Myanmore Magazine - No.28/ February 2019

No. 28 /February 2019 It’s free!

magazine

SOE YU NWE

THE GOLDEN GIRL OF CONTEMPORARY ART

No.28 / February 2019

magazine Managing Director Andreas Sigurdsson Managing Editor Issy D’Arcy Clark Junior Editor Min Ye Kyaw Cover Photo Shwe Paw Mya Tin Photography Si Thu Aung Michael Stein Contributors Edwin Briels Illustration Ben Hopkins Art & Production Kyaw Kyaw Tun

14 What’s On 6 Cinema 8 The Tea Shop 10

Publisher MYANMORE Magazine Pyit Thiri Thaw Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited Permit No. 01588

Eat & Drink Chinatown 125 Cafe 24 Theatre2 by Burdubai 25 New openings 26

Rangoon Rhythm 30 Secret Recipe 33

Printer For All Printing House Sales & Advertising sales@myanmore.com 0977 900 3701 / 3702

Cover Story The Golden Girl of Contemporary Art 14

Disclaimer No part of this publication can be reproduced or transmitted in any form without prior written permission from Myanmore. All details are deemed correct at the time of print. The editor, employees and contributors cannot be held responsible for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions that may occur.

Features 10 Under 10: 10 Ways to Celebrate Valentine's Day for Under 10,000Ks 12 Celebrate Chinese New Year in Yangon 28 Q&A Samuel Foot and Jason Brown 20 Travel Exploring Mon & Kayin State 22

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About Myanmore Myanmore is a registered brand under Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited providing digital and print publishing as well as creative services. Myanmore is managing the leading online city guide www.myanmore.com and printed publications Weekly Guide, EnjoyIt, KnowIt. We also work closely with the team of DRIVE, the first and only premium car magazine in Myanmar.

Recently, we have launched application Sarmal (for finding restaurant & bars in Myanmar). The mission is to provide great content and experiences for residents in Myanmar.

www.myanmore.com www.facebook.com/myanmore www.issuu.com/myanmore Follow us on Instagram and Viber.

What's on

Activity

Italian Food Festival 10th February

Art & Stage

JoJo Smith - Live in Yangon 13th February

Do you know how authentic Italian mozzarella is made? Are you sure you would recognize a real pizza at the first bite? Can you distinguish between Tagliatelle and Tortellini? Parma ham and salami? Chianti and Barolo wine?

If you wish to learn more about Italian food and wines, tickle your palate and have fun, please join us on February 10th for the Italian Food Festival, in the garden of the Italian Embassy.

Italian Embassy in Yangon - No.3, Inya Myaing Road, Bahan Township, Yangon | 4pm - 9pm

Night Fest at the Secretariat 11th and 12th February Night Fest @ The Secretariat Grand Bazaar is proudly organized by USDA & Signature Night Market. Let’s experience the American-Myanmar culture at the same time & enjoy the Nightlife of Grand Bazaar. You can enjoy American Branded food and Myanmar traditional food with the entertainment of famous singers Mary and R Zar Ni. Ticket: 5,000Ks for local, and $10 for foreigners.

Secretariat Office - Maha Bandula Road, Botahtaung Township, Yangon | 4pm - 11pm

FHM Singles’ Night 14th February There’s a good news for singles who don’t know where to go on Valentine’s Day. For Her Myanmar Club organized an event to explore your network and socialize. They will give prizes for king and queen of the night and also there will be lucky draw program. So what are you waiting for? Come and enjoy free flow beverages in a 5-star hotel.

Ticket price is 15,000Ks. For more information please contact 09 42440 9727.

Sedona Hotel Yangon - No. 1 Kaba Aye Pagoda Road, Yankin Township, Yangon | 7pm - 9pm

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JoJo Smith in yangon with Dave Thompson and Scott Mitchell on 13th February at Parkroyal Yangon. Do not miss Jojo Smith (UK) with special guests Dave Thompson (UK) and Scott Mitchell (SCOTLAND). Early bird tickets are on sale now for $18 or $23 at the door, which both include one free drink, specials on selected beverages, and free finger food.

Tickets are available for purchase at ParkRoyal Yangon or dial +951250388 for more information.

ParkRoyal Yangon - No.33, Alan Pya Pagoda Road, Dagon Township, Yangon | 8:30pm - 11pm

Charles The French Live in Yangon 2019 18th February For the first time in Yangon Charles the French proudly presents his brand new Comedy Magic Show “Here Comes The Secret”. After 40 performances in Bangkok, the show is now about to tour Southeast Asia.

Don’t miss your chance to watch Charles The French, it is so worth it.

Ticket Price: Advance: 20,000Ks and at the door: 25,000Ks. Best Western Green Hill Hotel - No.12, Pho Sein Road, Tamwe Township, Yangon | 8pm - 10pm

Business

Myanmar Social Investment Forum 2019 26th February Now in its 3rd year, the AVPN Myanmar Social Investment Forum 2019 will convene more than 250 funders and resource providers from Myanmar and Asia-Pacific. The Forum will cover a range of investment approaches - from corporate philanthropy to CSR to impact investing - to identify

Nightlife

collaborative and outcome-focused social investment strategies. Tickets cost $25.

Blast of Love 14th February

Pan Pacific Hotel - Corner of Bogyoke Rd and Shwedagon Pagoda Rd, Pabedan Township, Yangon | 8:30pm - 5:30pm

What is love? Love is Crazy of Love , Romantic Love and Specially true Love as soon as Blast of Love. Valentine’s Day Party at club pyrite with special DJ from Thailand, DJ Foamie. Don’t miss and get love.

Educational

Writing, Myth, and Tradition

Club Pyrite - No.37, Kabaraye Pagoda Road, near Inya Lake Hotel, Mayangone Township, Yangon | From 10pm

Every Monday between 11th Feb to 18th March The store of myth and tradition has always been a rich resource for writers. In this six-week course, we will explore the stories that matter most to us, and that link us to the wider world. We will be moving between genres whether fiction, non-fiction, reportage or memoir and honing our skills in developing drafting and editing to produce some great writing.

Suitable everyone from beginners to experienced writers. The course will be held on Monday evenings, 7-9pm, starting on February 11. Tuition is 200,000Ks per person. Call or email us to register.

Parami Institute of Liberal Arts and Sciences - 3rd Floor, Shwe Gone Plaza, Intersection of Kabar Aye Pagoda Road & Shwe Gone Daing Road, Bahan Township, Yangon | 7pm - 9pm

Valentine’s Day Promotions

Valentine’s Dinner at The Strand Restaurant 14th February Bring magic to the heart of your Valentine’s Day celebrations by booking a table for you and your loved one at The Strand Restaurant for a special gastronomic six-course tasting menu by Executive Chef, Patrick Perié.

Tickets cost $120 per couple or $160 per couple inclusive of wine pairing.

For more information and booking, please contact info@hotelthestrand. com.

