Myanmore Magazine - No.42/ June 2020

#42, June 2020

ROCK OF AGES ZAW WIN HTUT MY 5 FAVOURITE DESTINATIONS IN MYANMAR TO VISIT SCIENTISTS GOING MAD (!)

THE ''MAD MEN" OF COLONIAL BURMA

#42, June 2020

magazine Managing Director Andreas Sigurdsson Managing Editor Min Ye Kyaw Editorial Assistant Hsu Myat Lin Naing Cover Photo Zwe Wint Htet Illustration Ben Hopkins Photography Belpearl Myanmar Khiri Travel Contributors Adam Perrell Christian Gilberti Mary Banfield Melissa Tan Nay Thiha Art & Production Win Zaw Htun

12 Scientists Going Mad (!)

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The Tea Shop

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Cover Story Zaw Win Htut : Rock of Ages

22 The Mad Men of Colonial Burma

Travel 12 My 5 Favourit

Destinations in

Myanmar to Visit

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Eat & Drink DD Chicken Delivery: Juicy Rotisserie Chicken and Sandwiches

Feature 14 Visiting Myanmar's Pearl Farm Paradise

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Chef’s Favourite: Charcoal Grilled Eggplant & Lemon Prawn

Arts 26 San Minn: Modern Artist's Surreal Vision

Printer Rhythm Force Offest Permit No. 01588

TV 28 Streaming Highlights

for June 2020

Sales & Advertising sales@myanmore.com 0977 900 3701 / 3702

30 Music 32

Shopping

34 Tech Talk

About Myanmore MYANMORE Magazine is an English language publication that started in 2014. It is the print version of MYANMORE.COM which launched in 2013 and has consistently maintained its status as the go-to source of inspiration, curating the best things to do and the coolest places to go. Locals and visitors trust us to cut through and help them discover incredible things to eat, drink, see and do. We know because we go!

The magazine you are reading is distributed for free and finance by advertising. The editorial content is exactly the same, 100% editorial. MYANMORE is politically independent but you can trust that we believe in gender equality. We believe in great content and experiences, and our mission is to inspire and enable you to enjoy and explore the best of Yangon and Myanmar.

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Publisher MYANMORE Magazine Pyit Thiri Thaw Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited Permit No. 01588

Give us your feedback Believe it or not, but we love to hear from you both good and bad.

You can find us on social media, email, web, and even through our physical office if you prefer to come over for a chat over a cup of coffee or tea. editor@myanmore.com www.facebook.com/myanmore www.instagram.com/myanmore www.linkedin.com/company/myanmore https://www.myanmore.com/contact/ Address 2nd Floor, Urban Asia Center, Corner of Mahabandoola Road and 48th Street, Botahtaung Tsp, Yangon, Myanmar.

SUPPORTING BUSINESS THAT SUPPORT THEIR WORKERS It was the last day that the Thai Restaurant was open for business in March.

The waiter explained he and the other staff would go home to their villages.

With the daily minimum wage of 4800 MMK having a nest egg must be almost impossible.

No medicine, no food? Some employers, however, have gone out of their way to support the nation to address poverty, to halt the spread of Covid-19 while creating new jobs.

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ere follows a recap of some of the initiatives we have seen in the Yangon community over the last month: Catering for the quarantine centers and hospitals - Restaurants and companies such as Seezar Catering (Gloria Jeans Coffee) and Khine Khine Kyaw Burmese Restaurant have been active providing food for workers, and teams like Chef Ong and his chefs produce over 1,000 food boxes every day!

Unique packaging and delivery services - Many restaurants have worked hard to provide food for delivery and also cover their own costs. RTH & Burbet did an innovative partnership to offer a

complete kit of all you need for a great dinner. Beauty In the pot has been going strong through the lockdown satisfying its fans, and smaller restaurants like Othentic have adapted and started to provide homemade groceries for home cooking.

New concepts - Chef Davy at Shwe Sa Bwe launched DD Chicken with Damian Lau to provide delivery of grilled chicken prepared in a charcoal stacked rotisserie cooker, providing work for the staff of Shwe Sa Bwe. The Penthouse team realized that the choice of food for delivery was limited so they recreated their kitchen facilities to launch different food concepts – Healthy Lebanese Cuisine; Pasta Box and

Couscous Kitchen.

Shopping - Having been limited to City Mart previous years, big changes came this April as Metro launched its online shop with next day deliveries and Marko opened its wholesale store giving people a whole new retail experience with low prices and good quality. Influencers like Zin Thae Naing has also been actively catering to the needs of the online community by providing mango, bread and bulgogi machines through her Facebook page.

Education - With schools closed International schools such as Dulwich and BSY have all quickly adapted and shown the way how

to provide online and home learning for its students. Professional training providers such as Myanmar Project Management Center (MPC) also quickly launched regular webinars and moved its trainings online to help people develop skills while at home.

This is not a comprehensive list and for those you know who are making extraordinary efforts to support the community please make a comment and we’ll share it.

We want to give a special thank you to frontline workers and those who continue to work, care for, protect and build Myanmar during these unprecedented times.

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THE TEA SHOP ILLUSTRATION: BEN HOPKINS

Earthquake Shaked Four Monasteries in Sagaing Region On 4th March, a moderate earthquake destroyed four monasteries in two cities in Sagaing region, according to the Department of Meteorology and

Hydrology. Four monasteries in Mawlu and Indaw cities were destroyed and some other places were damaged. An official from the department stated that the damaged places will be reinforced.

There was also a small earth- quake of magnitude 3.5 in Kalewa Township but no damages were reported.

Pyin Oo Lwin Urge to List 5 Buildings on Heritage List Locals in Pyin Oo Lwin are urging to list 5 buildings in town to be on the national heritage list. Those include the General Hospital, All Saints Church, Survey Training Center, Thaw Ka Myaing and Basic Education School No.1. Residents claimed that these colonial-era buildings are the best examples to show the heritage of once-colonialtown Pyin Oo Lwin aka May Myo, surrounded

by Shan Hills in Central Myanmar.

Thingyan Festival OďŹƒcially Canceled due to the Global Pandemic Thingyan Water Festival, which is held annually in April, was canceled due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Since the virus can spread faster in crowded areas, any kind of events and celebrations have been prohibited. Although pandals were not allowed, people could splash water on a smaller scale.

Myanmar Fights Against COVID-19 As the world suffers from the Coronavirus pandemic, Myanmar also does its best to battle the crisis COVID-19 is bringing on. Myanmar has reported over 200 confirmed cases and death still in the single digit. With the semi-lockdown being relaxed social distancing is still required and face masks a requirement in Yangon.

Major Cinema Groups Suspended Operations over COVID-19 Cinema chains such as JCGV and Mingalar suspended their operations across the country since mid-March and the opening date is yet to be announced. A tough time for movie lovers as many much-awaited films are also postponed.

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ZAW WIN HTUT: ROCK OF AGES

To all Myanmar, Zaw Win Htut is a perennial renegade hero who needs no introduction.

A behemoth of rock whose musical legacy spans almost four decades, he has indelibly influenced the fashions and emotions of generations of Myanmar’s people. Myanmore visited his excellent new F&B venture - the rock and roll styled 1964 Gastro Pub - in an attempt to fathom how one survives over thirty-five years of headbanging in The Golden Land.

TEXT: SAM D. FOOT PHOTOS: ZWE WINT HTET

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hen in Yangon, by far my largest pleasure is gained from rocking out to the anthems I encounter as I go about my day-to-day: fabulous guitar wails and questioningly sweet vocals emit from taxis and trucks, from phone shops and grocery stores, and from booze-halls the town over. When greeted by the opening bars of Min Shi Tae Myo, A Mae Lite A Ka, or Way Twar Lal, I am triggered - a Pavlovian urge to strut and spit out lyrics incomprehensible to any language becomes me, and all is good in the world. I know you expats feel the same.

To this, we owe gratitude to one man: Zaw Win Htut. It is no exaggeration to say that without ZWH - and his band, Emperor - Myanmar would be an entirely different, altogether less musty, less edgy, and less melodic place.

ROCK OF AGES Zaw Win Htut is Myanmar’s great musical centrifuge, the most influential singer in a country of fifty-five million people. Of unquestionable musical

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pedigree, he was born into music, spent a life in music, and has provided the soundtrack to the lives of generations of Burmese.

