Myanmore Magazine - No.25/ November 2018 by MYANMORE

No. 25 /November 2018 Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s free!

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CHRISTINA KYI BEHIND THE SCENES

No.25 / November 2018

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EXPLORE OVER 2000+ RESTAURANTS, CAFES AND BARS

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I N M FOOD YA N A M A PP R

Managing Director Andreas Sigurdsson Managing Editor Issy Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Arcy Clark

Find restaurants nearby, by type or check what other people recommend

Junior Editor Min Ye Kyaw Cover Photo Love Space Photo Studio Photography Angel Ko Ko Thet Oo Maung

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Intern Jessica Liang

Check out the Collections, a specially curated list for various occasions

Contributors Julie-Ann Pedida Barry J Atkinson Illustration Ben Hopkins Art & Production Kyaw Kyaw Tun War War Lwin

26 Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s On 8 Cinema 10 The Tea Shop 12

Eat & Drink Working House Cafe 28 Cafe Gotham 29 New openings 30

Rangoon Rhythm 32 My Mandalay / Ethnic Recipe 34 Tech Talk 36

Sales & Advertising sales@myanmore.com 0977 900 3701 / 3702

Cover Story Behind the Scenes with Christina Kyi 16 Features Breakfast of Champions 20 Homegrown Heroes 24

Travel Exploring the Ayeyarwady River 26

Book a table or share your experience with a review and have chance to win prizes and discounts.

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Art Facing the Future 14

Q&A U Thet Lwin Toh 22

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Publisher MYANMORE Magazine Pyit Thiri Thaw Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited Permit No. 01588

About Myanmore Myanmore is a registered brand under Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited providing digital and print publishing as well as creative services. Myanmore is managing the leading online city guide www.myanmore.com and printed publications Weekly Guide, EnjoyIt, KnowIt. We also work closely with the team of DRIVE, the first and only premium car magazine in Myanmar. Recently, we have launched application Sarmal (for finding restaurant & bars in Myanmar). The mission is to provide great content and experiences for residents in Myanmar.

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What's on

Art & Stage

One World Through My Lens 16th to 19th November

Idiots Vs Eternal Gosh Live Band 30th November 369 is thrilled to announce that the bands Idiots and Eternal Gosh will play a gig at the 360 rooftop bar at ibis Styles Yangon Stadium from 7:00pm10:00pm on 30th Nov. Tickets are priced are at 15,000Ks including one cup of Myanmar Beer, VIP Table are priced at 200,000Ks and the VVIP Table at 250,000Ks. For ticket information please contact 01 578 101. 369 Dine & Bar - No.369, Laydaungkan Road, ThingaGyun Township, Yangon | 7:00 pm - 10:00 pm

The landscape and nature photographer Ye Naing Wynn is set to showcase his collection of memories from his travels around the world in his first solo exhibition. Set in the Secretariat his mission with the exhibition is to remind us to embrace the diversity and take responsibility for maintaining the true beauty of the world.

Dining

Beaujolais Nouveau 2018 16th November

Women in Business and Leadership Development 2018

Activities

Singapore Festival 2018

16th November

30th November to 2nd December

Join AMCHAM for a Gala Dinner on Nov 16th and a unique evening hearing from truly inspiring leading women from business in Myanmar. Enjoy pre-dinner cocktails, canapes and a three course meal complimented by Australian wines. As a guest you will also enjoy fine music and dance performances, not to mention the chance to expand your business network. Gala tickets are $90 and available from Charmaine Brea 09 426826690 or cbrea@ austchammyanmar.com

The Singapore Festival 2018, organized by the Singapore Tourism Board will be held at Bogolay Zay Street from November 30th to December 2nd. With a purpose to educate the public about Singapore’s urban lifestyle, the landscape, decorations, buildings, street vendors and shops will be displayed in a neat and tidy manner. The residences of the Bogolay Zay Street will also be working with with Doh Eain for this event. Bogalay Zar Street, Botahtaung Township, Yangon | All Day

Myanmar Coffee Festival 2018 20th to 22nd November

Legal Talk with DFDL 14th November 2018 Providing a comprehensive overview of the Singapore International Arbitration Centre arbitration rules this seminar will illustrate how the rules have been implemented in practice to efficiently resolve commercial disputes. CCI France Myanmar team assembled panelists will share their insights and offer practical guidance on doing business in Myanmar. The seminar will also present an overview of one of the key concerns with respect to arbitration in Myanmar -- the recognition of foreign arbitral awards and their enforcement in Myanmar, including grounds for recognition or refusal, challenges and legal issues that may arise, and how the process operates in practice. For reservation please contact 09 42545 0546. Meliá Yangon - 192, Kaba Aye Pagoda Road, Bahan Township, Yangon | 8:30 am - 11:00 am

Pan Pacific Yangon - Corner of ShweDagon Pagoda Road and Bogyoke Road, Pabedan Township, Yangon | 6:00 pm - 10:30 pm

The Secretariat - No. 300, Thein Phyu Road (Middle Block), Botahtaung Township, Yangon | 9:00 am - 5:00 pm

Educational

Dining

Say Paung Kha Tae Yangon Night 22nd November

This annual stage show happens in November and is created by Emperor Music Band. The lineup of artists being featured this year includes Zaw Win Htut, Ringo, Si Thu Lwin, Big Bag, Itö and Gita Yaung Sone. Ticket prices range from 10,000Ks to 70,000Ks. For ticket information please contact 09 778400007 or 09 778400009. Thuwunnabhumi Event Park - Thanthumar Road, Between Shwe Ingyin Housing & Chanthar Gongyaung housing, Thingangyun Township, Yangon | From 6:00 pm

Don’t miss the most famous French wine festival, complete with free flow of wine and French food. The Beaujolais Nouveau is a festive event mixing the French joy of life, gastronomy and tradition. On this day in France, whole villages come together to share wine, food and music, as well as simply have a good time with friends. An important day in the French calendar, it helps to strengthens the sense of community. This year, come and celebrate at The Mercure Kaba Aye. All that excitement, free flow of wine and food for only $40. RSVP 09 42545 0546.

Signature Night Market

Mexican Brunch 11th November 2018

30th November to 2nd December

Mercure Yangon Kaba Aye - 17, Kaba Aye Pagoda Road, Yankin Township, Yangon | 6:30 pm - 10:00 pm

For anyone who loves food and likes to stay out of the midday sun, this is the event for you. Many of Yangon’s best foods shops will come and sell their wares at the best price. The event will last for three days, from 30th Nov to 2nd Dec.

The very first public coffee festival to promote Myanmar coffee among international guests and in a creative atmosphere for coffee lovers. There will be a Home Barista Competition, Beauty & Coffee Selfie Contest and show.