The Strand Yangon - No.92, Strand Rd, Botahtaung Township, Yangon | 6:30pm - 10:30pm

Sports

Valentine’s Day Zumba Charity Event Gourmet Set Menu 24th February Dinner The biggest Zumba Event is coming soon and brought to you by Myanmar Zumba Instructors Group. In this event, international licensed Zumba Instructors will be leading together with Myanmar celebrities. Moreover, there will be many shops selling food and fitness related stuffs such as fitness wear, many entertainments and DJ sessions. Please wear white top to the event as theme color is white.

Kandawgyi - Kandawgyi park, Yangon | 12pm - 8pm

14th February It’s going to be romantic, sweet, enchanting. 4-course Gourmet Set Menu to be enjoyed in our garden. $125 per couple, or, $140 per couple with a bottle of Italian wine (please see pictures below for the set menu).

We will provide 10% discount to who comes by L’Opera, books, and prepays by February 12. We also provide 15 minute gondola rides from 5.30pm to 9.30pm free of charge. The romantic numbers to call are 09 7303 0755, 01 66 55 16, 01 66 09 76.

L’Opera Italian Restaurant & Bar - 62D, U Tun Nyein Street, Mayangone Township, Yangon | From 6:30pm

MYANMORE magazine #28 February 2019

Be My Elegant Valentine

Season Of Love

14th February Treat your special person to the elegance and style they deserve during this romantic occasion. Nothing feels better than being able to show your love that deserve with our Special Valentine Package. For Information, please contact 01-9351011~16.

Enjoy Valentine Day dinner with your loved one on 14th February 2019 @ Rose Garden Hotel.

Dinner Package A costs $75 per couple with 5 course set menu dinner, welcome drink upon arrival, 1 glass of sparkling wine, roses and chocolate.

Dinner Package B, costs $90 for a couple with 5 course set menu dinner, welcome drink upon arrival, free flow of wine, beer, soft drinks, roses and chocolate. We also prepare room and dinner package for those couple who want to enjoy both Valentine dinner and room at our hotel. For reservation please call 01 371992.

Lotte Hotel - No. 82, Sin Phyu Shin Avenue, Pyay Road, 6½ Mile, Ward 11, Hlaing Township, Yangon | All Day

A Romantic Valentine Plan 14th February Make your Valentine’s Day the most special and romantic one at Meliá Yangon. Melia present Valentine’s Buffet Dinner at the Market and Valentine’s Set Menu Dinner at Olea restaurant. They prepare matching T-shirts, Valentine’s Photocall, Romantic table set up including free flow of drinks. For more information and reservation please contact to 01 934 5000.

Meliá Yangon - No.192, Kaba Aye Pagoda Road, Bahan Township, Yangon | 6:30pm - 10:30pm

Valentine’s Day Romantic Dinner 14th February There’s a special Valentine’s Day Romantic Dinner on deck of Yangon Rhythm Cruise along with beautiful sunset. Couples will get their own dinner table on cruise, get Valentines gifts, have a chance to ask for their love fortune, chance to take beautiful photos with professional photographers, couple karaoke singing contest and also fun couple games. It’s best for those who are busy with works and not much time to arrange all those and have a fantastic lovely evening with their loved ones.

It will definitely be a dramatic evening.

For more information and ticketing please contact to 09 895711240, 09969910128.

Botahtaung Jetty - Near Botahtaung Pagoda, Seikkan Township, Yangon | From 5:30pm

14th February

Rose Garden Hotel Yangon - No.171, Upper Pansodan Road, Mingalar Taung Nyunt Township, Yangon | 6pm - 10pm

For reservation please contact to 09 893387847, 09 5172433.

The Treetop Wine Bar - No. 1, U Sein Maung Road, Mayangone Township, Yangon | 6:30pm - 9:30pm

Staycation

Valentine’s Getaway at The Strand Hotel Create even more unforgettable memories by taking advantage of The Strand Yangon one-night Valentine’s Room Package. Priced at $430, the package includes suite accommodation for the night of 14 February 2019; six-course Valentine’s tasting menu for two at The Strand Restaurant with wine pairing and

champagne; and breakfast for two to be taken at The Strand Café. Couples booking on 15 February will also receive the special rate of $300 for Superior Suite category including breakfast. The offer can be booked from now until 13 February 2019. Rates are payable in full at time of booking and are non-refundable. For more information and booking, please contact info@hotelthestrand.com.

The Strand Hotel - No.92, Strand Road, Kyauktada Township, Yangon

Valentines at Savoy Hotel - Dine With Your Heart 14th February It’s that special time of year again to show your loved one how much your care for one another. At Savoy you can savour your moment together with a scrumptious 4 course set menu and a welcome drink. We will place all our tables around our pool and take care of the right lighting to set a romantic mood. Chef Florian and his team will make sure that the food will be on point to impress your loved one. The price will be $45 per person and we will have a special gift for you.

For reservation please contact to 01 526289.

Savoy Hotel Yangon - No.129, Dhammazedi Road, Bahan Township, Yangon | 7pm - 10pm

Couples & Canvas 14th February Before you take them on a lovely dinner, come paint together and create a keepsake.

Couples Canvas Painting & Wine.

Price is 35,000Ks per person and that includes free flow wine, sexy snack bar, couples themed custom painting, step by step instructions or freestyle guidance and canvas to take home.

MYANMORE magazine #28 February 2019

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Cinema Cinemas

Now Showing

Coming

The Kid Who Would Be King Adventure, Family, Fantasy

Alita: Battle Angel Action, Adventure, Romance

Old-school magic meets the modern world when young Alex stumbles upon the mythical sword Excalibur. He soon unites his friends and enemies and they become knights who join forces with the legendary wizard Merlin. Together, they must save mankind from the wicked enchantress Morgana and her army of supernatural warriors.

Set several centuries in the future, the abandoned Alita is found in the scrapyard of Iron City by Ido, a compassionate cyber-doctor who takes the unconscious cyborg Alita to his clinic. When Alita awakens, she has no memory of who she is, nor does she have any recognition of the world she finds herself in. As Alita learns to navi-

Cast: Louis Ashbourne Serkis, Denise Gough, Dean Chaumoo & more.

Gravity of Love Romance, Drama Fah is a woman who doesn’t believe in destiny. One day she meets Zen, a man who is seemingly perfect and Tae, a pilot. They both fall in love with her and the question remains – who is she going to choose?

Cast: Jarinporn Joonkiat, Chatborirak Pakorn, Louis Scott & more.

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gate her new life and the treacherous streets of Iron City, Ido tries to shield her from her mysterious past.

Cast: Rosa Salazar, Christoph Waltz, Mahershala Ali, Eiza González & more.

London Sweeties Romance, Drama A humor-filled story of a group of Thai living in London. With their lack of English language, plenty of chaotic but fun love stories await.

Cast: Nattapong Chartpong, Kidakarn Chat Kaewmanee, Sarah Dyas & more.

The Knight of Shadows: Between Yin and Yang Action, Fantasy A legendary demon hunter (Jackie Chan), tracks down beasts that enter the human dimension, assisted by a lawman protégé and a motley group of friendly monsters.

Cast: Jackie Chan, Elane Zhong, Ethan Juan & more.

Friend Zone Comedy, Romance On this planet, there are many men and women who are climbing on the border of the relationship of being “friends”. This small area along the border is called the international name “Friend Zone”. Palms is one of the people trapped in the Friend Zone of Khong. So what would he do next?

