MYANMORE Magazine - No.3/ Jan 2017

www.myanmore.com

Yangon, Mandalay & Beyond

No. 3 / Jan 2017 It’s free!

magazine

COMING UP FOR AIR: MAYCO NAING more action more news more lifestyle

indepth

2

contents

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What’s on 4 Chinese New Year Highlights 7 Chinese New Year Events & Promos 8 Valentine's Promos 9 Film 10 New Openings 12

Cover Story

Travel / Culture

briefings 14 cover story 18 Coming Up For Air: Mayco Naing indepth

Art & Culture 26 U Nyo Lay: Myanmar's First Bottle Artist Travel / Culture 28 A Voyage Through Time Travel / Drive 34 The Spice Road Classic 2016: Cambodia-Thailand-Myanmar Walking the Streets of Yangon 44 39th Street Travel / Culture 48 Finding Animism and Ethnic Tribes in Kayah State Travel / Adventure 52 Trekking near Mandalay

18

28

Travel / Drive

Travel / Culture

edits/guides

Festivals 54 Chinese New Year Celebrations and Preparations: The Year of the Rooster Visa Run 58 Kolkata in 72 hours Dining 64 Outdoor Dining Mandalay & Beyond 65 Cooking Up A Storm in Mandalay Food Review 66 Taing Yin Thar Mocktails 68 Mocktails Better Than Booze for Dry January Financial Advice 70 Medical Insurance for Families Myanmore Card Deals 72

34 Managing Director Andreas Sigurdsson Editor & Illustrator Ben Hopkins Creative Director Richie Chan Contributors Andrew Wood Bob Percival Htun Lyn Zaw Korakat Nym Punlopruksa Marie Starr Martyn Brown Susan Bailey

Cover photo Mayco Naing (self portrait)

Photography Marie Starr Martyn Brown Mayco Naing Thiri May Thu Art & Production Kyaw Kyaw Tun Hein Htet Publisher MYANMORE Magazine Pyit Thiri Thaw Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited 01588 Printer Myanmar Consolidated Media Ltd. Head Office: 379/383 Bo Aung Kyaw St., Kyauktada Tsp., Yangon, Myanmar Publisher No. 00876

48 Sales & Advertising sales@myanmore.com 0977 900 3701 / 3702

content and experiences for residents of Yangon to enjoy and explore.

About Myanmore Myanmore is a registered brand under Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited providing digital and print publishing as well as creative services.

Myanmore is managing the leading online city guide www. myanmore.com and the printed publications Weekly Guide, EnjoyIt, KnowIt and DRIVE. Recently, we have also launched digital platforms such as Myanmore and Sarmal (restaurants & bars in Myanmar) mobile apps. The mission is to provide great

Disclaimer No part of this publication can be reproduced or transmitted in any form without prior written permission from Myanmore. All details are deemed correct at the time of print.

The editor, employees and contributors cannot be held responsible for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions that may occur. www.myanmore.com www.facebook.com/ myanmore

MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016 / 3

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What’s On

Yangon

14 Jan - 4 Feb 10 am - 5 pm

Wolfgang Laib Where the Land and Water End Art & Stage

2015 Praemium Imperiale recipient and celebrated artist of our time Wolfgang Laib brings to Yangon an extraordinary exhibition at The Secretariat. In collaboration with local authorities and organizations, this exhibition marks a milestone in the mysterious building's history and in the discipline of art.

The Secretariat - Thein Phyu Road, Botahtaung Tsp.

Listings

Stay Informed

Add or report a listing? Tell us!

09 779 003 701 / 702 sales@myanmore.com

Subscribe to our twice-a-week e-newsletter and keep yourself up to date! www.myanmore.com

Yangon

20-22 Jan 9 am - 5 pm

International Tourism Expo 2017 Business

With support from the Myanmar Tourism Federation, this event organized by Travel Support Co. Ltd. invites the general public who are interested in the field of tourism.

Tatmadaw Exhibition Hall - U Wizara Road, Dagon Tsp.

21 Jan

6.30 pm - 8 pm

Slam Express 5 Activities

Yangon

21-25 Jan 9 am - 5 pm

Yangon Zoo 111th Year Anniversary Activities

The first 111 people will receive a special present from the zoo and there will be lots of fun games, unplugged music and magic show performances, painting competition and so many other exciting activities. You are all invited; see you there!

Yangon Zoological Garden - Zoological Garden Road, Kan Yeik Thar Road, Mingalar Taung Nyunt Tsp.

Read a poem, a prose, perform anything you want. From the heartbreaking poem you wrote to the hilarious prose you have. Let your spoken words be angry, be kind, be hilarious, be heartbreaking, be thought-provoking, be unique, be awesome and be you. Or come and listen to those performances. Free Admission.

Pansuriya Gallery - 102, Bogalazay St., Botahtaung Tsp.

21 Jan

10 pm - 2 am

Ekis' Reggae at the Penthouse Nightlife

Reggae night is back again at the Penthouse. Ekis is playing. The usual laughter, fun and best memories are gonna be created. RSVP via: 09 771 239924.

The Penthouse - 217-273 Bargarya Road, ParkSide One Building, 8th Floor, Sanchaung Tsp.

22 Jan

9 am - 4 pm

Paperless Job Fair 2017 Business

4 / MYANMORE magazine #3 Jan 2017

The first paperless job fair in Myanmar organized by work.com.mm. For this event, job seekers do not need to bring their CV form and they can submit their personal data through digital media. There will be 36 companies at the event. Open to everyone.

International Business Center (IBC) - No. 88, 6.5 mile, Hlaing Tsp.

22 Jan

12 pm - 3 pm

Boutique Brunch Dining

Enjoy a relaxed Sunday over freshly-cooked creations from the kitchen.

USD 33.- per person for unlimited menu items including free flow of drinks (wine, beer, soft drinks, coffee).

Savoy Hotel Yangon - 129, Dhammazedi Road, Bahan Tsp.

22 Jan 3 pm - 7 pm

FcIG Photowalk Art & Stage

Featured Collectives' very first photowalk altogether with Instagrammers. The photowalk will start from Mahabandoola Park at 3 pm. Hope you guys enjoy shooting. Contact Person: Aung Zaw Myo (09 979525518) Mahabandoola Park - in front of City Hall, Kyauktada Tsp.

25 Jan

9 am - 11 am

The New Silk Road: China's One Belt One Road Strategy Business

The Australia-Myanmar Chamber of Commerce invites you to an exclusive briefing event where you will have the exciting opportunity to hear from Andre Wheeler (Wheeler Management) and Ross Bray (Austrade) about the Chinese One Belt One Road strategy and how it will impact on supply chains

INNWA RD

MYO

RD PAT DAW

AUNG MINGALAR BUS STATION

RD AIN .3 M NO

Defense Golf Club

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D ROA MAIN NO.1

What’s On

LOWER MINGALARDON RD

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RD GI AR IB WA

G City Golf Resort

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Yangon

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RD

G Golf Driving Range

RD OO HT BA UE HM BO

IN DU ST RIA LR D

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Rose Garden Hotel Yangon - 171 Upper Pansodan Road, Mingalar Taung Nyunt Tsp.

G Myanmar Golf Club

NG AU TN YIN BA

W TA

D NR WI MA SO EY EIN

RD

ST

D MA R DHA MIN

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N YA I ZA WA

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D DA R AGO NG P KAU MOE

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Make Sense Entertainment Event Art & Stage

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Botahtaung Pagoda

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MA NP YA ER D

MYO

RD

SHU KHIN THA

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PAT RD

MY IN

TA W

NA ND AR MIN 57TH ST

55TH ST 56TH ST

54TH ST

51ST ST

52ND ST

AN AW MA RR D

RD

21 Jan

Ocean Super Center

SANDA KOO ST

MERCHANT RD

53RD ST

50TH ST 49TH ST

46TH ST

47TH ST

48TH ST

BO MYAT TUN ST

41ST ST 42ND ST

43RD ST

Gamone Pwint Pansuriya

44TH ST

ST

39TH ST 40TH ST

SEIK KAN THA

Police

BO AUNG KYAW ST

PANSODAN ST

TO DALA

37TH ST 38TH ST

MAHA BANDOOLA RD

BO TA HTAUNG PAGODA RD

14 Jan

City Mart

SECRETARIAT BUILDING

BO GALAY ZAY ST

33RD ST 34TH ST

Sikh Temple

MA HA BA ND OO LA BR IDG E

Pansodan Art Gallery

River Gallery 1&2

HT UP AR YO NR D

AN YA RDA LA RD

ST

YAR ZA DlRlT ST

NG AU BO MIN Y

ER PAZUNDAUNG RD UPP

KUN CHAN RD

BO TA HTAUNG ZAY ST

ST

10 Feb

CITY HALL

PANSODAN FERRY TERMINAL

PAZU N DAUN G CR EEK

KYAIK KA SAN ST

BO

UH TU NM YA T

TH UM AN A

BOGYOKE AUNG SAN RD St. Mary's Cathedral (Catholic)

Lokanat Art Gallery

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DA UN G

ST SE

CHO ST

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NG AR H TAT

UPPER PANSODAN RD

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City Mart

ANAWRAHTA RD

22 Jan

TH AD AR YO NR D

2.30 pm - 5.30 pm

7 ZA Y ST

MYANMA GON YE ST

Yangon Central Railway Station

SULE PAGODA

RD

Market

MYA YAR GONE

AUNG SAN STADIUM

Police

ZIN GA MA

YO NR D

KH AIN GS HW EW AR RD

RD

RD ANAWRATHA

YANKIN RD NG

ST GARDEN AL GLC OLO ZO B

A AL DMingalar

Yuzana Plaza

City Mart

Myanmar Ink Art Gallery

SULE PAGODA RD

29TH ST 30TH ST

BO SON PAT ST

Bengali Sunne Jameh (Mosque)

SHWE BON THA ST

25TH ST 26TH ST

Musmeah Yeshua Synagogue

YANGON RIVER

27TH ST 28TH ST

SHWE DAGON PAGODA RD

KON ZAY DAN ST

21ST ST 22ND ST

23RD ST 24TH ST

20TH ST

LA THA ST

28 Jan

Kheng Hock Keong (Chinese Temple)

Theingyi Market

AR NY BA ST

Parkson's Dpt Store FMI

CHINA TOWN

Police

25 Jan

DAW THElN TlN

RD

AU NG THU KH A

ROA D

EAST HORSE RACE COU RS E

THAYAWADDY LA NE

CHIN RD KO

OLD YAY TAR SHAY ST

A RD GOD N PA DAGO SHWE ST ZAY

RD NT NYU YAR BO

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MIN

Cathedral of Holy Trinity (Anglican) Yangon General Hospital Sri Kali (Hindu Temple) 17TH ST 18TH ST

13TH ST 14TH ST

15TH ST 16TH ST

PHONE GYI ST

SHWE TAUNG TAN ST

11TH ST 12TH ST

9TH ST 10TH ST

HLEDAN ST

7TH ST 8TH ST

5TH ST 6TH ST

WAR TAN ST

LAN THIT ST

KAING DAN ST

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B

RD

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DH AM AR

KA NY EIK THAR RD

THEIN BYU SPORT GROUND

Novotel Yangon Max - 4th Floor, 459 Pyay Road, Kamaryut Tsp.

K MOE YEI

28 Jan

Police

KANDAWGYI NATURE PARK

Shangri-La Residence

21 Jan T GS UN KA

AYER WUN MAIN

ST

KARAWEIK PALACE RESTAURANT

ZOOLOGICAL GARDEN

British Club

BOGYOKE MARKET

YMCA

City Mart

BOGYOKE PARK

KANDAWGYI LAKE

IN M

R

IN

O PH

KANDAWGYI PARK

ST DAY WA T NA IS GY MIN W YA Nawaday Thalar Art Gallery

Gallery 65

BO YWE ST

ST

AUNG YA DANR ST 1ST ST 2ND ST 3RD ST 4TH ST

New Zero Art Space

Think Gallery

City Mart Fitness Express

WAR TAN JETTY

T AS TR

NATIONAL THEATER

BOGYOKE AUNG SAN RD

Junction Mawtin

N PA

20 18 Jan Feb

MYO MA KYAUNG RD

Sein Gay Har

MIN YE KYAW SWA RD

G AR DE N M YA

RD RA IZA ST UW NG

A

UMFCCI

THA KHIN MYA PARK

10 Feb

ZAGAWAR ST

Taw Win Center

ST

KH IN

KY EE IN HN

NE GO SI

ST MAN

TA THAN

LAN MA LAN MADAW DAW ST ST

ST

Trish Gallery NATIONAL MUSEUM RD MAR PADO

Central Women's Hospital

TH A

W TA

ST PIN AY AY KH

MIN

YE

AW KY

A SW

RD THA YEIK

T NA

BOGYOKE AUNG SAN MUSEUM

G A

ST UK MA

NAT MAUK RD

ST TAWYA GYAR

RD

ST

RD WIN TAW

RD

I KY R WE LO

G SU DAUN PYI

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Goethe Institute

BAHAN ST 1 BAHAN ST 2 BAHAN ST 3

SHWE DAGON PAGODA NG BO U HTAU

RD BAHO RD ING DA IN MY

NE RD AHLO

The Avenue

AT GYI PAGO HT DA T S

Bahan Women Hospital

FISH AND TURTLE LAKE

NE RD AHLO

Yangon MA NAW HARI Children Hospital

RD AR NN KA NG AI ND YI M

IT TH

RD RA IZA UW

RD PYAY

Yangon Art Gallery A

SlNT OO DAN ST 19TH ST

UPPER KYEE MYIN DAING RD

PEOPLE'S PARK AND PEOPLE'S SQUARE

NI ST

KO M IN

MYANMAR CULTURE VALLEY

Asia Royal Hospital

Sakura Hospital

AR RZ A

ST KABAR IN

26 Jan

IN SH

RD

KABAR ST IN

City Mart

PU

SAYA S AN

W

KHATTAR ST

W SA

AR

GYI PAG ODA ST

THAMAIN BAYAN RD

Ocean Super Center

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Monument Book Store

WE GON D SH AIN G RD

Police

Police

Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda (Reclining Buddha) ING RD N TA E GO SHW

DHAMMAZEDI RD

22 Jan

BARGAYAR RD

SAN CHAUNG ST

THA NA YEIKTHA ST

Marchetti Furniture

THElN BYU ST

G

INYA MYAING ST

RD

CHIN DWIN

WE SH

Dagon Gamone Center Pwint

Market Place

D LI R

KYAIKKASAN GROUNDS

Real FitnessHASI THA

KAB AR AYE PAGODA RD

THAN LWIN RD

ST TONE THA H ST

Australian Club

R ST YA

The Australia-Myanmar Chamber of Commerce invites you to get a new sharing experience and a happy Thursday night. Free entrance. Join in Australian tunes and a bunch of cobba's sharing a few yams.

Super One

Pearl Condo

Pro Mart

SHWE TAUN G

RD PYAY

KYUN TAW

RD

RD

PO

RD

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A AR IZ W

ST MYAY NU

Patrick Robert A Gallery

RD

INYA

Sakura Residence 1&2

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Institut MA KYEE KYEE ST Francais

21 Jan

ST

KOKKINE SWIMMING CLUB

E AN BL CLU ING WIMM ING S KOKKA

Pandora

Golden Valley A Art Center

A New Treasure Art Gallery

GYI ST

AR PAN W

UNIO NL

Business

City Mart

RD YAR

MA

ZAW

Hanthawaddy Roundabout

T KANBAWZA S

G UN MA

Junction Square

IT CH

Bin 64 Wine Shop

Swiss Time Square

RD

Yankin Center RD AN AS SAY

RD

ANE

26

RD

Australia Day Beer & BBQ

D RR NA DA YA

AR PYI TH

U

A Gallery

26 Jan

HA NT HA WA DD YR D

RD SHIN YAN

NEW U NIVERS ITY AVEN UE

Inya Art

TAW RD

IN DU ST RIA L

YA AUNG ZAY

45TH ST

Balance Fitness

NO .1

Myanmar Plaza

THElN BYU ST

UNI VER SITY AVEN UE RD

LAR ST GA N

THAR ST

KABAR AYE PAGODA RD

INYA RD

AUNG SAN SU KYI HOUSE

INYA MYAING RD

HL

RD

A OD AG ALAN PYA P

UNIVERSITY A VENUE

Sein Gay Har

MYA KYUN THAR

26 Jan

ST EAST HORSE RACE COURSE

ER RIV

Yangon University

28 Jan

Aqua Inya Golf Driving Range

R TA IT MY

Atlas Rooftop Bar & Lounge - 84, Pan Hlaing Road, Sanchaung Tsp.

RD

5 pm - 8 pm

Beik Thano Gallery A

35TH ST 36TH ST

G AIN HL

KABAR AYE

INYA LAKE

Yangon Sailing Club

PUN HLAING HOSPITAL

T NAR NA

D ER NB KA

PAGODA RD

PYAY RD

RD INSEIN YANGON

KAN ST

Hledan Market

RD

D RR TA

22 Jan

R ST LA AR M

R SA

RD

KANBE STATION RD

N HI

IT TH

RD

O AS AM BY

ST

MAHABANDOOLA GARDEN RD

) WAR RD SHWE (KHAING BAHO RD

ST

International SOS Clinic A TH

Myanmar Yachting Federation

I MI THIR

RD

U HT

NY EI N

KAN YEIK THAR

LAR ST MAR

EIK PYI Y

AR M

A Myanmar Deitta

U

RD

G UN YA IK G

U TH

A KH

N

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AN ED

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Parami Hospital

American Club

HLAING THAR YAR HIGHWAY BUS STATION

STATION RD

GEMS MUSEUM

RD

Atlas Rooftop Bar & Lounge will provide three different classical movies to choose from for the First Open Air Rooftop Cinema Night in Myanmar.