Alice Cooper - all that good stuff.” To a boy growing up in 1970’s Mandalay this must have felt like being given access to the secret source.

His grandfather, the composer Shwe Daing Nyunt, is a national treasure who, before his untimely death at the age of thirty-three, notated a number of lingering Burmese anthems - not least Only The Army Can Save The Country, a patriotic ditty that you may have heard this recent Armed Forces Day. ZWH’s mother, Tin Aye, or simply “Hta,” is also a golden girl of classical Myanmar music. Various other relatives, including his brother, Emperor guitarist Zaw Myo Htut, and son, the bluesman, Ito, are prominent musicians in Yangon.

“I spent twelve years in Mandalay.

At the time, nobody had heard anything like this. Slowly, as we lived on the Irrawaddy, sailors coming from abroad would bring us cassette tapes.

Still, none of my friends at school listened to rock music - just me, my brother, and my father. Down south, in Yangon, the rock movement had already started with Min Min Latt (the father of rapper Anegga, founder of Myanmar’s infamous original Hip Hop crew, Acid.) He set it all up and, later, in 1990, he produced my first music video, the first ever music video in Myanmar. This came before MTV, and was recorded on a VHS that we passed around.”

A grounding in folksy, courtly, and martial music could not have prepared anyone for the rock and roll attitude that Zaw Win Htut unleashed upon an unsuspecting Myanmar in the 80’s.

How did his illustrious musical forebears feel when he came out rocking?

“Well, my father was a medical doctor who loved all kinds of music. In 1973 he spent a year in the UK and returned with arms full of vinyl - Deep Purple,

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ZWH’s early learnings in music were received from his mother, the classicist training him in the burmese harp and xylophone (on which, he counters my scepticism by imparting this enlightening wisdom: “You think Myanmar classical music is all noise and improv?

Try memorising those incredibly long

patterns!”) However, after moving to Yangon in his early teens, he fast began imitating the first wave of Myanmar rock bands, most of whom were playing covers of songs heard over the BBC World Service.

In the early 80’s ZWH and his brother formed their first musical vehicle, Oasis, in the process laying claim to being perhaps the first of at least two sibling-led bands to coin the name.

“We had a female lead singer, Phyu Thi, who is now very famous independently. She was stage-shy, so eventually we decided to change it up.” Oasis became Emperor.

In 1983, ZWH and his brother laid down their first album, Mercury Nya (Mercury Night) - produced by their medical doctor father. “I sang six tunes, and my brother sang six. There were only one or two studios and LPs were made on a tape reel recorder then offered to the shops. The shop would decide which songs to buy - sometimes only one track - then they’d copy it to sell on cassette.”

Imitating Queen’s genius guitarist, Brian May, the brothers built their own guitars and effects.

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Recording coincided with the era of censorship. “We had to show everything to the board and explain the lyrics to officials. Needless to say, we would usually have to remake the entire reel before it would be released!” What upset censors the most? “”Freedom” and general ideas around that theme, as they were all from military intelligence. Later on, we were forced to add nationalistic songs for the country. To be honest, they were fun to make. This has all changed now, it is a lot freer - true censorship only lasted twenty years."

Coming out, in the 80’s, to a general public with little access to rock music was a gift to Emperor. Early albums abound with Burmese language reimaginings of classic songs by giants of the times; Guns N’ Roses, Aerosmith, AC/DC. At the height of the San Yu era, ZWH was living every contemporary Western boy’s air guitar dream: laying claim to others’ internationally proven stadium filling hits, and owning them in front of huge adoring crowds innocent of the songs’ provenance.

“One song that formed our style early on was Woman From Tokyo by Deep Purple. However, it was Rod Stewart and The Faces that inspired me the most. His voice is pretty similar to mine - at the time nobody in Myanmar accepted that kind of voice, so it was my only reference.” Comparisons with the Scottish hip-swinger are obvious: Myanmar rock’s elder statesman’s voice is macho and as gravelly-yetslick as the country’s emerging mountain highways. His songs are universal in their accessibility and sentiment, and his lyrics are simple yet cutting and dashingly romantic.

ROCK REVOLUTIONARIES Cast, in a rather reductionist analysis,

by TIME Magazine as a stooge of the military, Zaw Win Htut’s musical peak occurred in a period dogged by censors. Whilst predictably playing up the moot point of the musician’s friendships with military officials, foreign critics downplay the remarkable fact that this music, and the spirit it evoked, was allowed at all - and the fact that hard rock music continues to profoundly influence Myanmar’s public psyche to this day.

It is not only the huge Nazi-era symbols pasted onto the backs of many of the country’s Nissan Corollas that serve as reminders of this legacy (they are logos of Emperor’s only true rock

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rival, the unfortunately named but musically masterful, Iron Cross.) The tune that forty-something geezer is whistling in Win Star? If it isn’t by Lay Phyu or Myo Gyi it is almost guaranteed to be a ZWH. The reason that about fifty percent of U-lays-of-aroguish-persuasion that you will encounter have receding dark hair to their shoulders? Also ZWH. 40 degrees celcius Myanmar’s per capita over-representation of leather clad bikers and shifty tattoo veiled akos?

Certainly ZWH. Ni lays keeping you awake at one in the morning from the banks of Inya Lake with their guitars and their quarts of Grand Royal? Quite probably under the influence of ZWH. Emperor emerged as masters of a long-lasting musical revolution in Myanmar. “We were the lead example of the rock revolution in Myanmar.

That got the government’s interest up, and they monitored everything from our lyrics to our clothing.” Morphing with the Western styles and fashions of the times, Emperor singlehandedly started Myanmar’s leather jacket craze. “David Coverdale [Whitesnake] and Robert Plant [Led Zeppelin] were the main influences. At the time, we could feel that it was a big deal - the 80’s was a golden age of rock music and bringing it all to Myanmar was a dream.”

Perhaps the biggest scandal involved the length of the band’s hair: “We were, from time to time, forced to cut our hair,” observes ZWH, his impressive dark mane hanging resolutely past his shoulders. Indeed, from the 1970s onwards, patrols of scissor-endowed cops had been forcibly chopping the locks of Myanmar’s youths. In 1990, the government went so far as to ban all long-haired performers from taking the stage.

But not ZWH. “I wouldn’t listen. My long hair represents my free spirit.”

LORDS OF ROCK Forty years in rock puts Emperor in the same, exclusive, longevity bracket as acts such as The Rolling Stones.

How did the energetic fifty-six year old survive? “When we got famous, we didn’t know how to act - we never thought it would happen. Sometimes we look back at those mad tours and wonder how we passed through these things!” I interject: “People have the impression that Myanmar is a rather restrictive place for things like that, but I’ve never found it so.”

The frontman instantly follows up on

this leading question: “People from outside love to think that Myanmar is so restrictive, you are right. But in the case of [partying like a rockstar], it is just not true!”

“Later into our career, we did some reflection and got in check - what is important is that I never wanted to act like a star. From the start, I have just acted normal and hung out with normal people. If you ever start to think you are a star you will have a big problem,” claims the legend who, only thirty minutes earlier, had pulled up to his bar in a blacked-out Hummer. “How does it feel to walk down the street with every single person knowing who you are?” I ask.

A wide grin emerges. “Well… I love that life!” he deservedly chortles.

like! I keep getting requests to sing it, and it is hell on stage! In ‘94 I wrote an entire album for an artist from Mandalay who passed away. We recorded all the songs and I made a singing guide for him. The band member loved the final vocal cut - even though all the songs were written out of my key. It became the most successful album of my career - the shops couldn’t copy them fast enough! Then we had to do a whole tour - Iron Cross’s first major support tour - with me singing in this damn style. The two or three albums after weren’t as popular because we went back to what I felt comfortable with!”

ZWH attributes much of the longevity of Emperor to his brother, Zaw Myo Htut. “He can’t get away from me!,”

we jam at Gulliver’s by Inya Lake.

All kinds of musicians get together - from rockers to violinists!”

How does the master feel about his musical legacy? “The music scene in Yangon is now more creative - a lot of bands write their own stuff.