People’s Square and Park - Dhammazedi Road, Sanchaung Township, Yangon | 4:00 pm - 10:00 pm

People’s Square and Park - Dhammazedi Road, Sanchaung Township, Yangon | 10:00 am - 8:00 pm

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Mexican Brunch is back! Head to Union Bar and Grill on November 11th for delicious huevos rancheros, breakfast burritos, tacos, quesadillas and mexican style steak and eggs. Their famous “build your own Bloody Mary” will be in action from 11am, with 2 hours free-flow cocktails, house wines and beer available for just 25,000Ks per person. RSVP 09 250 355 064. Union Bar and Grill - 42 Strand Road, Left corner of the Myanmar Red Cross Building, Botahtaung Township, Yangon | 11:00 am - 5:00 pm

The Third Thursday - Edition #26 15th November 2018 All are warmly invited to the, now famous, monthly The Third Thursday event. This month’s installment will be supported by the amazing Monis from Prime Rib who will be cooking up some awesome BBQ bites. RSVP 01 536 306. The Warehouse Myanmar - 150, Dhammazedi Road, Bahan Township, Yangon | 6:30 pm - 9:30 pm

Thanksgiving Roast & Pool 25th November 2018

international buffet breakfast at The Emporia Restaurant. For more information and reservation please contact 01 544 500. Chatrium Royal Lake Hotel - 40, Natmaut Road, Bahan Township, Yangon | All Day

Birth Month Promotion Until 30th November 2018 Hello November-borns, are you excited for your coming birthday? If you are born in November, come to ParkRoyal and dine on a buffet dinner for free for the famous Birth Month Promotion. Contact 01-250388/01250405 for reservations. Parkroyal Yangon - No 33, Alan Pya Phaya Road, Dagon Township, Yangon | All Day

Celebrate Thanksgiving at the Rose Garden Hotel with a selection of traditional roast choices including turkey with all the fixings, a fish option, themed asian vegetarian corner and salad bar, assorted cold and hot tapas, assorted cakes and ice cream bar, unlimited draft beer and soft drinks. For entertainment there will be a kids corner with face painting, live music and the use of the swimming pool for only $26 per person. Fine wines and champagne to enjoy during your lunch are available for sale. RSVP 01 371 992. Rose Garden Hotel - 171, Upper Pansodan St, Near Kandawgyi Lake, Mingalar Taung Nyunt Township, Yangon | 11:30 pm - 4:00 pm

Promotion

Chatrium Festive Staycation Until 31st December 2018 Relax and have a luxury mini break at the Chatrium Royal Lake Hotel Yangon this festive season. Their staycation package has remarkable benefits including one night accommodation in a Deluxe Room for two adults, complimentary use of Chatrium Fitness Center & Swimming Pool and daily

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Cinema Cinemas

Now Showing

Coming

Bohemian Rhapsody Biography, Drama, Music

The Nutcracker and the Four Realms Adventure, Family, Fantasy

Bohemian Rhapsody is a footstomping celebration of Queen, their music and their extraordinary lead singer Freddie Mercury, who defied stereotypes and shattered convention to become one of the most beloved entertainers on the planet. The film traces the meteoric rise of the band through their iconic songs and revolutionary sound, their nearimplosion as Mercury’s lifestyle spirals out of control, and their triumphant reunion on the eve of Live Aid, where Mercury, facing a life-threatening illness, leads the band in one of the greatest performances in the history of rock music. In the process, cementing the legacy of a band that were always more like a family, and who continue to inspire outsiders, dreamers and music lovers to this day. Cast: Rami Malek, Lucy Boynton, Ben Hardy

In this reimagining of the classic Christmas tale, young Clara needs a magical, key to unlock a box that contains a priceless gift. A golden thread leads her to the coveted key, but it soon disappears into a strange and mysterious parallel world. In that world, she meets a soldier named Phillip, a group of mice and the regents who preside over three realms. Clara and Phillip must now enter a fourth realm to retrieve the key and restore harmony to the unstable land.

Dumbledore enlists his former student Newt Scamander to help. Lines are drawn as love and loyalty are tested, even among the truest friends and family, in an increasingly divided world. Cast: Eddie Redmayne, Katherine Waterston, Dan Fogler & more.

Cast: Mackenzie Foy, Keira Knightley, Helen Mirren & more.

Ralph Breaks the Internet Animation, Adventure, Comedy

Fantastic Beasts: The Crimes of Grindelwald Adventure, Family, Fantasy

Ralph and Vanellope embark on an adventure inside the internet to find a spare part to fix a video game.

In an effort to thwart Grindelwald’s plans of raising pure-blood wizards to rule over all non-magical beings, Albus

Cast: John C. Reilly, Sarah Silverman, Kristen Bell, Gal Gadot, Mandy Moore & more.

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Mi Drama Bringing audiences back to the Burmese society of 1940s, a time before the independence of the country, Mi is based on the novel which illustrates the life of a woman called Mi. The movie displays how five men each has a different perspective of free-spirited Mi. Cast: Paing Phyo Thu, Nay Toe & more.

Cinemas in Yangon Mingalar Sanpya Cineplex 09 260 887 035 — 36, 01 230 3 165 Mingalar Cineplex (Gamone Pwint) 09 779 054 671 — 73 Mingalar Cinema 2(Dagon Centre (II) 09 732 54 091 — 92 Nay Pyi Daw 01 251 277, 01 251 288 Shae Saung Cinema 01 252 113, 01 388 034 Thamada Cinema 01 246 962, 01 246 963 Thwin 01 372 594, 01 388 033 Mingalar 01 243057

Tea Shop

THE TEA SHOP Illustration by Ben Hopkins

Bust of Aung San Suu Kyi Sold to the Highest Bidder The bronze sculpture of Myanmar’s State Counsellor Aung San Suu Kyi created by award-winning Norwegian artist Merete Sejersted Bødtker has been bought for $80,000 at a charity auction. The highest bidder was U Sai Myo Win, chairman of Excellent Fortune Development Group. The Music & Memories event on October 5 was held for the Daw Khin Kyi Foundation, a charity founded by the

State Counsellor in 2012 to honour her late mother. The event, held in the Sedona Hotel Yangon, raised a total of $154,000 for the foundation.

Illegal Wildlife Trade Goes Up in Smoke In a symbolic act, an estimated $1.3 million cache of confiscated illegal wildlife parts was set alight in Naypyitaw on October 4. Amongst the items burned were elephant ivory and skins, tiger bones, antelope antlers and pangolin scales. The Ministry of Natural Resources and Environmental Conservation held the event to send a message to would-be poachers, displaying Myanmar’s new drive to crackdown on the illegal wildlife trade. It is currently estimated that one

elephant is killed every week in Myanmar.

National Anthem Etiquette Cinemagoers in Myanmar were issued a reminder that sitting while the national anthem plays before a film is illegal and anyone doing so could face up to three years in prison and the possibility of 300,000Ks fine. According to the 2010 Union Flag Law, the penalty will apply even in situations where cinemas do not instruct audiences to stand for the anthem and salute the national flag.