Free entrance.

AN TH

AY M

W YA

Gamone Pwint

Kabar Aye Pagoda

PA RA MI

HLAING CAMPUS

MICT PARK

RIV ER

Nightlife

E G ID BR MI RA PA

Okkala Golf Course

ZA WAI

PYI THU T S

RD TAR YAN

PYAY RD

Nordic Diplomatic Office

TO FMI CITY / PUN HLAING ESTATE

HL AIN G

Cinematic Cocktail Thursday

D NR LO PIN

TO VICTORIA HOSPITAL (3 KM)

TO YANGON INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (5 KM)

PARAM I RD

PU N

7 pm - 10 pm

RD EE HT WE SH

PAGODA RD

RD

Thiri Mingalar Market

26 Jan

RD DA GO PA

A RD AGOD AYE P KABA

ONE TARY INE BU THAM

RD

T IK S SE ON KP OA

31ST ST 32ND ST

K AI KY

RD AR SW

IRIT AD RZ YA

PIN TA

Junction 8

E IN W

AW KY YE

D AR AR IS UW

RD AY PY

YANGON TECHNOLOGICAL UNIVERSITY

MIN

SH UK HIN THA RR D

10 Mile Market

PYAY RD

THAR LARW ADD YR D

POR TR D

AR M DA

ZAYA WA DD YR D

E

RD

MO

DA

YANGON AI R

RD

PY AY

RD

Y MA

R LA

A

RM

RD

E ON RY TA BU EIN INS

NG

U TH

SAW BWAR GYI GONE BUS STATION

RD

in Myanmar. Join them to discuss these issues. | RSVP : Free for Members and 20,000MMK for Non-Members, please confirm your attendance by registering before 5pm Tuesday 24 January 2017.

CR

YANGON INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

N TIO STA DIO RA

HIT NT LA

K

DA MA RR D

PYAY RD

RD PAT

THIRI MINGALAR RD

The competition for Make Sense Entertainment’s Royal Model and Q10 brand model. There will be 5 awards for the outstanding models.

O G BA

ER RIV

Hledan Center, Corner of Pyay Road and Hledan Road, Kamaryut Tsp.

STRAND RD/ KAN NAR LAN

BOTAHTAUNG JETTY

MYANMORE magazine #3 Jan 2017 / 5

now

What’s On

Listings

Stay Informed

Add or report a listing? Tell us!

09 779 003 701 / 702 sales@myanmore.com

Subscribe to our twice-a-week e-newsletter and keep yourself up to date! www.myanmore.com

18-19 Feb

Yangon

10 am - 6 pm

28 Jan

AcroYoga with Lars & Giula

4.30 pm - 7.30 pm

The Sunset Boat Party

Sport

Nightlife

The Boat Party will bring together DJs with swelling beats from House Music to Gypsy, Breaks to Hip Hop and Electro, for a nostalgic Yangon evening out.

Enjoy the delicious food, and hang out on the upper deck, with cold drinks and the cool fresh air whipped off the water. Arrive anytime from 4.30 pm.

Departure time: 5.30 pm (just before sunset). Return time: 8.15 pm. 15,000 Ks (and 1 free beer) The Royal Irrawaddy Boat - Botahtaung Tsp.

Acroyoga Weekend with Giulia & Lars. Beginners are welcome. Come down for the first session on Saturday and see how you'd like to take it from there. USD 40/workshop, USD 75/ workshop if you come as a couple.

2 pm - 5 pm

Management & Leadership Training Education

You will learn skills to become a better leader at work. You will practice motivating different personality types, discover how to develop your team and how to lead even in the times of crisis and difficulties. 250 USD for our members, 350 USD non-members.5-day training program (30 hours in total), divided along 5 Saturdays (6 h/day).

RSVP via contact@ccifrance-myanmar.org.

CCI France Myanmar - Parkside One Building, 271-273 Bargaya St., Sanchaung Tsp.

10-12 Feb 10 am - 1 pm

Kid Fair Yangon 2017 Activities

6 / MYANMORE magazine #3 Jan 2017

Tatmadaw Exhibition Hall - U Wizara Road, Dagon Tsp.

17 Feb

7 pm - 11 pm

A Night with Myo Kyawt Myaing Concert

"A Night With Myo Kyawt Myaing" is the singer's solo music concert and is dedicated to his fans. Let's enjoy the wonderful night with Myo Kyawt Myaing's songs at the National Theatre.

National Theatre of Yangon - Myoma Kyaung St., Dagon Tsp.

10 am - 12 pm

Study in Japan Seminar 2017 Education

Receive face-to-face consultation and get advice about scholarships and examinations when studying in Japan.

We look forward to seeing you and your friends at the fair.

Hotel Mandalay - 78 St., between 37th & 38th St.

18 Feb

28-29 Jan

The 14th Golf Tournament by Myanmar Tourism Marketing

BFace Solo Show

Activities

Join in the fun with food booths, a range of products and services from banks, phamarcy for kids and parents-to-be. Local and international pre-schools and private schools will be participating at this event. There will be games, performances and playground activities. Open to the public.

21 Jan

Beyond Boundaries Yoga Myanmar - 28, Level 3, Bo Yar Nyunt St., Yaw Min Gyi Ward, Dagon Tsp.

10.30 am - 10 pm

Through Feb

Mandalay

The Myanmar Tourism Marketing formally known as Myanmar Marketing Committee is organizing its 14th Annual Golf Tournament on Saturday, the 18th of February 2016 at the Royal Mingalardon Golf & Country Club. The fund raised from this Golf Tournament will go towards marketing and promoting Myanmar for the benefit of entire tourism industry. With respect to this, we kindly request your generous sponsorship of gift vouchers; prizes for players' awards; giveaway goodie bags and/or advertisement board(s) to display your company’s corporate identity.

Royal Mingalardon Golf & Country Club - 3, Highway Road, Mingalardon Tsp.

10 am - 5 pm

Art & Stage

Bface solo show at Mandalay. For more details via : 09 5197891 Mandalay Hill Art Gallery - at the front of Mandalay Hill, near two Guardian Lions, Aung Myay Thar Zan Tsp.

Taunggyi

20-23 Jan 9 am - 9 pm

Taunggyi Multi-Trade Exhibition Business

Check out the various products at the show and join in the activities such as music and entertainment, lucky draw, and free public seminars. Parking is free.

Taunggyi City Hall - Near Post and Telecom Office

now

What’s On

Chinese New Year Special

Yangon

Special event: Chinese New Year in Yangon 28 - 31 Jan 6 pm - 10 pm

Upper Shin Oo Dan St. - parallel with 19th Street in Chinatown

Highlight: The Kings of Chinatown Activities / Festivals

One of the most thrilling spectacles to check out this Chinese New Year will be the Lion Dancing Competition staged by the Dragon and Lion Dance Federation of Myanmar. Up to 14 teams will be competing over four days for the grand prize of twenty lak (about USD1,500) and an assortment of gifts. Each lion is operated by two dancers and supported by a group of musicians and trainers.

Did You Know?

10 Facts about Lion Dancing 01 In Myanmar, there are nine professional lion dancing teams who compete with one another in up to five major competitions during the lion dancing season, which stretches from October till March.

02 Each team consists of two dancers trained in acrobatics and martial arts and a percussion section consisting of drums, cymbals and gongs.

03 Lion Dance competitions are known to be dangerous, even amongst the professionals. Head injuries and broken bones are commonplace. The last death amongst Myanmar’s 19 registered professionals occurred eight years ago, during a training session.

04 The origins of lion dancing can be traced back to the third century BC where ‘lion acts’ were referred to by a Three Kingdoms scholar Meng Kang in a commentary on Hanshu.

05 There are a number of myths associated with the origin of the Lion Dance: one story relates that the dance originated as a celebration in a village where a mythical monster called Nian was successfully driven away; another has it that the Qianlong Emperor dreamt of an auspicious animal while on a tour of Southern China.

One team to look out for is ‘Long De Chuan Ren’ manned by Zay Gyi and Thar Nge, two of Myanmar’s leading lion dancers. Expect to see breathtaking performances atop a series of small circular platforms set on poles.

Thant Zin Oo, percussionist with the with the ‘Long De Chuan Ren’ team says, “My lion dancers have been training most of their life for this competition. It’s very serious and very dangerous.”

Watching them in action reveals a gravity defying performance of acrobatic skills and mesmerizing movements. The competition is judged based on the skill and liveliness of the "lion" together with the creativity of the stunts and choreographed moves.

06 By the eighth century AD the Lion Dance had reached Japan where it took on its own unique style and became associated with celebrations of the Buddha’s birthday. Today, the Lion Dance can be seen in almost all corners of the world thanks to the global diaspora of Chinese communities.

08 In modern times, the dance has evolved considerably, taking on a more artistic form that takes into account the lion's expression and the natural movements, as well as the development of more elaborate acrobatic styles and skills during performances.

09 The lion dance is seen as a representative part of Chinese culture in many overseas Chinese communities and has been known to cause controversy. For example, in Malaysia, lion dance was criticized by a Malay politician in the 1970s as not Malaysian in style and was banned except at Chinese New Year until 1990. During the Suharto era in Indonesia the Lion Dance procession was considered ‘an affront to Indonesian nationalism’ and consequently banned. This ban was, however overturned after the collapse of the Suharto regime in 1998.

10 Several 1990s movies, including a remade version of "Wong Fei Hung", and the sequels of Once Upon a Time in China, involve plots centered on Lion Dancing, especially Once Upon a Time in China III and IV. The series main actor, Jet Li has performed as a lion dancer in several of his films, including Southern style lion dancing in Once Upon a Time in China III, Once Upon a Time in China and America and Northern style lion dancing in Shaolin Temple 2 and Shaolin Temple 3.

07 Traditionally, the Chinese Lion Dance has close relations to kung fu and the dancers are usually martial art members of the local kung fu club or school.

"Hey, I think we're getting a hang of this dancing lark!"

MYANMORE magazine #3 Jan 2017 / 7

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What’s On / Promotions Chinese New Year Special

12 Jan - 11 Feb

1 - 31 Jan

Sule Shangri-La Hotel All Day

Chatrium Hotel

Festive Dining

All Day

Celebrate the Chinese new year with a delicious A La Carte menu prepared by Chef Pang.

Available from the 12th January to 11th February at the Summer Palace for Lunch and dinner. | RSVP Via : 01 242 828

Festive Dining

Enjoy our delightful Chinese New Year Festive Dishes and win a lucky Ang Pao from the “Tree of Fortune”. Yee Sang Specials (Chinese New Year salad) at USD 30.00 per portion.

9 course Prosperity Chinese Set Menu: minimum order for 6 persons at USD 30.00 per person. | RSVP Via : 01 544 500

223, Sule Pagoda Road, Kyauktada Tsp. 40, Natmauk St., Tamwe Tsp.

27 - 31 Jan Novotel Yangon Max

5 pm / 6.30 pm onwards

Festive Dining

Lion Dance (27 Jan) performed by Hong Teck and Moe Nagar, followed by Yee Sang Show starting from 5 pm.

Dinner (27 -31 Jan) starts at 6.30 pm. Chinese New Year set menu prepared by Chef Raymond. Free flow on selected beverages. Live band and lucky Ang Pao! | RSVP Via: 01 230 5858, 09 2511 85972.

4th Floor, 459 Pyay Road, Kamaryut Tsp.

28 Jan

28 Jan - 11 Feb

Vintage Luxury Yacht Hotel

Micasa Hotel Apartments Yangon

Celebrate the Chinese New Year at Vintage Luxury Yacht Hotel with buffet dinner at our Pirate Restaurant from 6:30 pm onwards. | RSVP Via : 01 90 10 532, 01 90 10 533, 09 250 84 69 74.

Rejoice together with family and friends and enjoy a sumptuous buffet dinner on the last day of Chinese New Year at Tapas Bistro. In additional to our daily buffet, Chinese specialties will be served on Saturday, 11 Feb at USD 24 nett. Get a special offer of 4-come-1-free during this festival from 28 Jan to 11 Feb 2017 | RSVP Via : 01 650 933.

6.30 pm onwards

Festive Dining

6, Botahtaung Jetty, near Botahtaung Pagoda, Botahtaung Tsp.

Dinner

Festive Dining

17, Kabar Aye Pagoda Road, Yankin Tsp.

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What’s On / Promotions

Valentine's Promotions Yangon

Yangon

Chatrium Hotel

Savoy Hotel

Enjoy our classic Valentine’s specials and impress your loved one how much you care and win a chance at our lucky draw.

“Romance under the Stars” Valentine’s Set dinner - USD 199 per couple (complimentary door gift plus a bottle of wine, roses and Valentine’s Day Cake) | RSVP Via : 01 544 500

Only 350 USD for two with a Deluxe room, 4-course dinner for two at the poolside or Shwedagon view, a bottle of Prosecco, a bunch of roses and handmade pralines and transportation inside Yangon for two-ways. RSVP Via: 01 526289, 01 526298, 01 526305

7 pm - 10 pm Festive Dining

All Day Festive Dining

129, Dhammazedi Road, Bahan Tsp. 40, Natmauk St., Tamwe Tsp.

JUICE OF THE MONTH

Strawberry, red apple, watERmelon

www.facebook.com/BarBoonMyanmar

Ngapali

Bayview Beach Resort All Day Festive Dining

Pure romance you'll find your Deluxe Garden View Bungalow from the moment you arrive. Enjoy the lovely room decoration and soak up the charming atmosphere. 4 days/3 nights package with airport transfer, bungalow decoration, daily breakfast buffet for two, romantic 4-course Valentine's Dinner on the beach only for USD 353 per person. RSVP Via: 01 504471.

Ngapali, Rhakine State

MYANMORE magazine #3 Jan 2017 / 9

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Film

Show Times Check up on our weekly guide available at newsstands, restaurants, cafes, bars and other establishments. Or log on to www.myanmore.com

Book Cinema Tickets Online!

Now Showing

01

Now Showing

Now Showing

Now Showing

The Great Wall 01 Action, Adventure, Fantasy A mystery centered around the construction of the Great Wall of China.

Patriots Day 02 Drama, History, Thriller An account of Boston Police Commissioner Ed Davis's actions in the events leading up to the 2013 Boston Marathon bombing and the aftermath, which includes the citywide manhunt to find the terrorists behind it.

TT and Donut (Burmese/Thai Movie) 03 Comedy, Romance A comedy action drama movie directed by Adsatun Sattagovit, starring Pyay T Oo, Chattarika Sittaprom and other amazing actors.

Nga Ba (Burmese Movie) Drama, Action An action movie directed by Khin Saw Myo, starring Kyaw Thu, Kyaw Ye Aung, Min Oo, Nay Myo Aung, Soe Myat

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02

03

Film

now

Now Showing

06

Thuzar and Aye Myat Thu and many others.

Pago Sar Hnint Thu Ei Virus Myar (Burmese Movie) 04 Comedy, Romance A comedy directed by Kyaw Zaw Lin, starring Yan Aung, Kyaw Ye Aung, Yazar Nay Win, Pyay T Oo, Soe Myat Thuzar, Pacteria, Yoon Shwe Yee and many others.

Coming Soon xXx: Return of Xander Cage 05 Action, Adventure, Thriller Xander Cage is left for dead after an incident, though he secretly returns to action for a new, tough assignment with his handler Augustus Gibbons.

06

Raees (Indian Movie) Action, Crime, Thriller Criticizing the prohibition of alcohol, prostitution and illegal drugs

in Gujarat, this film unfolds the story of a cruel and clever bootlegger, whose business is highly challenged by a tough cop. Credit: imdb.com Cinemas in Yangon Junction Maw Tin 01 225 244 Junction Square 01 527 055 Mingalar Sanpya Cineplex 09 260 887 035 — 36, 01 230 3 165 Mingalar Cineplex (Gamone Pwint) 09 779 054 671 — 73 Mingalar Cinema 2(Dagon Centre (II) 09 732 54 091 — 92 Nay Pyi Daw 01 251 277, 01 251 288 Shae Saung Cinema 01 252 113, 01 388 034 Thamada Cinema 01 246 962, 01 246 963 Thwin 01 372 594, 01 388 033 Mega Ace (Tharkayta) 01 556 782 Mega Ace (Tamwe) 01 554 383 Mega Ace (North Okkalapa) 09 971 750 91

Coming Soon

05

Now Showing

04

MYANMORE magazine #3 Jan 2017 / 11

now new openings Yangon

800 Bowls Chinese Restaurant

One to the list of Yangon's best dining experiences for those who crave for western delights. Assortment of desserts and drinks are also available.

Authentic "la mian" (handmade noodle) and xiao long bao (steamed pork dumplings) and wok-fried dishes. Over two floors of dining space.

91/105 (F1) Min Ye Kyaw Zwa Road, Lanmadaw Tsp. 09 771195020

Eclipse Bar & Restaurant 01 4 pm - 2 am Asian Bistro

Yangon's newest hotspot for eating, drinking, socialising and great music located at the 4th floor of Myanmar Plaza.

4th floor, Myanmar Plaza, 192, Kabar Aye Pagoda Road, Bahan Tsp. 09 442477778

Pier 9 Cajun Kitchen 02 American / Seafood

02

12 pm - 3 pm & 5.30 pm - 9.30 pm Western / Fine Dining

11 am - 10 pm Chinese

Corner of Mahabandoola Road and 48th St., Botahtaung Tsp. 01

ORNG Kitchen

Yangon's very first authentic cajun, creole cuisine. Experience true "down south" cajun showcasing their very own Louisiana style seafood boil.

3/A13, Taw Win Road (near Ocean and Victorial Hospital), Mayangone Tsp. 09 977745455

Pirate Bar 03 5 pm - 11.30 pm Bar

The first pirate-style bar in Yangon.