Cast: Baifern, Pimchanok Luevisadpaibul, Naphat Siangsomboon, Young Jason & more.

MYANMORE magazine #26 December 2018

Manikarnika: The Queen of Jhansi Action, Biography, Drama

The Only Mom (Burmese) Thriller, Family, Drama

Story of Rani Lakshmibai, one of the leading figures of the Indian Rebellion of 1857 and her resistance to the British Raj.

A family move out of town to raise an autistic daughter peacefully. Their new colonial-style house is full of old photograph taken by the wetglass process. The girl changes, the emotional daughter becomes a polite and sweet little girl. The mother feels she really has became a perfect mother for the first time. But the house getting stranger day by day because of a mystery that has been unsolved for a decades. Who is really inside the little girl, the same autistic girl or a spirit? Will the mother want her real daughter back or continue with a sweet little girl?

Cast: Kangana Ranaut, Ankita Lokhande, Danny Denzongpa & more.

Happy Death Day 2 Horror, Mystery, Thriller Stuck in a time loop, college student Tree Gelbman must die over and over again to save her friends from a psychotic masked killer.

Cast: Nine Nine, Wut Hmone Shwe Yi, Daung & more.

Cinemas in Yangon Mingalar Sanpya Cineplex 09 260 887 035 — 36, 01 230 3 165 Mingalar Cineplex (Gamone Pwint) 09 779 054 671 — 73 Mingalar Cinema 2(Dagon Centre (II) 09 732 54 091 — 92 Nay Pyi Daw 01 251 277, 01 251 288 Shae Saung Cinema 01 252 113, 01 388 034 Thamada Cinema 01 246 962, 01 246 963 Thwin 01 372 594, 01 388 033 Mingalar 01 243057

Cast: Jessica Rothe, Israel Broussard, Ruby Modine & more.

MYANMORE magazine #26 December 2018

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Tea Shop

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MYANMORE magazine #28 February 2019

THE TEA SHOP Illustration by Ben Hopkins

Reuters Journalists Lose High Court Appeal On January 11th Myanmar’s High Court ruled to confirm the conviction and seven-year sentence of the two Reuters journalists Wa Lone and Kyaw Soe Oo. The journalists may now choose to file an appeal to the Supreme Court.

Dala: The New Golden Valley?

After 6 years of deliberation, a plan to build a bridge connecting Dala to downtown Yangon was finally given the green light, causing a small spike in property prices in the sleepy riverside village. The bridge is expected to take over 3 years to complete and will cost $138 million.

Rainbow River On 26th January the Yangon River was transformed into rioting rainbow of colours and music as the Yangon Pride celebrations took to the water. River Pride, the first ever flotilla celebrating LGBTQI in Yangon, saw revellers enjoy a sunset cruise on two party boats.

All Aboard Commuters who use Yangon buses will no longer have to worry about having enough “small money” to pay their daily fare. In January Yangon Bus Service announced that will be installing card payment systems to 2,000 of its buses within six months.

Don’t Mention the ‘Civil’ War At a recent press conference in Nay Pyi Taw, a spokesperson for the Tatmadaw warned journalists not to use the phase ‘civil war’ when referring to the fight against the Arakan Army. Instead, the term “war of annihilation against insurgents” is preferred. The comments follow a spate of raids on January 4th in which the AA killed 13 policemen in Rakhine State.

MYANMORE magazine #28 February 2019

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Feature

10 UNDER 10:

10 WAYS TO CELEBRATE VALENTINE’S DAY FOR UNDER 10,000KS Just because it’s Valentine’s Day, it doesn’t mean you have to go bankrupt to impress your date. Here are 10 activities to do with your loved one in Yangon for 10,000Ks and under that will still ensure you have a special day.

1. Pick a lake-side spot to watch sunset An oldie but a goodie. Countless relationships have been cemented

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with a few stolen kisses on the grassy banks of Yangon’s biggest lake. For a few extra brownie points, bring a blanket to sit on

and a guitar to strum out some Ed Sheeran ballads.

Price: Free

2. Go for early morning waffles Hejohejo in Myanmar Plaza have a steal of a deal waiting for early morning risers. For 1,600Ks you

MYANMORE magazine #28 February 2019

could enjoy a Singapore pandan waffle made with chocolate, strawberry or honey as well as a cup of tea, available in five flavours.

Price: 3,200Ks for two

3. Paint portraits of each other Head to the supermarket and buy some paints and paper so you and your loved one can attempt to capture each other in artistic expression. Word to the wise, there’s no such thing as a portrait that’s too flattering.

Price: 5,000Ks 4. Get a couples foot rub In a city where there’s a foot massage parlour on every street corner, why not book you and your partner in for a relaxing foot rub together? Surely the most fun you can have without taking all your clothes off, this PG13 activity will give you both the chance to spend some time together in harmonious silence, breathing in the sweet scent of tiger balm.

Price: 8,000Ks

5. Dazzle your date with your general knowledge Valentine’s Day this year falls on a Thursday, which is happily the day when 50th Street hosts their weekly Pub Quiz. Spend the days before swotting up on your collective nouns, flags of the world and notable Oscar winners to prove that geek really is chic.

Price: Free

6. Give a private karaoke concert What better way to prove your love than belting it at full volume in a karaoke bar? From Whitney to Mariah, channel the greats to make your love heard. Head to the newly opened Diamond Entertainment on U Wisara Road where the small room is usually priced at 20,000Ks but, thanks to their special 50% discount promotion, you can take to the mic in style for one hour.

Price: 10,000Ks 7. Go to the movies Watching films together at the cinema is a must-do date, especially on Valentine's Day. Choose a movie, book tickets for two and grab some popcorn. JCGV cinemas can be booked through their messenger chat bot and you can select your seats and pay online too.

Price: 8,000Ks

9. Play with puppies and kittens Yangon’s famous cat-filled Freedom Café has recently welcomed a new puppy section for canine fans. As well as the fourlegged friends, the café is known for its sandwiches and coffee making it the perfect place to show your softer side on Valentine’s Day. Price: 10,000Ks

10. Go for drinks in the Melia’s Garbo Bar Treat your date to a cocktail at one of the smartest hotels in Yangon.

From 5pm-7pm each evening, the Garbo Bar at the Melia hotel has a buy-one-get-one-free cocktail promotion.

Price: 10,000Ks

8. Stargaze from the bonnet of your car Not a fan of indoor activities? Why not park a car outside the parking lot in front of Mya Kyun Thar by Inya Lake, opposite to Sedona Hotel Yangon. Here you can act out every rom-com-lovers fantasy and lay on the bonnet while stargazing.

Price: 500Ks

MYANMORE magazine #28 February 2019

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Cover Story

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MYANMORE magazine #28 February 2019

THE GOLDEN GIRL OF CONTEMPORARY ART From finding her name listed in Forbes 30 Under 30: 2019 for Art & Style to shining a light on gender issues in her serpentine sculptures, ceramic artist Soe Yu Nwe is a force to be reckoned with. Here she discusses exploring her Chinese heritage, finding inspiration in everything from the natural to the divine, and searching for mushrooms in Chinatown. Words by Issy D’Arcy Clark. Photography by Shwe Paw Mya Tin.