At Emperor or Iron Cross concerts we would play a lot of covers - a lot of Kiss songs in particular - but the new bands are more original. It is a new musical revolution! These kids are sick and tired of the old bands and the music we have played for forty years - and have more freedom to learn and play.” He looks up, smiling: “One thing, however! The singers are not as good! They are less hardcore - they don’t learn from the history of music, from bands like the Beatles.

to introduce a more tasteful music style to Myanmar, as the music is now very mainstream. The whole world is looking for new original music, but a lot of people stick to the mainstream.

Some guys are breaking the mould - the most notable are Idiots and Wanted. They are impressive, but they are playing for the girls! What is great is that, in Myanmar, it is still all self taught - they grab a guitar and rock.”

When asked, with all this in mind, “who is the biggest rockstar in Myanmar?”

The response is instant, delivered with a knowing smile: “The Ozzy Osbourne of Myanmar is Playboy Than Naing.

Yeah, he really is a badass!.. Still, I might add, at the age of 70!” Nods of respect all round.

ROCK ON LOCKDOWN IPAs in hand, we are obliged to address the current global situation, a pandemic which already claims Iron Cross front man, Myo Gyi, amongst the infected. “We have currently cancelled all our tours because of the coronavirus. For good or ill, I think that the average Burmese person is not so worried about this virus. Myanmar people are tough. We drink river water! To be honest we are more likely to die from hepatitis… and liver problems from drinking! Says ZWH, tongue in cheek.

Indeed, as Zaw Win Htut speaks, you feel that this truly is a man who has led a fulfilling life, devoid of the selfinflicted dramas that plague his Western rockstar counterparts. Even his worst times seem to flow from his unstoppable knack for success. “I’d say the hardest stretches of time in the band have been driven by the high expectations placed on us by our friends and our fans. After we release an album, sometimes one song is singled out as a favourite that I really do not

he laughs, “I give him a lyric, and he comes back with a riff in the right style. Outside of music, we maintain our own lives. After we record we go back to our families, when we meet we drink but we don’t talk about music.

We also have a lot of side projects - at this age, I would love to do projects like Ozzy Osbourne, getting people like Elton John to play for him. A Myanmar supergroup! That’s the next phase. I love to jam: I gather all the artists I like to my 9 Mile studio, or

They look after themselves better, but have less spirit.”

In a time in which the global music industry is going through huge changes, Myanmar is no different. “Physical sales are over. To make a living you play shows - mostly free shows that are paid by the sponsor of the show. Streaming music can make you a bit of money if you make a real big hit - and because of this, we don’t see much experimentation. We need

And how does a Myanmar megastar spend his lockdown? Aside from having three tracks laid down on a new album, running his eclectic radio station, FM Bagan, and an ever increasing number of grandchildren to see to, Emperor’s lead man indulges in that most beloved hobby of Burmese celebrities, painting. “I have painted since I was young. I love impressionism and, to relax, I copy Van Goghs and Monets. I also used to copy album covers - especially those of Iron Maiden and Dio. Painting for me is meditation - I don’t usually sell my works, I give them away to people I admire.” The rockstar shows me a remarkable sketch of Bagan, in ink and watercolours. Next, he reveals his version of the cover of the 1987 Iron Maiden classic, Run To The Hills - a tribute to his love of lurid, apocalyptic 1980’s album artwork, Eddie The Head included.

So… what are we drinking? “Well, I am at the age where I now only drink single malts - Ballantyne, Macallan.

Come, look at the whiskey collection behind the bar...”

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MY 5 FAVOURITE DESTINATIONS IN MYANMAR TO VISIT (ONCE IT’S SAFE AGAIN TO TRAVEL…) TEXT: EDWIN BRIELS

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s we avoid crowds and promote physical distancing to help combat the looming pandemic, we can’t help but daydream of adventures to come. The hashtags #stayhome so we can #traveltomorrow are trending reminders to follow government instructions, and to save the next trips for another day.

I have picked my 5 favourite destinations in Myanmar to visit once it’s OK again to travel. Enjoy them individually, or combine them for a fuller discovery of rural Myanmar.

1– Northern Shan state Daily direct flights to Lashio make the area easy to reach, and overnight buses help save a few pennies.

The food is healthy and tasty and the mountainous region is always a bit cooler than Yangon. What else to do in Hsipaw apart from tasting delicious Shan food? Enjoy the relaxed atmosphere of Hsipaw town and visit the old place where Inge Sargent, the famous the princess and author of the book “My life as a Shan princess” lived. Go for guided day walks to Shan and Palaung villages around Hsipaw or Kyaukme or stay overnight

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in a traditional village. Peddle your way around on a bicycle to, ride a boat on the Dokthawaddy River or hop on the train for a fun rickety ride over the Gokteik Viaduct. There are plenty of charming lodges and guesthouses in Hsipaw like Mr Charles Riverside bungalows or Tai House.

And yes, the area is safe to visit, as long as you hire a professional local guide and keep within permitted trekking zones in the countryside.

2– The dry zone (Bagan combined with Yandabo, Salay or Yenangyaung) After more than 20 visits to Bagan, I still discover “new” places (though some are over 1000 years old). Easy to reach by plane, bus or even train, Bagan offers fantastic hotels with pools to hide from the heat, all at great value. Build in some extra days to swim and relax! Rent an e-bike to discover some of the temples on your own or support a local tourist guide to really go deeper into the history, cultural significance and the reason this area is the newest Unesco World Heritage Site. Combine the trip with a night or two on the riverside in nearby towns with a lot of rural charm like Yenanyaung (stay

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at Lei Thar Gone guest house for a pool and fantastic views over the Ayeyarwaddy), Yandabo (pamper yourself at Yandabo Home) or Salay (the friendly Salay Riverview Inn).

Discovering one of these towns is great fun and shows you a very different Myanmar.

3– Mon & Kayin state An easy 6h drive on a smooth road, the Mon state offers a lot of culture, diverse landscapes and tasty homecooked Mon food. Certainly visit the stunning Seindon monastery; built by a former Mandalay Palace princess

Mon State - Mawlamyine Seindon Mibaya monastery.

who became a nun in Mawlamyine.

About 1.5 hour by boat from Mawlamyine you find the stunning monasteries and temples constructed over 100 years ago by the famous trader U Na Auk; possibly the most beautiful temple complex I have ever seen in Myanmar. Kayin state offers staggering landscapes with limestone mountains and mysterious caves. Don’t forget to visit the newly discovered water cave by boat and go for a beautiful sunset from the nearby cave. Hpa An town now offers a lot of good food including some of the best Thai food in Myanmar, try it at the lively night

Bagan Temple view swing with Khiri Travel.

Maung Shwe Lay bay view from Lalay lodge.

hotel Lalay Lodge for accommodation or lunch), or go further out to the long stretch of Chaukkalat beach.

Though there are many hotels along in the area, definitely book in advance.

If you have your own car, you could also decide to stop at any of the other beaches like Gwa (we recommend Arakan Nature Lodge) or Kanthaya, along the scenic road along the coast of southern Rakhine state.

market at the Hpa A riverside. Many new hotels have sprung up recently including the Zwekapin Valley Resort & Spa with an excellent pool, My Hpa-An Residence which gives you the feeling of being in a cottage at a rubber tree plantation and the boutique style Keinnara Hpa An.

4– Southern Shan state A perfect to combination with the Northern Shan state, thanks to the road from Nawnghkio to Pindaya.

Southern Shan state is famous for towns like Kalaw, Pindaya, Nyaung Shwe and of course Inle Lake. Lesser known and with excellent accommodation is Samkar Lake just south of Inle Lake. No need to feel bored in this part of Myanmar as you can do walks, bike rides or boat rides and visit the famous Pindaya caves (or the lesser known Shwe Oo Min caves in Kalaw). Restaurants offer a lot of variation in this part of Myanmar with the Danu influences in Pindaya (and a lot of fresh vegetables), Nepalese in Kalaw (including excellent chapati and dhal) and Shan or Pa O around Inle Lake. If you need a more international fix, Nyaung Shwe’s more diverse and tourist-friendly restaurant scene is your answer. A classic day

Attention: Many hotels only reopen on the 1st October this year, do check in advance if your favorite hotel is open.

It’s hard to predict when travelling will be OK again but I do know for sure that this too shall pass.