G-9, Asia Business Center, corner of Mahabandoola Road & 47th St., Botahtaung Tsp. (beside 7th Joint Bar & Grill)

The Beer Bar 11 am - 11 pm Asian / Bar

A nice place with outdoor seating where you can seat peacefully with your friends while sipping signature beers... colour beers, Eiffel Tower Beer & clay pot beer.

52A Myint Zu St., Parami Ward, Yankin Tsp. 09 455036024, 09 43033522

Power House Fitness Club Gym

The first full-sized commercial fitness club for all your lifestyle needs.

4th floor, Myanmar Plaza, 192, Kabar Aye Pagoda Road 09 966661389

03

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From founding the College in London in 1619 To opening new campuses in Yangon in August 2017 Inspiration goes a long way.

Dulwich College Yangon is opening purpose-built, state-of-the-art campuses in Pun Hlaing and Star City in August 2017. We are now accepting applications for students from age 2 to 14 for both campuses.

The first school in Myanmar to have a direct link to a British independent school, the prestigous Dulwich College in London, our campuses here join a network of 9 schools across Asia.

To find out more please visit our website www.dulwich-yangon.com.mm or contact our admissions team on (+95) 09 966 423015 or admissions@dulwich-yangon.com.mm. One College, Many Campuses.

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L O N D O N

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B E I J I N G

S U Z H O U

S E O U L

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S I N G A P O R E

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briefings Yangon

Myanmar

Money Matters

Culture

Power to the Kyat!

Dusit Signs 338-Room Hotel in Yangon, Myanmar

Myanmore 2016 closed with the Kyat plummeting to record lows against the dollar, sinking to 1400 at one point. Taking action to raise the currency’s profile National League for Democracy is likely to enforce the rule banning USD transactions, tourism officials say. The central bank has warned businesses including hotels, airlines and private education firms against charging customers in US dollars as it continues its attempt to reduce local demand for the greenback and fight dollarisation.

The Bank’s crackdown on dollar transactions is likely to cause “some problems” for the hotel industry, U Zeyar Myo Aung, Director of Tourism Promotion at the Ministry of Hotels and Tourism, “but for the long term it’s probably better to use the

local currency.” He added that while the Bank’s warning in 2015 was not followed up with any enforcement, this time would likely be different. “I think this time they will try to enforce this instruction because the new government is trying to enforce all the rules and regulations. I think they will try their best to enforce these instructions.”

The Central Bank of Myanmar (CBM) issued a similar warning to businesses in 2015, but the policy was not enforced and the majority of major hotels. U Win Thaw, Director General of Foreign Exchange Management at CBM, told the Xinhua news agency last week that the Bank would “take measures” against businesses who did not comply with the new instruction, though the report did not offer further details.

Myanmore Dusit has signed a management agreement with Myanmar V-Pile Group for a Dusit Thani hotel in Yangon. Located just 15 minutes by car from Yangon International Airport, and approximately 20 minutes’ drive from the city’s main tourist attraction, the Shwedagon Pagoda, the new property will be at the heart of land earmarked by the Myanmar government to become a new business district.

Dusit Thani Yangon will be a mixed-use development incorporating a convention center, offices, retail units and residences.

The hotel will comprise 338 rooms and feature one all-day-dining restaurant, Dusit’s signature Thai restaurant, Benjarong, and one rooftop restaurant and bar.

Meeting facilities will include a 400-seat ballroom with adjoining conference rooms. Guests will also have access to a swimming pool, gym, and the luxurious Devarana Spa.

Myanmar Travel

Myanmar tops CNTraveler's List of Five Warm-Weather Destinations Myanmore

Finally appearing on the radar of revered travel aficionados, this month Conde Naste Traveler listed Myanmar as the number one spot for hide-away warm weather destinations. Their recommendation came as a chilling winter front sets in across the northern hemisphere. Winter sunseekers were guided away from visiting the usual overcrowded beaches of Mexico and the Caribbean, and advised to venture further afield in search of culture, beauty, and adventure. Here’s Conde Naste Traveler’s list in recommended order: #1

#2

Oman

Yangon welcomed 1.3 million international arrivals in 2015, an increase of 15% from 2014, and the figures are only expected to grow as Myanmar continues to open up to foreign investment and tourism. Myanmar’s government is aiming to attract 7.48 million annual visitors to the country by 2020.

The Dusit Thani Yangon is slated to open at the end of 2019.

#1

The Seychelles

The complete antithesis of its flashy neighbor, the United Arab Emirates, this Persian Gulf nation is replete with pristine beaches, lush green oases, breathtaking mountain springs, and a true glimpse into centuries-old Arabian culture. Architecture buffs will love the 500 castles, forts, and historic buildings spread out over this rich country perched on the southeastern tip of the Arabian Peninsula.

Although it comprises 115 islands, the Seychelles has the smallest population of any African nation. That, of course, means miles and miles of pristine, nearly deserted beaches. Its charming capital city, Victoria, located on the island of Mahé, is lined with art galleries, a stunning botanic garden, fascinating temples, and a vibrant market.

#1

This idyllic atoll located near Tahiti and Moorea was adored as the home of the Tahitian royals for centuries. There are 12 islets (or motus, as they are referred to by locals), which were the key recruiting ground for mutineers for the HMS Bounty.

Centuries later, when Hollywood actor Marlon Brando was scouting locations for Mutiny on the Bounty, which told the story of the ill-fated ship, he fell in love with Teti’aroa and raised his children with his wife Tarita Teri'ipaia here.

The Maldives

Thandwe, Myanmar

Still relatively untouched by tourism this beach area is filled with quaint fishing vessels, local handicrafts (weaving and clay pottery being the most popular), and pagodas and monasteries. Jaunts to the nearby islands of Zalat Htone, known for its black-sand beaches, and Pearl Island are an essential part of any trip to this gem of a nation.

Ms Suphajee Suthumpun, Group CEO of Dusit International, said, “Myanmar is a fast-emerging market and we are delighted to partner with Myanmar V-Pile Group for this very special project. This should set us up perfectly for further expansion within the country, including key destinations such as Bagan, Mandalay, and Inle Lake, as well as throughout Southeast Asia in general, where we already have over 20 properties in the pipeline.”

Derived from the Sanskrit words mala (garland) and dvipa (island), the Maldives is a double chain of 26 atolls. Male, the country’s capital city, features historic sites such as Hukuru Miskiiy, a mosque built in 1656, and Muleeaage, an early-20th-century palace.

#1

Teti'aroa, French Polynesia

So, if Conde Nast Traveler says so…then Thandwe is the place to go!

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briefings Yangon

Myanmar

Urban Planning

Business

All Change on the Buses!

Myanmore Navigating Yagnon’s roads can be a bit of a circus at the best of times, and if you find a driver adhering to Zebra Crossing stop rules for pedestrians, please give him a medal. We’ve all held our breath at least 10 times witnessing the racing speeds of buses along Yangon’s streets; the city’s bus networks have been notorious for poor maintenance standards, misconduct of bus staff, and a failure to respect traffic rules.

But that’s all about to change thanks to new systems introduced from January 16; All previous buses and routes stopped running Sunday January 15 to be replaced with nearly 60 bus lines under a new public bus system. A total of eight companies will operate buses under the management of the Yangon Region Transport Authority (YRTA) with the new system called the Yangon Bus Service (YBS).

Yangon chief minister and patron of the YRTA U Phyo Min Thein told media that Jan. 15 will be the last day of operation for the city’s existing 300 bus lines. He said the new system will feature 59 bus lines serving the city’s 5.2 million residents starting next week. New vehicles and a digital payment system will follow.

“Our first step is to reform the system,” he said. “After reforming the system, we will improve the condition of the vehicles, then the security of the buses and the passengers, and the payment system.”

The regional government will finish the whole reform process by the end of 2017, allotting each area three months, he added. According to Daw Nilar Kyaw— Yangon’s minister for electricity, industry, and transportation, who also chairs the YRTA—vehicles manufactured before 1995 will not be allowed under the new public bus system.

Karen Ethnic Affairs Minister for Rangoon Division Naw Pann Thinzar Myo explained that 80 percent of the new bus lines follow existing routes and the other 20 percent are new routes. “There will be no overlapping bus lines in a move to avoid competition among bus conductors,” she explained. “Only three lines will serve downtown to reduce traffic”, she said.

The chief minister said it is hoped that about 3,000 buses will serve the city when the new system is launched. The bus fares will be 100-300 Ks depending on distance.

According to the Japan International Cooperation Agency’s 2014 survey on public transportation in Rangoon, 61 percent of the city’s population relies on public transportation and 49 percent of all commuters use the bus.

As Myanmore went to print, plans were afoot for a new website for the bus routes to be launched and further mobile applications for commuters.

Visa welcomes opening of Myanmar's domestic payments industry Myanmore Visa, the leading global payments technology company, has welcomed today’s announcement from the Central Bank of Myanmar to remove restrictions on the participation of international payments companies in Myanmar’s domestic payments industry, according to a statement on 11 January.

According to Arturo Planell, Country Manager Visa Myanmar, opening up the domestic payments industry will bring significant benefits to consumers, businesses and the overall Myanmar economy.

“This is a landmark announcement that will enable the people of Myanmar to have access to electronic payments that are more convenient, secure and globally accepted. It will also accelerate the country’s shift from a cash based economy to a digital economy, supporting the Myanmar government’s national goals of inclusive economic growth, increased employment, and greater financial inclusion, while reducing the shadow economy,” said Arturo Planell, Country Manager, Visa Myanmar.

Visa is working with its client banks to launch Myanmar’s first Visa credit card for domestic and international use.

As domestic reforms are implemented and international sanctions lifted, Myanmar’s economy is opening up and becoming more globally integrated. GDP is forecast to grow at over 8.3% in 2016, and the cashbased economy will invariably face more international competition, enormous technology challenges and opportunities amidst rising demand from consumers.

Electronic payments in Myanmar are at an early stage of development. The first ATM in Myanmar was installed in November 2011. Although the country now has over 1,500 ATMs it is still a relatively low number given Myanmar’s population of more than 54 million. In comparison, Vietnam with its 90 million population has 17,330 ATMs as at July 2016, as reported by the State Bank of Vietnam.

MYANMORE magazine #3 Jan 2017 / 15

briefings Yangon

Yangon

Retail & Lifestyle

Urban Planning

Bookworms Unite at Yangon's First Book Market

Explore Yangon like a local with a nifty new travel App

Myanmore

Myanmore

In Myanmar it’s almost an insult if you’re an author and your book isn’t on the bootleg street stalls. Elsewhere in the world where bookstores are closing (despite copyright laws), in Myanmar the Japanese book retailer Kinokuniya opened up shop at Yangon Airport’s new international terminal last year, and plans for the ‘largest book mall in Southeast Asia’ were announced.

Addressing the needs of impatient Yagonites, so hungry is the demand for reading here, that Yangon’s first book market already opened this month. Open on weekends from 9 am to 6 pm the market lines the streets with over 100 stalls along Thein Phyu Road from the Secretariat

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compound to the Central Press building.

With rarely a Kindle in sight in Myanmar, collectors should make this new book market a key port of call for rare and vintage book shops.

“The main aim of the book market is to encourage reading and to help promote Myanmar literature. The market will be open throughout the hot [non-rainy] season,” the Ministry of Information’s Deputy Permanent Secretary Myo Myint Maung told The Voice.

Looking for authentic travel experiences in historic Asian cities? Wanting to collect memories and leave only footprints?

You can do both of these with iDiscover City Walks new series of savvy Apps and handy maps. Just download the iYangon App, choose from a variety of walking routes developed by locals who share your passion for adventure, and you’re off! One of Myanmore’s regular contributor’s Bob Percival was involved in the development, so if you’re enjoying his “Streets of Yangon” series, you won’t be disappointed!

Each walk comes with a curated list of cool things to do along the way, complete with hidden, beautiful stories and secrets. App in hand, Yangon’s downtown area of old grandeur, crumbling facades of old banks

and mansions that hark back to the era of old Rangoon that suddenly comes alive with the App’s explanations.

Highly recommended are Yangon’s lesser known Chinatown and Indian Quarter to discover part of Myanmar’s multicultural heritage. iYangon’s maps are also available in hard copy form, each colourful and unique piece designed by a local artist. Pick up a free map at Hla Day, Gekko, Union Bar or Tin Tin. Download iYangon for free on iOS and Android and start exploring with one complimentary walk. Each additional walk is just USD1.99, with all proceeds going back to Hla Day, a local social enterprise that co-created the walking routes.

The future of banking is here.

Be part of it.

briefings

Enrol today in our Bridging Programme.

4 months theory + 3 months internship*

at a top bank in Myanmar * Terms & Conditions Apply.

MYANMAR FINANCIAL CENTER (MFC) Asia Business Center, 2nd Floor, (Corner of Mahabandoola Rd. and 48th St.) Botahtaung Township, Yangon

09 257 999 601 / 602 / 603 info@mfc.com.mm www.mfc.com.mm MYANMORE magazine #3 Jan 2017 / 17

cover story

COMING UP FOR AIR Mayco Naing has been turning heads and provoking debate with her recent exhibition ‘Identity of Fear’; using art photography to challenge conservative notions of political and sexual expression.

Ben Hopkins met with the photographer at her studio flat in Yangon’s Bahan district.

Text by Ben Hopkins Pictures by Mayco Naing

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Mayco Naing is determined not to get pinned down or pigeon holed in her work. “Some people ask me what are you doing, what are you saying?” she says. “They want everything to be black and white. But I like to explore new avenues, I like to explore the grey areas”.

In her series, ‘Identity of Fear’, Mayco Naing’s photographs explore freedom of expression within a political context. The images, created in 2014, portray people between the ages of 22 and 25 semi-submerged in water; one young woman gazes out serenely as if into an uncertain future, another turns sideways, praying for peace while a third looks determined to shout his intent to the world.

Far from obscure the message is clear. “I started this series in January 2014,” Mayco says. “The run up to the elections had begun and people were becoming more confident in expressing themselves”. The pictures express the notion that we have to live even though we cannot breathe properly and show determination to see when our vision is blurred. All of the subjects were post graduates, emerging into a fast-changing Myanmar, about to reach the surface and make their mark in an uncertain world.

Background On first meeting, Mayco seems younger than her 31 years. Slightly built and brimming with enthusiasm her measured sense of purpose and

cover story

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cover story

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experience betray her age. Born into a modest family in a small town in Myanmar’s Irrawaddy region, she was taken under wing by her grandmother at the age of five when her father died.

“I had a happy childhood. My family weren’t rich but they always gave me support,” she says before adding she’d be visiting her beloved 88-year-old grandmother as soon as our interview at her studio flat in Yangon is over.

By the age of 16 she’d uprooted herself from the rural backwaters of her home province and took up work in a Yangon photo studio where she’d stay for the next nine years, creating personalized photo stickers, mostly for students and young people. The kitsch and cartoonish stickers were the ‘smart-phone’ selfies of their day and it wasn’t long before Mayco became branch manager, at one point overseeing a studio of over 50 employees, most of them teenage girls.

During these years Mayco would find herself experimenting with images in the dark room, accentuating tonal depth and developing the skills that would later define her style. “I wanted to develop my own style”, she says, “to make my pictures unique”.

After graduating with an economics degree in 2005, Mayco opened her own studio in Yangon, focusing on portrait photography to create something more permanent than the throwaway stickers of yesteryear.

Many of her customers were female students. “I wanted to bring out their individual character” she says. “Most of these girls lack confidence and think they’re ugly. I’d use ideas in fashion to bring out their confidence”.

Keen to learn more and push the boundaries, Mayco drew much of her inspiration through interacting with other photojournalists and artists, and in 2013 was invited to study in Arles, France, after winning first prize in a photo essay competition.

Though she’d previously exhibited at the 2010 International Biennial Exhibition in Lyon, France, the study trip to Arles represented a huge reality check and a steep learning curve. “When I got there it changed me because we don’t have that kind of education in our country,” she says. “We were so surprised. In the first week the teachers said we were so good. Then they criticised us. They judged us strongly and openly. I was shocked. I wanted to jump out of the window”. However, she’s fast to add, “their criticism improved me”.

Remembering the past – planning the future Returning to Myanmar in January 2014 with a headful of new ideas, Mayco Naing threw herself into the ‘Identity of Fear’ project, taking photos of herself submerged in bathtubs of water to better understand how her subjects would feel. Later that year she followed it up with a series of female nudes called, ‘Humanity, Dignity and Nudity’. Living in a conservative society, Mayco was keen to challenge Victorian attitudes of female nudity with artistic images that make no judgment on the female form.

whelmingly positive response from the media and gallery pundits – a far cry from its previous showing at the ‘Institute Francaise’ when sponsors (not the institute) asked for it to be taken down.

“In future, I would like to show different body shapes”, says Mayco while acknowledging that attitudes are changing in Myanmar and people are becoming a little less conservative.

Mayco’s future plans are to continue addressing socio/political issues with art photography while training Myanmar’s emerging generation of creative photographers at the Institute Francais.

However, on a personal level, one particular project she’s working on at present may prove to be the most poignant of all, one that explores the grey area of loss and remembrance.

“I miss my father and I want to remember him” she says. “I am 31 now and he was 35 when he passed away while studying engineering in Chann State.

I went there to understand how he felt when he was there as a 30-yearold engineer. I’ve been once and will go back to complete a photo project in his memory, using black and white painterly tones”.

Facebook: mayco-naing-photo-Studio-New

The series of nudes was shown alongside the ‘Identity of Fear’ exhibit in December 2016, drawing an over-

MYANMORE magazine #3 Jan 2017 / 25

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Arts & Culture

U Nyo Lay: Myanmar's First Bottle Artist Susan Bailey looks at the remarkable artwork of the late U Nyo Lay, whose legacy is kept alive by his daughter, Nilar.

