MYANMORE Magazine - No.2/ Dec 2016

www.myanmore.com

Yangon, Mandalay & Beyond

No. 2 / Dec 2016 It’s free!

magazine

Snare and the Rap Master Nay Win more action, more news, more lifestyle

indepth

2

contents now

Cover Story

What’s on 4 Film 8 Christmas & New Year Promotions 10 Promotions 12 New Openings 14

Travel

briefings 16 cover story 18 Snare and the Rap Master Nay Win indepth

Streets of Yangon 22 13th Street Art & Culture 26 Preserving Myanmar's Culture Once Dance Step at a Time Travel 28 Gloriously Untamed: Dawei Travel 34 Beyond Bagan: Oriental Ballooning takes to the Skies of Mandalay Art & Culture 38 The Visual Poetry of Ko Lynn Zin Yaw Sustainable Enterprise 40 Pomelo Myanmar: Gifts that Grow

16

36

Arts & Culture

Sustainable Enterprise

edits/guides

In The Neighbouhood 44 Yaw Min Gyi Food Guide 46 Unusual Foods & Local Snacks Food Review 48, 52 The Marina (Yangon) Eighteen (Mandalay) Nightlife in Mandalay 52 Wellness 54 Budget to High-Brow Spas in Yangon

40

Myanmore Card Deals 57 Managing Director Andreas Sigurdsson Editor & Illustrator Ben Hopkins Creative Director Richie Chan

Cover Photo Nay Win Photographed By Gerhard Jörén www.gerhardjoren.com

Contributors Aung Pyae Bob Percival Charlie Michio Turner Dominic Horner Htun Lyn Zaw Jobnet.com.mm Martyn Brown Sondang Grace Sirait Susan Bailey

Photography Gerhard Jörén Jamie Stevenson Martyn Brown Shady Ramadan Art & Production Kyaw Kyaw Tun Hein Htet Publisher MYANMORE Magazine Pyit Thiri Thaw Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited 01588 Printer Myanmar Consolidated Media Ltd. Head Office: 379/383 Bo Aung Kyaw St., Kyauktada Tsp., Yangon, Myanmar Publisher No. 00876

42 Sales & Advertising sales@myanmore.com 0977 900 3701 / 3702

content and experiences for residents of Yangon to enjoy and explore.

About Myanmore Myanmore is a registered brand under Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited providing digital and print publishing as well as creative services.

Myanmore is managing the leading online city guide www. myanmore.com and the printed publications Weekly Guide, EnjoyIt, KnowIt and DRIVE. Recently, we have also launched digital platforms such as Myanmore and Sarmal (restaurants & bars in Myanmar) mobile apps. The mission is to provide great

Disclaimer No part of this publication can be reproduced or transmitted in any form without prior written permission from Myanmore. All details are deemed correct at the time of print.

The editor, employees and contributors cannot be held responsible for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions that may occur. www.myanmore.com www.facebook.com/ myanmore

MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016 / 3

now

What’s On

Yangon

Listings

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Bagan

Yangon

4-23 Dec

30 Dec - 4 Jan

10-15 Dec

Walks of Life Exhibition

Bagan Trade Show

Art 42, Hors Les Murs // Extramural

10 am - 6 pm

Art & Stage

Walks of Life exhibition aims to introduce the testimonies of lesbians, tomboys, gay, transgender women and men, queer ritual specialists as well as ones who do not fit into categories of men and women or into heterosexual relationships. It brings stories of more than 120 people in Myanmar from different religions, gender and sexual identities backgrounds.

THINK Art Gallery - No.23, Nawaday St, Dagon Tsp

9 am - 9 pm Business

‘The Bagan Trade Show’ is organized

by Ginn Garr Shwe Nadi Herbal product and will be held in Shwe Zi Gone Pagoda Compound.

Shwe Zi Gone Pagoda - Bagan

31 Dec

7.30 pm - 12.45 am

New Year’s Eve Party Activities

New Year Celebration & Buffet Dinner Party at Pool Side Garden in Bagan Thiripyitsaya Sanctuary Resort with entertainment and surprise gifts.

USD120 nett per person. RSVP via 01255333, 01255401.

Mandalay & Beyond

24-25 Dec 12 pm - 5 pm

Flower & Music Festival Concert

The biggest music festival in upper Myanmar with the biggest names in the music industry held during the Flower Festival at National Kandawgyi Gardens in Pyin Oo Lwin.

National Kandawgyi Gardens - Nandaw Rd, Pyin Oo Lwin

Bagan Thiripyitsaya Sanctuary Resort Bagan Archeological Zone, Old Bagan

Mandalay

21 Dec

11 am - 9 pm

Battle Mandalay Activities

6 pm - 10 pm

Art & Stage

ART 42 is the first (anti) urban art museum in Paris, France, which has opened in October this year. For the first time in Asia, Alisa Phommahaxay, one of the curator associates for Art42, invites eight French artists from this collection to show their work.

Come and discover the up and coming exciting French Urban Art Scene.

The Rough Cut - 19 Minn St, Sanchaung Tsp

16 Dec

6.30 pm - 9.30 pm

Masquerade Ball Nightlife

Held by the youth of Connect Institute, the ball is a pioneer project that will give the youth an opportunity they have never experienced before.

The students will put on talent shows as well as music and dance performances. There will be awards given to the Ball King & Queen, Best Dressed, Everyone’s BFF, and Swan of the Night | Ticket : 30,000-40,000 Ks | RSVP via 09420071971, 09779089378

BIM is a dance competition that will held in Mandalay. All dancers are welcome to join the competition which will promote the dance scene in Mandalay and encourage the young.

Sedona Hotel Yangon - 1,Kabaraye Pagoda Rd,Corner of Setmhu1 Rd,Yankin Tsp

Mingalar Mandalay - 73rd St, Bet Mingalar 2nd & 3rd St, Chanmyatarzi Tsp

Yangon Collective Winter Market

17 Dec

8 am - 12.30 pm

Shopping

A pop-up market of cool products for the cool season - brought to you by the Yangon Collective: connecting independent small business with the community. Stalls will feature fresh food and produce plus homewares and creative designs grown in, and inspired by, Myanmar.

4 / MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016

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What’s On

Yangon Bakehouse at Inya Road - 30 Inya Rd, Kamayut Tsp

19 Dec 8 pm

17 Dec

Pub Quiz

The First Jam 5th Year Anniversary

It’s Quiz Night & Mexican Monday at 50th Street! Come on down to test your brain power against the Yangon Dragon Rugby Club’s pub quiz while chowing down on some tasty Mexican food. Free Pitcher to round winner, drinking challenge, and 30,000 Ks Bar Tab to winning team!

11 am - 8 pm

Art & Stage

This year is going to be the fifth year anniversary of The First Jam which is presented by Myanmar Street Dance.

This time they will bring new ideas and competitors. The First Jam was the one of the biggest dance event in Myanmar with a lot of Hip Hop aspects.

Heldan Center - Pyay Road, Heldan Junction, Kamaryut Tsp

17 Dec 4.30 pm

DJ Run Festival Myanmar Art & Stage

The DJs will the play the hottest songs and jump with them in non-stop DJ Run Festival. Ticket: 18,000 Ks via 1876.

People’s Square and Park - Pyay Rd, Sanchaung Tsp

17-19 Dec 8.30 am - 5 pm

Model ASEAN Meeting Myanmar Business

Model ASEAN Meeting Myanmar is a simulation of the ASEAN Summit where the participants discuss through a series of discussions under 3 pillars of economic, socio-cultural and political security. The theme of this Model ASEAN event will be “Protection and Promotion of the rights of the Migrant Workers”.

Yangon Technological University - Insein Road, Gyokone, Insein Tsp

Nightlife

Yangon

8-18 Dec 6 pm - 7 pm

Unsung: The Kite Tales Activities

The Kite Tales highlight the voices of people who were silenced for decades. Inspiring, heartfelt and sometimes challenging, these stories are windows into the many perspectives that form modern Myanmar.

Myanmar Deitta - 3rd floor, No.49, 44th St, Bo Tahaung Tsp

50th Street cafe Restaurant and Bar - 9/13 50th Street, Botataung Tsp

21 Dec

7.30 pm - 9.30 pm

Trivia Night Nightlife

Challenge yourself with a quiz while enjoying 2 for 1 cocktails. The questions will span the range of human and inhuman interests and the winner will go home with 30,000 Ks! Secure your seats by messaging through Facebook or call 09 450218080.

Yangon

Father’s Office - 291 Bo Aung Kyaw St, Botahtaung Tsp

18 Dec

21 Dec

Pocari Sweat Run 2016

Davdenam - Soulful House

Pocari Sweat is bringing good news to its fans. Pocari Sweat would be splendidly held as the title is healthy running, Pocari Sweat would give fun moment like games and re-hydration programs. All sport lovers are cordially invited to be there. See you in Pocari Sweat Run Event on Dec 18th. Please register your attendence to MDG Office at 16E, East Course Road, Tamwe Township, Yangon.

10 am - 10 pm

Nightlife

Davedenam is at The Penthouse Friday! See you all there.

The Penthouse - 271-273, Bagaya Street, Sanchaung Tsp

5.30 am - 10.30 am Activities

Kyikekasan Stadium - East Course Rd, Tamwe Tsp

24 Dec 4 pm

White Culture Music Festival Concert

White Culture Music Festival is bringing the first ever Whitest Electronic

MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016 / 5

INNWA RD

MYO

AUNG MINGALAR BUS STATION

RD AIN .3 M NO

Defense Golf Club

D ROA MAIN NO.1

What’s On LOWER MINGALARDON RD

Listings

Stay Informed

Add or report a listing? Tell us!

09 779 003 701 / 702 sales@myanmore.com

Subscribe to our twice-a-week e-newsletter and keep yourself up to date! www.myanmore.com

N RD BAGA

RD GI AR IB WA

G City Golf Resort

MYO

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YANGON INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

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IN DU ST RIA LR D

MA SO EY EIN

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Junction 8

D NR LO PIN

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A Myanmar Deitta

8 Jan

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RD A TIK ZAW

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DA UN G

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LA Y

1 Jan

51ST ST

52ND ST

53RD ST

50TH ST

49TH ST

Botahtaung Pagoda

BO TA HTAUNG PAGODA RD

48TH ST

BO MYAT TUN ST

46TH ST

19 Dec

MERCHANT RD

44TH ST

BO GALAY ZAY ST

THElN BYU ST

Gamone Pwint Pansuriya

BO AUNG KYAW ST

ST

Police

39TH ST 40TH ST

PANSODAN ST

TO DALA

37TH ST 38TH ST

MAHA BANDOOLA RD

43RD ST

SECRETARIAT BUILDING

47TH ST

City Mart

54TH ST

Ocean Super Center

STRAND RD/ KAN NAR LAN

BOTAHTAUNG JETTY

PAT RD

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Sikh Temple

21 Dec

River Gallery 1&2

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THElN BYU ST

NG AU BO MIN Y

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Pansodan Art Gallery

35TH ST 36TH ST

Lokanat Art Gallery PANSODAN FERRY TERMINAL

AN YA RDA LA RD

TH UM AN A

BOGYOKE AUNG SAN RD St. Mary's Cathedral (Catholic)

SULE PAGODA

PAZU N DAUN G CR EEK

KYAIK KA SAN ST

UH TU NM YA T

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KUN CHAN RD

ANAWRAHTA RD

CITY HALL

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THAN TH UMA RR D

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CHO ST

SE

RD

55TH ST 56TH ST

A OD AG ALAN PYA P

SULE PAGODA RD

29TH ST 30TH ST

BO SON PAT ST

SHWE BON THA ST

D DA R AGO NG P KAU MOE

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YANKIN RD NG UM BO G USE YOKE M

ST

NG AR H TAT

UPPER PANSODAN RD

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ST

BO

25TH ST 26TH ST

KON ZAY DAN ST

21ST ST 22ND ST

23RD ST 24TH ST

Bengali Sunne Jameh (Mosque)

RD

7 ZA Y ST

Market

MYA YAR GONE

City Mart

Yangon Central Railway Station

Police

RD

MYANMA GON YE ST

Myanmar Ink Art Gallery

Musmeah Yeshua Synagogue

YANGON RIVER

RD A AL DMingalar

City Mart

MAHABANDOOLA GARDEN RD

Kheng Hock Keong (Chinese Temple)

Theingyi Market

AR NY BA ST

Yuzana Plaza

ZIN GA MA

TH AD AR YO NR D

SHU KHIN THA

ROA D

SAYA S AN

ST GARDEN AL GLC OLO ZO

A RD GOD N PA DAGO SHWE

AU GY

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RD NT NYU YAR

RD RA IZA ST UW NG

LA THA ST

17TH ST 18TH ST

SlNT OO DAN ST 19TH ST

13TH ST 14TH ST

15TH ST 16TH ST

PHONE GYI ST

SHWE TAUNG TAN ST

Police

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Parkson's Dpt Store FMI

CHINA TOWN

LAN MA LAN MADAW DAW ST ST

11TH ST 12TH ST

9TH ST 10TH ST

LAN THIT ST

HLEDAN ST

7TH ST 8TH ST

5TH ST 6TH ST

WAR TAN ST

BOGYOKE MARKET

KARAWEIK PALACE RESTAURANT

THEIN BYU SPORT GROUND

DAW THElN TlN

CR

KH AIN G

KANDAWGYI NATURE PARK

AUNG SAN STADIUM

ST DAY WA T NA IS GY MIN W YA Nawaday Thalar Art Gallery

Cathedral of Holy Trinity (Anglican) Yangon General Hospital Sri Kali (Hindu Temple)

BO YWE ST

AUNG YA DANR ST 1ST ST 2ND ST 3RD ST 4TH ST

KAING DAN ST

City Mart

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T GS UN KA

British Club

Think Gallery

YMCA

City Mart Fitness Express

WAR TAN JETTY

New Zero Art Space

Gallery 65

BOGYOKE AUNG SAN RD

Junction Mawtin

T AS TR

NATIONAL THEATER

20TH ST

ST

1 Jan

N PA

Shangri-La Residence

K MOE YEI

Police

KA NY EIK THAR RD

31 Dec

IN M

27TH ST 28TH ST

UMFCCI

THA KHIN MYA PARK

CHIN RD KO

OLD YAY TAR SHAY ST

RD RA IZA UW

Sein Gay Har

MIN YE KYAW SWA RD

G AR DE N

TH A

A

ZAGAWAR ST

Taw Win Center

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M YA

NE GO SI

KH IN

KY EE IN HN

ST MAN

TA THAN

MYO MA KYAUNG RD

ST PIN AY AY KH

ST

NATIONAL MUSEUM RD MAR PADO

YE MIN

RD AR NN KA NG AI ND YI M

IT TH

W TA

Central Women's Hospital

Trish Gallery

RD WIN TAW

A SW AW KY

R WE LO

RD

YIN IM KY

RD THA YEIK

SHWE DAGON PAGODA RD

RD ING DA

Yangon Children Hospital

RI ST W HA MA NA

G SU DAUN PYI

31 Dec

ZOOLOGICAL GARDEN

AYER WUN MAIN

ST

31 Dec

BOGYOKE PARK

FISH AND TURTLE LAKE

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NE RD AHLO

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IN

KANDAWGYI LAKE

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NG BO U HTAU

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BOGYOKE AUNG SAN MUSEUM

G A

ST UK MA

NAT MAUK RD

KANDAWGYI PARK

31 Dec

THAMAIN BAYAN RD

AT GYI PAGO HT DA T S

Bahan Women Hospital

41ST ST 42ND ST

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KAB AR AYE PAGODA RD

THAN LWIN RD

INYA MYAING ST

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CHIN DWIN

RD PYAY

17 Dec

EAST HORSE RACE COU RS E

KABAR AYE PAGODA RD

INYA RD

ST TONE THA H

RD KYUN TAW UPPER KYEE MYIN DAING RD

RD BAHO

Yangon Art Gallery A

>> 21 Dec

Ocean Super Center

O PH

31 Dec

ST TAWYA GYAR

BAHAN ST 1 BAHAN ST 2 BAHAN ST 3

SHWE DAGON PAGODA

W

Goethe Institute

KO M IN

PEOPLE'S PARK AND PEOPLE'S SQUARE

NI ST

KYAIKKASAN GROUNDS

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MYANMAR CULTURE VALLEY

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Asia Royal Hospital

Sakura Hospital

AR RZ A

ST KABAR IN

IN SH

The Avenue

Police

RD

AR

GYI PAG ODA ST

KABAR ST IN

City Mart

PU

City Mart

RD YAR

Super One

Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda (Reclining Buddha) ING RD N TA E GO SHW

W

KHATTAR ST

W SA

RD

THA NA YEIKTHA ST

Marchetti Furniture

WE GON D SH AIN G RD

Police

RD

Real FitnessHASI THA

DHAMMAZEDI RD

BARGAYAR RD

SAN CHAUNG ST

KOKKINE SWIMMING CLUB

E AN BL CLU ING WIMM ING S KOKKA

Monument Book Store

Dagon Gamone Center Pwint

10 Dec

RD

Market Place

RD

G UN MA

LI WE SH

UNIO NL

Pearl Condo

Pro Mart

Australian Club

R NA DA YA

31 Dec

Yankin Center RD AN AS SAY

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Pandora

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Patrick Robert A Gallery

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Golden Valley A Art Center

INYA

Sakura Residence 1&2

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Swiss Time Square

A New Treasure Art Gallery

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New Year’s Eve Buffet Dinner for 2017 at M+ Thai Express Restaurant on 31st December 2016. You can buy a ticket by calling 09965110990 for your reservation.