Quicker Queues at Yangon Airport The Ministry of Hotels and Tourism have implemented a free-visa system for tourists from Japan, South Korea, Hong Kong and Macau, which started on 1 October. The lifting of visa requirements will likely be extended to more countries in the coming years. The move is part of a strategy to boost Myanmar’s tourist arrival numbers, which have been declining. The government has expressed the wish to welcome 7 million tourists to Myanmar by 2020, although many remain sceptical of the likelihood of this.

Nationwide Blackout A nationwide power cut caused chaos for Monday morning commuters on 15 October as traffic lights across Yangon were down. Communities all across the country woke up to the power outage, which was reportedly caused by a damaged transmission line running between Thapyaywa and Taungdwingyi. Although the cause of the damage remains unknown, it reportedly started at around 6am and power was only fully restored at around midday.

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Art

FACING THE FUTURE: PRESERVING THE PAST After visiting family living in Myanmar, artist Julie-Ann Pedida fell in love with the country and decided to stay on permanently in 2015. She then began working on a collection of portraits of the people she met during her travels. In addition to being the Head of Art at Dulwich College she has also stated working with YGN Walls to bring art to the streets of Yangon. Here she talks about her art and her inspiration.

ince the first day I moved here, I have been amazed by the people I saw in markets, in downtown, on the streets and on my travels around Myanmar, there is such a variety of faces from the young to the old. Emerging countries like Myanmar are moving fast, opening themselves to the world. This comes with a price; sometimes the country’s heritage, the culture and what makes them who they are can get lost in the process. With my art I’m trying to keep the traditional idea of the people I see

in Myanmar, but put my modern graphic twist to the images with bright pop art-styled colours. I’m trying to portray the happy vibrant feeling that this country and the people give. I continue to develop and refine my style, but it’s always colourful and bold. I grew up by the seaside, first in the Philippines then in Phuket, so that is where I acquired my taste for bright and lively colours. My source of inspiration is unlimited as it comes from my travels and who ever I come across in my everyday

life. I have been to Ngwe Saung, Hpa An, Bagan, Mandaly and Hsipaw where I did a 10-hour hike in the Shan mountains. I take photographs when I travel and I make sketches from those photographs. Then I digitalize my sketches on Photoshop and that’s where I play around with colours, concepts and patterns. I’m constantly experimenting.

to the flowers in their hair. It’s an art in itself and part of the Myanmar’s heritage. I come from a small village in the Philippines and it gives me the feeling of home, I’ve always had a huge interest in tribes and people in small villages.

I’ve created a series of Chin ladies as well as monks and girls with thanaka which I want to continue to build on. I draw a lot of girls; I just love all the details from the thanaka on their faces

I have been testing out printing my art onto t-shirts, and in the future I want to exand to prints on tote bags, purses and notebooks. For now I have prints available for order in a variety of different sizes.

MYANMORE magazine #25 November 2018

“With my art I’m trying to keep the traditional idea of the people I see in Myanmar but put my modern graphic twist to the images with bright pop artstyled colours.”

I joined YGN Walls a few weeks ago, after seeing their first mural on 35th Street. YGN Walls is an art collective, co-founded by Delphine De Lorme, that aims to make art more accessible in Yangon through working in collaboration with Doh Eain to develop street art. By creating art pieces on the walls of Yangon we

wish to initiate an open-air gallery that will push people to discover the city through a new window, boost creativity and open-mindedness, and

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connect people through art. We have just started a new project on 41st Street Middle Block, where the YGN Walls workshop is based.

To see more from the collection or to inquire about print sales, please visit Instagram: @julieann.pedida.art

Cover Story

BEHIND THE SCENES WITH

CHRISTINA KYI

After waiting for four years to see her films reach a Myanmar audience, director Christina Kyi is no stranger to fighting for what she believes in. Here she discusses being a woman in a man’s world, her personal bereavement and facing down the Myanmar Motion Picture Academy with Issy D’Arcy Clark. Photography by Love Space Photo Studio.

hristina Kyi’s rise from unknown filmmaker to household name was a slow burning fuse – but one that eventually detonated a fireworks display. Rumours of her debut film Mudras Calling first circulated in 2014 but due to a variety of delays, the completed film didn’t make its way onto cinema screens until March 2018. But while the world waited, Christina worked and her second film Deception was also released earlier this year in January. The hype that had fermented in those four years created an unforeseen explosion of interest, with Deception lasting for a record eight-week screening. Now Christina is working again, scouting locations for her latest film, that notoriously tricky third creation, with her company Central Base Productions. In person Christina is petite, elegant and warm; the moments of intensity in front of the camera are frequently broken by a laugh as she catches the eye of an onlooker. Watching her in the photo shoot, it’s clear that Christina moves every bit as easily in front of the camera as she does behind it. She finds the light, knows her angles and stares the down the lens unafraid. It’s no surprise then to learn that Christina first wanted to be an actress. “When I was young I knew I had a love for film, but all I saw was pretty girls on the screen,” she says. “I didn’t know about the creation behind the scenes. Being a filmmaker is not a usual dream for a Burmese woman.” But for Christina, who studied filmmaking at Gibbs School in New York, the change in decision to

MYANMORE magazine #25 November 2018

become a director came almost as a necessity as she planned to move back to Myanmar. “In Myanmar, they normally focus on the main actor and he often has the chance to choose the actress he wants to work with,” she explains. “But I wanted to act in really good stories, not follow a man or be the love interest. I decided not to act until I found my own story.” Christina’s switch from actress to director was encouraged by her boyfriend at the time Zenn Kyi, who is now her husband. As in life, the two go hand-in-hand in the film industry with Zenn starring in both his wife’s films and writing the script for her second. 15 years ago, it was Zenn who first inspired Christina to write Mudras Calling while they both lived in the United States and she listened to the way he started to speak Myanmar language with an accent. “I thought about the idea of being in between two cultures. Burma and the United States both have two beautiful cultures, but people tend to focus on the differences,” she explains.

anymore. I decided to make a story about the love between a mother and child, about parents who had lost a child. I put all my emotion into it. I imagined what it would be like if I had died first, and then my son would have been like Jaden.” Jaden, the hero of the film, returns to Myanmar as an adult having lived with adopted parents in the United States for most of his life. It’s a story about finding your roots, understanding the unity between cultures and the connection between parent and child. The film is personal, haunting and cut through with mesmerising shots of Myanmar.

“I wanted to act in really good stories, not follow a man or be the love interest. I decided not to act until I found my own story.”

But though Christina first intended Mudras Calling to be a pure love story, it was not fated to be that way. “I got pregnant, and then I lost the child. He lived with us for only 55 days.” The shock and trauma of losing a baby is one that clearly still haunts Christina, she reveals that she had depression for three years following the tragedy and even now fights tears as she speaks. “So when I was writing the script, I didn’t want to make a love story

MYANMORE magazine #25 November 2018

Feature

“I decided to include lots of the locations that I went to when I was pregnant with Tristan, his name was Tristan. We had travelled a lot, places like Inle Lake and Bagan, which is where I poured his ashes in the river.”

emerged when a group chat between many members of the Academy was leaked, showing that they had been discussing the Kyi couple and making disparaging comments.