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Arts & Culture

“U Nyo Lay has left an artistic legacy in Myanmar, one that takes incredible skill and patience. Using a slanted paint brush, he was able to create remarkable works of art inside of glass bottles”

Visits by appointment only.

U Nyo Lay Bottle Painting 09-423750778

Some would say that U Nyo Lay was unlucky. Born in 1938, he was soon stricken by polio then suffered an accident at the tender age of eight that left him unable to walk. Twenty-four years later, a second accident made it impossible for him to stand up or lift his head. Unfortunately, as the saying goes, bad things come in threes and a few years later fate would deliver yet another blow. This time he was so badly injured that only his left hand was left functioning.

Yet U Nyo Lay has left an artistic legacy in Myanmar, one that takes incredible skill and patience. Using a slanted paint brush, he was able to create remarkable works of art inside of glass bottles. So intricate, so precise were the paintings that many people did not believe they were real. But they were and, although he passed away in 2007, his art lives on through his daughter Ni Lar. Prior to U Nyo Lay, such bottles only existed in China. In the 16th century the Chinese started using powdered tobacco, commonly called ‘snuff’, as a form of traditional medicine. The upper-class quickly grew addicted to it and started carrying it around in glass bottles. To denote the ownership of the bottle, artisans began etching or painting the bottles with traditional scenes or symbols. Eventually, in the 1800s, the art of painting inside the snuff bottles began, more as a decorative item rather than functional.

Yet the art form remained unknown in Myanmar until the 1980s. And the story of how it came to be is one of passion and perseverance.

U Nyo Lay discovered his artistic talent at the age of 12, learning from magazines featuring famed national artists like U Ba Gyi and U Aung Soe. After matriculation he became arts chairman in his native township of Pyo Bway.

At that time he also began to build a reputation as a talented wood carver, cartoonist and signboard maker.

But in 1978, bed ridden and with limited mobility, U Nyo Lay once again found artistic inspiration. He read a magazine by artist Daw Saw Mon Nyein which featured an article about bottle art in China. U Nyo Lay was fascinated. Over the next eight years he taught himself, through trial and

indepth error, how to decorate the inside of glass bottles. Ironically, his physical disabilities actually helped him hone the delicate skills required to paint- his body being immobile, he could keep a steady hand while holding the brush.

What started as a hobby quickly developed in to a career. U Nyo Lay’s bottles were highly sought after and he was even flown to Thailand to present a bottle to a member of the Thai Royal Family. He brought such attention to Myanmar’s cultural scene that the government rewarded him with a generous prize.

However, U Nyo Lay was concerned.

He was the only one in Myanmar possessing these skills. Although a few other artists had started to study, no one had mastered the art of bottle painting. But his daughter, Nilar, showed a keen interested in painting and studied alongside her father.

It took her around a decade to perfect her talent. Unfortunately U Nyo Lay passed away in 2007 but Nilar carries on his legacy. Working from her home in southern Mandalay, she is more than happy to demonstrate the process for guests.

Any glass bottle with a short neck can be used. There is no template, no stencil. Nilar dips a slanted paint brush into paint and inserts it into the bottle, carefully creating designs inside the glass. The level of detail is incredible. It takes around twenty days to complete a bottle but more complicated designs can take up to two months. Depending on the size and detail, prices vary from 100,000 up to 300,000 Ks. Unlike other bottle artists in Myanmar who sell contemporary designs or ‘tourist’ designs, Nilar continues to draw traditional scenes like her father.

She also does commissioned portraits and has painted bottles featuring everyone from Aung San Su Kyi to Jerry Garcia.

Nilar said that although many have expressed interest in learning, few have the patience and the steady hands required. She is concerned her father’s legacy will die out. ‘I am very proud of what he did and want to continue bottle art. It brings attention to Myanmar’s arts scene and lets the world see our creative talents’ .

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Travel / Culture

A Voyage Through Time Martyn Brown climbs aboard the Sea Gypsy to discover one of the world’s last ‘must see’ paradises, seeped in Moken legend and threatened by environmental catastrophe.

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indepth “Today, about 2,000 Moken are believed to inhabit the archipelago, significantly reduced through migration, intermarriage with Burmese and deaths of males from rampant alcohol and drug abuse”

Travel / Culture

According to the Moken legend the heroic Bo Lone Ni sacrificed his life to the British 140 years ago to stop them exploiting the native seafaring people of Southern Burma and plundering their valuable marine wealth. The British had apparently misled the them into getting addicted to opium so they could take precious pearls, edible birds nests, and ambergris whale vomit which can be turned into perfume.

Showing inimitable bravery Bo Lone Ni fought back against the colonial rulers, targeting their opium boats in a desperate attempt to protect the indigenous people, now known as Sea Gipsies or Moken, and their home, the beautiful Mergui Archipelago. With a bounty on his head, Bo Lone Ni was eventually captured and shot by the British, but the legend of perhaps one of the world’s first eco-warriors lives on.

I’m reading this epic tale of heroism and tragedy as I bob around the very same dreamy turquoise waters Bo

Lone Ni was attempting to save on board the aptly named Sea Gipsy - a Burmese-style junk boat.

As Myanmar continues to open up after decades of political isolation this chain of 800 tropical islands scattered across the Andaman Sea, now known as the Myeik Archipelago, and its people, are facing a modern day battle for survival. The continuous erosion of the Moken culture, catastrophic environmental damage and the spectre of uncontrolled mass tourism all pose a threat to one of the world’s last mustsee paradises. I’m told, by no-one who is old enough to remember, that the islands are like those in Thailand were 60 years ago.

As I discovered, the archipelago remains irresistibly lovely. Powdery white sand beaches rim steep jungle-clad islands all surrounded by impossibly blue seas. Tourist numbers are, blissfully, still in the low thousands with many visiting through the handful of commercial sailing yachts or liveaboard diving trips.

But the world is closing in. In September last year it became possible for tourists to obtain an eVisa to enter Myanmar at the scrappy port town of Kawthaung, which will ease access and push up tourist arrivals further. There are currently two hotels operating in the Archipelago, the Grand Andaman Resort on The Stay Kyun Island and Myanmar Andaman Resort on Macleod Island. Another nine projects are pending approval with the Myanmar Investment Commission.

Setting sail I begin my voyage in Kawthaung.

As I clamber aboard the cream and bottle-green coloured Sea Gipsy I’m warmly greeted by the crew of six who show me around the 100ft vessel which is decked out with teak lounge chairs, a large dining table shaded by a white canopy, and cozy, open-air sleeping cabins. There’s even a bar.

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Article cover Boulder island This spread 01 Moken village 02, 03 The Moken people Next spread 04 Squid fishing boat 05 Kawthaung 06 Rubbish 07 Kyaw Kyaw preparing dinner on Sea Gipsy

I also meet my travelling companions, a united nations consisting of a French couple, three Norwegian/Canadian’s and three Australians.

Our boat, adorned with the red, yellow and green Myanmar flag and a bunch of flowers secured to the bow for good luck, gently makes its way out of the cluttered harbour with Victoria Point, as Kawthaung was known in colonial times. Soon, the harbour is no more than a small dot on the horizon.

Our first destination, That Yan Kyunn or Barwell Island, is two-and-a-half hours from the mainland, leaving enough time for mobile phone and internet connections to fizzle away and to kick back and relax. Sheer bliss?

Well not quite.

Any thoughts we have of spending our first evening watching a blazing Bengal sunset dipping its toes into the Andaman sea are quickly extinguished as we head directly into the teeth of a squall. Weather reports suggest there is a Cyclone brewing and it’s already

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causing problems further south in Thailand. Oh goodie.

Faced with the prospect of a storm we decide there is only one thing for it - jump in the sea. The Sea Gipsy is a treasure trove of aquatic sporting equipment with two kayaks, two paddle boards and snorkelling gear. There is something quite ethereal about swimming among colourful tropical fish with the rain beating down on the back of your head.

After an hour or so fish-spotting and a quick trip to the beach it was time to get back onto the boat to get warm and dry before nightfall. We all gathered in the bar area at the back of the Sea Gipsy to drink rum, nibble on some freshly cooked snacks and shelter from the wind. This was followed by a delicious meal of seaweed soup, grilled seabass and spicy squid.

As we eat, our smiling guide, Kyaw Kyaw, sets out our plan for the next day having spoken on the radio with the station manager in Kawthaung to find out the latest weather updates.

“We will head north to an island,” he says. ”It has a beautiful beach, we can go kayaking and paddle boarding - no problem.”

With that reassuring thought in our heads we prepare to spend our first night at sea. Early next morning, with the weather still unseasonably bad, we are treated to a hearty breakfast of bacon, eggs, toast and coffee in bed before arriving at the unimaginatively named 115 island. What it lacks in name it more than makes up for in beauty.

Myself and a crewmate decide to circumnavigate the tiny jungle-clad islet in a kayak, watching as dozens of crabs scuttle across rocks as we approach while a bright blue kingfisher darts through the air and red jellyfish float by. Around the corner is the crowning glory of this speck in the ocean, a chevron-shaped beach of talcum-powder soft white sand.

Next, we are enticed by the prospect of “outstanding” snorkelling at Shark Island, fortunately named not because of its sharp-toothed marine-life but

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Travel / Culture

because of its appearance. The snorkelling was indeed very good, Angel Fish, Banner Fish, Parrot Fish, Clown fish to name a few.

But the depressing signs of man’s negative impact on the environment were all too apparent here. Shattered coral lay on the seabed, a victim of dynamite fishing prevalent in the area.

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The island’s only beach simply took my breath away. It had supermodel good looks, turquoise water lapping onto creamy white sand backed by a dark green blanket of soaring rainforest.

But like most supermodels this beach also has its problems. Rubbish. Lots of it. Plastic bottles, flip flops, sandals, paint tins, styrofoam even a plastic pineapple, all creating an ugly tide mark where sand meets jungle.

It’s a problem on most beaches we visit on our trip, and many others I have set foot on in the rest of Myanmar, thanks to rubbish being dumped at sea by fisherman and by people in villages and towns along the mainland coast.

Protecting the environment is at the forefront of the Sea Gipsy's ethos with biodegradable products on board.

They even give you your own drinking bottle to cut down on waste.

Kyaw Kyaw tells me that he tries to collect rubbish from the beaches on each trip but it’s a losing battle.

“The fishermen throw their rubbish in the sea and it gets washed up on the beaches,“ he says. “The turtles eat the plastic bags and it is bad for the environment. There is too much rubbish everywhere and the best way to stop

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it is to educate people about it. The archipelago is everyone’s future.”

We overnight in a sheltered bay on Pilar Island or Great Swinton as it was known by the British. Dinner, again, is a wonderful array of seafood, fruit and vegetables.

Next morning I wake earlier than everyone else and decide to take a dawn paddle-boarding trip to the nearby Robinson Crusoe-like beach. It’s wonderful, trash free and all mine. As Sea Eagles soar above my head I paddle across the bay to a wide and flat beach backed by mangroves. It is flanked on one side by the steep and daunting rainforest which bursts into an early morning cacophony of bird life.

After breakfast and a refill of water the compass is set to the North West and Bo Cho Island. Here we catch a dinghy to another isolated beach with fresh turtle tracks the only sign anyone has been here in days, perhaps longer. We then wade waste deep through a hot spring behind the sand before being enveloped by the dense dripping wet jungle. Soggy and covered in mud we arrive 90 minutes later at the Moken village Ma Kyone Galet.

For centuries the Moken roamed the islands, worshipping spirits and reciting long epics of a mythical past, such as Bo Lone Ni. They collected molluscs, crabs and sea cucumbers, speared fish, hunted and dove deep to find valuable pearl oysters. Today,

about 2,000 Moken are believed to inhabit the archipelago, significantly reduced through migration, intermarriage with Burmese and deaths of males from rampant alcohol and drug abuse.

Tania Miorin, who manages an environmental and tourism project in the village and Lampi Island Marine Park, said the key challenge is to protect the environment and maintain traditions while providing income to local people.

“We are trying to educate the local people about the environment and the benefits tourism can have but you have to give them incentives to protect the park.”

The project, run by the Italian group Instituto Oikos, includes the development of eco-tourism, putting a draft management plan into practice and training park staff.

Lampi Island, Myanmar’s first and only marine park and the size of Phuket, is a “Lost World” of thick forests, the region’s best mangrove forests and an abundance of wildlife including Hornbills, pythons and flying foxes.

Heading across the island’s protected waters we witness a giant black Manta Ray leap out of the water.

On our final full day we head south, stopping at the stunning Pho Ni Island for the best snorkelling yet and Red Monkey Island for one last swim.

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TRAVEL TIPS

GETTING THERE

By Air From Yangon take a two-hour flight to Kawthaung. Alternatively, fly from Bangkok to Rangong. From there you can take a long tail boat to Kawthaung. eVisas are now available.

Yangon

Tanintharyi Region

WHEN TO GO The waters are best between November to February but the season continues until the end of April. May to October is the Monsoon season.

Lampi Island

2 hr Kawthaung

I TRAVELLED WITH...

I did a 5 day/4 night Island Safari through Moby Dick Adventures www.islandsafarimergui.com info@islandsafarimergui.com $1,110 per person plus $100 archipelago entry fee.

WHAT TO TAKE Camera, sunscreen, swim suit, rash guard, mosquito repellant, rain coat, shoes suitable for hiking, sunglasses.

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Travel / Drive

The Spice Road Classic 2016 Cambodia - Thailand - Myanmar

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Destination Rally just finished a fantastic rally throughout South East Asia on 1st December of this year.

The baseline of this year’s rally was…

Spices! As we drove along some of the most scenic areas of the three countries, participants could see, smell and above all taste the different spices.

Some of the most breathtaking sites were visited such as Angkor, Pre Vihear, Sukhothai, Chiang Mai, Kentung, Inle Lake, Bagan and so many more hidden gems along the way. Making this year’s rally a bit more cultural than usual.

We started in the quaint city of Sihanoukville on the Gulf of Thailand, where 22 cars were shipped in from all over the world. Fantastic vintage cars on the menu such as a Vauxhall 1924, Bentley Speed Six 1927, Rolls Royce Phantom II 1930, all the way to

indepth a Mercedes 1971! Our participants came from Switzerland, Belgium, The Netherlands, UK, US and Thailand. Our adventure started off well as all participants ended their welcome evening on the dance floor!

We started our first real “rally” day with a late Monsoon rain while driving through the Kampot pepper plantations, but what a memorable start, even with the bad roads! We briefed our participants well on the political situation and the history of the Khmer Empire before starting the Cambodian experience, as we believe it’s important for people to know the background of a country and its people.

Thank God our mechanics were out and about from day one, as sure enough, car problems nearly always turn up at the start: overheating, gear

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problems …etc. The Bentley’s axle and wheel almost came off. Oh boy, and we’d just got started!

lunch next to a waterfall, we visited the mask Museum of Dansai and the great site of Sukhotha.

We left people with some great Cambodian memories of a beautiful Angkor visit, a superb dinner among the temples and the climbing of a lesser known site of Pre Vihear. After nine days, it was time to say goodbye to our local logistic team who did a fabulous job. They also ensured a seamless first border crossing into Thailand.

One of the best drives along our Spice Road Classic, was the drive along the Burmese border, on the famous road from Mae Sot to Mae Hong Son and Chiang Mai, quite an accomplishment for the vintage car drivers. The Rolls Royce had to be sent off directly to Chiang Mai for an ignition problem.

Here we also had our ER doctor’s first intervention where we stopped for a road accident between a truck and a motorcycle. Even though none of our participants were involved, our medical team reacted quickly on the victim and the Canadian citizen was soon driven to the nearest hospital.

Thailand was still mourning for the death of its precious King, which we respected, but it did bring a particular atmosphere. The contrast with Cambodia was quite big, as Thailand is a 21st Century developed country, with highways and shopping centers. That’s why we drove through small scenic roads along the Mekong river and the Laos border. We had a great picnic

A well-deserved rest was waiting for us in Chiang Mai at the Dhara Dhevi, a Thai-Burmese Palace in a lovely gar-

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Travel / Drive den. Superb photo opportunities of the cars we had here! A great drive to Chiang Rai, our last stop before crossing the borders with Myanmar. A few last entrants for our Spice Road Classic joined from here with a Mercedes Pagoda. This border crossing was our first “Drive-in� border crossing ever!

Entering Myanmar felt like going back 50 years in time. Small but very scenic roads and little villages. A short visit to the Akhas ethnic tribes in Kentung and another medical intervention for one of our mechanics who cut his knee.

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The next day, we had an early start for the longest and most difficult day of the rally. We managed to open this road, especially for our Spice Road Classic, so it was the first ever vintage car rally to go through! Here we had our first accident with a rally car hitting a lady on a motorcycle. Again, thanks to our emergency doctor and our compulsory ambulance we were able to handle the incident in a quick and efficient way.

This road is also where the Silver Palaung tribe resides.

Travel / Drive

Going downhill to Inle lake was again a great drive through the mountains.

We arrived in time for lunch at the Inle Princess hotel. Time for a two day rest and some mechanical work, like on the Porsche where the horn got stuck and they had to drive for one hour with the sound of their horn!

At last, a free day enjoying the wonders of the famous lake on a boat tour.

Visiting the orphanage where some participants gave some donations.

Next day was an easy drive to the famous cave of Pindaya and its 8.000 Buddha’s followed by a short drive to the British colonial town of Kalaw, where we stayed in a new lodge and had dinner around the fire as it got quite cold at night. The next day, we had prepared some school equipment as a donation for the little school next to the hotel, where kids entertained us with songs and dances.

indepth Further down to the Elephant Camp, where some of our ladies’ participants enjoyed very much the elephant washing and scrubbing in the river, a thrill well worth it. We made our descent towards the arid plains of Mount Popa, just in time for a magnificent view of the sunset over the Monastery.