Bin 64 Wine Shop

GYI ST

AR PAN W

Institut MA KYEE KYEE ST Francais

6 pm - 10.30 pm

Dining

ZAW

Hanthawaddy Roundabout

RD SHIN YAN

ANE

Junction Square

16 Dec

IN DU ST RIA L

NEW U NIVERS ITY AVEN UE

A Gallery

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NO .1

Myanmar Plaza

Inya Art

TAW RD

HA NT HA WA DD YR D

31 Dec

New Year Eve Buffet Dinner

Balance Fitness

THAR ST

T NAR NA

The Penthouse - 271-273 Bargayar St, Park Side One Building, 8th floor, Myayngone, Sanchaung Tsp

UNI VER SITY AVEN UE RD

LAR ST GA N

RD PYAY

EIK PYI Y

AUNG SAN SU KYI HOUSE

SHWE TAUN G

I MI THIR

17 Dec

RD

INYA MYAING RD

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Nightlife

UNIVERSITY A VENUE

Sein Gay Har

RD

NA THA THU DAT

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Hledan Market

MYA KYUN THAR

THAYAWADDY LA NE

G AIN HL

Yangon University

R ST LA AR M

AN ED

RIV ER

Beik Thano Gallery A

Yangon Sailing Club

17 Dec

PUN HLAING HOSPITAL

D ER NB KA

Aqua Inya Golf Driving Range

R SA

ST EAST HORSE RACE COURSE

INYA LAKE

KABAR AYE

KAN ST

PAGODA RD

PYAY RD

RD INSEIN YANGON

HLAING THAR YAR HIGHWAY BUS STATION

YAR ZA DlRlT ST

RD

KANBE STATION RD

A TH

SANDA KOO ST

International SOS Clinic N HI

IT TH

RD

O AS AM BY

ST

57TH ST

ST

45TH ST

) WAR RD SHWE (KHAING BAHO RD

NY EI N

KAN YEIK THAR

Myanmar Yachting Federation

The Penthouse is hosting a NYE party and Jean Marc Lemmery is designing a 5 course menu for 45,000 Ks (++). The Penthouse has even flown in the amazing DJ Eddie Sakka from Paris to party all night long !! RSVP via 09771239924.

RD

RD

LAR ST MAR

HL AIN G

AR M

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G UN YA IK G

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STATION RD

PU N

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Parami Hospital

American Club U

W YA

GEMS MUSEUM

RD

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U TH

A KH

HLAING CAMPUS

MICT PARK

Gamone Pwint

Kabar Aye Pagoda

PA RA MI

AN TH

TO FMI CITY / PUN HLAING ESTATE

E G ID BR MI RA PA

Okkala Golf Course

BO TA HTAUNG ZAY ST

PYI THU T S

ZA WAI

Nordic Diplomatic Office

PARAM I RD

AN AW MA RR D

TO VICTORIA HOSPITAL (3 KM)

TO YANGON INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (5 KM)

AY M

The ONE Entertainment Park - Paw San Hmwe St, Thuwana, Thingakyun Tsp

PAGODA RD

RD

Thiri Mingalar Market

RD EE HT WE SH

RD DA GO PA

A RD AGOD AYE P KABA

ONE TARY INE BU THAM

K AI KY

RD

T IK S SE ON KP OA

PYAY RD

INSPIRE Media & Entertainment proudly present the AVA NYE 2017 Festival. World renowned DJ Martin Garrix is headlining and Jay Hardway, Justin Mylo & more are coming to count down the New Year with Yangon people. Early birds tickets are on sale now for 35,000 Ks via 092046090.

RD AR SW

IRIT AD RZ YA

D AR AR IS UW

RD AY PY

D MA R DHA MIN

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Concert

E IN W

AW KY YE

PIN TA

SI ST SHWE HNIN

33RD ST 34TH ST

RD

A

MIN

31ST ST 32ND ST

NG AU TN YIN BA

D NR WI

17 Dec

AVA NYE 2017 Festival

6 / MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016

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RD

Golf Driving Range

YANGON TECHNOLOGICAL UNIVERSITY

6 pm - 12.30 am

New Year’s Eve Party

E

G Myanmar Golf Club

W TA

31 Dec

6 pm - 3 am

AR M DA

G

10 Mile Market

D RR IVE GR AIN HL

31 Dec

MO

RD

R LA

PYAY RD

The ONE Entertainment Park - Paw San Hmwe St, Thuwana, Thingankyun Tsp

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DA

YANGON AI R

RD

PY AY

E ON RY TA BU EIN INS

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U TH

SAW BWAR GYI GONE BUS STATION

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NG

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Yangon

Dance Music to Yangon with Headliners Quintino, Mightyfools, LnyTnz, Lit Lords and supporting artists as Terror Bass, Bang Bang Bang World, Dj Zara Gift and Mc.Master Mind from Thailand. Earlybird tickets are 20,000 Kyats via 09970140004.

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DA MA RR D

PYAY RD

RD PAT

THIRI MINGALAR RD

SEIK KAN THA

now

RD PAT DAW

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What’s On

Thai Express Restaurant - BBQ & Hot Pot 134 Aung Zaya Rd, Yankin Tsp

Rose Garden Hotel Yangon - 171 Upper Pansodan Rd, Mingalar Taung Nyunt Tsp

31 Dec

31 Dec

28-30 Dec

Chatrium’s New Year’s Eve Party 2016

FAB 47 - Club Night for Gays, Lesbians & Friends

Kayin New Year Celebrations

7 pm - 11.59 pm

Nightlife

International Buffet Dinner with free flow of Wine, Beer and Soft Drinks while Chit Kaung, Si Thu Lwin, Chan Chan, Eaint Chit are performing Live with Immortal Band. Ticket Price: Platinum Class USD160, Gold Class USD140 and New Year Night Room Packages are USD400 per package with One Night Deluxe Accommodation Plus Party Tickets for 2 persons on 31st December. Early Bird Offer available. RSVP via 01544500 Ext 6612.

Chatrium Hotel Royal Lake Yangon - 40 Natmauk Rd, Tamwe Tsp

31 Dec 7 pm - 1 am

New Year’s Eve Dinner Party Dining

Welcome in 2017 at Esperado Rooftop Bar & Restaurant with amazing views of Yangon. Live music and dance from the Academy Dance Group will add to the excitement as you begin the coutdown. Tickets via 09977755600, 09977853773.

Esperado Rooftop Bar & Restaurant - 23, Kan Yeik Thar Rd, Mingalar Taung Nyunt Tsp

31 Dec 8 pm - 3 am

New Year’s Eve Party Activities

A sumptuous Gala Buffet with sparkling and live entertainment, music and a traditional performance.

Earlybird discounts and VIP packages available via 01371992, 09 264106805.

10 pm - 3 am

Nightlife

The fastest way to lose your Christmas kilograms. More details @ https:// www.facebook.com/EventsYG.

Mandalay & Beyond

All Day

Activities

Combine the festivities of the Kayin New Year with a soft adventure getaway to Hpa An, a private boat down the Salween River and not to forget the dancing and boxing performances | USD 420 | RSVP via 09263459211 Kayin State - Kayin State

J-one Music Bar - Bo Cho St, near Japanese Embassy, Bahan Tsp

2017 1 Jan 9 pm

Salsa Night at Union Bar and Grill Nightlife

Join Grammy Nominated DJ Henry Knowles at Union Bar and Grill For A Night Of Dancing on from 9:00 PM. There will be prizes for the best dressed lady & gentleman as well as promotions on drinks all night.

Union Bar and Grill - 42 Strand Rd, Botahtaung Tsp

8 Jan

7.30 pm - 1.30 am

Yangon

2-4 Jan 9 am - 5 pm

Yangon Discount Fair Activities

The biggest discount fair in Yangon is coming.

Don't miss out.

Tatmadaw Hall - U Wisara Rd, Dagon Tsp

Cat Face Tea Party 2017 Nightlife

Cat Face 4th Year Tea Party & Fundraiser with Sai’s House Party crew from London. All proceeds will go to selected charities across the country.

Tickets 7000 Ks with One Free Drink On Arrival.

The VIBE - 31A Kan Yeit Thar St, Bahan Tsp

MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016 / 7

now

Film

Show Times Check up on our weekly guide available at newsstands, restaurants, cafes, bars and other establishments. Or log on to www.myanmore.com

Book Cinema Tickets Online!

Now Showing

02

Now Showing

Now Showing

Now Showing

Office Christmas Party 01 Comedy An American Christmas comedy film.

Dear Zindagi 02 Drama An Indian coming of age drama film with a plot centered on a budding cinematographer named Kaira, who is in search of a perfect life and meets Dr. Jehangir, an unconventional thinker.

He helps Kaira in gaining a new perspective about life.

Moana 03 Animation An American 3D computer-animated musical fantasy adventure film produced by Walt Disney Animation Studios, that tells the story of Moana, the strong-willed daughter of the chief of a Polynesian tribe, who is chosen by the ocean itself to reunite a mystical relic with a goddess. When a blight strikes her island, Moana sets sail in search of Maui, a legendary demigod, in the hope of saving her people.

8 / MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016

01

03

Film

now

Coming Soon

05

Fantastic Beasts Fantasy The adventures of writer Newt Scamander in New York’s secret community of witches and wizards seventy years before Harry Potter reads his book in school.

May Htone Yar Thi Phwar (Burmese Movie) 04 Drama The film follows a love story between two men who had faced difficulties in their life after one had been forced into an arranged marriage. The film was the first LGBT film in cinema of Myanmar and openly railed against the Burmese homosexuality laws.

Min lal Bo-K ngar lal Bo-K (Burmese Movie) Drama Two rich families and their sons rival one another to win the heart of the teacher who came to their village.

Nha Yout Ta Bawa (Burmese Movie) 06 Drama Directed by Ko Zaw with cast by Nay Min, Kaung Pyae, Khine Thin Kyi and Phyo Yee Myo.

Now Showing

Coming Soon Professor Doctor Sait Phywar 2 (Burmese Movie) Action The second installment directed by Khin Saw Myo, features famous actor Kyaw Thu. Rogue One: A Star Wars Story 05 Sci-Fi Star Wars fans should never miss this: this installment brings together ordinary people who choose to do extraordinary things and in doing so, become part of something greater than themselves.

Mega Ace Mingalar Cinemas JCGV

06

Now Showing

04

MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016 / 9

now

Christmas & New Year Promotions 24 Dec

Esperado Rooftop Bar & Restaurant

Christmas Eve Dinner Buffet 7 pm - 10 pm Festive Dining Enjoy a breathtaking view of Yangon over a sumptuous buffet dinner with a variety of choices and wine pairing. Joined by the Messager Music Band and carol singers.

USD 30 nett per person. Gifts for everyone!

RSVP via 09977755600, 09977853773.

Esperado Rooftop Bar & Restaurant 23 Kan Yeik Thar Rd, Mingalar Taung Nyunt Tsp

24 Dec

Tapas Bistro, MiCasa Hotel Apartments Christmas Eve Dinner Buffet 6 pm - 10 pm Festive ining

24 Dec

Rose Garden Hotel

Christmas Eve Dinner Buffet Festive Dining A Delicious Christmas Eve Dinner awaits you at The Rose Garden Hotel.

Celebrate the festive season! Gather your family and friends and join us on Christmas Eve. Tapas featured Christmas special buffet with live band entertainment, children's corner, party pack, magic show and lucky draw. USD 50 for adults, USD 30 for children under 12. Free flow of beer and mocktail.

17, Kabar Aye Pagoda Road, Mayangone Tsp, 01650933 bc.micasa@mptmail.net.mm www.myanmar.micasahotel.com

Come and celebrate Christmas Eve with a delicious culinary affair including welcome cocktail, free flow of draught beer, house wine and soft drinks while enjoying the night. US$60 net per person!

(Children below 12 years old at half price and below 4 years will be free of charge.)

For reservations and more inquiry, please contact us at 01-371992, 09-264106805 or info@theroseyangon.com 171, Upper Pansodan Road, Yangon, Myanmar

24 25 Dec Dec

The Market, Meliá Yangon Christmas Eve Dinner & Christmas Lunch Festive Dining

Dine on Christmas Eve for only USD 70 per person. Early booking until 17 Dec entitles you to a special deal of USD 60.

On Christmas Day, enjoy lunch for USD 52 per person. Early booking until 17 Dec entitles you to a special deal of USD 45.

For kids, 0-5 years old – Free of charge 6-11 years old – 50% off 192, Kabar Aye Pagoda Road, Yankin Tsp 0919345002

25 Dec

24 25 Dec Dec

Pirate Restaurant, Vintage Luxury Yacht Hotel

Cafe Sule, Sule Shangri-La

Make a date with us on Christmas Day for brunch at 25,000 Ks per person (inclusive of soft drinks). Menu includes international starters, soups, salads, mains, siders and desserts. Join by a music band for an afternoon of entertainment.

Celebrate Christmas with your family at Sule Shangri-La! Enjoy an international buffet, free flow of sparkling wine, beer and soft drinks along with a Christmas choir. Be ready for a full belly and a happy heart at Cafe Sule.

Eve Dinner - USD 55 nett X'mas Brunch - USD 50 nett X'mas Dinner - USD 55 nett

Christmas Brunch 12 pm - 4 pm Festive Dining

For details - 09 254443326, 09 459949996, 01 9010532 - 35 6, Botahtaung Jetty, Near Botahtaung Pagoda, Seikkan Tsp

Christmas Eve Dinner 6.30 pm - 10 pm Christmas Brunch 12 pm - 3 pm Christmas Day Dinner 6.30 pm - 10 pm Festive Dining

For reservations, email to restaurantreservations.ssyn@shangri-la. com; call (01) 242828 Ext. 6421, 6422 223, Sule Pagoda Road, Kyauktada Tsp.