Christina described the process of working together with her husband to make such a special film as “a blessing” and though nothing can heal the pain, Christina tells me that she is now mother to her second child, a son who looks a lot like his brother.

With awards seasons looming, I wonder if Christina is hoping for recognition despite this but, smiling, she shakes her head. “I don’t really think about the Academy. For me, the audience are more important. I have learned a lot about the Academy and I already know that my type of acting won’t fit with their style – but I don’t care!”

Talking more about working with her husband Zenn, Christina tells me that their relationship on set developed for their second film Deception. “He is totally different on set. He even looks different to me, like another person. He studied method acting, so if he has to be angry for a scene, he is angry all day!”

Earlier this year the growing divide between the established and emerging filmmakers was thrown into sharp relief when well-known actress Swe Zin Htaik described the two camps as “villagers and urbanites” implying the lack of sophistication in films made by inveterate film companies. Swe Zin Htaik, also a member of the censorship board, has previously spoken out against the Myanmar film industry, describing the quality of films as “hopeless” and pointing out the need for more female directors in the industry.

Though this may seem strange, Christina takes a different view saying, “As a director I’m happy to see him taking his job seriously. I stay back because I want him to focus. I learn from him and it also helps to keep our worlds separate.” One of the contributing factors to why Mudras Calling and Deception were released at the same time, despite being made years apart, was partially due to the censorship board who are responsible for scheduling screening dates. Their process can mean long delays for first-time directors, especially female ones at the helm of a project with an unknown cast. Christina admits she faced adversity when trying to raise interest in her film but it didn’t stop her from seeing the projects make it to the screen. “For my first job, I’m not sure if it was because I’m a female director or because I look like a baby, but some people laughed at me and some people complained. Sometimes it hurts me, but my job is more important than the way they treat me. Even when they put me down, I don’t want to change my path. I want to finish my job. That’s how I cope with it.”

Christina takes a more diplomatic view of the situation. Crediting her time studying film she explains; “To me, it’s just about systematic and unsystematic. Making films systematically just means making the film properly, making it the way that other world-famous films are made. It will all change with a new generation who’ve learnt properly. Hopefully the old generation will change too, they can learn from each other.”

Myanmar is well known for having strict censorship laws that restrict what is screened. For Christina, the censorship board are an omnipresent force. “Whenever I want to write a story, I think about the censorship board first. It’s always in my mind. You pick a safe story. For me, as an independent filmmaker, we’ve borrowed money from a lot of people, I can only make one film per year and so if they censor that movie, it’s over for me.” However, Christina remains cautiously optimistic that times may be changing; “I think it’s getting easier, I hope so. But you can’t really be sure because they change their systems all the time and no one can guarantee you what kind of story you’ll be able to show in the theatre.” These strict controls on creativity have had a lasting impact on Myanmar film and although the industry

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“Whenever I want to write a story, I think about the censorship board first. It’s always in my mind. You pick a safe story.” enjoyed a golden era in the 70s and 80s, standards have plateaued in the years since. Plots are thin, colour mixing and visual effects remain rudimentary and the over-acting of stereotype roles is widespread.

As with other international film academies, Myanmar’s has been criticised as being staid in its preferences and resistant to the vanguard in favour of the old. Although up to 900 films are made

MYANMORE magazine #25 November 2018

in Myanmar each year, the Myanmar Motion Picture Academy only selects around 12 for award consideration, signalling both the low standard of the films and the insular preferences of the board. Earlier this year a scandal

To end, I ask Christina about her new project. Though she remains tightlipped for the most part, she will reveal some details. “It’s a deep love story. Everyone can relate. It’s kind of sweet, but not overly happy. I’m hoping it will be released next year.” I wonder if this will be the love story that Christina set out to make all those years ago. Time, although hopefully not too much, will tell. Clothes by Kaung Myat Hair and Makeup by Lin Linn Director’s Chair kindly lent by Sirboni (sirbonifurnishings.com)

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out in particular for the way it works to bring traditional flavours into a modern meal. Vegetarians should try the superb anyar cheese and pumpkin roti wrap. Without doubt one of the prettiest restaurants in the city, the story behind the spectacular colonial building is one of rescue from ruin, and makes it worth a visit. But if that’s not enough to tempt you, there is, of course, mohinga too. No. 644, First Floor, Corner of Merchant Road & Shwe Bon Thar Road, Pabedan Township 7am-11pm Gekko

Burma Bistro

BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS A guide to the best new breakfasts and brunches in Yangon

Bhodi Nava Café A truly exceptional addition to Yangon’s morning meal offerings, Bhodi Nava Café combines all the best ingredients for the perfect lazy Sunday. Think comfy rustic furniture, polished concrete floors and a jungle of plants in a breezy and light space. The hostel-cum-café, which was opened earlier this year by owners Bo and Ben, has been drawing a trendy crowd with its funky tunes and even funkier drinks menu, including the likes of matcha tea cappuccino for yogis to iced coconut latte for the coffee connoisseurs. Vegans and vegetarians will find plenty of options; especially with the colour-coded smoothie bowls which are generously packed with goodness. For those in the market for a more substantial

start, order the latest member of the menu; the superb eggs benedict served with cashew hollandaise, grilled aubergine and avocado. To finish, find your way to the Sweet section where you’ll be torn between a slice of cornbread with honeyed yogurt and a chocolate brownie – both fresh out the oven.

breakfast menu combines classic Myanmar flavours with a European grab-and-go ease. The selection of sandwiches and breakfast wraps were developed by married owners Andy Naing and Aye Thu Zar Thant, who

were influenced by memories of the Myanmar flavours they missed most while living abroad. Resultantly, the dishes are rooted in nostalgia; the grilled chicken sandwich, made with pone-yay-gyi black bean paste stands

17 Bahan Street 2 Yangon MM 11201, Bahan Street 2, Yangon 9am – 8pm Burma Bistro Anyone who wants to sample Myanmar breakfast cuisine, but doesn’t quite feel up to an early morning mohinga, should make their way to Burma Bistro from 7am until 10am. The newly launched

too does its new Sunday brunch. After launching at the start of October, this weekend brunch is open in The Merchant restaurant from 12am until 3pm, complete with free-flow drinks and a live jazz band. Start at the seafood counter where you can have fresh oysters and scallops washed down with a sharp Bloody Mary. With dishes from around the world on offer, you can fill your plate with the likes of traditional Myanmar chicken feet curry, barbequed meats, sushi or freshly prepared pasta. Plus children will love the sweet treats on offer, including ice cream, a waffle station, a chocolate fountain and a rainbow selection of petit fours and puddings.