We had to escort the Rolls Royce for the last 30 Km which arrived after sundown.

A short hop to Bagan, where we stopped at a local palm sugar factory to taste the local alcohol before we arrived in Bagan at the famous Aureum hotel. A two-day visit of Bagan with the site of the 2.500 pagodas and a participation in a noviciation ceremony. We sponsored nine kids for their noviciation to the monastery.

We all went to new heights when we took the balloon flight over the thousand pagodas and stupas plain, with a breathtaking sunrise to be remembered.

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Travel / Drive

The next day took us through the “Texas” of Myanmar with its oil wells along the site of the famous Irrawaddy river, and further on to the new Capital of the country Naypidaw and its large boulevard.

We were the first rally or convoy of cars escorted by motorcycle police permitted to enter the new Parliament complex, which made great photos, thanks to the Minister of Tourism.

The last day of driving was quite easy on the highway linking Naypidaw and Yangon, 5 hours without any car problems all the way into the heart of Yangon and passing the famous Shwedagon pagoda. We ended the rally in the Governor’s Residence, which is another landmark hotel.

indepth We were honored with the presence of the Minister of Tourism for our last nights’ dinner in the beautiful gardens of the hotel.

On 1st December, we drove in a police escorted convoy to the harbor for container loading.

Another great rally, varied and cultural with difficult and easy drives, very scenic and full of surprises. Thanks to the local Myanmar logistic team.

Was it worth it! It seems so, as we already have six cars from this rally signed up for next year!

Any information, please contact us rally@destination.be

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Streets of Yangon

Walking The Streets of Yangon: 39th Street Bob Percival walks the streets of downtown Yangon and finds old warehouses, the home of Ludu Sein Win, a cut-throat razor shave, and teashop laneways.

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Streets of Yangon

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01 Ya Zar Maung, Tourist Barber Shop 02 No. 96: Local girls waiting to start work at Virya Couture, a social enterprise business training young local people in sewing and dressmaking.

03 Marston Mat door, recycled from leftover WW2 material.

It’s an impossibly hot morning. It is supposed to be the middle of winter and the temperature on the streets is already hotter than an Australian summer. Yangon is still waiting for a cold winter night where you can turn off the air-con and fans, and pull up a blanket instead. The morning air is clear though, and today I am walking 39th Street with my good friend Sabai, who is employed at Hla Day, a social enterprise that works with disadvanteged groups producing beautiful artisan products. Like many young Myanmar people, Sabai wants to study overseas. Paris is the dream she will make come true.

We start at the bottom block, down on Strand Road. The road is blocked here due to security around the British and Australian embassy buildings. The laconic guards direct us around to the entrance off Merchant Street. This section of 39th Street is taken up by century-old warehouses that would have served the river trade in colonial times – in the 1920s, Rangoon was the second busiest port in the world after New York. Most of the warehouses are abandoned now, ready for redevelopment. A local tells us that No.40-42

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was once owned by Indian traders but taken over by the army regime in the 1962 coup, as were most businesses in Rangoon. No.54-58 is being converted into a new bar, being given a very kitsch neo-classical façade.

Opposite is the Post Office Collection Office where you can rent your own PO Box for 25,000Ks a year. On the corners of Merchant and 39th are two iconic Yangon buildings. On the right is the St. John the Baptist Armenian Apostolic Orthodox Church of Yangon, the oldest church in Yangon, consecrated in 1863, the land bequested by King Thibaw in recognition of Armenian traders.

On the other corner is a two-storey early 1900s shophouse building recently renovated by Turquoise Mountain – an example of building preservation that incorporates and respects its residents. There is a small gallery upstairs that was once the headquarters of famed journalist Ludu Sein Win and his newspaper The People. He lived in the rooms next door where he conducted his revolutionary Feeling, Mood and Action School during the regime years. There’s also a teashop

on the ground floor where writers and poets regularly hang out. Anyone is welcome to join in the conversations.

We cross over Merchant Street to the lower middle block. The large building on the righthand corner is the Government Immigration Office, well worth a look for its architectural details. On the left is the mysteriously titled Oriental Aspiration Company.

Further up on the right at No.96 we run into some local girls waiting to start work at Virya Couture, another social enterprise business training young local people in sewing and dressmaking. At No.102 is the Little Yangon Hostel run by the very amiable Rosie and her family. Excellent and cheap accomodation in the heart of the city. This is a street block full of travel and tour companies. There are also some classic old colonial residences at No.105 and No.125 which has impressive mosaic steps. This building is currently for sale.

At No.130 there is a dharma yone used for Buddhist religious instruction and gatherings. Outside are some beautiful glazed celadon water jars, locked in their own gilded aluminium MYANMORE magazine #3 Jan 2017 / 45

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Streets of Yangon

cage. Across the road at No.131 is a great example of a Marston Mat door, recycled from leftover WW2 material.

At No.134 a local boy is surrounded by tin cans, glass and plastic bottles, cardboard boxes, and newspapers, all to be sorted and sent out to a recycling depot at Saw Bwar Gyi Kone, near Insein.

Another classic early 1900s building, complete with wooden shutters and wooden steps is at No.140. Concrete steps replaced wood in residential buildings in the early 1920s – a good way to gauge the age of a building in Yangon.

The temperature is rising to the mid30s as we cross over Mahabandoola

Road to the upper middle block.

On the righthand corner, Ali is busy working at his water pump repair shopfront. It’s small and crowded but his family has been working here for over forty years. His grandfather, a Sunni, came here from India. He’s here every day from 9am to 6pm. The price to repair a water pump is around 40,000Ks. Next door is the Tourist Barber Shop.

We talk to Ya Zar Maung who has been working here for only two weeks. He started cutting hair professionally when he was 13 years old. His father is also a barber. It’s 1,300Ks for a haircut and 500Ks for a shave, cut-throat

razor of course. The shop is open from 8am to 9pm. Further along at No.156 is the stunning ISMAIL ARRIFF WAQF building, rendered in a beautiful clay-brown stucco. The date on the building says 1951 but the windows look more like early 1900s. Next door at No.160 is another heritage 1925 building which the landlord has tried twice to demolish but two tenants are refusing to move, delaying the fate of many buildings downtown.

The small but odd sign above the doorway at No.171 advertises the business of Scientific Palmist & Psychic, Sadanar Sayar Datpone Ko Kyan Win. The strange illustration accompanying the sign is of a Burmese toy which always corrects itself to stand upright.

Something we all should do! More heritage buildings are at No.185, 186 & 187.

At No.200 we run into our old friend Don Wright who runs Wired on 39, a great art studio where Don sells his fantastic wire creations, as well as skirts and dresses made up from woven cloth brought down from Chin State. There is an excellent dosa street stall on the south-east corner of Anawratha Road, only 400Ks for two dosa and some mont hnit for dipping.

Across Mahabandoola Road on the north-east corner of the upper block there are more good food stalls serving deep-fried rice pastry (mont si kyaw), and three diferent kinds of sticky rice (kauk hnyin) – with bean, without bean and black, all topped up with freshly shredded coconut flesh, crushed sesame seed and salt (nhan htaung). Shwe kyi, made from sticky rice and jaggery is also on offer. If that isn’t enough to eat there is the excellent Myanmar Nourishment Noodle Salad Shop outside No.232, open 5.30am to 11am, only 700Ks per dish.

The real find though is the laneway just past no.238 on the righthand side.

Here, the vivacious and enthusiastic Daw Marlar has been holding court at her very popular teashop for nearly eight years. Here on offer, apart from brewed tea, fried rice & noodle and rice soup, is a great French Toast (mont kyat au kyaw).

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Streets of Yangon

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04 Clay-brown stucco facade of ISMAIL ARIFF WAQF building 05 No. 134: a local boy surrounded by recyclable products, ready to be sorted and sent to a depot at Insein 06 The creations of artist Don Wright, Wired on 39 (No. 39)

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Daw Marlar is very keen to clean up these laneways and have them as places for people to gather and eat.

Before the change of government, she and her neighbours used to collect money and have the laneways cleaned.

Now money is officially collected from all tenants to be used for cleaning, but the government is now outlawing use of these laneways as eating places, and Daw Marlar may have to move – the price of democracy apparently seems to be even more rules and regulations.

At the moment Daw Marlar’s excellent eating establishment is open from 6am to 11am.

There are lots of printing shops in this upper block, plus a number of three-storey 1920s apartment blocks.

At No.270 there is a lovely Cantonese Chinese-Myanmar family that have been living at the apartment for over 50 years. They were only too happy to tell us their story.

Having finished walking 39th Street it might be good to stop at the De De Teashop just around the corner at No.255 Bogyoke Aung San Road. Here you can relax, sit under the shade of the large trees, and contemplate what a wonderful place downtown Yangon really is. Enjoy.

Bob Percival's book, "Walking the Streets of Yangon: The people, stories & hidden treasures of downtown cosmopolitan Yangon (Rangoon)" is now available at Rangoon Teahouse, Pansuriya, Hla Day, Press Office Cafe, Easy Cafe, and large bookstores in Yangon. Percival is now planning to do a second book that covers more streets.

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Travel / Culture

Finding Animism and Ethnic Tribes in Kayah State Myanmar’s smallest state is home to numerous tribal groups and is rarely explored by foreign travelers.

Marie Starr ventures into the villages and homes of the locals who explain how Buddhism and Animism are still practiced in tandem.

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One of the only states I hadn’t yet visited in Myanmar, the notions of Kayah State had been calling me. Loikaw is the capital of Kayah State and is a town built around jagged rock peaks topped with golden stupas, surrounded by a distant ring of mountains that hover on the horizon in every direction. A state in which women wear heavy brass rings around their necks as a sign of beauty and to identify the ethnic tribe they are proud to come from. A state not long open to visitors due to a tumultuous history of civil fighting and the laying of landmines until recent years. A state where people still practice animism and pray to the spirit guardians of the sun, moon, forest and mountains.

Arriving early in the morning after a 15-hour bus journey from Yangon, we check into Min Mahaw Guesthouse and set out to find breakfast.

We spend the morning at Kayah State's most famous sight, Taung Kwe Pagoda. In the middle of the town this mountaintop Buddhist temple compound of craggy limestone and white and gold stupas is fun to wander around, the climb is worth it for the breathtaking views. Allegedly this is

the origin of the town's name as loi kaw is Shan for 'island of mountains'.

Next, the Kayah State Cultural Museum that, though sparse and slightly expensive for foreigners, gives a good visual explanation of the nine different ethnicities in Kayah State. Later in the day, while making our way around the town, I notice a group of unusual looking wooden poles adorned with star and moon shapes, twigs and branches.

Arranged in rows at various heights in the corner of a field, they are cordoned off with a low wooden fence. A mighty sense of curiosity takes over me and simultaneously black storm clouds roll in accompanied by the howl of approaching thunder making us dash back to our hotel for shelter.

In the evening, we spend time by the lake in the town watching the many local kids fishing. Equipped with homemade fishing rods of bamboo and twine wound around tins, they spend their hours lacing flying termites onto their hooks and casting their lines.

Though the fish are no larger than the palm of their hands they bring them home for their families to eat in a fish curry that evening. Following this,

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Previous spread 01 A Kayan grandmother from an ethnic tribe in Daw Kyi Kay village where animist beliefs are upheld alongside Buddhism 02 A Kayan baby 03 Taung Kwe Pagoda in the centre of Loikaw This page 04 Kayan kids go out to the fields searching for beetles which will be fried and eaten as a snack 05 Youths fishing by the lake in Loikaw 06 Village kids play near animist totem poles

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dinner and beers at one of the lakeside beer stations from which we observe the monsoon rain make glorious pounding patterns on the lake’s green surface.

Early next morning, we are met by our guide U Tay Aung, a.k.a Theo, and set out on our journey by car towards the starting point of our trekking route.

I ply him with questions about the totem poles and animism in the area.

He explains that it’s a very old type of worship that existed in Kayah State and Myanmar before Theravada Buddhism or Christianity were brought here.

Taking a stop at the local market in Demorso, we observe the hustle and bustle of locals from different tribes selling rice wine, fried snacks, honey, meat and vegetables. Following this we drive through the Kayah countryside passing scenic landscapes - jungles, rolling hills and red-soil farmlands.

Trekking over gentle hills and through quaint Kayan villages of Pampet and Daw Kyi Kay we’re welcomed into the homes of Kayan women with their gleaming brass neck rings. The typical wooden Kayan homes are rich with the homely aroma of fermenting rice wine and drying meat. In each house we’re offered rice wine from a jar with a straw to be passed amongst us as we sit around the fire.

As we wander around, we notice similar enclosed paddocks of totem poles, their twigs dancing above us in the wind. As we trek, Theo explains that each village has a shaman who makes predictions from reading chicken bones, makes offerings to the animist spirits and organizes the planting and

harvesting festivals - huge ceremonies giving thanks to the animist spirits each year.

After an enthralling rendition of a Kayan tune played by an auntie on her handmade guitar outside her shop, we trek back to our car. Back in Loikaw we meet with U Maung Thein (85), a local shaman, inside his house. He speaks to his wife in a dialect our guide cannot understand. In one corner of the living room stands a Buddhist shrine surrounded by family photographs, graduations and cute babies. When I ask if he worships both Buddhism and Animism simultaneously he explains, “Animism is connected with Buddhism but it is held as a tradition, not a religion.” On the topic of the future of Animism he replies, “Shamans have been in my family for generations.

But none of my sons are interested in taking up the position themselves.”

He wants to show us something in a field outside. We follow him as he hobbles out the door and through the gate behind his house. Lo and behold we are back in the field where the towering poles first roused my curiosity. He explains that the poles are chosen upon his consultation with the spirits of the forest. It must be a very particular type of tree and one without any interference from animals or other spirits. Once selected it is ceremoniously chopped down. With great care to keep it from touching off the ground, it is carried on the backs of male villagers in a procession to the site where it will be erected with the other poles and carved with the date.

The figures on top represent the sun, moon and stars which villagers may pray and give offerings to for luck, health and fruitful harvests.

indepth

TRAVEL TIPS 8h

1 hr

Kayah State

Loikaw GETTING THERE

Yangon

By Bus Buses leave from Yangon’s Aung Mingalar Bus Station daily at 3pm, arriving in Loikaw at 6am.

By Air Myanmar National Airlines have four flights per week from Yangon to Loikaw ca. US$ 100 WHERE TO STAY Book ahead as surprisingly few guesthouses we called into had spare rooms.

Min Mahaw Guesthouse, 120 Kant Kaw Rd Loikaw, +95 83 21451 US$ 40/night, ensuite, room sleeps 3 pax and is a nice option with very friendly, helpful staff who can organize transport and guides for you.

WHAT TO DO Recommended: 1 day visiting the attractions in Loikaw town, 1 day trekking to Kayan villages Pampet and Daw Kyi Kay, 1 day to visit Kyet Cave and Seven Stages Waterfall. Longer treks are available. Many still require permits and for visitors to be part of an organized tour.

Recommended guide: U Tay Aung (Tel: 09428001621)

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK For breakfast, sweet tea and sumptuous coconut buns hot off the pan at Thein Gambar teashop (no English name on the signboard) on Kantkaw Street.

Don’t miss the regional specialty hin tote which is sticky rice, pork and spring onions steamed inside a banana leaf. Hot, cheap and delicious, it can be bought for 500k at Mingalar on Kantkaw Street.

CULTURAL SENSITIVITIES Women are not permitted to enter the enclosed areas that hold totem poles or shrines however it doesn’t take from the experience as they are large and can easily be observed from a small distance.

Though they are often referred to as ‘long neck women’ or ‘Padaung’ (which is Shan for long-neck), Kayan is the name the members of the ethnicity use for themselves.

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indepth

Travel / Adventure

"Reaching the top, the chatter died down.

We were surrounded by panoramic views of mountains. To the north, south, east and west were mountains."

Trekking near Mandalay David Dylan takes advantage of the cooler winter weather to explore the mountains on the western edge of Mandalay.

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Travel / Adventure

indepth

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One of the (many) challenges of living in Yangon is getting away for a day.

Sure Hlwaga’s nice, if you don’t mind your natural paradise mixed with buses spurting out plumes of black smoke and plastic bags flapping through the sky. Dhala, Syriam and Thwante are great the first time, or even the second, but those palm trees eventually lose their charm.

But in Mandalay, a day away from the buzz of the city is easily accomplished.

And with the cooler winter weather upon us, a friend called me, keen to go on an outdoor adventure. Our plan was an early morning trek up Mya Kanat, one of the many mountains that skirt the western edges of Mandalay. It was a trek I had done several times in the past but my friends were keen to try it, and since I always enjoy it, I was happy to join.

Early on Saturday morning we gathered for breakfast at a tea shop, bundled up in scarves and enjoying the cool morning air. Driving east, the city’s bustling streets quickly gave way to rice paddies and quieter laneways.

After twenty minutes, we crossed through the Mandalay Technology University, quite possibly Myanmar’s most scenic institution, to the base of the hills which were obscured by early morning fog.

We parked our motorbikes at a small tea shop, stocked up on water and hit the trails. The walk starts off on

a steep, concrete road. I could hear one friend cursing under her breath after ten minutes. To ease everyone’s minds, and perhaps my own, I reassured them that the beginning was the hardest stretch which is not the complete truth but not too far off to be considered a flat-out lie.