10 / MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016

now

Christmas & New Year Promotions 24 Dec

Club Rizzoli, Chatrium Hotel

Savoy Hotel

L'Opera

Enjoy a Christmas Gala Dinner around the pool. USD 120.- per person

Santa Claus will be arriving from the lake. He usually arrives around 8.30 pm, or 8.35 pm if he meets traffic on the lake. Go catch him.

Christmas Eve Dinner Christmas Dinner Festive Dining

Christmas Eve Party 9 pm - 11 pm Nightlife

Special promotion on Kirin Draught Beer “Buy 1 Get 1� chance. Enjoy partying with your precious ones on Christmas Eve. RSVP via 01544500.

RSVP to 01544500 Ext. 6612.

Chatrium Hotel Royal Lake Yangon - 40 Natmauk Rd, Tamwe Tsp.

24 Dec

24 25 Dec Dec

Christmas Eve Dinner 7 pm - 10 pm Festive Dining

Kipling's Restaurant

62D, U Htun Nyein St.

Christmas Day Set Menu

Want some more? Then come back on Christmas Day for a four course Christmas Menu available for lunch or dinner. USD 60.per person.

Requests, rates and bookings: Tel: (+95) 1 526289, 526298, 526305 129, Dhammazedi Road www.savoy-myanmar.com

31 Dec

Chatrium Hotel

New Year's Eve Party 2016 7 pm - 11.59 pm Festive Dining & Activities Dine in on our international buffet dinner with free flow of wine, beer and soft drinks, while Chit Kaung, Si Thu Lwin, Chan Chan, Eaint Chit perform live with Immortal Band. Tickets: Platinum Class at USD 160, Gold Class at USD 140, and New Year Night Room Packages are USD 400 per package with one night deluxe accommodation plus party tickets for 2 persons on 31st Dec. Early bird offers available.

RSVP to 01544500 Ext. 6612.

Chatrium Hotel Royal Lake Yangon - 40 Natmauk Rd, Tamwe Tsp.

31 Dec

Vintage Luxury Yacht Hotel (Open Air) Vintage Countdown Party 2017 6.30 pm - 12.30 am Activities

Usher in the new year with us, joined by entertainers J Maung Maung, Kaw Ni, Zaw Paing, J-Me, G-Tone, Kyek Pha, Ah Moon, Fusion Dance Troupe, Hyrax Dance Crew, Presenter Khin Hlaing & Chit Su. A lucky draw awaits!

For details - (+959) 459949991, 459949993, 459949994, (+951)9010532 - 35 6, Botahtaung Jetty, Near Botahtaung Pagoda, Seikkan Tsp

24 25 31 Dec Dec Dec

Le Cellier, Novotel

Christmas Eve Dinner 6 pm - 10.30 pm Christmas Lunch 12 pm - 2.30 pm Savour the passions of France with a 5 course set menu with Chef's signature creations for a charming intimate evening.

USD 66++ per person with a glass of bubbly.

New Year's Eve Dinner 7 pm - 1 am Festive Dining French Chef Brice CARO takes you on a culinary journey to 2017. Bubbles & DJ Bay Tar beats on the terrace for the countdown.

USD 86++ per person with a glass of bubbly.

Wine pairing options available.

For details - 09251185973 Rooftop (14th Floor), Novotel - 459, Pyay Road, Kamayut Tsp.

MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016 / 11

now

Promotions

December DISCOUNT!

9FFE DUTCH DELI | ESPRESSOBAR

FRAP/ICE- COFFEE Buy SMALL.....Get LARGE 9FFE FMI-Centre

No.380 Bogyoke Aung San Rd. Pabedan Township, Yangon Tel. 09-250001392

www.facebook.com/BarBoonMyanmar

Yangon

Happy Hour 50% Off Mon - Fri, 6 - 8 pm

Join 50th Street every day of the week to enjoy their new Happy Hour special!

Monday to Friday – 50% off at 50th Street from 6-8 pm. Draught Beer, House Wine, House Cocktails, House Spirits, 50th Street Specials & Shots!

Yangon Yangon Rooftop Bar - 339, Sakura Tower, corner of Bo Gyoke Aung San Rd & Sule Pagoda Rd, Pabedan Tsp

50th Street cafe Restaurant and Bar - 9/13 50th St, Botahtaung Tsp

9 pm

Daily Happy Hour at Summit Parkview

Wine Wednesdays

One for one draught beer, wine & standard pouring brand. All cocktails at 50% off all night . Live Music at 8:30pm onwards on Friday and Saturday.

Every Wednesday, BUY One GET One FREE on house wine by the glass all night.

Summit Parkview hotel - Ahlone Rd, Ahlone Tsp

Every Wednesday

Parami Pizza I - Corner of Malikha Rd & Parami Rd, 7th Quarter, Mayangone Tsp Parami Pizza II - 001 Building A, Shwe Gone Plaza, Ground Floor, Shwe Gone Daing Rd, Bahan Tsp Parami Pizza III - 56C, Sayarsan Rd, Bahan Tsp

Ladies Night at Yangon Yangon

Every Wednesday, 8 pm - 11.30 pm DJ MR.Y at 8pm with Hip Hop, Rnb, House, etc. Free cocktails for ladies at 12 / MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016

7pm. 50% Off on Frozen cocktails. 20% Off on Sparkling Wine. HAPPY HOUR 5pm – 7pm. Bucket Beers Deal (Buy4 get 2).

Mad for it Monday 7 pm

Heineken 15,00/25,00 Ks, Jack Daniels & Coke 45,00 Kyats, Heineken & Jack Daniels Chaser 65,00 Ks, SuperSonic Gin & Tonic 45,00 Ks, Chapagne (prosecco) Super Nova 55,00 Ks. Union Bar and Grill - 42 the Strand, Left side of the Myanmar Red Cross Building

New Openings

now

Celebrate a New Year and a New Era with The Strand Yangon This December, The Strand Yangon will celebrate the New Year, and a new era, as Myanmar’s most luxurious heritage hotel marks the festive season and its recent reopening with a series of special dinners and events. Our Executive Chef Christian Martena welcomes the opportunity to share his culinary skills with the discerning diner, and his innovative flair of blending modern Mediterranean cooking with a modern twist is reflected in his menus at The Strand Restaurant.

A festive season program will also be on offer at The Strand Cafe and Sarkies Bar at The Strand Hotel

For further information and reservations at The Strand Restaurant, please contact strandrestaurant@hotelthestrand.com or by phone at (+95) 1 243377 WWW.HOTELTHESTRAND.COM

now new openings

01

Yangon

Chilli Pot

10 am - 10 pm Chinese / Hot Pot Enjoy authentic and spicy Chinese Hot Pots full of steaming beef, seafood, vegetables and more.

23 Nawaday Street, Dagon Township 01 1223874

Cellar Door Wine Bistro 02

11 am - 11 pm Bistro

Cellar Door's high quality produce includes cured meat and cheese platters, raclette, seafood, soups and salad dishes. There's balcony seating and #15, 1st Floor, Marketplace, No. 69, Pyay Road, 11 Ward, Hlaing Township 01525403, 526818, 654512 Ex. 201

Little Korea BBQ 4 pm - 11 pm Korean / Buffet

All you can eat Korean Style BBQ restaurant in a spacious family friendly setting - a meat lover’s paradise.

03

95H Wai Za Yan Tar Road, South Oakalapa Township 09 772 903242 13,800 Kyats per person

The Toddy Bar 10 am - 10 pm Myanmar / Bar

14 / MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016

The Toddy Bar is a throwback to a by-gone era of sophisticated Burmese cocktails. Low ceilings and a shady interior create an intimate setting.

Ground Floor (mezzanine level), 77-79 Pansodan Rd, Kyauktada Township 09 517 8329

Sawadee Thai Food 9 am - 9 pm Thai

A beautifully decorated Thai food restaurant at Dagon Centre II Shopping Mall. Thai favourites such as somtam, tom yum, BBQ and seafood are available.

5th floor, Dagon Centre II Shoppng Mall, Pyay Road, Myaynigone, Sanchung Township 09 785 086507

369 Dine & Bar 9 am - 1 am European / Bar

Located on the 8th floor rooftop of Ibis Styles Yangon Stadium, 369 Restaurant and Bar promotes itself as a European influenced lifestyle place in the sky and an iconic landmark for the city.

369 Lay Daungkan Road, ibis Styles Yangon, Thingankyun Township 01 578 101

Esperado Rooftop Bar & Restaurant 6.30 am - 10.30 pm European / Bar

now new openings Inside and outside areas with great views of Kandawgyi Lake and Shwedegon Pagoda. Breakfast buffets, Sunday Bruch and evening meals with cocktails are all available.

23, 9th floor, Esperado Hotel, Kan Yeik Thar Road, Mingalar Taung Nyunt Township 09 977 853715 info@hotelesperado.com http://www.hotelesperado.com

Seafood Paragon 02 11 am - 10 pm Thai / Seafood

Specializing in Thai seafood dishes.

7A Maegin Street, Yankin Township 09 798 668445 04

Cafe Burma 03 8 am - 6 pm Myanmar / Cafes

The coffee is 100 percent Myanmar Arabica Coffee and the choices include Cinnamon Roast Coffee Beans.

53, Strand Road, Strand Square, Kyauktada Township 09 778 442441

Mr. Wok Myanmar

01

9 am - 9 pm Asian / Noodles

Asian fried noodle with seafood, pork or chicken are available here.

Ga-14, Ground Floor, Pearl Condo (Building C), Kaba Aye Pagoda Road, Bahan Township 09 779 933835 info@mrwokmyanmar.com

05

Rachel’s 04

24 hr Myanmar / Fine Dining Iconic modern Myanmar cuisine is available here.

Kandawgyi Palace Hotel, Kan Yeik Tha Road, Mingalar Taung Nyunt Township 01 249 255 http://www.kandawgyipalace-hotel.com

Pizza Hut @ Marketplace 6.5 Mile 05 06

10 am - 10 pm European / Pizza

Pizza Hut has arrived in Myanmar with their signature Pan Crust and tasty pizza, fresh from the oven. And they just launched a new outlet at 6.5 Mile, Pyay Road, Marketplace by Citymart.

First Floor, Marketplace by Citymart, 6.5 Mile, Pyay Road, Kamayut Township 09 969 702312 http://www.pizzahut.com

The Envoy Restaurant & Bar 5 pm - 1 am European / Bar

Stylish and European, The Envoy occupies a leafy balcony and crosses the line between a chill out night under the stars and fine dining.

8 Bo Aung Kyaw Street (Lower Block), Botahtaung Township 01 380 284 zayar@envoyyangon.com

Mandalay

Central Park 11 am - 11.30 pm Mexican / Bar

Popular expat hangout with good pizza, Mexican food and cocktails.

Eclectic decor with friendly staff.

27th Street between 65th & 66th, Mandalay 09 910 13500 wilbursprite@gmail.com

Central Park’s Pizza 06 11 am - 11.30 pm Western / Pizza

Homemade pizzas, Italian pastas and other western dishes. European-style décor with a short wine list and espresso-based drinks. Delivery available.

Corner of 66th & 32nd Streets, Mandalay 09 310 11188 wilbursprite@gmail.com

briefings

Yangon

Myanmar

Getting to know Yangon

Finance

New illustrated map created for VISA

Demand for electronic payments is on the rise in Myanmar

Myanmore

Myanmore

Visa Myanmar and Myanmore media house team up to produce “Yangon Map”, a pocket-sized map of Myanmar’s metropolis that includes a suggested 24-hour itinerary in the city. The map has been designed with cartoon illustrations to make it super easy for visitors to enjoy their stay.

“We’re excited about how it turned out and are confident it will be a useful resource for Yangon’s visitors,” says Myanmore’s artistic director Richie Chan.

Embassies are clearly marked with national flags so visitors can spend less time looking up addresses and more time enjoying their holiday.

The map includes over 60 hand drawn illustrations depicting principal places of interest such as iconic buildings and fun activities. It also identifies restaurants, hotels and establishments that accept Visa cards, as well as ATM machines throughout the capital.

Arturo Planell, Visa country manager, Myanmar: “Yangon is a beautiful and exciting city but can be difficult to navigate even for seasoned travellers. This illustrated map of Yangon will help visitors enjoy the best experiences Yangon has to offer.”

Visitors can follow in the footsteps of renowned figures of bygone years through the city’s historic attractions, find unique dishes in friendly restaurants, visit unforgettable landmarks for memorable photographs, engage in fun activities, and delve into the Yagonite’s favourite shopping areas.

Yangon Map has been released just as the monsoon season ends and the high tourism season begins. Packed with information for dry season travellers, the complimentary map is available from hotels, restaurants, bars and shops around Yangon.

Demand for electronic payments is on the rise in Myanmar, according to global payments technology company Visa, who has seen high double-digit year-on-year growth in the value of transactions made

by Myanmar cardholders on its international-use only prepaid cards.

The value of transactions made by Myanmar cardholders while travelling overseas grew by 54 per cent. Meanwhile, the value of eCommerce transactions made on

“The demand for electronic payments from both Myanmar people and international tourists is strong. Myanmar’s fast growing economy can benefit from expanding access to electronic payments, particularly when it comes to enabling more people to pay and get paid electronically,” said Arturo Planell, Visa Country Manager, Myanmar.

Myanmar Travel

Myanmar gears up for more Singaporean visitors Sondang Grace Sirait

Visa free travel between Singapore and Myanmar

stated on a press release made public by Myanmar Tourism Marketing.

Singaporeans traveling to Myanmar no longer need to apply for visa, thanks to the onset of the 30-day visa exemption, which began on December 1 and applies to citizens of both countries. The same policy also guarantees visa-free travels for Myanmar citizens entering Singapore for under 30 days, either for business or leisure. The visa exemption between the two countries was first announced in June 2016 during the visit of Singapore Prime Minister Lee Hsien Loong to Myanmar.

With renewed optimism, efforts are now underway to realize the goals. Coinciding with the visit of State Counselor Daw Aung San Suu Kyi to Singapore this week, Myanmar Tourism Marketing (MTM), a part of the Myanmar Tourism Federation, is hosting a roadshow in the island nation, where some 50 Myanmar and Singapore hospitality and travel companies meet for high-level business matching. The event will be followed up with the first Myanmar Tourism Festival, to be held next month in Singapore.

With that, expectations now abound for faster growth trajectory in the tourism industry. “I do expect a 35 percent increase of Singaporeans travelling to Myanmar if we successfully promote the variety of tourist attractions the country has to offer.

Myanmar is safe, excellent to travel the whole year round, and Myanmar food is certainly something to come back for over and over again,” says Myanmar Minister of Hotel & Tourism H.E. Mr U Ohn Maung, as

16 / MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016

international websites grew by 108 per cent, mostly from sales of air tickets and accommodation.

“We have witnessed a surge of Singaporean travelers and look forward to this growing. We’re on a mission to show the world what this hidden gem called Myanmar has to offer; and in doing so, we’d like to dispel some myths about the country. It’s not true that you can only visit Myanmar during the dry season. In fact, Myanmar’s best kept secret is the green season from June till September,” says MTM Chairperson May Myat Mon Win.

briefings

Myanmar

Yangon

Culture

Urban Planning

Jobnet.com.mm survey: Myanmar's people daily coffee habits

Yangon's new night market

Jobnet.com.mm

Now into its second month, Yangon’s first night market managed and arranged by the government has transformed street dining downtown.