The newly launched weekend brunch menu at Gekko is a unique experience that’s ideal for adventurous eaters. Though Gekko is usually thought of as the place to head for a vibrant evening meal, the weekend brunch is sure to give just as much reason to visit during the daytime. The menu is split into five parts, ranging from eggs, sharing plates, bao and sweet treats. Ease your way into the day with the eggs royale, which comes with salmon sashimi and miso yuzu hollandaise. Anyone craving something new should try the seafood congee, a surprisingly comforting bowl of rice porridge with salmon and shrimps. Of course no visit to Gekko is complete without a cocktail – no matter what time of day or night it is. For 25,000Ks you can enjoy two hours of free-flow cocktails, beer or soft drinks. The Bloody Geisha, made with shochu and spiced tomato juice, is a Japanese-inspired version of a Bloody Mary that’s well worth the trip alone.

Corner of Sule Pagoda Road & Merchant Road, Yangon 12am-3pm

535 Merchant Street, Kyautoda Township 11am-11pm

33 Yaw Min Gyi Street, Dagon Township 6.30am-10.30pm

Pullman Yangon Centrepoint

Alex’s Deli Yaw Min Gyi is well known as one of the best places to head for ex-pats craving home comforts, and this has now been extended to early breakfast seekers too. Opening at 6.30am each morning, the scent of freshly baked goods wafting from Alex’s Deli is simply mouth-watering. Situated in a shady alleyway beside The Loft Hotel Yangon, the colourful mural and garden beyond make this a sweet spot for an early start. French Head Chef Romain Baqué is a man who knows his craft and the proof is in the pastries. Order a cup of coffee, a fresh pain au chocolat and a strawberry juice and, if you’re lucky, the hotel’s golden retriever might wander over to keep you company too.

Bhodi Nava Café

Pullman Yangon Centrepoint The skyscraping Pullman hotel stands head and shoulders above other downtown buildings and, fittingly, so

Gekko MYANMORE magazine #25 November 2018

MYANMORE magazine #25 November 2018

Alex’s Deli

Q&A

“We want people to spend more time in Yangon, it should be more environmentally friendly; it should be a smart and clean city.”

but Western is for long term. Our State Councillor also understands this. Q What do you think Myanmar can do to repair its bad reputation with Western tourists? Their impression of Myanmar has changed in the last four years. It used to be known as the land of the Lady but today it is know for human rights abuse and as a country of genocide based on the situation in Rakhine. We need a more positive media campaign. But our government is not quick enough to respond, they have no transparency. Tourism is a very sensitive business. In 2007 we had the Saffron Revolution and 2008 there was Cyclone Nargis, but this is worse than those events. Q What are some of the plans to make Yangon more appealing to tourists?

TOURISM FOR PEACE: U THET LWIN TOH As a founding member of the Union of Myanmar Travel Association and the current Chairman, U Thet Lwin Toh has seen many changes to the tourism industry over the years. He first started a tour operations company in 1993, offering pilgrimage tours to India, Nepal, Sri Lanka and Thailand, and quickly became a pioneering outbound tourism operator. Offering pilgrimage tours to India, Nepal, Sri Lanka and Thailand, he was a pioneering outbound tourism operator. Using his 25 years experience, he discusses the struggles facing tourism in Myanmar and his hopes and ambitions for the future. 22

MYANMORE magazine #25 November 2018

Q Tourism has seen a 20-30% drop in the last year; what is the prediction for this coming season? Compared to the last year, this year’s drop in arrivals is not so bad because more Eastern tourists are arriving. Chinese tourists have increased by 36%, Korean by 12% and Japanese by 2%. This is because they have released the visa on October 1st. But this is volume tourism, but our country needs value tourism. That comes from Western countries. Our target is sustainable tourism for the future. Today the day Western market has dropped to up to 40-50%. Eastern tourism is good for the short terms,

Myanmar has many attractions outside of Yangon, but Yangon has only the Shwe Dagon Pagoda. Tourists need sightseeing, shopping, places to relax, as well as entertainment and nightlife. For another attraction in Yangon, last year I introduced the Mingalabar Balloon by Kandawgyi Lake for a panoramic view to see Yangon. We had to close it for monsoon but we are reinvesting in a more efficient balloon. It will be completed very soon. We also have a Lantern Festival planned, like a mini-Disneyland. This project has been approved and will start before Christmas until the end of March. We also want night markets and Sunday markets, every country has something similar. In San Francisco

MYANMORE magazine #25 November 2018

there are farmers market, in Japan they have the 100-Yen markets, but there is nothing like that here. Tourists need somewhere to go after dining. We are going to target Shwedagon Pagoda Road for a market space. For the Sunday market we want Pansodan to be a closed road market. The sellers are very important, if you have a good seller you have a good buyer.

our master plan in September last year and proposed to Unesco. Last month the Unesco inspector was in Bagan. Tentatively Bagan is agreeable but there are a lot of issues for local communities and hotels. They want no more people living in this area but we argued that issue. Our target is for a “living Bagan”; we want existing hotels to remain.

Q Will these new night markets and Sunday markets be publicly or privately funded?

Q What are your hopes for the future of tourism in Yangon?

That’s a very important question. YCDC can do short-term festivals but they can’t manage long-term. We want to appoint an operation management company for this space. They can rent the space and pay tax to YCDC, and they will have to manage everything like organising, security and cleaning. Q What are your thoughts on the renovation plans for the Secretariat? For the Secretariat, we need more renovation and attractions. We need a museum for the martyr’s last meeting. There should be a good library and a coffee shop or bar and some evening entertainment. It’s a unique place but some conservative people are against it being saved. But that’s the wrong way. We should be closing the road outside on Sundays for the booksellers and have vendors selling antiques too. Like Le Rambla in Barcelona, it’s not only for tourists but for local people too.

We want people to spend more time in Yangon, it should be more environmentally friendly; it should be a smart and clean city. People’s mentality is important too. People’s mind-set has become very selfish and aggressive, not kind. I feel ashamed of my people. Tourism is for all; everyone can earn from tourism money. Today the NLD government try to bring peace, but business development is impossible. If businesses develop and everybody can eat and sleep well, peace will follow. Today, the reason we are fighting is because of poverty, especially in rural areas. In minority areas we should be concentrating on education and community-based tourism. We should be promoting tourism there, bringing clean tourism money. It will release their smuggling, their narcotic businesses and trafficking businesses. That’s our dream; tourism for peace. I tried to explain this to Aung San Suu Kyi too – but she’s under a lot of pressure.

Q What is the current status of the Unesco application for Bagan? I’m also a member of Bagan Management Committee. We finished

Feature

HOMEGROWN HEROES New pop-up Recess on Baho Road opens its doors and ushers in a new generation of local talent.

“There has been a sudden increase in local labels, but they don’t have a platform, so it’s all online and all dispersed. We wanted to gather everything into a physical location.”