After around 20 minutes of sheer uphill, we reached a viewpoint and all the previous moaning was forgotten. Thanks to the steep gradation of the route, we had quickly reached a height that allowed for sweeping views of the city below. Although it was still hazy, we were energized by the site. The road continued winding up, not nearly as steep and with some portions sealed and others dirt tracks.

The route’s path is wide enough so that when the occasional ox cart or motorbike passes by, there is plenty of space.

We ambled on, passing through some small villages where vendors were selling mohinga, boiled peanuts and drinks. From time to time beautiful views of the city would appear in the distance but mostly we just enjoyed being surrounded by forests and fields.

Towards the top there was one last challenging section. The trail narrowed to less than a meter wide and became increasingly steep. At a small shop set amid bamboo plants and pine trees, we caught our breath before

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the final push to the top which saw us climbing crumbling cement stairs to the base of a monastery. We took a quick photo of the mini ‘Golden Rock’ at the bottom, the group of us far more chatty than we had been an hour or two prior. In fact, as we made it up the last set of steep stairs to Mya Kanat, I even heard someone singing.

Reaching the top, the chatter died down. We were surrounded by panoramic views of mountains. To the north, south, east and west were mountains. As far as the eye could see, green hills rolled into the horizon with only a handful of buildings peeking through the tea tops.

After a few high-fives and obligatory selfies, we sat on the platform and relaxed in the cool mountain air. We were joined by a few other locals who had driven up on motorbikes and a few chilled out dogs. The scene was surreal when we considered that just three hours earlier we were sitting in a tea shop amid the buzz of Mandalay’s downtown.

The trek down was far more enjoyable, although our knees begged to differ. A good walking stick would have helped as we did slip a few times in the dirt.

We reached the bottom in around two hours, sat for a cup of tea and made our way back in to town in time for a late lunch and a well-deserved beer.

Planning to go?

Here are a few things to keep in mind: Trekking essentials Although there are shops along the way, it is recommended to bring water and snacks. There is also limited shade so sunscreen and a hat are suggested and sturdy walking shoes as well (although we did see people in slippers).

Signage Note that there are no signs in English and few in Burmese to mark the way.

The route is straight but there are a few turns to make, but the local residents are more than willing to help out.

Sleep at monastery (for locals) There is an option to sleep at the monastery at the top if you wish to catch the sunrise views but this is only permissible for locals.

01 Mountain streams 02 Up Up Up 03 Views from the top of Mya Kanat

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Chinese New Year Preparations and Celebrations 2017: The Year of the Rooster

Chinese New Year is celebrated for sixteen days from New Year's Eve to the Lantern Festival. The preparations start seven days before the New Year's Eve. Many activities for this period are traditional customs, but some are quite new.

Here is a daily guide to the celebrations in 2017.

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Festivals

Long Ago...

Typical Line-Up Preceding Days 23rd-29th of the 12th lunar month (20-26 Jan) Cleaning the House

Chinese New Year's Eve 30th of the 12th lunar month (27 Jan) Putting Up New Year Decorations Although some people decorate their houses several days before the festival, most people do it on New Year's Eve. Houses are decorated with red lanterns, red couplets, New Year paintings, and red lanterns. 2017 is a year of the Rooster, so images will appear on decorations.

Giving Red Envelopes (Lucky Money for Kids) It all began long, long ago in a mythical village savaged by a man-eating beast called the Nian.

Every year the Nian would creep into the village, eat the people and destroy their homes. One year a mysterious old man decided to fight back. On the night of the Nian’s return he draped the village in red and set light to fireworks.

The Nian, afraid of loud noises and the colour red disappeared into the woods.

Mercifully, the Nian may be long gone but the tradition of wearing red and setting light to fireworks lives on, nowhere more so than amongst Myanmar’s one million Chinese population. There’ll be plenty of action and celebrations in China Town this year, but what of the customs and preparations amongst the local Chinese?

From the 23rd of the 12th lunar month (January 20), Chinese people carry out a thorough cleaning of their houses. The cleaning is called "sweeping the dust", and represents a wish to put away old things, bid farewell to the old year, and welcome the New Year.

New Year Shopping

Chinese New Year's Eve Reunion Dinner

Parents usually give their children red envelopes after the reunion dinner, wishing them health, growth, and good studies in the coming year. Red envelopes always have money in. Money in red envelopes is believed to bring good luck, as red is China's lucky colour, so it's called lucky money.

The New Year's Eve Feast is a "must do" dinner with all family members reuniting. Chinese try very hard to make this family event, often traveling long distances. People from north and south China eat different foods on this special occasion, and many New Year foods are symbolic.

In northern China, a traditional dish for the feast is jiaozi (dumplings).

They are shaped like old Chinese ingots, symbolizing wealth. Southern Chinese eat niangao (sticky rice cake) on this special day, because niangao sounds like "yearly higher", symbolizing improvement.

Staying Up Late

Putting Up Spring Couplets

People buy New Year food and snacks, decorations, fireworks and clothes before New Year’s Eve. Chinese New Year throughout Asia is a shopping boom time. Chinese people may be thrifty most of the time, but they seem quite generous in their spending during their traditional festivals. For example, they buy everyone new clothes for the festival, whether they need them or not. Expect Yangon’s China Town markets to bulge at the seams during the new Year festivities.

Spring couplets or New Year couplets are paired phrases, typically of seven Chinese characters each, written on red paper in black ink, and pasted one each side of a door frame. Sometimes a phrase of four or five characters is affixed to the top of the door frame as well. New Year couplets are filled with best wishes. Some people write the couplets themselves, but most people buy them (ready printed) from the market. Pasting spring couplets is thought to keep evil away.

This custom is called shousui ‘to keep watch over the year’. Chinese stayed up all night in the past, but now most stay up only till the midnight firecrackers and fireworks die down.

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edits/guides Chinese New Year's Day 30th of the 12th lunar month (28 Jan) Setting Off Firecrackers and Fireworks

The moment New Year arrives there is a cacophony of fireworks and firecrackers all around. Consider earplugs — it's like World War III in Yangon’s China Town! Fireworks sound like rocket launchers, and chains of firecrackers make machine-gun-like noises. Families stay up for this joyful moment.

Putting On New Clothes and Extending New Year Greetings On the first day of the New Year, Chinese put on new clothes, and say literally ‘respectful joy’, it means ‘greetings’ or ‘best wishes’, and wish each other good luck and happiness in the New Year. It is customary for the younger generation to visit their elders, and wish them health and longevity.

Watching Lion and Dragon Dances

Offering Sacrifices to Ancestors in Temples Where A popular custom since ancient times, ancestor worship varies widely — from sweeping tombs in the wild to worshiping ancestors in ancestral halls or temples. Many (especially rural) people offer sacrifices to their ancestors in the main hall of the house, where an ancestor altar is displayed. Then family members kneel and bow in front of the wall-mounted shrine, from the oldest to the youngest.

When This custom is performed on several days of the Spring Festival, but most importantly on New Year’s Day. Ancestor worship has been practiced in China every year for thousands of years.

Why Offering sacrifices to ancestors shows respect, piety, and missing departed relatives on such a special festival. It is also believed that ancestral spirits will protect their descendants and make them become prosperous - if regularly worshiped with incense and offerings.

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Visit Chinese temples in Yangon

Illustration & Cartoons by Ben Hopkins

Some of the famous Chinese temples in Yangon that locals visit during the Chinese New Year: Kheng Hock Keong Temple (downtown)

Fushan Temple (Kabar Aye Pagoda Rd.)

Guanyin Gumiao Temple (corner of Mahabandoola Rd. & Latha St.)

Da Ben Monastery (Shwegondaing Rd. - beside Yuzana Hotel)

Yun Nan Temple (Pyay Rd. - Beside Novotel Max Hotel)

Guanyin Si Temple (near Shwedagon Pagoda)

Days 2 - 7 (29 Jan - 3 Feb) Traditionally a married daughter visits the house of her parents on the second day of Chinese New Year.

Lion dances and dragon dances might be seen too on New Year's Day. Once very popular in China, they are reappearing in many places though.

Festivals

From the third day to the seventh day, Chinese visit relatives and friends. On the third day, some Chinese go to visit the tombs of their clan or relatives, but some think being outside on the third day is inauspicious because evil spirits roam around.

The First House Sweep of the New Year Chinese don't clean the house the first two days of the New Year, as sweeping then is believed to sweep away the good luck accrued by the mess of firecrackers, red paper, wrappers, and other evidence of the celebrations on the floor.

edits/guides 10 things to know about CNY

It's big in London and Hong Kong.

The date for Chinese New Year changes each year. It always falls between January 21 and February 20, determined by the Chinese lunar calendar.

500 thousand people converged for Chinese New Year in London's Chinatown, Trafalgar Square, and central London streets in 2015.

In Hong Kong, a big holiday custom is horse racing: The most popular races of all in the city happens on the third day of the Spring Festival holidays when 100,000 excited fans crowd into Sha Tin Racecourse. The spectators watch a grand opening show, a featured lion dance, and a variety of cultural performances and entertainment.

There is the world's biggest annual fireworks usage.

Billions of red envelopes are exchanged.

No single hour in any other country sees as many tons of fireworks lighted as in China around the midnight beginning Chinese New Year. China produces about 90% of the world's fireworks! Fireworks are used to scare evil spirits: Most mainland Chinese believe that the flash and bang of firecrackers and fireworks scare away demons and evil ghosts.

These red envelopes with cash are given out from older to younger, from bosses to employees, and from leaders to underlings. It is a special New Year's bonus. Read more on how to give Chinese New Year lucky money (red envelopes)

The date varies!

4% of the world's population are on the move.

200 million Mainland Chinese travel long distances for these holidays, and it is estimated that there are 3.5 billion journeys in China. For comparison, less than 100 million people travel more than 50 miles during the Christmas holidays in the US according to the American Automobile Association. Tens of millions of people travel in other countries too.

The holiday is oddly called "Spring Festival".

Though in winter, Chinese call their New Year holidays 'Spring Festival', because 'Start of Spring' (4–18 February) is the first of the terms in the traditional solar calendar.

While wintry weather prevails, 'Start of Spring' marks the end of the coldest part of winter, when the Chinese traditionally could look forward to the beginning of spring.

It is a festival for 1/5 of the world's population.

The lantern festival once ended 16 days of festivities.

Lanterns for the Lantern Festival.

Traditionally, the 16 days from New Year's Eve until the Lantern Festival each had a special celebration activity. The Lantern Festival: In the evening of 15th day of the first lunar month, on the night of the full moon, families gather for dinner and go out and see fireworks and light lanterns. Lanterns are put up for decoration, let loose to fly, and floated in rivers.

"Xin Nian Kuai Le" means "Happy New Year" Xin Nian Kuai Le! That's pronounced "sshin-nyen kwhy-luh", by the way.

Every Chinese New Year starts a new animal's zodiac year.

2017 is a year of the Rooster.

Chinese zodiac years: A very old custom is to name the years by one of 12 animals in their zodiac cycle.

For example, 2017 is a year of the Rooster. Many Chinese still believe in astrology and other New Year superstitions.

It's China's winter vacation week, like between Christmas and New Year's Day other countries. Schools in China get about a month off, and universities even more. China, Hong Kong and Macau, and nine other Asian countries have public holidays.

China 1.3 billion in China get three days of public holiday.

Indonesia 250 million people in Indonesia get one day of public holiday.

Philippines 100 million get one day of public holiday.

Vietnam 90 million people get at least three days of public holidays, but the holidays sometimes extends for an entire week by taking away weekends, as in China.

South Korea 50 million people get three days of public holiday.

Malaysia 30 million people get two day of public holiday.

North Korea 24 million people get three days of public holiday.

Taiwan 24 million people get four days of public holiday generally.

Brunei One day of public holiday.

Singapore Two days of public holiday.

Hong Kong Three days of public holidays, extending to four days if the holidays fall on a Sunday.

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Visa Run

Kolkata in 72 hours

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Visa Run

edits/guides

Korakot Nym Punlopruksa flies into India's cultural capital to discover a mesmerizing city of slum and grandeur.

Call it Calcutta or Kolkata, its original name before the British got their hands on it – its character is still the same: a phenomenon of unexpected paradoxes and juxtapositions. It's grandeur and dowdiness, life and death, dream and reality.

Kolkata has a worldwide reputation for its poverty – Mother Teresa lived and died there -- but it is also India's cultural capital. It was the hometown of Rabindranath Tagore, the first non-European to be awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1913, and Satyajit Ray, the outstanding film maker who revealed the secret life of his city.

The dynamism of this hectic metropolis of 14 million seems beyond description.

It's a blur of people and commerce, a sensory overload of past and present, barely controlled chaos of pedestrians competing for space with bicycles, rickshaws, trams, cars, trucks, the metro and "ambassador's taxis." Kolkata will never leave anyone stranded without a surprise.

Every minute in Kolkata makes me feel like witnessing plays on the stage. It’s a theatre of life, a mesmerizing place to visit.

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Visa Run

Day 1 Morning: Flower Market Rise when the sun does and celebrate the morning on the banks of the Hooghly River where the Hindus perform their bathing ritual in the holy water. Admire the handsome Howrah Bridge through the mist of the morning light. I find an odd serenity in this hectic scene. Soak up the mood here before walking to the flower market, a labyrinth of colour. This is the biggest flower market in Asia.

The market is on Mullick Ghat. Walk deeper into this world. Flowers will engulf you; it seems as if they carpet the ground and fill the air. Remain on your toes; you'll have to dodge guys with huge flower baskets on their heads rushing to and fro. You will find yourself standing next to beautiful, old buildings hidden along the river front.

Their original uses are long in the past but they now stand quietly and peacefully, used by the vendors to rest and store their flowers.

Make your way through the tunnels of the flower labyrinth, following the line of the riverbank and the ghats. You will emerge to find yourself standing in an open space full of millions of yellow and orange marigolds, with flecks of red: roses and hibiscus. Beyond this field of colour stands the handsome Howrah Bridge.

This flower market of Kolkata has operated for more than 130 years and has more than 2,500 vendors who sell wholesale and retail. As long as Kolkatans are still praying to their 33 million gods, there will always been the flowers in this market.

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Visa Run

Afternoon: Street Lunch The street food of Kolkata is not only popular among Kolkatans but also well-known among Indians from all over the country. Around the government buildings and offices in the Dalhousie area, the sidewalks are filled with hundreds of food stalls, the air is scented with spices and curry.

Naan from the hot jar. Paratha over charcoal. Fresh sugarcane mixed with ginger. Fresh-brewed chai in a terra cotta cup: You drink up the tea and smash the cup on the floor, sending the terra cotta back to nature.

If street food is too adventurous, there are plenty of restaurants to choose from, featuring specialities of Kolkatan cuisine. One of these is Siddheswari Ashram Hotel, a secret hole in the wall.

This old-school restaurant has been serving incredible dishes for about a century. Sharing the table with strangers is part of the excitement, but the real adventure begins when golda chingri (large pawn) and pabda (fish cooked in Bengali mustard oil curry ) arrive at the table. Enjoy the sensational aroma and the smooth and soothing taste of the curry. Bonus amusement: The waiters have invented a special language to communicate with the cashier. (Siddheswari Ashram Hotel, 19 Rani Rashmoni Road).

Evening: Night Snack Visiting Kolkata will not be complete without witnessing Kolkatans engaging in adda (chit chat) and having a night snack in one of the many alleyways where they meet in the evening to drink tea and debate the topics of the day. One of my favourite is Chitto Badur Chayer Dokan (Chitto Babu’s Tea Stall) in Decker’s Lane. Under the streetlights, people cluster in front of the stall waiting to order either thick toast or a light, spicy chicken stew.

(Decker’s Lane or James Hickey Sarani, Dalhousie)

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Day 2 Morning: Kumaturi Another charming spot in Kolkata where you can experience at once the quietness and madness of the city is Kumaturi. Located in the north, it's the oldest and most authentic village of the city. This area is dotted by many old palaces that were abandoned and seem to be waiting for someone to rediscover them. Kumaturi hosts Durga Puja, the biggest festival in Kolkata. Most of the people who live in Kumaturi are involved in making the mud sculptures of Durga and other gods and goddesses that are featured during the October rite. Orders for the sculptures are placed up to a year in advance. You will get to roam and observe how the sculptors work.

Afternoon: Nakhoda Mosque This is the biggest mosque in Kolkata.

Admire its exterior and then head inside. Volunteers will guide you through the building, which can accommodate some 10,000 devotees at a time. Look up at the ornamentation of the dome, and down at the beautiful marble inlaid floor. It’s beautiful, impressive and surreal.

When you finish roaming, don’t forget to tip your guide with some rupees.

Step outside to join the rhythm of the street again, and visit the area’s perfumeries, leathersmiths and shops selling old keys and other metalwork.

Look around for a chai wallah stand and have a cup of chai and see the incredible wave of people go by before leaving the area. (Nakhoda Mosque: Jacquaria Street, close to the junction of Chitpur Road and Mahatma Gandhi Road)

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Visa Run

Evening: India Coffee House Head to the district called College Street, make your way through the small lanes of the book market and you will find this time-honoured coffee house. It’s famous for being a longstanding meeting place for prominent cultural figures in Kolkata.

It is alive with adda, as patrons engage in political debates or just catch up on one another’s lives. The atmosphere is great, the place feels timeless. Be forewarned: The coffee is nothing to get excited about -- it’s rather watery -- but the ambiance is more palatable.

(15 Bankim Chatterjee Street, College Street)

Day 3 Morning: Goddess and Goodness Kolkata’s name derives from the Kali goddess. Waves of people come to

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pay their respects and ask for protection from the Kali deity. It's more pleasant to visit the site earlier in the morning to avoid the huge crowds.

