dishes. Staff recommend the sea salt cream oolong tea. Address: No 13, A Shae Gone St., Sanchaung Tsp. Phone: 09 953 388081 Opening hours: 10am - 10pm

Find out more at sarmal.com.mm

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MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

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Music

DJ YU KT Yu Kyaw Tin, 35, has become a favorite on Yangon’s electronic music circuit, showcasing her techno, deep house and tech house mixes at the best parties. But her first attempt at DJing was only four years ago.

A

Three Yangon Dance Studios

s a business admin student at London’s Kingston University, Yu Kyaw Tin would attend and promote underground techno events, which led her to try out mixing as a hobby. Then she returned to Yangon where she played at friends’ parties and had her first gig at Mojo Bar. Word soon spread about her talents and “ever since I have accidentally been on this path,” she said.

The Dance Lab This is one of the most famous dance studios in the city, probably because of its quality classes and friendly instructors. The Dance Lab connects dancers from around the world and hosts workshops and daily classes. Styles include hip hop, body poppin, locking, breaking, breakdancing, choreography and kid classes.

Learning from friends and YouTube tutorials on DJing, Yu Kyaw Tin, or Yu KT, consistently improved. “As a female DJ in Myanmar, there’s no competition between us at all. I think it is important to support each other, in order for us to grow in this industry,” she says.

In the Charts Address: 14 Myaynigone Zay Street, Ground floor, Sanchaung Township Contact: 09 778 913244 Opening hours: 11am to 9pm

Arts and music festival Wonderfruit based outside Pattaya, Thailand is her top choice for a good party this year and her idol is Russian female DJ, Nina Kraviz.

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This award-winning K-pop dance studio located on downtown’s Bogalay Zay street also offers zumba, street jazz and more.

This studio offers room rentals and guitar classes as well as dance tutorials—all suitable for beginners. Most of the trainers have scooped awards in events such as the Changwon K-pop world festival and K-pop International Dance Competition.

Address: No.97/99, 49th Street, Middle Block, Botahtaung Township Contact: 095035474 Opening hours: 10am to 6pm

Address: No.29/B, Khine Shwe Wah Street, Hledan, Kamayut Tsp. Contact: 09 506 1047 Opening hours: 8:30am to 9pm

The Black Diamond

Yu KT, whose day job is in public relations, now plays at three to six events every month. The advice she gives to aspiring DJs is “make your own unique style with your favorite genre and stick to it,” adding, “Don’t go over everything or you will lose focus.”

MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

Be Leaf Entertainment & Dance Studio

MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

Top Myanmar Albums

Top Worldwide Albums

Kya Naw Yuu Nay The The Key

Scorpion Drake

Sate Nae Luu Wanted

Vibras J Balvin

Mar Irene Zin Mar Myint

Clean Soccer Mommy

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Advertorial Mayangone Township Phone: 0973132161 Opening hours: 5.30 pm - 2 am

WHERE TO PARTY IN YANGON

Vista Bar

come alive when the venue plays host to bands, international DJs, and dancers. Hectic and energetic, Eclipse is one of the biggest and busiest nights

out in Yangon. Address: 4th Floor, Myanmar Plaza, Kabar Aye Pagoda Road, Bahan

Township Phone: 09 44247778 Opening hours: 4:30pm to 2:00am

If the stairs don’t take your breath away, the view will! Loved by locals and expats alike, Vista is one of Yangon’s first rooftop bars and fills up quickly most nights. The menu was upgraded earlier this year and now has more Western dishes and an array of cocktails served in funkly glasses.

Knock back a Tiger Black at some of the city’s top venues

Y

angon revellers are raising their glasses to Heineken’s newly launched Tiger Black, the first black lager in Myanmar. The exciting tipple is made with black rice from the fields of Asia and is a premium variant of the globally acclaimed Tiger Beer.

Address: 168, West Shwegondaing Road, Bahan Township Phone: 09 25266678, 097 3228586, 09 252 6666 78 Opening hours: 4 pm - 1.30 am

Eclipse Bar & Restaurant

Brewed and bottled in Myanmar, Tiger Black is now available at supermarkets, bars and restaurants throughout the country. At 5.5% alcohol by volume (ABV) and with a toasty aroma, the drink is the perfect accompaniment to a great night out. So where are the best places to enjoy it?

Eclipse is actually three bars all in one location, set outdoors on the fourth floor of Myanmar Plaza. The place is divided into the beer club, music lounge, and beer garden: all three

7th Joint Bar & Grill Yangon’s only reggae bar, this compact two-storey venue gets so busy on weekends that dozens of customers spill outside, sipping beer and chatting to strangers at the entrance. The interior is adorned with reggae paintings, flags, and an inevitable photo of Bob Marley. Musicians often play live on Fridays and Saturdays, while later in the evenings the DJs take over as people squeeze in for some fun on the dance floor. Try the bar’s signature jerk chicken or one of its reasonably priced cocktails. Expect to pay from 4,000-7,000 kyats for one fancy drink or some food. Address: G-A/10, Urban Asia Business Center (Corner of 48th Street & Mahabandoola Road), Botataung Township Phone: 09260600552 Opening hours: 5 pm - 1 am