1 OUT OF 3 SPILLED COFFEE ON THEIR COMPUTERS!

1.98 58% 42%

COFFEE CUPS PER DAY ON CAN GET THROUGH CANNOT GET THROUGH WORKDAY WITHOUT COFFEE AVERAGE WORKDAY WITHOUT COFFEE

myanmar's coffee survey BRAND PREFERENCES

52.3% PREMIUM

27.3% NESCAFE

The survey revealed the role that coffee plays in a Myanmar person’s working life, as well as the dynamics of coffee within a working environment in Myanmar. On average, a Myanmar professional drinks 1.98 cups of coffee every day. In comparison, Americans drink an average of 3.1 cups per day.

When asked if they thought they could go through an entire workday without drinking any coffee, 58% of participants said yes and 42% said no. According to the survey, roughly one in three people had spilled coffee on their work computer at least once (which is a bit worrying).

Premier Coffee, a product of Capital Star Diamond Group, was the most popular coffee brand in Myanmar offices, as reported by 52.3% of participants. The imported Nescafé came in second with 27.3%

20.5% OTHERS

Myanmore

Over 1,500 mobile kitchens from the thoroughfares of downtown and China town now inhabit a fairly narrow 3 km strip of highway betwixt Strand Road and the highway.

The new market is managed by Yangon City Development Committee (YCDC) with an aim to reducing traffic jams downtown by getting vendors off the main streets. YCDC is also providing water, electricity, cleaning and mobile toilets.

“Those vendors can sell safely and freely in this new night market,” said YCDC member Daw Than Myint Aung. “That is better for both the street vendors and the people.”

Reactions so far have generally been positive, although there are slight concerns with the lack of atmosphere and where alcohol is banned. There are also concerns

Inya Myaing 22 Car Service Center Promotions

Every Friday, Saturday and Sunday (only December but Christmas day not included), they will give car alignment or car wash 50% discount Gift voucher for the people who buy shell engine oil (4L,5L,6L). | Contact via 09 3141785.

22 Inya Myaing, Bahan Tsp.

as to whether the new location will attract more crowds, though many of them have expressed optimism that problems will resolve over time and the night scene will flourish.

Sixty eight year old Kyaw Kyaw Htein, a noodle stall owner told Myanmore, ”Let time be the judge on the market’s future success”.

of the results. Other choices given were Royal Myanmar (2.4%), Super (2.1%), Gold Roast (1%), and an Other (12.9%) option.

2% of participants didn’t know what brand they drank.

Ma Yin Wai Pyone, Deputy Head of Marketing at Premier Coffee, says they owe the success of Premier to their customers’ loyalty.

‘We always keep track of the product quality, including the right taste profile for Myanmar consumers, and the affordability and the availability to the target market.

We have been in this market for over a decade. But every day, we are thriving for more.’

The survey also revealed that those in engineering or technical professions consumed the most amount of coffee per day.

MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016 / 17

cover story

Snare and the Rap Master Nay Win Aung Pyae meets up with rap artist and fashion designer Nay Win of the band Snare.

Text by Aung Pyae Photography by Gerhard Jörén

“I’m the original godfather,” Nay Win jokes as he greets me in his downtown fashion shop named “Oh my Godfather”. The joke is an ice breaker from the amicable Nay Win, who admits his ‘hard faced’ look often makes people hesitant to greet him.

For the past decade or so Nay Win’s name has been synonymous with Snare, the popular rap band he established with his school friend Sithu Phay Myint in the year 2000. They were soon joined by their friends Phyo Lay and Set Paing Soe as well as Nay Win’s cousin Aung Thu. Nay Win’s family didn’t forbid him to enter the subversive world of rap but neither did they have the money to support him. “I only had my own pocket money. I started out on my own and solved all my problems on my own.”

Since Sithu was the man with the instruments their first album was recorded and burnt at Sithu’s house.

“We had to record by equipping a computer microphone on the wall,” says Nay Win, “singing continuously and starting all over again when we made mistakes”. The first unofficial album was recorded in 2001 under a

18 / MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016

limited budget that allowed for only 40 copies: “Of course, we made sure we gifted the girls with a copy so we could flirt with them.”

By the year 2000 the musical genre of hip hop had already captured the attention of Yangon youth, primarily through the music of bands such as ‘Acid’ who led the way for American style hip hop in Myanmar. Nay Win was quick to notice the trend, taking the music of his favourite artists and expanding upon them.

“I liked the music of Ko Myo Kyawt Myaing to begin with” he says of early musical influences from Myanmar.

“Later I got into Ko Yan Yan Chan from Acid band, Ko Zayar Thaw, Ko Hein Zaw, and also Sai Sai Kham Hlaing.”

Sometimes it is harder to maintain success than it is to find it in the first place. Having established themselves firmly on the Myanmar music scene, Snare were almost derailed and disbanded by forces beyond their control.

Around 2003/4 the producers of their second album were arrested for reasons Nay Win prefers not to divulge.

cover story

“ I live to sing and I sing to live. It’s not business or financial. I record as if it were a live performance. I try to feel it. De“Hip hop is free, open and direct. pending You can onspeak the song as you I canlike. laugh, dance, That is why I love feelhip sadhop” and even cry ” MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016 / 19

cover story

As a result the album remained unfinished and the vocalist Aung Thu left the band due to personal reasons.

While not completely disbanding Snare entered the slow lane. “In 2005 and 2006 there were long periods we didn’t even meet up. I debuted one solo album called Hip Hop Vibration in 2005 and distributed a VCD”.

While the album didn’t meet with the runaway success he’d hoped for it led to a style known popularly as ‘Nay Win Rap’ and established him with a unique identity amongst Myanmar’s fans of hip hop.

“I wrote and sang lots of songs when I made that album. I also spent three or four years in the studio. My own style appeared only after 2005.” The sarcasms and metaphors in Nay Win’s songs were contagious, encouraging his listeners to express themselves freely and without fear. The cultural landscape of Yangon was shifting towards freedom of expression and Nay Win was a part of that movement.

20 / MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016

Back on track With time acting as the great healer, the four remaining members of Snare got back together to work on a new set of songs at Sithu’s home studio in 2009. Samples of the new songs were distributed the same year, attracting the attention of the producer, Sai Sai Kham Hlaing.

“We started our new lives then,” says Nay Win. “Our first song on our return (called Danger) became popular”.

The song, strongly influenced by American hip hop, features a pulsating rhythm and high energy vocals guaranteed to raise the temperature on the dance floors of Yangon.

“The girls are cool, don’t flirt them DANGER! They gonna fool you one by one DANGER! Beauties from Yangon are - DANGER!”

cover story

Concerts Follow Nay Win on Facebook for details of the upcoming concerts listed below.

25 Dec

29 Dec 31 Dec

17 Jan 29 Jan 10 Feb 14 Feb

Flowers Festival, Pyin Oo Lwin Tar Chi Late New Year Party, Kandawgyi Park, Yangon Loi Kaw Pathein Mone Ywar Valentine's day, Yangon

Befitting Nay Win’s sense of humour and tendency not to take himself too seriously he throws in a comedy element.

in this age is tough. We have to give everything away for free yet everyone demands a high quality. We have to build our songs in such situations.”

“This cute granny on the street is also a – DANGER!”

Nay Win says he never wanted the title of ‘artist’ since that title only brings him burdens and responsibilities. “It’s like living in a space and time that hasn’t yet arrived. I prefer free living.”

Snare were back in the groove despite the fact that Sithu and Phaing Soe had moved on to other projects. Nay Win and Phyoe Lay, the only two left from the original line-up debuted their official second, self-titled album, ‘Ba Gyi Phyo and U Nay Win’.

Nay Win’s jovial personality defies the pressures upon the artist in modern day Myanmar, where copyright laws are virtually none existent, and the role of the artist is all too often looked down upon as unimportant.

“Since we became singers in the age of copyists, we start out with a financial loss whenever we start on a new album or show. The life of a singer

Oh My Godfather In 2013 Nay Win broadened his business and creative interests with the opening of ‘Oh My Godfather’, a fashion design and retail outlet where Nay Win plays a hand in designing new lines of clothing. “I don’t have much vision in business. I’m just selling things designed as I feel. I’m just doing what I want to do. So far, everything’s working out fine.”

thread that runs through his life. Since the age of 14 till this day, Nay Win has been belting out rap songs, revelling in the freedom of expression and infusing his fans with that passion.

“I listened to western songs by black people. I fell in love with them, imitated them in singing and writing. I was constantly touched by their songs and worked on them constantly”, he says of his teenage years in Kyaunk Myaung township. “Hip hop is free, open and direct. You can speak as you like. That is why I love hip hop”.

Today, you can still catch the impassioned Nay Win belting out the music of his youth from the concert venues of Yangon and beyond, keeping alive and passing on his passion for hip hop.

But it’s his first love, rap music that Nay Win continues to be best known for and rap music that forms the golden

MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016 / 21

indepth

Streets of Yangon

Walking The Streets of Yangon: 13th Street Bob Percival discovers clean alleyways, woodcarvings, duck eggs, and two very protective small dogs down on 13th Street.

01

22 / MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016

Streets of Yangon

02

It’s time to clean up Yangon! With the election of the new government, one of the things that has changed is that downtown Yangon is finally coming to terms with its rubbish. Years of neglect have left the laneways full of trash and ravenous rodents.

Today I am again walking with Khin Yadan Htun, an avid lover of all things goth, as well as an expert make-up artist. We start our journey at the bottom block, corner of Strand Road and 13th Street. The rain has finally retreated and a blue incandescent sky lies overhead. The first thing we notice is a plethora of red plastic canvas signs, new to downtown. They proclaim a one year prison sentence or a fine, ranging from10,000-500,000Ks for anyone throwing rubbish out of their rear windows into back alleyways – a strong incentive indeed. I won’t be sorry to see my four-legged friends retreat.

1 No. 68: 1957 modernism with architectural curves in concrete 2 Shwe La Win carving a teak panel as part of a wardrobe 3 Daw Mya reweaving the rattan webbing of a shopowner’s reading chair

On the corner pavement, facing Strand Road, Shwe La Win is expertly carving a teak panel that will become part of a wardrobe. He works quickly and efficiently, with amazing speed and accuracy, It only takes him 30 min-

indepth

03

utes to carve the intricate design. He’s been doing it for 21 years, and working at this corner furniture shop, Swe Hinthar Furniture, for 7 years. He gets paid by the piece. We are amazed that we can buy this now beautifully carved panel of teak for only 1600Ks. Shwe La Win can complete four wardrobes a day. The owner, Ah Leong, is only too happy to sell you individual pieces on request.

Just up from Shwe La Win, we come across Daw Mya, sitting in the sun outside the salubrious Myanmar Lacquerware Shop, at No.7. She is reweaving the rattan webbing of the shopowner’s personal reading chair. Her work is skillful and precise. Very few people in Myanmar now have this skill of rattan weaving. Daw Mya is 70 years old and lives in Dalah, as do her three sons. For the last month she has had no work. Daw Mya will finish this job in three hours and be paid 300,000Ks. Good money but not often gained.

Pop inside the Lacquerware Shop, the lacquerware is of the highest standard and well worth a look.

The shop has been open for 25 years, and is now run by two sisters, Khine

Khine and Naing Naing. The wares are made in Bagan and the shop supplies top-end hotels and restaurants. Prices range from15,000Ks for a small bowl, to $2800 for a huge lacquerware urn.

Take your pick.

Over on the right side of the street at No.18 you will find the fascinating duck egg shop belonging to Ms. Annamal of J.S. Enterprise. She has been running the place for 20 years, only selling eggs wholesale to stores, restaurants, hotel and markets around town. All the duck eggs come from her own farm at Mhawbi, on the outskirts of Yangon.

Out there she has 30,000 ducks laying 20,000 eggs a day. Each egg is priced at 125Ks, but sold wholesale in 10 trays of 30 eggs for 37,500Ks. Ms. Annamal is happy to sell you a small lot if you wish.

Further up at No.32, there is 1982 building, and if you look up you will see a top edifice with a sculpted green parrot put there by the original owner of the building. This was the brand logo of a very famous cigar that came from Bago, called Shwe Gal (Golden Brand Parrot). Acroos the road is the Shwe Thazin Rice & Oil Shop. Khine buys MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016 / 23

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Streets of Yangon

some freshly-pressed peanut oil from Magwe for her grandmother, as its her favourite. A viss (1,6kg) costs 4900Ks. High quality rice from Shwebo is also available at 49,000Ks for 50kg bag.

Further up the street on the left side is some very colourful street art, and good street food.

On the north-east corner of Mahabandoola Road & 19th Street, in the middle block, you can get some great early-morning noodle salad, kauk swe thoke, for only 500Ks a dish.

Here, there is also the award-winning Fruit Juice & Juices Shop, owned by the very friendly Soe Soe Mew, who offers a huge variety of juices made

from fresh avocado, dragonfruit, lime, apple, sunkist, banana, passionfruit, watermelon, papaya and of course avocado (1500Ks) – delicious!

town. At No.96 there are two small dogs guarding the entrance of the house with a ferocity far outmatching their size.

At No.68 you will find an example of 1957 modernism with architectural curves in concrete. And up at No.88 we are welcomed into the recently opened Agga Guest House, very popular with backpackers, and good value at $US20 a night. The staff are all young Burmese and incredibly friendly. Across at No.89 there is a funky green two-storey building with a very cool Chevrolet-like 1957 motif, similar to the ‘streamline moderne’ metal badge you see on Hino buses around

We cross the Anawratha Road to the upper block. On the corner, a large tree that has somehow managed to survive, displays another red sign. This one notifying that ‘vendors are not allowed to sel or lend or rent this space because it is public property’. A very contentious issue, it’s the vendors that contribute so much to the street life of downtown Yangon.

Despite the sign there is a wonderful Burmese buffet stall right next door, selling tasy mohinga, fried rice, and brewed tea (500Ks). The mohinga without fried gourd is 500Ks, and with, 600Ks. The owner of the stall is Naing, who has been here 10 years. At the moment he is having no trouble with the YCDC council. The upper block of 13th Street stops short at the wall to the Thawyettaw Kyaungttaw monastery complex. Well worth a look if you can find the entrance gate nearby.

There is a very simple two-storey building at No.111 with wooden railings on the verandah, and a laundry opposite. Local laundries are quite rare. The real surprise in when you enter the rear laneway at the end of the street.

Go and have a look. Enjoy!

Bob Percival's book, "Walking the Streets of Yangon: The people, stories & hidden treasures of downtown cosmopolitan Yangon (Rangoon)" is now available at Rangoon Teahouse, Pansuriya, Hla Day, Press Office Cafe, Easy Cafe, and large bookstores in Yangon. Percival is now planning to do a second book that covers more streets.

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4 No. 18: duck egg shop 5 Colourful street art on 13th Street

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Arts & Culture

Preserving Myanmar’s Culture Once Dance Step at a Time Susan Bailey a non-profit organization aiming to sustain classical performing arts for years to come. With the support of the Suu Foundation and other private donors, Arts Mandalay Foundation has developed the Inwa Arts School and brought the Mintha Theatre under its patronage.

The Inwa Arts School offers top-notch training from four renowned dancers.

The school emphasizes quality over quantity, taking a few select students and providing a two-year course as well as full-board.

John Flory, the lead character in the famous novel Burmese Days, stated ‘no one with eyes in his head can resist a pwe-dance.’ Although Flory says a lot of disagreeable- and downright racistthings, it is hard to argue with him on this point. The mesmerizing dances and incredible tales told at a zat pwe are unique and memorable.