Both sides of the alley that leads to the temple will be surrounded by flowers, garlands, kum kum (red power), incense and figurines of the Kali diety in many forms. It's a good place to look around for brassware like cooking pots, trays or ornaments. Everyone will be asked to take off their shoes as they approach the temple. Just be prepared to walk barefoot! Inside the temple, photos are not allowed but it's exciting enough to witness the ritual and process. Listen for the sound of the bell from the back of the temple signalling the ritual of the goat sacrifice. (Kalighat neighbourhood) Afternoon: Tea Time Having a break? Go to the Flurys, legendary Kolkata tearoom and bakery.

It was founded in 1927 and is known for its goods as well as its Masala chai,

Visa Run

English tea, Viennese coffee and hot chocolate with fresh cream. (18 Park Street, Taltala) Another oasis is Fairlawn Hotel. The quietly beautiful 200-year-old building has hosted many famous visitors including the cast and crew for the film “The City of Joy” and Sting. The hotel owes its reputation in part to the late Vi Smith, it’s very colourful founder and former owner. It also has a striking living room as hotel lobby that’s painted entirely in green. Come for an afternoon tea and enjoy the history and the atmosphere of this iconic place. (13A Sudder Street, New Market) Evening: Shopping Kolkata is a fantastic place for fabric.

The amazing range of cloth will make your creative mind run wild. Sarees can be used for their conventional purpose – as clothing – but I like to adapt them as home decoration.

There are so many types of sarees to choose from including light cotton threads called Tant saree, or muslin cloth called Jamdani saree that is considered one of the finest textiles of Bengal. (It would be amazing to adapt Jamdani as a light blouse or dress or a pair of pants.) Tussar or Bishnupuri sarees are also great decorating options.

Sarees can be purchased everywhere, from street vendors as well as boutiques. But I like to buy them at several markets, including New Market, the city’s oldest market, which is also known as Hogg’s Market, as well a Gariahat Market.

edits/guides FLIGHT INFO

By Air There are 9 weekly flights from Yangon to Kolkata.

Following airlines and corresponding weekly flights - Asia Wings has 1 and Airmark Indonesia Aviation has 8.

The first flight from Yangon to Kolkata is at 10:20 am, which is Golden Myanmar Airlines 803, followed by Air India 234 which leaves at 1.30 pm.

The last flight from Yangon to Kolkata is at 7.20 pm which is Air India.

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Dining

Myanmore's Guide to Outdoor Dining The milder season is here - time for some outdoor dining! There are a number of local restaurants alongside the lakes, and many other restaurants that have unique and stylized outdoor patios. Here is our selection of what Yangon has to offer:

BY THE LAKE

Signature Restaurant (The Garden Bistro)

L'Opera Italian Restaurant & Bar As the city's no. 1 Italian restaurant, L'Opera, not only offers a great atmosphere and local made pastas, authentic wood-fried pizzas, Italian cold cuts and cheese, fresh salads and many other local and imported ingredients to bring the taste of Italy right to your plate.

62/D, Kan Yeik Thar, U Htun Nyein St., (next to Inya Lake Hotel), Mayangone Tsp., Yangon 01665516, 01660976, 0973030755 11 am - 2 pm, 6 pm - 10.30 pm

Le Planteur Le Planteur is set in a beautiful colonial mansion overlooking Inya Lake. One of the best fine dining experiences since 1998. Their winebar is something to look forward to. You can sample wine in their automated wine bar at a touch of a button. If you fancy high tea, their scenic veranda is the perfect setting.

80, University Road, Bahan Tsp., Yangon 01514230, 01532124 12 pm - 2 pm, 6 pm - 11 pm

Rachel's @ Kandawgyi Palace Hotel In the premises of the former Agnes, the terrace not only overlooks the lake but you also get a beautiful view of the mystical Shwedagon Pagoda, and the gentle breeze makes this a great way to spend a relaxing day.

Kandawgyi Palace Hotel, Kan Yeik Thar Road, Mingalar Taung Nyunt Tsp., Yangon 012492559, 013948379 11 am - 2.30 pm, 6 pm - 10 pm 64 / MYANMORE magazine #3 Jan 2017

The Garden Bistro is set in a peaceful outdoor setting by Kandawgyi Lake.

It's an excellent place to come for breakfast and coffee for a reasonable price.

Corner of Bahan St., & Kan Yeik Thar St., near U Htaung Bo Round, Kandawgyi Relaxation Zone, Bahan Tsp., Yangon 01558827, 01558282 7 am - 10.30 pm

IN THE GARDEN Belmond Governor's Residence Set in beautiful surroundings, the magical terrace of the Governor's Residence offers some of the most mouth-watering food in the city. It is expensive, but for those willing to splurge, it is totally worth it. They have themed nights also, buffet style. Kids menu, baby highchair are available.

35, Taw Win Road, Dagon Tsp., Yangon 01229860-3, 01228260 24 hours (daily)

DiVino Located just opposite Aung San Suu Kyi's house, DiVino is definitely for food lovers. The quality of the products and the skill of the cooks make it a place for good Italian food. Freshly baked wood-oven pizzas are available: check it out in the garden. The outdoor seating is very enjoyable, but beware of mosquitoes!

61, University Avenue, Bahan Tsp., Yangon 01525935, 0930313888 12 pm - 2.30 pm, 6 pm - 10.30 pm

TERRACE

Montage Cafe @ 7 Mile Residence

Padonmar Restaurant Popular amongst large groups of tourists, Padonmar has an eclectic mix of dishes from across Asia. True to local form the portions are well-sized and there’s a great selection of side dishes.

The restaurant is set in an attractive, air-conditioned buildingz and has a large garden dining area.

105/107, Kha Yae Pin Road, Dagon Township 01538895, 0973242410, 095409409 11 am — 11 pm

Le Rendez-Vous @ The French Institute Hidden away at the back of the French Institute's garden, this easygoing eatery has become a secret lunch and dinner haven on Pyay Road. It serves essentially Western foods with a strong French influence and Yangon's bons vivants seem to always meet up there for a couple of glasses of wine.

Jazz night every Wednesday.

40, Pyay Road, French Institute, Sanchaung Tsp., Yangon 09250436951 10.30 am - 11 pm (closed Sundays and Monday evenings)

This very chilled and still unknown cafe serves a variety of comfort foods, ranging from pasta to grilled beef and noodles. Their fresh juices and smoothies are a real delight, especially when enjoyed by the pond.

1/B, 6th Quarter, Kone Myint Yeik Thar Road, Mayangone Tsp., Yangon 01709499, 09420129962 7 am - 9 pm

Shwe Sa Bwe Shwe Sa Bwe is a training school for underprivileged local kids. The trainees, under the watchful eyes of Master Chefs, learn all aspects of a fine dining restaurant. The menus they whip up change every day, and the overall quality improves as the school year passes y.

Malikha Road, near American Club, Mayangone Tsp., Yangon 09421005085 12 pm - 3.30 pm, 6.30 pm - 9.30 pm

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Mandalay & Beyond

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Spend a bit of time in Mandalay and it becomes clear that the city’s residents are deeply passionate about their food. New restaurants are hot conversation topics, daily ‘tea time’ causes office work to come to a screeching halt and it is not unusual to hear of people driving to the other side of town just to get their favourite bowl of mee shay.

But many tourists are left baffled when it comes to Mandalay’s dining options and few get a chance to sample the wonderful flavours on offer. Local restaurants and street stalls do not have English menus, leaving foreigners to test their luck at Burmese language or end up eating bland food at a ‘tourist’ restaurant.

Fortunately, a few of local ‘foodies’ have set up cooking classes to help international visitors discover Mandalay’s tasty treats. Myanmore visited the cooking classes, chatted to the chefs and tasted their food. It was a tough job, but someone had to do it! Here is our run-down of the city’s culinary courses:

Cooking with Alice and Su

Amazing Cooking Class

Family Cooking Class Mandalay

A Glimpse of Mandalay

Established in 2011, Alice and Su’s is Mandalay’s first cooking school. Hosted by the ever-smiling Su and her charming mother Alice, the course focuses on teaching traditional methods and educating guests on Myanmar ingredients. Expect a lot of laughter while you help Su shop at the market and prepare a four-course meal. Depending on the group size and the weather, the course is either held in their guesthouse’s garden or on its breezy rooftop.

Amazing Cooking Class places an emphasis on high-quality ingredients and a fully-immersive gastronomic experience. Guests are picked up from their hotel early in the morning, take a guided walk through the market and enjoy breakfast at a local tea shop before heading to Amazing Restaurant to cook. The husband-wife duo of U Khin Mg Yee and Daw Nang Nang are certified food experts, with three successful restaurants in Mandalay and Monywa, and their course is highly professional.

The city’s latest cooking class is also Mandalay’s only purely vegetarian culinary option. In October 2016, bubbly Soe Soe decided to stop working as a tour guide to share her family’s love of food with tourists. Cooking Class prides itself on creating cultural exchanges and bringing tourists closer to the ‘real’ Myanmar.

Located near Kandawgyi lake in the city’s south, the apartment is a bit far away but the fun course and the low pricetag make the journey worth the effort.

Inspired by Bali’s culinary schools, ‘A Glimpse of Mandalay’ opened in October 2015. This full-day tour combines a gastronomic adventure with a bike ride through Mandalay’s outskirts. Led by Aung Ko Win, guests visit the morning market, a local tea shop and then cook in a traditional-style hut. After feasting on the fresh dishes, there is a guided tour through the vibrant countryside and tranquil villages.

Details: Courses operate on a join-in basis with up to 20 guests. 11.00 – 13.00 Price: 25-35 USD per person (depending on group size) including hotel pick-up and drop off.

Contact: info@mama-guesthouse.com ; 09444043284, 09449255588

Details: Advance notice of 48-hours is required. Group size is 2-12 people. 08.00 – 12.00 Price: 50 USD per person including hotel pick-up and drop off.

Contact: avasmallriverrest@gmail.com ; 0991001921, 04943014574

Details: Courses operate on a join-in basis (maximum 12 guests) every day from 09.00 – 12.30. Private courses and dinner classes on request.

Price: 10 USD per person including lunch plus one soft drink. Transportation is not included.

Contact: soemoekhaing.thiri@gmail.com ; 09974860906

Details: The tours run daily from 09.00 – 18.00 with a group size of 2-8 guests.

Price: 30 USD per person including hotel transfers and bike rental.

Contact: aglimpseofmandalay@gmail. com ; 09444041944

MYANMORE magazine #3 Jan 2017 / 65

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According to the friendly Manager, Ko Myo Min Thet, the restaurant selects traditional cuisine from around Myanmar to preserve and promote the best of this nation’s food in Yangon. The shop has over 80 different dishes as well as seasonal specialties prepared by chefs trained by locals from different regions in Myanmar.

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Outlet 1 INYA LAKE No. (5/A), Corner of May Kha Road and Parami Road, Ma Yan Kone Township, Yangon 01 9660792 PYAY RD

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What it is: If you do not have the time, budget, or energy to travel around Myanmar sampling the cuisine of this golden land, Taing Yin Thar is just the place to go. Located at the heart of Yankin Township, this restaurant welcomes food enthusiasts keen to explore different types of traditional dishes under one roof.

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Okkala Golf Course

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that no dish is pre-cooked. According to the manager, all the dishes can be adjusted to resonate with the customers’ sense of taste while staying true to the original recipe.

Myanmar Deitta

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Pansodan Art Gallery ANAWRAHTA RD

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Parkson's Dpt Store FMI

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MYANMORE magazine #3 Jan 2017 / 67

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Final thoughts: I would strongly recommend who are not familiar with the dishes to ask the approachable and well trained waiters or manager to explain the menu before ordering. One of the best things about this place is

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Note that this is highly recommended by the staff due to its affordability and the fact that the side dishes resonate well with the richness of the coconut rice. Ar Pon, dessert from Myeik islands, has to be my personal favorite since it gave me a wonderful closure after the meal with its milky sweetness.

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Outlet 2 No.(2/A), Kanbae Road, (6) Quarter, Yankin Township, Yangon.

09 787154799 Bin 64 Wine Shop

A New Treasure Art Gallery

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Yankin Center

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Hledan Market

here!

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Yangon University

Aqua Inya Golf Driving Range

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Myanmar Yachting Federation

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Yangon Sailing Club

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Recommendation: Since there are a lot of different dishes, you will defiINYA LAKE nitely find yourself hesitating on what you should have. In this case, you can always order their most popular dish, Za Kaw Hta Min (Gigantic platter of rice with assorted dishes). The price varies from 10,000Ks to 50,000Ks depending on the size of the platter.

Rakhine Style Pork Salad, which has a sly way of slowly burning the tongue, is highly recommended for spicy food lovers. Shan Style Grilled Fish (thoroughly seasoned with sesame seeds) and Rakhine Style Mashed Potato Curry can be used to tone down the spiciness. If you prefer having a single meal, you can always get Coconut Rice (5000 Ks), which includes chicken curry and salad.

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American Club

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Outlet 2 No.(2/A), Kanbae Road, (6) Quarter, Yankin Township, Yangon.

Ph: 09-787154799

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HLAING CAMPUS

MICT PARK

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Gamone Pwint

Kabar Aye Pagoda

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TO FMI CITY / PUN HLAING ESTATE

E G ID BR MI RA PA

Okkala Golf Course

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PYI THU T S

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Nordic Diplomatic Office

Outlet 1 No. (5/A), Corner of Mya Kha Road and Parami Road, Ma Yan Kone Township, Yangon.

Ph: 01-9660792

INT HA MY OP AT RD

TO VICTORIA HOSPITAL (3 KM)

TH AR RD

The room was well lit by the afternoon sun and adorned with ethnic artefacts and paintings, including several tiny Chin Lone beings set against the large glass windows as well as harps, xylophones and paintings bringing to life the ethnic diversity of Myanmar.

Despite the decorative artefacts leaving no doubt about the restaurant’s identity, this shop, unlike most fine dining places I have been to, had a sense of unpredictability looming in its ambience.

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There are two Taing Yin Thar Restaurants in Yangon.

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TO YANGON INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (5 KM)

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Junction 8

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Atmosphere: The restaurant is located in a two-story building with a spacious parking lot. As we entered, we were greeted with a black signboard advertising Kayah fermented rice cocktail (Seasonal Kayah Kaung Yay), and the dulcet tones of a Burmese harp.

YANGON TECHNOLOGICAL UNIVERSITY

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edits/guides

Mocktails

Mocktails better than booze for Dry January Give your liver a break and enter the New Year with MYANMORE's recommended list of alcohol-free 'mocktails' Nobody ever shouts with enthusiasm, “It’s Mocktail O’Clock”, and yet in recent years more and more people are giving up alcohol and embracing a ‘Dry January’ trend. This immense effort for some is a calling to give our livers a break after the excess of festive fun and it joins the popularity train of diets, detoxes and gym memberships when it comes lifestyle change intentions that are ushered in with the dawn of each New Year’s Day. But eliminating the alcohol doesn't have to mean that you're reduced to trying exotic types of spring water every evening.

Even in Myanmar the temperature drops and warm drinks resembling Mulled Wine become attractive. However bar tenders have sought inspiration far and wide to create attractive non-alcoholic tipples that trail blaze the dry January trend.

With this new health initiative, January makes mocktails become hip, and just like we all suddenly want to eat nuts at Christmas, it eases us into that lifestyle change we are seeking. Here are eight mocktail recipes that taste better than booze!

Coconut Sparkler

68 / MYANMORE magazine #3 Jan 2017

Virgin Mary

edits/guides

Mocktails

Cucumber Garden Ingredients 4 large slices of cucumber Sprig fresh oregano Salt 50ml fresh lime juice 30ml guava syrup Slices of lime to garnish Instructions • In a mixing tin muddle the slices of cucumber.

• Clap the oregano between your hands to release the flavour, then add it along with a small dash of salt.

• Add the lime juice and guava syrup.

• Fill the tin with ice and shake vigorously to dilute, mix and chill.

• Double strain into a large glass, top with crushed ice, garnish with lime slices and serve.

Ginger Ninja Ingredients 1/2 cup coconut water 1/2 tsp honey 1/2 inch grated ginger Juice of 1/2 lemon Pinch of seasalt Pinch of turmeric Instructions • Put all ingredients in a jam jar and shake it, until well-mixed.

• Serve straight away in a shot glass with a slice of lemon.

Coconut Sparkler Ingredients 1/2 cup apple & guava juice 1/2 cup coconut water 1/2 cup sparkling water 4 fresh mint leaves Crushed ice Instructions • Pour the juice, coconut water and sparkling water into a jug and stir.

• Add crushed ice to a Champagne glass and pour the mocktail over.

• Garnish with mint leaves or lime.

Winter Berry Punch Ingredients 200ml Ribena 200ml pomegranate juice 100ml apple juice 6 clove buds 2 star anise 1 lemon (quartered) 1 cinnamon stick 1 tangerine (quartered) Instructions • Add all the ingredients to a large saucepan and gently heat for 3-4 minutes, stirring continuously.

• Serve in a mug and garnish with a cinnamon stick and orange twist.

Raspberry and Lemon Fizz On The Rocks Ingredients 2 parts bitter lemon 1 part raspberry juice 1 dash grenadine syrup Lots of ice Slice of lemon to decorate the glass Instructions • Pour in grenadine syrup and raspberry juice into a glass.

• Add lots of ice and fill the rest of the glass up with bitter lemon.

• Add a slice of lemon to garnish.

Super Green Iced Tea (serves 4)

Virgin Mary Ingredients 85ml tomato juice Celery stick Dash of lemon juice 1/2 tsp Worcestershire sauce 2 drops Tabasco sauce Lime or celery to garnish Instructions • Liquidise the ingredients and pour into a tall glass over ice.