Thomas Aung, one of the student founders of Recess, explains that the concept for the pop-up originally grew out of the idea to create a unisex ready-to-wear label of their own. This in turn led the boys to discover other Myanmar brands trying to do the same thing and the idea to unite them all was born.

Recess co-founder Thomas Aung

ne of the biggest challenges facing shoppers in Yangon hoping to buy authentic locally designed clothes is that there are few places where homegrown labels are showcased together. While international and well-established brands can afford the city’s lofty commercial rental prices, few options remain for newly emerging brands. The result is that much of Myanmar’s burgeoning fashion scene exists mainly online and country’s creativity often remains unrecognised.

“People usually go to other counties to buy their clothes,” says Thomas. “But in the past few months we realised there has been a sudden increase in local labels, but they don’t have a platform, so it’s all online and all dispersed. We wanted to gather everything into a physical location.” The space the boys have taken over is three floors of an empty office on Baho Road. Each floor has been developed into a specific section for the three aspects of the pop-up.

Recently, a group of seniors at The International School Yangon (ISY), Sithu Kyaw Win, Thomas Aung, Albert Paing, Ye Khant Moe, Zwe Myo Aung and Dillon Kelly, came up with a unique idea to challenge this. The boys, aged between 17-18, saw the need for Myanmar brands to have the physical space to showcase their work and as a result, the pop-up Recess opened its doors on Baho Road on October 20th.

On the ground floor is the café My Drinks, which serves coffees, juices and pastries, on the next level is the clothing outlet and the third floor is reserved for an art gallery. Created in collaboration with ArtAnt, the gallery features works from local artists including Nyan Ye Naing and Aung Kyaw San, and all the pieces were especially selected by the Recess founders to be affordable. “We didn’t want the art to be super expensive,” Thomas says. “We wanted to show that art isn’t always an exclusive thing. Our art ranges from about $40 all the way up to $400.” Finding the right pricing bracket was key for the founders, not just for the artwork but for the clothing too. As Thomas explains they intentionally kept it low; “There’s a misunderstanding here that good

“I think the store is a representation of how Myanmar is coming up. Now we can show that there is actually good, original clothing labels in Myanmar.” Recess co-founder Dillon Kelly MYANMORE magazine #25 November 2018

MYANMORE magazine #25 November 2018

things come at high prices, so all our prices for clothes range from about 7,000Ks all the way up to 50,000Ks.” As the boys worked to gather labels willing to be featured in their popup, they were overwhelmed by the positive reaction to their concept. “Every designer that we contacted was really hyped about the idea of a pop-up,” says Thomas. As word of the pop-up spread, they even began to receive messages from local brands they hadn’t previously heard of, all clamouring to be included. As a result, there are a number of littleknown or newly formed brands to discover at Recess, including clothing labels Fragment of Imagination and Youth of Burma. There are also some well-known local labels, like Her Alchemy and Rangoon Studios. “With Her Alchemy, it’s cool to see that they’re doing more than t-shirts, they’re doing jackets and dresses, and really creating something entirely new and more daring,” says Dillon Kelly, another founder. “It’s great to have a space where we can show that and help encourage it.” Her Alchemy founder Nida Taylor has a mutual appreciation for the concept. “Her Alchemy loves pop-ups, we always do our own and we are very

unique about it,” she says. “I heard about Recess from a senior at ISY and I was so happy to support the idea. My whole family attended ISY and so joining Recess was not about sales for me, I’m just very happy to support the kids from ISY and their cool concept.” As well as being a place to come check out local designers and artwork, for the founders and many of the designers themselves, the pop-up represents the growing confidence in Myanmar design and creation. All the brands featured at Recess were purposefully chosen as they are original concepts, not rip-offs of other brands. “I think the store is a representation of how Myanmar is coming up,” adds Dillon. “In places like Bangkok, you would see this kind of thing a lot but it’s new here. Now we can show that there is actually good, original clothing labels in Myanmar.” Currently Recess is confirmed to run until November 20th but there is a hope to extend the pop-up until December. Check the Facebook page for more information. Baho Shop House 1, Baho Road, Sanchaung Township

Travel

EXPLORING THE AYEYARWADY RIVER Barry J Atkinson discusses life on the Ayeyarwady River. Photography by the writer.

here are few final frontiers left in the world that remain unexplored. Established tourist destinations in South East Asia abound, but remarkably, Myanmar stands apart as a place where intrigue and discovery are still possible. Iconic landmarks such as Bagan, Mandalay, Ngapali, Inle and Yangon have long called to curious, seasoned travelers, eager to explore the Golden Land and to meet its people. But set apart from the paths that link those well-trodden routes is the magnificent, mercurial Ayeyarwady River.

Established in 2016, Irrawaddy Voyages comprises of four stylish river cruise vessels, each designed to navigate the uncharted waterways of Myanmar.

daily presentations. On occasion, particularly between Mandalay and Myitkyina, guests and crew can enjoy sightings of the rare and endangered Ayeyarwady dolphin.

The RV Irrawaddy Voyager I provides guests with a unique cruise experience, plying the waters between the historic city of Mandalay and the iconic destination of Bagan. A variety of short cruises, ranging from one to seven nights, provides guests with the flexibility to suit their specific travel plans and budgets.

Linking the north to the south, this twisting blue ribbon of water is naturally best explored by boat.

For expedition cruises, both Myanmar and foreign guest lecturers are invited to speak during carefully prepared

Each day guests step ashore for a cultural excursion, designed to help enhance their understanding of remote and rural Myanmar. Each trip has also been meticulously researched to embrace the company vision of sustainable, environmentally conscious and minimum impact tourism. In accordance with this and as part of the From The Roots Up Campaign, guests will also be invited to invited to plant their own sapling

during one of the shore excursions along the way. Another popular place for guests to visit along the banks of the Ayeyarwady is the village of Yandabo, which has become famous for its clay pottery. Within the village are around 400 homes, each housing several family members. Approximately thirty of the families are potters, while the rest of the village are farmers, fishermen or suppliers of raw materials, such as clay or wood for the kilns. One potter can make 30 to 50 pots daily. These are typically used for storing food and water and are distributed throughout Myanmar.

MYANMORE magazine #25 November 2018

Yandabo was also the site of the signing of the Treaty of Yandabo on 24th of February 1826, which ended the first Anglo-Burmese War. After nearly two years of war, the treaty was signed by General Sir Archibald Campbell on the British side and the Governor of Legaing, Maha Min Hla Kyaw Htin from the Burmese side. With the British army in force at Yandabo village, only 80kms from the capital Ava, the Burmese were forced to accept the British terms without negotiation.

made with fresh seasonal produce from local markets, select suppliers and remote farmsteads.