Local Pa O home from Sourthern Shan State.

on the lake with a boat is a must-do, but our secret is to combine it with an organized tour that includes biking, kayaking or even a romantic floating lunch. Some of my favourite hotels in Kalaw and Pindaya are certainly the Pindaya Farm House and the Kalaw Heritage Resort. For hotels with a relaxing pool choose Thanakha Inle, Sanctum Inle Resort, Villa Inle Boutique and Spa, the Inle Princess or the more modern Sofitel Inle Lake.

5– Rakhine beaches A few days on the beach is always a relaxing treat, and some sunshine is great for the soul! After a cultural or active trip exploring another part of Myanmar, fly over to Thandwe for a quiet respite. Pre-book a stay on Ngapali beach, the more remote Maung Shwe Lay Bay (45 minutes boat ride away, speak to the boutique

Tell us which destination you’re dreaming of while staying at home.

Edwin Briels is MD of Khiri Travel Myanmar and has been working over 15 years in travel in Myanmar and will share his experiences travelling in Myanmar in a monthly column.

Khiri Travel 01 375 577 edwin@khiri.com khiri.com

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VISITING MYANMAR’S PEARL FARM PARADISE TEXT: MARY BANFIELD

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n the southern tip of Myanmar, a tiny, colourless town, Kawthaung, looks out towards paradise. At the beginning of the Mergui Archipelago, a system of 800 coral islands was set over 1,000 kilometers. It’s home to the Moken, ‘Sea Gypsies’ and where Belpearl threw open their doors to welcome travelers to visit their pearl farm on the remote Golden Island.

In 2014 brothers Michael and Sarkis Hajjar took the risk of a lifetime becoming one of Myanmar’s first private companies with permission to build a pearl farm, Belpearl.

With a commitment to sustaining a healthy, symbiotic relationship between science and nature Belpearl has edged a reputation for producing the largest pearls possible with a lustre that’s the envy of the world.

In 2019 the brothers tiptoed deeper into the venture, joining an exclusive pilot program, where travelers could visit their farm on Shwe Kyun, or Golden Island. It’s no financial risk, but care needs to be taken to protect the ecosystem from being tipped out of balance, endangering the Oysters.

For tourists, visiting the farm is a unique experience to an idyllic tropical island and to witness the seeding of a pearl, Oyster Hatcheries and swim in the turquoise ocean.

As the boat rocks towards the concrete pier of Shwe Kyun there’s that sense of isolation. Only a few huts are visible, built under the shadow of the jungle that flows almost onto the pristine beach.

Formally a Captain Mariner, Than Soe Win, is Belpearl’s Manager, and holds extensive knowledge of the industry, what he doesn’t know, one of his 100 staff certainly will.

The tour begins in the sorting room.

Over one, very large, table for two weeks the pearls are carefully removed, to be sorted first by size, then shape, color, and lustre. “Twice a year we extract 3000 pearls each day for at least two weeks, so annually we produce around 80,000.” said Soe Win. Big white shinny wellington boots wait to be worn outside the seeding room as the concrete floor is covered in water that’s been siphoned away from trays filled with oysters.

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Naturally an oyster shell will open to feed when the tide is low, this is a quiet, safe time. So similar conditions are created artificially.

are never guaranteed, and until the pearl is harvested the true color will never be known.

Once open the oysters are placed in seeding clamps. With tweezers the specialist seeder places a tiny spherical ball, or nucleus, made of shell into the oyster. With skill, a seeder has a 75% success rate of positioning the seed to create a round pearl, the most valued shape of all.

Of all the rooms the most mysterious is the hatchery. A huge transparent tub of clear water explodes into life as a torch light shines through the liquid. Tiny little dots, Oyster Spats (babies), are left to grow for eight days floating arbitrarily while gorging on the plankton sucked up from the water.

Sarkis Hajjar And Than SoeWin Photo Mary Banfield.

Normally, if nature is left untampered the color of the inner lip of an Oyster shell will determine the color of the pearl, a deep golden lip is likely to create a golden pearl. However results

After a week a long strip of rope is submerged into the tub, and by some miracle those tiny dots, barely visible to the naked eye nest between the threads.

Oysters To Be Seeded Photo Mary Banfield.

Seeder At Work Photo Mary Banfield.

The Oyster Car Wash Photo Mary Banfield.

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From 28 days old the Oysters, now 10 millimeters long, will be taken and dangled into the ocean.

The best of the tour is left to last.

A narrow boat dodges between 350 lines to watch as workers raise the Oysters and have the barnacles removed. “They’re put through something like a car wash,” said Sarkis.

Further afield a floating shed pops up and down with the waves.

As visitors stumble onto the shed’s platform ten or so workers, with warm smiles try to explain their trade while squatting around plastic pools preparing the juvenile oysters for their life in the sea.

The Oyster Farm’s Dilemma.

While Shwe Kyun is paradise, the pearl industry is high risk. Last year a mysterious bacterium killed 20% of Belpearl’s animals. It was a tragic and heart-breaking loss.

Along with Kawthaung’s Ministry of Hotels and Tourism, Belpearls is

concerned about a potential imbalance between local industries.

“Logging, Tourism and Fishing are the largest industries in Kawthaung,” said Ar Kar Htun, Assistant Director, Ministry of Hotel and Tourism, Kawthaung. “Overfishing is a major concern to the government. Industry and environmental needs must be balanced, and for this we are developing a strategic plan.”

For Belpearl the danger is tourist boats zigzagging around the farm infusing pollutants and noise into the water. In one case a boat ripped through oyster lines setting the creatures adrift onto the coral.

“There is only one path”, says Michael, “We have to keep the journey to Shwe Kyun unique and exclusive.

It’s just the way it is.”

How To Visit A Pearl Farm Sail for 4 days in a luxury Yacht through the Mergui Archipelago islands, to snorkel, relax and visit Bel Pearls.

Comparison Inside A White Lipped Oyster

https://www.burmaboating.com

Andaman-Pearl-Farm-1411117942 482834

Belpearl: http://www.Belpearlauctions.com Andaman Pearls are exploring the option of opening to tourists. https://www.facebook.com/Myanmar-

Have you been to a pearl farm?

Which One, how did you arrange the tour, what was your experience?

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SCIENTISTS GOING MAD (!)

OVER MYANMAR AMBER TEXT: MARY BANFIELD

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C

an palaeontologists get luckier?

A dinosaur’s head stuck in amber, an extinct 3-D goblinspider; creatures that dominated Myanmar’s marshes 100 million years ago and are still preserved today in clear amber. That’s twice the age of amber from the Baltics, and five times Mexico’s Amber.

“Myanmar amber is driving Scientists mad!”, said Roger Long, Curator, Myanmar Amber Museum. “Nowhere in the world is amber found that’s so unique. No palaeontology believed that a head of a dinosaur, ok a small dinosaur, could be captured in resin.

Yet here in Myanmar that’s exactly what’s happened.”

99 million years ago, Myanmar was nothing more than a series of warm wet islands, an environmental embryo of developing animal life.

The whole world back then was a hothouse where thick luscious vegetation covered the land. In the pristine jungle environment conifers thrived, huge trees with trunks 6 meters wide, around the size of a large bedroom, and stretched into the sky up to 100 meters, around 130 human steps.

The world was very different back then, with 50% more oxygen in the air than we breathe now.

It wasn’t always peaceful as cyclones ravaged the low-lying islands, with 200 kilometer winds exploding through the trees.

It was times like this that huge branches that stretched from the conifer trunk would thud onto the ground.

In the stillness of time resin oozed from the tree to the damaged branch.

Resin is tree blood that seals the exposed wood, providing protection from aggressive insects, ants or even bacteria. As resin dries over millions of years it becomes amber, and sometimes preserving unusual creatures.

“My favourite amber is a leech that I named ‘Donald’,” said Long.

A leech in a tree?

Donald may have sucked the blood of a Microraptor, a winged dinosaur.

The ancient dinosaur could have landed on a conifer branch, pulling Donald off with its beak and sticking him into the sap, never to suck blood again.

Or maybe a branch fell to the earth leaking sap into the mud.

For Donald to survive 99 million years, conditions over time must be just right. Amber is not like diamonds or sapphires, it’s soft and can be crushed or easily disintegrate if exposed to harsh weather.

Amber needs a deep muddy marsh to be preserved. Above the mud no heavy earth must accumulate or the amber is squashed.