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n the streets of Chinatown, strings of red and gold lanterns create a canopy overhead, while small shops selling decorations for Chinese New Year spill out onto the street; a tangle of gaudy banners, stacks of red envelopes and boxes of golden pig ornaments, stuffed with jellied sweets. The preparations for the new era, welcoming in the Year of the Pig on February 5th 2019, have electrified Yangon’s “Little China”, found between Shwedaungtan Street and Shwedagon Pagoda.

I am here to meet the ceramic artist Soe Yu Nwe who is freshly buzzing from finding herself listed in Forbes 30 Under 30: 2019 for Art & Style, as well as the success of her recent solo show ‘Serpentine’ at Myanm/art, which proved so popular it was extended by 10 days.

As we walk through this vibrant area that speaks volumes about Myanmar’s multicultural history, she tells me that Chinatown has significance for her family too. “My mum and I come here when we need to buy special ingredients for Chinese dishes, like wood ear mushrooms,” she tells me. “And also things for ancestral worship.”

may be slowly changing, she tells me she grew up sensing distrust and misunderstanding among different ethnic groups and her childhood experience was tinged with the feeling of alienation. “I noticed that the language that I spoke at home was different from school and I remember not understanding what people are saying,” she says. “That sort of barrier, that distance and confusion, is something I try to explore in my work.

I’m interested in intimacy and the complexity of individual identity.”

As a third-generation Chinese immigrant, Soe Yu Nwe has not always been so at ease with her heritage. While at school she was painfully aware of her difference to the other children as a result of being ethnic Chinese. Though times

It’s obvious that since embarking on her journey of self-discovery through her work, Soe Yu Nwe has begun to find her voice. Though during the photo-shoot at Chinatown 125 Café Soe Yu Nwe is a little shy, relying on her sister, Kyi Zar Thein, to give her

MYANMORE magazine #28 February 2019

"I’m interested in intimacy and the complexity of individual identity."

Soe Yu Nwe

direction, when it comes to speaking about her work and inspiration, Soe Yu Nwe transforms. She is eloquent, almost to the point of being poetic, and has a quietly burning focus on the ideas that echo in her work.

At the ‘Serpentine’ exhibition in Myanm/art, four huge ceramic snakes, one gold, one silver, one brightly pearlescent and one multi-hued, adorned the walls. The snakes are a precursory representation of the Burmese dragon queen, Naga Mae Daw who is described in Buddha’s birth stories. Soe Yu Nwe developed her fascination with the creatures while casting around for an animal to use as a self-symbol and she started to explore her Chinese identity – and the fact that she was born in the Year of the Snake.

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Cover Story

“Snakes have very contradictory connotations. In a lot of cultures, they are a symbol of evil, but in Burmese spirituality, snakes sometimes take on the meaning of guardianship.

They’re powerful and strong, but they use their strength and power for good purpose,” she explains. “In my new series, I am exploring the Naga Mae Daw, an underworld guardian.

Even though ‘naga’ means ‘dragon’ in Burmese, it actually means ‘snake’ in Sanskrit. I’m interested the root of this transfiguration from snake to dragon.”

In addition to having a spiritual implication for Soe Yu Nwe, the snake as a symbol also has an additional, equally double-edged, nuance to it. “Snakes are associated with a dangerous sense of femininity, like a femme fatale who can lure men into doing bad things, but then it’s also a masculine symbol as it’s phallicshaped,” she tells me. “It’s a very loaded symbol and I think that’s a very interesting starting point, especially to talk about gender issues.”

In Soe Yu Nwe’s hands, the representation of the Naga Mae Daw

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is fragmented, often wounded; with sections of her body burst open to expose bodily tissue or scales, but also delicate flowers, glass leaves and golden buds.

need to be reincarnated into a man's body. This thought deeply wounded me – the thought that I am born less, spiritually tainted and will never be what a man can be.”

“It’s the wound of being female in a society that tells you that you’re inferior,” she explains. “In Burmese society, women are thought of as being born with less ‘hpone’ than men. This essence gives all men a spiritual power and places them on higher spiritual ground, allowing them to reach enlightenment. To reach enlightenment as a woman, you

As well a being a comment on the state of womanhood, I wonder if this interplay between the exterior and the interior, the serene smooth surface breaking at the wound to reveal turmoil and injury beneath, is also a metaphor for Myanmar society. To this, Soe Yu Nwe gives me a tight-lipped smile. “I think it’s a very interesting read,” she says kindly. “I MYANMORE magazine #28 February 2019

“By touching the clay and feeling what’s in my hand, it bridges a gap in my own psychology.”

Soe Yu Nwe leave my work open to how people interpret it and I’m sure as an artist who has lived here, I’m influenced by the undercurrents of the politics and the socio-economy of this place.”

feeling what’s in my hand, it bridges a gap in my own psychology. You don’t feel the same distance compared to working with a paintbrush.”

In the future Soe Yu Nwe has an ambition to move more into glass blowing, with a vision to create a huge glass chandelier that will descend from the ceiling into a big instillation of sculptures of animal-humanhybrids below – and perhaps even an ogress.

When considering the delicate flowers, the sculpted hands and feet, the exposed sinews in snake flesh, it may be unsurprising to learn that Soe Yu Nwe originally wanted to study Biology to become a pharmacist.

While at school she had never had an art class, but had a particular interest in the anatomical drawings she studied in science at school in Yangon.

After being accepted into Albion College in the USA to study Biology, she soon decided on a drastically different course and changed her major to Bachelor of Fine Arts.

After seeing the sculpture of the ogress Sanda Muhki on Mandalay Hill, Soe Yu Nwe was inspired by the story behind this female figure, who cut off her breast to give to Buddha as a gesture of devotion. Though Buddah refused the ogress’s offering, he predicted that she would be re-born as a king who would rule the country and myth has it that King Mindon Min was the reincarnation of Sanda Muhki. From the open wound to the conflation of the male and female, it’s easy to see why this story means so much to Soe Yu Nwe.

This interaction between the natural world and the spiritual is another omnipresent theme within Soe Yu Nwe’s work, a link that was solidified during her upbringing when her parents anointed a tree in her grandmother’s garden to be her godmother. “This idea of having something in nature, non-human, as your mother and also given a spiritual meaning interested me. It means they connect with you, interact with you and have a relationship with you,” she explains.

Nathalie Johnston, the founder and director of Myanm/art, was also drawn to Soe Yu Nwe’s work for it’s spiritual themes. “Her examination of spiritual practices is relevant for Myanmar society, where Buddhism reigns as a lifestyle, as much as a religion or philosophy,” says Johnston. “She looks at the symbols and rituals and helps reimagine them in physical form.”

But as well as the spirituality, Johnston also admired the medium in which Soe Yu Nwe expresses herself. Speaking of her decision to show her work at Myanm/art, Johnston says; “The fact that she practices ceramic and glass, both incredibly difficult mediums that require well equipped studios

and good quality material, neither of which you can attain in Myanmar, was probably the thing that made me think that the art community in Yangon need to see her work.”