Once a regular feature of Myanmar life, these days there are fewer zat pwes being held and this tradition is slowly fading from the culture. But the newly established Mandalay Arts Foundation, a team of passionate art lovers, is hoping to change this trend.

And, fittingly, it all started with a pwe.

While on holiday in Myanmar in 1987, Dan Erlich’s trishaw driver offered to take him to a local festival. With time on his hands, Dan agreed and off they went, bouncing down the streets of Mandalay to a lively street party with a stage and band. As the night unfolded Dan became more and more capti26 / MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016

vated by the incredible dances of the zat pwe. He vowed then and there to return to Myanmar again to study this traditional art form.

Dan began to form connections with local artisans and travelled all over Myanmar to see performances. But as the years passed, he could see the country shifting away from its traditions with fewer and fewer zat pwes taking place. Dan grew increasingly determined to preserve this unique art form. ‘The zat pwe has shown me something very clearly, and that is the role that artists play in reminding people of their common past and the values that they share, and in so doing, binding together the generations, the rural areas to the town, and the different regions of Myanmar. This is not just entertainment. It is defining national identity and taking an active role in creating the future,’ he stated.

Almost thirty years later, Dan’s hard work has paid off. In 2015 the Arts Mandalay Foundation was established,

Student Ko Htoo Bwa Aung hails from Mawlu in the Kachin State. The 14-year old beams with pride when speaking about being a student at Inwa. ‘I saw a pwe in my village when I was a child and fell in love with traditional dance.

After that day, I would dance all dayeven when I was showering in the stream or walking from my house to the outhouse. Now I have a chance to learn from the masters and I hope to be a troupe leader in the future,’ he says with a smile.

The teachers spend their days sharing their expert skills and techniques with the young students. Teacher Pantra Kyaw Win is one of Myanmar’s most famous living performers. Now 72 years old, he got his start in dance at the tender age of 11 at a government school offering the comprehensive ‘Pantra’ (traditional performing arts) curriculum. By 16, he was a troupe leader and spent the next decades of his life performing at zat pwes around the country. His passion for dance – and his students – is clear. During the training, he sits back, carefully observing the dancers from afar and offering words of advice or encouragement as needed. He said ‘I am proud that I can

contribute to preserving our country’s heritage.’

In addition to training the next generation of zat pwe performers, Arts Mandalay Foundation also aims to promote Myanmar culture to the outside world. To do this, the foundation took over the Mintha Theatre, a performing arts centre that had struggled financially since its opening in 2006.

The theatre offers nightly one-hour shows of dance and music performed by the students (tickets: 14,000 MMK).

Dan hopes, in the future, that the school will be a leading force in educating the international market about Myanmar culture. He elaborated on his reasoning by saying ‘Our model is for example, Bali, where arts have helped the whole country. Mandalay has similar intrinsic resources if it can keep them from slipping away.’

Hopefully the Arts Mandalay Foundation will continue to grow and encourage others to actively promote Myanmar culture. As Director U Aung Kyaw Tun sums it up ‘We want to keep our strong culture alive and share it with the world. If we lose our culture, we are also lost.’

For more information: Web: http://www.artsmandalay.org/ Phone: 096803607 Address: 58th Streets between 29th and 30th Streets Mandalay, Myanmar Nightly shows: 20.30-21.30 (14,000 Ks)

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ARE YOU CERTIFIED YET? Our programmes are now open for enrolment: CERTIFIED RETAIL BANKER CERTIFIED CARDS & PAYMENTS PROFESSIONAL BRANCH MANAGER CERTIFICATION CUSTOMER SERVICE CERTIFICATION

Enquire / enrol with us today: 09 257 999 601 / 602 / 603 info@mfc.com.mm www.mfc.com.mm MYANMAR FINANCIAL CENTER (MFC) Shwe Asia Tower, 2nd Floor (Corner of Mahabandoola Rd. and 48th St.) Botahtaung Township, Yangon, Myanmar

Gerhard Jörén www.gerhardjoren.com MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016 / 27

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Travel

Gloriously Untamed Martyn Brown explores the remote Dawei peninsula by motorbike, a bewitching 80 km-long finger of land pointing directly south into the glistening Andaman Sea. Photography by Martyn Brown, Jamie Stevenson

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Travel

“Without doubt the most jaw-dropping strip of sand in the region, and possibly the whole country, is Po Po Kyauk or Grandfather beach, an hour ride north of Paradise ”

TRAVEL TIPS

A boy grins and raises his arms aloft in celebration as another goal is scored while his friends jostle and scramble to gather the ball. Sporting well-worn and familiar football shirts they enthusiastically kick off to start the game again. It’s an everyday scene familiar to playgrounds the world over. Except this is no playground, it is the scorching sand of a rough and tumble fishing village on Myanmar’s remote southern tropical coast.

Yangon

11h

Dawei

Tanintharyi Region

1 hr

HOW TO GET TO DAWEI

By Air There are daily flights to and from Yangon. $180 to $210.

By Train A cost effective but gruelling 24 hour journey from Yangon, changing at Ye.

By Bus/Car Probably best to fly from Yangon Hiring Motorbikes / scooters Focus at 688 Pakoku Kyaung Road, Dawei (09422 190130 / 09263 030844) - 8000 kyats a day Buses (2500 kyat) run all the way from Dawei to Aut Kyauk Wap,

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WHERE TO STAY http://www.myanmarparadisebeach.com http://www.sinhtauk-beachbungalows.com WHERE TO EAT & DRINK Anywhere along the road from Dawei to Aut Kyauk Wap village Dream Journey Cafe in Dawei https://www.facebook.com/ pages/Dream-Journey-CafeDawei/431290523683205 Tavoy Kitchen in Dawei https:// www.facebook.com/TAVOY-Kitchen-1074793442577242/

The thirsty gaggle, Chelsea, Man City and Everton among others, relieve me of my water bottle, guzzling it down before hurling it onto the beach.

It doesn’t matter. This is the village rubbish tip, toilet, fish drying area and football pitch. Welcome to San Hlan.

Like the Ngapi - a pungent fish paste which you either love or hate - which emanates from these parts, it is a place of stark contrasts.

Slumped lazily in an achingly beautiful bay with teak fishing boats gently bobbing in the sea, San Hlan isn’t for the faint-hearted with the stench of fish baking in the searing sun, broken bottles and scavenging dogs bringing a hint of menace.

It’s a place where glassy-eyed tattooed fisherman, their early morning catch already a distant memory, spend long boozy days in the village beer station, deftly picking their way through a fresh portion of local prawn Ceviche, presumably until they are thrown out when it’s time to go fishing again.

Despite its rough edges the welcome here could not have been warmer.

Riding into the village on the back of a motorbike I was met with a friendly

chorus of Mingalabar - Hello - along the narrow track which serves as San Hlan’s main thoroughfare. Women, packing fish into ice boxes, smile joyfully while chuckling children are bathed in buckets underneath stilted ramshackle homes.

Moments before I had taken a tumble, going head-over-heels onto the unforgiving gravelly road, only to be cared for by a group of local men, checking me over for cuts and bruises like a caring mother would.

San Hlan was the last stop of a three day adventure around the Dawei peninsula, a bewitching 80 km-long finger of land pointing directly south into the glistening Andaman Sea. Until relatively recently the area, in Myanmar’s Tanintharyi Division, was a tricky place to visit with foreigners forced to get government permits to set foot here. Travel restrictions were relaxed three years ago, but even now only a small trickle of tourists make the journey, partly due to poor, but improving, infrastructure and a lack of places to stay.

Geographically closer to Bangkok than Yangon, the area’s natural treasures are enticing backpackers on the gruelling overland journey from Thailand. Those who do come find a world of stunning scenery with jagged mountains, expansive vistas, soaring Toddy Palms used to make ‘Sky Beer’, traditional fishing villages, waterfalls and, of course, gloriously untouched beaches. The pace of life is slow, the smiles aplenty.

Dawei, a functional riverside town, is the starting point for most trips to the

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area. It’s accessible from Yangon via a one hour flight or, for those with a lot of time on their hands, a 24-hour train journey. Road access in the region is rapidly improving.

After hiring some motorbikes in Dawei and a quick local fish curry it was time for my travelling companion and I to head south. Soon the main road out of town takes you over the Dawei River before meandering its way down the spine of the peninsula, passing through villages, rice paddies, cashew and palm plantations.

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We stop regularly for cups of tea, snacks and to chat with the locals - it’s a long but enjoyable ride. The end of the road, literally, is Paradise Beach, a near-perfect bay backed by steep lush hills and swaying palms.

To get to this remote beauty takes a bit of effort, including a rugged 10 minute ride through a rocky jungle path from Aut Kyauk Wap village, but it’s worth it. Here we stay (at the time of writing) at the only fully licensed place open to foreigners on the peninsula, Paradise Beach Resort.

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The setting is perfect, simple huts nestled underneath the palm trees, a small restaurant serving delicious food and very little else. There’s no internet, no mobile phone connection or electricity, just solar-powered charging stations and a satellite phone in case of emergency.

Lazy days can be spent lolling in a hammock sipping fresh coconut juice, riding the surf or swatting away tiny jumping fish as they leap out of the warm water.

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After a sunset like molten lava the pace of life drops further as we stargaze by a fire on the beach and watch the lights from fishing boats twinkle on the horizon. Adding to the nocturnal light show there’s year-round bioluminescence, glowing plankton, here too. But there’s only so much lazing around one can do with so many other villag-

es, hilltop pagodas with stunning views and beaches to see nearby.

Without doubt the most jaw-dropping strip of sand in the region, and possibly the whole country, is Po Po Kyauk or Grandfather beach, an hour ride north of Paradise. Named after a nearby mountain it is Myanmar’s version of Whitehaven beach in Australia. A seemingly endless stretch of squeaky white sand, backed by an aquamarine swirl of river that forms a mesmerising lagoon. Backed by jagged mountains the setting is ethereal.

Paradise and Grandfather aside there are dozens of idyllic beaches to discover from the tip of the peninsula all the way up to the well known Maungmagan beach and the endless golden sands of Nabule, both closer to Dawei.

For years now there have been countless rumours about property developers buying up large tracts of land along this wonderful stretch of coastline to turn into resorts but, as yet, none have come to fruition.

Just north of Grandfather beach is Sin Htauk, via an arduous 45 minute journey from the main road, where a small-scale operation rents out beach huts but does not have a restaurant.

Heading further north is another stunner, Tizit beach, which is slated for a large Mandolis resort or an oil refinery, depending on who you believe or which way the wind is blowing.

Heading northwards you pass San Hlan before arriving at the picturesque curve of San Maria Bay, nestled into one side of a sandy spit at the end of which is a pagoda built over the sea.

Continuing in the same direction you eventually get to the pretty but litter-strewn Maungmagan beach where the cement-mixers have already moved in.

Travel

1 Grandfather Beach 2 Fish Drying in San Hlan 3 Children in Fishing Village 4 Football in San Hlan 5 Scenery on Dawei Peninsula 6 Paradise Beach Bungalow 7 Paradise Beach 8 Sin Htauk & Grandfather Beaches 9 Golden Rock Pagoda with View Across Dawei River 4 by Jamie Stevenson 1-3, 5-9 by Martyn Brown

Finally, further north still you reach the extraordinary, but controversial, Nabule beach.

If you want to enjoy this wonderful stretch of sand it might be wise to get there soon. This is the planned site of the $1.7 billion Dawei Special Economic Zone, a stalled project that, according to recent reports, is being restarted with a new Thai-Japanese partner joining the original developer, Italian-Thai Development (ITD).

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Back in Dawei there was just enough time for us weary travellers to grab an avocado coffee, absolutely delicious, and a plate of scrumptious noodles before flying back to civilisation in Yangon.

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“Lines of nuns took a break from their morning alms donation to wave at us.

Hordes of kids tried to follow us by bike. And when we landed the entire village came over to greet us. And, unlike the Bagan landing, not a single person was trying to sell us souvenirs”

Beyond Bagan: Oriental Ballooning takes to the Skies of Mandalay A sceptical Susan Bailey takes to the skies above Mandalay and is quickly won over.

Photography by Oriental Ballooning, Mandalay

It’s pitch black and we are standing in the middle of the runway at Mandalay’s unused Chan Myae Tharzin airport. It is an unusual start to an unusual event- a hot air balloon flight over Myanmar’s second largest city.

Since 2013 Oriental Ballooning has taken to the skies of Mandalay, the first and only company to offer flights in the former royal capital. Having flown over Bagan, I was sceptical about the morning’s adventure- surely it would not compare to soaring over thousands of pagodas. And I was right. It did not compare. In fact, I would rank Mandalay above Bagan in terms of the actual ballooning experience.

Instead of coasting over temple plains, the Mandalay flight saw us hovering above the crowded downtown area then soaring across Kandawgyi Lake and up along the banks of the Irrawaddy River. From the elevated vantage point I was able to see temple spires jutting out from local neighbourhoods. I could see the Shan Hills off to

the east draped in early morning fog and Mandalay Hill beckoning from the north. The city has never looked more beautiful.

During the flight, we would occasionally dip down near the rooftops of houses. In Bagan, balloons are so common place that few people even look to the sky when they pass by. But in Mandalay it was quite the opposite.

Everyone- or so it seemed- came out to greet us. Lines of nuns took a break from their morning alms donation to wave at us. Hordes of kids tried to follow us by bike. And when we landed the entire village came over to greet us. And, unlike the Bagan landing, not a single person was trying to sell us souvenirs.

For those unfamiliar with ballooning, the pilots cannot ‘steer’ the balloon.

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ditions and then guide the balloon to the right elevation to catch a drifting breeze. Whereas in Bagan there are regulations limiting the air space for balloons, in Mandalay the pilots have less restrictions which means each flight is unique.

On board, our pilot pointed out iconic landmarks and explained the balloons navigation methods. But there were also times when we also flew silently, allowing us to soak up the solitude of the open skies. Due to a change in the winds we touched down on a sandbank in the Irrawaddy River but the next day the pilot landed in the middle of a brick factory in the eastern part of the city. Although I snapped dozens of photos, none of them seemed to do justice to the flight.

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I am not alone in my praise of this experience. According to Oriental Ballooning’s pilots, everyone who flies in Mandalay raves about the experience.

Passengers have included balloon-enthusiasts who have flown all over the world and guests who wanted to fly in Bagan but, due to lack of availability, were bumped to Mandalay flights. Regardless of ballooning experience, the guests’ praise has been unanimous.

As pilot Bill MacKinnon puts it, “The city offers such a diverse landscape of new and old architecture, so many religious and historical sights, and of course the colour and sounds of a vibrant city that is just waking up as the balloon launches early in the morning.

Simply put- Mandalay is one of the ultimate ballooning destinations.” And this is coming from a pilot who has flown over iconic sites like the Swiss Alps and Syria’s Palmyra ruins.

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Despite the praise, Oriental Ballooning has had difficulties selling the Mandalay flights. Bagan started hosting flights in 2001 and the images of the balloons drifting over the pagodas is iconic. According to a manager of a locally-based travel company, “It is hard to convince our overseas guests to fly in Mandalay. They have seen the images of Bagan balloons in magazines and on TV. They do not see the lure of flying over a big metropolis like Mandalay. Even though we offer the (Mandalay) flights to guests, they all insist on Bagan.�

While Oriental remains hopeful that the northern destination will take off, they have also expanded their operations to Inle Lake and Ngapali. The Balloons over Bagan company has also started flying at Inle Lake but Oriental Ballooning remains the sole operator at the beach and in Mandalay.

Although the prices are high- rates start around 350,000 Ks for locals and 380 USD for foreigners- a flight over Mandalay is well worth the money.