Terminal 5 Bar & Grill Located where Padonma Street meets the bustling Sanchaung Street, Terminal 5 stands above most other beer stations. The two-storey bar is often packed, with people enjoying its great cocktails and snacks. In fact, it is so popular the team has just opened

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their second branch on 19th Street in Latha Township. Address: 27/A, Sanchaung Street, Sanchaung Township Phone: 09796523555 Opening hours: 4pm-1am

Sports Bar A fine place to chill with friends, Sports Bar offers affordable beer and bits along with shots, shisha, cocktails, and of course, live sports. The bar’s mohinga, or fish soup, is famous

around these parts. Enjoy it in the beer garden or in the two-storey bar where the latest football matches are show on a big screen. Address: 37, Kabar Aye Pagoda Road, Inya Lake Hotel Compound, MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

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Apps

TECH TALK Our roundup of some of the best tech to enhance your life in Myanmar. iDiscover Yangon

Get lost in Yangon without actually getting lost with this walking guide that provides users with a sense of the sights and histories of some of the city’s most storied areas, including the Secretariat, the Indian Quarter, and Chinatown. The iOS version of this app was released back in 2014 and it now has an Android version. 1-STOP

Plan your trip to Myanmar and have a hotel bookercum-guide with this app, which includes information on Yangon, Bagan, and Naypyitaw. Maps.me An offline map covering most countries around the world. Just download the map info and use it with turnby-turn navigation. Myanmar Travel Guide HD This app includes offline maps and information about hotels, restaurants, and sights. It also offers a trail of beautiful photos of Myanmar and connects users with small, family-owned places.

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MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

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MYANMORE Top 100

THE TOP 5 JAPANESE RESTAURANTS IN YANGON As chosen by Myanmore Top 100

Bijin Japanese Restaurant Have you ever spotted that small, curious Alice in Wonderland door half way along Yaw Min Gyi Street? If you have, but have never ventured through it, then now is the time to bow down low and venture into Bijin. A simple and sparse restaurant, you can choose to sit at one of the long wooden tables in a private cubicle, or find a stool at the counter where you can view the sashimi and sushi being prepared. The blackened mackerel and miso eggplant are not to be missed and there’s a bar upstairs where you can relax after your meal. At Bijin the food is of the highest quality, and the sake and beer selection compliments it perfectly. Address: 26/B, Yaw Min Gyi Street, Dagon Tsp. Phone: 01252261 Opening hours: 5.30pm - 10.30pm Ietsu Sushi & Soba The fatty tuna at Ietsu has previously been described by a Myanmore Top 100 judge as “one of the best pieces of sushi I’ve had in Yangon.” This bold claim is not surprising considering that Ietsu import their fish fresh from Japan every Tuesday. This attention to detail caught the eye of the awards judges in other ways too; the sushi is served at room temperature, the fish hasn’t been frozen and the soba noodles are handmade in Yangon. Ietsu is a perfect escape from the bustle of downtown Yangon. A prime spot for business lunches, the restaurant feels private and the

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Fitness

DEADLIFT The deadlift is a weight training exercise that lift a loaded barbell or bar off the ground to the level of the hips and then lowered by controlled effort to the ground. It is one of the three power lifting exercise, along with the squat and bench press. Deadlift means the lifting of dead (without momentum) weight that lying on the ground.

D

eadlift is one of the most effective exercises for developing the pure strength that’s a precursor to bodily size and athleticism and also builds total body muscle. The deadlift also improves posture. We live most of our lives in front of our bodies, ignoring our rears. In turn, we develop body frames without balance, leading to a host of postural issues. Hunched shoulders and weak backs, for example. Deadlifting reintroduces as to our body’s backside. Posterior training balances the body, giving us cause to stand taller and with greater strength. It is fill body workout that focus on legs, gluteus, entire back, core and arm muscles. It also most effective way to train the paraspinal muscle which run down both sides of your spine and play a major role in the prevention of back injuries.

Ren Kandawgyi

service is swift and friendly, with the chef often finding the time to greet guests in person. It’s a little pricier than other sushi restaurants, but if you want melt-in-the-mouth fresh nigri, then it’s a price worth paying. Address: 57, 37th st., Corner of Merchant Road, Lower Block, Kyauktada Tsp. Phone: 01377212 Opening hours: 11am - 10.30pm Menzo Tonkotsu Ramen If you’ve never ventured into Menzo Tonkotsu Ramen you could be forgiven as it’s difficult to find, but if you’ve never heard of them, then you clearly haven’t been listening. Hidden away down a little side street off Bo Yar Nyunt, they are famous for their yakitori and have over twenty different types of these Japanesestyle skewers available. The options range from pork belly to parson’s nose. As their name suggests, Menzo Tonkotsu Ramen also specialize in ramen, with styles including tsukemen, a dipping ramen and tonkotsu, a pork bone broth cooked for 15 hours. Menzo Tonkotsu Ramen pride themselves on the quality of their ingredients as the majority are imported from Japan. The restaurant is minimalist, light and well worth looking for the next time you’re in Yaw Min Gyi. Address: 19/A, Unit-15, Bo Yar Nyunt Street, Yaw Min Gyi, Dagon Tsp. Phone: 0111220052 Opening hours: 11am - 2pm, 5.30pm - 10pm

Sushi Tei

Ren Kandawgyi

Sushi Tei

Tucked away in the maze of streets north of Kandawgyi Lake in Bahan Township, Ren Kandawgyi is popular with homesick Japanese expats. The two-story restaurant is a beautifully peaceful space with low tables and cushions hidden behind bamboo screens. Head chef Mr Kuranaga and Manager Mr Ueki are both very experienced in the production and service of Japanese food and have a good understanding of the expectations of their customers.