• Garnish with a lime wedge or celery stick

Green Is The New Black Ingredients Handful baby spinach Half an avocado 3 inches cucumber 50ml coconut water 100ml pineapple juice 25ml lime juice Dash of agave syrup to taste

Ingredients 4 Tetley Super Green tea bags Sugar, honey or agave Handful of mint leaves, crushed Fresh ginger shavings Fresh lime juice to taste Lime wedges and mint sprigs to garnish Ice Instructions • Put the teabags in 500 ml of boiling water, steep for five minutes, then remove bags.

• Stir in 250ml of cold water and add sugar or honey to taste.

• Add mint leaves, ginger and lemon or lime juice.

• Cool, chill and serve over ice with lime wedges and mint.

Instructions • Blend all the ingredients in a liquidiser and serve with ice and a slice of lime or cucumber.

MYANMORE magazine #3 Jan 2017 / 69

edits/guides

Financial Advice

The Importance of Medical Insurance for Families in Yangon Andrew Wood outlines the essentials of family protection.

Medical insurance had been put in place and the best treatment was sought. The parents knew they had done all they could. Later the poor little girl contracted cancer and this was complex. Whilst the situation was dire the medical insurance enabled the best treatment to be secured.

"Do you have access to the right medical facilities in Yangon and can you afford such treatments?"

Second I knew a father of two, in his thirties, who contracted a rare spinal infection which left him a paraplegic – paralysed from the waist down. He was on the verge of death for a while but recovered and lived. This condition has changed the lives of his entire family.

There are always things we overlook in life. Sometimes we encounter challenges which we could have avoided and the “if only” syndrome hits us like a train.

Starting a family brings a number of obvious new responsibilities to any couple. These are often viewed as fun and exciting and the newbie parents look forward immensely to their recharged lives with little ones; even the sleepless nights are attractive. When the new family member arrives there is a fizz of excitement amongst the entire extended family of each parent.

One of the things you really ought never overlook is the protection of your family. This means guarding against the practicalities of what may happen in the event of any kind of small challenge up to a major catastrophe.

In terms of financial protection there are two main areas. Firstly, some of us encounter major medical challenges in our lives. These can cost heavily.

Secondly, the provision of financial support for the family where the

70 / MYANMORE magazine #3 Jan 2017

breadwinner lose their capacity to create income. This could be disability or even the death of mum or dad or both.

The emotional turmoil in any of these events is devastating. If there are also financial hardships, as well, this makes matters more difficult; sometimes catastrophic.

So, what should you do to provide for these types of event where your family would suffer? What could go wrong where you need to make financial protection arrangements for the family?

Situations of risk could be that any family member may suffer from medical conditions which require serious treatment for protracted periods. Do you have access to the right medical facilities in Yangon and can you afford such treatments?

I have two examples here. First a friend had a new daughter who initially appeared to be perfectly healthy; but then it was discovered that she had a defect in her eye. After seeking treatment there seemed to be only a slim chance that this could be corrected.

This father had consulted with me when he first discovered he was about to make that incredible change in his life and start a family. He and his wife were over the moon and, once the family arrived, were living a very happy life together. We devised a strategy to ensure that in the event of a catastrophe he would have all the critical financial angles covered.

This included medical insurance for the entire family. I suggested that he cover his and his wife’s life and also his earning power. He initially dismissed this notion and was adamant that this could never happen to him. Eventually he saw the sense that it can happen to anyone.

When I visited him after the terrible event one of the first things he said to me was that it really can happen to anyone. His loss of earnings insurance means his insurer pays 75% of his salary as an ongoing income, enabling the family to continue life with dignity and a semblance of unity.

One further blessing was critical illness cover he had instigated. This

provided a lump sum of compensation to him after the event, enabling him to cope with some of the costs of being a paraplegic. He can even afford to buy a car and have it converted for him to be able to drive.

What a great outcome. These insurances were not cheap but have saved the family from disaster and financial ruin giving them the ability to be together and live a decent lifestyle.

The alternative would have been that they would all be facing critical financial difficulties for a long time and not been able to live as a family with decent financial backing. All this was based around the thought that “this will never happen to me”. It does happen to people. These are ordinary folks like you and me.

Have you heard of risk management and perhaps been confused about what this really is? If so congratulations; you have just read your first session on the subject and are sufficiently equipped to comprehend what this means. Now you need to extend the theory and put the insurance protection in place for your own family.

edits/guides

The No.1 App to Restaurants & Bars in Myanmar Download app by scaning QR code:

www.sarmal.com.mm Check out new openings!

Add a restaurant review!

Find out where your friends have been to!

Follow others on their gastronomy adventures!

Make a table booking for a dinner date!

MYANMORE magazine #3 Jan 2017 / 71

myanmore card deals Restaurants 999 Shan Noodle House

- 10% off on total bill - Valid on weekends only, 1 person per card

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- 10% off à la carte bill - Valid everyday, 4 people per card

Orng Kitchen

- 20% Off food bill - Tues to Sunday (12-3),(5:30 -9:30)

ORCHID HOTEL

- 10% off for Restaurant Charges.

- Free fruit tray upon arrival - Valid everyday, 1 person per card

Padonmar Restaurant

- 10% off total food bill for a minimum order of 2 dishes per person.

- Not valid on Set Menu.

- Valid everyday, 4 people per card

Parkroyal Lobby Bar

Shiki Thiki Tei

Green Elephant Restaurant (YGN, MDL,BGN) - 5% discount on total amount - Valid everyday

Gringo Chilangos

- 10% off total bill ( excluding any happy hour 2-for-1 purchase ) - Valid for an individual bill or group bill ( max 10 ) - Offer can not be used in conjunction with any other pre-existing discount arrangements the cardholder may have with Gringo Chilangos - Valid for all days - Maximum 10 persons per card

Harley's

- Buy a regular set meal menu and upsize it for free.

- Valid everyday, 2 people per card

L’OPERA ITALIAN RESTAURANT AND BAR

- 10% off the A La Carte bill (not valid for set menu, business lunch and promotions) - 10% off “Romantic” packages (for couples) - Valid everyday, for cash payment only, for up to 8 people.

Kiplings Restaurant - Green Pan Asian Cuisine @ Savoy Hotel

- Free aperitif (1 glass of house or sparkling wine, draft beer, soft drink) - Valid only with food purchased - For 2 person per card

Le Bistrot @ Savoy Hotel

- Free aperitif (1 glass of house or sparkling wine, draft beer, soft drink) - Valid only with food purchased - For 2 person per card

72 / MYANMORE magazine #2 Dec 2016

Vintage Luxury Yacht Hotel

- 15% off food and drinks - Valid everyday, for 10 people!

Bar & Club Club 5 @ Parkroyal - 15% off bottles of wine and hard liquor.

Club Rizzoli @ Chatrium

Fish & Co Restaurant

- 10% OFF Food, drink & wine + free dessert (cannot be used with other member cards) - Valid everyday - Buy 1 get 1 free of Carlsberg draft beer between 5:00 pm to 9:00pm on every evening .

- Advanced booking required.

- 10% discount ( All Days) *This promotion cannot be used with other promotions* - Valid for 1 person per card - The deals are applicable to the outlets Dagon Centre 1- Myaynigone Ocean Shwe Gon Daing- Tamwe Junction Junction Maw Tin Myanmar Plaza

Spice Brasserie

- 15% off food and drinks - Valid Monday to Friday, booking required - 15% off food and drinks - Valid Monday to Friday, booking required - 15% off food and drinks - Valid Monday to Friday, booking required

Chatrium Hotel The Emporia Restaurant - - - -

10% saving on daily rate Valid all days Advance booking is required 2 persons per card

Tiger Hill Chinese Restaurant

- 15 % saving on Dim Sum Lunch ( minimum order for 2 person ) - Valid all days - Advance booking is required - 4 persons per card

Kohaku Japanese Restaurant

- 15 % saving on A La Carte Menu or Set Menu for Lunch - Valid all days - Advance booking is required - 4 persons per card

Esperado Rooftop Bar & Restaurant - 10% off total bill - Valid on Everyday

Port Autonomy

- 10% off total bill except Happy Hour - Valid everyday (closed on Monday)

Portico Restaurant @ Rose Garden Hotel

10% off daily Business lunch Valid on food items only, on weekdays, 1 person per card.

P For Pizza

- 10% OFF Total bill - Valid everyday - 6 Pax per card (cannot be combined with any other promotion)

TAING YIN THAR

- 10% off total food bill - Valid everyday, 15 people per card.

Cafe @ Residence 26

- 10 % Discount on Food & Beverage. Not valid for promotions.

- Valid for all days from 5 pm to 9 pm - Maximum 2 persons per card

The Pizza Company

- Valid Monday to Friday, not valid for loose drinks

Si Chuan Dou Hua

Fork & Spoon Restaurant & Bar

- 30% off desserts for any main dish purchased - 50% off desserts for hot or cold drink purchased between 2pm and 6pm - Valid everyday up to 12 people per card

- 15% off food and drinks, except Happy hours - Valid Monday to Friday.

- 10% discount on total bill - Valid everyday,1person per card - Advanced booking required, - 10% off on total bill - Not valid with any other promotion - Valid at Fish & Co. Myanmar ( Parami Outlet) and Valid for dining only - Valid for Everyday - Advanced booking is require - Valid for same table/ same group

The Manhattan Fish Market

- 20% saving on total bill - Valid on Saturday and Sunday, ( 10 pm onwards ) - Up to 6 people per card

Dessert Snow Factory - - - -

10 % off Snow Flake Menu 10% off fish cake @BUSAN 10% off Coffee menus Valid everyday, 2 people per card.

Swensen's

- 10% discount ( All Days) *This promotion cannot be used with other promotions* - Valid for 1 person per card - The deals are applicable to outlets Dagon Centre 1- Myaynigone Ocean Shwe Gon Daing- Tamwe Junction Junction Maw Tin Myanmar Plaza

Wellbeing Alice: Eyebrows Tattoo Studio

The New Boris

- - - - - -

Veranda Bar @ Rose Garden Hotel

California Skin Spa

Retro Bar @ Hotel 63

Bee Choo Origin

- 10% off all drinks - Valid everyday, 4pm till late - Buy one Cocktail of the day, get one free (from 4pm to 6:30 pm) - Valid everyday,1 person per card.

- - - - -

Last tequila every Friday and Saturday Gets a round of Carvino tequila Shot 10% Discount on food Valid for only Friday and Saturday Valid for 1-5 persons per card

Union Bar & Grill

- Buy one get one free on Burgers - Monday (5PM -10 PM) - Not available with any other promotional Discount.

Cafe Cafe' Paradise

- 10% Off total bill for breakfast - Weekdays only

Now & Then

- 20% Off total bill (Weekday only) - Dine in only ( can not be combined with others discount and promotions)

One Cool Cafe

- 10% Off On weekday - 15% Off on weekend

20% OFF for every service.

3D Slide Shady 6D Eyebrows Tattoo 3D & 6D Remix Every week of Monday to Thursday Advance call for booking are more than welcome.

- 2 people per card - 20% off selected facial and full body treatments - Valid everyday, advance booking required, 2 people per card - 10 % Discount Herbal hair & Scalp Treatment - If buy product 3 items 10% Discount - On weekdays

Inya Day Spa

- 15%discount on all spa services - 10%discount on Thai Body Massage - Valid everyday,1 person per card, booking recommended

Parkroyal Fitness & Spa

- 15% off spa treatments, except Happy Hours.

- Valid Monday to Friday, booking required.

Spa Elements

- 15 % off - JAMU pre- and post-natal care packages - 10% off - Face, body and foot spa // ManiPedis // Hair // Waxing and scrub - Valid on Wednesday & Monday, 1 person per card.

The Bodyguard

- This hair salon and massage parlour had been designed by men and for men only.

- 15% off from 10:30am to 5:30 pm - Valid everyday, 2 people per card

Vintage Luxury Yacht Hotel

- 10% Off total bill/ Person/Group(5 people).

- Not applicable for on going promotion .

- 10% off all SPA treatments - Valid everyday, for up to 10 people!, Advanced booking recommended.

The Gallery Cafe

Yangon Hair & Beauty Center

Saigon Bagutte & Cafe'

- 5% Off on everyday

Easy Cafe and Restaurant

- 10% Off Total Minimum spending of 8000 kyats and Above .

- Not valid for retail products.Maximum party size of 4 .

- 20% off any single treatment - 10% off packages - Valid weekdays, one person per card

Y.G.N by Muguet Japon Health Spa and Wellness Center

- One free Beer or glass of wine with meal for parties two and above - Tuesday through Sunday.

WTC - World Training Center

- 10% off entire selection of coffees - Valid everyday, for 2 people.

- 10% off - Head & Shoulder , Foot Massage , Dry Massage (Japanese, Myanmar & Thai) - Pedicure , Manicure - Weekdays Only

Thai 47

Meringue Cafe

YVES Rocher Spa

Raw Ram

- 10% Off total bill in all branches - Everyday

- 10% Off from the total bill if you spend at least 5000 kyats.

- Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer

- 10% off total bill - Valid everyday, one person per card

Enjoy greater discounts and privileges with your MYANMORE Card. To sign up, log on to www.myanmore.com

Sapel Spa @ Hotel 63

- Two Beers or Cocktails after spa treatment - Valid for all days - Valid for 1-5 persons per card

Gym Balance Fitness

- 15% off 6 months or 1 year membership contract - Discount cannot be used with other promotions - Valid everyday, 1 person per card.

Chatrium Health Club - - - -

10 % saving rate Valid all days Advance Booking is required 2 persons per card

Shopping Patrick Robert The Gallery

Orchid Hotel - - - -

10% off on all published room rates 10 % off restaurant charges Free fruit tray upon arrival Valid Sunday to Thursday, 1 person per card, advance booking required

Platinum Hotels

4 outlets in Yangon - 20% off on all published room rates - Valid everyday, one room per card, at Hotel Platinum Tamwe, Mini Platinum Guesthouse Bahan, Platinum Riverview Hotel Dagon, Royal Platinum Hotel Bahan

Thahara -

5% off on the published rates for all package booking from Oct to April - 10% off on the published rates for all package booking from May to September - Valid everyday, 2 people per card, advance booking required.

- 5% discount in all showroom items.

- Valid everyday (closed Sundays), one person per card

Vintage Luxury Yacht Hotel

The Warehouse

Golden Silk Road Hotel

Vestige Mercantile & Relics

Hotel 63

- 15% off total bill - Valid everyday, 1 person per card - - - - - -

10% off total bill.

Valid everyday at: Vestige Flagship Store, Yangon Vestige Kiosk, Avenue 64 Hotel.

Vestige Flagship Store, Nay Pyi Taw Valid everyday, 1 person per card

YVES Rocher

- 10% off all products - Valid everyday, 1 person per card

Activity WTC - World Training Center

5% off Barista & Bakery classes Valid everyday, 1 person per class.

Hotel Amata Hotels - My Bagan Residence

- 30 % off on published rate for accommodation - 10 % off food & Beverages at restaurant of AMATA - 10% off Nibbana Spa

Amata Hotels - Riverside Hsipaw Resort

- 25 % off on published rate for accommodation - 10 % off on food & beverages at restaurant of AMATA - 10% off Nibbana Spa

Amata Resort & Spa - Ngapali Beach

- 20% off on published rate for accommodation - 10% off food & beverages at restaurant of AMATA - 10% off Nibbana Spa

Amata Garden Resort - Inle Lake

- 30% off on published rate for accommodation - 10% off food & beverages at restaurant of AMATA - 10% off Nibbana Spa

Bayview The Beach Resort

- 10% OFF on accommodation only based on published websites rate - Not combinable with other promotions - All year - 1 room per card (any category)

Grand Laurel Hotel

- 10% off on published room rates for all room types - Free welcome drink - Free use of hotel gym during stay

Hotel 51

- 15% off on all room types.

- Valid everyday, 1 person per card

Inle Lotus Hotel

- 20% off total bill, incl Ticketing, Rentals, Trekking.

- Valid everyday, 3 rooms per card, booking required

- 10% off all room rates - Valid everyday.

- 5% Discount on Room Charges Monday to Friday - 1 Card per two persons - Be local, 39000 compulsory rooms without breakfast ( C/i 12pm- C/o 12pm ) - From Monday to Thursday - Email reservation is required - Valid for 1-5 persons per card

Savoy Hotel

- 10% OFF on accommodation only based on published websites rate - Not combinable with other promotions - All year - 1 room per card (Deluxe or Suite)

Summit Parkview Hotel

- 10 % Discount on Food and Beverage at Cafe, Dagon Bar & Pastry Counter - Valid for all days - Advance Booking is required - Valid for 5 pax per card

Services 5Ă sec

- 5% off all services - can not be used in addition to any other loyalty card offer - 7 days a week, 365 days a year, no blackout dates

Hintha Business Centres

- One hour free wifi + a cup of Gourmet coffee once a month.

- 10% off Meeting room rentals - 10% off Hot Desk packages (Daily, weekly, monthly) - 2 for 1 on hourly Hot Desk rental - Valid everyday, 1person per card, advance booking recommended

Myanmar National Airlines

- 10% off Base Fare flight ticket - Applicable at MNA Head Office ticket counters ONLY - Airport tax & other surcharges shall be borne by passengers - Not applicable for promotion flights - Management reserves the right to amend the T&Cs without prior notice

Top Speed Auto Services

- Body Work and Painting ; 15% off (discount for labour only) - Oil Change and Compute Diagnostics: 50% off (discount for labour only) - All Repair Services : 10% off (discount for labour only) - Monday - Saturday ( 9am-5pm) - 2 persons per card

E V E N T

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VOTE NOW

For your favourite restaurant and bar to win!

Option 1 Download “Sarmal” app on your mobile to view nominees and vote.

Option 2 Log on to www.myanmore.com/yangon/awards2017 74 / MYANMORE magazine #3 Jan 2017