But though her work is unique, I can’t help but ask if sometimes, when she’s packing up her fragile pieces for the next exhibition on some far-flung corner of the world, she ever just wishes she had chosen flat-packfriendly canvas instead? “Every time!” she laughs. “Especially when they break.”

MYANMORE magazine #28 February 2019

But over the years Soe Yu Nwe has learnt the tricks of the trade to make her work mobile, using pillow stuffing to fill the negative spaces in her sculptures and creating pieces that can be dismantled. These steps have been necessary as she has a connection to ceramics and glass that goes deeper than the aesthetic.

“When I was in the US, I felt depressed and lonely, alienated from my surrounding,” Soe Yu Nwe remembers. “Working with clay was a good because it brings a kind of intimacy. By touching the clay and

2019 is sure to be a busy one for this artist on the rise. Bolstered by her fantastic achievement of being listed in Forbes 30 Under 30, Soe Yu Nwe is helping to further the recognition of artwork from this forgotten corner of the world by curating an exhibition of Southeast Asian contemporary ceramics for Pottery Northwest, Seattle in May. In addition she is also planning two residencies, one in Australia and the other in Cambodia.

To cap it all off, she has also recently received the news that she has been listed as one of the 30 finalists for the prestigious Sovereign Asian Art Prize. But despite the accolades and ambitions, the hype and the hopes, while the residents of Chinatown prepare for the Year of the Pig, Soe Yu Nwe remains ardently focused on the new era that's dawning for her: the Year of the Ogress.

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Q&A

SAMUEL FOOT AND JASON BROWN: THE MAGIC OF BEANS Exactly one year after swapping web consultancy for coffee beans, Samuel Foot and Jason Brown, the founders of Sawbwa Coffee, talk speciality coffee, the many nuances of small-batch roasting and satisfying the caffeine cravings.

Q How did you begin Sawbwa Coffee?

Q What are the ideal conditions for growing coffee?

In February 2018 we took over from a small specialty coffee start-up called BurmaRoad. At the time we were running a marketing web consultancy.

Sharky’s were considering whether they take it or not, but coffee’s a big product to perfect and it has a lot of nuances. We had more bandwidth, so we decided to buy BurmaRoad, rebrand and grow it properly.

Generally coffee farms tend to lie in spots with higher altitudes and warmer climates. But coffee plants also need shade so ours are grown alongside protective bushes. The acidity of the soil is important too, if there’s too much acid plants won’t grow, but if there isn’t enough then you don’t get interesting flavours.

“We try to keep a middle ground between being coffee snobs but also bring speciality coffee to the market and helping people to appreciate it.”

Q What was your knowledge of the coffee industry before then?

Q Where does your coffee come from?

Let’s just say, this year has been a massive learning curve for us. For almost nine months all we did was we eat, sleep, and breathe coffee before we even put out products for sale.

We buy most of our coffee directly from farmers in Southern Shan State which is important because we don’t use middlemen. We were introduced to these farmers through Winrock

International, an American program which helps these particular farms to grow and process extremely high quality coffee called ‘specialty coffee’.

This means that it has ranked over 80/100 by the American Specialty Coffee Association (ASCA). This year we will buy from about 11 farms.

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Q How does “From Poppy to Coffee” work?

One group of farmers that we buy from in Southern Shan State used to grow poppies for opium. But the climate, topology and the altitude there means it is an ideal position for MYANMORE magazine #28 February 2019

growing really good quality coffee.

The farmers learnt the skills for how to grow and process coffee in line with specialty coffee standards. It recently scored around 88/100 with the ASCA, which is up there with the best. So now they get such high prices for their coffee; it makes sense over growing opium. It allows the farmers to have a legitimate source of income as, before, they were getting methamphetamine in exchange for their crop, no cash. This year, our investment will allow six new villages to come on board.

Q How does the roasting process work?

It’s a bit of an art and a bit of a science; there are lots of variables. Every single coffee has a different chemical composition, a different moisture level and a different density. At the moment we roast 1kg at a time as we have a very small roaster, but we we’re getting a bigger one. Roasting coffee in small batches allows you to better control what's happening to the bean, such as the caramelization, the maillard effect and the development of the inside of the bean.

Companies like Starbucks, who want to make their coffee consistent, roast

their beans dark to create a bitter flavour - and people have got used to that. Increasingly, people want more interesting flavours and in order to taste them you have to roast a lot lighter. But this creates risk, as it’s not a uniform batch.

Q What is the range of products that you have?

We have three single origins which we roasted slightly lighter to play with the different flavour profiles. Then we have a few coffees that we roast darker – classic filter blends and an espresso blend – and a cold brew and nitro range. By blending beans you are trying to achieve a certain flavour, so you might have 90% dark roasted beans to give it a body, and then 10% lighter roaster beans, which have characteristics like a berry flavour.

Q Your coffee is considerably more expensive than other coffee on sale in Myanmar. What is the reason for this?

Our coffees are amongst the highest graded specialty coffees in the country – all other speciality coffees in Myanmar have a similar price. We use arabica beans and we buy at $9 per kg, straight from the farmer. With cheaper brands, their beans will be

MYANMORE magazine #28 February 2019

generally roasted in massive roasters, holding 30 to 100 kg, so they will likely have a burnt or bitter taste. Many brands also use robusta coffee, which has a distinctively less interesting taste than arabica. They’re also buying their beans at around $1 per kg from a commodity exchange.

coming onboard in the future. There's no preference for us with how to sell it. We try to keep a middle ground between being coffee snobs but also bring speciality coffee to the market and helping people to appreciate it.

Q What is the story behind the artwork on your packaging?

Ensuring that we maintain quality as we grow. We’re already seeing a huge increase in sales and even just to keep up with that we're going to need to be very focused on our new roasting facility. There are many things coming up that we can’t mention, but the next few months will be exciting for sure.

We wanted our coffee to celebrate the vibrancy and richness of Myanmar so Samuel came up the idea of using illustrations of Myanmar fables to describe the coffee. For example, with our coffee Harp, we chose a fable called The Harp Master, which describes these bright notes of music coming from a harp with no strings, which helps to explain that this dark coffee has colourful, floral notes.

Q Your coffee is available in places like Sharky’s as well as Pun + Projects and 57Below’s restaurants – do you prefer selling to businesses?

We're supplying the institutions that we think will really show off the coffee in the best possible ways. But we’re also doing a lot with retail; we’re now selling at Sharky’s, the airport and at ProMart, and more retailers are

Q What’s on the agenda for 2019?

Q How much coffee are you drinking day to day?

Insane amounts! Today we’ve been visiting venues in Yangon, tweaking espresso machines to get them perfect; tweaking and tasting, tweaking and tasting. Barristering is an art; we’ve got so much respect for baristas and latte art too – we can’t stop watching videos of the competitions! We never drank Red Bull before running a coffee company but now we have to – we need the caffeine to keep our levels up!