While onboard guests are treated to organic gourmet dining, sampling both traditional Myanmar cuisine as well as popular western dishes; all

Irrawaddy Voyages www.irrawaddyvoyages.com

September 2019 will see the RV Irrawaddy Voyager II, a pioneering ship specifically designed for long distance river cruising, undertake the first ever â&#x20AC;&#x153;Source to Sea Expeditionâ&#x20AC;?. Departing from a northerly location between Myitkyina and Bhamo, this adventure cruise covers 1500kms over sixteen days, to the final destination of Yangon.

Review

WORKING HOUSE CAFE REVIEW: SET YOURSELF UP FOR THE WORKING DAY

aunchaung is known as one of the most vibrant and creative neighbourhoods in Yangon so it’s only fitting that its latest addition is exactly that. As their name suggests Working House Café set out to create the kind of space where people can come for breakfast, and then comfortably set themselves up there for the rest of the working day.

Graffiti on the walls depicts the main characters in action including Batman, Catwoman as well as the ultimate villain The Joker. These illustrations

The menu takes inspiration from every corner of the world, ranging from the deeply Instagramable traditional Macau snack gai daan jai, the bubbling egg waffle as well as selection of coffees made with a wide variety of trendy contraptions.

But that aside, it’s a menu with plenty of options. Much of the menu is devoted to teppanyaki, a style of

Japanese cuisine that uses an iron griddle to cook dishes, so for my main dish, I chose teppanyaki noodles with black pepper sauce (3,500Ks). The giant pan-fried noodle plate arrived with carrots, radishes, corn, peas, mushrooms and a half-boiled egg and tasted fantastic. I also ordered an iced German sweet peach and sea salt cream (3,400Ks). This turned out to be a mix of sweet and sour peach soda along with sea salt, white sugar, and cold whipping cream on top. It’s unique and visually very appealing. As a side dish, I tried the crispy seafood dumplings (4,000Ks) that were filled with fish, squid, prawns, mussels and came with sour bean sauce and lemon grass. They were crisp and packed with flavour.

ot only is Cafe Gotham the hero that Yangon deserves; it’s the cafe that Yangon needs. Stationed on Upper Kyimyindaing Road and the corner of Ohn Pin Street, Cafe Gotham opened two weeks ago. Owner Ko Min Bala, 28 years old, has been reading comic books since he was a kid and after watching the series Gotham dreamt of a cafe concept based on Gotham, a crime-riddled city in the DC Comics universe.

Situated on A Shae Gone Street and led by a Chinese owner, the two-storey café has a relaxed and welcoming vibe and a spacious and light design.

Confusingly, the menu layout does little help you narrow down your dining choices. Teppanyaki and Japanese dishes are grouped together, while the Worldly Inspired Flavours sections seems to only include Asian dishes, which makes the Best of Asia section seemingly redundant.

CAFE GOTHAM REVIEW: THE HERO YANGON DESERVES were painted by a famous local artist SATAN aka Toe Wai. Small action figures from the DC universe will join you on your table, adding to the playful vibe. The menu at Cafe Gotham has a variety of coffees created using Spanish blend Catunambú, as well as plenty of lunch and snack options, ranging from tea leaf salad and to cheese burgers. Prices are reasonable, for a little over 5,000Ks you can get a cappuccino and a huge, grilled club sandwich with chicken. Be sure to pick up a business card from Batman on your way out.

Address: 73 Upper Kyimyindaing Road, Kyimyindaing Township Phone: 09 777 188121 | Opens: 10am to 10pm

To finish I couldn’t resist trying the Macau waffles with chocolate dip (3,000Ks). They were light and moreish and made all the more delicious by the chocolate sauce. The temptation to try a selection of the other dishes, from all their various origins, was great but I managed to resist. Someday soon, I’m sure I’ll find myself there to work away from the office and then I’ll enjoy perusing the menu all day long.

Address: 13 A Shae Gone Street, Sanchaung Township Opens: 10am to 10pm Phone: 09 953 388081

MYANMORE magazine #25 November 2018

New Openings

What’s new this month?

The Reading Cafe • Cafe Whether you’re a bookworm, coffee lover or both, The Reading Cafe is right for you. The walls are decorated with quotes from famous books to inspire you and the lighting is set at the perfect level for reading, to not too dim and not too bright. Don’t feel like reading at the table? There is an indoor garden for you to enjoy.

Mr. Bread • Bakery Mr. Bread takes great pride in their products, which are baked with love. There are a variety of choices no matter what your craving is, including bread, cake and pizza. They have over 20 flavour choices for their colorful Japanese cheese cakes. Rare bakes such as charcoal, multi-grain, wholemeal are available too. Products such as durian bread are freshly made out of the fruit when they’re in season.

Pinlon Hawker Centre • Burmese The Rangoon Tea House Group has done it again with Pinlon Hawker Centre, a new concept bringing affordable, quality food to North Dagon. Some of the ingredients are brought from Yunan Region, China and a wide range of traditional Shan food and local snacks are available, from appetizers to desserts.

Address: No 136, Bargayar Road, Sanchaung Township Phone: 09 45070 6201 Opening hours: 10am - 10pm

Address: No. 64, Upper Pansodan Street, Kandawlay, Mingalar Taung Nyunt Township. Phone: 09 42682 8498 Opening hours: 10am - 8pm

Address: 262, Pinlon Road, Ward 30, North Dagon Township. Phone: 09 40399 7635 Opening hours: 10am - 10pm

Pine 24 • Western Enjoy a chilled evening with your pals at the newest bar in town. Pine 24 is a bar and restaurant in a blue neon lit environment offering European food, a vast menu of cocktails and beers as well as shisha. Address: 24 D, Ground Floor, Narnattaw Road, Kamayut Tsp. Phone: 09 963 974422 Opening hours: 4pm - 12am

• Cafe Singapore’s dessert drink cendol is now available in Yangon. Hejohejo Myanmar has started the first cendol shop, which is quite similar to Myanmar’s dessert mont lat saung but is made with almond milk instead of coconut milk. Not only is this a healthier options, Hejohejo also offers multiple different flavours, including matcha and soy milk. Address: Myanmar Plaza, 3rd Floor, Kabar Aye Pagoda Road, Bahan Township Phone: 09 952 628888 Opening hours: 9am - 9pm

Find out more at sarmal.com.mm

Hejohejo Myanmar

MYANMORE magazine #25 November 2018

Music

YOUN NI KO Hip hop to R&B, electronic to acoustic, 21-year-old Youn Ni Ko wants to play it all. Min Ye Kyaw tunes in.

orn in Yangon, Youn Ni Ko grew up on the remote island of Cyprus in the Mediterranean sea after her family moved there when she was young. As she loved to sing from a young age, her uncle in Myanmar gifted her with a guitar when she visited him and she promised him she would learn how to play it. After mastering

the instrument, the next step was songwriting, as Youn Ni Ko explains: “Since I knew how to write song lyrics, that’s when everything started.” While still in Cyprus, she met a producer and created a song called Boy which will be released later this year. A tattoo lover and tennis player, Youn Ni Ko loves to record her daily life in a

diary. “To describe myself, I’m a very optimistic person who likes honesty,” she confesses, but also adds “I also like it when bad things happen because it’s good for me to write songs!” After moving back to Myanmar, Youn Ni Ko was amazed by the indie music scene she found here which already had an audience and nightlife culture.