Trees die, fall to the ground and in time and give life to new conifers.

Over millions of years some forests

become coal, hiding deep underneath is a treasure chest of golden amber and it’s captured animals.

the Himalayas through Myanmar.

Myanmar millions of years ago was a series of islands in the Tethys ocean.

In 2016, with buckets full of resin, Long committed to sharing his passion for amber, it’s history and beauty. The Myanmar Amber Museum provided sanctuary for children, families, anyone to get lost in an old exciting world.

350 million-years ago, there was only one continent on earth, Pangaea.

About 175 million years ago it started to break apart with continental drift.

40 million-years-ago India drifted striking the islands and oceans, twisting, squeezing up the land. Today that mountain range stretches from

History Of The Amber Museum’s

Over the years he’s sourced his collections from the BOGYOKE Markets with the most remarkable pieces sourced from the Hukawng Valley.

Miners find amber 100 meters deep into the ground, and sometimes on the surface.

“Every piece of amber you touch has the potential for a new discovery,” said Long.

Out of the ground amber looks rough and cloudy. As you rub the surface an aroma is released of 99-million-year-old pine resin.

As the surface thins there is tension, anticipation; an incompatible high to see secrets exposed. “I’m simply addicted to amber.”

Oh, all the scientific thrills this is the best. “Jurassic Park” the movie cloned DNA found in amber.

It seems that this is not science fiction, “From Myanmar amber amino acid, the essential building blocks of proteins found in bones, has been extracted from the wing of a bird,” so exciting!

The Myanmar Amber Museum is currently closed but will be reopening in a new location, even bigger and better. Look for the announcement in the near future.

Sources: ● www.nature.com ● www.sciencealert.com ● www.nytimes.com ● www.csmonitor.com

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Sponsored Article

A DENTIST’S DREAM: MYANMAR, ASIA’S NEXT DENTAL TOURISM HUB? Dr. Sai Aom Kham is a dentist with a dream. He envisions Myanmar as the next dental tourism destination in Asia. Nay Thiha talks with him about the potential of the local dental industry.

Let us know what you do as a dentist first.

I’m the founder and CEO of the Aung Mingalar Dental Clinic Group. In my early days, I practised general dentistry and performed mostly basic dental work. But later, I have focused more on aesthetic dentistry, utilising mainly invisalign treatments and dental veneers. My interest in aesthetic dentistry is motivated by seeing how a healthy and beautiful smile can change a patient’s life positively. Therefore, my patients commonly know me as a smile designer because I basically create new smiles for them.

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How does your clinic stand out?

Our clinics offer all basic dental procedures as well as orthodontic treatment, implants and other aesthetic treatments. My clinic is popular among patients especially for implants and veneers. We also do the invisalign treatment which is realigning the teeth without using braces. If the patients want to see the treatment’s outcome before the procedure begins, we can show it through digital simulation.

We use panoramic X-ray in all our clinics to ensure the right diagnosis for every patient. The consultation fee is around of USD10 to 15 only.

But if you receive any of our treatments, it will be free of charge. We run our clinics with 17 dentists and specialists.

We have a treatment room for children, a comfortable and quiet waiting room and a spacious parking lot at The Grand Aung Mingalar Clinic.

If you are afraid of getting hypersensitive or anxious during the cleansing treatment, our clinics have EMS airflow which is painless and reliable for patients with dental fears.

Moreover, our clinics have 3D intraoral scanners that can give a more precise model for your teeth.

In sterilization, we use Class B autoclave which can kill all the bacteria and spores. Our staff carefully clean the instruments and immerse them in the antiseptic chemicals before putting them into autoclaves. Safety is our first priority.

Cosmetic dentistry has grown popular. What should oneknow before receiving an aesthetic treatment?

I’ve seen some people receive whitening treatments frequently in a year. It will only result in hypersensitivity and gingivitis. Another thing is fake veneers using acrylic.

If it is not done by professional dentists, it can cause food traps and gingivitis and finally tooth decay.

Ortho treatment, it’s quite popular these days. You will need much effort in dental hygiene to do it. The food tends to get trapped between the teeth and the braces, so you’ll be more prone to gingivitis and tooth decay.

Moreover, women shouldn’t receive ortho treatment during pregnancy.

Hormone changes can stimulate gingivitis.

What else do you want to say about dentistry? Any advice for students and young professionals?

Braces are for under-40s. Middleaged people have poorer gums and dental bones. We have to use force to move the teeth. If the bone is weak, the tooth will fall out. The ideal age for ortho treatment is between 8 and 12 years. The jaw bone is easy to modify in the growing period.

I would not be where I am today without a constant study. Dentistry is improved by doctors sharing dental health knowledge with the public. It’s our duty as professionals to provide the patients with better and more cost-efficient solutions using safe methods and advanced technology.

The important note here is not to use one-size-fits-all braces you find online. Orthodontic treatments need precise measurements of teeth since people have different jaw sizes.

What are the bad things people do to their teeth without realising?

Many people brush their teeth with whitening toothpaste which has more abrasive ingredients than normal

toothpaste. Brushing the teeth with whitening toothpaste using excessive force can erode the enamel on the teeth. This practice can lead to hypersensitivity. Use the toothpaste and brushing methods your dentist recommends.

Let’s talk about dental tourism.

You are really excited about it, right?

Myanmar’s potential to become Asia’s next dental tourism hub is really exciting. Currently, Thailand and Vietnam have similar markets.

So, I thought why not Myanmar.

In most countries, dental procedures are very expensive. Say, an implant costs generally around US$3,000 in Singapore. We can do it here at just $1,000 and the quality is the same. So, do the math. Instead of spending $3,000 alone on an implant, spend it on visiting Myanmar while also receiving the treatment.

We have been cooperating with Ibis Hotel in Yangon and hotels in Bagan. We’re also looking for partnering with tour agencies. This can also earn tourist revenue for our country and develop the tourism industry.

Visit https://www.thegranddental. com for more information.

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THE “MAD MEN” OF COLONIAL BURMA TEXT: CHRISTIAN GILBERTI

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first noticed them in a number of restaurants around Yangon: rusted old tin signs in still-vibrant colors advertising a wealth of different products from whiskey to baby formula.

They were evocative of a time and place that I knew very little about.

Some were familiar – advertisements for European imported items the likes of which I had seen in supermarkets around the city: Staedtler pencils, Nestle coffee, Horlick’s malted milk.

But others were for brands that had long since ceased to exist (Ebensen’s Danish butter, Bile Beans, and Sanatogen “brain tonic” anyone?).

Many of the signs appeared in two or three languages (in the case of the one for Tiger Balm, in four: Burmese, Mandarin, English, and Malay), and as such they spoke to a multilingual audience.

I was intrigued, and as I came to study them, what were initially pieces of quaint décor took on a new significance for me as some of the only remaining evidence of Burma’s distinctive cosmopolitan past.

Malacca and even further afield to Europe and China.

in Burma” a slogan that is now distinctly hard to come by.

The brothers amassed a great fortune and became philanthropists, building (among other charitable ventures) a memorial hall (still standing) at the Yangon Centre for the Blind, complete with the brand’s logo, a leaping tiger, over the entrance.

The largest market, however, was still for imported goods and it was in this area that advertising began to play a major role in dictating the Burmese encounter with modernity and the West.

As I researched these signs, a quick internet search turned up a number of other local manufacturers; they were the remnants of a Burmese industrial era gone-by.

There was the Dawood Match Co., Imperial Waters, Burma Enameled Iron Wares Ltd., Bo Ohn Thee Toy Company and the Burma Biscuit Factory to name a few.

In Yangon alone the Phoenix Coach Works made “dog carts, buggies, gharries and victorias”, Misquith and Co. made pianos, and the Diamond Co. made ice and aerated water.

Many of these companies proudly proclaimed that they were “Made

In order to create a demand for foreign goods, importers began marketing to the Burmese consumer (foreign companies rarely had in-country advertising staff, and so they left the marketing of their products up to the local distributors, often Burmese).

In her book Refiguring Women, Colonialism and Modernity in Burma, Chie Ikeya suggests that these firms used a new rhetoric of “modernity” and “science” to sell their products.

At the same time, the “foreign” was becoming increasingly popular in Burmese advertisements.

Foreign English and Scottish products held a certain cache and Burmese

consumers were told that they had to buy certain products in order to keep up with the rest of the world.