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Travel

EXPLORING MON & KAYIN STATE

A bridge in Kayin State by Cees Rijnen

Some of the most interesting states in Myanmar are often overlooked in favour of the well-trodden routes to Bagan, Inle Lake and the coast. Two such states that often fail to make it into itineraries are Mon State and Kayin State, both only a 6-hour drive to the east of Yangon. Edwin Briels, MD of Khiri Travel Myanmar, leads the way on a 4-day adventure, from the Bago highway, down towards Mawlamyine and concluding in the scenic landscape surrounding Hpa-An. Mon State Somewhere lost in Mon State, so myth has it, is the city Suvarnabhumi, which is so famous that Bangkok airport is named after it. Allegedly located near Bilin, indeed there are remnants of ancient city walls nearby. While there, you can also visit the historic Kyite Htee Saung Pagoda, which is just 20 minutes’ drive off the main road near Bilin. Further along the same road is the town of Thaton, which is worth a stop to see the market and visit the bamboo Buddha statue.

The capital Mawlamyine is interesting for culture lovers and the Mon Culture Museum is excellent for understanding the local traditions.

Stroll around the neighborhood and it quickly becomes clear that the

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British liked the city as well as they left several churches behind, including the crumbling but picturesque St Matthews Church which was built in 1887.

The main site to visit in Mawlamyine is the beautiful Seindon Mibaya Monastery, famed for its fantastic woodcarvings. Built by Queen Seindon Mibaya, and her entourage of workers of course, after she escaped the Mandalay Palace massacre that saw all possible claimants to King Mindon’s throne executed, paving the way for the last King Thibaw and his wife Queen Supayalat. The Seindon Mibaya monastery is probably the best example of how the Mandalay Palace once looked. Queen Seindon Mibaya became a Buddhist nun until her death and her tomb is still in the compound.

Seindon Monastery in Mawlamyine MYANMORE magazine #28 February 2019

Further south you can also visit the huge reclining Buddha and the interesting Phar Ouk weaving village where Mon longgyis are woven.

How to get there…

Thanlwin River

By Road Book a bus or order a private car from Yangon, down the Bago highway and onwards to Mawlamyine.

To continue into Kayin State and on to Hpa-An, the best mode of transport is a boat over the Thanlwin River; a beautiful trip of about 3-4 hours with interesting stops on the way in small villages. The Thanlwin River is narrower than the Ayeyarwaddy and in the distance you will be able to see the limestone mountains in Kayin State.

The Ordination Hall in U Na Auk village

Do stop at the small jetty in U Na Auk village, which has a particularly fascinating history. Mr Na Auk was a Mon trader, living in this area during the British colonial era. He was famous for his intelligence and ability to trade successfully with the big British companies. He later became a patriotic symbol of having good trading sense and being kind to his fellow countrymen and his legacy is still taught in modern schools.

Where to stay…

In Mawlamyine There are plenty of decent 3-star hotels in Mawlamyine: Cinderella (forget about the pink wall paint; the service is very good), Queen Jamadevi, a hidden gem, the new Hotel Suggati or Attran Hotel.

Statues of Buddha in Hpa-An

From the U Na Auk village jetty you can take a tuk-tuk to visit the amazing carvings and decorations on the temples and Ordination Hall donated to the village by Mr Na Auk. The U Na Auk Temple committee does not ask entrance fees but a donation is greatly appreciated – I would suggest a donation of 5,000Ks per person, as the community really needs the money to keep the buildings in such a good shape. In my opinion, these are honestly the most beautiful temples in Myanmar and I wouldn’t be surprised if they become a Unesco World Heritage Site one day.

Kayin State The people of Kayin State (formerly named Karen State) are known for their traditional lethwai skills and have unique languages and traditions, whose origins are still very much unknown to scientists until this day.

The state of Kayin offers beautiful natural scenes with traditional villages and waterways surrounded by spectacular lime stone mountains.

Though the town of Hpa-An may still be searching for its soul, the surrounding caves are spectacular and

By Air There is one Myanmar National Airlines flight per week between Yangon and Mawlamyine on Mondays.

In Hpa An Spoil yourself and stay at the luxury Keinnara Hpa-An (formerly Hpa-An Lodge) or stay closer in town the 2-star Hotel Gabbana.

Book now…

Khiri Travel Myanmar offer a 4-day private guided itinerary including all transport, sightseeing, several special meals, accommodation, entrance fees and activities starting from $495 per person based on 2 persons.

The view through Saddar Cave

well-worth visiting. One of the best caves is the Saddar Cave, where you can walk through to the other side and enjoy the fantastic view; alternatively you can take a small boat to pass through a creek under the rock. The Kaw Gun Cave is also very beautiful, with thousands of ancient small Buddha statues lining the walls.

The landscape, with the green paddy fields and the majestic limestone mountain formations coming out of the water, is ideal for biking trips, walks through the traditional Kayin villages in the forest or an hour of leisurely

MYANMORE magazine #28 February 2019

kayaking through the paddy fields.

Don’t be fooled by monsoon, June until December is the best time to go kayaking. Adventurous travellers with a good level of fitness can climb the Zwekabin Mountain or the Taung Wine Mountain. Visit the Linno Caves around sunset and witness the spectacular sight of thousands of bats flying out.

Edwin Briels is MD of Khiri Travel Myanmar and has been working over 15 years in travel in Myanmar and will share his experiences travelling in Myanmar in a monthly column.

Khiri Travel 01 375 577 khiri.com edwin@khiri.com

What’s more, the influence of Thai cuisine seeping over the nearby border means that those visiting Kayin will also taste some of the best food in Myanmar.

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Review

CHINATOWN 125 CAFÉ A peek at the Beijing coffee scene

T

here’s something courageous about opening a small restaurant in Yangon in current times, when even some of the biggest names in the culinary scene are struggling to fill chairs.

But while fine-dining options may be facing tougher times, the café scene, boosted by Yangon’s newfound love affair with coffee, is thriving. Each month a scattering of small cafés open across Yangon and the latest addition to this list is Chinatown 125 Café, found on the bustling 19th Street.

arriving I was told that they weren’t in stock – and neither were three other items I selected from the food menu. In the end I settled for a slightly strange order, made-up of the dishes from the menu that were available; Hong Kong orange chicken (3,500Ks), fried okra (2,300Ks), a brownie cheese cake (2,300Ks) and a hazelnut latte (3,500Ks).

Deeply Instagramable, the small two-storey café is styled like a classic Chinese teashop, with red walls, low tables, Chinese art on the walls and the prettiest selection of crockery you ever did see.

The Hong Kong chicken was a bit confusing; although the dish tasted good, the neon orange sauce completely took the crispiness out of the deep-fired chicken, rendering it a slightly soggy. On the other hand, the fried okra was superb with a light batter and well-balanced spicy dipping sauce that truly proved just what the kitchen was capable of.

The first thing that tempted me to visit Chinatown 125 Café was a picture of black charcoal dim sum on their Facebook page, however upon

But of course, the main attraction to visiting Chinatown 125 Café is the coffee – and rightly so. Not only was the hazelnut latte delicately flavoured,

bringing out the nuttiness in the coffee beans, it was also decorated with a cute bit of latte art to show that real care had been taken too. To accompany my coffee the slice of brownie cheesecake was the ideal sweet treat.