Sushi Tei is an enormous restaurant on Dhamazedi Road opposite the Savoy Hotel, but don’t let its imposing structure put you off. The restaurant has booth-style dining with an alluring and modern Japanese ambience, while the staff are incredibly polite and highly trained. The menu covers everything you could possibly want including sashimi, tempura, sushi, nabe (Japanese hotpot) and some top-notch desserts. Their sushi conveyor belt is a playful addition which alone makes a visit worthwhile – although the never-ending stream of tempting plates makes overindulgence a constant risk.

The menu is dynamic and takes into account the use of seasonal produce, a key part of creating authentic Japanese cuisine. Their most popular dishes include sashimi, sushi, tempura and sukiyaki. Address: 7C, Wingabar Road, Bahan Tsp. Phone: 01559903 Opening hours: 11.30am - 2pm, 6pm - 10pm

Deadlifting requires the body to pay a heavy tax. It’s best for a beginner to train it at the beginning of a workout. A fresh nervous system means productive reps, because the body more efficiently learns movement and better form is attainable. There are many different kinds of deadlifts. The most common are: Conventional deadlift The conventional dead ranks high on the list of total-body movements because it works virtually every fiber in your physique.

The expert culinary skills of the chefs whipping up sushi and sashimi are on display in the open kitchen and it makes for a mesmerising show.

Sumo Deadlift; your hands are inside your feel with a wider stance. Doing the exercise sumo-style with your feet spread out wider than your shoulders—is a great way to get the same benefits while protecting your back.

Set up as you would for a regular deadlift, with your feet shoulderwidth apart, weight on your heels, and the bar over the middle of your feet. Squat down and grasp the bar with as wide a grip as you can manage. Keep your head and chest up, pull your butt down, then forcefully lift the bar up by extending your knees and pushing your hips forward. Pause briefly at the top, then lower the bar under control. Dumbbell Deadlift Variations (Dumbbell Deadlift, Dumbbell Romanian Deadlift & Dumbbell Stiff Legged Deadlift); for either accessory work or if you don’t have access to a barbell and weight. Dumbbell Deadlift

Push your knees out, keep your back flat, take a big breath and flex your lats; these are key pointers to perform Sumo Deadlift. Snatch Grip Deadlift; your hands will use a circle grip like in the snatch. The snatch grip deadlift is a variation of the regular barbell deadlift. Snatch grip deadlifts are one of the best exercises for working your posterior chain muscles -- the glutes, hamstrings and lower back and are one of the best ancillary exercises for boosting your deadlift.

Hold Dumbbell at arm’s length in front of your thighs. Stand with your feet hip-width apart and your knees slightly bent. Without changing the bend in your knees, hinge at your hips, and lower your torso until it’s almost parallel to the floor. As you lower the weight, keep the dumbbells as close to your body as possible. Pause, then raise your torso back to the starting position. That’s 1 rep. Dumbbell Romanian Deadlift if you examine it carefully, no complete flexion or extension occurs at either joint, and for that reason, many call it an isolation move. Whichever camp you live in, it’s pretty clear the romanian deadlift should be

Address: 126, Dhamazedi Road, Bahan Tsp. Phone: 09444115662 Opening hours: 10am - 10pm MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

There are two main keys, (1) Dragging the bar up your legs, and (2) Keeping your arms straight. You’ll be so much weaker if you bend and try to pull with your arms, or allow the bar to travel away from the body.

MYANMORE magazine #24 October 2018

a trusted go-to exercise on leg day. Make sure to keep the bar very close to your body while your knees are bent, back is flat and chest is up. Try and avoid the tendency to look up in the bent-over position. Dumbbell Stiff Legged Deadlift This exercise is not recommended for people with lower back problems. For the starting position, stand with your torso straight and your legs spaced using a shoulder width or narrower stance. Keeping the knees stationary, lower the dumbbells to over the top of your feet by bending at the waist while keeping your back straight. Keep moving forward as if you were going to pick something from the floor until you feel a stretch on the hamstrings. Exhale as you perform this movement Start bringing your torso up straight again by extending your hips and waist until you are back at the starting position. Inhale as you perform this movement. When performing the deadlift, the lower back and knees are most vulnerable to injury. The wrong technique could prove very dangerous. It is better to lift a lighter weight with proper technique than to try to lift to heavier a weight with bad form. Lifting too heavy a weight causes the spine to try to overcompensate and you can suffer injury. Deadlift is not recommended for lower back joint injured person and should be perform under supervision of trainer.

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