The top-notch pilots and friendly crew make sure all passengers are safe and the customary champagne toast at the end of the flight is the icing on the cake. And whereas Bagan has more than twenty balloons in the sky on any given morning, Mandalay has only onemaking the experience even more special.

Oriental Ballooning www.orientalballooning.com info@orientalballooning.com +95 9 256224976 Corner of 35th and 71st Streets Chan Aye Thazin Township, Mandalay

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Arts & Culture

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The Visual Poetry of Ko Lynn Zin Yaw Through rearranging characters from the Burmese alphabet into semi abstract images, artist Ko Lynn Zin Yaw has produced a unique body of work he calls ‘Concrete Visual Poetry’. Htun Lyn Zaw interviews the artist to learn more of his obsession.

Renowned American author Charles Bukowski once wrote in one of his short narratives, saying that writing is the way he indulges the madness in him.

Same would go for Picasso with painting, B B King with playing the blues, and so on. Similarly, after my interview with Ko Lynn Zin Yaw, I realize that his madness uniquely and simply lies in the art of arranging the Burmese Alphabets in creative ways to express his inner thoughts, in forms of visual poetry.

His works can range from something that would put the sincerest smile on your face to something that would make you ponder upon existential conundrums (see artwork 1, 2, and 3).

You can see in his works either visual poetry or alphabet paintings. He was kind enough to share his modest journey of these works of distinctive creation.

Can you tell us a little bit about your background? How did you get started with visual poetry?

It was way back in early 2013, when I saw typography of some English alphabets in an old MAD Magazine. I really liked them, so I figured I should do something similar with Burmese Alphabets. The idea originated then, but I was more into writing poems that time. So I was just at the experimenting phase with the alphabets.

By the first week of September 2015, I was somehow bewitched and could not stop generating the ideas on alphabets. I started to make a lot of them. I would make one, and put it up on social media, and I would get more ideas while I am doing that. My personal Facebook timeline was messed up with Burmese Alphabets. There were people who got them and liked them but there were also people who thought I was destroying the alphabets somehow.

However, I was so pumped up about this new found love of mine, and I

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Arts & Culture

could not stop thinking about these 33 Burmese alphabets. I got to the point where I was mad and could only see these alphabets wherever I went.

I would get an idea randomly when I went outside, and I would put that idea in practice when I got home. By the end of September, I had to make a separate page to post my works because I was annoying some acquaintances in my friends list.

I realized that concrete art is actually an emphasis of abstraction.

I am a little confused. How would you define your work?

This was an issue when I made the page: to put a label on my works.

Obviously I had to include Burmese Alphabets, since they are the emphasis of my works. The poet who first introduced the concept of visual poetry in Myanmar in 2004, Sayar Nyein Wai, encouraged me to use the word “conceptual.” I was quite hesitant about it, so I went with “visual.” Even though, these typography works largely correlate with poetry, and it is under the category of “poetry”, but I wanted to avoid people complaining like “Is this supposed to poetry?” Which is why, I started use “Art” instead. So the combination is “Burmese Alphabets Visual Arts.” The name was quite long.

Then again, Sayar Nyein Wai told me again that it could be “Concrete Conceptual Art.” I really love it and slipped in the word “Concrete.” Hence, it is “Burmese Alphabets Concrete Visual Arts.” The label got way too long and unattractive. I figured I should leave it at that since I did not want to change anything anymore.

Aside from me, who is a self-proclaimed fan, what other kind of people usually appreciate your works?

There are a lot. But this type of “visual poetry”, which emphasizes on the Burmese alphabets, was not around much before in Myanmar. There were, of course, a lot of paintings and photography projects which correlate with visual arts, but Burmese alphabets were otherwise. It is relatively new and strange to some people

since they try to pronounce out these words. There are some of my works which correlates with sound, but the context is always changing. Those who get the contexts can mostly appreciate my work.

How do you practice your art?

What kind of procedures do you go through to improve it?

There’s nothing in particular to practice with graphic design and other software, since I just use the basic Microsoft paint and Zaw Gyi font to do my works. I am not especially good with those graphic design related tech matter, so I just use Paint to grind on.

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“I got to the point where I was mad and could only see these alphabets wherever I went. I would get an idea randomly when I went outside, and I would put that idea in practice when I got home.”

What kind of activities or events have you done or are you considering to do concerning your works?

For the activities, I did a small exhibition last year, collaborating with the World Poetry event. It was not much, and I just moved into this apartment, and my room is not decorated with my pictures from the event as you can see it. With a friend of mine, I was able to establish a website called Burmese Vispo (visual poetry), where I can officially post my work of art. I got some recognition from it, and the result of it is that Yangon Heritage Trust asked me to do some works for their project (See Artwork 5). For the future reference, I am trying to collaborate with other visual artists to start a project, but the project is still in the process of materializing.

You can go check Ko Lynn Zin Yaw’s artworks at his page “Burmese Alphabets Concrete Visual Art” on Facebook or the website www.burmesevispo.com . His book for visual poetry will be released in the near future.

1 Yangon 2 Vincent van Gogh - Sunflowers 3 Nothing last forever 4 Burmese Harp

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Sustainable Enterprise

Pomelo for Myanmar: Gifts that Grow Sondang Grace Sirait meets Nah Eh Wah, one of the creative forces behind Yangon based social enterprise, Pomelo.

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Sustainable Enterprise

Born and raised by a physician mother who dedicated her life to leprosy patients in Mowlamyine, Nah Eh Wah grew up around leper colonies. People in those communities became her adopted family, and later, her career goal. From her quaint hometown in the capital of Mon State in Southeastern Myanmar to bustling Yangon, the soft-spoken woman has spent the past six years providing livelihood for lepers and other disabled people.

“It’s always been natural for me, growing up among leper communities in Mowlamyine. I’ve always wanted to do something for them,” said Nah Eh Wah, a former livelihood coordinator at Leprosy Mission, an international Christian charity.

To get started, she looked at none other than her own art skills. “I started making my own bracelets and necklaces when I was eight years old. I remember giving them out to friends and being told that they were lovely.

So I thought, why not share my skills to these unfortunate people?” she recalled.

In 2010, after quitting her NGO job, the self-taught artist established an artisanal community she named Amazing Grace. Spread in four locations – Mowlamyine, Pakokku in Magway Region, Hlaing Thayar and Yankin in Yangon – leprosy survivors and other disabled people began receiving training on how to make jewelry beads and weave baskets.

The idea kept Nah Eh Wah busy for a while, until she realized that the products weren’t selling.

1 Creative hands 2 Handmade gifts 3 Traditional crafts being kept alive 4 Nah Eh Wah and Annie Burnett 5 Artesans for Pomelo 6 Pomelo for Myanmar at Bogyoke Market

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It was in 2012 that things finally took a turn for the better. Upon discovering a Yangon-based social enterprise called Pomelo, she began training with professional designers. Soon, Nah Eh Wah was able to hone her skills and share them with others under her wings.

But that wasn’t all the organization offered. Armed with a mission to provide better livelihood for underprivileged artisans in Myanmar, Pomelo – which now has rebranded itself as Pomelo for Myanmar following an altercation among its early initiators – also provided space for Nah Eh Wah’s products.

Within no time, her jewelry and baskets began to sell more and faster.

At her own home on Min Ye Kyaw Swar Street, what was once a tired looking little corner is now an attractive shop with colorful displays on floating shelves and bright red floors.

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“Your tassels and earrings are selling really well now. We recently ordered 100 earrings and in the past what would we order, 10 or 15? Next year we’ll do more,” Pomelo for Myanmar cofounder Annie Burnet told Nah Eh Wah as they sat down for a catch up at the Amazing Grace workshop.

Now that business is doing well, the budding social entrepreneur would have to pick up the pace and outdo herself. By launching collections, it would help greatly with marketing, she was told. “It’s a way of growing up,” advises Burnet.

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It took a while for Nah Eh Wah to digest the idea, but soon she lit up. “So it’s like doing it in seasons. Okay, now I understand,” she says, nodding in agreement. “I like being busy.”

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MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016 / 41

indepth

Sustainable Enterprise

In a way, “all grown up” may aptly sum up where Pomelo for Myanmar is today, firmly reinstating its position as Yangon’s most popular and beloved social business – and 100% locally owned. Some things remain the same, such as the policy to keep the value chain in Myanmar by buying from local, marginalized social enterprises whenever possible. But the rest on the plate is nothing short of exciting, such as its major plans for expansion.

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In early December, a second store opened at Bogyoke Market, a hotspot for tourists. More plans are underway, which include splitting up its products into cheaper-end small gifts and higher-end homeware collections.

Another initiative ties in with the enterprise’s philosophy to reach as many underprivileged groups outside of Yangon.

“It’s a new strategy. It’s a lot of bus rides and the rewards are great. If you want social business, it doesn’t always make economic sense. But we’re not about that. We need to make sure that it’s distributed. It’s also important that we have a policy that we visit the groups. Some people may say, ‘But that takes too much time’. But to sit down, to have a cup of tea, is really important to build a relationship,” said Burnet.

Such has been the responsibility of Tashi Goldring, one of the in-house designers tasked with scouting and sourcing artisans. Hailing from London with an extensive background in textile design and screen printing, Goldring first came to Myanmar in 2015 and fell in love right away.

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42 / MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016

Over the past four months that she had been with the social business, Goldring has spent an enormous time traveling to rural communities. It was in Pyin Oo Lwin, outside Mandalay, that she discovered an orphanage whose nuns are exceptional pattern makers and girls talented tailors. It was in Nga Yoke Kaung, located some 15 hours from Yangon, that she descended upon a coastal village whose

residents share natural-born talents in weaving highly intricate bamboo baskets. The list adds up to about 20 artisanal groups that she currently works with.

“Mostly we start with the skill that’s already there. I’d start from there and think about how we can transfer that into sort of more contemporary design that’s more commercial,” says Goldring, pointing to a bamboo basket from Nga Yoke Kaung that she’s envisioning as a contemporary lampshade.

Another recent collaboration saw her introducing the art of screen printing to a group of disabled artisans in Dala, Yangon, who produce hand-cut longyi cards and stationery.

Her ambition now is to empower local artisans by developing their design skills. The potential, Goldring believes, is endless. One needs only to realize how Myanmar artisans have a real eye for detail and quality.

With renewed focus on design, Pomelo for Myanmar is poised to raise the game. No more pity purchases.

“What we need to do is to make the highest standard of items and then expand them to just be coveted and really wanted by the people that we happen to sell to,” said Burnet. “Designers who can work across ranges are the key to really being able to empower and be of assistance. We’ll collaborate with the groups. Otherwise, they’ll get there but it might take ten years and we don’t want them to take ten years. We want them to be successful within a cycle.”

Pomelo for Myanmar 89 Thein Phyu Rd., Yangon Phone: +95 1 295 358 www.pomeloformyanmar.org

indepth

MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016 / 43

edits/guides

In The Neighbourhood

YAW MIN GYI Dagon Township

Text by Ben Hopkins / Myanmore Ilustrations by Ben Hopkins, Hein Htet

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Nestled behind the iconic Park Royal Hotel on the northern edge of downtown, Yaw Min Gyi is the go to neighbourhood for travellers and expats seeking the creature comforts of home. The past few years have seen a boom in western style coffee shops, Japanese restaurants and el fresco bakeries, as well as art galleries and rooftop bars, wellness spas and boutique fashion outlets.

Sprouts Here you will find something different, a welcome break from most meals in Myanmar that consists of rice, noodles, oil and more oil. Sprouts, opened up last year as the first salad bar in Yangon. You pick your greens, your toppings, your vinaigrette and there you have your salad. Other items on the menu include soups, sandwiches, yogurt and smoothies.

— 68A/2, Yaw Min Gyi St.

You’ll still find the ubiquitous street-side barbeque with scattered plastic stools, betel nut sellers on street corners at dusk and scrap merchants hollering out for trade in the early morning. But the truth is, many of them are in danger of being squeezed out as the international eye of investment zooms in on this most fashionable of neighbourhoods. Some will love it while others will hate it.

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For now, we’ve chosen ten reasons to visit the Yaw Min Gyi neighbourhood.

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Orchid Wellness Specialising in traditional massage Orchid Welleness is a Singapore home grown company. Within the luxurious environment you’ll be given a choice of medically approved head, neck, shoulder, back and foot massages that’ll loosen your limbs and heighten your energy flow.

— 22, Bo Yar Nyunt Rd.

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Aung Mingalar Shan Noodles Restaurant

Fatman Steak Bistro, Cafe & Bar

A popular spot in the trendy Yaw Min Gyi quarter, Aung Mingalar offers a terrific mix of Shan and local dishes. Also, highly recommended are the fried dumplings.

It is a pleasant venue with open doors that gets a cool breeze. A great restaurant for people watching that attracts foreigners and locals alike.

— Corner of Bo Yar Nyunt Rd. & Nawaday St.

A great place to while away an evening of people watching and beer drinking at the bustling junction of Nawaday and Bo Yar Nyunt streets. The Fatman burger competes with the best in town while the wine portions are generous and the staff are keen to interact and enjoy their work.

— Corner of Bo Yar Nyunt Rd. & Nawaday St.

In The Neighbourhood

YAW MIN GYI

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Dagon Township

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Golden Pho Vietnamese Restaurant Golden Pho is Vietnamese cuisine at its best. The ingredients are of a high quality while their minimal use of oil brings out the freshness and authenticity of each dish.

— 62, Yaw Min Gyi St.

05 Craft Cafe A two-storey Singaporean-style cafe, located around the corner of Nawaday Road and Bo Yar Nyunt Road. They mostly serve real coffee, Singaporean breakfast sets as well as a lunch menu. Open all day long, it’s a spacious and friendly neighbourhood day time workspace — Corner of Bo Yar Nyunt Rd. & Nawaday St.

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Sapphire Lounge & Bar at Alfa Hotel

Gallery 65

The Sapphire Lounge & Bar is a laid back joint for cocktails at dusk and late night drinks. Located on the rooftop of Alfa Hotel, Sapphire Lounge offers a scenic view of the Shwedagon Pagoda and the downtown of Yangon.

Guests can order cuisine provided by their Lotus Restaurant. A fine location for gazing into the pristine and un-compromised scenery of the Golden Land.

— 41, Yaw Min Gyi St.

Established in 2010, Gallery 65 is a vibrant and unique art gallery. Its mandate is to exhibit contemporary Myanmar art that is “always fresh, new, and original”.

— 65, Yaw Min Gyi St.

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Beyond Boundaries Yoga

Bijin Japanese Restaurant

Beyond Boundaries Yoga welcomes and encourages collaborations with, international teachers living both in Yangon, internationally and those travelling through Myanmar. Collaborations can include, but are not limited to, yoga workshops, retreats, teacher training and spots as guest instructors. The Beyond Boundaries Yoga studio is also available to rent by the hour for any suitable purpose: for dance classes, Zumba sessions, ballet classes and so forth.

— 28, Level 3, Bo Yar Nyunt Rd.

Bijin is a place where lovers and connoisseur of Japanese cuisine come to dine and relax. The service is impeccable, the food of the highest quality, and the sake and beer a perfect compliment to the food. Enjoy your escape into another world of eating.

— 26, Yaw Min Gyi St.

MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016 / 45

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Food Guide

You’ve no doubt seen these dishes being prepared on the side streets and local kitchens that pepper the streets of Yangon. Some of you may have ventured in and tried out a few of the more offbeat snacks for yourself, snacks that include pig’s brains and fried worms. Our choice of unusual foods may not be to everyone’s taste but they’re packed full of protein and, we reckon, are far better for your health than battered chicken wings. Long live the unusual foods of Yangon.