While the staff who took my order were friendly, the service was a little

haphazard with dishes taking up to 45 minutes to appear – and some not appearing at all until after a gentle reminder.

All told, would I recommend jumping in a taxi to visit Chinatown 125 Café at the first possible opportunity?

Probably not. Would I recommend popping in for a coffee if you’re already in the area? Absolutely. Chinatown 125 Café may not have the fullest fridge or most attentive staff in Yangon, but it has charm and potential in abundance and given time and a support, the rest is sure the follow.

Address: 125, 19th Street, Upper Block, Yangon Contact: 09 897 646338 Opening Hours: 9am-10pm

Review

THEATRE2 BY BURDUBAI Enjoy movie-magic vibes in Yankin's latest hotspot

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ankin is positively teeming with restaurants and BBQ houses so any new-comers to the scene have to really make a splash to stand out. Thankfully Theatre2 By Burdubai as done exactly that by creating a cinematic experience for guests inside an eyecatching, two-storey, orange building with stained-glass windows.

Once you enter, you will be greeted by plenty of soft spaces to sit as well as some trendy paintings on the walls.

On the first floor, the VIP lounges are available to reserve as well as some LED-displays and its own mini bar. For

those who love to sit outdoors, there’s also an open rooftop area on the second floor.

Upon your arrival, you will be given a complimentary packet of rainbow popcorn to add to the movie theatre ambiance. The buffet is priced at 12,900Ks per person and includes spicy pork ribs, fish paste fried chicken, mango salad with crab, steamed fish with lemon, papaya salad with mussels, seafood griddle cake, French fries and much more. For an additional 7,000Ks, you can also enjoy a free flow of beer.

MYANMORE magazine #28 February 2019

Other premium dishes like the mixed grill, spicy seafood set and the premium spicy octopus salad can be ordered in addition to the buffet menu. We ordered the spicy octopus salad (5,900Ks) which was surprisingly good – and very spicy. We also tried Thai-style spicy chicken feet salad (3,500Ks) and the mixed grill with cheese sauce (5,900Ks). The chicken feet salad was quite tasty and the mixed grill came with chicken, pork, fish and prawns. But it was also good and the meat was soft and well grilled.

As it was Wednesday night it was also Ladies Night so the crowds started to gather to enjoy free-flow cocktails for ladies from 6:30pm to 8:30pm.

Overall, the atmosphere is good, creating a nice place to chill with friends and listen to EDM music, with a sprinkling of pop and R’n’B.

Address: 61/Za, Aung Zeya Road, 13 Quarter, Yankin Township Contact: 09 7650 73816 Opens 4pm till mid

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New Openings

What’s new this month?

Jeff’s Kitchen Taw Win Branch • Western Jeff’s Kitchen is a casual restaurant brand which has already gained popularity with locals and expats for it’s food and ambiance. It has now proudly opened their new Taw Win branch on Ahlone Road, Dagon Township in a two-storey classical building with a wide parking area.

Address: 292 Ahlone Road, Dagon Township, Yangon Contact: 09 731 43877 Opens 10:30am - 10:30pm

Knob N’ Knockers Bar & Grill • Bar & Restaurant Serving a selection of German and Italian cuisine, Knob N’ Knockers Bar & Grill is a new delight for Yangonites who are looking for a buzzing bar to while away their Fridays.

Address: Bld D, Room num G-12, Corner of Saya San Road and Kaba Aye Pagoda Road, Pearl Condo, Bahan Township, Yangon Contact: 09 699 849777 Opens 11am - 2am

Find out more at sarmal.com.mm

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MYANMORE magazine #28 February 2019

Thai Restaurant at Wyndham Grand Yangon • Thai Experience Thai-infused gourmet cuisine at Yangon’s hottest new hotel. Found on the 3rd floor, guest can sample noodle dishes with fish, meat or vegetables while drinking down a delicious cocktail.

Northlander

Address: No.11, Corner of Kan Yeik Thar Road & U Aung Myat Road, Mingalar Taung Nyunt Township, Yangon Contact: 01 9377 188 Opens 6:30am - 10pm

• Western Northlander Restaurant & Bar has plenty of options for both meat-eaters and vegetarians whilst remaining one of the healthiest options in town. The BBQ kebab sticks, cheesy burgers and fresh fruit juices are well worth trying.

Address: 301 Bo Aung Kyaw Street, Kyauktada Township Contact: 09 978 382376 Opens 10am - 10pm

Chinese 47 • Chinese Thai 47 Group has gained popularity among the locals with their expanding branches. They have now opened a totally new restaurant with a Chinese concept, a departure from their usual Thai theme. Chinese 47, on Link Road, offers a wide range of Chinese cuisine, including everything from dim sum to cocktails.

Address: 91, Shwe Gon Daing Road, Bahan Township, Yangon Contact: 09 893 200 400 Opens 6:30am - 11pm

MYANMORE magazine #28 February 2019

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Feature

CELEBRATE CHINESE NEW YEAR IN YANGON Check out Myanmore’s choice of the best Chinese restaurants in Yangon to celebrate Chinese New Year with your friends and family.

Hong Bao Dim Sum and Authentic Hong Kong Cuisine Located in a beautiful colonial style house with a pleasant garden, Hong Bao offer an incredible number of curry combinations – over 200 variations, and more than 30 types of Dim Sum listed in the menu. The head chef is from Hong Kong and sources his ingredients there to ensure quality and authenticity. They also offer a Yu Sheng set menu and an a la carte menu which specialized in pork.

Hong Bao

Address: Pyay Road, Dagon Township Contact: 09 769 339530 Opens 7am - 10 pm Western Park It seems the town of Yangon and its visitors cannot get enough of this restaurant, which specialises in Peking duck. Besides the food having a good price point, they also put on a show of duck-carving at your table, which gives an added visual bonus. Plenty of Chinese weddings celebrations take in their many branches.

Western Park

Thingangyun branch: 6th Floor, Beside Sky Star Hotel, Corner of East Race Course and Lay Daunt Kan Road, Thingangyun Township Contact: 018604622, 018604633 Opens 10am - 10pm Western Park Ruby: Lower Kyi Myin Daing Road, Ahlone Township Contact: 01 230 0217 Opens 10am - 10pm

Golden Duck

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Kandawgyi branch: Nat Mauk Road, Bahan Township Contact: 01 553 91 Opens 10am - 10pm

People’s Park branch: People Park & Square compound, Pyay Road, Sanchaung Township Contact: 09 4444 37 223 Opens 10am - 10pm Golden Duck The name says it all: roast duck is the thing to order when visiting Golden Duck. This restaurant has two branches; the one on Saya San road is known to pull a crowd while the other near Shwedagon Pagoda is reputed for its view. Both restaurants are spacious, making them ideal for large groups.