Clearly not all Burmese buyers were convinced, however, and advertisers were pushed to market foreign goods in more and more far-fetched ways.

Take for example the almost comedic ad for “Peek Frean’s Famous English Rich Fruit Cake” that suggests it is perfect “for offerings to phongyis (monks) and receptions during water festival and new year.”

Such a strange adaptation of an English dessert for a Burmese holiday was not unusual, but whether or not Burmese consumers would go in for it was an entirely different question (as many modern Western brands new to Asia have discovered, what works in one place may not work in another).

At the end of the day, the Burmese consumer would decide what he or she wanted to buy, thereby dictating tastes and, ultimately, the path of Burma’s entrance into modernity.

At the turn of the nineteenth-century, so the story goes, the British colony of Burma was exporting natural resources like rubber, teak and petroleum to the West and importing European manufactured goods.

But what few people know is that, gradually, as the century progressed, domestic Burmese manufacturing took on a more important role.

Though always smaller than the import trade, Burmese domestic products were marketed regionally.

For instance, Tiger Balm was first created in Burma in 1870, when an apothecary passed on his secret on to a pair of Chinese brothers named Haw and Par, who began to market the analgesic all along the Straits of

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The Burma Biscuit Factory.

Tin sign in 3 languages English, Burmese and Mandarin.

Tiger Balm tin sign advertisement. Note the leaping tiger and the presentation in 4 languages. Source - Sharky’s Restaurant.

Aw Boon Haw and Aw Boon Par Memorial Hall and the Yangon Educational Center for the Blind in Insein Township as it looks today. Note the leaping tiger.

Advertisement for Rodania Swiss Watches

“Sailor” brand safety matches manufactured by Adamjee Hajee Dawood and Co. in Burma.

Polo was once slang for a cigarette in Burma

Peek Frean’s Famous English Rich Fruit Cake. For Offerings for Phongyis.

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Eat & Drink

DD CHICKEN DELIVERY: JUICY ROTISSERIE CHICKEN AND SANDWICHES

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ven during the darkest time there are stars – and here we have DD Chicken!

Launched a few weeks ago, DD Chicken delivers delicious chickens cooked in a blazing hot charcoal stacked rotisserie cooker. Started by the co-founders Chef Davy and Damian Lau, each succulent chicken is prepared in a professional, hygienic kitchen by the trained restaurant staff of Shwe Sa Bwe led by Chef Davy himself.

The menu is easy to understand –

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Original or Chili; whole, half or one piece. Additional items worth considering are the sandwiches – BBQ and Garlic Aioli.

We tested an Original Whole Chicken but instead of BBQ sauce changed to Peri Peri for extra spiciness, and a Garlic Aioli Chicken Sandwich.

The Sandwich was a welcome addition to Yangon’s very limited sandwich scene. The baguette was good, not too hard on the outside and had nicely absorbed the juices from the sauce and chicken meat.

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The chicken meat lived up to the expectations and overall a fulfilling experience of flavors.

The Chicken made the mouth water as soon as the lid was removed revealing its beautiful colors and fragrance. Served with our extra choice of Peri Peri sauce we got both the original flavour of the chicken and an extra kick with the sauce. The chicken was juice and tasty.

The extras come for extra. Only chips are included. 2,000 kyats for

the potatoes and 1,500 for the sticky rice. In our group the rice didn’t get much support and the potatoes were ok but everyone was quite happy to just indulge themselves in the delicious chicken in front of them.

How to try it out? Right now they deliver twice a day in the city, and once a week to Star City and Pun Hlaing. Order directly on their Facebook Page https://www. facebook.com/ddchickendelivery/

Eat & Drink

CHEF’S FAVOURITE:

CHARCOAL GRILLED EGGPLANT & LEMON PRAWN Myanmore “Chef’s Favourite” will introduce a series of dishes made by chefs in Myanmar to inspire your cooking as they will write every recipe themselves to teach you how to make their favourite dishes so that you can follow the instructions exactly and try it out at your own kitchen.

This week, we have Chef Htun Htun, Chef & Director of Le Cellier Restaurant at Novotel Yangon Max. Today, he will give his favourite recipe of Charcoal Grilled Eggplant & Lemon Prawn to our readers.

About Chef Htun Htun

Dish story

aised in Pakokku City, a small village located by the banks of the main river of Central Myanmar, Htun Htun made a courageous move to Yangon; keeping an open mind that he would land a dream job at the age of 17 — knowing that if he gave up, he would be stuck and regret it.

It is a traditional Burmese food from my home town Pakokku in Central Myanmar. You can get the best eggplant especially in winter (month of Nattaw & Pyatho) around December & January.

R

People always say, “Sometimes on the way to a dream you get lost and find a better one way”. Well he bounces around different part-time jobs to survive in the city of Yangon. After two years of making wrong turns changed his path and gave him a new perspective in life.

At 20, he made the biggest decision of his life, an overseas opportunity working in various 5-stars hotels (such as Atlantis The Palm Dubai) and restaurants. It took him 7 years of different working atmospheres in the F&B industry. An adventure that made him realize it was going to be a good story to tell.

Young & talented, as a creative and dynamic element of the notorious Novotel Yangon Max, his passion to continuously learn new trends has turned him into one of the most respected chiefs in the industry today.

With more than 12-years experience, combining his local knowledge with extensive experience and very exciting to share his passion for producing top dishes, created using fresh, local and seasonal ingredients.

“My dishes are my stories”, Chef Htun Htun repeats.

And I like the prawns from the Ayeyarwaddy River where I was born & raised in a small village near there in Pakokku Township.

I recreated it with a different way of presenting, without losing the authenticity and flavor as well as referred to my Mom’s recipes. I enjoyed it a lot every time I tried when my mom made it since I was a child. I would say I’ll love it forever.

Instructions & ingredients Recipe for; 2 portions Preparation time; 20 minutes Pros; Healthy food, without prawn itself vegetarian dish, gluten free.

The freshest ingredients through simple but beautiful dishes that reflect both culinary tradition and creativity. The result is an imaginative, innovative cuisine that celebrates and respects seasonality.

For Charcoal Grilled Eggplant ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

2 pcs Eggplant 1 tomato 1 Onion chopped 2 clove Fried Garlic 2-tablespoons Garlic oil 20 gm Roasted peanut crusts 1-tablespoon lemon juice Chopped coriander

● Salt & pepper 1. Grilled the whole eggplant on a charcoal grill, make sure not to break the eggplant while grilling to keep the original flavor. Rest for a few minutes to cool a bit.

2. Cut into half to take inner parts and keep them in a salad mixing bowl.

3. Add the rest ingredients and just keep them aside to give time to cook prawn. Once prawn is cooked mixed gently and season with salt & pepper.

For River Prawn ● ● ● ● ● ●

2 pcs River prawn skinless 1-teaspoon fresh lemon juice 2 cloves Garlic chopped 1-tablespoons Olive oil 10 gm butter Salt & pepper

1. Marinated the prawn with lemon juice, salt & pepper. Grilled on pan (in this case I prefer to use charcoal grill or wood fire).

2. Finish them with butter by caramelizing in a pan.

Plate assembly Place eggplant mixed eggplant salad on the one side of the plate, add a little bit of garlic oil and crusted peanut on it. Keep the prawn on the other side of the plate, same thing add the butter grazes on top of it to shine up the prawn.

Additional items Any crackers to get some crispy (in this I used corn cracker) and mint leaves.

Enjoy!

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Art

SAN MINN: MODERN ARTIST’S SURREAL VISION The woman in the painting looked over her shoulder, head tilted, raven hair cascading down her naked back. She had an elegant, graceful form. Her exposed ear wore two golden studs.

Her eyes were hidden behind two black uncaring voids.

TEXT: ADAM PERRELL

I

“ n “Friday the 13th,” he kills so many people, both men, and women,” explained San Minn, “like she is killing our Myanmar culture.”

The murderous woman stared down with menace. Her hidden eyes followed us around the Trish Gallery as San Minn introduced more of his thoughtprovoking and emotion-evoking artwork.

The juxtaposition of images and ideas

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in the room were testaments to a master creative. “2001 of Space Age” (1974) lands a lunar module formed from intertwined bodies on a barren moon to represent San Minn’s vision of mankind seeking a new frontier after Earth becomes overpopulated.