Myanmore's Choice of Unusual Foods Text by Myanmore Photography by Shady Ramadan

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Pig Intestines

More specifically, pig brains.

Murky white chunks of brain may be seen hiding around in dishes like Kyay Oh and even some curries. They're mushy and actually quite delicious, at least for some people (especially locals). Since most Kyay Oh shops add this to their dishes, it's suggested that foreigners who would rather not have a small lump of brain in their noodles to inform the waiters while ordering..

Chopped up, chewy pig intestines on wooden sticks are sold almost everywhere here on the streets. They can be found in "Pork Stick" (Wat Thar Dote Htoe) shops, along with many other pig innards stuck on sticks, like pieces of heart, ears, tongue, and more. Faint-stomached foreigners who'd like to try a cleaner version of this local food is suggested to go to "Pork n Stick", available in City Marts like Tamwe Ocean, or at Vestige Cafe in Myanmar Plaza.

Deep Fried Crickets

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Brains

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With a crunchy exterior and a creamy inside, deep fried crickets are often sold by street vendors.

Many locals take pleasure in chomping on the interesting, almost sweet taste of these insects. These are easily available here. Don't be hesitant about all the legs poking out; they add an extra crunch! Where to find: some stalls in Chinatown.

Duck Blood Foie Gras (Bae Thwae) Though definitely not as luxurious as Foie Gras, these blocks of boiled duck blood look like Foie Gras and are pretty hard to find.

They're usually chopped up then mixed into local salads for an interesting addition of texture and flavour. For those daring individuals who want a taste, street vendors and restaurants in Chinatown (Latha Township) are the places to go.

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Food Guide

Local Snacks Does your hectic schedule keep you from sitting down for a full meal? Do you get hungry during odd hours of the day? Do not despair because snack options are plentiful in Myanmar. We've rounded up a list of traditional and local Myanmar snacks that'll fill the gap between meals.

Text by Myanmore Photography by Shady Ramadan 01

SWEET SNACKS Bain Mote 01 Similar to sponge cakes, this is a dessert made from rice powder, poppy seeds, and jaggery syrup. It's a great snack to munch on, whether you're wrapped up in work or having a conversation with friends.

Mote Phet Htote 03 Mote Phet Htote is made by stuffing sticky rice with coconut shavings and sugar, and then steaming it after wrapping it in banana leaves. A local favourite, this sweet snack will definitely be the highlight of your day.

Myanmar Falooda Falooda is the locals' favourite cool dessert to beat the summer heat.

Similar to the authentic Italian falooda, the Myanmar version is a scrumptious drink made with a combination of rose syrup, jelly, tapioca pearls, milk, icecream and pudding. Yum! Sanwin Makin A perfect snack to have with a cup of tea, Sanwin Makin is a Myanmar semolina cake. Unlike Bain Mote, Sanwin Makin is much denser and has a coconut taste to it. Be sure to indulge in this snack if you get the chance!

Shwe Yin Aye A traditional coconut cream sherbet, Shwe Yin Aye literally means "cool the golden heart". And like the name suggests, this cold dessert will surely cool your heart on a hot summer day.

It's made of agar-agar jelly, sticky rice,

tapioca pearls, and served with a slice of plain bread.

Ta Nyet Khout Mote If you have a sweet tooth, then this is the snack for you! Think of this as a sweet crepe filled with jaggery syrup, coconut flakes, and red beans. You can always spot a Kout Mote vendor by the round griddle she uses to make this yummy snack.

SAVORY SNACKS A Kin A Kin refers to all types of grilled skewered foods, from lady fingers to chicken wings. This is a great option for meat-lovers and vegetarians alike.

A popular type of a kin is nga kin, a whole grilled fish stuffed with herbs and spices.

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A Kyaw Sone 02 Think tempura, but with an extra touch of grease! A Kyaw Sone includes a variety of deep-fried foods, such as gourds, onions, peas and shrimps. It is best enjoyed with tamarind dip and a cup of tea.

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Lan Thayae Khout Mote This is a savory alternative to the Ta Nyet Khout Mote. Instead of the sweet jaggery filling, the Lan Thayae Khout Mote is filled with cabbage, tomatoes, chilli, masala and boiled yellow beans, making it the perfect snack for all the spice lovers out there.

quail eggs and yellow peas deep-fried in a dimpled pan. Two "halves" are then served joined together like a pair of lovers, hence the name.

Mote Lin Mayar Literally "couple snack", Mote Lin Mayar is made of a mixture of rice batter,

These are delectable fish balls stuffed with cabbage and drizzled with lemon juice. Ask the vendor to add some

Nga Phel A Sar Thoot (Stuffed Fish Balls)

green chilli for an extra kick! This snack is great for grabbing a bite on the go.

Si Htamin Si Htamin is steamed yellow sticky rice, traditionally eaten as a breakfast food.

It is best served warm, topped with fresh onions and boiled yellow beans.

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The Marina, unlike a certain political movement, is sleek, stylish and modern - ideal for a city that is redefining itself as an exciting cosmopolitan place to be. Although not revolutionary, its menu is nonetheless imaginative and the list of dishes will keep most Indian food lovers salivating.

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One of the quirks of being a journalist is the often bizarre situation you find yourself in. And so it was that in the week of Fidel Castro’s death I find myself interviewing a man called Stalin who just happens to help run Yangon’s newest Indian restaurant.

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63 Taw Win Road Dagon Township, Yangon 09 970550055 Opens 11 am - 3 pm, 6.30 pm - 10 pm 1ST ST 2ND ST 3RD ST 4TH ST

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Food Reviews

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The No. 1 App to Restaurants & Bars in Myanmar Download App on iOS and Android today!

so, they even have a well-stocked ’fish market’ whereby diners choose the fish they want, how to cook it and pay by weight. It’s a novel concept in Yangon which, excuse the pun, might catch on.

Starters are always a good place to begin, especially so at the Marina. The Murg Malai Tikka (7500 Ks), morsels of chicken laced with cream and cooked in a tandoor oven, is as soft as marshmallow. The zingy Aachari Chicken, Kalimirchi Kebab - a bite-sized peppery explosion of flavour - and a Mutton Boti kebab (all 7500) were absolutely scrumptious.

Perhaps the star of the show though, Crispy Corn in a Golden basket (4500), was an imposter from the Pan Asian menu.

As I sip on a cool refreshing Mango Lassi the charismatic manager, named by his father who was a Communist politician in Southern India, explains that the Marina has chosen Yangon to be its first international location outside of Chennai.

“The owner of this building ate in our award-winning restaurant in Chennai and he was so impressed that he said that he had to bring the food to Yangon”.

Situated at the heart of the city’s embassy district the Marina also puts a lot of effort into choosing its ingredients.

“It is the first restaurant in Yangon to have a fish market and we support sustainable fishing,” he says.

“We spent at least six months checking out food markets in Yangon to find the best one to buy some of the produce we use. Some also comes from India. We make all our bread, yoghurts and paneer here in our kitchen’s. We want people to be able relax here and know they are getting top quality food.”

them as a bit drab and boring. However, having eaten this rice dish in some of the of the world’s curry hotspots - Mumbai, Birmingham and Slough (a bit like She Lin Ban Industrial Zone) - I can safely say the Marina’s is the best Byriani (7500) I’ve ever had. The rice was tasty and fragrant, the chicken mouthwatering.

The velvety prawn Jhinga Goan Curry (13000) was impressive, especially mopped up with freshly baked Naan (1200) and Paratha (1300) breads.

Again, I feel I’m qualified to judge here as my mother-in-law is Goan and, despite it being one of the most expensive dishes on the menu, it was worth every Kyat.

The Mutton Rogan Josh was everything it should be. Well cooked, spicy, exotic - basically India served in shiny bowl. There was still room, as always, for a dessert of Semiya Payasam (4000), a traditional Tamil sweet treat of vermicelli, milk, cardamom and cloves.

If you don’t fancy eating Indian food there’s also a Pan Asian menu with everything from tom yum soup to dim sum to choose from.

As to be expected there’s a fully stocked bar and a variety of wine to choose from.

The Marina also has it all in terms of dining facilities. Inside, outside, a party room and four private dining rooms.

It was quiet during my lunchtime tasting session but diners have been packing in ever since the Marina opened its doors last month. I was told that the Marinas sister restaurant in Chennai is a regular haunt of movie stars and famous cricketers.

One thing’s for for sure, Yangon’s Marina brings with it a bit of star dust to the Indian dining scene here and at pretty affordable prices.

Having digested my starters, I was next presented with a selection of curries and, unlike their Burmese rivals, there’s barely a drop of oil on them.

Normally I shun a Biryani, viewing

MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016 / 49

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Food Reviews

Eighteen Mandalay's Latest Hotspot Susan Bailey

“Currently our menu presents dishes that sound like familiar Asian dishes but have a slight western influence.

But we are already working with our chef to create dishes that are western with an Asian influence. We will introduce them to the menu over the course of the next several months,” said Nay Aung Win. Eighteen is located at the back of Mingalar Mandalay with views over the old airport. Large floor-to-ceiling windows make the space feel open and airy. The ground floor is a bakery and café with a bar-style seating area and a few tables. The first and second floors are the main restaurant and bar.

The polished concreate floors and walls are accented by an eclectic blend of collections, such as blue and white plates sweeping across the wall and bookcases with art, sculptures, clocks and more. As bizarre as this sounds, it works- Eighteen feels like being at a friend’s house. A friend with remarkably good taste.

EIGHTEEN RESTAURANT 18, Block 4, Mingalar Mandalay 02200129 www.facebook.com/pg/eighteenmdy/

The brainchild of two young, passionate foodies, Eighteen is located in the new Mingalar Mandalay shopping complex and offers American-style food with an Asian twist.

The owners, Nay Aung Win and Lynette Aung, want to change the way people think about western food and the dining culture. Nay Aung Win’s family brought the first European cafes to Mandalay, opening Café City and BBB many years back. But after studying overseas, Nay Aung and his fiancé want to offer a different dining experience for Mandalay’s residents.

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“We want to offer a social space where people can come and enjoy good food, fabulous cocktails and great company.

We do not want to have loud music because we want people to appreciate the experience of dining and chatting with friends,” said Lynette.

They realise their plans are ambitious.

Many clients come in wanting the same dishes that are served at Café City. But Nay Aung Win thinks that, step-by-step, Mandalay’s palate will change.

We started with the chicken wings (4,500 Ks) and the beer carpaccio (7,500). The chicken wings were textbook perfect- thick and juicy with a spicy sauce that was finger-licking messy. The beef carpaccio was a surprising winner. The meat was thinly sliced and flavourful with the spicy mustard sauce and capers adding just the right amount of kick.

For mains, we went with the chef’s recommendation: Pork chop and Portuguese chicken. The Portuguese chicken (7,900) arrived first and was massive – it was at least a half bird on the plate. The bone-in meat was perfectly cooked with a nice, slightly-spicy dipping sauce. The coleslaw served on the side was crisp and not too heavy.

SARMAL

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Food Reviews

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800 bowls "serves chinese food but stands out for its xiao long bao and la mian noodles. my favourites are the stirfried vegetarian la mian noodles, chilli wonton and pork xiao long bao. environment is basic and almost trendy with its raw floor and industrial feeling. you can see into the kitchen, and for a first timer it is worth watching how they make the la mian noodles. it is a hit and gets crowded for both lunch and dinner."

- Andreas The only disappointment were the chips. Although artfully presented, they lacked in flavour. The pork chop (8,500) was equally impressive. A massive chunk of meat alongside a heaping pile of mashed potatoes and vegetables. Again, the pork was perfectly cooked with the right amount of fat. The potatoes and vegetables were good but the meat certainly stole the show.

In addition to our cold beers we sampled a Pegu Cocktail (5000 Ks and 3000 Ks during happy hour), Eighteen’s signature drink. As a gin fan, I loved the refreshing combination of gin, lime and bitters.

We were too full to order dessertwhich was a shame. With Lynette’s background in chemistry she has tinkered with recipes to come up with amazing Shibuya toasts and cakes that are sold under the brand BBB. Her best sellers are Thai Tea and Red

Velvet, a specialty from the southern United States, which are topped with homemade gelato. Lynette’s cakes have already won praise from local foodies who have posted mouth-watering images on Instagram and Facebook.

Eighteen definitely fills a void in the Mandalay dining scene. The setting is perfect for a casual night out with a friend, lingering over cocktails and a good meal. The menu offers good value for money, with high quality ingredients and massive portions. I am looking forward to see what the team at Eighteen comes up with next- they clearly have the talent and know-how to bring more innovative cuisine to Mandalay.

Bawarchi Indian Restaurant "great Indian food. went with four Indian visitors and they loved it. very authentic and delicious according to them and they should know! can recommend to finish your meal with a kulmi dessert, that one also very authentic. environment is clean with a touch of traditional. small space, maybe for fifty people but feels good and homey."

Signature Fine Dining & The Garden Bistro "a favorite in Yangon for a relaxed lunch or a business dinner. can sit inside or outside. good ambiance with a view of the lake and greenery. menu covers soups, salads, local, pizza and main dishes."

- Kyaw Kyaw

- Hein Htet

MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016 / 51

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Nightlife in Mandalay

Nightlife in Mandalay Yangon’s night life scene has grown by leaps in bounds in recent years with new watering holes and clubs opening up weekly. Although Mandalay is lacking in the quantity of nightlife options, there are still plenty of options for those who want an evening out on the town. In this first of two articles, Myanmore shares some of our favourite local evening experiences.

long-running KTV offers the best value-for-money. There is a good selection of English language songs, the rooms and attached bathrooms are clean and the staff are friendly.

Susan Bailey

• Golden City Hotel - This KTV stands above a 24-hour bar so it tends to attract a (drunk) late night crowd. The rooms are small but the music selection is good and the price is right. Service could be better but, at 3AM, who really cares!

Beer Stations Seemingly every street corner in Mandalay is home to a beer station. Serving up cold draft beer and barbeque, beer stations are the cheapest- and most localplaces to go for an evening out.

Most are open-air and decked out with metal or plastic chairs and tables. Although predominately filled with men, it is not unusual to see women or families in the crowd. Some of the more popular beer stations are: • Yunan - There are several outlets of the Yunan ‘chain’ around Mandalay. The long-running shops have gained popularity thanks to their excellent barbeque and Chinese specialties. The most popular shop is Yunan 3.

62nd Street between 36th and 37th streets

• Paradise - Paradise wins high marks for its location next to the moat and its garden eating area but the prices are a touch higher than other shops.

66th Street between 24th and 25th Streets

• White House - This tiny beer station is located near several budget hotels, making it a popular option with the backpacker crowd.

• Super 81 - Although featured in Lonely Planet and on Trip Advisor, Super 81 still attracts a large local crowd nightly. With English-speaking staff and clean toilets, this is probably the best option for afraid to go ‘too’ local.

Corner of 81st and 29th Streets

KTV Beer stations and bars close at 11pm but for those who want to keep the night going, karaoke (called KTV in Myanmar) is a good option. For those who have not been- this is not your local pub’s karaoke night. In Myanmar you get a private room with your own karaoke system and microphones. Service staff are on call, so with the press of a button you can order food and drinks delivered right to your room.

• Best of the Best (BOB) - If you drove by BOB in the day time, it would be easy to mistake it for a WalMart-type super store. The gigantic building with equally gigantic parking lot is one of the most popular KTVs in town. The real draw are the luxurious VIP rooms which are reasonable if split between a group of 8 or more friends.