Dagon Branch: Kan Taw Mingalar Garden Compound, U Wisara Road, Dagon Township Contact: 01240216, 01706488, 0973229233 Opens 11am - 9:30pm Bahan Branch: 1E Saya San Road, corner of Kabar Aye Pagoda Road, Bahan Township Contact: 01 546 249 Opens 11am - 10pm Fook Mun Lau Fook Mun Lau specialises in food from China’s Sichuan region. Some of the best dishes to try are spicy pork ribs, steamed ginseng chicken and Sichuan spicy shrimp. The grand restaurant is filled with spectacular Chinese decorations, making it a great option for a birthday party or celebration.

Address: Mya Kyun Thar, Kabar Aye Pagoda Road, front of Sedona Hotel, Bahan Township Contact: 01 661 839 Opens 9am - 2:30pm, 5pm - 10pm

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Kou Fu Kou Fu is very popular with both Myanmar lo­cals and Chinese expats.

The venue is always buzzing with customers, perhaps because of its extensive menu that is reasonably priced and varied. Popular dishes are steamed wontons and noodle soups, grilled beef and Koe Kant tradition grilled Chicken.

Canton Paradise Like a Hong Kong drama, Canton Paradise spells oriental chic with vibrant chirpy interiors akin to the bustling activities present in Cantonese eateries. The steamed prawn with beancurd and oyster sauce, crispy bbq pork bun, pork wonton and steamed tofu are popular dishes among a wide choice.

Address: 24, Baho Road, Corner of Pyi Htaung Su Yeik Thar Street, Ahlone Township Contact: 0949311122, 01 538943 Opens 9:30am - 9:30pm

Address: No. 61, Sayar San Road, Bahan Township Contact: 09 2522 21212 Opens 7am - 10pm

White Rice Restaurant This restaurant, situated by Kandawgyi Lake, serves tasty Chinese dishes in a simple atmosphere. Service is fast and professional and it can hold up to 300 guests and provides entertainment for those hosting big gatherings.

Address: Kandawgyi Royal Lake Park, Natmauk Lane Opposite of Eye Hospital, Bahan Township Contact: 01556837, 01556838 Opens 10am - 10pm

White Rice Restaurant

Paradise Dynasty Paradise Dynasty is set to delight guests with both its Northern and Southern Chinese cuisines, the signature Dynasty Xiao Long Bao comes in eight flavors and has been touted as the world-first piece of Chinese culinary art. In addition, shrimp dumplings, Lamai dishes and the desserts are worth tasting too.

Address: No.(2)&(3), Junction Square Extension, Between Pyay Road & Kyun Taw Road, Kamayut Township Contact: 09 979 313333 Opens 11am - 2:30pm, 6pm- 11pm Canton Paradise

Fook Mun Lau

Kou Fu MYANMORE magazine #28 February 2019

Paradise Dynasty

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Music

RANGOON RHYTHM:

GENERAL TIGER GUN Min Ye Kyaw meets Yangon’s latest indie band on the rise, General Tiger Gun

S

ince the indie music scene has begun flowing through the city, Yangonites have become no stranger to the sound of slicing guitar chords and quirky lyrics. General Tiger Gun (GTG) is a key player to this newfound sound and I caught up with with two of the four members — frontman Banyar Dwe, 25, and guitarist Jue Jue, 26.

Their story began in September 2012 when Jue Jue suggested the idea of forming a band with their bass guitarist Yarzar, 26. Jue Jue, a former member of the metal band Married for the Pain, and Yarzar, the former member of punk-rock band No U Turn, decided to celebrate their diverse

music taste in their new project, with the help of drummer CK, 26 and Banyar joined – and this new project was named General Tiger Gun. Being passionate about the guitar since Grade 9, Jue Jue was a fan of heavy metal rock music but decided that this new project wouldn’t be so easily defined. “With GTG, we don’t make music under a genre style, we create our independent music as independent artists,” he explains.

As a member of GTG, Jue Jue spoke about his feelings towards this new project compared to his old band.

He says he feels more integrated and committed as everyone is working

really hard for the band and creating musical arrangements. This focus allows GTG to compose songs about their lives and surrounding incidents, write the lyrics and ultimately perform on stage as unbound, independent artists.

“As the indie music scene in Yangon is now growing and we will have to welcome the new generation. This is about the music, not the competition so why not?” they both say. The band released 9’Night Indie Album in March 2018 and Lose Control EP on 12th Jan 2019.

As well as lighting lyrical fires at their resident JAM IT shows, the number of stages they’ve performed is about forty in five years which led Banyar to recall their first ever show in 2014 when he first joined the band and panicked in front of the audience as he was unfamiliar with the lyrics! “But it’s all good now,” he smiles.

Check out their music and activities on Facebook via generaltigergun. Also see their latest music video “Lose Control” on YouTube.

Photo by Si Thu Aung

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MYANMORE magazine #28 February 2019

Photo by Michael Stein

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Secret Recipe

BURMA BISTRO'S SECRET RECIPE: MOHINGA

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s many Myanmar families, we are gastronomes so our gatherings always revolve around food. May it be a large luncheon or an afternoon tea, there has to be food. My mother is from Myitkyina and my father from Bago region so there’s always an exchange of regional cuisines happening among relatives too. All the women (and some men) in our family are known to be amazing cooks!

cakes and fritters on their bowl of mohinga.

When I got married to my husband, whose family is from the Irrawaddy Delta, I was introduced to a whole new world of complex cooking methods and eating customs. Their region is known to be abundant with river fish and highest quality rice.

Mohinga is very special to Burmese people because most, if not all of us, basically grew up having it. In our case, we decided to have Pathein-style mohinga to honour my mother-in-law, to who this recipe belongs.

When we were toying with the idea of opening a restaurant, we decided to stick to what we know best: our diverse family recipes and the food I’ve learnt to cook from my travels along the Irrawaddy. Thus, all the dishes served at Burma Bistro are not commercial but dishes that are close to my heart.

They also have a very unique way of devouring mohinga. They use the freshest of river catfish to cook the broth and sprinkle some pe pyoke (traditional Burmese steamed peas) on top of other condiments like fish MYANMORE magazine #28 February 2019

Ingredients - 150g fresh rice noodle - 60g catfish - 30g lemongrass - 10g tumeric powder - 10g salt - 20g fish sauce - 50g chopped onion - 40g chopped garlic - 10g chili powder - 30g chopped ginger - 100ml cooking oil - 100g chickpea flour - 20g semolina powder Method Marinate the fish with some ginger, tumeric and salt. Boil the marinated fish with just enough water and add in fish sauce as well as chopped lemongrass for about 25 minutes.

When the fish is cooked enough, separate the meat and the bones.

Keep the fish stock that comes out of crushing the bones by adding it back into the broth.

Heat the large pan over high heat with cooking oil and add in chili powder, onion, garlic and ginger chops until fragrant. Fry the shredded fish for a few minutes before it turns dark. Then mix in the thickened chickpea flour and semolina powder with fish broth prepared earlier and let it simmer.

Upon reaching gentle boil, the flavours will start to come together. Taste the broth and adjust it to one’s liking with salt or fish sauce.

Boil the fresh rice noodle, strain the water and put it in a bowl with soup and top it up with fish cake, fritters and steamed peas to serve.

Available At Burma Bistro, No. 644, First Floor, Corner of Merchant Road and Shwe Bon Thar Road, Yangon, 11141 +959 401183838

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