“Mystical Longing” (1990) captures disparity in surrealism with the wealthy cruising through life on a luxury liner, the everyman swimming unassisted, and the pauper sinking as the lighthouse of society shows the way to a land he will never reach.

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San Minn’s face lit up as he shared the stories behind each piece, detailing his ideas, exploring his thoughts, and exposing his heart. His inspiration is varied and when asked where he gets his ideas he replied, simply, “I read so many books. I combine my ideas and my book knowledge; I have studied so many brilliant books.”

San Minn, 68, has a life of creativity in his veins and he has bled it out through paint on canvas. His ideas may not have always been popular

or politically correct—30 of his pieces were censored during his career— but he has stood by his ideology and creative instincts with determination.

The artist portrays the world through their interpretation, not through the prescription of authority.

A student in Rangoon Arts and Sciences University in the 1970’s, San Minn was part of an artistic movement that founded the “Wild Eye” Art Exhibit, an exhibit that continues to today. His youthful

passion and liberal ideology served his art but put him at odds with the government during the U Thant crisis of 1974. San Minn served 3 years and 1 month in Insein Prison, an experience that has shaped his artistic energy since and informed many of his installations.

San Minn was released from prison in 1978 and has been a creative force in the Myanmar modern art scene ever since, organizing Gangaw Village, co-organizing the Inya Art Gallery, and supporting art movements that speak to his soul. He has traveled the world, exhibited his artwork from Japan to Finland, and held 15 One Man Shows. In every painting and installation, he has blended his ideas, clashed concepts, and sought to share his insights into the crazy world around us.

We flipped through a few books in his portfolio and I stopped at an oil painting titled “Karaoke Civilization I” (1994). “She can’t see; the money covers her eyes. Her hat is a bottle top. It is materialism. I see this a lot,” San Minn said.

“Was it banned,” I asked.

“Of course, the government didn’t like me using the Myanmar kyat.” He pointed to another painting hanging in the gallery, “Face III” (1998). “On that painting, I used the dollar, so it wasn’t banned.” He gave a weak smile and nodded at his self-censorship; it was a compromise, but he got his message out.

San Minn lead me around Trish Gallery one more time before we left. A smoking man was fading away in one painting and beside it there was a baby in a grenade. An anthropomorphic bird was hunting humans and farther down the gallery wall “The Silent Killer” (1996) depicted the silhouettes and faces of the many victims of the AIDS epidemic.

The surreal visions of life as we know it clashed around me, beautiful paintings of conflicted thoughts. “You only get your ideas from books,” I asked. He smiled. “A lot of books. A lot of ideas.”

San Minn’s paintings can be found in private collections, the National Museum, and modern art shows around the city. Find them and be inspired.

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TV

STREAMING HIGHLIGHTS FOR JUNE 2020 Here’s What’s On As Lockdown Starts To Lift

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Netflix Spike Lee fans are undoubtedly ready for Netflix to get its next month of content underway. The director's new Netflix original film Da 5 Bloods is set to drop closer to the middle of the month, with a tale of four Vietnam vets returning to the country they once fought through for a very special mission.

However, if you're looking for a new Netflix original that plays to more of a silly and comedic angle, then the long-awaited debut of Eurovision Song Contest: The Story of Fire Saga will most definitely tide you over. Yes, this is that Will Ferrell movie you heard was in the works a while ago, and no, this isn't a dream. There's even a music video to prove it.

Sometimes, you need a classic or two in order to really feel at home, and Netflix has you covered there as well. Whether you want the Spielberg-led warmth of E.T. The Extra-Terrestrial, or the '90s style adaptation of Jane Austen literature with the Alicia Silverstone comedy Clueless, you can be sure that those magic moments you still remember have not lost their sparkle.

TV has its fair share of teary-eyed moments headed its way in June 2020, as Netflix is ready to mount an all-out assault on your feelings.

Wrapping the decades-long legacy of the Full House franchise, an early look at Fuller House: The Farewell Season even has its leads crying and laughing in quick succession. If you're someone who cries during weddings, prepare for a triple threat, courtesy of the Tanner family.

If you prefer your tears to be more reality-based, Queer Eye: Season 5 will oblige your Kleenex inducing needs, as the new Fab 5 will be on the road to bettering people's lives yet again. This season's antics take the boys to the city of brotherly love, as Philadelphia acts as the home base for this next group of episodes. Here come the cheesesteak jokes.

Last but not least, the network TV options on Netflix are about to get a lot more interesting in this

heated month of content! After six whole seasons of intrigue and twists, How To Get Away With Murder Season 6 brings the hit ABC series to a shockingly dramatic close. If you're one of those fans who's been hoping that Bryan Fuller's Hannibal would continue on Netflix, your wishes are kind of coming true. The complete series run will be on the Netflix platform for you to enjoy, and possibly fuel further speculation that the series could return.

Disney+ Disney+ has announced a number of titles that will be added in June.

Among them are beloved animated Disney films, including 1999's Tarzan and its 2005 sequel, Tarzan II. Fan-favorite live-action films are also being added to the roster, such as the 2010 film adaptation of Percy Jackson and the Olympians: The Lightning Thief.

Another book adaptation that is set to premiere on Disney+ in June is Artemis Fowl. This Kenneth Branagh-directed adaptation of Eoin Colfer’s popular novel about a 12-year-old genius trying to save his kidnapped father from within a fantastical world was originally intended to get a theatrical release.

However, that, as with so many other things, was scuppered by the arrival of COVID-19. So now the film is going straight onto Disney+ on June 12th.

Elsewhere, Frozen fans are in for a treat with the premiere of Into the Unknown: Making Frozen 2. The six-part documentary series follows the filmmakers, artists, songwriters and cast as they create the long-awaited sequel to the original 2013 Disney animated feature.

Other noteworthy additions include season three of the Disney Channel sitcom Raven's Home, seasons one and two of Howie Mandel's Animals Doing Things and the 2014 animated film Tinker Bell and the Pirate Fairy. On the animated series side, season one of the retro classic Schoolhouse Rock will make its debut on the streamer as will season one of 1997's 101 Dalmatians.

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Music

RANGOON RHYTHM:

EILLIE

EilliE started her music career in late 2018 when she was 18. The girl has already become a favourite rapper for the local rap music industry.

With her powerful rapping skills and distinctive fashion style, she talked about her passion for music and balance between life and career.

E

illiE, with the given name of Eaint Thet Hmu, joined BG18 Record Label in 2018. It all started at the 2018 Invasion Music Festival. “I was hanging out with my friends and also a bit drunk at that time.” she laughed.

“As we were chatting, my friends asked me to rap a verse so I told them I’d only do it if they do not upload the video on social media.

Then, I rapped the verses from Gucci Gang and Migos’ Bad and Boujee.” However, her friends who have always loved her rapping skills posted the video on Facebook and the CEO of BG18 saw it and offered her to work together with them. And eventually, she became a female rap star with her hit singles.

Just after she joined BG18, EilliE released Just Friend, a collaboration song with Yung Hugo, one of her fellow artists from BG18. The song

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became a hit among young people which made them recognize her as EilliE. Her popularity started to grow as soon as the song had been released and she was invited to perform at many local concerts.

EilliE then released her first solo song, Introduction, which also captured the attention of the audience. And there are two other collaborations with her fellow artists from BG18Myoz Taw Thu and Trust which are due to be released soon.

This energetic rapper has been passionate about singing and listening to music since she was young. “My brother used to play a lot of songs at home when we were young and I’ve been familiar with every music genre since then.

My favourite singers are Chris Brown, Drake and Tyga.”

EilliE listened to pop singer Phyu

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Phyu Kyaw Thein’s songs in her college life. “I sometimes want to try singing songs like hers if I have to choose another genre, other than hip hop.”

EilliE admitted that she doesn't really know how to write songs. She has been singing the songs that others have written for her till now. “But I really want to write and sing my own songs so yeah, I’m going to try it in the future.”

As soon as people started recognizing her, EilliE faced a lot of cyberbullying on Facebook.

“People would judge my body and write negative comments on Facebook.

Some people say that I’m trying too hard to be like Cardi B. But I don’t really care about those criticisms. I try to neglect them and focus on what I want to do. I know that everyone won’t love me so I’ll keep

doing what I love and what I’m passionate about.”