26th Street between 56th and 57th Streets

Corner of 27th and 74th Streets

• Soprano - Located inside Great Wall shopping mall, this 52 / MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016

78th Street between 32nd and 33rd streets

• Sing Song – Sing Song is located in the new Mingalar Mandalay shopping complex in the southern part of the city. The rooms are larger than most, the music list is regularly updated and the service is efficient.

73rd Street across from Mingalar Football Stadium

30th Street between 70th and 71st Streets

Clubs Disclaimer: the two ‘clubs’ in Mandalay do not equate to anything you would find in Ibiza or even Bangkok, for that matter.

But if you want loud music, drunk dancing 20-somethings and bad lighting then Mandalay’s clubs have got you covered.

• Pioneer - Pioneer is located on the outskirts of town in an area where many clubs have come and gone due to noise violations. But at the moment, Pioneer is going strong with a spacious dance floor and loud, thumping club music. The vibe is casual and there is no dress code but the youth come here dressed to impress- think K-pop hairstyles on the guys and short skirts on the girls!

35th Street between 53rd and 54th Streets

• Box Bar – This warehouse-like building has a DJ spinning tunes most nights of the week and attracts a young crowd. Part of its lure may be its quirky decorations that make for great selfies- where else in Myanmar can you pose with an Eiffel-tower shaped hooka, cloud-like illuminated chairs and colourful shots served

in test tubes? If the music gets to be too much, escape to the rooftop for a moonlit drink.

Moe Kyo Road, between 54th and 55th Streets and 39th and 40th Streets.

Bars There are a number of recently opened bars that attract the ‘see and be seen’ crowd. The food tends to be average at best, but the attraction is the cocktails, crowd and – in the summertimeair conditioning. Expect to pay 3,000 Ks and upwards for mixed drinks. (Note: aside from Mandalay Rum, it is best to avoid the local spirits unless you want a wicked hangover the following morning.)

• Lot 65 - One of the first real bars on the Mandalay scene, Lot 62 serves up some of the tastiest cocktails- try the mojitos- in town. The colourful shot trays and ‘bottle mixes’ are also popular, if a bit sweet. The dark interior borders on industrial but the music helps create a fun, casual vibe.

Corner of 41st and 65th Streets

• Cheers Bar- The downstairs area is bland but does have a high-quality pool table- a rarity in Mandalay. The real attraction is the rooftop where low sofas and ambient music provide a chilled atmosphere. The bar is famous for its house cocktail which comes served in a funky urn-type jug. It’s a bit sweet and expensive (18,000 for one jug) but thankfully there are other cocktails and beers on the menu.

63rd Street between 40th and 41st Streets

• Central Park- This casual bar instantly became an expat favourite when it opened in 2013. The quirky décor, friendly owner and well-priced cocktails are the main draw with a good happy hour from 5.30-7.30 nightly. The western foodburgers, pizzas and quesadillas- is also worth mentioning.

27th Street between 68th and 69th Streets

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Wellness

Budget to High-Brow Spas in Yangon Dominic Horner guides us through a spa tour of Yangon. From the everyday affordable to opulence and luxury.

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There’s no shortage of choice for massage and spa treatments in Yangon. We’ve lost track of the number of massages, facials, hot stones, and beauty treatments we’ve had over the last couple of weeks in our quest to deliver a definite cross section of what’s on offer in Yangon. Now, here we are, thoroughly mellowed and ready to share with you: The MYANMORE guide to spas of various price and style.

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Wellness

Budget Option Sa Bai Dee

26 C Nawaday street/ 73 Than Lwin Street, Kamaryut Township/ 223 Maharbandoola Garden Street Kyauktada Township. Spa Massage Guide_Sabaidee A popular, cheap and cheerful spa in Dagon township, Sa Bai Dee is a decidedly no-frills option. You’ve got foot massage or you’ve got… foot massage.

Well, at least that’s what they say. If you request politely that the focus of your massage be on your arms shoulders and head, they can do that – but that’s really it. That said, we’ve always been happy with our treatment at Sa Bai Dee. You get the standard green tea, the WI-FI’s pretty good, they’re open till late, (last booking’s at 10pm) the masseuses know what they’re doing and for k6,000 you can’t really go wrong. With only one item on the menu and something of a production line vibe, this is obviously not the place to feel like a pampered prince/ princess. Still, it’s great value and the massage cuts the mustard.

Mon-Sunday — 11pm (last booking at 10pm) Price: Ks 6,000 Private Rooms: No Wi-Fi: Yes PH: 0932105450

Midrange Health Blessing

Two Spas on 19th Street –Lower Block In and around Chinatown there are more than enough spas to choose from but this is our personal favourite.

We’ve been there more than half a dozen times for various treatments and we’ve yet to be disappointed.

You’ll pay a bit more than you normally would for a downtown massage (excluding manicures and pedicures, K10,000 is the cheapest option on the menu) but the old adage “you get what you pay for,” rings true in this case. There’s no Wi-Fi, but with the standard this high, why would you need it? The service is friendly and

attentive, the spa is clean and well maintained and the ambience remains chilled despite the very un-chilled environment outside – Recommended.

Monday to Saturday 10:30am — 12am (last booking at 11pm) Sunday: 5pm — 12am Price: Ks 10,000 – Ks 29,000 Private Rooms: No Wi-Fi: No PH: 0932105450

Miyako Clinic

446/444 Merchant Road Botahtaung Township Japanese owned, run and themed, Miyako run a welcoming and professional spa in downtown Yangon. As you’d expect, the treatments have something of a Japanese flavour – the Shiatsu is particularly good – but they’ve also got a wide range of treatments and have just added hot stone to the menu. While Miyako isn’t quite up there with the very best in town, they’re reliably great and provide decent value for money. The customer service is also very good and the staff usually speak a smattering of English. There’s no Wi-Fi but if the spa’s friendly owner Chei is around, she’ll let you hot spot her phone. A solid all-rounder.

Monday- Friday: 11am — 10pm (last booking at 9pm) Saturday/Sunday: 10am — 10pm (last booking at 9pm) Price Range: Ks 800 – Ks 30,000 Private Rooms: No WI-FI: No PH: 09259781636

Something a Bit Different Genky Clinic

Bo Aung Kyaw / No 64 12th Street – Upper Block Spa Massage Guide GenkyGenky is a Japanese owned spa that specializes in blind massage. They recruit from Yangon and Sagaing region and the masseuses live and work in and around the spa. The staff are provided with

bread, board and we’re told, a competitive wage. They’re also, clearly, trained exceptionally well. Unsurprisingly there isn’t a massive list of treatments to choose from, you’ve got foot massage; body massage; and foot and body massage. But the emphasis at Genky is on quality, not quantity and on that front the spa scores highly.

Last time we were there we had the foot & body combo and while the foot massage was a teeny bit on the harsh side, the body massage left us like big floppy jellyfish. Despite having a little bit of a sterile atmosphere, the spa is well equipped with decent facilities and massage beds as well as wifi. The prices are also very reasonable (45 minute massage for K5,000. Not bad at all). If all this wasn’t enticing enough, Genky does home delivery.

If you live downtown, for a few extra thousand kyat, Genky will organize a masseuse to visit you and massage you from the comfort of your own home . It should go without saying that tipping generously is a good idea.

9am — 9pm (last booking at 8pm) Price Range: Ks 5,000 – Ks 13,000 Private Rooms: No WI-FI: Yes PH: Bo Aug Kyaw – 098615036/ 12th street – 0973145681

Top End Sense Spa

269, Room 3, Yan Aung Lane 1, Yankin Township This one’s a real hidden gem. Tucked away behind the Yankin center, Sense Spa offers some of the best and most unusual treatments in Yangon. On first impression, it seems to be firmly in the traditional Thai massage mould - that is, until you start looking through the menu. The choices on offer at Sense are wide ranging and genuinely eclectic. They include but are not limited to: Aloe Vera massage; milk massage; four-handed massage; honey massage; gold leaf facial. Yes, really.

Gold leaf. On our last visit we tried the black herb compress, (a bizarre combo of aromatherapy, hot stone and traditional Thai) and it was fantastic.

For those who like their massage a bit out there and don’t mind coughing up a bit, Sense is a real find.

Daily: 11am — 11pm (last booking at 10pm) Price Range: Ks 7,000 - Ks 45,000 Private Rooms: Yes WI-FI: Yes PH: 01549993

Inya Day Spa

16/2 Inya Road, Kamayut Township/ Star City, Building A5, Wing C Thanlyin Township/ Building No 17, 3rd floor, Junction Square, Sanchaung Township.

If you’re looking to be pampered look no further. The décor and design scream opulence, the staff are professional and thorough and the monthly packages are just about unbeatable. Every month the spa offers brand new packages that usually fall somewhere between the K60,000 – K130,000 range. The last time we went we had a two-hour oil massage and facial combo for K80,000 and we left feeling extremely positive about everything. You get the usual complimentary tea and coffee and the spa sells fresh juice and smoothies as well.

Needless to say, this isn’t the place for those who like to keep it frugal. The basic Thai massages and foot scrubs aren’t too expensive, but really, if you make the effort to go somewhere like Inya, it’s worth treating yourself a bit.

The spa doesn’t stay up late (the final booking’s at 6.30pm) so it’s best to call in advance.

Daily: 10am — 8pm (last booking at 6:30pm) Price Range: Ks 13,00 – Ks 100,000 + Private Rooms: Yes WI-FI: Yes PH 01-537907

MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016 / 55

myanmore card deals Restaurants 999 Shan Noodle House - 10% off total bill - Valid on weekends only, 1 pax per card Bulgogi Brothers - 10% off total bill - Free-flow coke, sprite & max orange - No room charge and no corkage fee - Valid everyday The Corriander Leaf - 15% off total bill - Valid everyday Cousins Bar & Grill - 20% off total bill - Valid everyday, 10 pax per card DiVINO - 10% off total bill for lunch and dinner - Valid everyday, max. 4 pax per card, advanced booking required - Not valid for set menu, business lunch and promotions Edo Zushi Japanese Restaurant - 10% off total bill - Valid everyday, 1 group per card, advanced booking required Eliq Restaurant - 10% off total bill - Valid everyday, 1 pax per card, advanced booking required Fish & Co - 10% off total bill - Not valid with any other promotion; valid at Fish & Co. Myanmar (Parami Outlet) and for dining only; valid everyday, advanced booking required; - Valid for same table/ same group Green Elephant Restaurant (Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan) - 5% off total bill - Valid everyday Gringo Chilangos - 5% off total bill (excluding any happy hour 2-for-1 purchase) - Valid for individual or group bill (max. 10 pax) - Offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other pre-existing discount arrangements the cardholder may have with Gringo Chilangos - Valid everyday, max. 10 pax per card Harley’s - Buy a regular set meal menu and upsize for free - Valid everyday, 2 pax per card L’Opera Italian Restaurant and Bar - 10% off a la carte bill (not valid for set menu, business lunch and promotions) - 10% off “Romantic Packages” (for couples) - Valid everyday, for up to 8 pax, cash payment only La Carovana - 10% off total bill - Valid everyday (closed on Mondays), 6 pm - 11 pm Mahlzeit - Free dessert after main dish purchased.

- Cash payment only, advanced booking required, valid 1 pax. per card

56 / MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016

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The Pizza Company - 10% discount everyday (cannot be used with other promotions) - Valid for 1 [ax per card - Deals applicable to the following outlets: Dagon Center 1- Myaynigone Ocean Shwe Gon Daing- Tamwe Junction Junction Maw Tin Myanmar Plaza Vintage Luxury Yacht Hotel - 15% off food and drinks - Valid everyday, for 10 pax

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Cafes D Bistro - 15% off on all types of coffee before 12 pm (weekdays only) - 10% off total bill - Valid everyday, 1 pax per card Gusto Cafe - 10% off total bill - Valid everyday, 1 pax per card Nervin Cafe and Bistro - 15% off on all beverages - Valid on weekdays, 1 bill per card (cannot be combined with other discounts and promotions)

Enjoy greater discounts and privileges with your Myanmore Card. To sign up, log on to myanmore.com

Swensen’s - 10% discount everyday (cannot be used with other promotions) - Valid for 1 pax per card - Deals are applicable to the following outlets: Dagon Center 1 - Myaynigone Ocean Shwe Gon Daing - Tamwe Junction Junction Maw Tin Myanmar Plaza

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Meringue Cafe - 30% off total bill from 2 pm to 5 pm, every Monday - Promotion is for dine-in customers only - Terms & conditions apply

The Bodyguard - A hair salon and massage parlour designed by men, for men only - 15% off from 10:30 am to 5:30 pm - Valid everyday, 2 pax per card

Cafe @ Residence 26 - 10% discount on food & beverage - Not valid for promotions - Valid everyday, 5 pm - 9 pm, max. 2 pax per card

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Yangon Hair & Beauty Center - 20% off any single treatment - 10% off packages - Valid weekdays, 1 pax per card Yves Rocher Spa - 10% off total bill - Valid everyday, one pax per card Sapel Spa @ Hotel 63 - 2 beers or cocktails after spa treatment - Valid for all days - Valid for 1-5 pax per card

Gyms Balance Fitness - 15% off 6-months or 1-year membership contract - Discount cannot be used with other promotions - Valid everyday, 1 pax per card Chatrium Health Club - 10% savings rate - Valid everyday, 2 pax per card, advance booking required

Shopping Daily Mart - Free delivery for orders up to 30,000 Ks - 5% off total bill for orders above 30,000 Ks - Min. delivery: 10,000 Ks - Valid everyday, 9 am - 5 pm,1 pax per card Monument Books - A bookstore known for its wide selection of English language books - 15% off on weekdays, 10% off on weekends - Valid everyday, 1 pax per card Patrick Robert The Gallery - 10% discount for all showroom items - Export orders and credit card payments not included - Valid everyday (closed Sundays), 1 pax per card

Hotel Red Canal - 10% off spa treatments (ladies only) - 10% off total bill at the Garden Restaurant - 2 pax per card, advanced booking required Inle Lotus Hotel - 20% off total bill, including ticketing, rentals, trekking - Valid everyday, 3 rooms per card, advanced booking required Orchid Hotel - 10% off on all published room rates - 10% off restaurant charges - Free fruit tray upon arrival - Valid from Sundays to Thursdays, 1 pax per card, advanced booking required Platinum Hotel (4 outlets in Yangon) - 20% off on published room rates - Valid everyday, 1 room per card, at Hotel Platinum Tamwe Mini Platinum Guesthouse Bahan Platinum Riverview Hotel Dagon Royal Platinum Hotel Bahan Thahara (www.thahara.com) - 5% off published rates for all package bookings from October to April - 10% off published rates for all package bookings from May to September - Valid everyday, 2 pax per card, advanced booking required

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Thahara - 5% off on the published rates for all package bookings from Oct to April - 10% off on the published rates for all package bookings from May to Sep - Valid everyday, advanced booking required, 2 pax per card

The Warehouse - 15% off total bill - Valid everyday, 1 pax per card

Vintage Luxury Yacht Hotel - 10% off all room rates - Valid everyday

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Services Hintha Business Center - One hour free wifi + a cup of gourmet coffee once a month - 10% off meeting room rentals - 10% off hot-desking packages (daily, weekly, monthly) - 2-for-1 on hourly hot-desking rental - Valid everyday, 1 pax per card, advanced booking recommended TOP SPEED Auto Services - 15% off (discount for labour only) for Body Work and Painting - 50% off (discount for labour only) for Oil Change and Compute Diagnostics - 10% off (discount for labour only) for all repair services - Valid from Mon - Sat, 9 am - 5 pm, 2 pax per card

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E V E N T

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4TH

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58 / MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016