“I want to be the part of this expansion of indie music in Myanmar,” she explains. Influenced by MUSE, Radiohead and Gorillaz amongst others, Youn Ni Ko aspires to work together with other artists to create fusion in her music career. In her latest track B, she collaborated with the graffiti artist SATAN and local music producer Fakecake. Her next track to be released will be called Boy and her next ambition is to release an EP. As many of her songs are co-produced by local music producers like YDNB, Past12, Jerry Jay, W.A.I and AJOHN, it’s sure to head straight to the top of the charts.

every nightlife venues in Yangon thrilling the crowds with their own tunes and cover songs. With two vocalists, Thar Nge and Jewel, a guitarist and pianist, the group is taking over the Yangon nightlife scene with their hits, and even appear in some Myanmar film original soundtracks. Facebook: thefourmusic Contact: 09 44111 7744 Where is Charlie?

The Four

Usually found whipping up cocktails and charming patrons in Atlas Rooftop Bar & Lounge. The 27-yearold Swiss artist Charles-David Hay started his bar managing and music career in Myanmar at MOJO Cafe & Lounge in Yangon about four years ago. His band Where is Charlie? is a collective of musicians from Myanmar and Southeast Asia that has been performing live blues and rock on various scenes of Yangon since the end of 2015.

After teaming up in December 2015, The Four has performed at almost

Facebook: whereischarliemusicband Contact: 09 263 350 126

Catch Youn Ni Ko’s updates on her facebook page younnikomusic.

The Top 3 Live bands in Yangon

Where is Charlie?

The Messenger

The Messenger Another quartet band The Messenger is made up of vocalist and guitar player Yoe Yoe, Jus with his cajon, Deih Lam on keyboard and Than Thar Moe Htet also on vocals. Catch them playing

Yangon’s favorite hits s at most wellknown venues across town including Harry’s Bar. Facebook: themessengermusic Contact: 09 975 979946

In the Charts Top Myanmar Albums

Photo: Hae Thaw Htet

Top Worldwide Albums

Own Aghori

NAMANANA:03 LAY

A Soe Htae Ka A Kg Kg Kg

Mono. RM

Mar Irene Zin Mar Myint

Love Yourself: Answer BTS

The Four MYANMORE magazine #25 November 2018

MYANMORE magazine #25 November 2018

My Mandalay | Ethnic recipe c recipe

MY MANDALAY

IN MEMORY OF MYAT THANDER TIN A personal guide of the best things to see, eat and do in Mandalay by Myat Thander Tin, the managing director of the Thit Sar Yar Zar Institute and of Melody Solutions Co. Ltd.

well as Mango, Lily, the Myanmar foot wear brand, as well as jewellery shops and a cinema. There’s also a spa and nail salon.

or breakfast in Mandalay, the first thing you have to try is nan gyi thote, a rice noodle dish. Mandalay people call it “mote ti.” I go to a place called Shwe Yaung Lin on 32nd Street – it’s really yummy. If you are a beef lover, Daw Taw is very good. My family have been living in Mandalay for three generations; my grandma ate that kind of mote ti, then my father and now me.

For an evening meal, Mandalay has a variety. If you want Myanmar cuisine, Daung Lann Gyi is wonderful. They serve the food on a lacquer table. ‘Daung Lan’ means ‘we eat together’, meaning that everyone who eats together can share good and bad things. MinGaLarBar and I Bar are also very good. Pioneer and Apex are good for a night out, and Ned Kelly is a new rooftop bar.

Unique Mandalay Tea Room is my favourite teashop. The tea is very good and the coffee is very fresh and also you can order variety of Myanmar food, like mote pyit thalat and mote lat pyar. For a cultural activity, we have the Royal Palace, Mya Nan San Kyaw Shwe Nan Taw. Cross over the moat to go inside and see how it was. To get out of the city I go to Nature’s Life where

you can ride a horse. Just around the corner, there is the Ant Paintball Club. It is only a 30-minute drive from Mandalay.

The shopping is very good in Mandalay. I would recommend the Mingalar Mandalay. It is a shopping mall and there are all kinds of food as

My favourite view is from Mandalay Hill. It’s really amazing, during the day or night. It’s best if you walk up the hill. Hiking lovers should go to Yankin Hill. The view at top is very green and you can enjoy the rural life and local people.

BANANA BLOSSOM SALAD

oved for their crunchy texture, banana blossoms are a great addition to any salad but work best when they’re the star of the show. A healthy option for a hot day, this fresh salad recipe can also be spiced up with green chilis or balachaung. Ingredients (for five people) 2 banana buds 3 onions 1 tablespoon fresh tamarind 2 tablespoons peanut powder 2 tablespoons roasted sesame seeds 1 tablespoon fish sauce 1 tablespoon oil 2 teaspoons chicken seasoning powder 1 lime

Instructions - Peel the banana buds, save the husk and chop into four pieces. - Boil water in a large pot and add the tamarind until fully dissolved. Then add the sliced banana buds. - When the banana buds are soft, immerse in cold water. - Next lightly squeeze the water out of the banana buds and chop them into small pieces. - Chop the onions finely, next immerse in cold water for one minute, before removing and drying. - In a large bowl mix together the banana buds, onions, peanuts powder, sesame seeds, fish sauce, oil and chicken seasoning powder. - Add squeezed lime to taste. - Serve the Banana Blossom Salad in the husk as shown. MYANMORE magazine #25 November 2018

Apps

TECH TALK Our roundup of some of the best tech to enhance your life in Myanmar. Telenor Roaming Rates

Those on Telenor who are hoping to explore countries further afield will be delighted to learn that the network has recently introduced two new internet package plans; Asia9 and Europass. While Asia9, which was launched back in September, will cut roaming costs in neighboring countries, Europass will be available in 14 different European countries, including the UK, France, Italy, Germany. Both plans are available by dialling *979# or through the My Telenor application too. FastGo

Anyone constantly on the move will be thrilled to learn that the Vietnamese ride-hailing app FastGo has announced plans to launch in Myanmar by the end of the year. The app is also planning to expand into Indonesia and will be a competitor for the app Grab which currently has a nearmonopoly on the Yangon taxi service. Polarsteps

For those who want a visual record of memorable trips, this app will do much of the work automatically. Polarsteps is functioned to track your travels, make a journal and map of your trips. You can also add new photos that it misses as you want. The app can be used offline and will only use about 4% of the phoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s battery per day, plus photos can be shared with your friends and family easily too.

MYANMORE magazine #25 November 2018