“Music makes me happy. I just feel so excited whenever I get to sing songs.” However, the girl does not only rap. She also spares some time for her job as an accountant at her agency, BG18.

For now, she is working on a new solo song which is still in progress.

EilliE’s love and passion for music has made her become who she is today. It hasn't been so long that she has entered the industry yet she has strived a lot to chase her dream to be a good rapper and there is no doubt that she will be continuously trying to approve what she is capable of.

Follow EilliE on Facebook @eilliebg18.

Shopping

THE YANGON ONLINE SHOPPING GUIDE If you don’t want to head out on the streets yet for your different needs.

There are now many online marketplaces and shops where you can buy clothes, cosmetics and other needs with delivery service to your home.

Marketplaces

Shop.com.mm Shop.com will fulfill your dream of ultimate online shopping just from home. Whether you are in need of groceries for your kitchen or new clothes or TV and home appliances, anything is available there under different categories. Being the biggest online shopping platform in Myanmar, Shop.com provides delivery services to customers across the country.

Website: www.shop.com.mm App: iOS, Android

offering delivery service of its products to your households within a day.

Tel: 09 686467986

Spree.com.mm Spree.com.mm was formerly shopmyar.com. A wide range of categories including fashion accessories, household items, groceries, beauty and a lot more can be found in spree online shopping.

Website: https://spree.com.mm App: iOS, Android Clothing for Men

MK Fashion Shop Lingerie is another important thing among women’s clothing items. If you are in need of new undergarments, MK offers various brands of lingerie sets and bikinis including Wacoal, Wienna, Triumph and more, with prices starting from around 35,000 Ks. You can order from MK’s Facebook page. MK also stock up shirts, shoes, wallets and other accessories for men.

Facebook: mk.myanmar For babies

Strawberry Sky Baby Store

Barlolo.com

All Stars Fashion Shop

Barlolo.com offers a variety of products from food to mobiles and gadgets. You can just register on the website and start shopping online from your home with cash on delivery service. The website also provides a list of stores that they have partnered with and also updates new arrivals and promotions on the website for the customers to be more convenient.

Website: www.barlolo.com

With various clothing items on display such as shirts, trousers, shoes and other accessories from a variety of brands such as Zara, Lacoste, Armani Exchange, Hugo Boss, etc, All Stars has run its business since 2010. Whether you are looking for casual wear or formal style outfits, you can choose anything for the shop’s in stock items at reasonable prices. It offers delivery service to your home so choose your favourite items on the Facebook page and have them delivered to your doorstep.

Facebook: AllStarsFashionShopMyanmar

For anyone who is in need of baby clothings and other accessories, you can now order from Strawberry Sky Baby Store. From baby essentials such as formula, cot, baby wipes, etc. to clothing items and baby medicines can be found at the store.

There are a lot of various product brands from Japan and USA, which are of high quality and essential for your babies’ daily needs, with reasonable prices. Leave a message to Facebook page or call the number to order what you need and the items will be delivered to you within 2 days.

Facebook: strawberryskymyanmar Tel: 09 454 373 315

Clothing for Women

Shoes for Women

Metro Metro is a one-stop online platform that offers convenient shopping experiences for customers with its delivery service. Fruits, vegetables, meat and more are available for your kitchen and now you can order items from Metro’s website one day in advance and it will be delivered right to your doorstep safely and conveniently.

Website: http://bit.ly/3awkFVj

Promart Promart Supermarket offers a wide range of kitchen and household items, especially products from Korea. Meat, rice, vegetables, noodles and a lot more high quality products can be found at the place. Promart is now

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RENE Mattias

This Hong Kong brand is specialized in women’s clothing, offering both casual and formal wear. Whether you are looking for basic tees for your daily wear or suits and blazer jackets for your office, you can find anything you need at RENE Mattias.

With colorful and contemporary designs, the products of RENE Mattias are at reasonable prices ranging from 12,000 Ks to 40,000 Ks. Drop a message to their Facebook page and order your favourite before it becomes out of stock.

Facebook: renefashioncollection

Magazine | NR 42, 2020

Myanma Glory Myanma Glory is a shoe store for ladies, offering sandals, flat shoes and heels which are all designed and made by the owner herself.

With simple yet contemporary designs, the owner makes sure that the customers feel comfortable wearing her products with the prices ranging from 18,000 Ks to 35,000 Ks. Myanma Glory offers delivery service for the shoes within 3 days, along with hand wash and sanitizers for the customers.

Facebook: Myanma Glory

Cosmetics

Fashion and Beauty Corner This store sells various selections of makeup and skin care products, which are imported from both the UK and USA. Anything you want from head to toe can be found at the store with various brands such as Lancome, Benefit, The Origins, etc. The store updates its instock items and new arrivals on its Facebook page and if you wish, you can also order your favourite products and they will be delivered to your home.

Facebook: beauticorner Mobile Phone & Gadgets

Win Mobile World

This electronics store offers a wide range of electronic devices from headphones and speakers to laptops such as Apple, Samsung, Huawei, Beats and many more. The store is now offering delivery services for those who are in need of new mobile phones or gadgets without delivery charges for the whole month of April. You can now order your favourite mobile phone and other accessories and gadgets from the app to spend time at home during quarantine.

Facebook: winmobileworld App: iOS, Android Pet Stores

MyPet

MyPet pet store offers food and accessories for your dogs and cats at home. Dog/cat food, toys, medicines, clothes and a lot more accessories are there for you to choose for your little pets. There are a lot of different brands such as Me-O, Royal Canin, Pet Me and a lot more. Stay safe at home by ordering food and other stuff and spoil your puppies and kittens.

Facebook: mypetmyanmar

Tech Talk MacroDroid

Huawei Nova 7i MacroDroid is the easiest way to automate your daily tasks on your Android smartphone or tablet. Via the smart user interface, MacroDroid offers a simple solution to make automated tasks on your device in just a few taps. Macrodroid helps you by automating the activities you did manually before and customize them in a way that works for you. Make your phone truly smart with the easiest to use automation app on Android.

Huawei Nova 7i shoots wider, clearer and closer with 4 rear cameras. Thanks to Huawei AI Image Stabilization technology, Handheld Super Night Mode cuts through the noise and gives you greater dynamic range for sharper photos. With its 4200 mAh large battery, you’ll get through the day on a single charge. It comes with 3 colors- Sakura Pink, Midnight Black and Crush Green.

Find My Device

Samsung Note 10 Lite

It is an application and service used to track and locate Android devices including smartphones, tablets and watches using the app. It is very easy to use and helps you to locate your phone and even reset the pin or passcode. Find My Device allows users to remotely locate any Android device using their Google Account.

Google Assistant Go

Address: No. 48, Shan Kone Street, Myay Ni Kone, Sanchaung Tsp, Yangon Contact: 09 785 222 888

The Galaxy Note 10 Lite is designed with a smooth metal frame that curves elegantly for ergonomic comfort.

An On-screen fingerprint scanner is built onto the screen, for vaultlike security. The S Pen is your smartphone magic wand. Whether it’s an inspiring sketch or a timely written note, the S Pen lets you be more creative and productive than ever before. With its powerful multi-camera system, Galaxy Note 10 Lite comes in 3 colors- Aura Glow, Aura Black and Aura Red and available at Wai Yan Electronics.

Address: No. 173-175, Pansodan Middle Block, Kyauktada Tsp, Yangon Contact: 01 250596

Amazfit Stratos 3

Your Google Assistant is ready to help when and where you need it. You can manage your schedule, get help with everyday tasks, control smart devices, enjoy your entertainment and much more. Play music and videos with your voice, get quick directions and local info, get convenient help throughout the day and a lot more to make your everyday life a lot easier.

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Magazine | NR 42, 2020

Built for professional sports, the Amazfit Stratos 3 adopts a 1.34 inch full round transflective MIP display perfectly suitable for outdoor use. The four physical buttons enable you to browse through the features and control the device without using the touchscreen.

The stainless steel body combined with reinforced plastic makes the watch robust while minimizing its weight and the black silicon strap facilitates the ventilation and perspiration.

Address: No. 48, Shan Kone Street, Myay Ni Kone, Sanchaung Tsp, Yangon Contact: 09 785 222 888